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SPRING 2019

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ALICE + OLIVIA . BALENCIAGA . BANDIER

BLUEMERCURY . BRUNELLO CUCINELLI

CAROLINA HERRER A . CARTIER . CELINE

CHANEL . CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN

DIOR . ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA

ESCADA . ETRO . FENDI . FR AME

HADLEIGH’S . HARRY WINSTON

HERMÈS . JAMES PERSE . JIMMY CHOO

LE LABO . LELA ROSE . LORO PIANA

MARKET . R AG & BONE . R ALPH LAUREN

ST. JOHN . THEORY . TOM FORD

TORY BURCH . VALENTINO

VERONICA BEARD . VINCE . WILLIAM NOBLE

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LO R O P I A N A

S TROLLI NG THE M EDIEVAL ST REE T S… Along the waterfront, my eye catches the shimmer of Monte Carlo.

I can hardly believe we were there last night, gallivanting through the glitz and glamour. Now we’re heading to charming Èze, for what we are told will be an unforgettable experience — a gourmet meal prepared by the Master Chef at the legendary La Chévre d’Or.

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EV ERY

LU X URY I NC LUD ED

DEPARTMENTS

Issue 19

THE FRONT PAGES What’s What | 18

From art, culture, and design to hotels, adventure, and travel.

AUTOS The Need for Speed | 26

Get behind the wheel of a race car for a genuine thrill.

WATCHES Drive Time | 38

Inspired by high performance and high precision.

JEWELRY Going Green | 48

Emerald, peridot, and tourmaline take on new meaning for spring.

NATURE Beauty in the Making | 54

Taking awareness beyond buzzwords.

Spring Fling

64

FASHION Spring Fling | 64

Welcome the season in Spanish-influenced style.

GETAWAYS Tennis, Anyone? | 78

Racquet-to-racquet encounters, on court and off, with current

and former champions.

ADVENTURE Riding the Old Ghost Trail | 88

New Zealand’s greatest single-track mountain biking route.

Drive Time

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WHAT’S HOT Above & Below | 124

Whether you’re skimming the waves or diving beneath them, this gear will keep you moving.

A celebration of time

Kalparisma Agenda

Manufactured entirely in Switzerland parmigiani.com

CELLINI JEWELERS 430 Park Ave New York T. (212) 888-0505

Call or text our concierge service to find out more (786) 481-1996

DEPARTMENTS Life in the Fast Lane

134

TECH Body Reboot | 130

New technology-driven products aim to do you good.

HEALTH Life in the Fast Lane | 134

Can starving yourself for days at a time extend your years and make you smarter?

BEAUTY Ageless Wonders | 142

An expanding genre of anti-aging products have come to market.

ARCHITECTURE & DESIGN Location, Location, Location | 168

These homes have the added benefit of close proximity to the world’s coolest sporting events.

FURNISHINGS From Kitchen Aids to At Your Service to Private Sanctuary | 184

Smart appliances, tabletop designs, and custom spa bathrooms.

Location, Location, Location

168

ARTIST PROFILE An Explosion of Art | 190 Cover artist Cai Guo-Qiang.

REAL ESTATE Living Well | 202

It’s all about catering to whole health.

THE LAST PAGES What’s Next | 206

From restaurants to bars to shopping.

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BEAUTY MEETS COMFORT & FIT

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FEATURES The Smart Set | 96 Polo has evolved into more than just ponies and a long wooden mallet.

Youthful Attraction | 104

Horse racing is searching for a new breed of spectator.

The Sport of Dance | 110

Capoeira is the active traveler’s way to experience Bahia’s Afro-Brazilian culture.

Changing Courses | 114

Top designers have carved out exceptional, out-of-the-way greens.

Next-Level Fitness | 140

One-on-one workout sessions at home will only take you so far.

Island Ties | 146

A getaway to Fiji’s top private-island resorts.

The Long Shot | 154

Youthful Attraction

104

Selling a top-shelf tequila could have been a non-starter.

And then came cristalino.

Classic Comebacks | 160

Reinventing six legendary hotels.

NextLevel Fitness

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Changing Courses

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ON THE COVER

C

hinese artist CAI GUO-QIANG is renowned

for works that light up the sky with computercontrolled fireworks programmed to explode

into specific shapes. It was Cai’s giant fireworks footprints that strode above Beijing to open the 2008 Olympics.

Gunpowder also colors his two-dimensional works on paper or canvas. Red Lilies (2018), from his Flora Commedia series, was recently on exhibit at the Uffizi Gallery in Florence. The image, which belongs to a private collector, could be mistaken for a NASA photograph of a cosmic phenomenon—but it represents an explosion of the artist’s own making.

Using his signature process, Cai placed a 4-square-foot canvas on the floor, spread varieties of gunpowder and arranged stencils over its surface, covered the setup with weighted cardboard sheets and another blank canvas, and set it ablaze. The remaining residue created the image, the upper half of which is reproduced on the cover. Green stems and red blooms evoke the titular flowers, a motif that Cai derived from paintings in the Uffizi, including Botticelli’s La Primavera. The Italian masterpiece also inspired City of Flowers in the Sky, a daytime fireworks display over Florence that Cai orchestrated to inaugurate his show last November.

Born in China, Cai lived in Japan before settling in New York. He travels frequently to meet the demand for his extraordinary and often thrilling presentations.

LUXURY MAGAZINE’s profile of Cai Guo-Qiang begins on page 190.

LUXURY MAGAZINE Produced exclusively for Luxury Card members.

PUBLISHED BY LUXURY CARD PUBLISHER Audrey Arnold audrey@luxurymagazine.com EDITOR IN CHIEF Deborah Frank

ADVERTISING SALES Detroit Dan Flavin Dflavin@flavinandassoc.net

CREATIVE DIRECTOR Jennifer Fahey

Dubai/UAE Alexandra Young Alex@konexinternational.com

COPY EDITORS Kersten Deck Jenna Sims

England/UK Rick Plata Gravitas Sales & Marketing Rick@gravitassales.com

PHOTO EDITOR Kristen Hill CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS Teru Onishi Jonathon Pozniak John Russo Andrew Yee CONTRIBUTING STYLISTS Paul Frederick Taylor Jacobson Heidi Meek

Italy Silvermedia, Ferruccio and Filippo Silvera Info@silvera.it Southeast Katherine Matthews Katherine@robinsonmedia.net West Coast Wanderlust Media Nicole Bordges Nicole@wanderlust-media.com Lisa Magnus Lisa@wanderlust-media.com

CONTRIBUTING WRITERS Jorge S. Arango Chris Brinlee Jr. Alexandra Cheney Roger Cox David Dodge Mark Ellwood Mark Hacking Jason Edward Kaufman David Keith Irene Rawlings Kathryn Romeyn Ted Alan Stedman Alix Strauss Shaun Tolson

All contents of LUXURY MAGAZINE are the intellectual property of Black Card Mag LLC and Black Card LLC d/b/a Luxury Card (“Publisher”) and/or the respective photographers, writers, artists, and advertising agencies; are protected by copyright and trademark laws; and may not be reproduced, republished, distributed, transmitted, displayed, broadcast or otherwise exploited in any manner without the express written permission of the copyright and trademark owners. (c) 2018 Black Card Mag LLC and Black Card LLC d/b/a Luxury Card. All rights reserved.

Views expressed are those of the authors and not necessarily those of the Publisher, which makes reasonable efforts to verify its content. Publisher expressly disclaims and does not assume responsibility for the validity of any claims or statements made, including content errors, omissions, or infringing content. Advertisements and offers are the responsibility of the individual advertising entities, and do not constitute a legal offer by Publisher. Publisher is not responsible for price fluctuations. Prices are based on those accurate at press time. Please consult with a Luxury Card Concierge for current prices.

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•What’s WHAT•

Art, Culture & Design

A throwback to 1950s glamour, the theater at the Faena Hotel Miami Beach features its newest production, Samsara Cabaret, a dazzling dance and jawdropping aerial show with stirring vocals (above). Performances Thursday, Friday, and Saturday nights with dinner shows Fridays and Saturdays. Tickets from $55. faenatheater.com

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abundant artwork as well as street food and the colorful migration of Chestnut Tiger butterflies. Buy a three-day ferry pass. Island hop. Take a selfie with Yayoi Kusama’s famed polka-dotted pumpkin on Naoshima. 2019 dates: April 26–May 26; July 19–August 25; September 28– November 4. setouchi-artfest.jp With the New Look in 1947, Christian Dior redefined the female silhouette and reinvigorated war-weary Paris. London’s V&A explores the enduring legacy of this larger-than-life fashion designer with a blockbuster exhibition that showcases over 500 objects: couture, sketches, and a selection of the designer’s personal photographs and bibliots. Christian Dior: Designer of Dreams. Through July 14. vam.ac.uk

Veteran art dealer Richard Feigen will auction five works from his storied private collection at Christie’s Old Master’s sale in New York on May 1. The trove—Old Masters, 18th-century British landscapes, and Baroque church art—is expected to fetch millions. christies.com The Shed is an architecturally extravagant, 200,000-square-foot art center designed

by Diller Scofidio + Renfro and Rockwell Group. Alex Poots, the Shed’s artistic director, envisions hosting an experimental, wide-ranging, and sometimes unexpected mix of exhibitions, performances, and lectures. Imagine a kung fu musical with shimmery songs remixed by pop-emo artist Sia. Opens April 5 in Manhattan’s Hudson Yards. theshed.org

Kimono Refashioned displays stunning, kimono-inspired garments (below) created by more than 30 iconic designers, including Issey Miyake, Sarah Burton for Alexander McQueen, Rei Kawakubo for Comme des Garçons, Chanel, and Tom Ford. Asian Art Museum in San Francisco through May 5. asianart.org

Billionaire art collector Grażyna Kulczyk of Poland opened a museum in January inside the remains of a 12th-century monastery in a small Swiss town near St. Moritz.

Muzeum Susch shows the work of women and “all artists whose work—perhaps for political, social, or economic reasons—has not received appropriate recognition,” she says. muzeumsusch.ch

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Japan’s massive contemporary art festival Setouchi Triennale, held every three years at Japan’s Seto Inland Sea (12 islands and two coastal cities), brings out

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The most significant Frida Kahlo exhibition (above) in a decade reaffirms her artistic stature with more than 300 sketches, paintings, and other objects, but also provides a peek into her private life through her Tehuana-inspired clothing and personal objects (medical corsets, cosmetics, photographs) from Casa Azul, her beloved home-turned-museum in Mexico City.

Frida Kahlo: Appearances Can Be Deceiving.

Brooklyn Museum through May 12. brooklynmuseum.org w

Courtesy Images From Top: Faena Hotel Miami Beach; 2018 Banco de México Diego Rivera Frida Kahlo Museums Trust, Mexico, D.F./Artists Rights Society (ARS), New York; The Kyoto Costume Institute/Takashi Hatakeyama

THE FRONT PAGES

You can find a two-story home anywhere.

Here, you’ll find a lifetime of stories.

Enchanting family moments are part of everyday life at Golden Oak at Walt DisneyWorld Resort.

Right now, you can live in this luxurious private community with legendary Disney service featuring custom homes from $2 million. Welcome home to where the magic is endless.

Golden Oak Realty | 407.939.5711 | DisneyGoldenOak.com/Retreat Obtain the Property Report required by Federal law and read it before signing anything. No Federal agency has judged the merits or value, if any, of this property. This does not constitute an offer to sell, or a solicitation to buy, real estate to Residents of any state or jurisdiction where prohibited by law, or where prior registration is required but has not yet been fulfilled. For NY Residents: THE COMPLETE OFFERING TERMS FOR THE SALE OF LOTS ARE IN THE CPS-12 APPLICATIONS AVAILABLE FROM OFFEROR, GOLDEN OAK DEVELOPMENT, LLC. FILE NOS. CP16-0107 (Phases 2 and 4) and CP16-0069 (Phase 3).

For California Residents: WARNING: THE CALIFORNIA DEPARTMENT OF REAL ESTATE HAS NOT INSPECTED, EXAMINED OR QUALIFIED THIS OFFERING. PA REGISTRATION No. OL001147. KY REGISTRATION No. R-176. OKLAHOMA OFFEREES SHOULD OBTAIN AN OKLAHOMA PUBLIC OFFERING STATEMENT FROM THE DEVELOPER AND READ IT BEFORE SIGNING ANY DOCUMENTS. THE OKLAHOMA SECURITIES COMMISSION NEITHER RECOMMENDS THE PURCHASE OF THE PROPERTY NOR APPROVES THE MERITS OF THE OFFERING. Void where prohibited by law. Equal Housing Opportunity. Broker participation welcome.

© Disney DGO-19-561203

Hotels

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Ian Schrager’s sleek brand launched a second New York City hotel—The Times Square EDITION—452 rooms and suites, a sprawling fitness center, and a John Fraser–helmed restaurant that includes a 5,800-square-foot beer garden overlooking Times Square. From $270. editionhotels.com A former mail-sorting center, Brach Paris was redesigned by Philippe Starck as a groovy hotel—floor-to-ceiling windows, warm colors, wood-paneled walls, high ceilings, lots of marble, fluted glass, and antiques. A huge subterranean gym has two pools, a sauna, a hammam, and private massage rooms. From $500. brachparis.com

A Victorian coaching inn, the Fife Arms got a dramatic makeover by Iwan and Manuela Wirth, the owners of art powerhouse Hauser & Wirth. The 46 rooms are filled with newly commissioned and traditional art; a spa offers treatments inspired by the Scottish Highlands; a knowledgeable ghillie helps guests fly fish the local rivers. From $390. thefifearms.com

MAGNIFICENT MAKEOVERS

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Set in 18 acres of tropical gardens, Vietnam’s Anantara Quy Nhon offers oneor two-bedroom villas with an infinity pool, a well-stocked wine cellar, and their own butler. Restaurants celebrate local seafood; a spa offers massage and mindfulness in an indoor-outdoor setting. From $425. anantara.com Six Senses arrived in the kingdom of Bhutan last year with five distinct lodges (82 suites) located in the country’s most scenic valleys (below). Each lodge offers a unique journey to ancient temples and sacred sites. In Punakha, experience guided meditation while looking across the deep Thimphu Valley to the 170-foot-tall Buddha Dordenma statue. From $1,385/ night, all-inclusive. sixsenses.com

On the Athens Riviera, Four Seasons Hotel Astir Palace (above), a laid-back seaside escape, has 303 guest rooms, suites, and bungalows overlooking the Aegean Sea. Three pools and three private beaches.

Restaurants serve just-caught seafood.

Aristotle’s Cigar Bar stocks fine cigars and rare cognacs. From $520. fourseasons.com

The Ritz-Carlton, Central Park has a new look—rooms and suites thoughtfully transformed to feel like a fashionable private home. The refreshed Club Lounge has a dedicated concierge and unparalleled Central Park views. ritzcarlton.com Hotel de Paris Monte-Carlo reveals a $280 million, four-year renovation complete with white marble floors, sleek wood furniture, Louis XVI–style pieces, bronze fabrics, and Murano glass chandeliers. Prince Rainier III and Princess Grace suites have extensive terraces and outdoor pools (the sun always shines in Monaco). montecarlosbm.com

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Hotel Peter & Paul, a long-vacant, 19thcentury Catholic church, school, convent, and rectory in New Orleans’ Marigny district has been reimagined by ASH NYC and Nathalie Jordi in rich monochromatic color palettes, baroque-style wood furnishings, and simple white linens.

71 rooms—each different; the Mother Superior Room has a well-concealed bar.

From $190. hotelpeterandpaul.com w

Courtesy Images From Top: Bankside Hotel/Simon Callaghan; Four Seasons Hotel Astir Palace; Six Senses Bhutan

Design-forward, art-filled, and on the south bank of the Thames, Bankside Hotel (above) is close to the Tate Modern and the National Theatre. The six-story glass building has 161 rooms and suites, gallerylike art installations, stylish furnishings, and an emphasis on sustainability. From $375. banksidehotel.com

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Adventure & Travel

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Business Jet. Only 12 couples with a private car and guide for each couple. September 8–12. $59,890/person. remotelands.com Adventure travel company Eleven Experience has opened Rio Palena Lodge on the Futaleufu River, a prime place for fishing in the Andes. Helicopter fly-outs for totally remote angling. Eight nights; $7,350/person. Eleven Angling offers bespoke fly-fishing experiences all over the world—from glacier-carved rivers in Iceland to redfish-filled marshes in Louisiana. elevenexperience.com

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Learn to drive like champion Will Power.

Formula Experiences, a race car driving resort, opens at the Virginia International Raceway. Choose from a fleet of British Radical SR series and Ligier F4 racing cars. Drive fast on the track. Then, get a massage and a shot of locally distilled bourbon before sitting down to some epic Southern cooking. From $2,900/day. formulaexperiences.com

Make your own gin in a Hogwarts-esque room full of copper stills (above). From $125/person. strathmashie.co.uk; daffysgin.com/gin-school

Whisky may be Scotland’s national drink, but gin is catching up. Learn to make gin at Strathmashie House in Cairngorms National Park. Forage for botanicals (yarrow, bog myrtle, and viola) via SUP.

Aman Private Jet Expedition across China

by Remote Lands (below left). Play with pandas in Chengdu. Enjoy a Champagne lunch on The Great Wall. See terracotta warriors in Xi’an. Travel by Boeing

Spring 2019

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Discover Morocco with Naya Traveler’s co-founder Sarah Casewit, who grew up in this extraordinary country. A small group (only 12 people) explore the medieval city of Fez, shop the medina in Marrakesh, and spend a night glamping in the Sahara— where the stars seem close enough to touch.

Stay in private homes and meet local artists who are Casewit’s longtime friends. June 3–12. $4,990/person. nayatraveler.com

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Chefs Thomas Keller, Masaharu Morimoto, and Charlie Palmer partner with Napa Valley wineries in the most indulgent event on the PGA tour, the Safeway Open (below right). Live concerts by performers like Sammy Hagar and The Circle, Young the Giant, and Billy Idol.

And championship golf. September 23–29.

Daily tickets from $40. safewayopen.com w

Courtesy Images Clockwise From Top: Montreux Jazz Festival/JM-EmilienItim; Courtesy Strathmashie Distillery/Ed Smith; Safeway Open; Remote Lands

For two weeks in summer, the hills are alive with the sound of jazz. The 53rd Montreux Jazz Festival (above) will host two concerts

by Elton John as part of his Farewell Yellow Brick Road tour. Montreux, Switzerland.

June 28–July 13. montreuxjazzfestival.com

Sleep in a lavish, fresco-filled apartment that’s part of Palazzo Pamphilj (the Pope’s Palace) in Rome. The splendid stay includes private visits to other noble palaces and cellar door tastings in ancient wine vaults.

Holy Deer San Lorenzo City Lodge. From $8,500/night. sanlorenzolodges.com

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Unplug. Get in shape. Reconnect with nature.

Kasiiya Papagaya (above) is set on more than 120 lush acres on Costa Rica’s Pacific Coast. Tented suites—on the beach or perched on jungle cliffs. Activities: yoga, spa treatments with indigenous herbs, and, for your inner child, tree climbing. From $500/night. kasiiya.com Wellness-inspired Small Group Journeys from Abercrombie & Kent. Just 18 guests on five-star pilgrimages (below left). Immersion into ancient practices promoting mindfulness, health, and wellbeing. Southeast Asia, India, Peru, and Kenya are on the 2019 list. From $7,395/ person for 10 days. abercrombiekent.com

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The Redbury New York hotel partners with the spa Modrn Sanctuary to bring holistic wellness to guests (below)—including guided relaxation, stress and energy management, chakra-balancing massage, and access to a Wellness Concierge. modrnsanctuary.com u —Irene Rawlings

Blackberry Farm offers retreats that combine the wilderness experience with the luxury of a spa vacation. Wellness and Wisdom (April 28–May 1); Deep Healing Woods Immersion (May 12–15). From $900, plus room (from $1,245/night). blackberryfarm.com Adler Spa Resort Balance (30 suites and a comprehensive medical, weight-loss, and stress-management spa) is located in Italy’s stunning Southern Alps (below right). Olympians and big-name athletes swear by the new NanoVi oxygen therapy.

From $400/person. adler-balance.com

Blue World Voyages launches a small (350-passenger) ship specifically for active and wellness-minded adults. The inaugural cruise (2020) will stop at pocket-sized Mediterranean ports (below) in Greece, Italy, Spain, and Croatia. In addition, 24 one- and two-bedroom residences are available for sale. blueworldvoyages.com

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Courtesy Images Clockwise From Top: Kasiiya Papagayo; Blue World Voyages; The Redbury New York; Adler Spa Resort Balance; Abercrombie & Kent/Justin Weiler

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AUTOS

The Need For Speed

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word of caution: Racing is a pursuit with no real finish line. It’s a sport that tests your courage, your physical strength, and your mental capacity every single lap. But if you have the stamina to pursue it, the first and most important step is securing top-level instruction.

“There is not a single driver at the highest peak of his skills who would not be assisted by wisdom and observations that he probably had never thought of,” says three-time World Drivers’ Champion Sir Jackie Stewart.

“You go to ski, play golf or tennis, ride equestrian, anything you like to think of—and coaching is just one of the most important things.”

To one degree or another, every manufacturer of high-performance vehicles offers some form of advanced driving instruction. Two manufacturers in particular, McLaren and Ferrari, have a fascinating approach: a single-ladder system that’s consistent no matter where in the world the courses take place. Whenever possible, customers are also paired with the same driving coach as they progress from one course to the next and from one country to the next. In this way, the focus is squarely on the driver-coach relationship—setting the stage for rapid progress. w

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A FEW LAPS BEHIND THE WHEEL OF A RACE CAR IS A GENUINE THRILL. BUT LEARNING THE TRUE ART AND CRAFT OF RACING IS A GOAL WORTH PURSUING, ESPECIALLY IF YOU’RE AN ADRENALINE SEEKER.

by Mark Hacking

Pure McLaren Familiar to motorsport fans everywhere, the McLaren race team, founded by Bruce McLaren, began competing in the Formula One World Championship in 1966—the second-longest continuous run at the very top echelon of racing.

Though the brand has competed in various forms of motorsport ever since, customer training is a relatively new venture. The reason: McLaren only returned to road-car production on a fulltime basis in 2011 with the introduction of the 12C sports car.

That same year, the Pure McLaren suite of driving courses was introduced in Europe. Other markets followed, including North America, which kicked off just last year. Customers around the world can now enroll in courses that run the gamut from track driving basics to the high-level training needed to succeed in professional racing.

The last step before jumping into a full-blown race car is the Performance Academy Track Advanced program.

Though both the McLaren 720S or 600LT used for this level are street-legal, their performance is comparable to that of the McLaren 570S GT4, the race car used for all the successive levels. The 720S can rocket to 60 mph in just 2.8 seconds and has a top speed of 212 mph—a legitimate supercar, to be sure.

One such experience takes place at The Thermal Club, a private racetrack facility in the Coachella Valley that’s considered one of the top “country club racetracks” in the world. The day begins with an early morning briefing in the lounge as the guttural roar of high-performance engines bounces off the buildings and guardrails that line the three linked tracks. Students then walk to the pit lane to meet their

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coaches, like former Le Mans winner Ralf Kelleners, for a quick overview of the various controls and switches, which trigger different settings for the engine, suspension, and stability control system.

“This is a 720-horsepower car,” Kelleners forewarns. “That’s a lot.”

The first two sessions are reserved for learning the proper racing line around the 18-turn configuration. Coaches ride shotgun the entire time so they can analyze every move, identify every mistake, and then work out how to present their findings without ruining a student’s self-confidence. The 720S is also fitted with onboard video and data recording equipment—so, if the coach happens to miss some fault, there’s really nowhere to hide.

Not every advanced driving course places coaches in the cars. Some rely on pace drivers who show students the racing line in lead-and-follow exercises.

Others lean more heavily on video, with multiple cameras placed in the car. But it’s tough to beat having an experienced coach riding alongside, feeling how your driving is either enabling the car to go faster or preventing it from doing so.

The 720S is more technological in nature than other supercars, and it requires a more precise and patient approach to driving. Some supercars are bludgeons; the 720S is a laser. By the end of the morning, spurred on by more experience with the car and the coach, lap times can improve. Driving a car on a racetrack is an expensive pursuit, so your time should be spent wisely. For some people, the experience itself is a big enough return on investment. For others, it would be frustrating to thrash around without becoming a faster driver. With a focus on top-level advice and a fleet of world-class supercars, Pure McLaren caters to both audiences. $8,000 as tested; mclaren.com w

Courtesy McLaren/Christopher McNeil (5)

The Pure McLaren racing course came to North America last year and features the 720S and 600LT.

Spring 2019

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30 Spring 2019

Courtesy Ferrari/Patrik Giardino (5)

Ferrari’s two-day racing course focuses exclusively on the 488 Challenge race car.

FERRARI CORSO PILOTA Only one car manufacturer has raced in Formula One every year since 1950, the inaugural season for the series—that manufacturer is Ferrari. For the Italian outfit, F1 is at the core of all products and all activities, including its slate of Corso Pilota driving courses, which is offered in Europe and North America (the Sport and Advanced courses are available in Asia).

The introductory level caters to absolute beginners with no track experience, putting them behind the wheel of a variety of road-going Ferrari models. The final level focuses exclusively on the Ferrari 488 Challenge race car and prepares clients for motorsports competition. While every modern Ferrari is capable of stratospheric levels of performance, it’s nevertheless a big jump to go from a road car to a race car.

The 488 Challenge utilizes the same 660-horsepower engine as the streetlegal 488, but that’s roughly where the similarities end. The race version has different engine settings, different gear ratios for the dual-clutch automatic transmission, and a more aerodynamic body kit with a massive rear wing. There’s also a stripped-out interior, full roll cage, six-point racing harness, and a dizzying array of switches.

One of those switches operates the air-conditioning system, which is really warm air blowing meekly through the vents. “You need to suffer if you want

to become a racing driver!” exclaims Ferdinando Monfardini, an ex-GP2 racer who once battled the likes of Lewis Hamilton and is now a coach at the twoday Corso Pilota at The Thermal Club.

The word “suffer” is apt. Pushing a race car to its theoretical limits is not a comfortable activity. You must wear a helmet, balaclava, driving suit, socks, shoes, and gloves, all of which incorporate fire-resistant material. It’s not beachwear, to put it mildly. There’s also the feeling of being constricted in the cockpit of the car. Once you’re in the driver’s seat, the mechanics will want to cinch the racing harness as tightly as possible. This enables you to better feel how the car is moving in relation to the surface of the track. They also want your seat to be as low as possible to preserve a low center of gravity, which helps give the car better handling. You may protest that you can’t see well enough in any direction and your coach will encourage you to give it a shot anyway. Make no mistake; this is not your typical trackdriving experience.

Then there’s the beauty of having two full days: it allows more time to study the video, peruse the graphs created by the data recorder, and pause for introspection. For the person who takes the act of driving race cars seriously, Corso Pilota represents an environment rife with opportunities for selfimprovement. The level of support from the coaches is first-rate and the Ferrari 488 Challenge is an absolute monster. If you can master this level, you’re ready to race. From $15,290; ferrari.com w

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Ready To Race

Mercedes-AMG GT R Pro

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Every car ever built has been raced at some point, in some form or fashion, on some kind of closed course. It’s human nature, after all, to push our machinery to its natural-born limits. These days, high-performance cars that look remarkably similar to those at your local dealership are in competition around the world—most notably in races such as the 24 Hours of Le Mans and the Rolex 24 at Daytona. Here, five street-legal supercars that are earning race wins and generating thrills wherever they go.

Acura NSX

2020 Mercedes-AMG GT R PRO

Courtesy Acura. Opposite page: Courtesy Mercedes-Benz USA

THE SPECS

2019 Acura NSX THE SPECS

Base Price Not available at press time Engine Twin-turbocharged 4.0L V8 Horsepower 577 hp Torque 516 lb-ft Configuration Front-engine / Rear-wheel drive Transmission 7-speed dual-clutch automatic 0-60 mph 3.5 seconds Top Speed 198 mph

Base Price $157,500 Engine Twin-turbocharged 3.5L V6 hybrid Horsepower 573 hp Torque 476 lb-ft Configuration Mid-engine / All-wheel drive Transmission 9-speed dual-clutch automatic 0-60 mph 3 seconds (est.)

Top Speed 191 mph

The second supercar developed in-house by the tuning gurus at Mercedes-AMG, the AMG GT comes in a variety of forms ranging from grand-touring superstar to utter track fiend. The new MercedesAMG GT R Pro lands firmly in the latter category.

Although the GT R Pro uses the same twin-turbo V8 engine as the AMG GT R, it achieves higher levels of performance through less obvious means. The new front fascia showcases all sorts of aerodynamic trickery and a new rear wing promises increased downforce.

A new adjustable coil-over suspension system and adjustable torsion bars at both ends of the car allow the driver to create the perfect setup for all manner of track conditions. And the new carbon-fiber roof provides enough headroom for helmet-clad drivers.

The only hybrid supercar on this list, the Acura NSX is as technologically advanced as it gets. The powertrain blends together a twin-turbocharged V6 gas engine, electric motors at each front wheel, and a third electric motor slotted between the engine and the transmission. The result is 573 total system horsepower and, more impressively, 476 lb-ft of torque, much of it available from the get-go due to the lightning-quick response of electrification. To complete the picture, the NSX also comes standard with launch control, torque-vectoring all-wheel drive, and four different drive modes ranging from utterly silent to completely manic. The race version of the NSX utilizes just the gas engine to secure GT class wins, an indication of just how strong the engineering is throughout. w

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THE SPECS Base Price Not available at press time Engine 5.0L V8 Horsepower 472 hp Torque 395 lb-ft Configuration Rear-engine / Rear-wheel drive Transmission 8-speed automatic 0-60 mph 4 seconds (est.)

Top Speed 190 mph

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With little advance notice, Toyota has become a force in the world of international motorsports competition, winning both the 24 Hours of Le Mans and the Dakar Rally over the past year. In GT racing circles, the luxury division of Toyota is charged with carrying the torch and the Lexus RC F is the high-performance ride of choice. For 2020, this super-coupe has been given a cosmetic overhaul and gains an extremely limited spin-off, the Track Edition. This special iteration packs a carbon-fiber roof, hood, and rear wing; loses 176 pounds in the process; and creates the most desirable Lexus since the discontinued LFA.

Courtesy Lexus/Dejan Sokolovski. Opposite Page: Courtesy Audi

2020 Lexus RC F Track Edition

2020 Audi R8 Performance Quattro THE SPECS Base Price Not available at press time Engine 5.2L V10 Horsepower 612 hp Torque 428 lb-ft Configuration Mid-engine / All-wheel drive Transmission 7-speed dual-clutch automatic 0-60 mph 3.1 seconds Top Speed 206 mph

First introduced to the world in 2007, the Audi R8 has, little by little, become a better and better performance-car proposition. The new 2020 model was developed in parallel with the R8 LMS GT3 and GT4 race versions and similarities among the three abound. Audi engineers estimate that fully half the parts list carries over from the race car to the road-going version. At launch, two versions of the street-legal R8 will be available, both powered by a 5.2L V10, both in coupe or convertible form. Compared to previous iterations, this new R8 is faster (particularly the higher-output Performance Quattro) and more dynamic, courtesy of a revised suspension system and more responsive steering. Down the road, other versions will follow, including a rear-wheel drive R8 that’s even closer to the LMS models. w

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2020 Porsche 911 Carrera S THE SPECS

Courtesy Porsche/Daniel Wollstein

Base Price $113,300 Engine Twin-turbocharged 3.0L flat-6 Horsepower 443 hp Torque 390 lb-ft Configuration Rear-engine / Rear-wheel drive Transmission 8-speed dual-clutch automatic 0-60 mph 3.3 seconds (w/ Sport Chrono Package) Top Speed 190 mph

With the release of an all-new, eighth-generation model, Porsche has completely reframed the concept of “the everyday supercar.� In the past, to get authentic supercar levels of performance, you needed to opt for the 911 Turbo or the GT2 or the GT3. Not anymore: The 2020 Porsche 911 Carrera S, one step up from the eventual base version of the new car, is a rocket in a straight line and a monster on the track. Of the many improvements over the previous iteration, the highlights are: more horsepower and torque from the twin-turbo boxer engine, a new 8-speed PDK transmission, new steering, new suspension, and an oversized rear tire for added grip. These changes are welcome on the track but equally suited to the open road, where conditions are less controlled and the kids in the backseat are more vocal. u

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WATCHES

DRIVE TIME INSPIRED BY HIGH PERFORMANCE AND HIGH PRECISION, THESE WATCHES REPRESENT A WINNING COMBINATION OF MOTORSPORTS AND HOROLOGICAL INNOVATIONS. Photography TERU ONISHI Market Editor PAUL FREDERICK

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The skeletonized dial of the JACOB & CO. Epic X Racing collection emulates looking into a high-powered engine.

