Issue Nine

INTERVIEW WITH A VEGAN QUEEN: EVANNA LYNCH // TALKING INTERSECTIONALITY FASHION & GREENWASHING // ARE YOUR DRUGS CHOICES VEGAN?

BRIGHT VEGAN LIFESTYLE, CULTURE & COMMUNITY.

ISSUE NINE

™

F

t

@BRIGHTZINE

@BRIGHTZINES

@BRIGHTZINES

B R I G HT Z I N E .C O Bright Zine is a biannual magazine produced in London, UK. Copyright © Bright Zine Ltd. All Rights Reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, transmitted or distributed in any form without the prior written consent of Bright Zine Ltd. The views and opinions expressed throughout are the responsibility of the individual contributors.

Vegan Queen® is a registered trade mark.

BRIGHT VEGAN LIFESTYLE, CULTURE & COMMUNITY.

ISSUE NINE

B R I G HT

IN THIS ISSUE PAGE 10

SPEND YOUR VEGAN POUNDS WISELY

PAGE 12

PLANTFACED WITH EM-J

PAGE 14

GREENWASHING

PAGE 18

SYDNEY: THE INSIDER’S GUIDE

PAGE 36

SANCTUARY SPOTLIGHT: THE RETREAT ANIMAL SANCTUARY

PAGE 40

SPOT THE BANANA

PAGE 42

Q&A WITH JOSHUA KATCHER ON FASHION ANIMALS

PAGE 45

INSTA HEROES

PAGE 46

NEVER INSULT YOUR SKIN AGAIN: GREEN BEAUTY

PAGE 52

INTERVIEW WITH A VEGAN QUEEN: EVANNA LYNCH

PAGE 62

REGENERATION

PAGE 66

VEGAN QUEEN VS. PLASTIC STRAW

PAGE 68

COOL SHIT

PAGE 70

TALKING INTERSECTIONALITY

PAGE 76

THE AIR VEGAN COLUMN

PAGE 78

INTRODUCING: THE BRIGHT CLUB

PAGE 80

ARE YOUR DRUG CHOICES ETHICAL?

PAGE 84

ZERO WASTE ROUND UP PAGE 4

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80

52 18

36

42 PAGE 5

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CO N T R IBUTO R S Editorial Laura Callan ™lauralollipop Roxane Dewar ™roxane_dewar Em-J Williams ™oh.emj Melissa Watt ™melissawatttt Tamsin Callan ™tamsinrose Alex Nicolau ™niniorganics Charlie Edwards ™charlie_now Sareta Puri ™saretapuri Evie Muir ™xeviemuir Mikeala Spiteri ™mikaelaspiteri The AIR VEGAN ™theairvegan Emma Oldham ™the_wild_mum David McQuillan ™digitalvideodave

Special thanks The Retreat Animal Sanctuary ™theretreat.animalsanctuary Joshua Katcher ™thediscerningbrute Evanna Lynch™msevylynch Joel Callan ™jpg.vid

Cover Photography: Charlie Edwards ™charlie_now

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LET TER FROM THE EDITOR Here we are at last. Welcome to BRIGHT Issue Nine.

Hey everyone, It’s been a while, hasn’t it? Eek. This past year has been a lot of work, from opening our lifestyle store and coffee shop The BRIGHT Store to launching an international community and East London events space with The BRIGHT Club. We never want to scrimp on our efforts in creating BRIGHT Zine, so we took the time we needed to put together the issue that you, our readers, deserve. Moving forward we are going to release BRIGHT Zine on a biannual schedule, so that we get to spend enough time with each issue and bring you only the best. That being said, we missed you and are so glad to be back with one of our favourite issues to date.

We all had high hopes for 2020 and it is turning out to be pretty awful. I’m not going to reflect on the details of what’s going on as we are bombarded and overwhelmed with it daily. Instead, we have purposely kept Issue Nine pandemic-free, to give you a little bit of escapism during what is likely one of the hardest years of modern times.

I loved chatting to Evanna Lynch and creating such a beautiful spread with photographer Charlie Edwards, I hope you enjoy this insight into her world as much as I did.

There are some big topics to get into this issue, with a look into intersectionality, greenwashing, regeneration, drug use and more. We’ve also got a deluxe Sydney vegan guide from BRIGHT OG Tamsin so you can plan where to eat, drink and shop on future trips. We will get to travel again!

Stay strong, stay safe, keep the community vibes going. Head to our website for plenty of lockdown reading material. Remember, we’re all in this together.

See you next time, for an all-new BRIGHT Issue Ten.

Laura Callan Editor

™ lauralollipop .

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PAGE 8

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B R I G HT

SPEND YOUR VEGAN POUNDS WISELY WITH BIG INDUSTRIES CASHING IN ON THE VEGAN BOOM, WE NEED TO STAY DISCERNING Written by Laura Callan™lauralollipop

Have you noticed an increase in rather

beeswax, while other brands may display

suspect

a ‘100% Vegan’ logo because the product

beauty,

hair

and

skincare

contains vegan-friendly ingredients, but

items being marketed as vegan?

are in fact tested on animals in horrific The vegan movement is only going up,

experiments.

and this means big brands - with either good or questionable ethics - will of

One

course be wanting to cash in on the trend.

who

example recently

is

Herbal

Essences,

were

given

cruelty-free

accreditation from PETA and display their With vegan options more readily available

‘cruelty free and vegan’ bunny icon, but

and more clearly labelled, it’s a lot

are owned by parent company Procter

easier to shop, but we need to continue

and Gamble, who are still ver y involved

to be discerning with our purchases. In

in animal testing with a range of their

any supermarket you can now pick up

brands.

products from major brands that are labelled ‘100% Vegan’, but there is a

PETA’s US Senior Vice President Kathy

darker secret behind that label.

Guillermo said, “Procter & Gamble has shown

a

commitment

to

ending

the

Some products have been marked as

use of animals in tests wherever and

vegan while still containing honey or

whenever possible and has worked for

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years

non-

It’s frustrating to have huge companies

animal methods.” Procter and Gamble

to

develop

that benefit from cruel animal testing

state that they suppor t a worldwide ban

try to market their products to a growing

on cosmetic testing on animals, but note

vegan audience, so we just have to stay

the word ‘cosmetic’, they do not suppor t

vigilant. Continue to be curious, question

an all-out ban on animal testing. In their

the companies and parent companies of

animal testing policy they state: “ We at

the products you buy. Follow vegan beauty

P&G strongly believe that the majority of

bloggers who are doing the research, calling

animal tests required by these authorities

out misleading products and championing

are

true vegan, cruelty free brands.

scientifically

and

promote

unnecessar y.”

The

“majority.” Don’t be fooled, stay vigilant.

It’s an exciting time to be vegan, but it’s still They’re not the only ones - last year, L’Oreal

on us to remain conscious consumers.

started labelling “vegan formula**” on some of their products. While the use of not one,

Need inspiration? Some of our favourite

but two asterisks should raise questions

beauty Instagram accounts that share

with any consumer, this is an extremely

new products and vegan beauty news are

misleading claim. If you read the fine print,

our resident beauty writer ™emj_mua, as

L’Oreal admit to paying for animal testing

well as ™veganbeautygirl, ™demicolleen

‘when regulatory authorities demand it.

and ™thebeautyvegan.

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PLANTFACED With Em-J

Keeping your skincare and beauty routines vegan and free from animal testing companies can seem like a daunting task, so we’ve got pro vegan makeup artist and YouTube queen Em-J Williams here to keep you in the know with the best vegan products.

In this issue, Em-J brings you this season’s top five cruelty-free, all-vegan beauty and skincare products.

™oh.emj

P ROT EC T YO ' S ELF

1

Wearing SPF should be considered all year round. Wearing an SPF under our makeup is the traditional way, however The Body Shop have a super handy face spray designed to protect you from UVA, UVB rays as well as being anti-pollution. You can simply spray on top of your makeup and top up throughout the day. Easy peasy!

Skin Defence Multi-Protection Face Mist, The Body Shop £18

™thebodyshop

A SECRET SHARED In the world of faux lashes, it can be a daunting task to know which brands you can trust to be truly silk and mink free! Our Secret Beauty is a new brand bursting with utterly gorgeous lashes, not the traditional ones you would see in the shops too! All of the lashes are crafted by hand, all unique in their own way. I particularly recommend the two tone lashes, brown and black lashes blended together for a more authentic look.

Lashes, Our Secret Beauty £12.99

™oursecret.beauty

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3

G LOW B A BY G LOW It’s time to bring the glow to your makeup routine. Try using a liquid illuminator, focusing on the cheek areas and temples before you apply your foundation. The new ‘Light lustre’ by The Makeup Academy at only £5 is daylight robbery! It comes in 3 shades so great for all skin tones and also works beautifully all over the decolletage.

Light Lustre, MUA Cosmetics £5

™muacosmetics

4

H ERO BA LM The balm of all balms, made entirely from specially selected plants to soothe, hydrate and accelerate skin healing.

This little green magic balm is made with coenzyme Q10, hibiscus oil and betacarotene from carrots to help with skin repair. Use it on dry skin, cuts, grazes, pimples and anything else that needs speady healing!

Babe Balm, BYBI £16

™bybibeauty

H A I R R A I S I N G H A I R P R O D U CTS If you haven’t already heard about this dreamy

5

brand- Maria Nila are heaven sent in a bottle and...wait for it…. entirely vegan. They are a conscious brand made in Sweden, with high performing products and great value for money.

The product developers choose the most environmentally friendly ingredients as well as being Leaping Bunny and Vegan society approved.

Maria Nila, products start from £6.99

™marianilastockholm

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WE NEED TO TALK ABOUT GREENWASHING Written by Melissa Wattâ„¢melissawatttt

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Greenwashing informed

is

everywhere,

consumer

choices

be misled as companies incentivise them to

making

buy products that harm the environment.

virtually

impossible. Why is it on the rise, how can you spot greenwashing and what more can

These companies are not committed to any

be done about it?

fundamental change. Take household name, H&M,

for

example.

With

their

Conscious

Greenwashing describes the business practice

Collection and Take Back Scheme, it’s easy

of making misleading marketing claims about the

to be fooled that they’re leading the change

environmental benefits of a product or service.

towards a more sustainable fashion industry.

These businesses spend more time and money

While their conscious collection is made from

claiming to be ‘green’ than they do investing in

sustainable materials, what is sustainable

sustainable business initiatives. This practice is

about promoting the overconsumption of poorly

particularly prevalent in the fuel, food, fashion,

made, temporarily trendy clothes? These same

electronics and plastics industries.

clothes will likely end up in a landfill after just seven wears. No amount of greenwashing will

The term ‘greenwashing’ was first coined

change the fact that the fast fashion model will

by environmentalist Jay Westervelt in the

never be sustainable.

1980s, but its use has grown rapidly in the last decade. As consumer demand for sustainable

What’s worse is that H&M isn’t a conscious

alternatives has risen, so too has the number

brand at all. In 2013, H&M promised that

of

study

850,000 of its workers would earn a fair living

conducted by TerraChoice found that 95% of

wage by 2018. Yet, workers in H&M supplier

consumer products claiming to be green were

factories – who produce 200 pieces of clothing

found to commit at least one of the ‘Sins of

per hour - still don’t earn a living wage. Three

Greenwashing’.

years ago, H&M launched World Recycling

greenwashing

claims.

