IT'S FREE!
NO.834 I FRIDAY, NOVEMBER 30, 2023
Up and at ‘em.
NO.834 I FRIDAY, NOVEMBER 30, 2023
50 BANGKOK SPOTS TO GRAB
1
WE’RE MORE THAN
EXCITE
WE’RE MORE THAN A CONTENT STUDIO. WE’RE MORE THAN A CONTENT STUDIO. WE CREATE BRAND WE’RE MORE THAN A CONTENT STUDIO. STORIES THAT MATTER. WE’RE MORE THAN A CONTENT STUDIO. Let us tell yours WE’RE MORE THAN A CONTENT STUDIO. in a way that WE’RE MORE THAN A CONTENT STUDIO. engages, entertains, WE’RE MORE THAN A CONTENT STUDIO. and builds trust. WE’RE MORE THAN A CONTENT STUDIO. WE’RE MORE THAN A CONTENT STUDIO. WE’RE STUDIO. MORE THAN A CONTENT STUDIO. WE’RE MORE MORE THAN THAN A A CONTENT CONTENT WE’RE STUDIO. WE’RE MORE THAN A CONTENT STUDIO. WE’RE MORE MORE THAN THAN A A CONTENT CONTENT STUDIO. STUDIO. WE’RE ENTERTAIN WE’RE STUDIO. MORE THAN A CONTENT STUDIO. WE’RE MORE MORE THAN THAN A A CONTENT CONTENT WE’RE STUDIO. WE’RE MORE MORE THAN THAN A A CONTENT CONTENT STUDIO. STUDIO. WE’RE WE’RE MORE MORE THAN THAN A A CONTENT CONTENT STUDIO. STUDIO. WE’RE WE’RE MORE THAN A CONTENT STUDIO. WE’RE MORE THAN A CONTENT STUDIO. WE’RE MORE THAN A CONTENT STUDIO. WE’RE MORE THAN A CONTENT STUDIO. WE’RE MORE MORE THAN THAN A A CONTENT CONTENT STUDIO. STUDIO. WE’RE WE’RE MORE THAN A CONTENT STUDIO. WE’RE MORE THAN A CONTENT STUDIO. WE’RE MORE THAN A CONTENT STUDIO. WE’RE MORE THAN A CONTENT STUDIO. WE’RE MORE MORE THAN THAN A A CONTENT CONTENT STUDIO. STUDIO. WE’RE WE’RE MORE THAN A CONTENT STUDIO.
A CONTENT STUDIO
INFORM
OUR SPECIALTY
2
housead_sizeBAD2023_#2 200x120.indd 1
is creating captivating digital content for brands, leveraging the publishing expertise of Coconuts.
27/3/23 12:11
NO.834 I FRIDAY, NOVEMBER 30, 2023
WHO’S IN CHARGE? BK EDITORIAL Managing Director Dietrich Neu Managing Editor Tyler Roney Senior Lifestyle Writer Vinita Chumsri Senior Lifestyle Writer Sarisa Pokawattana
04
05
06
by the numbers
bk in brief
cover story
Top Tables breakdown.
Art Director Wirankan Saiyasombut GROVE: COCONUTS BRAND STUDIO Managing Editor Andra Nasrie Associate Thai Editor Pakvipa Rimdusit Branded Content Writer Moe Thet War
new & noted
Chiang Mai’s famous Khao-So-i has opened a branch in Silom.
Art Director Tan Kar Liang Production Manager Komkrit Klinkaeo
Publisher, Printer, and Editor Tara Rattanaphas
50 Bangkok spots to grab breakfast.
16
Senior Project Manager Sirinart Panyasricharoen Senior Account Manager Hafiz Rasid Senior Digital Account Manager Nuttajuk Kittichailuk
Head of Business Development Elizabeth Chua Senior Business Development Manager Piti Rungrojanaluck Business Development Manager Chalida Anuwattanawong Business Development Executives Joel Chua, Anna Dumont, and Liyana Juhari
Hell’s Kitchen Thailand is looking for applicants.
18 open door
Jhol’s new menu scours the indian coast for fresh flavors.
19 review
Samrub Samrub Thai is fine dining with soul. BK MAGAZINE IS A COCONUTS MEDIA PUBLICATION. Chairman Byron Perry General Manager Vim Shanmugam Head of Operations Clarissa Cortes coconuts.co Advertise with us advertising@coconuts.co
20 hit list
The Warehouse is Bangkok’s newest community hangout in Charoenkrung.
WHERE TO FIND US! COCONUTS BK LIMITED 111 Room 5A, 5th Floor We Space Building, Soi Thonglor 5 Khlong Tan Neua, Wattana Bangkok, 10110 Tel: 02-041-5755 Email: info@bkmagazine.com
get in the loop
bkmagazine.com latest news and trends
@bkmagazine
21
22
travel
last word
24 hours in Chiang Mai: breakfast, lunch, dinner, and drinks.
Ploydao Theeravech on Le Petit and the tiniest food in town.
contest, updates, stories
facebook.com/ bkmagazine see what’s happening
@bkmagazine 3
upfront
BY THE NUMBERS International Spanish Asian-European Mediterranean Mexican Chinese
1%
German Thai-Chinese Thai-Malay Thai-Japanese American Korean Mexican-Indian
2%
Japanese 12% Thai 42%
Judges from around the Bangkok F&B scene vote for Top Tables 2023, BK Magazine’s culinary event of the year. The winners were announced at an event on November 27, 2023. Here’s how the cuisines shake down. Top Tables 2023 features 100 restaurants.
Indian 6%
The top 30 spots in Top Tables 2023 are ranked, and there are 70 more must-tries for local and international foodies.
YOU SAID WHAT?
Facebook user Adam Beechinor on Ichiran Ramen’s original pop-up in Bangkok.
,”
Instagram user @cococannabkk on the opening of a new fetish bar and nightclub on Thonglor 5, The Castle.
“I still don’t understand how the top 50 list has 100 places,” — Facebook user Jon Narong on the announcement of two bars being listed on the World’s 50 Best Bars 2023 list.
4
French 11%
HOT OR NOT
“Imagine their surprise when they arrive in Thailand and then find out they’re already here ,” —
“Weakest drinks I ever had —
Italian 10%
Calm Down Canucks
Darkness, My Old Friend
A new spot for poutine, Bad Poutine, is causing a stir in Songwat. By ditching the cheese curds and embracing mozzarella and doing poutine Thai-style, the buzz about this spot is growing as they embrace this classic Quebecois dish with a Thailand and New York spin—and some not happy Canadians.
The rainy season is winding to an end, and we all know what that means: smog. This month will see the pollution back in Bangkok skies, and a few days in November already elicited warnings from the authorities. So, get the face mask back out— this time it’s for a different kind of plague.
Boil, Baby, Boil
Whoop! (There It Ain’t)
The London-born Boiler Room DJ phenomenon will hit Maho Rasop this December, and they recently announced a whole lot of Thai-born talent. Saturday and Sunday of the event will feature the likes of Zudrangma Records’ Maft Sai, Never Normal music director Jirus, Decommune resident, Thai-Swedish rapper Thaiboy Digital, and more.
Organizers of the Whoop Festival say that the Korean hip-hop event is no longer happening and that a new date would be announced at an unspecified date and location. No reason was given for the abrupt postponement. Even though refunds are being offered due to the sudden change, fans aren’t happy.
