CLUTCH issue 24
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CLUTCH editor-in-chief meagan smith
editor-in-chief assistant megan harris
creative director sam de oliveira
creative assistant caitlin madlinger
natalie cevallos director alexandra griffin director raquel reyes director ashley voet director
jacob patel director james hurley assistant christine watson assistant
director styling morgan mccoll director lexi ludwig director katya anleu lindsey prendergast director leah feiler jordan glover assistant loren valdivieso brand lexi fleming krissy hosman director reagan nowell director beauty runway
lexie berrett director saige cole director hannah boucher assistant regine dawson assistant
aaron depaula director caitlyn daley assistant justin degen assistant
matthew bodden director hannah leahy assistant kacey sheppard assistant meredith abberger assistant staff writers laura kirkpatrick samantha lane madi schultz teaghan skulszki anna wood
riley pryor director lily dominguez assistant ashlie santiago assistant
taylor charmatz director emily malfitano assistant jordan long assistant
emory parkins director catherine knetsch director elena ciaccio assistant mackenzie greene assistant sarah kalis assistant jamie freas assistant cover by lauren amanda editor picture: julian randall
lifestyle 7 past
meet the editors
Running Clutch is something we would have never guessed we could’ve achieved when we started as staff writers our freshman year of college. As hungry 18 year olds wanting to build our résumé with editorial experience, we hesitantly offered our thoughts and opinions, anxious to get our foot in the door. As time went on, we learned to be confident and assertive within the staff. We experienced multiple roles and worked under many different styles of leadership, which prepared us for our next positions on Clutch. We had seen it all: the evolution, growth, and reconstruction of the magazine. This is what ultimately led to us becoming Editor-in-Chief and Creative Director— something we had built our whole college career around. We were on Cloud 9. Back in January of this year, we began thinking of the direction we wanted to take the magazine when it was our time just a few short months later. Sam had a vision of a futuristic, silver photoshoot (which you’ll see later in the magazine), and after some brainstorming, our concept was born: Past, Present, and Future. It was crucial for us to heavily
pay tribute to the past issues of Clutch, as well as our history on the magazine. We wanted to express our gratitude to our predecessors and the creative energy that they put forth, which paved the way for us. One of our directors, Riley, came to us with an idea of a Runway style photoshoot, which would bring an avant-garde flair to Clutch that it’s never had before. A flair that you’d see on runways across the world. Pairing that along with rebranding ourselves and challenging our directors to think outside the box with location and clothing has set the tone for this issue. As for the future— Clutch is something that will always be near and dear to us. We want to see it grow and thrive and have full confidence that it will only get better with time. Our goal for the next issue and for issues to come is that we break the mold of what was once “Clutch Magazine” and push for a more inclusive and diverse subject matter. These roles have taught us a multitude of lessons and have brought us through our fair share of adversity. We spent many late nights planning ways to improve and solving problems even the most seasoned planners couldn’t
have seen coming. Ensuring that Clutch would see great success was always on the forefront of our minds, oftentimes putting it as a higher priority than our schoolwork (sorry mom!), and we’d do it all over again. This has been the most rewarding experience. There is nothing more satisfying than having someone see the Clutch sticker on the back of our phones and having them ask what it is, just so we can explain the identity we’ve found in this publication. We are thrilled to print this and move onto our next issue, striving to bigger and better things. Thank you to our amazing assistants, Megan and Caitlin, for the endless help and pep talks, as well as the rest of our staff for accepting the challenge and executing it better than we could have imagined. Here’s to looking to the next issue. xx, Meagan and Sam
DIRECTORS: LEXI LUDWIG, LINDSEY PRENDERGAST ASSISTANT: JORDAN GLOVER PHOTOGRAPHER: KIANA GOVIND
DIRECTORS: LEXIE BERRETT, SAIGE COLE ASSISTANTS: REGINE DAWSON, HANNAH BOUCHER PHOTOGRAPHER: GIANNA STERN
By: Teaghan Skulszki Fashion is infinite. It never dies, it’s reborn over each decade, losing and gaining experience from past trends and movements. Madyson Mahler, an Instagram and fashion entrepreneur took the evolution of fashion and made a business out of it. Madyson’s Instagram account, Retro Threads by Mady (@retrothreadsbymady) is taking Florida State by storm. You might see her T-shirts on your feed and worn at Saturday tailgates. For Madyson, what began as fun hobby turned into a company. She started her business after spring cleaning left her with too many clothes in her closet, which she then decided to sell on Instagram. Within the first day, every item sold. It was only a matter of time until her page became a thrifting sensation. Madyson takes the clothes of someone’s past and personalizes them to be a part of our future. “I thrift mainly from Goodwill,” she says, “but there are more options in Central Florida. I try to go at least once a day.” When she takes the clothes home, she transforms them into trendy crop tops and sometimes distressed tees. The clothes vary from old football shirts to name brands like Calvin and Adidas. It’s not only t-shirts, but sweaters and statement pieces too, serving the needs of every college woman’s closet on a budget price. What is unique about Madyson’s shop is the platform on which she chooses to sell her clothes; one that we all know and love, Instagram. Instagram serves as a great base for networking in the 21st century, and Mady says it has allowed her to truly connect with her customers even more than Etsy or Poshmark could. But the benefits of Instagram go even beyond those connections; the layout of Instagram itself is more suitable for her company, helping her sell her products as quickly as possible. “I can’t keep inventory long enough,” Mady says. “Instagram is fast and my products are fast-selling.” The competition of commenting to get a product first is competitive and appealing. Before she is going to release new items she posts them on her story, and from there on, the countdown for her customers begins. The repurposing and rebranding of clothes is a
@retrothreadsbymady fashion evolution. Thrifting an outfit means being able to give it a second life. “A lot of clothing is perception, it’s how you see it,” says Mady. “It’s how you see it styled or worn, or altered. For me, I think one of the things I’ve always loved is looking at something and thinking, oh I can change that, I could put my own twist on that. Thrifting and branding allows you to do that.” In a time when society places an emphasis on reducing waste and recycling, thrifting is becoming more and more popular. It is an easy way to save money and skip a pricey trip to the mall. You still have an opportunity to find all the name brands that you love and even vintage unique versions of those brands. Thrifting leads you on a treasure hunt to find a unique, one-of-a-kind piece that you won’t find at Forever 21 or Pac-Sun. Thrifting allows us to express our individuality and creativity in everyday clothing. It takes dedication and consistency to grow a business – but Mady is tenacious. When asking her advice to other entrepreneurs looking to star their own business Mady says, “I know it’s cliché, but go for it. Don’t think it all has to be perfect right away. It took a while to figure it all out, and people are so much more understanding than you think so it’s almost like a community.” Mady has turned one woman’s trash into another’s treasure. Feed the creator that inside you, set that idea on fire, and watch it spark into flames, just as Mady did.
