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139 Brighton Ave. Allston. MA 02134 NEWS from BRAZIL. APRIL 1995

11r \e\ c1 \a1 01...-,-: L6-� --

-·

L-

�

•

'__

___...

Most filmmakers seem finally con

project. So arc a bunch of younger

vinced that their natural market -

but not less talented filmmakers such

After a long silence imposed by

and a huge one at that- is the domes

as Ana Maria Magalhacs, Ana Caro

economic circumstances the Bra

lina, and Jose Joffily.

zilian movie industry is again abuzz

tic one. They have also learned to make do on their own meager re

with activity. It's curious to notice

sources instead of waiting for never

more, very soon, we will be able to

that in the last three years, even

coming European or Hollywo o d

listen to Portuguese in the movie

when the spigot seemed completely

money and co-productions.

theaters, as in the 70's, the latest

Isn't it exciting to know that once

closed, some heroic souls contin

Caca Diegues, Hector Babenco,

ued to produce movies. God knows

Walter Hugo Khoury, Bruno Barreto,

surge of Brazilian cinematography? We dedicate a good chunk of our

at what cost. Some had to hock their

Tizuka Yamazaki, Nelson Pereira dos

editorial pages to this felicitous de

personal property and they are still

Santos, all these names that we for

velopment, hoping this is just a be

laboriously trying to release their

years have associated with great Bra

ginning of a new Renaissance for the

work now.

zilian movies are involved in a film

Brazilian arts and culture.

R.M.

Cover Springtime for Brazilian movies

Cr6ojca Mario de Andrade's Macunafma

Hollywood business

Travel Olinda & Recife Beauty & The Beauty

18 How to be a diplomat

Cover by Aylan Francesco

DEPARTMENTS 6 Rapidinhas

FranchiseR us

23 Nhenhenhem What?

24 TV: Welcome to rap-opera

16 Letters 26 Brazilian Notas 46 The Cultural Pulse 47 Por ai 49 Classifieds 50 U.S.A. Calendar 52 That's Braz\lian

42 Elvis is alive and welL.. in Brazil

44 Elba & Margareth- You ain't heard nothing yet

54 EQQ.g A trip through the savory routes of Brazil

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NEWS from BRAZIL is published monthly by News from Brazil- 203g N. Ave. 52, Los Angeles, CA, goo42-1 024. Application to mail at second class postage rate is pending at Los Angeles, CA. Single copy sold for $2. One year subscription for 12 issues is $3.00 (three dollars) in the U.S., $15 1n Canada and Mexoco, and $18 in all other countries. Allow 5 to 7 weeks to receive your first issue. Permission is hereby given to quote from or reprint any of the contents with proper cop yright credit. Editorial submissions are welcome. We occasionally reprint articles orogonally publoshed by Correio Brsziliense. News from Brszil assumes no responsibility for any claims made by its advertisers. POST MASTER: Please, send address changes to News from Brazil- P.O. Box 4253ti- Los Angeles, CA- 90050-0536

NEWS from BRAZIL -APRIL 1995

Desde os tempos mais remotos A camisinha sempre foi um born programa Em Roma e no antigo Egito Ninguem sabia o que ievava para a cama Marco Antoni o tambem usava E Cleopatra exigia e apoiava. Na ldade Media foi igual Com doen�a a dar com o pau Ninguem se ar riscava Ai veio o secu/o XX E a Aids acabou com a brincadei ra Todo mundo tem que ser esperto Porque ficar sem cami sinha e dar bobeira Oi bola a camisinha, bota pro valer E niio do chance para ess e tal the HIV Oi bota a camisinha, bota pro valer E niio do chance para esse tal the HIV

Since remote ages Rubber has always been the right thing In Rome and the old Egypt Nobody knew who he was taking to bed Marc Antony used it too And Cleopatra demanded and approved. It was the same in the Middle Ages With diseases crawling all over No one wanted to take a chance. Then it came the 20th Century And AIDS ended up all fun and games Everyone has to be smart Because to not use a rubber is to be dumb Hey, put your rubber, put it real good Give no chance to this HIV Hey, put your rubber, put it real good Give no chance to this HIV

NEWS from BRAZIL· APRIL 1995

A mulher do presidente e feia I ela e feia de malar I ela e a loraburra. These are the lyrics of a rap song and was impro vised by a Brazilian street kid who had been invited to Copenhagen for the Summit on Social Development. The "honoree" of the ditty was Hillary Clinton, 4 7, a honor guest at the meeting. She smiled while Saul Vicente do Amaral, 14, sang his very impolite message. It probably was better that she had no one to translate. The rapper was singing, "The president's wife is ugly I she is ugly as sin I she is a stupid blonde. Ending a two-year-and-a half coma, Leda Collor de Mello, mother of the impeached President Fernando Collor de Mello died February 25, without knowing bout two of the latest trag edies to hit her family: the impeachment of Fernando in September

92 and the fulminating cancer who took the life of Pedro Collor de Mello at the end of last year. Accusations from Pedro started the impeachment process. Apparently due

Profiteer heaven Speculators have been terrorizing financial markets all over the world and in the first week of March Brazil, in only three days, ended up paying $8 billion in ransom, to those betting on worse times while cashing fast their good-time earnings. In five days- a fact unheard of

$2 billion in foreign money left

the country. At the end of the tornado, Brazilian reserves had fallen from a total of $38 billion on Monday to $32 billion on Friday. In four days, the forecast for the annual inflation had increased from 20 to 27%. The Central Bank only was able to stop the bleeding on Friday when it

to all the feud in the family Dona Leda had suffered three cardiac arrests that ended up inducing her coma. She had poured out her heart

j ust

before her heart

failure, telling a friend, "Nothing worse could have happened to me at

drastically increased interest rates in order ti encourage conventional invest

the end of my life: one

ment and came to the betting table with $12 billion in hand menacing to flood

of my sons is a thief and

the market with the greenback. The players understood that it was no bluff and c�nged their tactics. Carlos Reis, ex-president of Rio's Stock Market summa

the other a delator.

rized the new mood, after the scare: "We have to forget the foreign investment and start living with our own money."

NEWS from BRAZIL· APRIL 1995

Yes. They are s Brazil has been a century ago, i mas Edison's year. This qua cameras are wh

Coming attractions (A sample) Ready for release Carmen 1\liranda: B:manas Is 1\ty Business - I Id.:na Solberg 0 Calor da P ele - P.:Jro Jorge

d.: Castro Cc�iu 137 Roberto l'ir.:s 0 Cuqw- .los\: Antonio (ian.:ia -

DiH:rl•tiun Assured - Odori�:<l tvkncks Luuco Pur Cinema - 1\ndr\: Lui/ Oli\ .:ira Menino 1\l aluquinhu - Ild\'\: i:IO Ral!on 1\lil e lima - Susana Mow.:s Minas Texas - Carlos 1\lb.:rto l'raks Corr\:a Nu Riu das Amazonas- Ri�:ar Jo Uras Perfume de Gard�nia - (iui lh..:rm.: d.: 1\lm.:ida Prado Ruckv & Hudson- O!lo (iu.:na S:1hall u - llgo Giorgdli Sumhras de Julho - Marcos /\It berg

In postproduction IUII60- Viniuus Mainunli 0 Amur Est:t nu Ar I\ mY lion -

1\lm.:iJa Cassiopeia - Chwis Vieira Corhco e Dadi1 - Ros.:mb.:rg As Fcras- Walla I ltH!O Khouri 0 Filme du Tetra - Murilo Salks JcniJHIJlll - Moniqu.: UarJ.:n b.:r!! Mel odrama: o C i n em:t d e L:igrim:ts d a Amcric<t l<ttin<t Ndson l'.:r.:ira dos Santos 0 !\lunge e :1 Filha do C<trms cu Waller Lima Jr. Olhos de Vampll - Walla -

Ro!.!<:no 0 Quatrilho

I'irbio Ban.:to Os Sete Sacramentos d e •('anudus - sc:\'cral Terra Estr:mgeira Walter Salks Jr Yndiu du Brasil- Sv l v io Back -

In production Arne Sucksdurff - r.:rnando Camar!.!os Baile Perfumm l o - l.irio F.:r r.:rra and l'aulo Caldas Bocage, o Triunfo do Amor Dplma l imongi lim Ccu de E strclas - Tala i\maral A Felicidade E . - s.:Y.:ral A Grande Noit:tda- D.:nov . dt: .

()I 1\' C:lfil 0 Manda rim - Jirlio Br.:ssant:

1\t:irio - lknnano Penna Pequeno Dicion:irio Amoroso - Sandra Wc:mcck 10

a Lei do Mais Forte (Pixote, the Law of the Fittest), it will be directed by Jose Joffily, who made A Maldit;iio de Sanpaku (Sanpa ku 's Malediction). This is the same author of A Infancia dos Mortos (The Childhood of the . Dead) on whichBabenco's work was based. Another source foi the story was Pixote Nunca Mais (Pixote Never More), the book written by Cida Venancio da Silva, the widow of the accidental artist. The story starts the day Fernando Ramos da Silva, the youngster who played Pixote, then 19, is killed after a petty theft, while being chased by cops. While eluding his pursuers, he wanders through downtown Sao Paulo seeing his whole, short life in his mind's eye. Ramos da Silva, after the movie, had a chance to work for Globo Network in a soap opera but was fired after proving himself not to be sufficiently disciplined for network TV.· razilian film has had some hard times lately. Some of the films recently released, as Sergio Rezende's Lamarca, about a real-life Army captain converted into guerrilla leader, had to wait for years before they could get money to be made and distributed. Right now, there are dozens of films which were concluded but don't have resources to be commercially released. The 80's, the so-called lost decade, pro duced hundreds of closed movie theaters. Attendance at theaters went from 250 mil lion a year in the 70's to 100 million last year. Today.,Brazil has 1,250 movie screens for a population of almost 160 million. In the US many new releases open in more than

bution company created in 1969. The situation got so bad that the 25th Brasilia Film J::estival had to be postponed for lack of entries, and the traditional Gramado Film Festival had to become Pan-Ameri can in order to survive. Political freedom hasn't trans lated into a better movie output in Brazil. Au contraire. When the mili tary took the power in 1964, the movie industry was going through a time of creative plenty. In fact, a Brazilian film, 0 Pagador de

Promessas (The Payer of Vows) by Anselmo Duarte, h a d won the Golden Palm at the 1962 Cannes Festival. Ruy Guerra's Os Cafa jestes (The Scoundrels) (1962) be came a huge box office success and his film Os Fuzis (The Rifles) won accolades at the Berlin Film Festi val. Os Cafajestes also made his tory for being the first national movie to show a woman with fron tal nudity. NormaBengell, the star of the film caused a stir, by expos ing herself at a Cabo Frio's (Rio) . beach and the pol.ice confiscated the movie iri the theaters as soon as it was released. The morals of the time wouldn'tallow a naked woman running from a rascal on a deserted beach to be shown. But during the shooting, the actress was bothered by offiCers from a nearby Navy installation, who took turns in a

double this number of screens.

helicopter to watch the actress per- .

Mexico has double the per capita screen count of Brazil. The final blow to the film industry was given by impeached ex-Presi dent Fernando Collor de Mello, who on March 16, 1990, signed a decree dissolving Embrafilme, the state financing and distri-

forming. Bengell later recalled those times saying, "The censorship of the film was a warning of things to come. Two years later [the military takeover of 1964] the women from NEWS from BRAZIL- APRIL 1995

the . TFP (Tradition, Family and Property, a ultra conservative

tua1 confronting the country's military take over. The work was the story of Paulo, an

Gerais they told me that I would be

capital of a ficticious country just taken over by

movement) protested and in Minas

intellectual militant, living in Eldorado, the

a political coup. Until today the film has been

expelled with sticks if I ever dared to take a trip there." The victory of 0 Pagador de Promessas in Cannes wasn't with

open to various interpretations. As expected,

the film, despite being honored by the critics in Cannes, was prohibited in Brazil for some time

out controversy. The film competed

by the censors.

When finally released,

that year with American Otto

Terra em Transe

Preminger's Advise and Consent,

didn't achieve the popularity that Glauber had

L 'Ec/isse, Spaniard Luis Buiiuel's The Exterminating Angel, and French Robert Bresson's The Trial of Joan of Arc. Duarte, a former

audience response, the film became an impor tant landmark in the country's cultural history.

Italian Micheangelo Antonioni's

wished for. In spite of a generally lukewarm

"The response to this pivotal work," wrote Ismail Xavier in his b o ok Alegorias do

leading man and not an intellec

Subdesenvolvimento (Allegories of the Under development), "would define basic lines of pro

tual, was despised by his peers in

Brazil. Fran�ois Truffaut (Jules and Jim, among others), the president of that year's jury was a fan of

duction at the end of the 60's in movies, theater, and popular music." It's rumored that the direc tor, in order to achieve the appropriate effect

who decided in favor ofO Pagador

rector to get drunk.

cinema novo and he was the one

required everyone except the photography di as Rocha a genius? "Crazy, would

when there was a tie among the

jurors. Filmmaker Paulo Cesar Sarraceni says that Truffaut made a

be a better definition," say some critics. The filmmaker used to in-

mistake believing that this film was

sert his own commentaries into the story while

It was at this time that Glauber

after the scene in which dictator Diaz was crowned by Paulo (actor Jardel Filho), Glauber began to scream, "Go, Jardel, kill this ruling class, the country's elite, responsible for the

shooting. In

re presentative of cinema novo.

Rocha's talent became recognized by the Europeans especially after the 1963 release of Deus e o Diabo

Terra em Transe, for example,

people's misery. Now, take this crown, symbol

na Terra do Sol (God and the Devil in the Land of the Sun). This, his

of imperialism and smash in on the floor. Ac

second movie, is described at the

tors in the scene screamed "no, no", but it was

New York Museum of Modem Art as one of the best films ever. His 1967 Terra em Transe (Land in

too late. The replica of the Brazilian imperial

crown was already in pieces. Writer Antonio Calmon, who was then a continuity person on

an allegory for South

the film, was the one who recalled this story

America, is considered his best

recently to a reporter of Rio's daily Jornal do

Agony),

work by Brazilian critics.

Brasil.

In the '60's, thanks to all this

outburst of creativity the until-then backward Brazilian cinema gained a world-wide avant-garde reputa

tion. Rocha, with his original and

violent cinematic language, would •..,,._,* ..,'"' become the main spokesman for cinema novo, the richest period of

the Brazilian cinematography. Af ter Terra em Transe, harassed by

the military government, he went

into European exile, then to Cuba, and finally the United States. How ever, after returning to Brazil where he died in 1981, he was scorned by

the left for having become cozy with the military regime.

Glauber Rocha was the creator

of the often-mentioned principle, "a camera in hand and an idea in

•

mind".For him the filmmaker func

tioned as a pamphleteer and Terra

em Transe was used to express the

anguish of the Brazilian intellecNEWS from BRAZIL- APRIL 1995

Glauber Rocha, himself, wrote in Revolup1o doCinema Novo (TheRevo

children would have to sell cocaine instead of peanuts to

lution of Cinema Novo), published in 1981: "We don't want Eisenstein, Rosselini, Bergman, Fellini, Ford,

survive. Everything was very

anybody. Our cinema is new not due to

innocent at that time." That's not what people thought of the movie at the time. Dos

our age... Our cinema is new because the Brazilian man is new and the Bra

for showing a sordid side to

Santos was harshly criticized

zilian problems are new and our light

Rio's glamorous face. Even

is new and so our films are born differ

the title was lambasted. "The

ently from those in Europe... The tech

temperature here was never

nique is haute couture, affectation for the bourgeoisie to have fun. In Brazil,

over 39 degrees," observed a

cinema novo is a question of truth and

police authority. And the film was prohibited by the censors

not photography. For us, the camera is

for some time.

eye over the world, the traveling is

Caca Diegues, who di

instrument of knowledge, the mon

rectedBye-ByeBrasi/in 1979,

tage is no demagoguery but punctua

andDiasMelhores Viriio (Bet

tion of our ambitious discourse about Brazil's human and social reality!"

ter Days Wi/J Come) more re

The 60's, as many scholars have

cently, talked about three revolutions in the modernBra zilian cinema. The first one happened in the sixties with a cinema of opinion. According to him,

ment.

by the Italian neorealism, shot his first

the movement known as cinema novo ended on December 13, 1968, the day general Arthur da Costa e Silva issued

The movies are self-consciously kitsch and their financing comes from Boca do Lixo, the red light district in

full length feature,Rio, 40 Graus (Rio,

Institutional Act No. 5, a presidential

downtown Sao Paulo, where the poor

104 Degrees). The filmmaker went to

decree dissolving the Congress, im

est movie distribution companies have

the streets with his camera, abandon

peaching politicians and imposing cen

their offices and warehouses. Matou a

ing the Hollywood-style-megaloma nia imposed by Vera Cruz, the studio

sorship on all media. The second revolution was due to the obscurantism of the military re

Familia e Foi ao Cinema (Ki/Jed the Family and Went to the Movies) by

gime. During that time films classi

this group.

fied as tropica/ist such as Joaquim Pedro de Andrade'sMacunaima(1969)

in the middle seventies mark the be

already noted, were the decade of the Brazilian movie. But the first sign that things were changing carne in 1955, when Nelson Pereira dos Santos, through a share system, and inspired

created in Sao Paulo at the end of the 40's. Dos Santos decided to show the drama of the poor children who sold peanuts at Zona Sui, the more affluent

Julio Bressane is another example of The first signs of political opening

were released. Analysts linked these films to current themes in music, the ater and fine arts. The Tropicalism

ginning of the third cinema revolu tion. At this time, Diegues says, "no

"If I had to remake, this film," the

revived the notion of the 1922 mod

phrenia that the authorial radica

filmmaker commented recently, "the

ernism movement which had advo

lization and the resistance solitude

cated Brazilianization, a

produced, there is a search for the

transformation of all for eign influences into national

catacombs exit through a cinema of dialogue with the "other", films inter

themes.

ested in what is outside ourselves ...

neighborhood in the South of Rio, using kids from the favela (shanty town).

body can take anymore the schizo

Macunaima, based on

Never before, throughout the history

Mario de Andrade's 1922

of theBrazilian cinema, our films were

novel of the same name,

in such harmony with their public,

became the most represen tative work of this phase, telling the magical story of

even supplanting European and Ameri can hits." Films produced during this Golden

an Indian who migrates to

era include Bruno Barreto's interna

the big city.

tional hit Dona Flor e Seus Dois

Parallel to Tropicalism is another group of film makers who call themselves

Afaridos (Dona F/or and Her Two Husbands) (1976); Carlos Diegues's Chica da Silva (1976) and Bye-Bye

Marginal Cinema and who

Brasil (1979); HectorBabenco'sLucio

are sometimes pejorativelly

Fli1vio, oPassageiro daAgonia (Lucio

labeled as udigrudi (a play

Flavio, thePassenger of Agony)(l977)

on the word underground ).

and Pixote: a Lei do Mais Fraco

Rogerio Sganzerla's 0 Bandido da Luz Verme/ha

Joaquim Pedro de Andrade's Guerra

(Pixote: the Law of Weakest)(l980);

(The Red Light Bandit)

Conjugal (Connubial War)

(1975);

(1968) is the most represen

Arnaldo Jabor's Eu Te Amo

(I Love

tative work of this move-

You)

(1980); Tizuca Yamazaki's NEWS from BRAZIL· APRIL 1995

Gaijin, Ca minhos da Liberdade (Gaijin, Freedom's Roads); and Leo Hirszman's Eles Niio Usam Black-Tie (They Don't Wear Black-Tie) (1981).

Hollywood action HARRIET ROBBINS

According to Diegues, the Brazil ian cinema's lost decade began in 1983 because the precarious national economy reduced the number of film

The strength of Brazil's new currency, the real, aided by the continued steady growth of the country's economy after years of chaos, has given the Brazilian's attending the 1995 American Film Market a tremendous increase in buying capacity. Attendance at Brazilian cinemas is up, the number of new screens has been growing, and the new pay-TV market with services from Warner Brothers and Columbia TriStar TV is the hottest ticket in town. Starting off with a bang, Brazilian art-house specialist distributor Europa Filmes picked up CoriEntertainment s MonaMust Die just 15 minutes after the market opened its doors on February 23. Looke Filmes had pre-bought French director Bertrand Tavenier's next project, Capitaine Conan as well as Beaumarchais from Le Studio Canal Plus. There were plenty of other deals during the hectic days at the AFM. Paris Filmes bought Summit's An gus; Top Tape picked up Moonstone's No Second Chance; Playart bought New Line's thriller Seven. Other films acquired by the Brazilians were Steal Big, Steal Little, Time

patrons and government support for the industry. The maverick filmmaker also blames his colleagues for not ad equately responding to the new elec tronic entertainment challenges, in cluding the invasion of the video-cas

sette and other new technologies. Murilo Salles's Nunca Fomos Tiio

Felizes (We've Never Been So Happy) (1983); Andre Klotzel's Marvada Carne (MeanFlesh)(1985); Eduardo Coutinho's Cabra Marcado paraMorrer (Fellow Marked to Die) are examples of good movies from this meager period. Only now, the cinema industry in Brazil is show

The cream

of the crop

Master, Tunnel Vision,

At the end of l '.1'.13.Rio· s daily 0 (i/oho consulted filmmakers and their O\\ n film critics to find out \\ hich

the German comedies Nobody Loves Me, Blue in the Face and the Butterfly Kiss.

