The Leader • Saturday, September 19, 2020 • Page 1B
Soul of the South: Comforting cuisine rooted in struggle By Zarah Parker zarah@theleadernews.com
The ability to follow a recipe can make or break a meal. While having a great recipe is part of the answer to making appetizing soul food, even more is required for the cook. “The key to good soul food is cooking from the heart and with love,” said Esther Lewis-Bernard of Esther’s Cajun Café & Soul Food, 5204 Yale St. Soul food cuisine reflects its ties to Black culture and African roots. According to Lewis-Bernard, soul food originated in the Deep South, which includes the states of Alabama, Georgia and Mississippi. “During the Transatlantic Slave Trade, enslaved African people were given meager food rations that were low in quality and nutritional value,” Lewis-Bernard said. “With these rations, enslaved people preserved African food traditions and adapted traditional recipes with the resources available. Over time, these recipes and techniques have become the soul food dishes we are familiar with today.” Some of those soul food staples include oxtail, which at one time came from an actual ox and now more commonly comes from beef cattle, along with fried chicken, smothered pork chops, fried catfish, mustard and collard greens, cabbage, black eyed peas and red beans and rice. “This was our everyday food,” Heights resident Corrine Campbell said. “I loved my grandmother’s fried chicken and collard greens. No one can make fried chicken like her.” Campbell spent most of her childhood in Mississippi before moving to Houston for college and then work. “I think soul food tends to be more fatty, salty, bigger portions,” Campbell said. “Well, really just more. You can’t go wrong with adding more seasoning, more anything to soul food.” Campbell doesn’t make soul food as often and she used to eat it, but when she does, she still calls her grandma for recipes. She said she’s
Photo from Facebook Esther Lewis-Bernard, foreground, owner of Esther’s Cajun Cafe & Soul Food and Esther’s Signature Dish, shows off her food along with some of her employees.
written most of them down, but there’s a few her grandma won’t give her, like her “famous” sweet potato pie. “Like all food it brings people together,” Campbell said. “But sitting down at a family reunion or any other family gathering with a plate of soul food not only connects us with each other, it connects us with our past. Because of that it will always be my
favorite food.” Soul food and Southern food are closely related. Both have a lot of the same types of dishes and recipes, and both are considered comfort food. But it’s soul food’s history that makes it its own unique cuisine. “This food genre, now associated with comfort and decadence, was borne out of struggle and survival,” Lewis-Bernard said.
Other than Esther’s on Yale, there’s not many places in the area that dish out soul food. Its sister concept is Esther’s Signature Dish, 1102 Pinemont Dr., which specializes in brunch and Cajun lunches. There is also Soul Taco, 1027 W. 19th St., a crossover concept that takes soul food staples and makes them into tacos. “I do wish there were more places nearby,” Campbell said, “but really
the best soul food is made at home.“ If someone venture to make soul food at home, Lewis-Bernard said that canned items just won’t get the best result. She suggests buying produce fresh from farmers markets because makes a difference in the taste of a dish. Follow us on social media @FromTheLeader
REVIEW:
Season your soul with dishes from Esther’s By Zarah Parker zarah@theleadernews.com
Soul food is like the more seasoned version of Southern food and with staples I’d never tried before -- specifically, the oxtail. A friend told me that if I was going to eat soul food and wanted to be adventurous, I needed to try oxtail. It was definitely an experience, and one that took some getting used to. However, I was glad I took the plunge to try the newto-me dish. When I ordered from Esther’s Cajun Café & Soul Food at 5204 Yale St. in Independence Heights, I got multiple dishes for me and my family to try. The oxtail came on a bed of rice with a side of cornbread, the smothered pork chops also came on a bed of rice with mustard greens and red beans on the side. With the fried chicken we got black eyed peas and a side of okra, sausage and shrimp. Oxtail isn’t pretty. It comes from the tail of cattle, and
its knobby appearance turns some people off. It’s fatty and tastes like beef, and while I’d probably compare it to short ribs, I think has a deeper, heartier flavor. The smothered pork chops came with two thick, bone-in chops covered in a gravy. The gravy on top was a thicker consistency than regular brown gravy and had hints of garlic and paprika. The chop was easy to slice through, but I find pork in general a little tougher to chew than other meats. The fried chicken came with three wings. Out of all the dishes, I could most tell a seasoning difference with the chicken. It was saltier and the breading had more seasoning mixed in it. I’m already a big fan of fried chicken, but this was the most-seasoned fried chicken I’ve tried. I really enjoyed it, especially since the chicken wasn’t dry. My favorite side was the mustard greens. Considered an herb, mustard greens have a peppery flavor. The sautéed side dish was soft without be-
For dessert, I got another staple, banana pudding. It was sweet and a little tangy. The vanilla wafers were piled on top and already softened. The pricing at Esther’s is reasonable — the most expensive thing on the menu is the oxtail, which is around $20 depending on if you plan to make it a combo or not. While Esther’s is on Yale, its sister concept, Esther’s Signature Dish, is at 1102 Pinemont Dr. and focuses on brunch and Cajun lunch options. Esther’s Cajun Café & Soul Food
Photo by Zarah Parker Pictured is a variety of dishes made to go from Esther’s Cajun Cafe & Soul Food, 5204 Yale St.
