Nzira Issue 11

Page 1


Travel Zimbabwe

Cover Page


Adventuring GONAREZHOU $7


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From the Editor

Publisher Mike Garden +263 (0) 772 209 162 Editor Shannon Wilson +263 (0) 782 005 277

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Advertising Rudo Nhamoinesu Tel: 024 2782720

image Shannon Wilson

Did you know that Nzira means pathway/path/road in Shona?


he start of the new year and The beautiful area continues to offer our very first 2019 edition has us game drives galore, windswept hair, navigating old trails to witness afternoon sleeps that go on forever and different treasures and learning sunset drinks that are depleted faster about the new undertakings at the than the setting sun. In Mana, we have to colourful cliffs in the Lowveld. This is share our pleasures with the Ellies who in the hope that we can keep you all have found ways to get their trunks on entertained and travelling around our the tasty marula treats and Chris Collyer beautiful country. captured the moment for us in this issue. As the locals are aware, Zimbabwe This Nzira issue pulls from just a few of has something for everyone: like an artist the unique and wonderful places we are with his pallet, you can pick the place that so fortunate to have at our back door paints your perfect picture. The orange please enjoy the pieces of Zimbabwe we and pink fused sunsets create a spectacle have shared, and we hope to see you on of light, colours, sky and water that the ROAD this year! mirrors on Lake Kariba, to the swirling waters of the Zambezi bending and running off the If you want to be a part of the pathway edge, cascading into one of to the next NZiRA issue? Please get in the seven wonders of the touch with us on natural world in Victoria Falls. Hwange, just a stone’s throw away, holds many of our hearts.

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Printer Sable Press Unit 21-22 Bluffhill Industrial Park Bluffhill Harare Tel: 024 331 637/8, 331654 +263 (0) 772 525 076

DISCLAIMER Whilst every effort is made to check the content of any article, the directors will not be held responsible for any errors or omissions in such articles. We accept that all articles and photographs sent to us are the sole responsibility of the authors and we do not accept liability for any misrepresentation. Events listed, the dates thereof, and prices are printed using information supplied to us that we are satisfied is correct at the time of printing. Nzira publication is the exclusive property of Ndeipi (Pvt) Ltd


NZIRA TRAVEL MAGAZINE SUBSCRIPTIONS, DELIVERED TO YOUR DOOR Nzira Travel Zimbabwe produces a bi-monthly travel magazine that is aimed at showcasing the beauty of the country and the various outstanding destinations that it has to offer. To subscribe to Nzira please send your details and payment to our Softrite offices at 37 Victoria Drive, Newlands, Harare, or contact us on 024 2782720. Your issue will be delivered bi-monthly. Subscription costs are $50 for 6 issues. 4

March/April 2019



Travel Zimbabwe

Nzira Cover Page

nziramagazine Nzira Cover Photo Giraffe on the lookout at Matetsi Victoria Falls


16 #travellers’tales The roads you, our readers, take.


Gonarezhou New Beginnings in the National Park

18 Captain Chuma's Idyllic Route On the lake with one of Kariba's Captains.

21 Mana In Motion Photo Gallery.

28 The Little Guys That we love to eat.

30 On the Wings of the Martial Eagle Flying with Africa's largest eagle.

34 Matetsi Victoria Falls A gallery showcasing this lovely spot.


African Adventuring

Making the most of the African days.

43 Road Trip A trip to Nyanga.

50 Save in the Savé A drive through the Savé conservancy in the Isuzu KB300 lx auto.

52 A Guiding Hand Learner Professional Hunters and Guides (LPHG) course at Mokore.

58 Recipes Argentinian Prawns and Beef Fillet

60 Books for any and all travellers Our travel reading picks for you.

38 The land of teak and tusks A Hwange safari adventure at Ivory Lodge.

63 Events Stay in the know of upcoming events.

65 Games Challenge your mind with a crossword or a Sudoku.

66 Bark of the Urban Baboon The new normal


ŠBad Rabbit Studio


March/April 2019

GONAREZHOU New Beginnings Article Elsabe van der Westhuizen Images Bad Rabbit Studio, Mike Kock and Sinamatella


onarezhou, with its iconic Chilojo Cliffs and vast wilderness landscapes, has for long been a forgotten jewel in the crown of Zimbabwe’s National Parks. However, through an innovative conservation partnership, it has been given a new breath of life and is steadily gaining its rightful place as an iconic wilderness and wildlife destination. Between 2007 and 2017, the Park was supported by the Frankfurt Zoological Society (FZS) through a long-term cooperation agreement with the Zimbabwe Parks and Wildlife Management Authority (ZPWMA). During this time, emphasis was placed on ensuring the security of the Park’s wildlife and investing in the infrastructure necessary to support effective management of Gonarezhou. Wildlife populations responded well and the game viewing and overall visitor experience improved dramatically. Then, 2017 ushered in a new era for the Park, with the formation of the Gonarezhou Conservation Trust. The Trust is an equal partnership between ZPWMA and FZS, and is directly responsible for all aspects of the management and development of the Park.

This innovative conservation model has exciting implications for the long-term sustainability of the Park and through it, the Trust has been able to establish key partnerships with donors who share the vision of a sustainable future for Gonarezhou. This vision is founded on five core pillars, Gonarezhou’s five Cs: Conservation, Communities, Commercial Development, Connectivity and Corporate Governance These five pillars are inextricably interconnected and underpin the strategy for the Park going forward. A key component of this strategy is enhancing the Park’s tourism potential, a critical component in ensuring the financial sustainability of Gonarezhou in the long term. Until now, the Park’s tourism offering had focused primarily on the self-drive market, with visitors camping in exclusive, undeveloped campsites in remote areas along the Runde and Mwenezi Rivers. Whilst occupancies have been growing year-on-year, the Park is yet to achieve its goals for tourism and capitalise on its potential. This vision for tourism in Gonarezhou is to make tourism work for conservation (and not the other way around), retaining the core values of the Park as an untouched and iconic wilderness area.

©Mike Kock


As a first step towards achieving this vision, all tourism revenue is now retained at a Park-level for direct reinvestment into the conservation of the area. In addition, the Trust has undertaken a full evaluation of the tourism experience in the Park, from reception gates to tourist facilities to roads. This evaluation, along with the general management plan for the Park, is guiding the future for tourism in the Park - and an exciting future it is! The past year has already seen the refurbishment of Swimuwini Camp, in southern Gonarezhou. The camp’s eight chalets have been given a modern face-lift, opening up the kitchen and living areas to fully appreciate the camp’s beautiful setting along the Mwenezi River.

©Bad Rabbit Studio


Each chalet has been fitted out with quality bedding, towels and fully equipped kitchens, and the entire camp now runs permanently off solar power for both lighting and hot water. In addition to the work on Swimuwini, a new introduction this past year has been the first Mananga Camp at Masasanya Dam. “Mananga” can be roughly translated to “a place far away in the bush”, in the local Shangaan vernacular. The concept is not only to offer a camp built in a style that has the lightest footprints, but one which also celebrates local culture and the communities living adjacent to the Park. The structures are built using reclaimed materials and traditional techniques that are combined with comfortable and quality furnishings and fittings to ensure a truly unique and memorable experience. Each camp is built by local community members and artisans, who are then trained and employed as camp attendants, bringing the vision full circle by directly connecting conservation, tourism and communities. Given the success of the first Mananga Camp, the Trust plans to build a further three camps in 2019 (two in the South along the Mwenezi River and one in the North near the Save and Runde Rivers), allowing visitors to easily move from one camp to the next, fully experiencing the diversity of habitats and scenic landscapes the Park has to offer.


March/April 2019

Other plans for 2019 include the development of five starbeds in the remote central area of the Park. These starbeds (platforms) will allow visitors to sleep safely with only the starry night as their backdrop, making for an unparalleled wilderness experience. These platforms will be placed at some of the lesser known and isolated pans that attract wildlife from miles around during the dry season. Wildlife is still very shy in the area, with very little human contact but a trickling flow of visitors has already seen a marked improvement For more information, visit on sightings in the area. Despite the changes in the and management of Gonarezhou follow us on facebook at @ and the grand vision for to keep up tourism, it remains wholly to date with happenings a National Park, not only and offers in the park. serving to protect Zimbabwe’s biodiversity but also serving as a recreational area accessible To make a booking to stay to all Zimbabweans. Whilst in Gonarezhou, please our goal is to enhance the email reservations@ financial sustainability of the or Park in the long term, the call +263 (0) 779 788 811. Trust aims to ensure that both the diversity and pricing of its tourism offerings will provide the opportunity for Zimbabweans of all walks of life to visit and celebrate the beauty of their own natural heritage.

The colourful cliffs speak for themselves.

