Riverfront Times, February 14, 2024

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TABLE OF CONTENTS Owner and Chief Executive Officer Chris Keating Executive Editor Sarah Fenske

E D I T O R I A L Managing Editor Jessica Rogen Editor at Large Daniel Hill Staff Writers Kallie Cox, Ryan Krull Arts & Culture Writer Paula Tredway Photojournalist Zachary Linhares Audience Engagement Manager Madison Pregon Dining Critic Alexa Beattie Theater Critic Tina Farmer Music Critic Steve Leftridge Contributors Aaron Childs, Max Bouvatte, Thomas Crone, Mike Fitzgerald, Cliff Froehlich, Eileen G’Sell, Reuben Hemmer, Braden McMakin, Tony Rehagen, Mabel Suen, Theo Welling Columnists Chris Andoe, Dan Savage

COVER

A R T

&

P R O D U C T I O N

Art Director Evan Sult Creative Director Haimanti Germain

A Journey to Reentry

Graphic Designer Aspen Smit

Barbara Baker spent 15 years in prison, but found a way to change her life. Now she fights to make it easier for other women to do the same

M U LT I M E D I A

A D V E R T I S I N G

Publisher Colin Bell Account Manager Jennifer Samuel Directors of Business Development Tony Burton, Rachel Hoppman

C I R C U L AT I O N

Cover photograph by

Circulation Manager Kevin G. Powers

THEO WELLING

B I G

L O U

H O L D I N G S

Executive Editor Sarah Fenske

INSIDE

Vice President of Digital Services Stacy Volhein Digital Operations Coordinator Elizabeth Knapp Director of Operations Emily Fear Chief Financial Officer Guillermo Rodriguez

Front Burner News

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Chief Executive Officer Chris Keating

N AT I O N A L

A D V E R T I S I N G

VMG Advertising 1-888-278-9866, vmgadvertising.com

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Missouriland Feature

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Calendar

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Cafe

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Short Orders

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Culture

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Music

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Film

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Out Every Night

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Savage Love

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MONDAY, FEBRUARY 5. It’s a high of 57 and the sun’s in the sky — this does not feel like February in St. Louis, and we have zero complaints. Not so happy are the Californians, who are seeing massive rain and mudslides. Another place we’re directing our Schadenfreude: the Hoffmann companies, which already seem to be dismantling their ill-conceived faux-Napa mid-Missouri empire. Couldn’t happen to a tackier group! Also, Missouri Right to Life sets up a “tip line” to surveil petition gatherers for the new constitutional amendment aimed at restoring abortion access in Missouri — and activists promptly issue calls to “flood the snitch line.” It’s guerilla warfare, fighting fire with fire, and we just hope a whole lot of people call 417-413-4134 to tip them off to the signing party at the landfill in Bridgeton! TUESDAY, FEBRUARY 6. Former state lawmaker Maria Chappelle-Nadal makes the first congressional district a three-way race, joining St. Louis County Prosecuting Attorney Wesley Bell in challenging U.S. Representative Cori Bush (D-St. Louis). It’s three-dimensional chess trying to figure out who Chapelle-Nadal’s candidacy will help in the long run, but in the short run, there’s surely a political

Previously On LAST WEEK IN ST. LOUIS operative getting their percentage. As for Attorney General Andrew Bailey, he’s going after the Webster Groves School District, which he claims showed students “a video presentation that discussed gender identity and sexual orientation” without getting parental permission first. The horror! Also, alas King Charles III; less than two years into the job he waited his whole life for, the poor old boy has cancer. WEDNESDAY, FEBRUARY 7. Senator Mike Moon (R-Crazytown) goes viral for listing all the famous people who were conceived by rape or incest, all part of his diabolical plan to force other rape victims to endure their pregnancies. “This is infuriating,” tweets one survivor. In St. Louis, Circuit Attorney Gabe Gore moves to vacate the 1991 murder conviction of Christopher Dunn. It’s good to know that even though he’s a lot more aggressive than predecessor Kim Gardner, Gore still knows a wrongful conviction when he sees one.

5 QUESTIONS for author Dave Lange Dave Lange has covered soccer in St. Louis dating back to the 1970s, when as a college student he freelanced for the Suburban Journals. To say he brings a depth of knowledge to his new Reedy Press book about City SC, Year One, is an understatement. Yet even that background couldn’t fully prepare Lange for the excitement of MLS’ first season in St. Louis — and just how mad the city went for soccer. Lange recently joined us to discuss the team’s magical 2023 season and more. This conversation has been edited for length and clarity. What made City SC’s “year one” such a banger? I think there were several reasons. Not just the fact that they won a lot of games and finished first in the conference, but the whole vibe around the experience, selling out every game. The attitude of the crowd — they’re all into it and excited and chanting and cheering. And the fact that St. Louis has been waiting so long to have a professional soccer team at the first division level. We call ourselves the original soccer capital of the United States, but we didn’t have a team in Major League Soccer because we had nobody at the top end willing to invest in it. And that all changed with Jim Kavanaugh from World Wide Technology and then the Taylor family at Enterprise. Should the Cardinals be worried? I don’t think so. I mean, the Cardinals have been here forever, and they have a very dedicated fan base that goes back a century or more. I mean, they obviously need to win. But I think these teams can coexist. What’s something you learned working on the book that surprised you? I knew that Roman Bürki was a good goalkeeper, but when I went back and rewatched all the games over and over again, he really stood out. I mean, the saves he made were just otherworldly. There was one game where the guy thought he had a goal and Bürki made a save and the guy just fell to

