BK Magazine 741 June22, 2018

Seeing Green Silom’s avocado-only cafe

it's free!

Imperfect Hosts Unloading Thailand’s Airbnb “ban” Wild Times Escaping the city in Chaiyaphum Fresh Perspective Stop your open wine tasting like crap Lip Service Making up with women prisoners Schools not tanks NO. 741 JUN 22, 2018. www.bkmagazine.com

What the street-food ban has really meant for Bangkok

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BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, JUNE 22, 2018

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Hot Spots Discover Thailand's best new resorts, restaurants, shops, spas, bars and more Coming in September

Don't miss your chance to be seen in Hot Spots

Call: 02-624-9696 Email: advertising@asia-city.co.th

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BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, JUNE 22, 2018

Who's in charge?

Managing Director & Publisher Andrew Hiransomboon

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Managing Editor Oliver Irvine Digital Director / Deputy Editor Carl Dixon Digital Content Coordinator Nontaya Kumyat Digital Content Assistant Pakchira Bunphol Writers Choltanutkun Tun-atiruj, Dhipkawee Sriyananda Selley Junior Writer Kankanok Wichiantanon

cover

Street food after the ban

Art Director Vatanya Bongkotkarn Production Supervisor Komkrit Klinkaeo Graphic Designers Anunya Chobnitas, Wirankan Saiyasombut Photographer Poonsawat Suttama Video Designer Saranya Laowtrakul Videographer Nattapol Srisukh Junior Video Editor Pattanagorn Adirekkiat Advertising Director Wanida Akeapichai Sales Managers Tipkritta Chiraporncharas, Orajira Sukkasem Senior Sales Associates Tassanee Mahamad, Nattaya Bovornsettanon, Orakarn Laohakanjanasiri Junior Marketing Executive Narabhutr Thaemsiri ASIA CITY STUDIO Managing Editor Dietrich Neu Associate Editor Sureepak Janyapat Senior Project Manager Chayanap Tongdadas Assistant Art Director Ratchprapha Sunthornprasat Project Coordinator Sirinart Panyasricharoen Senior Developers Passzarkorn Youthasoontorn, Wasan Wangrach Writer-Translator Tripop Leelasestaporn Junior Branded Content Writer Chakariya Cheewatara SOIMILK Editor Nathapong Suppavatee Senior Writer Rujiyatorn Choksiriwan Brand Manager Onwara Sittirug Sales Associates Prawpraew Pairohg, Kornkanok Sriwaranant Finance Manager Supaporn Bangmoung Assistant Finance Manager Anchalee Limkhamduang Senior Accountant Maneeya Kanthongdang Accountant Manita Bangmoung Admin Executive Yaovaluck Srisermsri Contributors Angela Symons, Kathy MacLeod Interns Apiphusit Jirattitikul, Caria Chanyanuch, Maturin Leethavekulsomboon, Nuttha Kitsopha, Thanita Cholpitakpong, Megan Leon, Sirada Nimcharoenchaikul, Wannaporn Bangsuanluang, Valaiporn Chalermlapvoraboon

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News Quiz We know. When there’s a World Cup happening and with Hooters just opened in Silom, it can be hard to stay on top of current affairs. But with a new budget in place and elections kind of, sort of, maybe on the horizon for sometime next year—or the year after—we’re here to test your news knowledge. Let’s go!

Why is Prayuth visiting the UK?

upfront

a June 2018 marks “Pet a Dictator” month for G7 leaders. b He looks vaguely competent when he stands close to Boris Johnson. c His latest song, “Diamond Heart,” has reached number one on the UK singles charts. d He’s going on a tour of Europe.

Helping women prisoners with lipstick

What was NLA vice president Peerasak Phochit’s reaction when questioned by the press over members caught napping during the recent budget?

08 hit list

Bangkok now has a VIP taxi service

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Cover design by Maturin Leethavekulsomboon

Asia City Media Group

calendar

Chief Executive Officer Greg Duncan (gduncan@asiacity.net)

Bangkok’s first biennial starts now

Director Gretchen Worth (gworth@asia-city.co.th)

a He blamed media ethics, mumbled something about reform, and blasted the reporters. b Nothing. His secretary told them to get back after 5pm, after Peerasak’s had his milk and cookies. c He pointed out, quite rightly, that getting a juntadesigned budget past junta-appointed lawmakers is not something that requires conscious participation from said lawmakers. d He immediately identified the offending lawmakers, all of whom were dismissed for gross misconduct.

What’s the one thing Pheu Thai leader Chaturon Chaisang and Democrat leader Abhisit Vejjajiva can agree on? a Hotel Art Fair really needed to sort out the mess with those elevators. b It’s less comfortable being a Red Shirt on Thonglor than a lone black man in Starbucks. c The junta’s 20-year national plan means that whenever elections do eventually happen, the military’s grip on power will remain absolute. d That the “Despacito” edit with Prayuth was pretty damn funny and needed to be shared.

Where to find us!

The Asia City Media Group Bangkok Asia City Publishing (Thailand) Ltd. 9/F, Sathorn Nakorn Tower 100 North Sathorn Rd., Silom,Bangrak, Bangkok 10500 Tel: 02-624-9696 Fax: 02-237-5656 Email: bkmagazine@asia-city.co.th

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17 food

Food delivery post-Uber

The economy is tanking. What are we doing about it?

BK “Asia City Living” Magazine is edited by Andrew Hiransomboon and published 51 times a year, every Friday of each month by Asia City Publishing (Thailand) Ltd. Copyright ©2016 Asia City Publishing (Thailand) Ltd. The titles “BK Magazine,” “BK ‘Asia City Living’ Magazine” and their associated logos or devices, and the content of BK “Asia City Living” Magazine are the property of Asia City Publishing (Thailand) Ltd. Reproduction in whole or in part without permission is strictly prohibited. Article reprints are available for B50 each.

The magazine may not be distributed without the express written consent of Asia City Publishing (Thailand) Ltd. Contact the Advertising Department for ad rates and specifications. All advertising must comply with the Publisher’s terms of business, copies of which are available upon request. Printed by Comform Co.,Ltd. 212 Moo 13 Krungthepkreetha Rd., Saphansoong, Bangkok 10250

a Opening no more than two omakase sushi counters per month. b Spending five-billion baht more on defence than we did last year. c Only buying new condos that come with free Huawei phones. d Spending our holidays in Hua Hin. At Baba Beach Club.

But only in the ground-floor suite.

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22

travel

trending

Escape to Chaiyaphum’s national park

Will you go to jail from Airbnb?

1 The correct answer is (d), although a photo we’ve seen from back in April proves (a) is pretty accurate too.

2 The correct answer is (a), which is more of an explanation than we got from the two most high-profile legislators, both of whom retain their positions.

3 The correct answer is (c), though the way things are going at the moment, the 20-year-plan will be over before elections even happen.

4 The correct answer is (b), starting with more new helicopters, according to Matichon Online.

see what’s happening

@bkmagazine

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6/15/18 8:26 PM

upfront

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, JUNE 22, 2018

04

HOT OR NOT

Beauty in the struggle: recycled lipstick is improving life in Thailand’s prisons

WINE The last time Bangkok did wine bars, it was a disaster. They invariably had a terrible pun in the name and served about four wines by the glass—all of which could be picked up in a 7-Eleven. We’re happy to report things have moved on a lot since then. Check out The Bar Upstairs and Kangkao for proof.

INTERVIEW

Alongside running a textile business, guest writing for The Standard and maintaining the SisWalk SisTalk beauty and lifestyle blog, Watinee “Lily” Chaithirasakul, 46, is also the mastermind behind a project that donates recycled lipsticks to women’s prisons across Thailand. We caught up with her at TEA activist space in Ari, where she explained her work.

“Life in there is just so sad.

Doing this gives them something to occupy their time.”

THAT’S WHAT SHE SAID

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How did you come up with this project?

I met a woman who was in prison under section 112 [lese-majeste]. At first, I thought she was a bad person, but after I got to know her I realized she just had different opinions. She was asking me for makeup for some other inmates who were political prisoners—I felt that they shouldn’t be in prison just because they have different ideas, they are still good people. So I wanted to do something to help them, mentally.

How can lipsticks help or improve the inmates’ lives?

Everyday life in prison is very dull and depressing and small things like makeup can brighten up prisoners’ days and make them feel better inside—I once read a book that said inmates who are allowed makeup have better mental health.

Are there any laws or regulations that say women can’t wear makeup in prisons?

No, there aren’t—it all depends on the director of the prison.

Are the prisons cooperative?

When I called Pattaya prison, they were like, “why are you donating lipsticks?” I explained it to them and they listened, understood and accepted us. Some others who have accepted the project include Central Women’s Correctional Institution and Trat Provincial Prison. But Thanyaburi District Prison has said no to us two years in a row now and Phitsanulok Provincial Prison also said no.

When they tell you no, do they also tell you why?

They just say that they don’t allow the inmates to put any makeup on. I don’t want to stir up

any drama; this project is about positivity, so I accept it.

What’s the situation like in Thai women’s prisons?

It’s very crowded from what I’ve been told; even towels get stolen and the food isn’t great either. There is a black market where a B69 lipstick would be sold for up to B300. Our project has successfully changed this situation.

What are the inmates usually like?

They are often really scared of the wardens. I don’t know how the prisons are run and they don’t want to speak about it. But the wardens aren’t exactly happy about their job either—it feels like they are locked up in there as well.

Do you have any personal stories on how this project has impacted women in the prisons?

I don’t know anyone personally in there and I don’t know who gets the products, but I do know people who come out and they keep encouraging me to do this, because life in there is just so sad. Doing this gives them something to occupy their time.

Is there anything else that we can do to help reform or improve prisons?

There are other similar projects including one

by Eveandboy. Raising awareness about our legal system is also very necessary, as sometimes good people are imprisoned for their beliefs. We should also think about how we can improve inmates’ lives once they’re released.

Choltanutkun Tun-atiruj

ART Enough time has now elapsed for us all to know that the Bangkok Biennial is something completely different from the Bangkok Art Biennale, both of which have nothing to do with the Thailand Biennale that happens in, of all places, Krabi. Go judge for yourself when the first of them kicks off this month (see page 10).

MANGMOOM CARDS Nine years after it was promised, the Mangmoom card— Bangkok’s answer to single-card urban transport—has arrived.

It does, however, have one big change to the card we were promised: you can’t use it on the BTS. Or the BRT. Or the ARL. Or any line that’s not the MRT. If the twelve-millionth round of negotiations work out, that might— might!—change by October, but only for the ARL.

EDUCATION “You know what could do with less money?

