The Leader • Saturday, September 21, 2019 • Page 1B
Taco takes: Dish’s versatility contributes to its popularity
Zuvie’s Brews: Look to brewer from down under for solid Mexican lager
Zarah Parker
Adam
Managing Editor
From a traditional Mexican dish of al pastor topped with cilantro and onions to the Texas tradition of wrapping pretty much anything in a tortilla, Houstonians can appreciate all forms of the taco. That’s especially true during Hispanic Heritage Month, which is from Sept. 15Oct. 15. “To me the taco will always be simple yet beautiful. It comes down to a mix of protein and veggies, a good tortilla and a spicy salsa,” said Marco Torres, who grew up in Northside and has written taco-related features for Houstonia Magazine. “You can add cheese or avocado or fancy micro-greens, but the holy taco trinity is what I admire most.” The traditional Mexican dish has seen an evolution in America with the addition of toppings such as sour cream, lettuce, tomatoes and yellow cheese. But Torres doesn’t necessarily see those additions as an evolution of the dish. “I actually don’t believe that the taco has evolved beyond the already amazing flavors that have existed for centuries,” Torres said. “The taco has been here way before us and will be here long after we’re gone. It might be more popular nowadays because of social media and because of the foodie culture, but the taco has already been this awesome and this delicious.” Lance Fegen, the culinary director for Liberty Kitchen, said that with so much diversity throughout the United States, it’s only natural that everyone will take a relatively simple dish and get creative with it. “That being said, I am a traditionalist when it comes to ordering tacos for myself,” Fegen said. “For instance, when I drive through Mexico on my surf trips, I order what I first see at a taco stand. Maybe it’s a taco de bistec or al pastor, or perhaps something with goat, escamoles or nopales.” He orders the tacos as they come without any adjustments. He said an environment brings as much flavor to tacos as a
Zuvanich Editor
cook, if not more. “I think it’s important to remember and represent tacos’ roots when developing a taco recipe and avoid going crazy for the sake of being crazy, keeping in mind that just because something seems enticing on paper, it may not work in practice,” Fegen said. Fegan also said he doesn’t think there’s a limitation on taco toppings. To him, the “spirit” of the taco is that it’s limitless. Fegen is familiar with sticking to taco roots and still getting creative with a recipe. For Liberty Kitchen, 1050 Studewood St., he worked months developing a version of what he called many people’s favorite fast-food taco. “Ours are made with good ingredients,” Fegen said. “Meats by Linz ground beef, taco seasoning, white American cheese triangles, shredded lettuce, tomato and, of course, that red sauce, reminiscent of what comes in a packet.” These tacos, which are called J’ ‘N B’ tacos, were created for the fun of it. “I stopped taking my self seriously as a chef a few years ago,” Fegen said. “If
we aren’t having fun, if we aren’t cooking food that recalls memories and emotions from our years past, then I’m not sure what we’re doing here.” While Houston has plenty options for a more “Americanized” taco, Torres said the city is blessed with taco traditions and flavors from many regions. “We have trompo, bistec and carne asada from Northern Mexico, suadero and pastor from Mexico City, delicious barbacoa and breakfast tacos from the Rio Grande Valley, and Tex-Mex BBQ from Austin and San Antonio,” Torres said. Torres said people ask him all the time if he ever gets tired of eating tacos. His answer is that he doesn’t, because there’s so much variety. “The quintessential Houston taco experience is the late-night taco,” Torres said. “A long day of work or after a concert or the club, we stopped by our favorite taco truck for a round of greasy tacos, frijoles and a Coke. It might not be the healthiest, but damn it I’m going to die happy.”
REVIEW:
La Fondita Michoacan makes buena comida By Adam Zuvanich azuvanich@theleadernews.com
If you walk into a Mexican restaurant and are greeted in the Spanish language, don’t be alarmed. That often is a good thing, even if you don’t speak in the same tongue. Just make sure you don’t order beef tongue, unless that’s what you want. I steered clear of la lengua during a recent visit to La Fondita Michoacan, an affordable, assuming staple in the Heights that might as well be in a border town. The décor is decidedly rooted in Mexican culture, the menu is printed in English and Spanish and the staff is bilingual as well. There was no need for translation when it came to the authentic, fresh food I was served, which would have been excellent in any language. The corn tortillas and even the tortilla chips were homemade, which is rare for a Mexican restaurant. While La Fondita Michoacan offers a wide range of Latin American cuisine – including enchiladas, huaraches, tortas, tostadas, seafood and soups – it specializes in Mexican food. And there’s no simpler, more satisfying selection than tacos. There are 12 taco fillings available at La Fondita Michoacan, including the aforementioned beef tongue. I ordered my own sampler plat-
Photo by Adam Zuvanich Tacos are made traditionally at La Fondita Michoacan.
