Measuring master for slopers document

Measuring Master for Slopers From Our Text The Practical Guide to Patternmaking for Fashion Designers: Juniors, Misses, and Women

By Lori Knowles Fundamentals of Patternmaking Instructor: Joan McKenna

Student Name:

Date:

Needs List & Notes for Measurement Taking Text Used: The Practical Guide to Patternmaking for Fashion Needs List: Fairly new Measuring Tape (One that has not stretched, yet.)

Crotch/Underarm Measuring Tape (If you can find one.)

2 yards Weighted Cord (Ends knotted so that lead shot will NEVER come out) ¼ inch elastic - cut into 4 pieces (Each piece must be the equivalent to hip measurement + 2 inches OR bust measurement + 2 inches…..WHICH EVER IS BIGGER !)

Quilt Quality Safety Pins – Size 2. Quantity: Around 30 Washable Magic Markers Dressmaker’s Chalk Yard Stick Great Fitting Bra Tight “T” shirt and Exercise Shorts or a Body Suit. (Will get MARKED UP.) Pencils and Erasers Calculator Notes: Lori Knowles did NOT write this book for zaftig women.

For each measuring team, you need: a Victim, a Measurement Taker, & a Scribe.

Try not to wear black.

No Shoes. Socks OK. Garment seams ARE distracting.

Measure to the nearest 1/8 of an inch.

Give the VICTIM breaks or she will lose her posture.

Don’t baste any lines…..This is TOO detailed and a waste of time.

Chose your “biggest” side to measure: Right or Left. Front or Back.

Use Weighted Cord for plumb lines and curved lines.

Plan on spending ONLY 1 hour on each VICTIM. You MUST finish each member of your “team” before YOU go home.

Prepping Live Models: Figure # 2.6 Use Weighted Cord 2.7 Measure Around the Bust – first 2.9 There are 2 hips: Stomach-HIGH HIP & Derriere-LOW HIP 2.10 Use Weighted Cord 2.11 This line is also called the Horizontal Balance Line. (HBL) 2.12 Use Weighted Cord 2.13 Use Weighted Cord. Mark entire underarm bodice side seam.

Student Name:

Date:

Women’s Measurements for Lori Knowles Text with Additions Measurements were taken on the RIGHT / LEFT side of my body. (Circle One) 1.

Shoulder Girth Level (Fig 2.15): ______

16. Half the Back Neckline: ______

2.

Total Upper Chest Level: ______

17: Center Back Neck to Shoulder Tip: ______

3.

Total Bust Level: ______

18. Halfway Across Shoulder Blades: ______ HBL from crease to crease: ______

Cup Size (page 42): ______ 19. Half the Back Upper Chest: ______ Bra Size (page 42): ______ 20. Half the Back Bust Level: ______ 4.

Total Rib Cage Level: ______ 21: Half the Back Rib Cage Level: ______

5.

Total Waist Level: ______ NOTE: Waists are not straight.

22. Half the Back Waist: ______

Total Front Waist: ______

23: Dart Placement (Measure This): ______

Total Back Waist: ______

24: Side Seam Length: ______

6.

Shoulder Seam: ______

25: High Neck to Front Side Seam: ______

7.

Half the Front Neckline: ______

26. High Neck to back Side Seam: ______

Neckline Circumference: ______

27. Center Front Length: ______

8.

CFront Neckline to Shoulder Tip: ______

28: Front Total Length: ______

9.

Half the Front to Mid-Armhole: ______

29. Shoulder Tip to Center Front Waist: ______

10: Half the Front Upper Chest: ______

30: Shoulder Tip to Apex: ______

11. Half the Front Bust Level: ______

31. Bust Radius: ______

12. Half the Front Rib Cage Level: ______

Areola Diameter: ______

13. Bust Span: ______

32. Center Back Length: ______

14. Half the Bust Span: ______

33. Back Total Length: ______

15. Half the Front Waist: ______

→ 34. Shoulder Tip to Center Back Waist: ______

Don’t Check Your Measurements – KEEP MEASURING !

47. Half the Back Low Hip: ______ Half the Back High Hip: ______

35. Total Arm Length: ______ (Hold Tape at Shoulder) CB to Shoulder Tip, Down Arm, Around Bent Elbow to Wrist: ______ (Men’s Arm Measurement)

48. Outseam/Side Seam to Floor: ______ 49: Inseam to the Floor: ______

36. Underarm Length: ______

50: Crotch Depth: ______ (Sit straight on a flat surface & measure depth at side seam)

37. Forearm Length: ______

51. Outseam to Ankle: ______

38: Biceps Circumference: ______

52. Inseam to Ankle: ______

39: Elbow Circumference: ______

53. Crotch Length: ______

40: Wrist Circumference: ______ 41: Hand Circumference: ______

Front Crotch Length: ______ Subtract FCL from #53 to get the following: Back Crotch Length: ______

Stomach & Derriere Circumference: ______ 54. Total Thigh Circumference: ______ 42: Total Low Hip Measurement: ______ Total High Hip Measurement: ______ Panty Size (page 42) Letter & #: ________ 43: Low Hip Depth at Center Front: ______ High Hip Depth at Center Front: ______ 44. Low Hip Depth at Side Seam: ______ High Hip Depth at Side Seam: ______ 45. Low Hip Depth at Center Back: ______

Mid-Knee Circumference: ______ (With straight leg) 55. Total Calf Circumference: ______ 56. Knee Level from Waist: ______ 57: Knee Level to Ankle Level: ______ 58: Total Ankle Circumference: ______ 59: Foot Circumference: ______ Head Circumference: ______ (Where hat sits)

High Hip Depth at Center Back: ______ Hat Size (page 42) Letter & #: ________ 46: Half the Front Low Hip: ______ Half the Front High Hip: ______

Don’t Check Your Measurements – Change Jobs & Keep Measuring !