Maybourne Magazine Winter/Spring 2023

WINTER 2023 | SPRING 2024

EXPERIENCE MORE IN 2024

California Dreaming

MARINA ABRAMOVIĆ

on art

RÉMI TESSIER

on design

TOM PARKER BOWLES

on food

SHOP ONLINE

SIMPLY THE BEST CASHMERE IN THE WORLD

SIMPLY THE BEST CASHMERE IN THE WORLD

SHOP ONLINE

DISCOVER THE NEW FLAGSHIP FRANCK NAMANI, LOCATED 38 AVENUE GEORGE V PARIS 8

Design by DUCCIO GRASSI Architects

THE “DRESSING ROOM CONCEPT” BY FRANCK NAMANI, A UNIQUE CONCEPT IN THE WORLD, IN A PRESTIGIOUS SHOWCASE DEDICATED TO BOTH MEN’S AND WOMEN’S ELEGANCE.

In Franck Namani’s dressing rooms, time comes to a standstill and you can fully experience the pleasure of being in contact with the world’s most beautiful materials.

You are welcomed into large yet cozy and home-like stunning lounges, equipped with a bar and quiet music, where you will enjoy the highest level of luxury service.

Menswear is uniquely organized in one size per room, elevating service quality and effortlessly enhancing the shopping journey.

Womenswear is thoughtfully arranged by color, showcasing the richness and versatility of Franck Namani’s exquisite collection.

SIMPLY THE BEST CASHMERE IN THE WORLD

The Spencer Twins wear Barcelona

RM UP-01 FERRARI Ultra-flat manual winding calibre 1.75 millimetres thin 45-hour power reserve (± 10%) Baseplate and bridges in grade 5 titanium Patented ultra-flat escapement Function selector Limited edition of 150 pieces

A Racing Machine On The Wrist

17

FROM THE DESK OF

ILLUSTRATION: CLYM EVERNDEN

T

here is no one thing that makes a hotel great. Rather, it’s a cocktail of many different components. The perfect location.

Warm yet discreet service. Intuitive staff on demand. Talented chefs, providing Michelin-level flair and comforting room service classics.

Perfect thread counts on the sheets, the most diverting art installations, the most fabulous flowers, the most intricate patisserie: on and on it goes, until a magic takes over that is so much more than the sum of its parts.

Perhaps, most significantly, this is where human connection comes in: our devoted staff are the reason why some of our visiting families have been coming for generations.

Maybourne has always set the standard for what a hotel should be, from a Georgian guesthouse on Brook Street almost 170 years ago to a collection of five of the finest hotels in the world. Indeed, at the prestigious World’s 50 Best Hotels ceremony held recently in London, Claridge’s and The Connaught were declared the two best hotels in the UK, and – despite its relative youth – The Maybourne Riviera was crowned the best hotel in France. The values of service, luxury and style are woven into the DNA of this historic brand.

But we do not rest on our laurels. Maybourne is preparing to take the next steps in our history and we now have elegant new branding that pays tribute to our heritage. We are opening our sixth hotel, The Emory, in Knightsbridge. The fourth to join our London collection, The Emory will be the capital’s first five-star, all-suite hotel, further elevating the experience that our guests expect. In addition, we are launching our game-changing wellbeing concept Surrenne, with the help of the biggest names in the industry. Finally, we have our eyes on some of the most exciting cities in the world and are looking forward to delivering extraordinary hospitality experiences across the globe. We cannot wait to raise a glass with you to share the next exciting phase of Maybourne’s evolution.

Maybourne CEO

Maybourne CEO

Contributors

19

CLARIDGE’S . THE CONNAUGHT . THE BERKELEY . THE MAYBOURNE BEVERLY HILLS . THE MAYBOURNE RIVIERA . THE EMORY

Dylan Jones

P.

is editor in chief of the Evening Standard and author of Loaded: The Life (and Afterlife) of the Velvet Underground (White Rabbit). He writes about LA’s musical legacy.

He loves the prose of Tom Wolfe and the wit of Tracey Emin and is excited about Jon Savage’s next book The Secret Public. His room service order is rotisserie chicken salad.

42

P.

P.

24

Ekow Eshun

is the curator of Like Paradise at Claridge’s ArtSpace and The Time Is Always Now: Artists Reframe The Black Figure at the National Gallery. He writes our postcard from London. He is excited about John Akomfrah representing Britain at the Venice Biennale, the paintings of Lynette Yiadom-Boakye and Octavia E Butler’s science fiction. For a cocktail he prefers a Far Afield (a non-alcoholic White Negroni) and his room service order is a fruit salad.

48

Deyan Sudjic DYLAN JONES COURTESY BRITISH GQ; EKOW ESHUN BY ZEINAB BATCHELOR; ANNA MURPHY COURTESY MITCHELL BEAZLEY; DEYAN SUDJIC BY MUHSIN AKGÜN; TOM PARKER BOWLES BY SAM BARKER; JIMI FAMUREWA BY NATASHA PSZENICKI

Anna Murphy

P.

is the editor of Anima magazine and author of Analogue: A Field Guide (Quarto). He interviews Rémi Tessier. He is planning a Terence Conran exhibition in Tokyo in 2024. His room service order is beef with noodles, preferably delivered by a robot butler, as he recently experienced in Ningbo, China.

is the fashion director of The Times and the author of Destination Fabulous: Finding Your Way to the Best You Yet (Mitchell Beazley).

She writes about Burberry’s new direction. She is a fan of female abstract expressionists Lee Krasner and Joan Mitchell, loves a Paloma and enjoys the miniature masterpieces of Claire Keegan. Her room service order is anything with truffles.

P.

94

78

Tom Parker Bowles

is a food critic and author. He celebrates the British cuisine at The Connaught Grill. He loves the paintings of Frank Auerbach and the beauty and brutality of Martin Amis’ prose.

He enjoys a Bloody Mary and his room service order is a cheese omelette.

Kate Mossman Laura Barton

is a writer for Uncut, a presenter for Radio 4 and the author of Sad Songs (Quercus).

She interviews DJ Iraina Mancini. She loves the androgynous folk of Gia Ford, enjoys a Margarita on the rocks and thinks CJ Hauser’s The Crane Wife is one of the most unflinching portraits of female experience. Her room service order is enough coffee for six people.

P.

88

is a senior writer at the New Statesman. She visits Handel Hendrix House. She loves Otto Dix’s portraits of the cabaret underworld, a Mint Julep on a hot southern night, the novels of Donna Tartt and the prospect of Gladiator 2. Her room service order is buffalo chicken and blue cheese dressing.

P.

46

P.

80

Jimi Famurewa

is an author, acclaimed podcast host and the winner of the 2023 Restaurant Writing Award. He interviews fellow MasterChef critic Grace Dent. He is excited about the return of House of the Dragon, breakdancing coming to the Paris Olympics and the second season of his awardnominated podcast Where’s Home Really? His room service order is a cheeseburger and chips, eaten while wearing a towelling robe.

A S P R E Y. C O M

THE 1781 HANDBAG COLLECTION THE CHAOS JE WELLERY COLLEC TION

3 6 B R U T O N S T R E E T , M AY F A I R , W 1 J 6 Q X T E L : + 4 4 2 0 7 4 9 3 6 7 6 7 9 6 4 1 S U N S E T B O U L E VA R D , B E V E R LY H I L L S C A 9 0 2 1 0 T E L : + 1 3 1 0 5 5 0 0 5 2 0

21

Contributors

CLARIDGE’S . THE CONNAUGHT . THE BERKELEY . THE MAYBOURNE BEVERLY HILLS . THE MAYBOURNE RIVIERA . THE EMORY

Georgina Cohen

is a director at Gagosian and art world tour-de-force. She gives us her advice for Frieze.

She is curating an exhibition with Mary McCartney at A Hug From The Art World in New York this autumn, is passionate about the work of her friends Annie Morris and Idris Khan, and is looking forward to Joel Mesler at David Kordansky Gallery in LA. Her room service order is a burger with fries.

P.

P.

40

Sarah Crompton,

P.

104

Ming Liu

is a regular contributor to HTSI, The New York Times and Vanity Fair.

She compiles a collection of fine jewellery. She loves the ‘beautifully grotesque’ portraits of Egon Schiele, Pharrell Williams’ menswear for Louis Vuitton, vodka Martinis and Cormac McCarthy’s fiction. Her room service order is the Japanese breakfast.

P.

74

GEORGINA COHEN BY JAMES SALTER; GRACIE KNIGHT BY BILLIE SCHEEPERS; DAVID ELLIS BY NATASHA PSZENICKI; SARAH CROMPTON COURTESY HERTFORD COLLEGE, OXFORD; SANDRAE LAWRENCE COURTESY DMBA

26

36

is an LA-based model, DJ and filmmaker. She stars in our cover shoot at The Maybourne Beverly Hills.

She loves a French 75, the historical fiction of Kristin Hannah and listening to Kenny Chesney.

Her next project is a fun, spaghetti-horror claymation short and her room service order is spaghetti pomodoro.

P.

84

David Ellis

is editor of the Evening Standard’s The Reveller. He experiences the new Claridge’s Restaurant. He loves the Korean abstract expressionist Wookkyung Choi, the prose of Raymond Carver and a De La Louisiane cocktail (a Manhattan with Benedictine). His room service order is Scotch with enough ice to sink the Titanic.

Jessica Bumpus

P.

P.

54 Gracie Knight

Mark C. O’Flaherty

is the journalist and photographer behind Narrative Thread: Conversations on Fashion Collections (Bloomsbury). He writes about New York. He loves Austin Osman Spare’s art and is looking forward to Yoko Ono at Tate Modern.

His room service order is a burger and a bottle of Californian chardonnay.

formerly The Daily Telegraph’s arts editor in chief, is now dance critic for The Observer and podcast host of As the Actress Said to the Critic. She interviews Marina Abramović. She loves Colm Tóibín’s fiction, whisky sours and choreographer Pam Tanowitz. Her room service order is a Caesar salad with extra anchovies.

is features director for Twin magazine and her work has appeared in The New York Times. She picks the best things to wear to the hottest events of the season. She loves the menswear of Stefan Cooke, Tom Howse’s pigeon pictures and Arto Paasilinna’s charming The Year of the Hare. Her room service order is a knickerbocker glory.

P.

90

Sandrae Lawrence

is editor of The Cocktail Lovers magazine and host of its podcast. She celebrates The Connaught Bar’s 15th anniversary. She loves the imaginary people paintings of Lynette Yiadom-Boakye, the defiant and dignified prose of Maya Angelou and a gin Martini served straight up.

Her room service order is a decadent breakfast.

DOWNTOWN MANHATTAN’S MOST LUXURIOUS ADDRESS

Incomparable Services and Amenities

Immediate Occupancy

onewallstreet.com

Contents

23

CLARIDGE’S . THE CONNAUGHT . THE BERKELEY . THE MAYBOURNE BEVERLY HILLS . THE MAYBOURNE RIVIERA . THE EMORY

Winter/Spring

COVER PHOTOGRAPH: BILLIE SCHEEPERS. THIS PAGE: LATEEF OKUNNU

P.

24 WITH LOVE Postcards from our local experts

54 C ALIFORNIA COOL The stylish side of Beverly Hills

26 WHAT TO PACK For elegant galas or packed stadia

64 SUITE DREAMS Designers pick their ideal rooms

30 TALKING HEADS Cultural advice from our friends

68 24 HOURS IN...

The Maybourne Riviera

36

THE ARTIST IS STILL PRESENT Marina Abramović at Claridge’s

74 REASONS TO LOVE NEW YORK Ten Big Apple recommendations

40

FRIEZE FRAME Art in London and LA

78 THE BEST OF BRITISH Inside The Connaught Grill

42

L A MUSIC SCENE Why California rocks

80

46

ROSSTOWN TRAFFIC C Handel and Hendrix unite

84 CLARIDGE’S RESTAURANT Mayfair’s finest reborn

P.

78

SEEKING COMFORT Grace Dent at The Berkeley

48 RÉMI TESSIER Creator of Claridge’s Penthouse

88

THE BLUE BAR DJ Iraina Mancini at The Berkeley

106 MENSWEAR Stephen Doig suits up

52

90

THE CONNAUGHT BAR Ago Perrone reflects on 15 years

108 WOMENSWEAR Jane McFarland on womenswear

94

BURBERRY’S NEW DIRECTION Daniel Lee’s transformation

110 BEAUTY NEWS Billie Bhatia’s lotions and potions

INSIDE THE EMORY The most exciting hotel of 2024

64

98 CHANEL TRAVELS How ‘Coco’ taught us to travel

114 CHECK OUT Updates from across Maybourne

102 WATCH NEWS Bill Prince on timepieces

116 PARTY PAGES Happenings great and small

104 JEWELLERY Ming Liu selects her favourites

120 DAVID DOWNTON DRAWS Dame Joan Collins

CLARIDGE’S Brook Street, London W1K 4HR +44 (0)20 7629 8860 claridges.co.uk

THE CONNAUGHT Carlos Place, London W1K 2AL +44 (0)20 7499 7070 the-connaught.co.uk

THE BERKELEY Wilton Place, London SW1X 7RL +44 (0)20 7235 6000 the-berkeley.co.uk

THE MAYBOURNE BEVERLY HILLS 225 N Canon Dr, Beverly Hills CA 90210 +1 310 860 7800 maybournebeverlyhills.com

THE MAYBOURNE RIVIERA 1551 Rte de la Turbie 06190, Roquebrune-Cap-Martin +33 4 93 37 50 00 maybourneriviera.com

THE EMORY Old Barrack Yard, Belgravia London, SW1X 7NP info@the-emory.co.uk the-emory.co.uk

Follow on Instagram: @claridgeshotel, @theconnaught, @the_berkeley, @themaybournebh, @themaybourneriviera, @theemoryhotel For reservations please call: +44 (0) 20 7107 8830. Email: reservations@maybourne.com. Visit: maybourne.com EDITOR Elle Blakeman DEPUTY EDITOR Andy Morris ART DIRECTORS Vanessa Grzywacz, Craig Baxter SUB-EDITOR Chris Bryans

ADVERTISING DIRECTOR Chris Wilson ADVERTISING EXECUTIVE James Fisher TO ADVERTISE hello@luux-media.com PARTNERSHIPS DIRECTOR Sophie Stoneham CONTRIBUTING EDITORS Andrew Barker, Luciana Bellini, Georgina Cohen, David Downton, Emma Victoria Reeve MAYBOURNE COMMUNICATIONS Paula Fitzherbert, Charlotte Alexander-Stace, Christina Norton

THE MAYBOURNE MAGAZINE IS PUBLISHED BIANNUALLY BY Brook Street Publishing, 71-75 Shelton Street, London WC2H 9JQ

24

With Love POSTCARDS FROM A FEW OF OUR FAVOURITE LOCALS

EKOW ESHUN LONDON

The curator and cultural commentator on design I’ve lived in London all my life but the streets I used to take for granted now fill me with a renewed sense of wonder. One of my favourite neighbourhoods for walking and looking is Clerkenwell, east London. The area dates back to the medieval period when the fabulously named monks of the Knights Hospitallers of St John of Jerusalem, who were involved in the Crusades, had their priory there. Today, Clerkenwell is a hub for the design world. Wander its narrow streets and you discover amazing residential projects by leading contemporary architects, such as 15 Clerkenwell Close, a fantastical six-storey apartment building. Its stark limestone

exoskeleton has 150-millionyear-old fossilised coral embedded in its craggy surface.

From Clerkenwell, it’s an easy walk to the brutalist splendour of the Barbican (barbican.org.uk), where Julianknxx, the talented Sierra Leonean poet, artist and filmmaker, is having his first institutional solo exhibition. Chorus in Rememory of Flight is a dazzling multiscreen film installation that explores themes of inheritance, loss and belonging.

I’m also excited by Tate Britain’s thoughtful and inspiring rehang of its collection (tate.org.uk), which foregrounds displays by ground-breaking artists like Aubrey Williams and Zineb Sedira alongside iconic works such as David Hockney’s A Bigger Splash and John Everett Millais’ Ophelia. Both Tate Britain and the National Portrait Gallery (npg.org.uk), which recently reopened after a three-year makeover,

From above: the architecture of 15 Clerkenwell Close; Rose English’s porcelain dancer; poet, artist and filmmaker Julianknxx

have used the opportunity of a rehang to address the historic gender imbalance in their collections, with around half the works in their contemporary galleries now by women. I’m particularly looking forward to visiting Tate Britain’s Women in Revolt!, a comprehensive survey of activist works by female artists from 1970 to 1990. And at the NPG, the faces of 45 imagined everywomen, as crafted by Tracey Emin, look out from the panels of the museum’s four-metre-high bronze entrance. It’s a great way to get reacquainted with the building.