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THURSDAY, FEBRUARY 8. AnheuserBusch stock rises after former President Donald Trump posts approvingly that they are “not a Woke company.” Writes the Senile One on his “Truth” platform (yes, those are scare quotes), “Anheuser-Busch is a Great American Brand that perhaps deserves a Second Chance? What do you think?” The capitalization and question marks are his (of course). As for President Joe Biden, Special Counsel Robert Hur issues a report on mishandled documents concluding that he’s “a sympathetic, wellmeaning, elderly man with a poor memory,” and while that might be nicer than anything anyone in America can say about his opponent, it does not bode well for this fall — campaigning or governing. FRIDAY, FEBRUARY 9. Former St. Louis Police officer Matthew EerNisse is found not guilty — proving yet again city cops can never go wrong eschewing a jury of their

peers in favor of a single judge appointed by Governor Mike Parson. Also, a St. Louis County grand jury fails to indict the Hillsdale municipal employee who ran over a journalist attempting to ask him questions and now all charges are dropped. Earl Longmeyer faced charges of driving in a careless and imprudent manner and causing an accident after allegedly running over KTVI photojournalist Wade Smith. Smith’s attorney Chet Pleban previously told us Smith was left with severe injuries, including a “bone sticking out.” But no one cares when the victim is a journalist…. SATURDAY, FEBRUARY 10. It’s Mardi Gras, and Soulard is packed. How nice to have one day when all of St. Louis can come together and get absolutely stupid in the fresh air. SUNDAY, FEBRUARY 11. The Chiefs win the Super Bowl! Are we mad that Clark Hunt, who enthusiastically supported Stan Kroenke’s move to Los Angeles, is again victorious? Or are we pleased that a Missouri team has won — even if everyone thinks that team is in Kansas? Judging by the NFL paraphernalia in St. Louis bars, we’re goshdarn happy to root for Kansas City. It’s Taylor Swift’s team, after all, and Hunt is laughing all the way to the bank.

the ground to his knees, he was so astounded. I think the fact that the players in the league voted him as the toughest goalkeeper to beat says a lot. You went back and rewatched all the games? I wanted to go back and watch because you forget things, right? Like the joy of Miguel Perez scoring a goal or the saves Bürki made or Eduard Löwen’s tremendous goal from 40 yards out on a free kick. You know you remember those moments, but seeing them actually happen and watching them again and again really tells you what a good team and what a great season they had.

Dave Lange wrote the book on City SC’s Year One. | JANET LANGE

You used to cover soccer for the Globe Democrat. Was this an exciting year for you personally? It sure was. To remember what I had seen, we had a professional team here called the Stars playing in the North American Soccer League outdoors. The NASL at that time was the best league in the country, but the Stars played a lot of their games at Francis Field at Wash U, and in those days Francis Field was not in good shape. In fact, I remember part of the concrete stands were condemned, and the football team also used the field, so it was not in the best shape. You got people like Pele coming in here to play, and you’re like, “Wow, what, what must he think, winning the World Cup and he’s playing at Francis Field?” So seeing this new stadium and the money that’s been invested in it, and all the effort that was put into it, it really was a wonderful thing to see. —Sarah Fenske


Why is all of St. Louis mad about Schnucks’ new selfcheckout policy? Don’t they know there’s no lines at the dumpster behind the store?

WEEKLY WTF?!

There’s (red) gold in them there streets. | ZACHARY LINHARES

BRICK WATCH When: 4:54 p.m. Monday, January 29 Where: Juniata Street and Nebraska Avenue, Benton Park West What: Order descending steadily into chaos in a perfect case study in entropy, a small fortune in bricks What’s Zillow say? According to the real estate company’s most recent estimate, it would only cost $6,000 in repairs to get this 1890 beauty ready to sell! However: It seems likely they are working with outdated information. At this point: Ownership would probably make more money selling each brick individually — a process that is assuredly already in motion among the more enterprising elements of the local populace.

15 SECONDS of FAME BAD DRIVERS OF THE WEEK

THE ST. LOUIS POLICE Another week, another police SUV crashing into an inanimate object for no apparent reason. Around 11:30 a.m. on Thursday, February 8, an officer in the employ of the St. Louis police drove their vehicle off the road, along the sidewalk and into the chain link fence surrounding the New Bethlehem Missionary Baptist Church on North Euclid Avenue near Page. And once again, no other vehicles were involved … and this on a day with clear skies and dry roads. So, what triggered the accident this time? A stray dog? A parked car just sticking its Oops, they did it again. | TOM WATSON butt out there in the street? Maybe even the police radio, daring to distract the driver with all its shiny buttons? Yes, we can’t help but think of the two rookie officers who drove their SUV into Bar:PM, only for police to swiftly arrest the bar’s coowner, who dared to question why a vehicle had crashed through his front wall. In this case, though, the police report only minor injuries and no one’s been arrested — not even the fence owner, apparently. In St. Louis, that counts as a happy ending.

