covered in vegetation that gives it the appearance of a giant
tional example of Roman engineering. While it is, naturally,
of the French Air Force Academy. Isle-sur-la-Sorgue is criss-
number of locals who had come to picnic by the Gardon
green mushroom and a walled vieille ville. It is also the home crossed by canals of the river Sorgue; the town’s numerous
flowered bridges and nine mossy waterwheels (of which there were once 70!) add to its unique charm. I visited the town on a Sunday in order to see its famous Provençal market.
My hosts at the converted mill in Noves suggested
a major tourist attraction, I was particularly struck by the
River, which runs under the aqueduct, and swim in its cool, blue water. After my own dip in the Gardon, I headed over to Uzès (technically in the Languedoc region of France)
where I discovered a delightful, well-preserved town with an interesting history, as well as lovely shops and restau-
that I visit Les Baux, a medieval hilltop village crowned
rants and a beautiful, tree-lined, traffic-free main square.
route” instead of the major thoroughfares. I was glad for
some of the other places I visited in Provence), Uzès began
town’s daily influx of tourists. My route took me through
as the fifth century that was, at least temporarily, embraced
num, and on a leafy, circuitous mountain road that spit me
were heavily Protestant during the Wars of Religion. Ad-
with a castle, in time for sunset and that I take the “back
Somewhat “off the beaten path” (certainly as compared with
their suggestion, as the timing allowed me to avoid the
as a Roman settlement and had a Jewish population as early
St-Remy-de-Provence, past the Gallo-Roman ruins at Gla-
by the Catholic hierarchy; the town and surrounding regions
out into a series of dramatic red rock formations reminis-
ditionally, the duke of Uzès held a position of great prominence among French nobility. The town
cent of the American southwest and that
itself was lively without being overly busy,
afforded an exceptional view of Les Baux.
The sinking sun cast a peaceful glow over the town, a major force in 11th century
southern France, and the hilltop into which
I wonder ed if a nd how liv ing in a
it is nestled, and I wondered if and how
place filled w ith
and history colored the way its inhabitants
h istory color ed th e
living in a place filled with such beauty viewed the world.
Long fascinated by the French experience
of leading modern lives surrounded by vis-
such beau t y a nd way its inh abita n ts v iew ed th e world.
was something interesting to see or, better yet, something delicious to eat or drink!
I suppose I should mention that the
flower-throwing incident back in Antibes wasn’t exactly a spontaneous response
on behalf of the Antibois to my winning, midwestern ways or my admiration for all things francophone. As it happens,
I arrived on the day of Antibes’ Bataille
ible reminders of the multiple layers of history from which this modernity was born,
and it seemed that at every corner there
des fleurs, an annual festival that takes
I was eager to visit Vaison-la-Romaine, a city built on and
place in various locations on the French Riviera and dur-
medieval village. The Romans ruins, of which only a slice
a pared-down version of the Rose Bowl Parade) throw
them, are impressive, well-presented and generally well-
collect enough for a bouquet or two, and sometimes more.
crossed over the 2,000-year-old bridge built by the Romans
always bring out the best in all people.). I must also admit
dered its cobblestone streets and wondered about practical
idea what was going on. As I was at the very beginning of
around a prosperous Roman city and topped with a fortified
ing which people on floats adorned with flowers (think
are exposed as the bulk of the modern town was built over
throngs of carnations, etc., at spectators who in turn rush to
preserved, and the accompanying museum is informative. I
(I discovered that the prospect of free flowers does not
and into the Ville-Haute, the medieval town, where I mean-
that, when I first arrived at the Bataille des fleurs, I had no
aspects of the daily lives of its inhabitants.
the parade route with nearly no one before me, I initially
On my final day in France, I headed west from Noves to
did not dare try to catch the flowers with which I was ef-
the famous Roman aqueduct Pont du Gard and then on to
fectively being pelted because I didn’t know that such a
Built by the Romans in roughly 19 B.C., it is part of a 31-mile
on quickly enough, though, and was grateful for the flow-
water from a spring in Uzès to an important Roman colony
Association for its generosity that enabled me to take this
of the best-preserved Roman aqueducts, it is also an excep-
—By Megan Ryan, Chair, Modern Languages
the town of Uzès. The Pont du Gard is simply remarkable.
thing was not only allowed but also encouraged! I caught
structure, most of which is underground, that transported
ers that came my way. I am equally grateful to the Parents
in what is now modern-day Nîmes. The highest and one
exceptional trip.
Spring 2013
47