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NEWS OCTOBER 2021
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Deer Rut Timeline: The 7 Stages and How to Hunt Them By Kevin Wilson Guidefitter www.guidefitter.com
elebrated and studied ad infinitum, the whitetail deer’s C annual cycle is constantly under appraisal. While we traditionally think of the rut as a November phenomenon – or later with some southern subspecies – the earliest stage actually begins as soon as bucks lose their velvet. Throughout the next four months deer advance through seven clearly identifiable phases. Adapt your hunt strategies for each, and success will follow.
Stage 1: Transition from Velvet to Hard Antler, Start of the Pre-Rut The shedding of antlers and impending regrowth is an annual occurrence. Velvet antlers are highly vascular and grow rapidly to reach full potential by the end of August, which aligns with the earliest hunting seasons. Lasting less than a week, this change from velvet to hard antler marks the true beginning and earliest stage of the prolonged pre-rut. As soon as the velvet disappears, bucks begin making boundary scrapes and rubs throughout their home range. Even though the transition itself is brief, this pre-rut behavior continues through September and October until bucks step up their search for receptive does. In agricultural areas, the year’s first scrapes begin to show up along field edges and tree lines. Likewise, a few rubs will be evident in similar areas. These are more territorial markers, but as things heat up from mid-October on, rubs and scrapes become focal communication tools. Stage 2: Seeking Phase of the Pre-Rut By more contemporary description, the pre-rut heats up and younger bucks in particular start to move more near the end of October as both bucks and does visit and urinate in scrapes. Scrapes are almost always made under some type of overhanging branches. These are referred to as licking branches because bucks lick and rub their orbital glands on them to deposit scent. Urine and glandular secretions contain pheromones that indicate breeding readiness. Other deer visiting these sites detect the hormonally charged scents to identify which deer was there, and whether they were bucks or does. The seeking phase is best described as the general two- to three-week period just before the majority of does go into estrus. Ask most hunters to define this phase, and they’ll probably say it’s the time when young bucks become eager to breed and begin moving more during daylight hours in search of receptive does. What many hunters don’t know is the pre-rut is actually a much longer, drawn-out occurrence – a time when bucks begin to move throughout their home range, mark territory, and inventory does. By late October, the photo phase’s shorter days prompt bucks to prepare for breeding; they know that does will soon be receptive. This broadly defined seeking phase occurs approximately between Oct. 24 and Nov. 9. Survival of each species depends on the rut cycles, and it’s as guaranteed as the rising and setting of the sun. For bow hunters or in jurisdictions where gun hunting seasons allow, this is a great time to be in the deer woods. During the seeking phase, bucks eagerly respond to doe bleats, buck grunts, and rattling. The best strategy a stand or blind hunter can employ during this phase is setting up along a heavily used scrape line, or in a known funnel or transition zone.
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Volumes have been written about the whitetail deer rut. In an effort to simplify a rather complex subject, it can be broken down into seven basic stages. Understand what motivates deer during each of these, and your chances of closing a tag go way up! Photo Credit: Kevin Wilson
If you believe in moon phase influences on deer behavior, the late Charles Alsheimer is perhaps the best-known authority. According to Alsheimer, the seeking phase peaks three to four days before and after the rutting moon, which he defines as “the second full moon after the autumnal equinox.” Through his research, he has identified that bucks will make as many as six to 12 scrapes per hour at the height of the seeking phase. In other words, bucks are on the move and your chances of encountering the highly secretive whitetail during this phase increase exponentially. Given Alsheimer’s scientific explanations, the timing of the seeking phase and advancement into the chasing phase of the rut can vary by a few days. In general terms the seeking phase begins as early as the third or fourth week in October and transitions sometime around the second week in November. In slight contrast, my own research over the last 30 years suggests that moon phase plays a less significant role and that undisturbed does in any given area will, without exception, go into heat within a consistent 24- to 72-hour timeframe each and every year. Much like people, their estrus cycle can, of course, be manipulated slightly by imposing manmade influences like hunting pressure.
Photo credit: Kevin Wilson
According to famed whitetail authority Charles Alsheimer, bucks will make as many as six to twelve scrapes per hour at the height of the seeking phase.
(continued in page 32)
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Hunting & Fishing News | 5
Photo courtesy www.tablemountainoutfitters.com
FROM HARVEST TO TAXIDERMIST
HOW TO MANAGE YOUR TROPHY
By Zach Lazzari Table Mountain Outfitters www.tablemountainoutfitters.com ur hunters here at Table Mountain Outfitters enjoy high O success rates, and many will want to preserve the memories of their adventure with a shoulder mount or other taxidermy.
If you are considering a mount, do some advance planning to help make sure you get what you were hoping for and a quality end product. Of course, our guided hunters have the advantage of hunting alongside our expert guides who will manage the caping and processing. Even so, it’s best to have a plan in place before your hunt. CAPING AND FIELD DRESSING It pays to communicate with your taxidermist before the hunt. Ask about their preference for caping or skinning styles and try to decide if you want a shoulder mount versus a full body mount in advance. A shoulder mount is the more common choice but certain animals deserve a full display. If you need recommendations for a taxidermist, please LET US KNOW. We’d be happy to put you in touch with one of our recommended local taxidermists here in Wyoming. We highly recommend selecting a taxidermist that’s an expert on the particular species you’ll be hunting. For example, antelope are not deer. Therefore, we’d recommend going with a high quality Wyoming taxidermist who is familiar with the intricacies of that species. When you’ve contacted your taxidermist, then be sure and also communicate your wishes with your hunting guide when you arrive for the hunt. Make sure you are both on the same page. When we skin an animal for a shoulder mount, it’s always best to leave as much neck, chest and shoulder hide as possible. Many taxidermists want the hide intact down to the middle rib section. You will still retrieve all the meat by rolling up the hide but having that extra room to work really helps the taxidermist. Pull the hide all the way up to the base of the neck and separate the head from the carcass.
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If you’re hunting on your own this year, we recommend researching video tutorials in advance and carry notes in the field if necessary. You really want to take your time and get this part done correctly. Again, those hunting with our guides this season will have the benefit of an expert handing their trophy. In most cases, leaving the skin attached to the skull is just fine. This leaves the technical caping cuts around the eyes, nose and lips for the professional taxidermist. TRANSPORTATION FROM THE FIELD After the field dressing process, the meat is removed and the head and cape are ready for transportation from the field. We recommend using a quality game bag for the head and cape. This will keep it clean and maintain breathability during transport. If you plan to leave your animal with a taxidermist here in Wyoming, we can have it picked up or delivered very quickly. If you plan to take it out of state however, long term storage and care before taxidermy will require a full caping and cold storage to prevent decay. For best results, only store for a day or two and get the animal to a taxidermist ASAP. STORAGE AND TAXIDERMY This part really depends on the amount of time between harvest and delivery to a taxidermist. Using a local taxidermist means you can immediately deliver the animal without any risk of decay or freezer burn. If you must store the hide and skull for a few days, keep it cool and dry. Using a cooler where the hide will not contact the ice or moisture is ideal. For longer storage, clean off blood and roll the hide before wrapping tightly in a plastic bag. Remove as much air as possible to prevent freezer burn and store in a deep freezer. Freezing is really only necessary for remote hunts that require time between harvest and taxidermy. In most cases when traveling to and from Wyoming, you’ll be able to skip the freeze and go straight to the taxidermist for a clean mount.
Photo courtesy www.tablemountainoutfitters.com
CONTACT US WITH QUESTIONS If you have questions about an upcoming hunt or how to prepare, please don’t hesitate to contact us...it’s not too soon to begin preparing for 2022 or beyond! Give us a call at 307-632-6352 or email tmohunts@gmail.com.
BIG DEER Predicts Early Trickle Rut For 2021 By Mike Hanback Big Deer Blog www.bigdeerblog.com or many years the late, great whitetail behaviorist and F hunting expert Charles Alsheimer produced his annual Whitetail Calendar, with predictions on how whitetails would rut each fall based on environmental cues like the light intensity of the moon.
According to Charlie, in a fall like 2021 when you have a full moon in mid-October and another one in mid-November, the pump is primed for a classic “trickle rut.” “Some does will cue off the October full moon (and come into estrous) while others will cue off the November full moon,” Alsheimer wrote in Deer and Deer Hunting magazine. “So late October you get a pop in the rut, and then Thanksgiving week you get another pop in the rut, and in-between ebbs and flows (of rutting activity).” Another expert who believes the deer movement will be better than usual this October is my buddy Mark Drury, the television star who films and hunts giants on his Iowa farms. “I think the ‘October Lull’ will be a better time to see mature bucks on their feet this year because of the full moon on October 20,” he says
Photo credit: YAY Images|www.depositphotos.com
“If temperatures are cool, and especially if you get a major cold front in your area, mid-October could be one of the best times to hunt.” Drury notes there will be a rising moon from 15 October through the 20th, and then a setting moon to follow for 5 days out to October 25. “If it’s cold you better be in a stand these days,” he says. “It’s still October, so most of the daylight buck activity will be around food sources, especially in the afternoons.” I know many of you typically take off work for a week in November, but if you want to change it up, October 20 through the waning gibbous moon on the 27th wouldn’t be a bad week to try this season.