Schools” is the way no smart conversation started, ever. Still this year’s budget creams four-percent off the top of education while still managing a deficit of B450 billion and more cash for the boys in brown. And if you don’t like it, you can go and suck on some cold rice noodles in fish sauce.

by Kathy MacLeod (IG: @kathy_macleod)

6/14/18 7:54 PM

the list | avenue

BKBK MAGAZINE MAGAZINE FRIDAY, FRIDAY, MARCH JUNE 22, 16, 2018

Never miss a match this World Cup at these top Bangkok sports bars

Three cheers for football

Clubhouse Sports Bar and Grill The bar is located a 10-minute walk from BTS Asoke, hidden away from the Soi Cowboy crowd. It offers two floors, two projectors, 14 TVs and a private area to book. Add in that the vibe’s not as claustrophobic as your usual wood-paneled British pub plus a burger that’s the envy of other sports bars, and you’re cheering.

The deal: B125 for a pint of Singha during the games.

Sukhumvit Soi 23, 02-664-1376

Roadhouse Barbecue Bangkok’s original real-deal barbecue joint still pulls in a big crowd for its authentic, American-style woodsmoked ribs. Chow down on baby backs and beef brisket while watching all the match-day drama unfold. With three floors to choose from, you’re pretty much guaranteed a seat, too.

The deal: Speical price on Singha pints during the games.

942/1 Rama 4 Rd., 02-236-8010

Khaosan Center This old-school bar and restaurant is a backpacker haven, with a menu that charts Thailand’s greatest hits, a list of fruit shakes as long as your arm and pool tables galore. Seeing Brought to you by Singha

as Thailand’s failed to make the grade, here’s a chance to gather your gang and make like a tourist for a big night of World Cup action.

The deal: Buy three large bottles of Singha and get one large bottle free during the games.

80-84 Khaosan Rd., 02-282-4366

Herrity‛s Irish Pub They haven’t made the World Cup since 2002, but you can still invoke the luck of the Irish at this darkwooddominated pub just beside Phrom Phong BTS station. If you’re in need of a bite, the food follows a nightly theme: think Turkey Tuesdays and Burger Wednesdays.

The deal: Special price on Singha pints during the games.

Sukhumvit Soi 33/1, 02-258-3979

Am Bar This swanky rooftop bar lures beautiful people to its poolside perch atop the Four Points Hotel. The contemporarystyle setting blends Middle Eastern details, daybeds and house tunes for an energetic ambience in which to catch all the big games.

The deal: B99 for a pint of Singha during happy hour.

8/F, Four Points by Sheraton Hotel, Sukhumvit Soi 15, 02-309-3113

Old German Beerhouse This German restaurant and bar is all about beer, sports and lots of food.

Seat yourself indoors if you want live football action or outdoors on their balcony if you’d rather be smoking.

Either way, prepare to meet a lot of German national team jerseys.

The deal: B120 for a pint of Singha draft during the games.

Sukhumvit Soi 11, 02-651-3838

Superflow Aiming to bring a beach party vibe to sleepless Khao San Road, this open-air lounge slash nightclub is all sand-covered floors, thatched roofs and a soundtrack of laid-back house and reggae music. Join both the locals and fresh-off-the-boat travelers in cheering on your team.

The deal: Buy one Singha tower and get a small bottle of Singha free.

9 Khao San Rd., 086-088-0129

Mulli’s Located on the lobby floor of the Citadines Hotel Bangkok, this Sukhumvit Soi 11 sports haven is open 24/7. The decor’s what you’d expect from a standard Irish pub, though a little lighter on the heavy timbers, while the outdoor space is littered with beer barrel tables and tall stools.

Most importantly, LCD screens hang

05

from every corner so there’s little chance of missing the live action.

The deal: B99 for a pint of Singha during the games.

L/F, Citadines Hotel Bangkok, 22/22 Sukhumvit Soi 11, 02-255-5025

Flann O'Brien's As the name suggests, this is your archetypal Irish pub. The location out at Impact Arena makes it a popular pre-drinking spot before all the massive concerts. You’re also assured a long list of classic pub grub and, of course, big-screen sport. Even if the game’s not delivering the goods, the crowded beer garden delivers prime people-watching opportunities.

The deal: Spend B850 for a tower of Singha and get a premium gift.

1/F, IMPACT Challenger Bldg., Popular 1 Rd., 02-833-4288

Bully’s Pub You’ll never drink alone at this oldtimer, which is a favorite among Sukhumvit’s after-work crowds. The beers are ice-cold, the burgers are hefty and you can always grab a game of pool if your team’s down at half time.

The deal: B99 for a pint of Singha during the games.

8 Sukhumvit Rd., 099-616-0008

cover | food withdrawls

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, JUNE 08, 2018

Save Our Street Food

It’s one year since Bangkok’s street food “ban” came into effect. The world’s still turning, and we’re still eating ba mie on our lunch break—but not everything’s right with Bangkok’s sidewoks.

By Chawadee Nualkhair

WHAT DO THE VENDORS ON THE STREET HAVE TO SAY?

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L

ast year’s reports of a government plan to clear Bangkok’s major sidewalks completely of their street vendors caught the city unaware, arriving only days after CNN’s crowning of the city as “the world’s street food capital.” The food-loving world—with grilled pork skewers, wok-fried noodles and late-night bowls of rice porridge in mind—met the news with a chorus of dismay. Many criticized the move as a tragedy, a whitewashing of the local culture, and shameful treatment of the city’s working class who depend on cheap food to survive.

So when articles surfaced hours later exhorting the world’s foodies to relax because street food would remain untouched, they took on the tone of a Trump administration communications official backpedaling over “fake news.” Why would anything be announced at all, if nothing was to change? And if nothing had changed, why were vendors already being cleared from certain areas?

It’s now one full year since the “ban” came into effect, and the answers to those questions are beginning to surface.

06

Vallop Suwandee is chief consultant to the Bangkok Metropolitan Administration (BMA), and for over a year, the long-time civil servant has spearheaded the city’s current drive to “clean up” its streets of rogue hawkers. According to Vallop, initial articles announcing a comprehensive clean-up had been “misreported,” despite several media outlets directly quoting him outlining a ban on street vendors from the main roads of all 50 Bangkok districts.

The ban only concerned vendors with “temporary” permits, and “a minimum of vendors were affected,” he now tells us, adding that he is a fan of street food from around the Thonglor area. “The only concern from City Hall is that the food remains sanitary.”

But experts working with vendor groups and academics say that this isn’t the whole story. “It is clear that the ban isn’t just focusing on a small number of vendors or a particular neighborhood… it is affecting vendors all over the city, from a variety of backgrounds,” says Trude Renwick, a U.S.-based scholar working on her PhD dissertation on commercial space in Bangkok.

“The only concern from City Hall is that the food remain sanitary”

LEK, SHARK FIN SOUP VENDOR “I can’t afford to rent a shophouse. Prices here can go up to B300,000 [a month] for a space on the main road. I’ve already started seeing officers coming to regulate and it’s terrifying knowing we can’t do anything but oblige.”

NOK, PA TONG GO (FRIED DOUGH) VENDOR “I guess we should consider ourselves lucky that we are only getting regulated but not cleared. Right now, we vendors have to help each other. We have to listen to what they say: stop having stalls that stick out into the road, stop washing dishes on the road.”

JENG, JUI GUAY (STEAMED RICE CAKE) VENDOR “If you remove street food everywhere else, there will be a lot more people in Yaowarat and wouldn’t that make things even more disorderly? Plus, this is not the only tourist destination in Bangkok. Tourists want to go all over the city. They need street food elsewhere too.”

6/15/18 8:31 PM

the list | avenue

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BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, JUNE 22, 2018

CHECK LIST

“Personally, I think Bangkok should look like Singapore”

How many of these essential street eats have you tasted?

JAY FAI’S CRAB OMELET (B800) Start queuing yesterday if you want to eat this lifetime.

HERO TO ZERO

Bangkok street food first flourished during the ‘80s and ‘90s, when the city was under the tenure of former governor Chamlong Srimuang. “The BMA allowed vendors to conduct business on sidewalks in order to lessen the burden on family income,” Vallop says. “Pedestrians had no objection because the city of Bangkok was not so crowded.”

Today, he says that the clean-up of the streets is simply bowing to the will of the people, who complain that vendors are taking up too much space in a city of an estimated 8.5 million people. The areas most affected are the ones with the most number of complaints—Siam, Sukhumvit, Victory Monument and Saphan Lek. Vallop also confirms speculation that real estate developers are often behind the anti-street food movement, claiming that the presence of vendors affects their property values. Ultimately, he says he would like to see street food relegated to certain areas, as it is in Kuala Lumpur, Jakarta and Singapore.

“Personally, I think Bangkok should look like Singapore,” he says. Unfortunately, Thais make less money (a yearly average of US$5,911 per person according to the World Bank in 2016) than the denizens of Singapore (US$52,963), making access to cheap food more of an imperative.

But Vallop insists that the BMA is looking out for lower-income workers too. The subsois of cleared areas such as Thonglor are still open to food vending, and the outer areas of Bangkok remain unaffected. Yaowarat and Khaosan Road continue to be havens for street food-loving tourists. Shoulder-pole hawkers and mobile cart vendors who move from place to place are “welcome” to continue selling, he says. “But please do not come to Bangkok just to set up a food stall after harvest season. “You have to care for the general public and the land value of the shop-house right behind you.”

The BMA is also considering an incentive for developers that would allow them to construct higher buildings and increase rental space on the condition that they include a food court in their complexes incorporating street food vendors from the community.

All the BMA would like in return is a little thoughtfulness. Vendors “have to be considerate,” says Vallop. “The pavement is for pedestrians. You pay no rent, you pay no sales tax.

Please pay back to the community. We need to live together. We need to live in harmony.”

NUI, SOMTAM VENDOR “We’re poor. We can hardly afford to rent a home, let alone a shop-house to sell our food. The government needs to care about Thai people and Thai culture, not tourists. Thai people love street food. Somtam is our national food. People rely on it to be accessible everywhere they go.”

New_Coverstory_741_Jun 22_18_05.indd 7

TONY’S PALAK PANEER (B70) Curried vegetables and cottage cheese never tasted so good.

327 MAHA CHAI RD., 02-223-9384. OPEN MON-SAT 1:30PM1:30AM

WANICH SOI 1, PHRA NAKHON. OPEN DAILY 9AM-10PM

MR FAT’S MOO PING (B10) Every night, he gets through 40kg of pig.

SILVER LINING

Treating the vendors as a nuisance that must be tolerated and managed obscures the genuine good—and money—that they bring to their communities, aid workers say.

Sarah Reed of U.K.-based non-profit organization Wiego says the removal of street vendors from areas has actually cut down on foot traffic, adversely affecting the sales of surrounding businesses.

Vendor evictions in Pak Khlong Flower Market, Ramkhamhaeng Market and Sukhumvit resulted in across-theboard sales drops, lessened operating hours and even some closures for surrounding shop-house businesses, Wiego found. ”Before, I thought that this was a problem for the street vendors,” one business owner in Ramkhamhaeng told Wiego. “But now I know that the street vendors’ problem is my problem too.”