©Shannon Wilson

©Shannon Wilson

©Shannon Wilson


10 March/April 2019

Lake Chivero Game Park


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Building winning teams with Coach Wesley


12 March/April 2019


Adventuring Article and Images Sarah Kerr


owards the end of 2018, I lost a friend, far too young. His passing spurred a deep sadness and a lot of reflection on what life is really about, how fragile it is and how best to make the most of the time we have. For most of 2018, I had complained about wanting to travel more, to spend quality time with my loved ones, to see new things and make new memories. And so, two days after Christmas in 2018 we took to the road for an epic trip. Since it was planned in haste we decided to play tourists in our own back yard, and explore some of the stunning areas close to us. We began and ended in Victoria Falls, as it is where we live. However, it is also a perfect starting point as it is easily accessible and quite the attraction in itself. I decided upon two nights in the Caprivi region of Namibia, then on to

Botswana for one night in Maun, two nights in Khwai on the eastern side of the Okavango Delta and two nights in the Makgadikgadi region. We wanted to stay at homely, reasonably priced yet comfortable accommodation that would allow us to be independent without having to lug everything we could need with us. We drove from Victoria Falls, through the Kazangula border into Botswana and then through the lovely Chobe National Park to the quaint border post of Ngoma. This tiny border between Botswana and Namibia overlooking the Chobe floodplain is dotted with immense baobabs. After the usual formalities we entered Namibia and into the Caprivi Strip. The Strip is a narrow finger of Namibian land that extends westward from the main body of Namibia between Angola and Botswana. It runs 450km west to east and is only 32km wide for much of its length. It boasts a large number of conservation areas and national parks, prolific wildlife and few people. We drove along quiet, straight roads through most of it to reach River Dance Lodge just before Mahango towards the strip’s western end. We were a little road weary when we reached River Dance four hours later but the incredible view from their deck overlooking the Cubango River from high among the treetops and a refreshing dip in the swimming pool soothed any nerves.


River Dance consists of elegant and secluded glass and wood units tucked between the treetops with stunning views from their private decks. They are very reasonably priced and we enjoyed delicious meals, a boat cruise on the river and absolutely exceptional birding. A word of caution: their raised position and railing design don’t make this a good camp for those with children under five years old, however, I recommend this calm oasis for anyone wanting to relax in nature’s beauty. After two nights that passed in the blink of an eye, we hit the road again on our way to the donkey-filled streets of Maun. We travelled through Bwabwata National Park, (missing out on viewing Popa Falls as it was raining) and found another charming border to Botswana at Mohembo. From here the road was challenging in that it consisted of more potholes than tar until Sehitwa where it improved considerably. We found that a sense of humour and relaxed attitude are just as essential as anything else you pack! We stayed with friends in Maun but for those without this luxury, I recommend Thamalakane River Lodge on the peaceful river’s edge, on the outskirts of town. We stocked up on food and supplies for our intrepid adventure to Khwai the following day and ditched our trusty steed, a red Kia, in favour of our friend’s more rugged ride.

14 March/April 2019

The next day we set off for Khwai on the eastern side of the Okavango Delta and one of my favourite places in the world. I loved our progression from tar road to corrugated calcrete to a small sandy track. With the smell of sage bush blowing through the open windows, sunshine and storm clouds circling I was in heaven. We saw a female lion crossing the road and I was completely relaxed by the time we arrived at our destination. The Khwai Villas, an AirBnB property, is the perfect base from which to explore the area with all amenities needed to be self-sufficient. They consist of two beautifully furnished self-catering Meru style tents set on a raised decking. Underneath is a concrete slab with a table and chairs, a braai area and a container with a freezer and storage space. In short, it is everything you need and nothing you don’t. With no Wi-Fi or distractions, this is the perfect spot for days spent game driving and evenings spent eating, chatting and generally reconnecting with the people you have come with (who hopefully you like). The villas are near the Khwai Village where there are some small shops stocked with basic goods. We had hyena come past us and previous guests have seen elephant, lion, leopard, buffalo, hippo, giraffe, kudu, zebra and more from the deck of the villa

We spent happy afternoons game driving in Khwai and in the nearby Moremi Game Reserve, where we were lucky enough to see a leopard and watch a black mamba hunting frogs. There were epic storms, a lot of laughter and some lengthy afternoon naps, it was perfection. We had planned to spend one night at the ever-funky Planet Baobab near Nata, a spot I had stayed at before and loved. It would have provided an opportunity to introduce my partner to their habituated meerkat troop, a truly special experience.

However, we arrived in Maun late, after a long morning game drive and opted to bunk down with friends again. After enjoying a leisurely morning in Maun we headed on to Nata Lodge. We kept a relaxed routine and stopped to enjoy the many sights on the way; we paused near Planet Baobab’s iconic giant pink aardvark, stopped to admire goats taking shelter in a bus stop, marvelled at elephant bulls in Nxai Pan National Park and arrived at Nata on a chilly rainspattered afternoon. Although Nata itself offers nothing more than a convenient place to stop for travellers, the nearby Nata Bird Sanctuary is a highlight all year round. The Nata River forms a delta which feeds Sua Pan which is a breeding ground for huge numbers of water birds such as flamingos and pelicans.

Nata Lodge made for an excellent pit stop. Our chalet had a freestanding bath and outdoor shower, comfortable bedding and the on-site restaurant served a steak that melted in my mouth. I booked a guided tour of Nata Bird Sanctuary for the following morning and this was one of the trip’s highlights. I saw eastern clapper lark, huge flocks of great white pelican and the pink-backed pelican, Hottentot teal, black-chested snake-eagle, northern black-bellied korhaan, marabou storks and African fish eagle among others. We didn’t manage to see any flamingo as they often move when it is raining, but this in no way dampened my experience. Around the flooded pans the surreal landscape of this ancient seabed was dotted with wildebeest and zebra.

My wildlife-lover’s heart was sated and after the tour we left for our return to Victoria Falls. I reflected on the special times we had spent with friends, the new experiences we had and the sights we had seen so close to home. The benefits of a trip like this are the freedom to set your own pace, the savings to be had with no flights involved and the real connections made along the way. I am striving for more spontaneous experiences like this in 2019 and encourage you to do the same. The details of our trip and some more suggestions are below.


539.2 km

Caprivi (River Dance Lodge). 2 nights

(6 h 18 min)

Victoria Falls. 1 night

455.8 km Maun, Thamalakane River Lodge. 1 night

123.7 km

(5 h 49 min)

Khwai Villa. 2 nights

(2 h 20 min)

327.6 km (4 h 50 min)

Nata Lodge, 1 Night

Travel Tips

112.8 km

(1 h 31 min)

Planet Baobab. 1 night

If you have more time you could: • Add two nights in Victoria Falls (Try 528 | Victoria Falls or Batonka Guest Lodge for locally owned boutique accomodation at a good price) •

Add one or two nights in the Okavango Panhandle (Okavango Houseboats or Drotsky’s Cabins)

1. Look out for cattle, goats and dogs on long drives and do not be tempted to speed.

Add an extra night at Planet Baobab with sleepout in the Makgadikgadi salt pans (seasonal) to enjoy the meerkat experience.

2. Ensure that your vehicle is roadworthy and you have a working spare tyre (a lesson we learnt in Khwai)

Or add two nights in Kasane and visit Chobe National Park. (Kasane Self-catering)

3. You cannot bring animal products through Foot and Mouth disease control points in Botswana. 4. Many establishments do not have card facilities, so make sure to have enough cash. 5. Podcasts or audiobooks are a great way to break the monotony of long drives. 6. Khwai is a four-wheel drive site as is Nata Bird Sanctuary.


16 March/April 2019

#travellers’tales Article and Images Warwick Hattingh


fter a delicious lunch, we ventured on an afternoon game drive from Hippo Valley Camp. We watched a big elephant bull making his way through the river bed then some giant giraffe feeding, a herd of impala wandering, a warthog and a few kudu in the acacia forest nothing out of the ordinary. The Lowveld heat was becoming bearable and as we continued our drive to the Malilangwe side and the Banyen area we found a herd of 400 to 450 buffalo to the left of us and herds of zebra, wildebeest and impala on the right - like a scene from Beautiful People. Looking just to the right of the mountain of dark horns was a giraffe bull that was looking at something intently. Two cheetah stretched and walked out from the yellow grass and strolled across the plains. We couldn’t believe our luck. And in the next breath, we heard a lion in the tree-line, a big male as we saw when he came out, and he walked through the zebra and impala who were barking at him. Unperturbed, he lay down for a rest right next to us as the golden sun was setting and the impala and zebra turned their heads away and went back to grazing.

We moved off this spectacular scene to see some rhino but as we neared them, we heard on the radio that the cheetah were hunting a baby impala. We raced past an elephant bull, but when we arrived the speedy cheetah were already eating their catch with the impala herd nowhere to be seen. While we watched the cheetah, three rhinos were standing under a tree. A big cloud of dust rose and some bellowing sounded out and the bull rhino started to charge at some dagga boys who were coming to the pan for a drink!

We had an action-packed day in the bush with the big four, only just missing the leopard. We went and had sundowners at the pan with a lion, a hyena and her pup and the buffalo. The lion finished drinking while we had another and he walked no more than 30m away, right past us with his nose in the air on his way to the cheetah kill, we presumed. We left him walking and began making our way home again. What a privilege it is to live in Africa.