BK in brief
NO.834 I FRIDAY, NOVEMBER 30, 2023
Hell’s Kitchen Thailand
Fly to the Moon festival returns to Koh Mak festival to celebrate 10 years The quiet island of Koh Mak will host the 10th anniversary of the Fly to the Moon festival this coming New Year’s Eve—beats, beaches, and boats to round out the year. Running from December 29 to January 2, this year has an additional two days from last year’s edition. It’s more than just five days of DJs dishing out beats from sunrise to sunset. Look for yoga, cooking, frisbee golf, volleyball, kayaking, and coral planting. The bad news? It ain’t cheap. Second phase passes went for B7,755 for all five days and a boat party; sans boat it’s B7,155. The boat party alone is B2,155. It’s a festival and a beach holiday all rolled into one, a celebration of 10 years of sand and beats—with an obvious break for Covid. Koh Mak is a small, flat island between Koh Chang and Koh Kood. It’ll be a busy (and expensive) month for festival goers who can also look forward to the likes of Wonderfruit or the indie rock centric Maho Rasop Festival.
Ed Sheeran will come to Bangkok in February 2024 New tour dates were announced today for the Asian leg of Ed Sheeran’s Mathematics (+-=÷x) Tour today, and fans of the ginger crooner can look forward to a Valentine’s day treat with a show Feb 10, 2024. The record breaking singer and songwriter Ed Sheeran has some of the most famous and recognizable hits in the world, including “Shape of You,” “Galway Girl,” and “Thinking Out Loud.” This will be Ed Sheeran’s first show in Bangkok since his Asia tour in 2019. The concert, slated for Rajamangala Stadium, will also feature English singer songwriter Calum Scott, who played Bangkok last year as part of the Bridges tour. The Bangkok concert will be preceded by a Taiwan concert at Kaohsiung and then the National Stadium in Singapore for the Asia leg of this continent spanning tour from the artist. This announcement comes as Bangkok preps for a very big December of live shows, including the live music event of the year, Maho Rasop, which will kick off Dec 2-3.
The Undertaker
Hell’s Kitchen Thailand is looking for applicants for upcoming TV show
Thailand’s comedic horror ‘The Undertaker’ slays at the box office
The reality culinary competition that brings you television’s most memorable and memeable tantrums from celebrity chef slash host Gordon Ramsay— “Hell’s Kitchen”—is finally having an original Thai spin off.
The multi-genre Thai film “The Undertaker” (Sapparer in Thai) has become one of the highest grossing films of the year—raking in B400 million since its debut and the craze is still going.
The show, “Hell’s Kitchen Thailand” is set to be helmed by nutrition expert and chef Kwantip “Pom” Devakula and Singaporean chef Wilment Leong who owns the Thailand Culinary Academy. The production team tells BK that Hell’s Kitchen Thailand is set to premiere on February, 2024, airing on Channel 7 HD. T h e s h o w ’s w o r k p l a c e nightmare typically starts off by dividing contestants into two groups and pushing the aspiring chefs through a blend of goofy and anxiety-inducing challenges. The guilty pleasure is filled with contestant drama hitting commercial-friendly boiling points and hot-tempered celebrity chef Gordon Ramsay showering the hopeful underlings in a flurry of profanity-laden insults.
The film follows Cherd (played by Naruepol Yaiim), an eight year law student who returns to his small town to take the local bar exam. His father falls ill and Cherd must fill his father’s role as undertaker. The other side of the story focuses on Siang (played by Chatchai Chinsi) who is struggling to communicate with the spirit of his ghost girlfriend, Bai Khao (played by Sutida Buatig). With a film this popular, it might not be for everyone, but there’s certainly something for everyone. Instead of picking a particular niche, “The Undertaker” created its own lane by mashing up drama, romance, horror, fantasy, and comedy. The film shines particularly in the latter. The run time is filled with slapstick and dark comedy—going to places that you wouldn’t think could pass the censors. ●
5
cover story
Qraft
50 Bangkok spots to grab breakfast Up and at ‘em.
ARI / CHATUCHAK
= open before 8 am 6
Cose Club
Landhaus Bakery
Located on the ground level of a blue, multi-story art building is Cose Club. Here, you can enjoy a cup of coffee and some freshly baked bread. The three types of bread available here are focaccia, bagels, and toast, and all of the bread is vegan and homemade. Savory highlights include their homemade focaccia with shakshuka (B180) and their butterboard smoked salmon (B270) served with homemade cream cheese arranged like it’s on a canvas.
Landhaus translates to “tiny house in the country.” And that’s just how entering this little German bakery makes you feel. This hidden gem delivers its own European flavor and ambiance. They provide a variety of sandwiches and a nice selection of bread, including sourdough, baguettes, and pastries. Additionally, there is an extremely reasonably priced currywurst with french fries (B220).
Bar Storia Del Caffe On a Sunday morning, nothing beats sipping a glass of champagne or white wine, and there’s no better place to do it than Bar Storia. An elegant, retro-vintage cafe and bar that combines a traditional bistro with a modern
NO.834 I FRIDAY, NOVEMBER 30, 2023
NANA / ASOKE Brainwake Cafe
Cose Club
Bar Storia Del Caffe
It can be tough to find a place to have a quiet breakfast in Nana—especially on Soi 4. Brainwake Cafe is a rare pro breakfast spot and cafe in the Nana whirlwind featuring both international and Asian breakfast dishes. Get something local like the Isaan fried eggs with Thai and Chinese sausages alongside minced pork (B215), or go for something heartier like the salmon eggs Benedict (B285) and the Brainwake Big Breakfast (B425) which is a full brekkie, complete with ham, potatoes, mushrooms, beans, and more.
Gigi Cafe
Gigi Cafe
This is the “little sister” version of the popular Gigi Dining Hall and Bar. For breakfast, the cafe offers a range of fresh croissants, but you don’t want to miss out on the eggs alla Fiorentina (B290) or the Gigi Breakfast (B440) with two eggs alongside home smoked salmon, Italian cooked ham, avocado mash, and smashed chickpeas. If it’s your sweet tooth you need satiated in the morning, try their ricotta hotcakes with caramelized banana, honey, vanilla cream, and mascarpone
Iwane Goes Nature
Iwane Goes Nature
coffee shop with glossy wood panels and old green walls. There’s a large assortment of salads, Italian-style dishes, beverages and desserts. One of the greatest spots in the area for simple European flavors, try the al dente prawn penne (B290) and the oven-baked egg (B250) with a pan of italian sausage in a rich tomato stew.
Qraft Here on Ari Soi 1, the minds behind the zenlike teahouse Peace Oriental have ventured into the world of croissants. Qraft is wellknown for its fluffy, buttery croissants made using special Japanese flour and butter mixes that draw enormous crowds. Special fillings include a savory miso caramel and koicha (B145) while the plain starts at B75.
Brainwake Cafe
Eggtisan This vibrant red restaurant, owned by the same people who own the Common Room x Ari, is reserved for the real egg master who wants to create every imaginable variant of egg-based dishes in Ari. Try the runny eggs sandwich (B195) or the scrambled eggs (B170) served with smoked salmon bread. The coffee at this location is of a very high standard; basic beverages cost B90, while specialty drinks like espresso with milk cream cost B120.