The bold case colors and inserts of each individually numbered piece represent the adrenaline sensation of speeding down a track.

This limited-edition, vintage model BELL & ROSS chronograph celebrates the return of the French Grand Prix and the brand’s partnership with the Renault Sport Formula One Team.

It features a carbon-fiber dial and numerals in racing typography.

JACOB & CO. Epic X Racing, $19,800; jacobandco.com

BELL & ROSS BR V2-94 RS18, $5,400; bellross.com Spring 2019

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HUBLOT’s eight-year collaboration with Ferrari continues with this latest edition that includes details inspired by the car’s dashboard, tachometer, wheel rims, and leather seats.

HUBLOT Big Bang Ferrari Unico Titanium, $26,200; hublot.com

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Last year, CHOPARD celebrated 30 years as the official timekeeper of Italy’s legendary Mille Miglia car rally that covers 1,000 miles from Brescia to Rome. And each year it has created a limited, numbered series of watches that represent the partnership.

Launched in 1963, TAG HEUER’s Carrera collection has adorned the wrists of many racers throughout their careers. This year’s vintage-inspired chronograph features a tachymeter scale among other motorsports references.

CHOPARD Mille Miglia GTS Power Control, $6,330; chopard.com

TAG HEUER Carrera Calibre 16, $4,350; tagheuer.com Spring 2019

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PARMIGIANI FLEURIER drew inspiration for this chronograph from Bugatti’s futuristic body, reproducing the rivet that crosses the car from front to back in the four lugs around the case. It also features a tachymeter scale to measure speed of driving.

PARMIGIANI FLEURIER Bugatti Aerolithe Performance, $22,700; osterjewelers.com

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ZENITH continues its creative partnership with Land Rover codesigning this limited-edition timepiece with the same sexy appeal as the Evoque SUV. Notable themes include the diamond motif of the rubber strap and turquoise blue accents also used on the vehicle’s steering wheel and seats.

ZENITH Defy Classic Range Rover, $7,500; zenith-watches.com

Originally released in 1959 for collectors, this limited-edition OMEGA has been updated with black subdials and a white pulsometer scale used to check heartbeats per minute. Another nod to racing is the black leather strap with a microperforated white rubber interior.

OMEGA Speedmaster CK2998, $6,500; omegawatches.com

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BULGARI has been in partnership with Maserati since 2012, creating timepieces with an Italian identity that’s hard to miss. The automotive brand’s trident emblem is subtly stitched into the leather band and the car’s rev counter is recalled in the watch’s striking dial.

BULGARI Octo Maserati GranSport, $12,800; bulgari.com

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For the past decade, BLANCPAIN has been involved in GT racing and championing “gentleman drivers.”

As the official timekeeper of the British GT Championship, it offers brand devotees behind-the-scenes experiences at each competition.

BLANCPAIN L’Evolution Flyback Chronograph, $18,600; blancpain.com

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THE WINNER’S CIRCLE THE ROLEX DAYTONA TAKES FIRST PLACE AS THE MOTORSPORTS INDUSTRY’S COVETED TIMEPIECE.

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Clockwise from top: The start of the Formula One 2018 Rolex Australian Grand Prix; the 1963 Rolex Oyster Perpetual Cosmograph Daytona designed specifically for race car drivers; Sir Malcolm Campbell famously donned a Rolex Oyster for his record-breaking run; Daytona Beach 1955; the Rolex 24 at Daytona endurance race today. and featured a prominent tachymeter scale for calculating speed on the bezel. In 1992 the iconic endurance race became officially known as the Rolex 24 at Daytona. That race and the Rolexsponsored 24 Hours of Le Mans are the only sporting events where people spend millions and drivers train for years just to win a watch. Yet, it is no ordinary timepiece but a specially engraved Cosmograph Daytona.

Recently, the brand partnered with the FIA World Endurance Championship, further strengthening its relationship with endurance racing, a sport that requires incredible stamina, skill, and concentration. Actively supporting sports—in addition to exploration, the arts, and the environment—emphasizes Rolex’s commitment to performance at the highest levels, and a standard that’s —Deborah Frank unsurpassable. u

Courtesy Rolex (5)

ouring the broadcast technical center at a Formula One race, it quickly becomes apparent why Rolex is the Grand Prix’s global partner and official timepiece with the Rolex Clock jutting out over pit lane at each race. The technical center is made up of 160 tons of equipment that ship to every competition in two jumbo cargo planes; it is the biggest, most complicated transportable data center in the world.

And its custom systems and software represent an impressive commitment to groundbreaking technology and engineering precision. It’s this shared pursuit of performance and excellence that unites Rolex and Formula One. “We make the spectacle more spectacular,” exclaimed Formula One Technical Director Andrew James, as the 2019 FIA Formula One World Championship kicked off March 17 in Australia. The series will span 21 races in 21 countries across four continents.

According to champion Australian racing driver Mark Webber, “The synergies and links between motorsports and watchmaking are extremely close.

It goes without saying that timing is at the heart of the sport. The drivers, teams, and event organizers live by time, whether we are designing a car or are up against the split seconds on the stopwatch during a race.”

The Rolex alliance with motorsports dates back to the 1930s when Sir Malcolm Campbell broke the 300 mph barrier at the wheel of his World Land Speed Record car while wearing a Rolex.

Today’s highly coveted sports watch, the Rolex Oyster Perpetual Cosmograph Daytona, was named for the famous Florida speedway. It was introduced in 1963 specifically for race car drivers

漀甀爀 眀椀渀攀猀 愀爀攀 挀攀氀攀戀爀愀琀攀搀 昀漀爀 琀栀攀椀爀 甀渀椀焀甀攀 琀攀爀爀漀椀爀 愀渀搀 猀攀渀猀攀 漀昀 瀀氀愀挀攀⸀ 䈀漀爀搀攀愀甀砀 愀琀 椀琀猀 昀椀渀攀猀琀⸀ 眀眀眀⸀挀栀愀琀攀愀甀瀀攀礀昀愀甀爀攀猀⸀挀漀洀

JEWELRY

JACOB & CO. Emerald and diamond earrings in platinum, price upon request; jacobandco.com

Going

GREEN EMERALD, PERIDOT, AND TOURMALINE TAKE ON NEW MEANING FOR SPRING. Photography TERU ONISHI Market Editor PAUL FREDERICK

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ASSAEL Blue-green tourmaline and Tahitian pearl ring in platinum, $11,800; neimanmarcus.com DAVID YURMAN Emerald and diamond Stax ring in white gold, price upon request; davidyurman.com

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CAROLINA NEVES Gemfields emerald and diamond earrings in yellow gold, $6,790; musexmuse.com NINA RUNSDORF Emerald and diamond Flip ring in yellow gold, $13,000; nsrjewelry.com

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PICCHIOTTI Green peridot ring in white and rose gold, $14,700; tinyjewelbox.com

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IRENE NEUWIRTH Bi-color tourmaline and diamond one-of-a-kind single earring in white and rose gold (left), price upon request; emerald, green tourmaline, and diamond one-of-a-kind single earring in white and rose gold, price upon request; and green tourmaline and diamond ring in yellow gold, $4,070; ireneneuwirth.com

SYLVA & CIE Emerald earrings in yellow gold, $19,625; elysewalker.com TIFFANY & CO. Green tourmaline Paloma’s Studio ring in yellow gold, $6,500; tiffany.com

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NATURE

Pete Oxford/Age Fotostock

The southern African nation of Namibia supplies ingredients, like oil from the marula tree, for a variety of natural skincare and fragrance products.

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BEAUTY in the

MAKING

Taking awareness beyond buzzwords like “organic,” the formulas we spray and slather matter—not only to the environment but to humankind.

by Kathryn Romeyn

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he extreme growth of the green beauty industry—valued at more than $11 billion globally in 2016 and projected to hit almost $22 billion by 2024—has led to a proliferation of “natural” products but, says globetrotting clean-beauty leader Lina Hanson: “There are so many different aspects of an ingredient to take into account—how has it been processed, and where does it come from?” Truly conscious, discerning consumers are recognizing the implications of what and who their purchases support, or who they’re marginalizing. Hanson, for one, is considering making some of her cult-loved Global Beauty products seasonal—think of the approach of farm-to-table restaurants.

Barb Stegemann, who founded Nova Scotia– based fragrance label The 7 Virtues with the mantra, “make perfume, not war,” says, “Products should be cruelty-free and not contain harmful chemicals, and of course, they should enhance people’s lives.” Stegemann’s fair trade products launched nine years ago in two stores, and are expected to be in 500 this year.

Athena Hewett of the natural line Monastery in San Francisco removed eucalyptus from her bestselling Hydra Botanical Face Hydrosol when her source told her about the environmentally unfriendly practices of accessing baby leaves. “He’s all about only sourcing things that are providing good for the community, and he didn’t feel that way about Nepal’s eucalyptus,” she says of the negative practice depleting natural forests. Instead, she’s constantly on the lookout for mutually beneficial products to incorporate, such as rare and gentle leaf wax made on a farm in South Africa. Hewett pays farmers more for their modest yield than they’d receive from selling the whole flowers.

In Afghanistan, Stegemann offers farmers more money for rose and orange blossom than they are paid for growing illegal poppies for heroin, which comes with the added need of protecting their families from violent fates. “We started wanting to help farmers in Afghanistan against the Taliban,” she says. Her perfume business began with the idea that women have buying power, and she set out to harness it for good by fighting big issues of war and poverty with quality products women want to buy.

“We were doing this before anyone knew what social enterprise was,” says Stegemann. “We just knew it was the right thing to do. And now it’s cool.”

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Damascene rose and orange blossom (right) are helping farmers in Afghanistan avoid involvement in the heroin trade. Opposite, top right and center: Kalahari melon and Namibian myrrh cultivation is helping communities prosper.

From Top: Age Fotostock/Alamy; imageBROKER/Alamy; VisionsPictures/Minden Pictures. Opposite Page: Squire Fox/August Image

Afghanistan

Inspired by her best friend who served as a Canadian army captain in Afghanistan, Stegemann began her business by offering farmers in Jalalabad twice their wages to grow damascene rose and orange blossom in lieu of poppies, a key ingredient in heroin.

“When the poppy came in, all kinds of corruption and terrorism began destroying people’s lives,” she says. Her local supplier Abdullah Arsala works with NGOs to ensure transparency, fair wages, and safety for his farmers. Despite wartime challenges, Arsala has doubled his distillery production in recent years in response to demand. He has also begun teaching local women to cultivate rose so they can make candles to sell in the markets and earn additional money.

Deeper than the illegal heroin trade is Afghanistan’s history of great kings’ orange groves, which functioned as places of gathering, learning, and hosting poetry festivals.

The country’s future may be in orange blossom, saffron, and anxiety-reducing neroli, all of which produce sustainable, profitable yields. Neroli is backbreaking to harvest, an effort done mostly by men who go up into the trees, but everyone ultimately benefits.

By not growing poppies, farmers also save their daughters from the risk of becoming Taliban opium brides.

“Growing legal crops is protecting entire families,” says Stegemann.

Namibia

The southern African nation of Namibia supplies ingredients for a surprising variety of natural skincare and fragrance products, namely marula, Kalahari melon seed (KMS) oil, and Namibian myrrh.

Marula is prevalent in other countries, but KMS oil and myrrh have promising opportunities on the global market.

Hanson, an admitted oil snob, discovered KMS oil six years ago and after experimentation found it the perfect ingredient to lead her Global Baby/Sensitive Serum. The deal was sealed when she found the commercially cultivated cousin of watermelon grown in the Kalahari’s sandy soil to be super sustainable, harvested from the wild by a women’s cooperative, and processed at a community-owned factory.

For these relatively fledgling industries, organization has been key to getting products on the international market, which is empowering to the female population, who both harvest and manage plant resources. A major supplier of Namibian myrrh, Opuwo Processing Facility works with communal conservancies and community forests in northwestern Namibia to buy the raw material collected by semi-nomadic pastoralist females trained in sustainable, non-damaging techniques. They distill it into an essential oil in a factory owned and operated by a trust with representatives from communal conservancies in the area. Without middlemen, the trust directly supplies V. Mane Fils, who does fragrance formulations for Estée Lauder.

“In the Ovahimba culture, women traditionally do not have access to money,” says Amber Nott, who manages the website and marketing for the Opuwo Processing Facility, adding that their wealth in livestock leaves them cash-poor and extremely vulnerable to climatic conditions. Since they are the majority of harvesters and paid immediately for their collection, they gain better access to food, transportation, health care, and school fees. “They do not have to wait for their husbands to return from herding cattle,” says Nott. w

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Haiti

Rwanda

In parts of the world, social enterprise means getting a little creative. Though patchouli has been largely harvested in Indonesia, a dwindling global supply has opened doors for new supply lines. Rwandan Nicholas Hitimana, who studied in Scotland and desired to return to his home to give employment and security to the adult orphan survivors and HIV widows of the 1994 genocide, founded the community-interest agribusiness Ikirezi, which distills patchouli, pure geranium, and other herbal oils.

The 7 Virtues’ Stegemann finds joy in the fact farmers earn three times the income for patchouli over coffee.

“They can build homes and buy school uniforms for their children, who can educate themselves out of poverty and live their dreams,” she says. “That to me is why fair trade is so crucial.” The work collecting patchouli, a bushy herb, is done by both men and women, who lay it out to dry before a fire distillation process. “Literally the liquid gold, as they call it, pours out,” says Stegemann of what she says is “one of the most important essential oils in the world.” The product, added as a fragrance to both soap and cleaning products, is an attractive prospect because the shelf life is very long and practically guarantees income—giving Rwanda the possibility of becoming a major player in the clean-beauty industry.

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Clockwise from top left: A field of vetiver in Haiti; drying vanilla beans in Madagascar; unripe vanilla pods hanging on the vine; a Rwandan patchouli farm where the shrub is harvested and dried.

Clockwise From Left: Robert Harding Picture Library/National Geographic Image Collection; Panther Media GmbH/Alamy; Tommy Trenchard/Panos Pictures; Courtesy The 7 Virtues

Vetiver—an exotic and complex keynote in popular scents by Frédéric Malle and Maison Margiela—has endured in the fragrance world since Guerlain’s breakout 1959 debut. The perennial tropical grass native to India “is a special ingredient,” says Melissa Chelminiak, director of mission, partner, and stakeholder engagement for Aveda. Its primary source? Haiti. Since the company relies heavily on the crop and community support is one of its core tenets, Aveda has directed more than $218,000 in grants to support local communities.

Working with Heifer International and International Flavors & Fragrances, Aveda rebuilt the town of Favette’s Vetiver Depot and Community Center, which had been destroyed by Hurricane Matthew.

The project included an enhanced rain catchment system, guest rooms for visiting business travelers, and composting toilets. The building is also earthquake-, tornado- and flood-resistant, in response to increasing natural events due to climate change. Ensuring fair treatment and pay are critical basics for Aveda, which seeks to provide educational and increased business opportunities. For the 2,000-strong community of Favette and countless others, vetiver represents their primary means of income.

Madagascar Rich in natural resources yet fraught with the effects of climate change, this African island nation is the world’s largest producer of vanilla, representing an 80 percent global market share. Still, pods were trading at $20 per kilogram five years ago versus $600 per kilogram now, which is pricier than silver. Such rapid growth has tragically led to lifethreatening consequences.

“Because of vanilla theft, farmers are risking their safety,” says Hanson, whose Satori Perfume Oil contains the precious nectar. Reports have farmers sleeping in their fields with guns to protect their investment; being murdered for their yields; and stamping the pods with serial numbers.

Independent research has led Hanson to question whether she’ll continue using Madagascan vanilla at all, or work with a group like The Sustainable Vanilla Initiative, which communicates intimately with local farmers to ensure a product

that consumers can feel good about.

But the answer is not as simple as discontinuing use, argues Francesca Di Massimo of niche perfume brand i Profumi di Firenze. She buys her raw materials from trusted European companies like Firmenich or Givaudan, recipient of an award in 2013 for its work in Madagascar for the responsible sourcing of vanilla. Efforts have been made in a couple dozen Sava villages representing some 3,000 farmers to improve food supply, education, water, and revenue through actions such as building schools and latrines.

“Some natural perfumery ingredients come from places vulnerable to political, economic, and natural events,” says Di Massimo. “I personally do not think that having some perfumer brands not using vanilla anymore would be the solution— these natural ingredients and their export are the source of economic stability for many local communities.” w

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From left: A field of turmeric and the whole root in a spice market in Delhi; amla, a key Ayurvedic ingredient; and burning sandalwood.

India Vast, diverse, and ancient, India is a major player in the beauty industry, since it’s home to so many important elements.

The small yet significant sandalwood tree has been deemed vulnerable due to over-harvesting, illegal harvesting, and disease—all contributing to ethical questions raised around the practice of using its costly oil. Emerging sandalwood opportunity in Western Australia has attracted Global Beauty’s Hanson and Aveda to source Down Under in good conscience. The crop grows wild in the expansive, arid landscape and could be harvested by indigenous aboriginal Martu people, who would gain critical commerce needed to foster their selfsufficiency and cultural heritage.

In India, Aveda works with biodynamic firm Nisarga to substantially increase organic practices in growing turmeric and amla—both important ingredients rooted in Ayurvedic principles. The latter is harvested by hand by a coop of villagers who remove seeds and dry the fruit before it’s shipped for

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processing; they’ve benefited from Nisarga paying for organic certification costs and ongoing educational support.

Aveda’s Chelminiak travels to sourcing destinations to deepen partnerships, witness initiatives in action, and identify opportunities for enhancement, which has led to programs addressing clean water access. In the village of Umbari, near their turmeric source, women were spending up to six hours per day traveling by foot to find tiny amounts of usually unclean water. In response, Aveda has built wells in multiple communities.

Grant money funded the introduction of kitchen gardens to village households and schools, teaching the importance of sustainable agriculture for health and the environment and providing vegetables.

Mica, an ingredient most women have unwittingly used, also comes from India. The natural mineral provides shine in cosmetics after being mined in horrifically poor Indian states, mostly by illiterate children and families. Many organizations are battling to end this, but

the Responsible Mica Initiative (L’Oréal, Clarins, Chanel, and Coty are members) works to establish a 100-percent responsible mica supply chain by 2022.

In 2005, Aveda and The Estée Lauder Companies partnered with Nobel Peace Prize winner Kailash Satyarthi of Bachpan Bachao Andolan (Save the Childhood Movement) to create Child Friendly Villages with the goal of eradicating child labor in the mica supply chain. Anna Klein, senior vice president of corporate affairs for Estée Lauder, acknowledges there’s still lots to be done.

“We have made significant headway through the establishment of 152 Child Friendly Villages in India and look forward to sustainable progress,” she says. Chelminiak has witnessed these safe havens that provide clean water, sanitation, and education to youth. “It’s another example of a partnership formed with the ingredient as the catalyst. We realized we had the ability to protect and create change, and invite other businesses to be agents of change.”

Bountiful Buys Awareness is half the battle when it comes to responsible buying. These vetted formulas contain humanely produced ingredients from around the world.

Monastery Attar Repair Concentrate The secret ingredient in this lightweight, radianceboosting balm is rare leaf wax from South Africa, which Hewett “absolutely fell in love with. I had never smelled or seen anything like this before.” $138; monasterymade.com

Clockwise From Top Right: Courtesy Monastery; Courtesy The 7 Virtues; Courtesy Maison Francis Kurkdjian; Courtesy Aman; Eye Ubiquitous/Superstock; Courtesy Maison Francis Kurkdjian. Opposite Page, From Left: FLPA/Superstock; Stuart Freedman/Panos Pictures; Dinodia Photo/Age Fotostock

Laos

If anything smells like luxury, it’s oud—which highend perfumers like Tom Ford and Dior have been obsessed with for a decade. Middle Easterners have enjoyed its sweet, woody scent for centuries and Laos is widely recognized as producing the highest quality—and most expensive, which can cost more than gold. The scent—a precious resin that’s actually a defense mechanism secreted by aquilaria or agarwood trees—is quite fickle, since in its natural form quality varies year to year. It also can take decades for the resin to develop.

“According to me, the purest form of oud wood comes from Laos,” says perfumer Francis Kurkdjian, who has met with his supplier to define what he’s looking for from the raw material: “a fruity facet reminiscent of peach; a saffron accent; a dry, waxy side; the famous animal note; and potency.” Counterfeit oud is a problem, and fraud often happens, according to Kurkdjian, who works closely to ensure the purest fair-trade quality possible. It’s also a tedious, labor-intensive job that falls to natives willing to work hard and carefully. “The poaching of these wild plants or the tampering of the essential oil, obtained by distillation of the chips, still exists,” he says.

“When oud arrives on the markets of Bombay, Bangkok, or Singapore, it is never pure.”

Since the tree must be felled to harvest, many of Southeast Asia’s forests have been decimated, leaving the prized aphrodisiac obsolete in countries like India, Thailand, and China and leading to environmental protection for the species in Laos that resulted in cultivated trees and inoculated fungus to meet growing demand.

Kurkdjian’s oud is protected by the Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species of Wild Fauna and Flora (CITES), ensuring through regulation that the plants’ survival isn’t threatened by trade. Beyond collecting it, the Lao people also participate in protection: some villages were built around the trees to save them from smugglers.

The 7 Virtues Vetiver of Haiti Notes of tree lime, bergamot, and warm amber make for a musky, unisex mix with organic vetiver essential oil, endorsed by the Clinton Foundation. Founder Stegemann’s husband blends it alongside Rose Amber, which she describes as “not your grandmother’s rose!” $70 for 50 ml; the7virtues.com

Maison Francis Kurkdjian Oud This iconic scent started Kurkdjian on his journey with Laotian oud, which now comprises a handful of parfums that capture its sensuous, animalistic notes. $300 for 70 ml; franciskurkdjian.com

Aman Desert Dew Face Mist The luxury hotel company’s new skincare line relies heavily on ethically sourced sandalwood from India for many of its fully natural formulas, such as this one infused with homeopathic silver. $84; aman.com w

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Jo Malone Myrrh & Tonka Cologne Intense Industry sources in Namibia have seen demand rise for myrrh since it appeared on the global market around 2008. Its magic captivated Jo Malone’s fragrance director, who revealed in 2016 this decadent fragrance using the country’s hand-harvested sap. $185; jomalone.com

The 7 Virtues Patchouli of Rwanda When Stegemann visited Rwanda to see Ikirezi’s production, founder Nicholas Hitimana’s wife, Elsie, made her patchouli tea. “When we first smelled the finished scent, it smelled like the tea we drank while driving up dirt roads into the distillation area in a very, very remote place,” she says of the eau de parfum incorporating bergamot, jasmine, and cardamom. $70; the7virtues.com

Dior Oud Ispahan Along with Laos, Dior sources its oud for a range of perfumes from Indonesia and Malaysia. This one also features sandalwood and patchouli, making a floral, Oriental scent appropriate for men and women. $220; dior.com

Lina Hanson Global Baby/Sensitive Serum Kalahari melon seed oil, a heady source of omega 3 and 6 fatty acids supporting skin health, calms the skin; reduces redness, acne, and rosacea; and offers sun protection in this delicate multipurpose serum formulated without essential oils. It also infuses fragile skin around the eyes with vitamins and antioxidants in the Global Treasures balm. $50; linahanson.com

Guerlain Spiritueuse Double Vanille The golden hue of this radiant aroma traces back to Madagascar’s vigilant vanilla farmers as well as the fragrance house’s abiding love for the raw material, which has featured in many bottles over decades. $260; guerlain.com

Aveda Chakra 1 Balancing PureFume Mist Grounded Haitian vetiver from Favette mingles with patchouli and other certified organic botanicals in an Ayurvedic-inspired spritz targeting the root chakra. $30; aveda.com 62

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Aveda Invati This advanced range of thickening shampoo, conditioner, and scalp revitalizer features organic turmeric and amla sourced from Nisarga in India. $131 (for all three products); aveda.com

African Botanics Fleurs d’Afrique Intensive Recovery Oil At $250 per ounce, this potent yet lightweight oil promises to be super active, in part thanks to Namibian Kalahari melon seed oil, alongside baobab and jasmine grandiflorum handpicked at dusk. $250; africanbotanics.com

i Profumi di Firenze Vaniglia del Madagascar Creamy, sweet, and slightly green, this Italian-made eau de parfum has endured using the evermoreexpensive Madagascan vanilla from trusted sources. $110; iprofumidifirenze.com u

Images From Top: Courtesy Jo Malone; Courtesy The 7 Virtues; Geoff Kidd/Science Source; Courtesy Dior; Courtesy Lina Hanson; Courtesy Aveda; Courtesy African Botanics; Courtesy Guerlain; Courtesy i Profumi di Firenze; Courtesy Aveda

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FASHION

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Spring Fling WELCOME THE SEASON IN SPANISH-INFLUENCED STYLE WITH BOLD POPS OF COLOR AND SEXY SILHOUETTES. Photography JOHN RUSSO Styling TAYLOR JACOBSON

Her: LISOU shirt, $320; lisou.co.uk MIKOH bikini top, $112, and bottom, $90; mikoh.com JENNIFER FISHER earrings, $550; jenniferfisherjewelry.com KAREN WALKER sunglasses, $220; barneys.com CLARE V bag, $175; clarev.com

Him: SATURDAYS NYC shirt, $175, and shorts, $115; saturdaysnyc.com F.P. JOURNE watch, price upon request; fpjourne.com SAKS COLLECTION toyo hat, $128; saksfifthavenue.com GARRETT LEIGHT sunglasses, $365; garrettleight.com

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CUSHNIE dress, $1,595; cushnie.com MAXIOR gold earrings, $2,530; maxior.com

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ALC yellow dress, $695; alcltd.com ANCIENT GREEK SANDALS shoes, $245; shopbop.com FOUNDRAE ring, $3,495; foundrae.com

MATCHLESS jacket $1,440; matchlesslondon.com RAG & BONE shirt, $225; rag-bone.com OUTERKNOWN pants, $118; outerknown.com

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VALENTINO top, $3,400, skirt, $2,950, belt, $995, and earrings, $425; valentino.com

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Her: JOHANNA ORTIZ dress, $2,595; bergdorfgoodman.com VERSACE sandals, $895; versace.com Him: BRUNELLO CUCINELLI jacket, $2,695, pants, $725, sweater, $845, and shirt, $495; brunellocucinelli.com

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BRUNELLO CUCINELLI jacket $5,895; brunellocucinelli.com JAMES PERSE shirt, $80; jamesperse.com SATURDAYS NYC pants, $160; saturdaysnyc.com SAINT LAURENT shoes, $695; saintlaurent.com

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MR. P knit shirt, $240; mrporter.com RAG & BONE pants, $225; rag-bone.com

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MARIA LUCIA HOHAN dress, $600; mlh-shop.com

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ETRO dress, $5,240; etro.com

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ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA suit, $1,395; zegna.us RAG & BONE crew, $225; rag-bone.com

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Him: SCOTCH & SODA jacket, $235; scotch-soda.com RAG & BONE shirt, $95, and pants, $225; rag-bone.com Her: ALEXANDRE VAUTHIER dress, $1,860; saksfifthavenue.com

Shot on location at Four Seasons Resort The Biltmore Santa Barbara

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NOTHING MATCHES THE THRILL OF YOUR OWN RACQUET-TO-RACQUET ENCOUNTERS, ON COURT AND OFF, WITH CURRENT AND FORMER CHAMPIONS.

by Roger Cox

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Jay Reilly/Aurora Photos

TENNIS, ANYONE?

GETAWAYS

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ompleting a personal Grand Slam by attending the four

major international tennis tournaments—the Australian Open, Roland-Garros (the French Open), Wimbledon, and the US Open—is one thing. Playing the game with Grand Slam legends is another.

Loosely dubbed “tennis fantasy camps,” these multiday events combine on-court instruction with professional athletes, clinics with former world No. 1 players, pro-am tournaments, and R&R in Switzerland and Texas, the Caribbean and Hawaii. w

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THE ALPS WITH AN AUSSIE

Roy Emerson Tennis Weeks ● Gstaad Palace, Gstaad, Switzerland

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efore Roger Federer won more Grand Slam singles titles than any male player in history, he topped Pete Sampras’ record, who bested the count of Australian Roy “Emmo” Emerson—record holder for a whopping 33 years. And that’s not to mention Emmo’s success at doubles, which brings his Grand Slam count up to 28; still higher than anyone else’s total, ever.

Now you can find the 82-year-old legend in Gstaad, Switzerland, for six or seven weeks each summer hosting an international gathering of enthusiastic amateurs drawn to the red-clay courts at the historic hotel Gstaad Palace. Emmo fell for the alpine valley and turreted, family-run hotel in the 1960s, when it was the site of the Swiss Championships (now the Swiss Open), a tournament he won five times. Slim, quick, and athletic while on the tour, the 6-foot-tall player is hampered by bad knees, but nonetheless shows up for every one of the five-hour days when campers are on

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the court. Everyone benefits from his personal attention and acerbic asides: “Quite a few of you were working on how to hit a forehand with the least amount of footwork,” he’ll joke.

Campers are grouped by level (never more than four to a court) and, in addition to Emmo, work with a team of talented, often multilingual pros, usually at least one of whom competed on the tour. The camaraderie continues off court as Emmo, his wife Joy, and the teaching staff join guests nightly for four-course feasts. During a break midweek for a catered picnic amid jagged peaks at a high-alpine dairy farm, owner Ruedi Wehren often entertains on the accordion as his wife, Helen, serves their homemade cheeses. The week concludes with a farewell feast capped by a full-throated Emmo leading everyone in the Aussie standard “Waltzing Matilda.” From $4,200/person for six nights, including meals and five hours of tennis daily. royemersontennisweeks.com

THE HILL COUNTRY WITH HALL OF FAMERS

Tennis Fantasies ● John Newcombe Tennis Ranch, New Braunfels, Texas

From Top: Courtesy Tennis Fantasies; istock/nycshooter. Opposite Page: Courtesy Roy Emerson Tennis Weeks (2)

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ach October, former world No. 1 player John Newcombe gathers his former rivals and cohorts to mix with a hundred or so enthusiastic, racquet-wielding men at Newcombe’s 28-court Texas Hill Country tennis ranch for five days of coaching, competition, reminiscences, camaraderie, banter, photo ops, locker-room humor, and world-class trash talk.

The cast comes straight from the who’s who of tennis legends, including Roy “Emmo” Emerson, Rod Laver, Fred Stolle, and Owen Davidson—all inductees into the International Hall of Fame. Participants, who range in age from 20 to 80, are drafted onto teams and compete for pride and end-of-week bragging rights in singles and doubles as

their captains (74-year-old Newcombe, Stolle, Emmo, and Davidson) and a supporting cast of other world-class pros provide pointers and pep talks.