Send us your tumultous tales, recovered road trips and unbelievable adventures to and you may be featured in our next issues of NZiRA Travel Magazine


Captain Chuma’s

idyllic route KARIBA Article Shannon Wilson Images Mickey Wilson and Captain Chuma


houseboat trip on Kariba is a holiday in paradise like no other: waking up to sun kissed waters, listening to the fish eagles cry and feeling the weight of your first catch at the tip of your rod. However, as with most holidays, you have to get the admin out the way before you can enjoy this phenomenal experience. These range from sorting your ice, drinks, food, parks and fishing fees, packing the houseboat and lastly planning a route for your trip. Captain Keferance “Chuma” Siamaburo has been sailing the inland sea of Kariba for 30 years and captained Royal Game for 22! He has watched two elephant bulls fight one another, captured many bream and witnessed a lion kill right on the banks of the man-made dam.

His knowledge of our beautiful Kariba is as vast as the lake after a good rainy season. We spoke to Captain Chuma on where best to travel so we might have the chance to see what he has seen. Here is his ideal route for the perfect Kariba trip filled with fishing, game viewing and spectacular sunsets all in one. We have kept this route fuel savvy as we are trying to accommodate the horrid shortages Zimbabwe is going through currently. However, if this is not a limitation then by all means make the route longer, elephant point, Tashinga, Bumi – Kariba is your oyster!

“I have seen so many things all these years everywhere along the lake shoreline”

18 March/April 2019

1. Sanyati West Bay

2. changa

All settled in for the night, Chuma and his clients from the

Arriving at Changa in the early

Netherlands took the tender

evening hours, Chuma and Past

boat out for a spot of fishing

(chef and deckhand) tried to tie

and a game cruise. Chuma

up for the night when they were

recalls, “we noticed the impala

interrupted by a very friendly

started running very fast, so

herd of elephant. After several

we brought the tender boat

tries, the “ellies” moved

closer to the shore and that’s

over just enough for Royal

when we saw the cheetah

Game to get set up and

chasing them!” After a

the clients watched the

short and successful

elephants march on as the

chase, the two cheetah

clouds turned pink. It is a

devoured their meal

beautiful location on the

seemingly unaware of

lake and one not to be

their audience. You may

missed on a houseboat

not be as lucky as these


Dutch guests but it’s certainly worth a try!


4. Antelope island

Well known for the

Antelope is usually a

many crocodiles that

guarantee for excellent

bathe on its hot sand,

fishing so, if you have failed

Palm Bay is an excellent

to catch anywhere else, you

fishing and game viewing

should not be leaving this spot

space in Kariba. Chuma

empty handed. Not the best area

notes that he often sees

for game, Antelope has baboons

zebra, impala, water buck and

and Chuma has seen a small herd

elephant in this area. We have

of buffalo there before. If you are in

seen a crocodile corpse being

a hurry to head home and need to be

munched on here by its fellow

at the harbour early but still want to


enjoy some fish snacks for dinner this is where you want to be!

4 1 2



Sometimes the unplanned happens, and you’re unprotected.

Prevent pregnancy use emergency contraception. Emergency contraception can be used to reduce the chance of pregnancy after unprotected sex.

Speak to your pharmacist, nurse or doctor about emergency contraception - brought to you by PSI

Name and Business address of the holder of the certificate of registration. Population Services International, South Africa, Block G, 63 Regency Drive, Route 21 Corporate Park, Irene, 0152. Tel.: +27 87 809 0087. Distributed by Pulse Pharmaceuticals, 15 Borgward Road, Msasa, Harare, Zimbabwe. Email: Tel.: +263 242 446126. P020/2018

20 March/April 2019

Mana in Motion Images Jessica Harris and Chris Collyer

Below Cover your catch.

ŠChris Collyer


professional photographer chris collyer

ŠChris Collyer

Photo Gallery Submissions Help us to share Zimbabwe’s story in pictures and send us your submissions to and you may be included in our next issue or on our website.

22 March/April 2019

©Chris Collyer

©Chris Collyer

Above Western view.


Mana lover Jess Harris Below The Zambezi River mirroring above.

ŠJessica Harris

24 March/April 2019

Below The kind of road blocks you actually want.

©Jessica Harris

©Jessica Harris

Above Golden sunlight caught by a bending Acacia tree.


“Let Nature be your teacher.” William Wordsworth



Little That we love to eat Article Rufaro Kaviya

Images Chris Collyer

he consumption of insects, entomophagy, has seen its steady incline in popularity as the trend spreads and grows. Countries north, south, east and west have taken their picks from the 1900 edible varieties of insects (as of April 2012) and the choice gastropods. From the delicacies of escargots from France to the tantalising taste of tarantulas in Cambodia; even our own local traditions including a variety of caterpillars, flying termites, ants, crickets and grasshoppers, have proved the possibilities endless as minds become more open.


FLYING TERMITES Often confused with the flying ant which is just as edible, the flying termite is a protein filled, rainy season delicacy of Zimbabwe; second only to the caterpillar or mopane worm locally known as madora.

(Ishwa) Said to have a nutty taste, this simple dish is pegged as a healthier, cheaper alternative to our more common meat. In spite of its small size, it is packed with great protein and necessary fat.

Treat Yourself

1. Under a light, leave a dish of water overnight in order to collect your ishwa;

2. Remove from the water, adding to a pan with minimal


oil and choice spice;


3. Fry them until they are shiny on the outside;

ŠChris Collyer

4. Fry in some onion rings for added taste.









Eaten both locally and across our borders, grasshoppers have made a crunch in our lives. You can sometimes buy grasshoppers in specific shops down town or if you like, catch them using a wool blanket on a field abundant with grasshoppers and some overripe fruit. Having this tasty treat fresh may mean an early morning and a bit of chasing, but nevertheless worthwhile. ŠChris Collyer

28 March/April 2019

Treat Yourself

1. Pull off the heads which will, in turn, pull out the entrails and rinse your grasshoppers

2. Soak in a marinade of salt, onion, garlic and brown sugar

3. Remove and fry in light oil until golden and shiny.

For something out of our own cultural tastes:

TARANTULAS A bit furry for my own tastes, but the creepy crawlies that make a number of people scream has regionally made its mark as part of Cambodia’s culture. Having come into the Cambodian diet during times of famine in the 1970s, tarantulas, and several “exotic” eats, simply remained for their good taste. This flavour burst is something akin to crab according to those who have tried and bland to others.

Treat Yourself

1. Having caught, killed and selected your tarantulas, singe the hair off with a lighter

2. Soak them in a mixture of sugar, salt, light seasoning and water

3. After soaking well, place them in a saucepan with

hot oil and turn on each side for approximately 45 seconds.

On the wings of a Martial Eagle Article Julia Pierini Images BirdLife Zimbabwe


he Martial Eagle is the largest eagle in Africa occurring throughout the savanna belt of Africa from southern Sahara to the Cape. Its name is derived from the Latin word `Martialis` meaning `from Mars` - an apt name for such a magnificent bird considering that Mars was the Roman god of war! The adult Martial Eagle’s plumage has dark brown upperparts to go along with its similarly coloured head and upper chest. The underparts of the body are white streaked with black. The underwing coverts are brown, with pale flight feathers, also streaked with black. The female is usually larger and more streaked than the male. The immature bird is paler and has white underparts. It reaches adult plumage and maturity in its seventh year.

30 March/April 2019

The Martial Eagle`s preferred habitat is uninhabited stretches of thorn bush and savanna, open plains and semi-desert country. It avoids dense forests, but as the species requires trees for nesting they are generally absent from arid or cleared areas. It is a powerful looking, long-legged eagle with a broad, flat head and penetrating yellow eyes. It probably occurs more widely than any other eagle in southern Africa, ranging from the driest to the wettest environments and from the flattest to the most mountainous regions. In spite of this, it is not frequently seen and even in its prime habitats in some national parks, there is no more than one pair of eagles per 150km2. Additionally, it spends much of its time flying, often at such a great height, that it is invisible to the naked eye.

For further information on birding hotspots around Zimbabwe check out the Birding Zimbabwe tab on

These powerful and rapacious eagles do most of their hunting from the air and are known for their superior eyesight (3.0 – 3.6 times human acuity). They soar at great height until their prey is in sight, then swoop down to catch their victim using talons.

Guineafowl and other game birds are commonly taken, but the range of prey recorded for the species is wide, from small buck and mammals to snakes and leguaans. The preferred prey varies from region to region. Although widespread, the Martial Eagle has become increasingly scarce in the more heavily settled parts of its range. The species suffers from direct persecution (shooting and trapping) by farmers, indirect poisoning, drowning in sheer-walled reservoirs, electrocution on power lines, and habitat alteration and degradation. Direct persecution and indirect poisoning are, by far, the most important causes of losses. Poisoning is largely carried out by a few large-scale commercial farmers but is also a problem in small-stock farming communities - a disturbingly large number of birds are killed for real or imagined stock thefts. Reduction in natural prey due to human encroachment on natural habitat may lead to an increase in predation on domestic animals, which may, in turn, lead to increased persecution by farmers. In some areas, birds may be taken for use in traditional medicine, and parts have been found in muthi markets. Some protected areas are also too small to hold a single pair, and the size of territory means that birds nesting in protected areas will generally forage far outside them, making them more vulnerable to persecution.