A

2010

Week,

another

offensive,

greenwashed

So, why is this an issue? The consumer

attempt to disguise its own exploitation of

world is becoming increasingly harder to

cheap, unsafe labour. This event questionably

navigate. Greenwashed marketing is merely

clashed with Fashion Revolution Week which

performative, putting profit before the planet.

commemorates the death of over 1000 workers

This has led to widespread confusion about

who died in the Rana Plaza disaster. Sadly,

what sustainable and eco-friendly labels really

H&M are just one brand part of a much bigger

mean. Even ethically-minded consumers can

problem.

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HOW CAN YOU SPOT GREENWASHING? Check

the

packaging.

WHAT MORE CAN BE DONE TO TACKLE GREENWASHING? If

a

product

Whilst the future of greenwashing is uncertain,

overemphasises its eco-friendly impression,

its

it’s often too good to be true. Always check

enforcement. As it stands, greenwashing is

the label for these three common signs of

fairly unmonitored, meaning that companies

greenwashing: the use of ‘sustainable’, ‘eco-

can use misleading environmental claims

friendly’ or ‘biodegradable’ buzzwords; the

without

use of suggestive natural imagery; the use of

Regulatory advisory bodies need to develop

ambiguous language or overtechnical jargon.

specific guidelines and criteria to better hold

The ingredients list is far more telling than the

these businesses to account. The UK could

branding, hiding lots of nasty chemicals and

mirror a California state law which bans the

pollutants.

sales of plastics labelled as ‘compostable’

fate

largely

depends

relative

fear

on

of

regulatory

prosecution.

or ‘biodegradable’. This prevents consumers from being misled about how quickly a product

ACCREDITED SYMBOLS:

would biodegrade in a landfill. It also promotes

Genuine environmental claims are usually

the need to underpin green marketing claims

certified

with reliable scientific evidence.

but

it’s

hard

to

know

which

accreditations to trust. Ecolabel Index is a global directory that does this work for you by

As consumers, we can prompt the adoption

monitoring over 400 ecolabels. Rank a Brand

of stricter regulatory enforcement. If you

is another useful site which assesses and

spot an instance of greenwashing, contact

ranks consumer brands in sustainability and

the advertising standards agency. Make your

social responsibility. Good on You is a handy

voice heard in the fight for more transparent

fashion app for filtering companies based on

environmental

their impact on the planet, people and animals.

also use their purchasing power to drive

marketing.

Consumers

can

companies towards greener solutions. If there is greater demand for legitimate sustainable

COMPANY POLICIES:

alternatives,

being

an

company

will

environmentally

Does the company have clear ethical and

conscious

environmental policies? Simply claiming to be

Buy slowly, do your research and support

sustainable isn’t enough; companies need to

sustainable, ethical brands.

outline their supply chain and business plan.

If a company is genuinely environmentally conscious, they’ll be more transparent about their actions.

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surely

pay

off.

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RECOMMENDATIONS ONLY

SYDNEY: THE INSIDER’S GUIDE Sydney: great beaches, great coffee, great food.

From the city’s best tacos to award-winning pizza, we’ve got you covered. I spent three weeks eating my way through the city so you know how to dine exclusively at the city’s hottest spots.

Sydney is one of the most chilled out cities, made up of lots of Williamsburgesque neighbourhoods, warehouse districts and, of course, plenty of beaches. It’s a bit of change of pace for big city people (hello, Londoners) but Sydney is a great blend of city bustle and chilled out surfer life.

Plus, they’ve got great coffee and a huge vegan scene. What’s not to love?

Written by Tamsin Rose Callan™tamsinrose Photos by Tamsin Rose Callan

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COFFEE

We heard Sydney was good for cof fee, so naturally we drank as much of it as we could while we were in town. It is truly hard to find a bad cup here, there is a kind of gold-class standard for

COFFEE

cof fee shops in Australia. Wherever we travel we want to find the best cof fee and are not satisfied until we’ve located the best cof fee spots.

A

firm

favourite

is

Sam ple

Cof fee

Roaster s ™sam plecof fee at Precinct 75 in St Peter s. It’s a little bit fur ther out, in an industrial area surrounded by warehouses but somehow it deliver s total cosy cof fee vibes in a bright open plan space.

While

you’re

in

Precinct

75,

we

encourage you to take a walk around the

historic

specifically

building, for

it’s

creative

a

space

businesses.

You can pop into the ethical home goods store

like

SAARDÉ ™saardehome,

that we may have spent way too long in, spend an af ternoon axe throwing at Maniax ™maniax.au, or book your self a whisky tasting at OCD (Otter Cr af t Distilling) ™ottercraftdistilling.

If you are a fellow caffeine fiend and want a deep dive into Sydney’s coffee scene check out our Sydney coffee guide on our

website:

brightzine.co/news/sydney-

coffee.

Not to leave you hanging, some of our top picks are The Grounds ™ thegrounds - both of their locations are stunning in their own way, but Alexandria is really something. We also love Bourke Street Bakery ™ bourkestreetbakery who have locations in both Marrickville and Newtown.

A

final

top

fave

is

Coffee

Alchemy

™ coffeealchemy, who you can visit at either their roastery in Marrickville or at their new city spot Gumption ™ gumption_syd.

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FOOD TOP PIC K:

BODHI

This spot came with the most recommendations from local tastemakers, so it was top of our list to try. Bodhi serves up pan-Asian cuisine and specialises in Yum Cha, a Chinese tradition of brunch with tea and several small courses also known as dim sum.

Indoor and outdoor seating make this a perfect brunch setting all year round, with a huge cocktail menu and dumplings you’ll be dreaming about for weeks. Our favourite dishes were the rice paper sesame seed prawn pillows and the sweet steamed hot dogs - just trust us. For dessert, the passionfruit donuts and the mango pancakes are game-changing. Seriously, tell your friends, tell your mum, tell anyone who ever says they’re going to Sydney that this is the place to eat.

2/4 College St, Sydney NSW 2000

™bodhirestaurantbar

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SHIFT EATERY Shift Eatery is the home of the “The Best Vegan Bacon and Egg Bagel in the world” which sells out every day a mere hour after they open. It took us a couple of tries to finally get our hands on this beast, and it lives up to expectations.

If you don’t fancy an early morning, have a lie in, go there for lunch and grab a “Join The Club” or “Breaky Bun” sandwich for the best of both worlds.

And make sure you grab a chocolate bar for later.

Shop 4/241 Commonwealth St, Surry Hills NSW 2010

™shifteatery

SWEETS:

GRUMPY DONUTS These doughnuts are incredible. True sweet bready goodness, and light enough that you could try a couple of flavours in one sitting.

They aren’t a fully vegan establishment, but they have a full vegan doughnut range made fresh each day with the same flavours as their non-vegan doughnuts. Supporting businesses that are making space to offer good vegan options is important to us too. Plus, the coffee they serve here is great.

To put it simply, it’s good spot to sit and have a coffee and a banging doughnut, (or three).

72 Pyrmont Bridge Rd, Camperdown NSW 2050

™grumpydonutsofficial

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NAKED BAKERY Put this magazine down and go check out Naked Bakery’s Instagram, it will tell you everything you need to know. The almond croissants, the gooey brownies, the beautiful cakes, the melted chocolate poured over trays of pain au chocolat. This woman-owned vegan organic bakery is an absolute mustvisit. It’s a little further out in Baulkham Hills but trust us, take the trip.

20B Old Northern Rd, Baulkham Hills NSW 2153

™nakedbakery

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GOLDEN LOTUS This vegan Vietnamese spot is a local favourite with an extensive menu. This is a great place to share a range of fresh veg and mock meat dishes, and don’t miss our winner, the fried ‘fish’ in a clay pot. It’s also BYOB so it’s a good spot to have some drinks before you head for some great cocktails at Earl’s Juke Joint

™ earlsjukejoint down the street.

341 King St, Newtown NSW 2042

™goldenlotusvegan

BAD HOMBRES The huge menu in this Mexican-inspired eatery pleases absolutely everyone, including all my gluten-free friends. You know a place is really good when it’s always busy, but more so when a lot of their regulars are non-vegans.

On our ‘must order’ list are The Cauliflower with seaweed salt, served with corn tortillas and cashew cream, the Adobo Potato Tacos and the Charred Corn with Chipotle Mayo. If you have space for dessert, (you should absolutely save space for dessert) get the Creme Brûlée.

There’s a reason people call the Bad Hombres tacos the best in the city, and we can’t wait to go back.

72 40 Reservoir St, Surry Hills NSW 2010

™bad.hombres.dining

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TOP PICK:

GIGI PIZZERIA tl;dr: you will want to eat here every day of your trip to Sydney.

An

adorable

rustic

Italian

restaurant

in

Newtown, Gigi Pizzeria is darkly lit, romantic, and sometimes has a queue outside so tr y to get there early. Gigi is one of Sydney’s only pizzerias with a membership to the “True Neapolitan Pizza Association”, ensuring your their pizzas are hand-stretched and woodfired Napoli style. Star t with the almond coated potato croquettes, have your pick of pizza or the incredible ricotta-filled calzone con Spinaci as your main, and make sure you order the cannoli for desser t. Don’t worr y about vanilla or chocolate, they’re both good.

In fact, get both.

379 King St, Newtown NSW 2042

™gigipizzeria

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You want ice cream? Gelato Blue is an all-

SWEETS:

GELATO BLUE

vegan gelato house in Newtown. Are you noticing a theme? Yes, most of the vegan places are in Newtown, so maybe book an AirBnB there. Tr y the Salted Belgian Chocolate or the Peanut Butter.

318 King St, Newtown NSW 2042

™ gelatoblue

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HONOU RABLE M ENT IO NS

OH MY DAYS Brunch enthusiasts: Oh My Days is your place.

Spend a Sunday tucked away in their garden with a pour over coffee and deluxe pastry. Their all day breakfast and lunch menu is primarily Mexican fusion; expect quesadillas, burritos, they even have a full English with a Mexicana twist. If you’re lucky you can try their coffee glazed, hazelnut praline and almond custard donut...

99 Glebe Point Rd, Glebe NSW 2037

™ohmydaysglebe

PEPPE’S

LITTLE TURTLE

An all-vegan gnocchi restaurant in Bondi that sells

A woman-owned all-vegan Thai restaurant with a

natural wines by the glass. BRB, we’re moving to

great interior. Try the Hor Mok (Thai fish curry) or

Bondi.

their instagram-worthy pineapple fried rice.

261 Bondi Rd, Bondi NSW 2026

™peppes.syd

10 Stanmore Rd, Enmore NSW 2042

™littleturtlerestaurantv

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S H O P P I N G:

THE CRUELTY FREE SHOP Need a new Matt and Nat bag? Want to stock up on Vego Bars? Or maybe you want to scope out the different plant-based foods on offer this side of the world. In Glebe, The Cruelty Free Store is a mini vegan supermarket with a big selection of food, as well as health and beauty products, bags, accessories and clothing.

