The Leader • Saturday, September 21, 2019 • Page 1B
Taco takes: Dish’s versatility contributes to its popularity
Zuvie’s Brews: Look to brewer from down under for solid Mexican lager
Zarah Parker
Adam
Managing Editor
From a traditional Mexican dish of al pastor topped with cilantro and onions to the Texas tradition of wrapping pretty much anything in a tortilla, Houstonians can appreciate all forms of the taco. That’s especially true during Hispanic Heritage Month, which is from Sept. 15Oct. 15. “To me the taco will always be simple yet beautiful. It comes down to a mix of protein and veggies, a good tortilla and a spicy salsa,” said Marco Torres, who grew up in Northside and has written taco-related features for Houstonia Magazine. “You can add cheese or avocado or fancy micro-greens, but the holy taco trinity is what I admire most.” The traditional Mexican dish has seen an evolution in America with the addition of toppings such as sour cream, lettuce, tomatoes and yellow cheese. But Torres doesn’t necessarily see those additions as an evolution of the dish. “I actually don’t believe that the taco has evolved beyond the already amazing flavors that have existed for centuries,” Torres said. “The taco has been here way before us and will be here long after we’re gone. It might be more popular nowadays because of social media and because of the foodie culture, but the taco has already been this awesome and this delicious.” Lance Fegen, the culinary director for Liberty Kitchen, said that with so much diversity throughout the United States, it’s only natural that everyone will take a relatively simple dish and get creative with it. “That being said, I am a traditionalist when it comes to ordering tacos for myself,” Fegen said. “For instance, when I drive through Mexico on my surf trips, I order what I first see at a taco stand. Maybe it’s a taco de bistec or al pastor, or perhaps something with goat, escamoles or nopales.” He orders the tacos as they come without any adjustments. He said an environment brings as much flavor to tacos as a
Zuvanich Editor
cook, if not more. “I think it’s important to remember and represent tacos’ roots when developing a taco recipe and avoid going crazy for the sake of being crazy, keeping in mind that just because something seems enticing on paper, it may not work in practice,” Fegen said. Fegan also said he doesn’t think there’s a limitation on taco toppings. To him, the “spirit” of the taco is that it’s limitless. Fegen is familiar with sticking to taco roots and still getting creative with a recipe. For Liberty Kitchen, 1050 Studewood St., he worked months developing a version of what he called many people’s favorite fast-food taco. “Ours are made with good ingredients,” Fegen said. “Meats by Linz ground beef, taco seasoning, white American cheese triangles, shredded lettuce, tomato and, of course, that red sauce, reminiscent of what comes in a packet.” These tacos, which are called J’ ‘N B’ tacos, were created for the fun of it. “I stopped taking my self seriously as a chef a few years ago,” Fegen said. “If
we aren’t having fun, if we aren’t cooking food that recalls memories and emotions from our years past, then I’m not sure what we’re doing here.” While Houston has plenty options for a more “Americanized” taco, Torres said the city is blessed with taco traditions and flavors from many regions. “We have trompo, bistec and carne asada from Northern Mexico, suadero and pastor from Mexico City, delicious barbacoa and breakfast tacos from the Rio Grande Valley, and Tex-Mex BBQ from Austin and San Antonio,” Torres said. Torres said people ask him all the time if he ever gets tired of eating tacos. His answer is that he doesn’t, because there’s so much variety. “The quintessential Houston taco experience is the late-night taco,” Torres said. “A long day of work or after a concert or the club, we stopped by our favorite taco truck for a round of greasy tacos, frijoles and a Coke. It might not be the healthiest, but damn it I’m going to die happy.”