It has to be said that loss of habitat is one of the most important factors causing the extinction of species worldwide. Among the South African eagles, habitat destruction is the result of development for agriculture, housing, mining and similar land-use forms, or in subsistence communities, the clearing of bush to collect firewood, to establish small croplands, and for other purposes. Related to habitat loss is the global threat of climate change, the impacts of which could, for instance, include dramatic changes in the habitat and prey base of the eagles. Martial Eagles are listed as Vulnerable (VU) on the IUCN Red List.



Matetsi VictoriaFalls Words Mike Garden Images Matetsi Victoria Falls

34 March/April 2019

Infinity Pool “Imagine a scene where you can sit alongside one of the widest rivers in Africa on a hot day with clear blue skies and the air conditioning soundlessly cooling your large, well-appointed suite. Then, add in an infinity pool enhancing your view of the mass of water flowing slowly down to the mighty Victoria Falls some 40km away. A crocodile slips lazily off of the sandbank on the other side of the river and a tigerfish leaps to the sky a little way off�


Siesta Spot “One of the most important ,yet often neglected, aspects of a holiday is finding time to have a completely relaxed “deep sleep”. At Matetsi Victoria Falls you are so far removed from the madding crowd – no need to hear that noisy car speed past your room or be on half alert in case a needy burglar has chosen your home to visit. You will hear the sounds of the wildest Africa with owls hooting nearby; hippos snorting in the early morning; and the cackle of a hyena sneaking up on a recent lion kill. ”

Bath in Paradise “In the heat of the day you take a cold shower in the enclosed area with Acacia trees in full leaf shielding you from the intense rays of sunlight. Later in the afternoon you wander over to the bathroom and start filling the large oval bathtub with hot water and the best smelling bath salts. Then, a quiet gin and tonic sundowner sitting on the verandah waiting for the hot water to absorb the right quantity of salts to give the most relaxing 15 minutes of mindfulness. Then you lie peacefully in six inches of soapy suds breathing it all in.”

36 March/April 2019

Think of everything you have ever dreamed of having in your bedroom and I am sure you find the best example of it in these luxurious bedrooms: extra-long king size beds with the most comfortable pillows; fine gauze windows and door frames to keep all the irritating insects out in the wild and well away from buzzing around your ears; resplendent lounge chairs allowing you to spend time browsing through the awe inspiring hard covered books with some of the best photography you will ever see.

Dining Out “After a long early morning game drive with sightings of most of the Big Five, one generally has a long slow breakfast seated outdoors filling one’s belly with just about any type of brunch you can imagine. The tables are set up with the finest cutlery and crockery – even wine glasses for those that are not worried about what the outside world thinks of their debauchery. As the well-known saying goes: Everything in moderation. Okay then I will have another piece of that delicious bream fillet “


38 March/April 2019

the land of

teak and tusks Article and Images Shannon Wilson


he early morning sun colours the grey teak trees in a burnt orange hue and the October air is dry and crisp. Our guide, Peter, tells us that the morning game drives are for the cats. Green ponchos on, gripping the cool railing of the safari vehicle we go in search of the elusive felines. Ivory Lodge, also known as the Land of Teak and Tusks (for good reason), is located in the Sikumi Forest near Hwange National Park and forms part of the Amalinda Safari Collection. We were welcomed into the lodge with some much-needed wet facecloths and sweet drinks. With the provided bird book in hand, we were able to lounge on the chairs that face the firepit and provide a stunning view of the pool and safari camp.

“Treehouse” rooms overlook the large watering hole that invites wildlife of all shapes and sizes to come and quench their thirst from sunup to sundown. We settled down in one of the suite rooms which are equipped with both a shower and a large bath with a viewing window – perfect for a late evening bubble bath under the stars. The double bed is adorned with an essential four post mosquito net that looks over the wooden balcony onto the savanna where we enjoyed a cup of coffee at dawn while watching the kudu on their morning stroll.


The thatched hide that stands near the watering hole is the prime spot for game viewing. The elephants often come right up to the structure to eat the salt located nearby holding their trunks in the air every so often. We were fortunate enough to see several herds, less than a metre away on two out of the three days we were there! They were usually revolted by our scent throwing their trunks down and moving away for a while and then slowly coming back to the rich minerals. Meal times are always a treat at Ivory Lodge, not only because of the delicious food but also because of the people seated nearby. Our first day certainly made for interesting dinner conversation as we found ourselves being entertained by guests from all over the world: visitors from India and Australia, others from Canada, South Africa and Scotland!

40 March/April 2019

Guided by Gee Travels, they came to see the Falls and Hwange, before venturing out of the country and heading their separate ways. Ivory Lodge offers a variety of activities ranging from game drives and walking safaris to community visits under the Mother Africa Trust initiative and excursions to see the wild dog conservation efforts. Our search for the cats was not in vain and we stumbled across a pride of lion lying in the middle of the road just half an hour into our game drive. We watched them tuck into an elephant that had died the previous week. Peter informed us that these juveniles were born from the big male Mopane and would soon have to leave the pride. We left the lion to their meal and continued to Hwange National Park for ours at the viewpoint. The grass now glistened in the late morning as we searched the high branches for a leopard and looked under the acacias for the cheetah which we later found yawning in the shade. Unfortunately, we never located the elusive leopard. I guess that’s just another reason to go back and experience what Khulu Bush camp has to offer!

The setting sun painted the sky a deep pink as we sipped on ice-cold gin and tonics, watched a giraffe munch on some of the blooming green leaves and chatted to Peter about how he became a guide. It was our final night and the manager, Sean, surprised us with a romantic, candlelit dinner on the deck complimented by red wine, steak, mashed potato and vegetables. We spent the remainder of the evening by the fire catching up with two young men from Norway who were volunteering at Ivory after one of them met Sharon Stead (owner of the Amalinda Safari Collection) a couple years ago while on a family holiday. Ivory Lodge provides guests with a sensational and personal holiday in the bush at a secluded, peaceful and beautiful place. We could write many more pages for you about the kudu we saw who can easily jump up to two metres or the delectable lamb stew and the impeccable service, but you will have to go there yourself to understand how truly wonderful the experience is.

How to get there: By car is best, it’s about 3 hours from Bulawayo and two hours from Victoria Falls. We flew into Bulawayo from Harare for $100* one way and then drove to the lodge which is extremely easy to find. Best time of year: April to September – Zimbabwe’s winter season so it is not too hot and the game is easier to find as the bush is not as thick! *Subject to change


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Exploration based in Nyanga, we at NZiRA found two pieces and combined them to bring you your next best idea for a roadtrip in our great Zimbabwe

Road Trip Article Kelly Stijkel and Jenni Ferguson

Images Kelly Stijkel, Jenni Ferguson and Chris Cragg


fter an early start, we turn off the Juliasdale-Mutare Road onto the Honde Valley Road winding down into the fertile and lush Honde Valley. There is a constant change of scenery, from the pine trees to subsistence farming of bananas, mangoes, avocados, papayas and peaches. There are few places in Zimbabwe where you can buy a big bag of mangoes or an entire banana branch for just one bond! The Honde Valley has the Zimbabwean touch - friendly people sharing all their joy. Looking up to the escapement, one can see the mighty Mutororo and Mutarazi Falls, Zimbabwe’s highest waterfall, cascading down in all their beauty. This region also boasts the highest mountain, Mount Nyangani where it is said that the mere whisper of a word in some places will cause you to disappear. It’s remarkable that within one hour of a drive you will witness both of these magnificent sights. Following this road, passing the hundreds of goats, the very equipped town of Hauna and the gushing Pungwe River, you will eventually arrive at the Eastern Highlands Plantations. Green. Lush. That’s the only way to describe the vast array of tea covering every slope in sight. Described by visitors as ‘heaven on earth’, these words are nothing short of the truth. Once we arrived at Aberfoyle Lodge, the friendly staff, all of whom seem to have been born and raised in the Honde Valley, welcomed us. Aberfoyle Lodge was completed in 1960 as a club for the tea estate staff and later converted to a 15 bedroom fully-catered lodge which is now managed by Far and Wide Zimbabwe. It still has the original wooden floors, large verandahs and old-fashioned comfort but with new décor and very comfortable ensuite bedrooms. Each of these bedrooms are named after the unique birds found here, with the colours of the walls matching the respective bird. Aberfoyle has undergone three phases of renovations in the last 8 years, and it shows! Aberfoyle Lodge really encompasses everything to do with the beauty of the outdoors.

