Around the World, a Food & Drink focus edition on worldly tastes in the neighborhood. Saturday, May 20, 2017 • Page 1B
King’s BierHaus shares modern twist on tradition, culture By Christina Martinez
Christina@theleadernews.com
When Johann “Hans” and Philipp Sitter started their first business venture, they had no idea what they were doing. They opened up a hand-wash car wash, and passed out free beer and bratwurst to customers, even without permits - because they didn’t know any better. Today, however, they do know better - with their second bier garden concept opening this month in Shady Acres, King’s BierHaus. The father-and-son duo are from Vienna, Austria – transplanting to the states in 1996. The two came over with restaurant, butchery, and vineyard knowledge – all crafts for their family name. The two came over with an idea to share their culture and make a buck, the Houston permit system just welcomed them with (probably) a couple of fines. Lessons learned, the Sitters went to work. “It was our dream to make a little bratwurst stand, or shack for the customers at the car wash,” Philipp Sitter said. “My dad and I raised money by selling classic cars, got a loan and built a 45 seat shack that was called King’s Biergarten. It was just supposed to be something for the customers to grab a brat and beer while getting their car washed.”
The shack started with a word document menu that had photos and accompanied descriptions, something Sitter notes that wasn’t supposed to be serious. Then came the fan following. In a four year span, the shack expanded into a concept 13 times, investing into the business to match the needed growth – expanding the menu, beer list, and offerings. “Our expansion took us from 45 seats to 350 plus seats,” Sitter said. “This is year six and a half for us, and we’ve added on King’s BierHaus, which is a sister concept to the Biergarden. The difference is [King’s BierHaus] more modern, more fusion, more open beer house seating options, and the ordering style is different.” From the menu, Sitter explains items being all based from family recipes that date back for decades. A few standout items that lead more on the traditional side are the Giant Beer Pretzel, Liptauer Spread, Oma’s Fried Chicken and the Vienna Goulash. Sitter also mentions the term “fusion” and by this means there’s something on the menu for just about anyone, even those who don’t feel like trying something German – a Greek salad, pretzel grilled cheese, burger, schnitzel, sausage plate, or even loaded fries. Behind the bar, there are
Photos by Christina Martinez From the left going clockwise, King’s BierHaus’ Giant Beer Pretzel; a four flight tasting Andechs Doppelbock, Weltenburger Asamback, Andechs Weissbierhell, and Vitus; Oma’s Famous Fried Chicken.
31 taps and 26 of those taps are German beers; four being from German monastery breweries; two German beers that King’s has exclusive rights to sell - Weltenburger Dopplebock and Andechs Weissbier Dunkel. There are also German and Austrian wines on the menu, or wines from the states on tap. There is a full
Greek tastes offered at Helen in the Heights
Contributed photo Helen in the Heights, formally Arthur Ave, is located at 1111 Studewood St Suite B.
By Jennifer Layer For The Leader Roughly three years ago, a man named Even Turner had a dream of opening a Greek restaurant. Everyone told Even he was crazy, everyone except a chef named William Wright. “The real reason I decided to push for it was because it was interesting to me,” said William Wright, Executive Chef. Before I got into cooking I was studying anthropology. But I dropped out of that and went to culinary school instead because that was closer to my interest. But I promised myself that I would still try and focus on and learn about different aspects of the world. So this idea was cool to me because I got to learn about the culture while also learning about the food.” This mutual love for Greek Culture and food was the foundation of the success of Helen Greek Food and Wine in The Village. It wasn’t until later that the idea of expanding to the Heights came about. “The two restaurants have slightly different menus,” said Wright. “The one in The Village is more experimental and sort of pushing the limits of what people think of when they think of Greek food. While the one in the Heights is more iconic Greek cuisine
and comfort food.” I went to Helen in the Heights this past weekend to get a taste of Greece. The first thing I noticed as I walked in, was that my flip flop and T-shirt attire may have been a little too causal for the classy atmosphere. However, I did not feel unwelcomed or uncomfortable at all, as the greeters quickly greeted me, shook my hand, and sat me down at the bar. I had the pleasure of trying two meze style dishes, the Cheese Saganaki and the Spiced Meatballs. The first dish to come out was the Cheese Saganaki, with a side of pita bread. The dish was splendid and would work well as an appetizer for a larger table rather than just one person. Being a cheese fanatic myself, the experience was exciting as it showed me a whole different side and texture of cheese I have never tried before. “The cheese used is halloumi cheese, which is made from goat milk,” said Beverage Director Josh Bearden. “The cheese is thrown on the grill ever so quickly, and the liquid that renders out of the cheese is what’s mostly in there. Right before it comes to you, we will dress it with ouzo, and the ouzo is what gives it that sweet flavor. It is served with the side of pita bread because some peo-
ple like to spread it on the bread, but, I myself, just eat it straight.” I tried both ways of eating with and without the pita bread and found it to be more flavorful without the pita but more filling with. The next dish to come out was the Spiced Meatballs. The meatballs were one of the most savory and flavorful foods I have had in a while. They are made with slow cooked lamb meat and were spiced with roasted garlic and toasted cumin. I would highly recommend this dish as a personal entrée for an individual or as an appetizer for a couple. With my meal I was served a cocktail drink called Tears of Chios, which is made with a Greek liqueur called Skinos Mastiha. The Mastiha is made from the sap resin that drips from trees found only on the Greek island of Chios. The drink was minty and flavorful, and had an interesting yet wonderful contrast with the savory meal I was scarfing down. “We named the restaurant Helen Greek Wine and Food because of the way wine and food naturally go together,” said Wright. “But getting cocktails to go with food is
Helen 3B
bar for cocktails, and even a strong schnapps program – with schnapps flights readily available. And if you’re feeling beer-adventurous, a 2.5 Liter beer called “Das Boot,” yes you get to keep the boot. For dessert, only two things are listed and for reason. The first being house made strudel with two options: apple and
cream cheese. The next offering being gelato, hand-made by Hans himself. “[My dad] makes all of his gelatos from scratch, it’s hilarious to watch,” Sitter said. He turns on Italian music while he makes them. He wanted to make them himself, so he went to California for two weeks to a creamery to learn how.”
