BMWMCQ - November 2025 MAGAZINE

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Committee

President - Geoff Hodge

Ph: 0413 180 101 president@bmwmcq.org.au

R1200RS; R75/5, R51/3

Vice President - Cindy Bennett Ph: 0401 610 671 vpres@bmwmcq.org.au R1200C; R1250GS

Secretary- Chris Bramwell

Treasurer - Tony Gray Ph: 0438 083 996 treasurer@bmwmcq.org.au R80GS; K100RS4V; K1300R

Events - Cindy Bennett

Ph: 0401 610 671 events@bmwmcq.org.au

Editor - Liezel Samuel Ph: 0481 004 738 editor@bmwmcq.org.au Pillion on R1200GS

This Issue - November 2025

Ph: 0427 480 811 secretary@bmwmcq.org.au K1200GT Don

Records- Chris Bramwell Ph: 0427 480 811 records@bmwmcq.org.au

K1200GT

Tools/Service - Bill Luyton

Ph: 0438 123 747 tools@bmwmcq.org.au

Regalia - Duncan Bennett Ph: 0458 293 569 regalia@bmwmcq.org.au R1250GS, Tiger 900 Rally Pro

Dealer Liaison - Don Grimes

Ph: 0411 601 372

R1200GS; K1300R

Sub-Committee Roles

Clubs Australia - Paul Hughes

Training Representative - Julian Davis

Club Details

On The Cover

Liezel Samuel Editor’s Report

Summer has well and truly arrived, with a few scorchers already in October!

As I began writing this note, an email pinged from Bikes Abroad confirming that the container with our GS (and the Bennetts’ two Tigers) has finally been loaded and lodged at the Port of Long Beach. We’re now awaiting sailing confirmation, but at least there’s hope we’ll be reunited with our trusty GS before Christmas.

Speaking of Christmas, the Club’s Christmas Party will be at Kondari Resort, Hervey Bay on Saturday, 6 December, so I hope to see many of you there to celebrate another great year of riding and camaraderie.

This month’s edition is once again packed with terrific reading. We welcome new members Greg Cunliffe, Bruce Kemp, Danny McCoy and Barry and Sonia Kitchin. Barry took delivery of his dream bike, a 2025 R1300GS, on his 50th birthday - how cool is that! A warm welcome to you all. Don and Kate led (and wrote about) a fantastic Back to the Bush weekend to Maryborough and Goomeri, while the Bennetts have reached Massachusetts at the end of Part 5 of their epic journey across the USA. Part 2 of our own American adventure takes us to the dramatic landscapes around Kayenta, Arizona.

Tony Gray shares some great tales of roadside rescues, Klaus recounts some of his and Kerry’s rides through the Cairns hinterlands, and Mark Gilbert trades two wheels for four, tackling the 2025 Noosa Winter Hillclimb in his Audi TT.

If you’ve had any off-bike adventures of your own, don’t be shy, send them in!

See you on the road soon!

Liezel

Presents to Gareth Huw and me - from our daughter Cath, when in Brisbane on a recent visit from Weipa

Submissions for the next Journal close 25 November

Geoff Hodge President’s Report

Hi All,

Well, another quiet month. I attended the coffee morning at the Wynnum coffee shop. Not a huge roll up, but a great chat was had by all.

Last week we lead the midweek ride out to Forest Hill from Ferny Grove over mount Glorious to Fernvale. It was a great day out, great weather and some great roads for the new members that attended.

Well, looking forward to having the New /old members sausage sizzle at Oxley Common on the 9th of November. Finally we have the Xmas party in Hervey Bay - see details in the Events pages, so come along and have a great night out and a great ride up and back .

That's all for now. See you all on the road.

Geoff

Midweek ride to Forest Hill, a great day out, good company and no U-turns!

BMWMCQ Club Events for

November 2025

am New Member ride and BBQ

Departure car park on Samuel Griffith Drive, about 1/2 way up east side of Mt Coot-tha. 12Noon Sausage sizzle at Oxley Creek Common, Sherwood Road Rocklea

December 2025

Tony and Jane Gray, Paul Hughes

UPCOMING EVENTS TO PUT IN YOUR CALENDAR

BMWMCQ CHRISTMAS PARTY

Saturday 6 December 2025

Kondari Resort, Urangan, QLD

Menu:

Roast Turkey, Pork & Ham with roasted pumpkin & potatoes, seasonal vegetables, gravy & cranberry sauce

Dessert - Alternate drop:

Pavlova with summer fruits & whipped cream or Christmas Pudding with vanilla bean custard

Cost: $35 per person

Bookings essential

Welcome to the second instalment of Tech Talk with Ray Jay, where each month we dive into the nuts, bolts, and sometimes mysterious black boxes that keep our bikes on the road.

Plastic Fantastic (or Not…)

Plastic – love it or loathe it – is everywhere. It keeps our food fresh, shapes our dashboards, and even makes the headlight lenses we rely on to dodge furniture in the dark. Trouble is, it’s fragile, cracks, leaks, and generally doesn’t age well. But when it breaks, all is not lost.

Rule number one:

When something does give way, don’t bin the bits. Collect every piece – they’ll help you identify what type of plastic you’re dealing with. Many automotive parts are marked with an ID ring or code. That little symbol tells you the subclass of plastic, and from there you can choose the right repair method.

Most plastics can be repaired much like steel:

Welding with heat and filler rod of the same material. Tack it together, then reinforce

PLASTIC RESIN CODES

WITH RAY

with heated staples. For adhesives, two-pack “bumper glue” is a solid choice – it sets in about 30 minutes but gives you only 30 seconds of working time, so mix small batches. For softer plastics, JB Weld Plastic Repair is a handy go-to.

Fun fact:

Many car parts – dashboards, trim panels – are made from recycled milk and bread crates. Yes, really. These can often be welded with a gas soldering iron and scraps of the same material as filler.

If you’re working with styrene (think plastic model kits), the best approach is using MEK (methyl ethyl ketone) as a solvent. Apply sparingly with a fine brush or even a hypodermic needle. Just remember – it evaporates fast, and it’s flammable, so keep it sealed and safe. For extra strength, you can reinforce joints with security mesh. Heat it, push it into the repair area like a bandage, let it sink in, then cool. This trick also works in fibreglass repairs to add strength across a failed joint.

Once the repair is solid, sand it back smooth, hit it with a plastic primer (Genrock 9340 is a good option), and use general thinners. After that, you’re ready for paint – but that, my friends, is another Tech Talk altogether.

COMMITTEE REPORTS

Cindy Bennett Vice President’s Report

Hi everyone!

As we prepare for our return to home shores after 5 months away there are certain things I am looking forward to. Doing the laundry whenever I want will be one! And of course being able to attend BMWMCQ events once again is a real highlight of returning home. We have missed some good ones including one of our favourites, Maggie’s Biscuit Ride.

However we will be back in time for the much anticipated New Members ride and lunch. We really enjoyed the one earlier in the year organised by Ben & Kelly.

The Christmas Party in Hervey Bay on 6 December is also firmly in the calendar and this is a fun chance to socialise and celebrate another year doing what we all enjoy. Riding and sharing the enjoyment of our 2 wheel passion.

Look forward to seeing a lot of you there!

Cindy

BMWMCQ General Meeting

Minutes - 2 October 2025

Venue: Geebung RSL

Meeting opened: 7:30pm

COMMITTEE REPORTS

Secretary’s Report

Apologies: Chris Lancaster, Michael and Anne Elberg, Paul Hughes, Cindy and Duncan Bennett and Tony Madison.

Minutes of previous General Meeting: Proposed: Tony Gray Accepted: Anita Wyndum

Number of attendees: 19

New members (Name & MC):

3 new members My apologies didn’t get the full names Tony bike unknown (I must update my shorthand) Darryl 2007 R1200 GSE, Ducati Forgiven lives South Brisbane.

Visitors: Nil

Returning members: Nil

Treasurer report: Big Ticket items included our insurances paid with Clubs Australia. We still hold State Government funds for Ride to Zero and approved members can apply for club’s subsidy.

Editor report: Thanks to all who sent contributions in and still would like more. Would contributors be emailed about a week before end of each month please. The earlier the better.

Tools report: Service day will be held in Late January 2026 due to Rob having commitments during November and of course December its Christmas. So you miss out on the Famous Service Day sausage sizzle.

Shane Ryan requested help with service for his 1986 G50 hope I got that right for someone to help with services, please advise Bill if you have mechanic in mind.

Regalia report: Off galivanting overseas

Records report: 291 current financial members with 3 new members this month.

Events report: The first New member ride was northside and a success with a sausage sizzle. The next ride will be southside on Sunday 9 November. The 100km ride will start at Mt Coot-tha with a BBQ lunch at Oxley Creek Common, Rocklea.

Secretary report: Nothing to report and again have copies of NSW journal.

Dealer Liaison report: Morgan & Wacker sales very strong Burnt orange R12S selling well and R13RS available for demo rides also available the R1000 and R12 GS. Book early for services at both M&W and Team Moto, as both are heavily booked.

30% discount offered on old clothing stock and 10% off at both dealers.

3-to-5-year service programs are now available at both dealerships plus 5.99% interest rate on purchases of bikes.

For Insurance check BMW Insurance online, reportedly less expensive that other insurers.

Training Officer report: Off galivanting overseas

Vice President report: Same as above

Clubs Australia report:

Same as above but in Australia

President report: Club has been advised of the untimely passing of Bruce Allen and Tont Gray attended on behalf of the club.

100-year anniversary of the R32. Bookings are still being taken for the Christmas Party.

Other Events / Buy / Sell / Swap: Nil

General business: One member Rory Davies has fuel pump issues with his K1600GT 2013. BMW has fix for the problem.

Closed: 8:20pm

Greg Gaffney

Hi all,

Record's officer Report

I'm looking forward to our next new member's ride on the 9th November which finishes with a sausage sizzle at Oxley Creek Common. Our last new member's ride to Lake Samsonvale was a great event and well attended.

New members in October: Graham Banning, BEACHMERE

John Lomax, PINE MOUNTAIN Cheers, Greg

Bill Luyten Tools Officer’s Report

Phone: 0438 123 747

Email:spares@bmwmcq.org.au

or: wluyten@bigpond .net .au

[Editor: Sincere apology to Bill for the error in the Tools report last month.]

Service Day

The Club was planning to hold the next Service Day in November but due to this time of the year with Xmas events, we’re pushing this back to late January or early February.

As soon as we’ve locked in a date it will be noted in the next magazine and on our club events webpage.

The GS-911 Ultimate Diagnostic tool has had another update. If you’re interested in the capabilities of this tool for your model bike, have a look at https://www.hexgs911.com/ select the “About” dropdown and have a look in the Function Chart.

There are special tools available including the GS-911WiFi and 3 pin diagnostic tools.

