Håndsrækning til 30 års håndværkshistorie

Nina Hald

Bodil Binner, Goldsmith

THE STORY, THE PROFILE, THE WOMAN By the same author: Dreams of diamonds Diamonds – brilliance, mystique and history Pearls – pomp, prestige and perspectives Royal Rubies Emeralds – cut beauty Gold – the world of precious metals Precious stones – a world of colours Author of the following exhibition catalogues: Tiara – Queen of Jewels, the Jewel of Queens Jewellery & Sex – Tradition & Taboo Pearls – Royal splendour, modern design Strength & Beauty – Jewellery for the Royal Ballet of Denmark Jewels of Nature Jewels of the Sea A Fabergé Legacy: Masterworks from the House of Dreher Contributor to the following exhibition catalogues: Stone of Heaven The Splendour of Power Co-author: Klarlund – noblesse oblige Graff

THE STORY, THE PROFILE, THE WOMAN “I love be-jeweling women in diamonds, gemstones and pearls. There is a natural fit between femininity and precious materials of the goldsmith craft. Women love to adorn themselves, and I want to give them the opportunity to wear styles and pieces rooted in the Scandinavian design tradition”. So says goldsmith Bodil Binner.

Bodil Binner’s creativity is entrenched in Nordic minimalism, the poetic Nordic light and understated luxury details. For her, the sea is a deep blue world of silence, where the goldsmith collects impressions, that she later transforms into jewellery. For the same reason, many of her designs’ names reference the sea: The wedding rings “Buddy”, because diving is always done in pairs of two, and the ring designs “Reflection”, “Caviar”, “Big Blue” and “Cap Size”.

As a natural extension of her love of the sea and diving, Bodil Binner began hunting in 2015. This activity also proved a great inspiration for the goldsmith. “I move a lot in nature, and my jewellery will usually display some relationship with nature. I find peace and calm in nature – this is my daily meditation”, says she.

Bodil Binner trained as a goldsmith with a design degree from the Danish Institute for Precious Metals.

In 2006, she became a certified diamond grader and in 2007 a specialist in pearls from Antwerp. Since 1994, Bodil Binner has been working as an independent goldsmith with her own boutique and workshop in Copenhagen. Since 2008, Bodil Binner has been a fellow arranger on several royal jewellery exhibitions, and in 2008, she was awarded 1st price in the Scandinavian round of the international competition Tahitian Pearl Trophy.

Bodil Binner has dressed royalty and singers, ministers and leading actresses in Denmark.

The option to wear and combine several rings at the same time, to exchange pendants or earrings or a diamond band on a baroque cultured pearl earring characterize her style. The designs are usually linear, solid and symmetrical – the handmade pieces always emerge confident and bold. “I aspire to a conscious effort of simplicity – something bold and strong that will withstand time”, Bodil Binner summarises.

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SIGNATURES, BESTSELLERS AND FINE JEWELLERY ON ORDER With a passion for contemporary design and excellence in every detail, Bodil Binner moves effortlessly between past and present, offering new creations with diamonds and onyx inspired by the stylish Art Deco period and renewing venerable classics. While studs continue as classic statements of elegance and tasteful simplicity, big baubles have enchanted several hearts.

A unique jewel on a woman’s finger is the daily reminder of her loving choice – whether her own or her partner’s. A large colourful cocktail ring, a classic solitaire ring with a single diamond, a glamourous design set with numerous gemstones or a pearl ring.

Timeless and refined necklaces represent outstanding compositions, with a creativity and exuberance that transcend time. Combining tradition with modernity forges an everlasting bond between past and present, symbolizing affection and family bonds.

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Tube Ring made of 18 karat gold set with 0.85 carats of diamonds set in a vertical line on the ring and 0.38 carats diamonds horizontally on the upper surface of the ring Diamond Globe rings in back – made of gold and one set with diamonds

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BODIL BINNER IN HER WORKSHOP

Side-By-Side Ring made of platinum with two rows of brilliants (a total of 2.4 carats).

For the power woman.