Business owners and vendors alike are now finding ways to be heard. In Ari, plans to clear the area were shelved when vendors banded together to form their own advocacy group. Meanwhile, a recent petition to the District Office signed by 30 Sukhumvit businesses is asking that the vendors be permitted to return to Sukhumvit Soi 11.

“The silver lining to this dark cloud is that vendors have gotten organized,” says Reed.

“There is now a network of vendors that can represent their own needs and interests, and communicate the incredible asset that vending represents to Bangkok’s economy.”

The cycle of celebrating and discouraging street vending is nothing new to long-time veterans of the street food scene like Sithidet Siripongwatoch of legendary guaythiew kua gai (stir-fried chicken noodle) stall Nai Peng.

The Sam Yan neighborhood he has worked in for the past 30 years has changed drastically since he first set up shop at 29, gradually giving way to an ambitious plan to form Thailand’s own version of “Silicon Valley.” Just a short walk from his bustling, open-air shop-house wreathed in wok smoke, newly-built Chinese-style shop-houses slicked in red paint mimic the buildings of Singapore’s Chinatown.

“We don’t plan on going anywhere,” said Sitidet of his stall, which won Michelin’s Bib Gourmand award last year. The closure of the nearby Suan Luang market and recent renovations have cost him up to three years’ worth of revenues, he estimates. All the same, “we’ll stay until they stop renewing our lease, and then move to the next street over.”

“Now I know that the street vendors’ problem is my problem too”

STREET FOOD IN NUMBERS

20,000

The number of street-food vendor working throughout bangkok

6,334 The number of vendors affected by the clean-up

Sources: Thailand Development Research Institute (TDRI), National News Bureau of Thailand

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The number of streetfood stalls with Michelin “Bib Gourmand” awards

60% The amount ot street-food customers who earn under B9,000 mouth

SOI CONVENT, SILOM, 092-280-8432. OPEN TUE-SUN 10:30PM-3AM

WATTANA PANICH’S BEEF SOUP (B100) The same broth’s been on the boil for 40 years.

336 EKKAMAI SOI 18, 02-391-7264. OPEN DAILY 10AM-8PM

PORN LAMAI’S RAD NA (B60-100) Even Gordon Ramsay couldn’t resist this sizzling dish.

PLANG NAM RD., 099-249-5414. OPEN TUE-SUN 6PM-2AM

MR JOE’S GUAY JUB (B50) Who needs salad when you’ve got deep-fried pork?

313/7 SOI CHAN 42-44, 02-213-3007. OPEN DAILY 8:30AM-4PM

NAI MONG’S HOI TOD (B70) Smoky, rich and packed with the biggest oysters of any hoi tod we know.

CONVENT’S YENTAFO (B50) Stand and wait your turn for a broth brimming sour, sweet and slightly salty flavor.

36/3 CONVENT RD., 02235-0386. OPEN DAILY 7AM-5PM

539 PHLAP PHLA CHAI RD., 089-773-3133.

OPEN DAILY 10:30AM9PM

TOO GUB KHAO KHONG MAE’S KHAO GAENG (B60-80) Coconut curries made using handpounded curry pastes poured onto GMOfree jasberry rice.

43 NANGLINCHEE RD., 089-900-3890. OPEN DAILY 5:30AM-2PM

6/15/18 8:32 PM

hit list | new reasons to love bangkok

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, JUNE 22, 2018

08

01

Endure the traffic in style with Bangkok’s new VIP taxis

TRANSPORTATION

One of Thailand’s biggest transport companies, All Thai Taxi Co, has released its first Mercedes-Benz VIP taxis onto the streets of Bangkok. According to the Land Transport Department, the starting fare for these luxury vehicles is a whopping B150 for the first two kilometers—five times more than the regular taxis’ B35 and three times more than Grab car, which starts at B60 and rises B5/km. The VIP fares are set to increase by B12/km plus an additional B6/min when stuck in the inevitable Bangkok traffic. Department director-general Sanit Phomwong has announced that All Thai Taxi Co plans to send thousands of Mercedes-Benz C Class sedans into operation, with at least 20 cars to be equipped with technology such as credit card readers, emergency buttons, GPS tracking, panoramic cameras and fare meters connected to a central control system. It is expected that 5,000 of these luxury VIP taxis will hit the road by the end of this year. If you’re wondering why you haven’t seen any roaming the streets of Bangkok yet, it’s because the company has only released 15 of them so far, with 85 more set for the end of August—very exclusive indeed! The VIP taxis will initially run in main business areas, covering banks, hotels and airports. You can book these VIP taxis through the Taxi OK app, All Thai Taxi app, @ allthaitaxi Line ID or by calling All Thai Taxi Co’s call center on 0-2018-9799.

Mercedes-Benz C Class

NUMEROLOGY

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ATTRACTION

FASHION

PHONES

02 Line fans now have an

03 This K-Beauty brand has 04 Huawei’s Y9 is the

indoor theme park

makeup junkies hooked

ultimate selfie companion

Turns out the Line Village Store that opened last year is just the beginning, as Bangkok has welcomed the world’s first Line digital indoor theme park, officially named Line Village Bangkok: The Digital Adventure. Across 23 rooms and three-stories, visitors can take pictures, play digital games and experience their favorite Line characters in virtual reality through VR headsets. Ticket prices for Thai nationals start at B650 for children and seniors, and B850 for adults.

For non-Thais, the cost is B790 for children and seniors, and B990 for adults. 1/F, Siam Square One, Rama 1 Rd., 095-503-6666

Trust the Koreans to know how to have fun with makeup. Cue Chosungah, the latest Korean beauty brand to hit Bangkok. Known for its game-changing products and super-kitsch packaging, the eponymous brand created by South Korea’s leading makeup artist, Chosungah, is all about creating a fun experience for women using beauty products. Stand out products include the mascara-like brow definer, Dong Gong Minn Brow Maker, from the Ver.22 line (B790) and the highlighter-shaped lip tint, Valkwang Pen, from 16Brand (B390). 1/F, Beauty Hall, Siam Paragon, Rama 1 Rd., 02-610-8000

What: Huawei Y9 2018 Price: B6,990 Who’s it for: Selfie enthusiasts Why? Don’t be put off by the low price—the Huawei Y9 2018 comes with an impressive double dose of front and rear dual cameras, perfect for capturing landscape and portrait shots alike. Speaking of portraits, the phone also boasts a 10-level beauty mode to help you perfect the ultimate selfie, plus you can animate your face with fun stickers and filters, while changing the backgrounds in real time with its AR lens. www.huawei.com/th

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30%

off

Paul Smith sneakers, Rag & Bone, Proenza Schouler

Gaysorn Village. 999 Phloen Chit Rd., 02-656-1149 Siam Discovery. Rama 1 Rd., 02-658-1000 Club 21. G-M/F, Siam Discovery, Rama 1 Rd., 02-254-2121

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Shop Talk How to spend your hard -earned baht.

BUY IT ISSEY MIYAKE TRUNK PLEATS BAG Tote bags are always on trend, especially canvas ones. Elevate even your most ordinary, lazy-day outfit with the latest from Issey Miyake.

BARGAIN BIN IT ADIDAS YEEZY BOOST 350 V2 It’s not 2015 anymore. Any self -respecting sneakerhead knows it’s the turn of the Yeezy 500. (Our tip: “Super Moon Yellow.”)

GLA PAMPERING BODY CLEANSER They have the same hip apothecary packaging, but while Aesop’s body wash makes our wallet bleed, Gla’s body cleanser can help us ace that expensive looking skin­—for cheap (B365).

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hit list | calendar

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, JUNE 22, 2018

Nightlife

01

EQUILIBRIUM PRES. MATT WILLIAM X WINTIX A night filled with house and techno mixes from DJs Matt William and Wintix. Jun 22, 11pm. Maggie Choo’s, 320 Silom Rd., 091-772-2144. Free.

Bangkok’s first biennial has finally arrived

KING LADY (VN) The Vietnamese DJ visits Bangkok to showcase her skills. Jun 22, 10pm. Insanity, Sukhumvit Soi 11, 082-7318885. B400 includes 1 drink.

BERLIN BEATS PRESENT MOODYMANC British DJ Moodymanc (aka Danny Ward) brings his smooth mix of classic sounds to the dance floor. Jun 22, 9:30pm. Glow, Sukhumvit Soi 23, 086-614-3355. B500 includes 1 drink.

SILENT VIBES - SEA LADY TAKEOVER AT GOJA The VIBE Crew presents the third installment of Silent Vibes, featuring Asia’s finest female DJs Mizuyo, Muiccia, Kade and Bplar, along with special guest DJs to be announced. Jun 22, 10pm. Goja, 5/2 Pridi Banomyong Soi 3, 086-774-7797. B100-200.

Bangkok Biennial (the first of three art biennials scheduled for 2018) kicks off on Jul 1-Sep 30. Setting itself apart from the other biennials, this anonymously-organized event will take a more underground approach, bringing together local artists Angkrit Ajchariyasophon and Mit Jai Inn, street artists TRK and Hideyuki Katsumata, and the forces behind underground art spaces like Bridge, Speedy Grandma and N22, all housed at 69 different “pavilions” spread throughout the city. Check out the full list of participating artists and galleries at bangkokbiennial.com.

Hideyuki Katsumata

FRED EVERYTHING TOUR 2018 The Canadian house DJ makes his way to Bangkok for his “Long Way Home” tour, supported by Alex Imix (Friends of Friends BKK). Jun 23, 9pm.

The Club at Koi, 39/F Sathorn Square Bldg., 98 North Sathorn Rd., 02-108-2000. Free.

FILM

02 There’s a whole week dedicated to queer cinema coming up On Jul 3-8, Bangkok Screening Room (Sala Daeng Soi 1, 094-125-9906) presents the LGBTQ Film Festival, a safe space for everyone to celebrate gender diversity, creativity and strength. This film festival will explore the different facets of the LGBTQ community through films, special events, talks, performances and even a special art exhibition. The films to be screened are: Signature Move (USA), Tom of Finland (FI), BPM (FR), Hard Paint (BRA), The Wound (SA), The Queen of Ireland (IR), The Adventures of Priscilla Queen Of The Desert (AUS) and Tales of the Lost Boys (PH/TW).

Look out for more program announcements on bkksr.com/lgbtff2018. Tickets are B300 for adults/B250 for students/ B240 for members.

FESTIVAL

03 Trance fans! Save

the date

The Queen of Ireland

Signature Move

Organized by TLT and MEEZ, the massive Genesis Festival will make its debut on Jul 7 at CenterPoint Entertainment (9, 11 Sukhumvit Soi 105, Lasalle Rd., 02361-9229). Journey through space-aged sounds of trance from world-class DJs Sneijder, Simon Patterson, BLiSS, Mark Sherry, Heatbeat, Bryan Kearney and Jase Thirlwall. The official pre-party and after-party are also set for Jul 6 and 8 at Club XS (Sukhumvit Soi 21, 062-171-5299), promising live sets from DJs Fady & Mina, James Dymond (producer set), Binary Finary and Paul Webster. Tickets are B1,800 on Ticketmelon. Visit genesisth.com for more info.