Hunting & Fishing News | 7
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WHAT ARE “CALL SHY” BULLS? AND HOW DO YOU KILL THEM? By Jake Horton Originally published at
www.goHUNT.com
Photo credit: Sam Sarbacher
ith more and more hunters heading into the mountains W to chase bull elk, mature bulls seem to get smarter and more call shy year after year. Personally, I have found that
bulls react less to calls and find bulls that actually respond to calls is now the exception, not the norm. A lot of this is due to hunting pressure and the popularity of calling due to hunters on YouTube and other media combined with the drive of the average hunter to go deeper into the elk mountains in search of the sweet sounds of a bugling bull. A lot of the reason bulls are call shy is because of an interaction with a hunter who is calling in situations that are not successful. The bulls determine that the call is coming from a human, not another elk. No matter why, our job as hunters is to adapt and figure out how to harvest a bull — whether he is “call shy” or not. To do this, we might need to adjust our old strategies and use new ones to chase and harvest the call shy bulls of today’s public land elk hunting experience. WHAT IS A “CALL SHY” BULL AND WHY DO THEY EXIST? In short, a “call shy” bull is one that hears you calling and doesn’t react or turns the other way and gets out of there. In that situation, you might think that your calling is subpar, but that is not always the case. Some bulls just become “call shy” over the season or over the course of their life, which is a mode of survival. You might sound exactly like an elk, but something about your calling sequence, pattern or sound just doesn’t sit right with them. Why does this happen? Like most animals in the mountains, elk are survivors, which means they survive the elements and survive predators. Hunters are a natural predator to an elk and
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they learn to avoid contact. When a hunter calls with the wind blowing towards an elk, calls in a bull and spooks it, overcalls a bull or makes other various mistakes, elk learn and associate that situation with danger. When they hear it again, they may even go into flee mode and head towards a different drainage. You cannot always determine what bull is “call shy,” but some techniques can help improve your chances of harvesting a bull — even a “call shy” one. CALL LESS A massive problem that a lot of hunters have and that can create “call shy” bulls is overcalling. Elk are often very vocal creatures and, if you have ever been near an elk herd, you will hear cows calling and talking to each other. Though this is true, as a hunter, there are some negatives associated with joining that conversation. If you call too often, there is a chance that the bull determines you are not an elk. If the bull does come in, he will know exactly where to look for an elk and, if he doesn’t see one, he will spook. Or a bull might hang up a hundred yards out of sight and wait for you to go to him. None of these scenarios lead to you killing a bull. I find my best success is to call a few times, then move slightly and wait 10 to 15 minutes before calling again. Do not make a mistake thinking that they cannot hear you because they most likely can if you are within a few hundred yards or more. A bull might even bugle once and then head in your direction, so calling sparingly and being patient may encourage him to sound off again in search of your location. Call less and find more success this fall. SPOT AND STALK If you locate a bull in a highly pressured unit, it may make sense to consider spot and stalk in lieu of calling. Some hunters wait for the bulls to bed and then sneak within a hundred yards or less if possible. Some stalk them while they are feeding. If you stalk them while bedded and get close, you have the option to call sparingly or wait for the bull to stand up and mill around. This usually happens around midday, especially if there is a change in weather or if it is hot and the bull is thirsty. Some hunters choose to spot and stalk elk as they move through transition zones. This can be beneficial because it allows a little more sound and movement since elk also move and create sound. The trick is to get at the right spot at the right time to intersect while keeping the wind in your favor. Whenever you are spot and stalking, you need to be aware of the wind and thermal changes. A swirling wind can ruin a perfect stalk in seconds, so always err on the side of caution. AMBUSH When elk move from bed to feed and back, they often move along a similar travel corridor if undisturbed by pressure or significant wind direction changes. Often, along these corridors are pinch points or places where hunters could set up an ambush. A good ambush has to conceal your body and keep your scent from heading in the direction of the elk. Typically, a mature bull brings up the rear of an elk herd, so you need to fool the eyes and nose of the herd before the bull will walk by. A well-planned ambush can be very successful, especially on patterned and less pressured elk. “Call shy” bulls can be frustrating to a hunter hoping to kill elk in the way he or she sees on TV. Understanding the pressure in your hunting area and adjusting your hunting strategies accordingly might make the difference and help you bring home a bull instead of an empty cooler. Always remember that less calling is more; spot and stalk and ambush hunting elks can be successful. No matter how good a caller you are, you can not change the bull’s instinct to survive. Accept the fact that bulls are more than likely “call shy” and adjust your game to find success, especially on public land.
Using Elk Decoys For Archery And Rifle Hunts By Ryan McSparran Antler Canyon Outfitters, LLC. www.antlercanyonoutfitters.com ou might look a little silly trailing behind a big floppy elk decoy but it can be the Y difference maker in your hunting season. Decoys deliver a major advantage during the close encounters of archery season and they are equally useful during rifle season. During archery, you are typically calling in bulls and setting a decoy puts them at ease and shows the physical presence of a cow. During rifle season, the decoy allows you to hunt thick timber while closing the gap on elk in close proximity. Ultimately, decoys are light, easy to pack along and can play a crucial role in your hunting strategy.
ARCHERY STRATEGIES You can sit behind the decoy or place it in view to distract from your actual position. Photo courtesy www.antlercanyonoutfitters.com Place the decoy in a position that will draw the elk into your shooting lane before he realizes the deception. Pressured bulls often come in on calls but they do not get within range. It’s not uncommon for a bull to come in quietly and spend some time sniffing and judging the risk. If the bull sees a cow on the edge of a meadow, it might push him over the edge and draw him across your lane. The decoy can work as the tipping point during archery season. CLOSING THE GAP ON OPEN TERRAIN Another key use for elk decoys is to close a gap when cover is not available. This strategy works equally well during rifle and archery season. Open terrain is especially difficult and elk have excellent vision. Getting into a shooting position without giving away your location is difficult. Hide behind a decoy and slowing work into position. Make frequent stops like a feeding elk would to avoid alarming the herd. Moving too quickly is suspicious. Use natural breaks in the landscape when possible and consider staking the decoy if you find an opportunity to move undetected. Leaving it staked can hold the attention of other elk while you make a stalk. MOVING THROUGH THICK TERRAIN The late rifle season is difficult and the elk are weary. They stick to heavy, timbered slopes where shooting lanes are limited and hiking is difficult. Hunting this terrain also means close encounters are possible and you will have a limited amount of time before the elk spook and disappear out of sight. Stalking these hillsides will sometimes lead to chance encounters where you literally run into each other. Walking behind a decoy will buy you time when you bump into a group of elk. They will see the decoy and sit tight rather than busting out of range. The decoy buys you precious moments needed to setup and take a shot before the elk are gone for good.
Hunting & Fishing News | 9
4 Tips to Remember On An Antelope Hunt
By Ryan McSparran Antler Canyon Outfitters www.antlercanyonoutfitters.com ntelope are notoriously cagey animals with excellent vision. Approaching them across open country can be extremely challenging. Antelope are also one of the most difficult animals to judge in the field, making it especially difficult to locate a buck with serious trophy potential. When it comes to hunting the pronghorn, one of North America’s most unique animals, here are a few important tips to keep in mind. 1. Antelope Rely on Their Vision Unlike hunting deer or elk, a pronghorn’s first line of defense is not its nose. The greatest obstacle to getting within range of an antelope is not being seen. Antelope rely on their eyesight and their speed as their primary defenses. Noise and wind are usually lesser factors when putting a stalk on a mature antelope buck. You can often get away with having the wind at your back. And since many antelope live in places with lots of ranch and oil field activity, human noise may not bother them. But if they catch you approaching on foot, even at long distances, they may not stick around. 2. Carefully Plan The Stalk Knowing that antelope rely heavily on their vision, it is important to plan your stalk with an approach that keeps you out of their line of sight until you’re within range. In most areas, antelope aren’t bothered by vehicle traffic. So use any available road system to find the best starting point. Just don’t open the truck doors until you’re out of sight.
A
The terrain in pronghorn country may look flat at first glance. But when you look closely, you’ll notice that even a shallow creek bed or subtle rise is enough to provide cover. Use any advantage you can find to stalk within range. In some situations, you might even have to get down on your hands and knees. 3. Be Prepared for Long Shots Hunting skittish animals in wide-open country can often lead to long shots. You don’t have to be a long distance marksman. But you should be comfortable with your rifle out to 300 yards. Always do your best to close the distance. But in many situations, being able to shoot reliably at these distances will provide an advantage. Ideally, you should be practicing with your rifle year round, not just in the weeks leading up to your hunt. Of course this isn’t unique to antelope hunting. No matter what game you’re pursuing, practice with your weapon should be a high priority. Be comfortable with your rifle and know exactly what to expect at 300 yards or beyond. 4. Stay Persistent on a Big Buck Antelope hunting can be frustrating, especially when you blow a stalk or when you just can’t seem to get within range. But like any other hunt, success is often about persistence. It’s important to know that when hunting antelope, a blown stalk doesn’t mean the game is over. You can often get on that same buck again for multiple stalks if necessary. If you get busted, an antelope will quickly put some distance between you and him. Reaching speeds of 55 miles per hour, it doesn’t take long. But as soon as he’s out of sight, they often settle back down. Keep after it, and you may eventually catch him in a vulnerable position.
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Over 41 Years Of Experience Handling Wild Game
WE TURN WILD GAME MEAT INTO SOME OF THE BEST TASTING STUFF AROUND!
Attention Hunters!
RECIPE: CHEESE-STUFFED MULE DEER MEATLOAF By Jared Pierce Originally published at
www.goHUNT.com
SMOKED STUFFED MEATLOAF
I
’ve never been a big fan of meatloaf but I love smoking anything and everything on my pellet smoker, so when I saw a recipe for Smoked Stuffed Meatloaf we had to try it and it quickly became a family favorite. It’s a super easy recipe with a fairly short smoke time and the reward is a juicy, smoky, cheesy meatloaf that everyone in my family loves. For this recipe, I used ground mule deer from my ...Colorado deer hunt, but you can use any ground meat. It only took 2.5 – 3 hours to prepare and cook. I usually make my own BBQ sauce but to make the video a bit simpler I just used store-bought BBQ sauce. If you have the time I’d highly recommend making your own, in my opinion, it tastes a little better. Items needed: 2 pounds ground beef 1/2 cup panko bread crumbs 1/2 medium red onion (grated) 2 cloves garlic (minced) 2 eggs (lightly beaten) 1 Tablespoon Worcestershire sauce 1 Tablespoon homemade steak rub 1/4 cup milk 6 oz pepper jack cheese (cut into strips) Homemade BBQ Sauce: 1/2 cup ketchup 1/3 cup brown sugar 1 Tablespoon homemade steak rub 2 teaspoons crushed red pepper flakes
This fall ALL WILD GAME brought into Western Meat and Sausage Block must be cleaned and de-boned. Western Meat and Sausage block is no longer offering wild game cutting and skinning services and will not accept any carcasses or bone-in wild game meat for processing. Western Meat and Sausage Block will ONLY be accepting cleaned boneless meat to be cubed into steaks, ground into burger, or made into any of our homemade sausages. We feature the finest and tastiest sausages in the State of Montana ranging from breakfast sausage to a variety of smoked sausages, salami, and snack sticks.