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SPECIAL ORDERS AND UNIQUE PIECES When Bodil Binner decides to compose a symphony to the beauty of the world, evoking the vibrant colours of nature’s gemstones, she ventures out on a creative path into the secret recesses of her imagination. As odes to love and beauty and to the splendour of the seasons, summoning the preciousness of Nature and the emotions, the results are usually breathtaking and gorgeous. And as such genre pieces are meant to be, the aesthetics of the unique showpiece are completely unpredictable. It may be one exceptional gemstone or cultured pearl that inspires a creation, or perhaps a certain design language that deserves the best in an image-creating showpiece.

The beauty of a showpiece goes beyond what the eye sees at first.

For the full impact of the refinement, turn the creation over – whether a ring, a necklace, or a pair of earrings – and notice the workmanship that goes into each and every surface, the time that has been lavished on it and the care with which the stones have been set. Each creation is the result of countless hours of high-precision craftsmanship carried out by Bodil Binner in her workshop.

Special orders are taken for all categories of jewellery.

Unique high-jewellery ring made of 18 karat gold set with a 4.03 carats round-cornered square modified fancy yellow brilliant and a total of 2.23 carat pink brilliants.

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HUNT COLLECTION Cuff links, lapel pin, brooch or hat pin; with goldsmith Bodil Binner, you can have your most treasured hunting memory turned in to a piece of jewellery.

It can be a commemoration of your favourite hunting companion as a pair of cuff links or a celebration of your most prized trophy on a lapel pin.

Trophy cups are for the revelling after a successful hunt with brandy cups made of silver, silver gilt and cabochon amethysts. Because hunting style is a prerequisite in better society.

An image of your dog is engraved en miniature on the back of two pieces of curved rock crystal. The silhouettes are then hand-coloured with enamel, using the tiniest brushes – done by an artisanal painter in Germany. When fired and set, a tiny disc of mother-of-pearl finishes the motif – and the unique creations are then set in a pair of 18 karat white gold cuff links. The spectacular combination of engraving and painting give a three-dimensional look to the jewellery.

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MADEMOISELLE SADE Think of it as a modern reinterpretation of the classic whip, used in the warmest climates. Now add Tahitian cultured pearls, baguette and brilliant-cut diamonds, and you are on the right way to a luxury version of it.

Some years ago, Danish goldsmith and pearl grader Bodil Binner entered the Special Prize category of the fifth edition of the Tahitian Pearl Trophy competition. She wanted to do something outrageous with her creation. “I had fallen in love with a pair of jewel-encrusted sandals some time prior to my participation in the competition. Those sandals inspired a want in me to do something extraordinary – because on a daily basis my production is limited to jewellery,” the goldsmith says.

Bodil Binner wanted to make a visually captivating creation, and apparently the judges appreciated her efforts, because she won first prize in the category in the national rounds and second prize in the international competition.

As Bodil Binner only works with genuine materials, even the hair had to be the real deal – in this case human hair from a blond woman. The Tahitian cultured pearls range in size from 11mm to a whopping 15,5 mm in diameter, and a total of 19.24 carat of diamonds (baguettes and brilliants) are mounted on the rhodium covered silver handle (courtesy of Vets Alphi Diamonds).

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EXHIBITIONS

Alongside this book’s author, goldsmith Bodil Binner has arranged six exhibitions: The royal jewellery exhibition “Tiara – Queen of Jewels, the Jewel of Queens” in 2009 at Amalienborgmuseet, “Fair Trade Jewellers” at Designmuseum Denmark in 2008, “The Green Gold” at Museum at Koldinghus in 2009, the royal jewellery exhibition ”Pearls – Royal splendour, modern design” in 2012 at Rosenborg Castle, the royal jewellery exhibition “Strength & Beauty – Jewellery for the Royal Ballet of Denmark” in 2012 for the old stage of The Royal Ballet in Copenhagen, and finally “Jewels of Nature” in 2019 at Naturama.

One more royal exhibition is yet to come: “Dimensions of Death” in 2022 at Sønderborg Slot – an exhibition of royal jewellery and other precious objects related to the cultural history of death through the past 2.500 years.

Making one or even several pieces of jewellery and objets d’art for the above exhibitions has afforded Bodil Binner with the opportunity to add new facets to her work, while giving her an artistic outlet for thoughts and emotions, which are not necessarily easy to wear on an everyday basis.