Open since 2011, Iwane Goes Nature is still knocking out healthy breakfasts in Asoke. You can opt for the simple American breakfast (B165) of scrambled eggs with ham salad and toast or the Farmer Set, which features home fried potatoes with bacon and eggs (B135). It’s also a rare chance to get a little Korean breakfast (B165), here offering spicy Korean noodles with rice balls.
Breakfast Story Look, Breakfast Story is everywhere these days—Ploenchit, Asoke, Phrom Phong. But, now the Soi 11 crowd can get in on the action. Opening earlier this year, this favorite Bangkok spot for all-day breakfast is still serving up breakfast bites (with a few burgers thrown into the mix). It’s a big menu with everything from breakfast wraps to a three-egg omelet. And you don’t have to go in the morning; carbo load before you hit the Soi 11 clubs. >> 7
cover story
OLD TOWN / CHAROENKRUNG Chutie is Baking Having found success with her restaurant Sweet Pista, Chutima “Ae” Bovonratanachote opened Chutie is Baking as a playground to experiment with new recipes once again. One year after its launch, the cafe boasts succulent treats that will leave your sweet tooth begging for more. Must-tries include the lemon posset (B165) and various flavors of fruit parfait (B165).
Craftsman Roastery In its previous life, the century old European building that houses Craftsman Roastery was once used to print the Royal Gazette. Now, the retro bistro welcomes diners to try the in-house roasted mocha yuzu (B150), dirty coffee (B125), and spiced latte (B145) made from homegrown and imported beans. To pair with the drinks, opt for walnut pie (B135), creamy chicken pie (B150), or banana cake (B135).
On Lok Yun
Chutie is Baking
Punjab Sweets Want to try something new for your breakfast run? The Phahurat Indian coffee shop offers an endless variety of Indian sweet treats. Try out the crispy and flavorful paneer dosa (B100), the fudge-like barfi bites (B15), and cut the saccharine flavors with some freshly brewed chai tea (B15).
SIAM / CHIDLOM Chim Chim
Jok Prince
For those who want a little bit of nostalgia, this legendary 90-year-old breakfast spot is the perfect way to start the day. The cafe puts a Thai spin on Western style breakfast with the American breakfast (B65) but real fans will be there for the classic kanom pang sankaya, bread with Thai style egg-coconut milk custard (B28). The affordable lineup is not complete without their coffee which starts at B35.
8
Nothing beats a warm bowl of congee in the early hours. This restaurant in Old Town does Asian comfort food justice, marrying the base ingredients of smooth porridge with its signature smoky aroma and toppings such as century eggs and pork balls. The shop’s attention to detail uses high quality produce and in-house seasoning, making it worth regular visits. Prices start at B50-70 per bowl.
Chiewchan Panich Established in the 1950s, this is certainly one of those breakfast spots that cater hangover dishes for party-goers and the early-risers. The hidden gem also goes by the name “Thewet Boiled Rice’’ and is popular for its rare authentic Thai-Chinese cuisine. Stop by for the cinnamon braised stir fried pork intestine (B100), minced shrimp stir-fried in Chinese olives (B140), and have it with a bowl of boiled rice.
This art-inspired diner is made for all-day hangouts, delivering creatively upgraded handmade favorites for breakfast, lunch, and dinner. The space also holds motivational workshops and functions as a gallery exhibiting works of art by both up-and-coming and seasoned artists. The options for food and beverages are extensive, but these are our picks, the sweet and salty stax (B320) with crispy bacon, maple syrup, crispy bacon, and sunny-sideup pancakes, or the lobster rolls with lobster (B990), tiger prawns, mayonnaise, celery, lettuce, and a handmade shokupan roll for a more substantial lunch option. For a little indulgence, be sure to try the cruffins.
Eggdrop Featuring their famous premium fluffy egg sandwiches from Korea, Eggdrop Bangkok’s
NO.834 I FRIDAY, NOVEMBER 30, 2023
PLOENCHIT / LANGSUAN Cafe Tartine For the early riser, Cafe Tartine is a perennial favorite, open an hour earlier on the weekdays. It’s a family friendly, French, breezy atmosphere. The provencal omelette (B180) comes with eggplant, zucchini, onion, tomato, garlic, and emmental cheese, but don’t forget the Tartine Avocado (B310) with fresh Avocado puree, goat cheese, walnut, and poached egg.
Tempered
Eggdrop
store has shiny chrome accents and a redand-white color scheme reminiscent of an American diner. The store takes orders via kiosks, and we suggest the Mr Egg (B89), which is crunchy brioche, fluffy scrambled egg, and sriracha mayo. For something more filling, try the garlic bacon cheese (B129); the smell of the toasted garlic brioche alone will have you drooling.
Holiday Pastry in Central World
Hia Buay Ancient Noodles Hia Buay Ancient Noodles has been attracting office workers, celebrities, and tourists for 23 years, but the modest store recently received a boost from politicians, notably After Move Forward Party’s Pita Limjaroenrat, who ordered the Rich Tom Yum. The yentafo (Thai pink noodle soup), dry rice porridge, and braised pork kaprao are crowd-pleasers. Hia Buay also prepares dry meals for takeout, which are wrapped in traditional banana leaves to enhance the dish’s natural scent. Best of all, the restaurant is noted for its enormous portions and reasonable prices (B60-120).
Opening last year, Tempered is Bangkok’s cacao obsessed cafe, all the chocolate dreams of a passionate couple. The space on Soi Ruamrudee 2 is a renovated five-storey office featuring creative baked goods. Opt for the new cheesy bacon roll on their new menu or just stop by for your morning Joe. Their Chocolate Dirty (B225), you guessed it, is their famous hot chocolate topped with a strong espresso.
Ecole Ducasse Café
Siam Brasserie
Holiday Pastry has opened a new branch at Central World with a “Dining Room” concept, flouting Wes Anderson vibes with its sunshine yellow color scheme, archways, and large-scale lighting. They serve an allday hearty brunch and a dessert menu; brunch includes the New York spicy rigatoni vodka (B320) which seems to be all the craze lately (and for good reason). But save room for dessert and try their No.1 Signature Pancake or the Best French Toast Ever.
Siam Brasserie serves a broad Thai and International menu with a Thai twist in a charming yet spacious setting. The menu is influenced by many cuisines from the founder’s grandmother, and it serves simple, no-frills meals. So check it out whenever you want to eat like you’re spending time at grandma’s.
It’s not just classes and workshops at this chic spot for the next generation of chefs. This Nai Lert cafe opened with the school last year and features, as you might expect, an array of French dishes to zhuzh up your commute. Overseen by the spot’s head pastry chef, you’ll find surprisingly affordable bites here, from the croissants (B100) to the croque monsieur (B180). >> 9
cover story
Guss Ploenchit
Guss Ploenchit That’s right, Bangkok’s favorite ice cream shop does breakfast now. Guss Damn Good opened this shop in September. Along with their unique ice cream flavors and ingredient mashups, this Guss Damn Good is taking things even farther with a menu with sundaes, milkshakes, waffles, coffees, and savory slides. There’s the breakfast slider (B280), which is made with steamed egg custard and soft poached eggs, veggies, ham, and dijonnaise. For something classic, get a good ol’ PB&J (B135).
