IN SPRING FASHION
old detroit
PICS FROM OUR 313 DAY TOUR
investing in art SOUND MONEY MOVE?
autism awareness
TIPS AND RESOURCES FOR FAMILIES
APRIL 2021
INSIDE 10 14 16
Online at BLACdetroit.com Letter from the editor Contributors
FEATURES 30
MONEY MOVES Exploring art as an investment
36
STYLE FOR ALL A look at the fashion industry’s move toward inclusion
40
FRESHENING UP Getting back to life in spring fashion
DEPARTMENTS 18
DISCOVER Tips for parents of children with autism, a Red Bull Arts exhibition recalls dancehall, a STEM-focused kit teaches kids to code at home, plus more
26
APPRAISED Fiber artist Deja Milany creates cornrowed art
28
IN STYLE Finding our light in bright hues and fun florals
48
ACCESS Smelling the roses at botanical and community gardens
50
SEEN Snaps from classic Detroit spots captured on 313 Day
SPONSORED
26
12
DRIVING COMMUNITY: FORD MOTOR COMPANY FUND Bryan Lewis, executive director, EcoWorks
23
ASK THE EXPERT: HEALTH ADVICE FROM ASCENSION MICHIGAN How do uterine fibroids affect reproductive health?
ON THE COVER Model Bria Anderson Photo by Boswell Hardwick Styled by Marv Neal Two-piece top and pants: Siana Treece Atelier Belt (worn as bracelet) and earrings: PJazz Collections Boutique II
BLACdetroit.com
Online in April Visit BLACdetroit.com for web exclusives and to stay up on what’s happening in Black Detroit
BLACK LIFE ARTS & CULTURE
20 We've Got Swag
Rock a BLAC T-shirt or hoodie and remind everyone everywhere that you honor Black Life, Arts and Culture.
Happy Earth Day
Environmental groups that could use your time and attention.
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SEEN Galleries
Money Matters
Check out the full digital gallery. Did we spot you?
Financial advice from a local expert.
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10 BLAC • APRIL 2021 • BLACdetroit.com
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@BLACdetroitMag
A year-long series featuring Detroiters who are driving positive change in their communities.
Driving Community Sponsored by Ford Motor Company Fund
Bryan Lewis, Executive Director, EcoWorks This Southfielder with a lifelong commitment to community leads a nonprofit that’s committed to environmental justice, and to equitable, sustainable solutions.
T he effects of climate change have the potential to burden all of humanity, but, as with most causes of concern, the poor and people of color are most vulnerable. EcoWorks is a Detroitbased nonprofit that operates at the intersection of community development and sustainability to ensure that, as we talk solutions, inclusion and equity are part of the conversation. The organization provides education, resources and economic opportunity to individuals 12 BLAC • APRIL 2021 • BLACdetroit.com
and entities, while also bringing people together in an effort to foster a better understanding around what a sustainable future looks like. “It’s important for us to not just think about sustainability from the perspective of our natural and built environment – but what’s that third piece? That most important piece is our community and our community’s sustainability,” says Bryan Lewis, EcoWorks executive director. The orga-
nization’s main objective is reflected in its Net Zero F.A.S.T. (For All, Starting Today) initiative, which looks to carve out an equitable, affordable path to zero emissions by 2050. By working with partners from every sector across Southeast Michigan, the goal is to combat climate change and its effects in a way that includes everyone, especially the most exposed among us. Lewis says the initiative is “a recognition that, yeah, we can talk about
having a clean environment, but if that clean environment isn’t available to all, what are we even talking about here?” He says, “We can talk about climate change, if we decarbonize our entire society but people are still living in homes that have to pay upward of 30 to 40% of their income to DTE and don’t have money for food, then we’re not doing a good job. Sustainability is important, but we also have to have equity and economic oppor-
tunity that underpins that, so that people can actually own the change that’s happening.” Also, Lewis adds, we don’t want people to be made to feel guilty for not doing enough when they haven’t been given the proper education and resources. Under the Net Zero F.A.S.T. umbrella, EcoWorks has implemented key programs and initiatives that empower the community. The Youth Energy Squad encourages young people in hands-on, place-based projects that help make homes, schools and communities more sustainable. “There’s a significant opportunity for us to engage young people, and not just engage them, but have young people lead in this space,” Lewis says. He reminds that the problem of climate pollution is one that we’re primed to pass on to our children. The Eco-D program uses workshops, home visits and appliance upgrades to help residents lower their energy bills and achieve healthier homes. In partnership with DTE and its Energy Efficiency Assistance Program, customers and
residents of metro Detroit could be eligible to have their old, inefficient appliances replaced with new, Energy Star-certified models. And EcoWorks’ Healthy Home Kits deliver free, customized energy-saving materials directly to area residents, what Lewis calls “a basket of resources.” To get started, families and students with the Energy Squad need only conduct an audit of their homes, checking for air leaks around doors and windows, inefficient lightbulbs, running toilets, harsh chemicals and the like. Also, on a macro level, through its Strategic Community Initiatives, EcoWorks involves small businesses, school districts and municipalities in custom, clean energy solutions that will inch us closer to that net zero goal. Lewis had been the program director for the Youth Energy Squad before being appointed EcoWorks’ executive director in October, the first Black person to serve in that role in the organization’s 40-year history. He earned a bachelor’s in civil and environmental engineering, and a master’s in energy science, technology and policy from Carnegie Mellon University
before coming back home to Detroit to continue his work. “I always say to change the narrative around what’s happening in your community, you have to change the narrator,” Lewis says. “I think it’s huge that we are starting to see more and more people of color in leadership positions, in general, but especially in leadership position around sustainability and the environment. This is a really, really – take it from me – white-dominated space. And I’m not just talking about the people; I’m talking about the perspectives.” To ensure that the positive changes we make in the area of climate and environment benefit the many and not only the privileged few, Lewis says we must be intentional about also addressing the inequities that exist. “We have a real opportunity to be more mindful about how we are utilizing our resources, identifying our resources and developing our space, our city, to being inclusive of the culture and the people who live here already – and provide opportunities for them to take part in Detroit’s success,” he says.