When it comes to sharing their culture, Sitter said his family is not a purist in any sense. In fact, he said they are trying to show a modern version of their culture, even if that makes them cliché. “We’re playing up to the clichés because we enjoy it,” he said. “We’re very cliché in everything we do.”
Step into India, Hare Krishna culture at Govinda’s restaurant By Kim Hogstrom For The Leader
For years, residents in near north Houston have complained about living in an Indian food desert. We enjoyed an abundance of other fare: Italian, Mexican, barbecue, Chinese, even Thai - but no Indian. In 2016, that changed with the addition of Govinda’s at the ISKCON Temple on 34th Street. Today, we have at hand, what may be the best Indian restaurant in Houston - a definite competitor for our area. Govinda’s, which means “one who brings pleasure to the senses,” is located on the property of the Hare Krishna temple on the edge of Garden Oaks. The structure’s beautiful blue and gold spires reach 90 feet skyward, making it impossible to miss. The vegetarian and vegan cuisine served at Govinda’s is
and serves heavenly lunch and dinner all-you-can-eat buffets daily. Krishna values and traditions guide the chef ’s hand in the creation of each meal - good food, good friends, and healthy dining are at the core of every dish. The recipes represent an 8,000year-old collection of multicultural melding, similar to India itself. “When we first visited Govinda’s, it was mostly out of curiosity,” stated Oak Forest resident Patrick McDougle. “I thought ‘How good can a vegetarian restaurant really be?’ We were completely blown away by the flavors. It was that good. The saag paneer (cooked spinach, milk and cheese) and roti with ghee (flat wheat bread with butter) alone are worth the visit.” “We are proud that we can offer something so healthy to the community,” General Manger Das said. “People like
Krishnas believe then reaches to the human spirit. Attainment of peace and harmony are at the very foundation of Krishna teachings. ISKCON is a neighbor in our community. The temple serves 600 local, under-privileged children’s lunches each week. And Govinda’s recently added a new program. Schools are welcome to bring children in for a field trip to tour the temple and gardens, then have lunch at the restaurant at a 40 percent discount. It’s a trip to India in one afternoon. Govinda’s customers are also encouraged to stroll the temple when visiting. Take a moment to enjoy the murals and colors in the grand hall, and the lush gardens. There is a boutique in the main building offering affordable books, art, figurines, toys, and natural fiber clothing perfectly suited to a Houston summer.
Contributed photo A view of Govinda’s Vegetarian Cuisine buffet style offerings, located at 1320 W. 34th St.
created from the freshest possible local ingredients under the care of the husband and wife team of chefs, Joynitai and Jamuna Dasadhikari. The couple bring years of experience with other restaurants to the table. Amar Singh Bishwakarma is the former executive chef at 5-star Bombay Brasserie in India and works as Govinda’s chef de cuisine. General Manager and President of the ISKCON temple, Syamsunder Das keeps a warmful watchful eye over all. The restaurant is spotless,
our food, and our welcoming attitude. We first thought we would rotate the types of fare: Italian one day, Mexican the next, and so on, but our customers asked us to serve Indian food everyday. They really enjoy it. We have some who visit three or four times a week.” The restaurant operates as a non-profit, and the recipes are the result of thousands of years of holistic study and practice. Each is a blend of flavors and spices designed to create health and harmony in the body, a balance that
“We are proud to be here, and we want the community to get to know us. After all, if one cannot afford a trip to the Taj Mahal, we are the next best thing,” Das said with a smile. Lunch at Govinda’s is served from 11 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. coming in at $10.95. Dinner is served from 5 to 9 p.m. and will cost $12.95. Both are available seven days a week. The menu is normally 75 percent vegan. On Sundays, it is all vegan. There is no alcohol, but there are three housemade beverages available.