Woven into the week’s fabric are lectures and demonstrations of strokes, instructional clinics, and one-on-one coaching sessions from each of the legends. After dinner in the Billabong bar, a panel of these tennis greats reminisce about fabled matches, Davis Cup ties, hated opponents, or the current crop of players, ever exposing their indefatigable devotion to the game, and each other.

There is also a co-ed Tennis Fantasies weekend in early March with Newcombe, Emmo, Davidson, and Ross Case that is open to singles, couples, and groups. It

incorporates the same team-competition format, amenities, and on- and off-court opportunities to hang out with the legends (though without the trash talk, locker-room shenanigans, and swag).

From $4,945/person for five nights, allinclusive in October; from $1,470/person for three nights, all-inclusive in March; tennisfantasies.net w This page: In addition to 28 courts, the John Newcombe Tennis Ranch features a large pool and spa.

Opposite: Opened in 1913, the iconic Gstaad Palace offers breathtaking views of the Swiss Alps and red-clay court instruction with Australian legend Roy “Emmo” Emerson.

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THE BVI WITH CELEBRITY PROS Manuka Doctor Necker Cup ● Necker Island, British Virgin Islands

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Courtesy Images Clockwise From Top Left: Necker Cup/Take Aim Photography; Necker Cup/Visual Eye Photography (3). Opposite Page, From Top: Courtesy Wilander on Wheels (2); Sandro Di Carlo Darsa/Age Fotostock

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illionaire entrepreneur Sir Richard Branson hosts this exclusive pro-am tournament on his private island and invites a who’s who of current and former WTA and ATP pros as participants (the cast has included Björn Borg, Novak Djokovic, Rafael Nadal, Martina Navratilova, and the Bryan brothers). On Necker as much to chill as to compete, the stars mingle with guests on and off the court, and for the select group of guests who sign up to play in the tournament, the connections become even tighter.

Each pro takes up to two guests under his or her wing and plays with or coaches them in a team competition that is handicapped in a way to make it fun for every level of player. Meanwhile, those unable to secure a slot in the tournament can opt for a tennis or golf camp. Everyone gathers on the final afternoon for the Necker Cup finals and a pro exhibition; a charity dinner; and an auction followed by the spirited End of the World party headlined in years past by Kenny Chesney, Jamie Foxx, and Jimmy Buffett.

Cup participants stay in the Great House on Necker Island or on nearby Moskito Island and, tennis courts aside, have access to the beach, pool, water sports, a zip line, and massages. Tennis and golf campers spend one day on Necker enjoying the island’s amenities, and otherwise have the run of Oil Nut Bay and the boutique yacht SeaDream II anchored offshore to host overnights and meals. Proceeds from the weekend and auction fund Virgin Unite (rebuilding the BVI in the wake of recent hurricanes) and the National Tennis Foundation.

From $122,000/couple for five nights, allinclusive for the Necker Cup Experience, which includes one entry to the Necker Cup main draw, an opportunity to partner with the celebrity players and pros, and lodging on Necker or Moskito Islands; from $19,995/couple for five nights, all-inclusive for the Tennis/ Golf Camp Experience, which includes lodging aboard the SeaDream II yacht; neckercup.com

HOME-COURT ADVANTAGE

Clockwise from above left: A doubles match at the Necker Cup; Sir Richard Branson and friends; Necker Island’s beach pool; Mats Wilander’s traveling tennis clinic; Wilander as coach; serving it up; Necker Island’s beach pavilion tennis court.

Need something more flexible?

Former world No. 1 and eighttime Grand Slam champion Mats Wilander will come to you, pulling up in his 37-foot RV and setting up shop either at your local club or on a private court.

Co-piloted by Cameron Lickle, who served as a nuclear officer and also played No. 1 for the US Naval Academy, Wilander on Wheels takes to the road 40–50 times a year, delivering a choreographed repertoire of drills that reflect Wilander’s philosophy that “tennis is a running game, not a hitting game.” A speedy and dogged back-courter in his early career, Wilander emphasizes footwork, believing that learning to move pays greater dividends than focusing on technique. Be forewarned: These are not hitand-giggle sessions. A typical drill sends campers scrambling to retrieve a wide feed then racing to get back in position for yet another nearly unreachable ball. It sounds demanding yet this hardworking duo manages

to make it fun. The most basic booking includes two 60-minute clinics and packages that can be customized to add an exhibition, private lessons, and social time over lunch or dinner.

Alternatively, if you’re attending the Australian Open, Roland-Garros, or the US Open, Wilander can be available there

for one-hour sessions. Lickle has an affiliation with several other world-class pros—the feisty former world No. 1 Jimmy Connors among them—who can be booked individually. From $7,000 for two 60-minute sessions for up to eight participants; wilanderonwheels.com w

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THE CARIBBEAN WITH A GRAND SLAM TRIO Antigua Tennis Week ● Curtain Bluff, Antigua

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Clockwise from above: Antigua’s Curtain Bluff resort and Bay Beach; the 1,500-acre Wailea Resort on the Hawaiian island of Maui; the courts at Wailea Tennis Club; the full-service tennis center at Curtain Bluff.

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From Top: Courtesy Curtain Bluff (2). Opposite Page: Courtesy Topnotch Tennis Tours (2)

he Caribbean’s longest-running tennis festival takes place each spring at Curtain Bluff, the 72-room hideaway on Antigua’s southwestern coast. What began as a professional tournament in 1975 has morphed into Antigua Tennis Week, when an international crowd of 40 or so jets in to play with and learn from former World No. 1 Fred Stolle and two other amiable Aussies: Owen “Davo” Davidson and Ross Case. The trio collectively own 34 Grand Slam singles, doubles, and mixed doubles titles.

Together they offer a smorgasbord of daily tennis options—cardio tennis workouts, stroke-and-strategy clinics, pro-am round robins, men’s and women’s doubles tournaments, a Team Fred vs.

Team Davo competition, and social mixers—supplemented by pro exhibitions, with Stolle as emcee; a handicapped tiebreak shootout; and a target-tennis contest (the latter two for lavish prizes).

All of this takes place on the resort’s four hard courts, just steps from the calm, reefprotected waters of Bay Beach.

The week kicks off May 4, with a cocktail party the following evening at owner Chelle Hulford’s house high on a bluff overlooking the Caribbean, and concludes there Friday night with an awards ceremony and charity auction.

From $7,200/person, all-inclusive; curtainbluff.com

A HAWAIIAN ISLAND WITH A US CHAMP

Topnotch Fantasy Tennis Camps ● Wailea Resort, Maui, Hawaii

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pathway lined with lava-rock walls and magenta bougainvillea winds down a hillside to the 11 hard courts of the Wailea Tennis Club on Maui. Part of the multifaceted, 1,500-acre Wailea Resort, the club looks out to the ancient whaling anchorage of Lahaina Roads, the island of Lanai, and the verdant slopes of the West Maui Mountains—surroundings

not especially conducive to keeping your eye on the ball.

Over five days in November, campers spend five hours a day with three-time Grand Slam winner and television commentator Tracy Austin and a team of top ATP and WTA pros.

The team conducts clinics, chalk-talks, pro exhibitions, and pro-am games

throughout the week, and their students retreat in between to ocean view rooms at the Four Seasons Resort Maui. There’s also Wailea Beach, three saltwater pools, and a state-of-the-art spa to enjoy. From $5,995/person for four nights, including daily tennis clinics, a welcome cocktail party, a farewell dinner, and airport transfers; fantasytenniscamps.com w

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Current A-list tennis pros can be elusive, constantly competing or training. Some do, however, participate in tennis festivals and charity events that include exhibitions in intimate stadiums for a small group of spectators. Those events typically sell VIP packages, which bundle premium seating for the matches with the opportunity to participate on court and to socialize afterward at cocktail parties and galas.

The 30th Chris Evert/ Raymond James Pro-Celebrity Tennis Classic Names from the worlds of sports and entertainment—like Martina Navratilova, Seal, Jon Lovitz, and David Cook—join former world No. 1 Chris Evert for three days of festivities to raise money for at-risk families throughout Florida. The November event kicks off Friday with a pro-am and lunch with Evert ($5,000) and cocktail reception ($100) at the Boca Raton Resort & Club in Boca Raton, Florida, and continues over the weekend with pro-celebrity matches at the Delray Beach Tennis Center on Saturday and Sunday. A gala dinner dance and silent auction ($750) at the Boca Raton Resort on Saturday evening features live entertainment (rock band Blood Sweat & Tears played the event in 2018). chrisevert.org Tennis With the Stars In March, before the BNP Paribas Open in Indian Wells, California, 86

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ESPN commentator Cliff Drysdale (member of the International Tennis Hall of Fame) lures a handful of the tournament’s players and coaches to the Omni Rancho Las Palmas Resort & Spa in Rancho Mirage for an afternoon of adult and junior clinics, a King of the Court competition, and a pro exhibition capped by a VIP meet-and-greet and dinner to raise money for ACEing Autism and Desert Arc (providing opportunities for people with disabilities). From $2,500, including VIP all-access tickets and time on court with pros; tenniswithstars.com Desert Smash Also during the BNP Paribas Open in March, the star-studded Desert Smash event headlines Serena Williams alongside players from the tournament and a medley of sports and entertainment celebrities. Playing on the sunken clubhouse court at La Quinta Resort & Club, guests can sign up to join the marquee names in Tennacity: a high-energy, King of the Court contest. The rest of the day unfolds with lunch, celebrity interviews on the red carpet, a pro-celeb exhibition (with optional VIP courtside seats and cocktail lounge), a cocktail reception, and an after-party benefiting the featured pro’s chosen charity. From $3,500, including one Tennacity player spot, a pair of courtside seats, lunch for two, and a pair of VIP tickets to the after-party. desertsmash.com u

From top: Desert Smash in Palm Springs; Tennis With the Stars in Rancho Mirage; the Chris Evert/Raymond James pro-celeb classic; Serena Williams at Desert Smash.

Courtesy Images Counter-Clockwise From Bottom: Desert Smash/Shoubert David (2); The 30th Chris Evert/Raymond James Pro-Celebrity Tennis Classic/Camerawork, USA; Tennis With The Stars/Cliff Drysdale Tennis/Joey Hanf

FESTIVALS AND FUNDRAISERS

ICONIC LUXURY IN AN UNPARALLELED SETTING fourseasons.com/santabarbara tel: (805) 969-2261

ADVENTURE

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PHOTOGRAPHED AND WRITTEN BY CHRIS BRINLEE JR.

New Zealand’s greatest single-track route was a long shot in the making, but now offers some of the country’s most remote, rugged, and remarkable terrain for truly adventurous mountain bikers.

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F Dramatic, aggressive, and impassioned , much of the track was blasted out of granite.

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ifty-three miles through temperate rainforest and along alpine ridgelines tucked into the wild northwestern corner of New Zealand’s South Island, near the national parks Kahurangi, Nelson Lakes, and Paparoa, The Old Ghost Road (oldghostroad.org.nz) has been described as the country’s best and longest route for hikers and bikers alike. The story of how it came into existence dates back to the apex of New Zealand’s gold rush in the 1860s and to the 2006 opening of a rustic but well-appointed lodge on the edge of the wilderness, Rough and Tumble Bush Lodge (roughandtumble.co.nz).

Nestled at the mouth of the mighty Mokihinui River Gorge, the lodge was named after a tributary of the Mokihinui that runs in front of it. You can get there by driving about 5 ½ hours from Christchurch or flying 45 minutes from Wellington and then driving 50 minutes from Westport Airport.

When American Marion Boatwright and his Kiwi partner, Susan Cook, first made the venture, they were enamored of the area’s pristine, frontier-like nature. Sensing an opportunity, the couple purchased land on the tributary in 2005. Today, their sidetrack Bush Lodge for intrepid travelers promotes a genuine New Zealand experience.

But before the lodge was even open, a local energy company proposed damming the Mokihinui, which would inevitably force the Rough and Tumble to close indefinitely while the project was under construction. It seemed that Boatwright and Cook’s dream of luring adventurers to their gem on the West Coast would also be damned.

Then there was a visit from a stranger, says Boatwright, carrying “a lost map born of gold

lust,” which is further discussed in his book, Spirit to the Stone: Building the Old Ghost Road. The yellowed parchment depicted the land from a survey conducted in 1886.

Carefully drawn by hand was the path of an old mining road, which led from nearby Lyell (the former Western-style boomtown) north through the mountains toward the Mokihinui.

There, it linked up with a similar path in the gorge near the lodge.

Boatwright and a local bushman nicknamed “Stacky” heeded the good omen and spent six days following the marked path, which they found in serious disrepair from downed trees and impassable slips of near-vertical rock from recent earthquakes. Additional surveys were made and despite Boatwright and Stacky’s initial optimism, the task of creating The Old Ghost Road was deemed all but impossible.

The section from Lyell Saddle to the South Branch of the Mokihinui wouldn’t work; it was just too rugged.

There was also the uncertainty about the Mokihinui River dam … until the trail project got three crucial breaks: The trust established to oversee it was awarded a sizable grant from the New Zealand Cycle Trail initiative; the dam project was canned; and an alternative route from Lyell Saddle was discovered. The new route would lead high into the alpine, instead of going low into the formidable river valley as the historic survey showed.

In 2015, eight years after Boatwright and Stacky’s first survey trip, The Old Ghost Road opened. The mostly volunteer, 26,500-hour grassroots effort restored the original 11 miles and linked the road with the Mokihinui Gorge trail by creating a new track over and through the Lyell Mountains. w

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Sheer drops lead to an abyss below.

uller Adventures (bulleradventures .com), an official partner of The Old Ghost Road route, picks up bikers after breakfast at the Rough and Tumble and drives them to the trail’s southern start for a two- or three-day trek. From Lyell, pedal a slow, gradual climb through the forest to Lyell Saddle. There’s a short, quick descent from that point, then the incline increases steadily until reaching the alpine.

The second section is dramatic, aggressive, and impassioned—much of the track was blasted out of granite; sheer drops lead to an abyss below.

The path moves in and out of the mountainside and leads to the scenic Ghost Lake Hut before continuing through a hand-constructed section of switchbacks that give way to the Skyline Ridge and eventually the Skyline Steps, the most breathtaking and technical section that concludes the crux of the ride and the trail’s construction. It is all downhill from there: flowy, fast, and unquestionably fun. Riding there is total bliss; it seems to go on for hours, but nevertheless, it is over too soon.

The final leg begins with a steady, earnest climb through blasted rock up to another pass and is followed by hours of flowy downhill road through the jungle; subsequent smooth, fast flats along the river; and slow clambers over track carved from the cliffside along the Mokihinui Gorge. A zippy, rolling jaunt through the trees leads right back to the Rough and Tumble.

Most of the track is rated Grade 4/ advanced, meaning that riders should expect long, steep climbs; narrow winding trails (just 1–2 feet wide in places); loose surfaces in sections; and obstacles that must be ridden over or avoided. Additionally, riders must be comfortable with traveling through

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Gear Up

All images courtesy of the manufacturers

Specialized set out to achieve the ultimate goal: create the most radically designed alloy trail bike ever made. Their result is the Men’s Stumpjumper ST Comp Alloy 29. Its alloy frame provides maximum stiffness, allowing an effective transfer of power when charging uphill—while feet and hands stay in sync sending the gnar. Its 29-inch wheels roll over everything; Fox Float shocks take the hit when the trail drops. $3,020; specialized.com A lightweight, minimalist gear kit is crucial while bike-packing single track because every ounce counts when you are pedaling uphill or carrying your bike over rough terrain.

A sleeping bag is often the heaviest and bulkiest item. But not the Big Agnes Flume UL 30°.

The technical, ultralight (1-pound, 6-ounce) mummy bag provides adequate insulation achieved with 850-fill hydrophobic DownTek down, which provides significant loft, even in damp conditions.

From $450; bigagnes.com

The Italian-made Velocio Recon Vest combines technical features, including a Pertex Quantum ultralight windproof front shell and Polartec High Loft for a superb active insulation warmth-toweight ratio, with styling that doesn’t scream, “I just stepped off my bike.”

From $260; velocio.cc

Not ready to step into clipless pedals? The lightweight, multimountain-sport Salewa Multi Track shoe features a specially designed tread pattern that makes it compatible with mountain bike flat pedals. To sweeten the sole, Salewa partnered with Michelin on a suregrip compound, which maximizes traction when hiking your bike. From $170; salewa.com

When riding for days at a time and uphill for hours on end, cyclists cherish every breeze. With its extreme ventilation, the POC Octal X helmet allows more airflow without sacrificing impact protection for your skull, and it’s light enough for the rider to forget it’s there. $250; pocsports.com

Riding single track guarantees grimy hands and faces. Ursa Major Essential Face Wipes are individually wrapped bamboo fresheners that provide the ultimate on-the-go cleanse. They are 100-percent naturally derived and infused with a sample of Ursa Major’s four-in-one Essential Face Tonic formula, which cleans, exfoliates, soothes, and hydrates without stripping moisture from the skin. $24; ursamajorvt.com

The stylish, highperformance Revo Harness Sunglasses have a frame design that offers protection during high-output endeavors without compromising style. Polarized lenses feature Revo’s proprietary Light Management System, which reduces the amount of blue light that hits the eye while providing the wearer with greater color contrast. A permanent hydrophobic coating helps the sunglasses resist sweat and moisture buildup when you’re pushing hard. In short, they’re just as great to wear on the trail as they are around town. $190; revo.com

Carrying a significant amount of weight in a backpack while riding uphill can lead to serious backache. The key to alleviating that stress and enabling maximum readiness when it’s time to send it is to transfer some gear weight to your bicycle. Compatible with full-suspension trail bikes and dropper seat posts, the nearly 2-gallon, water-resistant Revelate Designs Vole seat bag will effectively eliminate some of that overnight kit weight so you can crush hard. $160; revelatedesigns.com w

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sections with steep, exposed edges. Due to the length of the trail and the amount of elevation gained throughout, riders should be fit enough to travel for periods of up to eight hours per day.

It is recommended that only riders comfortable meeting the aforementioned criteria attempt The Old Ghost Road. But with good fitness and a solid understanding of their own skill level and abilities, novices can still ride, choosing to walk their bikes through the most difficult sections (specifically the area around Rocky Tor and from the Ghost Lake Hut to the Skyline Steps).

The majority of the riding is graded intermediate and is immensely enjoyable for people with similarly measured skill.

Boatwright himself built five huts for overnight stays on The Old Ghost Road. They have kitchens with running

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water, gas stoves, cooking equipment, and crockery; an open communal area; small group bunkrooms; and porches characterized by fantastic views.

Unlike the mountain huts of the European Alps, these require that users carry and prepare their own food. Or Buller Adventures can pack gourmet meals or arrange for a chef to be flown in via helicopter. In addition to the standard bunkrooms, some of the locations feature private summer sleepouts that can be booked for couples, families, or small groups.

An abbreviated route can avoid long climbs but keep the thrill of massive downhill combined with a scenic flight.

Buller Adventures also offers heli-biking packages. At a landing zone just outside the Rough and Tumble, bikes are loaded into a specially designed rack attached to

a long line. From there, riders and their equipment are flown over the stunning Lyell Range and dropped off at the track’s highest point near the Ghost Lake Hut. Take a 37-mile ride north and end up at the Rough and Tumble or opt for a 19mile, predominantly downhill ride south, finishing in Lyell. Either option can be completed in a high-intensity, turnkey day.

October until mid-May (that’s late spring, all of summer, and early autumn in the Southern Hemisphere) is the most popular time of the year to ride, but if the weather is favorable, The Old Ghost Road can be ridden any time of year, including in the temperate winter climate. If you’re planning a trip in advance, book in November for its warm days and cool nights—and because it is in season for nearby multiday rides such as the Queen Charlotte Track.

The Queen Charlotte Track Located in Marlborough Sounds, a 2 1/2-hour drive northeast from Lyell, the 43.5-mile Queen Charlotte Track (qctrack.co.nz) passes countless coastal bights, beautifully indistinct lines between turquoise seas and sea green summits. The two- to three-day mission begins from the charming village of Picton. Following a 45-minute ferry ride operated by the Cougar Line (cougarline.co.nz), debark at Meretoto/Ship Cove, where Captain James Cook anchored the HMS Endeavour to resupply in 1770. As bikers begin the ride, the ferry continues, carrying their bags to The Portage (theportage.co.nz), where the hotel’s seaside rooms, a secluded swimming beach, and an ambrosial rack of lamb are the reward for a day’s ride. The grade is mostly intermediate, which translates to long, gentle climbs followed by exhilarating, flowy downhill sections—and many joyful hoots. u

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The

Set

Polo, the sport of kings and maharajahs, has evolved into more than just ponies and a long wooden mallet.

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t the top level, it costs millions of dollars a year to maintain a string of polo “ponies” (that’s polo speak for thoroughbred horses). Chairman of the International Beach Polo Association Alex Webbe likes to recount an interview that legendary radio announcer Frank Graham conducted with the patron saint of American polo, Tommy Hitchcock Sr. “They tell us the legs go first in most games,” Graham said. “What goes first in polo?”

“The money,” answered Hitchcock.

The global polo season follows an ironclad calendar. The world’s best players come to England in early May, then move to France and Spain in August before returning to Argentina in September and continuing to the United States (Palm Beach, Florida, and Aspen, Colorado) or to St. Moritz, Switzerland, in January.

Like many expensive sports—horse racing, yachting, auto racing—sponsors determine the level at which a match can be played. Sunday afternoon games in nearly every club in the world play out casually, with spectators tailgating on picnic blankets and children running around the lawn.

An atypical match doesn’t even require horses. Now there’s SUP polo, canoe polo, bicycle polo, golf-cart polo, Segway polo, even hobbyhorse polo (big in Germany and Scandinavia). w

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Robert Harding Picture Library/National Geographic Image Collection. Opposite Page From Top Left: Courtesy Badrutt’s Palace; Michele Sandberg/Getty Images; Courtesy International Canoe Federation/Balint Vekassy

by Irene Rawlings

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Lawn and Arena Polo High-dollar polo in England is played at two major clubs—Cowdray Park Polo Club and the Guards Polo Club (founded in 1955; Prince Philip is president) at Windsor Great Park. The Cartier Queen’s Cup, or “the jewel in the polo calendar,” attracts players from the sport’s highest echelons. Traditionally Her Majesty, the Queen, presents the trophy.

Across the pond, the International Polo Club Palm Beach in Florida hosts the most prestigious American games, including the US Open Polo Championship in April. In California, the Santa Barbara Polo & Racquet Club and Pacific Palisades’ Will Rogers Polo Club (Walt Disney, Clark Gable, and Spencer Tracy played here) are known for social and philanthropic pursuits like throwing fun, for-charity events. Arena polo, once called blue-collar polo, is a high-energy, fast-paced version of the sport played, as the name implies, in indoor or outdoor arenas. uspolo.org Clockwise from above: Philanthropic polo in Santa Barbara; England’s royal Guards Polo; playing on Miami Beach. Opposite, from top: Snowy St. Moritz; on camels in Dubai; rodeo style at Poway, California.

Beach Polo These pop-up events started in Dubai, UAE, in 2004, and have migrated to Miami Beach, England, and Australia. Croatia held its first beach polo event in 2016. The game is played with a large inflatable ball on an area that’s smaller than grass polo (only 100-by-50 yards), making the event spectator-friendly. If the sand is dry and deep and the horses are getting tired, the beach is watered and steamrollered after every chukker. The informality of the venue inspires brilliant after-parties—for which Spain’s party-hard island of Ibiza is especially famous.

Where to Go: Ibiza (ibizapoloclub.es); Miami Beach (miamipolocup.com); Cable Beach, Western Australia (cablebeachpolo.com).

The Scene: Twentysomethings in Johanna Ortiz bikinis (Ibiza); stylish blondes in Lilly Pulitzer (Miami Beach); anything goes (but the ’50s-look is trending) at Australia’s Cable Beach.

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Where to Go: International Polo Club Palm Beach (ipc.coth.com); Guards Polo Club, Windsor (guardspoloclub.com); Santa Barbara Polo & Racquet Club (sbpolo.com).

The Scene: Private bankers. Hollywood royalty alongside English royalty.

Insider Tip: For the Queen’s Cup, reserve tickets in the clubhouse grandstand or, for the best viewing, snag an invitation from a member for field-side parking.

Snow Polo The frozen, snow-covered lake in the middle of Switzerland’s postcard-perfect St. Moritz becomes a World Cup polo field in January. The competition draws big-name players like champion and Ralph Lauren model Ignacio “Nacho” Figueras, whose ponies kick up clouds of snow chasing a ball that looks like a bright red grapefruit.

The airport is crowded with private jets and it is impossible to get a hotel as more than 12,000 spectators arrive for three days of polo and parties. Admission is free but you can opt for tickets in the VIP area to watch the game while having a leisurely lunch prepared by Badrutt’s Palace Hotel and washed down with Perrier-Jouët Champagne.

Where to Go: St. Moritz, Switzerland; Aspen, Colorado; Cortina, Italy; MontTremblant, Québec, Canada; Tianjin, China.

From Top: Andrea Gjestvang/Panos Pictures; Courtesy Dubai Polo & Equestrian Club; Courtesy Poway Polo Club. Opposite Page, From Top: Reed Saxon/Associated Press; MJ Kim/Getty Images; Michele Sandberg/Getty Images

The Scene: In St. Moritz, sable-swathed Russians accompanied by dogs in matching finery. Swedish royals. The Davos crowd.

Camel Polo The British created an Imperial Camel Corps during World War I, and the Border Security Force of India used camels until 2012 (when they were replaced by ATVs). Throughout the 20th century, camel polo was played by British and Indian officers and even maharajas.

At the Dubai Polo and Equestrian Club, camels are trained specifically for polo.

Each has a double saddle—for both the professional rider sitting upfront to steer and for the passenger, who holds the mallet and hits a football-sized ball. Rules are similar to horseback polo, but the variation always includes a few surprises when camels turn abruptly, sit down, or simply wander off. Afterward, there’s a picnic or high tea on the grass.

Where to Go: Dubai Polo and Equestrian Club, Dubai (poloclubdubai .com); Polo Safaris in Murchison Falls National Park, Uganda (polosafaris .com); Umaid Lake Palace, Rajasthan, India (umaidlakepalace.com); Dera Amer, Jaipur, India (deraamer.com); Mongolian Camel Festival, annually in March (traveltonomads.com).

The Scene: Oil-wealthy locals.

Adventure-seeking globetrotters.

Nomadic herders riding Bactrian camels (Mongolia).

What to Wear: Snug white trousers and a polo shirt. Tall leather boots with low heels.

What to Wear: Head-to-toe fur. KJUS ski jackets paired with pom-pom beanies.

Sisley Sunleÿa SPF 50—more expensive than some of the best Champagnes at $300/1.8 oz.

Cowboy Polo The game originated in 1952 as Palmetto Polo in Florida, but wranglers in the West say there have always been friendly competitions between neighboring ranches. Two teams of five players, paired with their workhorses (quarter horses who rein well). The ball is big and inflatable; the field of play is a rodeo arena. “You don’t need a string of polo ponies,” says Billy Sheldon of Poway Polo Club in California, “just a strong, self-assured horse, a mallet, and the ability to ride.” Don King Days over Labor Day Weekend is a popular event at Wyoming’s Big Horn Polo Club—which plays grass polo during the summer. Named for the world-renowned saddle maker, the event includes all the iconic Western events—bronc riding, steer roping, horseshoeing competitions, and cowboy polo. Food trucks have replaced chuck wagons, but the authentic, unhurried, and courtly atmosphere of the Old West remains.

Where to Go: Big Horn Polo Club, Sheridan, Wyoming (thebighornpoloclub.com); Eatons’ Ranch, Wolf, Wyoming (eatonsranch.com); Calgary Polo Club, Calgary, Canada (calgarypoloclub.com); Clint Mortenson’s Ranch, Santa Fe, New Mexico (silverandsaddles.com).

The Scene: Narrow-hipped cowboys. Country veterinarians, ranch owners, and local law enforcement.

What to Wear: Boot-cut jeans, denim or snap-button western shirts, and well-worn cowboy boots. For women, classic Levi’s 501s and a Stetson. w

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Fast, wet, and chaotic, SUP polo has been described as a cross between water polo, lacrosse, and a bumper-car demolition derby.

The game was first played at a small club on Switzerland’s Lake Geneva in 2014 where three players on a side played with homemade paddles and a large, inflatable ball inside an inflatable field. Starboard, one of the biggest standup paddleboard companies, quickly recognized the potential and started to produce the specialized paddles and inflatable, double-ended boards. The rules are simple: You must be standing on your board to score and you must not use your paddle as a weapon.

The rules on contact are a little hazy and players are frequently knocked into the water.

Where to Go: San Diego SUP Rentals (sandiegosuprentals.com); Burlington, Vermont (wndnwvs.com); Blue Chip SUPer Club, Surrey, England (windsurfer.co.uk).

The Scene: Players in shorts or wetsuits.

Spectators in Saturday-afternoon casual.

What to Wear: Board shorts, Hawaiian prints, vintage UGGs.

Canoe Polo Played by two teams of five players in short fiberglass kayaks. The full-contact game is akin to rugby in the water.

Opposing players kayak-tackle (ram) to capsize their opponents. They shove and body check to steal the ball. Fast breaks are especially thrilling. The nets—at either end of the pool—look like soccer goals on stilts. Like rugby, the game originated in England in the late 19th century, and it is now played from Milan to Adelaide, Australia, to Miyoshi, Japan.

The 2019 Pan American Canoe Polo Championships will be held in August in Boston. canoeicf.com/icf Where to Go: New England Canoe Polo, Boston (bostonkayakpolo.com); New York Kayak Polo (nykayakpolo.org); Banook Canoe Club, Nova Scotia, Canada (banookcanoeclub.com); Paddle NSW, Sydney, Australia (paddlensw.org.au) The Scene: Players in helmets, face guards, and body-armor life jackets.

What to Wear: Anything goes. Expect to get wet.

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From Top: Martin Meissner/AP Images; Courtesy International Canoe Federation/Balint Vekassy. Opposite Page: Courtesy Costa Careyes (3)

SUP Polo

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or the uninitiated, polo may seem like hockey on horseback, but there’s a lot more finesse and grace involved, not to mention an adrenaline surge. Amateur equestrians who want to pick up a mallet and spend an afternoon with a majestic animal in a beautiful setting should put on a pair of jeans (polo whites not required) and visit these three resorts, where some of the best polo instructors in the world will have you saddled-up and trotting across the field in no time.

Careyes, Mexico

Costa Careyes, located in the state of Jalisco on the Pacific coast between Manzanillo and Puerto Vallarta, is an under-the-radar destination known for its exclusive hillside villa culture with pedigree architecture (think modern palapas), deserted beaches, and a turtle sanctuary. Developed in the 1970s by Gian Franco Brignone, Careyes is still familyrun and -operated and has the feel of a Mediterranean village with a brand of rustic luxury that plays well on the rugged coast and among the jungle environs.

It’s also the place to find the best polo in Mexico. Gian Franco’s son Giorgio installed Bermuda grass fields in the 1990s in the jungle, creating a lush spot with stables and a clubhouse that are as architecturally chic as the villas (shown left). The Costa Careyes Polo Club regularly brings in an international group of top-notch masters to teach clinics; hosts the International Federation of Polo playoffs annually; and attracts players from Portugal, France, Italy, and Argentina for the Copa de Careyes tournament.

Guests can take polo classes, stick and ball lessons, use the fields for their own games, or spectate at one of several annual tournaments and exhibitions. careyes.com w Spring 2019 101

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Courtesy Dorchester Collection (4). Opposite Page: Courtesy Casa De Campo (3)

Coworth Park, England

Outside London, this regal, 18th-century country estate in Ascot is part of the Dorchester Collection of hotels. Between Michelin-star dining and a day at the spa, guests can take a quick buggy ride to the Guards Polo Club—one of the world’s most exclusive polo clubs and training grounds of which Prince Philip is president.