PLAN AHEAD

Tom Misch to bring smooth indie-R&B to Bangkok

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JANE MUSIC AGENCY PRES. PEKING OPERA AT MUSTACHE This new monthly series brings together DJs Peking Opera and Ekception for a night of deep house, electronic and melodic techno. Jun 22, 10pm. Mustache, 544/5 Ratchadaphisek Soi 7, 02-2745855. B200 includes 1 drink.

Event organizer Viji Corp has confirmed that British indiemeets-R&B-crooner Tom Misch is headed to Bangkok. His debut show is set to take place on Aug 25 at Moonstar Studio (701 Lad Phrao Soi 80, 02-539-3881).

With his soothing, coffee-house jazz sounds and R&B vocals, the 22-year-old solo artist already has

five albums to his name—Beat Tape 1, Out to Sea, Beat Tape 2, 5 Day Mischon and Geography— and a loyal following. His most recent album, Geography, will give you all the feels, echoing the emotional trauma of a break-up. Tickets are on sale for B1,800 on ThaiTicketMajor.

KITSUNE AFTERWORK Boogie to music from DJs The Whooligan, Butta B, Onjuicy & DJ Toy at the first edition of Kitsune’s worldwide afterwork party series. Jun 27, 7pm. Siwilai City Club, 5/F, Central Embassy, 1031 Phloen Chit Rd., 02-160-5631. Free.

TOM TRAGO The Amsterdam-based DJ and producer takes over the decks with his trademark blend of rhythms and genres. Jun 29, 9pm. Beam, 72 Courtyard, Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thonglor), 02-392-7750. B300.

YETI OUT Energetic sets from DJs Arthur Yeti and KYMC, supported by Manisfesto & K.A.D.E. June 30, 9pm. Beam, 72 Courtyard, Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thonglor), 02-392-7750. Free.

NITE RIDE AT STUDIO LAM Modern funk, boogie, disco and electro funk. Jun 30, 9pm.

Studio Lam, 3/1 Sukhumvit Soi 51, 02-261-6661. B200.

SO POOL PARTY Eight hours of “wet n’ chill” at this pool party against the backdrop of Lumpini Park.

Dance beats by DJs Sammy,

10

Natsha, Groove and Honey G. Jun 30, 1pm. The Water Club, 10/F, SO Sofitel, 2 North Sathorn Rd., 02-624-0000.

B600 includes 1 drink.

Live Music WEDNESDAY, OVERSTAY & SANGVAR DAY Performances by Cambodian alternative-rock band Sangvar, indie-rock band Overstay and noise-rock band Wednesday.

Jun 23, 8pm. Jam, 41 Charoen Rat Soi 1, 089 -889 -8059.

B200.

HO SHOWCASE MMXVIII Rock away with hardcore Bands Turnstile (USA), Hollow Treat (Singapore) and many more acts to be announced.

Jul 1, 4pm. About Studio, 35/20 Pradit Manutham Rd., 092-293- 9656. B1000 at www.fb.com/holdingonrecords. B1,200 on the door.

Classical THE JAZZ NIGHT BY BOBBY QUARTET The College of Music at Mahidol University presents the Bobby Quartet, with special guest singer Adam Chimmanee. Jun 22, 5pm. River City Bangkok, 23 Trok Rongnamkaeng, 02-237-0077. Free.

HARRY POTTER AND HIS MAGICAL FRIENDS Relive your favourite moments from Harry Potter with the film’s soundtrack performed by John Williams, as well as music from “Mahosadha: Architect of Dreams”

by Somtow Sucharitkul and Disney’s “The Sorcerer’s Apprentice” by Paul Dukas. Jun 23, 7pm. Thailand Cultural Center (Main Hall), 14 Thiam Ruam Mit Rd., 02-247-0013.

Tickets are B500-2,000 on ThaiTicketMajor.

ROSSINI 150 YEARS The Royal Bangkok Symphony Orchestra performs pieces from classic masters like Rossini, Bellini, Mozart and many more, conducted by Michel Tilkin. Jun 26, 8pm. Thailand Cultural Center (Main Hall), 14 Thiam Ruam Mit Rd., 02-247-0013. B300-1,500 on ThaiTicketMajor.

Theater CIRQUE DU SOLEIL TORUK: THE FIRST FLIGHT A live immersive multimedia performance bringing James Cameron’s Avatar to life. Jun 14-24. Impact Arena, Exhibition and Convention Center, Muang Thong Thani Popular 3 Rd., 02-833-4455. Tickets are B1,000-4,000 on ThaiTicketMajor.

PANTOMIME IN BANGKOK 15 Get ready to laugh out loud because Pantomime in Bangkok is back for its 15th time, bringing you performances by Asia’s leading mime artists such as Guri Guri Girl, Yamamoto Koyo, Babymime and many more. Jul 6-8. Aksra Theatre, 8 Soi Rang Nam, 02- 677-8888. Tickets are B900-1,500 on ThaiTicketMajor.

Art SPOTLIGHTS ON REZA DEGHATI Works by renowned photojournalist, Reza Deghati, who has worked for names like National Geographic and Time magazine. Jun 22 - Sep 1. House of Lucie, 1 Ekkamai Soi 8, 095-478-9987. Free. >>

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hit list | calendar

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, JUNE 22, 2018

11

SOIL - MUD Thai artist Chairat Sangthong reflects on Thailand’s agriculture and a simple way of life based on the cultivation of resources growing within his home soil. Jul 5, 6:30pm. Ardel Gallery of Modern Art, 99/45-46 Borommaratchachonnani Rd., 02-422-2092. Free.

Heineken’s euphoric all-white EDM festival is back

LUMINOUS Six leading artists from Silpakorn University, namely Chakrabhand Posayakrit , Preecha Thaothong, Suvichan Thaothong, Phong Sengking, Araya Rasdjarmrearnsook and Asanee Chooarun, examine the role lighting plays in creating art. Through Jun 27. 31 Silpakorn University, Main Exhibition Hall of Art Centre, 02-221-3841. Free.

RECKLESS Artist Tawan Wattuya takes a deep perspective on our contemporary society in his watercolour paintings, which play with dark humor to portray a world that is losing track of its ethics, morality and aspirations. Jun 30, 5pm. Toot Yung Art Center, Ekkamai Soi 2, 084-914-5499. Free.

Film (Opening Jun 22) THE 400 BRAVERS (THAI) Action. A film tracing back to the deep cultures and traditions of the Ayutthya era, where 400 people stood sideby-side to fight for their land.

Earning its reputation as one of Thailand’s most extravagant electronic dance music events, Sensation is making a comeback after a four-year hiatus. Its limited world tour is also set to visit Madrid, Prague, Singapore and Gliwice.

This year’s “RISE” theme will bring a sea of party-goers dressed all in white, along with international headliners like Dash Berlin, Mr. White, Sam Feldt and more. The event promises the ultimate euphoric experience on Jul 29 at BITEC (88 Bang Na-Trat Rd., 02-749-3939). Tickets are B3,500/B5,500 on Ticketmelon.

SICARIO: DAY OF THE SOLDADO (USA) Action/Thriller. The FBI sends a mysterious operative to the US-Mexico border to prevent the smuggling of terrorists by drug cartels, but all goes awry when their secrets are revealed.

SPORT

Run this Town! Mark the dates for these upcoming races

Vasan Sitthiket

Monika Anna Grycko

The Sahaviriya-Bangkok Triathlon is back this year on Jul 7-8. Swim, ride and run within the heart of Bangkok, with the option of three different race distances. Check out the race categories and register online at www.gotorace.com. Prefer to run through a scenic beach side city?

The Pattaya Marathon is set to take place on Jul 15, featuring five races: full, half and quarter marathons, a wheelchair marathon, and a 5km student run. Register now on www.pattayamarathon.go.th. Entry fee to be announced.

SUBMERGENCE (USA) Drama/Thriller. The story of captives held by Jihadist fighters, trapped in a room with no windows far away on the east coast of Africa.

SUPERFLY (USA) Action. A remake of the 1972 blaxploitation film Super Fly, which tells the story of Youngblood Priest, a criminal who wants out of the drug scene.

BEYOND THE EDGE (RUSSIA) Action. A gambler gathers a

OFF-CROSSED Pichaya Khunnawat explores his inner feelings, his surroundings and the current state of society in his abstract graffiti artworks. Through Jul 1. CASE Space Revolution, 2/F, Broccoli Revolution, 899 Sukhumvit Rd., 02-662-5002.

Free.

IMPRESSIONIST EXPRESSIONIST Artist Kade Javanalikhikara alludes to the deceptive mind through the simple uncertainty of nature. Through Jul 7. ARTIST+RUN, 2198/10-11 Narathiwas Soi 22, 099-4545955. Free.

METAMORPHOSIS A solo exhibition by Vimon Kaewmark, looking into the human mind and its multi-layered responses to environmental and social stimuli.

Through Jul 13. Bridge Art Space, Charoenkrung Rd., 089-666-2051. Free.

team of people with supernatural powers in an attempt to win big at a casino, however they soon find that there is a much stronger mystical rival in the works.

ANT MAN AND THE WASP (USA) Action. Two marvel super heroes, the Ant-man and The Wasp, come together in an urgent mission to uncover secrets from their past.

Screenings BANGKOK UNDERGROUND CINEMA AT NORM MARKET Screenings of emerging and unconventional films that may have been overlooked by mainstream media. Scheduled at bangkokundergroundcinema.com. Jun 30-Jul 1.

Dadfa, Lasalle Soi 33, 096885-8303. Free.

JAM CINE CLUB (JUNE) This month’s Jam Ciné Club presents 4 screenings of films surrounding the theme of “Problematic Cinema?”, which looks at American comedies from the ‘80s that have become part of today’s pop culture. The remaining film is Airplane! (USA) on Jun 27. Screening starts at 8pm.

Jam, 41 Charoen Rat Soi 1, 089-889-8059. Free.

Sanket Viramgami

ART

International Contemporary Art Residency headed to Hua Hin For the first time ever, the Nern Chalet Beachfront Hotel in Hua Hin (144/7 Nongkae-Takieb Rd., 032-655-211) will be hosting the International Contemporary Art Residency program, bringing together 12 well-known international artists and providing a space in which they can create artworks inspired by their stay in Thailand. The artists include: Stephen Anthony Bird, Ruth Li and Michael John Bell from Australia; Marc Janssens from Belgium; Sanket Viramgami from India; Monika Anna Grycko from Italy; Hideyuki Katsumata from Japan; Epjey Pacheco from Philippines; Ana Maria Couderc Arranz from Spain; Pham Huy Thong and Do Hiep from Vietnam; and Vasan Sitthiket from Thailand. This one month residency ends with an exhibition at River City Bangkok (23, Trok Rongnamkeang, Yotha Rd., 02237-0077) from Jul 11-19.

