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24 Brighton & Hove Independent Friday, April 25 2014

@BrightonIndy

Food and Drink

Sponsored by Sun Harvest

Coggings & Co focuses on high-quality food at affordable prices with first-class service @placesieatbtn

Coggings & Co is the new burger restaurant in town. That is right, restaurant. Not a pop-up, not street food, not the world’s biggest, not the world’s baddest. Just straightup burgers served in a sit-down, table-service environment. Having opened on the site of Blenio Bistro, off Seven Dials, Coggings & Co is the latest establishment from Andrew Coggings, the restaurateur whose previous ventures include Preston Park Tavern, where he won Pub of the Year in the 2013 Sustainable Restaurant Awards. With Andrew’s priors having an excellent reputation for affordable, high-quality food as well as a strong emphasis on both sustainability and service, it is no surprise that Coggings & Co has taken on both of these attributes. Painted externally with a gorgeous deep purple, Coggings & Co fits in beautifully on Dyke Road among the high-end furniture and boutique shops. Fronted by large

windows, the restaurant is bright and spacious, scattered with a mix of study tables for two or more, each topped with thick wooden tops from local business, The Wood Store. The clever branding continues with well-presented purple-and-white menus, printed on thick, recycled paper. In keeping with their Sussex produce focus, Coggings & Co beef is fully traceable to Redlands Farm, Horam. Using chuck meat that is then ground in house daily, all burgers are cooked medium and served as 6oz patties in a Real Pattiserie brioche bun. There is both classic and slightlyadventurous burger combinations to be found at Coggings & Co: tomato, mayonnaise, dill pickles and salad, brisket and chipolte chilli with guacamole, sour cream and salad or the gorgeous-sounding

mushroom tapenade, Harvey’s rarebit and English mustard mayonnaise. Vegetarian and bun-less options also are on the menu as well as daily specials. Opting for a more traditional burger, I chose the 6oz patty with

Grape of the Week Bacchus

The places I eat

Claire Beveridge

www.brightonandhoveindependent.co.uk

Coggings & Co @coggingsandco 87-93 Dyke Road, Brighton, BN1 3JE 01273 220220 www.coggingsandco.com

Both classic and slightly-adventurous burger combinations are to be found

coastal cheddar, dry-cured honeyglazed streaky bacon, mustard mayonnaise and salad with a side of triple cooked chips (£10.95). Given the option of whether I would like my chips cooked in beef dripping or vegetable oil was, again, a nice touch and an ideal option for the more health-conscious. Stacked high, slicing the bun and meat combo in half took some effort and it was rewarding to see a pink glow in the centre of the beef patty. The meat itself was burly, slightly smokey, and had an almost earthy, organic flavour to it. The light brioche held the fillings together well and did not slop and slide like in some other burger joints. What was most refreshing, however, about the Coggings & Co burger was that you could taste every single attribute: the oozing mature cheddar, the slightlysweet yet salty bacon, the smokey

mustard mayonnaise and (best of all) the meaty, well-seasoned patty. Each topping was there and had a purpose. Nothing too extravagant, just a highly-decent burger. Homemade mayonnaise, rocketlaced, peppery side salad and beef dripping chips completed the meal, along with a dessert off the specials menu: a supremely-sweet homemade Bakewell tart with homemade raspberry and white chocolate ice cream. Expect table service that is second to none and a great range of Sussex-produced beers, cider and organic wines, including Harvey’s, Wobblegate, and a series of organic wines. The focus on high-quality food at affordable prices will ensure Coggings & Co is full of families, couples, and friends all in search of a traditional burger in a restaurant setting.

This grape is a product of German engineering. The Geilweilerhof Institute of Grape Breeding created it for growing in the western Palatinate region of the Rhineland in the early 1930’s by crossing what is believed to be a Silvaner x Riesling cross with the MüllerThurgau strain. The result is a grape that has a highly perfumed flavour and high sugar content, but often lacks the crucial acidity that most popular white wine varieties possess. All this means that on the continent it is not as highly prized as it might be mostly used for blending, especially with the juice of Müller-Thurgau grapes to strengthen its perfumed flavours. It is in England, however, that this grape really has really come into its own, as the cooler conditions and tightly controlled yield mean that they can achieve a complexity of flavour and acidity unobtainable elsewhere. When it comes to finding the perfect accompaniment, it is best to pair these mineral British whites with fresh summer ingredients such as white fish and lightly dressed seafood and salads, and rich soft cheeses such as goat or Wensleydale.

To read more by Claire Beveridge, visit: www.placesieatbrighton.com

Sam Gardom @SamGardom www.feastblog.co.uk

Bolney Bacchus 2011 ■ Bacchus ■ Sussex, England ■ £17.99 Quaff (www.quaffwine.com)

Sun Harvest The fruit-and-vegetable wholesaler and distributor

We supply local businesses with fresh produce and sundries at wholesale prices, alongside free hom

 Fresh fruit and vegetables

 Chilled and dairy

 Frozen foods

 Dry foods

* A SERVICE EXCLUSIVE TO THE BRIGHTON AND HOVE AREA

 Non-food

Brighton & Hove Independent - 25 April 2014  

Brighton & Hove Independent - 25 April 2014

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