Processing will begin October 21st
WESTERN MEAT & SAUSAGE BLOCK 820 Dewey Boulevard - Butte, MT 59701 Phone (406) 494-4319 visit www.westernmeatblock.com
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email: huntingfishingnews@yahoo.com The entire contents is © 2021, all rights reserved. May not be reproduced without prior consent. The material and information printed is from various sources from which there can be no warranty or responsibility by Big Sky Outdoor News & Adventure, Inc. Nor does this material necessarily express the views of Big Sky Outdoor News & Adventure, Inc. All photo & editorial submissions become the property of Big Sky Outdoor News & Adventure, Inc. to use or not use at their discretion. Volume 18 Issue 6 Cover Photo: twildlife|depositphotos.com
To watch Jared’s video on preparing this recipe go to: https://youtu.be/M0Feuo93Nos
Hunting & Fishing News | 11
HOW TO READ WHITETAIL BUCK RUBS By Mike Hanback Big Deer Blog www.bigdeerblog.com
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ere’s how to place value on 4 different buck rubs you’ll find in the woods this month and next, and how to determine which ones will—and won’t—help you pin down the movements of big deer. Type: Ordinary Rub Tree: Pine or cedar 2” to 3” diameter Skinny: If you find 500 rubs, 400 will look sort of like this one. Studies show that bucks blaze ordinary-looking rubs on aromatic cedar or pine trees 70 percent of the time. They pop up from velvet-shedding time in early September on through the rut. Six- or 8-pointers or a giant 10 might make them. You just never know. Hunt Value: Low to moderate. A lot of these rubs, sometimes in clusters, tell you multiple bucks are working your area; at least one Photos courtesy www.bigdeerblog.com ought to have a decent rack. Tactic: Scout close to see if the rubs show a pattern. For example, if 70 percent of them are blazed on the sides of ridges, surmise that bucks are side-hilling most days, rather than walking on ridge tops or down in bottoms. Hang stands accordingly. Type: Violent Rub Tree: Sapling or bush Skinny: A dry, brown thrashing of brush and branches is weeks old and was likely made by a buck as he whipped his neck and rack to rid it of velvet and polish it. Look for a second volley of thrashed and/or snapped saplings or bushes (some yanked out of the ground) from around October 20 until November 15, as bucks prowl and vent pent-up sexual energy until the first does pop into heat. Hunt value: Low to high Tactic: Brown September thrashings don’t mean squat. But definitely hunt on a ridge or in a creek bottom with lots of fresh, ripped bushes and branches now through mid-November. The horny bucks that made those rubs are on the prowl, and one might slip up in daylight hours. Type: Rut Rub Tree: Hardwood, cedar or pine 5” or 6” diameter Skinny: Check out the shavings in the photo above (right), fresh! Look for rubs like this to start popping up in your woods two to three weeks before peak rut (from Halloween on most places). They are often sign that an old deer has come from miles away, expanding his normal range to sniff out more does. As a rule, only mature breeders blaze these. Hunt value: High Tactic: The more of these rubs that pop up on your land the better. Strike quick. Look for the thickest, most secluded cover in the area. You’ll probably find more fresh rubs there, because that is where Mr. Big travels a lot. Set a stand or blind where the wind is right and hunt a week solid in the late pre-rut. The bruiser won’t be on your land every day, but he’ll likely circle through three or four times. You might get him. Type: Signpost Rub Tree: Cedar or pine tree, or fencepost 5” to 8” diameter Skinny: The cedar post (left) is the coolest rub I’ve ever found and the best illustration of a signpost you’ll ever see. Mature bucks blaze them in high-activity spots where other deer can easily see them (the aromatic post is in an enormous Montana wheat field). Different bucks work the rubs year after year (the post was set back in the 1940s, and bucks have smoothed it into an hourglass ever since). Many signposts become community scent-wicks; bucks and does veer over to smell them and rub on pre-orbital/forehead scent. Note: No old deer would be caught rubbing the cedar post out in the open in daylight, so I surmise bucks have worked it at night for 70-plus years during the mid-November rut. Hunt value: Moderate Tactic: I have never set a stand over a signpost per se, but I’ve hung plenty on ridges and in bottoms with the big rubs. A lot of bucks will cruise through a sign-posted area some days this fall and next and next and for decades, though their patterns will be unpredictable. Still, hunt there long enough and you’ll shoot one.
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Fall Fishing Tips And Ideas By Bob Jensen Northland Fishing Tackle www.northlandtackle.com
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... f you like to fish, the fall months can provide some outstanding fishing opportunities... following are some things you can do to take advantage of the fishing action. The fall season provides perhaps the best opportunity for catching numbers of big fish. Sure you can catch a big one before it spawns in the spring, but fall fish are preparing for winter by bulking up, so they’re hungry. They’re thinking about eating, not about spawning. That makes them more susceptible to an angler’s presentation. As with any fishing, the key thing is to fish where the fish are. I’ve caught walleyes in the fall in two foot of water on wind-blown shorelines, and in thirty feet of water on deep humps. Same thing’s true with largemouth bass, smallmouth bass, Photo courtesy www.northlandtackle.com northern pike, muskies, and crappies. Keep moving until you find them. Remember that in the fall, big baits catch big fish. It’s more efficient for a gamefish to eat one big meal instead of several smaller ones. Therefore, big baits are the way to go. If you’re after largemouth, try a Reed-Runner Spinnerbait with a big blade and tip it with a big trailer, something like the largest Impulse Paddle Shad. If a slower presentation is desired, go with a rubber legged Jungle Jig with, again, a bulky plastic. This set-up is effective where you would fish the spinnerbait or along a deep weedline. Make sure the jig color contrasts with the trailer color. If walleyes are the quarry, try a Fire-Ball Jig tipped with a redtail chub, one in the five inch range, maybe even a little bigger. When it comes to fall walleyes, a redtail is hard to beat. Don’t crowd them in the minnow bucket, and keep them aerated. We always take at least three or four dozen redtails on the water with us in the fall. Make sure you’re using fresh, strong line in the fall. Too many anglers use the same line they’ve used all spring and summer, and things usually work out o.k. But knowing that the odds for hooking a truly big fish are better in the fall should be incentive enough to spool some new line on just in case the line you’re using has a nick. Your line is the only thing keeping you stuck to the fish: Use good stuff. Eight pound test has become a favorite of mine for this style of fishing: It’s strong, but thin in diameter. There are lots of reasons to go fishing in the fall. The colors can be spectacular, the crowds are gone, and the big fish are eating. If you keep the above ideas in mind, you’ll be on your way to taking advantage of these fall fishing opportunities.
Hunting & Fishing News | 13
FISHING BROUGHT TO YOU BY
Now to be fair, no lure category simply shines every day all the time but there have been so many times when we pulled our hair out to catch fish we were marking with traditional jigs and rigs yet witnessed the most violent walleye strikes when we switched up to glide baits.
FOR THE GEAR YOU NEED
For water deeper than twenty feet, I am a big fan of using braided like eight-pound Fireline. Some anglers prefer to use mono and I like mono when I am pitching these lures in less than ten feet of water but in deeper water, I feel like I get better hookups using braid. Below the braid, I use a small barrel swivel to combat line twist and prefer a heavier 10–14-pound fluorocarbon leader that is two to three feet long. The rod is important. I prefer a medium-fast action rod that I can really pop the lure with when I snap the rod. The rod needs to be fast enough where it doesn’t load up when you snap the lure. As you snap the lure, each rod snap is basically a hook set as many fish will hit between snaps and pin the bait to the bottom.
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Guide to Using Glide Baits For Walleye Fishing By Jason Mitchell Jason Mitchell Outdoors Photo courtesy Jason Mitchell www.jasonmitchelloutdoors.com
www.jasonmitchelloutdoors.com
ver the past half dozen years, glide baits or jigging O minnows like the classic Jigging Rap, Flat Rap, Tikka Mino, Shiver Minnow and Hyper Glide have
become extremely popular with walleye anglers. While these heavy horizontal profile lures can be fished in shallow water, the weight of these lures gives them the added versatility of casting or jigging over deep water. Come mid to late summer and well into the fall, this category of lures can be fished with pinpoint precision over specific pieces of structure like deep boulders and rock or used to cast at specific fish if you are using Active Target or Live Sight. Gear: Tikka Mino Fluoro Leader Fireline Rod This presentation has gotten plenty of attention but many anglers still haven’t tried this presentation or just don’t have any confidence. Of course, the best way to get confidence is to catch some fish with this presentation. In order to use these lures effectively, we are going to highlight a few aspects we believe are important and explain some of the nuances to fishing these lures effectively. We will also explain a few of the mistakes we made personally. Now you can cast and cover some water but this lure category shines whenever you are working in tight spaces. Say you have fish bunched up in a current spot between two islands in the fall, maybe the fish are piled onto a specific side of a deep point or using an isolated rock pile in the basin… all top fall locations. When fish are bunched up, you can often turn them on with glide baits and glide baits just seem to trigger a reaction we don’t often see with other presentations.
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The cadence can vary somewhat from day to day and each lure will seem to have a sweet spot as far as the stoke height and velocity of the snap. By and large, many walleye anglers trying to learn this system don’t snap these lures hard enough to trigger the reaction bite. We are often snapping these baits hard enough where you can hear the rod snap forward. On average with many lures, we are snapping the baits a few feet or more. Most of these lures seem to catch more fish if there is some slack on the fall. Let the lure snap forward and fall on slack line. Often, we let them hit the bottom and slack line as they hit. Often, fish will hit at the bottom of the glide on slack line or pin the lure to the bottom. As you snap the rod forward, the fish are just on. This is why the rod is so important. Each snap could be a hook set so the snap forward must have enough power to set the hook. When I first started using glide baits, I caught a few fish but it took a while to figure out the cadence and snap. Once I started snapping the lure much harder and more aggressively, I began catching way more fish. As you position the boat and cast, it often seems to work better if you position the boat deep and cast shallower, working the lure from shallow to deep. Let the lure snap and glide down the structure when possible as it seems like the lures snag up much less. If you are fishing a hard bottom with rock and boulders, you can clip off the front hook that is on most glide baits and if you fish a lot of rock, you will love the solid Zink construction of the Tikka Mino as there are no plastic fins to break on this lure. Some anglers will also reinforce the plastic fins of their glide baits with super glue. The other component that makes this presentation so effective is using your electronics to catch specific fish or at least make casts towards specific groups of fish. What is amazing when using active sonar is just how far fish will follow a lure and the distance some fish will travel to hit the lure.
I have my Active Target transducer mounted to a Brew City mount so I can pan and look for fish. There are many times when I can watch the glide bait come through the fish. Probably the only learning curve to using this technology is learning to cast beyond the fish so that the lure can work in front of a fish on a cast. Another phenomenon that often happens if you spot lock over a location and cast around the boat is the number of fish that eventually accumulate below the boat. I find that I often catch fish right below the boat and many fish will follow until the lure gets below the boat so don’t be afraid to fish below the boat at the end of a cast. When a fish eats a glide bait, there won’t be a doubt in your mind. To be fair, this presentation resembles blade baits in that you will snag some fish or catch some fish outside the mouth especially when the fish are pinning the lure to the bottom. What is always surprising however is just how far some of these fish choke down these lures. Despite the wild snap up off the bottom and the erratic glide back down to the bottom, most fish will simply swallow the lure. The lure is just gone. Fall walleye often stack up on specific pieces of structure and walleye are notorious for using sharp breaking structure in the fall. Glide baits enable you to trigger fish while still positioning on spot on the spot locations and enable you to work up or down this structure with a presentation that brings out an aggression. Build confidence with this presentation and you are going to put more fall walleye in the boat.
