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ESSENTIAL

FASHION ILLUSTRATION DETAILS


ESSENTIAL

FASHION ILLUSTRATION DETAILS


Contents

Introduction

6

Shirts Tops Blouses Vests & Sweaters

8

Skirts Dresses & Pants

52

Jackets & Coats

104

Lingerie Shoes & Accessories

134

DetaiIs

182

Fashion Schools Directory

192


6


Introduction Among the many components of fashion illustration, one of the most fundamental is the expression of clothing designs as flat drawings. Despite their apparent simplicity, it is necessary to pay careful attention to certain details that are often overlooked in order to convey the desired shape, volume, and texture of a particular garment. At the same time, the flat drawing proves to be an easier method of illustration than that of drawing three-dimensional human figures, offering the illustrator an equally effective, faster, and less complex way of expressing their ideas. Essential Fashion Illustration: Details is perfect for those looking to polish their drawing skills or for those who find difficulty in drawing the human figure and are searching for the right tools to express their clothing designs on paper. Covering an extensive range of garments including pants, skirts, dresses, shirts, jackets, swimwear, and underwear, this compilation of flat drawings provides a complete overview of the different varieties within each garment and features the styles that have been the most relevant throughout the history of the wardrobe. An essential part of any design, accessories like shoes and hats have also been included to aid designers in achieving the most complete design possible. Most important, however, the illustrations will serve as a reminder to pay attention to crucial details such as stitching, pleats, and wrinkles, which often make all the difference in lending a realistic character to a drawing. Flat drawings, although perhaps less visually attractive in comparison to other techniques, form an indispensable part of fashion illustration. A basic and straightforward representation of a garment as a flat drawing is the first step in expressing an idea for a design on paper, and given their simplicity, must be executed with perfection in order to convey all of the qualities and characteristics of a particular piece. Essential Fashion Illustration: Details intends to provide those looking to develop their own drawing skills with a practical and useful source of inspiration that holds the keys to mastering the art of the flat drawing in the world of fashion design. Ana G. Ca単izares 7

7


Shirts Tops Blouses Vests & Sweaters 9


Shirts

Shirt with smock stitch down middle

10

Draped neckline. Asymmetric drop. Wide-flared sleeves.


Shirt with draped traverse

Asymmetric and gathered front. Gathered shoulders. One sleeve with more gathered material.

11


Shank neck, 3/4-length sleeves, button and loop fasteners and gatherings at the shoulders.

Two pieces of fabric: one fin, long and gathered below the bust. The other compact. Button and loop closure.

12


Draped front crossing

Gathered turtleneck. Low knotted waist. American armhole.

13


Tunic tucked at the hip and gatherings below the bust

Ballooned with double fabric and gathered. Crossed straps on the back.

14


Mini-dress with two pieces of fabric: one finer superimposed and more compact at the bottom.

Ballooned. Gathered yoke.

15


Scoop neck. Fitted at the sides and 3/4length convex sleeves. Elastic cuffs.

Gathered with elastic in the center of the garment

16


Tops

Flared tops with trimming

Draped tops

17


Tops with stretched collar

18

Retro tops with belt


Bustier

Beaded tops

Bathing-style top

19


Tops tied at neck

20

Draped tops


Balloon top with straps

Empire-style tops

Top with crossed straps

21


Knotted sleeveless top

22

Chinese-buttoned top


Crew neck top

Top with stretched collar

23


Blouses

Caftan blouse

24

“Biarritz” blouse


Tie-neck blouse

Blouse with tied collar

25


Blouse with Victorian collar

26

Lace blouse with shirt front


Smock

Blouse with ruff

27


Wrap-around blouse

28

“Zingara” blouse


Bow tie blouse

Classic blouse

29


Denim shirt, front

30

Denim shirt, back


Retro blouse

Round-collared blouse with gathered sleeves

31


Ruffle-fronted blouse

32

Buttoned blouse with pleated breast


Victorian blouse

“Peasant” blouse

33


Vests

Thick double-breasted

34

Closed with wide ribbing


Closed and tight

Low-necked

35


Sweaters

Low-necked with 3/4-length sleeves

Classic

36


Classic cardigan

Twin set

Double-breasted

37


Loose and with tubular finishing

Classic thick turtleneck with wide ribbing on bottom and cuffs.

38


Fine turtleneck with raglan sleeve fashioning. Wide ribbing on bottom and cuffs.

Fine turtleneck with hammer sleeve fashioning

39


Ribbed turtleneck

40

Thick turtleneck, loose and low neckline.