With its offerings of zip lining through the trees, sliding down a ten-metre bum slide or white water rafting; hiking through the riparian forest or learning about the history of the Eastern Highlands Plantation through a tea factory tour; or birding with brilliant guide we able to truly explore ‘Zimbabwe’s hidden gem’. Enjoying a lengthly drive west brought up the Nyangwe Fort; the home of a people with a more settled way of life who started to infiltrate the country two thousand years ago. What, at first glance, looked like an arrangement of stone, was in fact the representation of those who were able to live as settled communities. It was these people and their descendants who were responsible for the great number of prehistoric structures for which the Nyanga District is most famous. The surrounding areas contain many archaeological remains of people from this time who lived by the stone-built pit structures and who built stone forts on the heights. The people of this time lived in the warmer valleys and only retreated to the heights for safety. Nyangwe Fort, located near Mare Dam in Nyanga National Park, is the largest, most intact, and probably the best example of the Uplands Type 8 Fort in Nyanga. Its massive stonework is a fine example of Nyanga ruins built some 400 years ago.


Chawomera Fort, visible from Nyangwe, is of similar construction and hails from the same time period. Nyangwe Fort is in a commanding situation; it enjoys wide views over the valley towards Mount Nyangani, whilst crowning a rocky promontory surrounded by steep drops and sharp rocky slopes. The summit is crowned by the original enclosure, which is surrounded by five further enclosures. All have loopholes, arrowslits built into the wall and most contain low stone circles of hut bases. The main features of the Fort are the tall walls, consisting of large, close-fitting blocks of stone which form enclosures characterised by low lintelled entrances. The Fort was visited by Dr Heinrich Schilicher in 1897 and Dr Carl Peters in 1900, who both proposed exotic theories of ancient Semitic origin. RN Hall attributed them to ‘Arabs’ of the 11th or 12th centuries from the East African cities of Mogadishu and Kilwa. Dr Randall Maclver, a professional archaeologist brought out by the Rhodes Trustees, ascribed all the Rhodesian ruins to Bantu speaking peoples, living between the 13th and 17th centuries. The late Peter Garlake once commented that there was bitter controversy between the disciples of Peters, Hall and Maclver on the origin of the ruins. 44 March/April 2019

Roger Summers and Keith Robinson only put this controversy to rest in 1948 when the Inyanga Research Fund sponsored a series of excavations. Their results were published in 1958 by Summers in Inyanga: Prehistoric Settlement in Southern Rhodesia. Study of the archaeological finds from the ruins consisting of beads, pottery, bone and metalwork makes it quite clear that no site shows any exotic Semitic or Arab influence. Another controversy surrounded the loopholes in the Fort walls, which were associated by early archaeologists to Fort Sao Caetano of Sofala. This started endless speculation as to the origin of these monuments which controversy again only ended with the excavations by Summers and Robinson in 1951. Roger Summers believes the original enclosure (see map) was (B) to which (E) and (F) were then added. Then came (A) then (D) and finally (C). Within these enclosures, there are low stone circles – the remains of huts and granaries. They are believed to date from around the 16th century when the climate of the Nyanga Uplands seems to have been drier than today, enabling grain crops to be cultivated.

Sources: 1. R. Summers. Ancient Ruins and Vanished Civilisations of Southern Africa. Published by: T.V. Bulpin Publications, Cape Town, 1971, First Edition (text content and Map) 2. R. Summers. Inyanga: Prehistoric Settlement in Southern Rhodesia. Cambridge: at the University Press, UK 1958 (text content) 3. Mike Tucker (UK), (text and some photographs)


46 March/April 2019


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Air Zimbabwe Commercial Training School T

he Air Zimbabwe Commercial Training School offers a plethora of courses for up skilling internal staff as well as external clients with an interest in any of the areas which are covered. One such course is Passenger Fares and Ticketing which is offered as a three-part course: Elementary, Basic and Advanced Fares Ticketing. A holder of such qualifications is able to kick start a career in aviation as a Travel Consultant working within an Airline or any Travel Agent globally. These courses offer expert knowledge on the fundamentals for pricing travel plans, interpreting constructed fares and decoding e-ticket data in order to provide passengers with fast, accurate and above all, the best value package services. The Elementary Passenger Fares and Ticketing course teaches the language of fare construction and fare rules which enables a Travel Consultant to provide customers with the best value advice for their itinerary and travel needs. Minimum qualification to enrol for this entry level course is 5 ‘O’ Level subjects including English and Mathematics. Upon completion of this course one will attain the following competencies among others: •Decode and encode the •following: •City and Airport Codes •Lands (country information) •Equipment (Aircraft types) •Airline Codes •Regions (State information) •Use the international time •calculator •Quote the correct minimum •connecting time. •Apply the IATA Rates •of •Exchange (IROE) in •converting •Neutral Units of •Construction. The Basic Fares and Ticketing level course is mainly recommended for the following groups of professionals: •Airline call centre, •reservation and ticket agents •Travel agents and •consolidators, wholesalers •Airline tariff and pricing •analysts agents Interline •billing auditors 48 March/April 2019

To enrol for this course participants must have completed “Elementary Passenger Fares and Ticketing” and covered the core elements of the Mileage System Principle, Standard Condition 100/101, the Higher Intermediate Point check and the Backhaul check. This course covers the following among other areas: • IATA geography • Fare construction formula • Fare types • Journey pricing On completion of course, participants are awarded an IATA Certificate of Completion. The last level is the Advanced Fares and Ticketing course for participants who have completed the “Basic Passenger Fares and Ticketing” prior to registering for this course. The course is targeted at the following professionals: • Experienced ticketing •and reservations agents •Line managers and sales •supervisors *Rate/help desk •specialists and interline •- billing officers •Fares and ticketing •instructors, system •developers and tariff analysts

Upon completion of this course, not only will one be awarded with an IATA Certificate of Completion but one will also attain the following among other competencies: • Master steps and checks in •normal fare construction of •a single pricing unit as well as •for two or more consecutive •or contiguous pricing units •Apply the latest currency •conversion procedures •Calculate fares for journeys •with surface sectors •Assess the impact of indirect •travel limitations on fare •construction and imbedded •surface sectors •Apply the latest exchange •/reissue and netting •procedures Contact our Training Department for more information on our 2019 Training Calendar and join the exciting and rewarding world of air travel. ENROLL TODAY!


Safe in the Savé Article and images Debbie Swales


n return from a trip to the Savé Valley Conservancy in the southeast corner of Zimbabwe, my message to the Business Development Manager of Autoworld was, “Piet, I arrived safely from the Lowveld, but you are not getting your vehicle back!” This vehicle surpassed all my expectations. Not that I really knew what to expect as I had never driven an Isuzu before. For the past 28 years, dare I say, I have been a Toyota fan but this vehicle will certainly give any other make of vehicle a run for its money. Zimbabwean roads are renowned for unpleasant handicaps such as potholes, uneven cambers and sharp drop-offs on the edge of the tar. The road due south of Harare is particularly bad with large numbers of heavy trucks which are a hazard to overtake, but the Isuzu KB 300 LX Auto makes overtaking a pleasure due to the powerful 3l engine. With its low centre of gravity, coil springs in the front and leaf springs in the rear; it drives so smoothly as if it has been glued to the road. 18” off-road tyres add to its ability to deal with different surfaces and lumpy, uneven cambers around sharp bends were a mere annoyance and no longer a threat as can be with high clearance vehicles. 420km later, I turned onto the gravel road that leads to Mokore Camp. I have driven this road on several occasions but this time the dreaded corrugations went unnoticed. At no time was there swaying of the rear end nor was the vehicle ever out of control, even when I pushed it to 100km/hr.

50 March/April 2019

Being in a wildlife environment and knowing that an animal could attempt to cross the road at any time, I had to curtail my speed. They have been known to inadvertently jump onto vehicles causing untold damage to all concerned. Unfortunately, I didn’t have time to test drive the vehicle in rigorous off-road conditions, but the 4x4 press button system is simple to use and I am quite sure this vehicle would have handled most situations. Perhaps the only drawback is the ground clearance, which may be tricky when negotiating steep embankments out of dry riverbeds but this minor issue can be excused where safety is paramount.

Numerous other luxuries including leather seats, keyless start button, a navigational device designed for southern African maps, reverse camera, electronic 4-way adjustment for the driver’s seat and chrome finishes are just a few. On long journeys, cup-holders and cubbyholes add to this, but it was the comfort, versatility and safety features that really caught my attention. This double cab pickup is an outstanding car which can be used in town as a family car, a reliable off-road vehicle or a utility transporter. It has the ability to carry a one tonne load whilst towing up to a massive three and a half tonnes at the same time.

Image Left Dwarfed by the giant old baobab of Mokore

Image Left Dave Langerman gently uncoils the python from the engine

Image Left Dave Langerman rescues the stowaway

The Slithery Stowaway The final day arrived and I reluctantly packed my bags. Little did I know I had acquired a stowaway! A small python had decided the engine of the vehicle was a secluded home in which to curl up and digest a recently consumed meal. Fortunately, the camp staff had seen the python slithering in and luckily, for the sake of the snake and the engine, an experienced snake handler was on site who gently removed it and released it back into its own perfect home in the wilds of the Savé Valley Conservancy.