ter, ordering four tacos filled with carne asada (beef fajita), tinga (shredded chicken with chipotle sauce), al pastor (marinated pork) and nopales (sliced cactus). I got them all on corn tortillas, because, well, why wouldn’t I? And each included the traditional garnish of chopped white onions and cilantro. I had to ask for a lime wedge, which is my one and only complaint about the place. Each of the tacos was hot, fresh and, best of all, tasty. The carne asada was juicy and tender, the tinga had a spicy, smoky flavor that made a salsa accompaniment unnecessary, and the al pastor boasted a delectable blend of sweetness and spice. The nopales, one of two vegetarian taco options along with rajas (sliced poblano peppers), were just as good
as the meat. The cactus slices were perfectly cooked – not too crunchy and not too mushy – and had a tangy flavor with a hint of sweetness. The tacos were complemented by La Fondita Michoacan’s three homemade salsas. The table salsa served with the chips was mild, fresh and slightly chunky, like it had been poured into a bowl straight from the blender. The two other sauces, one green and one bright red, were served in plastic squeeze bottles. The green salsa was spicy but not overpowering. The same could not be said of the red, which was blistering hot. The stuff awakens the senses and clears the sinuses, so caution is advised and kids should probably stay away. With that said, any place that serves a salsa that spicy deserves credit for being unabashedly bold. Some Mexi-
can restaurants take it too easy with their spice levels, which can be a turn-off for those who seek heat. La Fondita Michoacan owes no apologies for its food or its atmosphere, which is rooted in Mexican pride and features the colors of the Mexican flag – red, white and green – throughout its dining room. There also is a TV that was tuned to Telemundo, an old-style jukebox with Latin records and Christian artwork on the wall. On the back wall of the restaurant is a black-andwhite painting that features Emiliano Zapata along with a quote from the leader of the Mexican Revolution: “Es major morir de pie que vivir de rodillas,” which translates to, “It is better to die on your feet than to live on your knees.” So don’t beg for more tacos, even if you are tempted. Instead, take a walk to burn off the calories from the tacos you already ate. La Fondita Michoacan Address: 1010 N. Shepherd Hours: 8 a.m.–8 p.m. Monday-Tuesday and Thursday-Saturday, 8 a.m.-4 p.m. Wednesday, 9 a.m.-5 p.m. Sunday Pricing: $6.50-$13.95 Kid-friendly: Yes Alcohol: Yes Healthy options: No Star of the show: Taco al pastor
joyable in its own right. Along with sounding like a common profane phrase, it blends Mexican culture with beermaking vernacular. The Spanish term “Olé” is an interjection used to express triumph or joy. Hanrahan said chitting is an early step in the process that transforms grain into malt. The beer’s name was the brainchild of Platypus’ head brewer, Kerry Embertson, who according to Hanrahan came up with the name before the recipe. The brewery recently had Olé Chit registered as a trademark, and it’s accompanied on cans by the
Corona, Dos Equis, Modelo and Tecate. Those Mexican brands and others are familiar to beer drinkers all over Houston, which is not too terribly far from the southern border of the United States. They are easy to find, easy to drink and generally easy on one’s personal finances. Still, it’s hard to believe that until last year, Houston never had a Mexican-style brew to call its own. Platypus Brewing, the area craft brewpub located at 1902 Washington Ave. Suite E, became the first Contributed photo when it concocted a Mexican-style Olé Chit, made by Platypus Brewing, was pioneer for Mexican-style craft beer in lager called Olé aHouston when it debuted last year. Chit. The cleverly named brew has since be- image of a man with a thick come one of the top sellers mustache who is wearing a for Platypus, according to co- sombrero pulled down over owner Sean Hanrahan. his eyes. Considering the brewery’s “It’s so great,” Hanrahan origin, it was an unlikely said. “It encapsulates our percandidate to be a pioneer of sonality and sense of humor.” Mexican beer in Houston. While Platypus Brewing The market now also in- has Australian roots, it’s also cludes Hecho En Conroe, a planted firmly in Texas, where Mexican-style lager made by there is a significant Mexican Southern Star Brewing. influence. Hanrahan’s wife, Hanrahan and Platypus Rachna, is from Sugar Land, co-founder Morgan Hughes and he and Hughes also met are Australian. Many of their in Houston. beers are influenced by their Wrapped around the top of home country and pay hom- Platypus’ cans is the phrase, age to it. “Brewed with Texan heart “It took an Aussie to do a and Australian soul.” That apMexican lager in Houston,” plies to the Mexican lager as Hanrahan said. “Can you be- much as any of the brewery’s lieve it?” other offerings, which include If you’ve tried Olé Chit, a porter, two saisons and a you probably understand why range of ales. it’s become popular at Platy“We thought this would be pus. It packs a punch, with an a wonderful opportunity to alcohol by volume of 6 per- showcase our flavor combinacent, but also is palatable and tions into a Mexican lager. It’s light. something that is the Texas Hanrahan said it’s made aspect of Platypus Brewing,” traditionally using corn, is not Hanrahan said. “We’ve got a hop-forward and has refresh- wonderful demographic here ing, citrusy flavors. It pairs that likes Mexican lagers, and well with spicy foods, which there was a serious lack of are common in Mexican cui- Mexican lagers at that time in sine. the craft beer industry. “We brought it out initially “If you wanted a Mexito be a seasonal, but what can lager in Houston, you we’ve found is it’s quickly were forced to drink a macro becoming a staple for us,” (beer). That’s not a problem. Hanrahan said. “It’s just so It was just a shortage of easy to drink.” choices.” The name Olé Chit is en-
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