Ekow Eshun’s Like Paradise is at Claridge’s ArtSpace until 5 December. claridges.co.uk

HOURIA NIATI, NO TO TORTURE (AFTER DELACROIX ‘WOMEN OF ALGIERS’) 1982-83 © HOURIA NIATI. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. COURTESY OF THE ARTIST; ROSE ENGLISH, STUDY FOR A DIVERTISSEMENT: PORCELAIN DANCER 1 © ROSE ENGLISH. COURTESY OF RICHARD SALTOUN GALLERY, LONDON AND ROME; JULIANKNXX BY HARRY DEADMAN; 15 CLERKENWELL CLOSE © TIM SOAR

Houria Niati’s No To Torture, her response to Delacroix and Picasso, on show at Tate Britain

25

ANDR EW BAR KER BEV ER LY HILLS

Our LA Editor makes the cultural case for his city People outside Los Angeles love to criticise the city for its apparent lack of culture. By and large, these are the same people who haven’t spent enough time here to visit LACMA (lacma.org), The Getty Center (getty.edu) and The Broad (thebroad.org).

It’s where musicians and entertainers from Stevie Nicks to Taylor Swift have drawn inspiration and where critically acclaimed theatrical productions regularly stop by. And we’ve not even mentioned the 100 years of Hollywood history yet – two years ago, the Academy Museum of Motion Pictures (academymuseum.org) opened its Renzo Piano-designed doors. Still in its infancy, it has already held exhibitions dedicated to Studio Ghibli, Pedro Almodóvar and Spike Lee (this winter sees Hollywoodland, an exhibition charting the founders of the studio system).

Frank Gehry’s Walt Disney Concert Hall; the original Hollywoodland sign

The city also happens to be the chosen home of Piano’s contemporary Frank Gehry, the original ‘starchitect’, who has blessed the city with some of his most interesting works, from the quirky Norton House on Venice Beach to the staggering Walt Disney Concert Hall downtown.

And while on design, let’s not forget LA is where the grandparents of mid-century modernism – the Eameses, Rudolph

Schindler and John Lautner, among others – made a mark on the world, their legacies tangible to this day.

But what about the mavericks working outside the mainstream?

A selection of these are celebrated this autumn at the Hammer Museum (hammer.ucla.edu), in its biennial Made in L.A. exhibition. Touring 200 studios in Greater Los Angeles, the team of curators whittled down their list to 39 artists, who were each chosen for their ability to create art that engages their own communities and helps to preserve tradition through interpretive mediums as diverse as sculpture, assemblage, painting, drawing, ceramics, performance and installation. An absolute must.

So welcome to LA: a cultural hub deserving of a higher reputation and a breeding ground for dreamers redefining art in all its remarkable forms.

Locals possess a unique privilege: the opportunity to unearth hidden gems that elude the casual traveller FEDER ICA BER ET TA THE FR ENCH R I VIER A

ADAM LATHAM; COURTESY MARGARET HERRICK LIBRARY; ALAMY; CHRISSIE MCCLATCHIE

Hauser & Wirth’s director on the joy of life in Monaco

Alain Delon and Romy Schneider in La Piscine; boats outside traditional fish restaurant U Luvassu

My first memory of the Riviera transports me back to a cherished moment from my childhood. I vividly recall watching La Piscine with Alain Delon, Romy Schneider and Jane Birkin.

After that, the Riviera became more than just a geographical location – it was cemented as a cultural landmark.

Spring on the French Riviera really resonates with me. The resurgence of life, the renewed excitement, the revival of culture. It’s during this time that I find joy in strolls along the promenades in the warming sun, immersed in cultural events and nature’s beauty.

Due to its unique landscape, the French Riviera has acted as a place of great inspiration for many artists throughout history. Claude Monet, Henri Matisse, Pablo Picasso and Francis Bacon have been captivated by the Mediterranean splendour. The area is constantly evolving and the vibrant contemporary scene is taking on a life of its own. High quality art is a hallmark of the area, so we are proud to mount an exhibition of work by Mark Bradford at Hauser & Wirth Monaco this year.

Essentials for the Riviera include breezy sundresses and linen attire; comfortable and elegant, perfectly suited to the region’s sophisticated atmosphere. A culinary must, on the other hand, is U Luvassu (ma-poissonnerie.mc), a seafood gem in Monaco. Eric Rinaldi is the last fisherman of Monaco and brings passion to his trade.

Locals possess a unique privilege: the opportunity to unearth hidden gems that often elude the casual traveller. As a resident of this remarkable locale, I’ve discovered that venturing into the villages in the hills offers a glimpse into authentic Provençal life.

Visit hauserwirth.com for upcoming exhibitions

Denim jacket, E.L.V.

Bag, Longchamp

Necklace, Roxanne First

Skirt, Moschino

Nat a sha L yonne

Dress, Ahluwalia

26

Ballet loafers, Tory Burch Shirt, Camilla and Marc

Jacket, Eleventy

Necklace, Gemella

Julia Fox

Bag, Saint Laurent at Browns

Platforms, Valentino at Matches

WHAT TO PACK FOR

John Waters: Pope of Trash

Jacket, Raey at Matches

Bomber jacket, Eleventy

John Waters redefined the style of indie cinema with a string of cult films, from Pink Flamingos to Hairspray, Cry-Baby and Serial Mom. The impact of his irreverent, kitsch, dark, funny and provocative films on the industry has been vast – as it has been on fashion. His personal style is notable, not least for that moustache, but it is his work as a writer and filmmaker that is celebrated in a retrospective, Pope of Trash, in LA. See scripts and memorabilia, costumes and props. Dress the part and lean into your inner Tracy Turnblad or Wade Walker. academymuseum.org

Earrings, Gemella

Debbie Har ry Top, Alessandra Rich at Browns

Dress, Oceanus at Browns

Menswear loafers, Manolo Blahnik

Necklace, Goossens

Hairband, Erdem

Sunglasses, Calvin Klein

COMPILED BY JESSICA BUMPUS. TAYLOR HILL/FILMMAGIC. KEVIN MAZUR/MG21/GETTY IMAGES FOR THE MET MUSEUM/VOGUE. MEERA FOX/GETTY IMAGES. GREG GORMAN. MARK VON HOLDEN/VARIETY VIA GETTY IMAGES. SAMIR HUSSEIN/WIREIMAGE. CINDY ORD/MG23/GETTY IMAGES FOR THE MET MUSEUM/VOGUE. RICARDO GOMES

Jumper, Erdem

Blazer, Favourbrook

Lipstick, Code8

Ring, Garrard T-shirt, Mother

Boots, Toral at Matches

Top, Jean Paul Gaultier at Browns

27

Earrings, Ara Vartanian

Versace bustier, at Browns Fingerless gloves, Paula Rowan

Safety pin earring, Anita Ko

Pearl necklace, EÉRA

Decorated jacket, Moschino

Abel Tes faye

Dress, Erdem

Pencil skirt, Veronica Beard

Pearl earrings, Boodles

WHAT TO PACK FOR

Madonna: The Celebration Tour Boots, Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini

Denim shirt, Balmain

F KA Twigs

Cross necklace, Goossens

Planning what to wear to Madonna’s world tour is likely to be just as much fun as attending the epic night itself, whether in London this autumn or LA in 2024. Featuring four decades of hits, there’s a feast of fashion eras from which to take your style cues for the event. There are the classic 1980s nods (the leather, the denim, the gloves, the bows, the bustiers); the 00s contemporary Western phase; a goth moment, or her general love for fashion now. And a splash of Jean Paul Gaultier, from any era, will go a long way. madonna.com

Bob T he Dra g Queen

Ankle boots, Tory Burch

Shoes, Loeffler Randall

Cross ring, Anita Ko

Corsage, Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini

28

Bag, Chloé

Ring, Anita Ko

Sunglasses, Linda Farrow + Bea Bongiasca at Net-A-Porter

Blouse, Longchamp

Mireill e Dar c

Bag, Longchamp Jacket, Eleventy

Trainers, Gucci at Matches

Trousers, Camilla and Marc

Ring, Boodles

Necklace, EÉRA

Trousers, Gabriela Hearst

Necklace, Michael Kors

WHAT TO PACK FOR

Bag, Connolly

Cap, Mulberry

Vic Elford

Shoes, Jimmy Choo Earrings, Cicada

Suitcase, Rimowa

Bag, Jimmy Choo

Fast cars, racing and rallies bring to mind a certain sort of glamour off the track for the 92nd edition of the Monte Carlo rally, a storied event held each year by the Automobile Club de Monaco. Think stealth luxury, which is both practical and pristine, on the dressing front. The start takes place in January after all, so there is a need for items that will keep you warm as well as looking good. Checks and racer stripes in bold colours will feel exhilarating to wear and can be found easily among knits and accessories. wrc.com

BERNARD CAHIER/GETTY IMAGES. RON GALELLA/GETTY IMAGES. MASSIMO BETTIOL/GETTY IMAGES

Jacket, Mother

Bracelet, Annoushka

The Monte Carlo Rally

Jacket, Zimmermann

30

ERIN O’CONNOR The Muse

‘My next stop will be to see the Sarah Lucas exhibition Happy Gas at Tate Britain. I’m also a huge fan and supporter of film director and actor Emerald Fennell and can’t wait to see her new film Saltburn in November. Other than that? Getting fit and aiming to be taken out dancing a lot more in 2024!’

31

RANKIN The Photographer

LAURA BAILEY The Model

‘London will always be my favourite city in the world, especially in springtime. I can’t wait for Francesca Woodman and Julia Margaret Cameron: Portraits to Dream at the National Portrait Gallery in March, plus a retrospective of Daido Moriyama at The Photographers’ Gallery. I’m tennis-mad and will be obsessed with the French Open, Queen’s and Wimbledon, as well as watching grand slam drama Challengers directed by Luca Guadagnino - ideally at the Curzon Mayfair, after a swim at Claridge’s Spa.’

‘Next spring, I am really looking forward to the spring/summer issue of Perfect magazine. I have it on very good authority that it will be a very special one. Either way, the magazine is always really extraordinary.’

OPPOSITE: ERIN O’CONNOR BY DARREN GERRISH IN CLARIDGE’S RESTAURANT. THIS PAGE: LAURA BAILEY COURTESY BRITISH VOGUE; RANKIN BY RANKIN; VANESSA KINGORI BY SANE SEVEN; ALEX JAMES BY REUBEN BASTIENNE-LEWIS. COMPILED BY: LUCIANA BELLINI AND PAULA FITZHERBERT

WHAT’S ON YOUR

Cultural Radar?

OUR FRIENDS AND FAMILY OPEN THEIR LITTLE BLACK BOOKS

ALEX JAMES The Bassist

‘La Bohème and Swan Lake at The Royal Opera House Covent Garden will be hot tickets. The auditorium there is my favourite room in the world. Everyone who enters is ennobled – it makes the rest of the world seem a bit ordinary. The Royal Academy in Piccadilly and the British Museum in Bloomsbury fill me with a similar sense of awe, whatever exhibitions they have on. But most of all I love just walking hither and thither around the West End, soaking it all in. You really can’t go wrong…’

VANESSA KINGORI The Publisher ‘2024 is set to be a really exciting year for me. Two key things I am looking forward to: I am excited to see the Parisians take on the Olympics, because in 2012, when it happened in London, it transformed the city. I believe the speed and efficiency of the Eurostar and all of the activity in Paris will no doubt have a positive impact on London, too.

I am also excited for my first book to be released in the latter part of 2024, which will keep me busy. All in all, an exciting year ahead!’

32

GSTAAD GUY The Satirist

‘Constance, The Gstaad Guy, is most excited about the Christmas cosiness in London – he loves nothing more than having an afternoon tea under the Chihuly chandelier by the Christmas tree at Claridge’s, before heading to Winter Wonderland in Hyde Park to have a chocolat chaud – he doesn’t go on the rides, but he likes the festive atmosphere. As he is fond of saying, “Those who do not have Christmas in their hearts will never find it under their trees.” Afterwards he’ll go for a shopping spree at Harrods to stock up on Loro Piana cashmere and Acqua di Parma perfumes for his loved ones, as well as Loro Piana’s Gift of Kings for himself. As for Colton, his crypto-enthusiast cousin, he will be going to Art Basel in Miami. You’ll then find him at The Maybourne Beverly Hills, preparing for Coachella, which takes several months of shopping prep. You’ll find him preparing for the season in his favourite stores, Maxfield and The Elder Statesman in West Hollywood, stocking up on tie-dye cashmere. He’ll also be enjoying his daily Alfred’s iced matcha latte with oat milk, Açai bowl from Backyard Bowls, Pilates at Forma with his favourite instructor Liana, and Omakase sushi dinner with friends at Matsuhisa in Beverly Hills.’

EVA ALEXANDRIDIS The Skincare Siren ‘The Chelsea Flower Show is a highlight: such a joyous occasion. I also love being inspired by the innovative garden design. I often wear one of my Erdem pieces – no designer makes me feel as special for an English summer.’

HELEN BROCKLEBANK ‘London’s best symphony orchestra, the LPO, has a captivating conductor in Edward Gardner and in February I can’t wait to see what he does with Elgar’s exquisitely poetic violin concerto.

Glyndebourne is a non-negotiable – it’s so luxurious and so brilliantly British and 2024’s programme is full of delights: I’m booking The Merry Widow, but I’m tempted by Mozart’s Die Zauberflöte. Whilst I picnic (I always buy it ready-made from Fortnums), I know I’ll enjoy Glyndebourne’s new Conrad Shawcross exhibition, too.’

GARY JANETTI The Writer

LAURENT DAGENAIS The Gourmet ‘Montreal is great in the summer. I will mostly be looking forward to the Canadian Grand Prix 2024, which will be held in June. This year I had a blast, most notably racing F1 driver Yuki Tsunoda in a sushi-rolling contest. I will also be looking forward to the Osheaga 2024 music festival. As I’m sure you know, I love my music, and Osheaga typically has a really diverse lineup. In the meantime, I’m busy getting ready for the launch of my cookbook, Always Hungry!’

‘I’m so excited to be coming to London this fall to see Sir Ian McKellen star in the West End in Frank and Percy. Any time you have an opportunity to see Ian McKellen on stage, take it! Along with an afternoon tea at Claridge’s, it will be the perfect London weekend.

In LA, my husband Brad Goreski and I can’t wait to see the Keith Haring exhibit Art Is For Everybody at The Broad.

Then dinner at Dante at The Maybourne Beverly Hills, which we love.’

GSTAAD GUY COURTESY @GSTAADGUY; EVA ALEXANDRIDIS BY JOSEP SERVETO; HELEN BROCKLEBANK COURTESY WALPOLE; GARY JANETTI BY BENJAMIN ASKINAS; LAURENT DAGENAIS BY SCOTT USHEROFF

The CEO

33

TRINNY WOODALL The Entrepreneur ‘I can’t wait to see The Motive and the Cue in January – it’s an amazing play that’s transferred from sell-out performances at the National Theatre to the Noël Coward Theatre in the West End. Sam Mendes is directing – he did The Lehman Trilog y, which I loved and is one of my favourite plays from the last few years. Also on the cultural agenda for 2024 are Taylor Swift’s London concerts with my daughter.’

RACHEL ZOE TRINNY WOODALL BY RICKY VIGIL M / JUSTIN E PALMER/GC IMAGES / GETTY IMAGES; BARBARA STURM COURTESY BARBARA STURM; RACHEL ZOE COURTESY RACHEL ZOE; CHEZ DEDE BY DARIA REINA

The Stylist

‘I’m already looking forward to coming to London in February – Claridge’s is where I feel at home. And I’m eagerly anticipating indulging in the captivating cultural offerings of the French Riviera in the spring. The South of France holds a special place in my heart.

I particularly look forward to the endless glamour of Festival de Cannes in May and the many memorable red-carpet moments.’

DR BARBARA STURM The Aesthetician ‘There’s lots coming up in 2024 that I’m incredibly excited about. We’ll be presenting our Anti-Inflammatory Lounge at Frieze LA in February and providing attendees with a much-needed moment of relaxation. And I’m looking forward to returning to London Fashion Week, where we’ve had a presence for the past few years, providing makeup artists and models with skincare and facial treatments backstage.’

ANDREA FEROLLA & DARIA REINA The Dynamic Duo from Chez Dede ‘Our cultural radar detects important signals for 2024 in Rome, where we live. The capital will celebrate Puccini’s centenary, along with the rest of Italy. Tosca, the passionate opera that is set just a few steps from our studio, will be staged in the Baths of Caracalla. Even in our travels, where we mix work and pleasure, 2024 looks promising. The doors will finally reopen at the most beautiful house in the world: Santo Sospir, in the South of France. Meeting again with Cocteau and Madeleine Castaing will definitely be a must.’

ART& CULTURE

PHOTOGRAPHED BY PRUDENCE CUMING ASSOCIATES LTD. © DAMIEN HIRST AND SCIENCE LTD. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED, DACS 2023

LONDON / CÔTE D’AZUR / BEVERLY HILLS

Thirty years after he shocked the Venice Biennale with Mother and Child (Divided), Damien Hirst is still full of surprises. See his first-ever stained-glass window above Claridge’s main staircase. As the artist says himself, ‘I wanted to create an optimistic kaleidoscope of hope and light and butterflies and I think the result speaks for itself.’ claridges.co.uk

36

THE WORLD’S LEADING PERFORMANCE ARTIST, MARINA ABRAMOVIĆ, REFLECTS ON 50 YEARS OF FEARLESSNESS AND CLARIDGE’S NEW ART PRIZE. SARAH CROMPTON SPEAKS TO HER

I

was very crazy,’ says Marina Abramović. ‘I really was ready to die for my art. And I discovered one thing: the public can kill you. If you give them the opportunity.’ And she laughs. A deep throaty roar that fills the room. She is talking about her 1974 work Rhythm 0, in which she stood for six hours alongside a table of 72 objects including chains, whips, and a pistol with a single bullet, and allowed visitors to do whatever they wanted with her. She still bears the scars. ‘At the beginning, people played, but they became more and more aggressive.’