For further information on the Isuzu contact: Piet de Klerk Autoworld Harare (Pvt) Ltd Tel: + 263 8677004334 Email:



A Guiding Hand LPHG Course Article and Images Debbie Swales


our gunshots, in quick succession, ring out across the dry, sandy riverbed. A puff of dust rises as a bullet passes through the bull’s-eye of the target and hits the bank on the other side. The African sun is unrelenting; temperatures soar to 34º C and it is only 10am. Chris Pakenham, range master, tutor and examiner on the Learner Professional Hunters and Guides course, held at Mokore Camp in the Savé Valley Conservancy, quickly reaches across to one of the less experienced candidates who is holding a high calibre .458 rifle. Chris forcefully pushes the barrel away whilst threatening disqualification. It is pointing slightly in the wrong direction and could be a threat to the bystanders should there be a negligent discharge. This is just the start of an intense five days of training beginning at 5.30am and ending around 9pm. The candidates are grouped into three categories; A, B and C, according to experience. They have come here to be given an insight into what will be required for the proficiency test; the final step in an arduous task of becoming a fully qualified professional guide. There is no other country that demands such a high standard. 52 March/April 2019

Image: Above A lesson on trees and creepers

Image: Left Learners identify skulls

The course is organized by ZPHGA (Zimbabwe Professional Hunters and Guides Association) who, through the dedication of its members, has managed to maintain this high standard. Qualified individuals from the private sector also provide invaluable assistance, offering their time and expertise for free. In this case, Mokore Safaris has provided the required venue. It doesn’t take long for Chris and fellow tutors, Dean Kendall, David Langerman, Penny Raynor, Andy Smith, Graeme Jones and Dave Carson to weed out the weaker candidates.

Correct weapon Image: Above handling, quick Dust cloud at the reactions and range precision shooting are essential in a dangerous wildlife area. Lives depend Image: Right upon it and Andy Smith taking a inexperience can closer look at a colony of ants whilst the result in disaster if Peterhouse School unable to handle Conservationist, a charging buffalo, Penny Raynor looks lion or elephant. over his shoulder The threat is very real here and candidates are pushed to their limits. It is almost impossible to capture the full substance of this course in a few words. Candidates are expected, by the time they do their proficiency, to have undergone at least four years of practical work under the watchful eye of a qualified guide. It is then up to the individual to study hard in order to do the theory. Beginner study packs are available from ZPHGA which has the basic information; a CD study guide, log book, an array of National Parks and firearms laws, ballistics etc. There are four LPHG written exams, set by the Zimbabwe Parks and Wildlife Management Authority, which cover law and regulations, habits and habitats, ballistics and general knowledge. Once this is achieved, the learner can then continue to glean the massive amount of information required for guiding and more importantly, gain practical experience. A considerable amount of wisdom is required where dangerous animals are involved and it is absolutely necessary to be able to provide evidence to the examiners that numerous approaches

and close encounters have been accomplished, including actual hunting. This is paramount to the safety of guests and guides alike. If a candidate cannot prove he or she is capable of controlling both guests and animals in a dangerous situation, that person will fail. During the course, candidates, under the watchful eye of tutors, conduct walks and inexperience is very obvious especially when under pressure. In preparation for the proficiency, mock oral interviews are given to the ‘A’ group which can last twenty minutes. Skulls, plants, leaves, skin, teeth, dung and bones are laid out for identification. A signed log book has to be completed in detail, listing valuable wildlife experiences. Valid First Aid certificates and LPHG licences are essential.

This interview Image: Above is daunting Chris Pakenham and the anxiety discusses ballistics shows through if unprepared but again, it gives an insight as to what can be expected for their final exam. On completion, the candidate will be advised whether or not to attempt the proficiency.


Course content is Image: Above vast and despite A land cruiser filled being intense, it is with candidates almost impossible crosses a dry river bed to cover everything in a few days. To be proficient in this industry takes years of hard work. Image: Right Walks allow Learners cleaning for skill sets, weapons including tracking, identification of fauna, flora, skulls, birds and even dung to be tested and honed and every track or sign on the ground tells a story which can be deciphered. Back at camp, old exam papers are discussed. Presentations and workshops on an assortment of topics are held throughout the day covering law and regulations pertaining to parks and wildlife, cleaning, handling and safety of weapons, ballistics, first aid, backpack contents, tree identification, geology, palaeontology, astronomy, photography, vehicle maintenance, radio procedures, GPS use, animal taxonomy, hospitality and ethics. The ‘A’ group, arrive a day earlier and are required to set up a camp consisting of everything from guest toilets to threecourse dining facilities which will be presented to several examiners on the actual proficiency. This mock camp set-up is of great benefit as lecturers discuss the campsite and offer suggestions and advice on what to improve. 54 March/April 2019

Image: Left Dave Langerman teaching identification of a male leopard tortoise.

This type of course experience is crucial for those who choose to make guiding a career. "Chooks" Langerman, one of the coordinators of the course, tells the story of a South African guide who, on hearing about the high quality of the Zimbabwean guides, decided to attend the course. At one point he was seen sitting with his head in his hands. His response to a question of concern was that his head was about to explode with all the information that had been presented to him! Prior to the proficiency, which is administered by National Parks with the assistance of members from the private sector, guides are required to pass both the interview and rifle range test. If they fail either one of these, they go home. If they pass, they are then allowed to continue to the proficiency which is held at a later date. Guides in Zimbabwe have the unsurpassed reputation for being among the best in the world and this would not be possible without the indispensable input from our National Parks examiners and the dedication of the people who sacrifice their time to share their skills and impart their knowledge to upcoming protĂŠgĂŠs. On behalf of our proud tourism industry, deep gratitude must be passed on to all concerned.

Image: Above An array of horns, skulls, trees and skins to identify

Image: Right Guest tent and dining area

Course information:

Chooks Langerman

Contact ZPHGA TELEPHONE: +263 24 2779792 MOBILE: + 263 (0) 733 316 739 or +263 (0) 772 766 741 WEBSITE: EMAIL :

Email: Mobile: +27 (0) 76 886 5091

For details on Mokore Camp, view their website:


56 March/April 2019

Technical Operations Division The Technical Operations Division was established to provide engineering, Maintenance, Repair and Overhaul (MRO) services of aircraft engines and components for Air Zimbabwe as well as third party customers who include other airlines and non-aviation customers. The maintenance workshop offers diverse career opportunities for both male and female engineers. It boasts of local, seasoned and fully qualified technical staff, who have received commendations of excellence from the world’s leading aircraft manufacturers such as Boeing, for their sterling work in aircraft modifications and mandatory checks and services. As a result, Air Zimbabwe became the first Airline to successfully execute a Strut Improvement program on the B767 and has continued to excel thereafter to maintain an enviable safety record.

The Air Zimbabwe engineering facility offers a variety of services to the following industries:

Motor Trade, Transport, Mining, Engineering, Manufacturing, Construction, Earthmoving Equipment, Plastics, Printing Industries tertiary and other higher learning institutions.

Non Destructive Testing • Ultrasonic Inpection • Eddy current inspection • Magnetic particle inspection • Dye penetrant inspection • Bore scope inspection • Weld inspection • Static and dynamic balancing

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For more information please contact Air Zimbabwe Technical Marketing Department on 575111 Ext 2121 or Process Shop on 575111 Ext 2135/2622 or Machine Shop on 575111 Ext 2479 or Metrology on 575111 Ext 2637 Andries Mpofu



Argentinian Prawns in a garden green pesto

Recipe Chef Lawrence, Executive Group Training Chef for Legacy Hotels Zimbabwe

INGREDIENTS for 4 •Argentinian Prawns •800 g •White Fish fumet/ •stock 250g •Courgettes skin 50 g •Brocoli Fleurets 50 g •Fresh Basil 20 g •Pine nuts 20 g •Olive oil 50 ml •Salt – White Pepper

FOR THE PRAWNS Shell the prawns delicately without damaging the flesh. Make a little cut on the tail part of the prawns and pull out the vein. Arrange the prawns, four to a portion and hold them together with a couple of toothpicks. Keep in the fridge. FOR THE FISH WHITE FUMET Use the shells of the prawns to make the stock. Pour water over the shells to cover, bring to a gentle boil with an aromatic garnish (onion, celery, bay leaf, coriander seeds, star anise). Allow the fumet to infuse slowly for about 30 minutes and then sieve it. FOR THE PESTO Blanche the courgette skin, then the broccoli and lastly the basil in boiling water and cool them in ice water. Strain the vegetables keeping them moist and blend with the olive oil and pine nuts so as to obtain a smooth pesto.

58 March/April 2019

FOR COOKING Put some of the fumet in a shallow cooking pan and bring it to a temperature of about 75 degrees celsius. Season and place the prawns in the hot fumet, cover the pan and leave to cook for +/- 5 minutes on the side of the stove. In the meantime, pour the rest of the fumet in a sauce pan, bring it to a boil and add the pesto to your liking so as to obtain a green shiny pesto sauce. Season with salt and white pepper. PLATING Pour the pesto sauce evenly on the bottom of the plate. Remove the toothpicks and plate the prawns in the middle. Drizzle over some olive oil and decorate with fresh herbs to finish your Argentinian prawns.