Treehouse Cafe.Bar
PHROM PHONG Treehouse Cafe.Bar Treehouse Cafe.Bar is a new hidden gem in Bangkok, where you can enjoy Thai familystyle dining in a venue that transports you to a tropical desert island. Share delicious dishes from their all-day breakfast, brunch, and lunch menus – a celebration of the best local produce and ingredients that are lovingly prepared – and sip their playful and seasonal beverages. Stay a little longer and relax at their treetop bar or alfresco terrace, where you can bring your furry friends along. Treehouse is the perfect spot to escape the bustle of Sukhumvit on Soi 31. It may be slightly eccentric, but it’s always fun, memorable, and affordable.
Brought to you by
Nick Tucked in Woodbury Common on Ruamrudee, Nick is a design forward, openearly spot for breakfasters in Ploenchit. Opening late last year, Nick’s chic look and big menu make it a must-try for breakfast lovers. They boast a French (B420), American (B450), and full (B480) breakfast alongside their spicy chorizo shakshuka. Pair all that with an iced yuzu matcha (B140) or a passion fruit sparkling float (B150).
10
Polli’s
Sukhumvit 71’s intimate cafe has become quite the rage, and the crew has finally launched their second location—this time, right in the middle of Sukhumvit. If you’re in the mood for a hearty meal, choose the Big Brekkie (B380), which comes with fried eggs, chicken sausages, smoked ham, spinach, mushrooms, and bread. Drinks-wise, consider the Black Coco (B130), which combines a shot of premium black espresso with coconut water and crunchy dates on top.
Larder BKK Chef Radek Zarbiski joined forces with chef Adrian Klonowski, formerly of Gaa, to open Larder, serving all-day sandwiches and coffee in an industrial atmosphere right in the heart of Phrom Phong. Earlier this year they launched a breakfast menu, dubbed Brekkie 2.0. Though simple the menu has depth and is infused with the chefs’ personal touches. Their guacamole topped with gooey poached egg and crispy rye crackers (B260), for instance, distinguishes itself from the regular mashed avocado by mixing it with coriander oil.
NO.834 I FRIDAY, NOVEMBER 30, 2023
Holey Artisan Bakery
Phrom Phong foodies, head here to grab your morning bread fix. The Bangladeshi owner, Nasirul Alam Porag, is a sourdough lover, and his unbleached flour loaves have a chewy, airy feel. After a butter croissant (B200) or beef pastrami sandwich (B800), make sure to get a slice of the dark chocolate cake (B600). The bakery also serves coffee and cold-pressed juice, which you can enjoy on the sidewalk in the deck chairs.
Kay’s (Sukhumvit 49) Obviously we had to include at least one Kay’s in this breakfast list. Be prepared to indulge in a chill and relaxing white-themed all-day breakfast cafe. Take a seat at one of the cool marble tables and grab the eggs Benedict prosciutto (B290) with poached egg, prosciutto, asparagus, and hollandaise sauce, or if you like a sweet brekkie lover, then you’ve got to try either the banana walnut pancakes (B270) or the ultimate french toast (B230).
BKK Bagels (Soi 33)
It’s hard to find a better bagel joint in Bangkok, and now they’ve got a spot in Phrom Phong. Choose from a number of different kinds of bagels and schmear for B50. However, the Breakfast Epic with Bacon (B215) which also comes with gruyere, gouda, or cheddar cheese is our favorite breakfast item—that bacon is just insanely good. You can also add some plain bagels and schmear of your choice. If you want something a little higher end, try the Lock, Stock, and Bagel (B250), which has house-cured salmon.
D’ark
Kuay Jup Mr. Joe
D’ark has made a name for its quality coffee and hearty brunch food. With its dark wood furniture paired with the brand’s signature leaf-embossed steel motifs. The brunch menu (available till 6pm) features eggy dishes like the smoked salmon eggs Benedict (B450) and Nordic breakfast (B490), with smoked salmon, scrambled eggs, avocado, ricotta cheese with lemon vinaigrette. For a more substantial lunch, try the baja fish tortillas (B590) or the jumbo tiger prawn spaghetti (B690) with romesco sauce, garlic confit, and jalapeno pesto.
This humble noodle shop remains a hit among locals in the Sathorn area. The titular kuay jup bowl (B80) features rice noodles in some rich peppery broth, topped with generous cuts of crispy pork. Customers can order the kao lao version (B80)—the same ingredients without the noodles. Also check out their list of chinese buns (B35), steamed dumplings (B30), and crispy pork (B80).
SATHORN / SILOM Not just another cup For those in search of a healthy meal to start off their daily routine, head over to this spacious two-storey restaurant that specializes in freshly brewed coffee, egg-based dishes, and cold press juice. Here are our recommended orders: a go-to croque-madame (B250) made from sourdough, topped with gruyere cheese, mornay sauce, sunny side up, with a side of herb salad. Or you can go vegan with the gluten free Acai Bowl (B240) consisting of banana, strawberry, almond milk, and superfood granola.
Taung Dim Sum A favorite for locals, this Chinese dim sum hot spot originally nestled in Nanglinchee road moved to Charoenkrung 89 at the beginning of 2023—providing ample parking space at the nearby soi. The experienced Chef Yip had tenures at five-star hotels, and they’re serving up affordable bite-sized xiao long baos (B55), rice noodle rolls with prawn stuffings (B65) drizzled with soy sauce, and more.
Fran’s Founded by the iBerry Group and famed Bangkok chef Chalee Kader, this Instagramready location is a departure from the company’s usual mall-located and niche Thai restaurant. The project is peacefully tucked away from the bustling Sathon streets, offering diners picturesque brunches that seem like they fall straight out of a cookbook. The most visually arresting dish has got to be the generous portion of bacon and scrambled eggs on toast (B390) drizzled with male syrup.
Teaory Teahouse This organic Taiwanese tea-themed cafe is decorated in a minimalistic style and presents an array of treats to soothe the senses. Stop by for the Japanese-style layered uji matcha cheesecake (B159) or the visually intriguing sesame milk mochi (B119) made from an authentic Taiwanese recipe. The drinks that you try are the “cloudy” selection which is basically tea topped with fresh in-house cream cheese.
Crema Cafe and Books
Situated not so far off Chong Nonsi BTS station, this artsy cafe is decorated with colorful tiles, arched doors, and curved furniture. It is famed for the caprese bagel (B160) made from the six-hour fermented Chiang Mai sourdough and the Japanese pudding (B130) topped with cream and cherry. Due to the owner’s personal love of literature, the spot is an attractive hangout for bookworms.
Just A Drink Maybe Sathorn-Silom natives might recognize this blue-navy hang out spot as a casual bar specializing in concocting gin-based drinks. After a temporary shut down due to the pandemic, this cozy venue is back up with a customizable breakfast menu. Start your day with a classic bagel sandwich. The G.O.A.T’ in particular offers a rich layer of cream cheese under crispy bacon, sunny sides, tomatoes, and cheddar cheese.
>> 11
cover story
Toby’s
THONGLOR Nico Nico Coming on the scene last year, Nico Nico in Japanese means “a smile,” and the spot is decorated in a mix of Japanese and Scandinavian, you’ll find fusion comfort breakfast dishes like curry scrambled eggs (B260) with soft bacon and homemade bread. For something lighter, try their wasabi crab toast (B260) combining chunks of crab meat with wasabi mayo. Try their Signature No.1 (B110), an espresso shot made with beans from Chiang Mai mixed with icy cold milk.