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Smoked Salmon With Blueberry And Garlic Cheese Sauce Recipe By Lindsey Bartosh a12gaugegirl www.huntingandcooking.com INGREDIENTS Smoked Salmon 2-3 pound piece of wild caught salmon, skin on 2 tablespoons Worcestershire 2 tablespoons coconut aminos (could also use soy sauce) 2-3 tablespoons steak seasoning Blueberry Sauce 2 tablespoons butter 1 tablespoon olive oil 1 medium shallot, minced 1 pounds blueberries 1/2 cup red wine 1 teaspoon garlic powder 1/4 cup balsamic vinegar 2 tablespoons Worcestershire sauce 4-5 thyme sprigs Salt and pepper to taste 1 teaspoon cinnamon 1 teaspoon allspice
Photo courtesy Lindsey Bartosh www.huntingandcooking.com
Garlic Cheese Sauce 2 tablespoons butter 4 cloves garlic, sliced 4 ounces cream cheese 1/2 cup buttermilk 1 tablespoon dijon Salt and pepper to taste
INSTRUCTIONS Smoking the Salmon Preheat smoker to 450. Add wood of your choice. I used a cherry wood. I prefer fruit woods for fish. While smoker is preheating, prep fish slab by smothering on Worcestershire sauce and coconut aminos. Evenly sprinkle the steak seasoning over the entire slab of fish, creating a thin coating of the seasoning. Place skin side down on smoker and close lid. Smoke salmon for 25-30 minutes, depending on the thickness of the fish. A 2 and 1/2” thick piece takes about 30 minutes to reach an internal temperature of 140 degrees. For the final 10 minutes of salmon smoking, you will add the blueberry sauce on top of the salmon. Blueberry Sauce In a medium sized saucepan over medium heat, melt the butter and olive oil. Add the minced shallot and cook for three to four minutes, until shallots are soft. Add the pound of blueberries and cook for additional three to four minutes. Pour in red wine and reduce on a simmer for about five minutes. Add the teaspoon of garlic and balsamic vinegar. Continue reducing sauce for three or four minutes. Add the Worcestershire sauce, sprigs of thyme, cinnamon, allspice and salt and pepper. Continue cooking on a low/medium simmer for 7 to 10 minutes. The sauce should be thick and glossy. Pour the sauce over the salmon slab the last ten minutes of the fish’s smoking time. Garlic Cheese Sauce In a small sauce pan over medium heat, melt the butter. Add the garlic slices into the pan and heat for five minutes, taking care to not let the garlic burn. Add the cream cheese and melt. Add in half the buttermilk and tablespoon of dijon mustard. Whisk until smooth and creamy. To thin sauce to desired consistency, add remaining buttermilk. Sauce should be creamy and lump free. Season with salt and pepper. To serve, drizzle over smoked salmon and blueberry sauce.
Hunting & Fishing News | 15
Calibrating Line Counter Reels
By Mark Romanack Fishing 411 www.fishing411.net t Fishing 411 we get a lot of fishing questions. One of A the most common questions we encounter involves line counter reels. Do I really need to calibrate my line counter reels and if so how is the best way to accomplish this goal? The process of calibrating line counter reels so that every reel an angler has on his or her boat contains exactly the same type, diameter and amount of fishing line isn’t a new concept, but it has become a fact of fishing perceptive anglers are paying much more attention to. Most anglers mistakenly believe that the line counter reels they own are inherently accurate at metering lead lengths. That assumption would only be true if the angler had loaded his reel or reels with the line type, diameter and amount of line that was used by the manufacturer to calibrate these reels. Most manufacturers use 20 pound test monofilament line to calibrate their line counter reels. This line type and diameter is used because it represents a line commonly used for salmon trolling. The moment an angler loads a line of a different diameter onto his or her line counter reel, that factory calibration is lost. Most anglers also mistakenly believe if they simply load their reels to capacity, the line counters will be consistent and accurate. Wrong again, because most anglers have no clue exactly how much line is being loaded to their reels, they in turn end up with reels that are way out of calibration.
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To prove this fact to yourself, take all of your line counter reels into the back yard and lay them down on the grass next to one another. Measure off a known distance using a tape measure, say 100 feet and put a stake in the ground to mark that distance. Now return to the rods/reels and zero out all of the line counters. Open the bail on each reel and pull off exactly 100 feet of line from each reel. In theory, the line counters of each reel will read 100 feet, but in reality each reel is certain Photo courtesy www.fishing411.net to produce a different reading. The reason for this discrepancy is because each reel is loaded with a different amount of line. The process of calibrating a line counter reel is in fact the process of putting just the right amount of line on each reel so that when an actual 100 feet of line is played off the reel, the line counter will also indicate 100 on the digital read out. Accomplishing this fundamental but critically important goal is easy, but calibrating reels does takes a few minutes and some trial and error to complete the job. The reason it is critical to have the same amount of line on every reel is because line counters function by allowing a certain amount of line off the reel for every rotation of the reel spool. When the reel spool is over full, more line is played off the reel per rotation. When the reel spool is under full, less line is played off the reel per rotation. THE PROPER WAY TO CALIBRATE REELS Any brand and model of line counter reel can be calibrated with any line type and diameter using a simple process that involves putting the exact amount of line on each reel. The process starts by loading the desired line onto the reel until the reel spool appears to be loaded to capacity. Many manufacturers of line counter reels have a mark on the reel spool to indicate when the reel spool is filled to capacity. Once the reel is filled to capacity, do not cut the line from the bulk spool. Instead measure off a distance of 100 feet and put two stakes in the ground to indicate the zero mark and the 100 foot mark. On the zero mark stake use a rubber band to attach a planer board line release to simply hold the line on the stake. Take the line from the rod tip and place it into the line release on the zero stake. Now reel up the slack line until the rod tip touches the stake and zero out the line counter on the reel. Open the reel bail and walk away to the 100 foot stake. When you have walked away exactly 100 feet consult the clicker on the line counter reel. If the clicker is a number less than 100 feet, the reel has too much line loaded and line must be taken off the reel and wrapped back onto the spool. If the number on the line counter is greater than 100, more line must be added to the reel spool. The best way to add or subtract line from the reel when fine tuning the calibration is in increments of about 20 to 40 feet at a time. It might take two or three tries of adding or removing line from the fishing reel before the line counter on the reel reads 100 feet when exactly 100 feet of line has been played out.
The Precision Trolling Data web page (www.precisiontrollingdata.com) features a detailed video on exactly how to calibrate line counter reels. Consulting this video will clarify any questions an angler might have about the calibration process. Also, it’s interesting to note that Precision Trolling uses Daiwa SG27LC Sealine reels for their testing purposes. When exactly 1,400 feet of Berkley 10 pound test XT line is spooled onto these reels they are perfectly calibrated. WHY IS REEL CALIBRATION SO IMPORTANT? The question still remains, why is calibrating line counter reels so important? The answer is simple. When reels are calibrated it’s possible to accurately and quickly duplicate productive lead lengths with other rods/reels. When all of these reels are calibrated with the same line type, diameter and amount of line anglers can target fish at specific depths with amazing accuracy and success. The lure and diving device depth data that is published by Precision Trolling Data in their popular phone apps is collected using line counter reels that are carefully calibrated for the line type and diameter listed on the phone apps. When avid anglers consult this data and in turn apply the information using line counter reels that are also calibrated, it’s possible to target fish spotted on a sonar screen with uncanny accuracy. The other reason it’s a good idea to calibrate reels is to avoid inadvertently playing out too much line and snagging and breaking off valuable lures on the bottom. WHAT IF LINE IS LOST FROM A REEL? Anglers are also curious what happens if they snag and some line is lost from a reel? Does that reel have to be re-calibrated? The answer depends on how much line is lost. It takes about 20 feet of lost line to change the reel calibration about one foot on the counter. So if modest amounts of line are lost, it is not necessary to re-calibrate the reel. DOES REEL SIZE MATTER? Another question often asked regarding line counter reels is does size matter? The answer is that any size or brand of line counter reel can be calibrated. The problem is that smaller sized reels such as the 15 class reels produced by some manufacturers have such a limited line capacity that they are inherently less accurate and practical to use than larger reels with greater line capacity. TOP DRESSING SAVES MONEY The first time a reel is loaded with line it’s necessary to fill the entire reel spool. When it comes time to replace that line, don’t remove all the old line from the reel. Keeping about 150 to 200 yards of old line on the reel to function as backing and top dressing each reel with about 150 to 200 yards of premium fresh line is an excellent way of saving money and still getting the maximum value from each line counter reel. REEL QUALITY The major manufacturers of trolling reels produce several models of line counter reels sold at various price points. The less expensive reels tend to use more plastic parts in the manufacturing process. More expensive reels are more ruggedly built with metal and carbon parts designed to provide years of trouble free service. The ole adage that “you get what you pay for” is very true with line counter reels. Less expensive models just don’t hold up when exposed to serious trolling chores, costing anglers more money in the long run. SUMMING IT UP A lot of anglers are resistant to calibrating their line counter reels, feeling that close is good enough when trolling. It’s true that anglers can catch fish when using reels that are not calibrated. It’s also true that those anglers who take the time to calibrate their reels are going to be catching more fish. It takes about five minutes per reel to calibrate. You make the call.
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FACING SETBACKS HOW TO STAY MOTIVATED WHEN IT ALL GOES WRONG By Eric Voris Late To The Game Outdoors www.latetothegameoutdoors.com
’m pretty sure everyone is facing less than ideal Ionly circumstances right now. There’s a global pandemic (that’s picking up speed where I live), the country seems as if
it’s never been more divided, oh…and just for fun…half of my state is on fire (including one of my favorite deer spots). But, one of the things I love about hunting (and the reason I recommend it to every dude who isn’t a militant vegan) is that it helps prepare us for this kind of stuff. I mean, there isn’t a specific lesson learned in the field that prepares you for Coronavirus or looting in the streets, but hunting builds grit like few other things I’ve found. And grit is what we need in a big way right now. But, in the pursuit of that grit, there are often temptations to quit (that wasn’t supposed to rhyme…but here we are). Hunting is a year-round pursuit for me, as I’m sure it is for most of you. Even when there isn’t an open season, I’m preparing, I’m scouting, I’m staying fit…on any given day of the year, there’s something I’m doing to prepare for the next season. But, in the midst of those efforts, there are setbacks. There are problems that pop up and make you think, “Why am I even doing this? It’s too hard. I won’t succeed. Why not call it quits?” I think we’ve all found ourselves in that place in the middle of a hunt, maybe in a tough week of regular life, and I bet we’ve all had that thought at some point in the last few months. So…if most of us will find ourselves at a quitting point somewhere along the line, how can we keep ourselves motivated to keep going…even when it doesn’t feel like it’s going to make a difference?
Sometimes that temptation to call it quits gets really hard to ignore! Photo courtesy Eric Voris www.latetothegameoutdoors.com
And in case I’m starting to sound preachy, this is more for me than anything. As I look at this page, I’m realizing this is my first blog post in a month (I try to post weekly). I’ve been trying to climb out of my own hole of demotivation, and actively writing this right now is part of me faking it ‘til I make it…trust me, I’d rather be sitting here mindlessly surfing the web. But, my feelings lie all the time, so I’m forcing myself to do what I know is the right thing. And the beautiful thing about this method is that the feelings almost always follow. Get a couple sets into that workout you were dreading, and suddenly you’re motivated and glad to be there. Start writing that post you’ve been putting off for weeks, suddenly the keys are tapping and you’re excited to be writing again. I can’t think of an example where I made myself do the right thing and my feelings didn’t eventually follow. Reflect on Your Past Successes
Okay, this piece of advice sounds kind of heartless, but it’s something I remind myself of almost daily. Our culture has 100% bought-in to the notion of following your heart. We make decisions based on what feels right. And if you only do what you feel like doing, you’re not going to accomplish very much when your feelings betray you. When it feels like it’s not worth it, when it feels like you’ll never succeed so why try, when it feels like you’d rather eat a tub of ice cream on the couch than work out…there are hundreds of examples in any given day where the wisdom of “following your heart” completely fails.
