SS19 Runway Review

R U N WAY A N A LY S I S Featuring:

Silhouette Stitch Patt e r n

N E W YO R K • LO N D O N • M I L A N • PA R I S

Pringle of Scotland

SS19

SS19

R U N WAY R E V I E W:

W H AT ’ S K E Y • Layered looks whether a chunky cardigan or a sheer fine gauge twinset, layering offers a versatile transseasonal approach to knitwear.

• Feminine crochet looks as a more subtle take on femininity work well for city and vacation appeal.

• Longevity in knitwear pieces with subtle seasonal adaptations for longstanding staples.

W H AT W E B E L I E V E I N • Ease and comfort

• High-low hemlines and split side seams for versatile styling.

Ellery

Phillip Lim

• Feminine power dressing in head to toe colors

R U N WAY R E V I E W:

SS19

FITTED POLO NECK Give ease in the sleeve for a comfier fit

TRY IT OUT

H E A D -T O -T O E

Play in to solid color and pattern for a bolder look

FINE GG HIGH NECK Dare to bare in sheer or try sleek viscose for commercial direction

CHUNKY CARDIGAN Layering is key in both open stitch and pattern

AT M

To r y B u r c h

Po i r e t

Bally

Markus Lupfer

Our take on what shapes to test within the retail market and which to invest in for SS19. We highly believe in the relaxed crew as the biggest investment of the season as the silhouette holds such versatility for all customers.

RELAXED CREW

Offering versatility for all customers, invest in pattern, stitch and color

BUY IT BIG

RELAXED

SILHOUETTE:

MSGM

Whistles

Belstaff L i s a Pe r r y

Eckhaus Latta

CREW PULLOVERS

Camilla and Marc

E a s y s h a p i n g o f f e r s a c a s u a l f e e l w h i l s t s t y l i n g f e e l s m o d e r n a n d f e m i n i n e . Tr u e c r e w n e c k lines featured heavily in pullover shapes across the shows. Open cardigans give transseasonal layering options.

SOFT HUED TIE-DYE

EASY & EFFORTLESS

MIX STITCH P L AY BLDWN

Zoe Jordan

Anthony Thomas Melillo

Karen Walker

M . Pat m o s

BLDWN

Agnona

SPORT TIPPING

TRANSEASONAL APPEAL

5 |

SILHOUETTE:

CHUNKY CARDIGAN

COOL L AY E R I N G

To r y B u r c h

The chunky cardigan was seen in mid thigh lengths in a combination of all over stitch and pattern interest. A key layering piece throughout the spring and summer with more open stitching for the later months.

Anthony Thomas Melillo

Bluemarine

St. Roche

TWINSETS

Missoni

Antonio Marras

Etro

STIPES W/ STITCHING To r y B u r c h

PAT T E R N MIXING

SILHOUETTE:

OVERSIZED

Cienne

Sportmax

Oscar de la Renta

BARDOT STYLING Calvin Klein

Oscar de la Renta

GENEROUS V-NECKS

Sonia Rykiel

Long, lean and wider shaping is a key theme across pullover and tunic shapes. Layering looks with skirts and dresses offers styling from day-to-night.

BOLD STITCHING

Isabel Marant Etoile

Études

Ji Oh

Rebecca Minkoff

WIDE SHAPES

Ambush

LONG & LEAN

E X AG G E R AT E D SLEEVES

MARL STRIPE EFFECTS

9 |

TEE SHAPES S a l l y L a Po i n t e

Short and 3/4 length sleeves in clean t-shirt cuts complete high-waisted looks. The polo continues from SS18 as a statement item for a smart tailored appeal. Bold colors lift this smarter silhouette.

To r y B i r c h

S a l l y L a Po i n t e

CLEAN & FEMININE

Jason Wu

Brooks Brothers

Calvin Luo

S AT E E N FINISH

Eckhaus Latta

TAY LO R E D TO P P E R S

Rachel Antonoff

SILHOUETTE:

RETRO YOUTH

CDLM Nanushka

SLEEK CUTS

Derek Lam

M . Pat m o s

MODERN SPORT BLOCKING

Plan C

EASY TUNIC LENGTHS

11 |

TA N K S

SILHOUETTE:

CROPPED CO/ORD

Markus Lupfer

Sandro

SLEEK CUTS

Pringle of Scotland

Erika Cavallini

L AY E R E D LOOKS

Alberta Ferretti

Ta n k s h a p e s o f f e r c o o l d r e s s i n g i n h i g h s u m m e r . S S 1 9 s a w t h e t a n k s h a p e a s a l a y e r i n g piece over shirting for earlier spring looks. New takes on the tank show a sportier racer cut for a slim form-fitting feel.

PAT T E R N P L AY

Pa c o Ra b a n n e

BOLD COLORS MGSM

Roberto Cavalli

Sonia Rykiel

HI-LO HEM

SPORTY LOOKS

13 |

DRESSES

Mara Hoffman

SILHOUETTE:

Les Copains

Kwaidan Editions

Les Copains

SLIM & SLEEK

ChloĂŠ

The sweater dress silhouette offers styling that feels both wear-to-work and easy day-wear.

This longer shape was seen in midi to maxi lengths with added high side split details for versatility.