“ Ford Fund believes that investing in the needs of our youth is an essential step toward empowering our communities for a promising future.” – Pamela Alexander, director of community development for Ford Motor Company
FA I R F I G H T
For more information on EcoWorks or to get involved, visit ecoworksdetroit.org.
BLACdetroit.com • APRIL 2021 • BLAC 13
EDITOR'S LETTER
As We Know It
W
hen the weather warms in Detroit a palpable electricity starts to materialize. I live in a downtown-adjacent apartment near the river and it seems as if that energy gets funneled south and unleashed right here. It’s truly something to behold. The synchronized rumble of chopper engines sliced by the bass from our favorite tracks. The sparkling clean cars and their drivers that treat parking rules as suggestions. The conversations exchanged across streets. It’s Black art. And there’s an extra charge in the air this season. After being locked down for a year, it’s clear that we’re itching to get back to life. Listen, we can’t throw all caution to the warm breeze quite yet, but as we continue to vaccinate the most vulnerable among us and more opportunities for hanging outdoors arise, let’s look forward. One thing we can do is start to pack away those sweatshirts and leggings. Wait, I mean, not all of them – let’s not get crazy here. But, as comfy as an elastic waist is, I miss real clothes! We know you must be too, and, so, we’re delivering eight pages of spring fashion, from florals to neon to denim (Page 40). You might spot a familiar face in those pages. Fun fact: One of our models is the poised Carole Gist, the first Black woman to win the title of Miss USA in 1990. She’s accompanied by the lively Bria Anderson, styled by Marv Neal and shot by Boswell Hardwick. We also dive into the idea of inclusive fashion (Page 36). The Black Lives Matter movement ushered in an era of reckoning felt across industries, fashion especially. We’ve since seen luxury labels buddy up to independent brands, consumers are all about buying Black and the powers that be seemed to have pulled out a chair. Timeless or trendy? Photo by Lauren Jeziorski On Page 30, we also consider art as an investment as last year’s uprising also reignited the conversation around building Black wealth and cultural reverence. One Birmingham collector couple along with art dealer George N’Namdi share their secrets. About art: We check in with two new exhibits. Dual Vision at MOCAD pairs local artists for a dialogue on collaboration (Page 24), and No Gyal Can Test at Red Bull Arts uses a mashup of mediums to recall the vibe of Jamaica’s dancehall scene (Page 22). April is also Autism Awareness Month, and parents will discover potential warning signs to keep an eye out for, and helpful tips and resources for families with a diagnosis (Page 18). Oh, and speaking of classic Detroit energy, for 313 Day we swung by a handful of nostalgic spots and photographed them and the people we met along the way (Page 50). Why? Because old Detroit ain’t dead yet.
Enjoy the issue.
Paris Giles Senior Editor 14 BLAC • APRIL 2021 • BLACdetroit.com
CEO/Publisher: Billy Strawter Jr. EDITORIAL Senior Editor: Paris Giles Copy Editor: Tamara O'Shaughnessy Contributors: Sydney Kispert-Bostick, Kaye Byrd, Ann Duke, Boswell Hardwick, Bettie Lutcher, Marv Neal, Nick Pizana, Arianna Smith, Ashley Valentina Hosey DESIGN Creative Director: Kelly Buren Senior Graphic Designer: Lindsey Lawson Photographer: Lauren Jeziorski
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BLACdetroit.com • APRIL 2021 • BLAC 15
CONTRIBUTORS
Meet Our Contributors
Each issue would be impossible without the help of our freelance writers and creative contributors.
Sydney Kispert-Bostick, photographer Native to Detroit, Sydney works as an independent photographer and creative artist. She graduated from Hiram College in Ohio with a bachelor’s in studio art. She’s shot for varied clients such as United Way for Southeastern Michigan and the Detroit Lions – she’s also been featured in the Detroit News. For nearly 16 years, Sydney has developed an artistic repertoire that includes portraiture, street and event photography, as well as mixed media. She aims to create vibrancy, showcasing the eccentricities of her subjects with a site-specific technique. Find Sydney’s work on Page 50. @photosbyskb photosbyskb.com
Marv Neal, wardrobe stylist Detroit-based but forever pushing our fashion limits, Marv has been traveling to expand his brand while simulatenously keeping the Motor City spirit alive. With 20 years of combined retail and styling experience, he’s cultivated looks and events for brands including UnitedFront, Thrift on the Ave, Elite Couture, Spoiled Forever, Versace, Dolce Moda and Henri Bendel. His work has been featured in Vogue Italia, Ambassador, Institute and Dark Beauty magazines. All the while, he’s been running the custom denim brand Jeanous Demin. Marv has also been hosting parties for the last five years, and, if you follow him on social media, you know he loves to laugh. Find Marv’s work on Page 40.
Nick Pizana, writer Nick Pizana is a professional artist and writer from Detroit. He studied journalism at Wayne State University and is currently pursuing a Master of Fine Arts in painting at Cranbrook Art Academy. As a painter, Nick works primarily in making colorful murals that draw from his background in street art and comic books. His work can be seen all around Detroit, from Hart Plaza to Eastern Market. In addition to his painting practice, Nick co-owns KO Studio Gallery in Hamtramck. Find Nick’s work on Pages 22, 24 and 26.
Arianna Smith, writer Arianna is a 22-year-old native Detroiter with a varied background and a love for cultural news. A graduate of Wayne State University’s journalism program and BLAC’s former intern, you can find her scoping out the latest restaurant, boutique, art project or gaming lounge in Detroit – when she isn’t glued to the screen watching a Marvel movie. A Black-owned business is the best kind of business, in her eyes, and Detroit stories are the best kind to tell. Find Arianna’s work on Page 20. ariannasmithport.weebly.com
@shorin_nick nickpizana.com
@marvneal marvneal.com
WE'RE ALWAYS LOOKING FOR TALENTED CONTRIBUTORS!