Some of the pending deals are Samuel Goldwyn's The Lost City and Carolco Pic tures' Showgirls. "ere their choice for the ten best filmmakers must learn to Brazilians also used their Hollywood Bnvilian moYies of all times. Here is cooperate and to end "the time to strike some co-production and cothe result. Third World paranoid sca financing deals or to fine-tune earlier ar pegoating of outside influ rangements. Columbia TriStar Pictures In Terra £'111 Trm1se (Land in .-!gon_1) ences." He concludes, "In ternational, for example, is co-financing by Gl:iuberRocha -1%7 Serene Productions/Skylights Cinema's other places of the world Tie/a. The $4.2 million movie based on a 1'ixote. a I.ei do .\!ais Fraco and even here, it's been Jorge Amado book stars Brazilian actress (1'ixote) by Hector Babenco - I '.IXO filmed a lot and with qual Sonia Braga and it is the first time that a US Toda .\'uc/e;: ,\'erci Castigwla (.Ill ity in circumstances less ad major studio has taken an equity stake in a .\ udity ll'tii/Je J>unt.,fled) by Arnaldo vantageous than the ones in Brazilian production. Part of the budget Jabor - 1972 which we live today ... The will be covered by Brazilian state funds (} iJwulido t!a I.u;: l'er111ellw (llle cinema made in Brazil, like and private money raised through the Bra Red l.ight /3afl(/it) by Rogcrio the country itself, hasn't zilian stock exchange. The film is sched Sgant.erla I '.16X ended and it will never uled to start production in July. (} I !o111etn do .\/lfltllik (The ,'-,'put end." Serene/Skylight is also developing a nik .I !ml) by Carlos Manga - 1'.159 comedy set in the world of Brazilian rodeo, Brazil owes its first Buena Sorte (Good Luck). Scheduled for /�1·e-bye JJrazt! by Cad Diegucs movie theater and its first production in August, the $1.8 million 1'.17'.1 movie camera to two French project directed by Tania Lamarca stars Tudo /Jem Wl'£'1:\·thing 's OK) by brothers. The first Brazil Brazilian TV actor Marcos Palmeira. The Arnaldo Jabor I ')7� ian movie session happened Oboe's Call, a p r o j e c t by Clau dio !Jeus e o /)iaho na Terra do Sol onAugust7, 1896.0ne year McDowell' who will be directing his own ( ( iud and the JJeril i11 the !.and t!lthe later Pascoal Segreto, one script, is another movie beginning produc Sutlj by GlauberRocha - I %3 of the brothers had started tion in September, with a possibility of a Rio .JO <iraus (Rio 1 O.J Degrees) to show films in SaHio das co-production with Spain's Sogepaq. bY NC!son Pereira dos Santos 1955 Novidades, at rua do Ouvi Brazilians were also present at Loca . i .1/eia-.\'oite Le1·arei Tua .!l111a tions '95, for the first time ever with their dor, 141, in R i o . T he own stand. Even though the country has (.It .\!idnight 1'1/Take l'our .s·oul) by Lumiere brothers created had its share of international movies shot Jose Mojica Marins I %2 the Cinematographe i n there At Play in the Fields of the Lord 18955 and the first movie (1991), Moon Over Parador (1988), Mis screening happened in New sion (1986) and The E meraldF orest(l985) York City in 1896. In June are some of the most recent examples- Brazilian officials wish to 1898, Afonso Segreto brought a movie draw more attention to the country's lush nature and excellent camera from France to Brazil. He be facilities. In addition to low wages, and an expedited permit process, came Brazil's first filmmaker, record Brazil has about 25 sound stages, most of them on the axis Rio-Sao ing scenes of Guanabara Bay while Paulo. "And there's nothing you can compare to the Amazon," still on board the Bresil, the ship which observes Brazil's deputy counsel general in Los Angeles, Michael Gepp. brought him from France. ing signs of a fourth revolu tion. Diegues believes that

NEWS from BRAZIL- APRIL 1995

In 1906, Antonio Leal, a Portuguese immi grant, would release the first Brazilian feature film,Os Estranguladores (The Stranglers). In 1911, as now, domestic comedies and detective stories 1 weren't able to compete with foreign productions and the new Brazilian film industry appeared still born. Filmmakers had to shoot made-to-order docu mentaries to survive. A landmark film in the incipient Brazilian movie industry was Limite (Limit). The legendary avant-garde work made by Mario Peixoto, who hadn't finished any other project, was praised by Russian movie greats Eisenstein and Pudovkin. This Brazilian classic was seen for the first time by a select group of

Cariocas

(Rio residents) in May 1931 and a

disturbance broke out at that session, between promoters of silent movies, and people who were for talkies. This controversy transformed the film which deals with the pas sage of time and the human condition into a myth. Before the 50's there were so very few screenings of Limite, that until the 60's some people swore that the film didn't exist. Today, the movie can be seen on video, but it is still has the reputation of being very mysterious. A Brazilian cinema patron Humbcrto Mauro, from Cataguases (Minas Gerais), was responsible for what was called the Cataguases Cycle. Mauro was a combination author, writer, producer, director, decorator, lighting technician, cameraman, actor, and used his family as performers. His most famous work is Ganga Bntta (Rough Gangue) (193 3 ), a film that he directed in Rio and whose sound track was a record. Ganga Bruta has just been shown at the Berlin Film Festival as part of the Films of the Century retrospective and Riofilme has promised to release the film in videocassette soon. he same year of Ganga Bruta's release, Cincdia, created in

1930 by Ademar Gonzaga, produced the first Carmen Miranda

movie, A Voz do Carnaval (The Voice of Carnava/). That

introduced the now-familiar

chanchada, a slapstick routine often

filled with musical numbers that would dominate the Brazilian movie scene until the end of the 50s. Most of these very popular and low-cost movies were made in Rio's Atlantida studio, started in 1941. Watson Macedo and Carlos Manga are two of the most famous directors of this genre whose biggest stars were Oscarito, Grande Otelo, Anselmo Duarte, Jose Lewgoy, Eliana, Renata Fronzi and Sonia Mamcd. Macedo's Aviso aos Navegantes (Warning to the Sea Voyagers) and Manga'sNem Sansiio Nem Dalila (Neither Sansom Nor Delilah) (1954) arc from this period. The chanchada had

very predictable fornmla: boy meets girl

(Anselmo Duarte and Eliana), they have two friends (comedians Oscarito and Grande O telo), a villain (Lewgoy) endangers the har mony of the group, but at the end laughter and love win. From the 63 movies produced by Atlantida from 1941 to 1962 only 33 titles (six are dramas) have survived time, fires and carelessness. In 1975, Carlos Manga got together with Silvio de Abreu to prepareAssim Era aAtlantida (This WasAtldntida), a collection of excerpts from the 27 chanchadas produced by that studio since 1947. The pornochanchada with its softcore sex from the 70's gave way to the explicit sex in the 80's. This new genre succeeded in bringing new patrons to the cinema, at least until more daring, and technically sophisticated pornography from Hol lywood took over the scene and relegated this kind of entertainment to the VCR. The Vera Cruz Film Company was created in Sao Paulo in 1949 with the intention of making movies of international quality. The studio direc tors invited back from England the internationally 14

NEWS from BRAZIL- APRIL 1995

famous filmmaker Alberto Cavalcanti. After a series of disagreements with the owners of Vera Cruz, however, he went back to Europe convinced that "no one is a prophet in his own country". Lima Barreto was responsible for Brazil's most famous movie during this period, 0 Cangaceiro (I'he Brigand) (1953). Barreto, even though cited in foreign encyclope dias as one of the most illustrious Brazilian directors has made only one other movie afterO Cangaceiro,A Prime ira Missa (Fhe First Mass) (1961) a public and critical flop. he return to democracy allowed the presentation of themes which were formerly taboo. That's what Roberto Farias did with Pra Frente Brasil (Forward, Brazil), for the first time exposing the torture which occurred during the military regime. Silvio Back, with Radio Auri verde (Golden-green Radio) criticized the Brazilian army's participation in World War II and Silvio Tendler, in the documentary Jango, told the story of the leftist President toppled by the military in 1964. Since the demise of Em brafilme, some regional in stitutions as Banespa (Bank of the State of Sao Paulo), Brasilia's Polo de Cinema e Video, and Riofilme having been trying to fill in the fi nancing gaps. Polo de Cin ema, for example, provided the support whichenableddos Santos's A Terceira Margem do Rio, to be made. Now it isn't financing but offers its facilities and equipment to filmmakers. Last year, Banespa has helped with the financing of 23 new projects. Despite the low cost of the new movies being made - generally less than $1 million - and the willingness to experiment with creative financing, money is scarce. A new law giving tax in centives to companies who invest in films has not pro vided a windfall for filmmak ers because few businesses are willing to contribute to these ventures. Many produc ers have been resorting to merchandising, a fairly com mon practice in Hollywood, to pay for their films. In the just-released Carlota Joa

standard for the industry. Prospective investors have re ceived a brochure with the following invitation: "We are putting at some companies disposal four shares of mer chandising with a value of $35,000 each. Each share gives the sponsor the right to insert its product in one scene which will be minutely discussed with our script writers. We are sure your product will shine on the screen." Not only filmmakers are betting on Brazilian movies again. Some American movie theater chains like AMC and Cinemark are seriously considering building or leasing new theaters in Brazil in addition to some 15 already in place owned by Fox and United Cinemas International. In Rio and Sao Paulo, Brazilian exhibitors are in the process of building more movie houses. Rio's Grupo Severiano Ribeiro promises a 40 % increase in the number of its screens by the end of the next year, raising its outlets to 140. And Grupo Sui Paulista intends to double its 60 screens during the same period. Both companies are look ing for foreign partnerships. •

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quina, Imperatriz do Brazil, for example, there's a scene in which Emperor Dom Joao VI, penniless, decides to cre ate the Banco do Brasil, not knowing that he was starting the bank which would finance the movie in which he is per forming. Werneck's approach for her Pequeno Diciona rio Amoroso should become the NEWS from BRAZIL ·APRIL 1995

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magazines cover the �ther areas. Third: Brazil is a very seductive country. I sus pect that a lot of your readers areJleople who have been seduced from afar and want to visit if they have not alrea�y done so. There is so much about Brazil to be seduced by. Many people understand �at there is a large difference between reality and the seduction. For those who con sider themselves Brasileiros de corafiio and have Brazil as a second homeland, your magazine IS a balanc�d pict�e that will prevent shock and d1sappomtment when they do visit. I would like to further suggest that when they listen to Ma�ia Bethania, Simone Alcione, Tom Job1m, plus hun dreds �f others, and they feel homesick for a country they have never been to, they just might understand the word saudade which we usually think of as untransiatable. Keep up the good work, however a smile here or there won't dam age circulation. Armand Caputi San FranciSco, California

*' ·t�CJ31 "��·o·lr:�� e r�; ; assport who is of Caribbean Latin-American (Do I am a

minican) nationality. I am also the au thor of a race relations handbook which has been used at the University ofMichi gan. I am proud of my African ancestry, but I refuse to submit to some all inclu sive racial label. We Dominicans are Andalusian Spanish, Indian and Afri can and like you, we have used a van ety of c�tegones to describe our people. I agree With most of the assessments given in the article "What Black Power?" (News From Brazil, March 1995). However, I was horrified that you insist on using US style Black and White racial categories. Are yo_u telh�g us that Brazil has now distilled 1ts myriad of physical types into two "races"? If this is the way Brazil is going, your problem-solvi.pg will be di�ap pointing indeed . Rac1al dichotomiza tion has resulted in some matenal gams for persons labeled as "Blacks" in the US but many of those "Blacks" are no clo�er to the American mainstream than before. Moreover, persons the Ameri cans think are "free" from African an cestry ("White") can immigrate . to the US (often from Brazil) and ass1m1late instantly. . The ironic tl!ing is that, here m the US, people are finally �omi_ng to te�s with the system of rac1al dichotomiza tion and a great number of people (many of who were formerly self-designating themselves as "Black" or "White") are simply refusing to be forced to "choose sides". [There is an excel.l�nt cover article on this in a recent ed1tlon of the US news magazine Newsweek] If you are willing to sacrifice the soul of your country to play some "racial game" to the delight of racial purists, you are in for about a hundred years of grief . Dealing with racism is simple: (a) deal with people with regard to �ent and not with regard to color; (b) elimi nate the social benefits attached to "pure whiteness". Dr. William Javier Nelson, Plr.D. Raleiglr, North Carolina

..."'-1'fl:!!ll*lit�#I·!�[C

t•fi!1�1•�1•J:t:J•W

I am a Brazilian livmg m the US for several years and News from Br:azil is truly enjoyed by �e, my fam1ly and friends. This magazme has filled the need for a publication here sho�mg a balanced yet critical view of Braz1l today. Reading Rodolfo Espinoza's article "Never So Good" (News from Brazi(, March 1995) I couldn't help feelmg op�l mistic aoain about the future of Braz1l. Howeve , my happy mood was overshad owed with a concern as I read another article by Emerson Luis.(''Danger zone' ) How long the population . B:t larg.e w1H have to wait to fully participate m this

�

price is un eatable) e continuem com

este excelente trabalho.

Rozemary Sabino San Francisco, California

jll�l·�

3#1�1•111:11�··�-�

I had the opportunity to rea News from Brazil and I am very interested in receiving it here in Brazil. Could you please send me instructions regarding payment. Should I send it in cash to th� US? Or is there a place here m Brazil where could make my subscription? Si11wne R. Sp inelli Sdo Paulo, Brazil

:l;t•t'il�#•];��3 n my su scnphon to

Please exte

News from Braz{l for fiv.e years. The

music from Braz1l (Ivan Lms, .et al) and your magazine have made a tnp to Bra zil a certainty. Thank you Dr. Leo Pirojnikoff Cltatswortlt, Califomia

ff=!(\�'!f!��N�e

scontraida manhosa, interessante e foge de ser v � iculo de doutrinas estatizantes ou misticas. Haja fama. To incluindo uma minha (BrasNews) e pretendo recomen dar a News from BraziI a nossos lettores. J. Ile11ry Pltillips Austill, Texas STIRRING UP THE POT

Love your magazine. Your advo cacy forth� .underclass.is much needed in the Braz1han discussion. Please con tinue to advocate free markets, disman tling of statism and exposing official corruption. Ross Rotle11 !1Jamaro11eck, New York

novo ciclo de crescimento?

With present legislators under FHC's administration approving a � 13,000 monthly salary to themselves wh1le vetoing the minimum wage mcrea.se t� a mere $115(!) it's hard to believe 1t Will. soon happen. It's this and other econom1c social disparities that keep, to a great extent thousands of Brazilians living abroad... Let's hope the new Brazil described by Espinoza will become a more inclusive one! Enclosed IS the renewal of

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Twice a year Brazilian diplomats get promotion that should give them better _,_,.,_,,, ... posts and improved salaries during a July and Decetnt>c:ti1 ritua l produced by ltamaraty, the Brazilian Foreign try. Brazil has 852 career diplomats serving mestically and in foreign countries. However, July not everybody in the lower echelons expecting good news. There is a pool of names from which the new ambassa�(!l _!]i&" ters, consuls, and secretaries will Promotion Commission of ltamaraty has i:l\.1\,..,�.�,� names to its so-called Access Personnel in January. Being on the list is a necessary step for any promotion. The diplomatic career ladder has Slx:-steDii;t,\.JJJ: the top is the ambassador or minister of a post rarely achieved before the age of bottom is the third secretary, a starting diplomats just graduated from Instituto (the two-year school for educating mats) and who has had a six-month foreign land. Rio Branco's students are recruited country through a battery of tests that candidates' proficiency in Portuguese. ...;-�J...._,.., English. They haYe to be at least 20 to school. Those who pass the first moted to a second phase of physical exams. After clearing these hulrdl(:s.:th�� candidate still has a last series of such as politics and international �.rf;.;,;,�� It could take seven years for a third !:l'!C':rl'!t.::�nt be promoted to second secretary if the only .......,. "'"" rion was length of service. A promotion second to first secretary could take years. At this pace, a diplomat would �-��'fi'!!..'��M when he/she achieves the first .,.,r. .....�ru finally starts to be considered for the sonnet pool. The next step is colllruiet<>r also the last rank a diplomat can on time of service. When a counselor te�lch1es he cannot be promoted anymore holed. At the age of 62, a sec:on�1-clas:SJ}l�.st�l� quasi-ambassador is also shelved.

b�-;�ll��[iiiJ

_ _ __

NEWS from BRAZIL· APRIL 1995

ented and well-connected-powerful god

ncr which deals more with paper than with people.

fathers help- can become ambassador at age -l2 and have a maximum of 15 years to enjoy this post. At 65, however, the diplo

a Brasilia diplomat. Flattery is so rooted in the professional tradition that many overseas diplomats take their vacations in Brazil during the July or

Hand-kissing has always been the first step for promotion," commented

matic career ends. This is the compulso rily age of retirement. This process can be

December promotion periods to aid their own candidacies.

avoided by Presidential cronies having no diplomatic education or experience who

or reminders. One of those in line says contemptously that, "Whoever lives outside the country makes sure to send letters written with a fountain pen

can get plum positions in places like

on first rate paper."

Lisbon, Paris, London or Washington.

Those who can't go make sure they are remembered through little gifts

Among those with good chance of promotion are counselor Barbara

To go from last in line to leader of the

Mussi, second class Minister Roberto Soares-de-Oliveira and second secre

pack, diplomats should be treated equally and their progress should be based solely

tary Agemar de Mendon<;a Santos. All of them have been very visible. Santos has been nominated to assist Minister Pele in the Extraordinary

on merit, according to the official rules.

Ministry of Sports. Soares-de-Oliveira who used to be consul general in Buenos Aires,

But in the professional nitty-gritty, pro motions are characterized as following

Argentina, is working now with vice-president Marco Maciel. Mussi was

the rule, "Work doesn't promote anybody." Every Rio Branco alumnus soon learns

the one who discovered PC Farias (the man behind the corruption scheme in the Collar de Mello administration) in Bangkok, Thailand and cut his

that he or she will need to be at the right

passport in pieces to prevent another of his escapes.

place at the right time and, more than anything, know the right person. This, despite the recent speech of Chancellor Luiz Felipe Lampreia prom ising that from now on only an individual's merit \�ill be considered at the time of pro motion. ln theory, advancement in the Itamaraty is widely demo cratic. The Access Personnel list, for example, is based on curriculum, evaluation from bosses and a vote by every body except third secretar ies. The problem with this process is, only 20% of those with right to vote bother to cast their ballots believing that their votes don't count. The final decision of who makes the list belongs to two groups; the Promotion Com mittee and the Evaluation Council. Carlos Garcia, cabinet chief for Lampreia recog nizes that there arc some wrinkles to be ironed out, but he confesses that he still doesn't know how to avoid complaints. The most com mon is that favors and politi cal influence have a dispro portionate we ight in the ltamaraty's decisions. Oth ers point out that those work ing in more visible posts and not in a foreign country have a better chance for advancement. "Whoever works on the 6th floor of the Annex building in Brasilia," complained recently a diplomat, "hasn't a chance of being seen." There is a bureaucratic corNEWS from BRAZIL- APRIL 1995

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r 19

Taking on the world Don't laugh, You mayt soon be eating Brazilian fast food and wearing Brazilian jeans. After all, you are already wearing Brazilian shoes, cleaning your house with Brazilian brooms and drinking Marcus James, a Brazilian wine that has become the second most consumed wine in the US. In a bold move, a Brazilian chocolate franchise called Amor em Peda�os (Love in Bites) has opened a store in Miami and is doing brisk business. Other franchises are on the lookout.

CARLOS EMMANUEL PA FONSECA BARRETO

A country notorious for its contradictions is again making headlines with another curious ranking. Brazil is today the world's second-largest country in fast-food franchising. And it comes third in number of franchisers, trailing only the US and Canada. As for the number of franchised outlets Brazil is number four, behind the US, Canada, and France. Franchising began in the US in the 70's when return ing Vietnam vets, sick of taking orders and jobless wanted to begin their own businesses. Brazilians are coming back from a long war against inflation and economic stagnation. Privatized enterprises have dis missed thousands of employees who are ready to invest their indemnity capital. This section of the labor force accounts for 25% of the potential franchisees. Another 60% of Brazil's franchisees are women seeking for labor independence. The remaining 15% are business execu tives who want to leave their present jobs for economic independence. The franchising boom that started in 1990, quickly penetrated every section of Brazil's economy and changed its antiquated management practices. The political and economical security provided by the introduction of the Real currency in 1994 and the new frontiers created b y the Mercosul agreement, stimulated the once sleeping giant to decide in playing a major role in globalization. Young Brazilians going out at night with friends from CCAA, an English language course, put on an Amor Perfeito (Perfect Love) underwear, a pair of Zoomp jeans, some Boticario (apothecary) cologne, A Cia. dos Pes (The Foot Company) shoes, maybe a shirt from Yes Brazil, and go have dinner at Cafe Bistro Vienna. All of these brand names represent some of the numerous Brazilian franchise companies that soon might be domi nating youth world-wide with the same passion that dominates Brazilian youth. Nowadays, having estab lished themselves in some Latin American countries, Brazilian-based franchises like Localiza Rent a Car, are searching for market expansion. They are using the sensuous, and mutually· intelli gible Brazilian language in advertising which is charm ing Spanish speaking neighbors. Brazilian sweets, an other well known habit in this tropical culture, started reaching the US through Miami. An outlet from Amor em Peda�YOS (Love in Bites) opened a 538 ft.2 store in Miami Beach and it is a success, promising a big season NEWS from BRAZIL. APRIL 1995

for summer 1995. Brazilians are debating whether fran chising fits Brazil's culture of individuality, ingenuity and· creativity or is it a temporary escape from the 80's economic chaos. Numbers have shown that the quantity of franchise outlets grew about 45%, from 17,840 in '93 to 26,000 today. The business generated last year was close to$48 billion, which is 10% of Brazil's GNP (Gross National Product). Fast-food is considered the hot ticket for summer, with an average of 38 applicants awaiting every available franchise. Only 15% of the country's franchises are multina tionals. For Marcus Rizzo, a franchising investor, this demonstration of national entrepreneurship is not al ways good news. Says Rizzo, "We are the third in size but in quality we are still amateurs." The multinational franchisers sell know-how but Brazilians are still in the business of selling products. Changes in business prac tices are in the offing. Even a Franchise University, that provides a quickie MBA in Business Franchise, has been opened in Sao Paulo and Rio de Janeiro. Brazil has close to 160 million people but lacks professionals. Thanks to the franchising business, how ever, it is starting a process of education and training of its labor force. An average of 12 people are being trained by each franchise outlet on productivity, organization, and business ethics. Young entrepreneurs are appearing everywhere, in the megalopolis, smaller cities and towns, and setting up store chains everywhere. But to continue expanding, the Brazilian franchisers are going to need more audacity and adaptability. Seventy years ago, Singer Sewing Machine Co. started what now is recognized to be one of the first franchise operations by making local salesmen respon sible for the sale and servicing of the machines. Aristides Newton, from the Brazilian Association of Franchising, says that local franchisers must follow the example of their multinational predecessors. Foreigners are welcome in the Brazilian franchising business. McDonald's is the pioneer in the country, with most of its stores set up by the late 1980's. Today they have 125 stores with 15 years of operation. PepsiCo, a latecomer, in '91 had 58 Pizza Hut outlets throughout the country, and today they have 119 stores. PepsiCo has also opened Kentucky Fried Chicken outlets and plan several Taco Bells by the end of '95. In Rio de Janeiro or Sao Paulo people may choose any of the above or others like Domino's, Arby's, Long John Silver Sea food, and Dunkin' Donuts. From all foreign franchisers in the country, the "Midas touch" is said to be Subway. In tropical Brazil, where the beautiful body is essential to the culture, people have fallen in love with the health-food factor of Subway's menu which has been adapted even further to local tastes by including fruit-juices and a variety of whole-grain breads. Subway's first store accommodates 800 customers, and cost almost$ 3 million. The Ameri can chain launched the largest Subway sandwich shop in the world with 98 ft. of avenue frontage in the most prestigious economic corridor of Latin America, Sao Paulo's Avenida Paulista. The company claims to have a list of 500 prospective franchisees, a very positive factor for a newcomer. Another franchising idea appealing to Brazilians is the compact hotel chain, due to recent increases in tourism and business travel. These small hotels offer quality services and low prices. They operate like a fast food store where the rooms and prices are standardized. As Manoel Carlos Maia de Oliveira, corporate director of Engepasa, said , "We are introducing in the market the McDonald's of the hotel industry." Engepasa is a company from Santa Catarina state, which inaugurated NE'!'JS from

