Western Hunting & Fishing News July 2022

HUNTING & F ISHING WESTERN

NEWS

JULY 2022

The Key To Successful Shooting...

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Kenetrek Boots And Why We Use Them Photo credits Ryan McSparran

By Ryan McSparran Caribou Gear Outdoor Equipment Co. www.caribougear.com

very once in a while, a piece of hunting gear comes along E that remains in your kit – hunt after hunt, and year after year. My Kenetrek Mountain Boots are one of them, and they’ve been through seven years of hunting seasons. In that time they’ve seen well over 200 days of hunting and perhaps more than a thousand miles under their soles. They might look a bit weathered. But they won’t be calling it quits anytime soon.

Here at Caribou Gear, the hunting gear we choose to carry in our store are items that we personally use in the field.

That goes for Kenetrek Boots. We’ve hunted in Kenetrek boots for years, and we trust them in the most demanding conditions.

Kenetrek delivers everything a hunter needs in a boot: quality materials, construction, durability, longevity, comfort and protection. Here’s a breakdown of those reasons – why we’ve chosen to use Kenetrek boots and why we recommend them to our customers:

Construction - We appreciate the fact that Kenetrek boots are built with one-piece construction with no seams down the tongue. For the hunter, this provides excellent waterproofness and abrasion resistance. What’s more, Kenetrek boots are reinforced with double and even triple stitching in high-stress areas. And it might seem like a small thing, but the lacing hardware is made to swivel. This is important because it creates a more comfortable lacing system. But even more importantly, it actually makes the boots more durable.

When the hardware is able to swivel, it reduces pulling and prevents the hardware from breaking.

Durability - If you want your hunting boots to go the distance, always look for a boot that has a full rubber rand, or reinforced rubber sole guard. This provides important protection when scrambling across scree fields, climbing though deadfall, or any of the variety of obstacles we face when hunting in rugged terrain. And again, full-grain leather uppers are also something we recommend.

Kenetrek Mountain Boots are also built with high quality outsoles for excellent traction and durability. But the durability of a boot extends beyond what’s on the outside. The 7mm nylon midsoles provide support under a heavy backpack – and they help keep the boot supportive and comfortable through years of abuse.

(continued on page 36)

©KENETREK, LLC 2022

Materials - A hunting boot that’s going to last for years must begin with quality materials. Kenetrek Mountain boots feature a 2.8mm thick full grain leather upper. They are built with bombproof hardware, a 360-degree rubber rand for added protection and a waterproof, breathable membrane.

We highly recommend hunting boots with full-grain leather uppers. When cared for, leather will last longer than synthetics and will continue to perform flawlessly year after year. Here in our dry climate in Colorado, it’s important to care for a leather boot. After each hunt, I wash the dirt and debris off my boots and use Kenetrek boot wax. If you live in a dry climate, you’ll notice that the leather (especially after a hot, dry hunt) can soak up a lot of wax. Take the time to wax your boots – especially before you put them away for long-term storage.

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EASE UP THERE, CHEETAH

The next time you’re at the range, pay attention to the other folks shooting their bows. More particularly, notice how they draw. Most people that I’ve seen at least tend to draw their bows quite aggressively. It doesn’t look like they’re going to pull the string off the cams, but the movement is definitely more than minimal. And the thing that will bust you second to the wind is movement. Animals pick up on it quite well.

All photo credits Josh Kirchner

Spot And Stalk Bowhunting Going The Extra Mile In Prep

By Josh Kirchner Originally published at

GOHUNT.com

cross the West, the standard success rate for bowhunting A is quite low. It is the standard to go on “bow hikes” and eat tag soup later in the fall. This is especially true for spot

and stalk bowhunting where you’re the one maneuvering towards the animal. You’re in the driver’s seat and if you’re not willing to truly learn how to drive well, you increase your chances even more of crashing. There is also a standard in how to prep for these hunts. Most folks seem to pick their bow up a month or so before season to start shooting.

They seem more worried about finding animals than having the skill to close the distance. And most dismiss the little things it takes to notch an archery tag by way of spot and stalk.

There’s more than meets the eye though on preparation and they’re only learned through doing.

BE UNCOMFORTABLE

Many of you before early season — myself included — head out into the backyard and shoot as comfortable as can be.

The ground is level. There’s no distractions. All there is to do is focus on making the perfect shot. I’m sure you’re great at this and smash the bullseye over and over again. Yet, what is perfect now is not going to be perfect in the field. Sneaking up on an animal forces you to put yourself in awkward positions, which often leads to awkward shooting. Maybe it’s having to bend down a little bit to make sure you clear a branch on a shot. Or maybe it’s blindly aiming at vitals through a bush, knowing your arrow will arc over the vegetation and hit your mark. These scenarios are a far stretch from the blissful shooting we experience in our backyards or at the range. I urge you to invite some of these less than perfect scenarios into your practice. Shoot in awkward positions and challenge yourself to mimic the challenge of spot and stalk bowhunting.

On a recent training hike, I noticed a buddy of mine always taking the easiest route on the trail without a care of being loud or not. This bumbling carried right over into a bear hunt. Luckily, I nipped it in the butt and we were able to kill the bear. What I brought up to him on the next training hike was trying to take the harder route of the trail on purpose.

And paying attention to how loud he was being. I told him to notice when and where it is more quiet to place his foot.

This is practical training for spot and stalk bowhunting.

A simple exercise, but extremely effective once in the field.

Know how to be quiet in uncomfortable terrain. Pay attention to it ahead of time and it’ll be second nature as you close the distance.

6 | Hunting & Fishing News

To elevate your performance in the red zone, practice drawing your bow slowly and without pointing it at the sky first. Hold the bow straight out in front of you and slowly pull the string back to your anchor. If you can’t do this comfortably, you might think about lowering the poundage of your bow. It would be a shame for everything to be going right and then that velvet mule deer catches an exaggerated movement like drawing a bow back. Ease up there, cheetah.

Slow and steady wins the race.

FLEXIBILITY AND BALANCE

It was late December and the mule deer rut was in full swing down here in Arizona. I had a good buck spotted and started making my way over to him. Him and his does were posted up in the bottom of a small cut, giving me the perfect opportunity to come in from above for a shot. Everything was working out great once I got over there. I had the wind and the deer were unaware of my presence. A measly 20 yards was all that stood between me and looking over that edge. Step by step I got closer. And then, in what seemed like slow motion at the time, I began to fall over.

Yup, I fell right over. The deer ran up and over the ridge out of my life. Funny, but there was a lesson underneath the comedy of the situation.

The lesson here was that I needed to work on my flexibility and balance. Moving slowly and fluidly is actually pretty difficult.

It sounds easy, but not everyone can do it effectively. In order to improve this in my arsenal, you ready? I started doing yoga with my wife. As hippie dippie as it may seem, trust me, it’ll help. You’ll push your flexibility and balance tenfold by participating in it. Slow and fluid movements take practice and a different kind of strength. Yoga can get you there.

Spot and stalk hunting requires a delicacy that most are simply not used to.

TEST YOURSELF

If one thing is true when it comes to shooting a bow, it’s that we don’t like to miss. Having a rock solid range every time lends to that. Knowing the exact yardage of a target or animal provides a high level of confidence on the shot.

In the perfect scenario, that elk will walk out broadside, let you range him and then an arrow would be headed his way. However, bowhunting is rarely perfect. Some folks will head to the archery range and test themselves at guessing yardage. This is great. However, I’d one up that and tell you to test yourself in the field. Our depth perception can change in different environments. Try to guess the yardage of random things while you’re actually hunting or scouting.

After the fact, hit it with your rangefinder to see how you did.

Often, things look closer than they are. By doing this, you’ll familiarize yourself with what certain yardages look like in the setting you’ll be hunting.

TIME YOURSELF

I recently wrote about this tip in a scouting piece, but think it’s equally important to mention here. Knowing how long it takes to reach certain landmarks within the area you’ll be hunting can be a game changer. Literally, it could mean the difference between filling a tag and not. So, whether it’s scouting in the pre-season or when actually hunting, take notes of the time between certain destinations or terrain features. Going on a stalk, I’ll check my watch at certain landmarks between me and the animal. This gives a much better perspective on the country. Many times we think that things are much farther away than they are. This can result in not even going on a stalk. You can’t win the game if you don’t play.

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HONE IT AND OWN IT

A lot of little things have to go right in order for a spot and stalk archery hunt to end in success. Wind direction, guessing yardage, not going too fast, not falling over (little jab at myself there). So, it only makes sense to pay attention to little things in our prep as well. They are all part of the chain of success. A building is built brick by brick. The standard of just being a good shot and being fit is not enough. There’s more to it than that. If you can’t move slow enough to go undetected, you’re done. If your good shooting doesn’t translate into awkward positions, you’re done. And if you want standard results, put in a standard amount of work.

Go the extra mile in prep, so you will succeed that much more in the field.

Hunting & Fishing News | 7

This will increase my chances of finding mule deer and, hopefully, it means finding a couple of bucks and getting to decide which one I would like to go after. Remember to pay attention to the wind direction, sun direction and have a plan for movement. If you are glassing a meadow a few hundred yards away, but you are sitting in the wide open, what will happen if a good buck pops out? Will you be able to move in without spooking him or will he pick you out? This is why I always look for cover for myself. When I have cover, my playbook gets opened up significantly and my chance of success increases.

HUNT ALL-DAY

Photo credit Brady Miller

Tips For A Successful Mule Deer Hunt During Any Season

Besides finding suitable habitat and a good vantage point, the next thing that will increase your success rate is hunting all day. This means being at the glassing location before dawn and staying until you can no longer glass anymore.

The more time you can spend behind your binoculars or spotting scope, the better the chance that you harvest an animal. Mature bucks are primarily only active at dusk, dawn and mid-day when they stand up to move a few feet or stretch their legs. If you are not there ready for them, then you might miss the opportunity to see and get to harvest a buck.

SLOW DOWN

of summer or the peak of the rut — some general tips and tricks can help you notch your tag on a bruiser buck in any state during any season. Mature mule deer bucks can be hard to find and harder to harvest, which is why we are here to help. Capitalizing on our hunting experience and other experienced hunters will allow you to succeed in your first year out West.

Once you have found suitable mule deer habitat and an excellent glassing point, your patience is about to be tested.

Hours and hours behind the glass, searching over hillsides, basins, shaded spots, other nooks and crannies will strain your eyes and your hope. Then, all of a sudden, you will spot a buck and you will switch into “go mode.” This is when I find myself making mistakes and rushing the opportunity.