If you're an experienced writer, photographer or artist interested in working with BLAC, email your resume and samples of your work to editor@BLACdetroit.com. 16 BLAC • APRIL 2021 • BLACdetroit.com
Ashley Valentina Hosey, makeup artist Ashley is an accomplished makeup professional currently serving the metro Detroit area. Though she’s been in the industry for five years, her love for art and makeup started at a young age. She’s since become one of Michigan’s most soughtafter artists for special effects and bridal makeup. Peers and clients seek her expertise knowing they will get honest advice, beautifully applied makeup that reflects and enhances the face’s natural beauty, and an enjoyable experience. When Ashley is not doing makeup, she enjoys spending family time with her husband, Adam, and 7-year-old son, Ace. Find Ashley’s work on Page 40. @valentina.mua valentinaartistry.com
DISCOVER By Kaye Byrd
AUTISM
AWARENESS
A
utism is the fastest-growing developmental disability in the United States, according to the Autism Society, and caregivers should know what to look for in their children. Dr. Tisa Johnson, medical director of the Henry Ford Center for Autism and Developmental Disabilities, says early diagnosis is important. “When kids are diagnosed early with autism, they can take advantage of evidence-based services that we know can change the trajectory of their diagnosis,” she says. This is especially important for parents of African American children, because disparities exist in the early detection and treatment of autism. Johnson guides us through some questions caregivers should ask as their child matures from infancy. Three areas of a child’s development are usually affected by autism: social interaction, verbal and nonverbal communication, and inflexible behavior. Johnson’s recommendation to parents: “Regardless of where they get care for their child – whether it is a pediatrician or a family medicine doctor – if their provider is not doing standard screening at 18 and 24 months, I would empower them to ask for it. Because it really should be done.”
18 BLAC • APRIL 2021 • BLACdetroit.com
HOW DO THEY ENGAGE?
Johnson advises paying attention to shared or joint attention, which is the ability to coordinate focus on an object with another person. This is an important step in nonverbal communication and socialization. If you ask your child to focus on a ball that you’re also focusing on, can they join? Also note if the child follows a pointed finger and whether the child is waving, pointing, gesturing or avoiding eye contact.
HOW DO THEY COMMUNICATE?
By 12 months old, children typically will say one or two words. Johnson says even if they haven’t said a meaningful word, they should be making some communicative sounds, and their jargon should have some inflection. Caregivers should also pay attention to whether the baby makes sounds directed toward an object or person, or if they make them into space. Making sounds is important, but they should also be using them socially.
HOW ARE THEY PLAYING?
Johnson says to observe how long the child plays with a toy – is there an excessive interest? Is there repetitive movement such as lining them up at a frequency or intensity that is restrictive? As they age, are they pretending or imitating as part of play? Also notice whether they are sharing and showing their toys. Children’s play time should be functional.
A FEW HELPFUL RESOURCES: The Color of Autism Foundation
empowers Black families to identify the warning signs of autism and seek proper care. Attend Spectrum of Care, a free virtual program facilitated by professionals who provide guidance on becoming your child’s best advocate.
thecolorofautism.org
Autism Alliance of Michigan
offers the Navigator program, a one-stop resource that connects families to resources and provides a team of specialists to answer questions. The program aims to help families navigate and overcome barriers to accessing care and support.
autismallianceofmichigan.org
Caliber Autism Care
has social skills programs for children and adolescents diagnosed with autism, from the time of diagnosis through adulthood. Services are homebased, covering Wayne, Macomb and Oakland counties.
caliberautism.com
Detroit Wayne Integrated Health Network
allows eligible families to use the Michigan Medicaid Autism Benefit for Applied Behavior Analysis (ABA) services for those with a diagnosis, from birth through age 20.
dwihn.org/autism-services
The Henry Ford Center for Autism and Developmental Disabilities
provides comprehensive diagnostic evaluation, and evidence-based and accessible ABA therapy.
henryford.com/services/autism
BLACdetroit.com • APRIL 2021 • BLAC 19
DISCOVER By Arianna Smith
TECH SAVVY W
@stemlingoco stemlingo.com 20 BLAC • APRIL 2021 • BLACdetroit.com
C
CLICK BAIT
orking for NASA is one of the coolest jobs most can imagine. For Aisha Bowe, owner and founder of STEMBoard, that’s just another bullet point on her resume. “I love to call myself the ‘accidental engineer,’ but I can’t see me being anywhere else now that I’m here,” she says. Bowe started her college career at Washtenaw Community and ended it with double aerospace engineering and space systems engineering degrees from the University of Michigan. She founded STEMBoard in 2013, a company offering engineering consulting and project assistance. For the last eight years, they’ve devoted 20% of income and resources to growing engagement and education in STEM for students across the country. Enter the Lingo Coding Kit, STEMBoard’s new at-home box that turns the dinner table into a tech lab. “People loved the camps and curriculums we created previously, so last April, when the pandemic kicked off, I challenged my team to come up with a new way to deliver that experience to students. The response is amazing. Little Black kids write in and say it’s the first time they’ve been taught science by someone who looks like them,” Bowe says. According to the website, Lingo Kits offer students step-by-step video instructions to help them complete projects and gadgets with a cool STEM focus. None of the projects require help from a parent. “Right now, we have the In the Driver’s Seat kit where kids can build a working driving sensor. The next ones are going to center around sports and music; I’m thinking of calling that one ‘Trap Lingo,’” Bowe says. The Lingo Coding Kit strives to make the seemingly unattainable look and feel real for kids who otherwise might never have imagined it. She says, “If I can marry the interests kids already have with something new and full of opportunity, that’s how you bring new minds into the fold and broaden the field.”
ontrary to what it might sound like, the new “selfie museum” created by Danielle D. Hughes, Dr. Danielle Penson and Kierra Pack-Henderson is not a dusty room of shelves with old Polaroid selfies. Instead, The Pose Experience is an interactive venue where guests can create whatever photo experience tickles their fancy. “Pose is a place where you can be whoever you want to be, live in that perfect moment for a while and then freeze that moment in time,” Hughes says. The three women entrepreneurs and professionals met after being honored with the Michigan Chronicle’s 40 under 40 award in 2019. They formed a group chat, then a friendship and a sisterhood. After the stresses of 2020, the women wanted to open a business that combined social media savvy and unique, creative fun. “It was a divine connection,” says Penson. “When three creative minds come together, anything is possible. We decided to open a photo house on Dec. 20, and, a month later, that’s what we did.” Tickets are $28 for 45 minutes, and only 10 people can occupy the space at once. Enjoy 10 rotating themed “experience” areas where you can take photos, like the Dream Closet, Beach Area, Donut Wall and Girl Boss Office. Pose can also be rented out for parties and private shoots. Hughes says, “It can be a small personal thing with friends or even something like an album photo shoot. We did the whole build-out ourselves and, ultimately, we wanted to create something for people to do that was safe and joyful for the community – even if you just want to dress up on a Saturday afternoon and be cute with your friends to forget how hard things have been.”