ing mushy. I’ve had kale and spinach before, which might not be exactly the same in taste, but they have similar textures. The mustard greens were cooked perfectly. The red beans had an earthy quality with hints of sweetness and the black eyed peas
were savory and left a nutty aftertaste. The okra, sausage and shrimp dish was mixed together in an orange sauce that tasted like tomato. I liked that the okra was soft with just a little bit of a crunch, but overall, I preferred the other sides. The cornbread was dense
Mico’s owners relishing in success By Lara Prakash For The Leader
Mico’s Hot Chicken was a long time in the making, but a dream that has become reality for Kimico and Chris Frydenlund. Kimico, 32, and Chris, 30, knew that they wanted to own their own business, and in 2019, the couple opened Mico’s Hot Chicken. Though she liked her previous job as a nurse, Kimico always loved the food industry and enjoys being a business owner. Still, proving herself as such remains an ongoing challenge. “When I’m at the restaurant and talk to visitors, they end up asking, ‘Do you work here?’ I say, ‘I’m Kimico, the owner,’” she said. “Normally their eyes bulge out of their head when they hear this because no one expects that a young Black woman is the creator of a successful and respectable establishment.” Mico’s, located at 1603 N. Durham Dr. in the Heights, is one of the many Black-owned restaurants around Hous-
Photo from Facebook Kimico Frydenlund is the proud co-owner of Mico’s Hot Chicken, located at 1603 N. Durham Dr. in the Heights.
ton. They have garnered more attention during the rise of the Black Lives Matter movement, which has gained momentum since the May 25 death of George Floyd, a Black man who grew up in Houston and died in police custody in Minnesota. But Kimico wants to remind customers that Mico’s Hot Chicken should be judged on the food quality and service it provides, not on the color of the owners’ skin. Though Mico’s has seen a rise in customers in recent months, Kimico said, “I am in the food industry to serve all people and I can only hope that the color of my skin doesn’t deter anyone from visiting our establishment.” Prior to founding the restaurant, which followed their food truck by the same name, the Frydenlunds operated a rolled ice cream food trailer. Kimico, a registered nurse for seven years, and Chris, a sports science major in college, then decided to jump into the deep end and open their own restaurant. Kimico said she “came across NashSee Mico’s, P. 2B
but had a soft top layer and was made a little sweet with sugar. The bread was a great companion to the main dishes, whether I ate it alone or dipped it in some of the gravy.