THe Power of
NOsTALGIA NOsTALGIA By: Jordan Glover Walk into virtually any Urban Outfitters store and you’ll recognize the array of timelessly reminiscent vinyls and Polaroid cameras, which instantly inflicts a wave of one of my favorite sensations: nostalgia. You might then be transported back to modern reality once your attention draws to records of The Weeknd and Lady Gaga, and cameras with selfie features, but nonetheless, it’s the same principle. I’m not alone in this fan club of strolls down memory lane—nostalgia is a widespread fascination and driving force that has taken the media and entertainment world by storm. Why are we so obsessed with this yearning for the past? As evident through arguably all mechanisms of everything, the explanation is rooted in science. Nostalgia, or state of sentimentality toward a feeling or momentous experience from a previous point in time, instills in us a sense of social connectedness, according to a 2012 study in the Journal of Human Research. An inherent comfort manifests itself within the certainty we have with what has already been done and accomplished in the past, which then fosters a greater hope for the future. It demonstrates to us that we have the potential for growth, since we have already witnessed it occur before. The established nomenclature was contrived in 1688 by Swiss physician Johannes Hofer. The concept originally bore a negative connotation, as he equated it with mal du pays, or “homesickness” as translated in French. He deemed nostalgia a debilitating medical condition, and a psychopathological disorder that parallels closely with paranoia. Over time, it has evolved as a catalyst for improving moods, humanity, self-esteem—and advertising.
climates, which have never been more rampant or dynamic. They are dubbed the “good old days” for a reason; the return of old-timey drive-in movie theaters and Atari gaming systems reminds us of simpler times, back when humanity was not as polarized, our governments were not entirely corrupt, and the world was not in a perpetual state of conflict. Bringing the old in with the new makes us feel as though we can relive these more pleasant moments, with the hope that we can somehow bring them back permanently and facilitate progress. Facebook has algorithms designated for consistently flooding our timelines with memories from the past, and there are currently over 445 million photos on Instagram containing the hashtag #TBT or #throwbackThursday. Coke still continues to sell its soda in old-fashioned glass bottles, knowing very well that they could use aluminum cans as an alternative. Netflix and other entertainment services constantly reboot old television series such as Fuller House, as well as classic films, and countless musical artists have performed covers of old songs to keep them alive. Nostalgia sells—Forbes Magazine even coined a term for the strategy, known as “nostalgia marketing.” These large corporations take advantage of their audience’s obsession with retro roots. I have always been a slight skeptic to the phrase “don’t look back–you’re not going that way.” While indeed true to an extent, you must reflect on the past in order to move forward, being careful not to repeat history, but rather improve it.
Fashion culture expert and author of The History of Fashion Journalism, Kate Nelson Best, says that “we look to the past as a way of either resisting what’s going on presently, or as a way of anchoring things in a more stable environment.” Her insight is especially ubiquitous during our current age, in light of our heightened political and social
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The Evolution of a Brand By: Madison Schulz What goes around comes around, and in the fashion industry, it’s no different. Once a staple in college bookstores, Champion’s popular ﬂeece sweatshirts and sweatpants are now seen being sported by some of the biggest names in pop culture, including Kylie Jenner, Rihanna, and Chance the Rapper. Champion’s athleisure branding brings us back to our roots, guiding us into the realm of working-class fashion. It’s a brand that is seen both in high-fashion on the runway and around campus while walking to class. The brand made its debut in 1919 and has been a prominent staple of every generation throughout its lifespan of nearly 100 years. Champion more recently renewed itself as the musthave brand of millennials, though it has always been a favorite with younger generations. The brand was started by two brothers from Rochester, New York who took their passion for sportswear and began creating products for Michigan University. Word about the brand traveled fast, and the Feinbloom brothers were soon shipping out their products to the military for use in their P.E. classes. The royal blue and scarlet red “C” logo was ﬁrst seen stitched onto the bottom left sleeve of their sweatshirts in 1950, and Champion made history within the fashion industry with their hooded sweatshirts and double-sided t-shirts in 1970. Although Champion acts as a staple for a range of sports teams, including all twenty-seven NBA teams, the athletic brand has made its way back to the top of the fashion food chain. How did this brand go from one of the most well-known brands in realm of athletic wear, down to the racks of Walmart, and in recent months, back to the top of the fashion industry? The answer is simple: what is trending now will sell, no matter where it came from
or how long the company has been around for. Champion brings us that feeling of nostalgia that we do not ﬁnd often within the clothes we wear. It’s no shock that vintage clothes are the new trend, and although Walmart still sells Champion, higher-end stores such as Urban Outﬁtters sell the better quality, reverse-weave items that are popular now – but for higher prices. The brand was once known as having close ties to the working-class society, which is most likely why we used to see it in discount stores such as Walmart. However, with working-class attire being a major inﬂuence in today’s fashion industry, it’s no wonder that we are seeing the clothing once again returning to the shelves.