Instead of rushing, the next time you find a buck, stop and slow down. See what he is doing, where he is heading, what his behavior is like and then plan a stalk or get ready for the shot. If you have picked a good glassing location, there should be no reason that you cannot get a shot off at the deer eventually. The last thing you want to do is rush it and ruin the opportunity.

FIND THE CORRECT HABITAT

DO NOT GET HUNG UP ON SCOUTING

The perfect habitat for mule deer depends 100% on the region. In some spots of a state, mule deer live in the wide-open, hiding in coolies to get a break from the sun.

In other parts of that same state, mule deer call the peaks and draws above 10,000’ their home.

When it comes to preseason scouting for mule deer, there is only one season that I usually find worthwhile, which is the earliest opening season. In most states, archery is the first season of the year and I usually only plan on doing extensive boots on the ground scouting before this season.

This is because mule deer are migratory animals even if they are only heading down the mountain to the valley.

Early on, bucks are in their summer patterns; however, after a few weeks of pressure, they change their location and behavior. They change again during the rut and, then, post-rut happens when they change their location and behavior again. Since they are constantly changing elevations, locations and movement, it is safe to say that every year will have to be treated differently and hunted as if you do not know where the bucks are. If you can do this, you will increase your success.

By Jake Horton Originally published at

GOHUNT.com

doesn’t matter whether you are planning on hunting mule Ioftdeer in the sagebrush hills of Wyoming or the alpine peaks Colorado or if you are chasing them during the last days

Regardless of where they live, they all need three main things: food, water and cover.

Food for a mule deer can vary; however, they tend to prefer greenery to sage hillsides. Water can be scarce in the West, so if an area lacks any water source, it will most likely hold no animals. And remember that cover can be anything: anywhere from a steep ditch that gets shade from the sun to a thick timber patch filled with deadfall. Keep an open mind when seeking out cover. Overall, if you have all three of these things and are a reasonable distance from the road and trailhead, the area has the potential to hold mule deer.

A VANTAGE POINT IS KEY Whenever you are hunting mule deer, the hardest part is finding them. This is why I say that a good vantage point is a key to success when chasing mule deer, especially mature bucks. If possible, I like to position myself in a glassing location where I can see multiple basins at a time.

8 | Hunting & Fishing News

Overall, mule deer hunting for mature bucks can be a challenge on the body and mind. I love chasing these bucks, but they wear me out climbing up to alpine level, blowing stalks and losing track of solid bucks. Though hunting mature mule deer is difficult, it can be one of the most rewarding animals to hunt. They truly can live in any habitat, have strong survival instincts and are constantly on the move. Hunt hard and follow these basic tips and you will be into more bucks this fall than ever before.

Lifting and carrying odd objects. Walking for long periods over uneven terrain under load. For these unique physical demands, you can accomplish a heck of a lot with a backpack, a sandbag, and these go-to exercises that will help build the legs, core, cardio, and stamina needed for success in the backcountry.

1. HIKING WITH A BACKPACK

All photos credit Willi Schmidt Vortex Optics www.vortexoptics.com

Top 5 Exercises For Backcountry Hunting

By Willi Schmidt Vortex Optics www.vortexoptics.com GET INTO HUNTING, CLIMBING, AND PACKING SHAPE WITH THESE FUNCTIONAL MOVES. So, you want to start a workout program to get ready for the fall hunting but feel a bit overwhelmed on how to start.

Think you need a lot of money for a gym membership or equipment? Nothing could be further from the truth.

Huge pecs and bulging biceps might look nice at the beach, but they don’t help you climb a mountain or carry a heavy pack in or a heavier pack out. For hunting, developing your “functional fitness” is the key.

Why it works: If you can’t walk a mile wearing a backpack without feeling like you’re going to die, you’re not going to have any fun in the mountains. Hiking under load prepares your legs, back, and core for the steady, physical demands of backpacking. If you have a new pack, it also lets you to fine tune strap/belt adjustments and, as you add weight, correct imbalances that put stress in the wrong spots.

How to do it: If you’re new to backpacking, or it’s been a while since you’ve been physically active, start with 10-percent of your bodyweight. For a 200-pound man, that’s 20 pounds. Fill a bag with sand. Add five pounds every week until you can comfortably carry 35-50 pounds.

How to use it: Shoot for a couple sessions (walking a couple miles, consistently) per week. To get your body and feet ready for the mountains, hike on rolling, uneven terrain wearing your hunting boots. If you’re a flatlander, you can condition yourself to climb hills by finding a local stadium or stairwell in a tall building.

Common form mistakes: Don’t start with a backpack that’s too heavy. Set a realistic baseline/mileage goal and progressively add more weight OR distance each week. (continued on page 33)

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Hunting & Fishing News | 9

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10 Steps For The Best Elk Sausage Eggs Benedict

NORTH MONTANA 3030 North Montana Avenue

By Nathan Slovatizki Originally published at

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All Photos Credit Nathan Slovatizki Courtesy GOHUNT.com

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he recipes that I put together for GOHUNT are a few of T the recipes that I have prepared for many hunters, family and friends. I hope you enjoy them as much as I do.

EASTSIDE 1900 9th Avenue WESTSIDE 306 Euclid Avenue

Inspired by you.

GOHUNT.com

For this recipe I used some of Lorenzo Sartini’s meat from the management bull elk he shot with his bow on a hunt with Rocky Mountain Elk Foundation and their Team Elk TV show.

Sausage ingredients * Makes 5 servings

valleybankhelena.com

¾ pound elk round steak ¼ pound pork shoulder ½ teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes 1 ½ teaspoons ground sage 2 teaspoons sugar 1 teaspoon kosher salt

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The entire contents is © 2022, all rights reserved. May not be reproduced without prior consent.

The material and information printed is from various sources from which there can be no warranty or responsibility by Big Sky Outdoor News & Adventure, Inc. Nor does this material necessarily express the views of Big Sky Outdoor News & Adventure, Inc. All photo & editorial submissions become the property of Big Sky Outdoor News & Adventure, Inc. to use or not use at their discretion. Volume 19 Issue 7 Cover Photo: twildlife | depositphotos.com

1 whole egg* 2 tsps white vinegar ½ cup lemon juice 1 tablespoon water ¼ teaspoon cayenne To taste kosher salt To taste freshly ground black pepper 1 ½ cups melted butter Poached eggs 5 whole eggs* *leave whole eggs out at room temp for one hour prior to cooking.

Quick tips - Place meat in freezer for 10 minutes before grinding.

- Freezing the meat helps it grind better. The grinder blade will get hot after a while and the meat would not grind as well if it was not partially frozen.

- Freeze grinder attachment for 10 minutes before grinding.

- Substitute a whisk for mixing the hollandaise sauce if you don’t have an immersion blender.

- Using a deeper pot will help the egg retain a better shape.

10 | Hunting & Fishing News

Directions: STEP 1 Place the meat and grinder attachment in the freezer for 10 minutes. Then cut the elk round steak and the pork shoulder into strips.

STEP 2 Grind all the meat with a coarse grinder setting.

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STEP 4 Place the first seven ingredients (egg, white vinegar, lemon juice, water, cayenne, kosher salt and freshly ground pepper) into a cup.

STEP 5 Place immersion blender into the cup and start to blend the ingredients.

STEP 6 With blender running, slowly drizzle the melted butter into the cup and emulsify with the egg. Note: be sure your butter is warm but not very hot. If you do not have an immersion blender you can use a regular blender or whisk by hand in bowl.

STEP 7 Poach eggs in large pot of water over medium/low heat.

STEP 8 Cook sausage until browned and cooked through (roughly 3-6 minutes).

STEP 9 Toast English muffin.

STEP 10 Place sausage patties on toasted English muffin, place poached egg on sausage and spoon hollandaise sauce over poached egg.

You can also add Salsa Macha to the top of the eggs for a little kick. Salsa Macha is made from guajillo chilies, arbol chilies, garlic and olive oil. All done! Serve and enjoy.

Hunting & Fishing News | 11

Northland Team Pro Nick Lindner comments: “For me, the Deep-Vee is a versatile, all-around jig fished with live bait or artificial presentations. It’s the perfect jig for ripping flukes or paddletails. I also think the hook lends itself to effective live bait fishing. Like right now in Minnesota the shiners are running and that’s what we’ve been using in the cold, early post-spawn water conditions. I feel comfortable double-hooking shiners—which aren’t cheap—with this jig. The hook is sticky sharp to penetrate the minnow mouth and come out the back, kept perfectly secure by the hook keeper, which doesn’t rip up the bait. The hook gap itself is wide enough to run minnows or plastics effectively for solid bites.”

Lindner continues: “The head itself is cool. It’s top-heavy but has a narrow bottom, which has a level of hydrodynamics.

So, when you’re popping or ripping the jig with live bait or plastic the head produces a walk-the-dog action.”

Northland’s Deep-Vee jigs offer a unique, hydrodynamic design that just catches fish. Photos courtesy Northland Fishing Tackle www.northlandtackle.com

INSTANT SENSATION: THE DEEP-VEE JIG

Deep-Vee Jig - Purpledescent

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orthland Fishing Tackle® has taken the jighead world by N storm with their new Deep-Vee Jig, an unusually shaped gem with a giant, pronounced and reflective eye and narrow, hydrodynamic keel design. It also has a wide gap, sticky sharp hook, and perfectly-sized bait keeper. Available in four sizes—1/16-, 1/8-, 1/4-, and 3/8-ounce – there’s a great option regardless of depth, species, or bait choice. And with over a dozen fish-catching colors to choose from, there’s something for every situation, regardless of water clarity or forage preference.

Available in so many sizes and colors, the Deep-Vee is really a multi-species wonder, perfect for anything from slab-sized panfish to walleyes and big green and brown bass.

However, right now—as you read this (so take heed)—anglers are slaying marble-eyed creatures of all sizes across the Walleye Belt, both on live bait and plastics like Northland Tackle’s Impulse Paddle Minnow and Impulse Smelt Minnow teamed up with the Deep-Vee Jig...

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Speaking to the vast array of 12 color options, Lindner notes he likes a few colors for Minnesota lakes, although there are choices for anglers in any Midwest situation.

“We did well recently on Lake Mille Lacs with Purpledescent and Walleye. The Walleye color is a natural match-the-hatch hue that mixes yellow and gold with a big white eye that’s easily identifiable by the fish as something to eat.

Conversely, if I’m rip-jigging soft plastics, I like brighter colors like Parrot, Bubblegum, and Sunrise.”

