A Moment of Serendipity - A Vintage Cartier Collection

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INTRODUCTION

As a follow up of their successful collaboration in 2019, Lotus Arts de Vivre and London’s Obsidian Objets d’Art are once again teaming up to present a second exhibition that comprises not only vintage Cartier timepieces but also iconic vintage jewellery from The House of Cartier curated by the world renowned vintage Cartier expert Harry Fane.

Fane is acknowledged to be one of the world’s leading experts on vintage Cartier watches and jewellery. Having closely studied and traced vintage Cartier pieces for over 40 years, there is little he does not know about these beautifully crafted items which have been the by-word for elegance and sophistication for more than a century. When the seed of interest was first planted in Fane’s mind, there was relatively little interest in Jewellery and works of art produced by Cartier in the eras that had established their fame.

An auction in New York (The Robert Green Collection) in 1978 which was quickly followed,

in 1981, by the first Cartier Retrospective Exhibition were the two events that established ‘vintage Cartier’ as important collectors’ items.

Today, the interest is intense. Rare pieces regularly sell for millions of dollars and great pieces from the golden years of the 1920s and 30s are extremely hard to find.

Cartier was established by Louis-Francois Cartier in 1840 and was essentially put on the map by his son, Alfred Cartier and his three grandsons Louis, Pierre and Jacques. Cartier, under their guidance, became the most famous jewellery House in the world. They became official purveyors to many European Royal houses giving them the reputation as ‘the jeweller of kings and the king of jewellers’.

In the early part of the 20th Century, Cartier was still creating relatively traditional jewellery which was in the style of the day. However, as their reputation expanded with customers from Europe, Russia and America visiting the Paris showroom to indulge in their love for fine jewellery so Cartier’s style evolved with the fashion of the times. Among these early loyal customers were the Grand Dukes of Russia, the Maharajas of India and millionaires from the Americas. All were phenomenally wealthy and each had a passion for splendid jewellery which was as much to do with status than a real understanding of fine gem stones.

The post WW1 period of the 1920s and 1930s – known as The Crazy Years - was probably one of the greatest eras of human creativity. Ingenuity and originality was all around. According to Fane, Paris was the center of this new world order and ‘fashion’ was the heartbeat. Creative personalities abounded such as Diaghilev and the Ballets Russes, Coco Chanel, Picasso and Ernest Hemingway just to name a few. Jewellery became a statement and badge of membership in the exclusive world of artistic café society. It was important to be seen well dressed and bejeweled and Cartier was in the forefront of the Rue de la Paix jewellers with innovative and daring designs

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which were much in demand. Cartier’s motto was ‘never copy, only create’. With a small creative team at the heart of the Paris emporium which comprised Louis Cartier, Charles Jacqueau and the brilliant Madame Toussaint, Cartier not only stayed ahead of their competitors, these others jewellers were forced to make designs in the Cartier style to remain relevant.

Cartier’s jewellery from the glory years is now considered iconic. The designs which included mixing diamonds with coral, or making jewels mixing carved rubies, emeralds and sapphires are arguably some of the greatest design work of the 20th Century. Rock crystal and black enamel and diamonds, flexible bracelets worn in multiple versions at the same time, long diamond and emerald necklaces hanging to the waist as was the flapper fashion are recognized for their daring and dash today. And each and every item Cartier ever made used only the finest gems, fashioned into their intricate designs by Paris’s finest artisans.

Cartier is the most famous jewellery House in the world today because of what they were creating one hundred years ago but instead of fading away with time, Cartier has remained true to their motto and remained creative and at the forefront of jewellery design today.

Alongside the jewels, Cartier also was at the forefront of making gentlemen’s watches worn on the wrist more fashionable than the traditional pocket watch. This all begun back in 1907 but the Tank watch, first introduced in 1919, still stands as the high mark in elegance and style for today’s gentleman. Likewise, Cartier made exotic and jewelled clocks and cigarette cases. Jewelled powder boxes for women who were only just being allowed to apply makeup in public celebrated this freedom. Women, again only just permitted to smoke in public, were aided by Cartier with beautiful cigarette cases and jewelled lighters. The world was changing and Cartier changed with it, ever evolving, ever inventing. Even in the 1960s,

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Cartier’s vitality was undiminished and in 1967 they produced the ‘Crash’ wristwatch which is probably the most famous watch in the world today.