15618 W. 10 Mile Road, Southfield @theposeexperience theposeexperience.com
DISCOVER By Nick Pizaña
ISLAND V I B E O
pening in April at Red Bull Arts Detroit, No Gyal Can Test is the vision of artist and designer Akeem Smith, who uses photography, video and installations to create an immersive look into the essence of Kingston, Jamaica’s dancehall scene and preserving it for posterity. Akeem offers a look at dancehall from the 1980s to the early 2000s through cultural artifacts, including personal photos and videos from family members and icons within the dancehall community. Smith’s own ties to dancehall are familial bonds, growing up inspired by the OUCH Crew, a six-woman artist collective that designed clothes for dancehall artists, led by Smith’s aunt. The crew is known for their one-off designs that helped to
define dancehall aesthetics – and the exhibition is a personal journey through their perspectives. Reflecting on his upbringing between New York and Jamaica, Smith explores the diaspora across location and time. The exhibition is as archeological as it is artistic, with sculptural installations salvaged from structures in Kingston that simulate the environments from which they come. The items vary from junkyard discards to old clothes
22 BLAC • APRIL 2021 • BLACdetroit.com
and curtains. “There was something in me that felt that they were important,” Smith says. “I was thinking they’re never going to make things like this again, and I really wanted to preserve this moment and the things that remind me of this time. With Black history, there’s not a lot of first-person narratives.” For Smith, it’s important not just that these stories are told but that they are told by the people who lived it, with an intentional spotlight on female perspectives that may otherwise go overlooked. The show originally opened last year at Red Bull Arts New York to great critical acclaim. The Detroit presentation of the exhibition will feature new sculptures and site-specific video and audio installations, including “Veranda,” a tower of stacked speakers covered in ornate wrought iron. As part of the Detroit programming, the exhibition will also feature several engaging conversations including Dancehall Diaries, featuring dancehall icons highlighted in the exhibition: Sandra
Lee, Paula Ouch, Debbie Ouch and the original Dancehall Queen Carlene. They will focus on their legacy and how dancehall has changed. Another conversation, Slack Archives, will be a roundtable discussion on the themes on the exhibition featuring Smith and the women featured in the exhibition, focusing on visibility and historical record.
April 16 - July 30 redbullarts.com/detroit
HEALTH ADVICE FROM ASCENSION MICHIGAN
How Do Uterine Fibroids Affect Reproductive Health? Simisola Caxton-Idowu, M.D.
E
ach woman’s menstrual cycle is different, however, if you or someone you know is experiencing heavy, prolonged periods with extensive cramping and pressure, uterine fibroids may be to blame. Ascension Medical Group OB-GYN Dr. Simisola Caxton-Idowu says those muscular growths on the uterine walls – likely the culprit of your symptoms – are most likely to be benign, but you should still seek treatment. “It’s the most common solid pelvic mass in women, but knowledge is definitely lacking,” Dr. Caxton-Idowu says. “People are often concerned that this could be cancer when they first seek treatment.” Even after she confirms that the condition is likely not cancerous, her patients still have questions around what the diagnosis will mean for their lives and reproductive health. Not all people affected by uterine fibroids experience symptoms, but, for those who do, they can range from the aforementioned heavy periods and cramping to urinary
complaints. Those who bleed heavily might experience symptoms of anemia, like dizziness, fatigue or feeling cold all the time. “It’s on a spectrum, so no two cases of uterine fibroids are the same. Some people can take medication or get by just being monitored. Some women need or want uterine surgery.” This could mean a myomectomy to remove the fibroids, or a hysterectomy to remove the uterus. “Treatment, much like the case itself, depends on the patient,” Dr. Caxton-Idowu says. Uterine fibroids are most common in African Americans. We don’t know why exactly, but mistrust and other factors can lead to patients delaying or avoiding treatment. “In my own personal experience, I’ve seen Black women patients ignore or disregard their symptoms for longer than they should because they think it’s nothing. With this and other conditions, the takeaway is never hesitate to open a dialogue with your doctor,” she says. Knowing that uterine fibroids
may worsen during childbearing years and pregnancy might be frightening to women who want to start families, but the condition doesn’t necessarily mean there will be problems. Most women with fibroids have normal pregnancies. “Having fibroids doesn’t automatically disqualify you from having children. It depends on where they’re placed and your situation, but for the most part, it doesn’t always affect the ability to get pregnant,” Dr. Caxton-Idowu says. According to Women’s Health, about 20 to 80% of women develop fibroids by the time they reach age 50, and they’re most common in women in their 40s and early 50s. Uterine fibroids usually shrink and vanish after menopause. Being overweight, having a family history of the condition and not-so-great eating habits have been proposed as possible links to uterine fibroids, but, as always, the best bet is to talk with your doctor if you’re experiencing symptoms or think you’re at risk. Dr. Caxton-Idowu says be open and honest.
"Having fibroids doesn’t automatically disqualify you from having children. It depends on where they’re placed and your situation, but for the most part, it doesn’t always affect the ability to get pregnant."