ONE Champion was founded in 1919, specializing in collegiate sports apparel. Champion has dressed football, basketballm, baseball teams, and more, even after its popularization as street apparel. The comapny has partnered with the National College Athletic Association (NCAA) and the National Football League (NFL). TWO Champion patented their reverse-weave technology in 1952 after fifteen years of development. The reverse-weave line is still extremely popular today, sold at stores like Urban outfitters. THREE Champion reamins one of the most popular athlesiure brands today, maintaining the same style and technology as thirty and fourty years ago. The brand appeals to many people due to the versatility of their clothing, whether referring to affordability or to style.
“It’s a brand that is seen both in high fashion on the runway and aroud campus walking to class.” The clothing companies producing today’s high-end and street fashion have been drawing on past trends for many seasons now, making it no surprise that people have taken the step towards wearing retro athleisure brands. Champion brings us back to simple times, in which no-nonsense, comfortable clothes were celebrated. Its sweatshirts, sweatpants, and small, royal blue and red logo gives us that feeling of nostalgia that is often found in the past fashion trends that have made their way back to the top.
POST RAve RAVE Depression
DIRECTOR: RILEY PRYOR ASSISTANTS: ASHLIE SANTIAGO LILY DOMINGUEZ PHOTOGRAPHER: JULIAN RANDALL
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It’s no secret that the fashion industry is often cyclical and takes inspiration from both the past and the future. We see trends come and go as each generation passes, and we often see similarities in trends, even straight up vintage styles, reborn every fashion cycle. Usually, these recurring trends are timeless pieces that are fairly wearable and accessible for everyday styling, but this time, neon is making a blinding comeback. As a trend, you might not expect neon to keep coming back: it’s loud, bright, and can be pretty hard to just wear casually without capturing the center of attention. Nonetheless, these flashy colors have started popping up in runways and on celebrities the past few months and will continue to trickle-down the fashion ladder to fast-fashion brands. Neon first resurged with Prada’s Fall/Winter 2018 collection. Prada came out with several marketing waves from the runway to a star-studded marketing campaign. The runway collection, which featured a collection of looks filled with nylon, plastic-like materials, neon lights and brightly colored accessories, also rolled out with more wearable fanny packs and handbags. Alongside this runway, the fashion house released an extensive marketing campaign on Instagram featuring high profile models and celebrities
such as Sarah Paulson and RuPaul Drag Race’s Violet Chachki strutting and posing in a neon lit landscape. This collection reintroduced neon into the world of fashion. Other fashion houses such as Jeremy Scott, Prabal Gurung and Marc Jacobs have also contributed to this neon wave. A little after Prada’s neon-centric collection, celebrities started to follow along with this trend, donning brightly colored ensembles on the red carpet and on Instagram. Of course, as the face of the Prada collection, Sarah Paulson wore a neon yellow dress to the Ocean’s 8 premiere straight from the Prada runway. Blake Lively has been sporting neon pant suits, Bella Hadid is wearing neon pink and orange, and even queen Rihanna is sporting it, and including bright pops of color in her Fenty runway shows. Everybody’s favorite fashion trendsetter, Kim Kardashian, has also been recently seen in stylish neon looks, from a pink cocktail dresses to a bright green two-piece. Even Kylie has donned some [questionable] highlighter hair in the past. If we know anything, it’s that if the Kardashians are doing it… so are we. Neon is here to stay for a hot moment and knowing the fashion industry, it’s only a matter of time before we walk into Forever 21 and find neon and nylon on every rack.
By: James Hurley
FASHION PIONEER: IRIS VAN HERPEN By: Katya Anleu
Recognized as one of fashion’s most talented and innovative designers, Iris van Herpen came into the picture when fashion met technology. She mastered the art of pushing the boundaries of fashion designs and the combination of traditional methods with atypical garment construction. This Dutch designer graduated with a degree in fashion design in her hometown of Amsterdam; it became clear to her that she would combine her fashion studies with her passion for classical ballet to create a brand that focused on movement. The designer writes on her website, “For me, fashion is an expression of art that is very closely related to me and to my body. It’s an artistic expression of identity with desire, moods and cultural setting.” Herpen’s collections are a fuse of technology and traditional couture craftsmanship which she uses to translate her love for nature and architecture. Her overall intent is to blend the past with the future and create a distinct version of the present. Her title of innovative creator stems from her fascination and ease with 3D printing; she is one of the first to employ 3D printing as her principal medium in her garments. Herpen’s designs are brought to life when they interact with the human body in perfect harmony. In other words, when Herpen’s designs are strutted down a catwalk, the human movement transforms a rather abstract design into what she considers alive, fluid and delicate installations. Movement is an essential principle in her designs due to how the body and the garment behave together when in motion. Iris van Herpen is hosted by Paris Fashion Week every couture week to display her one of a kind designs to the world. Her latest collection, Syntopia, was inspired by the living tree bridges in India and how nature collaborates with
architecture. She executes a new approach to garment construction by mixing techniques of cutting, weaving, folding and growing into a process that goes beyond traditional clothes making. She employs the use of chronophotography: an antique technique from the Victorian Era that captures movement in several frames of print, to break apart traditional draping of fabric and instead create slightly shifted layers to mimic an abstract and organic drape. Iris van Herpen continuously experiments with unconventional materials, innovative techniques and advanced technologies. When she realized the limitations fabric had from being manipulated to the desired structures and forms, Herpen decided to add various atypical materials to her list for usage to create her extraordinary designs.
Beauty is Pain By: Lexi Ludwig Over the past few years, the cosmetic industry has taken a nosedive in a completely different direction than what it once was. An industry that was once very limited in its selections has opened their doors to providing products for all different types of customers, including vegan-based, cruelty-free consumers. Animal testing in the cosmetic industry has always been a widely discussed topic in the United States, especially since the European Union banned the sale of animal-tested products back in 2013. The topic of discussion has come back in the limelight, though more recently since California has independently banned the sale of animal-tested products. California’s decision to ban animal-tested products, which will go into effect in 2020, made big waves in the fashion and cosmetic industry. Being the ﬁrst state to independently take a stand against animal testing, they are hoping to create a domino effect that will encourage other states to follow suit. While this bill to ban animal testing is not the end game to stop animal cruelty, it is a step in the right direction. Now the real question is, what will the rest of the United States do in response? Many consumers, activists, and beauty bloggers are urging the United States to follow suit like so many others before them and put an end to testing on animals in the cosmetic industry. There are so many successful beauty brands in the current market that focus on being not only cruelty-free but also vegan-friendly while maintaining a consumer-friendly price point. In fact, many consumers are completely unaware that they are even supporting brands that are cruelty-free. Here are a few dope cruelty-free brands that you can support and look fashionable while doing so.