Whilst Obsidian Objets d’Art London is world renowned known for supplying vintage Cartier jewellery, watches, clocks and objets d’art, tucked inside their Bond Street showroom is The Red Room a treasure trove of eclectic, handcrafted gifts for men and women by today’s artisans of repute. Inspired by Cartier’s quest for innovation and craftsmanship, these unique items range from burl wood book boxes with hidden drawers, leather or rock crystal ‘vide poches’, volcanic rock paper weights, rattan and silver pencil holders, leather clocks in various colours, bright Murano glass cups rimmed with Sterling silver, or ‘Wing Nut’ note pads with a slide-out pencil. Fane explains, ‘‘it was an obvious expansion. I saw what Cartier had done and thought there was room today for small, bespoke and unusual gifts. We have a huge success in London because people are always looking for items they can’t find everywhere especially when they want a ‘special’ gift.’’

With their similar appreciation for exceptionally beautiful handcrafted items, artistry and refinement, Lotus Arts de Vivre and Obsidian Objets d’Art have therefore found their equals, their ‘twins’.

Both companies strive for artistic individuality and originality and are at the front against cheap, mass-production, and un-interesting products.

Thus, the collaboration between Bangkok’s famed Lotus and London’s famed Obsidian is very successful and rewarding.

Lotus and Obsidian are keen and honoured to share our unique collections with our loyal and esteemed clientele.

Harry Fane is known as “the man who knows more about Cartier’s watches than Cartier does”. Fane’s interest in vintage Cartier grew out of a career start at Sotheby’s New York, where he worked with contemporary American art.

He was persuaded by a friend to focus on 20th century objets d’art, where he soon found himself handling a few vintage Cartier pieces, cigarette cases, picture frames and jewelled clocks, and there was no looking back. Fane soon found himself dealing in a niche market of vintage Cartier jewellery - particularly those dating back to Cartier’s golden Art Deco years of the 1920’s and 1930’s, and also discovered his own passion for Cartier Tank watches, of which he is now the guru, nonpareil.

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Lotus Arts de Vivre, creator of fine home furnishings and exquisite handcrafted jewellery, is joining hands with Harry Fane, the world’s expert in vintage Cartier pieces, particularly jewellery and watches, to offer collectors the best of both worlds.

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When he last visited Bangkok, he had with him a selection of about 14 Cartier Tank watches, a rare, if almost impossible, occurrence as any vintage watch collector will know.

These included a rare 1920s Cartier Art Deco platinum pave diamond set enamel cord cocktail watch, a Cartier Crash, A MOMENT OF SERENDIPITY - 6

and models that were worn by Jackie Onassis, the Princess of Wales, Igor Stravinski, to name but a few. Fane’s collection is usually displayed at his private gallery, Obsidian, located in London’s exclusive Mayfair district, or accompanies Fane on his frequent trips overseas to showcase his treasures to eager collectors. He works closely with Cartier, and when he discovers a rare elusive item that he feels should belong in the Cartier Museum, he is willing to offer the piece to them first.

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With the 40-year friendship and similar appreciation for fine craftsmanship, it was inevitable that Fane and Rolf Von Bueren of Lotus Arts de Vivre would eventually connect in terms of business. The timing seemed right, considering the growing global interest in unique and exceptional handcrafted items that reflect culture and history.

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Their strength lies in the fact that both of them occupy what von Bueren describes as “a small island of what we call good taste”. Fane has all the connections of the western world, while von Bueren has been in the east long enough to know exactly what is happening on this side of the sphere. They are both experts in beautifully handcrafted objets d’art that are exceptional, and hope to join forces to showcase those items to the world.

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She knows what gets her up everyday.

He wishes for the sun to set.

She knows they will eventually meet.

He knows nothing is certain.

She knows time will conquer the strongest of walls.

And he will know the world exists just to bring them together.