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travel

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, JUNE 22, 2018

12

Nature Calls Venture into the wild at one of Thailand’s best wildlife sanctuaries

If you want somewhere that’s easy to access and brimming with wildlife, look no further than Phu Khiao Wildlife Sanctuary. Known to be one of the most abundant wildlife spots in the country, this stunning park is located in the province of Chaiyaphum.

By Kankanok Wichiantanon

Stick to the Trail

Really Wild Things

Not to Miss

Where to stay

Phu Khiao Wildlife Sanctuary forms part of the 4,594-sq-kilometer Western Isaan Forest Complex. This huge area is home to three other wildlife sanctuaries and four national parks. With over half of this space comprising evergreen forest, it’s no wonder that such a huge array of wildlife still remains. To access most areas, you’ll need to seek permission from the DNP headquarters in Bangkok 15-30 days in advance—without this, trailing will be limited to a smaller area. Before you can wander out on your own, you’ll be briefed on all the trails, or alternatively you can opt to have a ranger keep you company for a cost of around B500-600 per day.

Warning: if you’re not an animal person, this is not the place for you! Reports suggest that there are over 111 species of mammal, 419 species of bird, 45 species of amphibians, 110 species of reptile and 76 species of fish.

Big mammals which can be easily spotted in the sanctuary include sambar and hog deer, macaques, golden jackals, white gibbons and elephants. If luck is on your side, you may even stand a chance of sighting gaurs, leopards, dholes, tigers and black bears—in which event, staying silent is highly recommended. Birds like Siamese fireback, golden crested myna and red-billed blue magpie are also often seen on the site.

Thung Kramang

If you’re planning on staying overnight, there are bungalows for rent at Hotels.com (B1,448/ night)—although they are not in great shape.

A better option is to camp in the provided camping grounds (by donation) but be aware that the sanctuary does not provide any equipment, food or water, so you’ll need to come prepared.

In this area, you can easily wander out on your own without a ranger. Surrounded by evergreen forest, the Thung Kramang grasslands offer a great opportunity to spot bigger animals like deer, jackals, and, on some days, elephants.

The Amazing Pool Only a short walk away from the bungalows, the Amazing Pool is host to a number of bird hides, making it a popular spot for bird watchers.

Mon Lake Mon Lake can be reached via a 5km hike, for which you’re required to have a ranger with you. Here, you can spot the endangered whitewinged duck.

How to get there There is no car service to get into the sanctuary, meaning you’ll have to have your own vehicle. Entry costs are B200 for foreigners, B20 for Thais and B30 for the car. The checkpoint operates from 8:30am-4pm. Reaching Phu Khiao is a six-hour drive from Bangkok.

REVAMP

Museflower Retreat

Overview: This rebranded retreat offers a holistic wellness experience that nails all the buzzwords: eco-conscious living, organic food, yoga, empowerment and, of course, the essential Himalayan crystal salt pool.

Rooms: The six cottages house 16 rooms in total, all of which are set around the front yard.

There’s no TV or Wi-Fi, just you, a comfy bed and inner tran-

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quility.They even encourage you to sleep with a fan so your body adjusts naturally to the temperature, though air-con is available.

Location: From Chiang Rai Airport, a 30-minute drive along bumpy woodland roads will lead you to this hidden gem, which is set amidst jungle, idyllic rice paddies and a glistening lake.

Facilities: Protruding out onto the lake is a jetty with a pavilion—the perfect spot for sunrise yoga and meditation sessions. Other facilities include a spa, fitness center and indoor salt pool. We love the cozy living room decked out in vintage style.

Rave: It’s affordable but still attentive and detail-oriented.

The small size of the retreat guarantees there will never be

too big of a crowd to disturb your downtime.

Rant: With AC scarce in most areas, the summer months can be unbearably hot—yoga, meditation and even functioning can be a challenge.

Dining: The vegetarian meals star eggs and veggies picked daily from the on-site organic farm—simple but delicious.

packages start at B5,800/person, which includes two yoga classes daily, holistic therapy sessions and meals. Four-day spa packages start at B5,800, including daily spa treatments, wellness classes (yoga, boxing or tai chi) and meals. musefloweretreat.com

The price: Four-day yoga

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travel

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, JUNE 22, 2018

13

CHIANG MAI

02 Ekkamai’s favorite

01

khao soi is taking on Chiang Mai

Enjoy the comforts of a luxury village at this Samui resort

02

Ekkamai’s much-loved Northern-Thai diner, Hom Duan (www.fb.com/HomduanChiangmai), has expanded to Chiang Mai city. Meaning ‘‘peppermint’’ in the Northern dialogue, Hom Duan is known for its lip-smacking khao soi, luscious gaeng hang lay and spicy sai oua—all made in-house from scratch. This new addition is set in an American-style country house with plenty of white paint and a spacious balcony that extends out over a courtyard all surrounded by fairy lights. A coffee shop lies within a glasshouse at the front of the building, where there is a long stool bar that makes the perfect place for guests to wash down heavy meals with refreshing drinks and desserts.

03

KOH SAMUI With the addition of 19 new pool villas to their existing 77 luxurious contemporary villas and suites, Santiburi Beach Resort & Spa (www.santiburisamui.com) is starting to look more like a village than a resort. Replete with all your home comforts, these new 250–square–meter villas each come with a private garden and pool, which connect seamlessly to the bedroom.

The interior is decked out in neutral tones and wood furniture, making for a bright and minimalist space. With rates starting from B12,552, what distinguishes these villas from your typical home is their impressive en-suite bathrooms, which feature a rain shower, a bathtub and a spacious walk-in closet to boot.

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RATCHABURI

SINGAPORE

03 Venture into the jungle for some sweet treats and fresh air

04 I’m on a boat!

Ratchaburi’s new woodland eatery, Tree Shade (www.fb.com/treeshadecafe), is a small cottage cafe set beside a picturesque pond amid the jungle. Inside, Tree Shade keeps it minimalist with a few long bar stools, a coffee counter and a dessert display. When evening comes, you can enjoy a coconut pudding beneath strings of fairy lights or savor a sweet bite of toddy palm cake with fresh whipped cream on a bench beside the pond.

There’s savory food on offer too, which puts a fusion twist on traditional Thai dishes.

The cafe sits around two-hours’ drive from Bangkok, in the district of Damnoen Saduak— the same area as the famous floating market.

Back for the fifth time, the floating music festival, It’s The Ship (itstheship.com), will once again set sail from Singapore, traveling through Phuket and eventually making its way back to its starting point. Taking place between Nov 4-7, the lineup is yet to be announced but for a cabin of two, it’ll cost up to B19,254 per night.

Besides the four days and three nights of live music, the five-star ship features waterslides, a bowling alley, a casino, mini golf and up to 35 restaurants/bars. The cabins are plush affairs, ranging from spaces for two people to a six-person duplex penthouse with its own sundeck and whirlpool.

Singapore’s floating music festival returns

6/15/18 9:08 PM

food & drink

14

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, JUNE 22, 2018

HOT OFF THE PASS

Notes from the Bangkok food scene

01

New head chef, new menu and new era for a Sathorn fine-dining stronghold

RESTAURANT REVAMP

When we heard that Stefano Merlo had taken over the show at Sensi, our mind naturally turned to his awesome tenure at Enoteca. Fans of that wickedly rich cuttlefish ink “cappuccino” and al-dente spaghetti in a punchy, clarified tomato sauce will be happy to know that they’re both present and on the latest Sensi lineup, but Merlo’s food is also growing in new directions.

In what Sensi’s terming its “Carta Bianca” (as in, to let someone do whatever they feel like), the chef gets to flex his creative muscle across seven (B2,690) or nine (B3,490) courses. These might involve eating beef tartare with your hands off of bark taken from the restaurant’s garden or tucking into a caprese salad whose “mozzarella” is actually a sugar sphere and “tomato” a strawberry coulis. Merlo reckons just two or three courses in each Carta Bianca sitting will come from the a la carte menu, while the rest is determined by a mini interrogation into each customers’ culinary fancies at the beginning of the meal. Our recent visit moved from a red prawn and scallop tartare atop a gin-and-lemon sorbet to a gloriously moist fillet of seabass dressed in courgette scales and two tender strips of rib-eye steak (the accompanying sauce as rich as any we’ve tasted). 1040 Narathiwat Soi 17, Yak 5, Sathorn, 02-676-4466.

Open Mon-Sat 5:30-11:30pm

EAT THIS

COOKING ROYALTY

CHEF BATTLE

02 Tables reveals its Michelin-star ambitions

03 The“Prince of Abalone” is coming to Bangkok

04 Vote for your favorite paella in a cooking show-down

If the rich, glossy jus that new Tables Grill head chef Hans Zahner spoons over your roasted lamb tenderloin is anything to go by, then his tenure at the time-proven Hyatt Erawan steakhouse should be a good one. In 2016, French-born Zahner led Peninsula Shanghai’s Sir Elly’s restaurant to its first Michelin star. In Bangkok, he’s hoping to do the same with a six-course tasting menu (B2,999) that’s all Kristal caviar, water carrot jelly and Gillardieu oysters—bold moves for a restaurant best known for USDA prime Angus and a killer lobster bisque. Grand Hyatt Erawan Bangkok, 494 Rajdamri Rd., 02-254-6250

Mandarin Oriental’s China House will welcome the "Prince of Abalone," Cantonese chef Guangfan Mai, between Jun 26-30. Chef Guangfan recently won the title of Southern King of Cantonese Cuisine, and the eight-course set dinner (Jun 26-29, B9,888) will showcase Tibetan black pork ham, Yunnan black truffle gel with Lijiang supreme caviar and a traditional charcoal–cooked “Sugar Heart” dry abalone. The grand finale on Jun 30 will see a Cantonese-French collaboration with Le Normandie’s chef de cuisine, Arnaud Dunand Sauthier (B8,888). China House, Mandarin Oriental, 48 Soi Burapa, 02-659-9000

Toro, the spanish restaurant located in Thonglor’s 72 Courtyard, will play host to the second edition of its quarterly “Paella on the Patio Chef Battle” this Jun 30. Watch Paolo Vitaletti from Peppina and Joseba Jimenez from El Tapeo battle it out in the one-night-only paella showdown, and put your money where your mouth is for B1,500 (including three glasses of wine from Wine Garage).

Paolo’s “Surprise Paolo’s Paella” promises a Roman-inspired recipe, while Joseba’s “Arroz Negro a la Vasca” will be a Basque-style black paella. After eating, vote for the winner. 1/F, 72 Courtyard, 02-392-7790. Open everyday 6-12pm.