BRAZIL· APRIL 1995

its first hotel, Le Canard, located just 155 miles outside of that state's capital Florian6polis, a magnificent coastal region famous for its world surfing championship. Each hotel has 77 rooms and each room 215 ft.2. They intend to build 10 branches in the next two years. Hotelco's Axxion, another compact hotel chain from Sao Paulo, will build theirs with 64 rooms per facility and 180 fU per room. They plan to build their first four units by the end of 1995. The room prices for any of these hotels will average about $35 a day. After the initial investment, both companies plan to expand their chains throughout the country using the franchising system. Brazil has a tremendous tourism potential. The country has close to 4970 miles of coast with beautiful beaches and some of the most magnifi cent scenery on the planet. It is a shame that Brazil contributes a miserable 1% to an industry that world wide produces $3,3 trillions in revenues. Another chapter of the franchising story is car rentals which are as essential as accommodations for any plea sure or business trip. David Rockefeller, the legendary American billionaire, went to Brazil to participate in several conferences as guest speaker for the business community, but his activities in the country never went beyond that. Nowadays with Rockefeller & Co., di rected by David Rockefeller Junior, a $10 million in vestment has been approved to install 40 Car Rental franchises in several major Brazilian cities by the end of '95. Car Rental Co. is a joint-venture, 60% owned by Rockefeller & Co. and 40% by Brazilian investors. They have the master franchising rights in Latin America for Hertz, the world's largest rental car com pany. Beyond the initial 40 locations, others will be installed as franchises. It is the start of a major Latin American network. For Hertz, a 100% Ford Motor Co., this signifies their return to the Brazilian market after leaving the country in December 1993 after breaking a contract with the franchise operator. Car Rentals, utiliz ing Hertz know-how, is betting on customer service to conquer the Brazilian clientele and compete against big local names like Localiza, Avis and U nidas. While in Brazil franchise is a big business, in neigh boring Argentina it is still a novelty. Brazil has like the US and France, regulated the franchising business, giv ing security to investors. Argentina has not done so. Moreover, new franchises in Brazil start in big cities and move gradually to the interior along with their name recognition and urban cachet. In Argentina the process is reversed. Another important factor is funding. Banks around the globe like England's Barclay's, Citibank, Royal Bank of Canada, and Credit Lyonnais from France developed programs emphasizing Brazilian franchising clients. Also in Brazil there are several banks lending money to franchisees. Banco do Brasil created its BB-Franquia, a special line of credit with low interest rate for people interested in a franchise outlet. In Argentina it is differ ent. The local manager of Credit Lyonnais, Daniel Cortina, stated that "in Argentina the business of fran chising hasn't surpassed the primitive stage, the funds are available only to clients with secured lines of credit." A great majority of Argentinean bankers view franchis ing with skepticism. They believe that franchising is a vicious way to solve financial problems. Brazilians are specially ambitious to own their own businesses seeing independence as a security that suits perfectly the country's infrastructure and living stan dards. A Franchising business in Brazil needs capital ranging from $10,000 to $250'000 which is an amount quite easy for many Brazilians to acquire. There are local and foreign franchisers and a variety of products to choose from. • 21

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A· go wo Brazil's new President m linguist or philologist, but most respected sociologis with professorial experie and the US. And """'��'" the world liste

s tlf�·sitqaj'ion ended up al,icl,.O.l>:scu.re word to don't said. up being who lives in writer. Its root 'i]Asji:atiJfs!i•c�lxl>la]�,;;p.ttennRr1ne.m is not slang but the linguist, words a long life. "These ,;,• with Brasilia's . ,, , ,,.,., met with disdain b't!c:awse they sound lik.e

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NEWS from BRAZIL· APRIL 1995

NEWS from BRAZIL- APRIL 1995

but a tendency of the mar ket. 'T m in this project since November," he reveals. "We use Brazilian situations, and this is our program. But we need new things, new gim micks. we had to invest in young people, new actors, new authors. Only a young ster is able to write exactly how a young person be haves." But apparently there is another reason to get so much fresh talent together: they cost much cheaper. Globo, which normally likes to talk

glorious moment for the Brazilian nove/a (soap opera), Brazil's most exportable cultural prod uct after its music. The nove/as' formula they are always on prime time - seems to have lost much of its appeal. Except for Quatro por Quatro (Four by Four), the 7-PM Globo soap, nove/as have been a disappointment in all of the networks. Globo's two other offers of the genre, Jrmiios Coragem (Brothers Courage) andPatria Minha (Country ofMine), for example, despite all the hoopla involving their release, are get ting ratings much lower than their predecessor at the same time slot. Why this decline? Some experts have their theories. One reasoning is that people don't have the time and energy anymore to follow month after month the adventures and misfor-

pendent TV Plus also is not giving up after the failure of its latest attempt at elec tronic feuilleton. Their 74,5 Uma OndanoAr (74.5 -A Wave in the Air) was a fi asco at TV Bandeirantes and only didn't lose more money because i t was sold t o Portugal's RTP (Portuguese R a d i o and Television). Bandeirantes and TV Plus will try again, this time with a remake of an old hit, Uma -

Rosa com Amor (A Rose With Love). Globo is betting that its new 8 PM novela will dispel all recent misgivings about nove las. The story, A Pr6xima Vitima (The Next Vic tim), is being written by ex pert novelista Silvio de Abreu, 52. The new soap opera brings a mix of ro mance and plenty of mur ders. The novela starts with an anonymous call to busi nessman Paulo Soares, who, in despair, lives his office in the middle of a storm and starts looking for a taxi. He ends up being run over by a car and killed. Soares is just the first victim of a serial killer in

about its millionaire sets and salaries, this time is keeping quiet about money. Malha

yiio will have only two sets: the exercise academy for the inside scenes and a second one for the exteriors. The series is scheduled to last two years and will have alternating directors. It starts with Roberto Talma at the helm. The theme of the first week is the ethical prob lem of delation. After a scan dal in the Academy, one character has to decide whether to inform or not against a colleague. The show will have a fixed cast of 15 to 20 characters. The premiere of Malha9iiO happens in a less-than-

tunes of their heroes. Another opinion is that cable channels are offering a myriad of new choices and reducing the pool of free TV view ers as it has already done in Europe and the US. Still, the flops haven't discouraged those who believe in novelas. At SBT (Br�zilian Television System), As

Pupilas do Senhor Reitor (The Pupils of Mr. Director) rates were going downhill until the executives of that network decided to take drastic measures: they undressed some charac ters of the story based on a Portuguese prudish romance written in the 19th Century. The for mula worked once again. And SBT is already preparing the next in-house production, the remake of Sangue do Meu Sangue (Blood ofMy

Blood), a nove/a that was a hit in its first incarnation some years ago. Manchete, the other network, despite some monumental disasters in the soap field such as Amazonia, has just started the taping of Jorge Amado's Tocaia Grande (Big Ambush). lnde-

the loose. Who will be the next victim? And who is the assassin? Everybody is a suspect, and anybody could be the next victim. At the end, a good portion of the huge cast will have been decimated. Abreu and di rector Jorge Fernando have decided to maintain as a se cret the development of the story and they have already menaced to change the di rection of the novela if there's any leak. As customary, this prime-time novela will also have its sermon time. Some of the themes to be discussed though the caracters will be open marriage (Hetio and Helena are a swinger cou ple), homosexuality (Sandro and Jefferson are lovers), drugs (Lucas is a man trying to free himself from drugs ) and street kids (a million aire dedicates herself to save abandoned children). •

NEWS from BRAZIL ·APRIL 1995

Brazilian Notas SCOTT ADAMS Perhaps no movie has stirred our cultural soul quite like the primal touch of the 1959 Academy Award win ner, Black Orpheus. Now, 35 years later, Trio da Paz brings us a lasting tribute to that film and its impact throughout our western world. Black Orpheus (K.okopelli Records) fmds this talented trio (guitarist Romero Lu bambo, bassist Nilson Matta and drummer/percussionist Duduka da Fonseca) recreat in� not only the music from this landmark film, but reviv ing the spirit as well. Trio da Paz has translated the film's passion into a con temporary setting, developing the colorful excitement of the original into the subtle inter play that is the group's artistic signature. Black Orpheus gives us the music that gav us Bossa Nova: "A Feli cidade," "Manha de Car naval," "0 Nosso Amor," "Samba de Orfeu," and in sev eral cases, provides us with alternate versions of these songs to fully realize the emo tional depth of these timeless Brazilian classics.

best moments found in the movie. The fact that each member of Trio da Paz has his own successful career brings an added depth of qual ity to an already outstandin� recording project. Lubambo has become the gUitarist of choice for Brazilian recordings here, bassist Matta plays with saxophonist Gato Barbieri and drummer da Fonseca's credits are a virtual who's who of Brazilian record ings on both side of the equator. And that brings us to a final point: The movie, after all these years still holds a unique charm within its black and white, sub-titled boarders. It's a charm that Trio da Paz has success fully translated into the musical panorama of Black Orpheus. It's as satisfying as the original, only more. My advice? Rent the movie, and buy this CD. I can't believe my ears. When I close my eyes, Brazilian voice and his gentle guitar pull me back to another time, another place. Back to Rio de Janeiro, along Copacabana's Avenida Atlantica before both, that world famous beach and the boulevard that curves around it, were widened. Paulinho Garcia's soft

Maybe you've been there, making that long walk towards Aflloador from a mid-day churrasco at Mariu's, enJoying the sunset on the broad mosaic sidewalk at Ipanema, or better yet, stopping off for a cold one at the end of another perfect Brazilian afternoon. Jazzmineiro will do that to you, even if you've only dreamed of Brazil (and who hasn't at some

Take Antonio Carlos Jo bim's "A Felicidade," for ex

ample. As an instrumental, Lurnbambo' s gently reflective guitar sets the stage for guest soloist Herbie Mann's emo tion filled flute solo. The vo cal version finds Mau cha Adnet's gentle singing, draw ing on the original feeling cre ated by Marpessa Dawn in the film. Luis Bonfa's "Ma nha de Camaval" also receives dual interpretations. A jazzy duet pairs Adnet's from the favelas voice with Nilson Matta's eloquent upright bass. And a stirring samba paced by Lurnbambo's acoushc guitar clicks along with the instru mental version. The happy go-lucky setting of "0 Nosso Arnor" teams Mann's flute with Claudio Roditi's trum pet, providing a musical set ting that is illustrative of how Black Orpheus recreates the

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point?). His eloquent guitar play is perfect. There may be others with better technique or a stylish gimmick, but none exceed Paulinho's good taste and timing. And after all tim ing, in music and in life, ts everytlting. Paulinho Garcia carne to Chicago 14 years ago, leaving his hometown city of Bela Horizonte and a thriving mu sical career behind to pursue his dreams north of the equa tor. His evolution as a com poser and musician has been steady since those days, lead ing to this album, a debut re cording that is sure to put him on the map. J azzmineiro's musical beauty lies in its breadth of express ion. C o n s ider two songs penned by Milton Nas cimento. "Cravo e Canela" (Cinnamon & Clove) is ap propriately f o r c e f u l with Garcia's voice propelling the melody along, while his treat ment of "Maria, Maria" takes on a reverence not found in the composer's performances. Caetano Veloso's "Cora yao Vagabundo", "t'risteza" and Garcia's self-p e n ne d "Ponto d e Encontro", "Des pacito" and "Chorinho do Paulinho" all recall the musi cal style of a time gone by, right down to the placement of the microphones, creating an unmistakable warmth. Jazz mineiro is the real thing, to tally Brazilian, and just as is the case with Paulinho, under stated in its depth and musical grace. From Jazz Samba to the subtle reflection of his Bossas, you'll find what you're look ing for here. Paulinho Garcia's Jazzminei ro has, like a good cacha�a, been a long time in coming. And that's okay, because any thing worthwhile is worth waiting for. If you've been to Brazil, you know what I mean. And if you've never been there, here's your chance to let Paulinho Garcia take you on a personal tour. Just put this album on and close your eyes. You won't believe your ears. You can sample both of these albums 24 hours a day, and receive a free subscription to our newsletter by calhng The Brazilian Music Review Lis tener Line at 708 292-4545 .

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NEWS from BRAZIL- APRIL 1995

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APRIL 1995

:1ssunto cram scmprc as pcraltagcns do heroi As mulhcrcs sc riam muito simpatit.adas. falando que . . cspinho que pinica. de .. pequeno j:·l trat. ponta . c nunw pagclaJH;a. Rei l\:ago fctlllll d1scmso c m·isou que o hcroi era intcli�cnte Ncm bcm tc'c scis a nos dcram :'u.:ua num chocalho pra clc c �l\lacunaima princi piou falando como todos E pcdiu pra m;k que largassc da mandioca rala ndo na ce\ adcira c lcYassc elc passcar no mato. A m;k n:lo quis porquc n;lo podia largar da mandioca n:lo. l\lacu naima choramin�ou dia inteiro. Dc-noitc contiiiiiOU chorando. No oull o dia espcrou com o olho csqucrdo dormindo que a m:lc pri n Clpiassc o trabalho. Ent;lo pcdiu pra cia que largassc de tcccr o panciro de gua nnH:i-mcmbcca c lc'asse clc no malo passcar. A m;k n:lo quis porque n;lo podia largar o pam:iro n:lo. E pcdiu pr:l· nora. companheira de Jiguc que lcYassc o mcn1no. A companhcira de Jiguc era bcm mo.;a c chama\ a Sof:n:i. Foi sc apro.\imando rcssa biada porcm dcsta 'ctl\lacu naima ficou mnito quicto scm botar a m:1o na gra�a de ningucm. A mo.;a carrcgou o pi:i nas costas c foi ate o pc de aninga na bcira do rio. A :igua parara pra im cntar 11111 pontcio de go/0 nas rothas do ja,·ari. 0 Ionge csta\ a bonito com muitos biJ.:u;is c biguatingas :1\ oa nclo na cstrada clo furo. A mo�a botou Macunaima na p1:aia porem clc principiou chora mingando. que tinha muita formigat ... c pcdiu pra So far:!' que o lc,·assc ate o clcrramc do morro l:i dentro do mato. a mo�a fct.. Mas assun que clcitou o cur umim nas tiriricas. taj;'1s c trapo crabas da scrrapilhcira. elc botou corpo 1111111 :itimo c ficou um principc Iindo. Andaram por !: ' 1 muito. Quando Yoltaram pd maloca a mo�;a parccia muito fatigad:J de tanto carrcgar pi:i nas costas. Era que o hcroi tinha brincado muito com cia. Ncm bcm cia dcitou l\lacunaima na rcdc. Jiguc j:'1 chcg:n·a de pcscar de pu�;:·l c a companhcira mlo trabalhara nada. Jiguc cnquitilou c dcpois de catar os carrapatos 30

clcu nela muito. Sofar;i agiicntou a SO\ a scm falar 1u11 isto .I iguc n:lo clcsconfiou de nada e comc.;ou tran�;ando corda com fibra de cmau:i. N;1o \C que cncontrara rasto fresco de anta c queria pcgar o bicho na armadilha. Macunaima pccliu um pecla�;o de cmau;i pro mauo porcm J iguc fa lou que aquila n:1o era brinqucdo de crian.;a. 1\lacunaima principiou choranclo outra 'ct c a noite ficou bcm dificil clc passar pra toclos. No outro elia Jiguc lc'antou ccdo pra fatcr armadilha c cn\crgando o mcnino tristinho falou: - Bom-clia. cora�;:lot.inho dos outros. Porcm Macunaima fcchou-sc em copas carrancudo. - N:1o qucr falar comigo. e·.) - Estou de mal. - Por causa') Ent:lo Macunaima pccliu fibra de cnrauf1. Jiguc olhou pra clc com odio c mandou a companhcira arranjar fio pro mcnino. a mo.;a fet. Macunaima agraclcccu c foi pcdir pro pai-dc-tcrrciro que tran.;assc uma corda para clc c assoprassc bcm ncla funta�;a clc pctun1. Quando tudo csta\ a pronto Macunaima pccliu pra mac que dci,assc o cachiri fcnncntanclo c lc\·assc clc no mato passcar A Yclha n:lo podia por causa clo trabalho mas a companhcira de Jiguc mui sonsa fa lou pr;i sogra que .. cstm a :'1s ordcns... E foi no mato com o pi:1' nas costas. Quando o botou nos carurus c sororocas da scrrapilhcira. o pcqucno foi crescendo foi cre scendo c ,·irou principc lindo. Falou pr:1 Sofar:'! cspcrar tllll bocadinho que j{t Yoltm·a pra brincarcm c foi no bcbcdouro da anta annar um la.;o. Ncm bcm 'oltaram do passcio. tardinha. Jiguc j;\ chcga\ a tambem de prcndcr a annadilha no rasto cia anta. A companhcira n:lo trabalhara nacla. Jiguc ficou fulo c antes de catar os carrapatos batcu ncla muito. Mas Sofar:\ agiicntou a co.;a com pacicncia. No outro dia a arritiacla inda cstaYa acabando de trcpar nas :\n·orcs. Macunaima acordou todos. f:ucnclo 11111 bue mcdonho. que fosscm! que fosscm no bcbcdomo buscar a bicha que -clc cnpra!. .. Porem ningucm n;1o acrcditou c todos principiar:1111 o trabalho do dia. Macunaima ficou muito contrarindo c pcdiu pra Sofar:\ que desse uma chcg adi nh a no bcbcdouro so pra Ycr. A mo.;a fct. c Yoltou falando pra todos que de fato cstm·a no la�o uma anta nmito grande j;i morta. Toda a tribo foi buscar a bicha. matutando ·na intcligcncia do cunnnim. Quando Jiguc chcgou com a corda de curau:\ Y<llia. cncontrou todos tratanclo da ca�;a. ajudou. E quando foi pra rcpartir n;lo clcu ncm um pcda�;o clc carne pra Macunaima. so tripas. 0 hcroi jurou Yi11gan.;a. No outro dia pcdiu pra Sofar:i que lcYassc clc passcar c ficaram no mato ate a boca-da-noitc. Ncm bcm o menino tocou no folhi�o e 'iron nu111 principc fogoso. Brincaram. Dcpois de brincare111 Ires fcitas. correra111 mato fora f:ucndo festinhas 11111 pro outro. Dcpois clas fcstinhas de cotucar. fi1cra111 a das coccgas. dcpois se cntcrraram na arcia. dcpois sc qucimaram co111 fogo de palha. isso foram muitas festinhas. Macunaim:1 pcgou num tronco de copaiba c sc cscondcu por dctr:is cia pira11hcira. Qun11do Sofar:i Yeio corrc11do. clc dcu com o pau na cabc�a dcla. Fct. 11111a brecha que a 111o�a caiu torcc11do de riso aos pes dele. Pu:xou-o por uma pcrna. Macunai111a gcmia de gosto se agarrando 110 tronco gigantc. E11tao a mop abocanhou o dcdao do pe dele e engoliu. .

