The Leader • Saturday, July 20, 2019 • Page 1B
Gastropubs grow in popularity Zarah Parker Managing Editor
There are two ways to define a gastropub. Some say it’s a place that equally emphasizes the quality of its food and drink options, while others say it’s simply a bar that serves good food. Robin Stranahan at Shepherd Park Draught House, 3402 N. Shepherd Dr., stresses three characteristics that make a place a gastropub. “It’s a public house that offers above-average bar food, a public house being a community meeting spot,” Stranahan said. “I think not only just a bar and restaurant, but having that aspect of community. “ In other words, gastropubs have good drinks, good food and good camaraderie. Gastropubs have grown in popularity and become something of the norm in neighborhoods such as the Heights, Garden Oaks and Oak Forest. “And that’s something I feel like Shepherd Park really capitalizes on because of our neighborhood and the vibe,” Stranahan said. The growth of gastropubs in the area isn’t surprising to Stranahan. With the boom of bars and restaurants, a level of quality has to be attained in every product. But as Stranahan pointed out, what sets a gastropub apart from a restaurant or bar is that communal feel. A pub, short for public house, has long been part of European history. It
Contributed photo Customers enjoy food and drinks on the patio at Shepherd Park Draught House, 3402 N. Shepherd Dr. It is one of several area gastropubs, which have become increasingly popular among local residents.
served as the community hub where people could stop by, discuss an array of topics and have a cold brew.
Snacks, or “pub fare,” was served, with options like shepherd’s pie or fish and chips. In general, the fare
took a backseat to the brews and conversation. “Gastropub” was coined shortly
before the turn of the 21st century. While pubs may have begun to pay more attention to their food quality before the term gastropub came about, the trend didn’t come to America until the early 2000s. “That’s the cool thing about Houston. You can’t get away with doing anything subpar anymore. It’s just not going to fly,” Stranahan said. “Everyone has to level up.” Cuisine served at gastropubs ranges from fine-tuned pub favorites, like elevating the shepherd’s pie with fresh ingredients, to experimental items that push the envelope on what could be considered pub fare. Gastropubs take pride in their food quality and taste, but as Stranahan mentioned, it doesn’t mean it’s expensive and unapproachable. It’s still a place of casual dining. Shepherd Park’s menu has a variety of options, with small plates, shareable items, burgers and sandwiches. There is also a brunch menu. “This is one of my favorite spots. I love getting the turkey avocado sandwich,” said a Shepherd Park patron. “And the staff is always friendly. It’s like the show ‘Cheers.’ Everyone knows your name.” The Barking Pig, 2307 Ella Blvd., is a gastropub that seasonally rotates its craft beer and menu selections. “There are a lot of bars, especially trendy bars, in the Heights, but Barking Pig is still a standout,” said Ryan Miller, a patron of The Barking Pig. “The patio has lots of seating and a nice view of the neighborhood. Inside it’s trendy, but still comfortable.” See Gastropubs P. 12B
REVIEW:
Tomorrow’s another day ... to return to Heights gastropub By Adam Zuvanich azuvanich@theleadernews.com
The name of the place doesn’t make sense, at least not to me. Because during each of my three visits to 544 Yale St., I never felt as if I had a lack of good fortune or would need some the following day. Going to Better Luck Tomorrow, for fans of good food, good drinks and good times, feels like hitting the jackpot from the moment you walk in. The popular Heights gastropub, which opened in 2017 and is owned by Bobby Heugel and award-winning chef Justin Yu, features a funkyyet-relaxed vibe and an eclectic crowd that can congregate in booths, at the bar or on one of two outdoor patios. No matter your preferences – in a seat, in a glass or on a plate – quality and attentive service are constants. Another common thread, at least in my experience, is the fried chicken. I ordered it the first time I went to Better Luck Tomorrow and felt compelled to get it again the next two times. It’s that good – maybe the best fried chicken I’ve ever eaten. It’s also the most unique. The menu says the chicken is tossed with brown butter and seasoned schmaltz, which is rendered chicken fat, and it’s served cut into pieces, topped
with fresh dill and parsley and – and fresh mint, which brings with a lemon wedge on the the dish together without beside. It’s flaky, crispy, juicy and ing overpowering. tasty, with hints of both sweetThe dark red seasoning on ness and spice. the corn, though, was a little Better yet, the $17 dish is much, making it a little too accompanied by greens and salty and a little too messy. a starch served together as an But the corn was left on the equally scrumptious side dish. cob, cut into small pieces and A few Hasselback potatoes, grilled until parts of it turned which are baked and cut about black – which made it tender halfway through in several slices, are topped with The chicken is tossed with fresh watercress dressed in tangy, brown butter and seasoned lemony goodschmaltz. It’s flaky, crispy, juicy ness. I like to eat and tasty, with hints of both the two together, and they make sweetness and spice. for a perfect complement to the chicken. I’ve tried four of the other and juicy – and the dental floss nine food options at Better pick served with it made for a Luck Tomorrow, and none dis- clever, thoughtful touch. appointed. The Wagyu Beef Gestures like that are comSalad is similar to a Caesar mon at Better Luck Tomor– with greens, herbs, pickled row, where guests are greeted peppers and a tamarind-but- with a glass of water before termilk dressing – and topped ordering. And while the place with tender, medium-rare specializes in serving quality steak. The Party Melt, with a foods and drinks, the staff isn’t beef patty, crispy cheese and too stuffy to cater to specific caramelized onions, is like a needs. patty melt but better. Better Luck Tomorrow has See Better Luck P. 12B vegetarian options, too, including fried cauliflower and griddled corn. The former was hearty enough to be a meal, with the crunchy cauliflower mixed with almonds, raisins, a guajillo-tomatillo sauce that is equal parts spicy and sweet
Photo by Adam Zuvanich The fried chicken with Hasselback potatoes and watercress at Better Luck Tomorrow.
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