Short dress with thick and loose turtleneck

Thick turtleneck with 3/4-length Japanese sleeves 41


Semifine turtleneck. Sleeveless.

Fine turtleneck with middle parting. Bottom and cuffs very wide. Loose fitting line.

42


Ribbed

With belt, pushed up sleeves and flat strip

43


With bow and flat strip

3/4 length and thick

44


With shirt neckline

Double-breasted

Small with tubular finishings

45


Thick

Very exaggerated finishings and unstructured thick cut

Fancy smoking cardigan with pom-poms and satin bow belt. 46


Asymmetric coat

Long and tied at the hip

47


Big and thick with button-loop closure

48

With high neck


Basic

With shank collar

49


With fur collar

With turtleneck and braids

Shirt collar 50


Shawl/Bolero

Very light, knotted and with overlock finishings

51


Skirts Dresses & Pants 53


Skirts

Pleated skirt

Scottish kilt

A-line skirt

Split skirt

54


Tulip skirt

Sack skirt

Poof skirt

Military-style skirt

55


Ballerina skirt

Ruffle skirt

Straight skirt with side tuck

56

Balloon skirt


Tie skirt

Cocktail skirt with ruffles and netting

“Boulonne�skirt

Skirt with side slits

57


“Godess�or toga skirt

Draped skirt

Profile view of skirt with ruffles on back

58

Creased cocktail skirt


Skirt with ruffles on the bias

Apron skirt

Creased skirt

“Peasant�skirt

59


Skirt with satin ruffles

Corolla skirt with welt seams

Skirt with gathering

60

Tulip skirt


Full skirt with gathering

Straight skirt

Skirt with sewn pleats from the hip down

Sarong

61


Straight skirt

Handkerchief skirt

Godet skirt Layered skirt 62


Fortuny skirt Can-can skirt with tutu

Denim skirt

Safari-style skirt

63


Dresses

Wrap dress

64


Empire lace Polo-shirt dress

65


Beach dress

Retro-blouse dress

66


Shirtdress

Dress coat

67


“Peasant”dress Uniform dress

68


Dress with cowl neckline and 1930s batwing sleeves

69


1970s retro dress

Halston strapless dress

70


Butterfly dress

Biba dress

71


One arm ruffled dress Folk dress

72


Gypsy dress

Draped nightdress

73


Fine halter-neck dress

74

Halter neck with metal hoop


Chainmail dress

Empire dress

75


A-line dress

Sack dress

76


Cocktail dress

Chinese dress

77


1960s dress coat Straight dress with 1960s geometric print

78


1950s bathing dress

Little black dress

79


Halter neck dress 1950s retro dress

80


“Sabrina”dress

“Marilyn”dress

81


Princess-line dress

82


Retro dress from beginning of twentieth century

Charleston dress

83


Pants

Classic pants, back

Classic pants, front

84


Jodhpur pants, back

Jodhpur pants, front

85


Fitted pants

86

Bombacho pants


Cargo pants, back

Cargo pants, front

87


Bell-bottom pants

88

Baggy pants


Detail high pants, front

Detail high pants, back

89


Capri jeans

Tight jeans

90


Wide jeans

Baggy jeans

91


Denim skirt

Denim Bermudas

92


Safari shorts

Samurai pants

93


Knickers

Pajama pants

94


Retro shorts

Sweatpants

95


1960s shorts

Poof shorts with tie

Shorts

96


Apron pants

Bermudas

97


Sarong pants

Cropped pants

98


Saruel pants

Capri pants

99


Leggings

100

Bombacho pants


1980s pants

Marine-style pants

101


Carioca pants

Fuseau ski pants

102

Halston jumpsuit


1960s retro pants

Cadet pants

103


104


Jackets & Coats 105

105 105


6

Tailored jacket, back

106

Tailored jacket, profile


Tailored jacket, front

107 107


8

Blazer, front

Blazer, back

108


Dinner jacket

Spencer jacket

109 109


0

Bolero jacket

Bolero jacket with Japanese sleeve

110


Hunting jacket

Mao-style jacket

111 111


2

Waistcoat for tailcoat Waistcoat, front

Waistcoat, back

112


Tailcoat

113 113


114

Frock coat with Mao-style collar Frock coat

114


Marine-style coat

Smart coat

115 115


116

Classic coat, front

116

Classic coat, back


Minimalist coat, front

Minimalist coat, back

117 117


118

Trench coat, front

118

Trench coat, back


Montgomery jacket, front

Montgomery jacket, back

119 119


120

A-line coat

Balloon coat

Raincoat

120


Retro-style coat

Flared coat

121 121


122

Bomber jacket

Military jacket

122


Safari jacket, front

Safari jacket, back

123 123


124

Leather bomber jacket

Patent leather 1960s coat

124


Baseball jacket

Bomber jacket

125 125


126

Barbour jacket

Double parka

126


Barbour quilted jacket

Parka insides

127 127


128

Parka details: hood, collar and pocket

Canadian parka

128


Fur-lined parka

Training parka

129 129


130

Anorak

Fitted anorak

Long anorak / ski jacket

130


K-Way jacket

Poncho

Anorak raincoat

131 131


132

Double-breasted cape

132


Frock coat, front

Frock coat, profile

133 133


Lingerie Shoes & Accessories 135


Lingerie

Thong

G-string

Tanga 136


Bikini

Bikini

Briefs

137


High-waist briefs

Lace panties

Boy shorts

138


Tanga boy shorts

Tube boy shorts

High and low French panties

139


DĂŠcolletĂŠ: foam-filled or molded.

