INTERVIEW WITH A VEGAN QUEEN: EVANNA LYNCH // TALKING INTERSECTIONALITY FASHION & GREENWASHING // ARE YOUR DRUGS CHOICES VEGAN?
BRIGHT VEGAN LIFESTYLE, CULTURE & COMMUNITY.
ISSUE NINE
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B R I G HT Z I N E .C O Bright Zine is a biannual magazine produced in London, UK. Copyright © Bright Zine Ltd. All Rights Reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, transmitted or distributed in any form without the prior written consent of Bright Zine Ltd. The views and opinions expressed throughout are the responsibility of the individual contributors. Vegan Queen® is a registered trade mark.
BRIGHT VEGAN LIFESTYLE, CULTURE & COMMUNITY.
ISSUE NINE
B R I G HT
IN THIS ISSUE PAGE 10
SPEND YOUR VEGAN POUNDS WISELY
PAGE 12
PLANTFACED WITH EM-J
PAGE 14
GREENWASHING
PAGE 18
SYDNEY: THE INSIDER’S GUIDE
PAGE 36
SANCTUARY SPOTLIGHT: THE RETREAT ANIMAL SANCTUARY
PAGE 40
SPOT THE BANANA
PAGE 42
Q&A WITH JOSHUA KATCHER ON FASHION ANIMALS
PAGE 45
INSTA HEROES
PAGE 46
NEVER INSULT YOUR SKIN AGAIN: GREEN BEAUTY
PAGE 52
INTERVIEW WITH A VEGAN QUEEN: EVANNA LYNCH
PAGE 62
REGENERATION
PAGE 66
VEGAN QUEEN VS. PLASTIC STRAW
PAGE 68
COOL SHIT
PAGE 70
TALKING INTERSECTIONALITY
PAGE 76
THE AIR VEGAN COLUMN
PAGE 78
INTRODUCING: THE BRIGHT CLUB
PAGE 80
ARE YOUR DRUG CHOICES ETHICAL?
PAGE 84
ZERO WASTE ROUND UP PAGE 4
B R I G HT
80
52 18
36
42 PAGE 5
B R I G HT
CO N T R IBUTO R S Editorial Laura Callan ™lauralollipop Roxane Dewar ™roxane_dewar Em-J Williams ™oh.emj Melissa Watt ™melissawatttt Tamsin Callan ™tamsinrose Alex Nicolau ™niniorganics Charlie Edwards ™charlie_now Sareta Puri ™saretapuri Evie Muir ™xeviemuir Mikeala Spiteri ™mikaelaspiteri The AIR VEGAN ™theairvegan Emma Oldham ™the_wild_mum David McQuillan ™digitalvideodave
Special thanks The Retreat Animal Sanctuary ™theretreat.animalsanctuary Joshua Katcher ™thediscerningbrute Evanna Lynch™msevylynch Joel Callan ™jpg.vid
Cover Photography: Charlie Edwards ™charlie_now
PAGE 6
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LET TER FROM THE EDITOR Here we are at last. Welcome to BRIGHT Issue Nine. Hey everyone, It’s been a while, hasn’t it? Eek. This past year has been a lot of work, from opening our lifestyle store and coffee shop The BRIGHT Store to launching an international community and East London events space with The BRIGHT Club. We never want to scrimp on our efforts in creating BRIGHT Zine, so we took the time we needed to put together the issue that you, our readers, deserve. Moving forward we are going to release BRIGHT Zine on a biannual schedule, so that we get to spend enough time with each issue and bring you only the best. That being said, we missed you and are so glad to be back with one of our favourite issues to date. We all had high hopes for 2020 and it is turning out to be pretty awful. I’m not going to reflect on the details of what’s going on as we are bombarded and overwhelmed with it daily. Instead, we have purposely kept Issue Nine pandemic-free, to give you a little bit of escapism during what is likely one of the hardest years of modern times. I loved chatting to Evanna Lynch and creating such a beautiful spread with photographer Charlie Edwards, I hope you enjoy this insight into her world as much as I did. There are some big topics to get into this issue, with a look into intersectionality, greenwashing, regeneration, drug use and more. We’ve also got a deluxe Sydney vegan guide from BRIGHT OG Tamsin so you can plan where to eat, drink and shop on future trips. We will get to travel again! Stay strong, stay safe, keep the community vibes going. Head to our website for plenty of lockdown reading material. Remember, we’re all in this together. See you next time, for an all-new BRIGHT Issue Ten.
Laura Callan Editor
™ lauralollipop . PAGE 7
B R I G HT
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PAGE 8
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B R I G HT
SPEND YOUR VEGAN POUNDS WISELY WITH BIG INDUSTRIES CASHING IN ON THE VEGAN BOOM, WE NEED TO STAY DISCERNING Written by Laura Callan™lauralollipop
Have you noticed an increase in rather
beeswax, while other brands may display
suspect
a ‘100% Vegan’ logo because the product
beauty,
hair
and
skincare
contains vegan-friendly ingredients, but
items being marketed as vegan?
are in fact tested on animals in horrific The vegan movement is only going up,
experiments.
and this means big brands - with either good or questionable ethics - will of
One
course be wanting to cash in on the trend.
who
example recently
is
Herbal
Essences,
were
given
cruelty-free
accreditation from PETA and display their With vegan options more readily available
‘cruelty free and vegan’ bunny icon, but
and more clearly labelled, it’s a lot
are owned by parent company Procter
easier to shop, but we need to continue
and Gamble, who are still ver y involved
to be discerning with our purchases. In
in animal testing with a range of their
any supermarket you can now pick up
brands.
products from major brands that are labelled ‘100% Vegan’, but there is a
PETA’s US Senior Vice President Kathy
darker secret behind that label.
Guillermo said, “Procter & Gamble has shown
a
commitment
to
ending
the
Some products have been marked as
use of animals in tests wherever and
vegan while still containing honey or
whenever possible and has worked for
PAGE 10
B R I G HT
years
non-
It’s frustrating to have huge companies
animal methods.” Procter and Gamble
to
develop
that benefit from cruel animal testing
state that they suppor t a worldwide ban
try to market their products to a growing
on cosmetic testing on animals, but note
vegan audience, so we just have to stay
the word ‘cosmetic’, they do not suppor t
vigilant. Continue to be curious, question
an all-out ban on animal testing. In their
the companies and parent companies of
animal testing policy they state: “ We at
the products you buy. Follow vegan beauty
P&G strongly believe that the majority of
bloggers who are doing the research, calling
animal tests required by these authorities
out misleading products and championing
are
true vegan, cruelty free brands.
scientifically
and
promote
unnecessar y.”
The
“majority.” Don’t be fooled, stay vigilant. It’s an exciting time to be vegan, but it’s still They’re not the only ones - last year, L’Oreal
on us to remain conscious consumers.
started labelling “vegan formula**” on some of their products. While the use of not one,
Need inspiration? Some of our favourite
but two asterisks should raise questions
beauty Instagram accounts that share
with any consumer, this is an extremely
new products and vegan beauty news are
misleading claim. If you read the fine print,
our resident beauty writer ™emj_mua, as
L’Oreal admit to paying for animal testing
well as ™veganbeautygirl, ™demicolleen
‘when regulatory authorities demand it.
and ™thebeautyvegan.
PAGE 11
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PLANTFACED With Em-J
Keeping your skincare and beauty routines vegan and free from animal testing companies can seem like a daunting task, so we’ve got pro vegan makeup artist and YouTube queen Em-J Williams here to keep you in the know with the best vegan products. In this issue, Em-J brings you this season’s top five cruelty-free, all-vegan beauty and skincare products.
™oh.emj
P ROT EC T YO ' S ELF
1
Wearing SPF should be considered all year round. Wearing an SPF under our makeup is the traditional way, however The Body Shop have a super handy face spray designed to protect you from UVA, UVB rays as well as being anti-pollution. You can simply spray on top of your makeup and top up throughout the day. Easy peasy! Skin Defence Multi-Protection Face Mist, The Body Shop £18
™thebodyshop
A SECRET SHARED In the world of faux lashes, it can be a daunting task to know which brands you can trust to be truly silk and mink free! Our Secret Beauty is a new brand bursting with utterly gorgeous lashes, not the traditional ones you would see in the shops too! All of the lashes are crafted by hand, all unique in their own way. I particularly recommend the two tone lashes, brown and black lashes blended together for a more authentic look. Lashes, Our Secret Beauty £12.99
™oursecret.beauty
2 PAGE 12
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3
G LOW B A BY G LOW It’s time to bring the glow to your makeup routine. Try using a liquid illuminator, focusing on the cheek areas and temples before you apply your foundation. The new ‘Light lustre’ by The Makeup Academy at only £5 is daylight robbery! It comes in 3 shades so great for all skin tones and also works beautifully all over the decolletage. Light Lustre, MUA Cosmetics £5
™muacosmetics
4
H ERO BA LM The balm of all balms, made entirely from specially selected plants to soothe, hydrate and accelerate skin healing. This little green magic balm is made with coenzyme Q10, hibiscus oil and betacarotene from carrots to help with skin repair. Use it on dry skin, cuts, grazes, pimples and anything else that needs speady healing! Babe Balm, BYBI £16
™bybibeauty
H A I R R A I S I N G H A I R P R O D U CTS If you haven’t already heard about this dreamy
5
brand- Maria Nila are heaven sent in a bottle and...wait for it…. entirely vegan. They are a conscious brand made in Sweden, with high performing products and great value for money. The product developers choose the most environmentally friendly ingredients as well as being Leaping Bunny and Vegan society approved. Maria Nila, products start from £6.99
™marianilastockholm
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WE NEED TO TALK ABOUT GREENWASHING Written by Melissa Wattâ„¢melissawatttt
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Greenwashing informed
is
everywhere,
consumer
choices
be misled as companies incentivise them to
making
buy products that harm the environment.
virtually
impossible. Why is it on the rise, how can you spot greenwashing and what more can
These companies are not committed to any
be done about it?
fundamental change. Take household name, H&M,
for
example.
With
their
Conscious
Greenwashing describes the business practice
Collection and Take Back Scheme, it’s easy
of making misleading marketing claims about the
to be fooled that they’re leading the change
environmental benefits of a product or service.
towards a more sustainable fashion industry.
These businesses spend more time and money
While their conscious collection is made from
claiming to be ‘green’ than they do investing in
sustainable materials, what is sustainable
sustainable business initiatives. This practice is
about promoting the overconsumption of poorly
particularly prevalent in the fuel, food, fashion,
made, temporarily trendy clothes? These same
electronics and plastics industries.
clothes will likely end up in a landfill after just seven wears. No amount of greenwashing will
The term ‘greenwashing’ was first coined
change the fact that the fast fashion model will
by environmentalist Jay Westervelt in the
never be sustainable.
1980s, but its use has grown rapidly in the last decade. As consumer demand for sustainable
What’s worse is that H&M isn’t a conscious
alternatives has risen, so too has the number
brand at all. In 2013, H&M promised that
of
study
850,000 of its workers would earn a fair living
conducted by TerraChoice found that 95% of
wage by 2018. Yet, workers in H&M supplier
consumer products claiming to be green were
factories – who produce 200 pieces of clothing
found to commit at least one of the ‘Sins of
per hour - still don’t earn a living wage. Three
Greenwashing’.
years ago, H&M launched World Recycling
greenwashing
claims.