When it comes to rod, reel, and line set up to effectively fish the Deep-Vee Jig, Lindner keeps it simple. “I like a 7’3” medium sometimes medium-light rod, 2500 spinning reel, and eight-pound braid with a three-foot leader section of eight-pound fluorocarbon. It’s standard.”

“The Northland Deep-Vee is that jig we’ve all been waiting for. And it’s not just a walleye thing. You watch, largemouth and smallmouth bass guys are going to find out about it and secretly make the switch. It’s that good.

Period.” Brad Hawthorne

Hawthorne notes: “Being a live bait guy this time of year, the Northland Deep-Vee Jig is simply the best live bait delivery system when we’re in the jig and shiner part of the season.

At any depth—shallow to deep—the way the head is shaped gets the jig down to 1’ to 3’ feet of the bottom consistently without having to let more line out, which is perfect for walleye fishing.

You want the bait just above the fish and in the strike zone.

The shape of the head gets the bait down quick and helps you maintain a vertical presentation, which is so crucial when fish are negative to neutral. If you’re pitching live bait or plastics, the hydrodynamic head keeps the bait tracking straight.

And with the big eye—I’ve always been a fan of big eyes on baits whether it’s a crankbait, spoon, or jig—the DeepVee really appeals to a walleye’s acute vision and predatory response.”

Hawthorne adds: “Plus, you don’t have to settle for a couple patterns; the Deep-Vee comes in a dozen colors to match any situation you’ll encounter walleye fishing on a lake, river, or reservoir. From muddy water to gin clear, there are options. Plus, it’s got a sticky sharp hook that really matters for hook-ups. You’re banging rocks and bottom, getting the hook caught in multiple hard walleye mouths, and it stays razor sharp. It’s not your four or five for a dollar jig—it’s a tournament and guide-quality jig that just delivers.

I recommend it to all my clients, and I think walleye fishermen will connect with more fish if they give it a shot.”

Hawthorne concludes: “The Northland Deep-Vee is that jig we’ve all been waiting for. And it’s not just a walleye thing. You watch, largemouth and smallmouth bass guys are going to find out about it and secretly make the switch.

It’s that good. Period.”

Legendary Mille Lacs lake fishing guide and Northland pro Brad Hawthorne is another convert to the Deep-Vee Jig.

Northland Team Pro Joel Nelson adds: “Over the years, jig design hasn’t changed that much—you’ve got pill and aspirin and ball shaped jig heads—but I knew that Northland really had something awesome with the Deep-Vee head design, which is aspirin-shaped toward the top but narrows down in the keel section. In the river, depending on if you’re working up or down current, the goal is always the same: keep that jig as close to the bottom as possible because walleyes relate to sand swells, little pockets, cuts, current breaks, and of course, rocks and wood. The problem has been finding a jig that stays close to the bottom and doesn’t consistently get hung-up. The Deep-Vee is hydrodynamic, so it cuts through the depth and current and stays near bottom and doesn’t get hung up as often with that narrow keel design.”

Nelson continues: “Another thing: the Deep-Vee tracks straight when you’re pulling, drifting, popping, or ripping it behind the boat. It relates to the bottom well and allows you to size down a bit in weight, allowing for more finesse.

Whether you’re fishing a minnow, soft plastic, hunk of ‘crawler, or jumbo leech, the wire hook keeper keeps the bait pinned to the jig. The paint finish is hard and doesn’t wear off; it has a wickedly sharp hook; that big, pronounced eye; thin wire bait keeper; and they just don’t get hung up as often as most jigs. Some jigs are long-shanked and don’t have a wide enough gap—that isn’t a problem with the Deep-Vee.”

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Hunting & Fishing News | 13

PROTECTING TROUT IN HOT WEATHER

By Zach Lazzari Mystic Fly Rods www.mysticoutdoors.com ot summer weather often places trout in danger as water H temperatures rise above 70-degrees. Many river systems also experience the highest fishing pressure of the year during these summer months. Under these conditions, trout mortality can quickly spike.

Many state agencies will enact hoot owl restrictions to limit fishing to morning hours with cooler water temperatures.

Every angler should have a plan to protect resources and prevent trout mortality during the summer.

MONITOR FLOWS AND TEMPERATURES Keep an eye on flows and temperatures on your local streams and rivers. Watch the snowpack during winter to help understand how the season will unfold in terms of flows. Get your fishing in early and late in the season and plan on taking a break from the main stem rivers during the hottest parts of summer.

July is especially dangerous in the west. If your local fish and wildlife agency does not report on streamflows or enforce hoot owl restrictions, take a thermometer and check the water temperature in the morning, mid-day and afternoon when the heatwave arrives. If water temperatures push past 70-degrees, it’s time to pursue alternative options.

All photos credit Ryan McSparran

HEAD TO THE HIGH COUNTRY The most vulnerable rivers are the main stem drainages that run through the valleys. These rivers are often dewatered for irrigation needs during the hottest periods of the year.

When this happens, trout seek refuge in the coldest zones where oxygen is available and they will survive if left alone.

Take this time to explore the high country creeks and lakes that remain cold throughout the entire year. These areas are often only accessible during the summer when they are ice and snow free. Strap on a pair of hiking shoes and load your pack to explore the thousands of lakes and streams filled with trout in remote mountain hideouts.

SEEK COLD WATERS A few places remain immune to water temperature increases and they offer great summer opportunities. Tailwater fisheries have stable water temperatures and some remain ice cold even on the hottest days.

Focus your efforts on tailwater fisheries in the first ten miles directly below the dam. Temperatures can quickly increase as you travel farther away from the dam. Spring creeks also offer stable water temperatures and reliable flows. If you can locate spring fed waters, take advantage during the hot summer months.

ALTERNATIVE SPECIES

While trout suffer in the heat, other species flourish. Warm water species offer incredible and often under-appreciated fly fishing opportunities.

Start with the local bass and panfish ponds to start then expand into the world of pike and carp. Pike fisheries frequently overlap with trout and the pike are invasive in some places. Target and keep pike for the freezer when the trout need a break. Carp are another great summer species. They are picky, spooky and difficult to catch but when you do hook one, get ready for a serious battle. Sight fishing for carp is a world-class experience on the fly rod.

Zach Lazzari is a fly fishing guide and an outdoor writer based in Montana. Zach has fished and guided in Alaska, Colorado and Patagonia. Zach is also the blogger behind The Busted Oarlock.

14 | Hunting & Fishing News

Dworshak Reservoir Tops State Record Bass Once Again

By Martin Koenig, Natural Resource Program Coordinator Idaho Department of Fish & Game https://idfg.idaho.gov

ongratulations to Travis Wendt of Lewiston, Idaho on C landing Idaho’s latest state record fish. Travis hooked the massive 23.5-inch smallmouth bass while fishing Dworshak Reservoir on May 10th. After a quick photo, Travis released the bass back into the lake, and secured a new catch-and-release state record. His trophy bronzeback eclipsed the previous record of 22.75 inches set by Dustin Shepard only two years earlier in 2020.

Dworshak Reservoir - formed by the North Fork Clearwater River in north central Idaho - has a long and well-deserved reputation for trophy smallmouth bass. The reservoir has produced the last 2 catch-and-release records, but also holds all the certified-weight records for smallmouth bass since 1982.

A quick review of certified weight records, and you can see that Travis’ new 23.5” fish easily competes with some of the heaviest bass recorded from Dworshak Reservoir, and may have been close to the existing weight record of 9.72lbs (23.75 inches).

Don Schiefelbein - 7.35 lbs - 20.75 inches - September 4, 1982 Dan Steigers - 8.3 lbs - 22.0 inches - October 14, 1995 Dan Steigers - 9.72 lbs - 23.75” - October 28, 2006 (Still current!)

Travis Wendt shows off a 23.5-inch smallmouth bass from Dworshak Reservoir, clinching the latest catch-and-release record for this species.

Photo courtesy IDF&G

Biologists have learned that big bass in Dworshak have a cyclical pattern, related to the fluctuating numbers of kokanee in the reservoir. In years when kokanee are abundant - and usually smaller as a result - they provide the ample food needed to grow supersize smallmouth.

Fisheries biologist Eli Felts works on Dworshak, and started noticing the abundant small kokanee in the last two years. In his March 28 update article, Felts predicted a record bass was likely coming soon. “The bass growth tends to lag a year, so I expect to really start seeing the effect of the recent increase in kokanee abundance this year”, he said...

Check out the state record fish page https://idfg.idaho.gov/ fish/record for a list of big fish, and how you can submit an application.

Hunting & Fishing News | 15

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10 TIPS ON HOW TO HAVE MORE FAMILY FISHING FUN

Choose gear with a lot of positive reviews and fishing lures, like Rapala lures, which are well-known for catching fish. Similarly, be prepared for accidents that happen and practice patience if a rod tip gets broken, a fishing rod falls into the water, or a fishing lure gets stuck high up in a tree.

Stuff happens.

here may be nothing more sweet in this big, wide world T than gazing upon photos and videos of your kids – with smiles a mile wide – holding up what they think is a huge

Safety First – Being in or around water means safety comes first. Make sure everyone has lifejackets, stays hydrated, and that you brief the kids on hook and water safety before handing over the rod. Remember to check the weather ahead of time so you can bundle up if it’s a crisp morning, and bring sunscreen and hats if the sun is blazing.

Rapala www.blog.rapala.com

“monster” fish (even if it’s just a small sunfish or bluegill), or photos of your family all together enjoying a day fishing and having fun.

If you love fishing and you want to share it with your family, it’s important to put a little planning in up front to help the experience go as smooth as it can to create those lasting memories and those stories that will be told for years of the monsters that were caught, and the big ones that got away.

To help you introduce the ones you love to a lifetime of fishing fun, the folks at Rapala, the legendary lure maker, offer these tips: Remember, It’s All About the Little Wins – If you have smaller kids or beginners in the family, it’s likely they’ll be pulling up smaller catches. Though their sunfish might look measly to you, they might think it’s a monster! Hint, hint: So should you. Snap a picture to remember the beaming look on their faces and use this opportunity to show them how to conserve fish for future generations.

Let them guide you – When and where it’s safe, let the kids “co-pilot” with you by operating your boat’s trolling motor and guiding you to the perfect spot. Kids want to experience what the adults do. Operating a trolling motor will give them experience in positioning the boat and learning how to approach a spot.

Include Your Partner/Spouse Or Others In Your Family In the Fun – Families come in all shapes and sizes nowadays.