83 Glebe Point Rd, Glebe NSW 2037

™thecrueltyfreeshop

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S HOPPING:

SANS BEAST While you’re in Australia you have to check out SANS BEAST for truly gorgeous designer bags without the beast. They don’t have their own bricks and mor tar store but you can see some of their collection firsthand in David Jones on Elizabeth Street, or check out their website and put in an order. We should warn you, you will want ever ything. Our editor Laura doubles up her Noir Alligator laptop case as a clutch bag and it looks stunning and is standing the test of time too.

David Jones, 86-108 Castlereagh St, NSW 2000 sansbeast.com

™sans.beast

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SYDNEY D E T A I L S

>

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SANCTUARY SPOTLIGHT

THE RETREAT HOME TO OVER A THOUSAND ANIMALS, THE RETREAT IS A HAVEN FOR ANIMALS SAVED FROM DIRE SITUATIONS

Written by Laura Callan™lauralollipop

We all love to see a video of animals

TELL US ABOUT THE RETREAT! WHEN DID YOU START AND WHY?

being liberated by activists, saved by farmers

who

have

finally

recognised

The Retreat started about thirty years ago.

their speciesism, or jumping out of a

It was by total chance with no plan to start

slaughterhouse-bound truck and saving

a rescue. Pretty much all my life I brought

their own lives. But what happens to

home strays and injured creatures. I helped

these animals then?

Many

animals

like

out on horse yards and when a poor old these

end

up

horse was about to be shot, I said I’d have

at

her - at only 14 years old. Slowly the different

sanctuaries and rescue centres to live out

types of animals I had grew to include all

the rest of their lives peacefully and with compassion

from

their

Sanctuaries

are

usually

human

equines, domestic ones, farm animals etc.

carers.

non-profit

I have always believed in justice and always

or

fought for the underdog. I was the type of

charities and rely on support from the

child who picked up snails on the path so

community and volunteers. It’s not cheap or

they wouldn’t get crushed, saved beetles

easy to run an animal sanctuary. It is hard

who’d fallen into water, and even picked

work and from vet bills to feed to bedding, it

flies out of spiderwebs. Now, our sanctuary

is a huge financial undertaking.

is filled with creatures, from tiny orphaned mice to massive cattle, but they all have the

For Issue Nine, we wanted to shine a spotlight

same number one goal: survival, just like us.

on a rescue that is close to our hearts; The Retreat Animal Sanctuary in Kent, UK. We

HOW MANY ANIMALS LIVE AT THE RETREAT NOW?

talked to founder Billy Thompson about The Retreat’s mission, the reality of running a sanctuary and what you can do to support

With over 400 birds, 60 horses and donkeys,

animals that live in them.

200 pigs, 60 sheep and goats, 50 dogs

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and cats, 150 injured wildlife, 15 cattle and

across the world, and others brought to us

70 turtles, our sanctuary is home to over

via the police, local and district councils.

1000 animals right now. We keep anywhere

We can only cover the local area of Kent,

between 1000 and 2000 needy souls at any

and we always attend all emergencies.

one time. This can include fish, terrapins,

The winter can double our work, especially

injured British wildlife, permanently disabled

during long wet, freezing periods. Our centre

wildlife, equines, farm animals including

is also open 24 hours for wildlife A&E as a

sheep, goats, cattle, pigs, turkeys, geese,

drop off for any poorly wildlife that’s been

ducks and chickens. We also have pigeons,

injured or found, saving our team from too

peafowl and other birds, as well as dogs,

many rescue call outs.

cats and small fluffies.

WHAT DOES A DAY RUNNING A SANCTUARY LOOK LIKE?

WHERE DO THESE ANIMALS COME FROM?

An average day starts with a full walk around

Our rescues come from everywhere, from

of the whole sanctuary - this includes all

dumped and dying tiny foals found on

the

waste land, to wildlife caught in road traffic

and lakes, checking whether our rescued

accidents. Our call outs range from RTA

residents are all up for breakfast and looking

foxes, badgers, deer, mowing accidents

well. Breakfast and medical needs are done

involving hedgehogs, trapped wildlife or

by the residents’ main carers. Next, the

down farm animals,

and abandoned dogs,

residents’ main carers check the hospital

cats and horses. We also save farm animals

areas and check who needs to see our vets or

left to starve or found straying into roads.

if the vet should attend any large resident. A

We have abandoned street animals from

quick touch base with the team (and a coffee

PAGE 37

enclosures,

barns,

stables,

aviaries

B R I G HT

and doughnut), then we dish out jobs to our

Jill a 12 day-old calf orphaned and set to

incredible team of volunteers, who turn up

market. £10 was the price for people to make

everyday - whatever the weather. By 8:30am

mittens out of her patterned coat.

it’s time to check the answering machine,

would have ended that day and she’d have

social media messages and emails. We then

been put in the freezer. She lived a ling life

prioritise the rescue messages and send our

and was truly one of the family. My nephews

team out.

called her Aunty Jill.

Next, we look at the cafe menu, check the

WHAT DO YOU WANT PEOPLE TO KNOW ABOUT SANCTUARY LIFE?

stock, and choose the daily specials. We do the shopping for the cafe and then our

Sanctuary life is not easy. There’s so much

wonderful chef Neil starts cooking. Our day

heartbreak and the constant worry about

passes by with a string of visitors dropping

funding is nerve-wracking. Rescues are

off donations of newspaper, bedding, food

bittersweet due to the animals left behind.

and injured needy souls with nowhere else to go. The team carries out feeding, exercise,

HOW CAN WE SUPPORT THE RETREAT AND THE ANIMALS HERE?

cleaning out, new bedding, etc. whilst also making room for the new arrivals. Most days it’s like bed-juggling in a major city hospital.

To help us you can conate what you can,

The real miracle is having enough funds and

come and help out or become a volunteer.

a team with a massive heart to get through

You can collect newspaper bedding or other

the day. Knowing that all the residents and

bits we need here. You could organise a

new intakes are fed, medicated and safe at

fundraiser, spread the word about us and

the end of the day is where our dedication

follow us on social media!

comes from. Our day can go into the early hours - pulling starving horses out of dykes

Visit The Retreat’s website for opening

or pursuing a fox with a broken leg, you just

times, volunteer days and information on

never know.

how you can help support the animals. retreatanimalrescue.org.uk

HOW MUCH DOES IT COST TO RUN A SANCTUARY?

™theretreat.animalsanctuary

Our centre costs £500 per day without veterinary costs.

WHAT ARE SOME OF THE MOST AMAZING RESCUES YOU’VE HAD? Amazing

rescues

Her life

include

animals

you

thought would never make it - like Todd, a tiny foal found dumped and dying. Maggots eating him, more lice than I’ve ever seen in any animal. Worm burden through the roof.

Such a sweet baby within 1 hour he was drinking from the bottle.

Magic, a tiny piglet found in a coma by the side of the A229, was so small that she fitted in my hand. Six days at the vet and she pulled through.

PAGE 39

SPOT THE BANANA

#SPOTTHEBANANA

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FIVE MINUTES WITH

JOSHUA KATCHER WE SPEAK TO FASHION DESIGNER, EDUCATOR, SPEAKER AND AUTHOR OF ‘FASHION ANIMALS’, THE BEAUTIFUL NEW BOOK EXPLORING THE HISTORY OF ANIMAL EXPLOITATION IN THE FASHION INDUSTRY.

WHAT IS YOUR BACKGROUND WITH FASHION?

WHAT LED YOU TO WRITE ‘FASHION ANIMALS’?

I didn’t study fashion design in school and I

Again, there was a void. Animal ethics haven’t

didn’t realise how powerful fashion was until

been taken seriously in the academy until very

i started writing about it in 2008 with my blog

recently, and the same can be said for fashion.

The Discerning Brute. In fact, i considered

They are popular themes, but sort of scoffed

myself quite anti-fashion (or at least what I

at by intellectuals. So I was not too shocked

perceived fashion to be: a trivial celebration

when I realised that no one had written a

of surface and vanity). So I was writing about

book examining the intersection of these two

it from more of a “things-I-wish-were-vegan”

popular themes. I had been lecturing on this

perspective. There was a lack of high-quality

topic for years and compiled so many stories

menswear that was vegan, sustainable and

and so much research, I just felt compelled

fairly-made. At the time, I think TDB was

to put them into a book as an overview of the

the only men’s vegan lifestyle website out

issue and a starting point for further research.

there. Long story short, I soon realised how

I really do hope it is used as a catalyst.

impactful and influential fashion actually is.

Fashion should be taken very seriously — it’s a global industrial complex affecting billions and ecosystems everywhere. But on top of

WHAT CAN YOU TELL US ABOUT IT?

that, it is a system of symbols, status and

All I will say is that there were many, many

identity that should not be underestimated.

images and stories that ended up in the

So I began designing not just to fill a void

book that made my jaw drop when I found

I saw in the market, but as an activist

them. Everything from Vogue having an

wanting to use the leverage of fashion’s

animal advocacy column from 1900-1910

influence to create aspiration, desire and

to seeing ads for vegan fashion from the

articulation around values of compassion

late 1800s to understanding the number of

and sustainability.

animals who have been driven to extinction

of animals, hundreds of millions of workers

PAGE 42

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or

near-extinction

because

of

WHERE CAN WE GET THE BOOK?

fashion’s

insatiable appetite for animals’ bodies. You

You can get it from my BraveGentleMan.com

have to read this book. I feel like it needs to

webstore, directly from VeganPublishers or

become documentary as well.

on Amazon. There are also a handful of small stores carrying it in New York and Philadelphia.

People in the UK can get a signed copy from

WHERE DO YOU HOPE TO SEE THE BOOK GO?

brightzine.co and Londoners can pick one up

As a coffee table book, it was designed

Keep up to date with Joshua on his website

to appeal to creative professionals and

thediscerningbrute.com, and check out

visually-oriented people. I hope it gets

his ethical sustainable clothing company

at The BRIGHT Store.

picked up more and more by mainstream

Brave GentleMan at bravegentleman.com

bookstores and I hope that instructors use

™thediscerningbrute ™bravegentleman

it as a textbook.

PAGE 43

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B R I G HT

INSTA HEROES

PAGE 45

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ALEX NICOLAU, CO-FOUNDER & CREATOR OF NINI ORGANICS GIVES US THE LOWDOWN ON REAL GREEN BEAUTY & SKINCARE Hey lovers, my name is Alex, and I co-founded

Beauty which is home to an array of green beauty

and created the organic skin food line NINI

products from health and wellbeing to makeup.

Organics with my sister Nicole back in 2015.

You can find us in Wood Green, North London.

My journey started way back in 2006 when I was

I created a super easy-to-remember tool - INSULT -

one of the unlucky few who developed an extreme

that will help stop you from ever purchasing another

spout of acne all over my face. After trying

insulting product again. Skincare can be confusing

everything I could and nothing working for me,

and conflicting with so many brands, experts,

I was then put on Roaccutane, which can have

writers and influencers all telling you different

serious and dangerous side effects.

things, and with giant brands pushing ‘green’ and ‘natural’ products to meet consumer demand, we

Let’s fast forward to now where I created my skin

need to look a little deeper into their ingredients.

food line of natural and organic products that help to feed and nourish the skin, bringing more clarity

Here in the green beauty world - which is what I like to

and evenness to our complexions by only using

call ‘the alternative universe to skincare’ - we are here

the best herbal ingredients. Since launching NINI

to help, guide and educate our customers to make

Organics in 2017, I opened NINI’s House of Green

better choices for their skin and for the environment.