Coworth is also the only resort in the United Kingdom with its own polo school.

Ebe Sievwright, head coach at the Guards Polo Academy, is a former professional player, who fell in love with the sport as a child watching his father play the game.

Sievwright is as passionate about teaching as he is about playing. The practice field features a gazebo and plenty of room for stick and ball lessons, which means Sievwright will teach you how to ride a horse and swing a mallet at the same time. “It’s not as complicated as it looks,” he says. “I promise, with a few technical pointers, most people are trotting, if not cantering, within a lesson or two.” dorchestercollection.com

Casa de Campo, Dominican Republic

Fernando Arata is an Argentine lawyer by trade and a polo player at heart. His polo devotion runs in the family—his wife Martina Monteverde hosts the ESPN Polo Show, where he sometimes appears alongside her as a commentator. When given the opportunity to become the polo and equestrian director at Casa de Campo, he closed his law office in Argentina and accepted the challenge to transform the fields and the polo program at Casa de Campo into a world-class polo destination.

Arata started by hiring agricultural engineer Ajeandro Barro—known as the maestro of polo fields—to upgrade the fields to a professional level. Situated within the resort’s 7,000-acre property that boasts its own airport and a yacht basin, the fields offer ocean views with soothing Caribbean breezes. And when the resort hosted the Polo Challenge in 2016, it was one of the biggest tournaments of the year, putting the Dominican Republic on the polo map alongside places like England, Sotogrande, and West Palm Beach.

“People were not prepared for what happened here,” Arata recalls. “We had the best polo players from all over the world right here in our garden.” He’s referring to elite polo players like Juan Martin Nero, David Stirling, and Adolfo Cambiaso.

Guests interested in polo get the elite treatment as well. With three 300-yard polo fields, a practice field, and plenty of ponies on the property to choose from, guests can sign up for classes with Arata and more experienced players can play chukkas with friends. January through May is the prime time to visit, especially if you’ve never been on a horse before. For some family fun, sign up for Donkey Polo on Dominican burros for a cowboy good time. casadecampo.com.do u

—Stacie Stukin

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Churchill Downs in Louisville, Kentucky

Youthful Attraction Horse racing is searching for a new breed of spectator. Glitzy and glamorous, the incredibly competitive Breeders’ Cup is in the lead, attracting a younger crowd willing to pay for a luxurious, experience-driven, days-long event.

by Alexandra Cheney

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Courtesy Breeders’ Cup (2)

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the Cup’s annual pre-gala. Featuring chefs representing 15 countries, each of whom prepares a different recipe inspired by a competing horse’s country of origin, guests sample pork terrine with foie gras from Top Chef–alum Hugh Acheson or local rabbit and black truffle dumplings from German chef Jackson Rouse. They can also drink craft cocktails among the museum’s collection of works by Roy Lichtenstein, Pablo Picasso, and Constantin Brancusi.

“We’re 50 percent female and we skew toward a younger demographic,” says Fravel, “one that’s interested in

While tradition provides a sense of place, the on-site race day events make the Breeders’ Cup a can’t-miss experience.

fashion, food, and culture, but may not feel an automatic draw to playing the ponies.” While the ancillary happenings create a sense of place, the on-site race day events make the cup a can’t-miss experience.

The weekend features a race every 30 to 40 minutes, and Fravel has filled the remaining time with a variety of activities for the 112,675 people in attendance. In the Mansion, Churchill Downs’ most exclusive viewing and seating area (complete with Italian marble flooring and a backlit onyx bar), chef Morimoto carves a nearly 250-pound, freshly shipped tuna into flawless sashimi.

Near the paddock, fashionably dressed men and women contend for the Longines Prize for Elegance, a competition where the most stylish of each sex win a timepiece.

For those ensconced in the races themselves, Fravel encourages downloading the Breeders’ Cup mobile app. While some favor scrawling on the cup’s official program, the app livestreams all the championship races and posts the official results in time with crowd announcements.

As thoroughbred racing’s year-end competition, the 36-year-old Breeders’

Courtesy Breeders’ Cup. Opposite Page, Clockwise From Top Left: iStock; Courtesy Breeders’ Cup (4)

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lutes of Champagne and impeccably garnished mint juleps rise in unison as customsuited men and women in fascinators applaud the first call of the beagle. It’s race day at the Breeders’ Cup World Championships in Louisville, Kentucky. No longer are the grandstands at Churchill Downs filled exclusively with the usual suspects; the daily racetrack crowd and legacy horse racing families still attend the high-stakes two-day event, but they’re joined by a cadre of bourbon enthusiasts, fans of Chef Masaharu Morimoto, and young people.

Craig Fravel, the president and CEO of the Breeders’ Cup, is successfully transforming his “$30 million extravaganza into an amazing customer experience,” complete with community events, concerts, and curated packages. “In order to engage younger people, we do a lot that’s location-orientated. We want to be complementary to the style and culture of where we are,” he says.

In Louisville, that means a bourbon tasting at Pendennis Club, the heavily wooded private social club, as well as a hosted evening at the Speed Art Museum for Taste of the World,

Clockwise from opposite: The legendary Kentucky Derby; the traditional mint julip; the iconic Chandelier room at Santa Anita Park; the requisite fascinator hat; a new generation of followers; Chef Masaharu Morimoto preparing sashimi at the exclusive Mansion at Churchill Downs.

Cup is unique in that it rotates among a series of tracks each year. In November, it will revisit Santa Anita Park, a race track northeast of Los Angeles, for a record 10th time (providing the track reopens after investigations related to horse injuries). The facility completed a three-year, $40 million renovation in 2015, including the 1934 Gordon Kaufmann–designed structures, the Chandelier Room, and an invite-only speakeasy. The Stronach Group, which owns many tracks across America, plans to infuse the facility with an additional $5 million worth of improvements, including restaurant renovations and additional box seating at the finish line.

“This is not just two days of racing. It’s a weeklong list of events, and the fact that Santa Anita keeps investing is a really important part of the selection process for us,” Fravel says.

Fravel was quick to note that although the cup remains “first and foremost a championship event, the selection of the tracks allows us to engage with the community and the horse industry in separate but complementary ways.” The Breeders’ Cup World Championships is set to take place November 1–2 in LA; tickets are on sale now. breederscup.com w

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Melbourne Cup Carnival Melbourne, Australia November 2–9, 2019

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Carreras de Caballos de Sanlúcar Sanlúcar de Barrameda, Spain

Prix de l’Arc de Triomphe Paris October 6, 2019

rom the snowy peaks of St. Moritz to the sun-drenched coast of Florida, horse racing has galloped into a global spectacle.

Events like White Turf and the Pegasus World Cup, respectively, aided in transforming the 2019 horse racing calendar into one of social and musical significance. Substantial partnerships with BMW and Longines (the official timekeeper of many horse races) solidified White Turf into an amateur proving ground, complete with a snowglobe setting, while Pegasus created a series of full-fledged performances by Snoop Dogg and Mark Ronson prior to the first bugle call. Here, discover some other can’t-miss races turned cultural affairs.

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A staple on the horse racing calendar, the Dubai World Cup has regained its pole position as the richest horse race in the world with a $7.2 million prize courtesy of Pegasus’ new format. Legendary, thanks to Sheikh Mohammed’s call in 1997 to have UAE Air Force helicopters hover over the track to dry it out after pouring rain canceled the race, Meydan Racecourse now features an on-site luxury hotel in addition to its Group 1 status. dubaiworldcup.com

August 9–11 and August 25–27, 2019 Held on Sanlúcar de Barrameda’s pebble-strewn sandy beaches, where the Guadalquivir River meets the Gulf of Cádiz, these sanctioned horse races have run continuously since 1845. The Panama hat and starched-cotton-shirt crowd mixes with Speedo-wearing sunbathers. Boats anchor just offshore. It’s a rather casual affair, as is much of Andalusia. Don’t be fooled, however; these races form part of a national derby circuit and feature thoroughbred ponies and professional jockeys in silks. carrerassanlucar.es

A week’s worth of horse races compete against Myer Fashions on the Field, Australia’s largest outdoor fashion event, complete with industry awards for designers and milliners at the Melbourne Cup Carnival. Now folded within a series of branded days (Lexus Melbourne Cup Day; Seppelt Wines Stakes Day), the races gained a foothold in 1861 when racegoers opted for picnic parties with a side of ponies. With $7.3 million in total prize money, it’s the Southern Hemisphere’s top race. flemington.com.au

The “Arc”—a 1-mile race for 3-year-olds and above with a purse of almost $6 million—returned in late 2018 to the leafy ParisLongchamp Racecourse after a $145 million overhaul courtesy of French architect Dominique Perrault. Outfitted with solar panels and geothermal energy conductors, the grandstands now grant views both east and west, from the racecourse and the Eiffel Tower to the River Seine.

Three dining areas facilitate a fine dining experience or a garden party–themed eatery throughout the racecourse, which dates back to 1857. parislongchamp.com u

Replace credits with this: Tom Dulat/Getty Images. Opposite Page, Clockwise From Top: Courtesy Melbourne Cup; Courtesy Carreras de Caballos de Sanlúcar; Lo Chun Kit/Getty Images

OFF to the RACES

Dubai World Cup Dubai, UAE March 30, 2019

Counterclockwise from far left: The famous site of the Dubai World Cup; winning at the ParisLongchamp Racecourse; sanctioned horse races in Spain have been run on the beach since 1845; the Melbourne Cup Carnival is a weeklong horse-racing event.

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SPORTS TRAVEL

High, swooping kicks and low, crouched positions are taught at UXUA Casa Hotel’s on-site Capoeira school. Opposite, clockwise from top right: the resort’s beach lounge; inside one of the villas; UXUA’s Casa Nozinho.

The Sport of Capoeira—Brazil’s dance-like martial art—is the active traveler’s way to experience Bahia’s Afro-Brazilian culture.

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Clockwise From Top Left: RobertGennaro/iStock; Courtesy UXUA Casa Hotel & Spa (3).

Opposite: Courtesy UXUA Casa Hotel & Spa

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s two young men prepare to fight, a semicircle of onlookers quickly gathers around them. One opponent is more imposingly built than the other, but this match won’t be won based on who can throw the strongest punch. Those observing, moreover, are not passive participants: They drum, clap and sing, or pluck a single-string instrument called a berimbau. As the music reaches a fever pitch, the battle begins: One of the men explodes into a backflip, the other launches into several powerful turns of a cartwheel.

This is capoeira, an Afro-Brazilian martial art. The two men facing off are students of Diney Lima, leader of the Capoeira Sul da Bahia academy in Trancoso, Brazil—the region where the practice originated. Though its beginnings are debated, capoeira is thought to have started in the 16th century as a way for slaves, brought from Africa to Brazil by Portuguese colonizers, to practice a combat sport by disguising it as a dance. This mélange of athleticism and movement is on full display each week during Lima’s capoeira sessions, called rodas, as his students jump, flip, and contort their bodies to the time of the berimbau.

Mixed in with Lima’s regular students are often some less experienced ones: guests of UXUA Casa Hotel & Spa. The resort, founded by Wilbert Das, former creative director of Diesel, has sponsored Lima’s capoeira school for the past decade, allowing Lima’s students to train for free. As part of this partnership, Das encourages his guests to observe one of the school’s spectacular rodas—made all the more breathtaking during a full moon, when they take place on the beach—in action. The more adventurous will even participate. Most of those brave enough to do so, however, are not complete novices; they have availed themselves of one of UXUA’s most popular offerings: private capoeira classes with Lima, conducted in the resort’s on-site studio.

Lima teaches in a style of capoeira called Regional, known for its showy acrobatics, but first-timers mercifully start with the basics. Students begin with the sport’s most fundamental movement, the ginga, performed by lunging one leg backward, and then the next, repeatedly. The idea, Lima explains, is to distract your opponent by staying in constant motion. Once mastered, students next learn a variety of attacks and defensive postures involving high, swooping kicks and low, crouched w

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JOGO HOME

Trancoso

Where to find capoeira training studios in the United States.

Capoeira Brasil practices in the contemporânea (contemporary) style of the sport, which blends elements of both Regional and Angola capoeira. One of the best-known branches of the academy is based in Los Angeles. Its founder, Mestre Boneco, is known for training actors, including the cast of Ocean’s 12, in the art of capoeira for roles in action movies. capoeirabrasil.com

New York/New Jersey

Capoeira Angola Center practices in the Angola capoeira style, which places a heavy emphasis on the sport’s African and spiritual roots. The center’s founder, Mestre João Grande, has more than 50 years of experience, and is widely viewed as the leader of the Angola capoeira community in the United States. The Center holds classes in multiple locations, including Harlem, NoHo, and Jersey City. joaogrande.org

San Francisco

ABADÁ-Capoeira is one of the largest capoeira associations in the world. Mestra Márcia Cigarra, the first woman to reach the level of mestra in the academy, started a well-respected branch in San Francisco that teaches a blend of the Regional and Angola styles.

The school also offers classes in capoeira’s traditional musical instruments, such as the stringed birambau and the atabaque hand drum. abada.org 112 Spring 2019

positions. After an hour’s worth of lunging, kicking, and crouching, newbies quickly come to understand the spa treatments included in UXUA’s capoeira packages (from $1,765) are less of a perk than a necessity—the sport works muscles even the biggest boot-camp devotee will find they have neglected.

At first blush, UXUA seems an odd choice of accommodation to engage in such rigorous exercise. The most pressing decision facing its guests could well be whether to pass the day lounging inside their rustic-modern casa, sustainably designed and built by Das with the help of local artisans, or on a plush sunken sofa at the UXUA Praia Bar, situated on one of Bahia’s many famed white sand beaches. But beautiful beaches abound in Brazil. What convinces many of the resort’s guests to make the trek to Trancoso—a list including high-profile visitors like Anderson Cooper, who recently bought a home in town, and Beyoncé, who featured the village in her music video “Blue”—are the opportunities to become immersed in the region’s Afro-Brazilian culture.

Trancoso appears much as it did when founded almost 500 years ago; colorful, single-story structures dot the quadrado, or central square. A small 16th-century church, built in part from whalebone and coral, stands as the focal point on a bluff overlooking the ocean. With this remarkably well-preserved colonial setting as a backdrop, travelers can dance samba and sample moqueca directly from the region that birthed them. But few of Trancoso’s offerings provide as exhaustive (and exhausting) a way to experience Bahia’s particular blend of African and Brazilian traditions than a week’s worth of capoeira classes with Lima—mastering the martial art’s origin story is as integral to its practice as its impressive kicks and handstands.

After a roda at the academy has endured for almost an hour, Lima will raise both hands in the air, signaling a sudden end to the action. Class, however, won’t be over yet. Lima’s students instinctively take a seat on the floor as their instructor begins to recount elements of the sport’s history and philosophy. Lima’s trainees listen intently; they’ll need to internalize much of this knowledge if they hope to advance to the next belt level. Guests of UXUA, sprinkled in among Lima’s regulars, will nod along as well.

Their legs may be sore, chests still heaving from effort, but they’ll repeat the lesson the next day nonetheless—followed by a massage and maybe a refreshing caipirinha or two on the beach. u

Global Pics/iStock

Los Angeles

A great place to land.

Ocean Reef is more than a club, it’s family; a family that holds tradition, privacy and belonging at its core.

Ocean Reef Club is home to countless amenities including a private airport with a 4,400 ft. runway, 175-slip marina, two 18-hole golf courses, tennis facilities, K-8 school and state-of-the-art medical center to name a few. Most importantly, Ocean Reef is about its Members and their core belief in family and tradition.

There are only two ways to experience Ocean Reef Club’s Unique Way of Life – as a guest of a member or through the pages of Living magazine. Visit OceanReefClubMagazine.com or call 305.367.5921 to request your complimentary copy.

SPORTS TRAVEL

Changing Courses

Way beyond the Monterey Peninsula and the sand hills of North Carolina, top designers have carved out exceptional, out-of-the-way greens that are becoming America’s new bucket list–worthy links.

Hole 5 at Ozarks National in Missouri

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Courtesy Big Cedar Lodge

by Shaun Tolson

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The hidden nature of BIG CEDAR LODGE (bigcedar.com) has an approaching expiration date. November marked the opening of Ozarks National, Big Cedar’s second 18-hole, championship-caliber course and the first designed by Coore & Crenshaw in the state of Missouri. Anticipated for 2019 is the grand opening of Payne’s Valley, the first public course designed

by Tiger Woods. Its location in the heart of the Ozarks in southern Missouri notwithstanding, the resort’s reputation as an exemplary golfing destination will soon match the already exceptional quality of its courses.

Big Cedar’s other 18-hole course, the Tom Fazio–designed Buffalo Ridge Springs, and its two par-3 courses—Top of the Rock (designed by Jack Nicklaus) and Mountain Top (designed by Gary Player)—boldly showcase dramatic natural elements like sunken caves and exposed rock formations. But Ozarks National, which runs along the top of several ridges, is distinct for highlighting its surroundings in an understated way.

“It’s extremely peaceful out there,” says Johnny Morris, the founder of both Big Cedar Lodge and Bass Pro Shops. “It’s just old farmland. If you had been there 200 years ago, I would imagine that it would have looked very similar.”

Like all other Coore & Crenshaw designs, the course’s layout is married to the natural topography of the land.

Some holes are visually intimidating and require shots to be hit over expansivelooking hazards, but co-designer Bill Coore reassures prospective players that the shots look much harder (and the hazards appear much larger) than they are. “There’s nothing more thrilling than to hit your ball and see it fly over something,” he says. “That’s a thrill that’s not forgotten.”

By the end of 2019, Big Cedar Lodge will boast 77 holes, all of which reinforce Morris’ mission statement: to encourage people to explore and enjoy the surrounding natural world as he did growing up. “I think of golf like fishing,” he says. “It’s an excuse to get outside and an opportunity to spend time with people you care about.”

Top Accommodations: Private log cabins, from $315. w

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Courtesy Big Cedar Lodge (4)

MISSOURI

Hole 9 at the Gary Player-designed Mountain Top course. Opposite, from top: The secluded lodging at Big Cedar; the Osage Restaurant’s rotunda room; the spa features an indoor grotto pool with rustic stone walls.

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WISCONSIN Some might argue that SAND VALLEY (sandvalley.com) shed its discreet status the moment reports circulated in 2013 that developer Mike Keiser had purchased the property’s 1,700 acres.

After all, legendary Keiser opened Bandon Dunes on Oregon’s southern coast in 1999 and subsequently created the Cabot Links resort in northern Nova Scotia in 2011. But Sand Valley remains lesser known (at least for now) because its location in far-away-from-everything central Wisconsin does not immediately spring to mind when golfers consider a luxurious links getaway.

The resort’s first, namesake course, Sand Valley (a Coore & Crenshaw design), opened in 2017; its second layout, Mammoth Dunes, opened last spring. Designed by David McLay Kidd (the architect who penned the first layout at Bandon Dunes), Mammoth Dunes stretches to 6,935 yards from the back tees and features wide fairways, playable rough, and green complexes shaped in such a way that players are not penalized if they hit somewhat errant approach shots. Those characteristics, Kidd reveals, align with his design philosophy to assist average players and high handicappers.

“Making birdie is the best thing in golf, no matter how you do it,” he says. “And the minute that you’re not chasing birdie, I’m going to try to help you.”

Most recently, the resort announced plans to build a third 18-hole course— this one designed by Tom Doak and modeled after England’s Heathland courses, which generally measure around 6,000 yards. When it’s complete, that par-68 layout will further enhance the resort’s golf-centric lifestyle. “The purity of the experience is like nothing else,” Kidd says of a visit to Sand Valley. “It’s all about, and only about, the golf.”

Top Accommodations: Four-bedroom cottages, from $900. w

Clockwise from top: A four-bedroom “cottage” at Sand Valley in central Wisconsin; the villas’ interiors feature a modern rustic aesthetic; hole 3 at Sand Valley’s Mammoth Dunes.

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Courtesy Sand Valley (3)

TEXAS When considering a Lone Star State getaway, golf travelers likely think of the Four Seasons at Las Colinas in Dallas, which is home to two courses: the TPC Four Seasons Las Colinas and Cottonwood Valley. Just 215 miles south, outside of Austin, HORSESHOE BAY RESORT (hsbresort.com) may garner less attention; however, the 400-room property is unique in that it’s the only destination in the continental United States to feature three Robert Trent Jones Sr.–designed courses, each one distinct in its appearance and the challenges that it presents.

“That’s the coolest thing about this property,” says Anthony Holder, the resort’s director of golf operations.

“There’s a course here for everyone.”

The resort spans 7,000 acres of varied terrain, a characteristic that the owners wanted to preserve when they began developing the property during the early 1970s. For that reason, they commissioned Robert Trent Jones Sr. to design the first course, Slick Rock, since the architect championed a design strategy that valued the preservation of a site’s natural topography.

Slick Rock immediately became (and still is) a resplendent American parkland layout, while the subsequent two 18-hole courses, Ram Rock and Apple Rock, were built on stretches of land defined by meandering creeks, pronounced changes of elevation, and untouched, native areas.

All three courses recently benefited from restorations and renovations that were carried out by Robert Trent Jones Jr., the original architect’s oldest son (work on Apple Rock, the last course to be renovated, is expected to wrap up this year). “Slick Rock went back to what it originally was,” says Ken Gorzycki, the resort’s director of agronomy. “We were able to expose the old skeletons of the bunkers that were lost over the years, and we uncovered and reclaimed a lot of what Mr. Jones had originally designed.”

Top Accommodations: Private rental homes, from $485.

Clockwise from top left: The clubhouse at Horseshoe Bay Resort; The Loop, the newest course at Forest Dunes Golf Club in Roscommon, Michigan; the milliondollar hole at Slick Rock, originally designed by Robert Trent Jones Sr. 120 Spring 2019

Courtesy Horseshoe Bay Resort/Tony Secker. Opposite Page: Courtesy Forest Dunes Golf Club/Evan Schiller.

MICHIGAN The name of the newest course at FOREST DUNES GOLF CLUB (forestdunesgolf.com) in Roscommon, Michigan, aptly describes the shape of its layout and reflects its reversible nature.

What The Loop does not convey is the course’s striking similarities to Scottish links, both in appearance and playability.

Designed by Tom Doak, the 6,704-yard or 6,805-yard layout (depending on the direction being played; the course is set up to play clockwise one day, counterclockwise the next) opened in 2016 and is a stark contrast to the club’s namesake course, Forest Dunes, which was designed by Tom Weiskopf and opened in 2002. The pristine fairways, greens, and tee boxes on the 7,116-yard Forest Dunes course established the club’s reputation. “You drive into the middle of nowhere and then about 30 miles more and all you see is scrub pine and roughlooking native areas,” says Elliott Oscar, the club’s head golf professional, of the Au Sable State Forest that surrounds the club. “Then you have these vibrant,

green fairways that are cut through the trees.”

The 18th greens of the two courses are only about 500 yards apart, but separated by a parking lot.

“We have a member who calls the parking lot the Atlantic Ocean,” says Oscar, “because that’s the equivalent of what you’re crossing when you go from one side to the other.”

On the east side of the parking lot, golfers familiar with American parkland courses feel right at home, hitting shots on the Weiskopf course that will succeed or fail based on the distance they fly in the air. On the west side, the fescue fairways and firm terrain surrounding the greens on Doak’s more rugged layout will condition golfers to embrace (and rue) unpredictable bounces.

“It looks so simple when you’re standing on the tee boxes,” Oscar says of The Loop, “but the more you play the course, the more you can see Doak’s intention and the genius behind it.”

Top Accommodations: Four-bedroom villas, from $475. w

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OREGON

to play golf and have fun on. The goats add to that.”

The ranch’s two reversible, 18hole courses that opened in spring 2018 deliver a more traditional links experience, playing just over 7,000 yards in both directions and utilizing nine shared greens. Wide fairways and large putting surfaces accompany dramatic vistas of the surrounding Ponderosa pine–covered hills. “This is the only place in frontier Oregon,” says Colby Marshall, vice president of livestock and guest services, and general manager of The Retreat & Links, “where you can have this type of experience and play 54 holes of unique golf.”

From above: The Retreat & Links features 34 cabins; Mike, the goat caddie; Gauntlet, a new, seven-hole short course in east-central Oregon.

Top Accommodations: Two-bedroom lakeside cabins, from $950. u

Courtesy Silvies Valley Ranch (3).

A tee shot on the 95-yard fifth hole at McVeigh’s Gauntlet—the new, seven-hole short course at SILVIES VALLEY RANCH (silvies.us) in east-central Oregon—lands pin high about a yard from the green.

Given the strong headwind coming in from the north and the vast expanse of sagebrush that encircles the green only a few yards from the putting surface, the outcome is pleasing. The caddie, Mike, is less impressed. Maybe that’s to be expected. After all, Mike is a goat.

The Gauntlet is the fourth golf course at The Retreat & Links, the official name of a 34-room resort nestled inside 140,000 acres of a working cattle ranch.

The facetious caddie program only highlights the rugged and extreme nature of the course’s seven holes—a layout that course architect Dan Hixson describes as “fantasy golf.” Outfitted with leather-and-canvas packs that can hold six clubs, a dozen balls, tees, and six canned beverages, the goats make an already memorable round of golf even more distinct.

“It’s really not about my architecture,” Hixson says, acknowledging that, aside from the areas used for the tee boxes and greens, he moved and cleared little land to create the Gauntlet course.

“It’s the experience of being out in frontier Oregon and seeing fantasy holes

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NEW YORK CITY LAS VEGAS BOSTON BACK BAY BOSTON SEAPORT PHILADELPHIA HOUSTON DALLAS FORT WORTH PLANO DENVER CHARLOTTE WASHINGTON, DC ORLANDO ATLANTA SAN DIEGO LOS ANGELES

D E L F R I S C O S . C O M

WHAT’S HOT

THE

LUXURY

ABOVE

LOOK

& BELOW

WHETHER YOU’RE SKIMMING THE WAVES OR DIVING BENEATH THEM, THIS GEAR WILL KEEP YOU MOVING. Photography ANDREW YEE Styling HEIDI MEEK

F

rom its sunburst-painted edges inspired by classic Gibson guitars to its rosewood rails, the Beau Lake Special Edition One Drop stand-up paddleboard is a floating piece of art. This is a SUP that looks as good on your wall as it does on the water. The Canada-based company is known for its collection of beautifully hand-finished boards and this latest edition is a collaboration between Beau Lake and the life-altering One Drop Foundation, which provides access to safe drinking water in some of the world’s most impoverished communities. Each board purchased includes a donation to One Drop: at $15,000, the One Drop 800 will give a community of approximately 800 residents sustainable access to safe water for life; the $10,000 One Drop 500 model does the same for 500 people; and the $5,000 One Drop 200 model provides for up to 200 people. A subtle One Drop logo on the underside and a discreet model number medallion on the top display your support for the cause in a low-key way. As Paul Lavoie, co-founder and CEO of Beau Lake, says, “Water is a luxury we can’t afford to take for granted.”

With high-quality woods and cutting-edge design, each Beau Lake board is a true high-performance paddleboard; a single

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fin provides stability and reduces drag, while the nearly flat bottom makes for a fast-moving platform.

If diving is more your speed, take off underwater on the Seabob jet. This portable electric device can pull you along the surface at speeds up to 14 mph, and beneath it up to 12 mph.

Snorkel, dive, or race with a squeeze of the trigger handles, turn your body to steer, and hold on. If you let go, the machine stops. The Seabob has a maximum depth of 131 feet, but set any limit you like. If you exceed your pre-set range, it turns off and floats to the surface. Throw on a dive mask and jet above the water or gear up with a full scuba kit and ride deep along the reef. No more fighting the current or working hard to get back to the boat. The electric motor means no emissions to foul the waters, and the 60-minute operating range gives you plenty of time on or under the water. Recharging takes only 90 minutes with the optional quick charger. Optional on-board cameras allow you to photograph and record your antics, including a selfie mode through the centrally located display, which also tells you water temperature, depth, speed, and battery life. Three customizable versions, in a range of colors, are available—from the 8.5-mph F5 to the faster F5 SR, which features rear fins for extra stability.

—David Keith

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LUXURY

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RIP CURL wetsuit, $90; ripcurl.com AQUALUNG scuba diving mask, $69; aqualung.com SEABOB JET, from $9,415; seabob.com

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THE

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LOOK

CHROMAT swimsuit, $325; chromat.com WARBY PARKER sunglasses, $95; warbyparker.com BEAU LAKE Special Edition One Drop SUP, from $5,000, and carbon-fiber paddle, $300; beaulake.com

Hair/makeup PAUL BLANCH

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LUXURY

LOOK

CARBON CARVERS Carbon fiber has worked its way from the aerospace industry in the late ’50s to auto racing and sporting goods. Now it’s on the line-up to catch the surfing wave.

Surfboard manufacturers have been steadily adding carbon fiber to their constructions to reduce weight and increase strength. But as with most things in life, balance is important and too much carbon in a board can make it too stiff. The majority of carbon boards contain foam or polyurethane cores. Carbon fiber is used in the deck and bottom part to make the board lighter; and in the rails or sides, to make it stiffer.

Conditions can determine whether a carbon board is the right ride for the day: If the waves are smooth, a stiff carbon board will react quicker, but when the waves are choppier, or bumpy, a softer board will absorb some of that energy to make for a smoother ride.

Riding carbon fiber’s popularity wave are board manufacturers Beau Lake and Gong. Beau Lake’s Rapid 14’ ($4,200), made of Macassar ebony and carbon fiber, is a stunning board that always looks like it’s moving, even out of the water. At 14 feet long, with a nose shaped like a ’30s-era speedboat and a flat bottom, the Rapid lives up to its namesake. Gong SUP 9’2 Freak 125 ($1,124), made in France, is another board that makes judicious use of carbon fiber to increase performance without increasing weight. Its foam core is reinforced with carbon fiber on the deck, bottom, and rails to make it a great performing smallwave board. gongsupshop.com

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CREATE WAVES CROSS CLASSIC CENTURY® SPRING 2019

DOES FORM FOLLOW FUNCTION? OR DOES FUNCTION DRIVE FORM? WHATEVER YOUR POINT OF VIEW, CLASSIC CENTURY DELIVERS. GENERATIONS LATER, PASSIONATE FANS REMAIN LOYAL TO THE ICONIC SILHOUETTE, WHILE TRENDSETTERS APPRECIATE ITS AUTHENTICITY. COOL COMES FULL CIRCLE. AVAILABLE AT SPECIALTY RETAILERS AND CROSS.COM

TECH

BODY REBOOT NEW TECHNOLOGY-DRIVEN PRODUCTS AIM TO DO YOU GOOD.

by Ted Alan Stedman

It looks like a standard full-length mirror, but turn it on and the Mirror interactive home gym transforms into an immersive studio workout. Mirror’s responsive display—comprising an LCD panel, stereo speakers, a camera and a lens cap for privacy, a microphone, and a one-way mirror—allows you to see yourself, your instructor, and your classmates during real-time sessions. More than 50 live classes are offered per week; or use its extensive library of on-demand workouts. $1,495, plus a $39/month subscription; mirror.co 130 Spring 2019

Water sports fans can enjoy music while maintaining auditory awareness of the surrounding environment with the AfterShokz Xtrainerz waterproof, bone conduction MP3 headphones.