GET MORE HEALTH INFORMATION AND FIND A DOCTOR NEAR YOU BY VISITING ASCENSION.ORG/MICHIGAN OR CALLING 866-501-DOCS (3627) BLACdetroit.com • APRIL 2021 • BLAC 23
DISCOVER By Nick Pizaña
DYNAMIC DUOS A
new exhibition at the Museum of Contemporary Art Detroit pairs local artists to communicate through collaboration. Dual Vision matches 40 artists who work, or have worked, in Detroit across different disciplines and generations, acting as a survey of Detroit’s artistic landscape. The pairs were matched based on their relationships or similarities in their work. Each was asked to collaborate on one piece, and, in the process, enter into a dialogue with each other through their art. “This is an artist-driven activation,” says Jova Lynne, MOCAD’s senior curator. “Some artists have relationships, and some do not. But their work is in relationship to each other.” Lynne says the ideas behind the pieces in the show are drawn from conversations and experimentation between the artists. Even among the artists who knew each other prior, many of them hadn’t had the chance to actually collaborate on one piece. Dual Vision – Lynne’s first exhibition since returning to MOCAD – is a starting point for a new approach to these relationships. The expansive roster of artists draws on a wide variety of mediums, from painting and photography, to metalworking and fiber, to sculpture and interactive installation. Walking into the gallery, the viewer is welcomed by a plethora of artworks that engage with them in different ways. Some artists offer work in their signature style, while others chose to step outside of the norm, opting to embrace the experimental. Each piece is accompanied with a QR Code that guests can scan to learn more about each pair and the thought behind the pieces. Another major element of the exhibition is bridging gaps between generations and movements, from established veterans of Detroit’s Cass Corridor of the ‘70s who helped co-curate the show, to emerging artists of today and everything in between. Lynne says the mashups help highlight the continued influence of older generations of artists and sets the stage for up-and-coming artists who are working to do the same. “If you think about the historical art movements that exist in the city, how are these artists shaping that cannon right now?” Open through Aug. 8 @mocadetroit mocadetroit.org 24 BLAC • APRIL 2021 • BLACdetroit.com
BLACdetroit.com • APRIL 2021 • BLAC 25
APPRAISED By Nick Pizaña
BLACK SPACES
D
etroit-based artist Deja Milany explores Black history and celebrates Black hair through her fiber art. Her practice is inspired by her childhood, influenced by her mother, a cosmetologist who introduced her to hair shows, fashion shoots and the culture of the beauty salon. Milany studied fibers at the College for Creative Studies, where she pursued her interest in wearable art and fashion. Her studies there led her to crafting handdyed hair wraps. For Milany, the custommade wraps represented a personal touch in the midst of expanding fast fashion. “I’ve always loved the idea of creating something specific for a person, something unique for the person,” she says. Milany dyed the wraps in indigo as a natural alternative to synthetic dyes – and because of its link to West African textile traditions. Currently, Milany is continuing her studies at the Cranbrook Academy of Art. Her recent work focuses not on the wraps, but instead reimagine the hair beneath. “I realized how much I love the craft of hair braiding,” she says. “I wanted to explore it outside of its normal form on the head.” She expands the possibility of Black hair, creating works by braiding hair on canvas or creating playful hanging installations. “I love creating safe spaces and spaces that are familiar, but are also portals and places for escapism for Black people.” One of Milany’s recent pieces is being featured in the exhibition Unraveled. Unstructured. Revealed. at the Trout Museum of Art in Appleton, Wisconsin. It’s just the beginning. She says, “I want to continue making space for us.” @dazzlindeja dejamilanycreates.squarespace.com
26 BLAC • APRIL 2021 • BLACdetroit.com
BLACdetroit.com • APRIL 2021 • BLAC 27
IN STYLE By Paris Giles
Spring Forward
Shake off the winter blues in bold prints and luminescent hues.
Vavvoune Dais Belt Bag $325 • vavvoune.com
Andrea Iyamah Ama Jumpsuit $228 • andreaiyamah.com
Fenty
Code Word Sandals $570 • fenty.com
Christopher John Rogers Zip Front Floral Corset Top $1,025 (Saks Fifth Avenue) • christopherjohnrogers.com
Autumn Adeigbo
Poppy Dress $418 • autumnadeigbo.com
Petit Kouraj Lime Daye Tote $245 • petitkouraj.com
Autumn Adeigbo Scenic Beaded Headband $128 • autumnadeigbo.com 28 BLAC • APRIL 2021 • BLACdetroit.com
M Y BU
Rock a BLAC T-shirt or hoodie and remind everyone everywhere that you honor Black Life, Arts and Culture. Available in men’s and women’s cuts and sizes.
E!
We’ve got swag!
For over two decades, BLAC has empowered and amplified the voice of the community, taking care to spotlight those oft-forgotten corners.
BLACK LIFE ARTS & CULTURE
20
S H O P. B L A C D E T R O I T. C O M
BLACdetroit.com • APRIL 2021 • BLAC 29
Dealing in
Considering art as an investment opportunity? An area couple shares their strategy. 30 BLAC • APRIL 2021 • BLACdetroit.com
Culture By Paris Giles Photos by Lauren Jeziorski BLACdetroit.com • APRIL 2021 • BLAC 31
D
eep in a cave on the Indonesian island of Sulawesi, in 2018, archaeologists discovered what some suggest may be
the oldest figurative artwork in the world. The depiction of three wild pigs painted on the cave’s limestone walls is estimated to be 45,000 years old, the oldest surviving representation of an animal ever found, according to a paper published in Science Advances. Whether this is the oldest work of art in the world is up for debate as so too is the definition of art, but what is for certain is that the desire to make and possess art is as innately human as the urge to gather in groups or imagine what may lie beyond the stars. Far from those humble cavern drawings, our more modern art can generate some serious coins. Much has been discussed of late, especially, around investing in art and whether it’s a sound way to grow capital. This may be a conversation that Black folks want to get in on, because if there are two things that are bound to come up when we get together, it’s protecting our culture and building generational wealth. Investing in Black art may be just the way to leapfrog two hurdles at once. But art collecting isn’t something you want to jump into face first at 2 a.m. after a bottle of wine. Do your research, take your time, learn all that you can about the market and, here’s the fun part: immerse yourself in your local art culture. If you’re going to make it worth your while, it’ll require some strategizing and a bit of savvy. Lean on local curators and asset managers who specialize in alternative investments, and, perhaps this is obvious, but you should have an appreciation for the art itself.
