Western Hunting & Fishing News August 2022 Issue

HUNTING & F ISHING NEWS

AUGUST 2022

The Key To Successful Shooting...

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8 Packing Tips For High Country Mule Deer & Early Archery Elk

By Caribou Gear Outdoor Equipment Company www.caribougear.com here’s something special about being at timberline at the T end of August or early September. Here in Colorado, timberline is usually between 10,000 and 12,000 feet.

Perched on a lofty ridge and surrounded by rocky peaks, there’s nothing like spotting a big mule deer buck or hearing the bugle of an elk in one of these high alpine basins.

Hunting these high lonesome places is breathtaking (literally). The first challenge is often just getting there.

There’s a fine balance between being prepared and keeping your pack light. You need to be ready for what the mountain will throw at you, but every ounce is an ounce you’ll curse before the hunt is over.

As you pack for your next high country mule deer hunt, or early season archery elk hunt, here are a few tips to consider:

1. Start With Good Boots

Additionally, be aware that the best boots in the world won’t function properly if you’re wearing cotton socks underneath.

In fact, that goes for the rest of your base layer clothing too.

Get a quality pair of synthetic or merino wool blend socks, like the ones from Kenetrek, that help move moisture away from your feet.

When it comes to your feet, don’t make compromises.

We’ve seen failed boots end hunts early. This is an all too common mistake. Don’t let it be you.

2. Cut Weight With Dual-Purpose Items Whenever possible, pack items that serve more than one purpose to cut down on weight. For example, a lightweight and packable down jacket provides warmth while you’re glassing on a windy ridge. But it can also add warmth to your sleep system. With this in mind, you could carry a lighter sleeping bag with a higher temperature rating than you otherwise would.

Likewise, look for other ways to use items for multiple purposes. Make a few wraps of duct tape around your water bottle, and electrical tape around your lighter. Bring one tripod that you can use for a shooting rest, spotting scope, binoculars and camera.

If there’s an item in your pack that only serves a marginal purpose – ask yourself how badly you really need it. Because when you’re climbing for a steep ridge above timberline, you’ll feel every single ounce. (continued on page 28)

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A mountain hunt should begin with good boots. If you’re backpacking into the high country, a quality pair of boots is mandatory. Even if you’re setting a base camp at your vehicle and doing day hunts, you should still plan to invest in a great pair of mountain boots.

We can’t say enough about Kenetrek boots. I have a pair of Mountain Extremes (non-insulated) that are going on their eighth season in 2022. They are supportive and have protected my feet in rugged terrain from Alaska to Arizona.

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Antelope can be very wary approaching a watering hole. If you find a water source where antelope funnel through a chokepoint, like a downed fence line, consider setting up along their route of passage where they’re more relaxed instead of sitting right on the water source itself.

Pro Tip: Setup your blind a few days before you plan to hunt so they get used to the sight.

Using the Antelope Buck & Doe Combo can help you create an ideal antelope hunting setup throughout the season. All photos courtesy Montana Decoy www.montanadecoy.com

5 Ideal Antelope Hunting Setups

By Montana Decoy www.montanadecoy.com

ntelope hunting is so fun. However, success statistics A can be misleading. While kill percentages often linger into the 90% range, it’s still far from

a guaranteed hunt. Mastering proper hunting techniques is critical in filling your tag. Using the right setup will help move the odds in your favor. Check out these five antelope hunting setups to get more horns in hand.

EARLY SEASON ANTELOPE HUNTING The earliest part of antelope seasons is almost always hot. Most states begin their first bow season around the middle of August when the summer mercury shows no mercy. Hydration is a premium asset in the drier habitats where antelope live.

When all else fails, taking an aggressive approach with a stalking shield can help you get in a better position.

While sitting in a ground blind near a watering hole isn’t always the most exciting form of hunting, it can be extremely productive for hunters with enough patience. Find one that has an abundance of fresh tracks and droppings. Learn the prevailing winds in your hunting area and put your blind on the downwind side of water. While smell isn’t an antelope’s primary source of defense, it can certainly be a factor as they come into bow range.

4 | Hunting & Fishing News

PRE-RUT During the pre-rut a few does are beginning to come into estrus. And it doesn’t take much to trigger anxious bucks who are preparing to stake out territory and build harems. While the need for water certainly doesn’t diminish and the previous tactic is still effective, hunters can also use love to their advantage.

Scouting and a little local knowledge can be very useful during the pre-rut. The prospect of does coming in estrus will cause bucks to begin ranging near and far to try to find does that are coming into an early cycle. They will also begin to mark their territory with scrapes and fresh droppings.

Locate areas with active scrapes and place a blind near a chokepoint. Gullies are frequently traveled during later seasons, but during the pre-rut bucks will travel higher on ridges and hills so they can spot other bucks attempting to move in on their harem.

Find where bucks are consistently traveling. Place the Antelope Buck & Doe combo (shown in photo above left) at the threshold where they will definitely be seen and give you a good shot should a buck commit.

This is when the waiting game begins and the use of extraordinary patience is key to success.

Pro Tip: Don’t be discouraged if you don’t see antelope around. If you find active sign, their wide-ranging behaviors during this season will bring them to that area again. If possible, place the decoys where they can be seen from long distances for those wide-ranging bucks who are out cruising.

PEAK RUT Peak rut antelope hunting is one of the most intense and exciting times of any hunting season. That being common knowledge, it can also be one of the busier times for both bow and muzzleloader hunters. Most archery hunters save both their tags and vacation time for this late-September part of the season – one more nod for the potential effectiveness of the Early Season and Pre-Rut tactics.

For those hunters that want to experience the rut in full force, the peak rut is prime time for using a decoy. While using a decoy like a shield on a stalk can be effective, it’s a high-risk option that can also spook a desired buck.

As an alternative, observe a herd of pronghorn from afar and wait for them to move into an area that has enough terrain and vegetation to attempt a stalk.

Sneak in close – ideally within 100 yards – and stake a buck decoy in view of the herd.

That distance should be enough of a threat for the dominant buck to charge into range looking for a fight.

Pro Tip: Use the buck and doe combo to simulate a doe that has slipped away from the herd and a buck that is trying to woo her away.

LATE-RUT As the rut progresses into rifle season, more and more does are bred and lose interest in bucks. As long as bucks can still locate the scent of does in estrus, their switch stays on. Though with fewer available suitors.

This is the perfect time to utilize a doe decoy. As bucks grow more and more desperate to prolong the mating season, does become the lure of choice – especially for younger bucks that have consistently tried and failed to develop their own harem.

Note: Only use a decoy during the rifle season if you are hunting on private land. Even then, do not set up near the decoy. Wear hunter orange.

Glass solitary bucks from afar and try to stalk within range. Then deploy the doe decoy to help coerce him to close the distance. Again, be very careful however if hunting during rifle season. Be sure to wear hunter orange and hunt only private land. Also place orange flagging tape on the backside of your decoy.

Pro Tip: Use two doe decoys instead of one to provide more visibility at longer ranges.

POST-RUT While the rut is not completely over, aggressive antelope behavior mostly ends. This is the time of year that the spot and stalk method really shines. Especially since it’s rifle season and gives you more range.

Hunt larger open areas where you can see a long distance. Let your optics (binoculars and spotting scopes) do the work until you find a buck. Don’t overlook smaller segments of land. By the start of rifle season, antelope become significantly more sensitive to hunting pressure and will gradually move to areas of lighter pressure. In many cases those sanctuaries are on private land or public land that borders private land.

Hunting private/public land borders can be very effective. While trespassing is obviously illegal, glassing private land is not. Glass private land bordering public land and determine which way antelope are moving.

Then beat them to the spot and set up where they cross on to public.

Pro Tip: Rather than solely driving roads, map high points that are close to the road and walk short distances to better vantage points.

Having the right setup can make all the difference.

And doing a little homework can help move the odds in your favor. While success numbers during antelope season are often high, it still takes a little grit and planning to find yourself on the right side of the statistic.

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Hunting & Fishing News | 5

Photo credit Roger Phillips/Idaho Fish and Game

Processing Wild Game: Beyond Burger, Five Options For Deer And Elk Meat

By Roger Phillips, Public Information Supervisor IDF&G https://idfg.idaho.gov

ven if you have your game processed by a butcher, E these are still options. We love deer and elk steaks, but you can only get so many off an animal. That means

lots of wild game meat is ground into burger, but there are other options that make tasty meals and snacks.

Many hunters have their big game animals processed by professional butchers. If that’s the case, chances are good you will end up with lots of ground meat.

Don’t worry, you can still use that meat for nearly everything below.

If you do your own butchering, you have more options.

And a quick note about processing the meat before it’s ground. Deer or elk burger has a reputation for having “gamey” flavor, which is usually not a compliment, but it can be just as tasty as steaks if you process it with a few things in mind.

Trim, then trim some more You want as much lean, red meat as possible. Trim as much membrane as you can, which is the white or silvery tissue that connects muscle.

Trim the fat, too. Without going into great detail, deer or elk fat is different that fat in beef or pork.

Usually deer and elk fat tastes bad. That isn’t a universally held opinion, and some people say it tastes fine. The flavor of fat is partially dependent on what the animal was eating, but you will rarely have better tasting meat if you don’t trim the fat.

The goal is to get as close as you can to pure, red meat going into the grinder or slow cooker.

Meat you plan to grind can be almost any size as long as it fits into your grinder, but chunks about an inch or two in diameter, or smaller, tend to grind more easily.

After you have your meat trimmed, you get to decide what to do with it.

6 | Hunting & Fishing News

Jerky If you’re going to make jerky, you want to thinly slice the larger chunks of meat into strips. The process then involves soaking slices in a brine and smoking or drying them. Drying can be done in a food dehydrator, smoker, or even your oven at its lowest setting with the door open ajar.

There are many jerky recipes available in cook books and on the Internet. Remember when making jerky the pieces should be dry, but still supple. Too dry and it will be brittle and crunchy, which is overcooked. Although jerking is a method of preserving, it’s still best to store it in the refrigerator or freezer.

Slow cooking This is a good way to prepare a large batch of meat that you can freeze and use for future meals, such as tacos, burritos, casseroles and others.

It’s also good for extra-tough cuts of meat, such as shanks (the lower leg muscles). Cut the meat into roughly even-sized chunks so they will take about the same duration to cook.