Worn around the ears, the headphones deliver sound to the inner ear through the cheekbones without obstructing normal hearing. The waterproof Xtrainerz don’t require connectivity to a device, and instead use 4 GB of built-in storage (about 1,000 songs) powered by a battery good for six hours of use. $150; aftershokz.com

Courtesy Images Clockwise From Top: AfterShokz; JaxJox; Omron Healthcare; Stealth Body Fitness. Opposite Page: Courtesy Mirror

The JaxJox KettlebellConnect has transformed this old-school gym stalwart into a smart weight that’s fun to use. With its companion app that controls internal cylinder loads from 12 to 42 pounds, you choose the preferred lifting weight in 6-pound increments from the base stand and proceed with your workout. The app tracks your reps, pounds, and movements, whether you’re doing swings, catches, or halos, and its space-saving, all-in-one design eliminates the need for multiple kettlebells of different sizes. $350; jaxjox.com

Plank exercises develop core strength, but the routine can be monotonous. Enter the Stealth Core Trainer, a balance board that transforms the exercise into a game. The board pairs with Stealth’s mobile app, which turns you into a veritable human joystick operating a video game while in plank position. The resulting play incentivizes you to go the distance while racking up points with a competitive scoring system. From $150; stealthbodyfitness.com

The Omron HeartGuide blood pressure monitor is a marvel of miniaturization in the form of a wristwatch, using minuscule pumps and air bladders to perform oscillometric measurements similar to those used during clinical tests. Monitoring blood pressure, daily activity, and sleep quality, HeartGuide tracks trends in blood pressure, activity, and sleep quality over time and helps users stay within healthy ranges while identifying potential forms of hypertension. Using its app, the device wirelessly uploads readings that can be shared with physicians. $500; omronhealthcare.com w

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The PowerDot 2.0 smart muscle stimulator is the world’s first app-based neuromuscular electric stimulation (NMES) device, designed to reduce recovery time and increase muscular performance.

Rechargeable and rated for up to 20 hours of continuous use, PowerDot uses small electric pods controlled by a mobile app to deliver targeted electrical muscle stimulation that promotes muscle contractions and enhances recovery times.

The app tracks data and allows access to more than 10 NMES programs for a customizable experience. From $200; powerdot.com

The Dodow sleep aid can retrain your brain to fall asleep more quickly, using exercises derived from cognitive therapy, yoga techniques, and meditation. Like a light metronome, the device projects a slow, rhythmic halo of blue light to the ceiling, which creates a calming, mesmerizing effect that slows breathing and reduces anxiety. Portable, with auto shutoff and adjustable light intensity, the method has no side effects. $60; sodasays.com

An alternative to the CamelBak for hassle-free hydration and gear storage is the Salomon S/Lab Sense Ultra 5 Set. It’s ideal for athletes like runners who count on balance, fitness, stability, and comfort during self-propelled competition. Weighing a wispy 6.7 ounces, the mesh vest takes a minimalist approach with 10 exterior pockets designed for easy, on-the-move access to soft hydration flasks and other necessities. The quick-dry, breathable vest includes an 8-ounce flask, reflective elements, and a whistle for overall safety. $155; salomon.com

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Courtesy Images Clockwise From Top: PowerDot; Modius Health; Salomon; Dodow

Using safe, established technology, the Modius weight loss headset stimulates the vestibular nerve, which influences the hypothalamus and brain stem to reduce cravings and appetite and increase a sense of fullness. With the Modius app synced to the headset, users dial in the preferred signal strength and follow a daily hour-long schedule. Users have reported an average weight loss of 9.5 and 10.2 pounds (women and men, respectively). $480; modiushealth.com

CHAT IT UP WHATEVER YOU NEED, WHEREVER YOU ARE, WHENEVER YOU WANT IT, THE NEW LUXURY CARD APP BRINGS CONCIERGE SERVICE TO THE NEXT LEVEL.

A

pps, those specialized programs downloaded onto mobile devices, are becoming more and more ubiquitous in helping to fulfill everyday tasks. It’s all part of the artificial intelligence revolution taking hold of the computing industry. AI promises to change the way we work and live, letting machines learn enough that they can complete undertakings that currently require people.

We are more connected, and yet more disconnected, than ever before. As we interact at breakneck speed and frequency through social media, we have lost that one-on-one personal interaction that has proven crucial to building strong and lasting relationships. A key to building a proprietary app is providing value to the user. If the experience is not a high priority, that value is lost. Bottom line: It’s all about service.

And directly communicating with someone, rather than pushing buttons and speaking to a recording, gets things done, faster and easier.

The Luxury Card App is a first of its kind in this regard. Available to members who carry any of Luxury Card’s three world-class, premium credit cards—Mastercard Gold Card, Mastercard Black Card, and Mastercard Titanium Card—the app offers immediate access to a live chat with a concierge specialist who can help you with any request 24/7. This invaluable feature sets it apart from other apps on the market that operate under the guise of having a full-time chat service that’s easily accessible. Users of other credit card apps must search for the service in the “contact us” area, because the app is really a do-it-yourself program meant to deter calls to the help center­­­—you even get extra reward points if you go the self-serve route online.

With the Luxury Card App, the welcome screen greets you personally and grants you immediate access to chat with an individual to book that once-in-a-lifetime trip or that hard-to-get dinner reservation anywhere you are in the world. Plus, an entire suite of cardmember benefits, the ability to manage your account, pay bills, and check a charge are at your fingertips on your mobile phone—with no bots and no AI. u

Curated experiences are based on cardmember interests and what they have been asking for.

Users can book accommodations instantly at preferred properties offering special amenities.

The app is designed to inspire, but can also handle day-to-day needs, saving time in the process.

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HEALTH

LIFE in the FAST LANE Can starving yourself for days at a time extend your years and make you smarter?

by Mark Ellwood

134 Spring 2019

Courtesy Buchinger Wilhelmi

I

t had been a stressful few years for 51-year-old Australian hotelier Rob Potter-Sanders. Converting a ramshackle masseria in Puglia, Italy, to a chic boutique hotel, he gained weight from eating poorly, struggled to sleep more than six hours each night, and was smoking more than ever. On the recommendation of a friend he booked 10 days at a spa near Lake Constance in Germany.

Although the idea may sound glamorous, this was no indulgent retreat; Buchinger Wilhelmi (buchinger-wilhelmi .com) puts the “spa” in “Spartan.” Since the 1950s, clients have flocked to the discreet, expensive clinic for one reason: to submit to a regimen devised by Dr. Otto Buchinger, a German military physician who championed the health benefits of responsible, medically supervised fasting.

The leafy, modern clinic with 150 rooms ranging from modest singles to spacious suites has promoted the benefits of calorie restriction since its inception, but a rash of recent studies is boosting the profile of the theory. Contemporary proponents suggest both intermittent and periodic fasting schedules maximize benefits. Buchinger Wilhelmi’s thesis is the latter, suggesting a reduction in calorie intake for several days, back to back, every few months. w

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Replace credits with this: Courtesy Buchinger Wilhelmi (3). Opposite Page, Courtesy Images Counter-Clockwise From Top Left: Buchinger Wilhelmi (2); Atria Publicity; Avery Publicity

At first, the idea didn’t appeal to PotterSanders. “Normally, I panic if I’m going to miss dinner and I eat within five minutes of waking up,” he says. “But fasting absolutely changed everything for me.”

The hotelier adhered strictly to the doctor’s 10-day program, built around an extended period when calorie intake is restricted to 250 or fewer per day. While the spa guests fast, they’re encouraged to join bracing walks in the nearby forests or swim in the pool (there are even cooking classes for the masochistic). Meanwhile, medical staff take daily readings of vital statistics and conduct treatments aimed at purging the body of toxins: Afternoons include daily liver compresses, for instance, swaddling the body with a hot water bottle to stimulate the organ’s self-cleansing. After he spent 10 days following this protocol, Potter-Sanders lost almost 15 pounds; he also saw his cholesterol and blood pressure return to normal.

On the side of intermittent fasting, the highest-profile proponent is Californiabased researcher Valter Longo, who authored the book The Longevity Diet.

Longo prescribes a standard diet for 350 days a year. Three times a year he recommends his precise, five-day meal program to send the body into a fasting state. British TV producer and author Michael Mosley’s regimen is synonymous with this approach via his own bestselling book, The Fast Diet. There’s no definitive science as to whether periodic or intermittent fasting is more effective, though both seem to produce benefits.

They have the same goal: Beyond simple weight loss, fasting increases what doctors call your “health span”—not only living longer but avoiding infirmity while you do.

Peter Bowes, a longtime BBC reporter in Los Angeles, has explored the fasting phenomenon in depth; he now hosts the Live Long and Master Aging podcast. The fundamental scientific underpinning for both regimens, he explains, centers on a naturally occurring hormone, insulin-like growth factor 1 (IGF-1), that’s produced by the liver. It’s crucial for healthy growth in childhood, but high levels of IGF-1 in adults are believed to significantly increase the risk of certain diseases, including colorectal and breast cancers. Per Bowes, studies have consistently shown that fasting diets reduce its levels in the body, which then remain lower than normal even when calorie restriction is eased and so increase your potential health span.

Scenes from a stay at Buchinger Wilhelmi (clockwise from top left): Fasting soup; a room with a view; the sauna; private golf lessons; functional training sessions; a sunset swim.

The Longevity Diet book program is available for purchase at prolonfast.com.

The body undergoes another beneficial process during fasting known as autophagy (you might call it the Captain America effect). Fasting forces the body to flush out defective cells, like white blood cells, and replace them with healthy new ones, much like the Super Soldier Serum that upgraded Captain America’s scrawny physique.

Indeed, in the weeks after fasting, Bowes swears he’s fitter and can lift heavier weights at the gym. Calorierestricted diets force the body into a state known as ketosis. “This is when you burn fat in your body for energy, as opposed to glucose, because there’s no glucose left,” says Bowes. It impacts

more than just weight loss—it sharpens cognition, too. “You experience this mental euphoria, whereby your brain seems to be working faster, and you’re more alert and responsive.”

This aspect of the practice drew neuroscientist Mark Mattson from Maryland’s National Institute on Aging to study fasting. His much-viewed TEDx Talk is titled “Why Fasting Bolsters Brainpower.” As he explains, ketones are much-welcome, chemical by-products of the process of ketosis in the body.

“They optimize your metabolism in a way that protects against diabetes and cardiovascular disease, but they also stimulate cells to optimize their functionality.” (No wonder Peter Bowes feels like a Super Soldier.)

What’s more, ketones increase production of a specific protein: brainderived neurotrophic factor, which has been shown to protect neurons against stress and promote the formation of new synapses—two effects that play a critical role in avoiding dementia.

Back in the 1950s, Dr. Buchinger was commonly considered a quack for his passionate belief that fasting could have life-changing impacts on your health. But he had firsthand evidence, successfully committing to calorie deprivation to help him walk after septicemia-related rheumatism left him wheelchair-bound.

Certainly, Potter-Sanders would agree about the noticeable impact.

“My skin was amazing, and I didn’t know I had a little arthritis in my fingers— well, until it disappeared during my stay,” he marvels. The effects weren’t solely physical, either. “I have never been so calm, so happy, and so relaxed.” After his first 10-day stay, he returned for two more trips, and he’s planning a two-week stay this November. “You have so much energy when you do this, and I want to keep the energy. It changed my life.”

And probably lengthened it. w

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SWEAT IT OUT that fresh-air fitness can have a long-term impact.

It’s a real-life farmer’s walk: 26-year-old Tom Kemp, a former hockey player turned personal trainer, began using a corner of his family’s 600-acre arable smallholding near Stansted Airport, outside of London, as an impromptu outdoor gym.

“Farm Fitness originated from training with bits of old and surplus machinery I found lying around the farm. I used anything I could find, such as chains or iron weights that could be used for a workout,” he says. Kemp had helped at the farm since he was a small child, so he knew the equipment well: stacks of tractor tires, for example, were ideal for box jumps, while smaller tires stood in for barbells once wedged at either end of discarded axels.

Kemp found the intense, alfresco workouts both enjoyable and highly effective, so he reasoned a few existing clients might want to join him. Inadvertently, he stumbled onto a business. Those ad hoc circuits morphed into Farm Fitness (farmfitness.co.uk), an outdoor, boot camp–style training program that offers group classes, personal training sessions, and corporate packages for the likes of Nike and Red Bull. Participants rely on updated riffs on manual labor to improve their fitness: jumping jacks, push-ups, and hand weights are replaced with pulling and pushing metal equipment, carrying sandbags, and slamming chains.

Kemp’s latest piece of machinery is an old quad bike, complete with off-road tires, upcycled as a prowler that can be pushed off-road and around the fields—almost anywhere on the property. His classes follow the rule of compound, carry, and conditioning: each routine combines a compound exercise like squats or deadlifting with carry (farmer’s walks or similar), plus burpees and ball jumps for conditioning. Kemp has even converted an old outhouse nearby into an indoor gym should the notorious British weather prove too dreary, though he rarely uses it. “We have built a resilient community who trains week in and week out,” he says proudly. “They’re not fazed by bad weather conditions or getting wet and muddy, as the workouts are so rewarding.”

The British entrepreneur isn’t alone: Farm Fitness is part of a new category of workouts built on mud, sweat, and (occasional) tears—many of them responding to the phenomenon of the MAMIL, or “middle-aged man in Lycra.” Instead of splurging on a Ferrari, men like chef Gordon Ramsay have used their midlife crisis to trim their midriffs via extreme outdoor exercise. Andrew Wilson runs D.R.I.L.L. (outdoorfitness.co.nz), a fresh air–powered boot 138 Spring 2019

Courtesy Images Clockwise From Top: Farm Fitness (2); Tough Mudder. Opposite Page, From Left: Courtesy Tough Mudder; Courtesy Dr. Sharad Paul

A global charge of outdoor boot camps is proving

TEST CASE

DNA mapping may be the key to a tailor-made diet and exercise routine.

camp that’s spread across New Zealand, the spiritual home of extreme sports. “It all started when a group of my clients wanted to head outdoors for a change, and I noticed a difference in their mood,” he says. Now, Wilson runs HIIT-style classes across the country, with plans to expand to Australia soon. He’s also overseen group outings to participate in Tough Mudder (toughmudder.com), the mud-spattered endurance race that’s become a worldwide phenomenon since entrepreneur Will Dean launched it after studying the idea during his Harvard MBA. Though it’s dubbed a race, the 8- to 10-mile course doesn’t time its competitors. Instead, Tough Mudder emphasizes teamwork to help everyone get through 25 fiendishly constructed obstacles, whether it’s a field of wires charged with 10,000 volts of electricity or a cooking spray– covered pipe they must try to climb. The adult obstacle course has become a phenomenon, inspiring everything from tattoos (the firm claims that more than 1,000 course alums have chosen to ink its logo on their bodies) to a passel of adrenaline-charged competitors: Zombie Mud Run, Warrior Dash, and even the hazing-like Spartan Race, which penalizes those who fail at any obstacle with instructions to complete 30 burpees as penance.

There are gentler alternatives available stateside, too. Google alumna Alexandra Kenin is the founder of Urban Hiker (urbanhikersf.com) in San Francisco. She uses the city’s steep terrain, from sand dunes to stairways, as a backdrop for bracing hikes that combine sightseeing with exercise. In Colorado, herb farmer Cindy Jones of Colorado Aromatics (coloradoaromatics.com) lays out mats between her rows of lavender while it’s in bloom to create aromatic yoga classes. Since this herb is known for its ability to reduce anxiety and stress, Jones believes the classes can be especially impactful.

Certainly, science suggests that so-called “green exercise” like this has greater demonstrable benefits than an indoor class or two. Researchers from California Pacific Orthopedic showed that men who opt for alfresco exercise lose, on average, 7 pounds more than their gym-bound counterparts and have 6 percent less body fat. Another study, run by a subsidiary of the universities of Exeter and Plymouth in the United Kingdom, found that those who exercised outdoors enjoyed it more and were more likely to stick to the regimen long term.

That’s great news for Kemp, who is planning to launch e-books outlining his training courses for those too far away to sign up for his classes; and franchising, so that farms can add a second, unlikely revenue stream alongside arable or cattle. “Whenever I go back to an indoor gym now, I feel claustrophobic,” he says. “When you’re in that red zone of your heart rate, you really want to be out in the fresh air.” —Mark ­­­ Ellwood

Dr. Sharad Paul (drsharadpaul.com), a skin cancer surgeon in New Zealand, always began treatment regimens with a DNA test. “Increasingly for many cancers, we tailor treatment depending on the presences or absence of specific genes,” he says. “Then I thought: We do this all the time for illness, what about day-today things, for example, caffeine? Why don’t we do some gene tests for wellness?” That revelation led him to launch the RxEvolution GT21 Gene Test. The $300 service uses 23andMe-style genomics to create a personalized exercise and diet program, tailor-made according to genetic proclivities.

After submitting a small sample of saliva by mail, Paul reviews the results and writes a plain-language report.

This doesn’t detail your heritage, but rather your health.

It will outline everything from a predisposition to the main food intolerances to how genetic variations can affect your body’s response to different forms of exercise.

Perhaps you’re prone to exhaustion, and it could be offset by upping those naturally low levels of iron, he says. “One in five people have a gene that causes them to metabolize vitamin C improperly, so doubling or tripling your intake can help overcome the slow, but gradual increase in weight, blood pressure, or sugars that this gene-variant causes. Knowing this may help you stay healthier and skinnier more easily.”

The GT21 gene test can also boost the impact of any exercise. Put simply, some genes predispose us toward endurance (marathon running, for example) while others emphasize power (like weightlifting).

“If you’re more suited for power exercises, you’ll get more bang for your buck from even light weights and tailoring your fitness regimen accordingly,” he explains.

For instance, the test could flag that you’re prone to injuring your Achilles heel, so you know to wear protective footwear, or it could offer reassurance for the next time your enthusiasm is strained by an especially grueling class: You might be highly motivated to exercise, but sadly, not a natural-born athlete.

Paul’s work has widespread applications. For individuals, of course, it’s the perfect starting point for a personal trainer or nutritionist, but there are more strategic options. He has started collaborating with local schools to advise rugby coaches about which positions their pupils are genetically best suited to play. u­­­ —M.E. Spring 2019 139

Next-Level Fitness

ONE-ON-ONE WORKOUT SESSIONS AT HOME WILL ONLY TAKE YOU SO FAR. A new cabal of ultra-exclusive gyms lures even the most private patrons with nutrition gurus and proprietary methods, promising personal space, laundered apparel, and just enough community to keep things cool. They’re the wellness world’s answer to a nightclub’s VIP room, where the lithe and like-minded can work out together without interruption—or the inconvenience of ordinary Joes and Janes clogging up the machines.

by Mark Ellwood

Zenergy Sun Valley

Sitaras

Sitaras

Exos

Zenergy Sun Valley zenergysv.com

sitarasinc.com

Phoenix THE BACKSTORY Former Washington State University linebacker Mark Verstegen built an impressive client roster, coaching famous athletes like Nomar Garciaparra, Mia Hamm, and Curt Schilling. In 1999 he founded his first performance center, and has since expanded to working with over 400 sites worldwide. The 31,000-squarefoot West Coast headquarters remains a mecca for A-list athletes. Members work out here any way they like, be it swimming in the pool, sweating in the gym, or running around the 80-yard football field.

Sun Valley, Idaho THE BACKSTORY This enormous complex features 50,000 square feet of bodyfinessing facilities: indoor and outdoor saltwater pools and an oversized hot tub, more than 85 classes each week, acupuncture and reflexology at the on-site spa, indoor cycling, and tennis courts. There’s even a sports rehab clinic offering treatments like blood-flow restriction training, which is claimed to boost strength or hasten recovery after an injury.

GET PUMPED BY The steam room here features an unexpected upgrade borrowed from the best Slavic spas: a Himalayan salt sauna. The walls are packed with trace minerals identical to those in the human body. Adherents believe that an extended session can help balance hormones and eliminate toxins from your system.

Upper East Side, New York THE BACKSTORY John Sitaras’ association with fitness began when he was a bodybuilding teen; he founded his namesake training facility, discreetly tucked into two floors of an office tower on Manhattan’s Upper East Side, in 2006. It’s as much a community as a workout center: membership is capped at just 200 people, and everyone who joins must commit to working out there at least twice every week.

GET PUMPED BY Sitaras’ proprietary personal training program focuses on extensive testing of strength, flexibility, and endurance. The results of those tests are entered into a software program that draws up a fitness plan in response.

He has a Starship Enterprise–like room where banks of computers digitally track the performance of individual muscles, especially problematic ones, in each of his members.

WORKOUT PARTNERS Wall Street one-namers like George and Jack (that’s Soros and Welch).

MEMBERSHIP DUES $175/month, plus twice weekly PT sessions at $170 each

teamexos.com WHERE

GET PUMPED BY Nutrition coaching and blood work for custom diet and exercise programs are available. You can hire the gym’s corporate arm to devise a menu and workout facility for an entire company like Franklin Square Capital Partners did.

WORKOUT PARTNERS Crack commandos and bare-knuckle fighters, plus wouldbe NFL players.

MEMBERSHIP DUES Not available

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WHERE

WORKOUT PARTNERS C-suite types and their spouses taking a break from flyfishing and mountain-climbing.

MEMBERSHIP DUES $2,500 initiation fee, plus $150/month

WHERE

Courtesy Images From Left: Exos; Zenergy; Sitaras.

Exos

BXR

KX Life

E by Equinox, St. James’s, London The Preserve

The Preserve

thepreservehouston.com Houston THE BACKSTORY This natureinspired gym (hence the name) intends to bring a soulful depth to workouts, nixing artificial light and industrial fixtures for an outdoor deck accommodating dawn yoga, floor-to-ceiling windows that look out across nearby gardens, and a living plant wall in the entryway. There’s a short-course pool, as well as standard weight rooms and studios for classes.

Courtesy Images Clockwise From Top Right: BXR; E by Equinox; KX Life; The Preserve.

WHERE

GET PUMPED BY The

1,500-square-foot studio dedicated entirely to Pilates and the cycle studio, designed so that its lights coordinate with the music to create an all-around sensory experience.

WORKOUT PARTNERS Morning people; this gym features a variety of classes that start as early as 5:45 a.m.

MEMBERSHIP DUES $219/ month

KX Life

kxlife.co.uk Chelsea, London THE BACKSTORY This gym has oozed the cachet of a velvet rope–ringed nightclub since opening in 2002. Low lighting, dark wood panels, and sexy clientele are signatures of the place—the site of a luxe subterranean supper club before fitnessmad former banker Simon Fry took it over. The facility now features a large workout room, six dedicated fitness studios, a clinic for Botox and other enhancements, and a plush, sit-down restaurant.

WHERE

GET PUMPED BY Downton Abbey–level attention to detail: Hire a private locker and leave your sweaty clothes there; they will reappear washed, pressed, and folded for your next visit. Just remember to call it “Kicks,” as regulars do.

WORKOUT PARTNERS A-list actors, pop stars, even a royal by the name of Harry.

MEMBERSHIP DUES A $2,620 initiation fee, plus $750/month

E By Equinox

BXR

WHERE New York; St James’s, London THE BACKSTORY After more than a decade operating as facilities within its standard clubs, elite workout chain Equinox spun off its secretive E by Equinox program into standalone sites (one with retina-scan access for a secret agent–like edge). Now, it runs two E clubs (with more planned): New York’s Upper East Side location opened in December and another in Hudson Yards opens in June. The first club opened in late 2017, a short jog from London’s Savile Row. GET PUMPED BY E features Tier X personal training and a spa with energy-boosting BEMER (Bio-Electronic-Magnetic Energy Regulation) therapy.

Workout clothes are freshly laundered, alongside towels.

WORKOUT PARTNERS Homesick American expats like Meghan Markle—she’s been spotted at Pilates classes.

MEMBERSHIP DUES A $750 initiation fee, plus $500/month

Marylebone, London THE BACKSTORY Hotelier André Balazs set Marylebone ablaze when he opened the Chiltern Firehouse five years ago, and now there’s a berth where overnighting A-listers can wait out the paparazzi in peace—and get pumped at the same time.

The 12,000-square-foot, bi-level BXR gym centers on a fullsized fighting ring by Ringcraft, complete with custom braided leather ropes.

GET PUMPED BY There’s a roster of trainers on hand, including former boxing champions and MMA fighters, as well as an on-site clinic to help with strains and staffed by the Centre for Health & Human Performance. But it’s the small, thoughtful details where BXR’s a knockout: TPI Sound speakers (the same as in many Ibiza nightclubs) are built into the facility.

WORKOUT PARTNERS Founding committee members include DJ Mark Ronson, models Sara Sampaio and Maryna Linchuk, and, of course, Balazs himself.

MEMBERSHIP DUES From $230/month u

ebyequinox.com

bxrlondon.com

WHERE

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BEAUTY

AGELESS WONDERS As environmental triggers like pollution, stress, and UV rays intensify, so does the damage to our hair, skin, and body. To promote scalp health; soothe, soften, and protect skin; and combat the signs of maturation, an expanding genre of anti-aging products have come to market. Here, the top performers that promise to repair and restore.

1 French-born hairstylist Julien Farel, founder of the uber-popular Julien Farel Restore Salon and Spa in New York’s Loews Regency Hotel, created what he claims to be the first-ever ageless product. A scalp and hair treatment rooted in cleansing and conditioning, Farel’s A2B, or Anti-Aging Balance, is built upon a proprietary skincarebased technology that includes a cocktail of hyaluronic acid, hydrolyzed rice protein, Echinacea stem cell extracts, and a mineral complex. Designed to replace traditional shampoo and conditioner, the shampoo treatment delivers bioactives to replenish strands, lock in hydration, and balance pH levels, all while promoting microcirculation and the production of collagen, elastin, and keratin (a building block of healthy hair). $39; julienfarel.com 142 Spring 2019

2 Founded by a team of MIT engineers and developers, personalized haircare brand Function of Beauty allows each client to create a unique shampoo and conditioner via a thorough (albeit user-friendly) online quiz that includes selecting hair type, structure, scalp moisture, and hair goals. Key ingredients, such as baobab seed protein, algae extract, carob seed extract, and acetyl hexapeptide-1, are massaged directly into the scalp to protect against irritation caused by environmental stressors and nutrient loss. $36 for a duo of 8-ounce bottles; functionofbeauty.com 3 Michelle Ranavat tapped her Indian heritage to formulate the Mighty Majesty Fortifying Hair Serum. A combination of amla (a superfood also known as Indian gooseberry), sunflower oil, and jasmine, the serum functions as an overnight deep-

conditioning masque to be washed out in the morning or lightly applied as a finishing product. Amla’s high concentration of vitamin C paired with sunflower oil’s elevated levels of vitamin E and oleic acid (omega 9), which controls breakage and stimulates healthy hair growth, nourishes the scalp. Jasmine’s anti-fungal properties strengthen the hair shafts and keep the scalp flake-free. $55; ranavatbotanics.com 4 Sometimes external wellness must begin internally. Cult favorite Biologique Recherche’s Lotion P50 has been adapted via a Poly-Alpha-Beta-Hydroxy-Acid complex with balancing and astringent agents into haircare via Biologique Recherche Lotion P50 Capillaire Purifying Scalp Lotion.

It exfoliates the scalp, balances pH, and regulates sebum secretion. $100 for 8.5 ounces; paullabrecque.com w

Jonathan Pozniak

HAIR HELP

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5 La Prairie Platinum Rare Cellular LifeLotion is a velvety soft viscose formulation that’s meant to be used after cleansing and toning, and before applying serum, to prepare the skin for absorption. In the process, it instantly hydrates and addresses all signs of aging, including increased elasticity, firmness, radiance, and smoothness. The formula consists of an advanced platinum complex— the rare, precious metal paired with an ultraconcentrated blend of active ingredients, which, when combined, create a three-step “haute-rejuvenation” system that detoxifies, rebuilds, and reinvigorates skin cells. $655; laprairie.com 6 Everyone knows a good skincare routine starts with a thorough cleansing that removes all traces of makeup and dirt and eliminates dead skin cells. Guinot’s Clean Logic Range is a new two-step process that does it all, and more. Begin with Cleansing Care Cream made of shea oil and a hydrocyte complex containing hyaluronic acid to moisturize and strengthen the lipid barrier, which protects 144 Spring 2019

against wrinkles and reduced elasticity. Then apply the Revitalizing Care Lotion to gently exfoliate and tone, preparing skin for the products that follow. $54 each; guinotusa.com 7 When dermatologist Timm Golueke introduced his Royal Fern anti-aging skincare range in 2015, it was a revolutionary breakthrough in plant-based science. The fern extract proved to combat aging skin on all levels: protecting against the effects of UV light, inhibiting the loss of collagen, reducing hyperpigmentation, and soothing inflammation, to name just a few of the benefits. Now, two supercharged ampoules, Royal Fern Phytoactive Anti-Oxidative and Royal Fern Phytoactive Illuminating, are filled with concentrates that reduce skin damage from free radicals and improve skin texture, respectively. Choose the one that suits your needs and use it to power boost your daily skin routine. $195 for a box of 15; royalfern.com 8 Shiseido Ultimate Sun Protection Lotion SPF 50+ contains WetForce technology, which has been specifically created to address

the way water and perspiration interact with sunscreen. The formula remains waterresistant for 80 minutes and the longer you wear it, the more powerful and UVprotective it becomes. It also has the ability to magically remove the smell of sweat and morph it into a more pleasant scent. $40; shiseido.com

BODY BONUS 9 Alleven London is a skin perfector that hydrates, contours, and conceals. Founded by former model, jewelry designer, and art collector Celia Forner Venturi, the light mist creates a flawless, airbrushed finish that dries quickly and is water- and rub-resistant.

A first of its kind, the product contains a powerful blend of botanical ingredients and innovative technology that increases skin’s resistance to sun damage while hiding imperfections and the visible signs of aging. $80 for 200 ml; skinstore.com u

—Reported by Alexandra Cheney, Alix Strauss, and Deborah Frank

Jonathan Pozniak. Opposite: Peter Dazeley/Getty Images

SKIN SAVERS

THE BROTOX BOOM Cosmetic procedures for men, on their terms.

by Mark Ellwood

D

r. Grant Stevens wanted Marina Manland (marinamanland.com) to feel like a cross between a sports bar and a clubby cigar lounge in a classic London hotel, so he outfitted the male-centric cosmetic clinic in Marina del Rey, California, with dark wood fixtures, copper ceilings, and plush leather seats.

Yet men don’t come here for a nip of whiskey but rather non-surgical nips (and tucks): everything from neck lifts and liposuction to dermal fillers and sweat elimination. The room for hair procedures is called the Lion’s Den (think plush manes).

In the restroom, a flat-screen TV plays the making of the Sports Illustrated Swimsuit Edition video on a loop.

The idea for this unconventional spa came to Stevens, president of the American Society for Aesthetic Plastic Surgery, when he noticed an uptick in the number of men he was treating. He asked 200 of them to give input on their ideal male-skewing facility, which he opened in 2016 at his conventional clinic Marina Plastic Surgery.

“Men want anonymity—a separate entrance and exit from the main spa—and speed, to get in and out as quickly as possible,” says Stevens.

He isn’t alone in spotting the potential in the so-called “Brotox” boom. Dr. Norman Rowe in New York runs The Club House (theclubhouse.nyc), a men’s cosmetic clinic and man cave that opened in 2017. Here, the entire staff is male and the treatments, such as hair replacement, are tailor-made for men. Fellow Manhattan surgeon Dr. Gerald Imber (drimber.com) hasn’t opened a standalone men’s clinic, but has also seen a surge in male patients, who now make up a third of his business and include unlikely adherents such as real estate moguls and financial execs.

Imber agrees that it’s important to address men’s needs separately from women’s needs. “They’re not concerned with smile lines—they think that makes them look powerful— but they hate bags under their eyes and the turkey wattle under the chin,” Imber says. Stevens describes male patients more pithily: “They are incredibly loyal and have a low pain tolerance; they’re big babies.”