A
2010
Week,
another
offensive,
greenwashed
So, why is this an issue? The consumer
attempt to disguise its own exploitation of
world is becoming increasingly harder to
cheap, unsafe labour. This event questionably
navigate. Greenwashed marketing is merely
clashed with Fashion Revolution Week which
performative, putting profit before the planet.
commemorates the death of over 1000 workers
This has led to widespread confusion about
who died in the Rana Plaza disaster. Sadly,
what sustainable and eco-friendly labels really
H&M are just one brand part of a much bigger
mean. Even ethically-minded consumers can
problem.
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HOW CAN YOU SPOT GREENWASHING? Check
the
packaging.
WHAT MORE CAN BE DONE TO TACKLE GREENWASHING? If
a
product
Whilst the future of greenwashing is uncertain,
overemphasises its eco-friendly impression,
its
it’s often too good to be true. Always check
enforcement. As it stands, greenwashing is
the label for these three common signs of
fairly unmonitored, meaning that companies
greenwashing: the use of ‘sustainable’, ‘eco-
can use misleading environmental claims
friendly’ or ‘biodegradable’ buzzwords; the
without
use of suggestive natural imagery; the use of
Regulatory advisory bodies need to develop
ambiguous language or overtechnical jargon.
specific guidelines and criteria to better hold
The ingredients list is far more telling than the
these businesses to account. The UK could
branding, hiding lots of nasty chemicals and
mirror a California state law which bans the
pollutants.
sales of plastics labelled as ‘compostable’
fate
largely
depends
relative
fear
on
of
regulatory
prosecution.
or ‘biodegradable’. This prevents consumers from being misled about how quickly a product
ACCREDITED SYMBOLS:
would biodegrade in a landfill. It also promotes
Genuine environmental claims are usually
the need to underpin green marketing claims
certified
with reliable scientific evidence.
but
it’s
hard
to
know
which
accreditations to trust. Ecolabel Index is a global directory that does this work for you by
As consumers, we can prompt the adoption
monitoring over 400 ecolabels. Rank a Brand
of stricter regulatory enforcement. If you
is another useful site which assesses and
spot an instance of greenwashing, contact
ranks consumer brands in sustainability and
the advertising standards agency. Make your
social responsibility. Good on You is a handy
voice heard in the fight for more transparent
fashion app for filtering companies based on
environmental
their impact on the planet, people and animals.
also use their purchasing power to drive
marketing.
Consumers
can
companies towards greener solutions. If there is greater demand for legitimate sustainable
COMPANY POLICIES:
alternatives,
being
an
company
will
environmentally
Does the company have clear ethical and
conscious
environmental policies? Simply claiming to be
Buy slowly, do your research and support
sustainable isn’t enough; companies need to
sustainable, ethical brands.
outline their supply chain and business plan. If a company is genuinely environmentally conscious, they’ll be more transparent about their actions.
PAGE 17
surely
pay
off.
B R I G HT
RECOMMENDATIONS ONLY
SYDNEY: THE INSIDER’S GUIDE Sydney: great beaches, great coffee, great food. From the city’s best tacos to award-winning pizza, we’ve got you covered. I spent three weeks eating my way through the city so you know how to dine exclusively at the city’s hottest spots. Sydney is one of the most chilled out cities, made up of lots of Williamsburgesque neighbourhoods, warehouse districts and, of course, plenty of beaches. It’s a bit of change of pace for big city people (hello, Londoners) but Sydney is a great blend of city bustle and chilled out surfer life. Plus, they’ve got great coffee and a huge vegan scene. What’s not to love?
Written by Tamsin Rose Callan™tamsinrose Photos by Tamsin Rose Callan
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COFFEE
We heard Sydney was good for cof fee, so naturally we drank as much of it as we could while we were in town. It is truly hard to find a bad cup here, there is a kind of gold-class standard for
COFFEE
cof fee shops in Australia. Wherever we travel we want to find the best cof fee and are not satisfied until we’ve located the best cof fee spots. A
firm
favourite
is
Sam ple
Cof fee
Roaster s ™sam plecof fee at Precinct 75 in St Peter s. It’s a little bit fur ther out, in an industrial area surrounded by warehouses but somehow it deliver s total cosy cof fee vibes in a bright open plan space. While
you’re
in
Precinct
75,
we
encourage you to take a walk around the
historic
specifically
building, for
it’s
creative
a
space
businesses.
You can pop into the ethical home goods store
like
SAARDÉ ™saardehome,
that we may have spent way too long in, spend an af ternoon axe throwing at Maniax ™maniax.au, or book your self a whisky tasting at OCD (Otter Cr af t Distilling) ™ottercraftdistilling. If you are a fellow caffeine fiend and want a deep dive into Sydney’s coffee scene check out our Sydney coffee guide on our
website:
brightzine.co/news/sydney-
coffee. Not to leave you hanging, some of our top picks are The Grounds ™ thegrounds - both of their locations are stunning in their own way, but Alexandria is really something. We also love Bourke Street Bakery ™ bourkestreetbakery who have locations in both Marrickville and Newtown. A
final
top
fave
is
Coffee
Alchemy
™ coffeealchemy, who you can visit at either their roastery in Marrickville or at their new city spot Gumption ™ gumption_syd.
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FOOD TOP PIC K:
BODHI
This spot came with the most recommendations from local tastemakers, so it was top of our list to try. Bodhi serves up pan-Asian cuisine and specialises in Yum Cha, a Chinese tradition of brunch with tea and several small courses also known as dim sum. Indoor and outdoor seating make this a perfect brunch setting all year round, with a huge cocktail menu and dumplings you’ll be dreaming about for weeks. Our favourite dishes were the rice paper sesame seed prawn pillows and the sweet steamed hot dogs - just trust us. For dessert, the passionfruit donuts and the mango pancakes are game-changing. Seriously, tell your friends, tell your mum, tell anyone who ever says they’re going to Sydney that this is the place to eat. 2/4 College St, Sydney NSW 2000
™bodhirestaurantbar
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SHIFT EATERY Shift Eatery is the home of the “The Best Vegan Bacon and Egg Bagel in the world” which sells out every day a mere hour after they open. It took us a couple of tries to finally get our hands on this beast, and it lives up to expectations. If you don’t fancy an early morning, have a lie in, go there for lunch and grab a “Join The Club” or “Breaky Bun” sandwich for the best of both worlds. And make sure you grab a chocolate bar for later. Shop 4/241 Commonwealth St, Surry Hills NSW 2010
™shifteatery
SWEETS:
GRUMPY DONUTS These doughnuts are incredible. True sweet bready goodness, and light enough that you could try a couple of flavours in one sitting. They aren’t a fully vegan establishment, but they have a full vegan doughnut range made fresh each day with the same flavours as their non-vegan doughnuts. Supporting businesses that are making space to offer good vegan options is important to us too. Plus, the coffee they serve here is great. To put it simply, it’s good spot to sit and have a coffee and a banging doughnut, (or three). 72 Pyrmont Bridge Rd, Camperdown NSW 2050
™grumpydonutsofficial
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NAKED BAKERY Put this magazine down and go check out Naked Bakery’s Instagram, it will tell you everything you need to know. The almond croissants, the gooey brownies, the beautiful cakes, the melted chocolate poured over trays of pain au chocolat. This woman-owned vegan organic bakery is an absolute mustvisit. It’s a little further out in Baulkham Hills but trust us, take the trip. 20B Old Northern Rd, Baulkham Hills NSW 2153
™nakedbakery
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GOLDEN LOTUS This vegan Vietnamese spot is a local favourite with an extensive menu. This is a great place to share a range of fresh veg and mock meat dishes, and don’t miss our winner, the fried ‘fish’ in a clay pot. It’s also BYOB so it’s a good spot to have some drinks before you head for some great cocktails at Earl’s Juke Joint
™ earlsjukejoint down the street. 341 King St, Newtown NSW 2042
™goldenlotusvegan
BAD HOMBRES The huge menu in this Mexican-inspired eatery pleases absolutely everyone, including all my gluten-free friends. You know a place is really good when it’s always busy, but more so when a lot of their regulars are non-vegans. On our ‘must order’ list are The Cauliflower with seaweed salt, served with corn tortillas and cashew cream, the Adobo Potato Tacos and the Charred Corn with Chipotle Mayo. If you have space for dessert, (you should absolutely save space for dessert) get the Creme Brûlée. There’s a reason people call the Bad Hombres tacos the best in the city, and we can’t wait to go back. 72 40 Reservoir St, Surry Hills NSW 2010
™bad.hombres.dining
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TOP PICK:
GIGI PIZZERIA tl;dr: you will want to eat here every day of your trip to Sydney. An
adorable
rustic
Italian
restaurant
in
Newtown, Gigi Pizzeria is darkly lit, romantic, and sometimes has a queue outside so tr y to get there early. Gigi is one of Sydney’s only pizzerias with a membership to the “True Neapolitan Pizza Association”, ensuring your their pizzas are hand-stretched and woodfired Napoli style. Star t with the almond coated potato croquettes, have your pick of pizza or the incredible ricotta-filled calzone con Spinaci as your main, and make sure you order the cannoli for desser t. Don’t worr y about vanilla or chocolate, they’re both good. In fact, get both. 379 King St, Newtown NSW 2042
™gigipizzeria
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You want ice cream? Gelato Blue is an all-
SWEETS:
GELATO BLUE
vegan gelato house in Newtown. Are you noticing a theme? Yes, most of the vegan places are in Newtown, so maybe book an AirBnB there. Tr y the Salted Belgian Chocolate or the Peanut Butter. 318 King St, Newtown NSW 2042
™ gelatoblue
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HONOU RABLE M ENT IO NS
OH MY DAYS Brunch enthusiasts: Oh My Days is your place. Spend a Sunday tucked away in their garden with a pour over coffee and deluxe pastry. Their all day breakfast and lunch menu is primarily Mexican fusion; expect quesadillas, burritos, they even have a full English with a Mexicana twist. If you’re lucky you can try their coffee glazed, hazelnut praline and almond custard donut... 99 Glebe Point Rd, Glebe NSW 2037
™ohmydaysglebe
PEPPE’S
LITTLE TURTLE
An all-vegan gnocchi restaurant in Bondi that sells
A woman-owned all-vegan Thai restaurant with a
natural wines by the glass. BRB, we’re moving to
great interior. Try the Hor Mok (Thai fish curry) or
Bondi.
their instagram-worthy pineapple fried rice.