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EXHIBITIONS

TIARA – QUEEN OF JEWELS, JEWEL OF QUEENS In 2008-2009, Bodil Binner co-arranged and co-curated the exhibition entitled “Tiara – Queen of Jewels, Jewel of Queens”, with this book’s author. The exhibition was shown at Amalienborgmuseet (the Royal Residence Museum) during the spring and summer of 2009. Generous loans of royal tiaras and other hair ornaments provided an impression of the development of jewellery for the hair during the past 150 years, while works by present-day goldsmiths illustrated trends of today.

Today, the word “tiara” is loosely used to describe most types of feminine hair ornaments – including diadems, wreaths, coronets, garlands and chaplets. A diadem or coronet is smaller and more modest – a tiara is larger and usually set with bigger gemstones and pearls. Earlier, the tiara was a symbol of wealth and rank, power and status.

After living a shadowy existence during several centuries, the tiara experienced a resounding comeback at the end of the 18th century in the context of Neo-Classicism. At the end of the 19th century more tiaras than ever before were produced for use at royal courts – a development that continued until the First World War. Today, tiaras may be worn by anyone – chosen for their symbolic and monetary value, their style and their striking, flattering elegance. At balls, banquets and other special occasions in royal circles the tiara still plays a role as the queen of jewels and as the jewel of queens.

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EXHIBITIONS

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EXHIBITIONS

PEARLS – ROYAL SPLENDOUR, MODERN DESIGN The subtle power of pearls exerts an almost magical attraction on the female gender. As seductive gems, pearls have been associated with both the divine and the corporeal. Their natural beauty is timeless and universal, and perhaps this is why pearls have been celebrated as metaphors for virtue and love, wisdom and justice.

The spiritual aura and astronomical prices of pearls have made them ideal objects of communication, and for millennia only the most wealthy and powerful possessed pearls.

Royalty is still staged with pearls in formal state portraiture, as it has continuously been tradition for centuries in many European royal houses.

In 2011, goldsmith Bodil Binner had the pleasure of co-arranging and co-curating an exhibition entitled ”Pearls – Royal splendour, modern design”, shown at Rosenborg Castle in Denmark with this book’s author. On display for three and a half months in the beginning of 2012, generous loans of royal pearl objects, jewellery, historic oil paintings and other creations provided an impression of the pearls in royal Danish possession over the last 400 years, while works by present-day goldsmiths and jewellery designers illustrated contemporary pearl trends of today.

Bodil Binner’s necklace ”Mademoiselle Vénus” made especially for the exhibition – of pearl-beige mink, a total of 8.24 carats of champagne-coloured brilliants, 15 round and 3 drop-shaped Fiji cultured pearls (9-14,75 mm), 18 karat fair mined gold from the Oro Verde mine and suede

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EXHIBITIONS

Bodil Binner’s creation ”Mademoiselle Vénus” which can be worn as a set comprised of pendant and earrings ……………. or mounted on a choker made of mink tthe story, the profile, the woman ©2020

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EXHIBITIONS

STRENGTH & BEAUTY – JEWELLERY FOR THE ROYAL BALLET In 2012, goldsmith Bodil Binner had the pleasure of co-arranging and co-curating an exhibition entitled ”Strength & Beauty – Jewellery for the Royal Ballet”, shown at The Royal Ballet in Copenhagen in November 2012 and March 2013, together with jewellery writer Nina Hald.

Creations by goldsmiths, silversmiths and jewellery designers was made to illustrate the spirit of the ballet La Bayadère, coordinated with and inspired by the costumes conceived by British set designer Richard Hudson.

Seventeen Danish goldsmiths, silversmiths and jewellery designers made contemporary jewellery for La Bayadère, to compliment the strength and beauty of ballet as an art form – sheer virtuosity and living art. Just like ballet, the artisanship of goldsmiths is more than a profession; it is literally a calling, which demands sacrifices of blood, sweat and tears.

The jewellery on exhibition was meant as a continuation of the flawless solos of La Bayadère, to be enjoyed up close, forever frozen in time, made of the most precious of materials. The art of dance may be fleeting, but the jewellery lasts in more durable forms.

Just as glittering and beguiling as an iconic ballet, shown in an enchanted curved arcade of the Royal Ballet’s Old Stage in the heart of Copenhagen, the jewellery for the archetypical characters of La Bayadère paid homage to the grace of ballet.