This meat also works well for stew, chili and soups and other slow-cook recipes.

Patty sausage If you have lots of ground meat from your butcher, making patty sausage is still an option, and it’s simple to do. All you have to do is thaw the meat and mix in seasoning. You also may want to add ground pork to increase the fat content, which will hold it together for cooking and make it juicier.

You can make breakfast sausage or Italian-style sausage that tastes great when mixed with spaghetti sauce and other dishes, depending on what spices and seasoning you use.

If you’re grinding sausage from scratch, plan to add between 10 percent to 50 percent pork to your venison, depending on your taste. Use inexpensive cuts of pork, which gives it a milder flavor, and also gives you more sausage.

Summer sausage This sausage is a little trickier because you have to stuff the meat into sausage casings, but you can also form the meat into logs by wrapping them in plastic wrap, twisting the ends tight and smoothing out the log before slowly unwrapping to keep the shape even.

After grinding a mixture of venison and pork and stuffing the casing or making logs, you smoke the sausages or logs at low temperature for several hours.

These make fantastic appetizers, and you can freeze them for later use.

Pepperoni sticks These are tasty and great pocket snacks for your next hunting or fishing trip. They’re a little more work because making them requires mixing the spices and also stuffing them into long, narrow casings, but it’s nothing you can’t handle. You can find the casings at specialty stores, sporting goods stores or online, as well as whole kits for making pepperoni sticks. If it’s too much of a hassle, many meat processors will make it for you

(continued on page 38)

Tips From Siberian Coolers To Keep Your Cooler Cold Longer For Your Next Hunt

By Siberian Coolers www.siberiancoolers.com

eeping your food and the meat you harvest cool on a K hunt is critical. “We have used Siberian Coolers for the past 5 years and have been very pleased with their quality

and performance.” Rick Haggerty, Western Hunting & Fishing News.

Here are some of our recommendations for keeping your ice longer in your cooler(s).

1. Consider using a two cooler system. Use one cooler for your drinks, snacks, etc. and the other cooler for your meals and harvested game. Try not to get in and out of the cooler that has your meals and harvest. This will help to keep it cooler.

2. Pre-chill your cooler with sacrificial ice for a minimum of 12 hours. Dump the sacrificial ice out and refill with clear ice that is not wet. Pre-cool your beverages and food before placing them in the cooler.

3. Freeze plastic bottles of water. The frozen water will act as ice and will keep the other items in the cooler colder longer.

4. Pack items in your cooler in chronological order based on when you plan to use the items – pack items used first on top. Last in first out.

5. Pack the cooler tight and full. Less air, more ice.

6. When your trips are more than one or two days, use larger blocks of ice. They last longer.

7. Consider dry ice. Dry ice requires special care and handling, but will keep your food dry and your cooler contents colder. When using dry ice only, keep the drain plug open to allow dry ice gas to escape.

Photo courtesy Jana Waller www.skullboundchronicles.com

“I’ve been using Siberian coolers for many years and they’ve always been reliable. I often use them during long hunts or camping trips where I can count on the ice to last and my food to stay fresh. And I trust in Siberian Coolers when coming home from a hunting or fishing trip to protect my investment.”

Jana Waller, Skull Bound Chronicles 8. Always latch the cooler’s lid shut tightly.

9. Do not drain the water from the cooler – the cold water from melted ice helps keep the items inside colder longer.

10. Ice Temperatures Vary Significantly: Not all ice is created equal. In fact, in terms of keeping your Siberian Cooler colder for longer, the ice that comes out of your refrigerator door might not be your best option. Warm ice (around 32F) is typically wet or dripping, and won’t last long.

11. Try to keep your cooler in the shade as much as possible, otherwise cover it using a space blanket or reflective foil.

Hunting & Fishing News | 7

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Thinking Outside The Box On A Bowhunt

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rom the start of when you pick up a bow and head into the field, I am a firm believer that we are conditioned to adhere F to a certain set of rules. Whether it’s rules set in place by a mentor, or rules set in place by consuming the various forms of content out there. These hard learned lessons from experienced bowhunters are ones that mean well. They can be anything from keeping the wind in your face to always coming from above when stalking an animal. When someone writes an article or gives advice it is 100% with good intention.

However, because bowhunting is such a difficult task, I’m also a firm believer that some of these rules can cause us to not think beyond them. They act as a boundary of sorts set in place for us to avoid failure at all costs. And that is something that will limit our potential in the field. Just because “so and so” does things a certain way, doesn’t mean you have to. Rules are made to be broken.

YOU DON’T HAVE TO COME FROM ABOVE… Traditionally, when it comes to stalking an animal, coming in from above gets the most press. For good reason too.

Most of the time animals tend to bed facing downhill, which means if you were to come from above, the animal would be facing away from your approach. And with rising thermals most of the day, you’re not as likely to get winded when above an animal until they switch at least. Not to mention that being above puts the view advantage in the hunter’s favor. Coming in from above works, yes. It’s not the only option though.

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The entire contents is © 2022, all rights reserved. May not be reproduced without prior consent.

The material and information printed is from various sources from which there can be no warranty or responsibility by Big Sky Outdoor News & Adventure, Inc. Nor does this material necessarily express the views of Big Sky Outdoor News & Adventure, Inc. All photo & editorial submissions become the property of Big Sky Outdoor News & Adventure, Inc. to use or not use at their discretion. Volume 19 Issue 8 Cover Photo: Bitter Buffalo Photo | Shutterstock.com Thanks to the eagle eye of reader Aaron Roberts who pointed out an error in the article in July “Quick Tips For Field Judging Antelope.”

The minimum score for Record Books for Boone and Crockett entries is 80.

We reached out to the Boone and Crockett Club and this was their reply: “The minimum for pronghorn in the early days was indeed 70 points.

It was increased to 80 points in 1963 and remains there today.”

8 | Hunting & Fishing News

A very well accomplished bowhunter gave me some advice early on. We were chatting about thermals and moving in on critters. One of his tactics was to not even worry about thermals and come in sidehill on the same elevation as the animal. Doing so eliminates the chance of thermals busting you.

Of course, you still need to have a good directional wind, but the fact remains. This method usually provides a good deal of cover as well to hide an approach. Remember: the animal might not be looking directly away from you going this route. Coming in sidehill would be a much better option for an evening stalk than coming from above. I’ve been the guy sitting above a bedded deer in the evening only to have the thermals switch on me and send the deer bounding away.

Sidehill would have killed him.

BEING AGGRESSIVE When I first picked up a bow and even considered bowhunting, I remember seriously thinking about how impossible this all sounded. Getting into range of an animal and putting an arrow through one sounded like something that would only happen to the luckiest of folks. It was a paranoia really and one that carried right into my adult life. I’d often not go after animals because I was afraid of getting caught. I’d sit back and conjure up all of the things that might go wrong and they’d add up, leaving me sitting there wondering what could have been. Bowhunting might sound like walking on eggshells — and there are times that it is — but it’s not always about being timid.

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The timid tendencies would continue until a veteran bowhunter divulged a secret to me. He said, “Josh, I just go right at them.”

There was no overthinking and no fear of those eggshells.

The guy would grab the wind and start getting close.

His endless Kodak photos of him kneeling behind critters was proof that being aggressive had its advantages.

Since that conversation, my opportunities behind a bow have gone up significantly. I’m not saying being meticulous doesn’t pay off. I am saying that there is a time and a place for it though. Don’t be afraid to just try to close the distance from the get go. You’ll likely learn something.

MAKING THE LONG SHOT

Bowhunting has always been about getting close and there really is nothing like it. Being a stone throw away from a big buck is a heart pounding experience that’ll leave you crawling back for more time and time again. All of that said, sometimes getting close is not the best approach. Animals are more likely to jump strings and are much more likely to be on edge, which has a tendency to put us on edge.

(continued on page 38)

Hunting & Fishing News | 9

Layering Tips Part 1: Early Season Hunts

By Ryan McSparran Caribou Outdoor Equipment Company www.caribougear.com All photos courtesy Caribou Gear www.caribougear

ho’s ready to start preparing for the fall big game hunts?!

W We are already chomping at the bit. If the hunting seasons seem a ways off, don’t worry. There is plenty to do between now and then. One of the first things on our list is do define our clothing and layering systems.

Why plan out your layering systems well in advance of the season? There are several reasons to get started as soon as possible. First and foremost is availability. The later you wait into the summer, the greater likelihood there is of items being out of stock.

The second big reason is functionality. From your face mask to your boots, it helps to get into your clothing systems now. If there are any issues with fit or functionality, it’s better to discover those sooner rather than later.

Over the summer months, spend time hiking and shooting your bow or rifle while wearing your layering system.

Make sure nothing interferes with your draw or movement in any way.

10 | Hunting & Fishing News

Keep in mind, there are many ways to approach layering...

Here are a few of our ideas and how we like to tackle the process. In this article, we’ll start with early season layering...

Layering for Early Season Hunts Here in our home state of Colorado, and throughout the mountain west, early season hunts can present some of the strangest weather. Mild temperatures can often be expected, but there are no guarantees. The higher you go in elevation, the greater the possibility for wild temperature swings. I’ve had archery elk hunts with highs near 80.

But I’ve also been snowed on in early September on more than one occasion. In fact, one specific archery elk hunt stands out. In 2013 we were hunting the second week in September – in that one week, we were snowed on twice!

All that to say, it can be difficult to plan a layering system for those early season hunts. As you get started, here are a few ideas to keep in mind…

Pack Lightweight Base Layers

Mid Layers: Synthetic Fleece & Quality Down

When it comes to your base layers, keep it light. Even though temperatures can get cold early in the season – especially at high elevations – a lightweight base layer will be much more versatile than heavy, thermal long underwear.

During those early season hunts, your mid-layers give you that ultimate versatility between cold mornings and hot afternoons. Or in some cases, 70-degrees one day and snow the next! If I had to bring just two mid-layer items on an early season hunt in the high country, I’d bring a synthetic fleece jacket or pullover, and an ultralight puffy jacket filled with quality goose down. Here’s why…

Both of these items offer a very high warmth-to-weight ratio. They also serve very different purposes, allowing me to mix and match depending on the conditions.