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Planning a Portfolio
Sherida and Taft Parsons of Birmingham have a spreadsheet to keep track of their most valuable works of art; they’ve got 80 or so. Sherida started collecting in college. “Now, the price point was quite different,” she says with a smile. Still, she started with prints, Black calendars and photos of her family, using software to convert those into art. “And then in medical school there was a Black art gallery that was having a going out of business sale, and I was able to get what I felt was my first real art. It was a Charles Bibbs piece, and they had some African art. Everything that I could afford at that time, I grabbed it. It spiraled from there.” She and husband Taft are both doctors; they met in school in Milwaukee. “Our income has changed, increased, and that has changed what we’ve been able to purchase. We’ve been able to accumulate more blue-chip art, so art that has value right from the start rather than like an emerging artist or an up-and-coming artist. You know, those pieces may have value much later on, sometimes not until the artist passes away.” Like the stock market, how stable and well-established a brand is matters to the risk. Purchasing shares of Apple is going to be a safer bet than investing in an unknown startup, for example. The same applies to artists. One thing you’ll want to consider when thinking about investing is whether to lean toward or away from contemporary or budding artists. Yeah, it’ll feel good to have an artwork from the latest buzzed-about artist hanging on your wall, and, so, if it moves you and you want to support, grab it. As to whether that piece will appreciate, though, there’s no way to be certain. Taft says, “As the financial investment in art has grown, I think that we have been more considerate and thoughtful about the investment potential.” But, they’ve got more than what’s on that spreadsheet. “There are other pieces around the house that we just like, pieces that we got on vacation. You know, you’re in Jamaica on the beach and some guys are painting,” and then it’s about the memory and the mood. Art is just one slice of the pie for the Parsons, another way to diversify their overall portfolios. Unless you’re playing in the million-dollar leagues, you’re unlikely to get rich investing in art alone. “Yes, we have stocks, mutual funds, real estate,” Taft says. “This is a way to be in another financial market that
“Yes, we have stocks, mutual funds, real estate. This is a way to be in another financial market that moves differently.” BLACdetroit.com • APRIL 2021 • BLAC 33
Dealing in Culture moves differently.” On average, contemporary art returns 7.6% to investors each year, according to Artprice, compared to an average annual return 10% from the S&P 500. That said, the art market is less susceptible to the political and economic factors that influence traditional markets making it potentially more stable.
A Digital Discussion
In March, Twitter CEO Jack Dorsey put the first tweet ever sent on the platform up for auction online. As of this writing, the bid had reached $2.5 million. What does that even mean, right? It’s already out there so anyone can screenshot it – and look, I’ve got the first tweet. But Dorsey is dealing in nonfungible tokens, which are unique strings of code authenticated through blockchain technology and linked to a digital file: an image, music, a video clip. It’s a certificate of authenticity of sorts, a way to prove that, although this content may have been replicated countless time, this one is the original. NFTs have grabbed the attention of the art world for its ability to be used to buy
“Buy it because you like it, buy it because you have a mission of preserving our culture and sit back and enjoy it. And it will come. You will have an asset that you’re looking at every day,” 34 BLAC • APRIL 2021 • BLACdetroit.com
and sell digital art using cryptocurrency. Christie’s auction house recently sold its first purely digital artwork for $69 million, the highest price paid for an NFT to date. The work is a collage of 5,000 drawings by the digital artist Mike Winkelmann aka Beeple. “The first 10 minutes of this sale we had more than 100 bids placed,” Noah Davis, a specialist in post-war and contemporary art for Christie’s, told Yahoo Finance. “We went from an opening bid of $100 to more than $1 million. We had bidders from seven different countries.” Taft says he and Sherida have no plans to get into the digital space any time soon. “Here’s the thing that goes on in what they call ‘the secondary market’ – which is the auction houses and things like that – there’s something hot that people with a whole bunch of money want to get because it’s the hot thing to do, and it may or may not last,” he says. “It may just be a flash in the pan, and things that are a flash in the pan, you know, they will be very expensive for a short period of time, and then that value is going to drop off. This happens with fine art as well. There’s a hot artist for a short period of time, and then they’re not,” Taft says. Others have also questioned the staying power of NFTs, and some have suggested that what you’re actually paying for when you buy one is an ego boost more than anything. Because, again, owning that line of code does not stop others from accessing, copying or reproducing that work. For the artists, though, NFTs could be a way to reclaim ownership over their art. It’s also worth noting that royalties can be attached to NFTs so that artists get a cut each time that work is traded, past the initial sale.
Do What You Love
“So many people are getting into art,” says George N’Namdi, art dealer and founder of the N’Namdi Center for Contemporary Art in Detroit. “I want you to invest in art, but I want you to understand why. The monetary reason is the least amount of why you do it.” N’Namdi started procuring art in the ‘70s, and he’s since amassed a personal collection of about 150 pieces. He says a desire to preserve Black culture was why he got started, and the rest followed. Art is different from most traditional investments in that there’s an
emotional element involved. Sure, you’ve got an attachment to the home you raised your children in, but your shares of Adidas stock? Probably not. As N’Namdi notes, you’re not likely to sell off a cherished work that elbowed you in the spirit when you first saw it on a whim to make a few extra, or even a few extra thousand, bucks. He says people get rid of art because of what he says are “the three Ds”: debt, divorce and death. Past that, you hang on to a piece because you love it or you love the artist, and you want it to take up space in your world. Then, OK, decades down the line maybe the work has appreciated so that its financial value holds up against its emotional worth. “Buy it because you like it, buy it because you have a mission of preserving our culture and sit back and enjoy it. And it will come. You will have an asset that you’re looking at every day,” N’Namdi says. Or, if you do plan to eventually part with it and pass it on, who better than to you children? For the Parsons, their three kids – ages 16, 12 and 5 – are a part of their strategy. Taft says, “It is certainly nice to collect art that will have long-lasting value that, in a general sense, will increase over time and we’ll be able to pass it down to our children as part of a generational accumulation of wealth.” Sherida adds that the couple takes care to educate their children about the family’s art collection, about its value and cultural significance. “We won’t always be here,” she says. “So, we have to educate our children as to what it is, who the artists are, the value of it, what it means to their future – and we are helping to cultivate their love of art.” That right there is the main motivator. More than the money, the Parsons say they’re looking to foster an appreciation of beauty and an expression of self. Taft says, “We look for pieces that tell a story, primarily about us, our people. We almost exclusively collect art by Black artists. The subject matter is things that we really connect to, people, places, colors – if it’s an abstract piece. We think that it’s not only important to be able to pass something on to them, but surrounding them in positive images of Blackness, it very subtly changes the way they view the world. If they can see being in this house as a refuge, somewhere where Blackness is appreciated and exalted, it increases their overall self-esteem and how they feel about being Black children here in the U.S.” PARIS GILES IS BLAC DETROIT’S SENIOR EDITOR.
