Food/Drink: Food news and what to try this week in Boulder County

MATT CORTINA

YOU NAME IT at(West(End( Tavern.((Brunch( only.)($15.(926( Pearl(St.,( Boulder, thewestend tavern.com.(

TRY THIS WEEK: YOU NAME IT@ WEST END TAVERN

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Q Bites with Butchers Returns to Blackbelly Tickets(for( Blackbelly’s(first(Bites(with(Butchers( event(on(April(17(are(now(on(sale.(A($90(ticket( gets(you(access(to(a(butchery(and(cooking(demo( with(Head(Butcher(Isaac(Sullenger(and(Chefs( Hosea(Rosenberg(and(Arun(AstraelisG(hors( d’oevres(and(a(spread(of(foodG(cocktails(and( local(beerG(and(more(goodies.(The(April(event’s( theme(is(“CHARCbite:(The(Making(of( Charcuterie(and(Cured(Meats.”(Head(to(blackL belly.com/upcomingLevents(for(tickets(and(info( on(other(Bites(with(Butchers(events.

THE PLEASURE OF(West(End(Tavern’s(brunch(menu(is(not(limited(to( $3(mimosas(and($5(bloody(marys.(No,(the(kitchen’s(brunch(plates(—( from(chicken(and(waffles(to(huevos(rancheros(and(brisket(benedict(—( are(exceptional(upstylings(of(classic(midLmorning(staples.(We(tried(the You Name It plate(on(a(recent(visit,(a(mishLmash(of(thick(avocado(toast,(fried(eggs,(fresh(greens( and,(the(pièce(de(résistance,(an(irresistible(smoked(trout(salad.(Combine(all(the(eleL ments(into(one(smoky,(earthy,(creamy,(fatty,(palateLelectrifying(bite(and(the(rest(of( your(day(will(be(made(by(the(time(you(roll(out(onto(Pearl(Street.

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Q Empower through Flour Coinciding(with(Women’s(History(Month(is(Empower( through(Flour,(a(womanLled(initiative(to(raise(funds(for( women’s(groups(through(food.(This(year,(female(chefs( around(the(country(are(putting(on(special(menu(items,(the( proceeds(of(which(benefit(Girl(Up,(a(U.N.(FoundationLled( group(that(engages,(trains(and(mobilizes(girls(around(the( world.(Support(the(cause(at( OAK at fourteenth(by(purL chasing(Chef(Sarah(Beckwith’s(orange(and(date(sticky( toffee(pudding(with(caramelized(Rice(Krispies(and(black( currant(ice(cream,(or(at(Caroline(Glover’s( Annette(in( Aurora,(with(the(house(peanut(brittle(and(huckleberry(ice( cream.(More(info(at(empowerthroughflour.com

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Q Sustainable Food and Ag Grants On(Tuesday,(Feb.(25,(the(Boulder(County( Commissioners(announced(the(2020(Sustainable(Food( and(Agricultural(Fund(recipients,(which(will(help(local( farms(fund(regenerative(ag(improvements(and(programs.( Recipients(are:( Ollin Farms(($40,000(to(build(onLfarm( demonstration(areas(for(sustainable(farming(techniques),( McCauley Family Farms(($40,000(to(build(soilLregenerL ation(units),( Cure Organic Farms((for(cover(crops,(creL ating(a(native(pollinator(habitat,(decreasing(erosion(and( more),( Aspen Moon Farms(($55,000(for(heritage(grain( production).( Cottonwood Farm,( Black Cat Farms(and( Skypilot Farms were(also(recipients.(

Q DRINK OF THE WEEK

Then and now: Longmont Five iconic Longmont beers by Michael J. Casey

As!far!as!the!economists!are!con. cerned,!Longmont’s!beer!scene!is!a! “cluster:”!a!dense!network!of!compa. nies!and!institutions!concentrated! within!a!specific!geography.!You’ve! heard!the!aphorism:!A!rising!tide!lifts!all!boats?! Clusters!are!the!tide.

Though!it!sounds!desirable!to!operate! without!competition,!lone!businesses!exist!in!a! vacuum.!They!have!little!to!no!buying!power,!a! small!pool!of!candidates!to!hire!from,!and!lack!an!edu. cated!consumer!base.!Multiple!businesses!alleviate! those!problems.!They!can!partner!and!acquire!resources! at!a!lower!cost,!can!trade!employees!and!information! freely,!even!share!customers.

Longmont’s!beer!scene!is!one!of!the!best!examples! of!a!cluster!around.!Thirty!years!ago,!Longmont!was! home!to!50,000!people!but!zero!breweries.!Today,!the! city!is!home!to!95,000!and!11!breweries,!two!of!which! have!extended!the!Colorado!identity!beyond!American! borders.