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NEVER I

I is for ingredients. With everything that I buy, the first thing I look at is the ingredients list. I have a strict policy with the brands that I stock in store that they have to follow my all organic and natural guidelines. I don’t have time for chemical waste or products predominately made up of synthetically-produced ingredients. Here are my top 11 ingredients to avoid at all costs: Propolyne Glycol, Parabens, EDTA, SLS, Parfum, PEGS, Paraffinum Liquidum (mineral oil), Dimethicone, Methylisothiazolinone, Methylchloroisothiazolinone and Phthlatates.

N

N is for nature. As a rule, I never reach for promise products like Retinols (I’m all about the Plantinols), Anti-ageing, or vitamin C products. I find the messaging behind these kind of products to be quite bullying and negative. We should all embrace the aging process, and if you want to support your skin then do so by keeping it hydrated and dewy through incredible natural ingredients like Sea buckthorn oil, Hyaluronic acid, Phtyo pepetides, Squalane, Jojoba oil, and many more.

S

S is for sustainability. This one is all about the materials that the product is housed in. I always reach for glass being the main bulk of the product because glass is more easily recyclable and it’s better for preserving the integrity of the ingredients as well. Plastic is not the devil, its just that recycling has become so difficult that if you can get what you’re looking for in solid form (packaging-free), or in glass, then that’s always going to be the best option.

U

U is for unnecessary bulking agents. Ingredients are always listed in descending order, meaning the first ingredients is the main ingredient. Here are a few of my top bulking agents to watch out for Aqua (water), Paraffinum liqidum (mineral oil), Dimethicone, and refined oils - such as sunflower oil or coconut oil. These cheap ingredients do little to nothing for the skin. Sunflower and coconut oil can be good, but only when used in certain ways and when they come from organic sources.

L T

L is for love. Who made your products, and why? Was it a small company owned by people who care about your skin and the environment, or a mass-produced company that supports cheap labour, plastic consumption, and puts no love or thought into the products? Let’s keep the independent companies alive and help them thrive, rather than the big corporations who are just in it for the profit.

T is for total. How much is the product, and is it worth your hard-earned cash? It is understandable that people tend to reach for cheaper products, but this can lead to frustration and waste. I always refer to the organic beauty world as skin insurance.

The formulas are always made more concentrated, so they last longer and are more effective, meaning you get way more for your buck.

YOUR SKIN AGAIN PAGE 47

B R I G HT

So, that’s my little handy guide to help you

Now you know how to shop wisely and

make better choices when shopping for your

insult-free, I want to share with you my ninestep skincare routine.

beauty products. Always search for the niche

Now, that’s not to say that you do each step

shop as local as possible, or come to the

brands that can’t be found ever ywhere and House of Green Beauty and do a sit down

ever y day, but it’s my guide to which products

consultation with me called ‘The Green

you should own. This way, you will always

Switch,’ where I can help switch you over

finish and replace your products instead of

to a greener and healthier skincare routine.

hoarding skincare. One thing that people

need to keep in mind is that products do have

Green kisses,

a shelf life, and if you have 30 serums you’ll

Alex

never finish them all at complete freshness.

Plus, our skin is ver y clever and it’s not a

Visit NINI’s House Of Green Beauty at:

fan of over layering, which confuses the skin

Blue House Yard, 5 River Park Rd, Wood

and can make it react in a negative way. So

Green, London N22 7TB

rather than having nine steps, I have my nine skincare essentials for glowing healthy

Check out NINI Organics skincare range

and balanced skin.

niniorganics.com ™niniorganics

A le x ’s N in e E s s e nt

ia ls

1 . O il C le a n s er a n s er 2 . Det oxif y ing C le 3 . E x f ol iat or 4. Mask 5 . M ist 6 . H A S er u m w h at 7 . O il (de p e n d ing on y our s k in n e ed s ) lo ck in 8 . B e a ut y B a lm t o m oi st ure 9 . SP F PAGE 48

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268 HACKNEY RD, LONDON,

E2 7SJ

E T H IC A L L I F E ST Y L E STO R E & COFFEE SHOP Come to our home in the heart of East London - The BRIGHT Store. Browse beautiful products from independent ethical vegan businesses hand selected by the BRIGHT team, as well as the full BRIGHT range. While you’re here you can grab a hand-crafted coffee made with beans from The ™thebrightstoreldn

Fields Beneath alongside some incredible vegan treats (warm cheese toastie croissant anyone?)

And of course, no visit to The BRIGHT Store is

Photos by Charlie Edwards ™charlie_now

complete without a vegan queen mirror selfie.

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INTERVIEW WITH A VEGAN QUEEN

EVANNA LYNCH Interview by Laura Callan™lauralollipop Photos by Charlie Edwards ™charlienow

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Actor, activist, entrepreneur, podcast host, Vegan Queen.

Known worldwide for her role as Luna Lovegood in the Harry Potter film empire, Evanna Lynch has spent recent years balancing acting with hosting The Chickpeeps Podcast, running a vegan beauty company and being a vocal advocate for animals.

Evanna met us at The BRIGHT Store to chat all things veganism, activism, podcasting and more.

WHAT HAVE YOU BEEN UP TO RECENTLY?

WHAT’S YOUR VEGAN ORIGIN STORY?

I did Dancing with the Stars in the US in 2018 and

I went vegetarian when I was a kid because

remembered how much I love live performance

I was disgusted by the idea of meat, in a

so when I came back to London I decided to

visceral way. I just stopped seeing meat as

focus on stage and did two plays last year. I then

food. I went vegan about 5 or 6 years ago

took some time off to work on season two of The

when I read Johnathan Safron Foer’s Eating

ChickPeeps podcast. We had so much fun doing

Animals. I was living in LA and surrounded

season one but logistically it was a bit of a mess

by vegans who made it seem normal and

as we were so inexperienced at podcasting. We

possible, even joyful. At the time my family

restructured it, hired a few people and created a

were really confused by it. I get really

really great, strong and functional season two!

obsessive about things and I think they

In the first season we covered a lot of the

thought this was my new ‘thing’. My mum was

basics of veganism, questions a newbie vegan

very wary and was worried it was connected

would have, and this season we dive into more

to me having an eating disorder when I was

niche, complicated topics, things that vegans

younger, thinking we were going back there.

debate over. We’re having a real range of

She saw it as a very restrictive lifestyle.

guests on this season from chefs to actors,

My family definitely had this perception of

comedians to entrepreneurs so I’m excited to

veganism as being ‘extreme’.

hear all their personal stories.

HOW WOULD YOU LIKE TO SEE THE VEGAN MOVEMENT AND COMMUNITY DEVELOP AND GROW?

HOW HAVE YOUR FAMILY’S ATTITUDES CHANGED?

I’d love to see more storytellers in the vegan

I became vegan I cooked her a full meal and

movement. People who combine their passion

she was like, “when did you start cooking?”

for activism with their performance related

as I simply didn’t cook before I went vegan.

skills. Movies like Okja, that speak to people in

I had a difficult relationship with food and I

a soulful way. Or like Babe or Charlotte’s Web,

generally tried to not think about it. By the

those movies reached my heart as a child. We

end of the trip told me she was really proud

have so much information and knowledge out

of me for changing my relationship to food

there in favour of veganism and yet people are

as I was now focusing on ethics as opposed

still not moved to change. I feel we need more

to

heart-centred activism, more storytellers.

based approach really opened her mind to

The first time my mum came to visit me after

PAGE 54

nutrition

and

calories.

This

belief-

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veganism. My family are mostly all vegetarian

Healthy, so as long as they are still open to

and working toward veganism. My dad is 72

learning about it and adapting recipes then

and he said to me recently that he’s repelled

I’m proud of them. They’re going in the right

by the idea of meat, which is a huge shift - he

direction. My little brother recently read

used to eat everything. They appreciate that

Sapiens and immediately became vegetarian

vegan alternatives can be just as delicious as

for ethical reasons and is on his way to

eggs and dairy milk but they still views those

veganism. I didn’t even have to convince him,

products as very exotic and that foregoing

he found the book himself and it clicked for

eggs at breakfast is a form of martrydom.

him. You can’t make people vegan; you can

I wish they would delve a bit deeper into the

support and inspire them but they have to

ethical reasons for veganism, but my mum

make the decision for themselves.

is a big fan of the Happy Pear and Wicked

YOU CAN’T MAKE PEOPLE VEGAN; YOU CAN SUPPORT AND INSPIRE THEM BUT THEY H AV E T O M A K E THE DECISION FOR THEMSELVES

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WHAT TIPPED YOU OVER TO BECOMING AN ACTIVIST? One aspect of being in the spotlight means that there are going to be dozens of charities reaching out to you asking you to lend your voice to campaigns and speak up for many worthy causes. When I was younger I said yes to every charity request but I often just felt like a talking doll. I found that when animal rights charities contacted me to share their message I was speaking the words from my heart, I wasn’t just a mouthpiece. Animal rights was the cause that broke my heart. So I started doing some activism and the more I spoke about it the more people asked me why I wasn’t vegan.

Those questions led to me picking up Eating Animals and that compelled me to become vegan. The more I read, the more I realised this is the most horrible, unjust thing happening in the world right now and so through finding out about veganism I developed a real passion for speaking out about it.

WHAT LED YOU TO START A PODCAST? I’ve always loved podcasts. I feel a lot of nostalgia because I’ve been listening to them for over a decade! I started with Mugglecast and Pottercast when I was younger because I was such a Harry Potter geek and a lonely teenager and the hosts of those podcasts felt like my friends! Podcasts really do keep you company in the quiet of your own mind and can connect you to the sense of community surrounding your passions. This was pre-social media and we didn’t have an outlet for niche, nerdy passions.

And I noticed veganism was one of my interests that lacked a sense of community around it, and as soon as I started listening to vegan podcasts I felt more normal and more supported in my beliefs and my challenges. That helped me adapt

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WHO ARE SOME INSPIRING PEOPLE YOU’VE MET THROUGH YOUR VEGAN ACTIVISM WORK? The first is kind of my original inspiration, my ‘vegan fairy godmother’, Victoria Moran who is one of the most kind, lovely and spiritual people you will ever meet. She has a podcast to life as a new vegan. I also love that you can

and runs the Main Street Vegan Academy

just have podcasts on in the background, you

training people to be vegan lifestyle coaches.

don’t have to sit and listen studiously to them.

I saw her speak at VegFest a few years ago

So that’s why we started ChickPeeps, I wanted

about ‘attractivism’: activism where you’re

to provide company and light-heartedness and

living your most radiant best life and that way

a sense of community to other lonely vegans

you attract people to you and your cause.

on their commute home from work! I found that

That was profound to me and how I try to do

there was a lot of disagreement in the vegan

my activism. Trying to inspire and encourage

community which didn’t appeal to me. I want

rather than guilt and shame people.

a community of friends just chatting, having a

The other person I would mention who works

laugh and talking about vegan life. I’m lucky I

very differently from Victoria is Ingrid Newkirk,

have so many vegan friends now, and we catch

the founder of PETA who can be a controversial

up about vegan news and new vegan items,

and polarising figure. She has so much

and when I hang out with people it feels like

passion and conviction and doesn’t give a shit

this is the norm. Through the podcast I wanted

what anyone thinks about her. Most people

to create that space and normality for others -

are conscious of their image as much as their

people that want to be vegan but don’t know

message, but not Ingrid. She is 100% doing it

how to start, or for somewhere to ask questions

for animals. I know PETA has made mistakes

and feel that they are part of a community.

with their PR tactics in the past but I don’t think I’ve encountered someone so purely devoted to animals and so single-mindedly obsessed with ending animal oppression as Ingrid, and that’s the core of PETA’s mission and the motive for their bold tactics. She struck me as such a kind, sensitive person, someone who feels the pain of animals very deeply and that compels her to work ceaselessly for animal liberation and to be quite radical in her approach.