261 Bondi Rd, Bondi NSW 2026
™peppes.syd
10 Stanmore Rd, Enmore NSW 2042
™littleturtlerestaurantv
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S H O P P I N G:
THE CRUELTY FREE SHOP Need a new Matt and Nat bag? Want to stock up on Vego Bars? Or maybe you want to scope out the different plant-based foods on offer this side of the world. In Glebe, The Cruelty Free Store is a mini vegan supermarket with a big selection of food, as well as health and beauty products, bags, accessories and clothing. 83 Glebe Point Rd, Glebe NSW 2037
™thecrueltyfreeshop
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S HOPPING:
SANS BEAST While you’re in Australia you have to check out SANS BEAST for truly gorgeous designer bags without the beast. They don’t have their own bricks and mor tar store but you can see some of their collection firsthand in David Jones on Elizabeth Street, or check out their website and put in an order. We should warn you, you will want ever ything. Our editor Laura doubles up her Noir Alligator laptop case as a clutch bag and it looks stunning and is standing the test of time too. David Jones, 86-108 Castlereagh St, NSW 2000 sansbeast.com
™sans.beast
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SYDNEY D E T A I L S
>
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SANCTUARY SPOTLIGHT
THE RETREAT HOME TO OVER A THOUSAND ANIMALS, THE RETREAT IS A HAVEN FOR ANIMALS SAVED FROM DIRE SITUATIONS
Written by Laura Callan™lauralollipop
We all love to see a video of animals
TELL US ABOUT THE RETREAT! WHEN DID YOU START AND WHY?
being liberated by activists, saved by farmers
who
have
finally
recognised
The Retreat started about thirty years ago.
their speciesism, or jumping out of a
It was by total chance with no plan to start
slaughterhouse-bound truck and saving
a rescue. Pretty much all my life I brought
their own lives. But what happens to
home strays and injured creatures. I helped
these animals then? Many
animals
like
out on horse yards and when a poor old these
end
up
horse was about to be shot, I said I’d have
at
her - at only 14 years old. Slowly the different
sanctuaries and rescue centres to live out
types of animals I had grew to include all
the rest of their lives peacefully and with compassion
from
their
Sanctuaries
are
usually
human
equines, domestic ones, farm animals etc.
carers.
non-profit
I have always believed in justice and always
or
fought for the underdog. I was the type of
charities and rely on support from the
child who picked up snails on the path so
community and volunteers. It’s not cheap or
they wouldn’t get crushed, saved beetles
easy to run an animal sanctuary. It is hard
who’d fallen into water, and even picked
work and from vet bills to feed to bedding, it
flies out of spiderwebs. Now, our sanctuary
is a huge financial undertaking.
is filled with creatures, from tiny orphaned mice to massive cattle, but they all have the
For Issue Nine, we wanted to shine a spotlight
same number one goal: survival, just like us.
on a rescue that is close to our hearts; The Retreat Animal Sanctuary in Kent, UK. We
HOW MANY ANIMALS LIVE AT THE RETREAT NOW?
talked to founder Billy Thompson about The Retreat’s mission, the reality of running a sanctuary and what you can do to support
With over 400 birds, 60 horses and donkeys,
animals that live in them.
200 pigs, 60 sheep and goats, 50 dogs
PAGE 36
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and cats, 150 injured wildlife, 15 cattle and
across the world, and others brought to us
70 turtles, our sanctuary is home to over
via the police, local and district councils.
1000 animals right now. We keep anywhere
We can only cover the local area of Kent,
between 1000 and 2000 needy souls at any
and we always attend all emergencies.
one time. This can include fish, terrapins,
The winter can double our work, especially
injured British wildlife, permanently disabled
during long wet, freezing periods. Our centre
wildlife, equines, farm animals including
is also open 24 hours for wildlife A&E as a
sheep, goats, cattle, pigs, turkeys, geese,
drop off for any poorly wildlife that’s been
ducks and chickens. We also have pigeons,
injured or found, saving our team from too
peafowl and other birds, as well as dogs,
many rescue call outs.
cats and small fluffies.
WHAT DOES A DAY RUNNING A SANCTUARY LOOK LIKE?
WHERE DO THESE ANIMALS COME FROM?
An average day starts with a full walk around
Our rescues come from everywhere, from
of the whole sanctuary - this includes all
dumped and dying tiny foals found on
the
waste land, to wildlife caught in road traffic
and lakes, checking whether our rescued
accidents. Our call outs range from RTA
residents are all up for breakfast and looking
foxes, badgers, deer, mowing accidents
well. Breakfast and medical needs are done
involving hedgehogs, trapped wildlife or
by the residents’ main carers. Next, the
down farm animals,
and abandoned dogs,
residents’ main carers check the hospital
cats and horses. We also save farm animals
areas and check who needs to see our vets or
left to starve or found straying into roads.
if the vet should attend any large resident. A
We have abandoned street animals from
quick touch base with the team (and a coffee
PAGE 37
enclosures,
barns,
stables,
aviaries
B R I G HT
and doughnut), then we dish out jobs to our
Jill a 12 day-old calf orphaned and set to
incredible team of volunteers, who turn up
market. £10 was the price for people to make
everyday - whatever the weather. By 8:30am
mittens out of her patterned coat.
it’s time to check the answering machine,
would have ended that day and she’d have
social media messages and emails. We then
been put in the freezer. She lived a ling life
prioritise the rescue messages and send our
and was truly one of the family. My nephews
team out.
called her Aunty Jill.
Next, we look at the cafe menu, check the
WHAT DO YOU WANT PEOPLE TO KNOW ABOUT SANCTUARY LIFE?
stock, and choose the daily specials. We do the shopping for the cafe and then our
Sanctuary life is not easy. There’s so much
wonderful chef Neil starts cooking. Our day
heartbreak and the constant worry about
passes by with a string of visitors dropping
funding is nerve-wracking. Rescues are
off donations of newspaper, bedding, food
bittersweet due to the animals left behind.
and injured needy souls with nowhere else to go. The team carries out feeding, exercise,
HOW CAN WE SUPPORT THE RETREAT AND THE ANIMALS HERE?
cleaning out, new bedding, etc. whilst also making room for the new arrivals. Most days it’s like bed-juggling in a major city hospital.
To help us you can conate what you can,
The real miracle is having enough funds and
come and help out or become a volunteer.
a team with a massive heart to get through
You can collect newspaper bedding or other
the day. Knowing that all the residents and
bits we need here. You could organise a
new intakes are fed, medicated and safe at
fundraiser, spread the word about us and
the end of the day is where our dedication
follow us on social media!
comes from. Our day can go into the early hours - pulling starving horses out of dykes
Visit The Retreat’s website for opening
or pursuing a fox with a broken leg, you just
times, volunteer days and information on
never know.
how you can help support the animals. retreatanimalrescue.org.uk
HOW MUCH DOES IT COST TO RUN A SANCTUARY?
™theretreat.animalsanctuary
Our centre costs £500 per day without veterinary costs.
WHAT ARE SOME OF THE MOST AMAZING RESCUES YOU’VE HAD? Amazing
rescues
Her life
include
animals
you
thought would never make it - like Todd, a tiny foal found dumped and dying. Maggots eating him, more lice than I’ve ever seen in any animal. Worm burden through the roof. Such a sweet baby within 1 hour he was drinking from the bottle. Magic, a tiny piglet found in a coma by the side of the A229, was so small that she fitted in my hand. Six days at the vet and she pulled through.
PAGE 39
SPOT THE BANANA
#SPOTTHEBANANA
B R I G HT
FIVE MINUTES WITH
JOSHUA KATCHER WE SPEAK TO FASHION DESIGNER, EDUCATOR, SPEAKER AND AUTHOR OF ‘FASHION ANIMALS’, THE BEAUTIFUL NEW BOOK EXPLORING THE HISTORY OF ANIMAL EXPLOITATION IN THE FASHION INDUSTRY.
WHAT IS YOUR BACKGROUND WITH FASHION?
WHAT LED YOU TO WRITE ‘FASHION ANIMALS’?
I didn’t study fashion design in school and I
Again, there was a void. Animal ethics haven’t
didn’t realise how powerful fashion was until
been taken seriously in the academy until very
i started writing about it in 2008 with my blog
recently, and the same can be said for fashion.
The Discerning Brute. In fact, i considered
They are popular themes, but sort of scoffed
myself quite anti-fashion (or at least what I
at by intellectuals. So I was not too shocked
perceived fashion to be: a trivial celebration
when I realised that no one had written a
of surface and vanity). So I was writing about
book examining the intersection of these two
it from more of a “things-I-wish-were-vegan”
popular themes. I had been lecturing on this
perspective. There was a lack of high-quality
topic for years and compiled so many stories
menswear that was vegan, sustainable and
and so much research, I just felt compelled
fairly-made. At the time, I think TDB was
to put them into a book as an overview of the
the only men’s vegan lifestyle website out
issue and a starting point for further research.
there. Long story short, I soon realised how
I really do hope it is used as a catalyst.
impactful and influential fashion actually is. Fashion should be taken very seriously — it’s a global industrial complex affecting billions and ecosystems everywhere. But on top of
WHAT CAN YOU TELL US ABOUT IT?
that, it is a system of symbols, status and
All I will say is that there were many, many
identity that should not be underestimated.
images and stories that ended up in the
So I began designing not just to fill a void
book that made my jaw drop when I found
I saw in the market, but as an activist
them. Everything from Vogue having an
wanting to use the leverage of fashion’s
animal advocacy column from 1900-1910
influence to create aspiration, desire and
to seeing ads for vegan fashion from the
articulation around values of compassion
late 1800s to understanding the number of
and sustainability.
animals who have been driven to extinction
of animals, hundreds of millions of workers
PAGE 42
B R I G HT
or
near-extinction
because
of
WHERE CAN WE GET THE BOOK?
fashion’s
insatiable appetite for animals’ bodies. You
You can get it from my BraveGentleMan.com
have to read this book. I feel like it needs to
webstore, directly from VeganPublishers or
become documentary as well.
on Amazon. There are also a handful of small stores carrying it in New York and Philadelphia. People in the UK can get a signed copy from
WHERE DO YOU HOPE TO SEE THE BOOK GO?
brightzine.co and Londoners can pick one up
As a coffee table book, it was designed
Keep up to date with Joshua on his website
to appeal to creative professionals and
thediscerningbrute.com, and check out
visually-oriented people. I hope it gets
his ethical sustainable clothing company
at The BRIGHT Store.
picked up more and more by mainstream
Brave GentleMan at bravegentleman.com
bookstores and I hope that instructors use
™thediscerningbrute ™bravegentleman
it as a textbook.
PAGE 43
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B R I G HT
INSTA HEROES
PAGE 45
B R I G HT
ALEX NICOLAU, CO-FOUNDER & CREATOR OF NINI ORGANICS GIVES US THE LOWDOWN ON REAL GREEN BEAUTY & SKINCARE Hey lovers, my name is Alex, and I co-founded
Beauty which is home to an array of green beauty
and created the organic skin food line NINI
products from health and wellbeing to makeup.
Organics with my sister Nicole back in 2015.
You can find us in Wood Green, North London.
My journey started way back in 2006 when I was
I created a super easy-to-remember tool - INSULT -
one of the unlucky few who developed an extreme
that will help stop you from ever purchasing another
spout of acne all over my face. After trying
insulting product again. Skincare can be confusing
everything I could and nothing working for me,
and conflicting with so many brands, experts,
I was then put on Roaccutane, which can have
writers and influencers all telling you different
serious and dangerous side effects.
things, and with giant brands pushing ‘green’ and ‘natural’ products to meet consumer demand, we
Let’s fast forward to now where I created my skin
need to look a little deeper into their ingredients.
food line of natural and organic products that help to feed and nourish the skin, bringing more clarity
Here in the green beauty world - which is what I like to
and evenness to our complexions by only using
call ‘the alternative universe to skincare’ - we are here
the best herbal ingredients. Since launching NINI
to help, guide and educate our customers to make
Organics in 2017, I opened NINI’s House of Green
better choices for their skin and for the environment.
