Bodysurfer Magazine - Issue 2

DANNY TEARE

PHOTO BY: LAURIE MCCALL @ LAURIEMCCALLPHOTO

In the second issue of the ‘flipbook’ format, we have an article from Danny Teare. The bodysurfer from Cornwall in the South West of the U.K. He is a stroke survivor who is truly pushing himself to show what’s possible. His achievements are a real inspiration and also he works hard to bring a true awareness for other stroke survivors by running workshops and events. He’s a real character and a pleasure to bodysurf with.

You can follow Danny on Instagram@ camborne_whomp_club

Contributors:

Cover photograph: Laurie McCall

Photographers: Laurie McCall

@bodysurfer_magazine

Editors: MRM

@bodysurfer_magazine

The views expressed in Bodysurfer Magazine and this article are those of the respective contributors and interviewees and are not necessarily those of the editor, interviewer or staff. All contents are copyright protected and property of Bodysurfer Magazine and contributors. All the photographs are copyright protected and property of the credited photographers and may not be copied, reproduced or used in any way without the permission of the relevant photographer.

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Logo Design: Marjorie Carlotti

General Design: @bodysurfer_magazine

Danny Teare

Atlantic Coast, Cornwall U.K.

I say this with first-hand experience - “You never know what’s around the corner”. It was 2019, I had just turned 44 years old and my life, as I had known it, suddenly ended.

I was surfing (standup) when I had my first strokea serious life threatening medical condition which happens when the blood supply to part of the brain is cut off. Unknowingly, I had been carrying a very rare adrenal gland tumour for several years and it was now trying its hardest to end my life. The following 6 months were pretty crazy for me and I went on to survive several more strokes, 2 days emergency surgery and a further 2 weeks in a specialist Intensive Care Unit 250 miles away from my home and family.

At some point during those 2 weeks of drifting in and out of consciousness, I remember promising myself to get out of hospital and somehow return to enjoying the ocean again. Unfortunately with each stroke that I had survived, my brain had been irreparably damaged and my life as a husband, father and surfer would now be completely different. Acceptance of my ‘new normal’ took time, adaptions and a lot of professional support and counselling. My recovery was slow, but my positivity and stubbornness never faltered and together with my family we celebrated every gain no matter how small.

During a seizure, caused by my tumour, I managed to tear a vertebral artery in my neck. This seizure was so violent I also dislocated and fractured my shoulder which required a metal plate and 11 screws to fix it back together. It was clear to me early on in my recovery, and I was advised by my stroke consultant, that I would not return

DANNY TEARE

PHOTO SEQUENCE BY: LAURIE MCCALL - @

PHOTO SEQUENCE BY: LAURIE MCCALL - @ LAURIEMCCALLPHOTO

to standup surfing…at least not in the way I had previously known. The extent of my acquired brain injuries would radically affect every aspect of my home, work and life roles from now on.

In order to enjoy the ocean again, I started to research other methods of riding waves. I had borrowed a bunch of my mates DVD’s and ‘Come Hell or High Water’ and ‘Dirty Old Wedge’ became my favourites. Shortly after watching these, I convinced my consultant that sea swimming would be an ideal activity for me to build my strength and improve my mental health. My consultant agreed, and immediately after this news, I went down my local beach with my wife and kids and they helped me into my wetsuit… my bodysurfing life had now begun!

With support from family and friends I would swim in the sea twice a week and performed my physio training every day. I noticed the more I swam and bodysurfed, the happier and stronger I became. My increase in strength and confidence gathered pace and I started to focus on catching steeper waves. I became incredibly boosted by my gains and it strengthened my hope in changing my negative situation into a positive one. I became a UK Bodysurf Association member and hooked up with a few local bodysurfers to improve my skills and share some laughs. The bodysurfing scene is only very small in the UK, but the individuals and surrounding ‘fringe surfing’ community is strong, accessible and full of super stoked people.

DANNY TEARE

PHOTO BY: @BODYSURFER_MAGAZINE

I have a love/hate relationship with my brain injuries and nothing I can do will ever get my ‘old normal’ back. My ‘new normal’ can be hard and exhausting, but I make sure I enjoy each day. Most of the impact of my strokes are considered to be hidden disabilities and so I’m able to conceal many of these issues to the world. I have noticed that once I’m in the ocean, I feel totally relaxed. The ocean allows me to ‘let my guard down’ and just be me. The new me. The ocean is a space where I can unlock my new potential and I feel free. Bodysurfing gets me so stoked and makes me so happy. I feel so fortunate to be able to enjoy the ocean again and if conditions are poor, then I still go out and just float on my back and chuckle at the clouds.

It makes me smile to think of my circumstances in discovering my love for bodysurfing. Maybe the bodysurfer was always inside of me. I’m thankful it found me when I really needed it, and I intend to uphold my promise to enjoy the ocean for many more waves yet! See you out there.

Danny Teare

If you would like any more information then please visit www.sssands.org.uk

@stokedstrokesurvivors