JEFFREE STAR COSMETICS: Jeffree Star Cosmetics is run by makeup guru and youtube beauty blogger Jeffree Star. Jeffree Star Cosmetics is a proud cruelty-free, vegan-friendly brand that offers unique makeup at a great price for the quality and amount of product you receive. JS Cosmetics prides itself on the fact that they are 100% cruelty-free, even doing research on their second-hand manufacturers to make sure they are as well. Jeffree Star Cosmetics is a brand that earned recognition through social media apps like Instagram and Youtube and is commonly used in the LGBT world for drag performances because of the bright colors and pigment payoff. BEAUTYBLENDER: A Beautyblender is a unique hydrophilic sponge that absorbs water to help apply makeup in a natural, blended way, but Beautyblender isn’t typically a brand people think of when considering cruelty-free, vegan-friendly products but it totally is. Animal testing can happen on products that help us apply our makeup just as much as
the makeup itself, so we love that Beautyblender doesn’t perform any type of testing on animals to make their beauty sponges. ELF: ELF cosmetics just helps prove the point that a brand can be cruelty-free and not break the bank. ELF is a completely affordable brand that ranges from one to ten dollars and does not test on animals at all. ELF is also known as a brand that adapts well to the online world and has a great social media presence with their customers. If you are looking for a more affordable way to ease into cruelty-free makeup, this is a great option! The cosmetic industry is constantly evolving and it is hard to keep up with trends constantly coming and going. The goal of makeup is to enhance someone’s beauty and make them feel like the best version of themselves, but at what cost? People say beauty is pain, but you have to consider who gets hurt in the process.
The Face of By: Hannah Boucher
In 1972, Gucci became one of the first fashion houses to branch into timepieces, creating successful, iconic models that combined contemporary spirit and tradition, innovation and craftsmanship, fashion and elegance. Further reinforcing Gucci's reputation as an influential and progressive fashion brand, the new and contemporary vision injected by Creative Director Alessandro Michele fully embraces the fashion codes, innovation, and contemporary attitude of the House, thereby further enhancing its status as one of the world's most desirable
luxury fashion brands and a definitive 21st century statement of contemporary coolness. In spring 2018, Gucci debuted their first campaign with the style icon and showman, Harry Styles. Styles is a long time Gucci-lover, dating all the way back to his break from the boy band scene, so it comes as no surprise that the gender-neutral advocate quickly became Gucci’s latest muse – boldly unveiling a line of custom Gucci suits every tour night for his first solo album. Name any outlandish, bold style, and you can bet that Harry had worn it. Plus, Gucci is no brand for the weak of heart – or confidence – making Harry Styles and the Gucci fashion house a perfect pair. Harry’s collection of custom Gucci’s includes Joker-esque plaid, velvet, leopard print, bejeweled baby pink, and limitless amounts of jacquard and floral prints. The first issue of the two-part Gucci spread appeared in early March for Gucci’s Fall 2018 Men’s tailoring campaign. From three-piece suits, to a mohair jacket, and even a suit adorned with New York Yankees patches, the campaign does not
disappoint. And as if the iconic Gucci suits or the striking Harry Styles was not enough, Alessandro Michele added farm animals to the shoot to give off a boy-next-door vibe. While the first issue of the campaign broke the glass ceiling on everything society could have wished for from a Styles and Gucci collaboration, they were overwhelmingly unprepared for the second issue of the campaign. Released in September of 2018, Gucci’s Cruise 2019 tailoring collection brings the campaign outside to the whimsical and blissful scene of northern Rome. Features of this issue include symbolism from the innocence of the lamb and piglet as well as the expression of the layering of jewelry and use of the cross on Styles. This issue contrasts from the previous issue in the sense that it clearly portrays the gender fluidity that high fashion is beginning to embrace, of which Harry Styles has been a longtime advocate and supporter. As if being the poster boy for Gucci and owning your own line of custom Gucci suits was not enough, in early October the concept for the Met Gala 2019 was announced to be "Camp: Notes on Fashion," and Harry Styles was named as one of the co-chairs. The gala will fittingly be sponsored by Gucci this year, a brand that has become known in recent years for its whimsical and ostentatious style under the creative direction of Alessandro Michele.