PAGE 46
B R I G HT
NEVER I
I is for ingredients. With everything that I buy, the first thing I look at is the ingredients list. I have a strict policy with the brands that I stock in store that they have to follow my all organic and natural guidelines. I don’t have time for chemical waste or products predominately made up of synthetically-produced ingredients. Here are my top 11 ingredients to avoid at all costs: Propolyne Glycol, Parabens, EDTA, SLS, Parfum, PEGS, Paraffinum Liquidum (mineral oil), Dimethicone, Methylisothiazolinone, Methylchloroisothiazolinone and Phthlatates.
N
N is for nature. As a rule, I never reach for promise products like Retinols (I’m all about the Plantinols), Anti-ageing, or vitamin C products. I find the messaging behind these kind of products to be quite bullying and negative. We should all embrace the aging process, and if you want to support your skin then do so by keeping it hydrated and dewy through incredible natural ingredients like Sea buckthorn oil, Hyaluronic acid, Phtyo pepetides, Squalane, Jojoba oil, and many more.
S
S is for sustainability. This one is all about the materials that the product is housed in. I always reach for glass being the main bulk of the product because glass is more easily recyclable and it’s better for preserving the integrity of the ingredients as well. Plastic is not the devil, its just that recycling has become so difficult that if you can get what you’re looking for in solid form (packaging-free), or in glass, then that’s always going to be the best option.
U
U is for unnecessary bulking agents. Ingredients are always listed in descending order, meaning the first ingredients is the main ingredient. Here are a few of my top bulking agents to watch out for Aqua (water), Paraffinum liqidum (mineral oil), Dimethicone, and refined oils - such as sunflower oil or coconut oil. These cheap ingredients do little to nothing for the skin. Sunflower and coconut oil can be good, but only when used in certain ways and when they come from organic sources.
L T
L is for love. Who made your products, and why? Was it a small company owned by people who care about your skin and the environment, or a mass-produced company that supports cheap labour, plastic consumption, and puts no love or thought into the products? Let’s keep the independent companies alive and help them thrive, rather than the big corporations who are just in it for the profit. T is for total. How much is the product, and is it worth your hard-earned cash? It is understandable that people tend to reach for cheaper products, but this can lead to frustration and waste. I always refer to the organic beauty world as skin insurance. The formulas are always made more concentrated, so they last longer and are more effective, meaning you get way more for your buck.
YOUR SKIN AGAIN PAGE 47
B R I G HT
So, that’s my little handy guide to help you
Now you know how to shop wisely and
make better choices when shopping for your
insult-free, I want to share with you my ninestep skincare routine.
beauty products. Always search for the niche
Now, that’s not to say that you do each step
shop as local as possible, or come to the
brands that can’t be found ever ywhere and House of Green Beauty and do a sit down
ever y day, but it’s my guide to which products
consultation with me called ‘The Green
you should own. This way, you will always
Switch,’ where I can help switch you over
finish and replace your products instead of
to a greener and healthier skincare routine.
hoarding skincare. One thing that people
need to keep in mind is that products do have
Green kisses,
a shelf life, and if you have 30 serums you’ll
Alex
never finish them all at complete freshness. Plus, our skin is ver y clever and it’s not a
Visit NINI’s House Of Green Beauty at:
fan of over layering, which confuses the skin
Blue House Yard, 5 River Park Rd, Wood
and can make it react in a negative way. So
Green, London N22 7TB
rather than having nine steps, I have my nine skincare essentials for glowing healthy
Check out NINI Organics skincare range
and balanced skin.
niniorganics.com ™niniorganics
A le x ’s N in e E s s e nt
ia ls
1 . O il C le a n s er a n s er 2 . Det oxif y ing C le 3 . E x f ol iat or 4. Mask 5 . M ist 6 . H A S er u m w h at 7 . O il (de p e n d ing on y our s k in n e ed s ) lo ck in 8 . B e a ut y B a lm t o m oi st ure 9 . SP F PAGE 48
B R I G HT
PAGE 49
268 HACKNEY RD, LONDON,
E2 7SJ
E T H IC A L L I F E ST Y L E STO R E & COFFEE SHOP Come to our home in the heart of East London - The BRIGHT Store. Browse beautiful products from independent ethical vegan businesses hand selected by the BRIGHT team, as well as the full BRIGHT range. While you’re here you can grab a hand-crafted coffee made with beans from The ™thebrightstoreldn
Fields Beneath alongside some incredible vegan treats (warm cheese toastie croissant anyone?) And of course, no visit to The BRIGHT Store is
Photos by Charlie Edwards ™charlie_now
complete without a vegan queen mirror selfie.
B R I G HT
INTERVIEW WITH A VEGAN QUEEN
EVANNA LYNCH Interview by Laura Callan™lauralollipop Photos by Charlie Edwards ™charlienow
PAGE 52
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Actor, activist, entrepreneur, podcast host, Vegan Queen. Known worldwide for her role as Luna Lovegood in the Harry Potter film empire, Evanna Lynch has spent recent years balancing acting with hosting The Chickpeeps Podcast, running a vegan beauty company and being a vocal advocate for animals. Evanna met us at The BRIGHT Store to chat all things veganism, activism, podcasting and more.
WHAT HAVE YOU BEEN UP TO RECENTLY?
WHAT’S YOUR VEGAN ORIGIN STORY?
I did Dancing with the Stars in the US in 2018 and
I went vegetarian when I was a kid because
remembered how much I love live performance
I was disgusted by the idea of meat, in a
so when I came back to London I decided to
visceral way. I just stopped seeing meat as
focus on stage and did two plays last year. I then
food. I went vegan about 5 or 6 years ago
took some time off to work on season two of The
when I read Johnathan Safron Foer’s Eating
ChickPeeps podcast. We had so much fun doing
Animals. I was living in LA and surrounded
season one but logistically it was a bit of a mess
by vegans who made it seem normal and
as we were so inexperienced at podcasting. We
possible, even joyful. At the time my family
restructured it, hired a few people and created a
were really confused by it. I get really
really great, strong and functional season two!
obsessive about things and I think they
In the first season we covered a lot of the
thought this was my new ‘thing’. My mum was
basics of veganism, questions a newbie vegan
very wary and was worried it was connected
would have, and this season we dive into more
to me having an eating disorder when I was
niche, complicated topics, things that vegans
younger, thinking we were going back there.
debate over. We’re having a real range of
She saw it as a very restrictive lifestyle.
guests on this season from chefs to actors,
My family definitely had this perception of
comedians to entrepreneurs so I’m excited to
veganism as being ‘extreme’.
hear all their personal stories.
HOW WOULD YOU LIKE TO SEE THE VEGAN MOVEMENT AND COMMUNITY DEVELOP AND GROW?
HOW HAVE YOUR FAMILY’S ATTITUDES CHANGED?
I’d love to see more storytellers in the vegan
I became vegan I cooked her a full meal and
movement. People who combine their passion
she was like, “when did you start cooking?”
for activism with their performance related
as I simply didn’t cook before I went vegan.
skills. Movies like Okja, that speak to people in
I had a difficult relationship with food and I
a soulful way. Or like Babe or Charlotte’s Web,
generally tried to not think about it. By the
those movies reached my heart as a child. We
end of the trip told me she was really proud
have so much information and knowledge out
of me for changing my relationship to food
there in favour of veganism and yet people are
as I was now focusing on ethics as opposed
still not moved to change. I feel we need more
to
heart-centred activism, more storytellers.
based approach really opened her mind to
The first time my mum came to visit me after
PAGE 54
nutrition
and
calories.
This
belief-
B R I G HT
veganism. My family are mostly all vegetarian
Healthy, so as long as they are still open to
and working toward veganism. My dad is 72
learning about it and adapting recipes then
and he said to me recently that he’s repelled
I’m proud of them. They’re going in the right
by the idea of meat, which is a huge shift - he
direction. My little brother recently read
used to eat everything. They appreciate that
Sapiens and immediately became vegetarian
vegan alternatives can be just as delicious as
for ethical reasons and is on his way to
eggs and dairy milk but they still views those
veganism. I didn’t even have to convince him,
products as very exotic and that foregoing
he found the book himself and it clicked for
eggs at breakfast is a form of martrydom.
him. You can’t make people vegan; you can
I wish they would delve a bit deeper into the
support and inspire them but they have to
ethical reasons for veganism, but my mum
make the decision for themselves.
is a big fan of the Happy Pear and Wicked
YOU CAN’T MAKE PEOPLE VEGAN; YOU CAN SUPPORT AND INSPIRE THEM BUT THEY H AV E T O M A K E THE DECISION FOR THEMSELVES
B R I G HT
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WHAT TIPPED YOU OVER TO BECOMING AN ACTIVIST? One aspect of being in the spotlight means that there are going to be dozens of charities reaching out to you asking you to lend your voice to campaigns and speak up for many worthy causes. When I was younger I said yes to every charity request but I often just felt like a talking doll. I found that when animal rights charities contacted me to share their message I was speaking the words from my heart, I wasn’t just a mouthpiece. Animal rights was the cause that broke my heart. So I started doing some activism and the more I spoke about it the more people asked me why I wasn’t vegan. Those questions led to me picking up Eating Animals and that compelled me to become vegan. The more I read, the more I realised this is the most horrible, unjust thing happening in the world right now and so through finding out about veganism I developed a real passion for speaking out about it.
WHAT LED YOU TO START A PODCAST? I’ve always loved podcasts. I feel a lot of nostalgia because I’ve been listening to them for over a decade! I started with Mugglecast and Pottercast when I was younger because I was such a Harry Potter geek and a lonely teenager and the hosts of those podcasts felt like my friends! Podcasts really do keep you company in the quiet of your own mind and can connect you to the sense of community surrounding your passions. This was pre-social media and we didn’t have an outlet for niche, nerdy passions. And I noticed veganism was one of my interests that lacked a sense of community around it, and as soon as I started listening to vegan podcasts I felt more normal and more supported in my beliefs and my challenges. That helped me adapt
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WHO ARE SOME INSPIRING PEOPLE YOU’VE MET THROUGH YOUR VEGAN ACTIVISM WORK? The first is kind of my original inspiration, my ‘vegan fairy godmother’, Victoria Moran who is one of the most kind, lovely and spiritual people you will ever meet. She has a podcast to life as a new vegan. I also love that you can
and runs the Main Street Vegan Academy
just have podcasts on in the background, you
training people to be vegan lifestyle coaches.
don’t have to sit and listen studiously to them.
I saw her speak at VegFest a few years ago
So that’s why we started ChickPeeps, I wanted
about ‘attractivism’: activism where you’re
to provide company and light-heartedness and
living your most radiant best life and that way
a sense of community to other lonely vegans
you attract people to you and your cause.
on their commute home from work! I found that
That was profound to me and how I try to do
there was a lot of disagreement in the vegan
my activism. Trying to inspire and encourage
community which didn’t appeal to me. I want
rather than guilt and shame people.
a community of friends just chatting, having a
The other person I would mention who works
laugh and talking about vegan life. I’m lucky I
very differently from Victoria is Ingrid Newkirk,
have so many vegan friends now, and we catch
the founder of PETA who can be a controversial
up about vegan news and new vegan items,
and polarising figure. She has so much
and when I hang out with people it feels like
passion and conviction and doesn’t give a shit
this is the norm. Through the podcast I wanted
what anyone thinks about her. Most people
to create that space and normality for others -
are conscious of their image as much as their
people that want to be vegan but don’t know
message, but not Ingrid. She is 100% doing it
how to start, or for somewhere to ask questions
for animals. I know PETA has made mistakes
and feel that they are part of a community.
with their PR tactics in the past but I don’t think I’ve encountered someone so purely devoted to animals and so single-mindedly obsessed with ending animal oppression as Ingrid, and that’s the core of PETA’s mission and the motive for their bold tactics. She struck me as such a kind, sensitive person, someone who feels the pain of animals very deeply and that compels her to work ceaselessly for animal liberation and to be quite radical in her approach.