140


Full center gore

Half center gore

Crossed center gore

Single-banded center gore

Center gore with inner sling

With washer

Double-banded center gore

With bow 141


Plunge with shoulder strap

Plunge with welt shoulder strap

Spaghetti or elastic strap

Balconette

Push up incorporated into the cup

Molded cups

142


Center gore with inner sling

Triangular-shaped cups

143


Bra with full center gore

Padded bra

144


Bra with center gore strap

Pleated bra

145


Strapless bra

Lace bra

146


Transparent bra

Cotton embroidery bra

147


Halter neck bra

Tube top

148


Sports bra

Sports bra, backs

Triangular-shaped bra

149


Bra top

150

Lace and satin bodice

Transparent lace bodice


Bodice with rounded neckline

Bodice with crossed laces

Strapless waist bodice

Garter belt

151


Bodice with garter belt

Ensemble of silk lace and tulle

152

Half-leg girdle

Ensemble of silk lace


Ensemble of superimposed pieces

Ensemble of tulle frills

Lace deco ensemble

Whole-body girdle

153


Tops

Gathered top

154

Cotton openwork top


Top with slits

Satin nightgown with 1920s-style lace

Body

155


Short 1960s retro nightgown

Romantic cotton nightgown

Transparent ensemble 156


Classic pajamas

Hooded bath robe

Hooded bathrobe with wide sleeves

157


Shoes From above

Profile

3/4

Multiple views of classic pump

158


Pump

Platforms

Two-colored slingbacks

1970s high heel

159


Open sides. Jewel ornament

Retro perforated pump

160

Beaded sandal

With sequins and netted flower


1970s sandal

Retro, gathered, and with strap

Evening sandal

Platform

161


Clog

Revived Japanese clog

Ballet flats

1970s clog

162


Exercise sandal

Moccasin

Flip-flop

Classic Oxford shoe

163


Sports shoe with and without Velcro

Beach shoe

Sneakers

164


Boot with fur

Boot with narrow leg

Cowboy boot

Calf-length boot

165


Accessories

Industrial bag

Bag with scarf 166

Small bag with giant buckle

Printed


Purse

Bag/briefcase with compartments

Bag with leather reinforcement

Padded bag 167


Retro

Classic

Baguette bag

Padded purse

168


Beaded bag with feathers Rigid backpack

Soft backpack Rigid suitcase

169


Executive laptop bag

Soft laptop case

Multi-zip travel bag

170

Suitcase with wheels


Bag with front pocket Laptop briefcase

Sports bag

Knitted bag with rigid handle

171


Nylon bag with lapel

Nylon bag

Nylon bag, closed and open

172


Soft bags

Leather bags

173


Classic gloves

Classic leather gloves

Fingerless Gloves Gloves with perforated Velcro

174


Plain gloves

Gloves with prints

Lace gloves

Mittens

175


Sunglasses

176


177


178

Broad-brimmed hat with flower

Cowboy hat

Hat with scarf

Top hat


Scarves, front and profile

1970s cap

Boys cap

179


Knitted hat

Earmuffs

Beret

180

Headbands


At waist

At hip

Belts

At waist, soft leather

181


Details

183


Tied waistband

184

Waistband with large pockets

Waistband with crossed waist

Waistband with belt

Fitted waistband

Knotted waistband


High multibutton waistband

High waistband without cut

Marine-style waistband

High old-fashioned waistband with straps

High safari waistband

Draped waistband

185


Military-style pocket with gusset 1

Military-style pocket with gusset 2

Military-style pocket with strap

Wallet

American breast

Military-style pocket with lateral gusset

Blazer shirt front

Hunting

Military-style pocket with gusset 3

Shirt front with wallet

Military-style pocket with gathering

Square wallet

Double

Chanel

Bag-style

Fancy pockets Front pockets

186


Normal fabric

Normal fabric

Rigid fabric

Rigid fabric