The performance was one of those that began to bring this remarkable artist to world attention. She’d trained as a painter at the Academy of Fine Arts in her home city of Belgrade, but by the 1970s she was concentrating on conceptual and performance art, presenting everyday actions as repetitive rituals, tests of endurance and courage. Her body became her canvas. ‘I was 23, very young, very rebellious and angry. I was angry that performance art at the time was always seen in such a bad way, with criticism, as if it wasn’t art at all, as if it was kind of exhibitionism.’

Gradually, her commitment to her art turned her into a superstar.

She won the Golden Lion at the Venice Biennale in 1997 for Balkan Baroque, an intense piece of protest and atonement, in which she sat every day on a heap of bones, scrubbing them free of blood and gristle. She once stood for four minutes and 10 seconds opposite her lover Ulay, an arrow pointing directly at her heart as he held the bow; later, they walked the Great Wall of China from opposite ends as a formal act of separation.

Such acts of trust and stamina reached a culmination in 2010, when she performed The Artist Is Present at the Museum of Modern Art in New York, sitting in a chair at a table for eight hours a day for nearly three months, while 850,000 visitors queued for an opportunity to sit opposite her. For many, this act of meditative stillness was an almost transcendent experience. The work, which became the most popular in the museum’s history, is represented alongside Rhythm 0 in the opening room of a major exhibition of Abramović’s work at the Royal Academy in London. Together, they reveal the length and depth of her artistic development and thinking.

Artist IS STILL PRESENT Photography by

MARTIN SCHOELLER

CORBIS VIA GETTY IMAGES

THE

37

38

From top: Marina Abramović, The Hero, 2001; Marina Abramović, The Current, 2017; Marina Abramović, Four Crosses: The Evil (positive), 2019.

‘I really was ready to die for my art. And I discovered one thing: the public can kill you, if you give them the opportunity’

‘The two pieces are extremely important for me because they clearly show evolution,’ she says. ‘I made the first one when I was in my 20s, and the second when I was 65. I couldn’t have made it when I was 33, or 40, or 50. I needed the wisdom. I needed to understand how the mind works and to have the mental and physical concentration and willpower. You only have this when you are old. The two pieces have a connection, but they are also different. I like the pieces talking to each other.’ The exhibition, which covers five decades of work, is not a retrospective, she says. ‘It is really a journey through time and space.’

It is also the first solo show for a woman artist across the full space of the main galleries in the 255-year history of the RA. ‘So, it’s a huge responsibility. But also a pressure on me that it will be better than the men. Well, we will try our best,’ she says, with another huge laugh.

It marks the start of what is effectively a Marina Abramović season in London; ‘My schedule is insane.’ In October (4–8), the Marina Abramović Institute takes over the Southbank Centre. In November (3–11), English National Opera stages 7 Deaths of Maria Callas, the opera she devised and directed. She is also launching two books, A Visual Biography, written with Katya Tylevich, and Nomadic Journey and Spirit of Places, a personal collection of travel notes and sketches.

These are often written on the stationery of the hotels where she has stayed over the past 40 years. ‘As my career got better, the range of hotels got better,’ she says. ‘But I’m really nomadic, always travelling.

Hotels are so important, like a little security, like a self-universe. You immediately feel at home; the home you create wherever you are.

I can’t wait to stay at Claridge’s in the future. I hope they will have some stationery so I can make more drawings.’

The hotel is the sponsor of the Claridge’s Royal Academy Schools Art Prize, consisting of £30,000 (which includes a production fund) and a solo exhibition at the hotel’s ArtSpace. Abramović presented

39

Russell Tovey, Daria Blum and Marina Abramović at Claridge’s

PREVIOUS SPREAD: MARTIN SCHOELLER / AUGUST IMAGE. THIS SPREAD: JUAN NAHARRO G./CONTOUR BY GETTY IMAGES. ALL ARTWORK COURTESY OF THE MARINA ABRAMOVIĆ ARCHIVES. © MARINA ABRAMOVIĆ; DAVE BENETT / GETTY IMAGES; DARIA BLUM BY JULIAN BLUM

ROYAL APPROVAL

the inaugural award. ‘To me, the young generation is really important,’ she says. ‘It keeps me in contact with the spirit of today. I really support the young spirit. My generation has a tendency to say, “Oh, our time was best,” and this is not true.’ Abramović now spends a lot of her time working with younger artists. ‘I love teaching,’ she says.

In the Royal Academy exhibition, some of her seminal work will be ‘reperformed’ by specially trained young people, including The House with the Ocean View, which she created in 2002. She spent 12 days living in a ‘home’ of three open-sided spaces high on the walls of the Sean Kelly Gallery in New York, fasting and drinking only water; towels, fresh clothing and a metronome were her only other provisions. ‘It’s not an easy piece at all,’ she says.

As she looks back on five decades of work, she sees an ongoing purpose in all she has done. ‘I was not conscious of it in the beginning but, looking out from my age, everything had a reason. It looks like a straight line from my perspective now.’ Where does that straight line lead? ‘It is very simple. What I learnt is what it means being with mind and body here and now, and nowhere else. The past already happened, the future didn’t. Death can come at any second. The only reality we have is here and now. All my work is about that.’

This year brings her 77th birthday, but it also brought a brush with mortality, when she developed a clot on her lungs after a knee operation. ‘I was in a coma. It was unbelievable. After this, I am so happy,’ she says. ‘I am really concentrating on bringing this autumn in London all my positive energy. We are living in such a difficult time now and I always remember this very simple thing: during World War II, when all artists were being really miserable, Matisse was painting flowers. What you have to give to people is positivity and not negativity. To lift the spirit and not pull it down.’

Marina Abramović runs till January 2024. royalacademy.org.uk

The first winner of the Claridge’s Royal Academy Schools Art Prize is Daria Blum, announced by Hon RA Marina Abramović at the ceremony, held at Claridge’s on 26 September 2023. ‘I am passionate about supporting the next generation of artists, and The Claridge’s Royal Academy Schools Art Prize is the perfect platform for this,’ Abramović said. ‘I find it incredible that there is an art school on Piccadilly in the heart of London, one that does not charge its students fees and hasn’t done for 255 years.

Institutions like this are key to keeping art alive.’ Daria Blum was selected by judges Yinka Shonibare CBE, RA and Eva Rothschild RA. Eliza Bonham Carter, Royal Academy Schools director, explains, ‘Daria’s ambitious performance work brings us face-toface with everyday dramas, as told by her unlikeable, hypercritical and emotional performative character.’

The Royal Academy and Claridge’s are both committed to supporting artists at a time when the costs of artists’ studio spaces in London are now out of reach. Paul Jackson, Claridge’s general manager, said, ‘We see art as an important and integral part of who we are, adding to the rich, creative and diverse nature of the spirit of the hotel.’ claridges.co.uk

Guests at the announcement included Alison Myners, Michael Craig-Martin and Sally Tennant; judges Yinka Shonibare and Eva Rothschild

Daria Blum’s winning multimedia performance piece Not Something You Say, 2023

40

A work-in-progress in Mesler’s studio; Untitled (Hopes and Dreams) on the rooftop of The Maybourne Beverly Hills

Q&A

Joel Mesler

Where do you go for inspiration?

I’m from Los Angeles, so every nook and corner from Hill Street to Speedway is riddled with inspiration and trauma.

Which LA artists should we look out for in 2024?

My one and only favourite, for forever and ever, is the great Austyn Weiner.

Which gallery do you think everyone should visit in LA? David Kordansky Gallery!

Which LA publication should we be reading?

Cultured magazine.

How has the art scene in LA changed?

It’s professionalised quite a bit. It went from an artist city to a gallery city.

Having done [the artists’ expo] Art Contemporary for many years in a similar location, I was very impressed at what Frieze was able to do at the airport.

How does it feel to have your art at The Maybourne Beverly Hills?

To have such a significant work at such a special place in my hometown, that I can visit every time I am in LA, is a dream come true. What’s not to love?

Sitting in the pool on the roof is truly a gift!

Joel Mesler’s solo show opens at David Kordansky Gallery in LA in November.

Follow @joelmesler on Instagram

Frieze Frame

ALL YOU NEED TO KNOW AHEAD OF LONDON AND LA’S LEADING ART FAIRS

Beryl takes LA!

Fifteen years after her death, Beryl Cook – the wildly popular British painter – is finally getting her due.

Following a triumphant show at A Hug From The Art World in New York, her work will be shown at The Maybourne Beverly Hills for Frieze 2024. ahugfromtheartworld.com

THIS PAGE: COURTESY MARYAM EISLER; BFA; COURTESY OF A HUG FROM THE ART WORLD. COPYRIGHT © JOHN COOK 2023. OURBERYLCOOK.COM OPPOSITE: VIKRAM KUSHWAH; ANNIE MORRIS, STACK 8, MANGANESE VIOLET (2023); STEPHEN WHITE & CO, 2019; COURTESY MARYAM EISLER FOR LUX MAGAZINE, LUXMAG.COM

A hugely successful art dealer for two decades in New York, Mesler is now a creative on the other side of the canvas.

41

THE SPECIAL RELATIONSHIP

Idris Khan in the London studio he shares with wife Annie Morris; his work Film Strips

It is an extraordinary time for Birmingham-born, London-based artist Idris Khan, known for his vivid explorations of music, sound and colour. This autumn, at the Pitzhanger Manor & Gallery, he will display his work alongside that of his wife and fellow artist Annie Morris in an exhibition entitled When Loss Makes Melodies. Over 50 works will be on display, ranging from sculpture to embroidery and united by the underlying theme of finding joy in adversity. Then, in April 2024, Repeat After Me – the most comprehensive show of Khan’s work yet in North America – will go on display at the Milwaukee Art Museum. Charting his career from black and white photography to abstract mixed media, it will discuss the nature of memory and religious belief. And if you’re lucky enough to be staying in Maybourne’s newest hotel The Emory, look out for more of his work there…

When Loss Makes Melodies runs until 7 January 2024 pitzhanger.org.uk. Idris Khan: Repeat After Me opens 5 April 2024 mam.org

ASK THE EXPERT

GEORGINA COHEN Director at Gagosian

What is your advice for anyone attending Frieze?

Arrive early: when it comes to buying art, being first is everything! Do a day or two at the fair, but make sure to visit all the galleries, as it is a calmer, more enjoyable way of seeing the best of the rest.

Which unusual art location can you recommend in London?

Art on the underground. Richard Wright’s delicate artwork on the vast ceiling at the western ticket hall of the Elizabeth line station at Tottenham Court Road features an intricate geometric gold leaf pattern, hand-gilded by the artist.

What is the next big trend in art?

AI. Damien Hirst is creating amazing new works using this technology. Prepare to be dazzled!

What are your Instagram art mustfollows? @ahugfromtheartworld, @theartreporter, @larrys_list and always @archdigest.

Which London stores should everyone visiting Frieze check out?

The Gagosian Shop in Burlington Arcade – it runs a small exhibition programme as well as stocking lots of cool special editions, art publications and more.

Which critic does everyone want to impress in London?

Jackie Wullschläger, chief art critic of the Financial Times. Her reviews are well balanced but she also has balls!

Which book is everyone in the London art scene reading right now?

The Guest by Emma Cline; she apparently wrote it in Larry Gagosian's beach house.

What are you wearing for Frieze in London this year?

A Marfa Stance coat: light, versatile and doesn’t crease. A Bottega crossbody bag.

Jessica McCormack’s gypset earrings. And trainers: comfort is key.

42

43

California Here I Come

SIXTY YEARS A FTER THE BEAC H BOYS’ HALCY ‘SURFER GIRL’, ON LA REMAINS TH E MUSIC CAPITA L OF THE WORLD, AR GUES DYLAN JO NES

F

rom Laurel Canyon to The Viper Room to the Hollywood Bowl, Los Angeles’ music scene has proven irresistible for homegrown musicians and touring acts alike. And still the city’s music scene evolves. Everywhere you look, you see exciting new talent such as Gracie Abrams, Blondshell, Muna and Gabriels, while the massive impact of Daisy Jones & The Six (first a novel, then a Prime Video series) has encouraged a whole new generation to come to the city to wallow in the sound of the 1970s.

The LA music scene has always been a breeding ground for artists and bands who aspire to reach the top. It’s a place that lends itself to raw talent, ambition and the fostering of community among creatives. People come here to reinvent themselves, but also to see if the city’s musical heritage rubs off on them. The sidewalks are literally covered in stars, and that alone is a very exciting proposition. People have been doing it for years. In the same way that, over 150 years ago, manifest destiny drove American pioneers westward – as hordes of speculators, migrants and would-be moguls staked claim to anything and everything before them as they pressed onward to the Pacific Ocean – so during the late 1960s and early ’70s, Los Angeles became the geographic holy grail of American rock music. It didn’t matter if you were an aspiring singer-songwriter like Joni Mitchell or Neil Young, an eager bunch of double-denim guitar players like the Eagles or an old British blues band like Fleetwood Mac looking for rejuvenation, LA was where you came.

It’s still the same today, as the pilgrimage is made by performers and fans alike, many of whom want to spend their time here seeking out the haunts of those who came before them. They’ll visit the storied Hollywood Bowl – which is still the most iconic as well as most enjoyable music venue in town – and The Viper Room, Capitol Records, the gigantic Amoeba record store (at 6200 Hollywood Blvd) and, of course, the Troubadour, the monstrously famous venue in West Hollywood where Elton John made his US debut.

I’ve made these pilgrimages time and time again, and I always stay at the same place, The Maybourne Beverly Hills. This has long been my LA secret, as it’s not just one of the chicest hotels in the city, it’s also one of the most private. We hosted a party in LA each year with Elton John, and this is the hotel where we usually stayed while we were here. It meant we could explore Beverly Hills, dart off to Santa Monica, cruise Hollywood or journey downtown to the Staples Center. It’s often full of bold-face names, but, unlike other Hollywood hotels, it is very discreet.

My favourite place to visit is up in the Hollywood Hills, which was where everyone started to congregate in the mid-1960s.

That decade is still very much alive and kicking in Los Angeles. If you know where to look, that is. Laurel Canyon is often written about as the place that gave the world Crosby, Stills and Nash, that inspired Joni Mitchell’s Ladies of the Canyon and Danny Sugerman’s Wonderland Avenue, and that became the neighbourhood of benign

PREVIOUS SPREAD: KAMASI WASHINGTON BY SCOTT DUDELSON / GETTY IMAGES; STEVIE NICKS BY FIN COSTELLO / GETTY IMAGES; RED HOT CHILLI PEPPERS BY CLARA BALZARY / WARNER RECORDS; JONI MITCHELL COURTESY ABC PHOTO ARCHIVES; HOLLYWOOD BOWL SIGN BY HENRY DILTZ / CORBIS VIA GETTY IMAGES; CAST OF DAISY JONES & THE SIX BY PRIME VIDEO; BLONDSHELL BY MURIEL KNUDSON VIA GRANDSTAND HQ; DEBBIE HARRY BY BRAD ELTERMAN / FILMMAGIC VIA GETTY IMAGES; ELTON JOHN AND KIKI DEE BY BRAD ELTERMAN/FILMMAGIC VIA GETTY IMAGES; BOYGENIUS BY HARRISON WHITFORD, COURTESY CHUFFMEDIA; SNOOP DOGG BY ALEXANDER TAMARGO / GETTY IMAGES; DANIELLE HAIM OF HAIM BY EMMA MCINTYRE / TAS23 VIA GETTY IMAGES FOR TAS RIGHTS MANAGEMENT; BOB WELCH OF FLEETWOOD MAC BY ABC PHOTO ARCHIVES/DISNEY GENERAL ENTERTAINMENT CONTENT VIA GETTY IMAGES; JOHN LENNON AND HARRY NILSSON BY MICHAEL OCHS ARCHIVES / GETTY IMAGES; COURTNEY LOVE BY KE MAZUR/WIREIMAGE / GETTY IMAGES; BOB DYLAN BY BRAD ELTERMAN / FILMMAGIC / GETTY IMAGES; SUDAN ARCHIVES BY EDWIG HENSON / STONES THROW RECORDS; GRACIE ABRAMS BY MICHAEL TRAN / AFP VIA GETTY IMAGES; LA PHIL / ADAM LATHAM

44

THIS SPREAD: PATTI SMITH, IGGY POP AND JAMES WILLIAMSON BY SUZAN CARSON / MICHAEL OCHS ARCHIVE / GETTY IMAGES; BUFFALO SPRINGFIELD BY MICHAEL OCHS ARCHIVES/GETTY IMAGES; BEACH BOYS BY MICHAEL OCHS ARCHIVES/GETTY IMAGES; SZA BY JACOB WEBSTER/RCA; THE RAMONES BY BRAD ELTERMAN/FILMMAGIC VIA GETTY IMAGES; LEIF GARRETT WITH BRAD WHITFORD AND STEVEN TYLER BY BRAD ELTERMAN/FILMMAGIC / GETTY IMAGES; JACOB LUSK FROM GABRIELS BY SCOTT DUDELSON / GETTY IMAGES; SUNSET BY LARRY BROWNSTEIN / GETTY IMAGES; TROUBADOUR BY EMMA MCINTYRE/GETTY IMAGES FOR SIRIUSXM; AMOEBEA SIGN