PAGE 59
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LET’S TALK ABOUT THE KINDER BEAUTY BOX! Yes, let’s! I run it with my friend and business partner, Daniella Monet, an actor and activist, and our other co-founder/president, Andrew. We started talking about how nobody wants animal testing to happen on products they’re paying for, and yet actually going cruelty-
DO YOU FEEL THAT YOU HAVE TO WORK DIFFERENTLY TO MEN AROUND YOU?
free was considerably harder than endorsing the idea. We figured that having a monthly subscription box of beauty products is a
I don’t know that I feel I have to work differently
great way to introduce people to a range of
to men so much as I have to remind myself to
vegan and cruelty-free brands, emphasise the
back myself the way men are more inclined to
reasons why we should shop cruelty-free, and
do. As women we question ourselves so much
help them to gradually transition to all vegan
and spend a lot of time apologising. We need
and cruelty-free makeup. This is what I mean
to just go for things more, and be like, “I got
by attractivism!
this” rather than all the second guessing and self-doubt. I’ve noticed it on the podcast. For every
HOW ARE YOU ENJOYING RUNNING A BUSINESS?
episode I’ll be so thorough, I’ll have all these notes, I’ll spend hours researching and reading about the guest, and sometimes
I like it! However, it doesn’t come naturally
Robbie will turn up like “Alright, what are we
to me. I think the arts are so much about
doing today?” And I’m like, “did you not read
authenticity, expressing yourself however you
my five page episode plan?!” Eventually I
feel, not being dictated to by others. As an
forced him to read it in advance as we have to
actor it’s drilled into you ‘what other people
be in sync, but it’s also showed me that I could
think of you is not our business’ because if you
just have more faith in myself, that I don’t
tried to people please or cared too much about
need to work so hard to prove my worth. A
people’s judgments you wouldn’t last a day! A
lot of men have this confidence, this swagger,
huge part of sticking at it is simply developing
this “yeah I know what I’m doing”, even when
a thick skin. And business is the opposite!
they don’t. You can sit back and resent them
For example, we noticed after a few months
for it or you can borrow a bit of that bravado.
of running the business that customers were
That’s what I’m trying to do now anyway. I’ll
demanding more ‘clean’ beauty products. I
probably always like to over-prepare but I am
resisted that at first because I worried we would
betting on myself more and apologising less.
limit ourselves that way and I said let’s just do our thing. But Andrew taught me that you have to work hard to please customers, to earn their loyalty, and that people-pleasing is our job! It’s a whole different mindset. So we are now moving to being a vegan AND clean beauty box. I’m learning a lot from our customers and how to strike the balance between honouring my vision and building a successful brand.
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WHAT ARE YOUR THOUGHTS ON THE ONSLAUGHT OF EX VEGANS WE’VE HAD? I
mean,
I
environmental
roll
my or
when
another
plant-based
eyes
vegan
announces they’re not vegan now. Shocker! I don’t really follow too many of them because my greatest motive is the animals. But it’s disappointing
when
someone’s
personal
decision to denounce veganism causes them to come out and say that veganism on the whole is dangerous. It’s unfair and disrespectful to all the people who are thriving on a vegan diet. That said, I think it’s up to each individual to explore and decide why they are vegan. Maybe it’s good that key figures in the movement are disappointing their audience because it’s more empowering to find the motives and inspiration within yourself. I really disagree with the cultish mentality of taking on something as important and personal as veganism because some influencer said so. That is dangerous. Be vegan for you! Wish those ex-vegans well. It’s a pity they felt unsupported. Use their spreading of misinformation about veganism as an opportunity to strengthen your commitment to veganism and to advocate more effectively, joyfully and responsibly for it.
WHAT’S NEXT FOR YOU?
Check out and subscribe to Evanna’s monthly
We just wrapped season two of The ChickPeeps
vegan beauty box at kinderbeauty.com
so for the summer I’m keeping my head down
You can listen to listen to The ChickPeeps
writing a book. I’ve been asking the universe for
Podcast Series 1 and 2 on all regular podcast platforms.
some time at home to write and lockdown really
™ msevylynch ™ kinderbeautybox ™ chickpeepspod
came through with that! As for the podcast, our next season will start in September, but in the meantime we are also running a summer vegan book club via our ChickPeeps Patreon in an attempt to discuss some topics covered on the season in more depth with listeners.
PAGE 61
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FORGET SUSTAINABILITY Written by Sareta Puri™saretapuri
Sustainability is the current buzzword. Say
Projects from across the world are able to apply
you’re living sustainably or low impact and
and word is spread through various funding
you get instant eco kudos.
websites, organisations and individuals that already work with projects on the ground and
But what does it actually mean? It can broadly
via social media. This year over 250 projects
be defined as maintaining or sustaining a
applied and a team of judges created a shortlist
certain level of activity. In environmental
of 50 then a final list of 11 projects from nine
terms this means being sparing with resources
countries. There are four categories supporting
to reduce damage such as not using single-
projects from those at inception stage to those
use plastic products or boycotting palm oil.
campaigning or lobbying to influence policy -
These are often the most environmentally or
with prizes ranging from £10,000 to £25,000.
least toxic options but that doesn’t mean that
No funding is giving to any project that is
they will be enough to stop the devastation
involved in direct slaughter or ill treatment of
to our oceans, lands and habitats. To truly
animals. These can be life-changing sums for
combat the effects of climate change we
many of these projects, plus the opportunity to
need sustainability 2.0 and that is where
come together over four days gives them the
regeneration comes in. Regenerating goes
opportunity to network, share skills and spread
beyond sustaining by enabling eco and social
the word of what they’re doing.
systems to repair and grow. Projects that are truly regenerative have a In 2019 we attended the Lush Spring Prize
holistic approach, they build capacity across
to find out more about incredible global
the
projects that work on environmental and social
resources and communities. They nurture the
regeneration. The prize is jointly run by Ethical
communities that they are based in, often by
Consumer and Lush Cosmetics and aims to
focussing on their traditional methods that
support communities and cultures through
have been lost over years. Many of the issues
resource provision, skills development and
that the planet is facing are direct effects of
prize funds totalling £200,000.
colonialism, white power and land grabbing
PAGE 62
community
and
they
restore
natural
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that has been going on for centuries. From oil
experiences shared at the Spring Prize were
drilling in the Amazon that affects indigenous
truly moving and inspiring.
tribes and destroys habitats to families being displaced in inner London, there is a system
We heard from Sfruttzero, a south Italian
of social and, let’s face it, ethnic cleansing
collective
happening across the world. What is needed
economy to help support African migrants
is a movement that empowers and supports
through tomato growing and sauce production.
indigenous communities and the diaspora to
The initiative provides workers with an hourly
take control of their narratives and culture. As
wage for a 5-6 hour day, allowing them to work
one delegate at the Spring Prize put it “we need
in the cooler parts of the day, rather than the
to unlearn the green revolution and rejuvenate
10-15 hours of back-breaking work paid by the
the pre-colonial practices and systems.�
kilo that exploited pickers are doing across the
that
has
created
a
solidarity
globe to supply the fruit and veg that ends on A common example of regeneration is via
our plate.
permaculture: a more holistic approach to agriculture
self-
Another example is Guba who have been
sustaining and revitalise natural ecosystems.
where
developments
are
running a permaculture training farm for 10
Rooted in permaculture is an understanding of
years in Eswatini (formerly Swaziland) which
the planet we live on and an ability to nurture
enables trainees to learn skills that they can
the land like it has nurtured us, whilst also
practice at home and eventually become self-
respecting all people on it.
sufficient, not only to support themselves but also to create an income. At Guba they look
From YICE Uganda, who train refugees in
beyond farming skills and also focus on wider
permaculture skills to ZIMSOFF in Zimbabwe,
issues such as parenting skills, domestic
who support smallholder farms to practice
violence and shelter. This is a perfect example
sustainable and viable ecological agriculture
of permaculture projects being more holistic
in a drought-afflicted region, the stories and
than just farming initiatives.
WE NEED TO TALK REGENERATION PAGE 63
B R I G HT
But not all regeneration projects relate to
Regeneration isn’t always seen as a positive,
farming and growing.
par ticularly in urban regeneration, where the term is banded about to cover up for
In Ecuador, Alianza Ceibo is a collective of
developments that are not in the community
four indigenous communities that tell their
interest. This was the case in the proposed
stories through filmmaking. Fighting against oil
regeneration
exploitation, they realised that they could use
have reduced social housing to 82 out of
film as a weapon to transform the situation,
2700 homes. In response to this PEACH
amplify voices and fuel resistance as images
(People’s Empowerment Alliance of Custom
are a more powerful tool than words. Coletivo
House) - a shor tlisted project for the prize
Beture - a filmmaking collective in the Kayapo
- was established in 2013 and developed
tribe of Ecuador - said that they often make
an alternative regeneration plan led by the
films to suit the powerful white men: short,
community.
snappy edits with limited dialogue, as they know
and community organisers, who developed
that is what will have more of an effect on them.
a plan that met the outcomes desired by the
in
Newham,
PEACH
which
employed
would
architects
council - including number of homes, access to facilities, and green spaces. The council has since created a regeneration board
OTHER WINNERS INCLUDE:
where 50% of the members are elected from the community and there has been a
Apthapi
Communidades
del
Vivir
Bien
commitment towards genuine par ticipation.
in Bolivia run a ‘Living Well’ project that will
As one member of PEACH said at the Lush
create a school of living well to teach people
Spring Prize “regeneration is about growing
how to live well through respect for the land
and changing to make things better. It is not
and themselves.
longer a dir ty word.”
● Verdegaia in Spain works with volunteers to
One of the most interesting discussions was
restore the land devastated in the 2017 forest
around ecotourism and how it can suppor t
fires in Galacia whilst raising awareness of the
regenerative work. The Ripanu project in
importance of regeneration.
Ecuador will use ecotourism to suppor t
●
the Sapara people in the Amazon and fight network
against oil exploitation. However, it was
permaculture
pointed out that ecotourism can be damaging
organisations to share practice and develop
when it is not done right. For example, when
awareness of existing initiatives.
it is done through large tour operators who
ECOLISE that
is
supports
a
European
wide
community-led
don’t understand the local communities, Labratorio Sicilia 2030 works with local
there can be more harm than good.
groups to regenerate and grow sustainably by working towards the UN 2030 Sustainable
Ecotourism of ten brings minimal legitimate
Development Goals.
benefits to communities in local areas - just consider all the communities around safari
INSO in Mexico’s Slow Water project is
parks in countries like Zimbabwe who are
tackling the water crisis in Oaxaca that has
given a handful of school books when the
been devastating local communities. This
tour operators are raking in thousands
is done through training, and working with
of
stakeholders.
ecotourism is of ten an excuse for white
PAGE 64
dollars
ever y
week.