Use fishing as an opportunity to gather in the great outdoors and share some precious time together. Involve your partner or spouse, uncles and aunts, grandparents and close friends who feel like family. A day on or near the water can be a great way for a family to get away from our always-on digital world.

Use Good Quality Gear – Don’t skimp on cheap fishing gear. If your low-quality fishing gear breaks or malfunctions, it could ruin the moment. Good gear doesn’t cost a fortune.

16 | Hunting & Fishing News

Bring A Scale – Practice catch-weigh-photo-release to get the family in the swing of things. You can even have a competition to see who had the heaviest catch! Weigh the fish caught with a Rapala scale, perfect for taking photos that display just how hefty your catch is.

Don’t Forget the Snacks! – Make everyone’s day and keep spirits high by bringing special treats along for the ride.

Ask each family member their favorite snack beforehand to make sure everyone is included. The only ‘hungry’ ones on your fishing trip should be the fish!

Think Beyond Fishing To Get Fishing – Tell stories, take pictures, and bring coloring books for the little ones if they need a break. And remember, it’s okay if not everyone wants to fish. Some members of your family may not be too keen on fishing. Make sure they feel welcome and invite them to read a book or do another activity while others in your family are fishing. They will surely want to be there when the others are showing their catches off.

Fishing Is About Learning – Fishing can be fun, but it’s also an opportunity to be part of nature and experience other precious moments, such as watching other wildlife (turtles, frogs, ducks, squirrels), identifying plants and trees, learning how a boat works, and trying different types of presentations to see which one is most effective in catching fish. If some members of your family really turn on to fishing, feed that passion with videos about fishing. Rapala has more than 600 informative videos on its YouTube channel alone.

Make A Video – Take lots of photos and videos of your fishing trips with the family then create a short movie with iMovie to help them relive the memories of fishing when it’s cold and wet outside. It’ll be fun to make, and the final product will be a memento your family will cherish forever.

Visit www.Rapala.com for all your fishing needs.

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Lessons Learned And How I Killed The Biggest Buck Of My Life

By Trail Kreitzer Originally published at

GOHUNT.com

n 2013, on the opening day of the Utah general season Ipersonally muzzleloader hunt, I killed the biggest buck I have ever taken. That buck is a 7x6 with a maximum spread

of 39” out to the matching cheaters and scored just under 205”. Since that hunt, I have thought a lot about the factors involved and the keys to making that hunt possible. There are key factors I believe that can help me and, hopefully, someone else kill the best buck of their life this year and years to come.

Step one in killing your best buck is finding one to hunt.

Groundbreaking stuff, right? Certainly, a good hunter will consistently kill nice bucks, but for many of us, I think there is more in-depth research that we can do to aid in finding our best buck. My best buck came from a tip from a buddy.

He had an elk tag in the unit and was out scouting for his upcoming hunt. He was glassing one afternoon from a great overlook and spotted the buck I ended up killing. He knew I had a deer tag for that same unit and was nice enough to call and offer the information. In turn, I committed to offering any information I had about elk. Even before his call, there are some reasons why I had applied and obtained a tag for that unit.

One, I had hunted that unit many times before. The more time you spend hunting one unit or area, the better you understand and identify key habitat areas, water sources, access, glassing points and behavior of that area’s wildlife.

I would suggest that within most units throughout the West, there are older age class bucks and bulls available, yet those are rarely killed by hunters who are brand new to the unit.

The more you know, the better the odds of finding a trophy caliber buck or bull. I was recently asked where the best place to kill a big buck is and my answer was, “The area you know, the area that’s close to home.” The area that you can scout and hunt the most is also probably the best area for you to kill your biggest buck, provided it meets some of the other criteria as well.

Two, the unit I hunted had — and continues to offer — fewer tags than most of the other units in the area. This is not necessarily a good thing depending on what you are looking for. In this example, this unit is still a general season unit,

18 | Hunting & Fishing News

All photos credit Trail Kreitzer

but it has fewer tags because there are not as many deer.

The unit has struggled with lower buck:doe ratios and population in general. As is the case with most game and fish agencies, they observe a decline and respond in subsequent years by reducing tags and, thus, harvest.

If you are looking for a unit to hunt and want to see deer and see a good number of bucks, this is not the type of unit I would recommend. You may go days without seeing any bucks at all and there is a much higher chance of eating tag soup. However, in saying that, fewer tags result in less pressure and less harvest, generally. In this case, I was not looking for bucks; I was looking for a single big buck.

A single buck or perhaps even a handful of bucks spaced out over an entire unit are more likely to reach five or six years old if there are fewer hunters. This type of unit is not necessarily the most fun to hunt, but I do think these can be hidden gems in producing one or a few really big bucks.

A high buck to doe ratio does offer a better age class throughout an area and more bucks of good quality, but I do think that those units with low buck:doe ratios that have experienced tag cuts due to that issue for several consecutive years can produce a few truly big bucks. I think it’s worth monitoring ratios over the years and the tag numbers of units you are considering.

Three, the unit I killed this buck in is quite rugged and has some remote country. I don’t think it’s a necessity because I also killed a mid-180”s buck in the same unit right off of the road a few years later, but I do think it helped. Rugged, remote or even thick vegetation can provide cover and solitude for bucks and bulls. These areas offer the escape and hiding terrain required for them to make it through hunting seasons year after year and grow trophy caliber antlers. Once again, these areas are not always “fun” to hunt.

It can be extremely challenging to access these areas and even harder to find the bucks or bulls to hunt. I remember leaving my house many Friday nights after work and driving a couple hours and then hiking for several more to access this area. It wasn’t always fun, but it paid off for me Four, Mother Nature is truly in charge. You can’t dictate the moisture and range conditions; however in order for bucks to achieve their potential, they have to have good feed.

A buck’s primary needs are not its antlers. They need them for winning battles to mate in the fall; the primary requirement is body condition. Interestingly enough, a fawn buck that is born on a drought year is likely to be smaller throughout their lives. That buck will very possibly never reach his full potential. The year I killed my biggest buck was a much better water year. It was not the best, but from the time he would have shed in February/March until growth completed in August, the conditions remained stable and didn’t get too severe or extreme conditions.

In saying this, there is nothing you can do in regards to

moisture and range conditions, but you may consider looking for areas where there has been better moisture. If your home unit is experiencing severe conditions and your goal is to kill the buck of your lifetime, it’s going to be very very hard to do. Once again, I think it’s worth monitoring the moisture regimes for the units you are considering, not just for this year, but look back four or five years to see what the conditions may have been like the year the buck you are hoping to harvest was born.

FINDING A TROPHY In the paragraphs above I noted the factors I think can help produce a trophy caliber buck, but how do you find one once you have the tag? For me, I received a tip from a friend. He was scouting an area for elk and saw this buck and was kind enough to give me a call since he knew I had a deer tag for that same unit. That tip put me in the general area and was the key to finding and killing this buck. I am well aware of the sacredness of a hunting spot.

He didn’t have to tell me but he did due to the fact that he is a good friend and I was in return willing to offer him any information I had or gathered in my scouting and hunting efforts. We live in a time when it’s never been easier to network with other hunters. I’m not suggesting you scattergun everyone in your Instagram friends list, but I would suggest that people should actively gain as much information as they can on their own first, but don’t be afraid of reaching out to other hunters. I would also suggest that when you are on the mountain scouting during those summer months that you should try to be cordial with others you encounter. More than once I have been able to exchange information, giving some up and getting some in return, that has paid off.

Two other tools that were key for me after that initial tip were to identify the glassing points and likely locations for trail cameras. I spent most of my weekends that summer glassing the area I killed the buck. I explored every glassing option using web based 3D maps as well as hiking into the area from both the top and the bottom looking for the best options to provide me a look into every possible location the buck may be in. I never saw the buck during my summer glassing sessions. I also believe that older bucks hold a relatively tight range during the summer months and into September and perhaps even into the early days of October, so I didn’t question if he was still in the area. I didn’t see him that summer, but the scouting I had done was the most critical factor in me eventually being able to glass up and kill the buck. (continued on page 38)

Hunting & Fishing News | 19

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Ever Carve a Bear? Part I

Picture 1 (bottom) shows bear patterns for the left and right sides of the animal.

By Tom Cooper

ometimes hunters get a little depressed as winter drags S on at minus 5, or 10, or where I live, minus 20. Not only is it cold out there, but hunting season is months away, and time, like the cold, moves very slowly. There is always the option to start a new hobby, indoors might be a good idea.

Stamp collecting is certainly an option, but a hunting-related hobby is probably a better fit. I suggest carving. This article is a two-parter; Part I addresses my basic approach and describes ”how to” create your first bear and duck. Part II (next month) expands our carving experience to include more complicated animals, like those with long legs and antlers.

For me, the new hobby evolved from an activity I started for a different reason. In 1980 my mother-in-law suffered from terminal cancer and the prognosis was a few weeks. At the time, I was stationed at Hill Air Force Base, south of Ogden, Utah. My wife and daughter traveled to Missoula, Montana to help her Dad with the final days. I decided to send a gift, but struggled with what it might be. For some reason a carved duck came to mind. I found a piece of soft mahogany, and sharpened a knife. The result was an ugly duck. Of course my mother-in-law said she loved it.My carving hobby has provided entertainment for four decades.

A Hobby for Hunters?

I want to share the basics of my hobby, because I know if I can do it the way I’m about to describe, anybody can.

First, I want to be clear, there is art and then there are crafts.

My hobby is not art, it is simply a craft. Second, my carving hobby involves very little carving. As it happens I was stationed in Washington, DC in 1989, and attended a “duck carving” event in Maryland. To my surprise, there were few knives among the 30-40 expert carvers observed. Instead, a variety of rotary tools, like Dremel, Milwaukee, Chicago Electric, and others were in use by every carver. Who knew?

After almost 10 years, struggling with a knife, I purchased my first rotary tool. Over the years, I’ve carved (yes, I still use the word) bears, deer, elk, moose, antelope, sheep, goats, caribou, ducks, geese, falcons, pheasants, quail, coyotes, mountain lions, and wolves. Doesn’t this lineup look like something that might interest hunters? Remember, if I can do it, you can too. I’m about to explain why.

Start with Profile Patterns Most of my animals are 3-6 inches long, 3-5 inches tall and 2-4 inches wide. I don’t select a block of wood and start grinding to find the animal hidden in there. That would either be art or just sawdust. Here’s the key to my process: create wood profiles. You’ll be surprised how much carving is not necessary because the cut out profile, using a saw, already has much of the animal’s shape we are looking for.

First, draw or trace a profile picture of a bear and a duck within the dimensions described above. There are plenty of pictures available in outdoor magazines (or on-line).