BY AARONP / BAUER-GRIFFIN VIA GETTY IMAGES; JONI MITCHELL BY DICK DARRELL /TORONTO STAR / GETTY IMAGES; FLEETWOOD MAC BY MICHAEL OCHS ARCHIVES/GETTY IMAGES; BLONDIE BY BRIAN MCLAUGHLIN / MICHAEL OCHS ARCHIVES / GETTY IMAGES; GRACIE KNIGHT WITH HUMMINGBIRD ORIGINAL GIBSON GUITAR BY BILLIE SCHEEPERS; KEVIN WINTER/GETTY IMAGES

45

bad behaviour and clandestine misdemeanours. Everyone from Clara Bow and Christina Applegate to Frank Zappa has lived there and it retains a genuine local feel – which is an almost implausible ambition in LA. Despite the threat of gentrification, the Canyon has kept the funky, rainbow-coloured charm of the Love Generation; something that is most apparent when visiting the Canyon Country Store, still the neighbourhood social hub. Wedged along the twisting Laurel Canyon Boulevard in the Santa Monica Mountains between West Hollywood and the San Fernando Valley, this is the place immortalised by Jim Morrison (‘I see you live on Love Street / There’s this store where the creatures meet…’). The wooden-floored grocery shop/deli/liquor store/café is still the place to go for canyon dwellers with the munchies or for those in the industry who aren’t working and who need somewhere in the morning to stop for an espresso, having spent all night partying in the Valley. Here they’ll find Dandy Don’s ice cream, Dave’s Kombucha, bespoke sandwiches, hearts-ofpalm salads and the almost-but-not-quite-legendary decaf almond milk latte. Run out of Californian chardonnay, vegan chocolate chip cookies or patchouli incense? Look no further. The Country Store is also the site of the annual Photo Day each October, when the residents of the Canyon (not all of whom still wear bellbottoms and feathers) come together to have a group picture taken. The tradition dates back to the late 1980s; a celebration of the sort of

community spirit you don’t find anywhere else in LA. Over the hill, the eternal nature of Hollywood is in full effect. Here, in the village of bougainvillea and watery melodies, time stands still, no matter what you’re listening to. Oh, and if you want to listen to an album that sums up the latent feel and vibe of Los Angeles, you should skip Hotel California by the Eagles and instead check out Fleetwood Mac, the 1975 album that reintroduced the British blues band to an entirely new generation. It’s really a concept album whose concept is Los Angeles, as never has a record sounded so Californian, so sumptuous, so golden. Honestly, you almost expected the album to come with a pair of sunglasses and a poolside ice bucket. And the perfect place to listen? You guessed it: on the roof of The Maybourne Beverly Hills, sipping a suitably strong cocktail from Dante and watching the Californian sun set behind Rodeo Drive. That’s where I’m imagining myself right now, with an unlimited amount of carefully curated LA tunes, casually planning my next trip to the coast, mentally cruising along Sunset Boulevard listening to the likes of ‘Rhiannon‘, ‘Over My Head’ and ’Say You Love Me’. Wow, now that’s the quintessential LA experience.

For advice on the latest concerts and best available seating at the Hollywood Bowl, please contact the concierge team at The Maybourne Beverly Hills. maybournebeverlyhills.com

47

Crosstown TRAFFIC

JIMI HENDRIX AND GEORGE FRIDERIC HANDEL BOTH LIVED A FEW DOORS DOWN FROM CLARIDGE’S, DISCOVERS KATE MOSSMAN

OPPOSITE: BARRIE WENTZELL, COURTESY HANDEL HENDRIX HOUSE. THIS PAGE: MARCIN ROGOZINSKI / ALAMY; MICHAEL BOWLES; LINDA SCUIZZATO; G.F. HANDEL BY THOMAS HUDSON LEBRECHT MUSIC ARTS/BRIDGEMAN IMAGES. ALL COURTESY HANDEL HENDRIX HOUSE

I

magine the sound of a Fender Strat, or a baroque soprano, funnelling down Lancashire Court, which veers off west of New Bond Street, mere yards from Claridge’s. The pair of 18th-century townhouses at numbers 25 and 23 Brook Street, open to the public again after major expansion, were home to Europe’s finest composer and the greatest American guitarist that ever lived. Jimi Hendrix was tickled when he saw the plaque on the Handel House next door to the little flat that his girlfriend Kathy Etchingham had found for the pair in the summer of 1968. He didn’t know anything about the German-born composer, who had lived next door more than 200 years earlier, though he dug a bit of Bach: he went out and bought Messiah at One Stop Records on South Molton Street.

Access to the home of any legendary artist is a peculiar thrill. Handel Hendrix House presents the domestic face of something otherworldly: exploring the home comforts and ordinary paraphernalia that aid the process of creative genius. Here is the white wooden cupboard where Hendrix stored his drawings and songs-in-progress. Here is the Georgian kitchen where George Frideric Handel, a famous glutton, had his meals prepared (for pudding, he ordered out).

Hendrix, who had been thrown out of the flat he shared with his British manager Chas Chandler, was turned away from a few potential lodgings because no one wanted a rock star living next door. At Brook Street, which cost him £30 per week, he had no domestic neighbours to bother and played his Lowther speakers so loud he frequently blew out the cones. His nine months in this cosy, eminently liveable flat spanned a steady increase in his fame: his two phone lines never stopped ringing, and there was a constant passage of groovy friends up to the third-floor flat. As one NME journalist wrote in 1969: ‘Up the creaking stairs, past the accommodation agency, up the stairs again, then to a hardboard door in the gloom…’

Handel was the rock star of his day: in an attempt to fit more people into the premiere of Messiah, ladies were asked not to wear their crinoline hoops, and men to forgo their

swords. He wrote most of his major works in these elegant blue rooms, now refurbished with contemporary furniture, organs, harpsichords and spinets, including Zadok the Priest, for the coronation of George II – later heard at the crowning of Charles III. At Brook Street, two centuries apart, two musical immigrants claimed a little bit of London and came into their own. If you were a major composer in Handel’s time, you didn’t have your own place – you lived with your patron. It was remarkable that he got his hands on the lease of number 25, a new build in 1723, and stayed there for 36 years.

Hendrix had grown up in boarding houses around Seattle and even spent time in foster care; he later remarked that Brook Street was ‘my first real home of my own’. He constantly changed the colourful draperies around the bed, buying the fabrics from John Lewis on Oxford Street and spending ages discussing his choices with the staff.

While his guitar playing may have intimidated the leading lights of the British blues explosion, it was here that he played Monopoly, drank tea and watched Coronation Street. Eerily, his oval-shaped mirror is still on the wall. Stand in front of it and imagine Jimi smiling back at you, in a heady fug of smoke and music, in the days just before his professional life ran out of control.

Book tickets in advance for Handel Hendrix House at handelhendrix.org

A short walk from Claridge’s and The Connaught, Handel Hendrix House contains priceless musical artefacts

48

Craft Work

RÉMI TESSIER IS THE YACHT AND PRIVATE JET SPECIALIST BEHIND THE PENTHOUSE AT CLARIDGE’S. DEYAN SUDJIC MEETS HIM

49

50

R

RÉMI TESSIER BY MARK SEELEN. ARTWORKS © DAMIEN HIRST AND SCIENCE LTD. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED, DACS 2023

Rémi Tessier, the designer behind The Penthouse at Claridge's; below: the lounge features art by Damien Hirst

émi Tessier spent five years learning to be a cabinet maker as an apprentice member of the Compagnons du Devoir, the ancient organisation set up to pass on the techniques needed to build the cathedrals of medieval France, which he joined aged just 15. He travelled from workshop to workshop around the country, living an almost monastic existence in communal houses owned by the Compagnons. When he set up his own studio in 1988, he closed his toolbox for good. Workwear these days is a pair of white jeans and an unassuming Loro Piana jacket rather than a carpenter’s overalls. But it is his experience as a maker that has given Tessier an unusual and wide-ranging set of skills. An ability to get difficult things done while making them look easy is perhaps the most important. That, and the charm needed to get along with the demanding but interesting people that he works for.

He has put those skills to work on projects as large as fitting out a Boeing 787 for a private client, and as diminutive as the patisserie on the ground floor of The Berkeley for Cédric Grolet (Tessier took inspiration for the latter from a Formula 1 pit-stop). He is currently working on 30 projects worldwide, using his 15-strong team in Paris, together with local artisans who specialise in particular fields. He designed Larry Gagosian’s new gallery in Paris, curated Damien Hirst’s summer 2023 exhibition Where the Land Meets the Sea at Phillips in London and has an international reputation as a yacht designer. ‘I feel so lucky to have had that experience as a cabinet maker. I learned everything there, especially that I really enjoy the execution process.

I always want to deliver the promise, I love finding a way through all the difficulties.'

Few things in his career have been more difficult than the newly completed rooftop villa – penthouse does not do it justice - that he designed that seems to float above Claridge’s. It is the product of a six-year building campaign that had to be undertaken without the use of power tools to ensure that guests on the floors below were not disturbed. ‘The whole idea is to bring people up on the roof of this iconic building and discover something they

51

Clockwise from top left: spectacular views of London; the piano pavilion; one of four bedrooms

stereotypical luxury pieces, the majority of items in the penthouse are specially made – including a circular sofa that rotates – while the rest are sourced from Gio Ponti, Hans Wegner or Tessier’s own collection.

Tessier doesn’t have a signature: each project is different. ‘Every day I wake up and start a new page. I start from a blank. It can be reassuring to have a kind of frame for your work, but I never like to do the same thing twice. I like to think that I have no style, but that I have style. When you jump into the void, like that famous photograph of the artist Yves Klein leaping out of a window, if you don’t get scared, it’s exciting.’

For Tessier, it is not enough for a design to be well made: it needs an idea to underpin it. In the case of the Claridge's project, that idea don’t expect.’ Among the many surprises is Andrew Ewing’s was to introduce a variety of work from Damien Hirst. The two had large-scale water installation and an unrestricted view of the been friends long enough for the artist to say yes immediately when capital. ‘In The Penthouse, there’s nobody above you. Skylines Tessier asked to borrow 75 works for the next three years. He chose make a big difference. They make the space special for ever.’ pieces from every period of Hirst’s career, from pill cabinets to cherry Paying respectful tribute to Jean Prouvé, Anish Kapoor and Jean blossom paintings and ecstatic gold classical figures, some sitting on Royère, Tessier set about creating a project that lives up to a hotel he shelves and beside tables. ‘Damien told me, “I will be pleased to have describes as ‘a dream, a legend, an icon’. He designed an epic fireplace artwork as objects that people can touch.” That is very unusual, very using Iranian green onyx. Like a mystery clock, it has a void where casual. The art is there without it ever being too much or in your face.’ you would expect smoke to flow. If it was going to make itself felt ‘I love all Rémi’s designs and he designed my apartment and in the enormous space, it would have to have a certain scale. ‘They studio in London,’ says Hirst. ’He has the most amazing sensibility told me, “It’s impossible! Just forget it! It’s too heavy.” But I want to of any architect or designer I have worked with and it’s a joy to work do something which has not been done before. If you want to do with him. I just let him have the artworks he wants and he always something truly exclusive, it doesn’t exist yet.’ He clearly enjoys the places them and makes them look phenomenal. He’s the real deal.’ fact that guests will be blissfully unaware of the design challenges Tessier's work takes him all over the world – does he ever get time he faced. ‘When it’s finished, people always say “Rémi! It looks so off? ‘I am travelling all the time now, and simple.” Nobody will understand how there is a flow and quantity of things to deal hard it was. That is the beauty of a secret.’ with. When I was single at 40, I was much The result is a refined haven, nine floors more stressed than I am now with nine up. ‘Putting a suite like this together is a kids and work everywhere in the world. combination of a lot of detail. But it is also I feel much more relaxed. I try to make it very simple: if you want to feel good and fun for everybody.' calm, it needs to be easy to live in, not For details on The Penthouse at Claridge's, too complex. You have to be able to feel visit claridges.co.uk and watch 'The Mayfair comfortable whoever you are, but to feel Hotel Megabuild' on BBC iPlayer in a different world.’ Looking to avoid any Damien Hirst

‘Rémi has the most amazing sensibility of any architect or designer I have worked with’

52

The Penthouse is the vision of designers Rigby & Rigby. Its floor-toceiling windows allow vast amounts of natural light and sensational London views, while its master bedroom and terrace – which spans the entire width of the hotel – face the unobstructed splendour of Hyde Park and the city skyline.

The rooftop of the hotel features dramatic design, a fully retractable glass roof and staggering 360-degree views of the capital.

Effortlessly refined, it will be a private retreat in which to enjoy drinks and cigars.

The Emory’s logo depicts Richard Rogers’ steel sails that stand on top of the hotel – a signature feature of this modern architectural masterpiece.

The Emory believes the truest luxury is time well spent.

The hotel will reflect this with a focus on the art of Haute Horologerie, offering guests unheard- of access to the world’s leading watch experts and collectors, and curating exclusive horological experiences.

The ground floor of The Emory will see superstar French chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten bring his famed abc kitchen, abcV and abc cocina from New York to London for the very first time, as an all-in-one standout restaurant.

Expect a menu of vibrant fusion cuisine from this US legend.

Concealed beneath the hotel is Surrenne, Maybourne’s new wellbeing members club featuring a magnesium pool, spa, gym and longevity suites. Guests checking into The Emory automatically become members throughout their stay, accessing this groundbreaking confluence of health, science and relaxation.

Instead of entering via the usual revolving front door, guests will arrive at The Emory by the cobblestoned Old Barrack Yard – a storied Belgravia address – to find a discreet entrance to The Emory. Guests will be whisked upstairs for complete privacy and an in-suite check-in.

The hotel has been designed by the late Richard Rogers and Ivan Harbour of distinguished architectural practice RSHP. One of the trademarks of Rogers’ work was his signature use of bold colour: guests can identify this in the pink staircase.

53 The 61 suites of The Emory have been created by a stellar cast of international designers including Rigby & Rigby, André Fu, Patricia Urquiola, Pierre-Yves Rochon and Champalimaud Design.

Each has interpreted the brief of quiet, elevated luxury in their own unique and contemporary way.

INSIDE

Emory THE

RÉMI TESSIER IS DESIGNING THE ROOFTOP AND RESTAURANT OF MAYBOURNE’S NEW HOTEL Illustration by

CASSANDRE MONTORIOL

C

‘

Every weekday, the Household Cavalry Mounted Regiment rides past The Emory from Hyde Park Barracks to Buckingham Palace.

THE EMORY WILL OPEN SPRING 2024. THE-EMORY.CO.UK

reating something within Richard Rogers’ architecture is a one-of-a-kind opportunity.

The Emory is his first hotel in the capital and his last project in the UK. I’m superrespectful – I admire him as a master architect and I don’t feel like I am in the same league. But I am always trying to challenge myself. It will be so special. It has to be!

With each project, the vision is always different. For instance, the art is a very important feature to make the place feel special, but also alive. When you are in a traditional or a historical building, you already have a layer from the past, which you can either use or throw in the trash. But when you start from scratch on a contemporary building, you need to create that presence. Art brings an extra layer of spirit and feeling and I wanted to create something timeless.

I understand the level of excellence the guests expect.

My target is always to try to bring the level of quality that you have in a private jet or a yacht for residents. The execution is what makes the place magical. In a sailing boat, you have to bring luxury to a space the size of a shoebox. But with a project like this, it’s gigantic. It’s not really about the new gadgets or gimmicks on offer.

It’s more about the feeling of wellbeing, the sense of place. To come somewhere where you are transported.

I always say, “If you do the best thing, the best people will come to you.” I started working with Jean-Georges Vongerichten on designs for abc kitchen and The Emory Bar. He’s a top-notch guy – very sharp, very cool and he started from scratch, like me. abc kitchen will be somewhere people eat, drink and feel cosy even with glass all around and exposed architectural structures.

The constraints can bring the magic if turned the right way. For instance, the rooftop is two glass boxes, with a bar in one and a cigar room in another. You want to enjoy the view but you don’t want to get bothered by the sun or the noise if it is raining... and what do you do with the cigar smoke? The engineer originally said we should do a duct like the Centre Pompidou – but that’s a museum not a bar! We are going to use a revolutionary engineering process with an air duct shaped like a doughnut on each side to filter the air.

For me, the challenge in The Emory is to create somewhere that you haven’t seen anywhere else using natural materials. So I’m bringing warm candlelight, very much like you’d find in a London club. Not a traditional private members’ club... but one that is open especially for our guests.’

