The Science of Beauty
THE NUMBER ONE RULE IN SKIN CARE
By Eliana Ocheseanu
I
n effective skincare, exfoliation is essential. No matter how many skin-loving ingredients are put onto skin, they cannot interact with other molecules and cellular processes if dead skin cells, excess sebum, or makeup residue are in the way. What is the number one rule in skincare? You must keep skin exfoliated and hydrated for product to be effectively absorbed into the skin. Exfoliants like alpha and beta hydroxy acids derived from natural substances provide multiple skin benefits. Encapsulated in liposomes, they can be delivered into skin with a lowered chance of skin irritation. Look for exfoliants containing phospholipids or liposome carriers along with the appropriate hydroxy acid or natural fruit enzyme that suits the specific skin concern.
Azelaic acid (from wheat, rye, or barley) minimizes hyperpigmentation, reduces inflammation, and clarifies pores. Bromelain (enzyme derived from pineapple) clears away surface debris while providing antioxidant benefits. Citric acid (from citrus fruits) serves as antioxidant, exfoliant, and skin lightener. Glycolic acid (from sugar cane) smooths lines and wrinkles, reduces hyperpigmentation and dark spots, and promotes cell regeneration. Lactic acid (derived from milk) softens, smooths, and improves skin tone.
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Mandelic acid (derived from bitter almonds) is great for sensitive skin as it reduces enlarged pores, targets acne, smooths lines and wrinkles, and brightens. Papain (enzyme from papaya) promotes exfoliation by digesting keratin protein. Salicylic acid (a BHA from willow bark) targets congested pores, minimizes pore size, and helps control sebum production. If you have oily skin, you can exfoliate as often as needed. This may be daily, every other day, or less frequent. For all other skin types, you should limit at-home exfoliating to once or twice a week. If you have an underlying skin care condition or are unsure about where to start, make an appointment with a dermatologist or other healthcare provider. They can walk you through your options and help you develop a skin care routine suited for your individual goals and lifestyle. sources: LeMieux cosmetics , healthline.com
Eliana has over 20 years of experience in skin care. She is the owner of Refinery21 Aesthetique and she is always available for free consultations. Email her with any skin care related questions at eliana@refinery21studio.com
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