LOCAL
WE GO BACK TO OUR ROOTS AND MEET THE MAGAZINE’S NAMESAKE – BIZZILLA, THE INTRICATE AND ICONIC MALTESE LACE.
WORDS ALICE BARNES-BROWN
BI Z Z I L L A MEETS BI Z Z I L L A REPUBLIC SQUARE IN VALLETTA IS PRESIDED OVER BY A FAMILIAR FIGURE. SUPERVISING PEOPLE AS THEY ENJOY THEIR AL FRESCO LUNCH, QUEEN VICTORIA SITS, WEARING HER DISTINCTIVE MINIATURE CROWN AND PERMANENT FROWN. BUT THAT’S NOT ALL SHE’S WEARING – LOOK CLOSELY, AND YOU’LL SEE THE BRITISH QUEEN IS SPORTING A LACE SHAWL. IN HER TIME, LACE WAS ONE OF MALTA’S MOST COVETED PRODUCTS, AND ITS REPUTATION FOR QUALITY AND DETAIL CONTINUES TO PRECEDE IT.
Lace (known as bizzilla) was brought to the islands by the Knights
Nowadays, you’d struggle to walk past a souvenir shop and fail
of St John in the 17th century, who had a penchant for the
to notice that every single one advertises ‘Gozo Lace’. Authentic
finer things in life. The elaborate silk threading accessorised the
lace might be hard to come by, seen only adorning couture bridal
garments of nobles and clergymen, and it was so popular that it
veils and church altars, but the Maltese are fiercely protective of
became a primary source of income for talented local women and
their traditions. Government and private institutions alike run free
their families. However, its popularity declined over the next 100
lacemaking courses to keep the skill alive, and there’s even talk of
years, to the point it was it was nearing extinction.
putting it on the school curriculum. The future might be uncertain, but one thing is for sure – so long as Queen Victoria sports that
Two people were instrumental in reviving the trade in the early
shawl, Malta will keep making its beautiful bizzilla.
19th century. The first was Emma, Lady Hamilton (the mistress of Admiral Nelson). Seeing that she may soon have to forego her
LACE AS THERAPY
lovely lace gloves, she imported lacemakers from Genoa, who
We meet Bibiche Rath, the Dutch-born visionary behind Ħajja - a
set about teaching Maltese women their craft. The Genoese
lacemaking collective aiming to improve the mental health of
mode of production made use of a tall pillow trajbu, parchment
marginalised women
templates and bobbins (combini), which was much quicker than needlework. Meanwhile on Gozo, local designer Don Guzeppe
WHAT INSPIRED YOU TO SET UP ĦAJJA?
promoted the skill, and the island developed its own style of
When my grandpa passed away, my grandma felt like she had
lacemaking.
no purpose, until she decided to start knitting. Here, she found her community.
Diligently, these women sat in their porches, frantically weaving lace to meet increasing demand. But there would be even more
When I moved to Malta, I took up bizzilla classes. While it did have a
work to come. In 1851, their best pieces were exhibited at the
very therapeutic aspect, it also helped me to integrate into my new
Great Exhibition of 1851 in London, where they represented
home, learning first-hand about the islands’ culture and traditions.
Malta – alongside clothing, jewellery and musical instruments.
It made me more focused and able to switch off, and it gave me a
British ladies took to the islands’ designs (which always featured the
new circle of friends. I wanted to share this experience with others,
Maltese cross), and orders flooded in.
in a safe space and positive learning environment.
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