Next, use your profile as a pattern to trace onto your wood.

For years, I used an electric jig saw (scroll blade) to cut my wood profiles (use wood clamps to tighten your board to a workbench). Now, my trusty twenty-year-old mini-bandsaw with a scroll blade provides all the sawing capability I need.

Initially, I recommend using soft wood, like Poplar. It saws, grinds, and even carves easier. As you gain experience, try Walnut and eventually Oak. Hardwoods are tougher to grind, but too expensive to waste.

We’re going to create a bear and a duck. How many wood profiles will we need for our carvings? For four-legged animals, usually two profiles are enough; one for right legs, and one for left legs.

22 | Hunting & Fishing News

All photos credit Tom Cooper

If the wood is thick enough, only two profiles are necessary.

But, our bear is wider than two thickness of ⅞ inch Poplar, so we add another profile in the middle. Picture 1 (top left) shows our trace for the third wood profile, combining left and right patterns. The middle bear profile includes all four legs (down to the knees). Picture 1 (top right) shows three wood bear profiles from the rear (like some of us, bears are broader on one end). We will return to our bear later.

For our duck, we want a profile of a bird sitting on water, like a decoy, no legs or feet. Picture 2 (top) shows our waterfowl pattern.

The head is separate; cut and glue the head separately, because it’s easier to use tools without the head in the way. Generally, multiple profiles are required for waterfowl, thicker wood allows for fewer profiles, but sawing is more challenging. Picture 2 (bottom) shows the body of our duck, consisting of four wood profiles, already glued together.

We’re using Walnut, ⅞ inch thick. First glue two profiles together, repeat with the other two, then glue two doubles together. Allow plenty of drying time, before resuming work.

Since Picture 2 (bottom) shows evidence of grinding, let’s address tools needed for our hobby.

Minimal Tools Required

Finally, drill tiny tapered holes on the head where you want the ears, then glue the ear post into the hole, pointing it in the desired direction. For our bear, Picture 3 (bottom) shows the head, with ears, glued in place. Ducks don’t have mammal-like ears.

Eyes are not difficult. Simply drill a small shallow hole, and glue a tiny black bead in place. However, before drilling, we mark where to drill. Use the pencil marks to verify the positioning on our bear’s head. Ending up with one eye on the left forehead and the other on the right cheekbone will not make you a happy carver. Picture 3 (bottom) also shows our bear with eyes. Our duck’s eyes are added the same way, maybe with larger beads.

Besides a bandsaw or jigsaw, a rotary tool, and an assortment of rotary and drill bits (Picture 3 (top left) shows a selection), we’ll want a, rasp, small wood files, various grit sandpapers (#80, #100, #150), and wood clamps (for gluing). Yes, include a knife too! A vice that opens to 5-6 inches holds carvings solidly when using our rotary tool or files. However, a lot of rotary tool work is accomplished by holding our carving with one hand and the tool in the other. At times, a small hand-held jig saw is useful for trimming excess wood.

A vacuum will keep most sawdust in your work area rather than the family room. Don’t forget wood glue.

Ok, back to our bear. After gluing three profiles together, using at least two wood clamps each time, we’re ready to fire up our rotary tool, with a large grinding bit, to remove excess material. Use short strokes, like a carving stroke. Because the bear required three profiles, there is considerable material to remove from the bottom and between the legs, front and back. Next, use a file, then sandpaper to continue to remove material and to shape, smooth, and round the legs. Remember, legs should taper down to the feet, both inside and outside. Now decide how much material to remove to shape the head and neck, then file and sand. Be careful with the head, remove material slowly (removing too much is not good). Rounding the rump is easier, but still requires filing and sanding. Typically, filing and sanding are accomplished several times, until the carver is satisfied, Picture 3 (top right).

Our duck requires removal of excess material on the front end and the tail (ducks are narrower at both ends).

From there, it is all about shaping, and smoothing with rotary tools, files, and sandpaper. Before gluing the head on (in this case two profiles glued together), complete most of the shaping, rounding, and sanding. Make sure both surfaces are flat to glue them together. The bill can be a challenge, but don’t try for too much detail, it is not needed on our first duck. Additional filing and sanding is required to blend the neck onto the body, after the glue is dry.

Ears and Eyes for Bears and Ducks Ears can be difficult because of their small size. There are two options: 1) Include the ears on the wood profile, which puts them in the right place, but it’s more difficult to trim excess material. 2) Cut the profile without an ear and separately grind (rotary tool) an ear on the end of a thin, narrow strip of wood, then cut the ear off of the strip leaving a ⅛-¼ inch, tapered “post” below our ear (toothpick size).

Before applying paint or stains, sand, starting with coarse grit (#80) and finish with fine grit (#150). I tried painting for a couple of years, but my ability to mix colors just didn’t happen. I mostly use stains (dark walnut, red oak, light oak, etc). With stains, the wood grain is more apparent. It is the carver’s choice. We stained our bear with dark walnut, which literally looks black on Poplar. Our duck was left unstained to provide a Walnut example. Four to six coats of satin urethane, sometimes more, are needed to complete our project (steel wool or lightly sand between coats).

Yes, it’s ok to sign and date the bottom of each carving.

Picture 4 shows our completed bear and duck.

You all did pretty darn good for your first carvings (given the limitations of your instructor). We started with bears and ducks for a reason; creating these “less-complicated’’ profiles provides the experience and confidence needed for “complicated” animals. Part II, in next month’s issue of Western Hunting and Fishing News, we address more difficult four-legged animals, with skinny legs, and antlers.

It’s a Hobby, Enjoy!

It’s great if you have a heated shop, storage shed, or garage, but unfinished rooms work just fine too. There is lots of sawdust, so keep the vacuum handy. Do not even think about a glass of wine or beer when working, too many sharp objects. Speaking of sharp objects, over the years, I’ve replaced numerous rotary bits and saw blades.

As you progress to harder wood, bits will overheat as they begin to dull. Replace them. Otherwise we apply too much pressure, heating more and increasing risk of cut fingers. Forty years and just one trip to an emergency room for stitches in my thumb; I was too close to the bandsaw blade. Visits to the ER are not mandatory.

However, if carving is your new hobby, keep a first aid kit handy. Even if you don’t actually use a knife, band aids are mandatory. That’s it for Part I, we’ll talk again next month.

Hunting & Fishing News | 23

Photo courtesy Mike Hanback www.bigdeerblog.com

How To Plan The Best Outfitted Big Game Hunt

By Mike Hanback Big Deer Blog www.bigdeerblog.com

big deer up in Saskatchewan one time, I met a Hunting guy, let’s call him Mark, from Maryland.

“Heard you got your buck,” I said, “Congrats.”

“Yeah, a small one,” Mark replied. “I couldn’t take it anymore.

I’d sat in that blind for 3 straight days, 9 hours a day. I was going crazy. I don’t like that kind of hunting. I said what the hell and shot this buck, just to shoot something.”

I peeked into the bed of his guide’s truck. Up there in the land of giant deer, where a 140-class buck is marginal and a 160 is very possible if you put in your time and get lucky, my new friend had shot a yearling 8-pointer that scored, tops, 70 inches.

I felt bad for Mark. I’m sure he felt he’d wasted $7,000 on the hunt. But he could have avoided that situation when he’d booked his trip. Before he plunked down a deposit, he should have called the outfitter and grilled him on all aspects of the hunt. The outfitter is a great guy and a straight shooter. He would have told Mark that he’d be sitting on stand for many hours each day, waiting for a quick chance at the buck of his dreams. He would have known exactly what he was in for. Since he didn’t like that style of hunting, Mark could have rethought the trip and booked a more suitable hunt someplace else.

Before you book an out-of-state hunt with an outfitter, call and ask questions, questions and more questions. What is the country like? Will I be sitting in a stand or blind all day, or will I be moving around? It is hard climbing? Will I still-hunt?

Make sure an outfitter’s methods jibe with your style of hunting. It’s a huge part of planning an out-of-state trip.

24 | Hunting & Fishing News

Plan Wisely The earlier you start planning a hunting trip, the better. Many Western and Midwestern states have deadlines, typically in late winter or spring, for applying for deer and big game tags. While you’re out of luck for this fall, it’s never too early to start planning a hunt for 2023 or 2024.

Go online and check out the websites of states or provinces you’d like to hunt. Review population and harvest data for your target game. Work your mouse until you find the phone numbers and email addresses for state or regional wildlife biologists. Contact these experts and ask them about the health of herds, areas where the trophies live, areas where pressure is lightest, etc. Download maps and regulations.

On some websites, you’ll find a list of licensed outfitters.

These are the guides you’ll want to talk to. Phone and email as many as possible. Again, ask questions, questions and more questions. Knowledge is power!

Get In Shape Once you’ve settled on a place to hunt, and shelled out a big deposit to an outfitter, get your body and mind in shape. An area might have a good population of 6×6 elk or goats, but if you can’t climb the mountains and get to them, your chances of scoring are low. And you ought to get fit, even if you plan a less-taxing hunt for deer, bears or pronghorns. The fitter you are, the better and safer you’ll hunt. Go on a cardio and light weight-training program months or a year before your hunt. If you’ve been out of the gym awhile, consult your doctor.

Gear Up I once shared a tent camp with a guy in Montana’s Bob Marshall Wilderness. On the first night of our elk hunt, it snowed 8 inches. The hunter had no rain gear, and no rubber pac boots. He borrowed some stuff from his guide and me, but he still froze and was miserable.

He didn’t see many elk either, because he was so cold and grumpy that he hunted only a few hours each day. And he brought along a cheap binocular. He was unable to glass the few elk his guide pointed out. He went home without a bull and out 6 grand.

Don’t head west or north with 3 or 4 crammed duffels (if you fly, an airline will charge you a hundred bucks for excess baggage). Carry one large duffel with all the right stuff. Plan well and pack efficiently. Above all else, take the best optics you can afford. If you can’t see and shoot a buck or a bull clearly, why go?

Practice Your Shooting Months before your hunt, start shooting your bow, muzzleloader or rifle. Multiple trips to the gun or 3-D range over the summer will give you confidence in your weapon. When you arrive in camp, shoot your bow or gun before hunting to make sure it is still dead-on.

Don’t Guide The Guide I’ve seen it happen in many camps across North America. A guy, generally a whitetail hunter from back east, shows up to hunt mule deer, elk, whatever. The first day he lets everybody know what an awesome hunter he is. That was his first mistake.

Our hero hunts a couple of days, but doesn’t score.