If you’re hunting out of the truck and you can bring both – great. But even so, a lightweight set of long johns will work in a much wider range of temperatures, from the cold early mornings to the mild afternoons. If you get that early season snowstorm and you need some more insulation, come prepared with a versatile mid-layer (we’ll get to that next). But going with a lighter-weight set of base layers will keep your overall system lighter and more compact, which is great for those archery hunts when you’re on the move.

When it comes to base layer materials, merino wool, synthetics, or a merino-synthetic blend will all work.

A synthetic fleece jacket or pullover is very warm for its weight, but it’s also highly breathable. It has no wind resistance, but that’s ok. In fact, that breathability is exactly what I want. If I need wind resistance, I’ll add either the puffy or my rain shell (more on those below). A lightweight fleece layer is perfect when conditions are chilly but you’re on the move chasing bugling bulls. Later in the season when conditions are more extreme, I might trade this fleece for a heavier soft-shell jacket. But in September, I’ll take the versatility.

Next, an ultralight puffy down jacket filled with quality goose down weighs next to nothing, and it packs down extremely small when not in use. Yet, it offers a ton of warmth.

Down jackets usually have a nylon face, which means they’re not very breathable. That gives them some wind resistance – and you probably can’t hike around in one for very long before you work up a sweat.

(continued on page 22)

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Trolling For Lake Trout Montana Fish, Wildlife & Parks https://fwp.mt.gov

trout (or mackinaw) are primarily fish eaters...Generally L100’ake fish 30’-100’ deep for smaller (2-5 lb.) lakers and over deep for larger lake trout...look for areas that will concentrate bait fish such as points, sloping areas of large rubble, or flats adjacent to drop-offs or steep slopes.

Here are some tips for trolling to catch lake trout.

A. Flatlining - You can readily catch lake trout by trolling lures near the surface in April-June and October-November.

Troll 3/8 oz. or larger spoons such as Krocodiles in silver/ red or gold/red or minnow-imitation plugs such as Rebels or Rapalas in black/silver, black/gold or fluorescent orange.

You can also troll plugs that will dive to 10’-20’. Drop the lure 100’-200’ behind the boat and troll parallel to the shore 50-100 yards out in 30’-200’ of water. Steeper shorelines such as most of the east shore, Conrad Point to Painted Rocks, Wildhorse Island and around the Narrows are good spots.

Concentrate on spawning areas in the fall (points with rock or cobble) such as major points, Wildhorse Island, or around the Narrows.

B. Lead-Core - Lead-core outfits such as those used for kokanee can also be used on lake trout down to 50’ deep or more.

Fish the same lures and locations as flatlining with 3-8 colors out.

This is particularly good as lakers move deeper in summer.

C. Diving Planers and 3-way Rigs - Diving Planers are tied inline 4-6 feet ahead of the lure. They can dive 30-50 feet but will trip when a fish hits to allow a better fight. An angler can also tie up a rig with a 3-way swivel. The mainline ties to one swivel with a 4’-6’ leader off the opposite swivel to a lure. Tie a short leader off the bottom swivel to a banana sinker (2-12 oz.). Depending on the line, speed, lure, and sinker weight you can fish down to 100 feet or more.

D. Downriggers - Downriggers will cost $100-$500 but they allow you to fish at precise depths and into very deep water. They also allow you to fish with fairly light gear since the line releases from the heavy downrigger cable and ball when a fish hits. Used with a good fish finder you can target concentrations of fish and prime locations and precisely place your lure. The most common downrigger lure is a squid and dodger or flasher although a variety of lures can be used. Generally, place the squid 2 1/2 dodger lengths behind the dodger and drop the lures 10-50 feet behind the downrigger release. Use an 8” or larger dodger. Silver and chartreuse are popular dodger colors and white, chartreuse, blue, and glow are popular squid colors. Scent or a piece of cut fish on the squid can help. Generally fish near the bottom but don’t be afraid to fish mid depths, particularly near the thermocline (40’-60’) in summer, or wherever you see the fish on the finder. If you’re not catching fish vary the boat speed and vary the distance back from the downrigger release.

E. Steel Line - This method requires a heavier rod with a roller tip, and a large reel such as a Penn 49L with 1,000 feet or more of single strand or braided steel line in 20-40 lb. test. With this method you drag a lure (usually a Flatfish or Kwikfish) along the bottom. It takes 800 feet or more of line to reach bottom in 100 feet of water. This used to be the main method to fish for lake trout and its still one of the best ways to catch big trout but it’s physically demanding and requires some expertise. T-50 Flatfish are the most popular although the smaller M-2’s also work. Popular colors are blue/ white, red/white, perch finish, or frog. Use similar sizes and colors in Kwikfish. To work, the lure has to be skipping on the bottom. Expect to hang up occasionally. These heavy rigs don’t give fish under 10 pounds much chance to fight.

Usually look for mud/sand/small cobble bottom flats near slope changes or points. The Mid-lake Bar from Angel Point to Cedar Island, Mac Alley south of Wildhorse, and flats near any major points can be good spots.

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(Fridays - Sundays only) 32 lottery drawings-$2,000-$400=$28,600 and $4,500-$500 to $50 for merchandise prizes Top twenty angler prizes $950-$200=$10,800 Captains-$250-(4 prizes),Smallest lake trout $250-(2 prizes), Largest lake trout $500 Top lady anglers-$300,$200,$100. $100-by total fish entered Youth-(17-13) 1st- $200,2nd $150, 3rd $75,4-5th $50 (12 & under)1st-$100, 2nd $75, 3rd $50 Fri-Sun.Weekend Prizes-4 @$100 & 1 @$200 per weekend Golden Angler Award-(70 & older)-$300, $200, $100, 2@$50 determined by total fish entered Bucket Days-3 days of single/team-heaviest 4-fish-10/1-Friday, 10/16-Saturday & 11/7-Sunday SIBERIAN COOLERS-2 drawings-1ticket for every ten entries Fri-Sun Prizes and rules listed on the website www.mackdays.com BONUSES: ALL ANGLERS WHO ENTER 11 or more LAKE TROUT entries EARN BONUS DOLLARS The higher your total - the higher your bonus-every day counts: Mon-Sun (60 days) Bonus amounts are listed in the rules page on the website-subject to change Check the rules, prizes, check in sites, & register online at

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Telephone 406-883-2888 Ex. 7294 or 406-270-3386 Applications will be available: Zimmers Tackle-Pablo, Westland Seed & Sports-Ronan, Walmart-Polson, Sportsman’s Warehouse-Missoula, FWP-Missoula and Kalispell, Sportsman & Ski Haus-Kalispell, Bretz RV & Marine-Missoula, Bob Ward & Sons-Missoula, Snappys Sports Senter-Kalispell, CSKT NRD Offices-Polson All boats from out of the Flathead area must be inspected for AIS.

Special permits available for the south half of Flathead Lake available wherever fishing permits are sold.

Photos courtesy Northland Fishing Tackle www.northlandtackle.com

Weedless Fire-Ball Jig (Glo Watermelon)

Pry Walleyes, Perch, And Panfish From The Weeds Northland Fishing Tackle www.northlandtackle.com

ou’d better be hot if you’re going to be called “Fire-Ball,” Y and that’s exactly how a new jig – now available – from Northland is coming across. Meet the Weedless Fire-Ball and Weedless Stand-Up Fire-Ball Jigs, specialized versions of the perennial favorite Fire-Ball Jig that solve the problem of delivering bait in the weeds without fouling.

Fire-Ball fans will instantly recognize the unique shape of these round and stand-up style jigs, which are patterned after the all-time money-winning lure on the PWT® and FLW® Pro Walleye Tours. Anglers will also quickly realize the fish-catching implications of a small addition – a double wire titanium weed guard arising from behind the line tie that allows these new upstarts to squirt through emerging spring and thickening summer weeds with ease. Unlike steel and plastic weed guards, Northland’s titanium version keeps its shape and better bounces off timber, too.

Weedless Stand-Up Fire-Ball (Firetiger)

“We knew the Weedless Fire-Ball Jigs would take us to the next level when live bait fishing in heavy vegetation,” said Charlie Peterson, marketing coordinator for Northland Tackle. “So, we decided to put them to the test – and they passed with flying colors.”

Indeed, they did, as Charlie and his cousin, Jace Peterson, took top prize in the Knights of Columbus Walleye Tournament on Lake Bemidji, earlier this month. “We always scored well using the original and Stand-Up Fire-Ball Jigs in weedy areas because they come through the salad pretty well,” he explained, “but once we got hold of these new weedless versions, we were able to present baits into even thicker cabbage and reach schools of fish in 6- to 12-foot depths that we might not have challenged before. The new Weedless Fire-Ball Jigs played a crucial role in our success.”

For those who have long recognized the catching power of traditional Fire-Ball Jigs, fear not. The new weedless versions carry all the features you’ve come to depend on when targeting walleyes, sauger, perch and other predators.

14 | Hunting & Fishing News

Their short-shank Fire-Ball design produces a compact live bait presentation that’s ideal for vertical jigging with a minnow, leech, or half a nightcrawler, while a Trailer Hitch at the base of the jig head allows easy attachment of a Northland Sting’r hook to stick short strikers.

“A smooth and gentle retrieve works best for pulling these jigs through weeds,” advised Peterson. “Rig up with a shiner or other baitfish, toss it out and glide it smoothly back through vegetation with your rod tip held high.

You’ll feel it coming through the stalks, banging lightly off them before triggering strikes as it enters small, clear spaces. It reminds me of fishing artificial worms for bass in terms of the take and hookset. You want to stick them, but not overly hard. And hesitate just a second before setting the hook. I’ve been using the 1/8-ounce size in Glow Watermelon and Fire Tiger patterns on 6-lb. fluorocarbon line.”

Weedless Fire-Ball Jig (Super Glo Chartreuse)

Weedless Fire-Ball Jig (UV Pink Tiger) Weedless Fire-Ball Jig (Parakeet)

(continued on page 17)

Hunting & Fishing News | 15

Throw Shadow Rap® Shad Jerkbaits All Summer For Multi-Species Success Rapala www.blog.rapala.com

on’t leave your jerkbait box at home in the summer, D stock it with Shadow Rap® Shads and keep it handy. These brilliant Rapala® jerkbaits are built

for year-round service, not just in cold water.

And not just for bass. All the most prized predator will fish fall for it.“It’s a really killer warm-weather jerkbait,” says Bassmaster Elite Pro Seth Feider.