J\lacu11aima choranclo clc alcgria tatuou o corpo dcla co111 o sa11guc do pc. Dcpois rctcsou os ml1 s culos. sc crguc11do 1111111 trapctio de cipo c aos pulos ati ngiu 1111111 :itimo o �alho ntais alto da piranhc if.L Sofar;J trcpa' a atr:is. 0 ramo finmho 'cr�ou oscila11do com o peso do pri11cipc Qua 11clo a mo.;;a chcgou tambem no tope clcs bri11caram outra 'ct. balan ccalldo no ccu. Dcpois de bri11carcm Macu11aima qu1s fatcr uma fcsta em Sofar:i. Dobrou o corpo toclo 11a Yiolc11cia dum pll\:1o mas 11:lo podc continuar. galho quc brou e ambos dcspc11caram aos cmbokus ate sc csborra charcm no ch;1o. Quando o hcroi 'oltou cia sapituca procurou a mo.;a em rcdor. n:1o cst:n a. Ia sc cn:ucndo pra busc:i-Ia porem do galho bai\O em riba dele furou o silcncio o miaclo tcmi'cl cia su�;uarana. 0 hcroi sc estate lou clc meclo c fcchou os o I hos pra scr �omido scm 'cr. Ent:1o SC CSCIItOII IIIII (isinho e 1\lacunaima to111ou co111 uma gusparada no pcito. era· a mo.;a. l\lacumi111a princi piou atirando pcclras ncla c quando feria. Sofar:'1 gritm a de c:xcita.;;;1o tatuando o corpo dele cmbai:xo co111 o sanguc espirrado. Afinal uma pcdra lascou o canto da boca da mo�;a c mocu trcs dentes. Ela pulou do galho c .tuque' tombou scntacla na barri�a c do hcroi que a em oh cu �om o corpo todo. ui' ando de prate r. E brincaram mais outra Yez. J:i a c st r c l a P apaceia brilh a,· a no ccu quando a mo�a Yoltou parccc11do mui to faligada de tanto carrcgar pi:i nas costas. Porc111 Jiguc dcsconfiado seguira os clois no 111ato. e11:xcrgara a tralls fonn:u;':lo e o resto. Jiguc era muito bobo. T e \ c rai' a. Pcgou 1111111 rabo-dc-tatu e chcgou-o com ,.o11tadc na bunda do hcr6 i 0 bcrrciro foi tao imc11so que cncurtou o tamanh:lo da noite c 111uitos p:\ssaros cairam de susto 110 chao c se transfonnara111 em pcdra. Quando Jiguc n:lo podc 111ais surrar. M a cunai111a correu ate a capocira. masti gou rait de cardciro c 'oltou sao. Jiguc lcYOU Sofar;i pro pai dcla e dormiu folgado na rede. c

NEWS from BRAZIL. APRIL 1995

rel:u11pe:n·a nas gotinhas de chm a debulhando Itt/. feito milho. Macunaima chegou pcrto duma po�a. bcbcu :\gua de lama c Yomitou a carne. -Carne de minha perna! carne de minha pcrna' que o Curmpna 'inha gritando. - Que foi'> secundou a carne j:\ na po<;a. Macunaima ganhou os � bredos por outro Iado e es capou. Lcgua e meia adiante por detr:\s dum f o r migueiro cscutou uma ' 0 1 cantando assim: .. .. Acuti pit:\ canhcm ... lcntamcntc. Foi 1;\ e topou com a cotia farinhando mandioca mtm tipiti de jacitara. - Minha YO. d:\ aipim pra mim comer·.> - Sim. cotia fu. Deu aipim pro menino. pcrgun tando: - Que que 'oce est:\ fa;cndo na caatinga. mcu ncto? - Passeando. - Ah o que' - Passeando. ent:1o' Contou como enganara o Curmpira e deu uma grande gargalhada. A eolia olhou pra elc e resmungou: - Culumi f:v isso n:1o. mcu neto. culumi f:v isso n:1o... You tc igualar o corpo com o bestunto. Ent:1o pcgou na gamcla chcia de caldo em cncnado de aipim c jogou a Ia\ agem no pii1. Macunaima fastou sarapantado mas so consc guiu linar a cabe<;a. todo o resto do corpo sc molhou. 0 hcroi deu um cspirro c botou corpo. Foi dcscmpcnando crescendo fortificando c ficou do tamanho dum home taludo. Porcm a cabc�a n:1o molhada ficou pra scmpre rombuda c com carin ha' cnjoati' a de pi:1' . Macunaima agradcccu o fcito c frcchou cantando pro mocambo natiYo. A noitc 'inha bc;ourcnta enfiando as formigas na terra c tir:uido os mosquitos d':\gua. Fa;ia tun calor de ninho no ar. A 'clha tapanhumas cscutou a '01 do fllho no Ionge cin;ado c sc espantou: l\lacunaima aparcccu de cara amarrada e falou pra cia. - 1\1:1c. sonhei que cain meu dcnte. - lsso c mortc de paren32

te. comentou a \Ciha. - Bcm que sci. A scnhora d\ c mais uma Sol so. lsso mesmo porquc me pariu. No outro dia os manos foram pescar c ca�ar. a \Ciha foi no ro<;ado c Macunaima ficou so com a companhcira de Jigue. Ent:1o clc 'irou na fon11iga qucnqucm c mordcu Iriqui pra fa;cr fcsta ncla. Mas a mo<;a atirou a qucnqucm Ionge. Ent:1o Macunaima ,·irou num pc de umcum. A linda lriqui riu. colhcu as scmcntcs sc faccirou toda pintando a cara c os distinti\ os. Ficou lindissima. Ent:1o Macunaima. de gostoso. Yirou gcntc outr:t fcita c moron com a companhcira de Jigue. Quando os manos Yoltaram da ca<;a Jigue pcrcc b.cu a troca logo. porcm Maanapc falou pra clc que agora Macunaima cstm a homcm pra scmpre c troncudo Maanapc era fciticciro. Jigue ,·iu que a maloca esta\ a chcia de alimcntos. tinha pacoYa tinha milho tinha macachcira. tinha alu:\ c cachiri. tinha mapar:\s c camorins pcscados maracuj:l . michira ala abio sapota sapotilha. tinha passoca de Yiado c carne frcsca de cutiara. todos csscs comes c bcbcs bons ... Jigue confcriu que niio pagm·a a pcna brigar com o mano c dcixou a linda lriqui pra clc. Dcu 11111 suspiro eaton ,os carrapatos c donniu folgado na rcdc. No outro dia Macunaima dcpois de brincar ccdinho com a linda lriqui. saiu pra dar uma Yoltinha. Atrm·cssou o rcino cncantado da Pcdra Bonita em Pernambuco c quando cstm·a chcgando na cidadc de Santarcm topou com uma Yiada parida. - Essa en ca<;o! clc fez. E pcrscguiu a dada. Esta cscapuliu f:\cil mas o hcroi podc pcgar o .filhinho dcla que ncm nao andaYa quasc. sc cscondcu por dctr:\s duma carapanaitba c cotucando o ' iadinho fc.t. clc bcrrar. A Yiada ficou fcito louca. csbugalhou os olhos paron turtm cou c Ycio Yindo 'cio Yindo paron ali mcsmo dcfrontc chorando de amor. Ent:1o 0 hcroi ncchou a Yiada parida. Ela caiu cspcrncou 11111 bocado c ficou rija cstirada no ch:1o. 0 hcroi canton Yitoria. Chcgou pcrto da dada olhou que mais olhou c den 11111 grito. dcsmaiando. Tinha sido uma pc<;a do Anhanga... N:1o era dada nao. era a propria mac tapanhumas que Macunaima flcchara c csta,·a morta ali. toda <Jrranhada com os cspinhos das titaras c mandacarus do mato. Quando o hcroi ,·olton da sapituca foi chamar os m<Jnos c os tres chomndo muito p<1ssaram a noitc de guarda bcbcndo oloniti c comendo carima com pcixc. Madrugadinha pousaram o corpo da Yclha mmw rcdc c foram cntcrr:l-la por dcbaixo duma pcdra no Iugar chamado Pai da Tocandcira. Maanapc que era um catimbo;ciro de marca maior. foi que grm·ou o cpitMio. Jcjuaram o tempo que o prcccito mand<J\·a c Macunaima gaston o jcjum sc lamcntando hcroicamcntc. A barrig<J da morta foi inchando foi inchando c no fim das chuYas tinha Yirado num cerro macio. Ent<io Macunaima dcu a mao pra lriqui. lriqui dcu a mao pra Maanapc. Maanapc dcu a miio pra Jiguc c os quatro partiram por esse mundo.

Ci. !\'lac do Mato Uma fcita os quatro iam scguindo por mn caminho no malo c cst:n·am pcnando muito de seck. Ionge dos igapos c das lagoas. N;1o tinha ncm mcsmo umbu no bairro c Yci. a Sol. csfiap<�ndo por entre a folhagcm guasc<JYa scm parada o lombo dos andarcngos. SuaYam como numa pagclan<;a em

que todos tiYcssem besun tado o corpo com a;eitc de piqui:l. marc h:l\ am. De rcpcntc Macunaima paron riscando a noitc do sllcncio com 11111 gcsto intcnso de <Jlcrta. Os outros cstacaram. Niio sc cscut:n a nada porcm Macunaima sussurrou: - Tcm coisa. Dcixaram a linda lriqui sc cnfcitando scntada nas rai.t.cs duma samaitma c m·an<;aram cautelosos. J:i Vci cstm · a f<Jrta de tanto guascar o lombo dos Ires manos quando !Cgua c mcia adiantc Macunaima cscotciro topou com uma cunh:1 dormindo. Era Ci. M:1c do Malo. Logo ,·iu pclo peito dcstro seco dcla. que a mo<;a f:via pat1c dcssa tribo de mulhcrcs so.t.inh a s parando 1:\ nas praias da lagoa Espclho da Lua. coada pcla Nhamund:\. A cunha era linda com o corpo chupado pelos 'icios. colorido com gcnipapo. 0 hcroi se atirou por cima dcla pra brincar. Ci n :1 o qucria. Fez lan<;a d e flecha tridcntc cnquanto Macunai ma puxm·a da pagcit. Foi um pcga trcmcndo c por dcbaixo da copada r c b o :l\ am os bcrros dos briguentos dimi nuindo de mcdo os corpos dos passarinhos. 0 heroi apanha,·:t. Rcccbcra j:t' 11111 murro de f:vcr sanguc no nariz c Ulll lapo ru;tdo de txara no rabo. A icamiaba nao tinha ncm UJll arranh:1o zinho c cada gesto que fa;ia era mais sanguc no corpo do hcroi soltando bcrros formi dandos que diminuiam de mcdo os corpos dos passa rinhos. Afinal sc 'cndo nas amarclas porquc n:1o podia mcsmo com a icamiaba. o hcroi dcitou fugindo cha mando pclos manos: -Me acudam que sin:1o cu malo! me acudam que sin:1o cu mato! Os nwnos ,·icram c agar raram Ci. Maanapc tran�ou os bra<;os dcla por detrits cn quanto Jiguc com a mumcu !he dm a uma porrada no coco. E a icamiaba caiu scm auxilio nas samambaias da scrrapilhcira. Quando ficou bcm imo,·cl. Macunaima sc aproximou c brincou com a Mac do Malo. Vicram cnt:1o m uitas jmtd aias. muitas araras ycnnclhas tuins cori cas pcriquitos. muitos papaNEWS from BRAZIL· APRIL 1995

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ecife is Brazil's fourth biggest city and the capital of Pernambuco. The Venice of Brazil (a rather hopeful Brazilian comparison),Recife is a city of water and bridges with arrecifes (stone reefs) �ff shore. Its sister city Olinda was once the cap1tal of Dutch Brazil and today is a beautiful enclave of colonial buildings filled with artists, stu dents and bohemians. Amidst all the recent development Recife retains a rich traditional side, with some of Brazil's best folk art, including painting and sculpture, dance, music and festivals. It takes time to discover this side of the city, but it's well worth the effort. Recife is the port of entry for many flights from Europe and has recently been trying to broaden its tourist appeal. The main benefi ciary of these developments has been B?a Viagem, the Copacabana of Pernambuco. S1te of the well-to-do nightclubs, restaurants and most ofthe mid to expensive hotels, Boa Viagem has good beaches which are essential for es caping Recife's muggy heat. Howeve�, unl.ess you want to be right on the beach, Olmda 1s a cheaper and more interesting place to stay. History Recife developed in the 17th century as the port for the rich sugar plantations around Olinda, which was the seat of the cap taincy. With several rivers and offshore reefs, Recife proved to be an excellent port and beg!ln to outgrow Olinda. By the 17th century, Rec1fe and Olinda combined were the most prosper ous cities in Brazil, with the possible exception of Salvador (Bahia). The neighboring Indians had been subdued after brutal warfare, and the colonial aristocracy living in Olinda was rak ing in profits with its many sugar engenhos (mills). Naturally all the work was done by slaves. No European country had managed to grab a part of Brazil from thePortuguese until 1621, when the Dutch, who were active in the sugar trade and knew the lands of Brazil well, set up the Dutch West India Company to get the1r teeth into the Brazilian cake. A large fleet sailed in 162 4 and captured Bahia, but a huge Spanish-Portuguese militia of 1 2,000 men re captured the city the following year. Five years later the Dutch decided to try again, this time in Pernambuco. Recife was abandoned, the Dutch took the city and by 1640 they had control of a great chunk of the Northeast, from Maranhao to the Rio Sao Francisco. The Dutch had hoped the sugar planters wouldn't resist their rule, but to their dismay many Brazilian planters took up arms against the non-Catholics. In 165 4, after a series of battles around Recife, the Dutch fmally surren dered. This was the last European challenge to Portuguese Brazil. Recife prospered after the Dutch were ex pelled, but in sp�te of the <:ity's growing .eco nomic power, which had echpsed that ofOhnda, political {>OWer remained w1th the sugar plant ers in Ohnda and they refused to share it. In 1710 fighting began between thefilhos da terra (the sugar planters of Olinda) and the mascates (the Portuguese merchants ofRecife), the more recent immigrants. The Guerra dos Mascates (War of the Mascates), as it came to be known was a bloody regional feud betwee� different . sections of the ruling classes and nahve Brazil ians and immigrants. In the end, wi.th the h�lp of the Portuguese crown and the1r supenor -

NEw.> from BRAZIL· APRIL 1995

Recife and Olinda: two sides of tradition-rich Pernambuco. The first is the fourth biggest Brazilian city in population, the latter was the capital of Dutch Brazil. Recife is the economic center, Olinda the cultural heart. Both keep their old-time charm. economic resources, the mascates of Recife. gained considera?le political clout at the expense of Olinda, which began 1ts long, slow declme. . More dependent on the sugar economy than Rio or Silo Paulo, Rec1fe was eclipsed by these two centers as the sugar economy floundered throughout the 19th century. . . . Orientation- Recife is large, mod�rn and mo�e d1ff1Cult t<? nego�1ate than most cities in the Northeast. The c1ty center 1s a confusmg. rmxture of high-rise offict:s, colonial �hurches and OJ?Ul�r markets. Dunng the day, traffic and tounsts get lost m the maze o fwmdmg, one-w.ay streets. The heart of Recife containing the old section of town, ranges along the waterfront in Boa Vist� district, across the Rio Capibaribe to Santo Antonio district and then across to Ilha do Recife (Island of Recife). All are connected by bridges. . . v· Olinda is six km to the north over swamps and nvers while Boa 1agem is six km to the south. . . Museums & Galleries With such a long and Important h1story 1t s not surprising that Recife is loaded with churches and museums, but few are must-sees. The best museum Museu do Homem do Nordeste (Museum of the Northeast), is east of the city cei_Iter along Avenida 17 de Agosto. The . museum is divided into three sections: an anthropology section about .the people of the Northeast, a popular art. s�ction with so�e sup�rb typical ceramic figurines: and a pharmacy exhib1t about the regiOn's ncb herbal/ indigenous medicine. The Horto Zoobotfinico, with a zoo and botanical garden (both renovated in 1990), is in the same neighborhood. , . Old City- To see the old city start over atPraya daRepubhca where you 11 see the Teatro Santa Isabel (18 50) and th� Palacio do Govern� (1�41). Take a look at Igreja de Santo Antonio (17?3) m Praya. da Independenc1a and !}le� visit Catedral de Sao Pedro dos Clengos on Patio de Sao Pedro, an art1s�s hangout. There are many intimate restaurants, shops and bars her�, all w1th interesting local characters . On weekends there's often good muStc . . Walk down Rua Vidal de Negreiros to the Forte das 5 Pontas, wh10h was built by the Dutch in 1630, then rebuilt in 1677. I�side there's the Museu da Cidade which displays maps and photos of the city. Nearby! �t Praya Dom Vital is the daily Mercado de Silo Jose (market) and Basdtca de Nossa Senhora de Penha. The market used to be a major center for food and crafts from throughout Pernambuco, but a fire in 1989 has curtailed the volume of .

business. There are supposedly 500 different Carnaval blocos in Casa da Cultura de Recife - The Casa da Cultura de the Recife area and they come in all 'shakes' and colors. Recife, across the street from Recife Metro Station, once There are the traditional and well organized, the modern and served as a huge, colonial-style prison, but was decommis anarchical. There are samba schools there are afoxes, Indian sioned, renovated and redecorated in 197 5. It's now home to tribes and maracatus (African processions accompanied by many arts crafts and trinket shops, but it's certainly not percussion musicians), but the main dance of Carnava1 in everyone's cup of tea bePernambuco is the fre cause of its very touristy at netic frevo. mosphere. Good traditional The Funda9ao da Cul mus1c and dance shows are tura do Recife, which runs often performed outside the Carnaval, has on occasion Population: 1500 building, and the complex organized public frevo The an:lnpelago of Fernando Je Nownlw lies 1�5 km from /\to! das contains tourist information lessons for the uninitiated Rocas. 525 km from Recife and :<50 km from Natal. The 21 islands and phone offices. at the Patio de Sao Pedro. of the an:lnpelago coYer a totai mea of on)\ 2(, sq: km. In )')�'). Olaria de Brennand Along Boa Viagem Fernando de Noronha \\ as incorporated into the state of l'emamhuco. The Olaria, a ceramics fac beach, Carnaval groups With tis lT\ sial-dear \\ ater (a\ ·erage \\ ater temperature 2�°C} and tory and exhibition hall, is practice on weekends and rich marine lik. the archipelago is a hea\·en)\· retreat for under\\ ater set in thickly forested sur pleasures The main island is sparseh populated and tourism has as Carnaval approaches become the main snurce of income for locals. lt"s no\\ easier for roundings, a rare landscape they add trios e /etricos to independent tra,·ders to ,·isit. hut it is possible that organi;ed tours for suburban Recife and an the tomfoolery. The week \\ ill he made u1mpulsnry again if lllllnhers of ,·isitors pro\·e Jetri even rarer chance for travel before Camaval Sunday, meutal to t he euYironment of the archipelago. /\!though Femanuo de ers in the Northeast to see unofficial Camaval really Norouha is JJO\\ protected as a national marine park. the et"ti.:ds of what the Mata Atlantica starts. Several groups tourism on its ti·a gtk .:cos\ stem n.:eJ to he momtored ..:met"ulh. looked like several centu march through the city Bd"nrl' You Gn- The rainY season is limn Februan to Juh and the ries ago. The buildings and center each day and at islands are one time-to1le hour ahead ot" eastern llratll. Bring . exhibits in Olaria de Bren least one baile kicks off <!\"<!I"\ thing \Oll ll need for \Ollr sla\ (suntan lotion. insect repellent. nand are perhaps the most each evening -- time to magatines. snorkeling gear). There isn"t mu..:h to buY on the island bizarre highlight of the practice that frevo. anJ. in <IllY case. prices there are , ·en high due to the cost of Northeast - highly recom Big-time Carnaval transporting goods from the mainland. DefinitelY take sufficient mended. takes place from Satur Bratilian moneY \\ ith You. Don· t rei�· on changing money on History - The Irish for day to Tuesday, nonstop. Fernando Je Noronha. \\ here the e'dHIIl!!<! · nil - facilities are ,·irtualh · bears of the present owner, The big Carnaval groups and the rates are lo\\ . Francisco Brennand, arrived parade in wonderful cos Hi\tnn- - SeYeral hundred km off the coast from Natal the archi in Brazil in 1823 to work as !umes, singing and dane pelago'ot" \\ hat is today kno\\ n as Fernando de Noronha \\ as dist:o\· peasant farmers. The unrnar mg. ereJ bY the Spanish athe · nturer and ..:artographer Juan Je Ia Costa. The islands first appeared on the maps h� the 1wme ot" Quaresma rieddaughter of a sugar mag Things to buy -Reci (\\ hich means I ent ). J\ Portuguese e'\peJition under the command ot" nate took a liking to Bren fe is a good place to look Fernando de Noronha sighted the islands once again in ISO�. I le \\ as nand's father, who was em for Pernambuco's tradi a\\ arJeJ the islands ll\ his f1ienJ. King l>om Manod. It \\ as the first ployed by her father. She tional handicrafts, such as iuhenteJ capta1nn of the llratilian colomes. clay figurines, wood scul later inherited her father's lhe rslands. "ith their strategic posit ton bet\\ een I·:urope and the property, and, when she died, ptures, leather goods, and Ne\\ \\'odd. \\ ere coYeted ll\ the l"nghsh. French and the Dutch \\ ho willed her entire estate and articles made from wo came to ll<:CllP' the archipelago. But In 1557 the Polluguese man immense wealth to Brennand ven straw. Sources of aged to reclaim Fernando Je Noronha and build a fortress. /\II that Senior. such handicrafts are the remains todaY of the 1-:uropean battles is the ruins ot" the fortress of The house in which Fran shops and stalls in Casa Nossa Senhora dos Rem.:dins and a t"e\\ sunken ship\\ re..:ks. cisco Brennand was born in da Cultura de Recife, OYer the' ears. the islands \\ ere used as a militmv base ll\· the US/\ 1927 was imported.from En Patio de Sao Pedro, and Juring \\"\VII. a prison. \\<:ather station. air has.:· and most recently markets such as Mercado gland in prefabricated form. as a tourist resort. de Sao Jose or the Feira Brennand's father founded There has alreaJ\ been some misguided tamp.:ring '' ith the island a brickwork in 1917 and con de Arte e Artesanato, ecolog\ ·. The teju, a black and"hit.: Iitard. \Hts introduced to eat the tinued this business until which is a market held in island rats \\ hich had wme ashore "ith the Europeans in colonial 1945. Francisco left for . Jays. llnt"onunatdy. the teju prefers small birds and crab to rat. Boa Viagem during the France, where he studied art late afternoon and eve J\ struggle bet\\ een deYdopers and enYironmentalists oYer the and was influenced by Picas t"utme of the island \\ as resohed in I 'JXX \\ hen most ot" the ning on Saturday and Sun archipelago \\ as declared a l'arque Na.:ional Marinho (Marine Na so, Mir6, Leger and Gaudi. day. tional !'ark) to prot.:..: I the island s natural treasures. These include: The property in Recife re BEACHES SOUfH 2� difkrent spc..:ies ot" marine birds: t\\ o species of marine tortoise mained abandoned from OF RECIFE · -- one. tartamga-de-peute rh retluocltelys imhricataJ. in danger of 1945 until 1971, when Bren This is excellent bea e.\tinctimL sharks: stingra\ s: dolphins: \\ hales: and a \ ast number of nand returned from France ch territory: protected by fish species and set about restoring the coral reefs, the s e a is Tourism has pro\ eJ a hlessmg for the local economY and a han.: liJr dilapidated buildings. calm, the waters are crys the .:cos\ stem of the mchipdago. RapiJh· gn)\\ ing numbers of Festivals -The Recife tal clear, and the l:!eaches ,·isitors haY.: prompted h1cals to conYert mangnl\"e S\\ amps into Olinda combination may be are lined with coconut plots lin culti\·atwn of more food. thereby depriYing marine life of palms and white sand the best Carnaval in Brazil important breeding grounds anJ food sources. It has also been noted but even if you decide to dunes. The c o astal that fish haY.: become accustomed to being t"eJ h� tourists and ha\·e PE-060 road doesn't hug Carnaval in Rio or Salva taken to biting them. the ocean, like the road in dor, Recife starts celebrat northern A1a goas, so you in� so early that you can have to drive a dozen or so km on an access road to see what enJOY festivities there and then go somewhere else for Carnaval proper. Two months before the start of Carnaval each beach is like. Sao Jose da Coroa Grande- The first beach town you there are bailes (dances) in the clubs and Carnaval b/ocos reach after crossing into Pernambuco from Alagoas is Sao practicing on the streets with frevo dancing everywhere. Galo da Madrugada, Recife's largest bloco, has been known Jose da Coroa Grande, which has one of Pernambuco's finest beaches. It's 1 20 km from Recife on the PE-060 to bring 20,000 people in costume onto the beaches at Boa coastal road. The fishing town is receiving attention from Viagem to dance.