YOU SAID WHAT?

The news in online foodie Facebook posts

New_Hit lists food and drink_BK 741_Jun 22_18_02.indd 14

“Even better they should make you opt in and charge you for it.”

RACHAEL STEVENS ON FOODPANDA’S NEW OPT-OUT POLICY FOR PLASTIC CUTLERY.

“Crema? Seriously?

That place sucks.”

VILLY BORIRAJ ON BK MAGAZINE CALLING CREMA BANGKOK’S BEST GELATO IN A BLIND TASTE-TEST.

SABAIDEE PASTE Paste Gaysorn is going nowhere, but head chef Bee Satongun is. She’s heading to Laos to open a Paste in the stunning Satri House hotel, as well as Australia for a Paste ther . FYI, if you’re a head chef looking for a job in a Michelin-star kitchen: Info @pastebangkok.com

TARTARE FOR NOW What you’re looking at there is Bunker’s new beef tartare, which comes with flavors of sunchoke paste, pickled garlic and can-I-take-this-hometo-bed-with-me. It’s part of a new sharing menu that has us thinking this is hands down one of the tastiest and funnest restaurants in Bangkok right now.

LOUNGE CORE Stop by Vogue Lounge this month as head mixologist Fabio Brugnolaro has added 20 new concoctions to the menu.

Among them is the ballsy Mr Brown—a mix of coffee, chocolate, rum and almond syrup that will be one of the tastiest things you try this week.

"what a great honor to welcome @jayfaibangkok and family to @ledubkk I have been eating at her place for so long!

Finally she comes to visit " @CHEFTONN OF LE DU ON JAY FAI'S VISIT TO HIS RESTAURANT.

6/15/18 8:51 PM

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, JUNE 22, 2018

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6/14/18 6:32 PM

dining reviews

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, JUNE 22, 2018

16

Hokkai-Don

Hokkai-Don HHH

Japanese. EmQuartier 6/F, Sukhumvit Rd., 02-610-7637. Open daily 10am-10pm. F BBB

This compact restaurant may not have the most enticing design but Hokkai-Don presents a decent sushi bar without the painful price tags. Despite the bland decor and dim lighting, its energetic staff lift the atmosphere with their cheerful spirits and attentive service. Hidden within EmQuartier’s sixth floor Helix zone, the restaurant asks that orders are placed via the touch screen available on every table and, with a mostly Japa n e s e c l i e n te l e, t h ey m u s t b e d o i n g something right. The extensive menu is impressive, offering a wide range of sushi, sashimi and rice bowls alongside fusion dishes such as their recommended unagi cheese roll (grilled eel topped with cheese on riceberry rolls, B300)—although the crispy grilled eel hits the spot, the sweet sauce drizzled on top is a little overpowering. The sushi menu starts at buta mentai (Torched pork, B30), coursing through to uni (sea urchin, B250) and Kobe beef (B250), while the big sashimi plate will set you back B2,300 for around nine items. The friendly chefs are happy to chit-chat, so you can get the low-

Crying Tiger HHH

Thai. Market Place Nanglinchee, 79 Nang Linchi Soi 3, 02-287-2786. F B-BB

Not all Isaan dinners can be sweat-soaked shirts and buttock-destroying plastic stools.

We have no shame in admitting our love for this city’s league of mall-dwelling , well-air-conditioned, easy-to-franchise Isaan joints such as this one. Crying Tiger is a recently-created spin-off from the Ros’Niyom Thai chain, and we strongly expect a mini army of these industrially on-trend little Isaan bistros to begin popping up at shopping centers citywide. We hope it happens sooner rather than later, because Crying Tiger has exactly what we want after an hour spent in the strip-lit sadness of Tops: flavor that hits you round the head. There’s a tum poo maa (blue crab somtam, B160) that’s salty and biting; a cucumber tum pla raa (fermented fish somtam, B75) that’s fresh, punchy and not for the weak of stomach; and a tum kai-kem (salted egg somtam, B90) that leads with a smack of acidity and goes easy on the sweetness—just how we like it. The tom zaap (hot and spicy soup, B145-265) is equally zingy and powerful, best-ordered with balls of white-pepper-laced

down on what’s fresh that day. The plate of mixed sushi (B260) comes with shrimp roe, crab stick, saury, red surf clam and deliciously fresh-tasting tuna. There are many different rice bowls on the menu, the most popular being Kaisen aburi don (rice topped with grilled seafood including scallops, eel, salmon, sable and salmon roe, B550). This dish comes in a large portion with perfectly-grilled, fresh-tasting seafood but was unfortunately let down by soggy rice and unpleasantly sour vinegar. The spicy salmon roll (B280) stuffed with avocado, tamagoyaki (sweet egg) and crab is topped with chunks of salmon dressed heavily in mayonnaise that could do with more spice—tasty but nothing special. An invigorating bottle of Nigorishu (B480)—unfiltered sake that tastes sweet and mild, with a slight fruity note—is the perfect thing to wash it all down. There are no desserts on offer as yet, only a promise that they are “coming soon” on the menu, but a chilled can of jelly plum sake (B260) makes for a refreshing, sweet and slightly tangy finish to the meal. For those who aren’t fussed about fancy interiors and mall settings, Hokkai-Don offers reasonably priced Japanese cuisine that is more than capable of rivaling big brands such as Fuji.

2018

BK Best Eats 2018 5th edition coming this August!

ground pork for B179. The name Crying Tiger comes from the literal English translation of suea rong hai—or beef-steak with spicy chili dip—so naturally you’ll be getting the Thai brisket (B170), and it’s here that you’ll encounter our only big issue with the restaurant: consistency. While one day your request for rare might be met with a juicy-and-pink center, another you’ll get a piece of meat whose time cooking has barely warmed it from the fridge. Don’t say anything at all and you may get your steak well overcooked. Likewise, a pork laab (B110) that sometimes has that just-right dry-and-toasty texture will at others be swimming in a pool of porky brine.

In fact, there’s a lot to turn the foodie snob off from a place like this. The music is ersatz, the decor plays by numbers—incandescent bulbs, faux-retro artwork (“since 2017,” really?)—and there’s about as much chance of anyone from Isaan eating here as there is of Pheu Thai losing a free-and-fair election.

While service is pleasant, we also wish you good luck in getting your sticky rice before you’ve nibbled away half the somtam. Still, so long as there’s grocery shopping to be done in the week, we’ll happily take all the Crying Tigers Bangkok can provide. It may lack a bit of character, but the flavors are bold and the seats are padded.

Ratings PPPPP Forget it PPPPP Only if you’re in the neighborhood PPPPP A pleasant dining experience PPPPP Not to be missed PPPPP Flawless

B BB BBB BBBB

Price guide Under B500 B500-900 B900-1,500 B1,500 and up

BK pays for its meal and does not call ahead or sit with the chef.

Price per person, including one drink, appetizer, main course, dessert, charges and tax.

Best Eats is the ultimate guide to this city’s buzzing food scene, with over 100 of our top “comfort food” picks – from ramen to dim sum, burgers to pizza, breakfast to dessert.

To reserve your spot in Best Eats 2018, contact our sales team at advertising@asia-city.co.th or 02-624-9696.

Symbols

Reservations recommended

Parking

Dress requirements Live music

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5/7/2561 BE 5:55 PM

6/15/18 8:53 PM

food

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, JUNE 22, 2018

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Feeling hungry?

Now Uber’s out of the game, how do the remaining Bangkok food delivery services stack up?

By Kankanok Wichiantanon

Illustrated by Thanita Cholpitakpong

1. Foodpanda

BK Pick!

Quick, easy and fast, Foodpanda’s reputation comes for good reason. But the user experience is not without its problems.

Promised delivery time: 40 minutes, and from our experience they stick to it.

Delivery charge: B40 • Restaurant list puts competitors to shame.

• Easy Facebook signup.

• Recently added street food.

• Reliable live support if you want to cancel your order.

• Delivery to all locations with no minimum order.

• New plastic cutlery opt-out function.

• No way to contact the driver directly until they call you.

• We’ve never received a satisfying answer from the instant messenger function.

2. Line Man

3. Now Food Delivery

4. Honestbee

5. GrabFood

Arguably our favorite delivery service. Most standalone venues that can’t be found on Foodpanda can be found here, with the added bonus that delivery extends out into metropolitan areas too.

If you’re constantly craving street food but can’t muster up the energy to venture out, this is the app for you. It also offers constant discount codes, sometimes giving as much as 50-percent off.

Though mainly for grocery delivery, this app also includes restaurants, bakeries and coffee shops, with a special focus on organic and healthy produce. You’ll be surprised to hear that even pet supplies are available.

Promised delivery time: 20-40 minutes.

Promised delivery time: 60 minutes.

Promised delivery time: 50–80 minutes.

GrabFood is likely to be your last resort when you can’t find the restaurant you want on Foodpanda, Line Man or Now. Sure, they do quite well on delivering packages and the price is very reasonable, but it’s just harder to use than its competitors and only available in limited areas.

Delivery charge: Calculated by the distance of your chosen restaurant.

The last couple of times we used it, the minimum we paid was around B90-100, even from Siam Square One to Chong Nonsi.

Delivery charge: B10 per 1km

Instant messaging: There’s no messaging—the order confirmation goes straight to your email instead.

• The delivery driver calls every step of the way.

• Covers nearly every restaurant on Wongnai.

• Access to street food stalls that aren’t on competitor apps.

• Notifications throughout the delivery process, letting you know when the driver has arrived at the restaurant, how much it will cost and approximately how long it will take.

• Over 14,000 restaurants to choose from, many of which are popular street-food spots.

• Food often arrives well under the promised time.

• No minimum order.

• You can place orders even before a restaurant opens.

• Big-chain fast-food junkies will be disappointed, as there’s very little of that on offer.

• Paying with credit card is still unavailable.

• Delivery can vary. Though it’s often super-quick, other times it can take the full hour.

• Steep fees for some restaurants.

• Most menus are in Thai and you may have to zoom in on some poorly uploaded ones.

• Unreliable map that often freezes, which can make it difficult to locate the driver.

Delivery charge: B70, or free if your order reaches the store’s minimum.

• You can shop from multiple stores in one order.

• Lots of delis on offer like Holey Kitchen and Maison Chatenet.

• If what you’ve ordered is out of stock, they’ll suggest suitable substitutes.

• The app always gives away promo codes for discounts.

• No instant message function.

• They send the order confirmation through an email that often goes straight to our junk folder.

• The delivery status sometimes fails to show on the app and the tracking system is unreliable.

• Sometimes the app refuses credit card details and you have to start over.

Promised delivery time: Depends on the location of the restaurant.

Instant messaging: Right after your order, you’ll be sent the driver’s contact number and then you’ll get real-time updates.

Delivery charge: Varies depending on the distance but it’s usually pretty reasonable.

• Direct contact with the driver (you get their number right after placing an order).