REVIEW:
La Fondita Michoacan makes buena comida By Adam Zuvanich azuvanich@theleadernews.com
If you walk into a Mexican restaurant and are greeted in the Spanish language, don’t be alarmed. That often is a good thing, even if you don’t speak in the same tongue. Just make sure you don’t order beef tongue, unless that’s what you want. I steered clear of la lengua during a recent visit to La Fondita Michoacan, an affordable, assuming staple in the Heights that might as well be in a border town. The décor is decidedly rooted in Mexican culture, the menu is printed in English and Spanish and the staff is bilingual as well. There was no need for translation when it came to the authentic, fresh food I was served, which would have been excellent in any language. The corn tortillas and even the tortilla chips were homemade, which is rare for a Mexican restaurant. While La Fondita Michoacan offers a wide range of Latin American cuisine – including enchiladas, huaraches, tortas, tostadas, seafood and soups – it specializes in Mexican food. And there’s no simpler, more satisfying selection than tacos. There are 12 taco fillings available at La Fondita Michoacan, including the aforementioned beef tongue. I ordered my own sampler plat-
Photo by Adam Zuvanich Tacos are made traditionally at La Fondita Michoacan.
ter, ordering four tacos filled with carne asada (beef fajita), tinga (shredded chicken with chipotle sauce), al pastor (marinated pork) and nopales (sliced cactus). I got them all on corn tortillas, because, well, why wouldn’t I? And each included the traditional garnish of chopped white onions and cilantro. I had to ask for a lime wedge, which is my one and only complaint about the place. Each of the tacos was hot, fresh and, best of all, tasty. The carne asada was juicy and tender, the tinga had a spicy, smoky flavor that made a salsa accompaniment unnecessary, and the al pastor boasted a delectable blend of sweetness and spice. The nopales, one of two vegetarian taco options along with rajas (sliced poblano peppers), were just as good
as the meat. The cactus slices were perfectly cooked – not too crunchy and not too mushy – and had a tangy flavor with a hint of sweetness. The tacos were complemented by La Fondita Michoacan’s three homemade salsas. The table salsa served with the chips was mild, fresh and slightly chunky, like it had been poured into a bowl straight from the blender. The two other sauces, one green and one bright red, were served in plastic squeeze bottles. The green salsa was spicy but not overpowering. The same could not be said of the red, which was blistering hot. The stuff awakens the senses and clears the sinuses, so caution is advised and kids should probably stay away. With that said, any place that serves a salsa that spicy deserves credit for being unabashedly bold. Some Mexi-
can restaurants take it too easy with their spice levels, which can be a turn-off for those who seek heat. La Fondita Michoacan owes no apologies for its food or its atmosphere, which is rooted in Mexican pride and features the colors of the Mexican flag – red, white and green – throughout its dining room. There also is a TV that was tuned to Telemundo, an old-style jukebox with Latin records and Christian artwork on the wall. On the back wall of the restaurant is a black-andwhite painting that features Emiliano Zapata along with a quote from the leader of the Mexican Revolution: “Es major morir de pie que vivir de rodillas,” which translates to, “It is better to die on your feet than to live on your knees.” So don’t beg for more tacos, even if you are tempted. Instead, take a walk to burn off the calories from the tacos you already ate. La Fondita Michoacan Address: 1010 N. Shepherd Hours: 8 a.m.–8 p.m. Monday-Tuesday and Thursday-Saturday, 8 a.m.-4 p.m. Wednesday, 9 a.m.-5 p.m. Sunday Pricing: $6.50-$13.95 Kid-friendly: Yes Alcohol: Yes Healthy options: No Star of the show: Taco al pastor
joyable in its own right. Along with sounding like a common profane phrase, it blends Mexican culture with beermaking vernacular. The Spanish term “Olé” is an interjection used to express triumph or joy. Hanrahan said chitting is an early step in the process that transforms grain into malt. The beer’s name was the brainchild of Platypus’ head brewer, Kerry Embertson, who according to Hanrahan came up with the name before the recipe. The brewery recently had Olé Chit registered as a trademark, and it’s accompanied on cans by the
Corona, Dos Equis, Modelo and Tecate. Those Mexican brands and others are familiar to beer drinkers all over Houston, which is not too terribly far from the southern border of the United States. They are easy to find, easy to drink and generally easy on one’s personal finances. Still, it’s hard to believe that until last year, Houston never had a Mexican-style brew to call its own. Platypus Brewing, the area craft brewpub located at 1902 Washington Ave. Suite E, became the first Contributed photo when it concocted a Mexican-style Olé Chit, made by Platypus Brewing, was pioneer for Mexican-style craft beer in lager called Olé aHouston when it debuted last year. Chit. The cleverly named brew has since be- image of a man with a thick come one of the top sellers mustache who is wearing a for Platypus, according to co- sombrero pulled down over owner Sean Hanrahan. his eyes. Considering the brewery’s “It’s so great,” Hanrahan origin, it