DIRECTOR: TAYLOR CHARMATZ ASSISTANTS: EMILY MALFITANO JORDAN LONG PHOTOGRAPHER: JULIAN RANDALL
BEAU If you know anything about the makeup industry, you know the name Jeffree Star. Jeffree has always been the person to look for when it comes to juicy drama. In the past, not only has he feuded with other gurus, but even with entire makeup brands. One of his more famous feuds is with his long-time ex-friend Kat Von D. Kat made allegations against him, saying she could not continue her friendship with Jeffree because of his, “drug-use, racism, and bullying,” which Jeffree has since denied. Kat Von D went on to explain how she was going to remove her popular liquid lipstick she named after Jeffree off of her site; which has still yet to be done since the famous argument back in 2016. Since then Kat and Jeffree do not collaborate together and are not on speaking terms. Even though this feud is lukewarm this was not the last time Jeffree was accused of racism. In October of 2018, Thomas Halbert, another beauty
YOUTUBERS By: Samantha Lane
guru, made a YouTube video accusing Jeffree of racism which ended in a large twitter fight among the two which lead to Thomas apologizing and actually asking Jeffree to squash the fight and do a video together. Thomas then went on to tell other gurus like Manny Gutierrez and Laura Lee everything Jeffree and Thomas spoke about over text and of course as always, Jeffree found out. Another twitter fight broke out where Jeffree exposed all of the messages with Thomas claiming he will, “never have Thomas’ trust ever again.” The two YouTubers have not spoken since the argument. In more recent news, famous youtuber Shane Dawson has released a YouTube documentary-series all about the “secret life” of Jeffree Star and goes deep into the guru’s life, company, and identity. In other drama, Jacklyn Hill, a famous YouTuber as well, has recently claimed she wants to, “quit YouTube because of constant criticism.” Jacklyn recently just re-released her collaboration with Morphe, revealing her improved “vault collection”. If you follow the beauty industry, you would know that Jacklyn released this collaboration with Morphe months ago but was forced to recall all of them due to horrible YouTube reviews involving the consistency of the pigments. Jaclyn was bombarded with criticism from her subscribers and she apologized in a 45-minute video explaining what had happened. Since then, the palettes have been released for the second time but instead of receiving
criticism on the actual makeup itself, she received comments about how she was ‘selling out’ because she was using too many makeup products made by Morphe. Whether Jaclyn will continue her YouTube career is still up in the air but her latest comment stated, “It’s not fun, it’s not fun anymore. It’s not fun for you guys and it’s not fun for me. I’ve always said that if YouTube isn’t fun, I’m not going to do it.” Last but not least, Laura Lee. Laura Lee has been part of the YouTube beauty community for quite some time now and has a huge following. With a huge following always comes the constant hovering and digging from fans and trolls, these followers are always watching and analyzing her every move. This caught up with Laura when tweets from her account in 2012 were dug up for everyone to see. These tweets were extremely racist. Obviously, this sent massive uproar all over several social media platforms and Laura Lee has even been dropped from various major sponsors such as Ulta, Boxycharm, and Diff Eyewear. Laura Lee has since posted apology videos on nearly all of her social media platforms, but the response from the community doesn’t look to forgiving for Laura at all. This is just the tip of the beauty iceberg as there is surely plenty more drama and scandal in the beauty guru community that we have yet to uncover.
Models vs. Inﬂuencers
Who Runs the Fashion Industry? By: Laura Kirkpatrick So, you may be asking…what even is an inﬂuencer? By deﬁnition, an inﬂuencer is an individual who “inﬂuences” a person or crowd. This term in the world of fashion, however, has a much more identiﬁable meaning. Fashion inﬂuencers, as we know, are the it-girls ﬂooding our Instagram feeds on a day to day basis, posing in their perfectly styled (and often gifted) outﬁts. In the past year, we have seen a colossal amount of inﬂuencers emerge and it is crystal clear that because of this, the industry is undergoing a monumental change. For the ﬁrst time in our generation, these social-media-celebrities are being selected over models for brand endorsements and collaborations. Ever since inﬂuencers entered the spotlight within our timelines, they have been consistently building relationships with their audiences. But why? This is because they brand themselves as unique, fashion-forward individuals, yet they are relatable. They go to the same places we go, wear the same pieces we long for and many want to be them. In opposition to this, the dynamic of the inﬂuencer-consumer relationship has recently shifted, allowing inﬂuencers to utilize their platforms as a business opportunity. According to digital intel platform SimilarWeb, four out of every ﬁve mobile visits to Nordstrom.com are coming from referral trafﬁc driven by RewardStyle, an inﬂuencer network of over 20,000. On top of those numbers, RewardStyle’s inﬂuencer program also drives 34% of Revolve’s referral trafﬁc and 31% of luxury online retailer, Net-APorter. Basically, fashion inﬂuencers are driving sales and increasing trafﬁc across the board through these endorsements, advertisements
and collaborations. By campaigning in this season’s trends and keeping up to date with emerging designers, inﬂuencers are drawing attention to fashion’s main attraction. On the other end of the spectrum are the supermodels of the industry. These individuals are also considered highly inﬂuential, and while the two categories coincide, they will forever remain somewhat parallel. The approach that supermodels use to portray themselves while receiving brand endorsements is much different than inﬂuencers. Embellishing on this statement, inﬂuencers are constantly shooting and distributing content to post on their Instagram(s) in order to enhance their careers… could you imagine? These posts range anywhere from street style photos in SoHo to lounging beachside in Tulum, all while sporting the latest brands and trends. This does not discredit the work that goes into each curated photo, but it is what makes each inﬂuencer unique. In opposition, most supermodels spend less time creating and capturing the perfect shot and spend more time walking down the runway. They work full speed on campaigns season to season while essentially doing the same job as an inﬂuencer, but at a higher compensation level with a larger, more reputable platform. While it may be argued that inﬂuencers and models saturate different market segments, the industry will always depend on them to push fashion, set trends and invite a little bit of envy to into our lives. Whether you like it or not, these are the individuals shattering ceilings, breaking barriers, and leaving their footprint in this era of fashion.
This is because they brand themselves as unique, fashion-forward individuals, yet they are relatable. They go to the same places we go, wear the same pieces we long for and many want to be them.