Okonomi
This one’s a must-try for anyone who wants a distinctly Japanese brekkie. At the twofloor Okonomi, there are two types of ichiju sansai options (B550 each): Misozuke Hamachi, featuring miso-marinated hamachi 12
(amberjack), and Konbujime Madai, with red seabream in a seaweed marinade. Each comes with a soup, pickled vegetables, rice, and tamago (Japanese omelet). To drink, choose from a selection of tea-based drinks, like a hot matcha latte (B140) made with Uji green tea or an iced hojicha latte (B140).
Caffe Olives
Toby’s Packed every weekend for breakfast on the “other” side of Thonglor, this space fills diners into an airy, sun-drenched spot for flat whites (B100), cold-pressed juices (B180), and egg-centric fare, all prepped with good produce and an eye for detail. Try the Egg Mikado (B320), sourdough topped with two poached eggs, cured salmon, and yellow hollandaise sauce. Don’t miss out on their “junkie” smoothies with the likes of strawberry banana date yogurt chia seed and banana espresso cacao nibs.
Earth House By The Earthling Cafe From the minds behind the unstoppably brilliant L’Olivia comes Caffe Olives, found at the same space. The all-day brunch fare here is good for an early breakfast too, with the likes of maple bacon sausage and eggs (B320) featuring greens, potatoes, and toasted focaccia or their Italian egg shakshuka (B320). If you’re there on the weekend, opt for the focaccia eggs Benedict (B350) with poached eggs, ham, and Hollandaise sauce. Coffees start at B390, and you can grab yourself a little brioche filled gelato for that morning sweet tooth (B220)
New to Thonglor this year is Earth House, formerly Earthling Cafe, founded by Samantha Häberli. You’ll find natural, ethical, and local ingredients with little or no processing. They feature favorites like avocado toast (B298) and a sweet smoothie
NO.834 I FRIDAY, NOVEMBER 30, 2023
bowl (B300) with bananas, seasonal fruit, homemade granola, and cacao nibs with shredded coconut. There is also a selection of pastas and salads alongside comfort dishes—including a signature burger (B320).
Bartels
Opened by a Scandinavian baker, the bakery has an airy, minimalist Nordic feel. With another location in Sathorn, stop by for sourdough loaves (B250), baguettes (B100), and breakfast rolls (B50), all made with no commercial yeast and naturally fermented for 24-48 hours. When they say fresh, they mean fresh. They guarantee that every loaf you buy is no more than three hours old. Don’t forget to add a cold-pressed fresh juice or coffee.
Pridi
Gusion Coffee Project
This mid-century cafe is refurbished from an old home, maintaining its comforting atmosphere. Wake yourself up with a perfectly brewed iced americano (B100) or get some drip coffee off their in-house espresso bar. The food department doesn’t miss, complete with a delicious chicken liver pate (B165), a favorite amongst customers that comes with homemade sourdough and fermented cream and strawberry jam.
This newly opened coffee shop is a great pick me up before and after exercising at the nearby Racquet Club. It has got a social media-ready stylish all-black interior design and is helmed by a head barista with over 10 years of coffee-making experience, including a stint in Australia. For an ideal combo, go for the signature Gusion Mocha (B150) and the smooth orange cake (B120).
EKKAMAI / PHRA KHANONG Kaizen coffee
Herringbone This one’s for the coffee lovers. This Ekkamai home style and Melbourne-inspired coffee culture club will provide morning fuel to last throughout your day. Check out the Kaizen Iced Coffee made from dirty coffee topped over vanilla ice cream (B160) and pair the drink with the vegetarian home breakfast (B385), a platter that includes your egg of choice, grilled mushrooms, tomatoes, and avocado.
Herringbone has helped diversify the breakfast lineup in Thonglor with its lineup of fusion and international cuisines. Sit in its shaded outdoor zone and have a cup of drip coffee (B160) with beans locally sourced from Thai provinces. Also, check out their modernist indoor space and enjoy the welcoming vibes over the Indonesian Mie Aceh (B290), Burmese Chicken Oops! (B290), or some good old Eggs Royale (B350).
De Nada Cafe Easily distinguishable by its green-painted walls and homey feel, the two-floor cafe is most known for its finely curated artisan pastries: Italian donuts, croissants, cakes, macarons, and more. Our breakfast menu recommendation is the cream of truffle mushroom soup (B280). The broth is boiled for 48 hours and served with a classic inhouse buttered croissant. The Good Vibes (B280) is another classic brekkie set that arrives with the buttered croissant (again), scrambled eggs, grilled sausages, crispy bacon, beans and tomato sauce. ● 13
14
NO.834 I FRIDAY, NOVEMBER 30, 2023
15
food & drink new & noted
Peppina
Alegria
Guss Damn Good opens a sit-down shop in Mahatun Plaza Get in line, dessert lovers. Bangkok’s favorite creative ice cream shop has finally opened a sit-down store in Mahatun Plaza. Guss Damn Good, which started as a small startup in Boston with co-owners Rarin and Natee, opened their fourteenth store at the end of September, Guss Ploenchit, giving Bangkokians a space to sit down and enjoy some Tokyo Mist or Feel So Good with some hearty cafe food. Along with their unique ice cream flavors and ingredient mashups, this Guss Damn Good is taking things even farther with a menu with sundaes, milkshakes, waffles, coffees, and savory slides. But, hey, no one’s looking. You can have ice cream for breakfast if you want.
16
Panetti, a new pizzeria from Peppina, comes to Emsphere this December One of Bangkok’s finest and most authentic Italian pizzerias, Peppina has garnered a well-deserved reputation in the Bangkok (and international) food scene. Now, they are expanding their pizza horizons to the upcoming Emsphere. Panetti is the latest creation from the award-winning minds behind Peppina. Located in the long-awaited Emsphere complex, the new pizzeria is expected to open its doors this December. Panetti will be located on the ground floor and is an intimate 14-seater. The restaurant’s design is by the talented MTM Design team, known for their work on establishments like the new Mod Kaew, Birdies, Fatboy Izakaya, and El Willy.
Terroir
Terroir wine bar now serves up French classics Terroir Expression, a French bistro and wine bar in Ekkamai on the ground floor of Terroir Bkk, a multi-floor dining concept, now offers a menu serving modern French comfort food, Burgundy style. The menu here is unpretentious and honest, not shying away from dishes like escargot and wagyu tartare while being bold enough to tackle classic dishes that leave little room for error: steak, fish, and duck. To start, try the hot goat salad (B550), with a classic combination of goat cheese, walnut, fig, and tomato, topped with balsamic sauce. For mains, we recommend the roast chicken with their homemade fries (B990); the whole chicken is grilled and stuffed with fragrant rice.
NO.834 I FRIDAY, NOVEMBER 30, 2023
TABLE TALK
Bar.Yard
Good to be BAD: Bar.Yard is a rooftop bar that has it all There’s a reason why Bar.Yard won our 2023 BAD award for the best rooftop bar
168 Yi Liu Ba
ISOLA BY SIGNOR SASSI
Many rooftop bars think they can get away with being mid if they offer stunning views. Not Bar.Yard, the winner of BK Magazine’s 2023 BAD (Bangkok After Dark) award for the best rooftop bar in the city. Bar.Yard is a vibrant oasis of South American cuisine and tiki-inspired beverages, where you can enjoy an American backyard barbecue with a twist. Feast on dishes like lobster and shrimp ceviche, smoked burrata cheese, and The Greatest Hits Platter, while sipping on drinks like Hot & Corny, Gin-Chee, and Betty in the Yard. Bar.Yard also features live music by DJs every day, creating a lively and fun atmosphere right on the 40th floor of the hip Kimpton Maa-Lai Bangkok.