LONDON TANK JC 1966 Cartier designed this model in 1922.

This example is dated to 1966.

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CARTIER SQUARE ONYX AND DIAMOND LADY’S WRISTWATCH “NAIN JAUNE” 1913-1914 In 1913, a woman would be judged as impolite if she glanced at her wristwatch. It seems almost torturous that Cartier would design a watch so compelling as the “Nain Jaune”.

The watch was named after a unique traditional French board game “Nain Jaune”. With four onyx set corners and diamonds surrounding the dial, this could not be a more stunning design.

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ANTIQUE DIAMOND LADY’S COCKTAIL WATCH 1919 It is surprising to realize that watches of this size were worn by men as well as women.

There is a famous portrait of the Maharaja of Indore in full white tie, wearing a very similar watch to this. Undoubtedly, these small and delicate diamond watches are more normally considered as lady’s watches and this one is particularly special because the case is set with carré (square) cut diamonds. This gives this watch a special brilliance and elegance.

This example is dated to March – April 1919.

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A PLATINUM, DIAMOND AND ONYX LADY’S WRISTWATCH 1919

Art Deco is associated with the 1920s, the origins of the style hark back to as early as 1910.

Art Deco reflects confidence, vigor, and optimism by using symbols of progress. Objects in this era were rarely mass-produced, however, the characteristic features of the style reflected admiration for the modernity of the machine and for the inherent design qualities of machine-made objects.

Cartier, who was no follower of fashion, adopted the severe black and white colouring of the Art Deco movement and nowhere is this more successfully illustrated than in the design of this watch. Strict white lines intersected by a solid black line is pure Art Deco.

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CARTIER ROUND PLATINUM AND DIAMOND WRISTWATCH 1919 Cartier’s tendency was to make square watches but here is a rare example of a lady’s round watch with very pretty, extended lugs. Wristwatches were a new phenomena in the early years of the 20th century. It was only in 1907 that Cartier began wristwatch making in earnest.

Of course, the Grand Duchesses and café society coquettes all rushed to Cartier for diamond set wristwatches to flash on their wrists whilst dining at Maxims.

You can imagine this elegant model in just such a setting. This example is dated to 1919.

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Cartier designed this model in 1921. This is considered to be one of Cartier’s most remarkable creations given the thinness of the case and the curve to follow the wrist. The Cintrée has been a constant model from 1921 through to the present day.

This particular model is from the Cartier London stable from the late 1960s and is defined by the lack of ‘Chemin de Fer’ and the elongated numerals.

This example is dated to 1967.

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TANK CINTRÉE - CURVED 1967 A MOMENT OF SERENDIPITY - 20

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TANK CINTRÉE - CURVED 1967

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Shirt: Vvon Sugunnasil 25 - A VINTAGE CARTIER COLLECTION

HER SOUL IS ROYALTY, HER MIND UNCROWNED

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CARTIER LONDON WHITE GOLD CINTRÉE WITH WHITE GOLD BRACELET 1967 The Cintrée was first introduced in 1921. The elongated case epitomises Cartier’s successful pursuit of elegance. This is a rare model retaining its original gold link bracelet. This example, known as ‘la petite’ is dated to 1967.

ANTIQUE DIAMOND LADY’S COCKTAIL WATCH 1927 Cartier Platinum and Diamond Watch. This example is dated to 1927.

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Suit: Vvon Sugunnasil A MOMENT OF SERENDIPITY - 30

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LONDON TANK – HOODED LUGS 1976

This watch is one of the Cartier London stable from the 1970s.

This example is dated to c.1976.

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TANK NORMALE 1917 The story of what inspired Louis Cartier to create the Tank is compelling: the shape of a Renault FT-17 tank seen from above. Cartier designed this model in 1917, it was the first Tank watch design.

This example is dated to 1929.

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CARTIER PLATINUM AND DIAMOND ‘TORTUE’ 1919 - 1920 Cartier’s earliest wristwatch model was the ‘Tonneau’ (Barrel) which had gently curving sides to the case. The next model was the ‘Tortue’ (Tortoise) which also has curved sides. This shape was to remain a classic of Cartier’s into the modern era. The diamond ‘Tortues’ were made as early as 1913. This model is particularly charming by the edition of the four round diamonds above and below the dial. This example is dated to 1919/20.