Address: 5204 Yale St. Hours: 11 a.m.–8 p.m. Monday–Saturday, 11 a.m.–7:30 p.m. Sunday Pricing: $5.59-$23.99 Kid-friendly: Yes Alcohol: No Healthy options: No Star of the show: Fried Chicken and mustard greens
Page 2B • Saturday, Sept. 19, 2020 • The Leader
Cooking soul food slowly comes with payoff Zarah Parker Managing Editor
Food tells a story. When we are eating, rarely are we thinking about where something originated from. We focus on filling our stomachs. Soul food in particular has a history tied to a dark part of American history. This cuisine was started by African slaves and sharecroppers who incorporated their native cuisines with the meager ingredients given to them. With its history, it’s not hard to see why it’s called “soul food.” As someone who love Southern food, I’ve long neglected trying soul food, which is similar in terms of ingredients, but is set a part because of its roots. I decided to try my hand at cooking a few soul food staples, though I’ll admit I probably didn’t do them justice. Not because of my lack of trying, but because cooking is not (yet) my forte. I’m working on it. A friend of mine sent me a list of common soul food items, including fried chicken, smothered pork chops, oxtails, fried catfish, neck bones and rice, hog maw, collard greens, cabbage, black eyed peas, po-
tato salad, red beans and rice, cornbread, sweet potato pie and banana pudding. I knew there were a few things on the list I wouldn’t be able to do, like neck bones and rice and hog maw, so I went for something I’m already slightly familiar with — the smothered pork chops. For the sides I decided to go for collard greens and cabbage. But when I brought my groceries home, the cabbage was missing from the bag, so I ended up only doing collard greens. And that turned out to be a good thing. The smothered pork chops and collard greens took me a few hours. The recipe I followed instructed me to buy pork chops with the bone in because it adds rich flavor to the gravy as it simmers. Salt, pepper, Cajun seasoning, paprika, oil, onion, garlic, butter, flour and water were also in the recipe. I seasoned the chops and browned them in the oil. I put them off to the side before adding onion and garlic to the hot oil. Once those cooked for a few minutes, I added a fourth of a cup of flour and butter to the pan. Once the flour was mixed in, I gradually added water. I put the chops into the gravy, covered them with a top and put them in the oven for 90 minutes. The collard greens required onion, chicken broth, water,
salt, pepper, jalapeno pepper and white distilled vinegar. I cooked the onions in a pot, then added minced garlic. I poured in the broth and let it boil for 20 minutes. Then I gradually added the collard greens, salt and pepper, jalapeno slices and vinegar before letting it all simmer for an hour and 10 minutes. All pretty simple. Just time consuming for me because I was cooking for six other people. When the pork chops were finishing, I took the top off to let the gravy thicken a little more. When I took them out of the oven, I was a little worried because the gravy wasn’t as dark as I expected it to be, but all worries went away when I tasted the pork chop. What surprised me most was the tenderness of the pork. I could cut through it with just the side of my fork. The gravy had a really great flavor, too. And my family, who aren’t always my number one fan when it comes to cooking, loved it. My nephew, who’s probably a pickier eater than I was as a kid, got seconds. The collard greens were a little bitter. My dad said I should have added bacon, but I liked them well enough. I think it’s because I’m used to eating kale, which can be a little bitter. Even though it felt like forever to make only two items,
Mico’s, from P. 1B ville hot chicken on Instagram and I was intrigued, personally, because I am a big fan of spicy food, but I’ve never heard of hot chicken before.” After looking into how that dish was becoming more popular, the Frydenlunds decided that Houston needed a Nashville hot chicken spot of its own. “Our business is everything to us now as I quit my job in order to start Mico’s,” Kimico said. With the COVID-19 pandemic putting a strain on local businesses, particularly restaurants, Kimico said she and Chris feel lucky that their restaurant is thriving during this uneasy time. They also are happy that the restaurant gives them flexibility in their family’s lives. “We are happy as a family to be in control of our lives and time,” Kimico said. “That
freedom we have was the goal and will always be the goal - to be able to be present with our three children and each other and live out our best lives.” With a wide range of cultures in Houston in general and the Heights in particular, Kimico is happy to see people unite over her food. Both Kimico and Chris feel proud to be an example and inspiration for the Black community. The Frydenlunds also hope that Black business owners get a fair shot to show the world what they have to offer. “There are countless Black men and women like myself who desire more, but don’t see many examples of someone who looks like them and achieves this level of success,” Kimico said. “It’s important for people to see what we did and say, ‘If they did it, I can do it, too.’ ”
Pictured are slow-cooked smothered pork chops with collard greens.
it actually encouraged me to keep cooking. Usually I’ll cook something and become discouraged because it didn’t come out exactly how I thought it would. I look forward to making more soul food.