Tools for loan

• 34mm socket for rotating crankshaft

• Twinmax electronic carburetor balancer (Twin BMW engines)

• SynchroKing - Carburettor & Throttle Body Balancer

• LambdaKing Mk II - Air Fuel Ratio Tuning Meter

• Clutch alignment shafts (3 sizes)

• Compression tester (cylinder pressure)

• Steering head bearing puller and seating tool

• Gearbox output flange puller

• GS-911 Wi-Fi Diagnostic tool (Wi-Fi and USB Version)

• GS-911 3 pin Diagnostic tool (for older bikes)

• Tyre Pressure Monitor Sensor (TPMS) tool

• Enduralast hall sensor tester

• M12-thread-repair-kit-131-piece (Helicoil)

• Torque wrenches, the torque range goes from 3 to 210 Newton Meters

• Battery tester

• Battery Charger Club Tool Loan:

Tools can be picked up or brought along to the next meeting or Club ride. Please contact me by email or mobile above.

Bill

COMMITTEE REPORTS

ITony Gray Treasurer’s Report

want to put in a plug for an upcoming event. On 9 November we will be holding the second of our new member welcome ride and sausage sizzle. The first on the northside organised by Ben and Kelly Nazzari was a huge success. This second southside event is being organised by Jane and I and we are looking to follow on from the success of that first event. As I will be at the lunch venue getting everything ready, Paul Hughes has offered to lead the ride. This is a great opportunity for new members to be welcomed into the club and for established members to meet and greet these new members. If you have not been to a club event yet or maybe not for a long time then this is your opportunity. Also an opportunity for non-riding partners to come to the sausage sizzle and see what you get up to when out for a ride. All details in the FB Events page and on the club website. A second plug for our Christmas Dinner gathering in December. This is a great way to relax and unwind after another hectic year. Put your name down as we would love to see you all along in beautiful Hervey Bay.

Accounts as at 23 October 2025

Debits for Period: $ 4,018.66 Issuu $ 419.89 Adobe (In-Design) $ 2,310.00 Web Management

Credits for Period: $ 2.61 Bank Interest $ 1,152.25 Membership Fees (Bank $525 + Paypal $627.25)

Debits this period include our annual payment for the Journal (Adobe In-Design and the Issuu publishing platform). We have been paying the same $385/month to our website manager for some years now which covers all work on the website. Unfortunately there was a glitch in the payments not having been received so the backlog was paid this month.

Paypal generally just accounts for membership fees that are periodically transferred to our business account. This month was an exception with the Issuu & Adobe payments being drawn automatically from our Paypal account. Where there are insufficient funds to meet the payment, money is transferred from our BOQ Business Account. These accounts were set up this way some years ago as our business account does not have an associated debit card and there currently does not appear to be a viable alternative payment method.

Otherwise we have strong growth continuing in our membership with 19 individual and 3 dual membership payments received during the period.

Safe & happy riding to all members.

Tony

COMMITTEE REPORTS

Duncan Bennett Regalia Report

Tragedy struck this month in the USA.

My beloved BMWMCQ bucket hat, which had done huge trips around Australia and the world, is likely now gracing the unkempt quaff of a Carson City homeless chap, and that’s a best-case scenario.

Unlike my first which was stolen in the DRC at the Lubumbashi airport, taken from my bag by a baggage handler, or my second which I firmly believe without evidence was stolen by some shoeless hippy up in Maleny, the third was all my own fault.

Carson City Nevada. We trolleyed the luggage down into the basement and loaded the bikes. The beloved bucket lives in the top box, and likely I put it on top, meaning to put it in. But it was dim and dingey and I never noticed that I hadn’t. I was bringing up the rear, so no-one witnessed the bucket’s final moments.

Hopefully it made it as far as that homeless chap before falling off and is now protecting him from the high desert sun. But fortunately, I’ve got another one at home, and it has a lot to live up to.

Cheers,

The Bucket Hat at Mt Rushmore, R.I.P. The water bottle standing tall amongst the California redwoods.

Regalia Collection Set of 6 ....1 x Large Patch, 1 x Small Patch, 1 x Key Ring, 1 x Small Round Sticker, 1 x Long Helmet Sticker and 1 x 100th

Lady Shirts

Bloke Shirts
Neutral Hats & Bags

2025 REGALIA

Regalia Ordering Methods

Regalia is ordered through: regalia@bmwmcq.org.au

Method 1: Bling Your Own Wardrobe

You can get a BMWMCQ logo embroidered on your own shirt (or underwear, no-one needs to know). Purchase the item, call/email Regalia, and drop it off at a General Meeting or contact Regalia for the best way of getting the item transferred.

Method 2: Use the Inta Net

Click on the links on the previous page, or if you want something different, go to linked website (link below), and note supplier, item number and size and colour and send details to Regalia via email or contact number.

Note: Shirts, vests, and other items have the 2021 (current) logo:

Hats and other items with limited vertical space still have the old logo style:

Method 3: Bang on a Badge

Buy a big or small badge from the Regalia Officer, and iron or glue or sew it on your jacket or shirt:

Please contact your Regalia Officer for more help with options of ordering methods via email regalia@bmwmcq.org.au.

Barry and Sonia Kitchin joined in July. Barry owns a 2025 R1300GS Adventure and many bikes such as 1050 Speed Triple, SV1000s, YZF1000 (pre R1) and a few road registered dirt bikes. He loves all bikes big and small. What got you into riding, and what was your first bike?

Living in the bush on a farm between Moree and Inverell, I had dirt bikes as a kid. However when I became an apprentice, I was driving 40ks to Moree for work and 40ks home living in the scrub. I bought a bike to save money behind my parents back as they wouldn’t have agreed with me back then being on the highway. It was a Yamaha TT250. Back then in 1990’s NSW you could ride solo on a Learners licence. My old man took a fair while to calm down but he got over it after he took it for a spin also. For Sonia, the GSA is the first bike she has ever been on.

How did you end up on a BMW?

What has been your best bike, and why?

This is tough, I have had dirt bikes, fast sport bikes and now the GSA. Each were pretty awesome, however with the GSA my wife can also come with me on adventures so that makes it my favourite bike currently. The GSA surprised me with its agility even though it’s a heavy beast. I love it and love taking Sonia with me. What is your favourite riding destination?

Over the last 15-20 years I have always admired the guys and girls heading out on adventures with a GS packed with camping gear. Watching them on the rural roads and imagining the adventures they were having. I never thought I would be able to afford one ever. Sonia has heard me talk about these machines for years and encouraged me to maybe “look around”. Fast forward to my 50th birthday this year and I picked up my very own brand new BMW. I ordered it a couple weeks prior and picked it up on my actual 50th so that was special for me.

What made you join the club?

Now that I am taking time off work I do plan to join the club events and fulfil some dreams. I plan to use the experience and knowledge from other members to help plan trips and outings.

Getting back on a bike after some years off the road after a significant spinal injury, I have only explored a few roads on the GSA in the last couple months since picking it up. The back roads around Beaudesert/Rathdowny/Boonah have been pretty great so far. Sonia has come on some trips around Wivenhoe/Kilcoy areas and up to Kingaroy overnight and loved it. I am aiming to explore many roads coming up as I have taken some extended time away from work to enjoy. I have done the Glorious, Nebo and Cunungra roads many times before on sport bikes. Now I want to tour and explore further afield.

What is a “bucket list” riding destination for you?

I would love to do the Himalayas and or a Southeast Asia (Vietnam/Cambodia) trip. For Australia, I would love to camp on my way to Uluru.

Do you have any advice or handy tips to share? Hmmm, perhaps don’t put off something that you have always wanted to do. Enjoy the time you have and enjoy the people you can do it with.

Any trips planned?

Yes, my daughter lives up in Charters Towers, I am planning a trip up there and visiting Longreach on the way up or back. Camping along the way. Also another trip to Orange in NSW to see family, making best use of the internal roads and exploring around fossickers way and my old stomping grounds in Northern NSW where I grew up as a kid. Sonia will come with me on some trips that don’t involve roughing it too much.

What have been your best biking times, Worst?

One of my best memories was a camping rally in Warialda NSW in the early 2000’s. I rode my brand new SV1000s from Brisbane and met my Brother in law who rode up on his Vulcan 800 from Canberra. After the freezing cold event in Warialda (I had to wear my riding gear to bed as it was that cold) we both rode internal roads back to Canberra and even detoured around Mt Panorama. I did two laps to my Brother in laws 1 lap. That was awesome even though I was lucky not to be caught going a tad fast.

Worst - I broke my back in 2012 at work and I had to give up riding for a long time. I lost touch with my riding buddies and unfortunately grew apart from the activity I loved. A difficult recovery and I had to concentrate on getting back to work and family, that took precedence over riding. I had my spine fused and consequently a bike was not on my list of things to have for a long time.

BruceKemp joined in July and owns a 2019 GS 1250 Rallye.

What got you into riding, and what was your first bike?

I rode MX bikes when I was a teenager and then got rid of it before I got married in the mid 90’s until I was working on an event at the Wrest Point Casino in early 2020 when I saw a group of about 100 big old blokes like myself all wearing BMW gear and riding GS Adventure bikes (clearly a BMW Safari) all parked up in the car park. It was at that moment I said to myself I want to be one of those guys. So I went and got my bike license, did a couple of courses and had to wait until I got my open license before I could buy my dream bike, my BMW GS 1250.

How did you end up on a BMW?

I started on a Benelli TRK 502X which was to me a carbon copy rip off, of the GS1250 so that’s what I started on. The GS was always the end goal and no other bike even entered my mind. I joined the club the day I bought the bike and was on my first club ride after 2 days. I was very lucky to have a good mate Rusty who was already a member of the club and he prompted me to join.

I joined the club the day I bought the bike and was on my first club ride after 2 days. I was very lucky to have a good mate Rusty who was already a member of the club and he prompted me to join.

What has been your best bike, why?

I’ve watched endless hours on the GS on YouTube over the years and read a million reviews and the GS 1250 always read as being the greatest of all time for so many reasons.

A favourite riding destination?

As I’m only a beginner of being on the road riding for just over 3 years I haven’t had the chance to do any epic adventures yet, but they are certainly on the list of things to do.

What is a “bucket list” riding destination for you?

Maybe down through Tasmania with my best mate of 30+ years who has just bought himself a GS1200 in the past month. So I think that will be the destination of my first epic adventure sometime next year.

Do you have any advice or handy tips to share?

None yet. Make your bike personal to you and your personality. I love a bit of tech so having anything to tell you more info about the bike I think is a benefit. I’ve made some upgrades to my bike already with 7” screen with Carplay, maps etc. as well as a set of crash bars which I paint colour matched to the HP Blue, Top Box for Spares and tools and a small esky. I’m a gadget guy so open to anything that makes a sound or goes bing!

Any trips planned?

Just the Tassie trip at this stage. Would love to do one of the BMW Safari’s with some mates.