54

California Cool TAKE IN THE BOLD SHADES, BRIGHT SUNSHINE AND EXTRAORDINARY VISTAS OF THE MAYBOURNE BEVERLY HILLS Photography by

BILLIE SCHEEPERS

Styling by

NICKY YATES

55

56

WORDS: ANDREW BARKER

I

n California… I start using brighter colours; I paint broader,' noted the brilliant David Hockney. Easing into the pool atop The Maybourne Beverly Hills, the breathtaking views of the Hollywood Hills ahead of you, is to star in one’s very own Hockney painting. This, after all, is the place where the master pop artist conjured his ‘Splash’ series in the 1960s, capturing the essence of the Los Angeles he loved — a town of abounding artistry where the palms sway high, the vintage cars glide by and the living is easy-breezy.

More than a half-century later, little has changed.

Somehow, the clocks tick slower here than in other cities. An altogether different pace, where work and leisure, wellness and pleasure blissfully blur. The world's top tastemakers and style mavens have followed, to free their minds and fuel their creativity.

Lunching at The Terrace restaurant at The Maybourne Beverly Hills, you might happen upon an agent deftly dealmaking, or an artist celebrating a monumental sale – but you’ll never know for sure.

Long languid lunches turn into afternoon drinks by the pool, a coffee overlooking the sun-dappled fountain, or a drive through your own picturesque runway of palm trees. With The Maybourne Beverly Hills as your base, LA is nothing if not charismatic.

And as you close the day, perhaps at Dante Beverly Hills — famous for its assiduously stirred Martinis and Negronis — the Hollywood sign and the Griffith Observatory stare back in appreciation as a celestial golden shroud descends on Beverly Hills.

The dusk drapes the San Gabriel mountains in a purple haze and you’ll see why so many have been drawn to this place. As Hockney said, ‘The world’s most beautiful city is here – LA… You must come.’

Book your stay at maybournebeverlyhills.com.

57

This page: swimsuit, Zimmermann; sunglasses, Miu Miu; lilo, Oliver James Lilos Previous page: dress, Valentino

58

This page: bikini, Nou Nou; sunhat, Sensi Sensi Opposite page: trousers and top, Proenza Schouler

59

60

61

This page: dress, Markarian; shoes, Miu Miu; sunglasses, Lanvin Opposite page, clockwise from top right: dress, The Quaintrelle; necklace, Alighieri. White dress, Emilia Wickstead.

Pink dress, Emilia Wickstead; shoes, Gianvito Rossi

62

63

This page: top and skirt, Magda Butrym; shoes, Izie; sunglasses, Cutler & Gross Opposite page: dress, Valentino; shoes, Gianvito Rossi Model: Gracie Knight at Photogenics Media Makeup: James Molloy.

Hair: Coleman Morris.

Stylist's assistant: Sheena Annikki Templeton 1964 Austin-Healey 3000 BJ8 convertible courtesy Beverly Hills Car Club beverlyhillscarclub.com Gibson Hummingbird Original in Heritage Cherry Sunburst courtesy Gibson gibson.com

64

IN YO U R

Dreams

OVERSIZED BEDS DEMAND DECADENT NIGHTWEAR. THE FINEST PYJAMA DESIGNERS TRY A MAYBOURNE SUITE

Molly Goddard

THE COFOUNDER OF DESMOND & DEMPSEY CHECKS INTO THE AZUR SUITE AT THE MAYBOURNE RIVIERA

What do you like about The Maybourne Riviera?

The water. Seeing the sea automatically transports you to a different place. The sun-drenched rooms, thanks to the huge windows, light up the entire hotel so it’s flooded in a golden light.

What excites you about a suite?

Fresh, crisp sheets. And a deep mattress and bath to sink into. A hotel is a real luxury to me. It’s a time to savour. Room service? Yes please!

Which PJs have you packed?

Our linen Night bloom nightie in black and white from the new Art of the Night collection.

And an eye mask!

Drunk Elephant C-Firma serum for the mornings. And always a body oil from travels in Europe – complete with local botanicals.

Which album are you streaming?

This is tough. I always turn on the radio.

I like the chatter, and hearing the news.

What's your cocktail order?

It depends on my mood. A bottle of something natural and orange always hits the spot.

Night bloom print linen

Which book is on the nightie, Desmond & night stand?

Dempsey Walking with Lions by Ayelet Gundar-Goshen. And probably a pile of three or four more that I plan to get to.

What luggage are you using?

I love a tote bag that I can throw anything into and leave room for more. I am always collecting things on my travels.

What's in your washbag?

Susanne Kaufmann Cleansing Gel, which is so thick that it feels like honey, and

And room service order?

French fries. Lots of them.

Which flowers would you love to find?

Whatever is seasonal. maybourneriviera.com

Right: C-Firma serum, Drunk Elephant. Cleansing Gel, Susanne Kaufmann.

Below: eye mask, Desmond & Dempsey

The Azur Suite at The Maybourne Riviera

66

Stephen Murphy THE OWNER OF BUDD LONDON CHECKS INTO THE SUTHERLAND SUITE AT THE CONNAUGHT

What do you like about The Connaught?

The hotel holds a lot of memories for me, of people and great meals. Its charm and elegance remain perfectly intact and the food is at the very top of what London has to offer – the pastry chef is a culinary genius. WM Brown I also love the cigar bar, which Cocktail is ideal for a smoky chat and a Stripe Tailored whisky (I thoroughly recomPyjamas, mend Redbreast 21 Year Old). Budd London

What album are you streaming?

I would stream my wife Suzy’s playlist on Spotify (Suzy Murphy, the artist behind The 2022 Connaught Christmas tree), as she has the best taste in music.

Room service order?

Terribly boring: soup and a salad, and a glass of red. I like to keep it light.

Which flowers would you love to see on your arrival?

English-grown flowers.

the-connaught.co.uk

What pyjamas have you packed?

Our WM Brown Cocktail pyjamas, which feel and look decadent, perfect for The Sutherland Suite. We made them in collaboration with iconic mill Thomas Mason and tastemaker Matt Hranek of WM Brown. Matt is a big Martini drinker and the cocktail served as the inspiration.

What luggage are you using?

I need a wheeled bag if I'm away for more than three days. Tusting made me a replica of one they make for Aston Martin.

Top and left: The Sutherland Suite at The Connaught

a drink and my book of choice – preferably with a great view. I’m also a bath obsessive!

What pyjamas are you bringing?

The Casablanca Pablo from my Azure collection. The light silk crêpe de chine is perfect for the LA weather and this print sits well with the overall mood of the hotel.

Which book is on the nightstand?

Wilding by Isabella Tree.

What luggage are you using?

My vintage Gucci Diana tote.

What's in your washbag?

Sarah Chapman Skincare and Estée Lauder's Advanced Night Repair serum. I would also take my Aerin hand cream and an Olivia von Halle eye mask.

Olivia von Halle CHECKS INTO THE HOLLYWOOD SUITE AT THE MAYBOURNE BEVERLY HILLS

Top and left: The Hollywood Suite at The Maybourne Beverly Hills. Above from left: hand cream, Aerin; eye mask, Olivia von Halle

ADDITIONAL IMAGES: SHUTTERSTOCK

Casablanca

What do you like about The Which music would you Pablo silk crêpe de Chine Maybourne Beverly Hills? stream and why? pyjamas, Olivia It is opulent and sophisticated I always love classic disco! I Can’t von Halle while feeling young and playful. I Go For That (No Can Do) by Hall & also love the stunning rooftop pool, with Oates is my all-time favourite song. breathtaking views of the Hollywood hills.

What's your room service order?

What excites you most about a suite?

Strawberries and champagne!

Attention to detail is key. I love when I can find a cosy little spot where I can relax with maybournebeverlyhills.com

67

Anya Hindmarch CHECKS INTO THE CORNER TERRACE SUITE AT CLARIDGE’S

What do you like about Claridge's?

The history, the location and the warmth. It is also where I celebrated my 21st birthday, so there is a special personal connection.

What excites you about a suite?

Letting the outside world go. I always exhale when I arrive in a beautiful hotel room. It is time off. A safe harbour. Private space. keep me sane. They help me not forget anything.

Which PJs have you packed?

My linen Corn Flakes pyjamas – nice enough to lounge around in all evening.

Which book is on the nightstand?

If In Doubt, Wash Your Hair (mine!), or Viktor Frankl's Man’s Search For Meaning, which I still haven’t had a chance to read.

Anya Brands Corn Flakes Pyjamas, Anya Hindmarch

What's in your washbag?

Favourites from Sisley, Aesop and Dibia, but always in my labelled washbags that

Which album would you stream while you're here?

My AnyaCafe playlist: a lovely mix of 1950s jazz.

What's your cocktail order?

An Americano. A Negroni but less strong!

Clockwise from top: The Corner Terrace at Claridge's; lip balm, Sisley; eau de parfum, Aesop; body butter, Dibia; If In Doubt, Wash Your Hair by Anya Hindmarch

And your room service order?

Breakfast for supper: eggs, smoked salmon, plus thin fries. And ice cream.

claridges.co.uk

Tom Leeper THE CREATIVE DIRECTOR OF NEW & LINGWOOD CHECKS INTO THE APARTMENT AT THE BERKELEY

What do you most like about The Berkeley?

A good bathtub. Nothing beats a hot bath after a long journey.

Which PJs have you packed?

A burgundy and green stripe silk set from our A/W collection. It’s so soft and fits perfectly for relaxing in a nice hotel suite.

Which book is on the nightstand?

I love reading classics like Brideshead Revisited, or maybe a good art book on painters from the Bloomsbury Group or Lucian Freud.

What luggage are you using?

I love a good tote or canvas bag for short trips, nothing fussy.

What's in your washbag?

I usually go for a Le Labo Burgundy & shampoo. And Davines makes Green Stripe this great moisturiser/afterSilk Pyjama shave with a neroli scent that I Set, New & Lingwood love to put on in the morning.

Which album are you streaming?

It totally depends on my mood. Maybe something by Nick Cave or Jon Hopkins, and anything by Brian Eno to wind down.

Top and right: The Apartment at The Berkeley.

Above: Shampoo, Le Labo. Above right: Walton Bag, Anya Hindmarch

What's your cocktail order?

Dry Martini, no question.

And your room service order?

Steak frites, cooked medium rare, with a nice bottle of wine. the-berkeley.co.uk

PRODUCTION: ELLE BLAKEMAN; PHOTOGRAPHER’S ASSISTANT: GAELLE LOURSON; HAIR BY KEVIN SMEENK; MAKEUP BY AMEL ADHADHI

68

RACHEL LOUISE BROWN

Photographs by

NICKY YATES

Stylist

69

8 am

I start the day with a swim when the pool is gloriously empty.

I head back to my suite es for a breakfast of pancak and matcha (my daily ritual). There I can enjoy watching the sun slowly rise over Monte Carlo below. A little later I head to the spa for a massage.

Dawn Dusk FROM

’TIL

24 HOURS AT THE MAYBOURNE RIVIERA WITH ALICIA ROUNTREE-ZANNIER

Swimwear

by Alicia Swim

70

11.10 am

uneI head to nearby Roquebr l, Cap-Martin - a beautifu e sleepy little town where thop. pace slows almost to a st Families meet in pretty fee bougainvillea-framed cof shops, orange trees line a and path to the antiques shop nd locals gather to relax arou tree. the 2000-year-old olive can There’s a lookout where we scape take in the striking land sun. heating up in the midday

Dress and shoes, model’s own

1.30 pm

Back at the hotel I’ve booked the be and at the Riviera Resst table thanks to hotel m taurant Boris Messmer. W anager sky above and en ith blue ahead, I could s dless ocean hours. For me, mit here for are working ones, ost lunches a meal with my so to enjoy special for both ofhusband is us.

71

Below: dress, Stine Goya; shoes, Aquazzura. Left: outfit, model’s own

72

m

3.30 p

hotel e h t t a k c I arrive ba afternoon after some t the neighbouring shopping aenton. There is a town of M et – Le Marché food mark– selling delicious du Careï delectable local treats and With the midday delicacies.ing to wane, it ’s heat start eal time for some now the id yoga on the grass. afternoon

Skirt and top, Vince; shoes, model’s own.

Above: yoga outfit, model’s own

73

7.15pm

Dress, Maje; shoes, Aquazzura. Below: jumpsuit, Galvin; shoes Gianvito Rossi

Time for a Le 300 be cocktail at out to the fore heading watch the pool terrace to we go for dsunset. Later, Michelin-s inner at the the hotel’s tarred Ceto on surprise s rooftop for a the sea lettix-course menu – langoustin uce ravioli and trip alone e is worth the into Mona – before heading co for a n ightcap.

To book your own Riviera experience, visit maybourneriviera.com

74

10

REASONS TO LOVE

New York RIGHT NOW

THE BEST OF THE BIG APPLE, ACCORDING TO MARK C. O’FLAHERTY

75

THE MET OPERA

One of the greatest experiences the city can offer. Bizet’s Carmen rings in 2024 with a gala premiere on New Year’s Eve. Coming soon: X: The Life and Times of Malcolm X, Florencia en el Amazonas and El Niño. metopera.org

FILIPPO BACCI / GETTY IMAGES; JEAN-GEORGES VONGERICHTEN BY CLAY WILLIAMS; SAILOR BY NICOLE FRANZEN; DANTE ILLUSTRATION BY RILEY SHEEHEY; ST. NICHOLAS WTC

SAILOR

River Café alumnus April Bloomfield brought gastropub style to the West Village 20 years ago with her celebrated The Spotted Pig, and recently opened a neighbourhood bistro in Brooklyn's Fort Greene. The look is chic and maritime, designed by former Ralph Lauren chief creative officer Alfredo Paredes, and the menu is seafood-focused. sailor.nyc

DANTE

The bohemian West Village has vanished beneath waves of gentrification, but Dante – which opened in 1915 and counts Patti Smith as a regular – is a fixed point.

As anyone who has experienced Dante's expertly made Negronis on the roof of The Maybourne Beverly Hills will testify, the cocktails here are truly awe-inspiring. dante-nyc.com

Superstar architect Santiago Calatrava’s Oculus took 14 years to build in the Financial District – the most expensive train station of all time. Last year his reimagining of the church that was destroyed by 9/11 opened next to it. stnicholaswtc.org

ABC KITCHEN

THE TIN BUILDING

Jean-Georges Vongerichten opened this multitiered, seven-daysa-week dining destination inside The Tin Building in Seaport on the edge of the FiDi last year. The old abandoned seafood market now has five restaurants, three counters, three bars, and retail areas. It brings a bit of Jean-Georges flavour to everything from the sushi and sake at Sikku to the high-end Chinese fare at House of the Red Pearl. tinbuilding.com

THE SAINT NICHOLAS GREEK ORTHODOX CHURCH

ANGEL'S SHARE

When this Japanese speakeasy closed last year, the city mourned. Would we ever drink the plum salt Flirtibird again? Yes! But now in the West Village... angelssharenyc.com

When abc kitchen opened in 2010, Jean-Georges Vongerichten brought a new level of luxury to the farmto-table movement that defines 21st-century dining.

A fashion industry favourite still packed after 13 years, its peekytoe crab toast and black truffle and farm egg pizza are renowned. The first UK outpost will open in The Emory in London in 2024. jean-georges.com

DUCKIE BROWN ZERO + MARIA CORNEJO

Chilean-born designer Maria Cornejo has a loyal following among the downtown arthouse crowd, including Chloë Sevigny. Her work is architectural but easy to wear.

Corneejo's store – currently selling her 25th anniversary collection – remains one of the last independent designer shops in the city. zeromariacornejo.com

When menswear designers Steven Cox and Daniel Silver stopped showing their quirky men’s tailoring at Fashion Week, they shifted to appointments only – this could be the future of fashion. duckiebrown.com

HERE WE ARE

This autumn sees the final musical by Stephen Sondheim, inspired by the composer’s obsession with surrealist Spanish-Mexican filmmaker Luis Buñuel. David Hyde Pierce and Bobby Cannavale star. theshed.org

Maybourne has its eyes set on New York – watch this space... maybourne.com

One of the world’s largest classic car dealers, with hundreds of vehicles for sale. Our talented team source European Classic Cars for collectors, enthusiasts and investors worldwide. Only 30 minutes drive from the Maybourne Beverly Hills!

Visit us in person or call (310)-975-0272. sales@beverlyhillscarclub.com

Beverlyhillscarclub.com @mralexmanos / www.alexmanos.com

FOOD&DRINK LONDON / CÔTE D’AZUR / BEVERLY HILLS

New York’s hottest cocktail bar now has its first West Coast outpost. Dante at The Maybourne Beverly Hills offers rooftop views of the Hollywood Hills, daily Martini specials and indulgent wood-fired pizzas. maybournebeverlyhills.com

78

Best British THE OF

HANDMADE SCOTCH EGGS, SEA BASS EN CROUTE AND TRADITIONAL ROASTS… AS AUTUMN SETS IN, TOM PARKER BOWLES FINDS THE CONNAUGHT GRILL MENU BURSTING WITH HOMEGROWN FAVOURITES

79

LATEEF OKUNNU

I

t’s a memory as happy as it is ancient: me, aged about eight, on my first night back from boarding school. A frosty October night, the fire roaring, the dogs beside me on the sofa. On the television, Lee Majors in The Fall Guy. And, on my knee, a huge plate of cottage pie with peas. Bliss, pure bliss. After four weeks of some of the filthiest food to ever pass my lips – grim, grey, institutionalised slop – it’s time for a dinner I’ve been dreaming of for a month.