Additionally,
B R I G HT
A member of Ripanu, one of the winners of the Intentional Project Awards speaking at the LUSH Spring Prize 2019
saviour
far
website at ecolise.eu which has a map of
beyond going to a community we have no
activities
-
we
should
be
activities and groups across Europe, and
connection with just for a photo op with a
most impor tantly find out more about all the
cute black kid. The message was clear from
Spring Prize winners from 2019 by visiting
par ticipants af fected by ecotourism - go
springprize.org
™lushspringprize
directly to communities if you can, engage with legitimate organisations and really assess whether your visit is doing more
Sources:
harm than good.
New trend report: the New Sustainability: Regeneration (J Walter Thomson Intellegence,
Being a par t of the Lush Spring Prize was
2018)
one of the most eye-opening and impactful
h t t p s : / / w w w. j w t i n t e l l i g e n c e . c o m / 2 0 1 8 / 0 9 /
conference experiences that I have had. It
new-trend-repor t-the-new-sustainability-
showed me that there is always more that
regeneration/
we can do to suppor t the future of this planet.
The Lush Spring Prize 2019, Emerson College, Sussex and Rich Mix, London
The first step has to be to learn. Take a step back from what you know. Look for
The Lush Spring Prize: A Background Paper
projects in your area, visit the ECOLISE
(ECRA, September 2016)
PAGE 65
PAGE 54
PAGE 55
B R I G HT
COOL SHIT
- BOOK -
- SKINCARE -
- BRAND -
Invisible Women proves that
This is editor Laura’s pick
After a hugely successful
in our society, what is male is
because she’s one tired vegan
crowdfunding campaign, this
universal and what is female
queen. Glossier’s Bubblewrap
super cool sustainable brand
is niche. Perez shows us all
under eye (and lip) cream is
is up and running with their
the glaring gender data gaps
designed to moisturise, plump
full clothing line. Think neutral
and how these impact women,
and smooth out those crepey
tones, organic fabrics, and
from car safety built for male
under eyes making you look
ethics in the right place. Slow
bodies, to smartphones too big
less crinkled and more like
fashion is the way forward,
for women’s hands to women’s
you had enough sleep this
and here you can pick up
unpaid care burdens. This isn’t
week. It’s £23 but you only
some staple pieces that will
an attack on men, but rather a
use a tiny bit per application
last you in the long run.
call for more fair and balanced
so it lasts ages. And it seems
data that includes all people.
to actually work...
A truly fascinating read.
™ccriadoperez
™glossier
™trace.collective
PAGE 68
B R I G HT
OUR C O O L SHIT CUR ATO R S BR I NG Y O U T HE BE ST ST UFF T H IS ISS UE . Y O U’R E WE L CO M E .
- APP -
- PODCAST -
-BOOK-
Be My Eyes is an app that
Yoga is Dead explores race,
Yes we know we already
allows people with visual
privilege and capitalism
put one book in Cool Shit
impairments to call a sighted
in the yoga and wellness
this issue but we’re in the
person to help them.It
industry. Expect some blunt,
business of getting people to
could be help with reading
honest takes which call out
read stuff, okay?
something, checking the
cultural appropriation and
An Opinionated Guide
numbers on a loyalty card or
whitewashing in episodes
To Vegan London from
what setting they’ve put the
including ‘White Women
Hoxton Mini Press is a
slow cooker on. You get a
Killed Yoga’ and ‘Vegans
cute little book containing
notification when someone
Killed Yoga’. Educational
a gorgeous selection of the
needs help, and each call only
and challenging at points,
best places in London for
takes a couple of minutes, but
it’s a must-listen - not just for
vegan food, according to
can make a big difference.
yoga lovers, but for anyone
IG food queen Sara Kiko
interested in equality.
Pipowya™shisodelicious.
™bemyeyesapp
™yogaisdeadpodcast
PAGE 69
™hoxtonminipress
B R I G HT
TALKING INTERSE
Written by Evie Muir™xeviemuir
If you haven’t been sleeping on developments
veganism and feminism long before it became
within activist circles, you’ve probably seen
an
the term ‘intersectionality’ thrown about.
‘absent referent’ to describe the “interweaving
And for good reason, as it is recognised as
of the oppression of women and animals”,
key to ensuring equality within social and
she recognised that there are historical,
political activism. Without an intersectional
cultural and institutional mechanisms which
approach, a movement excludes the most
normalises a distance in perception, allowing
marginal members of society by reinforcing
animals and oppressed humans to be seen as
problematic power structures, inequalities
something as opposed to someone. However,
and systems of oppression.
the mainstream vegan movement still has a
infamous
buzzword.
Using
the
term
long way to go to in applying intersectionality, Kimberlé Crenshaw first introduced the term
ensuring that all members of society are
as a tool for understanding “how multiple
able to access a vegan lifestyle, free from
forms of inequality or disadvantage compound
prejudice and discrimination. Presently, the
themselves, and often are not understood
mainstream vegan movement is elitist: it
within conventional ways of thinking in anti-
is centred on a privileged majority who can
racism or feminism or whatever social justice
dismiss the existence of oppressions. “New
advocacy
does
wave” veganism has been whispered about,
veganism as an activist movement also needs
one that is more inclusive, accessible and
to be intersectional?
ethical, but this has so far amounted to no
structures
we
have.”
So,
more than a few ripples in our ever expanding In The Sexual Politics of Meat, Carol J.
vegan pond. How then are we meant to create
Adams recognises the intersection between
this tsunami of change?
PAGE 70
B R I G HT
CTIONALITY
This article attempts to contribute to this
“other”. It is written from the position that racism
obscure
examining
is not solely defined as “bad acts inflicted by
veganism in relation to racism. First, it is
bad people” (acts that can be expunged when
important to remind ourselves that animal
weighed up against comparative “good acts”
cruelty is inherently a racial issue which
such as loving animals.) Rather, this article
disproportionately
recognises
water
metaphor
affects
by
communities
of
that
privilege
affords
benefits
colour globally, both directly and indirectly. We
which are reinforced both consciously and
know 75% of global soybean crops alone are
unconsciously and which perpetuate systems of
used to feed livestock, whilst the World Bank
racial oppression. With this framework, it is my
estimates that 10% of the world population
hope that this article welcomes the possibility
are living in poverty on below $1.90 a day. We
of analysis of a movement which is undeniably
know food deserts are real issues linked with
rooted in good intentioned ethics of equality.
the rate at which we consume meat, yet why
Veganism is often placed on a pedestal of
do we find it so easy to separate the human
moral righteousness, and this article is not
impacts from the animal? Why are we so quick
here to dispute the validity of our plight for
to say “animals aren’t ours for humans to
animal liberation. However, our movement is
exploit” when equally, animal liberation should
rarely critiqued in context of a broader narrative
not mitigate human rights?
which includes human oppression, and surely it’s about time this happened right? So, this
At this point, I think it’s important to clarify that
article argues that an introspective reflection
this article is written in acknowledgement that
on how veganism is as complicit in systems of
whiteness is positioned as the norm and any
oppression as any other institution is necessary
deviation from this becomes classified as the
for equitable, sustainable growth.
PAGE 71
B R I G HT
ECONOMIC BARRIERS Ironically, we tell people how inexcusably
CULTURAL BARRIERS
easy veganism is to adopt, overlooking how inaccessible it can be. At face value, our
Cultural
argument seems valid, due to the scores
their heritage and culture. He tells a story of
spiritual, religious, geographical, economic,
his grandma – a Jewish WW2 survivor - and
racial and medical lines.
how her relationship with food was built on of
a determination never to starve again and to
meat-alternative
ensure that her family was always provided
products is largely only affordable for the
for: “for her, food is not food. It is terror,
privileged, working, middle class, who can
dignity,
shop at M&S or Waitrose, and who have the
our family tree”.
in England are eligible for Free School Meals (widely acknowledged as a measure of social
In Veganism in an Oppressive World, Julia
deprivation), it is not hard to see how race to
present
Feliz Brueck references Indigenous American
obstacles
belief systems which see the hunting and
for families accessing veganism, and how
eating of animals as a spiritual practice of
liberal consumerism is simply not enough. It
reincarnation. The rejection of the validity of
is important to recognise that the argument against
speciesism
doesn’t
end
with
joyfulness,
were picked from the destroyed branches of
on average, 42% of Black Caribbean children
intersect
vengeance,
love. As if the fruits she always offered us
lifestyle on top of everyday survival. When,
class
gratitude,
humiliation, religion, history, and, of course
luxury of time to dedicate to learning a new
and
be
language which grounds communities within
practical barriers of access across cultural,
range
never
of meal times and how food is a common
mainstream veganism can be insensitive to
growing
should
Safran Foer discusses the cultural significance
catering to vegan lifestyles. Nevertheless,
The
obstacles
underestimated. In Eating Animals, Jonathan
of supermarkets and restaurants who are
this view shows racism which “is reflected in
our
the way Indigenous people are treated as if
‘cow vs dog’ narrative; it extends to minority
they are more like other animals than Settlers
ethnic groups. Demanding devotion in time,
are and therefore, ill-equipped to make good
finances, energy and empathy to a cause
decisions about their territories, bodies or
from a demographic of people who experience
lives”. For the Caribbean Diaspora, food
these lived material struggles on a daily basis
is inherently associated with identity and
(and systemically robbing them of the same
belonging in the context of a society which
empathy that we extend to animals) shows
is actively exclusive. These complex cultural
them that mainstream veganism considers
and historic connotations are dismissed in
their struggles to be less important.
insensitive pleas for “everyone to be vegan – no excuses” when, as vegans, we should know better than most how eating habits form an inherent part of our identity.
PAGE 72
B R I G HT
RACIAL MANIPULATION Without this cultural context, ignorance influences problematic activist methods when canvassing on the street or advocating via social media.
REPRESENTATION
The scores of videos of white activists equating the trans-Atlantic slave trade (ironically linked
While ever we continue to centre whiteness as
to how ‘soul food’ was created from the scraps
the norm in veganism, the issues described
which plantation owners granted slaves) or the
above will never be challenged introspectively.
Holocaust, to the meat industry, as a tool to
A quick scroll through Instagram or a glance
guilt trip people of colour into ‘converting’, are
at the top vegan cookbooks shows this to be
abhorrent. Western vegans often appropriate
true. The current ‘faces of veganism’ are white
‘exotic’ recipes from other cultures, despite the
males spearheading the movement, along with
narrative that positions the West as being morally
many white female influencers. Whilst their
superior to the inhumane, uneducated savages
intentions can’t be disputed, these influencers
from overseas who continue to eat meat. In
dominate social media, representing privilege,
actuality, many cultures centre plant-based diets,
reinforcing oppressive methods of mobilisation
sometimes due to an economical default whereby
and are un-relatable to many people from
meat is an unaffordable symbol of status such as
different heritages, backgrounds, cultures or
South East Asian countries, or due to spiritual
abilities.
and ethical health motivators such as Ital food in Rastafarian culture.