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LET’S TALK ABOUT THE KINDER BEAUTY BOX! Yes, let’s! I run it with my friend and business partner, Daniella Monet, an actor and activist, and our other co-founder/president, Andrew.

We started talking about how nobody wants animal testing to happen on products they’re paying for, and yet actually going cruelty-

DO YOU FEEL THAT YOU HAVE TO WORK DIFFERENTLY TO MEN AROUND YOU?

free was considerably harder than endorsing the idea. We figured that having a monthly subscription box of beauty products is a

I don’t know that I feel I have to work differently

great way to introduce people to a range of

to men so much as I have to remind myself to

vegan and cruelty-free brands, emphasise the

back myself the way men are more inclined to

reasons why we should shop cruelty-free, and

do. As women we question ourselves so much

help them to gradually transition to all vegan

and spend a lot of time apologising. We need

and cruelty-free makeup. This is what I mean

to just go for things more, and be like, “I got

by attractivism!

this” rather than all the second guessing and self-doubt.

I’ve noticed it on the podcast. For every

HOW ARE YOU ENJOYING RUNNING A BUSINESS?

episode I’ll be so thorough, I’ll have all these notes, I’ll spend hours researching and reading about the guest, and sometimes

I like it! However, it doesn’t come naturally

Robbie will turn up like “Alright, what are we

to me. I think the arts are so much about

doing today?” And I’m like, “did you not read

authenticity, expressing yourself however you

my five page episode plan?!” Eventually I

feel, not being dictated to by others. As an

forced him to read it in advance as we have to

actor it’s drilled into you ‘what other people

be in sync, but it’s also showed me that I could

think of you is not our business’ because if you

just have more faith in myself, that I don’t

tried to people please or cared too much about

need to work so hard to prove my worth. A

people’s judgments you wouldn’t last a day! A

lot of men have this confidence, this swagger,

huge part of sticking at it is simply developing

this “yeah I know what I’m doing”, even when

a thick skin. And business is the opposite!

they don’t. You can sit back and resent them

For example, we noticed after a few months

for it or you can borrow a bit of that bravado.

of running the business that customers were

That’s what I’m trying to do now anyway. I’ll

demanding more ‘clean’ beauty products. I

probably always like to over-prepare but I am

resisted that at first because I worried we would

betting on myself more and apologising less.

limit ourselves that way and I said let’s just do our thing. But Andrew taught me that you have to work hard to please customers, to earn their loyalty, and that people-pleasing is our job!

It’s a whole different mindset. So we are now moving to being a vegan AND clean beauty box. I’m learning a lot from our customers and how to strike the balance between honouring my vision and building a successful brand.

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WHAT ARE YOUR THOUGHTS ON THE ONSLAUGHT OF EX VEGANS WE’VE HAD? I

mean,

I

environmental

roll

my or

when

another

plant-based

eyes

vegan

announces they’re not vegan now. Shocker! I don’t really follow too many of them because my greatest motive is the animals. But it’s disappointing

when

someone’s

personal

decision to denounce veganism causes them to come out and say that veganism on the whole is dangerous. It’s unfair and disrespectful to all the people who are thriving on a vegan diet.

That said, I think it’s up to each individual to explore and decide why they are vegan. Maybe it’s good that key figures in the movement are disappointing their audience because it’s more empowering to find the motives and inspiration within yourself. I really disagree with the cultish mentality of taking on something as important and personal as veganism because some influencer said so. That is dangerous.

Be vegan for you! Wish those ex-vegans well.

It’s a pity they felt unsupported. Use their spreading of misinformation about veganism as an opportunity to strengthen your commitment to veganism and to advocate more effectively, joyfully and responsibly for it.

WHAT’S NEXT FOR YOU?

Check out and subscribe to Evanna’s monthly

We just wrapped season two of The ChickPeeps

vegan beauty box at kinderbeauty.com

so for the summer I’m keeping my head down

You can listen to listen to The ChickPeeps

writing a book. I’ve been asking the universe for

Podcast Series 1 and 2 on all regular podcast platforms.

some time at home to write and lockdown really

™ msevylynch ™ kinderbeautybox ™ chickpeepspod

came through with that! As for the podcast, our next season will start in September, but in the meantime we are also running a summer vegan book club via our ChickPeeps Patreon in an attempt to discuss some topics covered on the season in more depth with listeners.

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FORGET SUSTAINABILITY Written by Sareta Puri™saretapuri

Sustainability is the current buzzword. Say

Projects from across the world are able to apply

you’re living sustainably or low impact and

and word is spread through various funding

you get instant eco kudos.

websites, organisations and individuals that already work with projects on the ground and

But what does it actually mean? It can broadly

via social media. This year over 250 projects

be defined as maintaining or sustaining a

applied and a team of judges created a shortlist

certain level of activity. In environmental

of 50 then a final list of 11 projects from nine

terms this means being sparing with resources

countries. There are four categories supporting

to reduce damage such as not using single-

projects from those at inception stage to those

use plastic products or boycotting palm oil.

campaigning or lobbying to influence policy -

These are often the most environmentally or

with prizes ranging from £10,000 to £25,000.

least toxic options but that doesn’t mean that

No funding is giving to any project that is

they will be enough to stop the devastation

involved in direct slaughter or ill treatment of

to our oceans, lands and habitats. To truly

animals. These can be life-changing sums for

combat the effects of climate change we

many of these projects, plus the opportunity to

need sustainability 2.0 and that is where

come together over four days gives them the

regeneration comes in. Regenerating goes

opportunity to network, share skills and spread

beyond sustaining by enabling eco and social

the word of what they’re doing.

systems to repair and grow.

Projects that are truly regenerative have a In 2019 we attended the Lush Spring Prize

holistic approach, they build capacity across

to find out more about incredible global

the

projects that work on environmental and social

resources and communities. They nurture the

regeneration. The prize is jointly run by Ethical

communities that they are based in, often by

Consumer and Lush Cosmetics and aims to

focussing on their traditional methods that

support communities and cultures through

have been lost over years. Many of the issues

resource provision, skills development and

that the planet is facing are direct effects of

prize funds totalling £200,000.

colonialism, white power and land grabbing

PAGE 62

community

and

they

restore

natural

B R I G HT

that has been going on for centuries. From oil

experiences shared at the Spring Prize were

drilling in the Amazon that affects indigenous

truly moving and inspiring.

tribes and destroys habitats to families being displaced in inner London, there is a system

We heard from Sfruttzero, a south Italian

of social and, let’s face it, ethnic cleansing

collective

happening across the world. What is needed

economy to help support African migrants

is a movement that empowers and supports

through tomato growing and sauce production.

indigenous communities and the diaspora to

The initiative provides workers with an hourly

take control of their narratives and culture. As

wage for a 5-6 hour day, allowing them to work

one delegate at the Spring Prize put it “we need

in the cooler parts of the day, rather than the

to unlearn the green revolution and rejuvenate

10-15 hours of back-breaking work paid by the

the pre-colonial practices and systems.�

kilo that exploited pickers are doing across the

that

has

created

a

solidarity

globe to supply the fruit and veg that ends on A common example of regeneration is via

our plate.

permaculture: a more holistic approach to agriculture

self-

Another example is Guba who have been

sustaining and revitalise natural ecosystems.

where

developments

are

running a permaculture training farm for 10

Rooted in permaculture is an understanding of

years in Eswatini (formerly Swaziland) which

the planet we live on and an ability to nurture

enables trainees to learn skills that they can

the land like it has nurtured us, whilst also

practice at home and eventually become self-

respecting all people on it.

sufficient, not only to support themselves but also to create an income. At Guba they look

From YICE Uganda, who train refugees in

beyond farming skills and also focus on wider

permaculture skills to ZIMSOFF in Zimbabwe,

issues such as parenting skills, domestic

who support smallholder farms to practice

violence and shelter. This is a perfect example

sustainable and viable ecological agriculture

of permaculture projects being more holistic

in a drought-afflicted region, the stories and

than just farming initiatives.

WE NEED TO TALK REGENERATION PAGE 63

B R I G HT

But not all regeneration projects relate to

Regeneration isn’t always seen as a positive,

farming and growing.

par ticularly in urban regeneration, where the term is banded about to cover up for

In Ecuador, Alianza Ceibo is a collective of

developments that are not in the community

four indigenous communities that tell their

interest. This was the case in the proposed

stories through filmmaking. Fighting against oil

regeneration

exploitation, they realised that they could use

have reduced social housing to 82 out of

film as a weapon to transform the situation,

2700 homes. In response to this PEACH

amplify voices and fuel resistance as images

(People’s Empowerment Alliance of Custom

are a more powerful tool than words. Coletivo

House) - a shor tlisted project for the prize

Beture - a filmmaking collective in the Kayapo

- was established in 2013 and developed

tribe of Ecuador - said that they often make

an alternative regeneration plan led by the

films to suit the powerful white men: short,

community.

snappy edits with limited dialogue, as they know

and community organisers, who developed

that is what will have more of an effect on them.

a plan that met the outcomes desired by the

in

Newham,

PEACH

which

employed

would

architects

council - including number of homes, access to facilities, and green spaces. The council has since created a regeneration board

OTHER WINNERS INCLUDE:

where 50% of the members are elected from the community and there has been a

Apthapi

Communidades

del

Vivir

Bien

commitment towards genuine par ticipation.

in Bolivia run a ‘Living Well’ project that will

As one member of PEACH said at the Lush

create a school of living well to teach people

Spring Prize “regeneration is about growing

how to live well through respect for the land

and changing to make things better. It is not

and themselves.

longer a dir ty word.”

● Verdegaia in Spain works with volunteers to

One of the most interesting discussions was

restore the land devastated in the 2017 forest

around ecotourism and how it can suppor t

fires in Galacia whilst raising awareness of the

regenerative work. The Ripanu project in

importance of regeneration.

Ecuador will use ecotourism to suppor t

●

the Sapara people in the Amazon and fight network

against oil exploitation. However, it was

permaculture

pointed out that ecotourism can be damaging

organisations to share practice and develop

when it is not done right. For example, when

awareness of existing initiatives.

it is done through large tour operators who

ECOLISE that

is

supports

a

European

wide

community-led

don’t understand the local communities, Labratorio Sicilia 2030 works with local

there can be more harm than good.

groups to regenerate and grow sustainably by working towards the UN 2030 Sustainable

Ecotourism of ten brings minimal legitimate

Development Goals.

benefits to communities in local areas - just consider all the communities around safari

INSO in Mexico’s Slow Water project is

parks in countries like Zimbabwe who are

tackling the water crisis in Oaxaca that has

given a handful of school books when the

been devastating local communities. This

tour operators are raking in thousands

is done through training, and working with

of

stakeholders.

ecotourism is of ten an excuse for white

PAGE 64

dollars

ever y

week.