Romantic BEEF FILLET With Roasted Cauliflower, Rocket, Raspberries and Mustard Lemon Drizzle.


Prep Time



Cooking Time


STEP 1: Pre-heat the oven to 220 degrees. Cut the cauliflower florets from the stalk and discard the stalk. Toss the florets in 2 tbsp. olive oil and season well with salt and pepper. Place the cauliflower on a baking tray in the oven to roast for 20 minutes. STEP 2: To make the mustard lemon drizzle, squeeze the lemon. Pour 1/2 cup olive oil into your blender, add the mustard, lemon juice and 1/2 tsp. of ground black pepper. Blend until you have a thick sauce, season with salt and set aside. STEP 3: Next, strip the thyme leaves from the stalks. Grid up the coriander seeds, peppercorns, thyme leaves and 1 tsp. sea salt with a pestle and mortar or a Bullet if you have one. Remove from the blender and coat the beef fillet in the mixture. STEP 4: Heat a grill pan over medium-high heat, add 2 tbsp. butter and once piping hot, add the fillet. Cook the fillet for about 8 to 10 minutes, turning at intervals once each side is browned and slightly charred. Remove from the pan and place on a board to rest for 5 minutes. Slice the fillet as pictured. STEP 5: Remove the cauliflower from the oven. Shred the rocket and divide it between dinner plates. Divide the cauliflower between plates and add the raspberries and fillet slices on top. Drizzle over the mustard lemon drizzle and serve immediately.


YOU ORDER ...delicious and easy to make recipes, invented by local chefs


Medium INGREDIENTS 400g beef fillet 1 tbsp. coriander seeds 1 pack thyme 800g cauliflower 2 packs rocket 100g raspberries 1 lemon 2 tbsp. mustard FROM THE STORE CUPBOARD 2 tbsp. + 1/2 cup olive oil 2 tbsp. butter 1 tbsp. black peppercorns 1 tsp. sea salt Salt and black pepper to season.




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Washington Black

Every Breath

Michelle Obama

Esi Edugyan

Nicholas Sparks

In the best-selling book in the United States for the year 2018, Becoming is Michelle Obama’s intimate retelling of her own story, on her own terms. She takes us through her roots, her experiences in the White House, her public health campaign, and her role as a mother. Warm, wise, and revelatory, it is the deeply personal reckoning of a woman of soul and substance who has steadily defied expectations—and whose story inspires us to do the same.

Washington “Wash” Black, an eleven-yearold field slave, knows no other life than the Barbados sugar plantation where he was born. Becoming his master’s eccentric brother’s manservant, Wash is initiated into a world where a flying machine can carry a man across the sky; where two people, separated by an impossible divide, might begin to see each other as human; and where a boy born in chains can embrace a life of dignity and meaning.

From New York Times bestselling author, Nicholas Sparks, comes the story of Hope Anderson, a thirty-six-year-old at a crossroads and Tru Walls, a safari guide born and raised in Zimbabwe seeking his truth. As they cross paths, their connection is as electric as it is unfathomable but ultimately gives way to the question, “how long can a dream survive?”

The Reckoning


John Grisham

Sarah Perry

Pete Banning: a decorated World War II hero; the patriarch of a prominent family; a farmer; a father; a neighbour and a faithful member of the Methodist church. One cool October morning he rose early, drove into town, walked into the church, and calmly shot and killed his pastor and friend, the Reverend Dexter Bell. Pete’s only statement about it to the sheriff, to his lawyers, to the judge, to the jury, and to his family was: “I have nothing to say.” A man not afraid to die and willing to take his motive to the grave

Helen Franklin’s life alters when her friend Karel discovers a mysterious letter in the library, a strange confession and a curious warning that speaks of Melmoth the Witness, a dark legend found in obscure fairy tales and antique village lore. For centuries, the mysterious dark-robed figure has roamed the globe, searching for those whose complicity and cowardice have fed into the rapids of history’s darkest waters and now unaware, Helen is being watched.

60 March/April 2019

Painted Wolves: A Wild Dog’s Life

Nicholas Dyer and Peter Blinston

These are the gripping tales from those who walk alongside the painted wolves, Tait, Blacktip and Tammy, every day. Following on from the in-depth BBC series, Dynasties: Painted Wolf, Blinston gives us a deep insight into conserving the painted wolves near Hwange where they must battle both each other and man whilst Dyer entrances us with each brilliant photograph.


LOCATION Busters sports club, Bulawayo For bookings: 078 587 1510 Email

LOCATION Corner Livingstone & Adam Stander Drive Adjacent to the Railway crossing. For bookings: +263 213 2847326 I Cell: +263 774341911 Email



NZ RA Travel Zimbabwe


win! NZiRA Travel Magazine has teamed up with Hooked Fishing Shop and Man Cave to bring you the exclusive chance to win a Contigo Travel Mug worth US$20.

To Enter Get online, like our Facebook pages ( andďŹ shermanscornerharare/) and send Nzira a message with your name and email address on Facebook

Mango de Tzondzo MOZAMBIQUE

Email :- Tel :- +27 790 390 824

What to expect A modern clean and well appointed house with large windows and sliding/stacking beach front doors. All 5 bedrooms have air conditioning, en-suite bathrooms,hair dryers and fitted wardrobes. The 6th is a bunk room with 3 bunks,also air conditioned & attached is a crib with changing table,Mosquito net attachment for the crib,high chair feeding table & moveable stairs barrier. The main bedroom's bathroom has a bath & large shower.

What to expect The kitchen is well equipped with two Minushouse 40 fridges, with 2 additional stand by fridges (1 has icemaker),stand alone ice maker,chest A modern clean and well appointed large windows and sliding/stacking beach front doors. All 5 freezers,dishwasher, washing machine and tumble dryer. There is a gas stove / oven. bedrooms have air conditioning, en-suite bathrooms,hair dryers and fitted wardrobes. The 6th is a bunk room The property comes with a large braai & Weber BBQ. with 3 bunks,also air conditioned & attached is a crib with changing table,Mosquito net attachment for the Fromfeeding the veranda you can see& themoveable start of the bazaruto archipelago with Paradise and bedroom's Bazaruto Island in view. During the crib,high chair table stairs barrier. TheIsland main bathroom has a bath & large right season you are also likely to see whales, dolphins and turtles when out at sea. The property overlooks the Indian Ocean with shower. amazing sun rise views. No internet/wifi provided; however

there is a vodacom aerial near the house which provides good cellular and data signal.

The kitchen Guest is well equipped with two Minus 40 fridges, 2 additional stand by fridges (1 has icemaker),stand access The property can be accessed by dirt road behind the dunes and it is a machine short 8 minute drive from the centre ofdryer. Inhassoro.There The road is a gas stove / oven. alone ice maker,chest freezers,dishwasher, washing and tumble from Inhassoro is unpaved 4x4 vehicle recommended GPS co-ordinates Latitude -21,5813 Longditude 35,2460

Guest services The property comes with team a large braai & Weber There is a management available that service the house. BBQ. They can be called when needed. Management can ,sometimes, arrange extra services, such as home help, cleaners, maids etc at an additional cost.Its recommended you inform them if required early as it's not always available. Please ensure you get a quote

for these services. From the veranda you can see the start of the bazaruto archipelago with Paradise Island and Bazaruto Island Sue Dunlap - +25 88 4300 5592 in view. During right season +25 you are8388 also likely to see whales, dolphins and turtles when out at sea. The Debbiethe - 88 4417 property overlooks the Indian Ocean with amazing sun rise views. Other things to note You can hire boats from local companies in Inhassoro which are ideal for day trips to Paradise Island and the Archipelago. This is perfect for deep sea fishing, snorkeling or scuba diving if you have the equipment.