I have to be careful with how I explain this, because I’m in no way advocating staying stuck in the past. I’m not encouraging you to go full Uncle Rico and dream of what could have been if the coach had put you in 4th quarter of the championship game. I’m simply saying that when it starts to seem hopeless, when it seems like nothing is working out and therefore nothing will work out, remember that it has worked out before. If you’ve ever encountered a hunting slump (like I’m right in the middle of right now), you can start to believe that you’ll never connect on an animal again. I find it incredibly helpful to go back and reflect on the hunts where I did find success. It helps me shift my inner monologue from “this will never happen” to “You have done this before and you can do it again.” (That’s also why I’m incredibly grateful I go through all the extra effort to film my hunts… going back and watching films like these gets me fired up to get back out there and recreate those moments.)
My advice in that situation: do what you know you should do, whether you feel like it or not. Feelings lie…all the time! So, when you’re out in the field on day 4 and it feels like you’re never going to connect on a buck, stay out there, hike to the next ridge, and keep going because you know that it can all turn around at any moment. When you’d rather sleep in because work is kind of a nightmare and it feels like it would be so much better to just stay in bed, make yourself get up and hit the gym because you know it’s what you need to do for you own physical and mental health.
Obviously, this strategy works in just about every area of life. Relationship struggling? Remember the good times… the way you guys started…and realize that with some time, work, and communication, you can get back to that place again. Work or career falling flat? Don’t let your mind spiral into how it’s all your fault and you’ll never be successful. Start writing down all the times (even if they were isolated projects) where you really felt successful and realize that you’ve done well before and you can do well again. (continued on page 36)
Fake It ‘Til You Make It
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22 | Hunting & Fishing News
AKU Hunting Footwear Now Available In North America AKU, an Italian footwear brand known for producing some of the world’s most comfortable, hand-crafted hiking boots for more than 50 years, is now launching its line of hunting footwear in North America (previously only available in Europe). For years, hunters have told us that they are purchasing AKU’s hiking footwear because they are so comfortable, dry and warm. The new hunting boots are specifically designed for different types of hunting, made with high-quality leathers, Vibram sole comfort and security and GORE-TEX protection, resulting in a boot that is comfortable, durable and that reduces foot fatigue for the long haul. Below is a description of the new AKU hunting styles that are now available in North America. JAGER EVO GTX - An extremely rugged boot series that is specifically designed for elk and mule deer hunting. The Jager Evo GTX High and Low feature a thick, full-grain leather upper that is made with one piece of leather to reduce stitching. The tongue has asymmetric construction to reduce bulk and enhance the waterproofness. The lace covers offer added safety in the bush. Hand made by AKU’s team of expert craftsmen and women in its Montebelluna, Italy, headquarters. MSRP: $369-439. RISERVA HIGH GTX Featuring AKU’s patented Elica Stride Technology and the soft rear cuff collar, the Riserva collection is a backcountry hunting boot that is easy to walk long distances when elk and deer hunting as well as grouse hunting in different terrain conditions. Available in either nubuck or full grain leather; the rubber toe rand offers added protection, and the sole has a wide footprint with deep lugs for superior grip. Hand made in Montebelluna, Italy. MSRP: $299-389.
RISERVA GTX - Designed for demanding hunting in wet conditions. With premium quality Italian leather, an iconic Vibram® outsole for traction and a Gore-Tex® membrane to keep your feet dry in any condition. Hand made in Montebelluna, Italy. MSRP: $299.95-$329.95. PILGRIM HL COMBAT GTX - The perfect boot for hunters who are looking for a lightweight but supportive, agile boot, while bowhunting during the early season. The Pilgrim DS has been a UK Army Combat boot for years in Europe, and the boot’s features cross over to hunting nicely. The upper is made with AKU’s Air8000 breathable nylon and full grain leather. Gore-tex liner and Vibram sole add to the performance features. The sole also has a high toe spring for comfortable walking. MSRP: $229-249.
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Hunting & Fishing News | 23
Photo credits: Ryan McSparran Peak Outfitter Marketing www.PeakOutfitter.com
5 RIFLE SEASON TIPS FOR
HUNTING POST-RUT ELK
By Zach Lazzari and Ryan McSparran Caribou Gear Outdoor Equipment Company www.caribougear.com
he rut is a fantastic event. Big bulls let down their guard, T chase cows and become more vocal and visually available to hunters than at any point in the year. Because of this
vulnerability, most rut hunts are limited to primitive weapons like archery and muzzleloader. After the rut, rifle hunters must adapt their tactics in order find those big bulls. As the rut winds down, things change quickly. It’s necessary for hunters to develop a strategic game plan. Post-rut bull elk aren’t vocal and they won’t be moving as much as they were in September. This can make them very difficult to find. On the other side of that coin, post-rut bulls can be more predictable and easier to stalk without a herd around them. As we prepare for rifle seasons and the pros and cons of hunting elk after the rut, here are a few tips to remember: 1. GET TO KNOW ELK BEHAVIOR AFTER THE RUT The rut is a taxing event and it drains the energy from bulls. They lose weight and strength and often incur severe wounds while sparring for breeding rights. This leaves them at a caloric loss and drives behavior towards feeding. While some bulls will jet straight back up to the safety of steep and nasty country, others will hang out low and capitalize on high energy food sources like alfalfa fields and lush river bottoms. Look for public land access in areas close to quality food sources. They will need this to quickly regain strength and energy. The dominant bulls expend the most energy during the rut. They are especially in need of a post-rut refuge with access to food and water. The smaller bulls use less energy and are more apt to stay on the move while being somewhat more visible. This can make the solitary, mature bulls more difficult to locate. 2. TRY A LOCATOR CALL The rut is over and your odds of calling in a bull are slim. That doesn’t mean they won’t respond to a random call. When the going is tough, send out a bugle and you might get a response that reveals a general location. Using this technique at night while driving back roads can help to narrow down a more focused hunt area.
24 | Hunting & Fishing News
Get to a high point where you can hear from multiple directions and where you’re away from the noise of creeks or vehicles. Send out a location bugle and then listen carefully for a response. If you’re hunting with friends, spread out a little bit. Multiple sets of ears will make it easier to pinpoint the location of a response. If you don’t get a response, don’t be tempted to overdo it. Move to the next ridge and try again. 3. HEAD FOR THE HIGH COUNTRY Many mature bulls will hold out in the high country until the weather forces them to lower elevations. If the snow is accumulating up high, you have a chance at catching bulls as they move to find available food. If the snow isn’t deep enough, they will hold out in high basins. Hunters should plan on hiking to reach these difficult areas. While bulls can be found at a variety of elevation zones after the rut, the high elevation areas with difficult access provide sanctuary and are worth exploring. If backpacking into these zones is not feasible, focus your day hunting energy on ridge tops and steep slopes with dark timber. The timber provides cover and the late season grasses are fresher in these sheltered areas. Even after snow begins to accumulate, bulls can still be found high up on windblown ridges or south-facing slopes where grass is still accessible. 4. USE YOUR GLASS Hunting post-rut bulls can require spending a lot of time behind the glass. Put your binoculars on a tripod for more comfortable and steady glassing. After the rut, bull elk like to hang in places where they don’t have to travel far between food, water and security. Unless pressured, don’t expect them to be out and about in wide-open areas. Focus your glassing on timber edges, the edges of burns and skinny avalanche chutes. Be persistent. They may only feed out into the opening for a few minutes before they disappear back into the timber. If you spot a bull, even for a moment, the game is on. Unless pressured, these solitary elk aren’t likely to travel far. That spot where the bull fed out into the open is probably where you should be for the next morning or evening hunt. 5. KNOW YOUR AREA Scouting ahead of the season and getting to know the area is a major advantage. Ideally, you’d begin scouting in the spring and early summer. Watching the elk migrate from winter range back to summer range is a big help. Getting to know these routes up the mountain allows you to hunt these same travel corridors after the rut. However, it’s not realistic for many of us to watch the elk year-round. At the very least, spend time at home scouting with tools like OnX Hunt and Google Earth. Mark roads, access points and likely areas where post-rut bulls might find sanctuary. Identify likely glassing points where you can watch those timber edges or avalanche chutes. The more familiar you can become with the landscape, food sources, escape routes and travel patterns, the better informed decisions you’ll be able to make during the hunting season. NEW RIFLE SEASON GEAR Before you get out there this rifle season, take a look at our new Caribou Gear Bullet Wallets. Made with tough ballistic Cordura fabric, we designed these bullet wallets with a slim, streamlined folding design that still protects soft and polymer-tipped rounds. Check out the video to learn more: https://youtu.be/JPB54SLzCmM
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If with a friend or group, the area can be broken up into “sectors of glassing” and everyone can get a slice of the pie. Focusing on each section at a time for the obvious is what I do first. Once I’ve looked for the obvious signs of life through the whole area, or my sector, then I go back through them all again; this time, picking it apart for the finer details. Search in the shadows and dark timber for the commonly unseen like bedded animals, an ear or a tine. Even after combing the landscape thoroughly, I will go back and do it all over again. I have surprised myself more times than not (especially during bear hunts) by looking at an area what feels like 100 times to then all of a sudden see an animal in a spot I almost gave up on.
3. Using your GPS to pattern game All photo credits: Anthony Wright
5 TIPS FOR BETTER GLASSING By Anthony Wright
Originally published at
www.goHUNT.com
ruising through forums, meeting new people and, in C general, talking about hunting, I have heard or been asked the question: How can I find game easier through my
glass? Now, I will never claim to be an expert by any means, but being from the eastern half of the states originally, I can relate when people ask the question. Every year, many people from the flatter portions of the country make plans to go west for a hunt whether it’s every year or once-in-a-lifetime, which means that they want to gain as much of an edge as possible and rightfully so. There’s also those individuals in the western half of the states who may just be starting to hunt or haven’t had luck finding game who may benefit from a little help. Therefore, I’m going to share the techniques I personally have adopted since moving west because, so far, they have proven to do me well.
1. Start with your binos
Starting with your binoculars gives you the opportunity to quickly assess the playing field. The first technique I learned from a friend who was taking a seat and using a trekking pole as a point of contact with the ground to stabilize my binos by resting them upon the handle of the pole.
Another technique I’ve used is resting my binos on top of my spotting scope, moving both laterally at the same time. Once you find something of interest in your binos, then you can move to the spotter, which should be close to where you were glassing with your binos. Be sure that when you transition from binos to spotter that your spotter is on a lower magnification in order to give you a better field of view and enable you to spot your target sooner.
2. Grid/sweep
Looking at a large hillside, canyon or draw can be alot to take in all at once. Therefore, breaking the land into sections or a grid will help in breaking it down.
26 | Hunting & Fishing News
I like this technique if I am going to be spending days in an area. If I’m successful in finding the species I’m after, I will use my GPS to track and log the animals throughout the days. You can also use your preferred phone app that allows you to use icons. Marking when and where the bulls/bucks/rams/does/cows/ewes are at in the morning, mid-day and evening will start to paint a picture of what their current pattern is. This aids in finding game faster in your binos or spotter — i.e when you have logged your target buck every morning for two mornings near a certain rock out cropping. This means you can start your glassing in the morning where you typically see the buck instead of trying to find him again every day. Also, use your GPS to view topography lines to notice where you are seeing game the most in relation to terrain features. This helps you look for these certain features when choosing locations to hunt in the future due to previous success finding animals with particular trends using terrain features like benches, bluffs, depressions and directional draws.