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CARTIER PLATINUM TONNEAU 1910

Cartier Tonneau shaped wristwatches can be dated back as early as 1906. These early examples have become the inspiration behind current model based on the iconic case design, such as the Cartier PrivĂŠ Tonneau. To find these watches in platinum is exceedingly rare. This example dated to 1910.

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TANK LC LATE 1960’S Originally designed in 1922 and known as the Tank à bords Arrondis (with rounded edges). It was renamed the Tank LC (for Louis Cartier in 1924).

This example is dated to late 1960s.

SQUARE TANK WITH “BATON” CHAPTERS 1959 This watch is a timelessly elegant Tank but with a minimalist dial which was a feature of Cartier in the 1950s.

This example is dated to 1959.

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TANK ALLONGÉE ELONGATED 1940 Here, Cartier has stretched the case to make a larger version of the classic Tank. The Tank Allongée is a supremely elegant and rare design. Note the tapered “eagle beak” lugs – a clever design feature that makes the watch seemingly grip the wrist. Cartier designed this model in 1921. This example is dated to c.1940.

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CARTIER PLATINUM TONNEAU 1910 45 - A VINTAGE CARTIER COLLECTION

CARTIER “CRISTALLOR” 1975

The case of this large model watch emulates the emerald cut familiar in diamond terminology.

This model was made in the 1970’s and sold exclusively in the Cartier Paris Boutique.

This example is dated to c.1975.

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A SQUARE DIAMOND SET LADY’S EVENING WRISTWATCH 1911 - 1912 This is a superb example of Cartier’s 1920s diamond set wristwatches. The open dial surrounded by rose cut diamonds with open work rectangular diamond set lugs. All these early wristwatches have very thin movements and the cases sit very comfortably on the wrist. These watches were elegant, delicate and feminine and this watch combines all three of these attributes. This example is dated to 1911-12.

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CARTIER PLATINUM AND DIAMOND TANK ‘NORMALE’ 1919 51 - A VINTAGE CARTIER COLLECTION

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This version is a stunning model set with rose cut diamonds.

The whole Cartier Tank story began with this simple square watch and this model exemplifies all of Cartier’s endeavors in a beautiful and elegant cocktail watch.

This example is dated to 1922.

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When Louise Cartier came out with the prototype of the Tank, it is clear that its design is a radical step beyond its predecessors.

Released in 1919, the bold, square case was radically and visually ‘stretched’ into a rectangle by the brancards that extended its sides to form the lugs.

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CARTIER LONDON ‘CRASH’ 1987

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The ‘Crash’ watch was created in 1967.

From 1967 to approximately 1975, 24 ‘Crash’ watches were produced and the production continued in 1984-87 when a further twelve watches were created. These twenty-four are the only ‘Crash’ watches created by Cartier, London. Cartier has gone on to make different versions, all smaller but made in their Swiss or Paris workshops.

Never again were Crash watches ever made in London.

These few examples are considered to be the pinnacle of the extraordinary but very limited production of Cartier, London from the late 1960s to the mid 1980s. They are very much sought after by collectors and aficionados alike. This example is dated 1987.

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A MOMENT OF SEREDIPITY Styled by Kontee Pamaranont Makeup by Ekarine Wongakanit Hair by Phoontouch Lertmanorat Produced by Sivika Prakobsantisukh Photographed by Nat Prakobsantisuk Assisted by Ekkapong Tantiponprasert, Jumpol Siriin Models Dena from KISSMODELS, Mark from Red Modelling Catalog designed by Brains & Brawn Co., Ltd.

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41/21 RAMA 3 ROAD, CHONGNONSI, YANNAWA, BANGKOK 10120

31 BRUTON STREET, MAYFAIR, LONDON, W1J6QS

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TEL : (+44) 020-7930 8606 FAX : (+44) 020-7839 5834 EMAIL : info@hfane.com A MOMENT OF SERENDIPITY - 58