Then he starts guiding his guide, saying, “Let’s move to a new spot, or try this, it works for me back home.” Days pass and he keeps riding the guide and outfitter, until everybody in camp is miserable. The dude generally gets skunked.

When you arrive at a new destination, chill. Be a nice guy and forge a bond with your guide and the other hunters in camp. If you did your homework and selected a reputable outfitter, chances are your guide will be skilled. It might take several days or a week to score, but the guide and outfitter know what they are doing and they want you to kill out. Or you might not kill, that’s why they call it hunting. But if you go with the right mind-set, you’ll have a great time in awesome game country.

That, my friend, is money well spent.

Quick Tips For

Field Judging Antelope

By Zach Lazzari Table Mountain Outfitters www.tablemountainoutfitters.com

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ield judging antelope is a subjective art that requires F a keen eye and great optics. Closer is always better but sometimes you are forced to make decisions from

a long distance. Elk and deer are far easier to judge because they have distinct tines and features that are easy to spot. An antelope’s horn features are subtle and can be difficult to discern.

Our guides are experts at judging antelope.

Experience and repetition are the best teachers.

But if you’re new to pronghorn hunting, here are a few quick tips that can help you better judge a pronghorn buck in the field.

Record Book Requirements The minimum score for Boone and Crockett entries is 70 but it takes 80 to make the four-year report.

The all time records go 82 or greater. The scoring formula is based on length of horn, length of prong and circumference. This means hunters should be looking for height, mass and long prongs in the field.

Pronghorn shed annually and their regrowth is not consistent year over year. They will produce greater or lesser horns based on health and range conditions.

Clues in the Field Using the ears as a comparative measuring point is ideal in the field. Ears on pronghorn are 5-6 inches in height when you’re looking straight on but closer to 7-inches from a side profile. You are looking for around three times the ears in horn length for a quality buck.

To make things more difficult, not all pronghorn bucks have horns that curve the same direction. If a buck’s horns curve back, he won’t look very big from the front.

Only when he turns sideways will you see the entire length. Or, a buck whose horns curve inwards might look small from the side view. Then when he turns straight on, you can get a better view of his length.

All that to say, it’s important to view an antelope buck from many different angles before you can decide if he’s worth pursuing. Many antelope are smaller than perceived by new antelope hunters.

Watch as many antelope as possible to improve field judging accuracy. It really takes some time to get a feel for size and many antelope will look very close in size.

You will know when a big one arrives after watching the bulk of small and average size bucks. Investing in high quality optics also delivers an advantage for field judging.

Scoring After the Shot You have an antelope down and it’s time to get busy working. Take care of the meat first and get everything field dressed, cooled and transported for processing. After the meat is handled, you can turn the focus to actually scoring the buck.

Antelope with mass and strong prong measurements tend to score quite a bit higher. There are plenty of nice, tall horns that score 70+ up to 80 but the difference maker over 80 comes from that mass and prong length.

To score your antelope buck, you can use the Boone And Crockett online scoring calculator here: https://www.boone-crockett.org/online-scoringcalculator Learn More About Antelope Hunts with Table Mountain Outfitters If you’d like to learn more about our guided antelope hunts at Table Mountain Outfitters, please take a few minutes to read the information on our antelope hunting page https://www.tablemountainoutfitters. com/hunts/antelope/. You’ll find details and pricing on all of our hunts. For availability and other details, please feel free to contact us. You can find all of our contact information here: https://www.tablemountainoutfitters.com/contact-us/.

Hunting & Fishing News | 25

Photo credit Ryan McSparran

5 Rules to Follow When Stalking Big Game

By Ryan McSparran Dark Timber Lodge www.darktimberlodge.com

very big game hunt comes with its own set of E challenges. But when it comes to putting a stalk on any mature animal, there are a few universal rules. Whether stalking elk or mule deer here in Colorado, here are 5 rules you should always remember…

1. Limit Unnatural Noises When hunting many big game species, you can often get away with natural noises. Breaking a stick or rolling a rock may not get you busted. But the sound of a zipper or the scratch of Velcro and it’s game over!

As much as possible, minimize unnatural noises. Noisy fabrics, zippers and Velcro are the most common problems. We also loathe those crinkly-sounding water bottles. These types of noises will immediately make your presence known to anything within earshot.

And if you’re hunting in the high country, you may be shocked at how far sound carries across these western landscapes. It’s sometimes possible to hear a conversation on the next ridge over.

2. Stay off the Skyline When you pick the route for your stalk, do everything you can to avoid topping out on a ridge or hill. Stay off the skyline. Travel below ridgelines and conceal your movements with rocks, ravines or vegetation as much as possible. Even animals that aren’t known for sharp vision will pick out your silhouette on a skyline in a heartbeat.

3. Always Watch the Wind Remember that concealment includes wind. Never forget it. Always keep your attention on the wind and execute your stalk accordingly. Even when there’s no prevailing wind, mountain thermals will still move your scent up or downhill as the air travels. As a general rule, thermals will be coming downhill before sunrise, and then begin to rise when the sun hits the ground.

26 | Hunting & Fishing News

4. If Conditions Aren’t Right, Stay Patient After you locate game, keep your cool and don’t rush in if conditions aren’t right. If the wind or lack of cover makes for a bad approach, stay patient. If you avoid blowing the animals out, you may give yourself a better opportunity. If you blow them out, you risk not seeing them again. But stay patient, and there’s a good chance you’ll end up with a shot opportunity.

Photo credit tom@tnphoto.ca | www.depositphotos.com

5. Watch out for the Boss When a stalk is blown, it’s often the lead cow or doe that can make you curse. Don’t forget that she’s the one to contend with. When you’re after a big buck or a bull, it’s easy to get tunnel vision and forget the other eyes around him. When planning the perfect stalk, remember that staying concealed from those extra sets of eyes is usually more important. That matriarch cow or the lead doe can be the greatest obstacle to a successful stalk.

Spot and Stalk Hunts with Dark Timber Outfitters Here at Dark Timber Outfitters, we offer high adventure mountain hunts in Colorado units 61 and 62.

For more information visit www.darktimberlodge.com.

For details on availability, you can call Adam directly at 208-691-3014...

Shooting Sports And Hunting: A Guide To Choosing The Best Electronic Hearing Protection Today’s marketplace offers more choices than ever. What’s best for you?

Traditions Media t’s a golden age for consumers. Whatever product people Iever shop for today, they’ll find more choices and options than before. Given its recent growth and increasing diversity of

participants, this certainly holds true in the shooting sports and hunting markets. Even in a seemingly simple category like electronic hearing protection, the choices can seem overwhelming.

Understanding Electronic Hearing Protection

There are two basic types of electronic hearing protection designed for hunters and shooting sports enthusiasts; the earmuff type worn over the ears, and the in-ear or earbud type that fits inside the ear canal. Both use external microphones, internal speakers, electronic circuitry and a gain adjustment to collect and amplify ambient, low-intensity sounds like conversation, range commands and the noises made by wildlife. This is the primary benefit of electronic hearing protection that makes it such a popular choice; it actually allows wearers to hear better, which is a real advantage in any hunting or shooting situation. At the same time, these devices help limit loud, potentially harmful sounds like those produced by gunfire. This is accomplished by the device’s internal circuitry essentially turning off amplification when it senses a noise over a certain level. At that point, the device provides protection just like “passive” hearing protection products, such as simple foam ear plugs or standard earmuffs, that help block potentially harmful sound levels from entering the ear canal and damaging the delicate structures inside.

The decision to select electronic earmuffs or electronic earbuds largely depend on personal preference, but any decision should begin with an understanding of the amount of protection that is needed or desired.

Understanding Noise Reduction Rating (NRR) Hearing protector attenuation ratings differ from region to region, and product packaging may display more than one attenuation rating. All attenuation rating numbers are given in decibels (dB) and are based on laboratory tests designed to estimate the passive noise reduction of the hearing protector. They are not designed to predict the exact amount of protection an individual user will achieve.

Physical fit matters; how well a particular device fits or does not fit the specific anatomy of any given wearer will impact the actual amount of protection delivered to that individual.

NRR is the standard attenuation rating used in the United States and is also accepted for use in other parts of the Americas and some Asian countries. The U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) promulgated NRR and its labeling requirement in 1979. The EPA also specifies the standard to be used during the testing, which determines the NRR. The important thing for consumers to understand about NRR is that higher NRR numbers denote greater effectiveness. In other words, a product with a higher NRR number attenuates more noise under laboratory conditions than a product with a lower NRR number.

Photos courtesy Traditions Media

NRR

Depending on design and construction, electronic hearing protection devices – earmuffs and earbuds – typically have labeled NRR’s between 21dB and 30dB. NRR can be applied directly to both continuous and impulse noises, so an unsuppressed rifle report that peaks at 156dB can be brought down to a 135dB peak by using properly fitted hearing protection with a 21dB NRR. The same rifle report, however, can be reduced to a peak of 126 dB using properly fitted hearing protection with a 30dB NRR. But since acoustic energy doubles every 3dB, there’s still a big difference between the two; 135dB is three times the sonic intensity of 126dB. That’s why shooters should pay close attention to the NRR number on the packaging of any hearing protection device they consider purchasing.

What and Where Are You Shooting?

It’s always wise to select a hearing protection product with the highest available NRR, but some additional variables are worthy of consideration. Certain firearms are louder than others, and shooters should contemplate this fact when selecting electronic hearing protection. A firearm’s specific caliber, cartridge, barrel length and other variables will impact the amount of impulse noise it generates when fired – typically anywhere from 130dB to 160dB. The distance from the muzzle to the shooter’s ears also has an impact.

Keep in mind that louder, more powerful guns require more protection.

ENVIRONMENT The shooting environment matters too. Indoor shooting produces a lot of reverberation and covered outdoor shooting can be just as bad. Sound has nowhere to go in these environments, and the impact is increased sonic intensity.

Shooters need to think about the specific firearm they are using, the environment they are using it in and make hearing protection decisions accordingly. The safest option is to always use the highest NRR product you can find.

Doubling up – wearing foam earplugs beneath passive or electronic earmuffs – provides additional protection and is actually recommended by the National Institute for Occupational Safety & Health (NIOSH). It is also worth mentioning that silencers and suppressors – currently legal to own in 42 states – are effective in the reduction of impulse noise created by firearms and, therefore, represent another available tool for the prevention of hearing damage.

No suppressor, however, should be considered a substitute for well-fitted hearing protection.

Shop Established Brands Trying various models at your local shooting range or pro shop is one of the best ways to shop for electronic hearing protection. Limiting your search to well-respected brands is another.