“I throw it a lot after the spawn, through the summer and up through early fall.”Similar to the original Shadow Rap, the Shadow Rap Shad is taller in profile but not as long. “It looks more like a shad or bluegill than a typical jerkbait,” Feider says.

And rather than slowly sinking on the pause — as does the original Shadow Rap — a Shadow Rap Shad slowly rises when stalled, slightly wobbling.

That’s one of the reasons it’s so effective throughout the summer, especially in Feider’s home waters of Minnesota and other natural lakes across the Upper Midwest, where bluegill are a main forage for all gamefish in the summer.“A slow-rising bluegill is a target for a meal,” Feider says. “And a Shadow Rap Shad looks just like one after you pause it and it starts slowly rising. Floating up is a trigger for the more aggressive fish in warmer weather.”

Bassmaster Elite Pro Mike Iaconelli agrees.

“Most critical of all is that head-up, slow rise position on the pause,” he says. “When there’s a perch, or a pike, or a walleye, or a bass down there, and it sees that, it can’t help itself, it has to eat. And you’re going to catch that fish.”

Shadow Rap Shads trigger fish also with erratic action when jerked, a subtle shimmy when rising, and drastic flash when snapped back to life. “Those things really make it attractive to all types of predator fish, not just bass,” says Bassmaster Elite Pro Ott DeFoe. “Fish are opportunistic feeders and they’re going to look for a baitfish that’s struggling – something that’s got a little difference to it than all the other shad out there in that school.”Shadow Rap Shads come in models that target two different depth ranges — three to four feet and five to six feet.

https://youtu.be/qRF8sRBQLTQ

The latter is called the Shadow Rap Shad Deep.

Both models come armed with three No. 6 VMC black-nickel, round-bend hooks and are available in 24 color patterns. Each measures 4 3/8 inches and weighs 7/16 of an ounce.“Anglers of all levels should add the Shadow Rap Shad to their arsenals,” DeFoe says. “With the action that this bait has for a jerkbait, it’s something that we’ve not seen before. And it’s something that’s going to catch fish when no other jerkbait will.”

Stock Up on Original Shadow Raps Stock up now on original Shadow Rap®s to throw when temperatures drop. “These are my cold-water jerkbaits,” Feider says. “I’m going to fish them a lot slower than I do the Shadow Rap Shad and late in the fall and early spring.” While more of a traditional jerkbait than the Shadow Rap Shad – in that it doesn’t rise on the pause – the original Shadow Rap is unique in its class. Shadow Raps will dart side to side and – with a sharp jerk – spin around almost 180 degrees. And on the pause, Shadow Raps combine a horizontal struggle with a vertical fade, perfectly mimicking a dying minnow’s movements.“It’s perfect — it’s exactly what I want,” Iaconelli says. “I want that bait to have to have these little tiny movements — little tiny flashes and rolls. Then, on the pause, I want it to just barely lurking out — just barely going down.”Original Shadow Raps are designed to target bass and other gamefish in two to four feet of water.

To catch fish in four to eight feet, there’s a deeperrunning model, the Shadow Rap Deep. Both models come armed with three No. 6 VMC black-nickel, round-bend hooks and are available in 24 color patterns. Each measures 4 3/8 inches and weighs 7/16 of an ounce.

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Pry Walleyes, Perch, And Panfish From The Weeds (continued from page 15)

Northland’s Weedless Fire-Ball and Stand-Up Fire-Ball come packaged two per card in 1/8- and ¼-ounce sizes. They retail for $4.99 and are available in eight contemporary colors: Parakeet, Sunrise, Glow Watermelon, Firetiger, Super-Glo Chartreuse, Super-Glo Lumi, UV Pink Tiger and UV Purple Tiger.

Pick up a couple, head for the vegetation, and be the weedless wizard.

Weedless Stand-Up Fire-Ball Jig (UV Purple Tiger)

Weedless Fire-Ball Jig® Features: • Double-wire weed guard • Attach Sting’r hook to nip short-striking nibblers • Familiar short-shank Fire-Ball design for compact live-bait presentation • Choice of round or stand-up jig styles • Ideal for vertical jigging with a minnow, leech or half a nightcrawler

Watch this video - Charlie & Jace Peterson break down how they utilize these new jigs.

Weed Walleye on NEW Bait – Petersons’ Tourney Winning Deets https://youtu.be/-8UQZ85oSA0

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Tips For Chasing Whitetails In The West

By Jake Horton Originally published at

Photo credit schlag|depositphotos.com

GOHUNT.com

hough whitetails are not often on a western hunter’s T mind, they should be because they are out West in good numbers and are fun to hunt. Whitetail hunting is a different

style of hunting compared to a lot of western hunting.

One of the biggest reasons is that, generally, a whitetail hunter does not need to be in tip top shape to be successful. In fact, besides scouting and understanding whitetail behavior, one of the most important skills a successful whitetail hunter can learn is how to patiently wait in a good spot until there is an opportunity at a mature buck.

Here are a few tips and strategies that will help you be more successful when chasing whitetails around farmland and river bottoms out West.

SCOUTING When it comes to whitetail hunting, scouting is key to success during your five- to ten-day hunt. Understanding which fields are holding bucks, when they are arriving to feed and heading to bed and where they are entering and exiting agriculture is the information you must obtain quickly.

To gain this information, you have to research, which might involve taking a day to drive around at first or last light, hanging trail cameras during late summer or talking to some locals or landowners who are familiar with the deer patterns. After you have gained this information from afar, it is then time to hang a stand or set up a blind mid-day when the bucks are in their bedding areas. Always think about the wind direction and have multiple setups for multiple different wind directions. Whitetails are wary creatures that trust their nose more than anything so only hunting a spot when the wind is right will be crucial.

SPOT SELECTION When it comes to picking spots to set up your treestand or blind, for the early season, it is important to concentrate on the travel corridor between feed and bedding. These corridors provide an excellent ambush spot without invading the deers’ feeding or bedding space and affecting their patterns. As the rut starts, a buck will start to make scrape lines near their travel corridors. These are always a great place to set up as bucks will move through to freshen them up and check them at any time throughout the day. Later on, when the rut is fully underway, I always concentrate on pinch points near areas of high deer activity. Bucks will be cruising and chasing does throughout the day. Whenever I select any spot, I always have to have a plan for an undetected entrance and exit or else I will not use it.

PAY ATTENTION Once you have some spots picked out and some stands hung or blinds set up, it is time to pick which days to hunt which stands. To do this, you must examine and understand your intended approach and know which spot you are going to sit for the morning or evening based upon the wind direction and your visibility.

Deer are nocturnal feeders so it does not make sense to cross the agriculture field on the way to your stand before sunlight. If you do this you will alert every deer of your presence and they will all flee, leaving your travel corridor hunt with little to no activity. It also wouldn’t be a good idea to walk past a known deer bedding area with your wind blowing directly into it — even if the wind in your stand is ideal. When selecting your spots, you need to plan and understand your entrance and exit routes and know under what conditions they will work. Also, plan to have your stand high enough or well-hidden enough that it can conceal your slight movements. Deer normally do not look up for predators; however, if you are skylined or moving in your blind, they will see motion and high tail it out of there.

Pay attention to these little details and the deer will feel less pressure and act in a patternable way for longer, allowing you to make adjustments as necessary. No matter how big the buck is, it is always a good idea to wait until conditions are as perfect as they can be before trying to hunt him.

This is especially crucial if you feel as though you have finally identified his pattern.

Whitetails can be a blast to hunt for hunters of every skill level and physical shape. If you have done some scouting, picked good spots, paid attention to the details and have some patience, you never know what could happen.

However, if you are used to hunting mule deer, it is important to note that whitetails behave a lot differently from mule deer. The biggest difference is that whitetails are very wary and skittish and do not give something off a second look.

This means every movement, wind direction change and sound maybe just enough to change a whitetail’s mind and send them in a different direction. Use these tips to help you plan your next whitetail hunt and get out West this fall.

You won’t regret it.

RESPECT • Land • Landowners • Wildlife

Pass it on.

To learn more visit fwp.mt.gov/passiton Hunting & Fishing News | 19

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The property is primarily forestland and grassy meadows.

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Layering Tips Part 1: Early Season Hunts (continued from page 11)

This is a great layer anytime you’re stationary, whether that’s glassing or just hanging out at camp at night.

If you’re sitting on a cold morning glassing, throw on that puffy and it will make a huge difference.

When you’re ready to move or as soon as the temps get warm, stuff it in your pack and you’ll hardly know it’s there.

Convective heat loss takes a major toll on your body temperature. It can be amazing the difference it makes having lightweight rain gear to stop the wind.

Plus, afternoon thunderstorms are a common occurrence early in the season. Whether it’s for rain or to serve as a wind-breaking layer, it’s worth bringing a set of lightweight rain gear on every early season hunt. Combined with your fleece, your puffy jacket or both, you can remain comfortable through a wide range of conditions.

Your rain gear is probably one of the most expensive pieces in your early season layering kit. Save up and get good ones. Lightweight, breathable rain gear that will last for many seasons isn’t cheap. But in terms of both pack weight and functionality, it makes a big difference.

Don’t Forget the Extremities Hats, gloves, socks, and boots are all other critical pieces to your early season layering kit. In fact, boots might be one of the most important purchases you make. We highly recommend Kenetrek boots for hunting in rugged mountain terrain. And don’t forget the importance of quality socks – the best boots in the world won’t function properly if you’re not wearing a quality sock underneath. Just like the rest of your base layers, look for quality synthetic or merino materials. Cotton has no place in the backcountry.

Gear For the Adventure As you gear up for the season ahead, check out the camping and hunting gear that we have in stock in the Caribou Gear store at www.caribougear.com.

If you have questions or need help finding the right items for your next adventure, please don’t hesitate to reach out. Caribou Gear is a family-owned company headquartered in Colorado. We certainly appreciate your business and we look forward to helping you prepare for that next big adventure!

Outer Layers: Lightweight Rain Gear Unless you’re hunting Alaska, British Columbia or the Pacific Northwest, the early season is not the time to bring your heavy-duty expedition weight rain gear.