Fernando de Noronha

NE'NS from BRAZIL· APRIL 1995

property developers, mostly for construction of weekend celebration in the works. homes. Orientation Olinda is six km north of Recife. The Taman dare- The next access road north of Sao Jose da historical district, which constitutes about 10% of the city, Coroa Grande goes 10 km to the beach at Tamandare. is concentrated around the upper streets of the hill and is There's a small fishing village here with only a couple of easily visited on foot. The beaches immediately adjacent to the city, Milagres for example, suffer from pollution, and bars and no hoteL The beach is idyllic and you can see the old 17th-century Forte Santo Inacio. bathing is not recommended. Casa Caiada, the district at the More Beaches The dirt road going north along the foot of the hill, has several restaurants. coast from Tamandare will take you past the beaches of Throughout Olinda you'll no doubt hear the cry guia (guide). Olinda has more little kids throwing their services Ponta dos Manguinhos, Guadalupe, Camela and then to at you than anywhere in Brazil. If driving with an out-of Barra de Sirin-haem, where there is a 1 0-km access road state license plate, wearing a backpack or dawdling in front back to the main road. The only lodging in these towns is with the local of a church, you'll be besieged. Offering services is fine, but fisherfolk. During the week the beaches are practically the aggressive tactics employed by some of these characters should be ignored; and if you do take a guide, make sure the deserted. Off the coast is the Ilha de Santo Aleixo. Porto de Galinhas- Seventy km south of Recife is Porto price is fixed before you start the tour. de Galinhas (Port of Chickens). The Walking Tour - Starting at Praya do Carmo, visit Igreja Nossa Senhora name came as a result of slave trade which secretly continued after abolition. do Carmo (currently under restoration). & Then follow Rua de Sao Francisco to Upon hearing that the chickens from Angola had arrived, the masters of Recife Convento Sao Francisco(l585), which knew to expect another load of slaves. is a large structure containing three Ih..: small to\\ n of !'at..:nJa No\'a. SO elements: the convent, the Capela de Porto de Galinhas has one of km from Caruaru. is famous for its Pernambuco's most famous beaches, Sao Roque (chapel), and the lgreja de th..:at..:r-<:�t\ r..:n>nstntdwn of J..:tusakm. Nossa Senhora das Neves (church). which curves along a pretty bay lined kno\\n as ·No\a J.:tusakm. Snrrotmd..:d with coconut palms, mangroves and At the end of the street, turn left ll\ a thr..:..:-m..:t..:r lngh \\ all \\ ith s..:\ ..:n cashew trees. Most of the beach, three onto Rua Frei Afonso Maria and you'll gat..:\\ a\ s. 70 to\\ ..:ts. anJ 12 grani t..: krn from town, is sheltered by a reef, but see the Semi m irio de Olindaandlgreja stag..:s. th..: r..:constrm:tion on:upi..:s an ar..:a ..:quiYaknt h> a tlurd of th..: \\alkJ Nossa Senhora da Gra�a (1549) on there are some waves for surfers. The citY of krusakm as it stood in th..: tim..: the hill above. water is warm and clear -- you can see of".T..:sus. the colorful fish playin g around your Continue up the street, then turn left Th..: tim..: to \ tsit ts Juring S..:aman at Rua Bispo Coutinho and climb up to feet. There are plenty of jangadas for Santa (!lol\ \\'..:..:k. hdJ in March or Alto da Se, ('Cathedral Heights'), rent but they're not cheap ($4 an hour). April - dat�s \·an). \\ h..:n s..:\·..:ral h.un which is a good spot to enjoy superb Should you tire of Praia de Porto de dr..:J of th..: inhabitants of hu..:.nJa No\·a Galinhas, head for Praia de Maracaipe, a views of Olmda and Recife. There are p..:rfonn th..: l'al\<io d..: Cristo (Passion beach three km away. From here you can outdoor restaurants and a small craft !'laY 1. sail on ajangada to Ilha de Santo Aleixo. market with some good woodcarvings, figurines and jewelry. It's a big hang The fishers charge $10 per hour and take out at night - good for meeting people, up to four passengers on their boats. Gaibu & Cabo de Santo Agostinho -Although Gaibu is eating and drinking and, with a btt of luck, hearing some the larger town further up the coast, beach bums should head local music. The imposing Igreja da Se (1537) is open from 7 am to 7 pm on Saturday and Sunday. only as far as Cabo de Santo Agostinho, one of the state's Continue a short distance along Rua Bispo Coutinho finest beaches. There are facilities for snorkeling and spear-fishing. Take a walk to the ruins of the Forte Castelo until you see the Museu de Arte Sacra de Pernambuco (MASPE) on your right. MASPE is housed in a beautiful do Mar, which is next to the church. . building (1696) that once functioned as Olinda's Episcopal On a hill between Gaibu and Calhetas (you have to ask around for directions) there's a small, freshwater stream Palace & Camara (Government Council). The museum con that's used for nude bathing. tains a good collection of sacred art and a photographic Suape & Ilha do Paiva - Suape has been developed as homage to the city. an industrial port. Heading north again, llha do Paiva, About 75 meters further down the street, turn right into nicknamed the island of lovers, is popular for its nude a patio to visit Igreja Nossa Senhora da Concei�ao (1585). beaches. Take a boat from Barra das Jangadas --it's worth Retrace your steps and continue down the street, now a visit. named Ladeira da Misericordia, to Igreja da Misericordia (1540), which has fine azulejos and gilded carvings inside. The mainland beaches here -- Candeias, Venda Grande, From here, tum right onto Rua Saldanha Marinho to see Piedade -- are semi-urban beaches with many barracas, Igreja Nossa Senhora do Amparo (1581) - currently under hotels and crowds on weekends. But they are still good beaches, with clean water and sometimes strong surf. renovation. D escend Rua do Amparo to join Rua 13 de Maio and walk about 100 meters until you see Museu de Arte Contemporinea (MAC) on your right. This museum of contemporary art is recommended for its permanent and temporary exhibits. The museum is housed in an 18th-cen� ajube, a jail used by the Catholic church during the Inquisi tiOn -- v·ith the new paint job you,d hardly guess its grim past . Beautiful Olinda, placed on a hill overlooking Recife Rua 1 3 de M a10 contmues m a hgh t curve to a Junchon and the Atlantic, is one of the largest and best preserved with Rua Bernardo de Melo and Rua Sao Bento. If you walk colonial cities in BraziL Although many of the buildings in up Rua Bernardo de Melo, you'll come to Mercado da Olinda were originally constructed in the 16th century, the Ribeira an 18th-century structure that is now home to art Dutch burnt virtually everything in 163 1. Consequently, and artisan galleries. most of what you now see has been reconstructed at a later If you walk down Rua Sao Bento, you'll reach the huge date. Mosteiro de Sao Bento (1582) which has some exceptional Whilst Recife plays the role of an administrative and woodcarving in the chapel. Do some exploring in here by economic center, Olinda is recognized as its cultural coun going up the stone stairs on your left as you enter. There are terpart: a living city with bohemian quarters, art galleries, all sorts of dark passageways and mysterious rooms. Brazil's museums, music in the streets, and always some kind of first law school was housed here for 24 years (I'm not sure -

FAZENDA NOVA NOVA JERUSALEM

OLINDA

NEWS from BRAZIL - APRIL 1995

scene. During the week it's what lawyers did in colonial Brazil, but it had little to do with justice). empty. There is a regular Beaches - The city beaches are pMluted and not recommended for bathing. However, there bus service to the island are many excellent beaches north of Olinda. Festivals -Olinda's Carnaval has been very popular with Brazilians and travelers for several but getting to its many years (see also the Carnaval section in Recife). The old historic setting combined with the fact beaches takes some time if you don't have a car. There that so many residents know each other provides an intimacy and security that you don't get in is a handful of hotels, few big city Carnavals. It's a participatory Camaval: 90stumed blocos parade through the city of which are cheap. dancing to frevo music and everyone else follows. Beaches - ltamaraca In recent years there have been complaints of creeping Camaval commercialization in has a long history and a lot Olinda. On the other hand, Recife's Carnaval has been getting better reviews lately. Since the two cities are so close, of beach. The better you could try out both beaches are north and south of them at Carnaval. of Pilar, Itamaraca's town beach. Two km north of Publications with full information on Car town is Jaguaribe, an emp If \OU ilk.: folk all and \Ill! \\ ak.: up 111 R.:�1f.: on a W.:dn.:sda\ or naval schedules and tier beach with barracas. Satunla\ tl:.:l in� lik.: a da\ t11p. 'ou·r.: 1 11 lud; Caruaru. South Am.:ri�:a·s For still more isolated events are supplied "'Pita! ti>r .:.:ram11.: fig.unn.: art. is onh a n>upk o f h ours '"' a\ . beaches, hike five km fur by the tourist office Fl'ira Lh rt•- The Fe1ra !.inc t(irand Open Fairl. hdd in the ce nte r in Olinda. ther north along the coast ,,f Caruam on \Vednesda\s and Satmda\s. 1s a hot and nols\ crush of to Praia Lance dos Ca9oes Camaval in Olin Nordestmos: ,·cndors. p �>ds . singers. rural and to\\n folk. tourists. and Fortinho. Immediately da lasts a full l l days. musicians and artisans. /.al>ullll>a tdmm) hands arc accompanied by the There are organized south of town is Praia Baixa nu1si<.: of ptlitrm (\ crticJ I !lutes). \ derans of the !'aragua\ all \ \ a r fire Verde, and every three km Carnaval events, in ritl.:s up Ill the hills of llom .!.:sus. a nd wla11queiros. B razili an rag south are more beaches: cluding balls (of me1�:hants. ha\\ k th eir snaps of dothing. Praia Rio Ambo, Praia course), a night of I he markd has he<.: om e a popular tourist attradion and mam it ems Forno de Cal, Praia de Sllo samba, and a night of on sak arc produced li>r tourists Alongsi de pots. !.:ather b a gs and stra\\ baskets are re prese nta tions of strange beas ts and m\ thical monsters afoxe, but everything Paulo and finally Praia de naftcd '" mtists as famous as Caruaru·s ma ster . Mestre Vitalinn. To sec Vila Velha, which also is a else happens m im the art1sts at \\ ork . \ isit i\ltn d<> Moura. historic old port near Forte promptu fashion on In add1tion to ceramic art\\ ork '''u can hear singers and poets perform the streets. The offi Orange. the lilera/ura de cordel t liicralh ·stnng literature·): poctr\ h\ and for the Forte Orange - this cial opening ceremo p.:opl.: sold 111 link bro dl llrcs "l11ch hang fwm the fa i r s ta nds '" stri n g nies -- with the pomp fort was built in 1630 by 1 he1Ke the name 1. The poe ms tdl of political e\ .:nts 1 the death of the Dutch and served as a and ceremony of the pn:sident lanncdo Nc\'cs is likened to a mother gi,·ing hirth to :.1 nat wn base in a series of battles Olympic games - and then e'\piring be t i>rc she .:an su.:kl.: her infa n t ). national f1gm.:s against t h e Portuguese commence w i t h a ((idulio Var!!as. .los0 Same\·. Fcrnan,lo Collor). miradcs and fcsti\·als. colonies in Recife and bloco of more than as \\dl as t ra,litwnal .: om �di es and tragedi.:s (for c'\ampk. ahout a 400 'virgins' (men in Olinda. It's an impressive "onwn \1 lw lost h.:r lwnor to Satan 1 ;\!though its role in diftilsing bastion, right on the water, drag) and awards for popular cultur.: is t hr.:a t.:nc d h\ TV. lileml11ra de cordel is still \Hillen. but souvenir shops are rear the most beautiful, Sl>l,l and p.:rformcd in public l" Caruaru·s ,;tr.;d p ods . ing their ugly little heads. the most risque and In a s.:paratc sedi on of the main fair. th.:r.:· s th.: Feira do Tro<.:a-Troca for the biggest p rude. 1llarkr I\ lark.:! I \\ h.:r.: _illnk a nd tr.:asmc -- d.:p.:ndmg on the p .:rspcd i\ ' 1.! Everyone dresses of th.: bm .:rs and sdkrs -- ar.: traded · for the Carnaval, so Fdra d� Art�'anatu- This handicrali mark.:! on Parqu.: I X d.: Maio GARANHUNS you'll want some sort is op.:n dail\ fwm 11 am to 5 pm Garanhuns, 100 k m Fdra da Sulanca- This tc'\til.: and dothin!! market. the lar!!cst in th.: of costume. The Car ' from Caruaru and 241 km North<:<!'!. 1s s.:t up on l'arquc I X de Maio on Tn.:sda\ nnd Tllursdm naval groups of thou from Recife, is popular as a Ca'a da Cultunt Ju\l' Cundi·- This cultural n:nt.:r on Parqu.: I X de sands dance thefrevo holiday resort because of f\law n>ntams a l'l>upk of mtts.:ums. Th.: most int.:r.:sting is Museu do through the narrow its relatively high altitude I ono. containing c'\hibits about/inn)- r.:cords and musi�:al instmmcnts. streets. It'svery play (900 meters) and healthy It's open from'! am to noon and fn>m 2 to 5 pm. Ml>mhl\ to Frida\� and ful and very lewd. climate. Although it isn't from'!am to I pm on Satur,la\ Five separate areas quite the 'Sui9a Pernarn 1\lusl'U du Barru - !'his mus.:11m. contnining displa\s of potter\' have orchestras play bucana' (Switzerland of produced 1" famous lo cal a rt is h. IS msi d.: the Espw;o Cultural Tancr.:do ing nonstop from 8 N.:\'.:s at l'ra.;a .los0 Vascon cdos . 1110. It·s op en from '! am to noon and Pernambuco) touted i n pm to 6 am nightly. from 2 to 5 pm. 1\'londa\ t<> Frida'. and fwm 'J am to I pm on Satmda\ tourist brochures, i t does Apart from Car Altu d� 1\luura - /\Ito d,· Moura. si'\ km from Caruarn. 1s a small possess pleasant parks, gar naval, we also highly communit\ of potters \\ hid1 s pc c1a l11.:s i n p ro ducing fir.urilllws (flgll dens, and cool air -- all of recommend the festi n n.: s 1 Ma n ' of th.: potters arc dc".:ndants of Mestre Vitalino. th.: nwst which are a respite from val known as Folclore tinnous artist. \1 ho bwu!!ht fame to i\ Ito de Mo11ra. Other not.:d a1t1sts arc the oppressive heat of the Nordestino, held at /.: Cahod o. 1\'lanu.:l (udlKil>. and Cu nhado de 7..:: Cabodo. Mus.:11 interior of the state. the end of August, M.:sllc V J talino 1 J\;la st.:r V1talino Mus.:nml. housed· in the simp!.: hom.: which feaof th.: mast.:r. l'l > llta ms his tools ami p.:rsoual d'f.:cts. It's op.:n from 'Jam tures dance, to noon an,l ti·om 2 to 5 pm. Monda\ to SatmJa\ . E'\cerpts from Hra::il- .I Yon can "and.:r the strc.:ts and hnm s.: through dozens of \1 ork shops music, and Trm·e't SwTiml !-."it and galkri.:s "here the figurines arc on sale. folklore 2nd edition. from many by Andre'' Draffen. parts of the Northeast. BEACHES NORTH OF OLINDA Deanna S\\ anc� You've got to get out of town a bit for a fine, clean beach. Head north to Janga beach and Robert Strauss. For (eight km) or at least Rio Doce (six km), and beyond to Praia do 6 ( 12 km); Praia do Pau more information call Amarelo (14 km); Praia da Conceiyllo (17 km); and Praia da Maria Farinha (23 km). The Lonely Planet: (XOO) 275road goes along close to the beach, but don't be deterred by the ugly development beside �555. Copyright I 'J'J:! the road: the beaches are generally undisturbed except for barracas and crowds on Lonely Planet Publications weekends. Enjoy �e local siri (small crab) and caranguejo (big crab) at the barracas. ITAMARACA Used by permission. Only 50 km from Recife, Itamaraca Island is a pleasant and popular weekend beach

CARUARU

NEWS from BRAZIL- APRIL 1995

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NE'NS from BRAZIL- APRIL 1995

fast, so much so that the police and even his fans thought that an imposter was performing in a Silo Paulo show and he ended up spending some time behind bars for imperson ating himself. The week end that preceded his death he had forgotten his insulin shots. He died, alone, in his apartment hotel in downtown Silo Paulo. And then suddenly he started getting all the adulation he had recently lost. His fans demanded that his body be taken in a fire truck to the Con gonhas airport for his last trip back do Salvador, Ba hia. In Bahia, the proces sion that followed the casket degenerated into a tumult forcing police in tervention. Almost six years af ter his death, the myth of the singer-composer, who used to play a mix of rock aro baiiJo seems bigger than ever. He has more than 200 fan-clubs throughout the country. No other artist has that many. His biography, 0

Bau do Raul (Raul's Trunk), has already had

more than 20 editions and it has sold more than 60,000 copies, a phemenon, in a land where some bestsellers have an edition of less than 5,000 copies. At least a dozen books have been written about him. All of his records, now CDs, continue to sell even to a generation who was too young to listen to him when he was a hit. He has been the object of admiration of all kinds of singers and bands who pay him tribute singing his songs. Brazilians have been buying his 40 or so records at the rate of 300,000 copies a year. Gal Costa one of the most sucessful performers of the MPB (Brazilian Popular Music) doesn't sell that many. His three daughters from three of his five marriages, are guaranteed a comfortable life, receiving around $3,000 a month in royalties from songs alone. Sertanejos have paid hommage to Raulzito, so have Silo Paulo's carnavalescos, transforming his life into sarnba-enredo (music made for samba schools) entitled "From Rock to Samba: Every body is Crazy Beauty", ga rage bands have been giving his compositions fresh new read ings, a n d a whole new gen eration has adopted him as its guru. There is even a band called MetaNEWStrom BRAZIL· APRIL 1995

morphose Ambulante the title of one of Raul's songs - whose whole purpose is to remake the singer's songs in heavy metal rhythms. To cel ebrate the singer from Bahia, producer Kika Seixas, his third wife, who lived with him from 1979 to 1985, has cre ated the annual Rio cel ebration known as Bail do Raul that takes place in August, the month the artist died. Starting with the first show, the ma jority of the public was youngters between the ages of 14 and 17. Raulzito Seixas, the rich boy from Bahia, was only 12 when he started his rock band Raulzito e os Panteras in 1957. Two years later he founded the Elvis Rock Club, but never built the promised headquarters, spending all the money on hook ers. In 1967, at age 22, he married Edith Nadine Wisner, the daughter of an American Prostestant Minister who lived in Salvador. To please the pastor he even started to study law, but it didn't work and soon he and his wife were in Rio looking for a job as musicians. After two frustrating years, the couple returned to Bahia. It was 1969. The next year Seixas would meet CBS director Evandro Ribeiro, in Salvador, and soon he would be back in Rio as a record producer. His anthological "Ouro de Tolo" is from 1973. The irony was already present when he said, Eu devia estar contente/ porque eu tenho urn

ernprego,! sou urn dito cidadiio respeitado/ e ganho 4000 cruzeiros por mes (I should be happy/ because I have a

j9b,/ I am a so-called respected citizen! and I make 4,000 cruzeiros a month.) Two new records have just been released with the work of Seixas. The first one is Se o Radio Niio Toea (If the Radio Doesn't Play), Raul's 1974 live Brasilia show which has never before been released, and in which he is in top shape. The other, Raul, is a box with four CDs containining hits from all of his phases and from differ ent recording companies.

NEWS from BRAZIL- APRIL 1995

:\la�alcnha (Carlinhos llnl\\ nl Int.:rpr.:h!d h\ 1-:Iba Ramaiho Y.:m Ma!!aknha rojiio Tra1 a k'i1ha pro fogiio Y.:m 1�11-:r annaciio I Ioj.:..: dia d.: soi i\l�gria d.: roi\l ..: rurtir o ,.l!nlo

r..: r.:: r.:: T.:r.:�.: l.! l.! l.! T.:r.:t.!