The vegan movement is full of prominent activists, chefs and entrepreneurs of colour
Manipulating prominent cultural events must also
(people such as Erykah Badu, Bryant Terry,
stop. I’m surely not the only one who finds the
Akala, JME, Will.I.Am, Angela Davis, Wedaeli
preaching on Martin Luther King Day insufferable
Chibelushi,
and offensive. Telling us that “because his son’s
Russell
vegan, it’s reasonable to assume that if he was still
Tinie
Simmons,
Tempah, Vegans
Vegan of
Richa,
Colour
UK,
London Afro Vegan, Jasmine Levya, Eshe
alive he too would be vegan, therefore all black
Kiama Zuri, Rachel Ama and Forward to
people should go vegan”, not only doesn’t make
Ethiopia to name a few) whose heritage directly
sense (Hitler was supposedly vegetarian but we’re
impacts their activism, and provide platforms
not using him as a martyr) but it is built on neo-
for representation in the movement. However
colonial and frankly offensive dichotomies – black
we never see the same recognition as our
history is not white people’s to manipulate to their
white counterparts. The lack of representation
own end. There are many vegan activists of colour
presents as a barrier to people accessing
doing the work around this issue, and we are
veganism, because if we don’t see people like
invariably trolled online for doing so. White Fragility
us, it is hard to identify with a movement in
has no place in a movement based on care and
which we can’t find belonging. As Jasmine
compassion. Once again it becomes the role of
Levya states in Invisible Vegan “we need more
the marginalised to defend our lived experiences
visibility to a lifestyle that is far too invisible in
amongst fellow activists who are automatically
certain communities”.
PAGE 73
B R I G HT
INTERSECTIONALITY IN PRACTICE So, what can we do to ensure the movement is
everyone to work to decentre whiteness, and
free from animal products and discrimination?
destabilise power dynamics in a movement that
Carol
one
at its very core is built on compassion, ethics and
lacks power in the dominant culture, such
empathy towards other living beings. I’m still of
disempowerment may make one more alert
the opinion that everyone should be vegan, but
to other forms of disempowerment – privilege
am much more conscious of complexities within
resists self-examination” - that’s exactly what
a broader context. It is counterproductive to
needs to happen. A critical re-examination of
maintain a “preachy vegan” stereotype without
self and society is imperative for developing
providing tangible solutions to major problems
change in veganism. The issues summarised
of access and inclusivity.
in this article echo the voices of many other
Building
activists of colour before me, who continue to
recommendations in Veganism in an Oppressive
be marginalised. Our voices are valid and our
World, some ways in which you can begin to
analysis needs to be adopted. It is the job of
evolve your veganism include:
J.
Adams
argues
that
“when
on
Julia
Feliz
Brueck’s
a
Recognise and challenge your privilege.
a
Reject single-issue advocacy and adopt an anti-racist approach.
a
Apply a consistent anti-oppression approach, which creates an environment in which marginalised communities aren’t further oppressed
a
When vegans of colour speak, listen!
a
Do use people of colour as targets for campaigns.
a
Never use people of colour to justify the oppression of anyone.
a
Never use the historical oppression of any group to draw similarities with our fight for animals
a
Learn about and from other cultures.
a
Openly reject vegans who support or take part in racism (Anonymous for the Voiceless recently defended its right wing members who openly discriminate against minorities, stating that political alignment is a “trivial” thing).
a
Defer culturally sensitive conversations to those affected by those issues.
a
Advocate for accessible/inexpensive vegan products.
a
Apply ethical consistency in your abstinence of products– are your faux leather shoes made by fast-fashion brands built on human exploitation?
a
Allow yourself room for mistakes, without making excuses for ignorance. Be proactive in your educational growth and apologise sincerely to those who your mistakes may offend.
a
Ensure that when asking vegans of colour for advice or support, you do so with an awareness which doesn’t assume or expect cooperation. Our time, energy and knowledge does not have to be volunteered when self-education is possible, or if doing so requires (unpaid) emotional labour.
WHAT WILL YOU DO TO ENSURE YOUR ACTIVISM IS INFORMED, INCLUSIVE AND INTERSECTIONAL?
PAGE 74
B R I G HT
REFERENCES & FURTHER READING A. Breeze Harper (ed.) (2009) Sistah Vegan: Black Female Vegans Speak on Food, Identity, Health and Society Aph Ko and Syl Ko (2017) Aphro-Ism: Essays on Pop Culture, Feminism and Black Veganism from
COOKBOOKS
Two Sisters. Carol J. Adams (2015) The Sexual Politics of Meat
Ama T. Opare (2014) Food for the Soul from Ama’s
Claire Jean Kim (2015) Dangerous Crossings:
Kitchen: Soulfood Vegan and Raw Vegan
Race, Species and Nature in a Multi-Cultural Age.
Bryant Terry (2009) Vegan Soul Kitchen
Jonathan Safran Foer (2011) Eating Animals
Bryant
Julia Feliz Bruek (2017) Veganism in an
Terry
(2014)
Afro-Vegan:
Farm-Fresh
African, Caribbean and Southern Flavours Remixed
Oppressive world: a vegans of colour community
Chat Mingkwan (2005) Buddha’s Table
project
Estee Raviv (2018) Oy Vey Vegan
Julia Feliz Bruek (2019) Veganism of Colour:
Rachel Ama (2019 )Rachel Ama’s Vegan Eats
Decentering Whiteness in Human and Nonhuman
Richa Hingle (2015) Vegan Richa’s Indian Kitchen
Liberation
Sasha Gill (2019) East Meets Vegan
Kawani AJ Brown (2016) Where does dinner come
Sasha Gill (2019) Jackfruit and Blue Ginger: Asian
from? A plant based children’s book
favourites, made Vegan.
Lambeth Education and Learning (2017) Black
Taymer Mason (2010) Caribbean Vegan
Caribbean Underachievement in Schools in
Tracye McQuirter - African American Vegan Starter
England: https://www.lambeth.gov.uk/rsu/sites/
Guide (downloadable and orderable for free)
www.lambeth.gov.uk.rsu/files/black_caribbean_ underachievement_in_schools_in_england_2017.pdf Lisa A. Kemmerer (2011) Sister Species: Women,
FILMS & DOCUMENTARIES
Animals and Social Justice Mark S. Roberts (2008) The Mark of The Beast: Animality and Human Oppression
Can you dig this?
One Green Planet (2017) How planting
Cowspiracy: The Sustainable Secret
crops used to feed livestock is contributing to
Soul Food Junkies
habitat destruction: www.onegreenplanet.org/
The Invisible Vegan
environment/livestock-feed-and-habitat-destruction/
Vegucated
Sunaura Taylor (2017) Beasts of Burden: Animal and Disability Liberation Trayce McQuirter (2010) By Any Greens Necessary: A Revolutionary Guide for Black Women who want to eat great, get healthy, lose weight and look Phat. World Bank (2019) Poverty: www.worldbank.org/ en/topic/poverty/overview
PAGE 75
B R I G HT
OUR RESIDENT SNEAKERHEAD FROM NYC BRINGS YOU THE LATEST IN VEGAN SNEAKER CULTURE Before
there
was
“Circularity”,
there
was
“Considered”.
However (and this is a much larger story...), they accomplished a tremendous amount within that shortcoming, and this is the point I’m trying to make.
As always, it’s an honor to be provided a platform
I look to Nike to lead the conversation in their design
to communicate ideas on mindful consumption,
principles because of how massive they are, but it
so here are some real-time thoughts on what’s
doesn’t actually start there, it starts here. In our local
percolating in my ecosystem.
communities and in our communication online... In this latest offering, we are being equipped with the
In 2019 Nike rolled out “Circularity: Guiding the
knowledge that Nike has gained with their abundant
Future of Design”, a workbook crafted to provide
resources. I’ve always been concerned about
designers and product creators with a common
information accessibility and whether it is being
language for circularity. The initiative neatly lays out
given to communities and designers who really need
10 key principles in a digestible, thought-provoking
it. Too often, the information is kept at a distance
format. It’s free, it’s shareable, it contains big ideas,
and small companies struggle to unlock a path to
and it’s an essential roadmap for the future...but I
sustainability in their own practice, largely because
feel like we’ve been here before and I hope we don’t
the process is extremely challenging to implement
end up here again, and here’s what I mean:
and understand without help.
In 2005, Nike launched their first shoe under the
I recently went to an “Earth Symposium” hosted by
moniker: “Considered”, a project spawned from a
Sustainable Brooklyn, here in NYC. The afternoon
company wide training program that was launched
offered up conversations with local farmers, local
in 2000 and centered around product sustainability
designers, wellness experts, and an array of
and sustainability metrics. While the project was
sustainability
developing, NIke found that it was slow-moving
issues within our local community... and that
and complicated to implement with manufacturers
dialogue is as important as what Nike is doing. The
across the globe. The initiative sparked a small
solutions to the challenges we face are not located
revolution within footwear and inspired designers
all the way “out there”, they are truly right here...
with innovative ideas like water-based cements,
within reach. As an outcome of the symposium I was
interlocking components that required no toxins
reminded to stay focused on both, and to make a
or bonding, and in some cases the use of fully
daily impact by choosing to “vote” with my dollar (or
recycled materials to create a sneaker. They tried
pounds) on products that I believe in. Some of those
to set the gold standard of environmentally-friendly
purchases involve the local businesses I support,
execution, and, sadly, they did not ultimately
but they also touch my purchases on a large scale
achieve their version.
with brands like Nike. Every action counts.
professionals
tackling
actionable
THE AIR
B R I G HT
I’m always quick to mention that perfection is not the best way to invite people into this evolving conversation. While “Circularity” is a huge initiative from Nike, it’s greatest asset is that it’s rooted in an imperfect experiment that began almost 20 years ago. An unfortunate trend that I consistently see with large companies is that they are often afraid to discuss their efforts or unlock their research because they are afraid of backlash for not achieving perfection, and that is unfair, for all of us. Yes, we could line up to point out the failures of all industries who have harmed the environment, but our greatest tool is to promote the progress being made and communicate with each other about what we’re learning. The hope is that freedom of information is a catalyst to greater progress. So thanks to folks like Sustainable Brooklyn and every individual and brand who is aiming to make a difference. I commend Nike for providing the new “Circularity” workbook because other brands can all learn from their extensive research, and apply it to their practices. These ideas shouldn’t be a secret, they shouldn’t exist only for the fortunate, and they certainly shouldn’t feel so far away because we’re all interconnected, and we’re all in this together. ...and just in case you forgot, The Future is Vegan. Your friend, The Air Vegan
™theAIRVEGAN
VEGAN
B R I G HT
Photos by Mikaela Spiteri â„¢mikaelaspiteri
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THE BRIGHT CLUB THE UK’S FIRST VEGAN MEMBER’S CLUB We started BRIGHT with the aim of supporting the growing vegan community and bringing people together, and since our earliest days we’ve held events, collaborated with others and done what we can to help the community. When we released Issue One we never would’ve dreamed of opening our own space, but we’ve done it, we have created The BRIGHT Club. The BRIGHT Club is an event space for the vegan community. We’re putting on a range of events, but we’re inviting you to put your own on too. Whether it’s meet ups, social events, talks, panel discussions, exhibitions, product launches, or our super popular vegan queen brunch clubs, you name it, we’ll host it. This is your space. BRIGHT has also aimed to support and nurture vegan businesses, and The BRIGHT Club is a physical space for just that. We have created a flexible workspace for co-working, meetings, conferences and staff away days. Through networking, co-working and collaboration we aim to create a hub for London’s vegan community based on shared ethical and sustainable values. As well as a physical space, we have created an online platform for vegans and vegan businesses far and wide, with online events and networking, and a bank of resources to help with personal and business development. Community is everything to us at BRIGHT, so join us.