was an unlikely said. “It encapsulates our percandidate to be a pioneer of sonality and sense of humor.” Mexican beer in Houston. While Platypus Brewing The market now also in- has Australian roots, it’s also cludes Hecho En Conroe, a planted firmly in Texas, where Mexican-style lager made by there is a significant Mexican Southern Star Brewing. influence. Hanrahan’s wife, Hanrahan and Platypus Rachna, is from Sugar Land, co-founder Morgan Hughes and he and Hughes also met are Australian. Many of their in Houston. beers are influenced by their Wrapped around the top of home country and pay hom- Platypus’ cans is the phrase, age to it. “Brewed with Texan heart “It took an Aussie to do a and Australian soul.” That apMexican lager in Houston,” plies to the Mexican lager as Hanrahan said. “Can you be- much as any of the brewery’s lieve it?” other offerings, which include If you’ve tried Olé Chit, a porter, two saisons and a you probably understand why range of ales. it’s become popular at Platy“We thought this would be pus. It packs a punch, with an a wonderful opportunity to alcohol by volume of 6 per- showcase our flavor combinacent, but also is palatable and tions into a Mexican lager. It’s light. something that is the Texas Hanrahan said it’s made aspect of Platypus Brewing,” traditionally using corn, is not Hanrahan said. “We’ve got a hop-forward and has refresh- wonderful demographic here ing, citrusy flavors. It pairs that likes Mexican lagers, and well with spicy foods, which there was a serious lack of are common in Mexican cui- Mexican lagers at that time in sine. the craft beer industry. “We brought it out initially “If you wanted a Mexito be a seasonal, but what can lager in Houston, you we’ve found is it’s quickly were forced to drink a macro becoming a staple for us,” (beer). That’s not a problem. Hanrahan said. “It’s just so It was just a shortage of easy to drink.” choices.” The name Olé Chit is en-
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Page 2B • Saturday, September 21, 2019 • The Leader
Art Valet: Colorful Pakistani culture coming soon to Spring Street Studios Mitch Cohen Art Columnist
The word folk refers to people. Add music after it, and Texans might think of The Kerrville Folk Festival. Follow with art, and the Orange Show Center for Visionary Art comes to mind. Admit it. It just does. Folk art refers to art that is indigenous to a culture, typically by people never trained in the “finer arts.” In Houston, that might include most art cars. That is, in fact, my goal for The Market at Sawyer Yards, a folk artist marketplace. On Sept. 28-29 at Spring Street Studios, 1824 Spring St., the Indus Arts Council will present “Rung a Rung - Tea and Truck Art,” an immersive experience into the culture of Pakistan through its delicious, regional teas and colorful truck art. They had me at truck art. Nothing else got my attention until I read a news release sent over by Sara Iqbal, co-founder of the Indus Arts Council. Now I am all in and thrilled to share the event and activities with you. “Rung a Rung” means “colorful,” and Indus Arts Council is creating a colorful cultural experience for Houston families to indulge in the nuances of Pakistani tea and truck art culture, created through interactive performances, art, food and children’s activities. Tea is used by many Asian and Eastern countries in their daily lives almost ritualistically as an element to cleanse or commune. Tea in Pakistan takes on a unique stance where it is essential to hospitality and weaving bonds of friendship and long-term relationships between strangers
and families. In addition to the two-day festival, guests are invited to indulge in Urdu Poetry (Mushaira) over dinner on Sept. 28 from 7–9:30 p.m. The poetry is themed around truck art and the famous verses written on trucks in Pakistan. These verses provide ample entertainment as humor, satire and “words from the wise.” This is an adults-only exclusive look at the art and entertainment on the opening night. Iqbal told me the event is open to all Houstonians. At last year’s event, a 3,000 square foot space could barely contain the attendance, so this year they are utilizing the spacious Spring Street Studios in Sawyer Yards. The event has activities geared toward individuals or entire families. On the agenda, there will be a truck art painting and sculpture sale, crafts for kids that include truck art tile painting, paper quilling and jewelry making. There also will be rickshaw rides on an authentic rickshaw. You won’t want to miss live painting on canvas by truck art artist Haider Ali, who is touring the United States showing off his unique folk art form. Truck art has been popular in South Asia, and particularly Pakistan, for many years. Iqbal said that when truckers paid off their trucks and owned them outright, they would decorate them with motifs, portraits and symbols to show their ownership. With the brightest colors used, they must be quite the spectacle to see on the road. In addition to having a guest truck artist at the festival, there will be local artists’ works for sale, many honoring Pakistan’s truck art. Indus Arts Council is a nonprofit organization conceived in 2012 and has become a leading arts and cultural organization of Pakistani descent in the Houston area. Its mission is to promote awareness
Contributed photo Farid Ahmad, right, decorates a truck with Pakistani folk art.