The American Society of Aesthetic Plastic Surgery has tracked this shift: From 2012 to 2017, there was a 27.3 percent increase in men undergoing surgical cosmetic procedures

stateside. According to both Stevens and Imber, the emergence of lipo-alternative Coolsculpting was pivotal to this change. The speedy treatment requires little recovery time and can shift fat that even exercise devotees might struggle to eliminate. In youth-driven Silicon Valley, executives turn to freshening techniques to get hired and keep their jobs among the twentysomething workforce. Newfound marketing to men is another factor. Deion Sanders is a high-profile endorser of Botox, and Manland has used pioneering patients like ESPN stalwarts Steve Mason and Beto Duran to promote itself. In 2018, Botox-maker Allergan launched a series of male-targeted ads during the Stanley Cup finals and baseball games.

Perhaps, though, it’s simply that men are finally being granted permission to admit they care about their appearance.

“If you have washboard abs, you don’t want wrinkles on your forehead. So what’s the difference between going to the gym and a little Botox?” says Imber. “Men look in the mirror every bit as often as women do, but we close the door first.” u

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Island Ties A getaway to Fiji’s top private-island resorts delivers much more than pristine beaches and turquoise waters.

Text and Photographs by Jonathan Pozniak

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The hilltop village church at Wakaya Club & Spa allows guests the opportunity to enjoy the local choir. Opposite: Vatuvara’s electric sunset.

Spring 2019 147

Fijians walk through life with a melody in their hearts.

Every occasion has a song with a spirited tune and a sense of purity and warmth.

So it’s no surprise when greeting new arrivals on the private island of Wakaya, staff members of the Wakaya Club & Spa sing “Bula Maleya” and say, “Welcome home”—even though visitors might be quite far from it. To reach Fiji’s Nadi Airport requires flying between continents, boarding a 45-minute private charter to a tiny airstrip, and taking a

148 Spring 2019

rocky drive through the forest before reaching the resort. But the trip proves well worth it once the nine bures and three villas come into view, merging with earth and sea, forged of fallen trees and tucked in among tropical foliage.

A bustling activities desk or an energetic pool scene is nowhere to be found. Rather, Wakaya is for downshifting and experiencing relaxation in its most primal expressions: privacy without

isolation; sightseeing minus the agenda.

Fijian-trained chefs put on grand feasts of marinated tuna ribbons, local venison simmered in just-picked coriander, a traditional kokoda of freshly caught fish soaked overnight in bush lemon juice and bathed in fresh coconut milk. The Fijian philosophy that food always tastes better when shared has ruled kitchens across the island from high-end resorts to remote villages. You’ll taste a bit of

Fijian warriors at Wakaya watch the sun’s last rays of the day. Opposite: Fiji’s “Mainland” Viti Levu.

Indian, definitely some tropics, and rules don’t apply. Food is not fancy, eclectic, or Melanesian-Indian. It’s Fijian. Meals are not only about preparation techniques and ingredients, they are an extension of good hospitality.

Village life—that small-town reality of the people working at Wakaya and other resorts around Fiji—makes the place feel particularly friendly. This characteristic warmth exudes across the islands and

farther east to the remote Northern Lau chain, where the country looks wilder, even mysterious. General managers Rob and Lynda Miller (Australian and American, respectively) have lived the Fijian way for decades. They raised two kids remotely on Wakaya Island with little communication to the outside world beyond a ship-to-shore radio.

Since building Wakaya from the ground up into Fiji’s first five-star resort, they’ve

simultaneously built an incredibly unique life as real South Pacific pioneers.

From 2010 to 2015, they built Vatuvara Private Islands, where they inspire guests to connect with what’s truly important—the arts of traveling, living, and protecting what we have. Working with many of the same staff for decades since Wakaya, the Millers foster a strong network of “family ties” that connect staff among top resorts. The three stone w

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From left: Flying into Vatuvara on the resort’s private plane; Pacific Ocean spiny lobster and yellowfin tuna with locally grown bush lemon and lagoon sea salt; Vatuvara’s Valhalla restaurant. Opposite, from top: Vatuvara Foundation’s giant clam being reintroduced to the wild; a traditional kava ceremony at Wakaya.

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villas at Vatuvara were seemingly grown right out of jagged limestone terrain among eclectic pops of floral color. The dark, earthy interiors are grounding and balanced by the expanse of light and sea beyond their sundecks.

Outer reefs protect the island, ensuring absolute privacy. The entire resort is organically certified by U.S. and Australian standards, and 100 percent of the electricity comes from Tesla solar panels. All drinking water is drawn from desalination tanks and the sea salt from those is passed on to the culinary team, which has also started to make its own grade A virgin coconut oil from locally harvested coconuts.

The recent discovery of an ancient village settlement revealed a system of limestone caves where natives would hide from invaders. Dozens of medicinal plants and trees grow in the forests and the wealth of knowledge about them among local elders is immense. A few

years ago, a Fijian rugby player fractured his leg right before the 2015 Rugby World Cup. Charged with an eightmonth recovery, he returned to Fiji three weeks before the World Cup. Following four nights of traditional healing from a medicine man known as “the bone healer,” his leg improved. He stayed a few weeks, resting and taking herbal medicine. To the shock of doctors and coaches, one week before the World Cup, he was cleared to play.

Gifts like these are not apprenticed, but passed down intuitively, and the practice of natural medicine remains strong. “The real worth is in protecting what you love,” says Lynda. “We want people to know that what they do impacts the world. With the beauty and conservation efforts here, we hope to inspire visitors to love and protect nature, wherever they love it.”

At Six Senses Fiji in the Mamanucas island group, traditional Fijian practices

NOT TO MISS The Charity: Vatuvara Foundation

influence the spa menu. A range of treatments use the highest quality Ayurvedic products with essential oils, which are especially healing for facials and body treatments. Fijian-inspired detox treatments pair massages with banana leaves from the garden and locally harvested sea grapes caught offshore.

Blending traditional spa treatments with an authentic sense of place opened the door to many natural healing elements.

Fijian bobo massage uses indigenous herbs, lemongrass, ginger shavings, and sea salt in a steamed herbal poultice.

Coconut oil scrubs are handmade hours before they are used with ingredients grown on the property. Visiting practitioners stay for months at a time to share their expertise, and an aloe farm ensures visitors can find quick relief for sunburns. At the Alchemy Bar, guests make personalized beauty products like scrubs and soaps from island ingredients: lemongrass, chilies, kava, papaya. Plants

Katy Miller, Rob and Lynda’s daughter, lived a storybook upbringing on Wakaya Island and has learned the value of the natural world since her earliest days. The Northern Lau island group remains virtually untouched since the days of Captain Cook’s expeditions. In early 2017, Katy became the director of the Vatuvara Foundation with the goal of protecting local wildlife and their fragile breeding grounds, preventing poaching, educating local communities about conservation, and becoming a model for resorts around the world. Neighboring islands that are virtually unexplored support rare, endemic, threatened, and endangered species, all thriving thanks to their isolation.

Katy’s favorite project is reintroducing giant clams back into the wild. The foundation supports three cages 164 feet offshore from the resort that house 200 giant clams in various stages of growth and protects them from predators. Local fisheries supervised spawning, and Katy receives the 2-inch-long babies. Staff monitor the juvenile giant clams daily, marking water changes, tide shifts, and ocean acidification. Giant clams have been extinct in the wild in Fiji due to humans both consuming and poaching them to be sold to aquariums. In three to five years, thanks to this work, they’ll be repopulated back into surrounding waters, thriving in the clear sunlit water with abundant nutrients and a moving current.

The foundation has also surveyed local reefs, repopulating them with heat-resistant corals and moving fragile corals into cooler waters to survive heat waves. Coconut crabs have also been on the decline, so the team has been keeping a watchful eye on them to prevent poaching. Despite being a delicacy in many places, they’re the largest land crab on earth and have pincher strength greater than that of a lion’s jaw.

Educational programs for local villagers and youth teach about topics from coral bleaching to plastic waste. “I believe we are all entirely connected to the sea and all life on Earth is dependent on the health of our oceans,” says Katy. “I was immersed in Fijian culture from a young age, and this connection between land, sea, and people has been an important grounding throughout my life.

Through the foundation’s initiatives, I’m able promote marine environmental awareness and work closely with local communities in a place I hold close to my heart.”

The Drink: Kava

Almost no one leaves Fiji without trying kava. This muddy, late-night drink made of ground pepper roots is a tongue-numbing, lip-tingling tradition. Originally served only in ceremony with chiefs, it’s now enjoyed around a large bowl, or tanoa, with friends holding their portion in bilos, or half coconut shells. What’s the magic effect? It’s oh-sorelaxing and you’ll sleep like a baby.

The Sport: Rugby

The national obsession here is rugby, and Fijians are naturally built for it. Historically, chasing wild boar required hunters to run through thick rainforest, jumping in and out of the water. Fast and agile with a natural aggressiveness, Fijian athletes are born to play.

The Fiji Sevens train minutes from Nanuku at Uprising Beach Resort. The day they won gold at the Rio Olympics, the whole country stopped. “It was the craziest thing in Fijian history. Not a single car or bus was on the road,” recounts a local. “There was pin-drop silence, and then the collective roars of celebration were heard across every island.”

It took 48 hours for the team to travel from Nadi to Suva, instead of the usual four. No villager would let them pass without cheers and thanks. To mark their most-celebrated event in history, the government issued a limited-edition $7 bill and 50-cent coin. If you get one, don’t spend it! w Spring 2019 151

Native Fijian dress is alive and well at Wakaya. Right: a beachfront villa with private plunge pool at Six Senses Fiji.

and herbs used to treat the common cold as well as broken bones begin as seedlings in small bamboo pods.

Much of the garden’s wealth is sent straight to the kitchen. Check Cluckingham Palace (the resort chicken coop) for eggs to bring to the chef for breakfast. An open channel from the spa to the kitchen connects guests to the best ingredients, whether detoxing, relaxing, or sleeping.

Nanuku Auberge Resort, located on the country’s main island of Viti Levu, a two-hour drive from Nadi Airport, caters to two types of vacationers: those who need to relax and those who crave an adventure. Guests lounge by the pool, receiving any comfort and service they desire. In contrast, Viti Levu is the gateway to exploration, offering experiences found nowhere else. Among the 50 or so excursions available are opportunities to go cageless shark diving or traipse in the rainforest with medicine

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men, go underwater spearfishing or train with the Fiji Sevens rugby team.

To give back, the team at Nanuku has worked with guests to plant more than 3,000 mangrove seedlings since early 2017. Storing 50 times more carbon than rainforests, mangroves serve as breeding grounds for sea animals and protect beaches from erosion.

Each week a team uses old plastic water bottles to introduce new plantings.

The resort pays local villagers to collect bottles, which keeps the beaches clean and funnels money back into the local communities.

O

n the flight home, looking out across the ocean from above, mile after mile of precise, geometric waves resembles a patchwork. The revelation is that surrounding these freckles of land, the patchwork just isn’t that big. When the chef at one resort says their son is expecting a guest at the next resort,

the guests can expect to hear the son’s stories of growing up with kids from a previous resort. Fiji feels like one big extended family that works, shares, and grows up with each other, solidifying a bond that spans generations.

The best thing any visitor can do is to talk to people, share some late-night kava with locals, and listen to stories from the staff. Each island is beautiful, but the real experience of Fiji lies within its people. No matter the resort you depart from, the entire staff will come out to sing you their traditional, tear-inducing farewell song, “Isa Lei.” There’s an uncanny sense of something familiar here, as though these strangers have led you back to yourself.

Many who visit don’t quite know what to expect beyond turquoise sea and palm trees. Leba, a masseuse at Vatuvara, said it best, “We know our secrets; why would we give it all away before you arrive? It’s for us to know and you to find out.”

WHERE TO STAY Wakaya Club & Spa

This private island resort features eight one-bedroom Oceanfront bures (Fijian for “house”), a two-bedroom Ambassador’s Bure with a private pool, and a sprawling 4,500-square-foot, three-bedroom Valeo Bure (meaning “home in the clouds”). Sega Na Leqa is a design-heavy, 12,000-square-foot one-bedroom mansion plus guest villa, three pools, a gym, a spa, and a full chef ’s kitchen.

The resort’s spa and restaurant are unbeatable.

From $2,600, all-inclusive, plus one-hour private flight to and from Nadi, $2,500/ couple; wakayaresort.com

Vatuvara Private Islands

This ultra-private, organically certified resort has just three one-bedroom villas ranging from 4,000 to 7,000 square feet, all featuring spacious sundecks, infinity pools, direct beach access, and views of neighboring islands.

Stays are tailor-made with land and water activities, in-villa massage treatments, and chefs specializing in organic, Pacific Rim cuisine, all caught and grown locally, and prepared to guest specifications. The resort is all-inclusive with transport to and from Nadi or Suva on its private aircraft. While the island caters to adults, the entire island may be booked for families seeking the ultimate in privacy. Four-night minimum, prices upon request; vatuvara.com

Six Senses Fiji

Opened in April, these 24 villas and nine multi-bedroom residences are a 35-minute boat ride or 10-minute helicopter flight from Nadi. With wellness as a main focus, a Guest Experience Maker, or GEM, arranges spa treatments as well as water sports throughout each guest’s stay. The resort’s own marina welcomes travelers arriving by yacht. From $1,000; sixsenses.com

Nanuku Auberge Resort

Thirty-seven suites, villas, and multi-bedroom residences comprise the resort, located a two-hour drive or a quick helicopter ride from Nadi International Airport. Each guest is assigned an itokani, meaning “best buddy” in Fijian. This person oversees every element of guests’ stays and works with them to build their adventure itinerary outside the resort.

Kids of all ages are assigned nannies or can live their best lives at the kids club. From $450; aubergeresorts.com u

Clockwise from top right: Wayaka Club & Spa’s signature soaking tub; Nanuku Auberge Resort’s beachfront pool; the stone and wood interior of Vatuvara’s Delana Villa; a private treatment room at Six Senses Fiji.

GETTING THERE Fiji’s 300-plus islands are served by Fiji Airways (fijiairways.com), offering direct 11-hour flights from both LAX and SFO. Refurbished aircraft feature lie-flat business class seats and arguably the most-friendly service in the sky.

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LONG SHOT

by Mark Ellwood

Selling a top-shelf tequila could have been a non-starter.

And then came cristalino.

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Images Courtesy of Volcan De Mi Tierra (2)

The

Storing cut agave at Volcån’s distillery.

Opposite: Agave fields at the base of a dormant volcano in the Mexican state of Jalisco.

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Courtesy Maestro Dobel. Opposite Page, Courtesy Volcan De Mi Tierra (4)

F

ive years ago Trent Fraser was facing a conundrum. The longtime LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton exec, most recently helping to run Dom Pérignon Champagne, had been transferred to Mexico to explore how the firm could enter the ultra-premium tequila market.

It was a tricky challenge: Although overseas markets might consider tequila a luxury product, the spirit risks dismissal among sophisticated Mexicans as old-fashioned firewater.

Fraser was standing in a bar in Guadalajara, at the end of another long day, when inspiration struck.

Four young, well-dressed, articulate women sidled up to the barkeep. They ordered shots of clear liquid, which he dispensed with a flourish from a twinkly, faceted bottle. They sipped the shots, chatting animatedly, before quickly ordering another round. Those were exactly the people—sophisticated, engaged—that LVMH wanted its would-be tequila to reach. What were they drinking? Fraser recalls the fateful evening, “I called the bartender over, and he said, ‘Cristalino.’ And that’s when the light bulb went off.”

The result of that chance encounter is the just-launched tequila brand Volcán De Mi Tierra (volcan.com), of which Fraser is president and CEO. Many tequilas might be offered in three expressions: blanco or silver, the crisp, unaged version, ideal for mixing; a semi-aged reposado; and a dark, whiskey-like añejo. Volcán is different, offered in just two expressions: the classic blanco and that mysterious cristalino Fraser first heard about from the Guadalajara bartender.

A decade ago in Mexico, cristalino tequila was largely unknown, but now this new category is a bona fide phenomenon—set to surge stateside thanks to Volcán and a passel of rivals (see “The Sipping Point,” page 158).

Think of cristalino as an añejo that could pass for a blanco at first glass (an age-defying appearance even Catherine Zeta-Jones would envy).

The cristalino distillation process undergoes an extra, high-tech step before bottling: activated charcoal filtration. This process removes much if not all of the color, which that liquid has absorbed from the wood, while preserving the rich, soft sweetness it has developed while sitting in the barrel.

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Volcán De Mi Tierra uses copper stills instead of the standard stainless steel to minimize the chance of flavor contamination.

To make it, producers take the same premium, blue agave distillate as for any tequila. It’s then aged in barrels, as if destined to be sold as an añejo.

The difference is that it undergoes an extra, high-tech step before bottling: activated charcoal filtration. This process removes much if not all of the color, which that liquid has absorbed from the wood, while preserving the rich, soft sweetness it has developed while sitting in the barrel; it has a softer mouthfeel, like an añejo, but the drinkability of a blanco. As such,

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cristalino is the ultimate sipping tequila.

Fraser believes this expression has major potential to expand the audience who might drink Volcán or its peers, and without compromising on quality.

All of his production takes place at a small distillery, sitting on a 3-acre parcel at the base of the enormous dormant volcano that dominates the terroir of Jalisco (hence the name, Volcano of My Land). When he found the distillery the site was heavily distressed; still Fraser describes it as “this little jewel.”

He applied the same stringent

quality controls to this project that he’d learned during his years with Dom Pérignon. Six agave-growing families were formally contracted as sources for the raw agave, ranged across the lowlands and the highlands of the region. Blending tequilas from those two areas, Fraser reasoned, would allow Volcán to leverage the bright, greentinged flavors characteristic of the lowlands with the softer, fruitier profile that highland-grown agave provides.

Then he and his team workshopped the production process, painstakingly

Courtesy Images From Left: Don Julio; Maestro Dobel; 1800 Tequila. Opposite Page, Courtesy Images Clockwise From Top Left: Maestro Dobel (2); Volcan De Mi Tierra (2)

tweaking each element. They rely on champagne yeast for fermentation (best for taste, they found), and use copper stills (rather than the standard stainless steel) to minimize the chance of any flavor contamination. It took almost 150 attempts to create the initial basic blend that would become Volcán’s signature blanco. The liquid destined to be cristalino, though, requires more patience. The distillate blend is batched into barrels—in this case, sourced from sister LVMH brands Glenmorangie and Hennessy—to create classic añejo and extra-añejo tequilas. Both are blended again in a different ratio before the mixture is passed through the charcoal filter. Even for a liquor vet like Fraser, it was difficult to create his ideal cristalino.

“We did make some mistakes early on in the process,” he says. “If you want a completely clear liquid, you often have to overwork it—which we do not want to do, as you lose flavor. Pour a big pint of our cristalino now and you still see some yellow hues.” The filtered product is then returned to a neutral barrel for 15 days to help stabilize the liquid and round out its mouthfeel, before finally going to bottle.

The origins of cristalino in Mexico are muddled, with two rival brands claiming to have launched the first example. Maestro Dobel (maestrodobel.com) launched a claro it dubbed Diamante in 2008. The filtered, aged tequila is clear in the glass, but richer and softer when you sip it.

Yet it was Don Julio (donjulio.com) that coined the now-ubiquitous term cristalino, as part of the 70th birthday celebrations for the brand in 2011.

As one industry expert explains, no one expected it to be more than a fun gimmick. “I know for a fact that when they came out with it, they thought it would be a limited edition, something people might buy for Christmas,” the expert says. Another driver behind the launch was more practical: Don Julio found itself with a surfeit of añejo tequila that it didn’t expect to sell.

Reprocessing and repackaging it as a keepsake, of course, was the perfect solution. Yet this new tequila was an instant, runaway hit.

Premium packaged in black and silver, the new cristalino had shelf appeal in a bar and certainly created an instant cachet when offered for bottle

service in nightclubs (most tequilas in Mexico would be seen as far too fusty or cheap to splurge on in that way). It’s versatile and easy to drink, too, best treated like a Russian might treat fine vodka, by storing it in the fridge and serving on ice or chilled in a sippable shot as an aperitif or a digestif.

The flavor profile also encouraged drinkers to return to tequila, especially the older Mexicans who had defected to aged whiskies, according to Daniel Schneeweis, co-founder of tequila firm Milagro (milagrotequila .com). Instead of creating a cristalino, Schneeweis chose to create Único, a joven blend of Milagro’s finest barrelaged reserves. “When I first saw it, I thought it was crazy, but cristalino gave tequila a breath of fresh air,” he marvels. “Whiskey drinkers could find something that was very smooth, very sweet, and felt very premium—but was a tequila.” Other new groups were drawn to tequila via cristalino too, as Fraser had observed: The sweeter, vanilla-forward flavor of most cristalino has proven popular among women, a traditionally small tequila market in Mexico. Indeed, one in five bottles of Volcán sold today are cristalino, an impressive tally for such an unfamiliar expression. Producers are gleeful about its success, since this clear tequila sells for a significant premium over standard silver; at $70, a bottle of Volcán De Mi Tierra cristalino, for example, costs 55 percent more than the Volcán blanco.

Perhaps the biggest endorsement of all is a looming announcement from the Tequila Regulatory Council. Founded 25 years ago to enforce the rules around tequila-making, the notoriously tight-lipped nonprofit polices every aspect of production—its latest innovation involves using drones to map agave farms, ensuring the number of plants on each plot correlates exactly with the purported production levels so no cheap substitute alcohols can taint the process. It also controls the official classification of tequila, decreeing with Supreme Court–like authority what constitutes a blanco, a reposado, and an añejo.

In 2006, after much deliberation, it added a category: extra-añejo, for tequilas aged in barrels for three years or more. Tequila insiders say that the Council is considering a fifth official category for its roster: the cristalino.

The Sipping Point We asked Amath Carmona, sommelier at the One&Only Palmilla resort in Los Cabos, Mexico, for his selection of four more cristalino tequilas worth sipping at home.

Here are his picks.

Don Julio 70 Aged for 18 months in American white-oak barrels, this edition is one of the pioneering cristalinos that Carmona loves for the silky mouthfeel. “It has incredible aromas on the nose and in the palate: lots of vanilla, caramel, and toasted brioche.” $88; donjulio.com Maestro Dobel Diamante Carmona calls out the minerality of this cristalino, which has a fan in former Mexican President Enrique Peña Nieto.

“The [raw] agave comes from the Tequila city region, where the soil is mostly volcanic and very heavy on the minerals, so there are lots of mineral flavors in the aftertaste. It’s also the driest of all the cristalinos.” $50; maestrodobel.com 1800 Cristalino Beautifully packaged in a bottle quilted with facets like a diamond, this premium release is aged in port barrels shipped from Portugal. It’s filtered very thoroughly, which softens the woodiness and tannins to give a rounder, more intense flavor.

Around $50; 1800tequila.com Cava de Oro Extra Añejo Cristalino Founded by Alberto Partida, scion of the tequila-making family, this awardwinning, small-batch cristalino is entirely based on extra-añejo rather than mixing it with añejo. “It’s had a huge impact on the market and is incredibly smooth,” raves Carmona. $90; cavadeoro.mx Spring 2019 159

Courtesy Château Saint-Martin & Spa (3)

1 9 5 8 Reinventing six legendary hotels for the 21st century—and beyond.

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by Jorge S. Arango

Château Saint-Martin & Spa in Vence, France, today and in 1958 (opposite)

COMEBACKS Spring 2019 161

Established in 1857, St. Moritz’s first luxury hotel lays claim to the first electric lighting in Switzerland (1879), the first public telephone network in Switzerland (1889), the oldest sports bar in the Alps (Sunny Bar), and hosting the opening of both the 1928 and 1948 Winter Olympics. It’s also said that if it weren’t for the Kulm, the ski industry would not exist in this lakeside resort town. It was a popular summer vacation destination until 1864 when owner Johannes Badrutt enticed a group of English guests to return in December to enjoy mild daytime temperatures and superb skiing (promising he’d reimburse their travel if they didn’t like it). They stayed through Easter.

Château Saint-Martin & Spa Vence, France

Built as a fortified estate in AD 360, the château weathered the Crusades and sheltered the Knights Templar but was in ruins by 1900. Parisian industrialist Fernand Genève bought it in 1935 and turned it into a hotel, now operated by the Oetker Collection. The hotel has always been both a quiet, low-key respite from the bustle of the French Riviera and a Michelinstarred culinary destination for day-trippers from the beaches.

Woody Allen filmed a few scenes from his 2014 movie Magic in the Moonlight here. German chancellor Konrad Adenauer and President Harry Truman both came here often in the 1950s. Later, Robert De Niro, Colin Firth, Emma Stone, Brad Pitt, and Angelina Jolie passed through.

What’s New: Prior to the spring 2018 reopening, all rooms and villas were revamped by Frankfurt-based Bergit Grafin Douglas of MM Design to feel lighter and brighter, with natural wood floors and fabrics from Pierre Frey, Manuel Canovas, Colefax and Fowler, and others. The La Prairie spa and Le Saint-Martin restaurant have been renovated, and a slew of new programs—culinary and nature-oriented biking and hiking through olive groves—have been added as well. Says General Manager Duarte Bon de Sousa, “We strive to introduce our guests to local artists and delicious local traditional food with a modern twist, all in a restyled contemporary French art de vivre.” oetkercollection.com

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What’s New: The property’s Kulm Country Club has undergone a $12.15 million renovation overseen by architect and local resident Norman Foster. A $7 million rooms revamp

by Pierre-Yves Rochon in the New Kulm Wing yielded a clean and contemporary feel without losing the original hotel’s rustic and luxurious charms. kulm.com

1928

Courtesy Images Clockwise from Bottom Left: Château Saint-Martin & Spa (2); Klum Hotel (3)

Hotel Kulm St. Moritz

Clockwise from Top: Palace of the Governors Photo Archives (2); Courtesy Bishop’s Lodge; Courtesy Ventana Big Sur, An Alila Resort (2); Joel Addams/Aurora/Alamy

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1925

Ventana Big Sur Big Sur, California

This homestead of the Post family since 1890 was opened in 1975 as The Ventana Inn. Producer Larry Spector used proceeds from the film he financed, Easy Rider, to complete the project. The hotel closed in May 2017 after the collapse of Pfeiffer Canyon Bridge in a record landslide and was reopened

by Singapore-based Alila Hotels & Resorts in October 2017.

This discreet bohemian hideaway with spectacular Pacific views attracts Hollywood’s elite, who come here to escape the glitter, recharge, and reconnect with nature.

What’s New: The property reopened with the first North American Spa Alila, a redesigned Social House, 59 refreshed rooms by Brayton Hughes Design Studio, the Glass House art gallery, an expanded terrace for chef Paul Corsentino’s Sur House restaurant, outdoor fireside seating, Redwood Canyon Glampsites, and a list of discovery-based experiences including wild foraging hike, falconry, a circle of life meditation, and an organic garden tour. ventanabigsur.com

Bishop’s Lodge Santa Fe, New Mexico

Originally the 19th-century ranch of the Bishop of Lamy (the original 1860s chapel he built still stands), the property was purchased by the Pulitzer family in 1915 and then by Denver mining man James R. Thorpe, who turned it into a resort in the 1920s. The Lodge became a cultural magnet, attracting artists, writers, celebrities, and Hollywood producers in search of horse stables and privacy. The film Crazy Heart, about a washed-up country musician played by Jeff Bridges, was filmed here in 2008. Tommy Lee Jones, Robert Redford, and Amazon CEO Jeff Bezos have stayed.

What’s New: Reopening in fall 2019, the latest face-lift

by HRV Hotel Partners and Auberge Resorts is extensive.

“We’re being good stewards of its old magic, soul, and history, while adding new experiences and signature events,” says developer Richard Holland. There will be a new wellness and spa facility designed by Sylvia Sapielli, new food and beverage concepts overseen by Chef Dean Fearing, expanded outdoors programs, an art gallery, an artist-in-residence program, renovated stables and chapel, and 120 new and restyled guest suites and residences.

Nunzio De Santis, the architect spearheading the renovation, describes the project as remaining “very true to the authenticity, language, and spirit of Bishop’s Lodge— albeit a little eclectic, with some contemporary furnishings that live and breathe next to one-of-a-kind pieces that are authentic to native Mexican and Indian cultures.” bishopslodge.com w Spring 2019 163

Kettner’s Townhouse London

Founded in 1867 by Napoleon III’s chef, Auguste Kettner, the hotel was one of the first establishments in London to serve French fare, a nouvelle mode in Victorian England. At the time, the neighborhood was both haute and not-so-haute bohemian with a mix of prestigious theaters like the Palace alongside brothels. It remained open through both World Wars and was a gathering place for creatives and politicos alike, becoming a little notorious for its history of illicit liaisons.

Its restaurant has served everyone from Winston Churchill to Margaret Thatcher. King Edward VII allegedly wooed his mistress Lillie Langtry here. More recently, fashionistas and designers have checked in.

What’s New: Reopened in January 2018 by Soho House Group, the hotel underwent a total overhaul of public spaces, now in an Anglo-French style. Refurbished rooms feature antique sinks, velvet furniture, and William Morris wallpaper. There’s also a magnificent collection of works by primarily British and Scottish artists, including Rachel Howard, France-Lise McGurn, Sara Beazley, Cornelia Parker, and Danny Augustine. At the restaurant, find a modernized menu featuring lighter fare and locally sourced ingredients.

“Kettner’s has always been about having fun and being a bit naughty,” avers General Manager Conor Sheehan, “whether it was through the excitement of being one of the first French restaurants in London, the parties of the 1920s, or the boozy lunches of the 1990s.” kettnerstownhouse.com

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Le Belmond Cap Juluca Anguilla, Lesser Antilles

Established 30 years ago as a quasi-Moroccan fantasia for celebrities seeking a quiet hideaway far from the high glamour of St. Barth’s and party-happy St. Maarten/SaintMartin, the resort became instantly famous for its beach on Maundays Bay, which many say is the most pristine, clear, and beautiful shoreline in the Western Hemisphere, if not the world. Emphasis remains on total escapism and barefoot luxury, allowing for a continued stream of famous guests like Liam Neeson, Harrison Ford, Penelope Cruz, Paris Hilton, Arnold Schwarzenegger, Sheryl Crow, and Jennifer Aniston.

What’s New: The Belmond Group, owners of other historic properties like El Encanto in Santa Barbara and Hotel Splendido in Portofino, purchased the property in 2017, closing for a major refurbishment and sinking $121 million into relocating the pool (which now overlooks the beautiful bay), building a new spa and fitness center, and ramping up the décor while retaining the tropical exoticism of the original design. New drinking and dining options include Cap Shack bar (featuring live music) and CIPs by Cipriani (serving dishes inspired by Belmond’s famed Venetian hotel in a casual setting). At Pimms restaurant, the newly hired British Chef Andy Gaskin (a veteran of Michelinstarred kitchens) is planning a nine-course chef’s table experience. belmond.com w

1988

Clockwise from top: Historic England Archive; Gary Calton/Alamy; Courtesy Le Belmond Cap Juluca; Courtesy Le Belmond Cap Juluca/Richard James Taylor; Courtesy Soho House Kettner’s Townhouse (2).

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In Laguna Beach, even luxury is laid-back.

Casually elegant guestrooms. Fine dining that’s never stuffy. Activities for everyone in the family - from barefoot golf to soothing spa treatments.

The Ranch at Laguna Beach just might redefine how you think of “luxury.” We know that pampering doesn’t have to be pretentious. That it’s good to loosen up once in a while.

And that the perfect getaway is in a place where you can do it all - or do nothing at all.

This uniquely Laguna Beach experience is so unique, in fact, that we’re the only California resort in the National Geographic Unique Lodges of the World collection.

Call us at (855) 863-7547 or visit www.RanchLB.com to plan your escape today.

ICONIC TRAILBLAZERS

Four new properties aim to be classics in their own rights.

The Jaffa Tel Aviv, Israel

Since August, this 120-room hotel has occupied a newly built building and the adjacent landmark 19th-century French Hospital, restored for over a decade by British architect John Pawson in collaboration with local architect Ramy Gill. Highlights include an L. Raphael Wellness Spa, Don Camillo Italian restaurant, Golda’s Jewish Deli, and the Chapel Lounge and Bar.