(continued next page)

Hunting & Fishing News | 27

Shooting Sports and Hunting: A Guide to Choosing the Best Electronic Hearing Protection (continued from previous page)

Founded by Howard Leight in the early 1970’s, the Howard Leight brand is owned and backed by the significant resources of Honeywell. Additionally, Howard Leight owns and operates its own acoustical research laboratory, one of just a few such accredited facilities in the U.S. If buying online, take the time to read consumer reviews and return any purchased device that fails to fit or perform properly or lacks NRR on its packaging.

Electronic Earmuffs Advantages and Options Electronic earmuffs have been on the market for over a decade, and a wide variety of examples are available on the market today. They may look similar at first glance, but usually offer subtle differences in design, construction and ergonomics.

Howard Leight offers a complete range of electronic earmuff models, sizes and styles with NRR’s ranging from 21 (Impact Sport Bluetooth®) to 30 (Impact Pro). After NRR, fit is a primary consideration; the muff must seal around the ears and stay in place to help provide the intended and advertised level of protection. Heads and ears differ in size, and ear location varies as well, so adjustability is an important consideration. Look for a muff that offers vertical adjustability of the earcups, which should be large enough in size to contain the entire ear.

For obvious reasons, comfort is another important factor.

When shopping for electronic earmuffs, look for padding in the headband and take note of the quality and feel of the earcup cushions. Try them on before buying if you can.

Make sure they are tight enough to remain in place, but don’t squeeze your head to the point where it becomes uncomfortable. Howard Leight offers two sizes – Adult Medium/Large and Youth/Adult Small – in its popular Impact Sport Classic and Impact Sport Bluetooth lines to facilitate a proper fit on a wide range of individuals.

IMPACT SPORT BLUETOOTH SMALL Physical size is also an important consideration for shooters.

Like passive earmuffs, an electronic earmuff’s ability to attenuate sound is largely determined by the size – and more accurately, the volume – of its earcups. Larger, thicker earcups like those found on the Howard Leight 30 NRR Impact Pro don’t typically interfere with anything when shooting pistols and some other firearms, but they can impact cheek weld and cause other challenges for some people when shooting rifles and shotguns. Howard Leight Impact Sport Classic and Impact Sport Bluetooth are excellent choices for hunters and shooting sports enthusiasts who prefer slimmer designs and low-profile earcups.

HUNT All electronic earmuffs employ internal compression circuitry to momentarily cut off sound to the internal speakers when it reaches a certain level, usually 85dB. Some use analog circuitry and some use digital. Both have benefits. Analog circuitry requires less power, so increased battery life is the primary benefit. Digital circuitry uses more power, so battery life is shorter than analog. Digital circuitry, however, has a faster attack time. This means digital electronic earmuffs can sense and respond to loud noises significantly faster that analog models, resulting in a more natural sound quality preferred by many. Howard Leight Impact Sport Classic and Impact Pro hearing protectors use analog circuitry for up to 350 hours of battery life. Howard Leight Impact Sport Bluetooth employs digital compression circuitry which supports a fast, 0.5-millisecond reaction time.

28 | Hunting & Fishing News

Beyond the primary considerations already mentioned, many electronic earmuffs offer other features that broaden appeal to certain users.

Shooters often pack up and leave the range while forgetting to power off their earmuffs. It’s a common occurrence that results in drained batteries and disappointment during the next shooting outing. All Howard Leight electronic earmuffs have an auto shutoff feature that powers the device off after four hours to help avoid this situation.

Some electronic earmuffs feature an AUX input and cord, or even Bluetooth connectivity to allow wearers to listen to music or other streamed content from their mobile device.

Is this important to you? If so, select electronic earmuffs that facilitate your desired connectivity. Howard Leight Impact Sport Classic and Impact Pro include an AUX input and cord for this purpose, while Impact Sport Bluetooth employs Bluetooth 5.0 for wireless connectivity and convenience.

COLOR Finally, shooting enthusiasts and hunters are individuals with their own sense of style and taste. This means that aesthetics can impact buying decisions. Do you want to blend into nature or stand out in the crowd? Some electronic earmuffs are available in one or two colors only, while other manufacturers offer models in multiple colors and patterns.

Howard Leight’s Impact Sport Classic and Impact Sport Bluetooth lines offer 18 distinct color and pattern choices to meet the needs and personal preferences of a wide range of shooting sports participants and applications.

Electronic Earbuds Advantages and Options Electronic earbuds are quickly becoming a favored option among hunters and shooters who appreciate the sound amplification advantages of traditional electronic earmuffs, but want the lightweight, unencumbered advantages of earplugs.

Electronic earbuds provide both.

Their only real disadvantage is that some people simply don’t like the feeling of something inside their ears.

In Ear Howard Leight offers two models of in-ear electronic hearing protection.

Both feature a NRR of 29dB, a rechargeable 200 mAh lithium battery, hear-through volume control, automatic attenuation of dangerous sounds over 85dB, and a highly comfortable and effective fit via three sizes of soft foam ear tips with moldable ear hooks.

Howard Leight Impact Sport In-Ear Passive Hear-Through Technology comes in a stealthy OD Green color and is ideal for hunters or anyone who doesn’t need or desire Bluetooth connectivity. Howard Leight Impact Sport In-Ear Bluetooth with Hear Through Technology comes in black and offers the additional advantages of wireless Bluetooth 5.0 connectivity.

As with all other forms of hearing protection, proper fit is the key to maximum performance. People’s individual ear canals are different sizes and shapes, so look for electronic earbuds that come with different sizes of soft ear tips for a tight seal. One size does not fit all.

If shopping for electronic earbuds with Bluetooth capability, look for models that use Bluetooth version 5.0 or greater, as it allows wearers to connect wirelessly to their Bluetooth-enabled devices, such as smartphones, tablets and computers over Bluetooth Low Energy, which means longer battery life via reduced power usage...

For more visit howardleightshootingsports.com.

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Hunting & Fishing News | 31

All photos credit Montana Decoy www.montanadecoy.com

BEGINNERS GUIDE TO ANTELOPE HUNTING Montana Decoy www.montanadecoy.com

ith fall just around the corner, one of the first big W game species to hunt across the Midwest and western states is the pronghorn antelope. For hunters

PRACTICE LONGER SHOTS WITH YOUR WEAPON

that are new to antelope, you will find that they present some challenges that are completely unique to their species and very different from a deer or elk hunt.

In order to be able to hit the ground running and overcome some of these obstacles, here are some of our best tips on how to hunt antelope for new hunters.

CHOOSE A STATE AND SEASON The first thing you will need to decide is where you plan to hunt and when you want to go. Many states offer excellent antelope hunting though Wyoming draws many hunters each year. This state offers a high population and pretty solid success numbers.

You can find hunting seasons anywhere from September 1st all the way to December 31st, although most archery hunting takes place in the early September weather with rifle hunts usually in October and November. Every unit and location is different.

So pick a state and area that fits your schedule and needs.

CAREFULLY PLAN OUT YOUR STALK AND APPROACH

Antelope see really well.

Staying out of their sight is very important so take some time to carefully plan out your stalk before making it. While the country they live in may seem featureless with little to no concealment, even things like shallow ditches or tall grass can hide you just enough in order to allow you to sneak within the shooting range.

32 | Hunting & Fishing News

It doesn’t matter if you are hunting with a rifle or archery equipment, you should be very comfortable with your weapon and practice out to longer ranges. Because getting close to antelope can be difficult, longer shots are very common. Practicing out past 200 or 300 yards with a rifle or out to 60 yards or further with a bow throughout the summer.

STAY PERSISTENT AFTER BLOWING A STALK

When you inevitably blow a stalk and scare off a herd, don’t get discouraged. Stay persistent and see what they do. While antelope can run at amazing speeds and cover a large amount of ground in short periods of time, they generally do not run very far in order to conserve their energy. Once an antelope goes out of sight, they will typically slow down or stop completely.

This is when persistence, as in following them, can afford you another opportunity.

HAVE FUN AND LEARN

Hunting antelope is completely different from any deer or elk hunt. And the first time hunting them will be a huge learning experience. Make sure you take the time to relax and just have fun, and let the experience be a good one. Even if you do not punch your tag, hunting antelope is an extremely fun challenge and adventure.

Top 5 Exercises For Backcountry Hunting (continued from page 9) 2. LUNGES Why it works: Every day is leg day hunting in the mountains.

Lunges work the quads, hamstrings, glutes, and calves—all of the muscles you’ll use while on your hunt. Lunges also require a certain degree of balance, which means you’ll also engage your core and the stabilizing muscles required when traversing mountainous terrain.

How to do it: Start with low weight and do three to five sets of 10-15 reps, alternating legs. To begin, do all front lunges and then alternate to do all reverse lunges. Once you feel comfortable doing this, do a front lunge with the right leg going forward, then immediately go into a reverse lunge with the same leg. You may need to place your right leg on the ground for balance between the lunge and reverse lunge, but work to a point where you don’t need to do this.

Do all the reps with the right leg doing the movement and then go to the left leg. Once you feel comfortable with the bodyweight and the movement, you can begin to add weight.

Common form mistakes: It is easy to put too much strain on the knee when doing this exercise. Make sure the steps forward and back are far enough to maintain a 90-degree bend on the leg that is planted (in front).

In other words, your knee should never extend out over the toe.

3. SANDBAG GROUND-TO-SHOULDER Why it works: This movement is a great, total-body exercise, which conditions you for many of the real-world physical demands you’ll experience in the mountains. When executed with multiple sets/reps, it’s also a great stamina builder that taxes your heart and lungs.

How to do it: Start with a lightweight sandbag or backpack filled with weight on the ground in front of you. Grab it with both hands in a squat, keeping your back straight, not hunched over. Lift the weight with both hands to a standing position and touch your right shoulder with the object.

Reverse the movement and lower the object to the ground in front of you, then repeat the move raising the object to the left shoulder. Alternate right and left.

Common form mistakes: Bending to grab the object with an arched back can put too much strain on the lower back, especially with heavier weights. Start light to get the movement down and increase the weight over time.

(continued on page 36)

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MULE DEER COMING IN AS NEW WORLD RECORD Typical Velvet Mule Deer Topping The Charts As New World Record

By Dylan Ray Pope & Young www.pope-young.org

n Saturday, May 14th, Pope and Young convened O a Special Panel of Judges in Ogden, UT for a potential World’s Record Typical Velvet Mule Deer.