I go for a ride with several different mates and they have either Harleys or Street bikes. I think any day out on the road with mates is a good time. Being part of the BMW Club is obviously that exact same thing. Safe riding to all.

i n T rodu C ing ne W M e MB ers

Danny Mccoy joined in August and owns a Suzuki GS500, BMW GS650 and K1200GT.

What got you into riding, and what was your first bike?

I loved riding push bikes as a kid and still do. I found riding a motorbike was safer than the push bike on the road. At least you can keep up with the traffic on a motorbike. My first bike my was a Suzuki gs500. Put a 100,000kms on it. The bike wouldn't die.

How did you end up on a BMW?

Had an old police BMW bike for a couple of years and understood why they used them. Had BWMs ever since.

What has been your best bike, why?

For comfort and performance my K1200GT. But for fun and its my new baby the GS650 sertao.

A favourite riding destination?

I rode in the Himalayas last year. That is a favourite.

What is a “bucket list” riding destination for you?

I’ve done some travelling in the USA but would love to do route 66.

Do you have any advice or handy tips to share? I always travel light, buy the best quality you can and good safety gear.

Any trips planned?

Have a trip to Tasmania planned for December. Around a month on the Sertao there and back camping most of the way.

What have been your best biking times, Worst?

Riding in the Himalayas was the best until coming off and ending up in an Indian army hospital.

K1200GT looking good as always

Suzuki gs500 still going strong
Thumper GS650. Better known as pony
Royal Enfield in Leh, Ladakh India

Greg Cuncliffe joined in July, and owns a BMW M1000XR 2024 & CF Moto 650MT 2021.

What got you into riding, and what was your first bike?

Transition from a bicycle to motorbike for cheap transport. First bike a Honda CT90 (Postie).

How did you end up on a BMW?

Purchased at a great price, after research.

What has been your best bike, and why?

M1000XR by far, engineering, smooth butter like gear changing, heaps power but comfortable.

What is your favourite riding destination?

Earlier this year, we did the Gillies Range on way up to Atherton Tablelands 263 bends over 19km with 800m elevation.

What isa “bucket list” riding destination? Philip Island & Isle of Man.

[Ed: This article was first published in the June 2025 edition of Classic Lines, the Noosa Beach Classic Car Club magazine – printed here with the permission of Mark]

This year marks the 28th year of the legendary Noosa Hillclimb, and I decided to through myself into the dee end – or rather, up the hill. With limited car racing experience under belt, but a history of motorcycle racing (solos and sidecars) long behind me, I lined up at the start of the 2025 Noosa Winter Hillclimb with a mix

Do you have any advice or handy tips to share? Packet of baby wipes for helmet cleaning bugs, also hands, front screen, or whatever.

Any trips planned?

Tasmania coastal roads.

What have been your best biking times, Worst?

Best in a group, travelling and experiencing a road trip. Similar people, same interest, having safe fun twisties and adventure experiences.

Worst - accident fractured ankle & damaged knee.

of nerves and excitement.

I entered in a standard Audi TT with road tyres – no racing slicks or major modifications just me and the case a s it rolls off the street. The plan was simple: start cautiously and build speed. IN preparation, I scribbled some rally-style pace notes based on a map of the course and walked the 1.5km noting the trickiest corners.

Vehicle prep was minimal – check tyre pressures, identify the battery and tow point locations, and install a fire extinguisher. Friday’s practice gave me four good runs. I quickly realised I couldn’t

T

A M ongs T T he h A res

read my notes and focus on the corners at the same time, so I defaulted to caution in key areas – especially turns 2,4,7,10 and 14. I never checked my speed all weekend; the level of concentration required made even a glance at the dash seem risky.

On race day, I started using sport mode, gradually learning where I could make up time – particularly exiting turn 5, once I reminded myself that turn 6 isn’t as tight as it looks. I experimented with paddle shifting but found they were never where I needed them midcorner. I then tried manual mode using the gear lever, which felt more controlled but still slower than sports mode. So, for the remaining runs, it was back to sport mode with lower tyre pressures - a simple, but effective combination.

In total, I completed 12 runs plus a few re-runs due to red flags or timing issues, which made for great value in a weekend of grassroots motorsport. No trophies, no lap records – just the thrill of pushing yourself and your car on a legendary Hillclimb course, surrounded by passionate people and a shared love of driving.

So, if you’ve ever thought about entering, don’t let he race-prepped cars intimidate you. Whether you’re a hare or a turtle, it’s tremendous fun.

I’ll see you at the Summer Hillclimb – hopefully a little quicker, but just as enthusiastic.

Cover page of Classic lines
Mark with his Audi TT

There was a reason for stopping in Boone, North Carolina on Days 37 to 40.

Yes there was an appetite for Appalachian awesomeness. But the reason was 7/4, or everywhere besides the USA 4/7. This year the 4th of July fell on a Friday so we were very nervous about travelling on what we expected to be a monster weekend. Cindy had planned well, we were in a hotel right on the edge of the strip – Walgreens, Walmart, Food Lion, and the full range of diners within easy walking distance. While talking about walking, it is an important subject to broach for the USA traveller. If you’re out there walking, you’ll be the only one, and if you aren’t sporting an activewear costume it is frankly embarrassing. They don’t give you a footpath. They seem to prefer you were struck by a huge pickup and your worthless vehicleless stain of a body forever removed from the shirtfront of society. People we met admit it is a thing, the car is so ingrained that even if going 500m to get something, it’s straight in behind the wheel.

Cindy doing the Walk of Shame

So plenty of time to do whatever. Motorcycle maintenance was covered, we were at the 10,000km mark and the service light had come on, but we’d called Harrisonburg Triumph to book them in, and that was only a day’s ride away. We had passed from the panic maintenance to the planned maintenance phase with the resultant calming of the farm. So let’s do a ride to Grandfather Mountain and adjacent coffee venues, and do something nothing to do with

shame walking or motorcycling – tubing. This isn’t inserting anything, you need to get your mind back on the job; it is floating down a river on an inflatable tube.

The extreme sport of old tubing on the New River

Moments of excitement verging on terror followed by ages of cruising along, tubing was a bit like adventure motorcycling. Although we could have towed cool beverages on a special esky tube, not easily done behind the motorcycle. After about 2 hours drifting we got out at the point the river was flowing

The Mountain comes to the Grandfather

fastest. Luckily a burly young chap grabbed us even though some made more of an effort to do it themselves than some pseudo-swooning others. Back into town, dinner, and then up early and ready for the big one, the 4th of July parade. Which didn’t actually start until 11am so getting up early was pointless. The shops all being shut and everything dead turned out to be wrong, this is the USA after all, so even normal shops were still open. Off we went up to the main street before the appointed hour and found ourselves a spot in the shade. We were asked by locals: “Which way is the parade going this year?” That way we said, which turned out to be correct or 180° out as we pointed both ways. The parade started, and assumption is a wonderful thing. You know, the 4th of July will be an expression of patriotism of a people who have zero doubt about what their country has achieved and can achieve. There is a lot of that, with lots of flag waving, but the surprise was the advertising. Many of the floats were “Cyril Smidken’s Tractor Outlet, come and see Cyril for your next tractor!”, with Cyril’s missus and kids in an enormous pick-up waving US flags. Of course it is the middle of school holidays so the expected primary school kids don’t appear – they are off in Maine at this time of year.

The most US of the US floats

Right, that was easy. Back to the hotel and loiter about until sundown. As Queenslanders we live the fireworks dream, even on the summer solstice it is pitch dark at 7pm, but in Boone it was after 9:30pm. We’d discovered a secret viewing platform outside the hotel pool, so headed there with our special esky tube, and managed to get a seat. As per Part 4, a USA joy

is that anyone can buy fireworks, as long as they have money. So lots of punters kept us amused with their surprisingly violent fireworks displays from their 1 bed 1 bath apartment windows, before the big boys took over.

Hopefully not someone’s bond exploding Day 41 was getting back on. And onto the famous Blue Ridge Parkway. This is a bit like the Natchez Trace Parkway – not a great twisting motorcycling road but lots of great scenery and history. We learned a lot about fences, split rail and snake and a weird design that is actually really effective – the Buck Rail.

Snake and Weird yet Effective

Down off the Blue Ridge and through Lynchburg, the target was a very notable Civil War town –Appomattox, where R.E. Lee finally ran out of options and surrendered the Army of Northern Virginia, effectively ending the war. We decided it was too late for the site, and headed into our B&B. There are always nerves with a B&B, they’re a bit like taking a pill given to you by a chap named Rogue at a music festival. B&B can mean anything from just a bed, and just a

breakfast, to full on luxury with honesty drinks as per Mandeville Lose-e-anna. This one was interesting. Are you having dinner? Yes thank you, should we wander up to the servo to get some quality wines? No, we have a full selection. Righto. Cindy had the salmon, I had the beef. At time of writing, still the most fabulous meal we’ve had in the USA. And we discovered it was included in the B&B rate, no extra cost. But for every awesomeness there must be an anti-awesomeness, in this case it was the first B. King Single mattresses have extra width, making them a great option for older children, and rapidly growing teenagers. Fortunately, neither demographic was in there with us.

Leonardo never tried a King Single with his missus after a well-spent day

The answer to life, the universe, and everything – Day 42. Firstly out to the original town site of Appomattox, a bit north-east of the expanded town. This is a good site, with the old village including the McLean house chosen as the site of surrender on display.

Target for the day was Harrisonburg, not that far away, but it was important to avoid cities as it was still very warm. Sweating our way up through Scottsville, then Charlottesville, we hit the continuation of the Blue Ridge Parkway which goes through the Shenandoah National Park along Skyline Drive. This is 100 miles long but the speed limit is a maximum of 35mph – and in places 25mph due to recent “deer collisions”, so she’s a slow ol’ trundle. But plenty of spots to pull over and let the people who’ve decided 35mph is way too quick for their blood, only for them to pull over in the next spot then pull out just as you approach.

Plenty of this in the Shenandoah NP

There are only two places to exit Skyline Drive, and we probably should have taken the first because dehydration had set in by the second. Still, we managed to make it into Harrisonburg without dying, and luckily the hotel let us check in early. This hotel was classic USA – a long way out of town along the servo – fast food – chain accommodation strip. Chosen for one reason, and one reason only, it was 400m from Triumph of Harrisonburg. Both bikes were due a service and Cindy’s rear needed a refresh. Why had we chosen Triumph of Harrisonburg on Day 43? For one reason, and one reason only, it was in roughly the right place for us. Then dumb luck came charging in – Triumph of Harrisonburg is one of the USA’s best. The staff are mainly current or ex-Motocross champions and mechanics, and the quality of work and attention to detail was only exceeded by their friendliness and wanting us to know how important we were. Their range was something I could have stared at all day,

Cindy sitting in R.E. Lee’s spot, he was also on Instagram

but Chris the service manager had both bikes serviced and out in very quick time. The icing on the cake was the manager Tyler insisting on giving us his details and to call whenever we needed advice or any help whatsoever. But the quality of work was so high that at time of writing I haven’t even needed to put air in the tyres and we are nearly due another service.