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EXHIBITIONS

Empire earrings made of 14 karat gold with two pear-shaped facet-cut pink sapphires (a total of 28.3 carats) and 0.48 carat pink sapphires

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Gentleman earring made of 14 karat gold, a brilliant-cut pink sapphire of 0.35 carat, 0.23 carat pink sapphires and a white semi drop-shaped South Sea cultured pearl

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EXHIBITIONS

WORTHY OF A QUEEN For the annual event ”City of Jewellery”in 2019, with the theme ’Worthy of a Queen’, goldsmith Bodil Binner chose Queen Caroline Mathilde (1751-1775) as her muse. ”In Denmark, Caroline Mathilde’s personal history is iconic. She arrived in Denmark at the tender age of 15 years, to be married to the crazy Danish King Christian VII (17491808). However, he was the sovereign who awarded the Herrnhut congregation the church in the city Christiansfeld, for which I make my star candlestick holders and earrings”, she says, explaining her own added connection to the particular royal queen chosen.

Bodil Binner’s allegorical piece bears the title ”Love Blinds All” which is comprised of three parts: A blindfold, a sword and Justitia’s balance, the attribute of the Roman goddess of justice – symbolising that petty cares are not allowed to influence the law and legal convictions. The blindfold illustrates that love made Caroline Mathilde (temporarily) blind. Hun fell madly in love with Struensee (1737-1772), the King’s personal physician, whom reciprocated her love. With the King, they made up an involuntary but very high-profiled menage-a-trois. The sword is the symbol of the executioner’s sword – Struensee was sentenced to death by decapitation.

The balance has three symbols having from each side of the scale. On one side, the symbols of “faith, hope and love” represent the romantic and youthful girly dream of Caroline Mathilde for a life filled with true love – on the other side, an orb, a sceptre and a crown signify the King’s authority in the secular world. On the scale, the two sides balance each other out perfectly.

However, in the end, the King used his power to have Struensee executed and Caroline Mathilde exiled to the castle in Celle, Germany, where she died of illness at the age of 23 years.

With a blindfold, Caroline Mathilde chose to close her eyes to the realities of her time; her relationship with Struensee would never have been accepted. In her hair, the sword is prophesy of the death sentence executed over her lover. The King’s personal physician was unfortunately politically naïve, and too many advisors in the King’s retinue had an interest in preserving the status quo. On the bodice of the Queen’s dress, the brooch is seen – its equilibrium is guaranteed and calibrated by two yellow diamonds, the hardest mineral on earth – but the love did not last forever, even though it may give that impression, as reflected in the yellow nuance of the gemstones.

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EXHIBITIONS

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EXHIBITIONS

JEWELS OF THE SEA The special exhibition Jewels of the Sea was centred on the three jewels of the sea: Coral, pearls and amber – all of organic origin. Bodil Binner entered the exhibition, shown at Fjord&Bælt in Kerteminde, with her ring “Oh Pussy” from 2018.

The sea is known to hold both life and legends which are equally dangerous and fascinating, and it has been a great source of inspiration for Bodil Binner for decades.

With Oh Pussy, Bodil Binner gave her take on the the cultural history of the sea; by references its life as immortalised in literary tales, in a mythological monster and in the subconscious of psychology.

The sea has provided food, means of transport for trade and an insightful source of inspiration for artists. But the sea has also been perilous to sail on, both due to wind and weather, but indeed also because of piracy.

Monsters and maelstroms have held their place in mankind’s fearful fantasies – while conches, seashells, fish and whales have figured as symbols in religious contexts and in art history.

It is said that we lose ourselves in the sea because it forces us to confront our fears – but it is also here that humans have found themselves. Why is this? Perhaps because we on a purely intuitive basis remember our own origins in the sea. Or perhaps we are drawn to the destructive forces that always lurk in its depths. The sea has been the compass in which man has looked for himself and, at the same time, interpreted the values and morals of the period in which he lived.

Oh Pussy graced the cover of the exhibition’s catalogue.