i o h n s For a F
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The status quo has been done away with across industries, including fashion. Creatives and consumers are calling for a long-overdue makeover – and equity paired with inclusion is what ’s on trend. BY PARIS GILES
atch a classic movie or peer at an old photograph and it’s easy to make a quick connection from the clothes to the era to the zeitgeist. Beaded shifts and lengthy strings of pearls. That’s the roaring ‘20s, prohibition and the Harlem Renaissance. Circle skirts and penny loafers. That’s the ‘50s, civil rights and desperate housewives. Shoulder pads and Lycra leggings. That’s the ‘80s, the boom of Wall Street and the birth of hip-hop. We tell the story of who we are in our clothes. Take those loose-fitting, easy dresses of the 1920s, for instance. They, and the cropped hair worn with, were echoes of a decade that brought with it newfound freedom, kicked off by women winning the vote. No, being harnessed at the waist won’t do if I’m to be able to groove to this jazz and move unrestrained through this quicker world. That was our first modern attempt at redefining femininity, and, 100 years later, the fashion of the 2020s is positioned to be about reimagining inclusion. The pressure had been building for years with most of the buzz hovering around the industry’s message on beauty. Terms like “body positivity” have entered our lexicon, and Black Twitter is quick on the draw if ever the melanin feels lacking – or isn’t being lit properly. Post the recent racial uprising, though, the ante has been upped. No longer are we comfortable with gatekeepers and the idea that fashion is but only for some. As mimicked across industries, it’s a breaking of the ceiling we’re after, real power reflective of the real influence that we bring. Forgive my editorializing here, but let’s be frank: Black folks make shit cool. When asked whether she’s surprised to see that the Black Lives Matter movement has bled into fashion, Roslyn Karamoko, owner of Détroit is the New Black,
answers succinctly. “Not at all,” she says. “I think that fashion is reflective of society at large. It’s generally an expression of what’s happening in our world culturally.” We’re seeing luxury fashion houses partner with independent designers and streetwear brands, consumers are sniffing out Black-owned labels first and the industry, at least for now, seems committed to uplifting creatives of color. Karamoko says she suspects some of “that hype will eventually die down, unfortunately.” No matter. “It’s still an opportunity for us, in this season, to really build strong business and identify those people that are in it for the long haul,” she says. This is when we’ll really start to see who’s got style and forethought past the trend. The CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund was established in 2003 to buoy emerging American designers during the economic decline that followed the 2001 recession, and they’ve made some key pivots in light of our most recent crises and to address structural racism. Last spring, the Fashion Fund launched A Common Thread, a storytelling and fundraising initiative that raised more than $5 million to help companies affected by the pandemic, with $1 million being funneled toward Black- and person of color-owned brands, specifically. Recipients included LaQuan Smith and his super sexy designs that treat skin as a supplemental material; Telfar, the recipient of the Fashion Fund’s $400,000 grand prize in 2017 and whose catch-all tote bags have garnered a cult following on the east coast; and Aurora James’ Brother Vellies, which leans into of-theearth colors and natural animal skins. James is also the brains behind the 15 Perfect Pledge, imploring retailers to commit 15% of shelf space to Black brands. James will also serve on the latest CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund panel of judges alongside Vogue Editor-in-Chief Anna Wintour, designer Tom Ford and
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Fashion Forward
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others. In years past, of the 10 finalists, the panel has selected three winners. For 2021, the Fashion Fund has announced that each of the 10 finalists will be awarded money. It was also announced that the CFDA would be launching Impact, a talent directory and job platform specifically for Black, Indigenous and people of color fashion creatives. They’ll be able to post their resumes and work for companies looking to fill open positions. “Kudos to them,” Karamoko says about these new changes. “Those efforts are really important from the large platforms that are essentially introducing the next wave of designers into American culture.” Karamoko certainly understands the importance of supporting budding fashion designers. In collaboration with the Boys & Girls Clubs of Southeastern Michigan, Détroit is the New Black has been hosting the Industry Club, a youth-led incubator of sorts that teaches area high school students the ins and outs of the fashion business. Two days a week since fall, they’ve been coming to DITNB on Woodward for hands-on experience, learning everything from design to merchandizing to branding. This first cohort of kids released their first collection in February, dubbed the Reimagine Black Wallstreet Collection. A line of mostly T-shirts and hoodies, emblazoned with phrases like Unapologetically Black and In Pursuit of True Freedom, is meant to offer a commentary on social justice and race relations in America. The next cohort is set to start work this spring on a sports-focused collection that, Karamoko says, will launch this summer at select Footlocker stores. “As you think about COVID and even the future of brickand-mortar retail, you know, it is about experience but it is also about thinking about the space beyond retail. How do you use the space as an inclusive environment and as one that is built around the community? For us to be able to invite them in to see the bones of retail and how they might be able to build their businesses is really exciting,” she says. They’re also continuing an accelerator in partnership with Pure Michigan where local brands are invited into the space. That program is a couple years old, and some brands have gone on to become rental partners, Karamoko says. “It’s been quite successful. It’s very important as an entrepreneur, as a small business owner, to make sure you’re sowing that back into the community that ultimately has supported you.” Of late, we’ve also seen luxury brands link arms with independent brands, streetwear designers and culturally relevant names. Of course, we remember the deal that Dapper Dan inked with Gucci in 2017 that made headlines. In a truly beautiful display of irony, the partnership produced a collection of acces-