Food filled with succour and satisfaction, as calming as it is unfussy – the very essence of good cheer. The slow-cooked minced beef is the polar opposite of that gristly school muck: rich and generous, beneath crisp-topped mashed potato. A symphony of softness, an ode to savoury joy, it tastes like heaven. Spoon food. Happy food.

Comfort food.

In a world of stress and anxious uncertainty, we crave comfort: dishes into which one can disappear, a taste of childhood, or just plain joy. Simple, straightforward and entirely selfish. The edible equivalent of a hot bath.

There are no rules to comfort food, save what makes you happy. But as autumn sets in, it’s not just home cooking that we crave, but restaurant classics too. Gone are the salads, ceviches and cold soups of summer, replaced by roasts, things on toast, and dishes that slow cook in a low oven, blip blip blipping away. And at The Connaught Grill, you’ll find a menu filled with all manner of serious delights. Part of the restaurant’s charm lies in its position, tucked behind the lobby. Slip into a booth, and it’s like entering your own private world. No one will bother you. Then there’s the service: slick but never impersonal, warm without the smarm, Connaught to its core. Suitably ensconced with a Bloody Mary to hand, it’s time to dive into the food. The beetroot carpaccio would

‘Slip into a booth, and it’s like entering your own private world’

enchant even the most committed carnivore, with a whisper of chilli and smoke. The Scotch egg’s pork is enhanced by silken slivers of lardo di Colonnata. The caramelised bone marrow is spread thick on toasted brioche. Be still my beating heart.

The long-gone Bloody Mary is replaced by a glass of something big and red. Sit back and leave everything to the sommelier, before tucking into a whole spit-roast chicken, its skin crisp and golden, with chips and lashings of gravy. Or Welsh rack of lamb, cooked blushing pink, with black truffle potato rösti. Not forgetting the sea bass en croute that is one of London’s great Tableside theatre comes as standard at The Connaught Grill

fish dishes. And cottage pie as good as you’ll find anywhere.

Then dessert – obviously. Bread and butter pudding, with spiced pear and cinnamon ice cream. Crêpe suzette, flambéed tableside with Grand Marnier.

Sticky toffee pudding, with a flood of butterscotch sauce. The woes of the world are forgotten, as you sit back and ponder the most pressing of dilemmas: Cognac, Calvados or Armagnac?

Decisions, decisions.

That’s the thing about classic dishes: there’s no wrong, no right. Just whatever you crave.

The Connaught Grill is now offering a threecourse set menu for lunch, including cottage pie and sticky toffee pudding, for £45. Book at the-connaught.co.uk

80

Amazing Grace

81

MASTERCHEF JUDGE AND GUARDIAN CRITIC GRACE DENT CHATS TO FELLOW GOURMET JIMI FAMUREWA IN THE SPLENDID SURROUNDINGS OF CÉDRIC GROLET AT THE BERKELEY Photography by

RACHEL LOUISE BROWN

82

T

he instant that we have been left to conduct our interview, surrounded by exquisite confections at the heavenly Cédric Grolet counter in the heart of The Berkeley, Grace Dent turns to me. ‘So,’ she begins, ‘just to say that I won’t be answering any questions about my personal life or family. I’ve got a deal with Crosse & Blackwell soups that means I can’t mention any other brands, and my publicist will be coming in to wrap things up in 37 seconds.’ She pauses; a half-smile breaks the deadpan expression. And then comes the mischievous, gleeful bark of laughter that I know well from the years we have spent as fellow critics and hired gluttons on MasterChef.

It is typical Dent: a stiletto-sharp, highly specific bit of tensionbreaking humour. But, of course, what makes it particularly funny is the notion that she would ever engage in anything like cagey evasiveness. Lacerating yet playful honesty – whether as a columnist, broadcaster or author of Hungry, her award-winning account of her father’s struggle with dementia – has long been her signature. And that especially applies when it comes to the new book we are primarily here to talk about. Namely, Comfort Eating, an ostensible companion to her hit guilty culinary pleasures podcast that, in the writing, morphed into something far more exposed, raw and emotionally complex.

‘The book was supposed to be a cheery spinoff where I discuss Stephen Fry, Russell Tovey and Jo Brand coming to my house, and I link it to what I’ve learned about comfort food,’ she explains. ‘That was the genesis. But the fact is, I began both the podcast and the book in deep, high-functioning grief about my mother [Dent’s mother died in early 2021; her father passed away in late 2022]. I didn’t have any time off work. And I realised that, when I started to write this book, and my father was also dying, the things that I wanted to talk about – bread, cakes, childhood fish and chips, Sunday dinners and the importance of butter in my family – all felt like getting up in the morning and going into therapy.’

The result of this extended reminiscing is a book of two distinct, hugely compelling sides. On the one hand, it is all characteristically uproarious stories from behind the scenes of Comfort Eating, tales

Cédric Grolet's autumn collection features orange chocolate flowers, vanilla flowers, illusion lemons, peanut pistachio cookies, almond financier tarts and gianduja-laced lunettes

83

‘Cédric Grolet is one of the fanciest patisserie experiences in Europe’

HAIR AND MAKEUP: SAMANTHA COOPER/CAROL HAYES MANAGEMENT. LIGHTING/DIGITAL TECH: GEORGIA SHANE. STILL LIFE BY JUSTIN DE SOUZA

Dent described the Cédric Grolet team in her Guardian review as 'technicians who take spreading marmalade on a scone as seriously as building a Formula 1 car'

from her 1970s childhood in Cumbria and why Aunt Bessie represents ‘laziness rebadged as love’. On the other, it is seasoned with moments of crisply observed, unflinching disclosure – about her family history, about her working life, about the bottomless, bleak reality of bereavement – that frequently take your breath away. It is because of all of this that, she jokes, the book could be subtitled ‘tinned ravioli and death’. But the poignant symmetry of the moments she was describing – such as scattering her parents’ ashes at the same Silloth beach where her family would go for rainy caravan holidays – was too powerful to deny. ‘I was a bit like, “Should I leave it in?”’ she says. ‘“Do I want to bum everyone out with this?”

And then I just thought: if not now, then when?’

Another encouragement would have been that this level of openness is wholly in keeping with the Comfort Eating way. Since it launched in summer 2021 as an adjunct to her Guardian restaurant column, Dent’s podcast has been a safe space for celebrities to reveal both their basest gastronomic kinks and thornier personal struggles. BBC presenter Jay Blades has talked about overcoming prejudice between bites of Jamaican bun and cheese; comedian Jo Brand brought equipment for a fried-bread sandwich and wisdom about dealing with loss; actor Russell Tovey held forth on Fruit Loops and then wept openly while unpacking his adolescent closetedness. ‘I lure people in by saying it’s about Findus Crispy Pancakes,’ she notes, with a smile. ‘And, pretty soon, we’re talking about childhood trauma.’

There is real meaningfulness, she thinks, in who we are when we ‘take off the bits that have made us acceptable to the world’.

What’s more, she increasingly feels that comfort and nostalgia are vital components of even the most refined and luxurious dining.

‘We’ve just seen it, in absolute technicolour,’ she says, in reference to our morning photoshoot at Cédric Grolet's counter at The Berkeley (an experience Dent reviewed glowingly). ‘It is one of the fanciest patisserie experiences in Europe. But they brought out this

tray of chocolate cookies that were melting in the middle and had splodges on top that looked like Cadbury’s Chocolate Buttons. And it was so intoxicating because instantly my brain was just going: “Me and dad going to the supermarket for a packet of Buttons.” I think I am always looking for comfort food on every menu.’

In terms of London restaurants that excite her now, she identifies Manzi’s of Soho (‘A shiny, new, beautiful toy’), Polentina in Bow (‘Just perfect’) and the preponderance of fantastic Korean options clustered around New Malden. ‘I got off the train there recently and just thought, “I am so lucky,’’’ she says. This gratitude and clarity is probably also partly attributable to the two years she has now been sober – a self-defined ‘new phase of life’ that has helped to clarify ‘what’s really important’ and, she thinks, will be the basis of a forthcoming, multi-format project. ‘Booze was completely woven into every part of my entire life,’ she says. ‘My first memories are of my mum drinking and Babycham glasses – the absolute height of sophistication. And I realised my entire life I’d chased that: I thought it was so glamorous, as I drank myself into oblivion. So, that’s the next book. And the next podcast.’

As with Comfort Eating, her columns and all her work, it is another example of seeking connection through humour and honesty; of speaking to the things that people really go through, really feel and really desire. It’s something that was affirmed by all the grateful Instagram DMs she received in the wake of Hungry from people in families affected by dementia. ‘It’s like that line in the Police song, Message in a Bottle,’ she says, as we prepare to wrap things up. ‘“I guess I’m not alone in being alone.” That’s what these books always feel like. You feel like you’re alone in this emotion, you cast this message out in a bottle and you get up and there’s thousands of other bottles going, “I’m so glad you wrote that.”’

Comfort Eating by Grace Dent (Guardian/Faber) is out now. Book the new menu at Cédric Grolet at The Berkeley at the-berkeley.co.uk

BackTO

CLARIDGE'S RESTAURANT HAS REOPENED WITH ONLY

Future

THE

EXTERIOR: @CLERKENWELLBOY

ONE NAME IN MIND: YOURS. DAVID ELLIS INVESTIGATES

86

T

here probably isn’t a soul alive who fancies being defined by their ex. Even Liz Taylor and Richard Burton found two marriages apiece to rattle through after their own (second) divorce. Claridge’s will forever be the A-side of any relationship. After all, the primary restaurant at Brook Street has had many notable chefs behind the counter over the years. Each made their mark: Gordon Ramsay made it fashionable, Simon Rogan made it seasonal and Daniel Humm made it innovative. What now?

Independence. Twenty years after the hotel last had the confidence to bill the restaurant under its own name alone, it is doing so again.

There was no grand announcement of what is now simply called Claridge's Restaurant; it just quietly opened for lunch one day. A few journalists came in and drank too much and that was that. But the change is markedly different: the hotel has a room of its own once again. Under the eye of a marquee name chef, the restaurant felt like two minds meeting. Now, with the grand silk white of the walls and great curling mirrors, with the flat gleaming slabs of marble and the cosseting green leather, it feels uniquely Claridge's. Designer Bryan O'Sullivan has uncovered the rooftop skylights, designed by

Guy Oliver, in all their full glory and showcased art from the hotel's collection, including pieces by Sean Scully and Richard Gorman. It is a room you might wander into and say, 'It is just as I dreamed it would be. Claridge’s is herself again.'

And 'herself', here, means recognising that the hotel is a grande dame. Perhaps you know the type: outwardly all put-together and proper, until they catch your eye over a joke and it becomes clear that under the surface there is a deep dry humour, a sense of fun and a little naughtiness. This is a restaurant with a raised eyebrow, an irreverent smile. It is, in other words, a lot of fun.

You might make breakfast last till lunch. Or you might walk in for lunch and find yourself asking if there’s room to stay for supper. Experience suggests the excellent wine list helps enormously with making the decision to stay later than one ought.

This sense of fun-infused formality is elegantly inked into the heart of the menu. There are the pleasingly upscale choices from Irish chef Coalin Finn; your choice of caviar, the lobster lying under a sauce Américaine – one of the stately French sauces, no matter how they name it. And it’s there in the towering,

PREVIOUS SPREAD AND INTERIORS: JAMES MCDONALD

Bryan O'Sullivan's design creates a simple grandeur while dishes such as grilled lobster, plateau de fruits de mer and Cornish turbot impress

87

RAISING THE BAR Just as the menu ensures diners feel they are the most important ones in the room, so too do the cocktails.

The restaurant bar is hard to baffle – the list of spirits making it clear that this precise corner of Mayfair is prepared for even the most esoteric imbibers.

The neat three-part list – divided into apéritif, seasonal and classic cocktails – mimics the food menu’s versatility.

There's a Mandarin Garibaldi (Campari, BarSol Pisco, mandarin, honey) and a Jasmin Silver Bullet (Tanqueray, dill, kummel, Cocchi Americano, aquavit) for

those who come to a bar to try something new. And for those who know precisely what they want, there's everything from a French 75 to Pimm's.

Happily, this is one of those spots where there is a preference to cater to taste, rather than try to change it.

handpicked fruits des mer, shimmering oysters next to hunched langoustines; the centrepiece of crab, its rival the lobster; scallops on their homegrown plates; and mussels studding it like jewels.

Familiar orders are here too: butter-soaked turbot, maybe, or the beef rib for two, with a smear of confit garlic and the sticky sweetness of the immortal Bordelaise, or the Norfolk chicken, stuffed with brioche and lemon and roasted till the skin goes golden. But it goes beyond that: those curious to explore can. There is a buckwheat crumpet that sits under shavings of black truffle stacked up like a pile of papers; there are radishes that are spiked on skewers and come with fine black marks from the barbecue. The saffron that colours the sea bass’s beurre blanc has the freshness of courgette cheerfully fighting against it.

What’s here, then, is a restaurant that runs at all different speeds.

Claridge’s manager Paul Jackson puts it best: 'It is a spot where people can pop in a few times a week for coffee and an indulgent breakfast, an informal leisurely lunch, or a truly special occasion dinner.' Which in the end means: here is a restaurant that feels as though it has always existed – immortal, ageless, a perfect fit.

To book a table at Claridge's Restaurant, visit claridges.co.uk

88

Kind of Blue

DJ AND SINGER IRAINA MANCINI EXPLORES THE VINYL-INSPIRED COCKTAILS OF THE BLUE BAR. LAURA BARTON LISTENS IN

A

few moments before cocktail hour in The Berkeley’s Blue Bar. Iraina Mancini, resplendent in gold catsuit and platform heels, flicks through her stash of records and places Serge Gainsbourg’s Histoire de Melody Nelson on the turntable. The sound of Dougie Wright’s drums spills out across the room, and the long-fringed curtains seem to shimmer appreciatively.

Manager Marcello Cauda appears from behind the bar and hands her a Dry Martini.

This is, it seems, The Mancini Effect. The singer has the rare quality of making whatever room she enters feel at least twice as stylish as it was before her arrival. Whether she is DJing around the city, helming her show on Soho Radio or performing her own songs live with a band, she brings an elegant irresistibility to proceedings.

‘The Blue Bar is so beautiful,’ she says. ‘I love the separate little room off the main bar with the vinyl decks. Just enough room for a little boogie, and curtains to close if you want a more private space.’

A lifelong Londoner, Mancini grew up in Maida Vale, attended school in Marylebone and spent her teenage weekends digging for records in Portobello. ‘It was a colourful, creative upbringing, with lots of characters,’ she remembers. ‘Which meant my parents were great at helping with my art homework, but not so much with maths.’

Mancini’s mother is a photographer, her father a composer who toured and played with David Bowie. She tells the story of how, as a surly 13-year-old, she was made to sit next to the singer when he popped round for lunch. ‘Do you listen to any of my music?’

Bowie wondered. ‘No, absolutely not,’ she told him and turned her back. ‘A year or so later, I went to his concert and realised

he was incredible and felt so embarrassed about that moment.’

Her own musical gifts were apparent even as a child. Learning classical piano and singing on advertising jingles for her father, she developed a keen ear and a thirst for melody. When she discovered Gainsbourg and Birkin, Bardot, Brel and Françoise Hardy, she found a kind of musical and aesthetic kinship. ‘It was stylish escapism, and it changed my world,’ she says. ‘I loved the playfulness. It was kitsch and silly and cool and sexy – and the melodies were so sweet.’

Mancini’s debut album, Undo the Blue, is a reflection of all these influences. It displays the immense versatility of her voice and tastes, spanning big pop numbers to yeh yeh-ed coquetry, via the European disco and Northern Soul obscurities she loves to play for festival crowds. ‘I just wanted to transport people to a fantasy world, with melodies that really stick in their brains,’ she says. ‘I want people to listen to it and smile.’

Accordingly, her dream London day might encompass the charity-shop vinyl of Muswell Hill, the pub jukeboxes of Hackney, lots of good friends, a spicy Margarita or two and a late-night dive bar in Soho. Mancini surveys The Blue Bar’s LP-shaped menu. ‘I always feel London does the right amount of rock ’n’ roll meets sophistication. You can step into a basement bar and listen to the coolest new band and then have a gorgeous cocktail by a top mixologist in a beautiful hotel.’ She pauses, lost in thought. ‘That Martini was exceptional by the way. Silky smooth, dry and hit like a punch!’

Undo the Blue is out now on Needle Mythology Records. irainamancini.com.

Experience late-night vinyl-only DJ sets at The Blue Bar every Thursday to Saturday the-berkeley.co.uk

The expanded Blue Bar now offers a vinylinspired cocktail selection

HAIR AND MAKEUP: SAMANTHA COOPER / CAROL HAYES MANAGEMENT; LIGHTING / DIGITAL TECH: GEORGIA SHANE

Photography by RACHEL LOUISE BROWN

89

History IN THE MAKING

STRAIGHT UP, WITH STYLE, NEVER FORGETTING THE SMILE – 15 YEARS AT THE CONNAUGHT BAR. BY SANDRAE LAWRENCE

A

From left: bar manager Maura Milia, director of mixology Agostino Perrone and assistant director of mixology Giorgio Bargiani mixing signature Martinis at the Connaught Bar

gostino Perrone still recalls where my husband and I were seated the first time we visited the Connaught Bar. ‘You were just there,’ he says, nodding to the corner table. And, just like that, I’m transported to that evening in October 2008, two months after the soon-to-be hotspot officially reopened.