Significance: The blend of Pawson’s minimalist style with such ornate period architecture makes the property feel timeless, and its location is prime, adjacent to the bustling port city’s artist quarter and famous flea market. Operated by the Marriott International Luxury Collection, it was developed and is now owned by Aby Rosen of RFR Holding, which restored such Manhattan landmarks as Mies van der Rohe’s Seagram Building, Lever House, and the Gramercy Park Hotel. thejaffatelaviv.com

The Fontenay Hamburg, Germany

The 130-room urban resort opened in March overlooking Lake Alster and contains the 10,765-square-foot La Mer spa, Chef Cornelius Speinle’s Lakeside restaurant, and the sixth-floor Fontenay Bar with 320-degree views of the lake and city.

Significance: With its wavy form conceived by Hamburg-born architect Jan Störmer, porcelain tile cladding, and warmly modern interiors, the complex looks and feels like a natural addition to Hamburg’s exclusive Rotherbaum district. A mecca for architecture and design buffs, the neighborhood complements surrounding areas, such as Hafencity, which features Zaha Hadid’s promenade and Herzog & de Meuron’s Elbphilharmonie concert hall. thefontenay.de 166 Spring 2019

Palácio Tangará São Paulo, Brazil

Comfortably removed from the city center, this 141-room hotel opened in May 2017 in the lush Burle Marx Park and boasts grandly classic yet modern design elements, dining venues conceived by world-renowned Chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten, the Flora Spa by Sisley, and both indoor and outdoor pools.

Courtesy Images Clockwise from Top Right: Waldorf Astoria (4); Palácio Tangará (3). Opposite page Clockwise from Top Right, Courtesy: The Fontenay (3); The Jaffa/Amit Geron (3)

Significance: Tangará attracts a diverse crowd seeking luxury and refinement. This being the most populous city in South America and the economic center of the country, the hotel has become particularly popular with international business travelers and music personalities. oetkercollection.com

Waldorf Astoria Bangkok Thailand

The first Waldorf Astoria in Southeast Asia opened in August with 171 rooms in the heart of the wealthy neighborhood Ratchaprasong.

The property, atop a high-end residential tower, features a spa, a rooftop restaurant, a lounge, and two bars, all incorporating Asian twists on the classic New York Waldorf ’s signature venues: the Peacock Alley and the Bull & Bear restaurant.

Significance: International firm Andre Fú and his design studio AFSO scaled the interiors to feel grand, luxurious, dark, and moody with breathtaking views. The hotel rooms occupy floors 6 through 16 in the new 60-story tower, which is shaped like a Magnolia flower.

Find the restaurants on floors 55 to 57, designed by AyroKO. waldorfastoria3.hilton.com u Spring 2019 167

LOCATION, LOCATION, LOCATION 168 Spring 2019

Courtesy Kobi Karp Architecture/Paul Stoppi

ARCHITECTURE & DESIGN

This Miami home is enviably close to Hard Rock Stadium, where Super Bowl LIV will be played in 2020.

FROM MONACO TO LOUISVILLE, THESE DISTINCTIVE HOMES HAVE THE ADDED BENEFIT OF CLOSE PROXIMITY TO THE WORLD’S COOLEST SPORTING EVENTS, INCLUDING SURFING COMPETITIONS AND OLYMPIC MATCHES.

by Jorge S. Arango Spring 2019 169

170 Spring 2019

Courtesy Kobi Karp Architecture/Paul Stoppi (4)

1. MIAMI

Sporting Event: Super Bowl LIV, February 2, 2020, nflonlocation.com Architecture: Kobi Karp Architecture Design Planning, kobikarp.com Interior Design: Kobi Karp with Argent Design Limited, argentdesign.co.uk Square Feet: 12,000 Bedrooms: 7 Baths: 9 Proximity to Event: A 15-minute drive “He’s a sports fanatic, very fit and trim, and she was a competitive ski racer,” says

architect Kobi Karp of the clients who own this stunning modernist home at the

northern reaches of Miami Beach. The husband’s game is golf, which was the reason

for purchasing the site; it’s practically across the street from La Gorce Country Club.

Considering the breathtaking marine views, says Karp, “The last thing you’d want

to do here is a white box. We wanted something dramatic.” To this end, the house

is appointed inside and out with a wealth of luxurious materials: decorative bronze metalwork and details throughout, oak and ipe woods, honed gray marble, slate,

keystone, and Mexican coquita stone from Tulum. “It’s a little darker than what you’d expect, which creates a more handsome, masculine feel,” he says.

“And there are no shiny materials—so it has a real barefoot elegance about it.” w

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Sporting Event: Kentucky Derby, May 4, 2019, kentuckyderby.com Architect: Unknown Interior Design: Leslie Cotter Interiors, lesliecotterinteriors.com Square Feet: 2,200 Bedrooms: 3 Baths: 2.5 Proximity to Event: A 10-minute drive History is not something Louisville takes lightly; its name honors King Louis XVI and France’s support during the Revolutionary War. Horse racing is also serious

historic business. The sport took root here in 1789, and the Derby has been held

continuously since 1875, when Churchill Downs opened. So, the past is something

Leslie Dorazil of Leslie Cotter Interiors wanted to respect in this circa 1900 Italianate home. “Both the exterior architecture and interior foundation of this home are rooted in traditional design,” she explains. “I never fight the architectural style of a home. I

lean more contemporary, but I’m careful to do so in an approachable way.” The young

clients have demanding jobs, so “the home needed to be a true retreat for them.” Dorazil achieved this with a warm, rich palette, furnishings showcasing modern silhouettes, and a contemporary sense of uncluttered space.

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Courtesy Leslie Cotter Interiors/Tim Furlong Jr. (4). Opposite Page: Courtesy Brittany Cason Interior Design/Lacey Sombar (4)

2. LOUISVILLE, KENTUCKY

3. AUGUSTA, GEORGIA

Sporting Event: Masters Golf Tournament, April 11–14, 2019, pga.com Architecture & Interior Design: Brittany Cason Johnston, brittanycasonintdesign.com Square Feet: 4,000 Bedrooms: 6 Baths: 6 Proximity to Event: 1.5 miles The professional golfer who lives here marks his balls with a Georgia-themed quarter and his wife was born here. So it makes sense that when they settled down to start a

family, they’d alight a stone’s throw from Augusta National Golf Club. “They’re young

and not stuffy,” says designer Brittany Cason Johnston. “They love being in their home and entertaining casually with family and friends.” Johnston gave them a clean, white palette, mitigating its potential starkness by layering in texture (velvets, grasscloth), “black for depth” (dining room lamps, the kitchen island’s barrel shades), pops of

color, and adventurous graphic touches (snakeskin-print wallpaper in the bath, a lively

pattern on a living room armchair and ottoman). These, she observes, “keep things fresh

and give a comfortable feel to the white, which can be pungent and harsh. Deeper tones, wood, and other details make it young and fresh, but cozy too.”

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Courtesy Humbert & Poyet (5)

174 Spring 2019

4. MONACO

Sporting Event: Formula One Monaco Grand Prix, May 23–26, 2019, monaco-grand-prix.com Architecture & Design: Humbert & Poyet, humbertpoyet.com Square Feet: 5,167 Bedrooms: 5 Baths: 5 Proximity to Event: A 2-minute walk

“The glory days of the Côte d’Azur were the ’50s, ’60s, and ’70s,” explains designer Emil Humbert. “When you design places in Southern France, you cannot forget this era.” No place exemplifies this more than Monaco, where celebrities like Audrey Hepburn, Brigitte Bardot, Roger Vadim,

Dalí, and Picasso flocked to enjoy the high life. This family apartment just 330 feet from the Circuit de Monaco recalls that glamorous heyday, but translates it into

“something very contemporary, with a positive energy.” Vintage pieces—by Pierre

Jeanneret, Jean Prouvé, and Marco Zanuso—share rooms with contemporary furniture such as Antonio Citterio’s sofa for Flexform, a dining table and chairs by Dimore

Studio, and bespoke furniture by Humbert and his business partner Christophe Poyet.

The results are as fitting for the fortysomething residents and their two children as they would be for modern-day Monaco denizens like billionaire heiress Tatiana Casiraghi and U2’s Bono. w

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Courtesy Richstone Properties (3)

5. WANDSWORTH, LONDON

Sporting Event: Wimbledon Championships, July 1–14, 2019, wimbledon.com Architecture & Interior Design: Richstone Properties, richstoneproperties .co.uk Square Feet: 35,000, with cottages and staff quarters Bedrooms: 8 suites and 3 cottage suites Baths: 8 Proximity to Event: A 10-minute drive Volleying for propinquity to Wimbledon, but craving the quiet grandeur of an 18th-

century estate? Templeton House, located 3 miles from the oldest tennis tournament in the world, is your ace. “Once the home of Winston Churchill, yet more recently used as student residences, the refurbishment of this beautiful historic building has been an iterative and painstaking process,” says David Rich-Jones, CEO of

Richstone Properties, who leases Templeton House to “A-listers and royalty.” He

likens converting the dorms to “piecing together a giant jigsaw.” Josiah

Wedgwood’s original plaster ceiling plaques were replicated, and 135 windows and shutters were restored and replaced. Modern amenities were discreetly installed

(parquet Versailles flooring of 400-year-old reclaimed Italian oak conceals radiant

heat). Interiors are undeniably grand, but not stuffy. “They were inspired by Templeton’s rich history and have embraced classical detail, but with an understanding of

creating spaces for comfortable and elegant contemporary living.” Fitness enthusiasts can do laps in the serene pool or practice their strokes on the estate’s all-weather championship tennis court. w

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Sporting Events: 2020 World Figure Skating Championships, March 16–22, 2020, skatecanada.ca Architecture & Interior Design: Scott Yetman Design, scottyetman.com Square Feet: 1,700 Bedrooms: 1 Baths: 2.5 Proximity to Event: A 20-minute walk or 9-minute drive “I always strive to create something classic but fresh,” says designer Scott Yetman.

“I wanted a modern apartment that uses antiques like artwork.”

Contemporary furniture (Hermès tub chairs; Herman Miller desk chair) mixes with

fine, 18th-century English and 19th-century French antiques (many from the famed

Maison Jansen). The clean, graphic black-and-white architectural envelope serves as a

perfect foil for the clients’ contemporary art collection, including works by well-known Canadian artists such as Shayne Dark and Czech-born Jakub Dolejs. Even Yetman’s

deployment of a slab of dramatically veined Statuario marble on the kitchen backsplash transforms it into art.

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Courtesy Scott Yetman Design/Drew Hadley (3). Opposite Page: Courtesy Wolveridge Architects (2)

6. MONTREAL

7. TORQUAY, AUSTRALIA

Sporting Event: Rip Curl Pro Bells Beach, April 17–27, 2019, worldsurfleague.com Architecture & Interior Design: Wolveridge Architects, wolveridge.com.au Square Feet: 3,230 Bedrooms: 3 Baths: 2 Proximity to Event: A 2-minute walk

Wherever you find surfers, you find the conditions that produce the point breaks, barrels, and bombs that the athletes live by: wind and saltwater. So, when Jerry Wolveridge designed a home for clients overlooking

coastal sand dunes and the Torquay Sands Golf Course and a short walk to Bells Beach—host to the longest-running pro surfing competition in the world—the

elements were of paramount concern. The form: “a complex of containers,” he explains,

“built from resilient materials, such as precast concrete and dense Australian hardwood cladding intended to silver over time. All of the containers have windows either north or south, and in most cases both. The sea breezes provide for regular air exchanges throughout the dwelling and limit the reliance on mechanical cooling.” He also

observes, “There are no west-facing windows and during summer, either overhangs

or batten screens limit solar access.”

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180 Spring 2019 Courtesy Atelier Tsuyoshi Tane Architects (4)

8. TOKYO

Sporting Events: 2020 Summer Olympics and Paralympics Games, July 24– August 9, 2020 and August 25–September 6, 2020, respectively, olympic.org and paralympic.org Architecture & Interior Design: Atelier Tsuyoshi Tane Architects, at-ta.fr Square Feet: 2,023 Bedrooms: 3 Baths: 1 Proximity to Event: A 30-minute drive or a 20-minute train ride The design Tsuyoshi Tane submitted for the 2020 Summer Olympics stadium

competition didn’t win (he was rewarded as a finalist, and architect Kengo Kuma

landed the job). But the firm did create a truly imaginative house from wood, earth, and stone in the densely forested Tokyo city ward of Setagaya. The small lot didn’t allow for much sprawl. Instead, the team accomplished several objectives by building up. At the bottom floor, three feet below grade and enveloped in a rainforest-like climate, “You

can feel nature much more closely,” says Tane. This attribute was particularly important to his landscape designer client, who “wanted the home to be part of the earth.” Of course, the verticality also maximized space, which is always a premium in Tokyo.

“The higher rooms take in the green surroundings and make you feel like you are in a tree house,” he says. They also capture breezes rising from the

windy valley nearby.

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RANGES, APPLIANCES, FINE CABINETRY & ACCESSORIES

The Quintessential Kitchen Details are brought to life in a careful and meticulous manner, carried out by master artisans to become timeless works of art.

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FURNISHINGS

KITCHEN AIDS Smart appliances designed for healthier living preserve nutrients, perfect lean meals, and even grow fresh produce indoors.

by Jorge S. Arango Sure, you can use Wolf Gourmet’s Precision Electric Griddle to make calorie-laden pancakes, but you can also sear meats with less oil on its nonstick surface and steam veggies or fish, thanks to its stainless steel lid. It’s an all-in-one solution for healthy cooking. $550; williams-sonoma.com

The Tribest Dynapro High Speed Vacuum Blender utilizes a 2.5 hp motor and a vacuum lid and pump to reduce oxidation, which protects against the loss of nutrients and flavor that occurs during a traditional high-speed blend. A built-in temperature indicator ensures that food remains raw (below 118 degrees). $600; tribestlife.com

The 16-square-foot capacity of the Excalibur 10Tray Dehydrator makes the job of turning fruits and vegetables into high-fiber, high-potassium, antioxidantrich snack foods quite easy. The appliance comes with two temperatures to speed up drying and a 99-hour digital timer. $1,000; excaliburdehydrator.com

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Courtesy Images From Top: Wolf Gourmet; Vermicular; Excalibur; Tribest. Opposite, Courtesy Images Clockwise From Top: Philips; Nesco; Paderno World Cuisine; Cuisinart; SproutsIO

Brothers Kumi and Tomo Hijikata of Vermicular created Musui, a state-of-the-art, hand-cast, enameled iron pot with airtight sealing and triple-thermal heating.

Combined with Kamado, a heating element with high-performance induction coils, the system exceeds electric and gas stove tops for power and precision, preparing perfect, nutrient-rich proteins and vegetables.

Musui is sold separately ($300) or with Kamado ($670); vermicular.us

Soup is the original health food, retaining more of the nutrients from foods than other cooking methods do. With the Philips Soup Maker, add ingredients to the Thermos-like vessel, select one of six settings (puréed, chunky, cold, etc.), and in 18 minutes or less, you’ll have 1.2 liters of anything from gazpacho to chicken noodle. The device doubles as a blender. $150; usa.philips.com

To assure you’re eating organic, set up the SproutsIO countertop growing system complete with proprietary sIO seed tray, add 2 gallons of water, and turn on the overhead LED. Sensors in the setup’s basin monitor temperature, humidity, and water level, turning on electronic misters as needed or occasionally sending a push notification for human intervention. A camera built into the lamp allows you to watch remotely how your garden grows. $800; sproutsio.com

Hammacher Schlemmer’s Cuisinart Toasting and Air Frying Oven uses high-velocity hot air instead of oil to cut down on grease. For healthier eating, “fry” tempura and fish ‘n’ chips or broil lean fish and meats in “toast” mode. $200; hammacher.com

The Nesco Vacuum Sealer with Digital Scale helps make portion control easy. The easy-to-read scale can weigh up to 11 pounds of food and vacuum seal it for freshness. $100; nesco.com

The Paderno World Cuisine 8-Cut Collapsible Spiralizer adds to its former 4-blade version for thicker noodle strands and ribbons, as well as rippled cuts. The gluten-free and carb-conscious can enjoy pasta-like dishes made with noodleshaped zucchini, squash, and other vegetables. $60; williams-sonoma.com w

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For the Raami dining collection from Finnish company Iittala, English designer Jasper Morrison wanted to create a feeling of informality. So for the glassware and candleholders, he used a fluted design to create something comfortably everyday with a delicate twist. $28 (set of 2 tumblers); finnstyle.com

Architect David Chipperfield designed Tonale dinnerware in 2009 for Alessi.

He recently added to the collection a large bowl, a pitcher, a milk jug, and a cup; he also introduced a striking black glaze. $16 (set of 4 mini cups or mini plates) to $96 (large bowl); alessi.com

AT YOUR SERVICE From floral blooms to free-spirited shapes, the careful details of these new tabletop designs will enhance any meal, even healthy bland ones.

Anna Weatherley has produced fine, hand-painted china in Hungary for over a quarter century, counting celebrity editrix Anna Wintour and the G.W. Bush White House among her clients. Her latest collection Woodland depicts curling leaves and flying insects. $325–$360; devinecorp.net

Chelse Muse from Lenox invites creativity to the table. Four 3-D patterns, six solid-color glazes, and five accessory pieces allow for a wide array of mixing and matching. From $23 (mug) to $86 (4-piece place setting); lenox.com 186 Spring 2019

Blomst, the first new design from Royal Copenhagen in a decade, reimagines the Danish firm’s 1779 Blue Flower pattern through a contemporary lens, devising an angular porcelain shape and bold, blue decoration. $95–$255; bloomingdales.com

Inspired by the earthy beauty of northern Spain, Salamanca

by Canvas Home showcases matte glazes and organic forms. Canvas Home worked with a small maker outside Barcelona using local clay to create the pieces, which can be purchased individually or as a 16-piece set. $40–$92 (individually) or $288 (set); canvashomestore.com

The success of designer David Derksen’s science lab–inspired 1L carafe for Tre in 2016 was so phenomenal the company has introduced 0.3L (large) and 0.2L (small) glassware, which just hit store shelves. They’ve got the same lab-beaker look on borosilicate glass. $90–$100 (sets of 4); industrywest.com

Courtesy Images From Top: Industry West; Canvas Home; J.L. Coquet; Schneid Studio; Dansk. Opposite Page, Courtesy Images From Top: Alessi; Iittala; Anna Weatherley; Lenox; Royal Copenhagen

Sylvie Coquet, daughter of J.L. Coquet’s founder Jean-Louis, has added a whimsical “bubble cup” to the firm’s Hemisphere line, first released in 1998. Both a cup and a bowl, its price varies depending on which of the collection’s finishes you choose. $95–$260; devinecorp.net The Unison collection by Germany’s Schneid Studio has many virtues—ecologically sensitive production, handcraftsmanship, stackable practicality, and beauty. But it also takes great pleasure in play, offering infinite sculptural tablescapes from its seven basic pieces and five colors. $40–$690; stillfried.com w

Vandvid, a hand-painted pattern from Danish brand Dansk, is named after a houseboat restaurant in Copenhagen. The release of the stoneware by designer Niels Refsgaard coincides with the 50th anniversary of his iconic Generations dinnerware that helped launch the brand. $17 (mug) to $50 (large bowl/plate); food52.com Spring 2019 187

PRIVATE SANCTUARY Kohler’s Kensho round and trough-shaped vessel sinks, which come in either white Biancone marble from Italy or gray Foussana limestone from Tunisia, sport etched designs inspired by natural kimono motifs such as waves, mountains, and bamboo. From $2,665; kohler.com Carlo Colombo’s Albume pedestal sinks for Antonio Lupi are a contrast between lightness and solidity.

Cristalmood, an airy new resin material available in an array of colors, is used for the round or conical sink, which sits atop dense Nero Marquinia or Bianco di Carrara marble. From $10,370; antoniolupi.it

Every inch of the new Elemental collection from Stone Forest can be tailored to your needs.

Combine gray limestone, Carrara marble, or honed black granite sinks (single or double) with legs in aged brass or polished nickel and various wooden vanities and storage units, also available in SherwinWilliams natural or paint finishes. $4,080 as shown; stoneforest.com

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Alessandro La Spada’s award-winning Kobol console for Visionnaire looks like an elegant furnishing more than a utilitarian bathroom fixture. The customizable design features a fluted wooden cabinet with concealed drawers under a marble top and glazed ceramic sinks available in white, platinum, or gold enamel. $45,150, as shown; visionnaire-home.com

The National Kitchen & Bath Association reports that soaking tubs are overtaking traditional tubs in American bathrooms. Enter the wooden, 155-gallon Aquatica True Ofuro Duo. The freestanding, Japanese-style bathtub for two people is available in six natural woods, including walnut and sapele mahogany. $49,000; aquaticausa.com

Courtesy Images Clockwise From Top: Kohler; Visionnaire; Aquatica; Stone Forest; Antonio Lupi. Opposite Page, Courtesy Images Clockwise From Top Right: Ex.t; THG Paris; Bassines; Axor; Boffi + Fantini

Turn your bathroom into a highly designed spa with soaking tubs, customizable consoles, and fixtures in rare materials from leather to limestone.

Shortly after Boffi + Fantini’s Aboutwater brand debuted Paik Sun Kim’s exquisitely minimal AK/25 collection of fixtures, the Korean designer passed away. The series will officially launch in North America later this year.

From $10,350 for a shower fixture; fantiniusa.com

Created by MUT Design, Arco by Ex.t combines a wash basin, a mirror, and taps into one fluid, curvaceous design for multi-functionality that is as unmistakable as it is minimalist cool. Available in matte black or satin brass.

From $5,875; shop.ex-t.com

For her new Montaigne collection for THG Paris, interior designer Stéphanie Coutas commissions Parisian artisans to carve France’s finest marble—Grand Antique d’Aubert—with sleek lines to achieve a singularly Gallic brand of fixtures for basins, showers, and baths. From $5,180; thg-paris.com

La Cornue branding wiz Xavier Dupuy has created a new company called Bassines and introduced the Narcis collection of metal sinks, available in brass, copper, stainless steel, and black, with either satin or glossy finish. Even the stoppers come in customizable finishes, including guilloche. From $1,655; bassines.com u

AXOR commemorates its 25th anniversary with the AXOR MyEdition sink and bathtub taps, available in chrome with either mirrored or black glass. The fixtures can be further customized with wood, marble, or leather plating and all fixtures integrate a new silky PowderRain spray.

From $800; axor-design.com Spring 2019 189

ARTIST PROFILE

AN EXPLOSION OF ART 190 Spring 2019

CAI GUO-QIANG harnesses the destructive power of gunpowder to create masterpieces bursting with color and imagery.

by Jason Edward Kaufman Spring 2019 191

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Partial view of Unmanned Nature, 2008, a 13 x 147foot gunpowder drawing commissioned by Hiroshima City Museum of Contemporary Art, installed at The Whitworth in Manchester in 2015. Opposite: Cai GuoQiang in his New York studio. Previous spread: Day and Night in Toledo, 2017, a gunpowder on canvas work inspired by El Greco and measuring more than 9 x 20 feet.

In 1986, with help from an acquaintance who worked in the Forbidden City, Cai emigrated to Japan where he remained until 1995. During this period he established his reputation with large-scale explosion events that led to numerous museum exhibitions in Japan and Europe. In 1995 he relocated to New York, where he continues to live and work.

His 15-second Transient Rainbow explosion over the East River sent 1,000 fireworks up in a great arch of thrilling color from Manhattan to Queens. With his pieces, both tangible works on paper or canvas and wondrous public displays, he is the giant traipsing the sky, inciting an awe capable of dissolving division.

Cai is part of the first generation of Chinese artists to gain prominence on the international stage, and unlike many who conformed to the prevailing taste of the Western market, he imbued his work with Asian concepts and materials. His ideas and iconography spring from Chinese mythology and history, Eastern philosophy and religions, Maoist revolutionary ideas, Chinese medicine, and feng shui. He also finds inspiration in Western thought, particularly astrophysics and art history, and mingles the perspectives of East and West.

Left: Jason Edward Kaufman; Steven Oakes/Alamy

F

or the 2008 Beijing Olympics, contemporary artist Cai Guo-Qiang directed visual effects at the opening and closing ceremonies. That first night, he orchestrated fireworks forming 29 giant footprints (one for each modern Olympiad) that marched in sequence for 9 miles, culminating at the National Stadium.

More than 1.5 billion television viewers witnessed the minutelong display.

Cai came up with the footprints idea two decades earlier, as part of his art series Project for Extraterrestrials. He imagined giants in the universe who could disregard the international borders invented by mankind and believed that to be seen from an extraterrestrial perspective, his work should be outdoors and big enough for extraterrestrials to actually see. “I don’t have specific ideas about any UFOs or alien beings,” he says, “but I believe in the unseen world that exists in the cosmos. I feel it is meaningful and necessary for mankind to be aware that there are eyes out there in the universe looking at us, just as it is for a country to constantly know that there are other countries out there looking at you.”

Born in 1957 in Quanzhou, a coastal city in Fujian Province in Southeastern China, young Cai spent afternoons sitting on a little stool behind the counter of his father’s staterun bookstore. His father had access to the kinds of books that could be read only by members of the Communist Party’s inner circles and Cai devoured them. From the latest developments in foreign literature—Japanese, American, and European writers—to a winner of the Nobel Prize in literature to books about existentialism and the absurd. “They exposed me not only to literature, but to perspectives on humanity and politics,” he says. “I read about hardship in the lives of peasants and workers, and also the romantic side of their lives and their freedom.”

His ghostly gunpowder drawings make use of a material invented in China, but often represent motifs familiar in the locale where he exhibits them: a eucalyptus tree in Queensland, a Botticelli in Florence, and an American eagle landing on a pine tree (symbolic of Chinese tradition) for the American Embassy in Beijing. Using gunpowder—the fuel of war—Cai channels beauty and reflection through his creative process.

The centerpiece of his 2008 retrospective at the Guggenheim Museum in New York was a stunning coup de théâtre of nine identical automobiles suspended from the roof of the rotunda, each bursting with rods of blinking colored LEDs. Positioned topsy-turvy in midair, the cars look like a time lapse of an exploding car, an image acutely resonant at a moment focused on the scourge of terrorism. A more tranquil piece made in 2013 for the Queensland Art Gallery of Modern Art positioned sculptures of 99 animals, predators and prey from around the world, drinking from the same watering hole, stand-ins for the artist’s vision of social harmony on earth.

Growing up, Cai studied social-realist painting and belonged to troupes that produced art and cultural

propaganda promoting Maoism. As a student at the Shanghai Theater Academy (1981–1985), he worked in stage design and turned from traditional Chinese art to Western forms, including oil painting. Intent on developing his own innovative approach, he experimented with new techniques and began making images with burning gunpowder. Early results were basically white and black. Then Cai added yellow, brown, a rusty orange, even blue. His compositions are more deliberate than you would guess from art made by an explosion. While some look abstract, others show mountains or a crocodile gobbling up the sun.

When creating a large work on paper or canvas, Cai begins by sketching. He adds segments of fuse and sprinkles granular explosives by hand, then lays down stencils, plants, or other items whose forms he wishes to record. He scatters more gunpowder to adjust the composition and assistants cover the entire setup with cardboard weighted down to contain the ensuing combustion. Once everyone is clear, Cai ignites a fuse, steps back, and seconds later a hissing eruption rolls down the length of the drawing. Fire boils along the edges, acrid smoke fills the air, and his team races in to tamp down flames. The w

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Remembrance, chapter two of Elegy, an explosion event on the Huangpu River near Shanghai’s Power Station of Art in 2014. Left: Footprints of History: Fireworks Project for the Opening Ceremony of the 2008 Beijing Olympic Games.

cardboard is removed and the artist surveys his creation—a ghostly image as if rendered on sandstone with the residue of the thrilling blast.

In the past several decades, Cai has been the subject of exhibitions at prestigious museums from the Guggenheim Bilbao (the museum’s first retrospective devoted to a Chinese artist) to the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York (his was the Met’s first solo show by a living Chinese artist). His newest works respond to masterpieces of Western art and have been presented in the Pushkin in Moscow, the Prado in Madrid, and the Uffizi in Florence. The 2017 Prado show included gunpowder drawings in homage to El Greco, one of his favorite artists. Last year’s Florence show featured a 15-minute spectacle of 50,000 fireworks, many of them flower-shaped and inspired by Botticelli’s La Primavera. For an exhibition at the National Archaeological Museum in Naples (through May 20), he conducted an explosion event in the amphitheater at Pompeii to echo the ancient city’s volcanic destruction.

Next on his busy calendar, Cai will act as curator as one of six artists chosen by the Guggenheim to select works for Artistic License: Six Takes on the Guggenheim Collection (May 24, 2019–Jan. 12, 2020).

For all his success, Cai is not a major presence in the art market. Large gunpowder drawings have topped $1 million on the rare occasions when they come up for auction, and multiple-drawing sets have sold for $9.5 million, but he eschews the gallery system, preferring to sell directly to museums and collectors. His base of operations is a multistory studio in a former school on the Lower East Side of Manhattan. He and his wife, Hong Hong Wu, also spend time with their two daughters on a farm in New Jersey, where he maintains a second studio and commissioned a house designed by Frank Gehry.

At the New York studio assisted by an interpreter (Cai has never mastered English), the artist spoke about gunpowder, growing up in Communist China, his belief in the unseen, and the complexities of creating large-scale explosion events. w

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Jason Edward Kaufman

Inopportune: Stage One, 2004, nine automobiles bursting with colored LED rods evoke a stop-action car bombing suspended within the Guggenheim Museum in New York in 2008.

Do you believe extraterrestrials are watching us?

We know that 95 percent of the universe is accounted for by dark energy and dark matter. For art and for humanity, and for my own so-called politics, this is a meaningful thing.

Why did you want to become an artist?

Because art seemed to be the only thing that I was extremely good at in my youth. I was not interested in anything else. I also played the violin, wrote poetry, and practiced kung fu martial arts. Every day after I woke up I would go run on the streets that surround the city. Back from that run I would clean myself with well water and then start reading. Later I would play the violin and then paint and draw, and after lunch I would write or paint more. At dusk I would lift weights, and at night I would head out with friends and go to the school plaza to practice kung fu. I am not too different from what I was in my youth.

I rarely cook or do any laundry or buy anything from the stores, and I still keep pet fish at home. My wife has known me for over 40 years—we met when she was 17—and she can attest to the fact that I haven’t changed much.

Did your parents think you should pursue a different career?

I always occupied myself with enjoyable things to do, so I suppose they thought that I was very unique and they didn’t need to worry too much about me. They let me have a huge studio in our house. My parents and siblings made do with sleeping in several small rooms while I took up two large rooms to make a big studio.

How did you cultivate your voice as an artist under the authoritarian control of the Chinese state?

Many of my artist peers, including Xu Bing, must have looked for a free and unique voice in that society. I was aware that lots of artists—for example, the members of The Stars Art Group—were in pursuit of freedom in society. But I was pursuing personal

freedom because since my childhood I always believed that only when individuals can achieve their freedom can society achieve real freedom.

Did that position influence your decision to make art with a destructive material devised for war?

I already had been thinking a lot about creation and destruction— Mao’s slogan, “No destruction, no construction.” I was using fire to burn my oil paintings, trying to be experimental, but this was still exerting control. I was thinking that the firecrackers that I was surrounded with in my hometown could be a very handy medium for me.

Was your use of gunpowder influenced by the exploration of new materials by contemporary artists in the West and in Japan?

In China I wasn’t influenced by them, but after arriving in Japan I had access to modern art. Japanese artists were always debating whether we should be more insistent on our Eastern traditions—Asian philosophy, calligraphy, and even the art of flowers—or more closely follow Dadaism and Pop art from the West.