4. Take sufficient breaks
Part of being an aviator in the military is understanding your body to a certain degree. How does that translate to glassing? Well, in the aspect of glassing, it pertains greatly to eye fatigue. Ever noticed that when you have one eye closed for an extended period the vision in your open eye soon becomes less acute or blurry? That is your eye becoming fatigued due to prolonged use trying to carry the optical load that would typically be shared with both eyes open. Some remedies for this occurrence is learning how to use the spotting scope with both eyes open or alternating from eye to eye. This keeps you searching while still giving your eyes the respective amount of time to recover, which, in turn, lessens the chances of issues like headaches or dry eyes. You can also go full pirate and buy a cheap eye patch to keep your less dominant eye open yet not have it impede your vision while glassing. Or the easiest way to save your eyeballs for the long haul is to simply lean back and take a break for a couple minutes.
5. Patience
This was by far the hardest trait for myself to learn. I used to get so excited to find something right off the bat. When I didn’t see anything after a few minutes I would just pack up and leave that spot to head to another glassing location. I can’t even imagine how many animals I passed over or never saw due to being impatient. Take your time to really pick apart the land. Hunting for me removes stress so why add stress by rushing to find game? I have since learned from close friends to just calm down, take it all in and, after a sufficient amount of time has passed, then move on. Patience pays off when glassing, even in areas you don’t think will produce anything. I’m excited to share these tips with you. I knew nothing when I made the voyage west to Montana and was eager to learn. To this day, I continue to learn, ask and read new ways to be more efficient while in the field... Stay safe and hunt hard.
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5 Key Techniques For Bowhunting October Elk By Dave Barnett Originally published at
www.goHUNT.com
Photos courtesy www.goHUNT.com
or most, October signals a time for elk hunters to hang F up their bows and grunt tubes, call it quits, and silently wait for rifle season. Fortunately, some states out west offer
archery seasons extending into October that can provide some excellent opportunities. While this can be a great time to be in the woods, hunters will need to change their tactics, especially when targeting mature bulls. Less competition will be found during this month with most of the hunters draining their vacation time on the prime rut periods during September so you’ll likely have the woods to yourself. While the best hunting is undoubtedly found in September, the month of October is not one to pass up. Mature bulls will generally transition into a more predictable feeding and bedding pattern in an attempt to recoup from the last month’s activities. Yet, at any time, a cow could come into a late estrus, which can turn a quiet basin into a rutting playground of biblical proportions seemingly overnight.
DOES ELK BEHAVIOR CHANGE DRASTICALLY DURING OCTOBER? In short, yes. The changing of elk behavior during the post rut stages of October can vary greatly depending on the area you may be hunting. For instance, areas on or around large private sections that may hold hundreds of elk will likely see a smaller and less noticeable shift in behavior than the high elevation basin that may hold less than 20 elk. In general, look for most of the mature bulls to leave the herds and head for more difficult terrain with heavy cover and nearby food and water. This does not mean these bulls are completely finished with any rutting activity but they will likely not hold a harem for the remainder of the year. If a late cow comes into estrus in the area the bulls may simply slip in, steal the cow, breed her and then leave. Most herds will now be dominated by young satellite bulls chalk full of frustration from futile attempts to breed all year and can sometimes be very vulnerable to some pleading cow sounds. The main thing to remember during this period is that most of the bulls are just plain tired. Nearly a month of constant running, fighting, and hunting pressure can severely drain a bull of much needed energy for the oncoming winter. While they may answer a bugle they will likely be less than enthused about charging in and intimidating the potential imposter than they were two weeks ago. Below are five strategies that can turn a September full of missed opportunities into an October of life long memories and a punched tag. Keep in mind that these strategies may need to be adapted to the areas you hunt and the herd dynamics of the resident elk.
FIVE OCTOBER ELK STRATEGIES TO HELP PUNCH YOUR TAG 1. Be the stealthy predator With most of the bulls in the month of October winding down on their aggressive antics some hunters will opt to forgo the typical calling techniques and simply still hunt in areas of elk activity. For this, I like to look back on sign
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I had found during my September outings. Elk will generally be found very near to the rutting grounds; they may simply move to a more remote drainage adjacent to the primary hunting grounds. When doing this, I like to get the wind in my face and simply creep through areas that held heavy elk activity during the prime weeks of the rut. Be careful not to move too fast and keep a diligent lookout as elk can be very quiet when they want to. The main areas of interest for me to focus on will include feeding grounds, transition areas, and bedding areas. Look for major feeding areas such as clearcuts, meadows, or burns and move through these areas at first and last light. While it may be difficult to make a move on elk while they are feeding due to terrain or ground cover, it can be a great time to simply locate elk and make a plan on them from that point. Usually, the best spot to ambush an elk is in transition areas as they move from feeding to bedding areas or vice versa. Having intimate knowledge on your hunting area as well as how the elk use the terrain can be a huge help here. Look for areas such as saddles or ridge tops where an ambush can be set. These can be especially lethal if elk can be spotted feeding in the morning and hunters can then position themselves for an ambush prior to the elk heading to bed. These tactics can also be used to catch elk leaving bedding areas and heading to feed for the evening. One of the more riskier, yet still productive tactics of still hunting, would be to move at a snail’s pace through known bedding grounds. Obviously, the elk will be more alert in these areas but many elk have been shot from or near their beds. 2. Watch the weather Elk are pretty notorious for being big wimps when it comes to early snowfall. Generally speaking, they will be one of the first species to drop elevation as most of their feed options will begin to lose nutritional values with the coming of the first freezing temps. By simply monitoring the weather and planning accordingly a trip can go from wandering through areas that used to hold elk to wandering through areas that now hold elk. If you’ve experienced a recent change in weather and an area once heavy with elk sign is now void of life it’s a great time to pull out the maps. While elk can cover a greater distance than humans they will still move across the terrain much like us. If you were an elk and had to head to lower food sources, whether it be agricultural areas or natural clearings, how would you get there? Generally, the obvious answer would be dropping down through a drainage or following a ridgeline. Study your hunting area and look for any easy route leading to lower elevations and you will begin to see areas to focus your efforts on. 3. Glassing, glassing, glassing If terrain and cover allows it, glassing can be one of the most effective tactics in finding October elk. For this, I like to look for obvious high points that will allow me to see several areas of interest, mainly including feed and transition areas. Look for large clearcuts and meadows near heavy timber; if you have saddles between these two areas it can be gold. (continued on page 38)
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Hunting & Fishing News | 29
Author Tom Cooper and his grandpa. Photo courtesy Tom Cooper.
Grandpa’s Hunting World By Tom Cooper
recently discovered (by listening to myself I guess) I was Iand routinely repeating a somewhat negative view of hunting fishing stories or maybe it relates to the telling of stories.
Anyway, the most common theme I seem to repeat is: “You know, not all hunting stories are true.” I am not sure why I’m placing more significance on this topic just now, but I am. However, I’m sure I know who is responsible, my Grandfather (Grandpa). There is no question, I heard many similar phrases from my childhood through early adult years. As I considered all this, I concluded somehow, I should write about it. With even more deep, insightful thought, the topic actually became more about Grandpa’s views on hunting and fishing in his world. So, this story is about my “hunting/fishing” Grandpa, and any story about him without addressing the world he lived in, would be unfair. Let’s start with a little background. World War I Grandpa was born in 1898 and grew up in the small town of Asotin in southeastern Washington. Apparently he was a pretty fair country baseball player, however, after a broken ankle his baseball future was over. Then on April 15, 1917, the US Congress declared war (World War I) on Germany. Grandpa enlisted in the Marine Corps the next day. After basic training, his unit “shipped out” to Verdun, France. While in the trenches, he was exposed to mustard gas, and hospitalized for 2-3 weeks. Following his recovery, the unit moved north and east of Paris to defend the city from capture. He was promoted to corporal and designated as his machine gun crew leader. His crew was eventually assigned to the action at Bellue Woods, a battle area known for intense combat and horrific number of casualties. Instead of returning home after the November 11, 1918 armistice, Grandpa was assigned near Koblenz, Germany, to guard captured German soldiers, and finally shipped home in mid-1919. Although he talked about the war, he rarely commented on his combat activity. More often, he directed his comments to Kaiser Wilhelm, the German leader. If he passed a little gas, it was always “there’s a kiss for the Kaiser.” I can assure you the Kaiser was kissed a lot. The Great Depression and WWII After WWI, he worked as a butcher in a local meat packing plant, and stayed with it for almost three decades. The Great Depression lasted throughout the 1930’s, and the sacrifices necessary to survive were a part of life for most Americans. Hunting and fishing provided another source of meat for Grandpa’s family; it was a common theme for many across the country. In Grandpa’s case, his needs didn’t always match the designated season dates.
30| Hunting & Fishing News
I don’t recall much discussion of hunting and fishing regulations during his stories. Most probably to him, regulations were merely suggestions. Food on the table was not a suggestion. Along came WWII, and more sacrifice by Americans to support military members assigned to Europe and the Pacific. By that time, Dad had enlisted in the Army, and eventually participated in the invasion of Italy. Grandpa knew about war and recognized the risks for his son. I believe these events solidified his opinions regarding the relative importance of compliance with state fish and game regulations and laws. After WWII and Dad’s safe return from Europe, our grandparents bought a small farm in a community on the northern fringe of the Blue Mountains. Over the years they raised chickens for meat and eggs, milked cows for fresh milk, cream, and butter, raised a few beef calves for meat, occasionally a few pigs for pork, and there were always 2-3 horses around, mostly for hunting and fishing. They tried it all, but for Grandpa, deer and elk (ok, and a few Steelhead) were still really important. Telling Stories “Boys, it’s ok to lie about hunting and fishing.” As I recall, this might be the first really significant topic Grandpa discussed with me. (Note: Actually, it is more accurate to say discussed with my two brothers and me. However, I’m writing this, so readers beware; everything you read may not be true (see, I did it again)). I was five or six when I first recollect hearing Grandpa’s favorite phrase. Mostly I thought it was “funny”, because I had learned about “lying” and knew you shouldn’t cross that line. Work or Play, the Stories Continued From the mid-1950’s through the early-1960’s, my brothers and I lived in Missoula, Montana, with our parents but spent summers working, not very hard, on the farm. Our normal work projects included: fixing fences, picking rocks, stacking hay, splitting firewood, or weeding the garden. For three “overworked” boys, deviation from work meant horseback riding, swimming, or trips to the Blue Mountains to fish, look for deer and elk, or pick a few huckleberries. Of course all of our activities, work and play, provided Grandpa many opportunities to tell and retell his hunting and fishing stories. However, we noticed some stories weren’t the same as the last time we had heard them. The changes seemed “minor” to us, you know like maybe the number of hunters or even the number of animals harvested was different. Sometimes, the hunt moved from morning to late afternoon, or vice versa. There was little discussion about season start and stop dates, but none of that was important to a seven-year-old anyway. One deviation from farm work involved fishing a small stream in the Blue Mountains known by a couple names: Mennache or Wennache Creek, apparently due to a difference in pronunciation between local Native Americans and English-speaking folks. Typically we used a couple of Grandpa’s horses for this excursion. Two of us rode and two walked. Grandpa rode both ways and told a few stories along the way, yes both ways. The trip included overnight camping, but no tent, no sleeping bags, just a good blanket. There was always his favorite cast iron skillet for the mess of fish we would catch. Sometimes we cleaned them, but not always, probably because the Brookies we caught were only 4-5 inches long. Besides, according to Grandpa, we were hungry, there were lots of fish, so catch and eat whatever you want. Dinner consisted of the old skillet filled with fish, onions, and potatoes. Did I mention white pepper? In camp, he peppered all food. For us, the problem was around a campfire at night, you couldn’t see the largest globs of pepper. The rest of the evening, we drank plenty of water. Of course, we fell asleep listening to Grandpa’s hunting-fishing stories. Frequently, the stories ended with “Remember boys, it’s ok to lie about hunting and fishing.”