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EVERY SATURDAY Contributed photo Artwork like Farid Ahmad’s truck painting will be displayed at Rung a Rung - Tea and Truck Art on Sept. 28-29 at Spring Street Studios.
of Pakistani arts and culture in the U.S. through Urdu language classes, cultural events, films and theatre. It envisions diversity through cultural exchange amongst global communities. Fun fact: Urdu is an official language of Pakistan and among the top 10 languages spoken in Houston, where a total a 145 languages other than English are spoken. The Indus Arts Council offers Urdu language classes for all ages. The poetry evening will be held Sept. 28 from 7:30–9:30 pm. This is an adults-only evening program. A ticket must be purchased separately for this evening event. General admission tickets, which are $10 per adult, and discounted family tickets are available online at indusartscouncil.org. The event, scheduled for 1-6 p.m. Sept. 28 and noon-5 p.m. Sept. 29, is partly funded by Houston Arts Alliance through the City of Houston. Cohen is an artist and founder of First Saturday Arts Market and the Market at Sawyer Yards. Find him at ArtValet.com.
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The Leader • Saturday, September 21, 2019 • Page 3B
Area hospital receives high marks, hires new executive
Dak & Bop coming to Timbergrove By Zarah Parker zarah@theleadernews.com
Timbergrove is soon to be home to the second location of Dak & Bop, a restaurant that specializes in Korean fried chicken. Dak & Bop will be taking over the former La Vista 101 space at 1805 W. 18th St., according to the restaurant’s Instagram page. While the original location, which is located in the Museum District, is a fusion of Asian and Mexican cui-
sines, the new location will have a new spin. Since the Timbergrove location has leftover fixtures from La Vista 101 and the Pizza Hut that was there beforehand, this location will have a Korean-Italian fusion. Think pasta dishes and flatbreads with a Korean twist. Regardless of the fusion of cuisines, the Korean fried chicken will continue to be a staple menu item. The new Dak & Bop is expected to open in the second half of October.
From Staff Reports Memorial Hermann Greater Heights Hospital, which recently hired a new executive, has again been recognized as one of the best in Texas. The area hospital, located at 1635 N Loop W, was ranked fifth in the state in the latest “Best Hospital” list compiled by U.S. News & World Report. Memorial Hermann Greater Heights moved up one spot from last year’s rankings. The hospital held its position from last year as the third-best in Houston, ac-
Photo by Zarah Parker Dak & Bop, which specializes in fried chicken, will take over the old La Vista 101 spot at 1805 W. 18th St. next month.
Bridge back at helm at Pink’s, plans to expand By Betsy Denson betsy@theleadernews.com
Delicious Concepts owner Ken Bridge maintained a minority ownership in Pink’s Pizza since he sold majority ownership of the restaurant in 2016 to former Raising Cane’s COO Ian Vaughn. But now he’s taking his creation back after Vaughn was approached with an opportunity to sell the Pink’s brand. “I woke up in the middle of the night and it just came to me, I had to get my brand back and scale it, there was no other decision,” Bridge said in a press release. And by scale it, Bridge means up. He said that there are eight Pink’s establishments currently, with the one at George Bush Intercontinental Airport a joint venture with the LaTrelle Management Corporation. “We’re planting seeds in Dallas and San Antonio,” Bridge said. “But the initial growth will be in Houston.” Bridge said he hopes to have six to ten more Houston locations in the next 18 to 24 months. There are currently two Leader area Pink’s locations – one at 3404 N Shepherd Dr. and one at 1403 Heights Blvd. A refreshed brand is also on the agenda. That means a little bit of everything, according to
Contributed photo Ken Bridge has regained majority control of Pink’s Pizza on North Shepherd Drive and plans to expand the local pizza chain.
