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BOUNDARY CHANGE
A realignment of the provincial electoral boundaries prompts concern.
Hiro Takeda prepares a noodle dish with hurried care Monday at 293 Wallace Street’s tasting night. GREG LAYCHAK PHOTO
19 BODY OF WORK Athlete who began bodybuilding while a student in Hope wins Ontario finals.
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Finding the recipe for success By Greg Laychak Black Press Placing a single, impeccably arranged scallop on the table in front of his guest, head chef Brent Gillis describes in detail what his patron is about to eat. Apples, compressed then infused with lemon juice and fennel accompany the scallop. Together they sit in a butternut squash juice with dots of parsley oil circling the main bite. There is chervil—a relative of parsley—in the dish as well. Though the guest has never heard of this herb, the sprigs on his plate are grown locally in an aquaponics system. It could easily be mistaken as a
scene from the world-class Danish restaurant Noma, and there is good reason for that. Moments before serving the scallop dish, Gillis emerged from the kitchen of 293 Wallace Street where the owner Hiro Takeda had just concluded a meeting with all of his employees, going through all of the dishes to be served that night. Many of Takeda’s recent decisions for 293 Wallace, including the pep talk circle (complete with each person sharing two “positives” from their lives) and his Monday night tastings are strongly influenced by his time as an intern at Noma. “It really helped fortify things that we were doing at the restaurant and it helped bring new ideas to the restaurant,” says Takeda. “Foraging
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is a big thing that we bring to the restaurant, using ingredients like Douglas fir, wild mushrooms, and different herbs that people generally wouldn’t use.” The list continues: sheep sorrel, ground elder, dandelion and stinging nettle are all examples of unique (but often naturally ubiquitous) ingredients in the revamped 293 cuisine. Over his 13 weeks in the Copenhagen restaurant, in an experience that was “very intense,” Takeda spent valuable time in the production kitchen and the service kitchen where he was thrown right into the fray with the full team and some of the other two dozen interns, doing lunch and dinner service. But more than half of his time
was spent in the fermentation lab at Noma alongside Lars Williams, head of research and development, an opportunity few of his counterparts were fortunate enough to get. “That’s where they’re creating new flavours and new products essentially,” Takeda says. “They’re creating their own misos and soy sauces and kombuchas and vinegars and such.” The inventive restaurant uses Danish or other Scandinavian ingredients as a base for those ferments. “Miso traditionally is made with soy beans but since that’s not native to the region, they’re using yellow split peas and rye bread and different ingredients that way,” Takeda says. Continued: WORLD/ p4