October 17 Section B

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The Leader • Saturday, October 17, 2020 • Page 1B

Explore German cuisine without leaving town Zarah Parker Managing Editor

Food is a big part of German culture. The well-known German fairy tale Hansel and Gretel even centers on food with bread crumbs and a house made of gingerbread. German food tends to be hearty with hefty meat portions, but the main staples of German cuisine are sausage, sauerkraut and beer. “If you were to visit Germany, you would find over 1,500 types of sausages throughout the country,” said Philipp Sitter, co-owner of King’s Bierhaus, 2044 E. T.C. Jester Blvd. “Historically, the sausage was made to preserve meat as much as possible. Over time, the sausage became a representation of Germany’s food culture.” King’s Bierhaus is one of two area restaurants that specialize in German cuisine, with the other being Heights Bier Garten at 1433 N. Shepherd Dr. Both bring the taste of Germany to Houston. Bratwurst, which is grilled sausage, is one of the most popular street foods in Germany. It’s usually made with pork or veal and seasoned with ginger, nutmeg, coriander or caraway. Knockwurst, which is boiled sausage, is made from finely ground beef or pork. Weisswurst, which is bacon sausage, is a Bavarian sausage made from minced veal and pork back bacon. It’s prepared by cooking in hot water, but not boiling water or it would split the casing. Sauerkraut is finely cut cabbage usually fermented by various lactic acid bacteria. The acid gives the sauerkraut a distinctive sour taste. Sauerkraut has a long shelf life and is often served alongside meat dishes.

Stock photo

Two are two places in the area to get traditional German cuisine, which includes sausage, sauerkraut and beer.

The third side of German cuisine, beer, was actually created by monastery monks in Germany. Sitter said the world’s oldest breweries can be found in Germany, with the oldest being Weihenstephaner, which was founded in 1040 in Freising. “German beer focuses on traditional ways of brewing,” Sitter said. “Reinheitsgebot is a 500-plus-year-

old law designed to preserve the purity of German beer. It’s practiced throughout the country and helps keep their beer’s authentic flavor.” Under this law, the only ingredients allowed in the production of beer is water, barley and hops. While sausage, sauerkraut and beer are staples of German cuisine, there’s much more to it.

Sitter also mentioned the traditional German dishes Schweinshaxe and Spaetzle. Schweinshaxe, or pork shank, is sometimes the size of a human head. “(Making schweinshaxe) is a whole day cooking process, starting with a weekly Himalayan salt brine, then cooking the entire shank in fresh veggie stock and finishing it off in the

oven for the awesome crispy skin,” Sitter said. Spaetzle, or egg noodles, is handmade with flour, eggs, salt and a small amount of fizzy water. Traditionally, the dish is made by scraping thin strips of dough off a chopping board into boiling water. Follow us on social media @FromTheLeader

Review: Heights Bier Garten offers worldly experience By Stefan Modrich news@theleadernews.com

Nearly a month into its reopening, Heights Bier Garten has evolved into a destination for foodies, dog lovers and craft beer snobs alike. The airy and spacious patio gives you plenty of room to socially distance, and though the Houston humidity may not quite evoke your ideal Oktoberfest setting, its appeal will increase as the fall temperatures gradually decrease. It’s hard to imagine a better brunch spot. (Yes, Heights Bier Garten does indeed have a brunch menu.) The patio is flanked by two bars, one for wine and beer and another for spirits and cocktails. Everything from drinks to food is served at the bar, where you’ll find a knowledgeable and social staff that will walk you through their extensive catalog of drinks. You’ll have to pay multiple

visits to make a dent in their 96 beers on tap and 60 house cocktails. I started with two: the Kaiser Kölsch ($7), a smooth and light blonde brew from Germany. After my taste buds made a quick trip to Europe, they took a U-turn, north on North Shepherd Drive and made a left on 17th Street, where they ran into New Magnolia Brewing Company’s Rufous ($7). I’m still developing my sour beer palate, but I appreciated the tart raspberry flavor of the Rufous and it was nice to have two different flavors to pair with my meal — more on that in a bit. I gave the bartender simple instructions: to pour me two of the most different-tasting beers he could find. On that front, he came through, and to have enjoyed them both was a bonus. I’d prefer the Kaiser or something like it, given the opportunity to only choose one. Interestingly, the hype and the endorsement the same

Photo by Stefan Modrich Pictured are the Smoked Pit Beef, foreground, the Kaiser Kölsch, back left, and the New Mangolia Rufous from Heights Bier Garten.

bartender gave me raised the expectations dramatically when it came to the Smoked Pit Beef sandwich. I can’t print what he said, but if you look up what former Illinois Gov.