I remember stepping into the glorious Art Decoinspired space. Regal yet relatable, glamorous yet inviting – David Collins had cleverly made over the room so everyone fitted in. I remember the thrill of being served a welcome drink, a standout touch unheard-of at the time.

I remember our cocktails, mesmerising to watch being made and a revelation to taste. And, of course, I remember Perrone: charming, stylish, personable, every inch the master – now director – of mixology in what was destined to be one of the most highly acclaimed bars in the world.

Rewind to the cocktail scene in 2008. ‘There was a clear distinction between hotel bars and street bars and nothing in between.’ His brief was to bridge that gap.

‘The people who love design came in to take photographs and fell in love with the service and the drinks; bartenders who came in for the drinks fell in love with the design and the service; and guests who came in for the service fell in love with the cocktails and design,’ he says proudly. ‘Those three ingredients are always in our DNA – they’re the magical triangle of our values.’

It’s those values that have earned Perrone and his team respect across the globe. And they have the accolades to prove it: ‘World’s Best Bar’ for two consecutive years, ‘World’s Best Cocktail Bar’ and ‘Best International Bar Team’ among a slew of others, including ‘Best International Bar Mentor’ for Perrone, ‘International Bartender of the Year’ for assistant director of mixology Giorgio Bargiani and ‘Bar Manager of the Year’ for Maura Milia. Key moments in Perrone’s Connaught career? ‘When Pierce Brosnan came into the bar and ordered a Martini. Now, whenever he comes in, he calls us all by our names.’

The Connaught Bar – Recipes and Iconic Creations (Phaidon) will be published in 2024. the-connaught.co.uk

91

STYLE & BEAUTY LONDON / CÔTE D’AZUR / BEVERLY HILLS

Stressed out? Experience the new ‘Adaptogenic Muscle Release’ at The Aman Spa at The Connaught, inspired by traditional Chinese medicine. Enjoy the 90-minute treatment, before relaxing in Mayfair's most tranquil pool.

Make your reservation at the-connaught.co.uk

94 Daniel Lee’s Burberry has distinctly British hallmarks including scarves, coats and hot-water bottles

95

MORNING, NOON,

OPPOSITE PAGE: SIMBARASHE CHA/GREAT FRIENDS AGENCY

Knight

THIS SEASON, DANIEL LEE REVEALS HIS VISION FOR BURBERRY, INSPIRED BY BRITAIN IN ALL ITS RAIN-SOAKED GLORY. ANNA MURPHY HERALDS A NEW ERA

96

97

COURTESY BURBERRY

I

don’t know what it says about me, but Daniel Lee, the new chief creative officer at Burberry, had me at the hot-water bottle.

His was the most anticipated show of London Fashion Week Autumn/Winter 23. What was waiting on every seat in the chilly show space? Each one covered in a bright-blue-and-brown retool of the brand’s signature check? You guessed it. And at the perfect level of toastiness to boot. I immediately clutched mine to my chest, as did every other Brit in the room. ‘What IS this?’ I heard one bemused American front-rower ask. The first model down the runway was holding one, too.

So actually, on reflection, I do know what my love of Lee’s transformation of Burberry is about, at least in part. It’s that I am British, and so is Lee. And that this is a brand that, at its best, has always had Britishness woven into its DNA, into that celebrated Burberry check.

Lee knows – feels – what Britishness means, just as his fellow Yorkshireman Christopher Bailey did when he led the brand’s previous heyday in the first decade of this century. It’s instinctive for him, which was clear the second his punked-up checks hit the catwalk.

Not that you need to be British to appreciate the allure of this country’s aesthetic, of course. Our idiosyncratic mix of the buttoned-up and the out-there has long had international appeal. It may be an apparently contradictory two-step of Savile Row suits and Sid Vicious; of cream teas and clubland; of a stiff upper lip and a highly developed sense of the absurd; of, in short, the establishment and the anti-establishment.

Yet, somehow, we have managed to turn it into one gloriously quirky – and highly exportable – whole.

Lee has toyed with such contradictions beautifully in his first two collections for Burberry. His opening play for our affections – and our currency – is installed at the refurbished New Bond Street flagship store, just a short walk from Claridge’s and The Connaught. His second Resort offering arrives in November.

Squaring the circle of classicism and cool are ensembles that appear both chic and a tiny bit – whisper it! – punk. Think a classic houndstooth retooled into op-art-like waves. Think Sex Pistols-style zips slashed across clothes and accessories. Think the traditional argyle tank reincarnated as a veritable slink of a jumper dress. Think a come-hither kilt frock. Think humorous sleights of hand, from giant faux trapper hats to a blanket coat that really looks like a blanket.

Think silks patterned with everything from ducks to dandelions.

‘Ducks are so British,’ Lee told me backstage after the show. ‘And they are associated with rain.’

On the subject of which, think also – it surely goes without saying – some really excellent and extremely upscale-looking wellies.

And think – it definitely goes without saying – assorted retools of

Opposite: Burberry’s Spring 2024 collection shows Daniel Lee’s mastery of print and pattern.

This page: the New Bond Street flagship store

Burberry’s signature trench. Like a mustard-yellow number with faux-fur collar, or another strewn with hologrammed roses. Or the iterations that are more along the lines of a Britpop-era parka.

Then there are the accessories: myriad shoes and bags just waiting to have the word ‘it’ put in front of them. In a previous gig at the Italian brand Bottega Veneta, Lee made his leather goods the hottest around. Now he is shaping up to do the same for Burberry, whether that’s with bulbous-toed courts and faux-fur sandals or squishy saddlebags in assorted sizes, some trailing faux foxtails.

Burberry’s CEO Jonathan Akeroyd, who joined from Versace in 2022, has ambitious plans for his brand. To make it a go-to for items other than a much-loved trench coat is a key part of his proposition. He’s hired the right man for the job.

Lee is the accessories whisperer de nos jours. And accessories are not only about shoes and bags for him – introducing, as previously mentioned, an all-new phenomenon: the it-hot-water bottle. You heard it here first.

Burberry has been around since 1856. Lee has already made his mark, yet his vision bears the imprint of earlier Burberrys, of echt Burberry that sits above them all. He has delivered a certain kind of eccentricity and eclecticism that is quintessentially of these isles and yet exists out of time and place.

The designer spoke after the show about wanting ‘to celebrate what’s great about this country, which is that the streets are full of people from all walks of life. There is great music here, great theatre, great art. I wanted to shine a light on those things and show a positive side of Britain to the world.’ Here’s to that.

Galloping over one of his cool-girl dresses is a royal-blue reinvention of Burberry’s Equestrian Knight logo. The Latin word ’Prorsum’ – meaning ‘forwards’ – is present and correct. What has changed is the size. It is big. Very big. Just like Burberry’s ambition.

See Daniel Lee’s collection at the refurbished Burberry flagship store on New Bond Street, London. burberry.com

99

THE PL AC E S T H AT MADE

hanel C

EXPORTING PARISIAN CHIC TO THE WORLD, GABRIELLE CHANEL WAS DEFINED BY THREE DESTINATIONS: LONDON, LA AND THE RIVIERA. DELILAH KHOMO FOLLOWS IN COCO’S FOOTSTEPS

DAVID DOWNTON; BILL HOGAN/CHICAGO TRIBUNE/TRIBUNE NEWS SERVICE VIA GETTY IMAGES

Illustration by DAVID DOWNTON

H

as there been a more mythical rise than that of Gabrielle Chanel? Like a fairytale, her transformation into ‘Coco’ took Chanel from impoverished beginnings in an orphanage to the most exclusive enclaves. She became one of the world’s leading authorities on fashion, travel and style: a pioneer and icon who dominated her field and completely altered the way the aristocracy – and then everyone else – dressed.

Chanel’s greatness lay in striking the perfect note, dressing first and foremost for herself.

‘She did not evolve,’ journalist Prudence Glynn wrote in 1971. ‘Rather fashion evolved around her.’ Coco knew the joy – and the power – of expressing herself. Her work was clear and confident: she wanted to inspire freedom of movement for women with fluid, androgynous and democratic design. Fierce individualism – for example, her insistence on ‘simplicity is elegance’, before those words were on everyone’s lips – made her a symbol of the emancipatory power of fashion for the modern woman.

Astonishingly ahead of her time, Chanel changed the course of fashion. Consequently, more than a century after she opened her first shop on Paris’s Rue Cambon, her house dominates London’s cultural calendar. Fashion Manifesto – the first UK exhibition dedicated to her work – is at the V&A, featuring 200 looks across seven decades. It’s a rare opportunity to trace the evolution of Chanel – both the brand and the extraordinary woman behind it.

Chanel’s design legacy – the bobs, bouclé suits and little black dresses – is enthralling. But it’s the idea of Coco as the ultimate traveller that fascinates me. She possessed the spirit of a place, from Paris to Deauville, so evocatively, adapting her style to fit in seamlessly. For her, travel was more than a temporary relocation: it was a lifestyle. ‘Fashion does not exist only in dresses,’ she proclaimed. ‘Fashion is in the air, it is borne on the wind. One intuits it. It is in the sky and on the road.’ She taught us where to travel and how: pioneering the idea of small perfume vials and declaring you could traverse the globe with four pairs of shoes. This is someone who led by example.

100

It’s no surprise that Claridge’s was said to be a regular haunt. Just across from Chanel’s Davies Street boutique, the hotel was thought to be a preferred venue to meet her lover, the Duke of Westminster, who lived down the road at Bourdon House (now the flagship of Dunhill).

Hers was a particularly Proustian way of enjoying London: reportedly a mixture of afternoon teas at Claridge’s, dining on caviar at Prunier in St James’s and candlelit dinners at L’Escargot in Soho. London was clearly a joy to her. As Justine Picardie points out in the definitive Coco Chanel: The Legend and the Life (Harper Collins), 'If you walk along certain streets of Mayfair, you can still see a number of double Cs embossed upon the old lamp posts; a final emblem of the Duke’s gesture towards Coco Chanel, a silent mark of their union, and of the melding of British tradition with French couture, in a style all of its own.’

Eventually even Hollywood came calling. Chanel had collaborated with the artist Jean Cocteau on theatre productions and with Sergei Diaghilev’s ballets at the Théâtre des Champs Elysées. But, then as now, there was nowhere like Tinseltown.

When film producer Sam Goldwyn called in 1931, Chanel took a champagne-fuelled, cross-country train ride from New York to LA. There, she worked on costumes for Palmy Days, Tonight or Never and The Greeks Had a Word for Them (for the last she designed 30 dresses).

In exchange for designing for Goldwyn’s stars, Chanel negotiated an extraordinary deal worth a not-so-small fortune. She was greeted by Greta Garbo, who – like Marlene Dietrich – wore her creations. However, it was with Gloria Swanson, the actress best known for Sunset Boulevard, that her work as a costume designer found its most alluring form.

Despite such success studio heads rejected her designs as not ‘sensational’ enough – which seems inconceivable today, when Chanel adorns Margot Robbie and Marion Cotillard at the Oscars. This year also saw the Chanel Cruise 23/24 show in LA: a lavish celebration of Californian iconography, with the likes of Kristen Stewart and Margaret Qualley on the front row. Many guests stayed at The Maybourne Beverly Hills, minutes from the statement Chanel store on Rodeo Drive.

̒ Fashion does not exist only in dresses; fashion is in the air, it is borne on the wind’

FPG/HULTON ARCHIVE/GETTY IMAGES; © CHANEL / PHOTO: NICHOLAS ALAN COPE; THE PRINT COLLECTOR VIA GETTY IMAGES; COURTESY CHANEL

Clockwise from top: Chanel in Biarritz in 1928; at La Pausa in 1938; London, where Chanel opened a boutique in 1927; a printed silk organza dress from 1935

101 Left: Chanel considered the French Riviera a home-from-home, opening a boutique in Monaco in 1913, and a second in Cannes in 1923

HAROLD LLOYD/GETTY IMAGES; JIM HEIMANN COLLECTION/GETTY IMAGES; DOUGLAS KIRKLAND/SYGMA/CORBIS VIA GETTY IMAGES; MICHAEL TRAN/AFP VIA GETTY IMAGES; © ED FEINGERSH/MICHAEL OCHS ARCHIVES/GETTY IMAGES

Right: models at the Chanel Cruise 23/24 show in Los Angeles; Marilyn Monroe applying her Chanel N°5 perfume in 1955

̒ She may have invented sunbathing... at that time she invented everything’

But if ever there was a place that embodies the stylish sybaritism we associate with Coco Chanel, it is the Côte d’Azur. An enduring snapshot of Chanel in beach pyjamas, descending the Duke of Westminster’s yacht and basking in the delicious South of France, is the stuff of travel dreams. ‘She may have invented sunbathing,’ declared Prince Jean-Louis de FaucignyLucinge after that trip. ‘At that time, she invented everything.’

On this permanently glistening coastline, nowhere is more Chanel than her villa, La Pausa: one of the marvels of the Riviera, perched dramatically above Roquebrune-Cap-Martin. Her summer residence was completed in 1930 with the help of architect Robert Streitz. There were grand stone staircases and cloistered pillars – a nod to her religious upbringing in Aubazine Abbey. Even La Pausa’s name was inspired by the abbey, which stood on a site where Mary Magdalene is said to have ‘paused’ on her journey from Jerusalem. American Vogue wrote, 'There is no doubt that Mademoiselle Gabrielle Chanel is a person with very rare taste and it is therefore not in the least

surprising that she has built for herself one of the most enchanting villas that ever materialised on the shores of the Mediterranean.’

Chanel enjoyed happy years there, welcoming guests including Salvador Dalí, Igor Stravinsky and Pablo Picasso. In 2015, the House of Chanel bought the villa and restored it to its former glory. Although it is not open to the public, you can invoke the spirit of La Pausa with some late-night revelry at The Maybourne Riviera. As one writer joked: 'Mornings don't exist in the South – and you see no-one before lunch.'

I will be first in line at the V&A this autumn, and will marvel at the original 2.55 bag, the iconic image of Marilyn Monroe clutching a bottle of N°5 before a premiere and the forward-thinking, black sequined 1930s trouser suit. But, for me, nothing is more inspiring than Coco Chanel herself: the girl born in a poor-house, flying private jet in a black suit, adorned with a statement gold brooch.

Gabrielle Chanel. Fashion Manifesto runs until 25 February 2024 (vam.ac.uk). Read more about Chanel at chanel.com

102

PLAYERS ONLY

ROYAL REFERENCE

Heralded for its lightweight, openwork designs, Richard Mille’s latest model – the RM 65-01 – assembles a constellation of parts to create RM’s first in-house automatic splitsecond chronograph, measuring to 1/10th of a second. It boasts a novel ‘rapid winding’ button to supplement the colour-coded multifunction crown. richardmille.com

PERFECT

Few watches can claim a relationship with a monarch, but one is Parmigiani, the brand worn by King Charles III. His choice comes from the Toric collection (a yellow gold chronograph, since you ask), but, for those seeking something a tad more contemporary, the Tonda collection now includes the mid-size (36mm) Tonda PF, as elegant as you like – and still fit for a king. parmigiani.com

Timing THE BOLDEST NEW WATCHES, SELECTED BY BILL PRINCE, EDITOR-IN-CHIEF OF THE BLEND

HIDDEN TREASURE Automatic mechanical watches usually rely on a large oscillating weight to wind the mainspring. Not Carl F. Bucherer: instead, the Manero Peripheral uses a peripheral rotor that disappears through the sapphire case back.

Mainstreaming the technology of the new Anniversary Manero collection of timepieces is just one way in which the brand is rejuvenating itself after 135 years. carl-f-bucherer.com

L ove THE SMART CHOICE Named for the year of Rolex’s founding, the Perpetual 1908 offers a more vintage feel than the outgoing Cellini range, while adding a fresh new calibre – ensuring the famously incremental advancements in the Crown’s watchmaking can still be enjoyed by those who prefer a dressier model. rolex.com

PURPLE REIGN

LA DOLCE VITA After eight world records in 10 years for ultra-thin watchmaking, and following the use of titanium, platinum, rose gold, ceramic and even marble in its construction, Bulgari’s signature Carbon Gold enters its landmark Finissimo collection with the Bulgari Finissimo Carbongold Automatic. It brings a welcome touch of 1990s bella figura to a watch design from the Roman house that has been heralded as a contemporary classic. bulgari.com

When Geneva brand Patek Phillipe took its grand exhibition to Tokyo, it packed this new masterpiece: the World Time Reference 5330G-010, now boasting a date function. patek.com

OWEN PHOTOGRAPHED AT THE CONNOLLY ARMS BY PAMALA HANSON

4 CLIFFORD STREET, LONDON

www.connollyengland.com

104

Chanel’s latest high jewellery collection pays homage to the Parisian couture house’s most beloved fabric: tweed. This glorious, yellow gold Byzance brooch is set with diamonds and beryls that radiate from an exceptional 2.12ct cushion-cut diamond, while the central sun motif can be detached and worn on a chain. chanel.com

Secret Garden

MATERIAL GIRL

L ove

The Grand Tour

For its latest collection, Boodles departs its native England for a continental jaunt, creating suites inspired by the art and architecture of a host of European cities. Gaudí’s vivacious, organic signature makes its way onto this Barcelona necklace of multi-shaped and multi-coloured sapphires, opals and diamonds, all set in eco-conscious Single Mine Origin gold. boodles.com

GLITTERING

Gardens and flowers were an enduring muse for Christian Dior. This sumptuous explosion of blooms comes courtesy of diamonds, emeralds, rubies, tsavorite garnets, pink sapphires and pink spinels, which gather around a 16.91ct Colombian emerald.