• Functionality within the Grab app.

• Prices shown on the app and the actual price that the restaurant charges vary—we’ve been slapped with much higher bills.

• We’ve ordered food before then been told by the driver that the restaurant’s closed.

• The map often shows faulty locations.

• You can only order from restaurants within a four-kilometer radius.

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Chefs from three countries combined their talents on Jun 6 to the theme of “Peranakan Cuisine with Thai Delight” at

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the one-Michelin-star Sra Bua by Kiin Kiin restaurant. Their resident chef, Chayawee “Berm” Sutcharitchan, teamed up with the restaurant’s founder, chef Henrik Yde Andersen of Kiin Kiin Copenhagen, and chef Malcolm Lee from Candlenut Singapore, to use out-there ingredients such as

the buah keluak—a poisonous nut grown within Southeast Asia’s mangrove swamps, fermented to remove the toxins.

Channeling the values of traditional Peranakan cooking—”patience, attention to detail and care”—the menu boasted a mouth-watering eight courses that fused the

traditional with the modern, including the pong tauhu shellfish bisque with prawn and crab tofu pork ball, bamboo shoot and prawn oil, and the nasi ulam and buah keluak rendang with wing bean salad. #CitixMichelinGuideThailand #EveryDishwithCiti

6/15/18 8:54 PM

food & drink | open doors OPEN DOOR

Aesop’s Greek taverna promises plate-smashing times The buzz: This next-gen rebirth of a family-run Greek restaurant from Sydney, Australia, conjures an ouzo-fueled party atmosphere unlike anything that’s come before it in Bangkok.

The vibe: Take a turn off tree-shaded Sala Daeng Soi 1 and you’ll find an old villa given a fresh lick of blue paint. All stucco walls, neon lights and wooden pew seating, the main dining hall is made for big, boisterous gatherings. “The inside is Athens, while the outside is Mykonos,” says Greek-Australian co-owner John Gamvros, referring to the courtyard that’s under construction. A kiosk will also open during the day to serve healthy snacks, but it’s at night where the real fun is to be had.

After dinner the place transforms into a dance floor, complete with plaster crockery which you’re urged to hurl at the ground.

The food: The spice-laden version of Greek food served here will appeal to fans of Middle Eastern and Mediterranean cuisine. Flavorful dips like taramasalata (fish roe with lemon and garlic, B100) and tzatziki (yogurt, garlic, lemon and mint, B100), served with billowing, fresh-baked pita (B100), set the foundation for a meal that’s

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made for sharing. Hefty mustorders include the eight-hour lamb shoulder (B1,500 for 250g), chicken souvlaki (B380) and moussaka (think beef lasagna with eggplant in place of pasta sheets, B350). You’ll also want to spare some room for the feta and olive-heaped Greek salad (B250) and their light and crisp spanakopita (filo pastries stuffed with spinach and cheese, B160). Tables of four or more can order the Happy Greek set (B980/person).

The drinks: Menabrea beer is on tap (from B130) and a slew of Greek wines are on offer (from B240/glass), while their cocktails play to the strengths of ouzo—the anise-flavored Greek national spirit—and tsipouro—a powerful pomace brandy. The Aphrodite (ouzo, rosemary-infused rum, Greek yogurt, mint, lime, strawberry and soda, B280) can also be ordered as a jug that serve four for B900.

Why we’d go back: Sala Daeng is buzzing and the plate-smashing party vibe at Aesop’s brings something genuinely different to town. Carl Dixon 120 Sala Daeng Soi 1/1, 062-567-7751. Open Tue-Sun 5:30pm-midnight

6/15/18 9:00 PM

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, JUNE 22, 2018

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BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, JUNE 22, 2018

The Steakhouse Co.

NEW AND NOTED

01 Patpong welcomes 02 Cultures collide a carnivore’s paradise at Sathorn’s new fine-dining spot In the midst of Patpong’s luminescent glow, a prime steakhouse has emerged that provides a welcome break from all the madness. Amid sultry scarlet cushions, dark-wood furniture and exposed brick walls, The Steakhouse Co. (9/8 Patpong Soi 2, Suriyawongse Rd., 061-0978325) serves an impressive array of premium steaks and chops, which customers can select fresh from the display. Their USDA Prime striploin (250g, B1,075) and 120-day dryaged Australian Black Angus sirloin (400g, B2,075) are enough to get any meat-lover’s blood pumping.

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The group behind the much-loved Roast and Roots, Think Beyond, has recently launched Ocken (Bhiraj Tower at Sathorn, South Sathorn Rd., 082-091-6174)—a cozy yet more refined neighborhood restaurant. Set within Sathorn’s hip Bhiraj Tower revamp, the eatery heads in a fine-dining direction with a lineup of Western-leaning dishes. Expect upscale creations like a vegetarian-friendly charred corn ravioli with tomato salsa, basil, avocado (B340) and the salmon belly hand roll with furikake, genmai mayo and smoked salmon roe (B420). There are also meatier dishes on offer, like the lamb rack with harissa yogurt, pickled red onion and hazelnut (B850).

03 A milkshake that’ll bring everyone to the yard Silom’s favorite ice-cream shop is now set to make its mark on Thonglor. Taking its cues from Boston’s vibrant ice-cream culture, Guss Damn Good Shakes (The Commons, G/F, 335 Thonglor 17, 093-109-9580) serves flavorful ice- cream shakes, including the smooth and creamy Fresh Milkshake (B220), made with their signature Don’t Give Up #18 ice cream, and the Pink Honey Citrus Shake (B220), which comes triple-loaded with Naughty Honey, Tokyo Mist (a yuzu orange sorbet), and Don’t Give Up #18 ice creams, with added beetroot for a pink hue.

TABLE TALK

Kuh Grill & Bar 14 Sukhumvit Soi 23, 089-927-2212. Open Tue-Sun 11am-2pm, 5pm-10pm. MRT Sukhumvit Located right in the heart of Bangkok, KUH Grill & Bar dishes out juicy premium meats piled high for very reasonable prices. Dig into some 75-day dry-aged US prime rib for a mere B320/100g or premium pan-seared diced ribeye beef with rice (B290). The generous selection of seafood means KUH also offers so much more than slabs of seared cow, like the grilled salmon with white wine and mustard wasabi sauce (B320) and the truffle scallop paste (B320).

Exclusively for Citi credit card members Get 10% discount on food only when spending THB 1,500 or more /sales slip (excluding VAT and service charge) Today – 31 Dec 18

6/15/18 9:00 PM

food & drink | taste test

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, JUNE 22, 2018

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Coffee Cones

Di Farina

NEW AND NOTED TABLE TALK

Spirit Jim Thompson 16 Soi Somkhit, Lumphini, Bangkok, 02-017-7268.

Open daily 12-3pm and 6-11pm. BTS Chit Lom Surrounded by lush green gardens, Spirit Jim Thompson offers a combination of unique and authentic recipes with slick, modern presentation to add a dash of polish. Opt for the mieng kham nam tan grob (B220)—a traditional Thai snack made from cashew nuts, ginger, coconut and tamarind glaze wrapped in betel leaves—or the pa naeng (Thai spicy curry) with pork ribs and ground peanuts (B430). For dessert, try the med kanoon sam yang (B320), which includes coconut cakes, jackfruit seeds and salty coconut cream.

Exclusively for Citi credit card members Get 15% discount Today – 31 May 19

Taste Test BK 741 Jun22_18_03.indd 20

04 Truffle dishes from the world’s truffle bigwigs

05 This Siam stall serves coffee in cones

06 Say hello to wood-fired pizza in Sathorn

Urbani Truffle Bar & Restaurant (39/F, Sathorn Square, Sathorn Rd., 02-233-1990) is the latest fine-dining experience set to take Sathorn by storm. Boasting six generations in the truffle industry and an impressive 70 percent share in the global market, they truly are experts in the field. Luxurious set menus (B3,9005,500) cater to both veggies and meat-eaters, with dishes including a truffle caprese, sous-vide lamb tenderloin with micro greens and truffle relish, and truffled-herb-encrusted lobster flambeed in brandy.

Our mouths are watering!

CoffeeCones (Centerpoint of Siam Square, 292 Rama 1 Rd., 065-2966653) serves Instagram-worthy coffee creations that may easily be mistaken for ice cream. Hot or cold drinks are served in an edible waffle cone, with various coatings and toppings (B59-89). Its creator, Davina Pickering (of Bangkok Supper Club, WWA and Iron Chef Thailand fame), claims that the chocolate coating won’t melt until you bite into it— we’d be skeptical if it weren’t for her impressive track-record.

The tantalizing smell of wood-fired pizza exudes from Di Farina Pizzeria (11 Sathorn Soi 12, 02-235-7127), Sathorn’s new Florentine-style, open-air bistro. Start with the pappa al pomodoro—a tangy Tuscan tomato soup (B280)—followed by their signature Di Farina pizza, with Italian sausage, capsicum, olives, quails eggs and fresh mozzarella (B580) bringing a medley of Italian flavors. Other tasty offerings include the pappardelle al pesto with basil and peanut (B380), and the bistecca alla Fiorentina with sumptuous Australian T-bone steak (B290/100G).

Head here Fri-Sat night for live jazz.

6/15/18 9:03 PM

food & drink | taste test

Who makes Bangkok’s best...

Egg Tart?

What do you prefer? The Hong Kong style with its glossy top and crumbly, buttery pastry, or the perfectly caramelized mottling of a Portuguese pastel de nata? Despite being universally loved, good egg tarts are still something of a rarity in Bangkok’s pastry shops.

We put the most widely available ones to the blind taste test treatment, and here are the results.

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BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, JUNE 22, 2018

Saint Etoile

by Yamazaki (B36)

BreadTalk (B30)

You don’t have to taste this one before being put off—just look at it. The overcooked, shriveled custard sits in a wrinkly shortbread crust that falls apart when you pick it up. We’d forgive it all this if the taste was great, which it isn’t.

Verdict: Hard to handle.

Though it wears its caramelized top with pride, the flavor just isn’t there in BreadTalk’s shortcrust-encased attempt at egg custard. The pastry isn’t as bad as Saint Etoile’s, but it’s still no match for what you’d find on the streets of Kowloon.

Verdict: This ain’t Hong Kong.

goo.gl/nHkqKx

www.breadtalkthailand.com

Yuck!

BK Pick!

Runner Up!

KFC (B22)

The voice of democracy has spoken.

This dubiously pale little treat got a loud enough cheer from our in-office tasters to drown out the one or two food snobs in the corner. It’s sweet but not too sweet, packed with a smooth custard filling, and encased in layers of pastry that even wear the typical pastel de nata swirl on the base. The taste is seriously eggy, but then what do you want from an egg tart?

Verdict: The people’s choice!

Tarts and Bread (B40)

On first glance you might mistake it for KFC, though the strong, eggy hit of sulphur tells us otherwise. The custard is dense but just doesn’t have the flavor to make us want more.