Rod Blagojevich said about the U.S. Senate seat vacated by former President Barack Obama, that will give you the gist of it. Anyway, it’s pastrami on

Rules about bar reopenings are drunk Zuvie’s Brews

By Adam Zuvanich

Big Star Bar has not sold a beer since March, but it still has to pay its bills. Co-owner Brad Moore said the popular Heights watering hole leases its building at 1005 W. 19th St., so its prolonged closure on account of the COVID-19 pandemic has left it “hurting” from an economic standpoint. So Moore wants to reopen as soon as possible, and Big Star Bar recently reached the verge of being legally permitted to do so. Texas Gov. Greg Abbott announced Oct. 7 that he would allow bars and similar alcohol-oriented businesses to reopen Wednesday in counties with low COVID-19 hospitalization rates – if county judges in those locales allowed that to happen. Harris County Judge Lina Hidalgo subsequently said she would not allow bars to reopen in her jurisdiction, meaning Big Star Bar must remain closed for the time being. Moore said he doesn’t blame Hidalgo for her decision, but he doesn’t complete-

ly agree with it either. “We need to open, but not at the risk of spreading the virus, not at the risk of doing something irresponsible,” he said. That is a big question that continues to face all business owners, but especially those who run bars, nightclubs, brewpubs and wineries. Abbott previously cited his reopening of those businesses in late May as a primary reason for a subsequent spike in COVID-19 cases and hospitalizations across the state, which prompted him to order them closed again in late June. But here’s the kicker: Most bars and breweries in the area, and in Houston in general, already are open. That’s because the state, in an attempt to ease the financial burden on those businesses, made it easier for them to obtain food and beverage permits from the Texas Alcoholic Beverage Commission (TABC) and reclassify as restaurants – which have been allowed to serve customers on their premises for months. The TABC rule change went into effect in early August, and most alcohol-oriented businesses in the area have taken advantage. They can do so by offering food along with alcohol, so long as non-alcohol sales account for at least 51 percent of their revenue. “There’s a million loopholes,” said Patrick Christian, co-owner of Great Heights Brewing Company at 938 Wakefield Dr. in Garden Oaks. “Pretty much everyone

is open.” That’s great for business, and Christian acknowledged as much. His brewpub has been open for on-site consumption since early September while being tied to a pizza food truck called The Purple Flour, and Christian said sales have increased as a result. But what about mitigating the spread of COVID-19, which is the reason bars had to close in the first place and the reason why owners have had to jump through hoops and shell out money for new permits and services just so they could reopen? Christian said he and his brewpub are all about keeping customers safe, so they’ve implemented social distancing protocols while reopening. He also said the reopening of bars – er, restaurants – around the region has been a boost to revenue, because breweries such as Great Heights supply them with kegs for draft sales. “I don’t think anybody would argue that having food service makes an establishment safer to be in,” Christian said. “A mathematical equation about where your sales are coming from is not keeping anyone safe.” Moore said Big Star Bar has not taken advantage of the TABC permitting change in part because the staff has not yet felt comfortable enough to reopen, and also See Zuvie’s, P. 3B

Texas Toast with cabbage, melted provolone cheese and Heights Island dressing. And it is indeed golden. I don’t think I could have found a better marriage for the Smoked Pit Beef than the pretzel, which comes with Creole Mustard and salted butter. I found myself dipping the pastrami in the mustard, and I could easily see it as a condiment for a pastrami-centered appetizer or any number of dishes. And it must be one of the most rewarding feelings in the symbiotic relationship between the restaurateur or barkeeper and the customer, the sense that you’ve just barely scratched the surface of how

exciting and adventurous a well-conceived menu can be. Heights Bier Garten Address: 1433 N. Shepherd Drive #1 Hours: 3 p.m.-midnight Monday-Wednesday, 3 p.m.-1 a.m. Thursday-Friday, 11 a.m.-1 a.m. Saturday, 11 a.m.-midnight Sunday Dining Options: Dine-in, delivery via Grubhub Entrée prices: $8-$11 Kid-friendly: No Senior discount: No Healthy options: Roasted Cauliflower ($8), Watermelon Cucumber Salad ($8) Star of the show: Smoked Pit Beef

Jennifer M. Solak Attorney & Counselor at Law

ESTATE PLANNING PROBATE BUSINESS LAW

713.588.5744

jennifer@solaklegal.com

1305 W. 11th St., #3094, Houston, TX 77008


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