sories and ready-to-wear pieces that evoked the spirit of the streetwear for which Dan had become famous in the ‘90s, but that also got him into trouble for ripping off the trademarks of Gucci and other brands. But then, in February 2019, the Italian fashion house was embroiled in controversy when photos of what can only be described as a blackface sweater for sale on its website made the rounds on social media. Yikes. Still, Gucci seems committed to doing better. That misstep led to creative director Alessandro Michele famously flying from Italy to Harlem purportedly with the sole purpose of sitting down with Dan himself. More recently and closer to home, Gucci has partner with Tommey Walker and his DETROIT VS EVERYBODY brand on a line of T-shirts meant to celebrate each of Gucci’s 11 “changemaker cities.” The Gucci Changemakers of North America Scholarship Programs awards grants between $10,000 and $50,000 to community-based organizations in 11 cities to foster opportunity in communities of color, including Detroit. Attempts to pin Walker down for direct comment were unsuccessful, but, to the Detroit News in March, he said, “I’m really proud of the collab and even more humbled that the project supports changemaking philanthropy at the grassroots level, where it is needed the most.” We can’t talk about inclusion without also talking about the models. As the demand for broader representation behind the scenes has grown, so too has our desire to see a variety of skin tones, hair types and body shapes pedestaled. The industry seems to be responding in kind. Even Victoria’s Secret, who seemed committed to fight to the bitter end, now regularly features lusciously full-figured models on its social media platforms and in its ad campaigns. Scroll IMG Models’ website homepage and you may be struck, as I was, to find that the majority of the models featured are Black. At the time of this writing, I spotted snaps of Georgia Palmer for French Vogue, Alek Wek for Purple and curve model Precious Lee for V magazine, among other highlights. Those of you who perhaps haven’t had a fashion photograph give you goosebumps may not know, but IMG Models is one of the most notable modeling agencies in the world. With offices in New York, Los Angeles, Paris, London, Milan and Sydney, they represent some of the industry’s biggest names, from Jourdan Dunn to Ashley Graham to Chanel Iman. About that website: A Black Lives Matter reaction, you might think, but New York City-based
“I think that fashion is reflective of society at large. It ’s generally an expression of what ’s happening in our world culturally.” THE REIMAGINE BLACK WALLSTREET COLLECTION AVAILABLE AT DÉTROIT IS THE NEW BLACK
manager Charles Short says not so fast. “IMG Models, in particular, we’ve been the vanguards and on the forefront of so many of the changes that people are now starting to sort of charter,” he says. “You know, we’ve been representing models of color forever. We were one of the first agencies to really push, in a wholehearted way, curve models, both male and females.” Of course across the industry this diversity wasn’t always the way of things – especially with regard to Black models. “When I first got into the business, I mean, you could be a Black model, but you had to have very Caucasian features, your skin had to be on the lighter side – as you know – you had to wear your hair relaxed or at least blown out to the point that it was pin straight, and sort of be a girl of color but have a Caucasian sort of essence about you.” Following her powerful inauguration poem, IMG announced that they’d also be representing Amanda Gorman under their talent division, and also second stepdaughter (right?) Ella Emhoff. Short couldn’t speak on the ladies specifically but on the importance of the agency keeping its ear to the street and responding to the chatter, he says, “We always have our antenna up. We’re always looking for that fresh, new, authentic voice.” Even the idea of models being encouraged to have a voice and use it is a fairly new concept, one that we can likely credit, at least in part, to the rise of social media and speaks to the industry’s evolution across the board. So, how do Black fashion brands, especially, take advantage of this season? Karamoko says figure out distribution by identifying possible retail partners and access funding in the forms of grants, loans, special programs and the like – “which has been a long-term struggle for Black businesses.” The ultimate goal is independent sustainability and, eventually, seamless inclusion. She says, “Our place is the same as any other American designer.” PARIS GILES IS BLAC DETROIT'S SENIOR EDITOR. BLACdetroit.com • APRIL 2021 • BLAC 39
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access
DETROIT | APRIL 2021
W
e know it’s only April, but let’s skip the showers and head straight for the flowers. Breathe in the fresh air at these local botanical and community gardens.
PALMER PARK URBAN EDUCATIONAL GARDEN
Highlights: garden bed rentals, volunteer opportunities, agricultural education Merrill Plaisance Street, Palmer Park, Detroit peopleforpalmerpark.org
CRANBROOK GARDENS
Highlights: 106-year-old Japanese garden, tree-covered trails, reflecting pool 380 Lone Pine Road, Bloomfield Hills housegardens.cranbrook.edu
LAFAYETTE GREENS
Highlights: chemical-free produce and flowers, seasonal events, certified pollinator garden 132 W. Lafayette Ave., Detroit greeningofdetroit.com/greenspaces
TAYLOR CONSERVATORY & BOTANICAL GARDENS
Highlights: private tours and events, photography equipment rentals, public events 22314 Northline Road, Taylor taylorconservatory.org
THE MICHIGAN URBAN FARMING INITIATIVE
Highlights: pay-what-you-can produce for households, retention pond, children’s sensory garden 7432 Brush St., Detroit miufi.org
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ABOVE: The Michigan Urban Farming Initiative Farm TOP RIGHT: Taylor Conservatory & Botanical Gardens BOTTOM LEFT: Lafayette Greens LEFT: Cranbrook Gardens
D I S C O V E R B L A C F R I D AY S
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SEEN
Photos by Sydney Kispert-Bostick
Classic Detroit on 313 Day
To celebrate 313 Day, we swung by a few classic Detroit spots, from the city’s oldest jazz club to a royal riverboat.
Chelsea Bridgwater, Chantel Mosley, Gabrielle Dotson
Denise Dotson aka “Diva D Art”
Gerard Gibbs, Ralphe Armstrong
Tommy Williams 50 BLAC • APRIL 2021 • BLACdetroit.com
Geffrey Harris
Marcus Rodney, Stacey Rodney