Additionally,

B R I G HT

A member of Ripanu, one of the winners of the Intentional Project Awards speaking at the LUSH Spring Prize 2019

saviour

far

website at ecolise.eu which has a map of

beyond going to a community we have no

activities

-

we

should

be

activities and groups across Europe, and

connection with just for a photo op with a

most impor tantly find out more about all the

cute black kid. The message was clear from

Spring Prize winners from 2019 by visiting

par ticipants af fected by ecotourism - go

springprize.org

™lushspringprize

directly to communities if you can, engage with legitimate organisations and really assess whether your visit is doing more

Sources:

harm than good.

New trend report: the New Sustainability: Regeneration (J Walter Thomson Intellegence,

Being a par t of the Lush Spring Prize was

2018)

one of the most eye-opening and impactful

h t t p s : / / w w w. j w t i n t e l l i g e n c e . c o m / 2 0 1 8 / 0 9 /

conference experiences that I have had. It

new-trend-repor t-the-new-sustainability-

showed me that there is always more that

regeneration/

we can do to suppor t the future of this planet.

The Lush Spring Prize 2019, Emerson College, Sussex and Rich Mix, London

The first step has to be to learn. Take a step back from what you know. Look for

The Lush Spring Prize: A Background Paper

projects in your area, visit the ECOLISE

(ECRA, September 2016)

PAGE 65

PAGE 54

PAGE 55

B R I G HT

COOL SHIT

- BOOK -

- SKINCARE -

- BRAND -

Invisible Women proves that

This is editor Laura’s pick

After a hugely successful

in our society, what is male is

because she’s one tired vegan

crowdfunding campaign, this

universal and what is female

queen. Glossier’s Bubblewrap

super cool sustainable brand

is niche. Perez shows us all

under eye (and lip) cream is

is up and running with their

the glaring gender data gaps

designed to moisturise, plump

full clothing line. Think neutral

and how these impact women,

and smooth out those crepey

tones, organic fabrics, and

from car safety built for male

under eyes making you look

ethics in the right place. Slow

bodies, to smartphones too big

less crinkled and more like

fashion is the way forward,

for women’s hands to women’s

you had enough sleep this

and here you can pick up

unpaid care burdens. This isn’t

week. It’s £23 but you only

some staple pieces that will

an attack on men, but rather a

use a tiny bit per application

last you in the long run.

call for more fair and balanced

so it lasts ages. And it seems

data that includes all people.

to actually work...

A truly fascinating read.

™ccriadoperez

™glossier

™trace.collective

PAGE 68

B R I G HT

OUR C O O L SHIT CUR ATO R S BR I NG Y O U T HE BE ST ST UFF T H IS ISS UE .

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- APP -

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allows people with visual

privilege and capitalism

put one book in Cool Shit

impairments to call a sighted

in the yoga and wellness

this issue but we’re in the

person to help them.It

industry. Expect some blunt,

business of getting people to

could be help with reading

honest takes which call out

read stuff, okay?

something, checking the

cultural appropriation and

An Opinionated Guide

numbers on a loyalty card or

whitewashing in episodes

To Vegan London from

what setting they’ve put the

including ‘White Women

Hoxton Mini Press is a

slow cooker on. You get a

Killed Yoga’ and ‘Vegans

cute little book containing

notification when someone

Killed Yoga’. Educational

a gorgeous selection of the

needs help, and each call only

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best places in London for

takes a couple of minutes, but

it’s a must-listen - not just for

vegan food, according to

can make a big difference.

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IG food queen Sara Kiko

interested in equality.

Pipowya™shisodelicious.

™bemyeyesapp

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PAGE 69

™hoxtonminipress

B R I G HT

TALKING INTERSE

Written by Evie Muir™xeviemuir

If you haven’t been sleeping on developments

veganism and feminism long before it became

within activist circles, you’ve probably seen

an

the term ‘intersectionality’ thrown about.

‘absent referent’ to describe the “interweaving

And for good reason, as it is recognised as

of the oppression of women and animals”,

key to ensuring equality within social and

she recognised that there are historical,

political activism. Without an intersectional

cultural and institutional mechanisms which

approach, a movement excludes the most

normalises a distance in perception, allowing

marginal members of society by reinforcing

animals and oppressed humans to be seen as

problematic power structures, inequalities

something as opposed to someone. However,

and systems of oppression.

the mainstream vegan movement still has a

infamous

buzzword.

Using

the

term

long way to go to in applying intersectionality, Kimberlé Crenshaw first introduced the term

ensuring that all members of society are

as a tool for understanding “how multiple

able to access a vegan lifestyle, free from

forms of inequality or disadvantage compound

prejudice and discrimination. Presently, the

themselves, and often are not understood

mainstream vegan movement is elitist: it

within conventional ways of thinking in anti-

is centred on a privileged majority who can

racism or feminism or whatever social justice

dismiss the existence of oppressions. “New

advocacy

does

wave” veganism has been whispered about,

veganism as an activist movement also needs

one that is more inclusive, accessible and

to be intersectional?

ethical, but this has so far amounted to no

structures

we

have.”

So,

more than a few ripples in our ever expanding In The Sexual Politics of Meat, Carol J.

vegan pond. How then are we meant to create

Adams recognises the intersection between

this tsunami of change?

PAGE 70

B R I G HT

CTIONALITY

This article attempts to contribute to this

“other”. It is written from the position that racism

obscure

examining

is not solely defined as “bad acts inflicted by

veganism in relation to racism. First, it is

bad people” (acts that can be expunged when

important to remind ourselves that animal

weighed up against comparative “good acts”

cruelty is inherently a racial issue which

such as loving animals.) Rather, this article

disproportionately

recognises

water

metaphor

affects

by

communities

of

that

privilege

affords

benefits

colour globally, both directly and indirectly. We

which are reinforced both consciously and

know 75% of global soybean crops alone are

unconsciously and which perpetuate systems of

used to feed livestock, whilst the World Bank

racial oppression. With this framework, it is my

estimates that 10% of the world population

hope that this article welcomes the possibility

are living in poverty on below $1.90 a day. We

of analysis of a movement which is undeniably

know food deserts are real issues linked with

rooted in good intentioned ethics of equality.

the rate at which we consume meat, yet why

Veganism is often placed on a pedestal of

do we find it so easy to separate the human

moral righteousness, and this article is not

impacts from the animal? Why are we so quick

here to dispute the validity of our plight for

to say “animals aren’t ours for humans to

animal liberation. However, our movement is

exploit” when equally, animal liberation should

rarely critiqued in context of a broader narrative

not mitigate human rights?

which includes human oppression, and surely it’s about time this happened right? So, this

At this point, I think it’s important to clarify that

article argues that an introspective reflection

this article is written in acknowledgement that

on how veganism is as complicit in systems of

whiteness is positioned as the norm and any

oppression as any other institution is necessary

deviation from this becomes classified as the

for equitable, sustainable growth.

PAGE 71

B R I G HT

ECONOMIC BARRIERS Ironically, we tell people how inexcusably

CULTURAL BARRIERS

easy veganism is to adopt, overlooking how inaccessible it can be. At face value, our

Cultural

argument seems valid, due to the scores

their heritage and culture. He tells a story of

spiritual, religious, geographical, economic,

his grandma – a Jewish WW2 survivor - and

racial and medical lines.

how her relationship with food was built on of

a determination never to starve again and to

meat-alternative

ensure that her family was always provided

products is largely only affordable for the

for: “for her, food is not food. It is terror,

privileged, working, middle class, who can

dignity,

shop at M&S or Waitrose, and who have the

our family tree”.

in England are eligible for Free School Meals (widely acknowledged as a measure of social

In Veganism in an Oppressive World, Julia

deprivation), it is not hard to see how race to

present

Feliz Brueck references Indigenous American

obstacles

belief systems which see the hunting and

for families accessing veganism, and how

eating of animals as a spiritual practice of

liberal consumerism is simply not enough. It

reincarnation. The rejection of the validity of

is important to recognise that the argument against

speciesism

doesn’t

end

with

joyfulness,

were picked from the destroyed branches of

on average, 42% of Black Caribbean children

intersect

vengeance,

love. As if the fruits she always offered us

lifestyle on top of everyday survival. When,

class

gratitude,

humiliation, religion, history, and, of course

luxury of time to dedicate to learning a new

and

be

language which grounds communities within

practical barriers of access across cultural,

range

never

of meal times and how food is a common

mainstream veganism can be insensitive to

growing

should

Safran Foer discusses the cultural significance

catering to vegan lifestyles. Nevertheless,

The

obstacles

underestimated. In Eating Animals, Jonathan

of supermarkets and restaurants who are

this view shows racism which “is reflected in

our

the way Indigenous people are treated as if

‘cow vs dog’ narrative; it extends to minority

they are more like other animals than Settlers

ethnic groups. Demanding devotion in time,

are and therefore, ill-equipped to make good

finances, energy and empathy to a cause

decisions about their territories, bodies or

from a demographic of people who experience

lives”. For the Caribbean Diaspora, food

these lived material struggles on a daily basis

is inherently associated with identity and

(and systemically robbing them of the same

belonging in the context of a society which

empathy that we extend to animals) shows

is actively exclusive. These complex cultural

them that mainstream veganism considers

and historic connotations are dismissed in

their struggles to be less important.

insensitive pleas for “everyone to be vegan – no excuses” when, as vegans, we should know better than most how eating habits form an inherent part of our identity.

PAGE 72

B R I G HT

RACIAL MANIPULATION Without this cultural context, ignorance influences problematic activist methods when canvassing on the street or advocating via social media.

REPRESENTATION

The scores of videos of white activists equating the trans-Atlantic slave trade (ironically linked

While ever we continue to centre whiteness as

to how ‘soul food’ was created from the scraps

the norm in veganism, the issues described

which plantation owners granted slaves) or the

above will never be challenged introspectively.

Holocaust, to the meat industry, as a tool to

A quick scroll through Instagram or a glance

guilt trip people of colour into ‘converting’, are

at the top vegan cookbooks shows this to be

abhorrent. Western vegans often appropriate

true. The current ‘faces of veganism’ are white

‘exotic’ recipes from other cultures, despite the

males spearheading the movement, along with

narrative that positions the West as being morally

many white female influencers. Whilst their

superior to the inhumane, uneducated savages

intentions can’t be disputed, these influencers

from overseas who continue to eat meat. In

dominate social media, representing privilege,

actuality, many cultures centre plant-based diets,

reinforcing oppressive methods of mobilisation

sometimes due to an economical default whereby

and are un-relatable to many people from

meat is an unaffordable symbol of status such as

different heritages, backgrounds, cultures or

South East Asian countries, or due to spiritual

abilities.

and ethical health motivators such as Ital food in Rastafarian culture.