Tyler and Bryce – with Chris the authors of our best ever service experience

Only disaster caused by the experience was that Bryce forced me to install Instagram to see their post on us and other interesting things. I’m now hooked on another social media platform, my third. After the service and a last longing look at the stock, into Harrisonburg to a craft brewery celebration. Our Uber driver was Jesus, can’t complain about anything.

Day 44 was 33. US-33 to be exact, a recommendation from Bryce. It was over the Allegheny Mountain, which is confusingly part of the Appalachians, but never mind, the roads were spectacular. This crossing into West Virginia was our luckiest border sign, we were held up at roadworks and were the last ones let through, so could stop, and we needed to in a dodgy spot because there was very little option.

On a sharp corner with soft gravel dropping into a nasty table drain

Spectacular roads and a touch of Hatfield and McCoy were the feature of West Virginia. That rather messy dispute had actually occurred near the West Virginia – Kentucky border, not that far from where we’d been a few days before. A theory is that the McCoy’s had a genetic disease that caused anger, a bit like NCS. NCS is an example of the USA’s need to come up with weird diseases then give them a weird name and an acronym. The telly is fantastic – every station has pharmaceutical ads that follow the same basic formula – active person with treated condition, now involved in the community and smiling while handing out foodstuffs to the less fortunate, or just generally enjoying life on a bicycle or in the sea. The condition can be anything from light bladder leakage (LBL) to horrible skin disease (HSD), smoked a bit too much (SABTM), or bog-standard heart disease (BSHD). The ad then says your HSD can be treated by Scumeraza. But Scumeraza may cause suicidal thoughts and tendencies, and you should consult your health care provider (± your

doctor) if you develop light bladder leakage, have an inflamed pancreas, start smoking a bit too much, develop a rash between the anus and genitals (all the pharmaceuticals in the US seem to pose this risk) and in a joyous leap into the ironic – a horrible skin disease. Don’t take Scumeraza if you have BSHD or liver problems or a slightly off-colour bowel movement. Anyway, back on topic, NCS is No Coffee Syndrome. May cause MA (murderous anger) or a rash. You know where.

We used to suggest to blokes who’d stuffed up that the boss was looking for a new Mail

Pouch

Back into Virginia, we did some nice roads then tough interstate miles in bucketing rain into our destination, following the path of Robert E. Lee’s Army of Northern Virginia to Gettysburg. This is truly the most visually obvious Civil War battlefield, with the key high ground features held by the Union forces from Round Top in the south following Cemetery Ridge to Culps Hill in the north easy to see from our table in the craft brewery.

Up on Day 45, some went to the Gettysburg battlefield centre while some were suffering from NCS and went into town to support the local caffeine establishment. The battlefield centre was excellent, again a movie with excellent detail on the before and during of the 3 day battle, then into the Cyclorama, painted in 1883 by the French artist Paul Philippoteaux. The 360° Cyclorama is amazing, depicting the disastrous Confederate Pickett’s charge on the third day. A bit like the Omaha beach scene in Saving Private Ryan, it shows the reality of the confusion and wreckage and horror of the battlefield.

Cindy’s home away from home

Cemetery Ridge Gettysburg

Today was about east, avoiding cities and interstates quite successfully. Cruising along the Pennsylvania border with Maryland, we were eventually forced to cross. And then into state No.1 and our No.24: Delaware. This area was a bit scary, the states are packed in and there was some anxiety we’d miss one, but we ticked them off.

Got ’em

Rehoboth Beach on the Delaware coast was the destination. Going to the beach was completely undesirable, it was very hot. Let’s take a walk and get groceries. 6 lanes of traffic to cross, no pedestrian crossing, but we’ve been long enough in the US now to just go for it. Into the servo convenience store. Had some stuff but not all. Let’s go to Walmart.

A deviation here to discuss Walmart, famous all over the world for being the “get anything” mega supermarket. Our first one back in Yucca Valley California had the lot and even an optometrist to fix Cindy’s broken specs. But there are Walmarts and UnterWalmarts. Sometimes you just can’t get a Walmart because of state laws. Around 8 of the 48 don’t permit alcohol sales in supermarkets, very like Australia. But sometimes it is just an UnterWalmart for unknown reasons, and it will have very limited or no groceries, but heaps of frozen foods. And they are so big that it is quite hard to find stuff.

So Walmart is no longer our go-to. But Crabby Dick’s next to the hotel certainly was. We loved Crabby Dick.

We loved Crabby Dick Lewes and the ferry were planned for Day 46. It was still a bit humid but not as bad, so loitering about in our own lane with one other motorcyclist was tolerable especially as I got into a lengthy conversation with the policeman who makes sure security protocols are followed. In fact, this was the first time we’ve ever had to unpack the bikes and show what was in our bags. The ferry crosses Delaware Bay, and only takes about 90 minutes, and actually crosses the border halfway over. Hard to get a photo because there is no moored sign.

Ferry to New Jersey

Cape May and state No.25. If you want to tick states off quickly, the north-east is the go, many are tiny up here, or skinny in one direction. Riding into NYC was never going to happen, so we’d found a place at Red Bank in New Jersey. But first I had to get to a place a little further north, to complete the project that had started back in Coffeyville Kansas, my visor. Into Cross Country Powersports in Metuchen, another bloody enormous motorcycle dealership, they had the biggest selection of Pinlock visor inserts imaginable. Ashley was the Pinlock insert expert, so using her skills my Pinlock was in and secure. She also had one for Cindy’s Schuberth helmet, so I watched carefully while she did mine as Cindy had gone straight to the hotel. No more fogging and having to open the visor in the bucketing rain to clear it now people.

Yes we can prove we rode into New Jersey

As cityphobes one could validly question why we were in one of the most relentlessly populated regions in the US. The answer was to see just two of the relentless population, old mates Craig and Kathy from our 2017 African odyssey. Day 47 was off the bikes, and into Kathy’s Mini Cooper. Off to Point Pleasant on the Jersey Shore where Craig spent his summer holidays as a kid. Point Pleasant beach is just to the north of that weird style of coastline peculiar to the US east coast, a long narrow spit of sand separating the Atlantic from the mainland. Besides the joys of a whole day to remind each other of the funny and stupid things we’d done in Africa, it was a nice place to wander about. Craig even

convinced us that we had to play Skee-Ball. What on earth is Skee-Ball? It’s Skee-Ball says Craig, at a loss to come up with a way to make it obvious to the foreigners. OK, but let’s start in our comfort zone – motorcycle racing.

Slower and easier than riding on the interstate Skee-Ball turned out to be running a ball up a ramp and trying to get it into a hole with big points. After the game, a roll of tickets comes out with the value of your points. Some people in the arcade are sitting in a mountain of tickets in their quest for a giant stuffed flamingo. I was happy with a bouncy ball and a toy skateboard for Cindy. Besides the fun, the beaches in NJ are interesting. Companies lease the beach from the state, so you can’t just wander on and have a swim. Unless you’ve paid $15, and only between 9:30am and 5:30pm, weather permitting. Some things about Australia are very good. Dinner at another very nice seafood restaurant, and the wonderful day was done. Hoping the next one won’t be so long away.

The Africa Queens, and the Skee-Ball champs

48M AT e P A r T 5

These vagabond shoes weren’t longing to stray right through the very heart of it – New York, New York. But they did want to see a Broadway show and that’s hard to do outside Manhattan. So Day 48 was into an Uber then onto the train to Penn Station. Yes we went into our 26th state but it didn’t count as trains are not an approved form of motorcycling. Penn Station is in 34th Street, the Broadway theatre district is in 49th Street. So 15 blocks, and Times Square sucked us in like a Dyson Black Hole.

Times Square had a few people in it

The show was The Book of Mormon, still running after its Broadway debut in March 2011. We’ve seen it twice before but seeing these things on Broadway is always next level. No wonder it is the highest grossing musical in history, it is hysterically funny from start to finish. Even with the long train rides and late return to the hotel it was another great fun day.

The state, not the city Anyway, back to motorcycling reality on Day 49. An addition to that reality starting in New Jersey

was toll roads. We’d done some research on this and someone on the Horizons Unlimited chat had summed it up for another foreign traveller on their own bike – how are they going to send you a toll invoice or a fine? So the QLD number plates happily sailed through the EZPass lanes as we took a long detour west and way north avoiding NYC and Newark. It did allow an official New York state border crossing, but the sign was on a 75mph road and appeared suddenly, so was probably the most dangerous one we’ve done, and only I could stop without dying. Never mind, got it and continued the ride east from Fishkill.

This area wasn’t about the accidental or deliberate deaths of fish or cats or other things, it was inhabited by the Dutch back in the olden days and kill is a creek. It’s still funny when thinking about the Catskill though, hold on maybe it means the skill a cat has, can’t think of any off-hand except destroying fabric covered furniture. Now you have a flavour for the sort of things that run through the mind when the riding isn’t particularly inspirational.

Out of NY and into Connecticut, the day had been a real slog with endless built-up areas and crowded interstates and the ever-present high humidity. We were nearly at our destination of Old Saysbrook and decided to stop in the pretty little town of Chester. After being unable to convince the café lady that an iced coffee is like a billion times better with vanilla ice-cream in it, we decided to check out the ferry.

This area is not inhabited by people below the poverty line, there was a Ferrari parked in front of us in the queue with the number plate PHONE 1 and a Porsche pulled in behind. Onto the ferry and another feature of the area came to light – people were very interested in us. This works well, because the inevitable result is getting local knowledge on what to avoid and what to see.

One very nice chap insisted we must do the Joshuatown Road down to Old Saysbrook, and it turned the day around.

On the Chester Ferry and learning where the Ferrari dealerships are Old Saysbrook achieved, we had the weekly drama of Sunday evening dining. I went off to the Walmart, which turned out to be an UnterWalmart, but luckily found a Stop ’n Shop which filled all the breakfast needs. Tragically it wasn’t until I’d got back to the hotel that we discovered the excellent looking restaurant over the road was shut on Sundays, so Uber Eats and an Uber small box of red perfectly paired with our Tater Tots, our first ever grog delivery.

As much of a sign as you’ll get at the Rhode Island border Day 50. Another 2 states planned. But first some rolling through Connecticut along the coast,

which was a little less busy than back there over the Connecticut River. We were still attracting attention, a quick stop for coffee at a very nice little café ended up taking a long time chatting to a few nice locals. They appear way more into boats than motorcycles in this part of the world.

Before realising that only the under 60’s can get themselves out of these chairs

Rhode Island was the only state we crossed without stopping, it isn’t even 100km across, and there just wasn’t a need to pull up. Keep on going into Massachusetts, the hardest state in the nation to spell.