By: Teaghan Skulszki In the past decade, the revolution of green and eco-friendly products is at an all-time high, however, when we say we’re going green here at Clutch we aren’t talking about
recycling. We’re talking about high fashion, Kush and the millennial culture. Marijuana is in. It may be the most contentious trend yet, but it’s a trend we are loving. I’ve even seen it in our coffee, but no, we’re talking about seeing it in your beauty products. The first question people usual pose when trying CBD products is “can this get me high?” and the answer to that is absolutely not. Cannabinoid is one component you can find in the cannabis plant along with THC. The difference is that THC will make you want to knock out on the couch and dive into a bowl of ice cream while watching six episodes of the office on a continuous loop. According to California’s very own Chronic Therapy Dispensary, Marijuana is
the dried flower bud of the Cannabis plant while Cannabinoid is any of the various chemical constituents of cannabis or marijuana, but it’s the benefit of the CBD oil which is taking the famous plant we all know and love from the darkness of political disapproval to the front page of beauty magazines. The two effects CBD is recognized for is pain relief and anti-inflammation. The reason you see CBD in so many face serums is due to its anti-inflammatory qualities, aka it fights aging and acne all in one. One of our favorites is Aphorism’s Clear Sailing Balancing Face Oil. Made with virgin organic hemp seed oil that balanced with golden jojoba, red raspberry seeds and green tea will create a fresh glow or base under makeup. If you’re looking for a pain reliever you can head to Pure CBD Vapors for their Lavender Rub. This balm can be used for various types of pain, from muscle aches to headaches. It is combined with CBD, mint, and eucalyptus. Not only that but it’s also vegan and GMO free. Another noteworthy CBD product is Lord Jones’ Body Lotion, it features their signature fragrance with notes of sage, mint, and green citrus. The moisturizing lotion “has been crafted to deliver unparalleled absorption in an extra strength formula for sore muscles, joint
pain, and skin conditions,” (lordjones.com). Other products you’ll see combined with CBD that you can find at your local beauty stores are lip balm, skin balm, bath salts, eye serum and even mascara. CBD is completely legal and the reason we are seeing more and more of it is because of the loosening legalities on Cannabis (medical in 29 states and recreational in nine). According to Allure magazine, people didn’t pay attention to the product before, but because of the new legislative decisions it is becoming apart of mainstream media as cannabis is as well. The stigma is fading and cannabis is normalizing; we are in the age of a marijuanissance, and the grass is certainly greener on the other side.
the future is fluid
DIRECTOR: AARON DEPAULA ASSISTANTS: CAITLYN DALEY JUSTIN DEGEN PHOTOGRAPHER: MIKAYLA GAMBLE
BEYOND GENDERS By: Samantha Lane Whether you are aware of it or not, we are diving into a new era of fashion with zero boundaries. Society has been shifting towards this movement for some time now and it is ﬁnally starting to appear in the fashion industry. Redeﬁning what masculinity and femininity mean in the fashion world. Apparel is now being viewed as gender neutral and is starting to get rid of the stereotypes that go along with certain pieces. We are starting to see more and more fashion ﬂuid clothing ﬂooding the streets and this is only just the beginning. According to Vogue magazine, fashion is ultimately shifting towards a new era of gender ﬂuidity among millennials. This statement was supported by clothing stores such as Zara which released an “ungendered clothing line”, and H&M which introduced their unisex denim line almost a year ago. Companies like these are realizing the change in fashion and are quickly adjusting to these trends. This trend is not only being led by clothing companies but also by well-known celebrities. Jaden Smith was seen in a Louis Vuitton campaign wearing a pleated skirt alongside females who were also wearing similar attire. This pushed the boundaries of Louis Vuitton’s brand by erasing gender stereotypes when it comes to fashion. Jaden Smith is not the only one breaking borders of fashion; Harry Styles has been followed for wearing “feminine” patterns such as roses and other bright ﬂoral pat-
terned suits which has become a very popular trend among both males and females. One of the biggest celebrities who support gender ﬂuid fashion is actor Nico Tortorella. He is an LGBTQ activist and was designed two beautiful dresses by Christian Siriano which were worn by Tortorella on the red carpet of the GLAAD rising stars event. During an interview at the event, Tortorella stated, “Now let it be said, it is not more comfortable to
wear these clothes, but I look f****** awesome. And it shouldn’t matter,” which got such positive feedback from many people who also support this shift into gender neutral clothing. Not only is this trend being seen in stores and on celebrities, but all over the runway. As models walk down the runway in these gender ﬂuid clothing, it raises the question as to
what is even masculine and feminine anymore? Back in 1984, the most controversial topic on gender ﬂuid fashion was when designer Jean Paul Gaultier put a male model in a skirt, people were talking about it for years and now we are seeing it come back today. Jeremy Scott recently had men on the runway wearing feathered boas and ﬁshnets, while women feminized the puffer jacket with interchangeable clothing on both genders. This kind of fashion is getting people talking and it has received more positive feedback recently. Gucci also jumped on the trend by putting men on the runway in long dresses and even chunky heels claiming, “fashion has no rules.” Designers are starting to come to the realization that if you feel good in it, wear it. Alongside fashion comes beauty and cosmetics. We see the same trend in this industry with James Charles, a beauty vlogger, as the new face of Covergirl. More and more men are now getting into cosmetics and even creating new makeup lines. David Yi, the creator of his own male makeup line stated, “I love makeup, and I love the way it makes me feel, it makes me feel more powerful and sexy and masculine.” This statement alone shows society that we are in a serious shift and are really going to blur the line between what is for girls and what is for boys. The future is going to redeﬁne gender roles in the fashion industry and we cannot wait to see what kind of doors this opens for the future.