AY Y D 1 NL O
Photo by Zarah Parker
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The Leader • Saturday, Sept. 19, 2020 • Page 3B
Tricks for giving pills to dogs strict dietary restrictions and have the time and patience to try out a few tricky foods in which to hide a pill, here are some of the most popular among dogs:
Dear Tabby, Our dog has recently been put on a daily medication. We are having trouble getting him to take the pill. Any advice on ways to get him to take his meds? Tough Pill to Swallow in Woodland Heights Dear Tough Pill, People often think of cats as being the hardest to “pill,” but oftentimes, dogs can be just as persnickety about taking their medications. Luckily, dogs are typically more readily agreeable to take a pill that is hidden in their food than cats are, so that might be your best course of action. The next step is to find a type of food that you can use to conceal the pill and trick your dog all at the same time. First thing’s first: Check with your vet about any dietary restrictions that your dog might have, as well as any food/drug interactions that might cause a stomach upset in your dog. Additionally, it is often ill-advised to crush a pill and put it in food, as some medications require that they stay whole until they enter the dog’s system. While a slice of cheese can work for some dogs for getting a pill down the hatch, many dogs are experts at unwrapping the pill in their mouth, eating the cheese, and spitting the pill out on the floor (smart buggers). So, if you don’t have any
Peanut butter Most dogs LOVE peanut butter, and its sticky consistency makes it a great substance to conceal a pill, keep your dog from eating around his pill and spitting the meds right out. A word of caution: check the ingredients of your peanut butter carefully and make sure that it doesn’t contain the artificial sweetener Xylitol, which is toxic and terribly dangerous for dogs. When in doubt, stick with all-natural, unsweetened peanut butter. Cream cheese Dairy is iffy for some dogs and with some medications, but if it’s safe for your dog in small amounts, cream cheese often appeals to even the most finicky pooches. The consistency--similar to peanut
butter--is great for concealing medications as well. Squirt cheese If you were alive in the 1980s, you might remember squirt cheese--the fluorescent orange “processed cheese food” that comes in a can. No judgement if squirt cheese is still a part of your diet, but it is also beloved by dogs and can be helpful in getting medications down, not to mention convenient in its delivery. Marshmallows Perhaps the most surprising on this list are marshmallows. As long as having a little sugar is safe for your dog, the spongy texture of a marshmallow is the perfect hiding spot for a pill and many dogs will gobble a marshmallow right up (while promptly asking for another.) Pieces of hot dog Similar to a marshmallow, the texture of a hot dog makes it the perfect vehicle for a pill. You might not want to give
Pet of the Week
your dog a whole hot dog, but a piece of hot dog will likely entice your pooch to take his meds like a good boy. Pill pockets If all else fails, consider purchasing specially-made “Pill Pockets” at your local pet supply store. These treats are designed to conceal a pill and are made from safe ingredients for your pet. In fact, they even make Pill Pockets for cats if you have a picky kitty who needs meds. A final thought: Some dogs are notorious for being fickle, so if one method of pilling your dog is working today, that doesn’t necessarily mean that it will work tomorrow. So, plan to be flexible and willing to try different methods for getting his medications down. If you repeatedly strike out, seek your vet’s advice on a different type of medication or alternate method for treating your dog’s condition.
Do you have a question for Tabby? Email her at deartabby questions@gmail.com.