Chiang Mai’s famous Khao-So-i has opened a branch in Silom
Multi-level dining 168 Yi Liu Ba opens in Yaowarat
This Chiang Mai-born restaurant concept originated during Covid-19 from a family recipe that slowly developed into a fusion cuisine. Taking pointers from the Japanese noodle preparation processes, such as ramen and udon, the aim is to boost khao soi’s visibility to an international audience and make the dish synonymous with other Thai food staples. At Khao-So-i, egg noodles are served with two methods. The first version is probably the one that khao soi lovers will be familiar with: ladeled in a steamy rich broth and a choice of meat. The second option is reminiscent of the stir-fried yakisoba, frying up the braised noodles with the restaurant’s secret sauce.
The newly opened 168 Yi Liu Ba in Yaowarat, nestled within one of the area’s historical buildings, is making the most of its rich heritage. The multi-level dining establishment, Yi Liu Ba (168, but phonetically “fortune all the way”) combines Chinese and Thai traditions and flavors. The restaurant is headed by internationally awarded Chef Por, who has crafted a menu that fuses Chinese and Thai cooking techniques; 168 Yi Liu Ba offers an all-inclusive dining experience under one roof, with a bar, restaurant, and a live music area. The restaurant’s interior design pays homage to the timeless allure of Old Town, with exposed brick walls and ceilings, leather seats, Chinese girl posters, and a dimly lit underground ambiance that makes you feel like you’ve traveled back in time. ●
Gaysorn Village, 999 Phloen Chit Rd. 064-532-6424. Open daily, 11ammidnight.
Fans of authentic Italian food will not hesitate to blow a chef’s kiss after dining at Isola by Signor Sassi, a fine dining restaurant that brings the best of Italy to the table. Whether you crave for a pasta dish or a seafood feast, Isola by Signor Sassi has you covered. You will be delighted by the authentic flavors of the signature dishes, such as the Spaghetti Granseola, the restaurant’s signature spaghetti crab dish; the Abbachio Ligure, a baked rack of lamb with red wine and mixed herbs; and the paccheri alla Boscaiola, a hearty dish with mushrooms, Italian sausage, and cream. And, as sweet as it is fragrant, end the night with the Lady Isola Mimosa, a sponge cake decorated with chantilly cream and mimosa petals.
Get a complimentary Special dessert valued THB 350 when spending THB 6,000 or more /sales slip on food only (limit 1 serve /card /table /sales slip, excluding VAT and service charge) Privileges are available to Citi-branded card members
1 Sep ’23 -31 Aug ’24 Terms and Conditions apply
Isola by Signor Sassi.indd 1
2/11/2566 BE 2:29 PM
17
food & drink open door
JHOL’S NEW MENU SCOURS THE INDIAN COAST FOR FRESH FLAVORS Tyler Roney
The buzz: For the quality and the price, Jhol is the gold standard for fine dining in Bangkok. When they came out with a new menu this year, the pressure was on to keep that reputation intact. They did. The menu has changed, but Jhol isn’t short of tricks, with an exciting new Indian tasting menu that plunders the coast but not your wallet. The vibe: You enter a sleek, carefully appointed dining area, with a sort of bright south Indian feel that leans to tropical chic—the intimate lighting turning the white walls gold. Part of the appeal of Jhol is that it’s a relaxed atmosphere. The food is serious, but that doesn’t mean you have to be. There’s a map on the wall of the Indian subcontinent; pay attention because you’re about to take a ride. The food: The new “Culinary Journey” tasting menu (B1,999) isn’t just referring to your palette. It’s a journey around the 7,516 kilometers of India’s coastline taking inspiration from Gujarat to Goa. The brainchild of chef the accomplished Hari Nayak, the new menu kicks off with a “prelude” featuring a crab pachadi with pineapple and caviar, beet chop and a delectable pani puri with a twist of avocado and passionfruit. Next up comes the Berhampur fried chicken, a dish that’s more complicated inside than out, with apple fennel slaw and a (quite) spicy potato dip, followed by the
18
Gongura ghee roast mamsam with Minburi lamb. One of the main takeaways—because you’re tasting it for longer than you’d expect—is the Calamansi sorbet, a limoncello topped with cardamom pods; you’ll be getting hints of that cardamom well into your next dish. After the herb-rich steamed fish in banana leaf (Patrani Machi), you move on to your main, or as they call it, the feast. Of the three options, we recommend the South Indian Alleppey fish curry—which frankly comes as a surprise as both the Coorgi Pandi curry and lamb chop are phenomenal. The drinks: In addition to their wine list, don’t forget to check out this spot’s signature cocktails. The Indian Porn Star is vanilla vodka, Amaretto, passionfruit, yuzu foam, and cardamom candy floss. The favorite was the OTT but simple Macha, Where Are You Da with Amrut single malt, butterscotch, and honey ginger cordial rimmed with chocolate, peanuts, and gold flake. Why we’d come back: It’s Jhol—that’s why you go back. If not to work through the rest of their cocktails, there’s a whole a la carte menu waiting to be devoured. There are few places in Bangkok that can provide you with such dining value, and you’ll find even fewer places with regulars who are as passionate. 7/2, Sukhumvit Soi 18, 02-004-7174. Open daily noon14:30; 5:30pm-9:30pm. ●
food & drink review
NO.834 I FRIDAY, NOVEMBER 30, 2023
TABLE TALK
SAMRUB SAMRUB THAI
VASO
★★★★☆
39/11, Soi Yommarat, Saladaeng Rd., Tues-Sat 5:30-11pm
It’s all about the ingredients right now. With an ever-changing seasonal menu that keeps regulars coming back again and again, you never really know what you’re going to get at Samrub Samrub Thai, but you know that ingredients are on display—literally. Before the meal even begins at Samrub Samrub Thai, diners are met with a palette of ingredients, some of which might be wholly new. Have you ever tried the latka tree fruit (Burmese grapes)? How about Indian nightshade (hairy eggplant)? The staff walk you through the bitterness of grape seaweed and pickled taro to get you ready for the main event. This venue comes from the mind of Prin Polsuk, formerly of Nahm and Sala Rim Naam, and his wife and business partner Thanyaporn “Mint” Jarukittikun, reopened just last year with their new space in Saladaeng. You walk to a stainless steel door that seems out of place in the hi-so neighborhood to a renovated 4-storey white house. The long black wood serving counter follows to a few more intimate seats in the back for dates and families. The venue opens to a busy kitchen to your left filled with chefs plating and chatting over Thai pop music. It’s a friendly space that’s not quite communal—and it really lets you concentrate on the food. In this case, the theme is seafood from the gulf. The first dish after your cuttlefish cracker snack is the grilled lobster with the grape
seaweed with chili and galangal dressing; this is a great way to set the tone because it’s delicate but with a spicy kick—not a fine dining kick, a real kick. But a favorite of the starters on this menu had to be the smoked grilled stingray with red rice yeast. The meat comes with a mild, coppery taste that pairs well with the fermented chili vinegar. With the seafood menu, the style is turning unique flavors into elevated fare, and then turning that into something approaching comfort food. An example of this is the coconut sour curry grilled pomfret; the wild asparagus berries, yet another underused ingredient, add an earthy, nutty taste to the floral hairy eggplant—all in a refreshing curry. Other dishes, such as the stir-fried tiger prawns with salacca and braised lotus root, can come off a little under seasoned though still satisfying. The dishes at this uniquely Thai stop elevate underused ingredients into carefully crafted yet simple, unpretentious fare with a high degree of creativity. The servings are cobbled together and elevated from old Thai cookbooks and made with care in the open kitchen, but the key to Samrub Samrub Thai is in the warm, family style. The house in which you’re dining, an upgrade from their former digs, is the home Mint grew up for 30 years. It’s fine dining with soul. ● Vaso.indd 1
Room A103, Velaa Sindhorn Village, 87 Langsuan Rd. 098-914-4664. Open Mon-Thu, noon-3pm, 5.30pm-midnight; Fri-Sun, noon-midnight
It pains one to say that it’s hard to find the vibrant true taste of Spain outside the Iberian peninsula. Luckily, diners can find just that, upscaled, at Spanish tapas bar Vaso. With a buzzing yet cozy ambiance, you can enjoy the culinary creations of Chef Alvaro Ramos, who combines tradition and innovation in his dishes. Go through the menu and you’ll find the truffle toast, a crispy bread topped with melted cheese and shaved truffles; las patatas bravas, spicy fried potatoes Madrid style; and the black paella, a rich and smoky rice dish with squid ink and seafood. Don’t miss the chance to try the oysters, fresh and briny, paired with a glass of cava, the Spanish sparkling wine. Indulge in the Iberian ham, the finest cured meat in the world, or the tomato toast, a simple but delicious appetizer. Finish it all with Vaso’s homemade churros.