THEBRIGHTCLUB.CO ™T H E B R I G H T C L U B L D N .
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REAL TALK:
ARE YOUR DRUG CHOICES ETHICAL? Written by Sareta Puri™saretapuri Illustrations by Tamsin Callan™tamsinrose
The media is keen to pull up vegans for
It was a natural high until the 19th century,
being holier-than-thou then going against
when Americans started to use it in modern
their perceived principles. An abundance
medicine. This eventually led to cocaine
of articles over the past few years have
becoming one of the most-used recreational
screamed at vegans to not do coke.
drugs of the 20th century, making mass production and loss of purity inevitable.
Some of these articles have been more tongue in cheek than others but the reality is
Nowadays, cocaine production is responsible
if you’re vegan for environmental or ethical
for some of the most devastating deforestation
reasons then taking unethically produced
in Central America and for the subsequent loss
drugs - that may also contain animal products
of habitat for hundreds of species. Do you avoid
- is problematic.
palm oil because it’s wiping out orangutans? Well, for every gram of coke produced, four
Let’s
start
everyone’s
with -
best
everyone’s friend,
-
well,
Charlie.
not
square meters of rainforest are destroyed,
Coke.
making it just as unacceptable as palm oil.
Cocaine. Drugs aren’t just killing animals through Coke is made from the coca plant and has
deforestation. During early production the
been used for centuries in its purest form by
coca is mixed with kerosene or diesel (yup,
indigenous people in South America who chew
the stuff for fueling machines, not people),
on the leaves as a mild natural stimulant. We
caustic soda, sometimes even battery acid
like plants so so far so good. Right?
and concrete (yum) and then the waste
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B R I G HT
chemicals are dumped into nearby rivers
Drugs including cocaine and ecstasy are also
affecting both animal and human populations
often cut with other substances to make it
in the vicinity.
cheaper. One of these is lactose - a by-product of milk, making it a non-vegan substance.
Coca farming also uses more toxic pesticides
Sure it might not be in every gram or pill but
to clear the land, which results in the land
how are you to know?
only
being
suitable
for
coca
production.
This damage to the land ties farmers into an
What about weed, surely that’s vegan? It’s
unethical profession that comes with a whole
a plant af ter all. Bone, blood and feather
slew of human rights issues.
meal - the ground up or dried by-products of the meat industr y are commonly used
Humans are exploited throughout the process
in fer tilizers. These are the same products
- from working back-breaking hours in high
that are used on other fruit and veg like
temperatures for little money to grow the
tomatoes. Veganic - vegan and organic -
coca, to being used as mules to traffick drugs
marijuana is a thing though and is overall
across borders and then of course the unsafe
more sustainable as it uses methods like
and perilous conditions involved in selling
using compost tea bags.
and dealing. Children are being trafficked around the UK across the whole illegal drugs
Home-grown weed without these pesticides
trade - not just cocaine - with threats of rape,
is arguably pretty sustainable. But grown
violence and kidnap being real.
en
masse
not
only
are
the
pesticides
an issue but also energy consumption. Animals are sadly also still being used for
Marijuana production in the US is one of the
trafficking drugs as a recent news story told
countr y’s most energy-intensive industries.
of a vet smuggling heroin into America in the
Then
stomachs of puppies.
undocumented workers, of ten from Mexico,
there’s
labour.
Again,
in
the
US
are employed as pickers and have harsh Being transported from Columbia to destinations
working conditions.
all across the world - with England and Wales having the highest global rates of cocaine
The common perception is that the problem is
consumption - means that coke is going to have
too big to do anything about. What difference
a pretty shoddy carbon footprint. Does anyone
will abstaining from a gram - or four - at the
take into account their weekly coke binges when
weekend do to the production of an entire
they offset their carbon footprint? It’s unlikely.
industry?
That
attitude
however
means
that more people are being exploited, more Fish have even recently been found in English
damage is being done to the land, and more
rivers with measurable amounts of coke and
animals are losing their homes and lives. In
ketamine in their systems, with additional
a similar train of thought as I might as well
reports showing that eels have been acting
continue to use single-use plastic as my
strangely due to cocaine ingestion.
tiny effort doesn’t make a difference. But if
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everyone took that approach we would never
this is certainly not common practice and
manage to regenerate the earth to where it
a significant proportion of the population
needs to be.
wouldn’t even know that animal products are often present in medication, and therefore
We’re not just talking about illegal, recreational
would not know to ask about relevant options.
drugs here. A lot of prescribed or over the counter drugs also contain animal products.
I had an experience several years ago when getting the flu jab - which I’d been getting for
A
study
of
the
100
most
commonly
years as someone more at risk - when the
prescribed drugs in the UK in 2013 showed
nurse asked if I was allergic to eggs, I said
that 74 contained one or more of lactose,
no and before I got to question her on it, the
gelatine, or magnesium stearate - a binding
jab had been done. All those years before I
fat usually derived from beef. Within these,
didn’t have a clue that egg was present which
many did not state that they contained
is actually quite worrying in case I did have
animal products.
an allergy.
Lactose is used most often as a diluent or filler
However despite all this, if someone tries to
in tablets or capsules but also as a carrier
argue that taking medicine isn’t vegan - which
in dry-powder inhalation products. Capsule
I’ve definitely been on the receiving end
painkillers are often coated in gelatine.
of - then they have failed to understand the purpose of the movement and the definition
Some types of oestrogen are derived from
of veganism which is to avoid animal products
animal products, such as Premarin, which is
wherever possible or practical.
used to treat menopausal hot flushes and is made from a pregnant mare’s urine.
So then you might argue why not just do a line of coke and have fun?
Studies have shown that it can be difficult for consumers to determine whether a particular
This is where intersectionality and human
medication contains animal products or not as
suffering come into play. If, as discussed,
there is inconsistency with labeling and what
there is any harm being done to any being -
information is shared. Current EU regulations
human or animal - then ethics would dictate
mean that manufacturers cannot state in
that you would refrain from that practice.
information leaflets if a product is suitable for
Similar to avoiding fast fashion clothes that
vegans or vegetarians as these are seen as
have been produced in sweatshops with
lifestyle choices.
minimal rights for workers.
NICE (National Institute for Health and Care
At the end of the day it’s a personal choice
Excellence)
that
but if you are striving to make an ethical and
healthcare professionals should ask patients
environmental impact on the planet perhaps
about preferences and concerns. However,
it’s time to think again before calling the man.
recommendations
state
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L OW IM PA C T, L O W CO S T Written by Emma Oldham
™the_wild_mum .
Living a zero-waste lifestyle sounds dreamy. No plastics, no waste, no unnecessar y clutter. Ever ything made and purchased with purpose. From bamboo cutler y sets to glass coffee cups and cloth face wipes.... throwing yourself into a zero-waste lifestyle can get expensive. If we are not careful, this cost can end up demotivating us in the next steps of our zero-waste journey. But, do not feel discouraged. I’m here to prove that zero-waste is affordable and that actually, many items can save you money. Move over ‘single-use’ society. Here are 8 items, all £10 or under, showcasing how zero-waste living is affordable, enjoyable and far more purposeful.
SHAMPOO BAR, KITENEST The prime solution to annihilating plastic bottles
from
the
bathroom.
This
zesty
lemon bar arrives naked. No packaging, just natural wholesome goodness. Lather the bar into your hands and apply to your hair for a natural shine and strengthening. The bar’s ingredients are printed onto seed card, so once done, you can transform into wildflowers. Now that is ‘blooming’ good zero-waste. £6.95 kitenest.co.uk ™kitenest
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CONDITIONER BAR, ZEN GARDEN A companion to your lemon shampoo bar.
Let
this
floral
conditioner
bar
calm down your day and preser ve the balance oxf your scalp. Loaded with rose essential oil, it will promote hair growth and prevent dandruf f. Petite, plastic-free and handmade in Leicester. £8.50 zengarden.shop ™_zengarden_
VEGAN CAKE MASCARA, BAIN & S AV O N No space for waste here. Handmade in Cumbria, this vegan mascara cake is all natural. Save your old mascara wand and roll it into the cake before applying to your lashes. Not only does this prolong the life of an existing lash wand, but it helps eliminate plastic makeup going to landfill. This product is diver se. Use it as an eyeliner or eyebrow filler when applied with a moisturised brush.
Each tin is
finished with a 100% organic preser vative to avoid long term microbial growth. When all used up, recycle the tin as storage for earrings or hair slides. £8.50 bain-savon.co.uk
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™ bainandsavon
FOOD WRAPS, VEGAN FOOD WRAPS Im pressively
ver satile.
From
keeping
your sarnies fresh to folding into a pouch for filling with loose grains, or covering over bowls, these vegan wax-wraps do it all. They are guaranteed to reduce the amount of clingfilm, tin foil and other unnecessar y
pac kaging
creeping
into
your home. They can be washed and re-treated making them a long-lasting kitchen essential. £10 veg anfoodwr aps.co.uk
™veg anfoodwr aps
U N S P O N G E , AV O C A D O H O M E M A D E If you replace your kitchen sponge on a weekly basis, you could be sending 50-60 sponges to landfill a year. Swapping to a reusable will not only reduce you waste, but it will also save you money and help your health! The average kitchen sponge is 200,000 times dir tier than a toilet seat and harbour s 10 million bacteria per sq uare
inch!
These
handmade
cotton
sponges will get you into great practice of washing your sponges, helping to kill of f bacteria. Cotton on top and organic waf fle fabric underneath, these reusables can scrub away dir t. They’re also stuf fed with Kapok - a natural plant fibre, so when your sponge has finally croc ked it, you can com post it. They look great too. £6 for two Etsy: avocadohandmadeUK
™avocadohandmade
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P L A N TA B L E G R E E T I N G C A R D S , LOOP LOOP A l a s , yo u n o l o n g e r h ave to d re a d p i c k i n g up plastic encased cards! These beautiful h a n d d r aw n g re et i n g c a r d s a re c o m p l e te l y c o m p o s t a b l e a n d p l a s t i c - f re e . S o p h i e h a s t h o u g h t o f t h e c a r d ’s f u t u re w i t h p o l l i n a to r s i n m i n d . W h e n i t i s t i m e to s ay g o o d bye , yo u c a n p l a n t t h e c a r d a n d wa t c h i t g r o w i n to f l owe r s ! N o t r a c e o f wa s te ! N o w t h a t i s s o m et h i n g to c e l e b r a te ! £2.90 E t s y: L o o p L o o p C r a f t s
™t h i n k _ l o o p l o o p
POT BRUSH, & KEEP SHOPPING Wave goodbye to plastic scrubbing brushes that’ll never leave the earth again. These untreated FSC beech wooden pot brushes last longer than 10 of your plastic brushes put together. Whenever it gets dirty, simply pop it into your dishwasher for a shower. Made with plant-based bristles from agave cactus and dried palm leaf, they are completely compostable. They are easy to grip, sturdy, and they look great too. £3.85 andkeep.com
™andkeepshopping
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#ANYONECANBEAVEGANQUEEN BRIGHTZINE.CO
B R I G HT
‘Protected’ by Roxane Dewar
™roxane_dewar roxanedewar.co.uk
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