Heavy fabric

Rigid fabric

Gathered ruffles

Ruffles on the bias

Pleated

Panelled

Spiral-shaped

Pleats

187


Inside

Closed

Double inside

Outside

Gussets

Tucks

188

Tucks

Ruffles


Frills

Waist

Always find the drape’s direction

Bust

Drapes

Frills

189


Dropped

Japanese

Raglan

High

Sleeves Backs with straps

Lantern with frills

Fringe

190

Kimono

Bias

Pleated

Butterfly


Philippine

Lantern

Frill

Lantern

Draped armhole

Shawl-like

Ballooned strapless

High and buttoned

Knotted

Tie-neck Classic with gathering

Rounded

Bow-tied

Scarf

Denim

Retro

Bandana

Draped

Back gathered Blouse collars

Back denim

Blouse yokes

191


Fashion Schools Directory

Academy of Art University 79 New Montgomery Street, 4th floor San Francisco, CA 94105-3410, USA P: +1 415 274 2208 www.academyart.edu American InterContinental University 6600 Peachtree-Dunwoody Road, 500 Embassy Road Atlanta, GA 30328, USA www.aiuniv.edu Bauder College 384 Northyards Boulevard, NW Suites 190 and 400 Atlanta, GA 30313, USA P: +1 800 241 3797 www.bauder.edu Brooks College – Long Beach 4825 E Pacific Coast Highway Long Beach, CA 90804, USA P: +1 888 304 9777 www.brookscollege.edu California Design College 3440 Wilshire Blvd., 10th floor Los Angeles, CA 90010, USA P: +1 213 251 3636 www.artinstitutes.edu FIDM – The Fashion Institute of Design and Merchandising 1010 2nd Avenue San Diego, CA 92101-4903, USA P: +1 619 235 2049 www.fidm.com

192

International Academy of Design and Technology, Chicago One North State Street, Suite 500 Chicago, IL 60602, USA www.iadtchicago.edu Paris Fashion Institute 355 West Fourth St. Boston, MA 02127, USA P: +1 617 268 0026 www.parisfashion.org Parsons. The New School for Design 65 5th Av., ground floor New York, NY 10003, USA P: +1 212 229 8989 www.parsons.edu Pratt Institute 144 West 14th Street, New York, NY 10011, USA P: +1 212 647 7775 www.pratt.edu Westwood College 7350 North Broadway Denver, CO 80221, USA awarden@westwood.edu www.westwoodcollege.com


Copyright © 2007, 2011 by maomao publications First published in 2007 in the United States of America by Rockport Publishers, a member of Quayside Publishing Group 33 Commercial Street Gloucester, MA 01930-0589 Telephone: (978) 282-9590 Fax: (978) 283-2742 www.rockpub.com ISBN-13: 978-1-59253-331-2 ISBN-10: 1-59253-331-0 Digital edition: 978-1-61060-168-9 Softcover edition: 978-1-59253-331-2 Publisher: Paco Asensio Editorial coordinator: Catherine Collin Illustrations: Maite Lafuente Introduction: Ana G. Cañizares Art director: Mireia Casanovas Soley Graphic design and layout: Anabel Naranjo English translation: Bridget Vranckx Editorial project: maomao publications C/ Tallers 22 bis, 3º 1ª 08001 Barcelona. Spain Tel.: +34 93 481 57 22 Fax: +34 93 317 42 08 www.maomaopublications.com Printed in Spain

All rights reserved. No part of this book may be used or reproduced in any manner whatsoever without written permission except in the case of brief quotations embodied in critical articles and reviews. maomao affirms that it possesses all the necessary rights for the publication of this material and has duly paid all royalties related to the authors’ and photographers’ rights. maomao also affirms that it has violated no property rights and has respected common law, all authors’ rights and other rights that could be relevant. Finally, maomao affirms that this book contains no obscene nor slanderous material. Whole or partial reproduction of this book without editor authorization infringes reserved rights; any utilization must be previously requested.


Essential fashion illustration details