Get a complimentary Special dessert valued THB 320 when spending THB 5,000 or more /sales slip on food only (limit 1 serve /card /table /sales slip, excluding VAT and service charge) Privileges are available to Citi-branded card members
1 Sep ’23 -31 Aug ’24 Terms and Conditions apply
9/11/2566 BE 10:21 AM
19
hit list The Warehouse is Bangkok’s newest community hangout in Charoenkrung The Warehouse is Bangkok’s latest multidisciplinary venue, having opened at the beginning of July in Charoenkrung. Keep in mind the establishment is separate from Warehouse 30. The Warehouse is a communitydriven space within a historical building where art, food, drinks, and music come together. In an era when the heritage of Bangkok’s Yaowarat is fading, Khun Suriya Sathiensri the founder of The Warehouse, is determined to revitalize the local area whilst retaining the essence of its local communities and businesses. Spanning 900 square meters and still a “work in progress,” The Warehouse has already hosted a series of events such as food pop-ups, flea markets, movie nights, and ever-changing art exhibitions. The atmosphere is thriving with people gathering at communal tables, socializing, vibing to music, and even bringing their furry friends along, all set beneath the fairy flights and neon-lit installations.
Thai fashion label Pipatchara headlines Dubai Fashion Week 2023 For its third collaboration with Dubai Fashion Week, Pipatchara was invited back as the opener for the sustainable fashion brand runway. Showcasing its spring/ summer 2024 collection, the homegrown label highlights practices of uplifting local communities and using recycled materials. The brand is the brainchild of the Kaeojinda sisters, designer Pipatchara “Petch” and Jitrinee “Tubtim” who oversees the sustainable side of the business. Last year, Pipatchara struck gold twice. First, when their macrame weavings and leather work came to the spotlight as actress Anne Hathaway was spotted holding their signature “mini amu” bag. Then, their Infinitude collection m a d e o f r e c yc l e d o r p h a n plastics received unprecedented attention due to the chain of color ful geometrical tabs, sparking a line of tantalizing bags, shoes, and clothing pieces. 20
Activewear brand Alo launches its first Asia branch at EmQuartier Want a chance to twin with your favorite Hollywood celebs on their day off? Well, now’s your chance as Emquartier saw the opening of Bangkok’s first Alo flagship store in November. From LA to BKK, the brand is a favorite amongst fitness lovers, especially in the yoga and pilates communities. Hollywood top names from the likes of Kendall Jenner and Olivia Wilde to Taylor Swift have been caught sporting Alo leggings. If you didn’t get a paparazzi shot, did you even actually workout? Since its inception in 2007, the LA native activewear and street fashion label has been keeping up with its mission to make clothing that goes beyond fashion and enters the realm of lifestyle and functionality. The range of items are easily styled up, and they’re sleek enough that you wouldn’t be embarrassed to throw it on for a midnight grocery run. ●
travel news
NO.834 I FRIDAY, NOVEMBER 30, 2023
24 HOURS IN CHIANG MAI: BREAKFAST, LUNCH, DINNER, AND DRINKS Whenever a long weekend comes around, both first-timers and repeat visitors make a beeline to Chiang Mai, and for good reason. Here are our go-to places to pay homage to Thailand’s cultural capital.
Vinita Chumsri
Breakfast: Graph Coffee This coffee shop is located in one of the city’s most popular areas, Nimman. Since opening in 2010, they’ve been supporting Chiang Mai’s coffee farmers, along with a seemingly endless variety of non-coffee beverages. We recommend the Magma (B130), a blend of espresso with avocado and almond milk. This might seem like a weird combination, but it works. The bitterness of the espresso compliments the sweetness and creaminess of the almond and avocado. For more of an after-meal indulgence, try the Holiday (B155), which features espresso, activated charcoal, vanilla milk, and panna cotta. The drink has black and white layers of charcoal and milk panna cotta; the espresso on top also highlights the interplay of hot and cold. Want a pastry to pair with your coffee? Try their croissants with different flavors like salted caramel, cream cheese raisin, and lemon honey. 41, Lane 1 Siri Mangkalajarn Rd., Suthep., 09-9372-3003, Open daily 9am-5pm.
Lunch: Kiti Panit Kiti Panit, led by Chef Pramlamon ‘Bus’ Suanton brings his unique expertise to his great-great-grandparents’ 1880s historical mansion, cooking authentic Northern Thai Lana dishes. The dishes include the intense and complex hang le (B350), which is a northernstyle pork curry that’s slowly simmered, giving
off a full flavor that’s slightly sweet, slightly tangy, and packs a punch. The nam prik ong (B170) is a chili and tomato relish that is served with a generous amount of vegetables and kap moo for some extra crunch. Their yam pakchi gai yang (B230) features a sour and refreshing Thai coriander salad paired with marinated grilled chicken. If you’d like to end the meal on a sweeter note, try their grilled caramelized mango with pandan sticky rice (B220), a smokey twist on traditional mango and sticky rice. 19, Tha Phae Rd., Tambon Chiang Moi., 080-191-7996, Open Wed-Mon 11:30am-3pm, 5-10pm.
Dinner: Blackitch Artisan Kitchen Blackitch Artisan Kitchen is an intimate 18-seater restaurant known to serve holistic localized artisan cuisine. The tasting menu takes its inspiration from the Monsoon season, aimed at pairing at least two seasonal ingredients for each dish, adhering to a leavesto-roots and nose-to-tail philosophy. The B2,590 dinner gets you 12 courses made with 100 percent locally sourced ingredients. Our personal favorites were the bread and wild mushrooms, crab and young jackfruit, and shrimp and green mustard dish. The holistic ingredient concept is apparent in the shrimp and green mustard dish, where the meat, shell, tail, and shrimp oil were all included in the dish. But be prepared to be surprised with every dish.