You’ll!find!that!story!in!this!month’s! Insider(Longmont (in!print!in!Longmont,!online!at!boulderweekly.com/spe. cial.editions).!And!since!any!story!about!beer!goes!better! with!one,!here!are!five!that!helped!build!the!Longmont! beer!scene.

Sawtooth Ale, Left(Hand(Brewing(Company.!The! first!beer!Left!Hand!brewed!was!Sawtooth!—!an!amber! ale!in!the!English!bitter!tradition.!Because,!as!cofounder! Eric!Wallace!explains,!“Colorado!was!amber!beer.driven.! If!you!didn’t!have!an!amber,!you!were!nobody.”

Featuring!chewy!malt,!herbal!hops!and!a!balanced! drinking!experience!that’s!hard!to!beat,!Sawtooth!set!the!

stage!for!future!fla. vors.!Nowadays,! you!can!find!it!nitro. genized,!which! gives!the!brew!an! extra!creaminess! and!highlights!the! dry,!nutty!flavor!of! the!malts.!It’s!still! one!of!their!best! sellers!—!number! two!behind!another! nitro!offering!(more! on!No.!1!to!the! right).

Dale’s Pale Ale,! Oskar(Blues( Brewery.!Defiant,! proud!and!volumi. nously!hopped,!Dale’s!Pale!Ale!set!the!scene!as! Colorado’s!original!craft!beer!in!a!can.!Caramel!in!color! with!a!large!pile!of!loose,!rocky!foam,!Dale’s!is!citrusy! and!floral!on!the!nose,!slightly!sweet!and!full.bodied!in! the!mouth,!and!features!a!punch!of!bitterness!for!good! measure.

Lush Puppy Juicy IPA,! Bootstrap(Brewing(Co.! “Lush”!is!the!perfect!descriptor.!Cloudy!haze!and!a!large! pile!of!rocky!foam!in!the!glass,!an!aroma!of!vibrant!tropi. cal!fruit,!the!taste!of!fresh!oranges!and!soft!citrus!in!the! mouth,!and!a!coating!finish!that!gives!the!feeling!of!a!full! meal.!It’s!like!breakfast!during!happy!hour!and!vice! versa.

Wibby IPL,! Wibby(Brewing.!Bringing!together!the! best!of!both!worlds,!IPL!(India!pale!lager)!is!a!bock!beer! (strong!lager)!with!loads!of!late.addition!American!hops.! It’s!got!a!lovely!candy!apple!red!appearance,!an!aroma! of!hoppy!pine!and!citrus,!and!a!clean!and!malty!finish. ShibbleShabble,! Primitive(Beer.!This!2.year.old!beer! was!spontaneously!fermented,!barrel.aged!and!then! blended!to!produce!a!sparkling!nose!of!citrus,!resin!and!a! whiff!of!black!tea.!The!mouth!is!a!symphony!of!stony!min. erality,!citrus,!funky!yeast!and!vinous!complexity.! VISIT%LONGMONT

Left Hand Brewing Co.’s Nitro Milk Stout B eer!fests!are!fun.!If!you’re!an! attendee.!Working!one!is!a!differ. ent!story.!It!involves!a!good!deal!of! patience,!and!unflappable!faith!that!the! beer!you’re!pouring!will!resonate!with!hundreds!of! ticket!buyers!—!many!of!whom!are!there!for!the! atmosphere,!not!the!beer.

“Give!me!the!least!beer.y!beer!you!got,”!Left! Hand’s!cofounder!Eric!Wallace!recounts.!“And!I! say,!‘How!about!I!give!you!something!that’s!totally! different?’”

He!pours!them!Milk! Stout!—!a!dark,!malty,! slightly!sweet!concoction! that!catches!most!off! guard.

“People!go,!‘I!didn’t! know!beer!could!taste!like! this,’”!Wallace!says.

Brewed!with!six!stan. dard!malts!and!two!clas. sic!hops,!Milk!Stout!has!a! hit!of!lactose!(unferment. ed!milk!sugar)!to!give!the!body!an!extra!silkiness! and!a!dollop!of!sweetness!in!the!taste.!It!weighs!in! at!6%!alcohol!by!volume!and!goes!down!without!a! fight.!The!nose!is!a!little!nutty!with!a!hint!of!brown! sugar.!The!roasted!malts!are!subtle,!the!lactose!is! sweet,!and!the!hops!clean!everything!up.