Verdict: A fast-food pretender.

Prachachuen Soi 27, 086-765-4041.

Open daily 8am-4pm

Ka Nom (B60)

Thick, buttery, flaky layers of pie crust prove that the Ka Nom kitchen knows exactly how an authentic pastel de nata should be done. There’s a swirl on the base, while the filling is lusciously creamy and balanced. This is as close to authenticity as Bangkok comes.

Verdict: One for the purists. www.kanomofficial.shop

www.kfc.co.th

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6/15/18 9:03 PM

trending

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, JUNE 22, 2018

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Room Wars Here’s what the Airbnb “ban” really means in Bangkok.

By Dhipkawee Sriyananda Selley

B1,500

Illustrated by TK

On May 10, news surfaced about a recent court ruling making Airbnb illegal in Thailand. A court in Hua Hin fined two hosts at the Wan Vayla Condominium between B13,000-15,000 in a case that has set a precedent against the American room letting application.

F

or Bangkok’s over-two-thousand Airbnb hosts, this came as a dramatic shock. Operating in more than 65,000 cities, 191 countries and offering three million-plus accomodation rentals, Airbnb has taken the world by storm—Thailand included. In 2015, Bangkok’s Banglamphu district ranked the second-highest-growing neighborhood in the world in terms of its popularity on the site. In 2017, the Din Daeng/Huai Khwang district ranked 11th most-trending neighborhood in the world with 218-percent growth in one year. According to the Bangkok Post, Thai Airbnb hosts have served more than 1.2 million guests in the past 12 months, earning between them four billion baht in supplemental income from Feb 2017-Feb 2018.

But the Thai Government and the Thai Hotels Association (THA) see the site’s business model as a disruption to Thailand’s hotel and tourism industry. According to media reports, a letter from the local authorities has been sent to the Wan Vayla Condo in Khao Tao outlining the court’s decision in two of three cases where condos were rented out for less than onemonth periods. The court ruled that renting out rooms via Airbnb on a daily or weekly basis is an illegal act if the renting party has not obtained a licence under the 2004 Hotel Act. “The Hua Hin ruling has made it clear that short-term renting on a daily or weekly basis to tourists is illegal,” says Chris Potranandana, a partner at the law firm Strathmore Litigation and Asset Management. “To make it legal, the hosts need to have a Hotel License.”

However, Chris believes the ruling will have little real-world impact on Airbnb operators in Thailand. “To be frank, most of the Airbnb hosts in Thailand will continue to rent out their rooms anyway because the penalty isn’t that severe—there is no prison sentence,” he says. “If caught, they just have to pay the fine, and to be honest, the fines aren’t that high.”

So what penalty can hosts potentially expect?

In the first Hua Hin case, the court ruled on Jan 5,

2018, that the host must pay a B5,000 fine plus an additional B500 for each day of a 20-day stay, resulting in a total B15,000 fine. The second case was ruled upon Jan 16, where a B5,000 fine was imposed in addition to B100 per day for 81 days’ worth of stays. The total came to B13,000. A third case is still pending.

Chris, however, doesn’t feel that hosts need worry too much about the courts coming after them—though he does warn that the new ruling could set a precedent for successful conviction that didn’t exist before. “It really depends how serious the Thai government is towards this issue,” he explains. “Since there are already two cases of fines imposed from the Hua Hin court, other provinces in Thailand can follow in the court’s footsteps and use it as an example for future punishments. Due to

term tenant instead,” they said.

Another Airbnb host, who owns a three-bedroom house in Thonglor and rents it out for B4,614/ night, felt that they didn’t need to worry, either. “I’m renting out an entire home, not a single room,” they said. “I’m the owner of the property and I’m not doing anything to cause trouble to society or anyone around me. But if there’s an actual law enforced, then I’m happy to abide by it.”

Chris supports this argument, pointing to a clause in the Hotel Act that exempts small residential properties. “Any residential premises that are open for rent with no more than four rooms and with a total service capacity of 20 guests is exempt from the Hotel Act,” he says.

The outlook, however, is more murky for those renting in condos. To obtain a license, they must prove they employ a qualified hotel manager, that they comply with the Building Control Act, and have a Building Permit and Use Certificate which states that the existing building can be used as a hotel. “The Hotel Act is very unsupportive to Airbnb’s business model,” says Philip.

So, is there any danger of an Airbnb-shaped hole in Bangkok any time soon? “Maybe it will become harder over time, similar to the way it became harder for Uber to operate in Thailand,” says Chris.

But unlike Uber, whose ride-sharing service moved out of Thailand in March 2018 after a buyout from Malaysia-born operation Grab, Airbnb doesn’t have any employees or business offices in Thailand.

We reached out to Airbnb for comment on this story and were told to contact the Singapore office, who didn’t reply to our calls or emails.

“The Airbnb business model is not illegal,” says Chris. “It’s the people who use it—renting out their places short-term—that’s making it illegal. Do these hosts know that what they’re doing is illegal? Probably. But as long as they don’t get caught, they’ll continue to rent out their rooms on Airbnb.”

“The ruling doesn’t scare me at all.

It’s usual for Thailand to freak out whenever somebody doesn’t understand the importance of innovation” this news, other condominium or apartment owners may report or sue his or her neighboring host if they are opposed to the idea of having their condo being rented out on Airbnb or are unhappy about the coming and going of Airbnb tenants.”

Among the Airbnb hosts we spoke to, we found both confidence and concern. “The ruling doesn’t scare me at all,” said one host who rents out her 42 sq-meter apartment in Phaholyothin for B1,500/ night. “It’s usual for Thailand to freak out whenever somebody doesn’t understand the importance of innovation and healthy business competition. I’m sure they have plenty of things to worry more about than just going after one of many other small hosts.”

However, another person we spoke to was less confident. “I will definitely stop Airbnb-ing just to keep my record clean. I’m turning to find a long-

*All names in this story have been changed.

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6/15/18 9:05 PM

neighborhood | Sukhumvit 16

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, JUNE 22, 2018

The U.S. Steakhouse

El Mercado

Sukh -umvit Soi 16 This soi might be one of the smallest offshoots of Sukhumvit, but it’s certainly one of the busiest—filled with convenience stores, restaurants, cafes, bars, spas, salons and pharmacies.

By Caria Bua-on and Vicki Chalermlapvoraboon

Invisible Coffee Room (25/8, Sukhumvit Soi 16, www.fb.com/ invisiblecoffeeroom) pays attention to detail with its house-blend coffees (flat white, B75) and its refreshing organic teas (B80).

Decade-old brunch spot, Kuppa (39 Sukhumvit Soi 16, 02-6630450) offers house–blends from northern Thailand (B120 for an espresso), alongside an all-day breakfast menu (Kuppa Breakfast, B295). 32 December Patisserie & Bistro (23/6 Sukhumvit Soi 16, 02259-4824) serves iced americanos (B75) and fancy mint lattes (B95).

Lunch, Dinner & Drinks

Pizzazo (188 Sukhumvit Soi 16, 02-663-8500, 081-699-7700) serves wood-fired thin and crusty Italian pizzas (margarita, B210, quattro formaggi, B350). The U.S. Steakhouse takes its beef seriously with comforting dishes like the barbeque ribs (B350/6 piec-

BK ASKS

KIM VISUDHAROMN, WRITER AND STYLIST

Which spots do you love on Sukhumvit 16?

“I go to Invisible cafe nearly everyday; they do a great cold brew and know all my orders by now. Also, opposite the street, the Took Lae Dee at Foodland is another favorite for no-fuss, Thai-style-greasyspoon classics that would make your trainer cry.”

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Pizzazo

Long Table

Ten-Sui

Coffee & Breakfast

es) and steaks including the Nebraska-imported Prime Rib (B1,190/500g). French bistro Bacchus & Co (150 Sukhumvit Soi 16, 02-258-0259) offers tomahawk steak (B1,998/1.2kg) and frogs legs (B390). On the fancier (and pricier) side, Japanese eatery Ten-Sui (33 Sukhumvit Soi 16, 02-663-2281) offers multicourse menus (B2,500-9,500) alongside a-la-carte options and an impressive selection of sake and wine. Known for its 24meter-long table that seats at least 44 people, Long Table (25/F, Column Building, 48 Sukhumvit Soi 16, 02-302-2557-9) combines communal dining with contemporary Thai food. Try their pomelo salad with steamed white sea prawn (B250), or their set menu (B1,290). It’s also one of the few bars in the area, offering wine (starting at B390) and cocktails (starting at B380) with stunning views. For more Thai, family-owned Baan Thai (186 Sukhumvit Soi 16, 02-663-2329)

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offers simple old-fashioned Thai hospitality, serving tom yum kung (B360) and phanaeng kai (B190).

The cozy La Cantina (25/4 Sukhumvit Soi 16, 02-259-6669) offers more Italian cuisine, including ravioli with lobster (B350) and chocolate salami (B140) for dessert.

The best of the lot is bustling El Mercado (490 Soi Phai Singto, 02258-1385), which has a deli stocking cheese and charcuterie, along with fresh imported seafood. Snag a seat in the courtyard and order from the blackboard for simple yet tasty dishes like New Zealand mussels in a rich, salty broth with crispy fries (B555), or the tuna tartare (B430).

Accommodation Right in the heart of Asoke, renting a place here could cost you anywhere between B20,000-80,000 per month. Open since 2010, S16 Residence (166 Sukhumvit Soi 16, 02-259-6613) offers 13 apartments in a house-like building surrounded by supermarkets

and restaurants for B25-55,000 per month. Voque condominium (Sukhumvit Soi 16, 02-663-2000) has 140 units, with monthly rent ranging from B18-50,000. Quest Development’s Trapezo Sukhumvit 16 (298 Sukhumvit 16, 02663-1995) is a newbie, having opened in 2014, with 70 units, starting at B22,000 or B60,000 for two bedrooms.

Transport Both MRT Sukhumvit and BTS Asoke are just minutes’ walk away. Win motorsais are also conveniently available throughout the soi, of course.

Community Throughout the day, local office workers flock to this area for lunch, while tourists and residents venture out at night for drinks and dinner. If you want everything on your doorstep, then this is the place for you.

LILY NUTTIYA WISOOTSAT, WINE MERCHANT

DONALD RAY JAMES, OWNER OF U.S STEAKHOUSE

“Ten-Sui is a top pick for Japanese expats bringing their VIPs. The price can be steep but the lunch sets are much more affordable. On weekdays, Soi 16 is a haven for street food.”

“Sukhumvit Soi 16 is offthe-beaten path, quiet and residential. My favorite spot sits right beside me, Bacchus & Co. I pop in for their imported cheese, cold cuts and authentic French cuisine. Another friend owns the Thai restaurant Cool Chillis. I go there after work for drinks with my friends.”

6/15/18 9:06 PM

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6/14/18 2:46 PM