T.:: T.! T.:: T.:rd.! Y.:m Ma!!aknha rojiio lra/ a kilha pro ro'g•lo 1.:: l.! l.! Cora..:iio lloje ..: dia d.: s�ll i\ l�gria d.: \odll Meu d<:Y<:r de \·eriio

l.! T.! l.! 'kr.:t.! C;tlango Iango no .:alango da prctinha Til rantando essa nwdinha pra s.:nhora se lcmbrar Daqud.: tempo em que nna hi na ro.;a Com uma fllha na harriga E outra fiiha pra criar

l.! T.! l.! Terd.! T.! l.! T.! Teret.! 1.! l.! T..: ler.:t.! Vai 1\tcxcr

Margarcth Mena.:s i\ mi1si.:a Quando ei!l'anta Vai me\er .:om s.:u

ronu;ao E pra se l orar Sc desp.:rlar

Vai me\cr .:om seu rorat,:ao Sinto o som que \ em de d.:ntro J>uro scntimcnlo Yai me\cr com scu ror;��:ao Sc '� m .:urtir Sc \ em to.:ar Soltando o mo\·im.:nto Vai mc\cr .:om seu

conu;iio

Sci quc scu rorpo .:sti1 rurtindo o en.:antamento Que ..: s(l mi!Si.:a Qu.: ..: sll mi1si..:a l'ra hakr outro papo. sim. snn. sun l'ra hat.:r outro papo. pra lllllll l'ra bater oulro papo. sim. Sllll. sun Pra hater oulro papo. pra mim You hater no pro'\imo Slllll. .! . .! ·

•

1994. She is coming this April on a coast-to-coast tour of the US. Elba's eclectic show salutes from Carmen Miranda to Edith Piaff, moving from Caribbean swing to Bossa Nova, but its heart and soul are the accordion-driven sounds of Brazil's northeast. Her energy and enthusiasm are unsurpassed. Elba can keep the audience moving, feet tapping with the feeling of revelry in the air. Her distinctive voice and seductive style handily convey the music's exuberance, while her dance num bers with partner Carlinhos de Jesus are too hot for words. "Margaretb Menezes is the real thing. A taste of the incredible energy and spirit of Salvador da Bahia."

;\la�aicnha Come Magaknlw rod.. .:� Bring - th.: fir<:\\ nod for th.: stm.: Cum.: pia� your gam.: TodaY is a sunn' da' f.. bat fish· s .JO \ 1.s ellJOYlllg summ.:r T.! r.: T.! kr.:t.: T..: T..: Tl: T.:r.:t.: T.! T.! T.! I .:r.:t..:

Come Magaknha rod.d Bring l h.: fire\\ ood for th.: sto\<: T.! T.! T.!. I hm.:' Toda\ is a sunn' da\ i\ loY.:r' s jo\ My summer d·ut\ ·

T.! T.! T..: T.:rct.!

David Byrne

l.! T.! l.! Terd.! l.! T.! r.: Ter.:t.::

NEWS from BRAZIL

ian star. In 1984, Elba performed in the film Para Viver um Grande Amor (l'o Live a Great Love), in which she sang the song "A Violeira" ("The Violist") which was composed for her by Antonio Carlos Jobim and Chico Buarque. She also starred in Rui Guerra's film 6pera do Malandro, based upon Chico Buarque's play which was released in 1985. In 1987 Elba relaxed her frenetic schedule for a short time after the birth of her son Lua. Devora Me, her sixteenth album, was released in

APRIL 1995

Margareth began acting and singing in 1983 in Bahia, where there seems to be an inherent mix of all the music of the world. She incorporates the gloriously polyrhythmic Afro-Bahian styles like lambada, afoxe and samba-reggae, all fired by a voice that can rouse an audience to its feet or seduce it with passionate soulful ballads. Her latest album is Luz Dourada (Golden

Light).

Margareth hails from Boa Viagem, a beach in Salvador. She also had early training in theater with Reinaldo Nunes. She appeared in Ser ou Niio Ser Gente (l'o be or not to Be a Person) by Silas Henrique in 1980, then in Mascaras (Masks) in 1981, and later in Jnspetor Geral (General Inspector) in 1982 under the direction of Reinaldo Nunes. Following an appearance with the circus Troca de Segredos (Secrets' Swap) in 1983, she began to sing at various clubs in Salvador and at Centros Sociais Urbanos (Urban Social Centers), accompanied by composer Silas Henrique. During 1984-5 she starred in the rock opera Co/agens e Bobagens (Collages and Silliness) by Shirley Pinheiro and Antonio Moreno both in Salvador and Sao Paulo, attracting considerable media attention. Her first participation in Carnaval was in 1986 in Bahia, which led to her being chosen as principal vocalist for the 1987 Bloco Carnavalesco 20 Ve (a play with a number that gives us the sound of "vim te ver" - "I came to see you"). Her first album, Margareth Menezes was released in. 1988, followed by her second in 1989 Um Canto pra Subir (A Song for Lifting)._ Later that year she toured in Brazil with Gilberta Gil and Dominguinhos. . Her big break was the invitation to tour with David Byrne (from the group Talking Heads) on his World Tour "Rei Momo". This tour led Byrne to proclaim: " Margareth Menezes is the real thing. A taste of the incredible energy and spirit of Salvador da Bahia. I'm proud to say MM often stole the show when we toured together in fall '89.. .I'm not the only one! She's "stolen" the show from some top Brazilian acts as well. She is an intelligent risk-taker who knows what she wants...a beautiful singer, dancer and musician...whose boldness ema nates from a strong foundation. Axe to you Margareth!"Her album, Elegib6 (Mango, 1990) cemented her position as an important ambassador of Brazilian music to the world. Margareth's latest album is Luz Dourada (Golden Light)on Polygram. The electric combination of Elba and Margareth performing together promises to bring to the US a new awareness of the range of Brazilian music: This show is a celebration of Brazil's ebullient culture. They will be in Miami, New York and Oakland, California. They will appear together April 22 at Oakland's Paramount Theatre. Their show, Brazilian Tropical Night, a Thalia Lubin production, will be the west coast premiere of two of Brazil's most dynamic superstars.

T.! T.! T..: T.:r.:t.! T.! T.! T.! T.:r.:t..: Litard itarJ in the litard of the blm: ki.: gnl rm singing this dill\ so 'ou \\ ill r.:m.:mh.:r That ·\'OU used to li\ .: Ill the ba.:k \\ oods With a daughter in \our hdh And another to h.: rmsell ·

T.! T.! T.! Terct.!

TO: T.! T.! Ter.:t.! Tc! T.! T..: Tcrct.!

It's �onna mon•

Margarcth Menoo:s

The musK When II he\\ Ih:h.:s It's gonna mo\·.: \our h.:an It"s to tou.:h To :make It"s gonna lllll\·e \ ou h.:art I fed th.: sound that comes from ins ido: Pure lcdinu It"s gonna mon! \·ou� heart We .:om.: to enjoy We .:ome to l)ia\· Freeing th.: mo \ ' <:ment It"s gomw mo\ e \ our li.:art I knm\ your hod\ is o.:njm in!! the en.:hailliil.:rlt Which is onh musi.: Which is on!\ mus1.: To han: anotlier dwt. \t.!' " S. \"\!S. \\.! ' S To h a\' e ·another c·lwt \\ ith Ill<! To ha\'c anolh.:r rhat. \'C'S. \'t.!S. \'C'S To ha\'e ·another dwt \\ ith me I'm gonna hit th.: n<:\1 sound . .:h. eh

\ '

Fogo Morto Based on Jose Lins do Rego's novel. Blin d minstrels reminisce about the old sugar cane plants. Directed by Sidney Cruz. In Rio A Comedia dos Erros - An adaptation of Shakespeare by Caca Rosset. With Cristiane Tric erri and Mari a A lice Vergueiro. In Silo Paulo. A Gaiola das Loucas- Twenty years later, Rio's Cage aux Foiles is back with the same duo who starred in it two de cades ago, Jorge Doria and Carvalhinho. Jorge Fernando directs the new mise-en-scene. Louro, Alto, Solteiro, Procu ro - Miguel Falabella, who wrote the text, plays all17 char acters of this comical m ono logue. In Rio. 0 Livro de Jo - Based on the Bible, it discusses divine inter vention and God's power. Di rected by Antonio Araujo. In Sao Paulo. Nas Raias da Loucura- Name inspired by interpreter Claudia Raia. Lyrics by Silvio de Abreu and directed by ze Rodrix. 0 Homem da Pizza - A comi cal view of a woman's loneli ness. Wri t t en by D a r le ne Craviotto, directed by Cininha de Paula. In Rio Porca Miseria - Four Italian brothers struggle to survive in Sao Paulo. Director: Gianni Ratto_ In Sao Paulo Querida Mamlie- Maria Ade laide Amaral play about a touchy mother-daughter rela tionship. In Rio. Vestido de Noiva - Nelson Rodrigues play about Alaide's dreams and her frustrations when facing reality. Eduardo Tolentino de Araujo directs. In Sao Paulo Trair e Cofar E So Comefar A loony maid makes life miser able for her bosses. In Sao Paulo.

Fiction

Movies American films just released: Little Women (Adoraveis Mulheres), Quiz Show (Quiz Show A Verdade dos Bastidores), Milk Money (As Aparencias Enganam), Fresh (Fresh), TheChase (RotaylioMaxima), Pulp Fiction (Tempo de Violencia), Sleep With Me (VemDormirComigo), Drop Zone (Zona Mortal), Zero Patience, The Professional (0 Profissiona/), Terminal Velocity (Queda Livre) Una Simples Formalita (Uma Simples Formalidade) Italy - (1994) - Giuseppe -

Tornatore's thriller about a writer who is caught full of blood by police and is accused of murder. Carlota Joaquina - Princesa do Brazil Brazil - (1994)- Directed by Carla Camura ti, it tells the story of the wife of Dom Joao VI. Rouge (A Fraternidade E Vermelha) France/Poland/Switzerland - (1994) - Last movie of director Krzysztof Kieslowski's trilogy on the themes of the French Revolu tion: liberty, fraternity, equality . Veja Esta Canflio - Brazil - (1993) - Four episodes inspired by four songs: "Pisada de Elefante" (Ben Jor), "Drao" ( Gil), "Samba do Grande Amor" (Chico Buarque), and "Voce e Linda" (Caetano Veloso). Caca directs.

1. A Ilha do Dia Anterior Umberto Eco (Record) 2. Comedias da Vida Privada101 Cronicas Escolhidas L uis Fernando V erissimo (L&PM) 3. Na Margem do Rio Piedra Eu Sentei e Chorei Paulo Coelho (Rocco) 4. 0 Ditirio de um Mago Paulo Coelho (Rocco) 5. A Profecia Celestina James Radfield (Objetiva) 6. Do Amor e Outros Demo nios- Gabriel Garcia Marquez (Record) 7. LafOS Eternos Zibia M. Gasparetto (Espa<;:o, Vida e Consc1encia) 8. Nada Dura para Sempre Sidney Sheldon (Record) 9. Brtda Paulo Coelho (Rocco) 10. 0 Alquimista Paulo Coelho (Rocco) LafOS Eternos Zibia M. Gasparetto (Espa <;:o,Vida e Consciencia)

Nonfiction 1. A Magia dos Anjos Caba listicos - Monica Buonfiglio (Oficina Cultura Esoterica) 2. Anjos Cabalisticos MonicaBuonfiglio- (Berkana) 3. Maktub Paulo Coelho (Rocco) 4. Chato, o Rei do Brasil Fernando Morais (Companhia das Letras) 5. Auto Estima - Aprendendo a Gostar Mais de Voce Lair Ribeiro (Objetiva) 6. Danuza Todo Dia Danuza Leao (Siciliano) 7. 0 Sucesso Nlio Ocorre por Acaso Lair Ribeiro (Objetiva) 8. A Lanterna na Popa Roberto Campos (Topbooks) 9. Prosperidade - Fazendo Amizade com o Dinheiro Lair Ribeiro (Objetiva) 10. Entenda a Obesidade e Emagrefa Alfredo Halpern ( MG) NEWS from BRAZIL. APRIL 1!195

PsYCHIC TEACHINGS Author and co-author of more than 100 books on m e t a p hysics and paranormal phenomena, Brazilian writer, teacher and scholarDivaldo P. Franco is coming to California. His visit is preceded by his fame as a psychic lecturer, a work he has done for more than 40 years in more than 1,000 cities in 34 countries. Another less-known side of Franco is his phil anthropic work to shelter homeless children. The paranormal writer and lecturer will be in the San Francisco area on May 26 and 27 for a conference at the Cathedral Hill Hotel. The visit is spon sored by the Spiritual Science Study CenterDr. Humberto de Campos. For information or reservation call Peter Cosentino (415) 695-9414 or Christo pher Vieira (510) 234-7977.

SoccER's BEST Come J uly, American soccer coaches for the first time ever will have a chance to get together with a national-level soccer coaching staff fromBrazil, the four-time soccer world champion, here in the US . This high. level Brazilian group will show tech niques, tactics, and psychological pro cedures used by the world's best soc cer coaches. The number of participants in the symposium to be held at Pensacola's University, in West Florida cannot exceed 60. Upon completion of the program, all of them will receive a certificate of participation from Silo Paulo's Coaches Federation. The meet ing is being organized by Iowa's BRUSA International Soccer Institute. Would you like to know more? Call Jose Tadheu Gon�alves at (515) 2261378. NEVIlS from BRAZIL· APRIL 1995

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•

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m . ;

20 onos de experiencio no linha Psicodinamica

•

�

Fatima Castro

BANK REPOS BEST VALUES! FORECLOSURE PROPERTIES LOWER YOUR MORTGAGE PAYMENTS GREAT ADJUSTABLE RATE PROGRAMS AVAILABLE WITH LOW START RATES! CONSOLIDATE DEBTS! Cowenllll�/VA/FHA fi.CI sel'llce mll'IIIIV! REGENT MORTGAGE CO.

(818) 441-5464

I 280 8.LakeAve. #129 PasDm, CA 91101 ·

VIDEO SEND $24. 95 PLUS $5.00

SHIPPING & HANDLING TO BLACKPLAYBOY P.O. BOX 2494 VENICE, CA 90294 -2494 (310) 450-0365

Q(UPO tJt BQAZIL EXOTIC SAMBA DANCERS, TRADITIONAL MUSIC & DANCE OF BRAZIL. FOR CLUBS, CELEBRATIONS, _ETC. VIDEO AVAILABLE. CALL TODAY

AGENCIA

FAX YOUR A ONE WEEK FREE TRI

(800) 237-8236

(916) 361-9549

��m�� m�� m�B INmrun, IN�. 101 N. Wacker Dr.# CM-285 Chicago, IL 60606 USA

(305) 785-6980

fUG!�UO �UI�T�Illl

(312) 276-6683

tax: (312) 252-3729 GUlAS DE TURISTAS PROFISSIONAIS CASAS DO FAMOSO ARQUITETO FRANK LLOYD WRIGHT LOJAS e LAGO MICHIGAN A EPOCA DOS GANGSTERS JAZZ• EXCURSOES EM BARCO

FALAMOS PORTUGUES Elis AND Jobim

ELlS REGINA

Her Story and Her Music

60-minute radio special Stereo Audiocassette

) lJ RAZI L Nc cwctaln

KEEDS AD SELLERS IK THE U.S. & BRAZIL

(800) 3�4·4953

FOR AD 48

CALL

U.S.-$13.95 incl. S&H Inti. -$15.95 incl. S&H Check \money order to: Edwin Hersch PO. Box 1074 Mill Valley. CA 94942 2-Week Delivery

ATTORNEY AT LAW ADVIISADO DEPORTATION EMPLOYMENT VISAS IMMIGRATION APPEALS CONSUMER MATTERS IN CAliFORNIA, IN LOS N4SEUS CAll OUTSIDE LA. CAll

{800) 595-595-7 {213) 739·1900

3255 WILSHIRE BLVD. #1032 LOS ANGELES, CA 90010

WHEREVER YOU ARE IN THIS GALPI/..Y

li[U�WHf�YAII NEEDS

VOLUNTEERS FOR

PROOFREADING WRITING MAINTAINING MAILING LIST

1-800-354-4953 YOU'LL GET SOME PERKS IN RETURN

NOW 213 255-8062 NE\IVS from BRAZIL

- APRIL 1995

FEIRA LIVRE OPEN MARKET

BooKs

Catalogo gratuito. P.O. Box 170286-NFB - Brooklyn, NY 11217 - (800) 727-'LUSO.

Livros brasileiros.

CLASSES Computer classes- Groups and

pnvate classes. (818) 507-1521 Portuguese classes-Individual & small groups. I'm a native Brazilian mstructor with an uni versity degree in languages. Try a free lesson. (415) 771-9474 Portuguese lessons - Designed for all-levels, in an informal fm1 atmosphere. The instructor is a native speaker with Master De gree/teaching experience in the US. (415) 383-8859 ENTERTAINMENT Exotic samba dancers, tradi

tional music and dance of Bra zil. For clubi;, celebrations etc. Video available. (408)464-2234 Experienced "Brasileiro" Gui tarist available to perform

Originals, Jazz and Brazilian Music. Call (805) 288-2076

The best Brazilian dance group in San Francisco & Bay Area

With the performing experience m movies, clubs and other cel ebrations. Video available. Call (415) 312-8667 Joe OFFERED Export company needs a Por

tuguese and English speaking person to supervise and inter pret. Car necessary. Phone (213) 261-9999. Leave message. Medical assistance, (Portu guese speaking): Min. 2 years exp. or 2 ears any medical re lated tiel . Will mterview pa tients, take blood pressure, pulse, tc::m perature, give injections, ViSIOn and audiometry tests and electrocardiogram, venipunc ture and treadmill exercise tests under direction of a physician. Will oversee medical mventory. Salary $1,950.00/mo. 40hrslwk. Send your resume to 23451 Madison St. Suite 200, Torrance CA 90505 Procuro _senhora/mop para fazer serViS:O de casa, hving in. Los Angeles. (213) 848-7366 Canno

MAGAZINES & NEWSPAPERS

do Brasil. Recebemos jomais di::\nos e toda� as pnncipais revistas, mclumdo masculinas e femi ninas, alcm de gibis, palavras cmzadas e livros de bolso. Tel. & fax: (617) 787-0758 Jornais e revistas

MUSIC Brazilian Music in its totality. NEWS from BRAZIL- APRIL 1995

Samba, bossa nova, chorinho baiao, axe, and more. Merchant Express - (800) 589-5884 News &

Call1-900-255-70�5 now or l-

900-AK570IL for the latest Sportsline, news, scores, Tips, Odds, Sports-trivia game on N<?rth Americ_a's #1 up to the· mmute best mformation line. Also can get on same line Stock Market Quotes, Soaps updates, and Horoscopes. Stay Current. $1.98/minute. Must be 18 or older. Sponsored by Aileron Star, Inc. Las Vegas, Nevada. 1702-598-2765 ifcomplaints. Come to where the channels arc! Receive the "Brazilian

Television Network�', news, soap operas from Brazil and the "RTP Channel" from Portuoal. Own vour satellite system. �all now (714) 385-5750 PERSONAL

has lived in your country and loves your people, music, & dance. Destrcs fnendship/romance \\�th Brasileira between 22-30 years. Interests include yoga, health food, nature. Please write R.B. 1106 2nd St. #268, Encinitas CA 92024 American Doctor, male, seeks Brazilian lady, 18-32 for fun and romance. Must be pretty. I'm very handsome and look Brazilian. (213) 293-8909. Los Angeles area. American Jewish man, 36, sin cere, deep, fun, active, doctor, seeks Jewish lady under 35 with �rown eyes and long dark hair, m Los Angeles area. (310) 2713168. America'!-o, 3 7 anos, delgado, olhJlS azms, professor de Ingles. F:ilaFrances, Espanhol Italiano Portugues. D eseja eilcontrar brasileira, 18-30 anos. Escreva para William, 1431 Ocean Ave., #II 06, Santa Monica, CA 90401. American, 52, has travelled to I3razil, desires correspondence With young, open-minded I3rasi leira living in the US, to explore compatibility and romance. Write: M.F.K., P.O.B. 215, Redmond, WA 98073 Brasileiro, 40 anos, solteiro, rcsidente, c urso super ior. Procur!l corresponder-se com brasileira, morena clara ou loira e_!ltre 21 a 30 anos, boa apa� rencia e fisico, com_ s_a(tde, para um compromisso seno levando a casamento. Escreva para 6601 Broadway St. - San Francisco, CA 94133. - Ou chame (415) American businessman

FEIRA LIVRE RATES: 50� a word. Phon.: is on.: word. ·

DISCOUNTS: For 3 tim.:s d.:duct 5%, for 6 tim.:s d.:dlll:t I 0%, l(>r 12 tim.:s d.:duct 15%. POLICY: /\II ads to b.: pr.:paid. J\ds ar.: acc.:pted at our

discr.:tion. Som•, no cr.:dit card at this time. Your canceled check Is your receipt. Please, include addr.:ss mid phone number, which will be kept confid.:ntial. DEADLINE: The 15th of tho.: month. Late ma teri al \\ ill

be held for the following monU1 if appropriate. TO PLACE AD: Send ad \\iU1 check or money order to News from Bralil P.O. Box -42536 Los Angeles, CA 9tltl50-tl536. ·

399-0787 (Apreciaria foto). Fernando Carioca. French America� guy looking for fnendship With Brazilian men 35-55. (310) 659-3139 or write: Occupant, P.O. Box 16655, Beverly Hills, CA 90209

LA./Ph.D. -Loyal, funny and supportive seeks smart, loyal and young Brazilian lady age 28 to35 for love and compan ionship. Write letter with photo to Dr. G. Martin-110 7 Fair Oaks #18� -South Pasa dena, CA 91 030 or call (213) 2 23-6100 Meet the most b e a utiful Women and To notch Men on

U1e world's # International D.ATELINE. Call l -900-329-3032or call l -900-FAX-DODA. Meet your future mate tonight. Must be 18 or older. $2.95/ minute. The Best. Sponsor is Aileron Star, Inc. Las Vegas Nev. If line complaints call I� 702-598-2764 Single American male seeks Brazilian women, 18-35 years old. I am 34 years old, healthy attractive, romantic. Please send note & photo to: 2440 16th St. #179, San Francisco, CA 94103 Successful, wealthy, good lookiJ?g marriage-minded ro mantic Amencan comedy writer, 30, speaks a little Portu guese, seeks slender, intelligent, educated, English-speaking, non-smoking, non-relio ious I3rasilcira in L.A. area. N�te & photo to: Occupant, P.O. Box 3757, Santa Monica, CA 90408

BUYING, SELLING, RENT ING-Let me assist you with all

your R_eal Estate needs. Any where m the U.S. throuoh Na tional Referral Service�. Call Debora Jackson at (703) 5480700. McEncamey Associates Inc. NATAL, BRAZIL- Let's buy or build our own winter-sum mer getaway pousada. Lookino for paf!.ners. Call(813)774-745§ or wnte: 6067 Hollow Dr. Naples, FL 33962 RECIFE, BRAZIL - Eco logist's dream. Pousada inside 400-acre forest reserve. 40 miles north ofRecife. 10 minutes from �caches. Earn income preserv mg nature. Information: Phone of Fax 011-55-81-465-1383 RENTAL

for sino le woman. Share kitchen/bath \�th I3razilian/J\mcrican family. W.L.A. $400. Utilities included. (310) 287-0905 Private

studio

SERVICE OFFERED Civil Engineer \�th Master's

Degree offers service. (Substan tial knowledge of computers and software.) (818) 507-1521 TRAVEL

Washington Tour & Travel -

PsYCHOTHERAPY

Brasil Vigo - International Money Transmitter - Passagens acreas domcsticas c interna cionais. Enviamos dinheiro para o I3rasil em 24 horas. Traslados dos aeroportos em Washinoton D.C .. Tours em Washin ton D.C. -Tel: (703) 527-6977

Emotional and psychological help. Elizabcte Almeida MA .