They were aware that Conceptual art was emerging in California, but they were concerned that the past century of development in Japan had simply been the result of Westernization.

They were oscillating between East and West, but I was considering a larger scale that could incorporate both, and more importantly surpass the dual relationship. That is when I started my series Projects for Extraterrestrials.

One work sought to realize a ladder of flame reaching into the firmament. After several failed attempts starting in the 1990s, I finally realized the vision in 2015, igniting a 1,650-foot rope ladder wrapped with fuse that blazed for several minutes while being held up by a balloon. [Sky Ladder was recorded in a feature-length biopic by director Kevin MacDonald.] Another time, I extended the Great Wall of China for 6 miles with a conjoined burning fuse.

For centuries the wall defined the northwestern limits of the empire and

I extended it into the Gobi Desert, resuming the nationalist campaign and exposing its futility.

Your father was a devoted Maoist.

How did he influence your thinking?

My father was a Communist Party member, and he was very cautious and very loyal. On special Buddhist occasions, like when we commemorated my deceased grandfather, my grandmother and my mother would prepare food offerings.

My father would not participate in those rituals and never ate those offerings because he was a firm believer in the Party. But at the same time, he nurtured me to be sensitive to politics. As a child, I often drew portraits of Chairman Mao, and my father would tell me, “Cai, you should not draw portraits of Chairman Mao like this. It will be a problem.” I would say, “It’s a very good portrait, just like Chairman Mao,” but he explained, “You cannot see the difference, but it is not like Chairman Mao and you may get caught.”

Did your father allow you to read the books in his state-controlled shop?

Yes. For the books that could be read only by members of the Party’s inner circles, he was supposed to deliver them to the mayor’s office, but before delivering them he would bring them home. He made covers with newspaper or butcher paper to help preserve the books in case I might tarnish them. And I had to finish reading them within a day or two before he delivered them to the mayor, so I had to read fast.

He was a very cautious person, but what he did opened a window for me to another world. I also eavesdropped on radio stations of the Soviet Union and the so-called “enemies” including Voice of America, and stations in Taiwan, Central Europe, and even Japan. I can still vividly remember the beautiful voice of the Taiwanese radio hostess. I had just a small radio and had to very patiently search for that channel because there was a lot of disruption. Less than a kilometer from my house were huge signal towers intended to disrupt the signals from our “enemy countries.” w

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What else do you recall from that period?

My father had a bicycle to deliver the books. A bicycle was a luxury good in my hometown during my childhood.

He pulled a book cart behind the bicycle and I sometimes rode on it.

I remember on a long ride seeing a huge relief of Chairman Mao’s head that the Chinese military had begun carving into the side of a mountain

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in the outskirts of Quanzhou. They began in 1967 and several soldiers fell and died before the project was halted. They realized that birds were defecating on the carving—and that was not a good thing for Chairman Mao!—and the mountain was part of a military base that had been excavated to build missile silos. The carving served as a target for Taiwan to attack, so they left it unfinished. But

the shallow carving still remains on the cliff, and in the sunshine you can clearly see the head of Chairman Mao. In a sense, it is a shadow of history.

That carving of Chairman Mao was like land art, and the experience allowed me to see the appeal of a large-scale artwork installation. Two years ago, I had my solo exhibition at the Pushkin Museum in Moscow, marking the centennial of the

Courtesy Cai Guo-Qiang

City of Flowers in the Sky, an explosion event at Piazzale Michelangelo overlooking the city of Florence in November 2018.

Opposite: Study for Uffizi: Flora No. 1, 2018, a gunpowder drawing on canvas measuring more than 9 x 4 feet based on Botticelli’s La Primavera, made for the artist’s 2018 solo exhibition at the Uffizi Galleries, Florence.

a riot on the streets, and people would shout that we are criticizing this or that person. In the beginning he was one of those who criticized others.

The staff in the bookstore had been revolutionary leaders in Shandong and Shanxi, and he had to travel to those cities to make sure they really had a clean background. But they were later exonerated and my father was afraid that now they would seek revenge.

It was a very complicated political conflict between different factions. When he was targeted he had to burn his collection of books. He was afraid that smoke coming out of the chimney would attract suspicion during the day, so he burned the books overnight. I helped tear them up. It was not easy to burn whole books. Simply throwing them into the fire took a very long time.

Why do you think he became a target?

My father always tried to be very low-key and modest and actively participated in the revolution. But he was born with a problematic background. His grandfather was a gunsmith who used to manufacture guns for the Communist Party, the National Party, and also the mafias.

Just after the founding of the People’s Republic in 1949, the Communist Party sentenced one of his sons to death and another was killed in secrecy by the Party. My father never told me about that part of the family history, but I read about it on a form that Party members had to fill out detailing their background and their ancestors. When I saw that my father mentioned that two of his uncles were killed, it was very scary.

The other side of my family was from a typical lower class, which was deemed at the time very favorable. My grandmother was very self-confident and her strong character and spiritual beliefs impressed me. She was a Buddhist, a Taoist, and at one point believed in Christianity, as well. I share her belief and her longing for the unseen world, a concept that relates to feng shui and qi, the invisible energy of the universe and the energy of your own body. Gunpowder, the medium that I use, is related to this context. It activates an unseen energy, and every time you use it you face your own fate. I don’t mean I might be blown up, but using gunpowder makes it hard to anticipate the result of your work, so something is left to fate. My uses of gunpowder are related to my values about life.

Jason Edward Kaufman

Russian Revolution. Before the exhibition I climbed up the mountain and covered the carving with a 164- by 105-foot tarpaulin canvas, and using ink I made a rubbing. Through that act I was tracing my memory of childhood, my father, and of socialist China and Chairman Mao. Your father was a Party loyalist, but also an artist and book collector. It must have been painful when he became a target of the Red Guard during the Cultural Revolution.

He was very afraid. During the day you could often hear the strike of the gong, which meant there was a procession,

What are your latest developments in terms of technique?

I have been creating new work by igniting blue gunpowder on a mirror. At first, no matter how much gunpowder I sprinkled on the surface, it wouldn’t explode. Usually I can ignite the gunpowder with only an incense stick, but even with a blowtorch it wouldn’t explode. It would just sizzle.

Eventually I decided to place another glass on top of the mirror covering the blue gunpowder, letting the two sheets press against each other. This resulted in a huge explosion. It was a completely surprising result. Gunpowder is quite a character. w

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200 Spring 2019

Clockwise from top left: Heaven Complex No. 1, 2017, gunpowder on canvas; Crocodile and Sun, 2007, gunpowder on paper mounted on wood as six-panel screen measuring more than 7 x 15 feet; Purple Poppy No.1, 2018, gunpowder on canvas, 30 x 30 inches; proposal for Heritage, a 2013 installation of 99 life-sized replicas of animals, sand, water, and drip mechanism created for the Gallery of Modern Art in Brisbane.

Sometimes I also rely on scientists outside the company to realize particularly challenging issues. But the day of the realization of the explosion event, generally I just press a button.

Can you simply tell them you want a red letter “A” at a particular height, or hand them a drawing of colorful flowers and have them set up

fireworks to create it?

They can realize about 70 percent of my desired effects. When I first draw my vision for the project, I have already considered realistically their capacity, but still 30 percent of my requests cannot be realized.

They always do many tests in the countryside and send me videos and I give them feedback to adjust. Often

Courtesy Cai Guo-Qiang

You have organized massive explosion events all over the world.

The early ones were mostly clouds of black smoke, but now you create in color: footprints, flowers, letters, even rainbows. How have you refined your technique?

To create anything like that in a public space, you face problems like safety and the security of the public and the city. You need to get a permit and I am not a licensed professional for using gunpowder. I need to first identify a company with a pyrotechnical license who can get the permit for me and provide the materials and import fireworks. These various partners also help me set up the products on site, and operate the computer system, strictly according to my design. Most of the time the companies already have their own system, but sometimes they will develop one just to realize my project.

They might have to customize the system to generate a faster speed of explosions, or invent products that have computer chips inserted to control the exact location and timing of the explosions in the sky. For celebratory fireworks they wouldn’t need precise location and timing controls, but I arrange the shells to form a shape. Each shell has to know the millisecond it explodes in order to form, say, a letter “A” in the sky.

in the beginning they tell me that what I want is not possible, and I tell them it is feasible and draw sketches to show how it can be done. For example, when I ask them to find a way to explode a straight vertical line, they always told me they could only form a horizontal line. I explained that with computer technology you could realize a line from ground to sky. That technology has helped them realize really interesting fireworks. It has made some companies a fortune in Saudi Arabia and other rich countries where they create events or the royals.

The explosion events are ephemeral and they take place only once. You can record them in a film or drawing, but that is not the same as the actual event. Do you have documentation sufficient to re-create them, and would you allow repeat performances?

In the beginning I did not care that much about documentation of these projects because I thought of them as mostly for extraterrestrials. Let’s just allow the light to travel into the universe! As I received more and more support and was hosted by more institutions, many people contributed to the realization of the sky projects, and naturally we ended up having a lot of documentation, from film to photographs and coverage by media.

I would say that now the projects are well documented.

Would you allow them to be replicated, even if you are no longer alive?

Yes, of course, if they want to.

The night that the giant footprints appeared above the city of Beijing, I turned part of a national ceremony into a platform for my own artwork.

It was an artwork for the country, and also an artwork for myself. They could definitely reproduce the exploded footprints or Sky Ladder. They could reproduce Sky Ladder to celebrate my 100th birthday, just as I did for my 100-year-old grandmother. As long as they feel it is a worthy and interesting thing to do. u

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REAL ESTATE

LIVING WELL

WITH WELLNESS FIRST AND FOREMOST ON EVERYONE’S MINDS THESE DAYS, RESIDENTIAL SITES ARE DISTINGUISHING THEMSELVES BY CATERING TO WHOLE HEALTH—BODY, MIND, AND SOUL. by Jorge S. Arango

M

anhattan-based architecture firm CookFox has been on the forefront of environmentally responsible buildings since its founding in 2003, becoming the first to design three LEED Platinum–certified projects in New York City. The firm’s Lucida apartment building was the first residence on the Upper East Side to achieve LEED certification. Built with nontoxic, ecologically responsible materials and energy-efficient systems, the residential site also offers a spa, quiet rooms, and filtered air pumped throughout. It was one of the earliest buildings to respond to “an understanding that [constructing with] health awareness improves the lives of residents,” says CookFox senior associate Luca Baraldo. “Material science has improved, showing that healthier materials and people’s connection to nature promote stress reduction.”

A report last year by the Global Wellness Institute found that $4.2 trillion is spent on wellness each year (everything from vitamins and sleep apps to athletic wear and workout classes). The wellness lifestyle real estate sector represented $134 billion in 2017 and various movements—including New Urbanism, the biophilic hypothesis, spiritually rooted design, and green and sustainable building—have converged, spawning a host of new guidelines and certifications. The International WELL Building Institute upholds the WELL Community Standard and WELL v2 paradigm to support and advance human health through the built environment. The International Living Future Institute has developed a regenerative performance standard called the Living Building Challenge to ensure built spaces give more resources than they take.

The emergence of “agrihoods” includes the 1,200-acre Serenbe in Chattahoochee Hills, Georgia. An early adopter of on-site organic farming as integral to the community, “Serenbe is built on the biophilic model that connects people with nature and each other,” says its founder and CEO Steve Nygren. “By preserving more than 70 percent of the natural green space and building in dense, walkable clusters, we see incredible wellness outcomes.”

New York–based developer David Bistricer believes wellness amenities in real estate will surpass the fitness craze that fed earlier luxury-building must-haves like gyms and pools. “People need people,” he says of the holistic view that includes the importance of sociability. Gathering areas and green spaces become important.

In addition to a MNDFL-brand meditation studio, Bistricer’s four-building Gramercy Square project is fully loaded with landscaped private gardens, walking paths, and a rooftop terrace with a kitchen and outdoor lounges. “All these certification programs evolve and become stricter, providing community planners and municipalities a way to set codes,” notes CookFox’s Baraldo. “What was the original LEED Platinum standard for energy efficiency is now a code requirement in New York.”

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HAUTE HAMMAM

The developers pulled out the big design guns for high-rise 111 Murray Street, commissioning architect David Rockwell to create public spaces and the sprawling amenities areas, and architect David Mann for the residences surrounded by Tribeca’s vibrant art and culture scene. In the show-stopping Turkish hammam—an of-the-moment amenity popping up in new, wellness-focused buildings— book-matched marble slabs surround heated plinths that seem to levitate above recessed bases. Chrome faucets are suspended above carved marble sinks for cooling off when the room gets too hot.

111 Murray Street, New York

DEVELOPERS: Fisher Brothers; Witkoff; New Valley PRICE RANGE: 1-bedrooms from $2.5 million to full-floor penthouses for $40 million DELIVERY: Now WELLNESS AMENITIES: 20,000 square feet of amenity space that includes a fitness center, 75-foot pool with hot tub, hammam, spa with private treatment rooms, meditation area, movement studio, and Drybar salon; filtered fresh air and reverse osmosis water filtration (penthouse only).

111murray.com

Amrit Ocean Resort & Residences Palm Beach, Florida

DEVELOPER: Creative Choice Group PRICE RANGE: 2-bedroom residences from $800,000 to $4 million DELIVERY: Late 2019 WELLNESS AMENITIES: Spa with hammam and treatment rooms; heat and hydrotherapy spa gardens with various hot and cold pools, sauna,

The spa pools at Amrit Ocean Resort & Residences

Courtesy Images From Top: 111 Murray; Amrit Ocean Resort & Residences. Opposite Page, Courtesy Images From Top: Serenbe Mado Hamlet/Dave Vitkus; Missoni Bala.

The hammam at 111 Murray Street

The yoga room and outdoor meditation labyrinth at Serenbe Mado Hamlet

Kneipp walk, and salt room; demonstration kitchen for healthy cooking classes; Wellness Zone with complimentary practitioners (acupuncture, naturopaths, osteopaths); Infusion Zone for vitamin supplements administered by a registered nurse. amritocean.com

UTOPIAN IDEALS

Master-planned community Serenbe is the brainchild of Steve Nygren, whose culinary background (he owned more than 35 beloved restaurants in Atlanta

and the Southeast) explains its farm-to-table ethos. Their comprehensive vision, called “a Sonoma for the New South” by The New York Times, is a holistic approach to healthy living, where all homes are Earthcraft-certified (a Southeastern green/healthy standard); waste water is treated on-site with a natural filtration system; streams run throughout the community; 15 miles of nature trails encourage residents to get outdoors and exercise; lawns are discouraged in favor of organic and medicinal plant

landscaping; an organic farm supplies various eateries with ingredients; and a dark-skies initiative requires downlighting so you can see the stars. Wilderness surrounds each community cluster—the latest being Mado Hamlet, where 87 houses are under construction or completed and 80 more will come online this year. Expansion begins soon on another 170 homes that will become available this fall.

Serenbe Mado Hamlet,

Chattahoochee Hills, Georgia

DEVELOPER: Serenbe Development PRICE RANGE: 1-bedrooms from $292,000 to $5 million custom homes DELIVERY: Fall 2019 WELLNESS AMENITIES: Goat yoga and aerial yoga; stone labyrinth; meditation room; gym with indoor cycling studio and Peloton bikes; spa with infrared sauna; swim club with multiple pools, including a heated multilane lap pool; 15 miles of nature trails for forest bathing, running, hiking, mountain biking, and horseback riding. serenbe.com

COLOR ME HEALTHY

The first branded resort and residences from the worldrenowned Italian fashion and design house Missoni partnered with Vladislav Doronin (CEO of both real estate development firm OKO Group and hospitality brand Aman) to create an all-inone wellness-focused experience.

Aman, of course, is famous for its resort spas, and Doronin pulled out all the stops. “Health and wellness have become increasingly significant as lifespans increase,” he says. “Globally, we are becoming more concerned with living an integrated, healthy lifestyle to improve the quality of our lives.” There are wellness amenities here for all ages, from multiple kids’ indoor and outdoor play areas to four elevated pools and a whirlpool spa. The 57-story building’s interiors, by Australian designer Paris Forino, pick up on Missoni’s love of color—perfect for the bay-front locale.

Missoni Baia, Miami

A treatment room at Missoni Baia

DEVELOPER: OKO Group PRICE RANGE: 1-bedrooms from $500,000 to 4-bedrooms for $4.3 million DELIVERY: First half 2021 WELLNESS AMENITIES: 1,700-square-foot wellness area includes gym; private yoga studio; private training room; residentsonly spa with sauna, steam, and treatment rooms; various pools and whirlpool spa; hair and nail salon; elevated tennis court; pet spa. missonibaia.com w Spring 2019 203

HEALTHIER HOMES Gramercy Square, New York DEVELOPERS: Chetrit Group; Clipper Equity PRICE RANGE: Studios from $1.215 million to 4-bedrooms for $5.53 million DELIVERY: Now WELLNESS AMENITIES: 20,000-square-foot landscaped garden space; 18,000-square-foot La Palestra private amenities club that includes a pool, MNDFL-branded meditation room, beauty bar, twolevel fitness center, and circadian rhythm lighting. gramercysquare.com

550 Vanderbilt, Brooklyn, New York DEVELOPER: Greenland Forest City Partners PRICE RANGE: 2-bedrooms from $1.45 million to 4-bedrooms for $7.715 million DELIVERY: Now WELLNESS AMENITIES: Designed by pioneering wellness architecture firm CookFox; LEED Silver building standard; The Wright Fit fitness center; yoga, Pilates, and personal training studios; roof gardens with resident planting beds; filtered fresh air; 13,818 square feet of dedicated park space. 550vanderbilt.com Eighty Seven Park, Miami, Florida DEVELOPERS: Terra; Bizzi & Partners Development; New Valley; Pacific Eagle PRICE RANGE: 1-bedrooms from $2.15 million to 5-bedrooms for $13.9 million; two-story penthouse for $68 million DELIVERY: Fall 2019 WELLNESS AMENITIES: Architecture

by Renzo Piano Building Workshop; interior design by RDAI; fitness center, spa, Turkish hammam, fulltime botanist to maintain walking gardens; 35-acre adjacent park;

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The hammam at 49 Chambers The meditation room at Gramercy Square

Yoga and meditation deck at Eighty Seven Park

Austin Proper Residences fitness center

private residents’ garden; Fugo juice bar; private beach access. eightysevenpark.com Austin Proper Residences, Austin, Texas DEVELOPER: The KOR Group PRICE RANGE: 1-bedrooms from $747,000 to 5-bedroom duplex penthouse for $8.4 million DELIVERY: Summer 2019 WELLNESS AMENITIES: Spa with five treatment rooms and steam rooms; fitness center with Peloton bicycles; two rooftop pools; three restaurants. properhotel.com 49 Chambers, New York DEVELOPER: Chetrit Group PRICE RANGE: 1-bedrooms from $1.65 million to 3-bedroom penthouses for $7.95 million DELIVERY: Now WELLNESS AMENITIES: Hammam, pool, steam room, sauna, fitness center, and yoga/dance studio.

49chambers.com The Collective, Manteca, California DEVELOPER: Trumark Communities PRICE RANGE: Estimated from $400,000 DELIVERY: Fall 2019 WELLNESS AMENITIES: WELLcertified clubhouse spin studio; yoga and meditation studio; spa; a roster of health and wellness enrichment programs; filtered air circulation; lighting systems that enhance alertness and also promote sound sleep. thecollectivemanteca.com u

Courtesy Images From Top: 49 Chambers; Gramercy Square; Eighty Seven Park; Austin Proper Residences.

252 East 57th Street, New York DEVELOPERS: World Wide Group; Rose Associates PRICE RANGE: Only one 65th-floor, 6-bedroom penthouse left for $29.75 million DELIVERY: Now WELLNESS AMENITIES: Daniel Romualdez–designed spa with a state-of-the art hydrotherapy circuit that includes sauna, steam, ice, relaxation, and treatment rooms; fitness center with yoga and Pilates studios. 252e57.com

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•What’s NEXT•

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Restaurants

Top Chef season 12 winner Mei Lin opens her first restaurant, Nightshade (above), in Los Angeles’ Arts District.

The Cal-Asian menu offers authentic and seriously spicy best sellers like pork and tofu lasagna (go early before it sells out) and a lip-tingling Szechuan hot quail. nightshadela.com

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On Edinburgh’s bohemian Broughton Street, Chef Scott Smith opened Fhior to showcase updated Scottish classics. Locals rave about the malted barley bread (baked on site and served with a tangy aged butter) as well as the pan-fried halibut with saltmarsh herbs and a gamey partridge breast on a fragrant bed of spruce and wild garlic.

Four- or seven-course tasting menu. fhior.com

206 Spring 2019

King’s Social House (in collaboration with British chef and restaurateur Jason Atherton, below) opened last winter in Badrutt’s Palace Hotel in St. Mortiz. A shared-plates menu takes its cue from Switzerland’s farmhouse foods: woodland mushrooms, whole roasted fish, and woodfired meats. The truffle-and-Parmesan fries are addictive. As the evening progresses, the space is transformed into a high-energy nightclub. badruttspalace.com

Chef Jean Imbert (owner of three restaurants in Paris) debuts Encore, a wildly creative French concept in New York’s Meatpacking District. Try the deconstructed lobster roll, fluke tartar with ponzu sauce, or a clever riff on avocado toast (starring a perfectly poached egg). encorenyc.com Rooster, Frédéric Duca’s latest, offers a modern take on traditional Parisian bistro fare but informed by the chef ’s Marseillaise childhood. The small, seasonal menu could include lamb-artichokeanchovy casserole or sautéed squid with chorizo. The décor is inviting but minimal—unadorned walls, honey-colored pine tables, and mid-century chairs. rooster-restaurant.com

A summery oasis, The Petersham, in London’s Covent Garden theater district, delivers a hyper-seasonal menu culled from the fruits of sister company Petersham Nurseries in Richmond (above). Toast with a rhubarb Bellini before artichokes with sage and lemon or roast venison with parsnips, braised red cabbage, and burnt onion. For dessert: lemon tart paired with a fruity wine from Italy’s Venato. petershamnurseries.com

The menu at oh-so-cool Edern (Paris) ranges from creamy burrata and flights of caviar to a seriously addictive marinated Black Angus beef prepared in an open kitchen. For a nightcap, find a secret bar and cigar lounge in the cellar where a DJ spins contemporary dance music all night. edern-restaurant.com

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Chefs Laura and Sayat Ozyilmaz, a wife-and-husband team with Michelin pedigree, launch Noosh (bottom right).

The San Francisco restaurant pays homage to the culinary heritage of the eastern Mediterranean. Regulars swear by the Late-Night Istanbul Dirty Burger topped with lamb bacon and the Greek Po’Boy Stuffed Pita with smoked tzatziki.

To drink: handpicked teas, Old World wines, and herb-infused cocktails.

2001fillmore.com

A vegan sushi bar lands in San Diego.

NoW Sushi is the brainchild of ecoactivists Monica Berki and Lindsi DeMik, who also own NoW Cafe, the adjacent vegan sandwich and smoothie shop.

Specialties include a caterpillar roll made with shiitake mushroom “eel” and crunchy California rolls made with mock crab. noworriesmovement.org

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The Silver Bough (inside Santa Barbara’s historic Montecito Inn) launched in January—with only eight seats and a prix fixe $550 price tag. First, Champagne in the lobby. Then, a multicourse dinner of, perhaps, whipped Siberian caviar, aged New Zealand venison, and Japanese geoduck. The standout: Kobe rib-eye accompanied by white truffles, black truffles, and lobster claws. Linger after dinner for pours of cognac. Dinner tickets (sold a month in advance) are wine-andspirits inclusive. silverboughmontecito.com

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Courtesy Images From Top: Deep Dive/Haris Kenjar; Carna; The Fly. Opposite Page Courtesy Images Clockwise From Top: Nightshade/Wonho Lee; King’s Social House; Noosh/Audrey Ma; The Petersham/Paul Craig.

“Part Texas barbecue and part Alabama church picnic” is how chef-owner David Bancroft describes Bow & Arrow, his fast-casual restaurant in Auburn, Alabama.

Tender brisket and beef-back ribs share the plate with collard greens, creamed corn, and butter beans. Pecan pie and brownies for dessert. bowandarrowbbq.com

Deep Dive, Seattle Moody and atmospheric with an under-the-sea vibe (above). A 20-page list of wines and cocktails includes several non-alcoholic options. From the serious snack menu, choose the extravagant ($18) hazelnutsmoked beef hot dog topped with pickled jalapeños, red onions, cream cheese, and pink salmon caviar. Just 30 seats. No reservations. deepdiveseattle.com

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The Fly, Brooklyn, New York A global wine list and the best rotisserie chicken in New York, the new 60-seat wine bar (below) has a late-night feel. From the owners of the highly acclaimed Hart’s in Bed-Stuy and Cervo’s on the Lower East Side. Seven tables in the back can be removed for dancing. theflybrooklyn.com w

Parker’s Tavern, Cambridge, England Patrons at the bar are a mix of tweedy academics, River Cam punters, and American expats. Drink: The Sixth Man (named after the Cambridge-based Soviet spy ring). Eat: a modern take on grandma’s shepherd’s pie. Inside the historic University Arms (now an Autograph Collection hotel). universityarms.com

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The Hyde, Chicago Patrons use a password (posted on the bar’s Instagram page), enter through the alley, and are transported back to the South Side in the ’30s. An impressive selection of cognacs to be sipped or mixed into classics cocktails like Sazerac and Hurricane. thehyderoom.com

The Library, Detroit The venerable Detroit Club debuts a cocktail lounge that’s becoming the after-work place for the young pinstripe set. Classic Manhattans and Old-Fashioneds share the menu with exotic tequilas and herb-infused gins. Small plates like smoked octopus or bacon-chive deviled eggs. Open to non-members. thedetroitclub.com La Jambe, Washington, D.C. A very French wine bar with a long list of wines by the bottle and by the glass. Go with friends and order the easy-drinking, well-priced ($92) magnum of Moment de Plaisir 2017 rosé. To eat? Crêpes. Or duck confit. Also, an excellent multi-cheese fondue. lajambedc.com

Raised by Wolves, San Diego, California Part bottle shop, part bar with opulent Paris bordello décor and an 18-page drinks list. From classics like Pimm’s Cup to an outrageous spiked Orange Julius and the Vintage Highlander made with 1940s Catto Scotch whisky and 1960s Benedictine ($105). raisedxwolves.com

Celebrated Italian butcher Dario Cecchini brings his signature dishes to Carna steakhouse (above), his first restaurant outside Italy. The elegant Baha Mar location (Nassau, the Bahamas) features steaks that are dry-rubbed with Cecchini’s signature Chianti-infused salt, cooked over charcoal, and topped with a generous shaving of white Alba (thousand-dollar-apound) truffles. sbe.com Chef Thomas Keller’s much-anticipated outpost in New York City’s Hudson Yards is a throwback to the 1950s Mad Men era.

A time, he says, when the United States was the most glamorous country in the world and “continental cuisine” was the fanciest food in America. Tak Room serves riffs on traditional Beef Wellington, chicken Kiev, and baked Alaska. takroomnyc.com

Bars

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Spring 2019 207

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and New York) opens a pop-up shop in April at Bergdorf Goodman to sell her hand-embroidered linens and Wedgewood (the whimsical, folk-arty Sailor’s Farewell features sailing ships, sea creatures, and merfolk). kitkemp.com

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Peruse vintage cufflinks—some dating back to the 19th century, but mostly from the Rat Pack 1950s-era—at The Missing Link, a New York City shop with more than 20,000 pairs to choose from. From $65. missinglinknyc.com Handmade lighters for well-chosen cigars.

Le Grand S.T. Dupont lighters are made in France and available in five eye-catching finishes. From $1,065. st-dupont.com

English designers understand “charming” better than anyone. Kit Kemp (ownerdesigner of Firmdale Hotels in London

208 Spring 2019

Horticultural ideas sourced from a variety of Relais & Châteaux properties. Beautiful photography and how-to sidebars about setting festively floral tables, garnishing with edible flowers, and cooking with housegrown herbs. The Art of the Garden.

Rizzoli, $55

Have a piece of vintage David Hicks velvet or a bit of floral damask your grandmother commissioned from Sister Parish? Artemis Design Company will make textile treasures into bespoke slippers or slides. artemisdesignco.com

The spring and summer jewelry collection from Lalique takes its cue from Art Deco’s geometric lines. Highlights: a black-resinand-crystal Aréthuse bracelet ($245) from 1935 Réne Lalique drawings; an alwayschic cabochon ring ($160) in a new deep green color for spring. lalique.com

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Some of the greatest treasures of Buddhist culture are hidden in monasteries atop soaring mountains. Thomas Laird traveled to the far-flung corners of Tibet to photograph spectacular murals. The result: a sumo-sized publication, Murals of Tibet, limited to an edition of 998 copies, each signed by His Holiness the 14th Dalai Lama and distributed with a bookstand designed

by Pritzker Prize–winning architect Shigeru Ban. Taschen, $12,000 Tastemaker Margot Shaw presents top designers—like Charlotte Moss and Bunny Williams—at home and in their elegant gardens. This gorgeously photographed book concludes with a primer on such topics as extending the life of fresh flowers and creating a table runner of colorful blooms.

Living Floral. Rizzoli, $45

Find amazingly realistic paper flowers— creamy pink roses, purple-flecked orchids, crimson geraniums—for exquisite, everlasting bouquets or … have an entire wedding styled by renowned floral diva Livia Cetti. The Green Vase. thegreenvase.com

Graanmarkt 13—a concept store (above), restaurant, and luxe apartment for rent in Antwerp—opens a pop-up (starting March 20) at Barneys New York with a wildly creative veggie-centric menu.

Rose, lavender, and lilac candles and room fragrances by revered perfumer Lyn Harris are also available. barneys.com

Books

Christian Liaigre designs south-of-France villas and chic yachts. His new four-floor, 8,612-square-foot showroom (below) at 77 Faubourg Saint-Honoré in Paris looks like a grand hôtel particulier. Embossed leathers. Hand-painted linens. Jewel-tone accessories. Open to the trade and the public. liaigre.com/77-faubourg-saint-honore

An exquisite illuminated manuscript that was, back in the 16th century, the go-to reference for sailors and explorers. Nautical charts, brilliant drawings, and star maps fill 31 folios beautifully reproduced. Jacques Devaulx. Nautical Works. Taschen, $150 In the kitchen of his two-Michelin-star restaurant Fäviken Magasinet, Magnus Nilsson wrote this 450-recipe Nordic Baking Book (below). Magasinet did his own food photography; his wife, Tove, developed most —I.R. of the recipes. Phaidon, $50 u

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Courtesy Images Clockwise From Top Left: Graanmarkt 13/Frederik Vercruysse; Taschen; Phaidon; Christian Liaigre

Shop

RARE FORM

THE LEXUS LS 500. LIVE IN THE NEW. We didn’t merely try something different. We crafted an entirely original experience. With accents like Kiriko glass, designed by hand then delicately etched with thousands of cuts to catch the eye and transform in the light. A 416-horsepower1 twin-turbo engine paired with a 10-speed Direct-Shift automatic transmission takes you from 0 to 60 in just 4.6 seconds.1,2 All this is complemented by cutting-edge technology with one of the largest Head-Up Displays in the industry.3 The Lexus LS 500 isn’t simply unique. It redefines what a flagship luxury sedan can be.

lexus.com/LS | #LexusLS

Options shown. 1. Ratings achieved using the required premium unleaded gasoline with an octane rating of 91 or higher. If premium fuel is not used, performance will decrease. 2. 2019 LS vs. 2018/2019 competitors. Information from manufacturers’ websites as of 5/21/2018. 3. Performance figures are for comparison only and were obtained with prototype vehicles by professional drivers using special safety equipment and procedures. Do not attempt. ©2018 Lexus