Breakfast was always reheated, and freshly peppered, fish, onions, and potatoes. No Waste, Eat it All I don’t want readers to think Grandpa wasted harvested fish or game. Just the opposite, if he or a partner harvested an animal, it was all used. His respect for elk in the Blue Mountains stemmed from his recollection that he “helped” during the first elk transplant from Yellowstone Park to Washington in the early 1900’s. The train carrying the elk unloaded at Pomeroy, Washington, about 30 miles from Asotin. Then, the elk were “herded” into the mountains by riders on horseback. He would have been 15 years-old at the time. After watching Dad and Grandpa hang, field dress, then butcher a deer or elk, my brothers and I joked about pitying the poor coyotes because there was nothing left. We watched and helped as the meat was scraped from the bones, and placed in clean cloth bags, along with the heart, liver, tongue, brains, and kidneys. And, they brought hides home as well, because a hide could be traded for work (you must be kidding, work??) gloves. Oh, the poor coyotes. In the late-60’s, we had a hunting camp in the southern Bitterroot Mountains. One morning, several hunters left camp on horses before daylight, but I decided to hunt deer with Grandpa on a ridge above camp. I harvested a small 4-point buck. After field-dressing the deer, I drug him downhill to an old logging road. As I started dragging along the road, Grandpa appeared around the next bend; he had heard my shot. He pondered things for a moment, then asked “Tom, where’s the heart and liver?” My response was “half a mile up the ridge with the guts.” He stepped to an old log, sat down, and said “I’ll just wait here till you bring’em down.” So, that’s exactly what I did. I assume he practiced his stories while waiting. By the 1970’s, Grandpa had converted the chicken coop into a smoke house and used a corner of his cellar for boning,
grinding, and mixing meat, and stuffing sausage casings. He lived with eye problems most of his senior years, and by this time one eye was glass and the other had limited capability. So, how did he hunt? He offered jerky and salami, or game processing to neighbors when they drove him to a hunting area. If they saw any game, these acquaintances could help line up his rifle, then he could see through the scope with his “good” eye, and shoot. Again, regulated seasons and his hunts didn’t always match, but his salami recipe was excellent, year-round. Also, I’m told, but deny any personal knowledge, he provided hunting partners a homemade adult beverage that would knock your socks off. His “moonshine” operation filled another corner of the cellar. In December 1985, at the end of the muzzleloader deer season, he passed away. Grandpa’s World These days, I hunt and fish a lot and admit to following fish and game regulations. (Note: My statement probably provides an opportunity for some of you. You could say something like: “Boys, everything someone says about complying with hunting and fishing regulations isn’t true.” However in this case, that statement would reflect more on me, and the story is supposed to be about Grandpa.) I believe I’m receptive to today’s fish and game regulations because I generally understand most, but not all, of the logic behind them. Further, following fish and game regulations is about choices, and choosing to follow them is simply not difficult in the 21st century. And I think that’s because we didn’t live through two World Wars, and experience a never-ending Great Depression. Grandpa’s world was a function of those major events and he made his choices based on criteria much different from the criteria we use in the 2020’s. However, while I’m very confident his stories reflect a way of life based on the times he lived, we also know not all stories about one’s life are true (I still got it, and Grandpa gave it to me).
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Deer Rut Timeline: The 7 Stages and How to Hunt Them (continued from page 4) Stage 3: Chasing Phase, Still Pre-Rut Sometimes difficult to differentiate, this pre-breeding period occurs immediately after the seeking phase and just prior to actual breeding. In layman’s terms, it’s when does are almost in estrus and bucks know it. During the chasing phase, bucks feverishly scour the woods, pursue and, quite literally, chase does around checking them for breeding readiness. Their purpose is to find and service a hot doe. Being in the woods at this time is magical. During the seeking and chasing phase and where healthy buck-to-doe ratios exist, rattling, grunting, and using doe bleat calls can be extremely effective in attracting curious, testosterone-driven bucks into close range. One of your best strategies involves locating and setting up over a primary scrape. These primary scrapes are often double or even triple the size of boundary scrapes and are visited regularly – usually daily – by both bucks and does in the area.
Focus your efforts on a primary scrape from about Oct. 25 on, and your chances of encountering deer go way up. In very general terms, the chasing phase typically occurs throughout the midwestern, central and eastern U.S, and across Canada through the second week in November. I usually anticipate the chasing phase to occur between Nov. 11 and 14. Bucks and does use scrapes as a primary communication tool and continue servicing them with increased frequency during this time. At this point, a select number of primary scrapes will be visited most frequently. Locate one of these primary scrapes and you’ll greatly increase your odds of an encounter. Stage 4: The Estrus, Peak Deer Rut The breeding phase, or estrus period, is viewed as the peak of the rut. This is when buck movement breaks wide open. It’s when does go into estrus and are receptive to the breeding advances of eager bucks. Throughout western Canada, this peak whitetail estrus intensifies between Nov. 11 and 16. I know, for instance, that in many of the areas I hunt, this is invariably between Nov. 12 and 14. Stage 5: Lockdown The biggest challenge for hunters during the breeding phase is that when a buck locates a hot doe, he will usually stay close until that doe is bred. In fact, mature bucks especially will quite literally lock them down. In other words, they’ll shadow the hot doe and hold them in a secluded location. As breeding commences, with each day the lockdown phase becomes more pronounced. During this three- to five-day stretch it appears that bucks have all but vanished, and visible movement comes to an abrupt halt. Every year, I witness this distinct period play out obviously between Nov. 17 and 23. The name of the game at this time is focusing on early-morning and late-evening transitional movement between bedding and feeding areas. Patience is a virtue for the stand hunter as bucks without does will still be on the move looking for does that have not yet been bred. Likewise, this period can present one of the best times to take a mature trophy whitetail as big bucks drop their guard and make breeding and traveling in search of does in estrus their top priority. Throwing caution to the wind, their sole purpose is breeding. (continued on page 38)
32| Hunting & Fishing News
Montana Fish And Wildlife Commission Adopts Regulations For Muzzleloader Season Montana Fish, Wildlife & Parks
Photo credit: twildlife|www.depositphotos.com he Fish and Wildlife Commission adopted regulations T for Montana’s first traditional muzzleloader season at its meeting on Aug. 20. House Bill 242 was passed in the 2021 Legislative Session and established a nine-day muzzleloader heritage hunting season for deer and elk that begins on the second Saturday following the end of the regular season. For 2021, the season is Dec. 11 to Dec. 19. To address this new statute, the commission adopted the following regulations, most of which are based on language from the statute: •A person may take a deer or elk with a license or permit that is still valid at the end of the general hunting season. . •Hunters can use plain lead projectiles and a muzzleloading rifle that is charged with loose black powder, loose pyrodex or an equivalent loose black powder substitute and ignited by a flintlock, wheel lock, matchlock or percussion mechanism using a percussion or musket cap. •The muzzleloading rifle must be a minimum of .45 caliber and may not have more than two barrels. •During the muzzleloader season, hunters may not use a muzzleloading rifle that requires insertion of a cap or primer into the open breech of the barrel (inline), is capable of being loaded from the breech, or is mounted with an optical magnification device. •Use of preprepared paper or metallic cartridges, sabots, gas checks or other similar power and range-enhancing manufactured loads that enclose the projectile from the rifling or bore of the firearm is also prohibited. For more information on hunting in Montana, visit https://fwp.mt.gov/hunt.
Create Hunting Gear Checklists For Your Upcoming Trips By Zach Lazzari Hunting Gear Outfitters www.huntinggearoutfitters.com This is an excerpt from “Create Hunting Gear Checklists For Your Upcoming Trips” by Zach Lazzari. Personalize your own lists and create one for each of your trips this season. Here are a couple of examples to get you started: Day Trip Hunting Checklist □Day pack or underloaded multi-day pack with meat hauling capabilities □Backpack rain cover □Butt pad for glassing □Hiking poles □Optics - binoculars, spotting scope, rangefinder, tripod □Binocular chest harness □Clothing - boots, socks, base layers, mid-layer, rain jacket and pants, heavy layer, gaiters, hat, sunglasses □Field dressing knife, replacement blades and/or sharpener □Game bags □Hunting License □Water bottle or bladder □Micro water filter, SteriPen or purification tablets □First aid and emergency kit (incl. lighter, waterproof matches, survival kit, etc.) □Smartphone/GPS with maps □Toilet paper (in ziplock) □Lunch, trail snacks and supplements □Hunting weapon and ammunition □Species specific calls □Headlamp with spare batteries... Backcountry Multi-Day Hunting Checklist □Multi-day backpack with rain cover □Tent, stakes and groundcloth □Sleeping bag-30 degree for summer, 0-degree for late season □Sleeping pad □Clothing - boots, socks, base layer, mid-layer, rain jacket and pants, heavy layer for late season □Extra protection - gaiters, warm hat, spare underwear and shirt □Hiking poles □Optics - binoculars, spotting scope, rangefinder, tripod □Butt pad for glassing □Binocular chest harness □Water bottle or bladder □Water filter plus backup purification □Smartphone/GPS with maps □Battery pack with ultralight solar panel for recharging phone, GPS and headlamp □Game bags □Hunting License □Field dressing knife, replacement blades and/or sharpener □Cook system (incl. stove, pot and fuel) □First aid and emergency kit (incl. lighter, waterproof matches, survival kit, etc.) □Headlamp □Backup headlamp or ultralight emergency light □Toilet paper (in ziplock bag) □Food - dehydrated meals, breakfast items, trail snacks, coffee pouches, supplements & other high density calorie foods as desired □Hunting weapon and ammunition □Species specific calls To read the complete article visit Hunting Gear Outfitters https://huntinggearoutfitters.com/blogs/hunting-tips-tactics/ create-hunting-gear-checklists-for-your-upcoming-trips
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34 | Hunting & Fishing News
Get Vertical: How to Manage Steep Mountain Hunts Photo credit: Ryan McSparran
By Zach Lazzari Kawdy Outfitters www.kawdyoutfitters.com
all know the situation. There’s a steep mountain that you know will lead to a big ram, bull or billy. However, getting up and Weback down that mountain without completely burning out your legs can be an issue.