Bridge, including potentially a retweaked logo. “For the first couple of years, we had a DIY approach to branding at Pink’s,” Bridge said. “It won’t be so much menu changes as modernizing things.” He said they may add additional crust options and vegetable-based protein options. Pink’s best sellers are the same as with most other pizza joints – pepperoni is king, followed
by cheese. “Our core values won’t change,” Bridge said. “Anything we do will be improvements.” When The Leader first profiled Bridge back in 2012, he had the Dragon Bowl on 11th as well as four Pink Pizza restaurants, Lola’s on Yale and the Shepherd Park Draught House. Today, the CEO of Delicious Concepts counts Shepherd Park Draught House and
cording to the publication. “This is an incredible achievement for Memorial Hermann Greater Heights,” CEO and senior vice president Paul O’Sullivan said in a statement released by the hospital. “I am extremely proud of the high-quality, safe and personalized care our nurses and affiliated physicians provide daily.” Jim Murray was recently hired as the hospital’s vice president of operations, a role with responsibilities that include financial performance, compliance with regulatory agencies, patient satisfaction and employee management.
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newcomers Ritual, The Ready Room, and Blackbird Izakaya in his restaurant group. After so many years in the restaurant business, Bridge has many takeaways about the industry. “It’s a tough business, but it can be extremely rewarding.” Bridge said. “When you are younger there’s the tendency to go down the same routes and follow the same patterns.” Bridge said that as he’s matured as a person and as a restaurant owner, he’s found a good balance between the creative and commercial sides of the business. While he still appreciates a multi-concept approach, he looks forward to focusing on a single concept with Pink’s. One innovation Bridge looks forward to introducing is Roovy, a smartphone-based point of sale and payments platform that allows users to manage their entire experience directly from their smartphone, including dine-in, takeout, and delivery. Bridge said that the platform will launch at eight to ten restaurants in the near future, both those under the Delicious Concepts umbrella and some others near his offices on White Oak. “We’ve been working on it for more than two years,” Bridge said. “It’s been beta tested at Blackbird.”
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Page 4B • Saturday, September 21, 2019 • The Leader
Corn vs. flour: Picking the right tortilla Zarah Parker Managing Editor
I used to be a diehard flour tortilla-only kind of girl, until I had the pleasure of eating homemade corn tortillas. When it comes to which is better, it depends on what I’m putting inside the tortilla. That sentiment is shared by others as well. In a poll on The Leader’s Facebook page, I asked our readers which kind of tortilla they prefer. Out of 23 comments, seven said it depends on the use. That didn’t stop others from choosing a side. Out of 116 total votes, 74 people voted for flour and 42 stumped for corn. Only a few flour lovers commented on the poll, saying those are softer than corn. Others specified that they prefer flour tortillas but only if they are homemade. No matter which side you’re on, I think everyone can agree that homemade tortillas are better than the store-bought varieties. While corn tortillas entered the world first by way of the Aztecs, they aren’t the best with every type of meal. Corn tortillas are on the smaller side because they have a texture that would cause them to break apart easier if they were bigger. Flour tortillas, on the other hand, often are sturdier and can hold up under the weight of heavier fillings.
When making a traditional, simple taco, using a corn tortilla is the way to go. The simplicity of a (well-made) corn tortilla will improve a taco without getting in the way of the flavors of the filling. Think street tacos. Other dishes that call for corn tortillas include tostadas, which are served on fried corn tortillas, and taquitos, which are corn tortillas filled, rolled up and fried. Tortilla chips also are made with corn tortillas, for the most part. While they can be made with flour, for the restaurant-style chip we all know and love, they have to be made with corn. Corn may have a jump on tacos. But when it comes to breakfast tacos, flour tortillas are the way to go. Breakfast filling tends to be heavier and heartier, like eggs, sausage and potatoes. Flour tortillas provide a sturdier base. Along the lines of having a strong base to start with, and needing a bigger tortilla, flour should be used when making a burrito. It’s not a dish that’s technically Mexican, but I think we can call it a staple of TexMex food. Quesadillas, of course, are made with two flour tortillas, and to find one made with corn is rare. Flautas are like the big sister of taquitos, but made with flour, which causes them to be a little softer than their crunchier counterpart. When it comes to fajitas, it’s usually a personal preference that has someone reaching for corn or flour. Because fajitas are usually filled with various meats and toppings, I usually go for flour tortillas.