Also, for a little tipple, be sure to order their inhouse sake or hand-crafted beer. 2/F, Nimmanhaemin Soi 7., 093-695-6464, Open Mon, Wed-Sat 11am-2pm, 5-10pm.
Drinks: Thuub Bar Thuub Bar transforms a small space inside Thee Vijit Lanna Hotel into a warm-lit, intimate, Northern Thai-inspired speakeasy that makes you feel like you’re walking into a traditional village hut. All the drinks are made to honor some element of life in the Northern local villages. The menu is also like a story, where each signature cocktail includes a little narrative. For example, the thong suk (B360) blends Irish whiskey, Irish cream, durian, citrus, and sweet sticky rice. The shiny golden drink pays homage to durian, known as the “king of fruits.” The khao lang, with Thai rice spirit, hom ma li rice syrup, roasted rice, and tonic water, pays homage to the aromatics of Thai rice, with the drink incorporating infusions of three kinds of rice. Despite the diversity of ingredients, you would presume the drinks would be thick or creamy; however, they all maintain a clear and clarified consistency, showcasing their level of artistry and preparation. Thee Vijit Lanna Hotel, Chaiyaphum soi 2., 092-8027101, Open daily 6pm-12am. ●
21
last word
PLOYDAO THEERAVECH ON LE PETIT AND THE TINIEST FOOD IN TOWN Action films, Thai rock music, and miniature cooking are three things entrepreneur and chef Ploydao Theeravech does in her free time. The latter inspired a full fledged business, Le Petit Restaurant— using pin-sized cooking utensils to concoct Lilliputian dishes for us giants. In the four months since opening, the shop has garnered interest from kids and adults alike with a queue fully booked until February, 2024. Using the language of food to connect with people, Ploydao sat down with BK Magazine to speak about her passion project.
Sarisa Pokawattana
How did you get into collecting miniatures?
Where do you source these tiny utensils for the restaurant?
When I was young, my mother liked to collect tiny trinkets, and she’d often pass them down or buy miniature toys for me, especially cooking sets. I think many people grew up playing with these things or molding clay into miniature food. When I grew up, my interest became more specific. I mostly collect food and cooking-related items because that’s what I’m more into. I hardly throw any of my collection away and I still have a kitchenette toy set from my childhood on display in the restaurant.
Since I’ve been collecting from a young age, I actually had a lot of utensils ready to go. The miscellaneous decorations you see throughout the shop are souvenirs from abroad, toys from gachapon machines, and DIY projects. The kitchen structure here was constructed with the help of my interior designer friend. “Bigger” pieces of furniture like the fridge—made from actual stainless steel—is a custom order from Japan. The mini light fixture, which can be turned on and off, is from the US. The ceramic plates and glasses are ordered from Thai sellers. If you know where to look, there’s definitely someone doing miniature art somewhere. And It’s a lot easier to find these communities now that we have social media.
What made you decide to pivot from collecting to cooking? I’ve always enjoyed cooking with and for other people. Having been interviewed for my collectibles and having directed a mini series featuring edible miniatures for the Tourism Authority of Thailand, I have an idea of how to present the dishes. Through the years I’ve received some curious questions about this niche hobby. So I was inspired to take the miniatures out of the box, create some dishes, and have people actually try them out and play with my collection.
22
How did you pick out this location? In the workshop scene, there’s a culture of hosting events in private spheres like in the organizer’s home, airbnb, apartments... So I wanted a compact space that’s quite private. The one that I ended up renting is an empty small room. It doesn’t look like a living space. The floor plan kind of guides the eye toward the kitchen and window area. If you peek outside, there’s a lot of greenery and the vibe is very much like visiting a friend’s place.
NO.834 I FRIDAY, NOVEMBER 30, 2023
What are some of your sources of inspiration? I’m very inspired by Japanese miniature artists, especially Tanaka Tomo who’s part of why I want to create realistic edible miniatures in the first place. Even though his work isn’t edible, they’re incredibly lifelike, filled with details and textures. I’ve also been to some of these Japanese miniature exhibitions, it was all white-walls with a couple of pieces across the room. Everyone was walking around with magnifying glasses and it was so wholesome. What’s the process for creating courses? Coming up with a recipe isn’t so tricky because I already know some recipes off the top of my head from years of cooking. Because the creations are so small, when I design the menu I’ll try to highlight the dish’s key flavors and characteristics. Something that’s instantly recognizable. That’s partly why I chose to do Japanese food first. The challenging part of the job is figuring out what kind of food will look realistic when downsized. For example, chicken wings and rice—formed one grain at a time—are incredibly difficult. How are you going to create a small version of that? So I try to avoid them. Is it more difficult to cook miniatures than life size food? The food preparation process itself is quite similar to normal size food. Stuff like broccoli
and golden needle mushroom, I just have to chop it as small as possible. I also use miniature cooking utensils to control the portion and temperature. You can’t use a normal sized pot to boil tiny ingredients, they’ll just disintegrate! I’d say it’s definitely more time consuming to cook miniature food because I try to make it as realistic as possible. I also try to make everything look presentable because it’s a chef’s table. So far, how’s the customer’s reaction been? A lot of people have expressed that coming here is like entering another world, they feel very relaxed. My acquaintances were the first supporters, so the food was geared toward adults. Even the cooking tools are real materials you’d find in the kitchen like glass and sharp knives. Surprisingly, I received a lot of younger customers. So I had to adjust the flavors and add some safety precautions to accompany the children. I’ve seen some criticisms about the pricing, but the cooking supplies and utensils are life-long collections. Some of the pieces are from abroad, and overall it costs just as much as a standard sized restaurant. Are there any plans to expand the restaurant or the menu in the future? For now I’m not planning on hiring additional staff and expanding the shop just because I want to be able to tell the story first hand. I’m still managing the booking systems and I enjoy hearing the interest from prospective
customers. I think the biggest change would be allocating more time toward the restaurant, finding even more ways for customers to participate beyond cooking, maybe molding tiny ceramic plates and other trinkets. Give us a sneak peek of the next menu. I’m planning to change up the menu every couple of months. So in November, we’ll have a Thai cuisine line-up, but I’ll keep the flavor quite mild for the children. I’d like to try out fine dining as well but it would take a lot more preparation, and there isn’t a standard flavor that comes to mind when you think of “fine dining.” That’s something I’d like to figure out. What should customers take out of this experience? There’s something for everyone. I make sure not to overcrowd each session as I want everyone to feel comfortable in the space and really get the chance to see the food preparation process. If the parents aren’t really into the concept, there are other ways to involve them and create some family time. For example, I like to ask the children to help mix the okonomiyaki [Japanese pizza] batter and let the parents fry it up. I want people to feel a sense of peacefulness and focus on the task at hand. Playing with miniatures is such a relaxing and meditative experience. I want everyone who comes through the doors to find pleasures in the little things. ● 23
BANGKOK WEED MAP
This isn’t just any list, it’s the very best places in Bangkok to find dispensaries, cafes and lounges.
EVERY ENTRY CERTIFIED BY COCONUTS Q ua l i t y P r o d u c t s K n ow l e d g e a b l e S ta f f T o p L o c at i o n s
See the full list
Va l u e f o r M o n e y
Are you a dispensary owner who wants on the list? Reach out to us at piti@coconuts.co 24