It’s easy to be overly optimistic and underestimate the severity of most inclines. Many of us have been there before: you made a hard charge up the mountain, while your hunting partner read the landscape and proceeded with zig zag patterns. Your impatience didn’t put you any further ahead – and wasted a lot more energy. Here is an approach to help you tackle steep inclines on a mountain hunt: Reading Breaks in the Landscape - Looking up at a steep mountain tends to build anxiety and the desire to conquer it quickly. Take a few steps back before starting and patiently observe the landscape for breaks, tiers and natural fall lines. You can follow these features laterally to locate more gradual inclines. The route is slightly longer but much easier in the end. Visualize the route you will take using these features and follow that pattern to the top, creating your own set of switchbacks as necessary. Work Toward Goals - Sometimes, the only route is directly uphill and you must battle to the top. Breaking the hill into segments makes it mentally easier to move forward. Pick an object in the distance and make it your goal. Take a break when you reach the goal and stretch your legs. Set the next goal after a short rest and get moving. Visible goals make long distances more manageable. Working the Decline - Heading downhill can be equally as difficult as the uphill. Your legs are often more worn from hiking all day, putting you at a greater risk of falling or twisting an ankle. Utilize the same switchback approach on the downhill and take your time to find sure footing when possible. It’s easy to rush down, but slow and steady will prevent you from taking a fall. Slow and Steady - When you’re working a steep incline, remember that slow and steady is better than a short sprint. It’s better to slowly plod along and take breaks less frequently. When you move slowly, you can avoid lactic acid buildup in your legs and keep going. When you try to hammer out quick bursts, the lactic acid buildup will have you stopping every few minutes at shorter and shorter intervals each time. This slow pacing is a time-tested technique that mountaineers use to ascend big peaks. Mountain Hunting with Kawdy Outfitters At Kawdy Outfitters we hunt rugged and remote country in northern British Columbia. We offer high-adventure hunts for stone sheep, moose, mountain caribou and mountain goat. To learn more, please explore the rest of our website. For details, availability, or any other questions, please contact us at 1-250-306-8624 (Oct 15 – July 1) or 1-250-540-1179 (Oct 15 – July1) and 1-250-651-1189 (July 1 – Oct 15). We’d love to help you plan your next adventure!
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FACING SETBACKS HOW TO STAY MOTIVATED WHEN IT ALL GOES WRONG (continued from page 18)
Control What You Can, Release the Rest This one may be the hardest to apply…at least it is for me. I want to be in control - the master of my own destiny - and the simple truth is that there is so much about life that I simply have no control of whatsoever. When faced with one of those “Oh crap, I’m not the boss around here” moments, there are basically two options: 1) Try to control it anyway, send your anxiety and blood pressure through the roof, and probably drive the people closest to you insane. Or 2) recognize that you aren’t in control of that particular situation, quickly evaluate if there’s anything you could/should do to help, and then shift your focus back to things you can actually do something about.
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Case in point: about four weeks ago I jacked up my knee… like, bad. I’m still working through some steps with doctors to evaluate if it’s a really bad sprain or a full tear, and trying all the least invasive ways to heal it before digging in there. But, the second it happened, my immediate thought was, “No, this can’t happen! I’m in the middle of writing some fitness/training courses, I need to dial in my own fitness for Fall seasons, and so help me if this tries to keep me out of the elk woods this September, I’m gonna lose my mind!” I still dip in and out of attempts to control the situation, but the simple truth is there is nothing I can do. All I can control is my diligence in trying to properly rehab the injury. I can control if I push it too hard in the gym. I can control if I stay consistent with ice, compression, and doctor’s visits. But, I can’t control what exactly is broken in there, and I can’t control if I’ll be ready to hit those steep Colorado slopes again in September. When I try to control it, I start to freak out, get mad, and everything starts to spiral. When I take a deep breath and focus only on the aspects of the situation I can control, it’s a much better experience all around. My view as I write this…it doesn’t bode well. (Also, I apologize for not warning you that I don’t shave my legs) Now, that’s the mental side of the issue. There’s a whole other (and frankly, more important) side to this, and that’s the spiritual component. I’m not sure where you stand on the whole God-issue, but I don’t think I’d even remotely be able to let go of my attempts to control things if I wasn’t handing them over to the capable hands of a loving God. I’ve seen Him come through for me more times than I could even begin to list here, and it helps me in those moments when everything is going wrong to know that He’s got this, and it’s going to work out (even if I can’t see how in the moment). So, no sermon or anything, but if it’s been a long time since you’ve thought about God or tried praying, maybe give it a shot in this season. The world is a crazy place right now, so why not seek all the help you can get? There’s Always Hope As long as you have breath in your lungs, there’s hope for everything to turn around. I won’t presume to know exactly what you’re facing right now, but whether it’s hunting related or something much more serious, don’t despair. Hopefully one of these ideas gives you something you can apply and helps put you in a much healthier headspace. Yes, things get rough, but they can also be really, really good…as long as you don’t give up!
5 Key Techniques For Bowhunting October Elk (continued from page 29)
It’s important to be in these areas prior to daylight as mature bulls may spend little or no time in the open once the sun begins to light up the eastern sky. Once elk have been located pay special attention to how they move through the area. As hard as it is, fight the urge to pack up camp and beat feet to the elk in an attempt to cut them off. Generally speaking, if elk are unpressured they will exit the timber in the afternoon very near or exactly where they entered it in the morning. Mark where you last see the elk and you may have a perfect ambush point for when the elk return to feed in the evening. Setting up in these areas and enticing a bull with some light cow calling may also bring them within range. 4. The second rut
The biggest mistake I see here is most hunters set up in areas where they can see the elk approaching from a longer distance. Remember, if the elk can’t see another elk, they likely won’t come in. Instead, set up in areas that allow some visibility, but still have enough cover to entice the bull’s imagination. Terrain features like saddles or well worn trails can be excellent areas to focus on. Avoid very steep or difficult to traverse terrain and keep in mind that elk will generally try to approach from your downwind side. I like to focus mostly on cow calls during October as most bulls are generally uninterested in fighting other bulls and primarily interested in finding that last hot cow.
PARTING THOUGHTS
The best advice here is to simply “think like an elk.” What would you do in this situation? Fighting the mental battle of giving up after a long September can lead to some incredible hunting in October. Let the bulls dictate your next move but be ready for anything as the post rut season can provide many surprises and some of the best days in the elk woods.
Elk are very vocal animals nearly year round and, unless they have been recently pressured, October and, even, November elk will often times respond back to light bugling. Just like the rut, finding areas higher in elevation in an effort to broadcast your bugle over the largest area is generally the best bet. If you do find a responsive bull take care not to escalate the situation too quickly. Remember that these bulls have spent a very tiring four weeks of fighting each other and many are just simply fed up with it. Use the elks’ behavior and let them control the situation, only ramping up the calling as they do. While it is short lived, there will often be an October rut spurred on by one or two late cows in a single basin and every bull in there knows this is his last chance. This stage will generally only last a day or two so timing is critical; the action will be intense—sometimes even more so than in September. Again, let the bulls dictate how aggressive you get with your calls. Be fully aware that you may be able to simply bugle your way right into the lap of a bull. Conversely, if the wind is right and the elk are talking consistently, many hunters will simply slip in quietly and wait for an opportunity. This stage is generally impossible to predict and will only be encountered by hunters who happen to be out on these few magical days. 5. Cold calling While arguably the most boring way to hunt elk, cold calling can easily be the most effective. For this, you simply move into an area that’s heavy in elk sign and create your own scene of elk activity through calls. Now, there is a lot more to this than simply finding some tracks and calling. Location should be of your main concern, followed by the types of calls you are broadcasting as well as the ever important wind. I like to look for areas that are convenient for elk to come into, but will provide them with enough security to appear within range.
38 | Hunting & Fishing News
Deer Rut Timeline: The 7 Stages and How to Hunt Them (continued from page 32) Stage 6: Second Estrus If you don’t tag out by the end of the first round of breeding, don’t panic. A buck’s breeding instinct motivates him to continue his search for hot does throughout November and even into the early part of December. Approximately fourteen days after the first estrus, does that didn’t get bred will go into estrus a second time. I’ve witnessed this during many deer seasons, and it’s very obvious as long as you’re on top of the deer. The primary difference is that visible buck movement decreases as they localize travel to within proximity of the does that still need to be bred. Where I hunted last fall, the second whitetail estrus was most notable between Nov. 25 and 30. The second estrus can be a tricky time to hunt but if you move in tight to where does are feeding and bedding, you’ll no doubt increase your odds of getting a shot opportunity. Stage 7: Post-Rut Then, finally, the post-estrus stage brings an abrupt end to it all. With breeding accomplished, does almost seem to go into hiding. Bucks can be seen meandering here and there trying to locate any late does, but overall breeding is wrapped up, and within days both bucks and does transition into their winter survival patterns. The weather turns colder, there’s typically snow on the ground, and deer readily shift back into their bedding and feeding patterns, traveling only short distances to minimize energy expenditure. Where seasons allow, the best strategies for hunting the post-rut involve locating the best food source near prime thermal bedding cover. Hunt the food source and success will follow.
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Adventure, Elevated
The All New 2022 Subaru Outback Wilderness™ With even more ground clearance, a turbocharged SUBARU BOXER® engine, and a drivetrain tuned for serious climbing, Outback Wilderness™ lets you go farther than a Subaru has ever gone before. The standard Symmetrical All-Wheel Drive is paired with aggressive new wheels and tough all-terrain tires, and the dual-function X-MODE® has new functionality for rugged terrain. Inside, you’ll find Subaru’s most technologically advanced interior yet, clad in durable StarTex® water-repellent upholstery and showcasing an 11.6-inch standard touchscreen. With all the many upgrades and modifications, standard EyeSight® Driver Assist Technology1 and other safety features have been re-tuned to match the new vehicle height and off-road capabilities. Get ready to take your adventures to the next level in a new kind of Outback.
- COMING SOON WE ARE BUILDING A NEW SALES FACILITY TO SERVE OUR VALUED CUSTOMERS.
WHILE WE ARE UNDER CONSTRUCTION, WE ARE STILL HERE TO ASSIST YOU. CALL ONE OF OUR SALES PROFESSIONALS TODAY.
PLACER MOTORS 406-442-2603 | 1-888-433-0119 See our full line of Subaru vehicles
1515 EUCLID AVENUE, HELENA, MT. 59601
Subaru, SUBARU BOXER, X-MODE, StarTex, and EyeSight are registered trademarks. 1EyeSight is a driver-assist system that may not operate optimally under all driving conditions. The driver is always responsible for safe and attentive driving. System effectiveness depends on many factors, such as vehicle maintenance, weather and road conditions. See owner’s manual for complete details on system operation and limitations. Requires automatic transmission. 2022 Subaru Outback Wilderness™ Shown in Geyser Blue with optional accessories. Take a video tour here: https://www.subaru.com/something-wild