We kept heading east to get to Plymouth, site of the separatist Puritans landing in 1620. Lobbing up to take a look at the rock, free parking was very hard to find, so we applied the EZPass philosophy – if a parking inspector sees the bikes, what can they do? Nothing! Ha ha! Or maybe apply clamps or something, OMG, maybe we’d better be quick. We wandered along to Plymouth Rock, which has a history a bit like many of the religious spots in Jerusalem. Plymouth Rock was never mentioned until 124 years after the landing, got broken trying to move it, and has been relocated many times. A bit like the birthplace of Jesus in Bethlehem, although that was like 300 years later, it seems like a Real Estate agent somehow got involved and then it just suddenly was, it was a huge moment so we

AT e P A r T 5

must put it somewhere, what about there? A big moment while staring at the small rock was hearing an accent, like us making some quiet jokes about the rock. Gidday. Gidday. A lot of stories and laughs with fellow countrypeoples later, we decided we’d better get back to the bikes in case they’d been clamped.

The final challenge of the day was getting through Boston with very slow and sweaty riding, before moving north through Salem and into our destination, Bev. The full name is of course Beverly, but we’d just seen our first Australians since Memphis so needed to be respectful.

Touching the North Atlantic

To quote The Book of Mormon, tomorrow is a latter day, and it starts in a very interesting place: Salem.

Here’s the map, we had awful Wi-fi so it looks like the Exxon Valdez making its way up every little kill:

Plymouth Rock

Iwas recently asked by a club member to help his petite friend, who will be his pillion on a grand adventure through Patagonia in 2026, with some advice on riding gear. I’m guessing she’s currently unaware that “adventure riding” sometimes means mud, wind, and rain coming at you sideways.

This is not the recommended riding attire

My Top Priorities for Motorcycle Gear

1. Safety: Loads of protection for those moments when you hopefully never come off the bike.

2. Waterproofing: Because when the heavens open, staying dry without wrestling into extra layers is pure bliss.

3. Fit: Comfortable, with enough room for a puffy jacket underneath, but not so much that you resemble a stuffed polar bear.

4. Airflow: Essential for when your adventure takes you somewhere toasty, like Morocco or Utah. Both were well over 40°C when we were riding over there.

5. Pockets: You’d be amazed how much stuff I carry around “just in case.” Good pockets mean I can leave the handbag behind and still be prepared for almost anything.

For years, my BMW TourShell gear served me well, over 115,000km in fact. It scored high marks on safety, waterproofing, and fit, and did a decent job with airflow. But after switching to Klim gear, I discovered the true joy of pocket perfection, which promptly became my fifth essential criterion.

My Current Setup

GEARING UP

Jacket: Klim Artemis Women’s Jacket (Medium). The Small fitted but was a little snug under the arms, probably fine if you don’t plan to move a lot. The Medium is perfect, adjustable at the waist, and doesn’t look oversized. The airflow is fantastic – even the sleeves have zips, and the pockets are next-level.

Pants: Klim Artemis Women’s Pants (Size 2). Slightly roomy at the waist, but the Velcro straps save the day. Great airflow vents (a luxury my BMW pants didn’t have). Bonus: the Artemis line now comes in an Extra Short inseam for shorter riders – a win for the vertically efficient.

Boots: SIDI Gavia Gore-Tex Women’s Boots. I have small, problem feet, so finding boots that work is a saga. My beloved Forma pair were discontinued – a tragedy I’m still processing. For those with normal feet, the world of motorcycle boots is your oyster. Just make sure they’re comfortable and waterproof.

Gloves: You’ll need at least two pairs – one for summer, one for winter. My summer gloves are leather and breezy but not waterproof; my winter ones are warm and watertight. Try a few on in-store – glove sizing is as mysterious as women’s jeans.

When the time comes to replace my jacket and pants, I’ll be sticking with Klim, because sometimes, you really can't improve on perfection (and pockets).

B2B #22

JEGOct2025

Friends gathering together from far & wide

Riding all over the countryside

The weather was perfect it can’t be denied All in all a fantastic ride

Meeting at Dayboro on Saturday morn

It wasn’t long & we were all gone Mt Mee to Woodford on roads well worn Roads through the hills make you glad you were born

A great time was had in Maryborough that night Next morning to Gin Gin for a wee sweet bite

Through Boolboonda Tunnel, a spooky delight

Did you see any bats hanging on tight?

Lunch at the pub in Gayndah was great Then off to Goomeri for a hot date

With the RL Grand Final so couldn’t be late Storm vs Broncos - Broncos celebrate

Many thanks to our clubmates, Kate & Don The same B2B exactly five years on Good fun & good mates the bonds are strong At one with your bike just where you belong

Photo credit: Kate Farrar - taken from leading bike - see page 53!

Kate Farrar, Member #4448

Don Grimes, Member #4200

Five years to the day after BMWMCQ’s last Back to the Bush (B2B) ride to Goomeri via Maryborough, around 15 club members gathered together to experience regional Queensland’s fabulous weather and scenery over the October long weekend.

Don and Kate, Tony and Jane, Michael and Anne, and new member Steve gathered in Dayborough to set off on our ride together. The sun was shining and the roads were clear — we had perfect conditions for our mountain run. A cheeky copper with lights flashing joined us and thankfully passed through us (impatiently) on Mt Mee road adding a dash of drama. A few minutes later, as we descended the famous Mount Mee S bends, there he was setting up a speed camera as we passed on by unharried!

Shortly after, we detoured through Delaneys Creek Rd to Neurum which was smoky but stunning, and made us glad we persisted with it despite concerns about the fires. At Woodford we were joined by Hubi, Mark, Liezel and Huw before heading north via Bellthorpe. Along the way, a quirky roadside sign for nudists to join in the fun added a laugh and quite a bit of subsequent conversation!

We rode via Cannondale to Kenilworth enjoying a lovely spin on empty roads in beautiful country conditions! A fuel stop was in order at Kenilworth for Ann of the small tank where Steve also left us for other duties. We then took the meandering road through Moy Pocket before joining the Mary Valley road north.

Next stop was a convivial lunch at Theebine pub after which we took the back road through to Tiaro where we were all shocked to see a horrific smash, with a landcruiser on its side and a motorcycle in two pieces (one up on the sidewalk). Thankfully, we were very relieved to hear that everyone was parked having lunch at the pub and there were no casualties.

That evening at Maryborough, Mark and Donna joined us for dinner, whilst Tony and Jane bowed out for family commitments nearby.

Sunday morning we reconvened bright and early in preparation for a longer day’s ride. A hearty breakfast at the Cockatoo Café saw David Whale joining us, while Liezel and Huw prepared to depart homewards.

Smoko was planned to be at the famous crab sandwiches café at Gin Gin but we were saddened to learn they were no longer operating. But all was not lost. A new plan was devised! At Gin Gin, we met Tony and Jane again, at Mack and Lulu’s Specialty Coffee. We are glad to report a great coffee was provided, as well as a queue

like no other I’ve seen at a regional Queensland café!

Next stop was a visit to the Boolboonda Tunnel and a dark ride through to see the local bats. Sadly however, they appeared to have gone flyabout. Nonetheless we enjoyed the beautiful dirt road in and soaked in the serenity. From here the ride to the Gayndah Pub via Mungy and Yarrol for lunch was pure motorcycling bliss: galahs flying ahead, rolling hills, gentle curves, and the lingering scent of bushfire smoke.

After lunch, we enjoyed another lovely ride along the Burnett Highway to Goomeri, where we met our intrepid colleagues Ian, Bernie, and Peter, fresh (sort of fresh) from five days of thousands of kilometres around the state. Over dinner at the pub, we watched the grand final win to the Broncos which added a great footy

flavour to top off the weekend — there was one lone Storm supporter who started out loud and proud, but ended the night a little more sad and sorrowful (much to our glee).

For us, this ride was more than just a route — it was a reminder of why we all love riding: the joy of the open road, the stories shared over coffee and beer, and the bonds forged through throttle and terrain. Thanks to everyone who joined, and here’s to the next adventure!

Liezel Samuel, Member #4412

Ifelt slightly cheated when I realised Kingman is in Arizona – we’d crossed the border without even noticing. A quick check on Google Street View later revealed where it happened, and the mystery was solved. It was shortly after the lost-glove episode, before we reached Parker. The Colorado River, which marks the border, is so narrow there that we missed both the water and the rather apologetic border sign. Still, what’s lost can be made up for. The next day, we corrected the oversight by pulling a U-turn as we entered Utah to capture the obligatory state photo. Many ways to skin a cat, as they say.

Who cares it was taken on exit rather than entry?

Kingman to Tusayan (Arizona)

Although the day was a comparatively cool 34°C – 10 degrees down from the day before – there were still no trees offering anything resembling shade. One constant, however, was the sight of endless freight trains. I used to think the ones in Western Australia were long, but here they seem to go on forever. I counted roughly 200 cars on one train before reaching its midpoint, where four engines were straining to keep all moving along.

Aside from the endless freight trains, the

roadside entertainment came courtesy of a series of four signs spaced roughly three miles apart. They read:

We were probably the only ones travelling at a speed slow enough to read them

Given that most drivers on American highways seemed determined to treat the 80mph limit as a polite suggestion, the signs felt more like gentle satire than an actual deterrent. We stumbled upon an unexpected delight in Valle, about 22 miles south of Tusayan, a place called Rocks & More. Outside, an impressive collection of iron sculptures filled the yard: horses mid-gallop, carriages, cowboys, and Native American figures all captured in rusted grace. It was an open-air gallery that fired the imagination. Inside, the shop offered an equally fascinating array of fossils, gems, and minerals. The friendly woman behind the counter didn’t seem to mind us lingering longer than necessary, enjoying both the displays and the blessed cool air.

) us

A & C A n A d A P A r T 2

Suitably “rocked out,” we pressed on to our motel in Tusayan, where the promised swimming pool turned out to be real, and inviting. Its popularity was no doubt thanks to its proximity to the Grand Canyon, though we couldn’t help noticing an amusing detail: the depth markings were proudly shown in both feet and metres. One end read 5ft (1.5m), the other 5ft (1.3m). Clearly, Google had not been consulted. A refreshing swim washed off the day’s dust, and dinner that evening turned out to be the best meal of the trip so far.

As had quickly become the nightly ritual, it was time to pull out our phones and search for the next night’s accommodation. Before long, gasps of disbelief filled the room – one phone was showing prices dramatically lower than the other. How could that be? We were both on the same site, looking at the same places. The mystery was soon solved when we discovered that one of us (whose identity shall remain confidential) had their settings in Australian dollars, and the other in US dollars. Suddenly, the “bargain” hotels didn’t seem quite so miraculous.