Female Representation at the Helm of Major Fashion Houses By: Anna Wood
ccording to a 2015 Business of Fashion study, only 14% of 50 major brands studied were led by women. This lack of female representation doesn’t just affect the dynamic in the workplace, it affects the execution of the fashion directed toward women. While male designers and creative directors may have fantastic out-of-the-box ideas, and they definitely have a place in the fashion world, they may not always have as much of an understanding of what women actually want. Often, items designed by men for women may be aesthetically appealing but do not actually fit their needs. Several brands originally founded by women are now led by male creative directors and designers, like Karl Lagerfeld’s leadership of Chanel. While there have been efforts to get more women into these top positions, promotional practices and family relationships continue to be prohibitive. A problem in any field of work is the vast difference between men and women in terms of the frequency of promotion and how it comes about. At the top level, 18% of men said that they had been promoted without asking first compared to only 5% of women. In addition, women who described themselves as assertive and ambitious had issues with asking for a promotion, even though 17% more women than men expressed interest in moving up the ladder of positions at the start, displaying that ambition is not the problem. Women like Marie-Louise Carven, Elsa Schiaparelli, and Jeanne Lanvin started iconic eponymous brands, only to later be taken over by male creative directors. In addition to existing flaws in promotional practices that span many industries, the idea that men are more innovative in fashion pervades, even though the inventive creations of female designers like Phoebe Philo at Céline have heavily influenced the industry and the way people dress in their everyday lives. This idea furthers the divide in the number of men and women at the top of major brands. To solve this issue, it is important to encourage women to feel more confident in asking for promotion while also
addressing the bias toward male designers. While the difference in promotion is directly influenced by cultural norms in gender roles in the workplace, whether it be rooted in direct or indirect sexism, the typical timeline of a woman’s life and of career advancement frequently overlap, even in the fashion industry. Women are commonly finding that they need to choose between starting a family and furthering their careers. Most people begin their ascent in professional rank in their 30s-40s – a time when many already have or are beginning to have children. Because men are not as often expected to stay at home or compromise career for family life, they are more available for these positions. Some worry that working in high-intensity positions like being at the helm of a major fashion brand will cause the parent to miss the milestones of the formative childhood years. Accommodations in scheduling are more likely to be made for women already at the top, but getting to this point is a challenge when a lower-level promotion is also stunted. By increasing paternity leave in all fields to allow fathers the opportunity to participate more in childcare and increasing flexibility in work schedules for mothers, there would likely be more female talent at the lead of these major brands. Even though the fashion industry is heavily aimed towards women, with the vast majority of fashion school graduates being female and the fact that women spend approximately three times as much money on clothing for themselves than men do, it is still largely run by men. Through educating women on how to market themselves for promotion, changing deep-rooted biases, and creating more options as a parent in the workforce, change can happen.
DIRECTOR: SAM DE OLIVEIRA ASSISTANT: CAITLIN MADLINGER PHOTOGRAPHER: LAUREN AMANDA
The Kendall Kontroversy By: Jake Patel Kendall Jenner, the second youngest of the Kardashian sisters, is widely known for her quick rise in the modeling world. While she was first known for her role in ‘Keeping Up With the Kardashians’, she was able to leverage her fame and family name into a high profile modeling career. Many argued that she became an A-list model because of her family name and already-obtained fame, but she proved herself when she started walking for shows like Marc Jacobs and Victoria’s Secret. Even after establishing herself in the modeling world, she has been the center of a few scandals surrounding her individual career. Whether it be an insensitive Pepsi commercial or offending her modeling peers in an interview, she’s had a few near tragic step backs in her effort to make a name for herself. When she first decided she wanted to enter the world of high fashion, Jenner knew that she would face obstacles in the industry and that she would have to prove herself. Many believed that she was able to just walk onto the catwalk because of her high-profile family, but Jenner is quoted saying that it was just the opposite; she has said that her name has had to make her work even harder to prove herself. Believe it or not, Jenner started her modeling career posing for lower-profile
quick rise to the top is not without setbacks though. In 2017 Jenner was the center of a highly controversial Pepsi commercial. The commercial spotlighted Jenner seemingly bringing peace to a protest with the use of a Pepsi. The commercial was accused of making light of the Black Lives Matter movement and was pulled by the company soon after its first air. More recently, Jenner received backlash after making a comment about “those girls” in her industry. In an interview with Love Magazine in August of 2018, Jenner said she has always been selective with the shows she does and was “never one of those girls who would do like 30 shows a season or whatever the f*** those girls do.” Many models clapped back at Jenner, saying that not everyone has the ability to be picky with the jobs they choose, and correcting her saying the most models walk near 80 shows a season. Models such as Amber Witcomb, Teddy Quinlivan and Ashley Graham clapped brands like Forever 21, Sheri Hill and back at the model saying even Kmart. It wasn’t until New York they don’t all it as easy as her and have Fashion Week’s F/W 14 Marc Jacobs to work twice as hard for half the show that she made her debut in high reward. fashion. She displayed an unrecognizIt’s hard to say whether Kendall able, head-turning look with bleached Jenner’s shot to the top is deserved eyebrows and a completely sheer top. or not, but it’s easy to say that it didn’t Since then, she has represented some come without controversy. In the beof the biggest names in fashion, walking ginning, Jenner knew she would have to for brands like Versace, Off-White, and prove herself and every time she did, Burberry. she seemingly set herself back. While Kendall Jenner quickly rose to she may hold the spot as the world’s the top as the world’s highest paid highest paid model, the battle to assert model, de-crowning Gisele to number herself as a force in high fashion is two after her fifteen-year reign. Her ongoing.
“STYLE GOING THE EXTRA MILE” By; Laura Kirkpatrick is a someone that encourages powWhen it comes to professioner, strength and success to women al athletic wear, most garments across the world. That someone is are designed for the purpose of Serena Williams. flexibility, functionality, comfort, In collaboration with Nike, Abloh performance and ease. Once introduced the “QUEEN” collecupon a time, these garments were tion. To debut this collection, he intended to designed an last an entire “Sport, like fashion, shares a asymmetric athletic common language that seeks black bodysuit season and completed with to unite cultures, break down a black tutu for on some occasions, an barriers and celebrate the Serena to wear athlete’s enthe U.S power of the human spirit,” during tire athletic Open this past said Abloh. “This season, I September. career. In the last year, was inspired by the voice of He identified however, the personal the athlete and the power of elements that fashion has penetrated sport to impact positive and define Serethe sports na William’s transformative change industry. athleticism and globally.” We have created someseen teams thing feminine emerge and begin to utilize fields yet contemporary. In and courts as their runways. addition to her queen-ofUniforms are being revolutionized, the-court looks for the with silhouettes and styles that U.S Open, Abloh also have never been debuted in athlet- worked closely with ics. We largely owe this innovative Nike to redesign two of breakthrough to the multi-dynamic their signature sneakers fashion pioneer,Virgil Abloh. as well as sleek bomber Abloh is undoubtedly one of jackets for the collabothe most influential creatives of ration. our generation. In just five short While Abloh has been years, he has shifted from being the the stepping stone for mastermind behind haute couture bringing designer-wear streetwear brand, Off-White, into the sports industo taking over as Louis Vuitton’s try, He is no novice. artistic director of menswear. His Earlier this year, he creative expression is not limited worked alongside Kim to these two brands, however. As Jones (who ironically stated within an exclusive Forbes was his predecessor at interview, Abloh identifies himself Louis Vuitton) to design as a “serial collaborator” and is the Nike x Off White able to rapidly draw inspiration “Football, Mon Amour” from his creative muses. One of collection. This collecVirgil’s most recent creative muses tion fused two different
visions of the two different designers and the outcome was rebellious. With color block patterns modeled from the 80’s punk generation, these designers truly refined the meaning and emotion that goes into putting on a jersey. In addition to this, Abloh was the first designer to model his SS19 runway show after a track and include actual Olympic athletes to showcase this sport-couture collection. Needless to say, Virgil Abloh’s collaborative efforts with athletes and designers across the world has had an immeasurable impact on both the worlds of fashion and sports. With Off-White officially being labeled as the hottest brand in the world, I think it would be safe to say that this is only the beginning.