Solid!stuff,!but!quaff!it!on!nitro,!and!Milk!Stout! starts!singing!a!bawdier!tune.!There’s!a!sexiness! to!the!hiss!and!gurgle!of!the!pour,!the!tight,!tiny! bubbles!cascading!up!the!glass,!the!thick!collar!of! foam!on!top,!the!velvety!mouthfeel...!No!wonder!it! bears!the!moniker!“America’s!Stout.”!

A MODERN SHRINE TO REGIONAL MEXICAN CUISINE

Our kitchen is 100% Gluten Free

#EatMoreTacos

Chef and CU professor Carmen Pacheco-Borden on molé by Matt Cortina

Carmen&Pacheco+Borden&is&one& of&two&things,&and&possibly& both:&She’s&either&not&your& average&mechanical&engineer+ ing&professor&or&she’s&not&your& average&molé&maker.&

Six&years&ago,&Pacheco+Borden& left&her&full+time&job&lecturing&on&engi+ neering&at&CU+Boulder&(she’s&still&part+ time)&to&follow&a&passion:&molé.

“I&immigrated&from& Mexico&when&I&was&13,&so& food&is&very&important&to& me,”&Pacheco+Borden& says.&“And&every&time&I& would&go&to&the&farmer’s& market&here&in&Boulder,&I& would&be&like,&‘Oh,&I&want& to&be&there,&you&know?’& But&it&was&crazy&because,& why&—&I’m&not&a&farmer.& But&then&I&said,&they& could&use&a&very&good& salsa,&like&what&they& serve&in&Mexico.&And&then& I&thought&they&didn’t&have& molés&either.”

Molé&is&much&more&than&we’ve& been&conditioned&to&think&in&the&U.S.&& “Molé”&means&“sauce”&in&the&Nahuatl& language&and&encompasses&everything& from&that&familiar,&thick,&brown,&choco+ latey&stuff&(molé&negro&from&Oaxaca)&to& vibrant&red&chile&(Sonora)&to&guacamo# le.&Though&rooted&in&centuries&of&culi+ nary&history,&molé&as&we&know&it&today& is&a&product&of&an&imperialized&world,& Pacheco+Borden&says.

“Molé&is&a&fusion&cuisine,”&she& says.&“It&could&not&exist&as&it&is&now& without&the&Spaniards&invading& because&they&brought&the&spices.” Remembering&the&flavors&of&

jarred&molé&from& around&Mexico&and& the&red&molé&of&her& native&Sonora,& Pacheco+Borden& tried&to&recreate& recipes&in&her&kitch+ en,&with&an&eye& toward&bringing& them,&eventually,&to& the&Boulder& Farmers&Market.& But&she&couldn’t&get& the&flavors&quite& right,&so&she&went& to&molé&mecca:& Oaxaca.&

There,&she&rented&an&Airbnb&and& took&classes&on&making&a&variety&of&tra+ ditional&molés.&But&there&was&one&that& inspired&her&most.

“The&one&that&touched&my&heart& was&the&molé&negro,&because&it&was& the&most&complex,&and&I&like&challeng+ es,”&she&says.

Famous&for&its&ingredient&list,&with& some&varieties&using&more&than&30& items,&molé&negro&is&notoriously&time+ consuming.&Each&ingredient&requires& tedious&preparation,&and&everything,& from&the&spices&to&the&herbs&to&the&veg+ etables,&are&best&when&ground,& chopped&and/or&roasted&fresh.&So&after& returning&to&Colorado,&Pacheco+Borden& developed&a&recipe&and&honed&the&tech+ niques&she&learned&on&her&pilgrimage.& When&the&proof&was&in&the&molé,& she&brought&a&few&varieties&to&the& Farmers&Market.&As&it&turned&out,&the& venue&was&the&best,&and&maybe&only,& outlet&for&Pacheco+Borden’s&molé. “I&like&to&cook&from&scratch,”& Pacheco+Borden&says.&“The&system&

right&now&is&not& designed&for&that.& Like&if&you&want&to& get&into&a&grocery& store,&you&have&to& delegate&what&you& do&to&a&co+packer,& and&then&those& folks&do&things& simple&so&that& they&can&be&auto+ mated.&I&mean,& they’re&not&roast+ ing&tomatoes&and& making&sure& they’re&all&peeled.” That&attention&to& detail&has&won&her&molés&and&salsas& many&loyal&fans&and&growing&regional& acclaim.&As&a&result&of&her&work,& Pacheco+Borden&was&recently&elected& as&a&Boulder&County&Farmers&Markets& board&member.&She&says&the&position& enables&her&to&ensure&people&from&far& and&wide,&with&ideas&like&bringing&molé& to&the&masses,&get&their&chances&at& success.

“I&feel&like&we&need&to&be&repre+ sented&on&the&board&because&there& could&be&other&vendors&like&me&that&I& would&like&to&be&part&of&decisions&in& the&future&for&the&Boulder&market,”& she&says.