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Page 4B • Saturday, Sept. 19, 2020 • The Leader
Neighbors: New Houstonian inspires community By Elizabeth Villarreal elizasgarden@outlook.com
On Sept. 11, Candlelight Estates neighbor Bianca Williams was driving with her children Savannah, Greyson and Caden in the car and saw something which made her stop and turn around. What she saw was striking and poignant: a firefighter dressed in full bunker gear in the 100-degree Houston heat, carrying an American flag and walking down the street. Williams stopped her car and asked her children to thank the firefighter for his tribute, which she knew instantly was in honor of the fallen first responders on Sept. 11, 2001. The firefighter walking down the street was Collin Stuart. Snapping a photo, Williams posted it to Facebook and the community quickly shared the inspirational photo of Stuart. Stuart was carrying out a “Tunnels to Towers” tribute which came about when New York firefighter Stephen Siller, just off duty that Sept. 11 morning and headed to play golf with his brothers, heard the news of the attacks on the World Trade Center. He drove back to his station, Squad 1, grabbed his gear, called his wife to say he would catch up with his brothers later, and drove his truck to the entrance of the Brooklyn Battery Tunnel. The tunnel was already closed for security purposes, so Siller began to hurry through the tunnel with 60 pounds of gear strapped to his back and raced on foot to the Twin Towers, where he eventually gave his life while saving others. Today, many first responders and Americans walk, run and climb flights of stairs as a “Tunnels to Towers” tribute to Siller and other first responder heroes. Learn more at https:// tunnel2towers.org/stephensstory/. Collin Stuart moved from Gulfport, Mississippi, to Houston in June to be closer to his brother and sister-inlaw, Laith and Neely Stuart, and their little daughter, Joyce. Already a firefighter and EMT in Gulfport, Collin is completing a stint at the Houston Fire Academy before becoming a Houston firefighter. Stuart said, “The walk was my own ‘Tunnels to Tower’ memorial, which is to honor the sacrifice of firefighter Stephen Siller. The walk is essentially a 5k walk and then finishing with 110
flights of stairs.” After walking 4 miles in the heat with all his gear on, Stuart next went straight to his gym, Steel Mill, and ground out 110 flights of stairs on a Stairmaster which took about 40 minutes. Excited to continue his career in Houston, be an involved uncle and be close to his family once again, Stuart said, “I’m just a simple firefighter who every year does a memorial in some way to remember and honor my fallen brothers and sisters who have passed in the line of duty.” Thank you, Collin, for making a difference and inspiring us. Happy birthday wishes go out to Greg Cain of Oak Forest! Greg celebrated his special day on Sept. 9. Sign Gypsies made it a special day! Wife Lucy said, “Greg is a great husband and father, especially in our
Contributed photo Collin Stuart, who recently moved to Houston, was seen walking around the Candlelight Estates neighborhood on Sept. 11 in full fireman’s gear to honor first responders.
blended family. He is wonderful with my sons Duncan and Zach.” September is a Fisher-Cain family birthday month: Greg
on the 9th, Lucy on the 20th, Duncan on the 25th and Ben on the 30th. The other kiddos in the family who are also certainly special (but don’t
have September birthdays) are Will, Molly and Zach. Greg, your Oak Forest neighbors wish you many happy returns of the day! Happy, happy birthday wishes go out to beautiful Joan Delaney of Shepherd Forest. Joan has just celebrated her 29th birthday for the third time and looks amazing! An active octogenarian, Joan is a true inspiration. She takes long walks, works in her yard, washes her car and is always on the go. Recently, she assisted Mattress Mac at Gallery Furniture serving food to those less fortunate and needing help during the COVID-19 crisis. Eating healthy, volunteerism, faith, an amazing work ethic – Joan is the real deal. A beloved neighbor by many in Shepherd Forest, she is much admired. Joan – I’m giving you an F! F for FANTASTIC!
Nestled in the heart of Oak Forest and Garden Oaks is the bright light of Spencer Law where our community’s own daughter Alison Spencer, attorney, mother, speaker and author, has written a book which via the excited chatter of neighbors promises to become a New York Times bestseller. Said to be a “daringly fun and insightful book … It’s a book of values and also red flags if you need a roadmap for mindful Dating Do’s & Don’ts, and she will keep you in stitches wondering, “Did that really happen to someone on a date?” A sneak peek at “Dating Rules by Divorce Lawyers” is available on Twitter, @SpencerTexasLaw. The BEST news is: Spencer’s book is available for pre-order right now and you can call to get your copy reserved. Congratulations, Alison!
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