Tusayan to Grand Canyon to Kanab (Utah)

In our eagerness to dip into the pool the previous afternoon, we had completely forgotten to refuel, hence, first stop on the morning’s agenda. Fuelling up in the US is an experience, varying wildly from state to state.

In California, not a drop of petrol would flow, no matter what technique you used to squeeze the nozzle. Huw figured out the vapor-reducing gas nozzles won’t release fuel unless you pull back the outer seal spring. In his usual flair, he explained the operation to me mimicking a mother giving advice to her teenage daughter after a lone unsuccessful first visit to the 'gas station' to refuel the car: “But honey, don’t you know that it only works when you pull the fore spring back?” Easier said than done when the GS’s flip-up fuel cap gets in the way, leaving your fingertips to do all the work.

Arizona posed a different challenge: prepayment at the pump requires a ZIP code. Only once did the machine accept my made-up numbers; the rest called my bluff, forcing a trip inside so the attendant could override the system. The first

time, I was completely baffled when asked, “How much?” How was I supposed to know? A flurry of consultation over the helmet intercom followed, as Huw frantically calculated litres to gallons to US dollars. We quickly learned to avoid servo brands that flashed the dreaded Card not accepted – pay inside. Some pumps offered a convenient pre-authorised amount, charging the actual cost minutes later. Others, however, held a compulsory US$100 for 24 hours before adjusting the final charge.

Back to the present: in Tusayan, we filled up at Texaco, pre-authorising US$20 in the shop. I was quite chuffed, finally getting the hang of it all. That confidence evaporated two days later when I realised the correction to US$13 had never gone through. A quick bit of internet sleuthing confirmed my suspicion – others, too, had fallen victim to that dodgy station.

Stunning backdrop from the Grand Canyon South Rim

We found parking reasonably close to Grandview Point on the South Rim. But when we reached the lookout, we realised we’d forgotten the little tripod on the GS, so Huw trekked back to fetch it. While waiting, I offered to take a photo for a couple who were clearly on a mission to perfect the art of the selfie.

Sometime later, as I wandered along the path admiring the canyon, I noticed the same couple waving frantically in my direction. They wanted me to take another photo – and only when Huw rejoined me, did they realise I wasn’t a park ranger. Their faces turned a shade redder than the canyon walls. Apparently, my earlier offer

to help, combined with my khaki shirt, had led them gloriously astray.

The Grand Canyon was, well, grand. We were lucky to have a clear day, good enough to spot Mount Trumbull, a mere 99 kilometres away. Our destination for the night was Kanab, and with the temperature hovering around 40°C, we left the Grand Canyon at midday, but not before answering the call of nature. There was a small queue for the limited facilities, and the thought of the women waiting outside in the blazing sun did nothing to ease my desperate struggle to pull my pants back up over sweaty legs.

In search of a shady spot for a late breakfast (since the early one never happened and it was now 2pm), we missed the off-ramp to the Chevron servo as we joined Hwy 89 but spotted the Cameron Trading Post just up the road. We promptly claimed the only patch of shade near the servo – just enough to cover part of the GS. Then we noticed the servo was dead. Literally. Even the toilets were bolted shut. The nearby Post Office looked abandoned too, and I wasn’t keen to trek the 120 metres across the scorching asphalt to the unimpressive-looking Trading Post.

Not visible – the 42oC temperature!

While I clung to the shade, Huw braved the sun and returned with sandwiches, cold drinks, and enough enthusiasm to convince me to go see for myself.

And I’m glad he did – what a gem! Inside, it was wonderfully cool, at least four times bigger than I expected, and packed with everything from cowboy gun belts and native art and pottery to real scorpions in suckers and the usual made-inChina clothing and mementos.

I was not tempted to try one of these Huw had been keen to check the tyre pressure, but we’d yet to see a servo with an air hose anywhere along the way. There was none at this dead servo either. While we ate our sandwiches in the sliver of shade, a man in a Ute pulled up to give his dog some water. When we asked if servos in the US ever have air hoses, or even tyre gauges, he shrugged and suggested we buy a $40 kit on Amazon. Not exactly the roadside solution we were hoping for. More on this later. The heat showed no mercy along Marble Canyon, so spotting a patch of green grass and a big tree beside the Glen Canyon Dam car park felt like winning the lottery.

) us

A & C A n A d A P A r T 2

Eager for something cold to drink, we headed to the impressive visitor centre, only to find there was no kiosk, no café, not even a vending machine. Just a drinking fountain dispensing lukewarm water beside the restrooms.

Utah – here we come!

By the time we reached Kanab, the temperature still hovering above 40°C, we were desperate for a swim. My heart sank when the hotel receptionist cheerfully announced the pool was empty. She looked bewildered when I gasped for air and demanded to know why they advertise a pool and then empty it in midsummer. To her credit, she offered us each a complementary ice-cold Coke to calm down, which worked well enough for me to go back and apologise. Twice.

Zion and Bryce Canyon NPs (Utah)

At least the hotel made good on their promised breakfast, our first accommodation that included breakfast (more on this topic later), and we set out to visit our first of two canyons for the day. First up was Zion National Park, which offered a completely different experience to the Grand Canyon. Here, you ride in the canyon rather than viewing it from the rim. The beauty of being on a motorbike, of course, is the uninterrupted view in every direction. I couldn’t help but think of a colleague’s teenagers, trapped in a car last year, probably seeing little more than their phones and the window tint.

We breezed through the eastern gate with our America the Beautiful pass, only to have our scenic momentum brought to a halt by a 30-minute wait in the rising heat to pass through the 1.8 km Zion–Mount Carmel Tunnel.

Completed in 1930, the tunnel is narrow and quaintly unsuited to modern traffic. Oversized vehicles like RVs and trailers can only pass through when traffic from the opposite direction is stopped, and being peak season, there was no shortage of those.

Frustrating how fast shades moves away in 30 minutes

The tunnel has windows carved into the rock that offer spectacular glimpses of the canyon, though stopping is not allowed, so most travellers miss them entirely.

When we reached the western end of the park, we planned a short break before turning back. The car park just inside the gate was full, but a GS always finds a shady spot, in this case, shared with a few wandering mule deer, entirely unfazed by the human chaos.

Just as we were gearing up to leave, a Honda Twin pulled in and copied our parking trick.

Big ego Honda Twin getting a bit too close for comfort

Its rider barely acknowledged us but was quick to boast about his 40 years of visiting National Parks on a motorbike. He dismissed Zion as a “waste of time,” explaining he’d only popped in to get his souvenir passport stamped. When asked if he’d ever been to Monument Valley, he said no. Go figure.

Shortly after leaving Zion National Park, we were lucky enough to spot a herd of bison on a trek somewhere off in the scrub, a rare and fitting farewell to Zion.

We reached the Bryce Canyon Resort around 2pm, and although it was an hour before checkin, the friendly receptionist let us book in early and we offload some excess weight from the GS before heading out again. There was forest fire smoke in the sky and the wind was picking up, so we didn’t linger.

Bryce Canyon National Park was nothing short of spectacular. No photo could possibly capture the sheer drama of those red spires and amphitheatres.

Photo 10: Bryce Canyon at 2,700m elevation

At the higher altitude, the temperature dropped to a very civilised 27°C, which made the riding and photo stops all the more enjoyable. Another blessing, far less traffic. Apart from the occasional park shuttle or Harley, the road was wonderfully quiet.

At Bryce Point lookout, we struck up a chat with a friendly couple from South Montana. They were travelling on a Honda Gold Wing but had left it behind in Bryce Canyon City for the day, opting to explore the park via shuttle bus. The wife mentioned she suffers from motion sickness,

though, curiously, not when riding pillion on the Gold Wing. There’s probably a scientific paper in that somewhere.

Heavy forest fire smoke clouds on the way to Ponderosa Canyon lookout

Bryce Canyon to Kayenta (Arizona)

We both felt the dry air affecting our nasal passages. I woke in the night wondering: who gave these ants permission to have a party in my nostrils? This prompted me to solemnly vow then and there never to complain about Brisbane’s humidity again.

We rode through the magnificent Red Canyon, marvelling at the towering rock formations glowing in the morning light.

Red Canyon on the way back to Kanab

us A & C A n A d A P A r T 2

Just outside Kanab, while Huw was fuelling up, I noticed a number plate with the subscript ‘Sunshine State’.

Are they paying QLD royalties to use this slogan?

Turned out to be a rental from Florida, and the young UK couple travelling in it had no idea which octane fuel to use.

Space lady teaches humans to refuel their little earth ship

While Huw was drawn into the impromptu fuel consultation, I spotted something far more exciting – an air service proudly advertising a FREE Air Pressure Check! Wait – free? You mean people actually pay for air here?

The machine had detailed instructions on how to check tire air pressure and how to add air to a tire (since when do we spell tyre with an ‘i’?). But spelling soon became the least of our problems. Huw deftly followed the first step – the pressure indicator popped up from the brass end near the handle. But then came the frowning and muttering. The reading was in PSI, not kilo-pascals. Unphased, he moved to the rear tyre and repeated the process. Time to inflate. He pressed the silver handle. Nothing. In fact, instead of air entering the tyre, it started escaping.

The

air keeps on escaping!

We consulted the instructions on the machine. Step one: Insert coins. (We had none.) Step two: a warning about possible injury. Step three: a warning that using “slugs or foreign coins” was a federal crime punishable by a $5,000 fine or fifteen years in prison. Lovely. Three laps around the machine confirmed there was no visible coin slot. Then I spotted a button. I pressed it, braced for sirens… and instead, blessed air began to flow.

It only worked when you pressed the button

No police appeared, and Huw declared we needed to ride up the road to check the pressure on the GS display. Why? Because he’d simply estimated how much to inflate each tyre. Luckily, his guess was spot on, and no

further criminal activity was required. Just before midday, we reached Horseshoe Bend, near the town of Page, a mesmerizing geological wonder shaped over millions of years by the mighty Colorado River. The gate attendant was exceptionally friendly and suggested we park the GS right behind his office, in full view of the CCTV. That gave us enough confidence to leave our jackets on the bike, meaning slightly less sweating on the 2.4 km return hike in 34.5°C heat.

Horseshoe Bend

The view was worth every drop of sweat. The sheer curve of the river carving through the red cliffs was breathtaking, though the scene was somewhat spoiled by a scattering of abandoned water bottles, hats, and (inexplicably) shoes decorating the cliff below the lookout ledge. When Huw zoomed in with his phone camera, he spotted a tiny kayak and boat drifting 300 metres down below, like toys on a painted ribbon of water.

By late afternoon, we rolled into Kayenta and met a receptionist who could charitably be described as… not overly warm. She rattled off something about observing (or not) Mountain Standard Time, leaving us unsure whether to trust the GS clock, Huw’s watch, or our phones. Not that it mattered, we were far more interested in finding the motel pool. Once changed, we made our way there, only to find the door locked with a “Closed Until Further Notice” sign. Really? What is it with pools in the USA? We marched back to reception – still fuming – where the receptionist, suddenly afflicted with selective amnesia, insisted the pool was operational but we’d have to wait for the manager. When? No idea. That did little to lower my temperature. Huw’s ears began to ache as I outlined my planned review for this establishment. Then, just as we got back to the room, the phone rang. The pool is now open! A glorious swim followed and all was briefly forgiven.