And,&Pacheco+Borden’s&molés&are& finding&their&way&into&local&restaurants.& Centro&is&hosting&a&four+course&molé& dinner&with&Pacheco+Borden’s&regional& sauces&on&March&8,&though&that&event& is&sold&out.&Fortunately,&you&can&stop& by&Centro&all&month&long&to&sample& dishes&with&Pacheco+Borden’s&molés.& Visit*carmenssalsa.com*for*more* information.

Q ‘It’s not so complicated’

PHOTOS&COURTESY&CARMEN&PACHECO-BORDEN

To attempt&your&own&version&of& Pacheco+Borden’s&30+ingredient& molé&negro,&divide&the&ingredients& into&food&groups:&nuts&and&seeds^&spices&and& herbs^&vegetables^&peppers^&and&other.

For&nuts&and&seeds,&Pacheco+Borden& uses&pecans,&almonds,&sesame&seeds&and& pumpkin&seeds&and&roasts&them&to&release& their&oils.&They&provide&thickness&when&mac+ erated,&which&allows&Pacheco+Borden&to& forgo&the&traditional&addition&of&bread.

For&the&spices&and&herbs,&buy&whole& spices&and&grind&them&fresh&into&your&molé& mixture.&Restraint&is&advised&on&spices&like& cumin,&cloves&and&anise&—&“Cumin&is&like&a& noisy&aunt,”&Pacheco+Borden&says.&“A&little& goes&a&long&way.”&Aromatic&herbs&like&orega+ no,&thyme&and&marjoram&provide&fragrance. Vegetables&like&tomatoes,&tomatillos& onions&and&garlic&are&refined&first&—&they& must&be&caramelized,&which&is&typically&done& on&a&flat,&dry+roasting&comal.&

For&peppers,&Pacheco+Borden&uses&three& dried&and&then&rehydrated&varieties:&ancho,& pasilla&negro&and&the&chilhuacle,&which&is& native&to&Oaxaca&and&tricky&to&find&in&the&U.S.& It&helps&gives&molé&negro&a&chocolate&flavor. As&does&chocolate,&of&course,&which& Pacheco+Borden&roasts&and&grinds&from& cacao&beans&herself.&To&balance&the&bitter+ ness,&raisins&are&added&for&sweetness.&

Thin&your&molé&with&water&or&chicken& broth.

Now,&you&go&figure&out&the&other&dozen& ingredients.&Or,&just&get&Pacheco+Borden’s& version&at&the&Farmers&Market.&

High end quality meats Catering also available

+05, :(=, 36*(3

Q RECIPE

42 Organic Sandwich Company & many more!

bestofboulderdeals.kostizi.com on local restaurants Vă.PM[*HYKZ 20-50%

Tuesdays 4pm - 9pm

Every Tuesday $3 Burgers

Red Enchiladas with Sonoran Red Molé from Carmen Pacheco-Borden

!8!oz.!Carmen’s!Sonoran!red! molé!(a!red!chile!enchilada!sauce) 12!corn!tortillas 1!lb.!cooked!chicken,!ground! meat!or!cheese!for!the!stuffing

1!lb.!queso!fresco!or!cheddar! cheese!

1/2!cup!of!chicken!stock!or! water

2!tablespoons!canola!oil!

In!a!saucepan,!heat!the! Sonoran!red!molé,!add!a!little!bit!of!canola!oil!for!flavor.!Add!1/2!cup!of!broth!or!water! if!you!desire!a!thinner!consistency.!Bring!it!to!a!boil!and!put!on!low!heat.

Shred!your!cooked!chicken!to!bite!size.!Alternatively!you!can!use!ground!beef,! ground!lamb,!turkey!or!just!cheese.

For!the!enchiladas,!you!will!need!a!flat!pan,!flat!plate!and!baking!casserole!dish.!In! a!flat!pan,!add!1!tablespoon!of!oil.!When!the!oil!is!hot,!pass!one!tortilla!through!at!a! time,!turning!once!until!the!tortilla!gets!soft,!but!not!too!quickly!so!that!it!gets!crispy.! Then!submerge!the!hot!tortilla!into!the!red!molé!sauce.!Finally,!put!the!tortilla!smothM ered!in!red!molé!sauce!in!a!flat!plate,!and!put!your!meat!or!chicken!in!the!middle.! Then!roll!the!tortilla!until!it!is!closed.!Place!your!rolled!enchiladas!in!a!baking!dish.! Repeat.!Top!with!cheese!and!sliced!onions.!Bake!enchilada!casserole!for!20!minutes! at!350!degrees.!

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