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THE ANNUAL SHOWCASE OF CRAFTS GUILDS In a time dominated by the mass production of post-industrialism on a global scale, the very opposite is worth preserving. Old-fashioned crafts with history and traditions reflected in unique creations, special orders and large pieces of jewellery. The Annual Showcase of Crafts Guild unites the work of tailors, furriers, hairdressers and goldsmiths – and goldsmith Bodil Binner has participated in The Annual Showcase of Crafts Guilds in 2011, 2012, 2015, 2016, and 2018.

In 2015, Bodil Binner chose to challenge herself by making creations under the theme of the hunting goddess, Artemis – imagining the pieces of her jewellery box.

In Greek mythology, Artemis is the goddess of the hunt, the forest and animals. As the daughter of Zeus, her responsibilities are also the world of women – virginity, fertility and birth. Artemis is either portrayed at the forgiving goddess, or as the unmerciful, unforgiven and unyielding avenger. Hunters were only allowed to kill the animals of the forest as sacrifices to Artemis.

The hunting goddess’ diadem – made of nine spent shells and 12 carved turquoise flowers

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BEES – ROYAL HONEY It was the favourite motif of the historical era known as Art Nouveau – and they are a link to Bodil Binner’s own French past and the historical figure of Emperor Napoleon. Bodil Binner dedicated her participation in the 2016 edition of The Annual Showcase of Crafts Guild to the bee.

Having spent some five years of her youth in Paris, perfecting the goldsmith skills she had acquired in Denmark, Bodil Binner recently revisited the French royal residence of Malmaison. Here, a white satin robe of Empress Josephine’s was on display, embroidered all over with golden bees – and immediately, it made Bodil Binner feel abuzz with creativity.

As a tribute to the small animals, that are in danger of disappearing, as a reference to the sweetest honey that lovers share when giving and receiving jewellery, and as a reference to her own years spent in Paris, soaking up the decorative royal traditions of France, the three Bee hair pins are made of 18 karat gold, each set either with a Tahiti or South Sea cultured pearl.

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AN ICONIC CHRISTMAS STAR Bodil Binner is no stranger to the concepts of decorative ornaments and meticulous attention to detail. Traditionally, a Scandinavian Christmas is filled with golden moments, and this particular kind of seasonal glamour inspired the goldsmith to the design of a candleholder for the Christmas tree, in the shape of a very particular star. Thanks to family relations in the UNESCO world heritage city of Christiansfeld in Denmark, Bodil Binner has become closely acquainted with the original antique Herrnhut star, known from the city’s church.

In the beginning of the 19th century, the first iconic star – made out of paper and cardboard – was constructed by a mathematics instructor at the boarding school of the church, as a tool to improve the students’ geometric comprehension. Ever since, most European children have tried crafting just such stars on the first Sunday of Advent: Of the 25 points, 17 points have a square base and 8 points a triangular base.

Bodil Binner decided to transform the Herrnhut star into a precious golden candleholder with the precision of an experienced goldsmith, using gold-plated brass. In addition to this, she has also fashioned three pairs of earrings with the Herrnhut star, utilizing South Sea cultured pearls and white coral drops to accentuate the beauty of the iconic star.

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ROYALTY AND CELEBRITIES When Prime Minister Helle Thorning-Schmidt was to give the official state address to Queen Margrethe 2. during the jubilee-dinner for Her Majesty in 2012, the Prime Minister chose to wear the Mademoiselle Venus set which Bodil Binner made for the “Pearls – Royal Splendour, Modern Design” exhibition at Rosenborg Slot.

The demi-parure of pendant and earrings was made of gold and set with Fiji cultured pearls and diamonds. The piece was inspired by the mythology of the original “Fall of Man”; the snake encouraging people to eat the symbolic apples of wisdom – the first apple was eaten by a woman, and so it was natural to make a snake-inspired piece for the first female prime minister. The Prime Minister has to be aware of the proverbial “snake in paradise”; to always be mindful.

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Princess Marie of Denmark wearing Bodil Binner’s Evaporation earrings made of 18 karat white gold with black rose-cut diamonds, black drop-shaped onyx, baguette-cut diamonds and 0.38 brilliant-cut diamonds

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Nina Hald

Award-winning and celebrated goldsmith Bodil Binner – her life and story, fine jewellery and unique pieces, achievements and accolades richly illustrated