The vegan movement is full of prominent activists, chefs and entrepreneurs of colour

Manipulating prominent cultural events must also

(people such as Erykah Badu, Bryant Terry,

stop. I’m surely not the only one who finds the

Akala, JME, Will.I.Am, Angela Davis, Wedaeli

preaching on Martin Luther King Day insufferable

Chibelushi,

and offensive. Telling us that “because his son’s

Russell

vegan, it’s reasonable to assume that if he was still

Tinie

Simmons,

Tempah, Vegans

Vegan of

Richa,

Colour

UK,

London Afro Vegan, Jasmine Levya, Eshe

alive he too would be vegan, therefore all black

Kiama Zuri, Rachel Ama and Forward to

people should go vegan”, not only doesn’t make

Ethiopia to name a few) whose heritage directly

sense (Hitler was supposedly vegetarian but we’re

impacts their activism, and provide platforms

not using him as a martyr) but it is built on neo-

for representation in the movement. However

colonial and frankly offensive dichotomies – black

we never see the same recognition as our

history is not white people’s to manipulate to their

white counterparts. The lack of representation

own end. There are many vegan activists of colour

presents as a barrier to people accessing

doing the work around this issue, and we are

veganism, because if we don’t see people like

invariably trolled online for doing so. White Fragility

us, it is hard to identify with a movement in

has no place in a movement based on care and

which we can’t find belonging. As Jasmine

compassion. Once again it becomes the role of

Levya states in Invisible Vegan “we need more

the marginalised to defend our lived experiences

visibility to a lifestyle that is far too invisible in

amongst fellow activists who are automatically

certain communities”.

PAGE 73

B R I G HT

INTERSECTIONALITY IN PRACTICE So, what can we do to ensure the movement is

everyone to work to decentre whiteness, and

free from animal products and discrimination?

destabilise power dynamics in a movement that

Carol

one

at its very core is built on compassion, ethics and

lacks power in the dominant culture, such

empathy towards other living beings. I’m still of

disempowerment may make one more alert

the opinion that everyone should be vegan, but

to other forms of disempowerment – privilege

am much more conscious of complexities within

resists self-examination” - that’s exactly what

a broader context. It is counterproductive to

needs to happen. A critical re-examination of

maintain a “preachy vegan” stereotype without

self and society is imperative for developing

providing tangible solutions to major problems

change in veganism. The issues summarised

of access and inclusivity.

in this article echo the voices of many other

Building

activists of colour before me, who continue to

recommendations in Veganism in an Oppressive

be marginalised. Our voices are valid and our

World, some ways in which you can begin to

analysis needs to be adopted. It is the job of

evolve your veganism include:

J.

Adams

argues

that

“when

on

Julia

Feliz

Brueck’s

a

Recognise and challenge your privilege.

a

Reject single-issue advocacy and adopt an anti-racist approach.

a

Apply a consistent anti-oppression approach, which creates an environment in which marginalised communities aren’t further oppressed

a

When vegans of colour speak, listen!

a

Do use people of colour as targets for campaigns.

a

Never use people of colour to justify the oppression of anyone.

a

Never use the historical oppression of any group to draw similarities with our fight for animals

a

Learn about and from other cultures.

a

Openly reject vegans who support or take part in racism (Anonymous for the Voiceless recently defended its right wing members who openly discriminate against minorities, stating that political alignment is a “trivial” thing).

a

Defer culturally sensitive conversations to those affected by those issues.

a

Advocate for accessible/inexpensive vegan products.

a

Apply ethical consistency in your abstinence of products– are your faux leather shoes made by fast-fashion brands built on human exploitation?

a

Allow yourself room for mistakes, without making excuses for ignorance. Be proactive in your educational growth and apologise sincerely to those who your mistakes may offend.

a

Ensure that when asking vegans of colour for advice or support, you do so with an awareness which doesn’t assume or expect cooperation. Our time, energy and knowledge does not have to be volunteered when self-education is possible, or if doing so requires (unpaid) emotional labour.

WHAT WILL YOU DO TO ENSURE YOUR ACTIVISM IS INFORMED, INCLUSIVE AND INTERSECTIONAL?

PAGE 74

B R I G HT

REFERENCES & FURTHER READING A. Breeze Harper (ed.) (2009) Sistah Vegan: Black Female Vegans Speak on Food, Identity, Health and Society Aph Ko and Syl Ko (2017) Aphro-Ism: Essays on Pop Culture, Feminism and Black Veganism from

COOKBOOKS

Two Sisters.

Carol J. Adams (2015) The Sexual Politics of Meat

Ama T. Opare (2014) Food for the Soul from Ama’s

Claire Jean Kim (2015) Dangerous Crossings:

Kitchen: Soulfood Vegan and Raw Vegan

Race, Species and Nature in a Multi-Cultural Age.

Bryant Terry (2009) Vegan Soul Kitchen

Jonathan Safran Foer (2011) Eating Animals

Bryant

Julia Feliz Bruek (2017) Veganism in an

Terry

(2014)

Afro-Vegan:

Farm-Fresh

African, Caribbean and Southern Flavours Remixed

Oppressive world: a vegans of colour community

Chat Mingkwan (2005) Buddha’s Table

project

Estee Raviv (2018) Oy Vey Vegan

Julia Feliz Bruek (2019) Veganism of Colour:

Rachel Ama (2019 )Rachel Ama’s Vegan Eats

Decentering Whiteness in Human and Nonhuman

Richa Hingle (2015) Vegan Richa’s Indian Kitchen

Liberation

Sasha Gill (2019) East Meets Vegan

Kawani AJ Brown (2016) Where does dinner come

Sasha Gill (2019) Jackfruit and Blue Ginger: Asian

from? A plant based children’s book

favourites, made Vegan.

Lambeth Education and Learning (2017) Black

Taymer Mason (2010) Caribbean Vegan

Caribbean Underachievement in Schools in

Tracye McQuirter - African American Vegan Starter

England: https://www.lambeth.gov.uk/rsu/sites/

Guide (downloadable and orderable for free)

www.lambeth.gov.uk.rsu/files/black_caribbean_ underachievement_in_schools_in_england_2017.pdf Lisa A. Kemmerer (2011) Sister Species: Women,

FILMS & DOCUMENTARIES

Animals and Social Justice Mark S. Roberts (2008) The Mark of The Beast: Animality and Human Oppression

Can you dig this?

One Green Planet (2017) How planting

Cowspiracy: The Sustainable Secret

crops used to feed livestock is contributing to

Soul Food Junkies

habitat destruction: www.onegreenplanet.org/

The Invisible Vegan

environment/livestock-feed-and-habitat-destruction/

Vegucated

Sunaura Taylor (2017) Beasts of Burden: Animal and Disability Liberation Trayce McQuirter (2010) By Any Greens Necessary: A Revolutionary Guide for Black Women who want to eat great, get healthy, lose weight and look Phat.

World Bank (2019) Poverty: www.worldbank.org/ en/topic/poverty/overview

PAGE 75

B R I G HT

OUR RESIDENT SNEAKERHEAD FROM NYC BRINGS YOU THE LATEST IN VEGAN SNEAKER CULTURE Before

there

was

“Circularity”,

there

was

“Considered”.

However (and this is a much larger story...), they accomplished a tremendous amount within that shortcoming, and this is the point I’m trying to make.

As always, it’s an honor to be provided a platform

I look to Nike to lead the conversation in their design

to communicate ideas on mindful consumption,

principles because of how massive they are, but it

so here are some real-time thoughts on what’s

doesn’t actually start there, it starts here. In our local

percolating in my ecosystem.

communities and in our communication online... In this latest offering, we are being equipped with the

In 2019 Nike rolled out “Circularity: Guiding the

knowledge that Nike has gained with their abundant

Future of Design”, a workbook crafted to provide

resources. I’ve always been concerned about

designers and product creators with a common

information accessibility and whether it is being

language for circularity. The initiative neatly lays out

given to communities and designers who really need

10 key principles in a digestible, thought-provoking

it. Too often, the information is kept at a distance

format. It’s free, it’s shareable, it contains big ideas,

and small companies struggle to unlock a path to

and it’s an essential roadmap for the future...but I

sustainability in their own practice, largely because

feel like we’ve been here before and I hope we don’t

the process is extremely challenging to implement

end up here again, and here’s what I mean:

and understand without help.

In 2005, Nike launched their first shoe under the

I recently went to an “Earth Symposium” hosted by

moniker: “Considered”, a project spawned from a

Sustainable Brooklyn, here in NYC. The afternoon

company wide training program that was launched

offered up conversations with local farmers, local

in 2000 and centered around product sustainability

designers, wellness experts, and an array of

and sustainability metrics. While the project was

sustainability

developing, NIke found that it was slow-moving

issues within our local community... and that

and complicated to implement with manufacturers

dialogue is as important as what Nike is doing. The

across the globe. The initiative sparked a small

solutions to the challenges we face are not located

revolution within footwear and inspired designers

all the way “out there”, they are truly right here...

with innovative ideas like water-based cements,

within reach. As an outcome of the symposium I was

interlocking components that required no toxins

reminded to stay focused on both, and to make a

or bonding, and in some cases the use of fully

daily impact by choosing to “vote” with my dollar (or

recycled materials to create a sneaker. They tried

pounds) on products that I believe in. Some of those

to set the gold standard of environmentally-friendly

purchases involve the local businesses I support,

execution, and, sadly, they did not ultimately

but they also touch my purchases on a large scale

achieve their version.

with brands like Nike. Every action counts.

professionals

tackling

actionable

THE AIR

B R I G HT

I’m always quick to mention that perfection is not the best way to invite people into this evolving conversation. While “Circularity” is a huge initiative from Nike, it’s greatest asset is that it’s rooted in an imperfect experiment that began almost 20 years ago. An unfortunate trend that I consistently see with large companies is that they are often afraid to discuss their efforts or unlock their research because they are afraid of backlash for not achieving perfection, and that is unfair, for all of us. Yes, we could line up to point out the failures of all industries who have harmed the environment, but our greatest tool is to promote the progress being made and communicate with each other about what we’re learning. The hope is that freedom of information is a catalyst to greater progress.

So thanks to folks like Sustainable Brooklyn and every individual and brand who is aiming to make a difference. I commend Nike for providing the new “Circularity” workbook because other brands can all learn from their extensive research, and apply it to their practices. These ideas shouldn’t be a secret, they shouldn’t exist only for the fortunate, and they certainly shouldn’t feel so far away because we’re all interconnected, and we’re all in this together. ...and just in case you forgot, The Future is Vegan.

Your friend, The Air Vegan

™theAIRVEGAN

VEGAN

B R I G HT

Photos by Mikaela Spiteri â„¢mikaelaspiteri

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THE BRIGHT CLUB THE UK’S FIRST VEGAN MEMBER’S CLUB We started BRIGHT with the aim of supporting the growing vegan community and bringing people together, and since our earliest days we’ve held events, collaborated with others and done what we can to help the community.

When we released Issue One we never would’ve dreamed of opening our own space, but we’ve done it, we have created The BRIGHT Club.

The BRIGHT Club is an event space for the vegan community. We’re putting on a range of events, but we’re inviting you to put your own on too. Whether it’s meet ups, social events, talks, panel discussions, exhibitions, product launches, or our super popular vegan queen brunch clubs, you name it, we’ll host it. This is your space.

BRIGHT has also aimed to support and nurture vegan businesses, and The BRIGHT Club is a physical space for just that. We have created a flexible workspace for co-working, meetings, conferences and staff away days. Through networking, co-working and collaboration we aim to create a hub for London’s vegan community based on shared ethical and sustainable values.