Especially here in the central Rockies where rain gear spends most of the day in your backpack, a lightweight set of rain gear is the ticket. My early season rain jacket weighs about 12oz. and my pants with full side zippers weigh in at about 19oz. Even if there’s no precipitation in the forecast, these are always a part of my early season layering system. Here’s why…

Even on dry hunts, early mornings in the high country can be cold. When you find yourself sitting up on a windy ridge glassing first thing in the morning, throw on that rain shell and it will completely block the wind.

22 | Hunting & Fishing News

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Understanding that not all country is conducive to glassing, some mountains are too steep to climb and some drainages are way bigger than they appear from aerial imagery are common mistakes we all make. It took me a long time to be able to find spots that fit my style of hunting, which is typically spot and stalk. Some areas were too thick to glass, some side hills were too loud and rocky to stalk and, sometimes, we need to change up our plans.

Anytime we use days of our hunt to determine if a spot works for us only to say no are days we will never get back.

This year, while planning your hunt, try to understand prior to your arrival if it is the right fit for your physical fitness as well as your hunting style. If it isn’t, then you will struggle to find elk day after day and get discouraged along the way.

Photo credit Chris Neville

Where Are All The Elk At?

By Jake Horton Originally published at

GOHUNT.com

any times, it seems like we do our research, we find a M spot that looks great, only to arrive and struggle to find elk where we think they should be. We put on the miles

hiking to our preselected spotting, calling or listening points, looking at wallows picked out from the detailed satellite imagery that is provided on goHUNT Maps and, yet, we only find old sign and no elk. What is the difference between your elk hunting strategies and the guy back at the trailhead with antlers protruding from his truck bed? This is a complicated question to answer and it changes on a case-by-case basis; however, here are some common mistakes you might be making in the elk woods without evening knowing it.

THE GOOD SPOTS When examining aerial imagery and topographical maps on goHUNT’s mapping feature, there are times when an elk spot just pops out at you and you are positive there are going to be elk there. You’ll notice the north-facing timber, the open meadows, the stream or ponds that provide water and the bonus? It’s only two to three miles from the truck.

You are positive that this is where you are going to find elk bugling and chasing cows; however, in my experience, you are probably wrong. Don’t let me confuse you; you have found a perfect elk hunting spot and, in a perfect world with no pressure and no other elk hunters, a few 300” bulls would be packed in there. However, this is not a perfect world and you are not alone out there. The number one mistake that you are probably making is thinking like other elk hunters and assuming that you will be there first. What is happening is that other hunters are scouting or hunting that spot before you and pushing the elk out of that beautiful spot and into new basins. To combat this problem, I choose to plan an elk hunt as I normally would, then assume that a lot of other hunters are planning like me so I find spots that are more difficult, less appealing and, often, because of this, that is where I will find the elk.

TERRAIN AND COVER The second mistake that a lot of hunters make is not being realistic with the terrain and cover and whether it fits with their hunting style. Let me explain this better. As hunters, we like to think that we are ready for the experience and whatever the elk have in store for us; however, if you are new to elk hunting, you might be a little overwhelmed.

24 | Hunting & Fishing News

NOT PAYING ATTENTION Another common mistake newer hunters make is that you are not paying attention to the little details and the elk are finding you first. The first and probably most important detail that you are not paying attention to is the wind. The wind directions in the mountains are governed by a prevailing wind, undulating terrain and thermals. All of these variables make watching your wind direction in the mountain very difficult; however, it is your job to try your best. If you are stalking an elk and the wind switches, you need to switch your stalk if you want to be successful. If you are having trouble finding elk, but you are coming over the top of the drainage in the morning and your thermals are dropping into the basin, the elk know that you are there and won’t behave normally. You should be coming under the elk in the morning so the thermals are hitting you in your face. Another common mistake that hunters do not pay attention to is their profile. If you are hiking ridges, crossing open sage flats or calling from the open, there is always a chance that elk are on the lookout for danger, which means that they spot you well before you spot them. Use cover, creek bottoms, terrain breaks and whatever else you can find to mask your movements so elk do not flee before you see them.

HUNTING THE WRONG ELEVATION The reason you are not finding elk during the season is that you are not hunting the right elevation. Elk are peculiar animals that sometimes are okay with hanging out in a foot of snow and sometimes are not. Some years, they may drop in elevation in September and, other years, stay high until December. Understanding that there is no year that you can positively plan on elk doing what they did last year is important. Though there are common patterns that repeat yearly, there are a lot of factors that can change from year to year. Sometimes hunting pressure or other predators can push elk out of an area or elevation that they previously stayed in. This is why it is always suggested to start searching for elk at higher elevations and work your way down the mountain or start low and work your way up until you find fresh elk sign or elk.

Then, it is a safe bet to hunt different areas in the near vicinity on that elevation plane and you should find more elk or elk sign.

Every time we enter the elk woods our immediate goal is to find and harvest an elk. Yes, the experiences of being out in remote mountains can make up for the lack of elk; however, in the end, finding and harvesting an elk will mean a successful trip and a full freezer. If you have been struggling to find elk or are new to elk hunting this year, be sure to pay attention to the aforementioned mistakes that keep hunters from accomplishing their goals. Pass up some of the easily found elk spots, be realistic about the terrain and cover in relation to your hunting style and physical limitations, pay attention to the details, find the right elevation this year and you will find elk.

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Ever Carve a Bear? Part II

By Tom Cooper or those of you who read Part I in last month’s Western F Hunting and Fishing News, welcome back. If you missed it, it’s available in the past issues section online.

Shape and Smooth that Body Let’s start with the head and neck. Be careful, once we grind the material away, it cannot be replaced. Stand the profile; it should stand on three legs, but if it doesn’t, we will fix it later. On each side of the top of our deer, draw lines from the anticipated widest part of the front shoulder, to the widest part of the nose tip.

Part I described how to “carve” bears and waterfowl. Now, Part II addresses procedures for long-legged, hooved, and antlered big game animals, using a Whitetail deer example.

Now, Let’s Carve a Deer We’ve had a month to master (don’t let that term go to your head, we are all still novices) bears and ducks. Now, with our experience, we advance to deer. Use the same process, that is, create animal profiles. For long-legged big game, create two patterns: one with right legs and another with left legs. Start with a drawing or cut out a magazine picture (profile view) to make our pattern(s). Trace the pattern onto your wood

All photos credit Tom Cooper

(Picture 1, top left). Use a bandsaw (scroll blade) or an electric jigsaw (scroll) to cut your profiles. When we glue the two profiles together we have a well-shaped deer ready to start our final shaping and smoothing. As noted in Part I, “carving” means using a rotary tool most of the time, rather than a knife.

Before gluing our left profile and right profile together (this is important), use a pencil to mark the bottom of the chest on the inside of both front legs. Next mark the inside of the rear legs in a similar fashion. Not sure exactly what reference to use for rear legs, let’s say top of the “groin” (Picture 1, top right). Now use the rotary tool to grind away material below your marks. Start shallow (maybe ⅛ inch deep) just below the pencil marks and increase the amount of material removed as you taper towards the hoof (about ⅜ inch).

Before we glue the two profiles together after tapering, file and sand inside the legs (Picture 1, bottom). As we proceed, we’ll find a little more sanding and smoothing necessary on the inside of the legs. It just depends on how it looks to the carver. Since we have four legs tapered and sanded on the inside, we can glue left and right together (lightly sand before gluing). It should be obvious why we tapered the inside of the legs first, but for now, leave the outside of the legs alone. Until we finish shaping most of the body, it is safer for the lower legs if we leave them thick as long as possible.

26 | Hunting & Fishing News

Now, remove the excess material outside the lines (Picture 2, top left). There are two options: 1) use rotary tools to grind this material away, or 2) place the animal in a vice and use a small hand saw to cut most of the material away.

Next, we start removing material from the body. First draw lines reflecting the back of the front shoulder, and the front of the hind quarter (Picture 2, top right). Use rotary tools and files to grind away the material in between. This is the rib cage and stomach area on our deer. Grind away ¼ inch of material about halfway down, a bit more at the top and bottom to start to create the rounded shape of a deer we expect to see. Repeat on the other side (Picture 2, bottom).

Now, shape, round, and smooth (file and sand) the head and neck area by removing small amounts (a little at a time), then do it again, and again. Get the idea? We all know how wide shoulders should be compared to the width of the head and hindquarters. Right? It is really up to the carver.

Using a rotary tool and files, shape, round and smooth the top and bottom from the shoulders to the head/nose.

How slender do we want the neck? Again, it is up to the carver, use your rotary tools and files to make it happen.

Now grind, file, and sand the rest of the animal; shape, round, and smooth from the back all the way to the belly button, including about ⅓ of the way down each leg.

These efforts are not final; after tapering the legs, other portions of the body and neck might require a little more work (Picture 3, top left). Don’t forget the tail and rump (our profile has the tail at half mast, your next one might be straight up).

First cut a 2 inch chunk of antler, then split (saw) it lengthwise.

Once our deer is ready (Picture 3, top right), return to the outside of his legs and taper just like the inside. Be careful because now we are shaping delicate parts. As we taper and shape the outside of the legs, we also notice areas inside the legs needing additional work. The inside and outside of each leg should be “rounded” together. Hooves require similar shaping (slight point on front). Usually our animals will stand, if not, carefully sand the bottom of the longer leg(s) causing the problem.

Learn to hold legs with fingers close to the hoof, otherwise, they can break (Picture 3, above).

With animals like deer, breaking a leg while working is going to happen. Learn to apply pressure more delicately than with our bear’s thicker legs. We can also learn how to repair most broken legs; sometimes glue will do the job.

And sometimes we have to amputate a broken leg cleanly, saw a new one using your profile pattern, and grind/file as needed to taper it, then glue it in place. Drill a toothpick-size hole (⅛ to ¼ inch deep) in the middle of the top of our new leg and a matching hole in the sawn surface on the bottom of the remaining portion of the original leg, then cut a toothpick as needed for a post (¼ to ⅜ inch), now wood glue your new leg in place. Let it dry before sanding the “wound”.

Make sure the hoove points forward!

Antlers Anyone?

We want most of our shaping and smoothing completed on both the body and legs before we add antlers because legs and antlers break easily if we accidentally put too much pressure on them. Finishing the head and neck area is really important, including sanding, because placement of ears and eyes depends on the final shape of the head.