Certified translator, fast and

•

Ml·CC intern offers psycho therapy in English/Portuguese. Reasonable rates. (310) 2817536 REAL ESTATE

TRANSLATION & INTERP.

reliable. Call Sonia (813) 7747458 J Henry Phillips, Simultaneous mtcrprcter and ATA accredited Portuguese translator: (512) 834-1941. Fax: (512) 834-0070 49

l \

I I

SATURDAY1

8:30PM & 10:30 PM-The Girls from lpanema at Century Supper Club 10:00 PM -Brazilian Spring Partv at Bakari Art Studio - Live music - 1276 Windsor Blvd. - (213) 938-0523

SUNDAY 9

Zabumba has live music daily. See ad at page 4

2:00PM-8:00PM -Brazilian Folklore at 14 La Perla Restaurant, 1832 Colum bia Rd. (202) 723-5854 -

MONDAY10 9:00 PM-Lisa Silva Band at Bahia Cabana

9:00PM-Andrea Marcelli Trio at Caffe Roma

SUNDAY 2

WEDNESDAY12 9:00 PM - Grupo Entre Nos at Bahia Cabana

THURSDAY13

J3ERKE 7:30PM-Zeca do Tromboneat Pasand Lounge 9:00 PM-Carlao and guitar at Nino's 7:30 PM -Zeca do Trombone at Pasand Lounge

MONDAY 3 9:00 PM - Andrea Marcelli with Mike Garson & Tom Warrington at Caffe Roma

8:00 PM-Teka's Quartet at

Below

FRIDAY 14 9:00PM-Carlao& RenataCordeiroat Bahia Cabana

WEDNESDAY 5 9:00 PM - Grupo Entre Nos at Bahia Cabana

THURSDAY 6 7:30 PM - Entre Nos at Pasand Lounge 9:00 PM -Carlao and guitar at Nino's �MH·��rq�,�

8:00 PM- Katia Moraes at low

FRIDAY 7 9:00 PM - Carlao & Re nata Cordeiro at Bahia Cabana

8:30 PM & 10:30 PM -The Girls from lpanema at Century Supper Club

SATURDAY 8 9:00 PM - Viva Brasil at Bahia Cabana

9:00 PM-lvson Band at Bahia Cabana

LOS ANGELES 14 Below- 1348 14 th St., S an t a Monica -.(310) 451-5040 Bokaos Club - 8689 Wilshire Beverly Hills- (310) 659-1200 Cafe Danssa - 11533 W. PicoBl. W est L.A.- (310) 478-7866 Caffe Rom a- 350 N. Canon Dr. Beverly Hills - (310) 274-7834 Century Supper Club 10131 ConstellationBl.-(310) 553-0000 Fais-Do-Do 5257 W. Adams L.A.- (310) 842-6171 Foothill - 1992 C h e rry Ave. Long Beach - (310) 983-9190 LaVe Lee- 12514 VenturaBI. Studio City- (818) 980-8158 Saint Marks- 23 Windward Ave. Venice - (310) 452-2222 Tatou - 233 N. Beverly Dr. Beverly Hills - (310) 274 -9955 Zabumba -10717 Venice Blvd Culver City- (310) 841-6525 -

NE\NS from BRAZIL- APRIL 1995

8:30PM & 10:30PM-The Girls from lpanema at Century Supper Club

SUNDAY16 2:00PM- 8:00PM-Brazilian Folklore at14 La Perla Restaurant,1832 Colum bia Rd. - (202)723-5854

9:00 PM - Carliio & Renata Cordeiro at Bahia Cabana 8:30PM & 10:30 PM -The Girls from lpanema at Century Supper Club

SATURDAY 22

6:00PM- Marcos Santos at Foothill

MONDAY17 9:00PM -Andrea Marcelli Quartet at Caffe Roma

TUESDAY18 8:00 PM - Tom Jobim Tribute at the Lincoln Center

WEDNESDAY19 9:00 PM - Grupo Entre N6s at Bahia Cabana

THURSDAY 20 9:00 PM - Carliio & guitar at Nino's 7:00PM-Lisa Torres at Cafe Bastille22 Belden Pl.- (415) 986-5673

MONDAY 24 9:00 PM -Andrea Marcelli Quar tet at Caffe Roma

WEDNESDAY 26 9:00 PM - Grupo Entre N6s at Bahia Cabana

THURSDAY 27 8:00PM- Elba Ramalho & Ma r:g areth Menezes at Supper Club - (21:l) 9976917

9:00 PM - Carliio and guitar at Nino's 8:00 PM - Katia Moraes Below

SAN FRANCISCO

Alberto's - 736 W. Dana St ., MtnView, (415) 968-3007 Aioli - 469 Bush Street San Francisco- (415)2490900 Ashkenaz - 1317 San Pablo Ave.-Berkeley (51 0) 525-5054 Bahia - 41 Franklin St. - S. Francisco (415) 626-3306 Bahia C abana - 1600 Market St. - S. Fco. (415) 861-4202 Chambord - 152 Kearney St. S. Francisco (415) 434-3688 The Fe rryboat -Embarcadero St, Pier 3, SF, (415) 788-8866 Nino's- 1916 Martin L. K.mg Jr., Berkeley (510) 845-9303 Pas an d Lounge - 2284 Shat tuckAv.,Berk. (510)848-0260 The Ramp- 855 China Basin SanFranctsco (415)621-2378 Yoshi's-6030 Claremont Ave. Oakland (51 0) 652-9200

NE'M> from BRAZIL. APRIL 1995

at 14

FRIDAY 28 9:00 PM - Carliio & Renata Cordeiro at Bahia Cabana 8:30PM & 10:30 PM -The Girls from lpanema at Century Supper Club

SATURDAY 29 9:00 PM - Bahia Band at Bahia Cabana 8:30 PM & 10:30PM -The Girls from lpanema at Century Supper Club

SUNDAY 30 2:00 PM - 8:00 PM - Brazilian Folklore at 14 La Perla Restau rant, 1832 Columbia Rd. - (202) 723-5854

Boston Area Uvraria Plenitude (800) 532-5809

tleltfji!Mi-

Consulado G. do Brasil (617) 617-542-4000

·®®

Sylvio P. Less a (617) 924-1882

emr;•:nmaa• Aqui Brazil (617) 787-0758 Brasil Brasil (617) 561-6094 Jerry's Cacha� (617) 666-5410

Instruction Braz. & A mer. !.g. lost. (617) 787-7716

MUSIC Brazil CDs (617) 524-5030 Publications The Brazilian Monthly (617) 566-365)

;®f111f"1f

Cafe· Brazil (617) 789-5980 Tropic8lia (617) 567-4422 Pampas Churrascaria (617) 661-6613

Chicago Consulado G. do Brasil (312) 464-0244 Translations Portuguese Lang. Ctr. (312) 276-6683

Los Angeles Area Sheila Shanker (310) 836-3436

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Varig (800) GO VARIG •Vasp (310) 364-0160

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Bakari Art Studio (213) 938-0523 Folk Creations (310) 693-2844 Uniquely Brazil - Folk (818) 458-14.74 Zebi Designs (310) 391-6530

·mfilna·h"

Cosmo Auto Parts (213) 259-9818 Joio Fontes (310) 396-6690 Pit Stop - Olicina do Ita (310) 643-6666

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Banco do Brasil (213) 688-2996

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Joy's Catering (310) 438-3415 Remi VilaReal (818) 280-0061

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Samba (310) 983-9190 52

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Centro Cultural Gaucho (213) 256-6548 Clube Bras. da Calif. (714) 857-6764 MILA - Samba School (310) 391-6098 Samba"f.-a -Esc. de Samba (310) 983-9190

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Henriques - Maintenance (818) 767-5153

M·"fi"fl'·

Brazilian Consulate (213) 651-2664

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Around the World Trl. (800) 471-6333 Brazil Tours (818) 767-1200 CheviotHills Travel (310) 202-6264 F &H -HotelRepres. (800) 544-5503 Heliview -Helicopter (805)297-3691

Miami ,

Area •W!hlf

WfljUQQC.hUeJU,JsM

Transbrasil • (800) 872-3153 Varig (800) 468-2744 Vasp (800) 732-8277

e;my;p;•:nmm•

Banco do Brasil (305) 358-3586 Banco Nacional (305) 372-0100 BancoReal (305) 358-2433 Banespa (305) 358-9167

GilbertoHenriques (213) 464-0524 Jose Carlos D. Polido (714) 848-9200 Brazilian Nites Prod. (818) 566-1111 Pegasus - Parties & Ent. (818) 549-0383 Ricardo Gehr (818) 831-0992 TheRio Thing (818) 753-4932 Brazilian Market (310) 827-9139 Menage 8 Trois (310) 278-4430

W""·1•11fi¥£"'·11W Brazil "R"US (310) 607-9771

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Brasil Brasil Cult. Ctr (310) 397-3667 Modern Lang. Center (310) 839-8427

WIliN

Bossa Nova - GeOrgia (818) 891-0912 Braz. Jazz I AllOccasions (310) 839-3788 Jazz -Richard Samuels (818) 798-5424 Phys1c1an Paulo Coharte (310) 285-9670 DecloRangel (310) 828-7454 IngridRodi - Gynec. (310) 451-8144 Nilson A. Santos (213) 483-3430

Wif"P'm1'"9ti'f' Elizabeth Almeida 7.

(310) 281-7536

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News from Brazjl (213) 255-4953

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Bossa Nova .. (310) 657-5070 Brazilian Tropical (714) 720-1522 BY Brazil (310) 787-7520 Cafe Brasil (310) 837-8957 Copacabana (213) 467-3415 PanHandler (714) 970-5826 Rio Grande (818) 376-0202 Yolie's Brazilian Steak (714) 251-0722 Zabumba (310) 841-6525

WlfihfjfilftiJiU0019hM Brazilian Int. Affairs (310) 854-5881 Tocantins Communic. (818) 343-4451

:ana;

ltlffiQ:I•f}i•'d§lfl•ls�i ABFC- As. Bras. da Flor. (407) 354-5200 Cam. Com. Brasil- EUA (305) 579-9030 ARARA - Amazon. As. (813) 842-H61

il!ehfiiif](·

Consulado do Brasil (305) 285-6200

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Arnaldo Souza (305) 595-3238 Hedimo de Sa (305) 262-8212

lffii:J:I@Qfl•@ All Braz. Imp. & Exp. (305) 523-8134 Via Brasil (305) 866-7718

H"41136"f

Dr. Jorge Macedo (305) 271-7311 Dr. Mario Sanches (305) 541-7819 Dr. Neri Franzon (305) 772-4694

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FloridaReview (305) 374-5235

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Brazilian Tropicana (305) 781-1113 Brazilian Delight (305) 374-0032 Brazilian Pie (305) 866-1001 Cheese BreadHouse (305) 443-5358 Gula Gula (305) 532-3636

New Port Tours (305) 372-5007 Venture Travel (305) 379-7678 Via Brasil Travel (305 866-7580

)

Francisco Area

New

Airlines

Books IAiso-Brazilian Books (800) 727-LUSO

'flM$J=J•f}1•1dh'11•1•fi Brazilian Ch. of Com. (212) 575-9030 Brazilian Com. Bureau (212) 916-3200 Brazilian Trade Bur. " (212) 224-6280

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Brazilian Gen. Cons. (212) 757-3080

•m•;•:nmma• AmazOnia (718) 204-1521 Coisa Nossa (201) 578-2675 Merchant Express (201) 589-5884

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Brazilian Voice (201) 955-1137 News from Brazil (718) 746-0169 Portugal-Brasil News (212) 228-2958 The Brasilians (212) 382-1630

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Brasilia (212) 869-9200 Brazi12000 (212) 877-7730 Brazilian Pavillion (212) 758-8129 Cabana Carioca (212) 581-8088 Indigo Blues (212) 221-0033 S.O.B. , (212) 243-4940

••,,,9'''"9"1'4* Barb Tour Service (201) 313-0996 International Sandny (718) 699-2900 Mystical Destinations (718) 956-1630 Nascente Travel (718) 545-0608 Odyssea Travel Service (212) 826-3019 Santos Dumont Int. (212) 764-5680

(415) 586-2276 Mus1callnstruments Tamborim & Samba (415) 871-2201

Varig (415) 986-5737 Vasp (800) 732-VASP

Phys1c1an Dr. Guilherme Salgado

Attorney

(415) 832-6219 Pnntmg

Ralph Baker (510) 444-8100

M. C. Printing (510) 268-8967

Auto Repair

Publications

Nel'!'n AutoRepair (415) 673-6868 Matts Auto Body (415) 565-3560

Brazil Today (510) 223-5190 News from Brazil (415) 648-5966

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Restaurants

Banco do Brasil (415) 398-4814. Beauty Salon Bibbo (415) 421-BIBO Carmen's International (415) 433-9441 DalvenHair Design (415) 433-7646 Neyde's (415) 681-�355 B1ke Repa1r West Bike (415) 241-9125 Clubs B.A.S.O. (415) 661-2788 Bay Area Brasilian Club (415) 334-0106

Consulate Brazilian Consulate

Travel Agenc1es

(415) 981-8170 Dance. Instruction Aquarela (510) 548-1310 Brazil Culture & Arts (510) 215-8202 Ginga Brllsil (510) 428-0698 Escola Nova de Samba (415) 661-4798 Samba do Corafiio (415) 826-2588 Samba, Swing & Suor (415) 282-7378 Dental Care Roberto Sales, DDS (510) 451-8315

California Produce

[HmD:!•f}j•'dflll•l•fi Clube Bras. San Diego (619) 295-0842 Sunday Night Cl. Brazil (619) 222-6911

WlnleleJIQ$£1•1•11W Brazil Imports (619) 234-3401

•�fl1•1•hi'1Pif1•1i¥ Vigo-Calirornia (619) 479-VJGO

Instruction

Money Rem1ttance

MUSIC Fogo na Roupa (510) 635-8406

Area

Banco do Brasil (202) 857-0320 Banco do Est. de S. Paulo (202) 682-1151

Portuguese - A. Frame (510) 339-9289 Portuguese Lang. Serv. (415) 587-4990 Via Brazil (415) 673-0262 Vi go (415) 863-0218 West Brazil (415) 695-9258

ashington DC

Banks

(415) 586-6200 (408) 947-8511

Ivan Porto (800) 314-4826

RioRoma (415) 921-3353 Santini Tours (510) 843-2363 Tucanos Travel (415) 454-9961

Transbrasil (202) 775-9180 Varig (202) 331-8913 Vasp (202) 822-8277

Food

HGC Imp. Wholesale

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Sunset Soccer Supply (415) 753-2666 Port. Lang. Services (415) 587-4990 Raimundo Franco (415) 285-8364

Brazilian Coffee Dist.

San Diego

Bahia Cabana (415) 861-4202 Cafe do Brasil (415) 626-6432 Cafe Mardi Gras (415) 864-6788 Canto do Brasil (415) 626-8727 UttleRio (415) 441-3344 Michelangelo Cafe (415) 986-4058 Nino's (510) 845-9303 Taqueria Goyaz (415) 821-4600

TranslatiOn

Computer Micro net (415) 665-1994

( 415) 648-5966

Wlf'291•!U9ilj1$W Atlantictur (800) 535-0942 Brazilian Wave (305) 561-3788 BTB Tours (800) BRASJL-4 Discover Brazil Tours (800) 524-3666 Euroamerica (305) 358-3003 International Tours (800) 822-1318 Luma Travel (305) 374-8635 Monark Travel (305) 374-5855

San

New York Jersey

Marcos Silva (510) 945-0138 Terra Sui (415) 752-9782 Viva Brazil (415) 342-8508 Voz do Brazil

Clubs & Assoc1at1ons Braz. Am. Cult. I n st. (202) 362-8334 Inst. of Brazil. Business (202) 994-5205 Embassy Embaixada do Brasil (202) 745-2700 Travel Agenc1es Intern. Discount Travel (703) 750-0101 Washington Travel (703) 527-6977

NEWS from BRAZIL- APRIL 1995

REAL ESTATE

Se voce esta pensando em comprar a sua casa propria ligue para mim hoje mesmo.

Em qualquer lugar do pais podemos ajuda los a realizar esse sonho.

0 BRASIL E TODA A AMERICA DO SUL E CENTRAL Faga sua remessa com seguranga e rapidez

(703) 548-0700

...........

VA 22305

PASSAGENS AEREAS E SERVIC?OS DE REMESSA

---�

REMESSA DE D,DLARES PARA

REALToR•

McEneamey Associates, Inc.

1:i) Alexandria,

TRAVEL AGENCY

Licenciados pelo Departamento de Bancos

DEBORA JACKSON

3637 Russell Road

� ADAMS

Ligue gratis para

1-800-548-8052

BR AZI

Amen Santo's

CULTURAL CENTER

iij�lJN�:-B�•·"",: "'···"-·

SANTA MONICA

(310) 397-3667 CAPOEIRA

PORTUGUESE

MARTIAl ARTS

FOR BEGINIIERS

AFRO-BRAZILIAN

CULTURAL

PERCUSSION

EVEN 1 S

0 DE TODOS

1 0826 Venice

City, CA 90232

(310) 827-91

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TO THE TOURIST THE SHEER VARIETY OF NEW AND UNUSUAL TYPES OF FRUIT CAN BE AN OVERWHELMING EXPERIENCE. THE NORTH

Wouldn't it be gre ,_._��.· cu more about the �� awaiting you in Br left on a trip to tha Authors Joan and avid Pet have just written a' ook o fhos � ... who answered witlt Eat Smarl in Brazil: Ho tQ: Decipher the Menu, Kno tne Market Foods and Emb Tasting Adventure is a pr

and comprehensive sour The Petersons have travel throughout Brazil, researching the cuisine an sampling foods in the markets restaurants and in Brazilian homes. We offer here a trailer of this adventure. There is much mo Wr.Jil&��·came from. The b guide to help in or list of foods and fl shopping tips for outdoor food and spice markets, Portuguese phrases for ordering or buying food and some fascinating tidbits about Brazilian cuisine and folklore.

The northern region of Brazil has seven states: Amazonas, Pani, Acre, Rondonia. Amapa. Roraima and Tocantins. Their combined area in cludes almost all of Brazil's large portion of the great Amazon River, its tributaries and the rain forest, collec tively called Amazonia. This region contains the most diverse collection of species on earth. In the early 1600s the Portuguese asserted their claim to the northern region of Brazil. expelling French, English and Dutch intruders who had set up small outposts in the region. Our Lady of Presepio Fort was estab lished in 1616 at the site of the present-day city of Belem, strategi cally placed at the southern entrance of the Amazon river. The Portuguese also set up several forts in the Ama zon basin. including one that is now the citv of Manaus. By the middle of the eig hteenth century there were about fifty settlements along the river banks. The north underwent little fur ther development until the latter part of the nineteenth century when the rubber boom catapulted the cities of Manaus and Belem into great pros peri�' and importance. The euphoria was short-Ji,·ed, however, because the success of plantation mbber in Ma laysia. an indu stry started with smuggled Amazon mbber tree seeds, drove down rubber prices and ended Brazil"s monopoly in 1912. Today, mining. manufacturing. lumbering and. in Manaus. free-trade zone sta tus. sustain the economy. Many visi tors to Manaus and Belem, still the area·s two major population centers, spend a day or two exploring these historic and friendly cities before tak ing off on excursions on the river or into the rain forest. The Amazon basis was home to Tupi Indians. relatives of the same tribe of Indians who met the first Portuguese arrivals on the northeast coast. Their diet of manioc. corn. beans. yams. peanuts. peppers. wild fruits and fresh fish is still very much in evidence today among the i"nhabit-

ants of the north. Much of the popula tion lives in small settlements i n houses built on stilts along the main rivers. or along the maze of narrow channels called igarapes. formed when the river floods and cuts through a region of the jungle. These inhabit ants of the hinterlands. or cahodos, are of mixed Portuguese and Indian ancestry. For many, growing and la boriously detoxifying the poisonous variety of manioc grown on nearby land above the flood level is a way of life. The coarse meal produced from these tubers is a complement to C\'Cr� meal, sprinkled generously o,·cr just about anything. The cuisine of the north draws heavily on its Indian heritage. One of the best-known dishes is palo no tucupi, duck marinated in lemon juice. oil and garlic, then roasted. and fi nally boiled in tucupi, a snucc made with the liquid extrncted from grated manioc tubers and sea soned " it h jambu leaves and chicory . .Jnmhu is an intriguing jungle plant whose leaves and stem produce a Ycry faint numbing sensation in the lips and tongue. This herb is also an important component of a flayorful seasoned soup called tncnca, which contains dried shrimp and tapioca topped with tucupi sauce. lt is traditionally scf\·cd in bowls fashioned out of gourds. or cuins. The classic dish lllalllyoba IS a stew containing Yarious dried. smoked and fresh meats. along with giblets. It is flavored with ground manioc lea Yes. or mnnivn, which also color the stc\\ a dark green. Many dishes feature fish. a basic dietary component in the north. Some preparations use a spice called urucu(m), or col01·mt, as a flm·oring and coloring. Urucu(m) is mndc by coarsely grinding the orange-red seeds from the berries of the annatto tree. The spice is known in the United States bv the name annatto or achiotc. Ca/deiradais a popular fish stc" simi lar to a bouillabaisse. The most Yalu able commercial fish of the region is the mammothpirnrucu, marketed pri marily in a dried salted form. Its deli cious flesh is quite meaty. almost like chicken. A popular dish made "·ith this fish is pasta de pirnrucu seco no Ieite de coco, or a slice of fish scrYcd in a delicious coconut sauce. Certain inedible parts of this fish arc also valued. The large brown-tipped scales are sold as fingernail files and arc used in a variety of handicrafts. espe cially masks. EYcn the tongue is re cycled, its raspy surface useful as a grater. Another economically impor-