No internet/wifi provided; however there is a vodacom aerial near the house which provides good cellular We recommend MARLIN FISHING CHARTERS (Charles Lee - +25 88 4706 6784) who have competitive rates. and data signal. Weblink:

Guest access The property can be accessed by dirt road behind the dunes and it is a short 8 minute drive from the centre of Inhassoro. The road from Inhassoro is unpaved 4x4 vehicle recommended GPS co-ordinates Latitude -21,5813 Longditude 35,2460 Guest services There is a management team available that service the house. They can be called when needed. Management can ,sometimes, arrange extra services, such as home help, cleaners, maids etc at an additional cost.Its recommended you inform them if required early as it's not always available. Please ensure you get a quote for these services. Sue Dunlap - +25 88 4300 5592 Debbie - +25 88 4417 8388 Other things to note You can hire boats from local companies in Inhassoro which are ideal for day trips to Paradise Island and the Archipelago. This is perfect for deep sea fishing, snorkeling or scuba diving if you have the equipment. We recommend MARLIN FISHING CHARTERS (Charles Lee - +25 88 4706 6784) who have competitive rates. Weblink: +263 774 641622


In case you missed it

Two Countries, One Cause A 10km run in support of Saving the Elephants of the Zambezi Valley

To support the Zambezi Elephant Fund kindly visit their website or email their team on

Article Shelley Cox Images Zambezi Elephant Fund, LPG Films and Photo & Steven Chikosi

On November 17 2018, in two different time zones, an estimated 1 200 people began their day with an early morning, tying the laces of their running shoes and ready to show their support for the Zambezi Elephant Fund and their ongoing anti-poaching efforts. The Mukuvisi Woodlands in Zimbabwe’s capital, Harare, could not have been a more apt location to hold the inaugural Zambezi Elephant Fund Mukuvisi March for Elephants in unity with the main event held in Central Park, New York. Over 500 Zimbabweans led the stampede as they set out on their run/ walk just after 8am around the natural and stunningly beautiful protected miombo woodlands. The crowd formed a snake-like appearance from the air as individuals and families, with their prams, kids and dogs, moved through the indigenous woodlands counting down each of the 10km. Eight hours later and 12 558km or so away, a crowd began gathering in snowladen Central Park, to begin the main event. The start line quickly resembled a long train of Zimbabwean flags with a mixture of Zimbabweans travelling or living abroad; guests who had previously visited or become frequent visitors of Zimbabwe; elephant lovers; conservationists; and running fans keen to support a good cause. This heart-warming gathering only highlights the great importance that these magnificent elephants have to the people of Zimbabwe and supporters from across the world.



Upcoming Events Getting you off your screen and out of your house


Zimbabwe & Zambia - Rallid Quest 2019 23 February – 02 March As part of a series of tours never done before in birding history Rallied Quest will take you across borders for rare sightings. This unique tour is dedicated to finding mythical and ultra-difficult rallids and flufftails as well as a number of other regional endemics along the way

Ultra South Africa (Johannesburg and Cape Town) 01 – 02 March

Matobo Heritage Mountain bike Challenge 20 – 24 March The challenge incorporates three days of biking through the Matobo Hills World Heritage Site from the lowest to highest points. Including exclusive permission to ride in the Matobo Game Park, home to Zimbabwe’s most significant rhino herd, as well as riding through numerous rural areas and private farms, all within the Matobo Hills. Cape Town International Jazz Festival (Cape Town, South Africa) 29 – 30 March Jazzablanca Festival 2019 (Cassablanca, Morocco) 14 –22 April 22

A’sambeni – Zimbabwe International Trade Fair 23-27 Apr 2019 This annual gathering of the local and international tourism and travel industry is the opportunity for leading hotels, venues and event suppliers to meet and network with a focus on business tourism, the focal point of the expo, and develop travel and tourism interest in Zimbabwe and Africa as a whole AfrikaBurn (Northen Cape, South Africa) 29 April – 05 May Bushfire Festival (Malkerns Valley, Swaziland) 24 – 26 May

64 March/April 2019

Puzzles & Games Sudoku Medium

Crossword by Mary-Anne 1


2 9

6 3



1 2












23 24

15 18 21

22 25





29 30

TURN YOUR PHONE INTO A PANIC BUTTON SAFEGUARD-SOS turns your phone into an emergency response device that guarantees the fastest possible response, when away from home. Medical, security and roadside assistance countrywide. The App tracks your location, and alerts the nearest Safeguard Response team. It’s like having a bodyguard on standby!


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Available for download at our Appstore or visit LIKE AND FOLLOW US ON:

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The SAFEGUARD-SOS application is subject to terms and conditions of use. These terms exist to protect the application from being abused, and to ensure that you, the user are also protected. Please read the Terms and Conditions carefully when registering and downloading the Application. You will be requested to confirm that you have read and understood them . Please also be aware that SAFEGUARD-SOS cover is only applicable if you make your monthly payment. Defaulting on payment will lead to suspension on our system.

ACROSS 2. F Fisher wore a badge in the Wild West (7) 7. No cog in this African country (5) 8. The clue is normal (5) 10. A palm soon becomes home to wild dogs in Zimbabwe (4,5) 12. Tutor prefers fish (5) 13. A lord’s term of respect (3) 15. Pry into the answer (5) 16. Which way will you go? (5) 17. Without a bridge, this river flows through a university town (3) 18. Estimate the size of the railway (5) 19. British MP in the Netherlands (5) 20. Cry for help from Abba (3) 22. Flower runs into the Bay of Biscay (5) 23. Yeats says the tavern doesn’t charge in Ireland. (9) 28. The South is the latest country (5) 29. The one in the boat with the oars (5) 30. Does ern approve? (7)




DOWN 1. First in Italy (3) 2. A sod mixes with whisky (4) 3. Matches peers (6) 4. Not living or playing outside (6) 5. You need it to get started (4) 6. One of a group in a den (3) 7. They range over central England (8,5) 9. Vital for safety in a boat (4,9) 10. The highest point of view in Japan (5,4) 11. Grip a nose in an Asian city state (9) 14. O had I been back to this US state (5) 20. Bread is best like this (6) 21. Tolerate bear (6) 24. Nary a one (4) 25. Irish Republic (4) 26. Definitely not even (3) 27. More than one (3)








10. Mount Fuji 11. Singapore 14. Idaho 20. Sliced 21. Suffer 24. None 25. Eire 26. Odd 27. Two






1. Uno 2. Soda 3. Equals 4. Indoor 5. Fuel 6. Cub 7. Chiltern Hills 9. Life preserver




17. Cam 18. Gauge 19. Hague 20. SOS 22. Loire 23. Innisfree 28. Sudan 29. Rower 30. Endorse




2. Sheriff 7. Congo 8. Usual 10. Mana Pools 12. Trout 13. Sir 15. Snoop 16. Route




The Bark of the Urban Baboon

The New Normal Article and Images MAFUNGI


ith all the uncertainty we are going through in Zimbabwe at the moment, it pays to have a firm grip on some tangibles that affect our everyday lives. Here at Rockyvale, in the leafy northern suburbs of Harare, we like to host Chameleon Safaris at this time of year. The whole experience is brought about by decades of range management that ensures we have an environment suitable for the adult reptiles to live, grow, mate and reproduce. Year after year they do not let us down. A little bit like an honest politician, chameleons are very difficult to spot in the full glare of the day. However, at night they are easy to see under the light of a flashlight or even with the naked eye during full moon periods. The female will lay her eggs in a hole she carefully scrapes out in the soft earth in February or March. After laying eggs 20 – 30 cm deep in the ground, she will cover the nest, camouflage the surface so there is no evidence of digging and leave them to develop. About six weeks after onset of the first rains, the young will start to emerge from their underground incubators.

66 March/April 2019

Somehow they break out of their leathery eggs, scramble and clamber through the rain-softened soil and then up the nearest plant in the vicinity. Each day they will move further and further away from the nest site. Most years we get from 40 to 100 young born overseen by us and other avid Chameleon Safari enthusiasts. We were extremely worried this year that we were going to see a glitch in this fascinating cycle of life. During the past rainy season, we found three or four clutches of eggs on the ground, lying in their umbilical sacs. No sign of the mothers. It turns out they had been devoured by a predator, probably a domestic cat, with a taste for skinny reptiles, but not for their fresh eggs. I buried these in a suitable spot with soft soil and waited the Chameleon Safaris. 9 months for signs of emergence. Bonanza, just before Christmas we found the first few babies clinging to the grass stalks at night and soon after the New Year we commenced our Safaris.

Dozens of satisfied customers have been to see this amazing annual phenomenon. Some from as far afield as Canada, Spain, Ireland, Sweden, Switzerland and even Bulawayo and the southern and western suburbs of Harare! The young cling to grass stalks and herbaceous plants at night, getting away from the predators that are earthbound like toads, snakes and spiders. By day they drop down into the undergrowth and are almost impossible to see because of their camouflage. No bushfires, no chemicals in the garden, keeping the potential predators at bay and a suitable natural environment, all lead to a chameleon-friendly home, but you will have to attend a Chameleon Safari to get the tricks of the trade!

These are held each year during the months of January, February and March. Usually on a Friday evening but sometimes other arrangements can be accommodated. There is no charge, but a donation to SPCA or similar animal welfare organisations is encouraged. Bring your own snacks, drinks, torches, raincoats and stout footwear. Safaris commence at 6pm and are usually over by 8.30pm. Enquiries in the first instance to Rob at e-mail or phone +263 (0) 783 383 214. Groups of 10 to 15 are encouraged, kids especially welcome.

An Experience to Remember

From the mighty Victoria Falls, to crisp mountain air in Nyanga, to watching wildlife up close in Hwange - we have the perfect blend of facilities to keep young and old entertained, engaged and in love with the Zimbabwe landscape Book your Easter stay and save up to 20% T's and C's apply Tel: +263 (0) 772 128 131, +263 242 704 501, or +263 (0) 86 77004651. Email - 68 March/April 2019

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