When our head is ready for its decorations, let’s attach ears first. Just as for the bear’s ears we dealt with last month, we have options. I prefer to carve ears separately on small tapered posts (toothpick-size), then insert the posts into tapered, drilled ear holes (note I had already removed the ears from our wood profiles). Eyes are less complicated, but I repeat, shaping and sanding our deer’s head should be complete first. It’s a matter of accurately marking eye placement points, because deer eyes really should be level.

Next, drill tiny holes and glue in black beads.

I know, you’ve been waiting. Ok, let’s jump on those antlers.

I tried wood first. It works fine for sheep, goats, and antelope.

For everything else, I couldn’t work delicately enough, too many breaks. I moved on to antler. Yes, we will cut rough antler shapes, from pieces of antler to grind into tiny antlers for our deer. Most of us have antlers hanging from garage rafters; I like elk antler, because the walls are usually thicker.

Now draw your version of a three point Whitetail buck’s antler (Picture 4, top left). You will see antler is similar to bone, the center is dried marrow-like material. Please be careful, rotary tools are sharp and fast. Risk of a cut is higher on hard material like antler. There are tight fitting gloves on the market – use them. Antlers do not have to match, so don’t worry about symmetry. Start small, that 6 x 6 will come with experience. First, use a rotary tool to grind away excess material and antler from your antler drawings. But for now, leave extra material at the base. Smooth and finish shaping (round and taper) both antlers, as much as possible.

Mounting the antler to the head is the trickiest part.

So, let’s drill a vertical hole through the base (that’s why we left extra material). Glue a small post (toothpick or grind your own from a narrow strip of cut antler) through the antler base, about ¼ inch below the antler to glue into a hole in the head (Picture 4, top right).

Then use the rotary tool to trim the base of each antler after the wood glue dries.

Picture 4, left shows eyes, ears and antlers.

Final step options include: 1) painting (if the carver is inclined), 2) staining followed by several coats of urethane, or 3) just several coats of urethane. Staining the antlers is a good idea because we ground off most naturally colored material.

For our buck, we used stain and urethane (Picture 4, right).

It’s a Hobby, Enjoy We started with bears and ducks for a reason; creating a few of each provides experience before moving to more difficult animals. Hopefully, we’ve made the distinction between bears/ducks and big game with long, slender legs and antlers.

Back in the day, after my first ugly duck carving, my second carving was a bear (no eyes or ears, and also ugly). My first deer did not happen for another 12 months. In the meantime, I carved 6-8 more bears and ducks. Typically, I finish an animal in 8-10 total hours, probably over 2-3 weeks. With each carving, we become more confident. As we move to more complicated animals, additional rotary bits and files may be needed. Initially, I wouldn’t recommend purchasing tools beyond the list provided in Part I. After you carve a few bears, ducks, and deer you’ll know where and when you need more equipment.

Let’s end this two-part “how to” article with Picture 5, showing what is possible when your confidence says: if Tom can do it, we can too! Have fun carving (with your rotary tool of course)!

Hunting & Fishing News | 27

8 Packing Tips For High Country Mule Deer & Early Archery Elk (continued from page 2) 3. Don’t Forget Your Rain Gear When you’re hunting mule deer above timberline, or chasing elk in early September, this is monsoon season here in Colorado. Afternoon thunderstorms can be expected almost every day. In addition to being aware of lightning, you should certainly be prepared for rain.

Rainstorms here usually don’t last long, but they can be intense. Your rain gear might spend more time in your pack than it does on your back, but it still needs to be solid.

There’s a fine line between ultralight and stormproof. And walking that line with quality rain gear usually isn’t cheap.

For a typical high mountain hunt, look for a quality rain jacket that’s breathable and weighs in somewhere in the 12 to 16-ounce range. Don’t be surprised if a jacket of this quality ranges between $250 and $350. However, quality rain gear is worth the investment.

In addition to protecting you from rain, breathable rain gear also blocks wind. That means it’s perfect for keeping you warm on a cool morning, or when glassing from a windy ridge. We already mentioned bringing dual-purpose items.

Good rain gear meets that mark.

4. Use Compression Sacks

6. Organize Daily Meals and Supplements Don’t guess at your meal plan. Take a careful inventory of your needed calorie intake each day. And work to keep your meal plan lightweight, without sacrificing energy.

We have become big fans of the meals from Peak Refuel.

They require less water than most dehydrated meals, they are high in protein, and they taste awesome when you’re in the backcountry. Mountain House meals are another one of our time-tested favorites.

When you’ve dialed in your daily meal plan, use separate plastic bags to organize your food by day, and label each bag. Then each day, simply grab a bag for that day’s hunt.

Also you might consider dividing up items like granola or jerky into daily portions and vacuum sealing them separately.

7. Know How to Care for Meat in Warm Weather When you’re hunting mule deer or elk early in the season, the weather can be hot. Even at timberline, temperatures can get very warm in early September. Don’t wait until you have an animal on the ground to begin making a plan.

Your planning for early season meat care begins now.

Of course we’ll be the first to tell you that quality game bags are essential. You need to keep your meat clean, protected, and get it cool as soon as possible. Our Caribou Gear High Country series is perfect for backpack mule deer hunts, and early season archery elk hunts.

When packing for a mountain hunt, use compression sacks wherever possible. Any item that’s compressible should probably go in a compression sack. Water resistant and even waterproof compression sacks are ideal.

Our High Country series comes in three sizes. This includes the Muley, designed for mule deer and similar sized game, and the Wapiti for elk. Each pack includes four long quarter bags and one meat parts bag for backstraps and other loose meat...

Forget the cheap stuff sack that came with your sleeping bag. Instead, use a waterproof or at least water resistant compression sack. This will reduce your sleeping bag to a much more manageable size in your pack. Just know that you shouldn’t store your sleeping bag in a compression sack (or any stuff sack) longer than necessary.

Additionally, pack your spare clothing, rain gear and anything else into a compression sack to reduce the size it takes up in your backpack.

8. Consider A Satellite Communicator

5. Build Your Own Emergency Kit

The Garmin InReach pairs with an app on your smartphone, allowing you to text from your phone, without using the clumsy interface on the device itself. When your InReach is activated, you’ll pay a monthly fee. When you don’t need it during the off-season, you can simply deactivate the device, and pause billing.

When you purchase a first aid kit or an emergency kit off the shelf from a sporting goods store, you’re inevitably adding items to your pack that are not customized to your specific adventure. For example, the kit we’d carry to Alaska is going to be much different than an emergency kit we’d pack for an alpine hunt here in Colorado. Customizing your kit will help you be more prepared, without taking unnecessary items.

We recommend building your own emergency kit. For starters, most first aid kids come in a handy nylon bag. While nice for keeping things organized, they are usually full of pockets, zippers, mesh dividers and other weight-adding features.

So, ditch the pack that your first aid kit came in, and start with an ultralight pouch or even a plastic sandwich bag.

Next, add items that you need and nothing that you don’t.

You might add a basic selection of bandages, antibiotic gel, gauze, wire splint, and blister pads. It’s also a good idea to carry blood clotting treatment or similar items in case you cut yourself on a broadhead or knife. You might also carry a whistle, a lighter, a backup compass, a spare headlamp like the Petzl E+Lite, and iodine pills in case your filtration system fails.

28 | Hunting & Fishing News

When you’re planning a hunt in remote and rugged country, you shouldn’t rely on your cell phone. You might sometimes get a signal on random mountaintops here in Colorado, but don’t count on it. It’s a great idea to carry a Garmin InReach or other satellite communicator. In addition to saving your life in case of injury, it’s nice being able to text and update your friends and family back home.

Gear Up For Early Season Hunts As you prepare for an early season hunt in the alpine or open tundra, check out the rest of our gear in the Caribou Gear Store. The products we carry are the same items we personally choose to carry in the field throughout years of testing.

If you have questions about these items, or any other gear questions, please don’t hesitate to reach out. We’d love to help you gear up for your next high country hunting adventure!

Visit www.caribougear.com.

Arrow And Broadhead Selection For Big Game Hunts

By Zach Lazzari Table Mountain Outfitters www.tablemountainoutfitters.com

hoosing your arrows and broadheads for big game hunts C is an important process. Some hunters have a general approach and use the same system for antelope, deer and elk while others favor different products for each species.

Regardless, you must dial in the weight and spine and practice with the same system you plan to use in the field...

Arrow Type and Spine - Most modern archery hunters will opt for carbon fiber arrow shafts but some still use aluminum or traditional wood shafts. Traditional bow hunters are especially more likely to go the wooden arrow route but carbon fiber always remains as a reliable and stable option.

Aluminum is less common but the arrows can fly straight.

The most important aspect of arrow selection is consistency.

Practice with the same arrows you will shoot in the field and use the same length and weight matched against the same broadhead grain. Practicing with the same setup will ensure your flight path is consistent and your practice targets are reflective of shots made in the field.

Your arrow needs enough spine to handle the broadhead weight for the given length as well. A spine chart from the manufacturer is the best way to determine the optimal spine for your arrow while matching to the length and broadhead grain.

We highly recommend spending some time at your local pro shop. These folks live and breathe archery hunting day in and day out. Whether it’s a bow hunt for elk or for antelope, tell them what you are planning and they can help you dial in an appropriate arrow setup.

Mechanical vs Fixed Blade -

The debate between broadhead options is never ending and each camp has a series of valid points to consider. It’s hard to beat a fixed blade broadhead for reliability but mechanical blades offer some advantages as well.

Photo courtesy Table Mountain Outfitters www.tablemountainoutfitters.com

A fixed blade is consistent, stout and leaves little room for error. They are preferred for hard hitting shots on elk and other big game animals by many hunters. The reliability factor really is hard to beat with fixed blade arrows and the rigid nature makes them more likely to punch through hard sides and bone.

Mechanical blades are also advantageous in their streamlined flight path. They fly more like a field point and can do serious damage when the blade opens and penetrates properly.

When it comes to elk especially, we recommend a fixed, two-blade broadhead for the combination of reliability, toughness and penetration.

Broadhead Weight and Influence on Flight Path - Your broadhead choice may vary for different big game species.

For example, a 125 grain broadhead on a 400-500 spine arrow is heavy enough to punch through elk while antelope can call for something lighter. (continued on page 38)

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Arrows and Broadheads Take this time to experiment with different broadheads and arrows if you’ve been considering making changes.