Stock photos Choosing the proper tortilla, corn or flour, goes a long way toward enjoying Mexican cuisine. Some dishes are better with corn and some are more suited for flour, but personal preference also counts. Some prefer the taste and texture of corn tortillas, while others find flour tortillas more enjoyable.
Family hopes silly socks can raise suicide awareness By Betsy Denson
Contributed photo
betsy@theleadernews.com
Layne Turner’s mother, Shana, said his light was a bright one in their family and that his orbit was powerful. “We waited all day to hear Layne’s stories at dinner,” Shana Turner said. “He was smart. He was very philosophical. He was so funny. And he was passionate about making other people happy.” But there were other things Layne struggled with that his parents tried to help him overcome. “He didn’t fit in any box,” his mother said. “He had a lot of anxiety about the ‘what are you going to do after school’ question. We were all very protective of him.” Shana said her son suffered from depression and was diagnosed with a borderline personality disorder, which affected the way he saw himself and related to others. He had previously attempted suicide and took part in inpatient programs, outpatient programs and individual and family counseling. On Feb. 8, 2018, the Waltrip High School senior died by suicide, and it is now his mother’s goal to honor his memory with a program to help others. “The plan was to throw a garage sale and get a 501(c)(3) set up,” Shana said. However, once she posted her preliminary plans on the Oak Forest Homeowners Association Facebook page, the initiative took on a life of its own. “It just blew up,” Shana said of the response. One person who reached out to her as a result of the post was Houston ISD Board President Diana Davila, who told her that she had been looking for a way for the district to address suicide. Davila invited Shana to last week’s board meeting, where Shana shared Layne’s story and her mission to raise awareness and increase education about suicide. “Layne wore silly socks every single day,” Shana said. “He had 50 pairs. At his memorial, we wanted everyone to wear bright colors and silly socks to celebrate his life.” Friends began posting
The family of Layne Turner, a former Waltrip High School student who died in February 2018, is trying to raise suicide awareness and education through the use of colorful socks.
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3410 Ella Blvd. at 34th St. their silly socks photos in remembrance of Layne. When a friend from Spring Branch ISD took a photo of track team members wearing socks with the hashtag #socksforsuicideprevention, Shana was inspired. There is now a website – www.socksforsuicideprevention.com – and the resolve to have people wear silly socks during September, which is National Suicide Prevention Month, with the socks hashtag. On Sept. 10, which is World Suicide Prevention Day, many wore their socks and tagged the effort on Facebook and Instagram. The longer-term goal is to raise money and awareness with the socks and then to offer training and education about suicide in middle schools and high schools for students and those who work with them. Shana also wants to combat the stigmas of suicide – from the blame parents inflict upon themselves to the erroneous notion that with enough therapy, willpower and medication, it is possible to always prevent someone’s death. “It’s not always someone sitting alone in a room writ-
ing in a journal,” Shana said. “They could be high functioning, and no one has a clue how much they are hurting.” She also wants people to get more comfortable saying the word suicide. “It’s OK to say the word,” Shana said. “No one ever used to say the word breast cancer either.” At the family’s yard sale, Shana said she met many strangers who opened up to her about their experience with suicide. “A few had never told anyone,” she said. On Sept. 26, Layne would have been 19 years old, and the milestone will be a hard one for the Turner family. “Everyone always asks what they can do to help,” Shana said. “If kids and parents are wearing their silly socks on Layne’s birthday, it would be such a healing thing for us as a family to see that much love and support for us and for Layne.” For more information about how to get involved with the Turner family’s nonprofit, or to procure a pair of silly socks, email info@socksforsuicideprevention.
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Contributed photo Shana (sixth from left in front row) and Jeff (center in back row) Turner pose with supporters of their initiative aimed at raising suicide awareness after a recent Houston ISD board meeting.
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