tant fish featured on menus is the experience Brazil, try as many of these tasty tnmbaqtu. This amazing fish is fmits as vou can! equipped \\ ith powerful. molar-like Amorig the palm fruits are pupu nha, n�ai, burili (miri ti), pataua, teeth for crushing its food- the fruits bncabn, IIICllllll'i arrl uxi . Pupunha, and seeds. especially the hard seeds of the rubber tree. thnt fall into the ''hich has yellow. orange-red or green water of the flooded forest. A re skin when ripe. is usually sold with gional specialty is picnd111ho de the fmit still in clusters on the stems. tmnhnqui, ''hich is a mixture of fish It is never eaten raw. Rather. it is pieces serYcd with ricc.jnmbu leaves boiled and eaten warm, often with and toasted manioc meal. The beauti honey placed in the depression left by fully colored luctttmre, or peacock the large seed. The small, blue-black bass. is a!so a prized food fish. It is the palm fruit called a�ai is made into a co,·etcd catch of fly-fishermen \Yho juice that becomes a purple paste when arc beginning to discover the thrills manioc meal and sugar are added. The mixture tastes somewhat like of angling for it in the Amazon basin. black raspberries. Colorful cooking A considerable number of catfish. such as sumhi111, cnparan and .filhole, can oils can be extracted from some of the be samplcd.Fi /hole arc juvenile speci palm fruits. Burili generates a red oil, pntnua a light-green oil, and bacaba a mens of the largest fish of the Ama yellow one. zon. the giant piraibn. ''hich reaches Some other fruits to look for are lengths of I 0 feet and weights of 300 cupu n�u. c n c n u, grnvioln. cnja, pounds. All of these fish must be tried bncuri, cnja manga, jaca, murici, ata in the restaurants and seen in the mar or ji·ut a do conde, i nga. }ambo, kets! marnct!Ja and biriba. The aromatic Some of the most traditional and cupuaru 1 s an easy favorite. This fairly bcst-lo\ cd dishes nat1ve to the Ama large (up to I 0 inches long). oblong zon region arc made with turtle fruit with a tough brown exterior and (lartnruga) and its eggs. <1nd manatee light-yellow pulp is closely related to rpe1xe-hol). Although these arc en cacnu. ''hose seeds are the source of dangered species and won't appear on chocolate. Cupua�u forms the basis the menu. some restaurants still offer of 111;111� popular desserts. including them. cnkes. tortes and puddings. The sweet Perhaps Bra;il's greatest treasure juice made from cupun�11 pulp be is her bount\. of fruit Mam yaricties comes a delicious drink and is an of trop1cal fruit arc not culti\'atcd but ingredient m many desserts such as grow free!� in the wetland areas or in tortn do para. which specifically fea the uplnnds. Some arc palm fruits. As tures the familiar Brazil nut called is true for so manY of the natural cnstnnhn do para, native to the state features of the land: most fruits bear of Par{l. The grnviola is a somewhat Tupi Indian names. E\·cn toda� some lopsided dark-green fmit with numer of these fruits arc unknown in other ous soft spines on the surface. It makes regions of the countr�. particularly in a maf\·clous flavoring for icc creams, the south. To the tourist the sheer or soJTeles. vancty of nc\\ and ullliStinl types can T\\ o of the most exceptional fruits be an O\ cnYhclming experience. arc guarana and cnju. Guarana is one Bn11.i Iians usc fruits in mam . ''avs. of the bcst-lo\'cd fruits in Brazil and They arc eaten ra\\ . made into j uic.cs. much folklore is based around it. The jellies. marmalades. compotes. fer edible p;1rt is the black seed within mented bc,·cragcs such as wines and some white. fleshy material. When liqueurs. syrups. flm orings for ice ripe. the fruit has an uncanny resem cream. desserts of endless combina blance to the human eye as it "peers" tions. and in mam insl<lnces made out of its opened. bright orange-red into a S\\ eet firm IJaste of fruit pulp capsule. Ingesting the seeds produces mixed " ith sug<1r. The names for these high energy levels. which the Indians pastes typical!� end with "ada." For attributed to supernatural powers, but example. the fnnt we kno\Y as gum·a ,,·hich ,,.c no\Y know is the effect of is called goinhn by the Brazili<�ns. caffeine. A legend of the Satare-Maue and in the form of a sweet pnste be Indians explains why the seeds re comes �otnhndn. semble e Yes. A beautiful Indian In Mannus and cspcciall� Bctem. " oman n;)mcd Onhia11t11ncabe gave the outdoor markets arc a showcase birth to a child sired bY a mysterious for the regional fruits The !·oods & being. This child was k.illcd for eating Flal'llr.\ (iuide 111 tlHS book provides some forbidden nuts. and at his burial detailed dcscnptions of fruits and site. a guarana bush grew from his other produce to help \\ ith their iden eye. According to the legend. the bush tification 111 the m<1rkcts. To truly ·

also brought forth a child from whom the Maue tribe descended. To the In dians, the seeds not onh were a stimu lant, they were an apl-irodisiac and a means to prolong life. They roasted and ground the seeds, mixed them with manioc meal. and rolled the re sulting paste into sticks. which were allowed to harden. Using the rough surfaced tongue of the pirarucu fish as a grater, they broke off small pieces of the dried guarana paste and rehvdrated them in water to make a driitk. Guarana is available todav in a variety of forms. including a· very popular carbonated soft drink of the same name, a syrup, a powder. in capsules and in sticks made by the caboclos. Caju, or cashew apple, is a red or yellow fruit, resembling a bell pep per, with a pear-like taste. The cas he\\' apple is not the real fruit. ho" ever. but the swollen flower stem. The true fruit is within the kidney-shaped sac dangling from it. Most unexpectedly, inside the sac. waiting to be roasted. is a cashe\\ nut!

AT THE HEART OF AFRO-BRAZILIAN (AFRO B A H/AN ) CUISINE -

ARE THREE INGREDIENTS THAT GIVE A UNIQUE FLAVOR AND PIQUANCY TO THE DISHES: COCONUT MILK, HOT

MALAGUETA

PEPPERS AND A PALM OIL CALLED

DENDE

THE NORTHEAST

The northeast region of Br;ml is comprised of nine states: Maranhiio. PiauL Ceara. Rio Grande do None. Paraiba, P ernambuco. Alagoas. Sergipe and Bahia. This part of Bra1.i I consists of two quite different ter rains: the vast semi-arid interior and the fertile coastal plains. The drought stricken backlands of the northeast. the sertao, are characterized b' sub sistence farming and cattle and goat ranching on estates run b� cowboys called vaque1ros. This is in marked contrast to the narro" strip of land along the northeast coast " ith its lush tropical vegetation and hundreds of miles of magnificent beaches. All of the states have ocean frontage ,,·ith stretches of sand so fine as to be compared to walking on clouds. This

area is emerging as Brazil's primal)' treats on behalf of the plantation mis tourist destination. On the coast, where tresses. Many ultimately were able to the sugar empire began and prospered buy their freedom when they had ac bv the sweat of slave labor. there is a cumulated enough money from their vibrant African culture. centered in small portion of the profits. Today's the city of Salvador da Bahia, where Baianas. descendants of these proud its influence is stronger than any women, offer the same tidbits and where else in Brazil. still wear the traditional white tur Beginning in the colonial era, some bans, bouffant white skirts and lacy of the slaves imported from Africa tunics, accented with many strands of sen·ed as cooks for the sugar barons beads and jangly bracelets. On the trays of the Baianas are in their grand mansions, and they dominated the pans full of batter plantation kitchens for b e a n fritters known as acaraje for most of the 350 L vears that slaven· and pots of sput existed. A distinc tering dende cook lagarta a mostarda e champagne tive Brazilian cui round steak baked in mustard" and ing oil, the bright champagne. red-orange oil ex sine evolved as lagarto recheado stuffed round these cooks impro tracted from the steak. nuts of a West Af vised on many of lagosta com Ieite de coco lobster their own tr-adi rican palm tree that with coconut milk. was successfully tional dishes and on lagosta grelhada grilled lobster. transplanted to those of the Indi lagosta grelhada na brasa charcoal BraziL This oil fla ans and the Portu broiled lobster. vors and colors the guese masters. At lagostinha ao molho de queijo de fritter at the same the heart of Afro blifala a small lobster in a sauce made from buffalo cheese. Dried time. Brazilian (AfroBa laminu de surubim defumado shrimp, pulverized hian) cuisine arc thinly sliced smoked su111bim fish. with shells. is a tra three ingredients leitao assado com abacaxi roasted ditional compo that give a unique suckling pig with pineapple. nent ofacarajeand flavor and pi leitao pururucaroasted suckling pig many other dishes. quanc� to the basted with hot oil to make the skin Close at hand are dishes: c oconut crisp and bumpy. bowls of the easily milk. hot 11/alaQue leitao recheado roasted, stuffed recognized briglit suckling pig. ta peppers m; d a lentilha com paio lentils with pork yellow paste called palm oil calledden sausage. vatapa. the most de .\Ialaguera pep licor de mel a liqueur of vodka, renowned of the pers arc considered honey, cloves, cinnamon and grated many mashes o r so essential that a orange rind. purees developed container of them. lingua com passas tongue with rai by the Africans, minced in oil. usu sins. along with mounds ally appears on ta lingua fresca com pure de batatas u n sh elled of bles along "·ith salt fresh beef tongue w1th mashed pota s hrimp, fresh or toes. and black pepper. linguado frito fried sole. dried, and other Tra,·elcrs to lingiii�a frita fried pork sausage, or c o n d iments and Salvador da Bahia pork and beef sausage. sauces for further mav have thcir first lombinho tropeiro pork loin with embellishment of encounter with its beans and toasted manioc meaL the bean cakes. famous cuisine as lombo assado pork loin roast. Also Traditional the' stroll in the called lombo de porco. candies. cakes and cit,· streets. From lombo de pirarucu grelhado grilled puddings of many Jabuleiros. large loin of pira111c11 tish. types can be found trays or table tops lombo de porco sec lombo assado. lombo vacum beef sirloin steak. on the sweet trays. set up along the lulas recheadas stuffed squid. The African food sidewalks. black tradition was not Bahian women sell rich in desserts but both savory and the slaves in thecasas grandeslearned sweet home-m - ade tidbits. Their pres to make and then modify them, often ence is announced b,- a whiff of the by adding indigenous ingredients. aromaticdende oi/siiillllering in large Man) recipes were obtained from the pots. Portuguese nuns who brought to Bra It is said that the histon· of the zil their knack of dessert cookery. region resides in the food pre ared by Sweets were characterized by the la\' these picturesque Bahian women. or ish use of eggs and sugar, and coconut Bnianas. In earlier times. as slaves, milk was often substituted for cow's they brought to market a variety of

IS FOR LEITAO

dishes. The sauce known as molho de milk. Representative confections in acaraje contCl ins dried shrimp, cilantro clude the irresistible egg and grated and ginger and it complements the coconut upside-down dessert known as quindim, and cakes of manioc flour, bean frilters called acaraje, and several famous dishes eggs, c ashews or such as caruru, efo peanuts, and brown andxinxim. A1olho sugar called pe-de THE WAY TO DO IT de pi menta e /imiio moleque, or "little is a pepper and boy's foot." An Moqueca de Camarao other version of lemon sauce ser Shrimp stew, Ballian style. Serves 4. ved with moque pe-de-mo/eque, one Plan ahead - the shrimp needs to cas and the glori that is more like a marinate for 30 minutes. ous national dish dark peanut brittle, of Brazil. jeijoa is also available, as JUICE OF 1 LEMON da. Molho de azei are patties of white 1 ONION, FINELY CHOPPED te de dende e vina or brown coconut 1 CLOVE GARLIC, MINCED gre contains dende candy known as 1-2 TABLESPOONS WIIITE VIN oil and vinegar cocada, neatly ar EGAR \12 TEASPOON SALT and it accents a ranged in stacks. 1 POUND FRESH SHRIMP, SHEL codfish and coco The dark version of LED AND DEVEINED nut m i lk d i s h cocada contains 1 TEASPOON FRESH CILANTRO, called bacalhau burned brown sugar. CHOPPED COlli Ieite de coco An interesting con 2 TABLESPOONS TOMATO and a stew called called fection PASTE escaldado. Molho aca9it, made of corn BLACK PEPPER TO TASTE de nag6, named meal and rice flour 1 CUP THIN COCONUT MILK for one of the Af and bundled in ba Y2 CUP THICK COCONUT MILK tribes rican nana leaves, and a 2-3 TABLESPOONS DENDE OIL brought to Brazil. rich pudding of tapi Make a marinade (vinha d 'al/w) with contains pulver oca and coconut lemon, onion, garlic, vinegar and ized dried shrimp called CUSCIIZ de salt. Marinate the shrimp for 30 min and okra, and it taptoca also tempt utes. Put mixture into a sauce pan the sweet tooth. This accompanies and add cilantro, tomato paste and cuscuz (couscous) stews such as co black pepper to taste. Add thin coco zido. was a rather liberal nut milk and cook over low heat adaptation of a non In Pelourinho until the shrimp are cooked. Add the sweet Moorish dish square in Salvador thick coconut milk and dende oil. that probably came da Bahia there is a Continue cooking for another 5 min utes. Serve with rice. to Brazil with the marvelous goverslaves. nment-run restau In the plantation rant school called SENAC (,\'en·iv·o de Fducac;ao Na kitchens, cake making deYeloped into cionnl de l rl es Culuu1rias). which a competitive and rather secret i \ c an. Recipes for superrich. elaborate cakes offers an inc:xpensive. allyou-can-eat were devised ancl given appealing. buffet containing a wide selection of catchy names. oftetr related to the the famous AfroBahian dishes. This plantation owner or historical events sampler also includes a variet) of of the time. Thus there arc cakes. or desserts and it is the best introduction bolos, named bolo cavalcanfia ndholo the trm clcr can haYc to the culinan· souza leiio. Bolo 13 de maio com heritage from Africa. The establisl-i memorates the dav the slaves \\ere mcnt sells a booklet of recipes made emancipated. May· 13. 1988. Others in the school: it may now be available have clever names like bolo espern in English as \\ell ·ns in Portuguese. . marido ("hoping for a husband . cake) The role of African religion as an and bolo quero mais (""1 1rm11 111ore·· inspiration for cooking is especially cake). These recipes \\ere careful!� e\ iclelll in the cit Y of Salvador da guarded and faithfully passed on Bahia. Many of tlie dishes prepared through the generations. Sometimes. by the slm·es originated from the tra when the recipes were wriUcn dO\Yn. dition of leaving offerings to their the master would deliberate\\ gods. This importance given to food - · e:xcludc a key ingredient. can be witnessed by arranging with a Afro-Bahian cuisine has four trn travel office to Yisit any number of ditional sauces. or molhos, that ac lerreiros where the African rites of compnny its special main dishes. and Cnndomhl£> arc obscn·ed. Since the all include the indispensable hot deities. or orixas, each have to be malagueta pepper- actuall) a chili. scrYcd a ritual meal that is prepared Each sauce accompanics specifie mCli n \\it hout dc \·iation from the customary .

recipe, the continued presence of the famous dishes of the slaves appears assured. These foods for the gods are also delicious fare for the mortals! Outside of Salvador da Bahia, there is less African influence in the cui sine. Plenty of fresh fish and seafood are available in the coastal regions and are featured menu entries. A type of crab called aratu is popular, as is sururu, a variety of clam. Seafood ste\vs feature several combinations of lobster, squid, oysters, octopus, crab and shrimp. Some typical dishes are siri mole. soft-shelled crab cooked in a spicy sauce, pelxe na telha, fish cooked and served on tiles, agulhas ji-itas, fried needlefish and casquinha de caranguejo. cooked crabmeat mixed with coconut milk, tomatoes and seasonings returned to the shell and baked. A traditional Portuguese specialty is dobradinha com feijiio hranco, a tripe dish with white beans in a tomato-based sauce. Thin. crisp pancakes of fried tapioca with coco nut. called beijusor tapioca com coco, make wonderful appetizers, as do breaded crab claws known as unhas de caranguejo. An interesting small green squash with a bumpy surface, known as maxixi, is made into a tasty stew calledmaxixadawith dried meat, shrimp and tomatoes. Piriio, a soft mash usually of manioc meal, is a frequent side dish. A preparation called arroz de cuxit, found only in the state of Maranhao. is made -ivith rice and vegetables seasoned with both the young leaves ofvinagreira, or red sorreL and its sesame-like seeds. Exotic tropical fruits of all de scriptions, many essentially unknown even in other parts of the country, abound in the market place. To name just a few. there areacerola, maracuja, pilanga, ata or .fruta do conde, jaca, caJII. sapoli, graviola, pito mba, cupua9u, cajit, jaboticaba, mangaba, and imhu (umbu). A favorite is the ata or fruta do conde. Its delicious white pulp tastes somewhat like a pear. The acerola, a smalL red fmit with three longitudinal furrows on its surface, makes a refreshing, tart juice with a cherry-like navor and high vitamin C content. The most frequently encoun tered varieties of maracujit, the wrin kly passion fmit, are yellow. purple or red. Its many small seeds are sur rounded by a delicious, juicy pulp, which can be scooped out with a spoon and strained from the seeds. The pitanga, another small red fmiL has deep longitudinal ribs on the surface. Try to taste them all! Most hotels offer sumptuous breakfasts that al-

ways_ include several different JUice choices. In or out of season, thanks to the availability of frozen fruit pulp. juices and ice creams made from these fruits can be savored. The Food" & Flavors Guide in this book descnbes a great many of the fruits in detail to make their identification in the mar kets easier. On the street, juice from sugar cane, caldo de cana, is squeezed on the spot, using an elaborate and often noisy metal contraption. Sugar cnne from the northeast is famous for an other popular drink derived from it. a brandy known as cachO(;a. It can be served straight f o r strong stomachs but more typically is blended with fresh fruit juice to make coolers known as batidas . When cachar;a is com bined with crushed lemon and sugar. it be comes the n ational drink. the caipirinha. The lemons in Brazil are small, green and tart -more like our limes. Street vendors also sell a delicious treat. called either queijo de coa/ho or queijo assado, made with a square of firm cheese that is barbe cued and served on a skewer. A totally different life style developed in the "other northeast" inland from the verdant and tropical coastal re gion of the northeast ern states. By the 1600s, descendants of the Por tuguese colonists. har dy people of mixed In dian and PotttJ.guese heritage called cabo clos, populated the harsh. semi-arid back lands. They established cattle ranches. or estrinctas, to pro vide beef for the coastal region and became known as vaqueiros, Brazil's cowboys of the northeast. Their herds were derived from the cattle brought in 1549 to Bahi:J from Portugal by the first go\'ernor of Br:J zil, Tome de Sousa. The soil \\'aS poor in the sertao and the animals h:Jd li !lie to eat except the lem·es from shrubs and trees. The people subsisted pri marily on corn. beans and manioc. and si.m-dried meat from their emaci ated cattle.

The sertiio is often inhospitable, as long periods of drought follow brief episodes of rain. After a rainfall, the moisture rapidly evaporates in the hot sun and the land dries out again. Not much grows except the desert-like caatinga, a type of sparse vegetation characterized by stunted trees, cactus and thorn-covered bushes. In periods of persistent drought. the coastal cit ies become inundated bv masses of sertanejos, as the inhabitants of the serti'io are called. looking for refuge. The vaqueiro is unlike thegm./cho, the cattleman on the rich prairies of the southern region of Brazil. The northeastern cowboy tends to be somewhat downtrodden and re signed to the harsh life

in the dn interior. His traditional clothes are made of sturdY leather to protect himself from the sharp thorns of thecaatingawhile tending the herds of cattle and goats. Once a year. in full leather regalia. the cattlemen gather together to cel ebrate a special outdoor Missa do r·aquetro, or Co\\ boy's Mass. in the Pernambuco backlands in the city of Serrita. remaining on their ho. r ses dunng the ceremony. Included in the blessings are some that arc specifi cally said for the cowboys' gear. their hats. saddles and saddlebags contain ing foods from the backlands that they brought to share. Typically this

food includes manioc meal, queijo do sertiio, a popular hard cheese made mostly of goat's milk, and rapadura, hard chunks of raw brown sugar eaten as candy. Drie-d meat is an important food stuff in the sertiio and a common ingredient in the dishes of the region. Par;oca is a mixture of pounded, sun-dried meat and toasted manioc meal and. because it keeps well, it is a staple for the vaqueiros, who travel great distances rounding up stray cattle. Another typical dish is baiao de dois, rice and beans with sun-dried meat in coconut milk and topped with melted goat cheese. Cuscuz de fuba, a mixture of chicken with corn meal and coconut, buchada, a tripe dish, and bode assado, roasted goat, are also identified with the area. The northeast is rich in folklore. One of the most popular folk celebrations is the burlesque pan tomime called bum ba-meu-boi, or "hit my bull." Appar ently originating as a pagan festival, it has become part of the repertoire of the winter festival days in June calledFestas J1minas. Its perfor mances are traced to colonial times when it served as a diver sion for the slaves on the cattle estates. As is typical with folklore. the tale has manv versions but the general theme is a satire pitting the b l a c k slave. or the sometimes lowly worker. against the oppressive master. The basic plot involves a slave, or a vaque1ro, who gets into some sort of mischief that causes the death or disfiguration of the master's prize bull and finishes joyfully with a miracu lous resuscitation of the animal. It is enacted with many extravagantly dressed characters who sing and dance, musicians and a bull. the central char acter. made of a wooden frame cov ered with brightly colored cloth and exaggerated horns gaily decorated with ribbons. Available from Ginkgo Press, PO Box 5346, Madison, WI 53705, Sl2.95 plus S2 s/h. You can call (608) 233-5�88, fax to (608) 233-0053, or try your favorite bookseller.

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