Best of all, this necklace can be worn in three different ways. dior.com

Prizes

FROM TECHNICOLOUR BURSTS OF JOY TO THE MOST ELEGANT STONE SHAPES, MING LIU SELECTS THE JEWELS THAT WILL HAVE YOU SPARKLING ALL SEASON

ROCK OF AGES David Morris, the Bond Street jeweller, is synonymous with stunning and exceptional stones – think super-rare conch pearls and jaw-dropping opals.

The latest is this Iznik ring, set with an incredibly silky 10.97ct emeraldcut Burmese sapphire that’s given extra zing by a surround of 4.02cts of Paraíba tourmalines and 2.9cts of diamonds. davidmorris.com

The Daisy Age Asprey’s Daisy collection is an ode to the romance of British wildflowers, which come to bejewelled life in a burst of marquisecut stones. These deep burgundy Asprey Garnet Daisy stud earrings – featuring 16 red garnet petals encircling a pavé-set diamond centre – feel equally at home in a fabulous festive setting or as a decadent 2024 Valentine’s Day gift. asprey.com

As with fashion, mixing and matching is the new mood and this Pragnell ring has you covered. A pink hexagonal diamond meets a rakish shield-cut stone, their shapes accentuated by halos of matching stones. A band in white and rose gold rounds out the theme. pragnell.co.uk

MAIN IMAGE COURTESY DIOR

GEOMETRIC CHIC

106

Chopard rosegold cufflinks, mrporter.com

AFTER DARK 'Tis the season for eveningwear as deliciously inviting as that first Fumoir cocktail of the evening. Raise a glass to splendid afterdark dressing (such as Favourbrook's sumptuous Chaucer jacket) for the party peacock. favourbrook.com Velvet opera pumps, arthursleep.com

L ove

Rather than autumn’s typical mood board of russet, plum and sage, Franck Namani applies a delicious gelato colourscape to his knitwear with caramel, sky blue and sunniest buttercup. francknamani.com

Gentleman’s RELISH

STEPHEN DOIG, THE TELEGRAPH’S MEN’S STYLE EDITOR, PICKS HIS SEASONAL FAVOURITES

City Sharp The quiet-luxury movement shows no sign of slowing down, as exemplified by Moncler’s focus on The Impeccable Classics, a capsule range of plush, sumptuous outerwear that’s built for Mount Street and the environs of the city. moncler.com

PISTE OF THE ACTION

SUIT

UP

Autumn calls for a sense of solidity in men’s dressing.

The suit is back! There are boxy iterations from Alessandro Sartori at Zegna, razor sharp and sexy tailoring at Saint Laurent and pristine suiting from the grand master of all things immaculate, Hermès.

Flying High

If Montblanc’s pens are the ultimate flourish when your signature is required, this new suite of handsome luggage will look equally at home as you hand it over to the concierge. The My4810 range is a sleek lineup of trolley cases in suitably alpine shades of forest green and steely blue. montblanc.com

Brunello Cucinelli has turned his eye to the après-ski scene. The Italian maestro has created a range of refined knits and padded gilets in his signature neutral aesthetic. brunellocucinelli.com

MAIN IMAGE COURTESY FAVOURBROOK; CATWALK IMAGERY COURTESY SAINT LAURENT AND ZEGNA

Myrrhe Mystere Eau de Parfum, tomford.co.uk

Let There Be Lightness

DIARIES FOR A COLOURFUL LIFE

NEW BOND STREET SLOAN E STREET WESTBOU RN E GROVE HARRODS

SMY TH SON .COM

SELFRIDGES

108

Strike a Cord Light and dainty necklaces have been temporarily usurped by something chunkier and more nostalgic.

The 1990s cord necklace, complete with pendant, is back and this time it’s uber luxurious. Bookmark Sophie Buhai to elevate your neck game. sophiebuhai.com

MADRID MATCHMAKER

Front Row The Future of Ford

Among the season’s most awaited debuts was Peter Hawkings at Tom Ford, who unveiled his inaugural collection during Milan Fashion Week. Hawkings, named creative director after the Texan designer sold his namesake label to Estée Lauder late in 2022, began his career working at Gucci, under Ford, in 1998. tomford.com

FRENCH FANCY

GRAZIA’S JANE McFARLAND RECOMMENDS STYLISH SELECTIONS FOR 2024

BIG SQUEEZE Succession may have mocked our ‘ludicrously capacious’ bags, but, in the real world, we all know the bigger the better.

Cue Loewe’s latest style – aptly named The Squeeze – in buttery leather with a squishy handle and doughnut chain detail. loewe.com

Ricci by Reed

Harris Reed’s Nina Ricci is flamboyant, fearless and not for the faint of heart.

Looking for something knockout for the upcoming festive season?

Consider his polka dots and tulle a fast track to NYE style. ninaricci.com

The Mary Jane flat is having a moment as a wear-with-everything shoe that you can also walk in. Le Monde Beryl's signature square-toe styles are now available in multiple colourways, exclusively from Matches. matchesfashion.com

MAIN IMAGES COURTESY OF ZIMMERMANN. CATWALK IMAGERY COURTESY NINA RICCI. PETER HAWKINGS BY FERRY VAN DER NAT. SOPHIE BUHAI BY GILLIAN GARCIA

FROM THE

Spanish dance halls of the 1950s are the overarching theme of Zimmermann’s Resort collection – think A-line skirts, bandana prints and rolled-up, short-sleeve blouses. The pieces to note?

High-waist denim and a plaid crop top with coordinating pencil midi skirt. Olé! zimmermann.com

110

UNDER THE EYE A world-leading expert in stem-cell research, Professor Augustinus Bader has spent 30 years unlocking the body’s innate ability to self-heal, resulting in an eponymous line that focuses on rejuvenating skincare. The groundbreaking new Augustinus Bader Eye Patches, which plump and hydrate delicate skin while reducing fine lines, can be found in the mini fridges in each Claridge's bedroom. augustinusbader.com

Space Is The Place

Beauty NOTES

New to the Space NK roster is Emma Lewisham, the New Zealand intelligent skincare brand that is loved by beauty editors for its science-led natural ingredient products.

Start your journey with the Supernatural face cream for a big dose of hydration to the skin. spacenk.com

EXTRAORDINARY TREATMENTS FOR EXCITING TIMES, RECOMMENDED

BY BILLIE BHATIA

Designed by the incomparable Pierre Hardy, three seductive limited-edition lip colours are now available from Hermès.

Pick from the elegant burgundy of Rouge Abysse, the brick red of Rouge Bruni and the plum purple of Rouge Prunoir.

All contained within the chicest (and most sustainable) packaging. hermes.com

ENDLESS SUMMER

L ove

From Jazz Club to Beach Walk, Maison Margiela Replica fragrances have the ability to really capture a moment in time. Under the Stars is a concoction of amber woodiness, akin to the fading embers of a campfire, black pepper, pine and leather. Warm and welcoming.

Exclusively at harrods.com

GREAT LENGTHS Celebrity makeup artist Gucci Westman continues to make wearers feel like the best versions of themselves. Eye Want You is an easily buildable mascara that lengthens lashes. Crafted from plant-based filament, it transforms eyes from natural to fluttery with just a few swipes. westman-atelier.com

After Summer Fridays' bestselling Jet Lag Mask, the vegan, fuss-free brand's next hit is the Rich Cushion Cream, which both nourishes and boosts skin’s natural barriers. summerfridays.com

MAIN IMAGE COURTESY AUGUSTINUS BADER

MIDNIGHT IN PARIS

Starry Night

NO ONE BUILDS A LEGACY BY STANDING STILL

Beyond rare vintages Recreating the perfect year

100/100

19.5/20

Grand Siècle Nº26 in bottle. On allocation. www.laurent-perrier.com

The Inside Track

LUKE ABRAHAMS

LONDON / CÔTE D’AZUR / BEVERLY HILLS

‘Connaughty’ dogs have always been part of the daily adventures of The Connaught, from the hotel’s distinguished emblem, to the canine oil paintings that line the legendary staircase at the heart of the hotel, to the renowned handmade chocolate hounds from The Connaught Patisserie on Mount Street. the-connaught.co.uk

114

Chec k Out…

THE LATEST NEWS AND VIEWS FROM MAYBOURNE

WORLDRENOWNED Three Maybourne properties have been included in the inaugural World’s 50 Best Hotels. Claridge’s and The Connaught are ranked the two best hotels in the UK, with The Maybourne Riviera crowned the best hotel in France. maybourne.com

‘One of the newest properties on this stunning Mediterranean coastline, The Maybourne Riviera boasts distinctive modernist design and a restaurant from world-topping chef Mauro Colagreco.’

‘A true hideaway of hedonism for over a century, The Connaught has it all, not least a bar that has been named the very best in the world – twice.’

‘A historic hotel with a forwardthinking attitude, Claridge’s is the jewel in the crown of Maybourne’s expanding empire.’

115

SWEET SUCCESS ROOM FOR 2 Global pop sensation Dua Lipa recently experienced Hélène Darroze at The Connaught for Vogue France. The singer enjoyed tandoori lobster, pigeon wellington and the famous Baba dessert. Lipa's verdict? 'Délicieuse!' the-connaught.co.uk

Note Perfect

Revive the art of correspondence with these elegant new notelets. Available in three exclusive colours – jade, black and gold – the scalloped cards and envelopes are handfinished and made in England, exclusively for Claridge’s. claridges.co.uk

After six years at The Connaught creating showstopping sweet treats, legendary pastry chef Nicolas Rouzaud’s name is finally immortalised on the flag outside. How best to mark the occasion? By journeying to Paris with fellow chef Jerome Beraudo to win the award for ‘Best Afternoon Tea’ at La Liste pastry awards in Paris. Bravo! the-connaught.co.uk

Ocean Colour Scene

SLICE OF THE ACTION

Follow in the footsteps of artists such as Bacon, Matisse and Picasso by creating your own artwork in the French Riviera. New watercolour classes allow you to take inspiration from your splendid surroundings, with guests' work being shown in a gallery on-site. The perfect out-ofseason treat. The team also offer street art guides and private visits to museums, art foundations and even the Biot Glass Ecomuseum. maybournerivera.com

After a four-year absence, enjoy the crowd-pleasing lobster pizza at The Collins Room at The Berkeley, complete with lavish pieces of Scottish lobster and generous slices of truffle. Order at any time between 11am and 10pm. the-berkeley.co.uk

FIT FOR A KING

As a canine tribute to our new monarch, 17 King Charles spaniels were guests at The Connaught. Despite the evident potential for chaos, The Connaught’s team of doormen took it in their stride. Walkies! the-connaught.co.uk

BITTER SWEET SYMPHONY Created by head mixologist Chris Amirault, 24 new music-inspired cocktails and three mocktails are available on the menu at The Maybourne Bar in Beverly Hills. Guests can choose one of the four categories that best suits their musical preferences. maybournebeverlyhills.com

Social Whirl The eight million followers of @cedricgrolet on Instagram can't be wrong. This season Cédric Grolet at The Berkeley is offering savoury and sweet creations, including mushroom arancini, lemon trompe l’oeil and coronation chicken brioche. the-berkeley.co.uk

Keira Knightley, Daniel Lismore and Martha Freud

116 116

Jacob Lusk

Lola Clark

Betty Bachz

Sydney Lima

Guest List A SEASON OF CELEBRATION AS WE TOAST ICONS OF FASHION, ART AND CRAFT, WHILE RAISING A GLASS TO THE NEXT GENERATION

Cindy Crawford, Edward Enninful and Sophia Neophitou

Federica Labanca

Cora Corré

Sophia Neophitou, Andreas Kronthaler and Dominic Jones The Flag Twins

10 Magazine

at Claridge’s ArtSpace Hosted by editor in chief Sophia Neophitou this ‘Tentastic retrospective’, in association with 886 Royal Mint, paid tribute to 24 years documenting culture in style. Guests included the incomparable Cindy Crawford, British Vogue editor-in-chief Edward Enninful and visionary designer Andreas Kronthaler. The crowd danced to DJs Hale Zero and enjoyed Bird in Hand wines and cocktails from Casamigos and Ciroc Vodka.

Amalie Gassmann

10 MAGAZINE: DAVE BENETT / GETTY IMAGES FOR BIRD IN HAND WINE

117

Cindy Crawford

118

James McAvoy and Lisa Liberati

Imaan Hammam and Anok Yai

Ikram Abdi Omar

Fashion Trust Arabia & Matches London’s most elegant individuals came out to honour incredible fashion talent from the Middle East and North Africa region at a glittering dinner at The Connaught. With exquisite tablescaping by Fai Khadra and a culinary experience by food artist Imogen Kwok, the atmosphere was one of joyous celebration. Winners were invited to debut their collections to the overwhelming support of fellow designers and many a stylish A-lister.

Daphne Guinness

Giles Deacon

Elizabeth Hurley and Damian Hurley

Ozwald Boateng Georgina Cohen, Pamela Crystal, Mary McCartney

Nora Lee Notzon, Emma Blythe, Bianca Gottesman

Mary McCartney and Ruth Rogers

Emma Weymouth, Marchioness of Bath

Women In Art at The Berkeley

The toast of the art world gathered for the BFAMI’s annual Women in Art Lunch, which saw Mary McCartney in conversation with The River Cafe’s Ruth Rogers.

THIS PAGE: FASHION TRUST ARABIA BY DAVE BENETT / GETTY IMAGES; WOMEN IN ART BY YOAV PICHERSK. OPPOSITE PAGE: VANDERPUMP GALA BY NIKKI RYAN; NIGHT ON THE TILES COURTESY OF THE WICK; RA ART PRIZE DAVE BENETT / GETTY; THE SITTINGS BY DAVID M. BENNET T/HODA DAVAINE /GETTY IMAGES

at The Connaught

Keira Knightley, Daniel Lismore and Martha Freud

Jonathan Burton and Naomi Davenport

Sabrina Percy and Eunice Olumide Katy Wickremesinghe and Jack Freud

A Night On The Tiles at Claridge’s ArtSpace Café

The newly opened ArtSpace Café played host to artist and ceramicist Martha Freud in celebration of London Craft Week. A roll call of culturally curious guests gathered for the evening as marble tabletops were transformed into decadent artist worktops.

Mario Lopez and Courtney Lopez

The Vanderpump Dog Foundation Gala at The Maybourne Beverly Hills

Pandora Vanderpump Sabo, Lisa Vanderpump and Lance Bass

Julian Knox aka Julianknxx and Emma Dabiri

Roksanda Illic and Michael Craig-Martin

Claridge’s and The RA Art Prize

Canines and cocktails proved an irresistible combination at this annual gala. A candlelit cocktail hour started proceedings before dinner, dancing and an auction hosted by Mario Lopez.

at Claridge’s

A match made in fine art heaven, the new partnership between The Royal Academy of Arts and Claridge’s was a moment that needed to be celebrated in style. To Claridge’s ballroom then, where art and fashion royalty raised a glass to a future generation of artists.

Idris Khan and Georgina Cohen

Francesca Hayward

Alexi Lubomirski and Sheila Atim

Eric Underwood, Virginia Bates and Erin O’Connor

The Sittings

at Claridge’s ArtSpace

A suitably A-list attendance for Harper’s Bazaar’s exhibition by star photographer Alexi Lubomirski, featuring his most celebrated works at Claridge’s ArtSpace.

David Downton and Christopher Kane

120

DAVID DOWNTON DRAWS

Dame Joan Collins

D

ILLUSTRATION BY DAVID DOWNTON

ame Joan Collins sweeps into Claridge’s on a chilly November morning in 2020.

London is between Covid lockdowns, but still the lobby is eerily empty save for construction workers in hi-vis jackets picking up the pace on the hotel’s multi-million-pound renovation.

Joan is resplendent in sequins and a pink feather hat. 'Not exactly a day look,' she observes, with a smile. But perfect for a portrait, the latest of the dozen or more we have created over the past two decades.

Afterwards, lunch, served in the suite.

Salmon, avocado, a glass of Chablis. We talk about stalled projects and interrupted lives and have a lively political debate. 'Are you a leftie?' she says, her eyes narrowing.

She is fun, forthright and loyal. Not to say indomitable. This autumn she publishes her umpteenth memoir – Behind The Shoulder Pads: Tales I Tell My Friends – and goes on tour with a one-woman show.

A movie is in the pipeline. The last star.

David Downton is artist in residence at Claridge's. An exhibition by David Downton 'Théâtre de la Mode' runs 15–26 November 2023 at Cromwell Place. daviddownton.com

Upholstered Pool Floats www.oliverjameslilos.com

NATURE’S RARE JEWELS