Wear, Don’t Waste: Recycled Fashion Making a Difference By: Madi Schultz Walking through your local shopping mall, it is inevitable that your eyes will go straight to the sign posted in the doorway advertising sale items. Whether it is a buy-oneget-one sale or 75% off of the whole store, buying an abundance of clothes for an inexpensive price is easier than ever. Trends are always changing, so why wouldn’t we follow them if the clothes are easily accessible and affordable? As seasons change, so do the trends, and then comes the time in which we filter through our overflowing closet to pick through the items that we haven’t worn in ages. Throwing the clothes in a bag and sending them off to Goodwill or Plato’s Closet, we get them out of our sight and focus our eyes on getting clothes that are on-trend. But what happens to the clothes that Plato’s Closet decides is no longer in season or Goodwill does not end up selling? Just like our everyday trash, those unsold clothes go straight into landfills next to our empty potato chip bags and plastic water bottles. For years, it has become apparent how our excessive use of fossil fuels and non-reusable resources affect the environment. We see how the choices that we make can negatively impact the world around us, so many
decide to buy organic, locally sourced, or vegan foods. But what about when we are shopping for our everyday wardrobe items? The clothes you are currently wearing are most likely produced by a fast-fashion company, an industry that, as the second-largest polluter of clean water around the globe, is a massive contributor to the negative effects on our environment. Fashion designer Bethany Williams
challenges the ways in which clothes are made within the fashion industry, constructing a clothing brand that focuses on making a positive social and environmental impact. Her current menswear collection titled “Breadline” is made solely from textiles composed of recycled waste from companies such as Tesco and Vauxhall Food Bank. The clothing line has more perks than just its use of recycled materials; she gives 30% of the proceeds back to
the Vauxhall Food Bank in order to continue giving back to the community. Models are seen wearing garments made by local craftsmen and women, composed of materials like recycled cardboard, waste items, and even books. Through her company and passion for leaving a positive footprint on the globe, Bethany Williams hopes to share the message about the importance of buying and wearing clothes that are sustainable, rather than fast-fashion brands that pollute the environment. The fashion industry has a major impact on our planet, and consciously choosing to buy clothes that are not mass produced or made from sustainable materials makes a difference. Even going to your local thrift store can be an effective way to help the environment. By including some second-hand clothing into your wardrobe, you work to extend the life of that clothing item. Plus, thrift shopping never goes out of style. Next time you go through your closet to get rid of the pieces that haven’t been worn in a while, take steps towards discarding them in a thoughtful way. Rather than throwing them out completely, donate the t-shirts you don’t wear anymore or see if a friend would want it. Any change made, no matter how big or small, can have a positive impact on our planet.
From Crosswalks to Side Streets: Walking the New Runway By: Laura Kirkpatrick As fashion continues to evolve, photographers and bystanders are looking less to the ¬ for inspiration and instead are turning to the streets. You guessed it, we’re talking about street style. This is for many reasons, take on this dynamic evolution is because it truly allows the everyday trend setter to express their fixation for fashion. In opposition to what we would typically see on the runway, streetwear emulates a look that is not only attainable, but also relatable. A majority of the pieces that we see featured on the runway are both customized and inaccessible, thus excluding a very large audience beyond the elite. However, the looks that we see off-duty models, influencers and bloggers sporting from show to show are the looks that are gaining momentum. By capturing the element of individuality that encompasses street style fashion, we are able to have a true representation of current trends circulating across the globe. After a fashion photographer named Bill Cunningham from the New York Times began shooting the streets, the obsession with the effortless, candid looks from street style photos came into fruition. The main thing I love about street photography is that you find the answers you don’t see at the fashion shows. You find information for readers so they can visualize themselves. This was something I realized early on: If you just cover the designers in the shows, that’s only one facet. You also need the street and the evening hours. If you cover the three things, you have the full, dynamic picture of what people are wearing. – Bill Cunningham Year round, individuals are continuously expressing themselves through fashion and photography in exchange for exposure. It is no secret that the rise of social media has had an astronomical influence on the industry. Instagram has become an outlet for designers, influencers and the everyday fashionista to receive recognition for the ways that they cultivate their styles. London based fashion influencer and stylist Bettina Looney (@bettinalooney) has adapted her own unique taste on the ever-changing street style trend. “My style is a bit funky and I am not afraid to wear something bold and fun.” –Bettina Looney Those with a powerful online presence are spending time and effort on their style, stepping into the streets with unprecedented looks. We are seeing more prints, colors and textures being mixed in order for fashion to be utilized as an outlet for creative expression. Because of this, streetwear is undoubtedly the most authentic form of fashion...and it is here to stay. As fashion month winds down to a close, we have seen a proliferation of new and old trends emerge from NYC, London and Milan street style’s alike. It also cannot be ignored that as the seasons go by, we see more and more individuals pushing the creative boundaries. Everyone is entitled to their own inventive interpretation of streetwear and style. However, as we’ve seen over the past several decades, it’s not about what you are wearing, it is about how you are wearing it.
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