Bowdy Gardner’s Typical Velvet Mule Deer scored an incredible 218 2/8” and is now the largest bowharvested Typical Velvet Mule Deer in North America.

This amazing deer was taken and entered into the records program nearly 10 years ago and is now recognized as the new world’s record after the original score was upheld by a panel of measurers.

Measurers present at the Special Panel were Larry Streiff, David Nielsen, Stan Zirbel, Pope and Young’s Director of Records, Tim Rozewski, and Pope and Young’s Records Chairman, Roy Grace. With a confirmed final score of 218 2/8” Gardner’s buck is officially the new Pope and Young World Record.

“This is a tremendous mule deer that has been awaiting this moment since it was taken in Kane County, Utah in 2012. When Pope and Young changed their stance in 2021 and allowed velvet antlered animals to be eligible for world record status within their own respective categories, we were finally able to authenticate this buck”, stated Roy Grace, Pope and Young Club’s Records Chairman. “It also demonstrates how sportsmen’s dollars, coupled with oversight from the Utah Division of Wildlife Resources, can properly manage these incredible animals and provide opportunity for sportsmen to pursue them.”

This World Record Typical Velvet Mule Deer was originally entered into the 28th recording period which represented entries accepted into Pope and Young’s Records Program from January 1st, 2011, to December 31st, 2012. As previously stated, Pope and Young changed their policy in 2021, allowing velvet antlered species to be eligible for World’s Record status within their own velvet categories.

As such, nearly ten (10) years later, this incredible buck is now crowned as the new velvet World’s Record.

At the close of every biennial recording period, numerical awards and honorable mentions are awarded to the most outstanding bowharvested animals in each species category that have been entered during this two-year recording period.

New World’s Records are verified and proclaimed, and awards are presented to these outstanding animals during Pope and Young’s Biennial Convention and Awards Banquet.

Pictured: From Left to Right: Jason Rounsaville, Executive Director, Larry Streiff, Roy Grace, Records Chairman, Stan Zirbel, David Neilsen, and Tim Rozewski, Director of Records.

Photo courtesy Pope & Young www.pope-young.org

34 | Hunting & Fishing News

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Hunting & Fishing News | 35

Top 5 Exercises For Backcountry Hunting (continued from page 33) 4. BOX STEP-UPS

Kenetrek Boots And Why We Use Them (continued from page 4)

Why it works: Hiking in the mountains requires you to traverse steep inclines, often while stepping onto or over rocks, logs, or other large objects along the trail while also carrying a pack on your back. Box step-ups help build the balance, legs, and lungs required for this.

How to do it: Like these other exercises, start with bodyweight.

Start on the ground with both feet. Step up with one foot and bring the other one up and stand up tall. Step down with the same foot you raised and bring the other one down so you’re standing on the ground again. Step up with the other foot for the next rep and repeat. Alternate each rep so each leg is getting the same reps. Aim for 350-400 step-ups (unbroken) as a baseline. When you can comfortably hit this number, try adding some weight in the form of a sandbag or a weighted backpack. Set a goal to increase the number of step-ups in each session.

Common form mistakes: The biggest mistake with this workout is to start with a box that is too tall. Start with a box about 12-15” tall and gradually increase the height of the box or bench until the height of your box measures between 16”-20”. The goal of this exercise is number of reps, not to get as tall as possible.

5. SQUATS Why it works: In case you haven’t figured it out by now, strong legs, back, core, stability, and cardio-respiratory endurance are the most important things you will need for a hunt in the mountains. Squats are one of the best exercises to help strengthen and improve all of these.

How to do it: Contrary to what you may think, you don’t need a squat rack with a bunch of bumpers to get a good squat workout. Start with just bodyweight, feet shoulder-width apart (or slightly wider), and really focus on form. Work to get your upper leg at least parallel to the floor at the bottom of the squat. Do as many reps as you can and several sets. Slowly work up to adding a backpack with weight or a sandbag, either on your shoulders or held between your legs in front of you in what is called a “sumo squat.”

Common form mistakes: Leaning forward at the waist as you lower into a squat will put strain on your lower back and cause you to be out of balance. Keeping your upper body upright is most important during this exercise. Not going low enough in the squat will also not give the full benefit this exercise is intended to provide.

CONCLUSION Starting your routine now, even with low reps and bodyweight, will begin to pay dividends in a relatively short time...

36 | Hunting & Fishing News

Longevity - Durability goes hand-in-hand with longevity.

As evidenced by my 7-year-old pair of boots that are still going strong, Kenetrek boots are built for the long haul.

As mentioned above, it’s important to take care of a full-grain leather boot. Keep them clean and wax them regularly. In doing so, they will last and perform for many years – an investment that pays for itself over and over.

When those Mountain Boots are finally wearing thin on the sole, Kenetrek even offers a resole package to revive them.

For a reasonable cost, they will totally replace the outsoles, make any minor repairs needed, and even include new performance insoles and laces. Revive those boots and keep them going.

Comfort - As hunters, we get to explore some of the most rugged and beautiful places on earth. You’ll find yourself in places that are steep, rocky, thick, swampy, cold, snowy, windy or any combination. Your footwear is one of the most important things you’ll bring on any hunt. In tough conditions, solid footwear means staying in the field – which means a greater chance at success.

One of the things we appreciate about Kenetrek boots is their solid feel. This is in part thanks to the 7mm nylon midsole. On flat ground, they might feel stiff and even a bit awkward – especially if you’re not used to wearing tall mountain boots. But when you’re climbing up boulders or side-hilling a steep canyon wall, that stiffness provides a solid foundation for your feet and ankles.

Kenetrek Mountain boots also employ a waterproof, breathable membrane that will keep your feet dry and comfortable in any conditions. The Windtex membrane will block wind and moisture from the outside. And it’s breathability allows moisture from your feet to escape.

Just make sure you’re using a high quality merino wool or merino-synthetic blend sock. Avoid cotton at all costs.

Great boots won’t function as they should if you’re wearing a sub-par sock underneath.

Protection - When you find yourself on a multi-day hunt

in rugged terrain, protecting your feet from rocks, deadfall, wind, rain, snow and other elements is essential. A foot issue can end a hunt in a hurry. Having a waterproof, windproof boot that you can trust is essential.

The first time you put on a pair of Kenetrek Mountain Boots, they may feel stiff – and they ought to; because after several days of hard hunting, you need a boot that can stand up to the challenge. After all, these aren’t meant to be your cozy house shoes. They are Mountain Boots. And that’s exactly where they shine.

Contact Us With Questions You can check out our recommended Kenetrek products here https://www.caribougear.com/collections/kenetrek-boots – including boots, socks and Kenetrek Boot Wax. If you have questions or if you need help selecting the right items for your next hunt, we’re here to help! Visit our website at www.caribougear.com for our contact information.

Lessons Learned And How I Killed The Biggest Buck Of My Life (continued from page 19)

Using trail cameras has worked well for me and they certainly did in this case. The use of trail cameras has been a hot topic as of late, and I’m not going to do a deep dive into whether they are ethical or not here, because I believe it’s a personal value judgment.

I will say that I have used them in a way I feel is ethical and they have been paramount in helping me find a trophy buck. In this case, I used traditional trail cameras and was fortunate enough to get images of the buck I killed. A trail camera let me know that this buck was in this area. If the state you are hunting allows the use of trail cameras, I suggest using them. Use them legally, use them in a manner that is not disruptive to the animal or to other hunters scouting the area. For me, I have five cameras and I put them out from the months of May-July. By the tail end of July, both mule deer and elk will be almost completely finished with antler development and I know all I need to, if I get a trail camera picture in July. I spend my mornings glassing and check cameras mid-day. I do this to get the most out of my time in the field and to hopefully reduce the chance of bumping and moving animals.

To conclude, I believe the best methods to find a trophy caliber buck or bull is to network, e-scout, find the glassing points and glass at every opportunity, and use trail cameras if you can.

KEYS TO KILLING As I previously stated I never saw this buck through my binoculars during my summer scouting efforts. I did get two days where there were trail camera pictures at the tail end of July. The permit I had was a general season dedicated hunter permit, which allowed me to archery hunt, muzzleloader hunt, and rifle hunt until I harvested a buck. During the bow hunt, which ran from August to September, I hunted 16 days. I backpack hunted 3 to 5 days at a time in the same area and saw the buck one time at last light. In addition, I also saw another buck I had never seen nor had trail camera pictures of that was as big and potentially bigger than my target buck. During the bowhunt I did not attempt one stalk.

There were many days when I saw no deer at all.

38 | Hunting & Fishing News

I did not give up nor did I consider moving areas.

I analyzed the landscape looking for anything that I may have missed. I tried multiple glassing spots, most being just yards apart in order to offer a slightly different angle of view.

I killed my buck on opening day of the muzzleloader hunt which was in the tail end of September and along with the factors above there were a few others I would note.

One, the day before opening day there was a significant storm that went through the area and lasted over 24 hours. It started with really windy conditions then rain and wind. As the storm moved out on opening day, the morning and mid day were still very windy. Mule deer and elk generally hate the wind, it’s loud and blows scent around. Animals primarily use their nose and hearing to avoid predators and I’m quite certain that the weather conditions kept my buck bedded in dense cover for an extended amount of time. During windy conditions deer and elk will seek out the canyon bottoms or leeward portions of the slope. Knowing these factors, the evening of opening day I dropped elevation and set up on a glassing point that I had previously found, giving me views up one drainage and down another running to the south.

I could not see nearly as much as I could from a higher location, but I could see the bottom of the canyons and the lower ⅓ of each slope. I worked on the assumption that the buck would be lower in the canyon out of the wind and that he may get up earlier to feed due to him having been in cover bedded for so long with the storm. I also felt like being closer to the bottom would put me closer to the buck for a stalk should I actually see him. Approximately 2 hours before dark I saw a small buck, a doe and my target buck feed through a clearing a quarter mile up the canyon from me. I instantly checked the wind and without hesitation dove off into the canyon to close the distance. I used the topography, wind, and gained a small amount of elevation to put me in a spot where I thought the deer may feed. An hour before dark he fed out below me at 82 yards and I killed him with one shot. He is still my best buck.

To conclude, I’ll reiterate the factors I believe that helped me.

1.) glass, glass more, move slightly and glass some more.

2.) have an understanding of where deer may be as it relates to environmental factors, time of day, cover, water, and feed.

3.) hunting the backside of a storm may cause a mostly nocturnal trophy buck to get up and feed during daylight hours when they may not otherwise.

4.) be aggressive, don’t over analyze an opportunity to the point you freeze, be smart about your approach, but above all….GO!

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