Huw too this photo with his iPhone
Map so far after riding 6 days

A FRIEND IN NEED

As long as I have been riding bikes there has been an unwritten biker’s code: never pass a stranded fellow biker on the roadside. Does that still apply in today’s frenetic paced electronic world where everyone seems to be in a hurry? A few experiences have confirmed for me that the answer is a qualified yes.

Back in the day when Honda 4s, Kawasaki Zeds and BMW/5s were common on our roads most riders carried a reasonable tool kit, some common spares, tyre levers and patch kit as a minimum. The bikes were reliable but tubeless tyres, electronic ignitions, hydraulic clutches and diagnostic TFT screens were still in the future. If you saw a stricken rider on the roadside you slowed and either got a thumbs up that everything was OK or you pulled up to see if you could help. Even if you are technically inept the problem may be as simple as running out of fuel or being able to ride into the next town to seek some assistance. There was an old maxim at the time that went along the lines that if your bike stopped just wait until a BMW rider came along as they carried everything you could possibly need to get you mobile.

In today’s world with mobile phone technology it is tempting and easy to ride past a stricken rider if they are armed with a mobile phone. If you are in a major urban area or main highway then help is available through the likes of the RACQ or similar support and recovery services. A mobile phone can be very useful in these environments but they are not a panacea to get you out of trouble with a problem motorcycle. These days there are many more opportunities for riders to explore foreign lands and there are many more riders exploring remote localities on their adventure bikes. In both of those cases mobile phones have a reduced worth or may be totally useless. I remember chatting to well known Aussie Motorcycle journalist, Peter (The Bear) Thoeming at a Motorcycle Expo a few years back. I was lamenting the lack of tool kits on modern bikes and Peter produced his mobile phone - this is the toolkit for many modern riders was his honest assessment! In 1977 Peter had

famously ridden from Sydney to Dublin with his mate Charlie on a pair of single cylinder XL250 Hondas so he knew his way around roadside motorcycle repairs but times have changed. BTW Peter’s book on their trip is in the club library if you are interested.

Here are a few personal experiences that show how the Bikers Code still applies in the modern context:

I was living in Melbourne for work in the early naughties and my ride was a VTR1000 Honda, a bike specifically developed by Honda to compete with Ducati in the World Superbike Championship. The big V Twin had massive 48mm carburettors and a smallish 16 litre tank. It drank like a sailor on shore leave when you gave it the berries and this Sunday afternoon returning to Melbourne after a spirited ride the low fuel warning light came on as I entered the Calder Freeway. She coughed and spluttered then died as I approached the far reaches of a shopping centre carpark. The ‘Trolley Guy’ came around the carpark collecting the discarded shopping trolleys. I asked about a service station location - no worries mate, too far to walk, I will drop back when I collect these trolleys. Good to his word he came back in a beat up old Falcon and drove me down to a servo, parked the car at the bowser so the attendent couldn’t see that we were filling up an unapproved container then dropped me back to my bike. He was clearly a guy who didn’t have much in this material world but refused to take any payment for his kindness. An old bike rider and a top bloke.

Jane and I were enjoying the very northern tip of NZ’s North Island in 2023 when the Gray Ghost totally cut out at a remote road works site late in the afternoon. It didn’t take long to find the problem where the battery had managed to short circuit and fry itself on the seat support bar. We always travel alone and I have thoughts of a Plan B in case things go wrong - when that happens however, the circumstances are rarely how you envisage. In this case a Good Samaritan in the form of a fellow biker in a 4x4 pulled up, chatted about the problem, went home and returned with a spare battery that got us out of trouble. What a champion. He wouldn’t take anything for the battery but was just happy that he was able to help us out. His ride was a Kawasaki Cruiser so no derogatory comments thanks on bikes other than BMW.

Broken in NZ

Alan Cox & Bridget Hallam are very experienced travelers on their R1200GS BMWs - they have two with one kept in Europe. If not leading a tour under their ‘Throw your Leg Over’ business, they travel alone. Their bike broke down in northern Turkey, having just crossed the border on their return from Georgia. Alan was able to use technology to help diagnose and fix their problem. First using a Motoscan App on the phone which indicated a fuel pump issue then by throwing out to the world. Alan gave me a call on Facebook Messenger after we had exchanged a few ideas - the other side of the world but a conversation as clear as if we were both standing looking over the bike. A failed Fuel Pump Controller was the issue for which there is an emergency fix. Alan was able to locally source enough electrical components to construct a bypass cable and get them on the road again until a proper replacement could be acquired.

A FRIEND IN NEED

Fuel Pump Controller

As a side note, If you have an early model R1200 Hexhead (2004-2007) and your Fuel Pump Controller has an orange sealing gasket as pictured, then it is likely to fail IMHO. The later improved unit has a blue sealing gasket. After 2007 the R1200 models (prior to 2013 LC models) have an upgraded unit but this can still fail as was the case with Alan’s bike. The emergency bypass cable (I carry one, pictured) bypasses the FPC and connects the fuel pump direct to the battery.

Bypass Cable & Emergency FPC Repair Parts

This is an emergency fix that will get you out of trouble but you must disconnect the cable every-time the bike engine is stopped or the pump will continue to run.

Remember to stop next time you see a stranded rider as you may just be able to save their day and the rewards, although not material, are priceless. And none of us know what the future holds so one day it may be you in that situation and very appreciative of any assistance offered by a fellow rider.

Paul Hughes in action
Tony assisting a breakdown after the 2021 Cane Toad Ralley

There is plenty of literature out there on what great motorcycle riding there is around Far North QLD (FNQ), so here is a little sampler. Firstly, a word on the terminology: FNQ is a well-known term, but some people now also use Tropical North QLD (TNQ), apparently because “Far North” is not good for tourism. No one wants to travel “too far”. One may want to argue that there is nothing wrong with being “too far” away from the crowds.

Whatever your preference, we stick to FNQ for old times sake and simplicity.

Our little loop (one of several options we have explored and will share in future “despatches”) starts in Cairns’ Northern Beaches suburbs that stretch from Machans Beach just north of the Barron River to Palm Cove, the posh northern end, unless you also count Ellis Beach (but technically the latter is not an actual suburb).

We start off heading south on the Capt Cook Highway, taking the bypass road via Redlynch through parts of the city onto the start of the dreaded Bruce Highway (some call it a national disgrace, and they may have a point) all the way to Gordonvale (around 45 minutes ride). There, motorcycle heaven awaits.

As Steve Kealy in “Motorcycle Adventures” (a Hema maps booklet) describes it: “With good reason the Gillies Highway is on everyone’s list of great Australian motorcycle roads. On its way over the Lambs Range the highway provides just about every kind of corner known to riders, but a word of warning from a local: the road can be quite slippery, mostly from leaf litter during and after heavy rain.”

We had picked a nice dry and warm day as we pointed our trusted R1200GSA up the Gillies, ready to tackle the 260+ corners over a distance of about 20 km over an 800m elevation. The Gillies is not a “highway” per se, the bottom section of the road is now limited to 80 kph while the majority of twisties are in a 60 kph zone, with only a couple of very short and windy overtaking lanes. Sadly quite a few bikers (and other motorists) have come to grief on that road, either running out of talent or luck (or

F n Q A nd C A irns s urrounds

both).

On our ride we encountered a small group of “spirited” riders on P-plated smaller sports bikes, some of whom did not expect a GSA (and two-up!) to be such an agile “mountain goat”. Well, we had a little chase and then decided to back off – no need to become a statistic. Not too much traffic on a weekday except for the locals and tradies going about their business.

Gillies Roadhouse (on the Versys 1000)

Heales Lookout, less than halfway up the Gillies, is a worthwhile stopping point to view the green hills and valleys towards the coastline in the distance. Another popular stop is the Gillies Roadhouse further up at the start of the

Heales Lookout (on our Kwaka)

nd C A irns s urrounds

Atherton Tablelands. But we decided to stop at Lake Barrine, where an excellent tea house awaits, with beautiful views overlooking the lake. It is a very popular weekend destination; hence we avoid Saturdays and Sundays (if we can). It was surprisingly busy on our weekday ride but we managed to find a table for a quick “cuppa”.

Lake Barrine

Further on, one can turn off to Malanda and Lake Eacham (another crater lake) which we decided to do on our ride that day. Alternatively, one can carry on towards Yungaburra which is a quirky little town (perhaps a bit like Dayboro in the Brisbane hinterland) with an old(ish) historic pub and quirky cafes. With a bit of luck one can spot platypus in the little creek just outside of town, but unfortunately we never saw one on this ride. Yungaburra also hosts the ANZAC “Avenue of Honour”.

Carrying on southwards to Malanda the road meanders through the Tablelands with gently rolling hills and farmland; a very pleasant ride with the usual 100 kph speed limit to keep an eye on.

In Malanda we turned north again heading towards Atherton, but one can also stop in Malanda to visit the Falls. We skipped the falls on this ride including the Curtain Fig, quite a magnificent tree just off the road between Malanda and Atherton, a few k’s down the turnoff towards Yungaburra. So, plenty of options to point your bike in either direction, another one being a slightly longer loop via the historic village of Herberton with its Pioneer

Museum (by contrast, the contemporary “modern” village is rather forgettable). We had been there on a few occasions, so onwards to Atherton for a little lunch it was, but not before a little detour via Tinaroo Dam.

Lake Tinaroo and its Dam Wall are another picturesque stopover, with the manmade lake situated just northeast of Atherton on the Great Divide. There is a fascinating history to the lake and its dam that is worthwhile telling as most people just ride/drive past or along it without taking much notice.

The Atherton irrigation canals were developed as part of the MareebaDimbulah Irrigation Scheme, following the completion of the Tinaroo Falls Dam in 1958. This dam was constructed to provide a consistent water supply to the

Atherton Tablelands, with the primary goal of supporting the region's tobacco industry.

Today, the canal system supplies water to a diverse range of crops including avocados, mangoes, and citrus. Extensive concrete channels, spanning hundreds of kilometres, transport water from the dam to agricultural properties.

Lake Tinnaroo & Dam Wall

In line with postwar development plans, the Queensland Government authorized the construction of the Tinaroo Falls Dam on the Barron River in 1952. The project was finalized in 1958 at a total cost of $12 million. The principal intent behind the dam was to ensure a reliable water source for tobacco cultivation, which was then a significant economic activity on the tablelands. Notably, it was the first dam in Queensland built exclusively for irrigation purposes.