If not, stock up on the arrows, broadheads and field points you will need for the hunt. Make sure your spines and weight are all correct and consistent.

You want to practice with the same arrows and field point weights that will be used in the hunt.

Practicing with a broadhead that is dulled down or out of commission is also ideal to know exactly how it flies and lands in comparison to the field points.

You might find an inch or two of variability and it’s good to recognize and adjust for this early.

Pre-Season Preparations For Archery Hunters

By Zach Lazzari Dark Timber Lodge www.darktimberlodge.com

Practice Calling Now! Your bow is dialed and you are off to a great start by shooting early in the season. Getting the jump on calls is also a productive time investment. Keep a few reeds around the house or in the car and practice cow calls and bugles at least a few times each week.

Too many hunters wait until the season opens to throw a call in their mouth. When the pressure is on, it pays to be instinctive and natural with your calls.

Forcing a bad call in the heat of the moment can blow out suspicious cows and bulls.

Prep Your Auxiliary Gear

Photo courtesy Dark Timber Lodge www.darktimberlodge.com

pening day is on the horizon and archery hunters should O be getting a jump on the season by preparing gear and training. You can work on your shooting skills, and the off-season presents a major opportunity to test different gear, work through technique and get everything dialed and ready for the real thing.

Get Your Bow Dialed Work through every piece of your bow during the off-season to get everything setup for the hunt.

We recommend taking your bow to a pro shop for a quick check-up. If needed, this is the time to put a new string on. Make sure to check every screw and connection and change out sights and rests if needed.

Whatever you plan to have on the bow during hunting season should be added now, giving you enough time to practice.

Now is the time for tweaks and changes as they can impact shooting and arrow flight. After your accessories and string are installed and ready, start shooting and adjusting pins until you are dead on with consistency.

While you’re at the pro shop, sign up for a couple of lessons. Having someone watch you shoot and make suggestions can make a very positive difference.

Rather than ingraining bad habits through repetition, you can improve your technique and make forward strides.

30 | Hunting & Fishing News

As the hunting season gets closer, do a run down of your pack, clothing and boots. Spend some time in the field with your gear, while carrying your bow.

Getting used to everything and knowing how to quickly drop your pack for a stalk or make adjustments will help during the actual hunt.

Test your equipment so it’s organized and ready to roll on opening day.

Start Training Lastly, get in shape! Chasing elk often means climbing steep slopes and hiking into the backcountry.

Train early and often and practice shooting your bow from different positions, while winded. Take your bow for a hike or get your heart rate up by exercising then shoot a round of arrows. Practice breathing and calm yourself to focus and steady on the shot.

And rather than shooting a dozen arrows each day try picking up a single arrow and making it count. After all, you probably won’t get second chances on an elk.

Learn More About Hunting with Dark Timber Lodge To learn more about our guided elk hunts at Dark Timber Lodge, please take a few minutes to explore the rest of our website at www.darktimberlodge.com.

For details and specific availability, please feel free to contact us via email at timbertotable@hotmail.com or phone 208-691-3014. We’d love to help you plan a memorable elk hunting adventure!

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Don’t Overlook Fall Bear Hunting

By Jake Horton Originally published at

GOHUNT.com

T

hough spring bear season gets a lot of attention, many western states also have a fall bear season that hunters shouldn’t overlook. Fall bear hunting is an excellent add-on tag if you are already going to be in the mountains chasing elk, deer or other big game species or a fun standalone tag if you do not have any other plans. It also can be a great tag to grab if you want to join your buddies who have drawn a tag that you didn’t. I have even seen people use a fall bear tag as an excuse to be in the mountains hunting a unit they plan on drawing next year to get boots-on-the-ground scouting during a concurrent hunting season. No matter the reason, here are some tips to finding bears in the fall instead of just relying on good old fashion luck.

WHERE TO START Before purchasing a bear tag or heading into the mountains, a good amount of e-scouting should be done, especially if you plan on being successful. Even if you are just adding a tag onto a hunt, you need to be aware of any bear populations in the area and decide whether purchasing a tag is worth it, especially if you have to pay nonresident costs. The quickest and easiest way to do this is to use the information available on goHUNT’s Filtering 2.0 bear tab within the state you are interested in to see harvest success for specific units. Select the fall season and toggle the animal’s harvest or harvest success, depending on the state. If the state reports a reasonable success rate or a significant number of bears are being harvested, the tag might be worth it.

If the report is not so good, then you might want to look elsewhere or keep that money in your pocket.

WHERE TO LOOK Whether it is spring or fall, bears love to hang out in hard-to-reach areas.

Typically, it is suggested to look deep and steep if you want to find higher bear populations.

From my experience, they love to be back in difficult drainages.

Black bears usually stay far away from human interaction, so I find it quite common to see them in drainages and basins with no trails. Using the terrain steepness is the best and, quite possibly, only way to find bears since you need to glass into hillsides with good food sources and some water access. You may be wondering what bears eat in the fall and how to find these areas.

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FINDING THE BEST FALL FOOD Similar to the spring, the fall has bears mainly concentrating on food. They need to get their fat reserves up if they will make it through the winter and live another year.

As you know, bears are omnivores and will eat anything from birds to mammals to fish to plants to insects.

The fall is a good time for bears because other hunters focus on harvesting deer and elk and leave the carcasses with some meat scraps in the mountains.

This is a tricky thing to hone in on, so sticking with the more stable food sources will help you more than trying to find old carcass piles to hunt over. A more stable food source that bears will seek out and hold onto is berries and nuts. To bears, berries and nuts are easy food sources that can help them pack on the pounds before their winter slumber. When they find an area with a lot of these, they may stay for days or weeks on end. If you are solely hunting bears or adding on this tag, keep an eye out as you are hiking for these food sources and bear scat. If you find a berry-covered hillside with bear scat, it is probably a great area to glass that evening and mornings to come. After all, it does not make sense to overlook a side hill with no berries or nuts if there are areas in the basin with these food sources.

A bear’s day revolves nearly entirely around food.

WHEN TO HUNT THEM Though bears can be active any time of day, they do not usually find themselves out in the sun during midday.

During this time, they primarily will forage in dense timber where they are safe from hunting pressure and the hot sun.

If there is high hunting pressure in the area, bears may turn primarily nocturnal, which means the best time to see them out and about will be at dusk and dawn. Depending on the elevation, snowfall, temperature and food supply, you may see bears still out and about into late November.

Still, typically all bears are in hibernation by Dec. 1 — if not earlier. The bears that live at higher elevations will hibernate first, followed by the lower elevation.

The spring might be the most popular time to hunt black bears; however, the fall is a great time to chase them as well. Some states only have a fall season which means that it is the only time to hunt bears. Before you buy a tag, do some research on GOHUNT, do some e-scouting to find hard-to-reach trailless basins and then look for active food sources. Dusk and dawn are the best times of day to spot bears though it is possible to catch them in the open, moving from place to place at any time. Bears can be creatures of habit, especially if there is a good food source, so find the food and you will find the bears this fall.

Hunting & Fishing News | 31

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The 4014 Lynx Mid BOA is excellent for early-season backcountry bowhunting where a mid-high,

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Mystery Ranch Metcalf 71L Hunting Pack The Metcalf is an all-around workhorse, enough volume for more than

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Sig Sauer KILO5K Laser Rangefinder The new KILO5K 7x25 mm laser rangefinder monocular has a maximum reflective

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32 | Hunting & Fishing News

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Six Tips To Help You Find More Mule Deer

By Brady Miller Originally published at

GOHUNT.com

secret... I love mule deer and helping people chase It’stheirnomule deer dreams.

You’ve heard me say it a lot, but at the end of the day, mule deer hunting is an art and not a true science. You never know to an exact science where mature mule deer bucks will be, but in time, you can learn vital pieces to the puzzle that will help you narrow down the search.

What a mule deer buck does in a daily routine throughout the year is rooted in science (feed, cover and water). But science can be thrown out the window when you are hunting an old mature buck that has seen years of hunting pressure.

Below is a video where I outline six different strategies that you can use to hone in on finding mule deer this fall. There’s a ton of different things I do when finding my next hunting spot, but these six tips should get you lined out this season!

Glassing for mule deer with my Swarovski 115 setup.

Photo credit Luke Dusenbury

Sure you can kill bucks close to roads, trails or towns, but I’d rather focus my efforts on places that I have to myself or at least places I can try to hunt unpressured bucks.

But in saying that, don’t overlook places that people might just drive or hike by. It’s all about finding different barriers to entry.

TIP 3 - LOOKING AT ALL THE DETAILS ON SATELLITE IMAGERY

This tip is actually very important.

I like to look at all the terrain in the entire unit in 3D. It might seem simple, but the process can take a very long time. I like to pan around and look at every ridge, every patch of timber and every corner of unit. I want to get as familiar with the unit as the details on the back of my hand.

I want to be zoomed in close on 3D satellite imagery during this process because I don’t want to miss out on any of the intricate details of that unit and how the terrain looks during this stage of my e-scouting. If I find something during this stage that interests me, I’ll drop a waypoint. This process can take days or even a full week in the evening to accomplish. https://youtu.be/xWBhizvQCNM

Topics covered: TIP 1 - FINDING THE EDGE HABITAT Edge habitat is basically that sliver of an area where the cover meets the feed. That is where big bucks like to hang out. Older mature deer for the most part are smart and during those late September to October timeframes, big bucks won’t be seen out in the open that much. This is why if you focus on those fringe/edge habitats...it could lead you to find some areas where a big buck will slip up and allow you to put glass on him. The edge habitat I focus on is again right where the cover meets the open feed, but the edge also extends at least 50 yards inside the timber too.

That will be where some of the best feed in the timber will be located and bucks won’t have to slip out into the open to feed.

TIP 2 - ISOLATION This is all about finding those hard-to-access, hard-to-glass, little hidden pockets that have feed and cover.

There can be big deer anywhere, but from what I have seen, I find more deer if I get away from heavy traffic areas.

34 | Hunting & Fishing News

TIP 4 - FINDING GLASSING AREAS This is probably one of the most important parts of doing some e-scouting research before you head into the field.

It might seem like a very easy step... “just find high points and mark glassing spots” but it is way, way more in-depth than that. Not all glassing spots are created equal and not all glassing spots allow you to see the best terrain.

Besides marking glassing points, I like to mark secondary glassing points along a ridge system.