As well as a physical space, we have created an online platform for vegans and vegan businesses far and wide, with online events and networking, and a bank of resources to help with personal and business development.

Community is everything to us at BRIGHT, so join us.

THEBRIGHTCLUB.CO ™T H E B R I G H T C L U B L D N .

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REAL TALK:

ARE YOUR DRUG CHOICES ETHICAL? Written by Sareta Puri™saretapuri Illustrations by Tamsin Callan™tamsinrose

The media is keen to pull up vegans for

It was a natural high until the 19th century,

being holier-than-thou then going against

when Americans started to use it in modern

their perceived principles. An abundance

medicine. This eventually led to cocaine

of articles over the past few years have

becoming one of the most-used recreational

screamed at vegans to not do coke.

drugs of the 20th century, making mass production and loss of purity inevitable.

Some of these articles have been more tongue in cheek than others but the reality is

Nowadays, cocaine production is responsible

if you’re vegan for environmental or ethical

for some of the most devastating deforestation

reasons then taking unethically produced

in Central America and for the subsequent loss

drugs - that may also contain animal products

of habitat for hundreds of species. Do you avoid

- is problematic.

palm oil because it’s wiping out orangutans?

Well, for every gram of coke produced, four

Let’s

start

everyone’s

with -

best

everyone’s friend,

-

well,

Charlie.

not

square meters of rainforest are destroyed,

Coke.

making it just as unacceptable as palm oil.

Cocaine.

Drugs aren’t just killing animals through Coke is made from the coca plant and has

deforestation. During early production the

been used for centuries in its purest form by

coca is mixed with kerosene or diesel (yup,

indigenous people in South America who chew

the stuff for fueling machines, not people),

on the leaves as a mild natural stimulant. We

caustic soda, sometimes even battery acid

like plants so so far so good. Right?

and concrete (yum) and then the waste

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chemicals are dumped into nearby rivers

Drugs including cocaine and ecstasy are also

affecting both animal and human populations

often cut with other substances to make it

in the vicinity.

cheaper. One of these is lactose - a by-product of milk, making it a non-vegan substance.

Coca farming also uses more toxic pesticides

Sure it might not be in every gram or pill but

to clear the land, which results in the land

how are you to know?

only

being

suitable

for

coca

production.

This damage to the land ties farmers into an

What about weed, surely that’s vegan? It’s

unethical profession that comes with a whole

a plant af ter all. Bone, blood and feather

slew of human rights issues.

meal - the ground up or dried by-products of the meat industr y are commonly used

Humans are exploited throughout the process

in fer tilizers. These are the same products

- from working back-breaking hours in high

that are used on other fruit and veg like

temperatures for little money to grow the

tomatoes. Veganic - vegan and organic -

coca, to being used as mules to traffick drugs

marijuana is a thing though and is overall

across borders and then of course the unsafe

more sustainable as it uses methods like

and perilous conditions involved in selling

using compost tea bags.

and dealing. Children are being trafficked around the UK across the whole illegal drugs

Home-grown weed without these pesticides

trade - not just cocaine - with threats of rape,

is arguably pretty sustainable. But grown

violence and kidnap being real.

en

masse

not

only

are

the

pesticides

an issue but also energy consumption.

Animals are sadly also still being used for

Marijuana production in the US is one of the

trafficking drugs as a recent news story told

countr y’s most energy-intensive industries.

of a vet smuggling heroin into America in the

Then

stomachs of puppies.

undocumented workers, of ten from Mexico,

there’s

labour.

Again,

in

the

US

are employed as pickers and have harsh Being transported from Columbia to destinations

working conditions.

all across the world - with England and Wales having the highest global rates of cocaine

The common perception is that the problem is

consumption - means that coke is going to have

too big to do anything about. What difference

a pretty shoddy carbon footprint. Does anyone

will abstaining from a gram - or four - at the

take into account their weekly coke binges when

weekend do to the production of an entire

they offset their carbon footprint? It’s unlikely.

industry?

That

attitude

however

means

that more people are being exploited, more Fish have even recently been found in English

damage is being done to the land, and more

rivers with measurable amounts of coke and

animals are losing their homes and lives. In

ketamine in their systems, with additional

a similar train of thought as I might as well

reports showing that eels have been acting

continue to use single-use plastic as my

strangely due to cocaine ingestion.

tiny effort doesn’t make a difference. But if

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everyone took that approach we would never

this is certainly not common practice and

manage to regenerate the earth to where it

a significant proportion of the population

needs to be.

wouldn’t even know that animal products are often present in medication, and therefore

We’re not just talking about illegal, recreational

would not know to ask about relevant options.

drugs here. A lot of prescribed or over the counter drugs also contain animal products.

I had an experience several years ago when getting the flu jab - which I’d been getting for

A

study

of

the

100

most

commonly

years as someone more at risk - when the

prescribed drugs in the UK in 2013 showed

nurse asked if I was allergic to eggs, I said

that 74 contained one or more of lactose,

no and before I got to question her on it, the

gelatine, or magnesium stearate - a binding

jab had been done. All those years before I

fat usually derived from beef. Within these,

didn’t have a clue that egg was present which

many did not state that they contained

is actually quite worrying in case I did have

animal products.

an allergy.

Lactose is used most often as a diluent or filler

However despite all this, if someone tries to

in tablets or capsules but also as a carrier

argue that taking medicine isn’t vegan - which

in dry-powder inhalation products. Capsule

I’ve definitely been on the receiving end

painkillers are often coated in gelatine.

of - then they have failed to understand the purpose of the movement and the definition

Some types of oestrogen are derived from

of veganism which is to avoid animal products

animal products, such as Premarin, which is

wherever possible or practical.

used to treat menopausal hot flushes and is made from a pregnant mare’s urine.

So then you might argue why not just do a line of coke and have fun?

Studies have shown that it can be difficult for consumers to determine whether a particular

This is where intersectionality and human

medication contains animal products or not as

suffering come into play. If, as discussed,

there is inconsistency with labeling and what

there is any harm being done to any being -

information is shared. Current EU regulations

human or animal - then ethics would dictate

mean that manufacturers cannot state in

that you would refrain from that practice.

information leaflets if a product is suitable for

Similar to avoiding fast fashion clothes that

vegans or vegetarians as these are seen as

have been produced in sweatshops with

lifestyle choices.

minimal rights for workers.

NICE (National Institute for Health and Care

At the end of the day it’s a personal choice

Excellence)

that

but if you are striving to make an ethical and

healthcare professionals should ask patients

environmental impact on the planet perhaps

about preferences and concerns. However,

it’s time to think again before calling the man.

recommendations

state

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L OW IM PA C T, L O W CO S T Written by Emma Oldham

™the_wild_mum .

Living a zero-waste lifestyle sounds dreamy. No plastics, no waste, no unnecessar y clutter. Ever ything made and purchased with purpose.

From bamboo cutler y sets to glass coffee cups and cloth face wipes.... throwing yourself into a zero-waste lifestyle can get expensive. If we are not careful, this cost can end up demotivating us in the next steps of our zero-waste journey.

But, do not feel discouraged. I’m here to prove that zero-waste is affordable and that actually, many items can save you money. Move over ‘single-use’ society.

Here are 8 items, all £10 or under, showcasing how zero-waste living is affordable, enjoyable and far more purposeful.

SHAMPOO BAR, KITENEST The prime solution to annihilating plastic bottles

from

the

bathroom.

This

zesty

lemon bar arrives naked. No packaging, just natural wholesome goodness. Lather the bar into your hands and apply to your hair for a natural shine and strengthening.

The bar’s ingredients are printed onto seed card, so once done, you can transform into wildflowers. Now that is ‘blooming’ good zero-waste. £6.95 kitenest.co.uk ™kitenest

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CONDITIONER BAR, ZEN GARDEN A companion to your lemon shampoo bar.

Let

this

floral

conditioner

bar

calm down your day and preser ve the balance oxf your scalp. Loaded with rose essential oil, it will promote hair growth and prevent dandruf f. Petite, plastic-free and handmade in Leicester. £8.50 zengarden.shop ™_zengarden_

VEGAN CAKE MASCARA, BAIN & S AV O N No space for waste here. Handmade in Cumbria, this vegan mascara cake is all natural. Save your old mascara wand and roll it into the cake before applying to your lashes. Not only does this prolong the life of an existing lash wand, but it helps eliminate plastic makeup going to landfill. This product is diver se. Use it as an eyeliner or eyebrow filler when applied with a moisturised brush.

Each tin is

finished with a 100% organic preser vative to avoid long term microbial growth. When all used up, recycle the tin as storage for earrings or hair slides. £8.50 bain-savon.co.uk

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™ bainandsavon

FOOD WRAPS, VEGAN FOOD WRAPS Im pressively

ver satile.

From

keeping

your sarnies fresh to folding into a pouch for filling with loose grains, or covering over bowls, these vegan wax-wraps do it all. They are guaranteed to reduce the amount of clingfilm, tin foil and other unnecessar y

pac kaging

creeping

into

your home. They can be washed and re-treated making them a long-lasting kitchen essential. £10 veg anfoodwr aps.co.uk

™veg anfoodwr aps

U N S P O N G E , AV O C A D O H O M E M A D E If you replace your kitchen sponge on a weekly basis, you could be sending 50-60 sponges to landfill a year. Swapping to a reusable will not only reduce you waste, but it will also save you money and help your health! The average kitchen sponge is 200,000 times dir tier than a toilet seat and harbour s 10 million bacteria per sq uare

inch!

These

handmade

cotton

sponges will get you into great practice of washing your sponges, helping to kill of f bacteria. Cotton on top and organic waf fle fabric underneath, these reusables can scrub away dir t. They’re also stuf fed with Kapok - a natural plant fibre, so when your sponge has finally croc ked it, you can com post it. They look great too. £6 for two Etsy: avocadohandmadeUK

™avocadohandmade

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P L A N TA B L E G R E E T I N G C A R D S , LOOP LOOP A l a s , yo u n o l o n g e r h ave to d re a d p i c k i n g up plastic encased cards! These beautiful h a n d d r aw n g re et i n g c a r d s a re c o m p l e te l y c o m p o s t a b l e a n d p l a s t i c - f re e . S o p h i e h a s t h o u g h t o f t h e c a r d ’s f u t u re w i t h p o l l i n a to r s i n m i n d . W h e n i t i s t i m e to s ay g o o d bye , yo u c a n p l a n t t h e c a r d a n d wa t c h i t g r o w i n to f l owe r s ! N o t r a c e o f wa s te ! N o w t h a t i s s o m et h i n g to c e l e b r a te ! £2.90 E t s y: L o o p L o o p C r a f t s

™t h i n k _ l o o p l o o p

POT BRUSH, & KEEP SHOPPING Wave goodbye to plastic scrubbing brushes that’ll never leave the earth again. These untreated FSC beech wooden pot brushes last longer than 10 of your plastic brushes put together. Whenever it gets dirty, simply pop it into your dishwasher for a shower.

Made with plant-based bristles from agave cactus and dried palm leaf, they are completely compostable. They are easy to grip, sturdy, and they look great too. £3.85 andkeep.com

™andkeepshopping

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#ANYONECANBEAVEGANQUEEN BRIGHTZINE.CO

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‘Protected’ by Roxane Dewar

™roxane_dewar roxanedewar.co.uk

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