The project included the establishment of an extensive network of concrete channels to deliver water from the dam to farms within the Mareeba-Dimbulah irrigation area. While originally designed to support tobacco farming, the scheme has facilitated diversification in regional agriculture.

The water now benefits a wide array of crops, with former tobacco farms repurposed for alternative agricultural products. Beyond its role in irrigation, the Tinaroo Falls Dam

F n Q A nd C A irns s urrounds

currently serves as a community water supply, produces hydroelectric power, and the reservoir (Lake Tinaroo) has become a popular site for recreational activities.

Atherton is the main commercial centre on the Tablelands but still a country town in layout and spirit. The town has a few places of interest but we decided to focus on lunch instead. There are several eateries and pubs so the choice is yours; one of our favourites is the café at the site of the old railway station next to the river, a bit off the beaten track along the Herberton road. As the railway cafe was closed on that day, we picked another popular café in town, also a good choice.

Lake Tinaroo Surrounds and Channel Road

From Atherton we continued north on the Kennedy Highway to Tolga (a good place to stop and stock up on local produce) and onwards via the Rocky Creek War Memorial Park (also popular with caravaners) towards Mareeba. As the Kennedy Hwy is pretty straight and dull to ride on (and fairly heavily policed, too) we decided to turn off on the Channel Road towards Granite Gorge and go around the northern end of Mareeba.

s urrounds

The Channel Rd is a twisty enjoyable road (just watch for farm tractors and trucks) as it follows the concrete irrigation channel that carries the Lake Tinaroo water to the farmlands between Atherton and Mareeba.

Just west of the Granite Gorge our Channel Rd turns into Chettle Rd and merges into the Mareeba - Dimbullah Rd (a.k.a. Wheelbarrow Way or Burke Development Rd – is there an actual government department responsible for naming roads?).

It is a nice ride though, along the fields and the occasional granite outcrops, pretty country and very different from the coast, albeit dry on our ride day. It can also get quite hot out there in the summer months, contrary to the popular belief that the Tablelands are typically cooler (well, they normally are but mostly in the higher elevations).

Mareeba has some interesting history, from tobacco farms in the older days to coffee plantations (including chocolate makers) and paw-paw farms nowadays. It sits on the confluence of the upper Barron River, Granite Creek and Emerald Creek; of historical interest are the many mausoleums built by Italian immigrants in the local cemetery (the town maintains a strong Italian heritage). We normally stop in town for refreshments and a leg stretch but decided to carry on further north on the Mulligan Highway to do the “longer loop” via Port Douglas. Alternatively, one can head east on the Kennedy Highway to Kuranda and back down the ranges to Cairns. This route of course, is also the eastern starting point of the famous Savannah Way that continues all the way to Broome (we rode part of that back in 2019).

West of Mareeba

The Mulligan Hwy is a straight and open country road and continues all the way to Cooktown. On our ride, we veered off to the right just after Mount Molloy heading northeast on the Rex Ranges Road via Julatten (worthwhile a stop at the old hotel – which was closed on our ride day). The Rex Ranges Rd is best described as “short but sweet”; it becomes more interesting after Julatten and the countryside finally turns greener and more tropical after the dry and scrubby bush along the Mulligan Hwy. The Rex is delightful with quite a few twisties but watch for local wildlife and caravans. A couple of years ago I got “blitzed” there by a friendly motorcycle cop as we came out of the twisties and opened up to pass a couple of caravans crawling along; still waiting for my “thank you” letter from the QLD Govt after parting with some $470 for being “less than 13km/h over” ….

Rex Ranges Lookout

At the bottom of the Rex Ranges, one hits the T-junction going left to either Cape Tribulation (via Mossman Gorge and the Daintree) or right to Port Douglas. We headed east towards “Port” (as the locals call it); we normally do stop in Port where one can find dozens of eateries, pubs and accommodation options. Port Douglas has it all, just be prepared to bring your wallet.

Rex Lookout

We decided to carry on the coast run back to Cairns; probably one of the most beautiful stretches of road in FNQ along the sparkling water of Trinity Bay. Unfortunately, the ongoing road works following the 2023 landslides after Cyclone Jasper spoiled the fun on a bike; there are still between four to five unpleasantly long stops with traffic queueing for hundreds of metres and slow going. Not much fun sitting in full gear under the sun waiting for the lights to turn green. It looks like that situation is not going to improve much before the next rainy season (which is just around the corner).

Rex Lookout

There are several beaches along the way, with the Rex Lookout probably the best place for a quick break and to take in the views of the coastline. If so inclined, one could pop into Hartley’s Crocodiles near Wangetti, maybe best described as a mini version of “Australia Zoo” on the Sunny Coast. Perhaps not the most ideal stopover on a bike in full gear though.

At Ellis Beach just north of Double Island there is a very lively bar and popular biker’s waterhole, always busy on the weekends with heaps of bikes parked outside. We stopped there (as you do) for final light refreshments before heading home just a few kilometres down the end of the Great Barrier Reef Drive or Capt Cook Hwy, as it is otherwise known.

This loop as described is just short of 300km and a great day out on the bike (minus the roadworks…).

But wait…. there is more!! Stay tuned!!

Kate Farrar demonstrating amazing photo-taking skills, taking this photo "backwards" over her head while being pillion on the leader B2B ride

QLD Ride to Zero have the below FIRST AID courses scheduled from just $50. Remember you can claim the $50 back with the Training Subsidy program (see page 57).

BMWMCQ TRAINING COURSE SUBSIDY

There are 100 places available under the ride to zero scheme from now until February 2026.

You do not need your own grant, QLD Ride to Zero have the grant, so you are not obligated or required to obtain your own funding.

Your contribution is a mere $50 - or $95 if you are wanting nationally recognised qualifications in HLTAID009 Provide CPR with your training day.

You do require a motorcycle and your license to attend the training.

You can book as a group of 10 and trainers will come to a location near you. This does mean all of Queensland wide, not just Brisbane or the Gold Coast. They will come up to Townsville and out in more rural areas if requested.

If you are interested in attending, please email to book a date at: info@fafm.com.au or deborah@fafm.org.au

Club Mileage Awards

Have you clocked up 100,000km, 200,000km or more on one bike?

To celebrate the epic achievements of these milestones, the Club will be issuing Mileage Award Medallions and Certificates to those who qualify. It can be for any make and model of bike that has reached these impressive kilometres in your ownership, and must still be in your ownership.

To nominate your bike, email our Secretary: secretary@bmwmcq.org.au with:

• Photo of the bike or you with bike - this photo will feature on your certificate so a good quality photo will enhance the certificate.

• Where and when purchased and mileage at time of purchase

• Photo of the odometer to show the kilometers.

Presentations at the monthly meetings for those that live locally – so get your details in!

CLUB TRAINING

Smart Rider Academy have the below courses scheduled for just $50, including the Level 2 course. Remember you can claim the $50 back with the Training Subsidy program (see below).

BMWMCQ TRAINING COURSE SUBSIDY

Our club encourages all members to continue to improve as a rider and offers a financial incentive to foster greater uptake in rider training. A broad interpretation of training has been adopted to include First Aid Training and Traffic Accident site safety management. The intention of the subsidy scheme is to not only improve the road craft of individual members but also to enhance the safety and enjoyment of club runs and events for all participating members. These are the simple rules to qualify for a subsidy:

1. Every financial member is eligible.

2. Subsidy is limited to one in two years for each member eg subsidy June 2024 re-eligible June 2026.

3. Subsidy provided in the form of a $50 reimbursement after course has been completed and invoice presented to the Treasurer.

4. The applicant must present details and receive approval for the intended training course from the Club Secretary prior to the course being undertaken.

There you have it, an incentive to help to make you a better and safer rider. If you undertake a course please let us know your thoughts on the success of the course, positive or negative.

AdverTising & BMW suPPorTs

Brisbane BMW Motorcycle Specialists

Need your BMW motorcycle serviced? We can also help ensure your pride and joy stays in top nick. Northside Motorcycle Tyres and Service has the latest software for BMWs enabling us to re- set service reminders, and assist with diagnostic testing and component testing making it more efficient to solve any problems with your bike. Log book servicing which won’t void your warranty. Book in for a BMW motorcycle service today with our expert team and you can be confident that Your pride and joy is in good hands.

BMW Motorcycle Tyres & Accessories

Planning on hitting the road soon? Stop by our showroom to check out our great range of tyres, luggage bags and riding gear to suit Adventure or Sport Touring.

FREE BMW Motorcycle Safety Inspection Report

But perhaps more importantly, be prepared before you head off! Book in for your FREE safety inspection report. This simple check can mean the difference between a hassle-free ride versus getting stuck on the side of the road with no phone coverage a long way from the nearest town. SHOP ONLINE FOR ALL YOUR MOTORCYCLE TYRES & ACCESSORIES WITH THE ADDED BENEFIT OF AFTERPAY “BUY NOW, PAY LATER” HTTPS://NSMCTYRES.COM 1/14 Paisley Drive Lawnton Qld 4503, Phone 07 3205 6505 Email info@nsmctyres.com

From business card to full page, all sizes are available. The BMWMCQ electronic journal is distributed to members and interested parties throughout Queensland and basically anywhere that has the internet. In addition, the journal is issued to other BMW affiliated Clubs. Get your message out to people who own, ride and restore BMW motorcycles Phone your requests toDon Grimes - Ph: 0411 601 372

Duncan showing utmost dedication in cleaning his Tiger before shipment back to Australia

BMWMCQ BOOK EXCHANGE

NEW BOOKS AVAILABLE!

Race to Dakar

Extreme Frontiers

Charley Boorman

Charley Boorman (Racing Across Canada)

What If I Had Never Tried It

Valentino Rossi (The Autobiography)

The Road to Mali

Craig Carey-Clinch

No Room for Watermelons Ron & Lynne Fellowes

A Motorcycle Courier in the Great War

Australia Motorcycle Atlas

Captain W.H.L. Watson

With 200 Top Rides (6th Ed) Hema Maps

Overland Magazines - issue #’s 11; 19; 21; 22; 25; 26; 27; 28 and 29.

Adventure Bike Rider - issue #’s 44; 46; 51 and 53

The Touring Motorcycle Jeff Ware & Kris Hodgson

BMW Twins Mick Walker

BMW Boxer Twins Ian Falloon

BMW Motorcycles Bruce Preston

A Century of BMW Manfred Grunet & Florian Triebel

The BMW Story - Production & Racing Motorcycles Ian Falloon

Bahnstormer - The Story of BMW Motorcycles LJK Setright

BMW Company History

1972

BMW Munich

Berry on Bikes - The Hot 100 - Steve Berry

2UP and OVERLOADED

2 x On Tour with Compass Expeditions DVDs

The initiative is being overseen by Jane Gray and you can communicate with Jane via email at:

library@bmwmcq.org.au

Arrangement can be made with the librarian to pick up & drop off at the monthly General Meeting or other arrangements can be made.

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