As the morning shadows start to move, I want to move as well and glass an area from a different angle.

Sometimes that involves climbing up the mountain higher, sometimes that means dropping elevations.

Why also mark more waypoints?

You just never know if the terrain will be favorable enough to really glass from that spot, which is why I really like to zoom in on the satellite imagery to pick apart the vegetation and tree cover for my glassing waypoints.

TIP 5 - NOT WORRYING TOO MUCH ABOUT WATER Depending on the place you’re hunting mule deer in the West, water might be important and locating water sources could put you in that spot to take a buck. But when hunting mountain bucks, I’m not so much concerned about finding water for bucks, rather I’m mainly focused on finding water that I will use on the hunt, and possibly how I can use the lack of water to my advantage. Lack of water in a mountain range means long hikes to get water, so knowing how to use that to your advantage can put you in places that people just don’t enjoy hunting. This is not really a huge tip, but I still felt like it was important to mention briefly.

TIP 6 - USE TERRAIN ANALYSIS & ELEVATION BAND TOOLS WHEN E-SCOUTING

Terrain Analysis and Elevation Bands on GOHUNT Maps are very powerful tools that allow you to highlight certain areas on the mountain and filter out your results.

So you can highlight different mountain aspects, slope degrees and elevations. This tool is the most important tool in my e-scouting efforts!

If you want to know how I use this tool (extrapolating previous waypoints and hunt intel), be sure to check out this article “Analyzing Terrain When E-Scouting To Find Better Mule Deer Hunting Areas” at https://www.gohunt.com/content/insider/maps/analyzingterrain-to-find-better-mule-deerhunting-areas as I go into the weeds on ways you can use this tool to find mature bucks.

Also, along with the Terrain Analysis Tool, there is a lot of value that can be found by using Elevation Bands.

You can key in on the habitat that mule deer use during certain times of the year with this tool and you can also layer stack with public land, migration layers, and the Terrain Analysis tool to really hone in on your next hunting spot.

The reasons we all hunt are vastly different and deeply personal.

But the one thing all hunters understand is that this great American tradition must be protected.

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Smoked Trout And Pear Grilled Cheese Sandwiches By a 12 gauge girl www.huntingandcooking.com

id I just say fish on grilled cheese? Yes, I did!

D This smoked trout and pear grilled cheese is cheesy, smoky, and has a little kick of horseradish! Give it a try!

INGREDIENTS Ingredients for Smoked Trout 10-12 large trout or fish of choice, can be left on bone but skin removed 1 cup salt 1/2 cup brown sugar 1 cup sugar 2 quarts water 1 can Old Bay Seafood seasoning 3 bay leaves 3-4 sprigs rosemary 1 bottle Cavit Pinot Grigio 2 pounds brown sugar Smoked Trout and Pear Grilled Cheese Ingredients Two filets smoked trout 8 slices sourdough bread 1 pear, thinly sliced Fresh dill sprigs Prepared horseradish Mascarpone cheese Butter

Outdoor Inspired Loans.

Inspired by you.

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36 | Hunting & Fishing News

Photo credit a 12 gauge girl www.huntingandcooking.com

INSTRUCTIONS How to Smoke the Trout 1. You can leave the fish on the bone but should remove the head and skin.

2. Mix the fish brine by filling a gallon freezer bag or large glass bowl with the water, salt, sugars, Old Bay Seasoning, bay leaves, and rosemary. Mix until the salt and sugars have dissolved.

3. Submerge the fish completely in the brine and refrigerate for ten to twelve hours.

4. Once finished brining, rinse the brine off the fish with cold water.

5. Mix the bottle of Cavit Pinot Grigio, or other white wine of your choice, with the two pounds of brown sugar in a large pot. Bring to a gentle boil and stir until sugar has completely dissolved.

6. Marinate fish in the wine and sugar mixture for one hour.

7. Once the fish has marinated, place the filets on a drying rack and let dry until a glossy pellicle develops. I use a small fan to make the coating dry extra solid. Drying time varies, but it takes about an hour.

8. Set the smoker to 180 degrees Fahrenheit. Fish should smoke somewhere between 165 and 225 degrees. If you go on the higher end, you tend to cook the fish instead of slow smoke, so I try to keep the temperatures lower. I also put aluminum foil on the grate below my rack to keep the fish from burning.

9. For pellets, I used hickory, but there is a large variety of woods available. Fish tend to be paired with woods that produce a lighter smoke, including alder, maple, pecan, and apple.

10. Smoke fish between 8 to 10 hours. The time depends on the thickness of your fish, so around hour six I start checking the filets with a meat thermometer. The fish is ready when it has reached an internal temperature of 145 degrees Fahrenheit.

Preparing the Grilled Cheese 1. Preheat a skillet or cast iron pan over medium high heat.

2. Spread a thin layer of butter on one side of each slice of bread.

3. Generously slather each slice of bread with the mascarpone cheese.

4. Start stacking the sandwich! To one side of bread for each sandwich add a single layer of thinly sliced pears.

5. Tear apart the smoked fish in bite size chunks and add to the top of the sliced pears.

6. Add a healthy number of fresh dill sprigs.

7. Finally, spread a thin layer of horseradish on the leftover slice of bread and then top the sandwich.

8. Grill in the skillet for three to four minutes per side, or until the bread is golden brown and slightly crunchy.

9. Enjoy!

Thinking Outside The Box On A Bowhunt (continued from page 9)

This can cause hasty shots which usually don’t end well.

Staying farther back can provide for a more relaxed situation overall. Shooting at an animal that has no idea you’re there is much better than when they’re staring at you. That’s not to say that you can’t go undetected at shorter ranges, but it’s just less likely because the veil is thinner. I recently heard a very well respected bowhunter say on a podcast that he’s got friends that won’t even consider shooting a Coues deer closer than 80 yards. There is a reason for that. So, just because this has always been about getting close, it doesn’t mean you have to get as close as possible. Know your limits, yes, but don’t disregard dialing that tape out.

STILL HUNTING WITH THE WIND I know this sounds crazy, but hear me out. Years back, I was sneaking my way along the edge of a bluff heading back to my truck. Now, I had done this first thing in the morning going the opposite direction with the wind in my face. So, I was basically going back the way I came at this point.

However, this time the wind was at my back. Because of this, I thought there was a fat chance of me running into anything critter wise. To my surprise though, I had a deer walk right past me at 40 yards. She was working into the wind and off to my side. That deer never looked at me or smelled me. This got me thinking.

Because of the cliff to my left and me walking along the edge, it put my wind out of reach from animals to my right.

Critters will often work into the wind to smell any potential danger ahead. My assumptions were this is exactly what that deer was doing. Since that day, I’ve successfully used this method of still hunting with the wind and walked my way into more than a few animals. It only works under certain circumstances, but the fact remains. It works and can be used to make the most of your time out there.

Doing this successfully requires prior knowledge of the area. You need to know where animals are feeding/bedding and that your wind isn’t blowing directly into that.

Stay on the edge and let your wind blow past them.

Anything working into the wind will be essentially walking right towards you off to your side. The cliff is a great example of this because my wind was either blowing directly in line with the cliff or off of it. This left the whole feeding area to my right in play.

IN SHORT One of my reasons for wanting to write this piece is to explain that bowhunting is not a cookie cutter activity.

You shouldn’t just do things because “that’s how you’re supposed to do them.” If you think shooting a 600 grain arrow is foolish, then don’t do it. Use the arrow that you’re the most comfortable with. If you want to hunt whitetails on the ground spot and stalk, then do it — despite everyone else being up in a tree. One of the most beautiful things about bowhunting — and any hunting for that matter — is it’s an art. Each one of us paints our own picture and there is nothing wrong with adding in your own flare.

38 | Hunting & Fishing News

Processing Wild Game: Beyond Burger, Five Options For Deer And Elk Meat (continued from page 6)

More tips for processing game meat

• Pay attention to sanitary guidelines and cooking temperatures. Use a meat thermometer to ensure meat has reached the proper temperature when smoking or drying.

• You know what flavors you like and dislike, so learn the basics of a recipe and adjust to suit your tastes.

Don’t be afraid to experiment.

• If it’s your first attempt with a new recipe, start with a small batch. If it doesn’t turn out how you like, you can change it for your next batch.

• If you’re making patty sausage, cook some as soon as it’s done.

Put a small, thin patty in an oiled frying pan, cook it a few minutes and taste it, then add more seasoning if needed.

• When freezing, don’t put too much meat into one package.

Aim for each package to hold enough for one meal.

• Take advantage of prepackaged seasoning mixes.

They take a lot of the hassle out of figuring out which spices to use and how much, and many are created for wild game, not domestic meats.

• Get a kitchen scale that will weigh about 10 pounds of meat.

It will ensure you get the right ratio of game meat to pork, pork fat, or beef fat.

• Use a vacuum sealer if you plan to freeze summer sausages, jerky or pepperoni for later use. It will prevent freezer burn or drying.

• Create a personal cookbook. Set up a folder on your computer’s desktop and put notes and recipes in there.

It’s easy to forget what recipes, seasoning or game-meat/ fat ratios you used, especially if you take recipes off the Internet, and you may not find them next time you look.

Arrow And Broadhead Selection For Big Game Hunts (continued from page 29) You can still use that heavy head for antelope but the weight creates early drop and isn’t necessary to penetrate their thin skin. That said, hunters chasing multiple species can benefit from using a single broadhead style and weight for everything because practice sessions will account for the arrow drop without any variation caused by changing out heads.

Choose your broadhead to match the species and practice with field points at the same grain. Also practice with a real broadhead to test and dial in your shot well ahead of each hunt. Every hunting guide can tell you stories of missed opportunities that were directly caused by a lack of familiarity with the weapon. We would hate to see any one of our hunters invest the time and resources to join us on a hunt, only to be frustrated by something so avoidable. Take the time to practice, practice, practice – so that you can be confident on the hunt!

Wyoming Bow Hunts With Table Mountain Outfitters Here at Table Mountain, we are not just a rifle hunting outfitter that offers a few token bow hunts. We are archery hunting enthusiasts ourselves and we take pride in offering outstanding bow hunts for elk, deer and antelope.

To learn more about our hunts, please take some time to explore our website at www.tablemountainoutfitters.com.

You’ll find details on hunts, pricing and more.

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