Erika Cavallini

SPLIT SEAMS

Solace London

BLDWN

Markus Lupfer

V E R S AT I L E STY L E

HIGH NECKLINES

Balenciaga

Yigal Azrouel

EVOLVING ASSYMETRIC

15 |

CO/ORDS

Head to toe dressing frequented the runways this SS19 season with looks including pants, skirts and shorts. This confident silhouette was seen in solid color and pattern offering both luxe feminine power dressing and softer loungewear style.

LOUNGEWEAR APPEAL

Baja East Bally

Markus Lupfer

Area

BOLD & FEMININE

Assembly NY

SILHOUETTE:

HEAD TO TOE COLOR STYLING

PAT T E R N P L AY Calvin Luo

Tibi

M Missoni

M Missoni

Rosetta Getty

P O W E R P L E AT S

17 |

STITCH:

SHEER

Dare to bare with sheer this SS19. Second skin looks in high necklines, playful pattern and stitch offer surface interest. A youthful appeal in fun pop colors styled over bralettes with a more modest look over tanks and shirting.

RTA

Balmain

Pringle of Scotland

SOFT SURFACE

Eckhaus Latta

TWINSETS

Cividini

Mira Mikati

Fay

CO LO R P L AY

RTA

Bevza

L AY E R I N G PIECES Alyx

Po i r e t

BOSS

BOSS

Esteban Cortazer

SECOND SKIN

HIGH NECKS 19 |

STITCH:

RIBS

A . P. C .

BLDWN

HEAD TO TOE COLOR STYLING

Dion Lee

Whistles

REFINED CUTS

Po i r e t

Yigal Azrouel

Ribs in both fine and chunky gauge were seen across the shows. Sleeveless tees offer refined feminine shapes. Scooped necklines and wider rib sets update for a sportier look.

Chunkier styles keep femininity with wider and balloon sleeve shaping.

SIDE SPLITS

Vince

Prabal Gurung

SCOOPED NECKLINES

CHUNKY & ENGINEERED 21 |

Jason Wu

Solace London

Bluemarine

Sandro

STITCH:

CROCHET + OPEN WORK

OVERSIZED SHAPE

Sonia Rykiel

Ermanno Scervino

Michael Kors

Ermanno Scervino

Nina Ricci

SPORTIF CUTS

Dior

Open mesh stitching and classic crochet mainly in neutral tonality creates versatility across m u l t i p l e s i l h o u e t t e s h a p e s . Ta n k s t a k e o n a s p o r t i f c u t w h i l s t d r e s s e s s h o w f u l l l e n g t h l o o k s with layering options for both city and vacation appeal.

N E T- L I K E LOOKS

Louis Vitton

Phillip Lim

BOLD COLOR COMBOS Missioni

Altuzarra

Michael Kors

Sonia Rykiel

L AY E R E D DRESSING BEACH TO STREET

23 |

PAT T E R N :

STRIPES

DENIM DRESSING

Gabriela Hearst

Roksanda

PH5

M . Pat m o s

Sonia Rykiel

BOLD BLOCKING

Derek Lam

Stripes were seen in a variety of layouts across the runways. Vertical and horizontal both create head to toe looks with bold color blocking. Multi-colored stripes offer playful outfitting whilst wider stripes give a more youthful and sporty feel.

WIDE STRIPES

Marta Jabuowski

Études

SPORTSWEAR STYLE

Sonia Rykiel

BLDWN

Rosie Assoulin

Y/Project

M I N I - M U LT I STRIPES

CO/ORD

25 |

B O L D STAT E M E N T S Pa rt o w Jil Sander

Missioni

Rocksanda

FINE ART MOTIFS

Derek Lam

PAT T E R N :

Minimalist fine art motifs were seen across different silhouettes this SS19 season creating statement graphics. Bold blocking in playful asymmetric layouts and checkered pattern in bright color pops also created confident bold looks.

A . P. C .

P L AY F U L L AYO U T S Adam Lippes

Zoe Jordan

Derek Lam

RtA

Prabal Gurung

Iceburg

STAT E M E N T BLOCKING BRIGHT CHECKS

27 |

PAT T E R N :

TRAVELLER

To d s

ORGANIC BLOCKING

Brunello Cucinelli

STITCH MIXING

Sacai

Preen

Global craft influences this trend with a multitude of techniques, patterns and styling.

Stitch mixing, blocking and graphic takes on traditional prints are seen in earthy tones with bold color pops for a modern twist.

CRAFT INSPIRED Etro

Etro

Pa c o Ra b a n e

Ulla Johnson

MODERN GRAPHICS Coach 1941

FLORALS

Jonathan Cohen Kate Spade

The Great.

Kenzo

Kate Spade

JACQUARD R E P E AT S

CROCHET & APPLIQUE

Dolce & Gabbana

PAT T E R N :

Floral layouts in a variety of scales and techniques were seen across the shows. New takes on this pattern include using brighter bold pops and exploded floral layouts.

P L AY O N SCALE M U LT I - C O L O R MIXING Arthur Arbesser

Kate Spade

Pringle of Scotland

Pringle of Scotland

EXPLODED FLORAL

31 |

F O L LO W U S O N I N STAG R A M @ B R I L L I A N T _ T R E N D

F O R M O R E I N F O R M AT I O N C O N TA C T: KAT I E JA N E B A I L E Y K J B A I L E Y @ B R I L L I A N T E M A I L . CO M LAURA CONNELL LAURACONNELL@BRILLIANTEMAIL.COM