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NEWS GOP Book Burner Lives in St. Louis

“Honestly, to say that [Gomez’s rhetoric] is dangerous — it’s almost a nice way to put it. It’s genuinely deadly to some people in the community.”

Valentina Gomez is running for Missouri secretary of state — and torching library property BY KALLIE COX

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ormally, St. Louis voters can count on bombastic Republican politicians coming from far-flung parts of Missouri (who’s even heard of Mike Moon’s home, Ash Valley?) or at least as far as St. Charles County. The latest GOP book burner, though, is a city resident. Valentina Gomez, a candidate for Missouri Secretary of State, went viral last week after she posted a video of herself using a homemade flamethrower to incinerate two library books with queer themes outside the Springfield-Greene County library. “When I’m Secretary of State, I will BURN all books that are grooming, indoctrinating and sexualizing our children. MAGA. America First,” Gomez wrote. The use of the term “grooming” has been historically used by politicians to demean the LGBTQ+ community and to hurl false stereotypes by pushing a narrative that queer people attempt to “recruit” children. And while that rhetoric may be par for the course for Republicans running for statewide office in Missouri, it’s certainly more unusual in Benton Park, where Gomez owns a home. Gomez did not respond to a request for an interview with the RFT. Her book burning followed what was supposed to be a children’s book reading with surfer Bethany Hamilton and swimmer Riley Gaines, who have come under fire for transphobic rhetoric toward trans athletes. The event turned more political when current Secretary of State Jay Ashcroft and candidate Gomez spoke in opposition to DEI (diversity, equity and inclusion) efforts and critical race theory, say Brittany Dyer and her wife Heather Dyer. The Dyers attended as part of a protest against the event, along with about 20 others. Before any authors spoke, Gomez and Ashcroft addressed the crowd. Gomez held up the books she later burned, claimed they came from the

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Valentina Gomez knows the temperature at which library books burn. | SCREENSHOT

children’s section and promised to end LGBTQ, DEI and diversity efforts in the library, Brittany says. (Gomez has also stated on her campaign website that she will review “library funding.”) One of the books was Queer: The Ultimate LGBTQ Guide for Teens by authors Kathy Belge and Mark Bieschke. The other was Naked: Not Your Average Sex Encyclopedia by Myriam Daguzan Bernier, a guide for teens about health. Gomez later posted a video in which she appears to use a homemade flamethrower decorated to resemble the shark-toothed aircraft popularized by the Flying Tigers in World War II to incinerate the two books. Neither of the books were shelved in the teen or children’s section, instead coming from the adult self-help section, the Dyers say. They denounced the stunt — and the serious escalation it seems to represent. “It’s definitely a harmful rhetoric that’s being introduced,” Heather says. “There’s a direct reaction to this type of hate-filled rhetoric that spews from a political base that trickles down into personal lives and has deep and longlasting impacts on people,” Brittany says. “Honestly, to say that it’s dangerous — it’s almost a nice way to put it. It’s genuinely deadly to some people in the community.”

Gomez is running on a conservative platform that promises to remove all electronic voting machines and pledges to end DEI efforts in libraries. Her website also expresses her beliefs about the transgender community and claims there are “only two genders.” (Curiously, in a state entirely controlled by conservative Republicans, she’s also running on a throw-thebums-out platform, writing, “Our draconian leadership has been purchased and it is time to remove each one of them from office.”) Gomez’s website, LinkedIn and social media platforms say that she’s 24 years old and works in finance and strategy at Nestlé Purina. Purina did not respond directly to our questions asking whether the book burning incident was being investigated or if Gomez would face any professional repercussions for her actions. The company did say, however, “Ms. Gomez does not speak for Purina with her words and actions. The behavior in this video runs counter to the expectations we have for our employees.” (The library also did not respond to requests for comment.) On her website, Gomez touts her age as badge of honor, writing, “Valentina is a woman of intellect and agility who possesses the highest educational qualifications amongst all candidates

having earned an MBA in Finance and Strategy from Tulane University at 22; is responsible for the investment of millions of dollars for business development, and now battling a corrupt political machine with the mission to awaken and unify the people of Missouri against an emergent future filled with darkness and disparity if change is not enacted.” It is unclear what Gomez’s “agility” has to do with her candidacy, but she does note on her LinkedIn that she is a former Division I swimmer who has coached Special Olympics swimming for the last seven years. Gomez and her family are originally from Colombia. A 2019 feature in the New York Times says the family immigrated to New Jersey 10 years earlier, renting various apartments before gearing up to buy a house (the focus of the Times story, which ran in the real estate section). Despite that background, Gomez has posted hateful videos regarding immigration to her social media, including one where she referred to “illegal” immigrants as “sleeper agents” who would turn on America. In another post to her personal Facebook account on January 6, Gomez wrote, “J6 was entrapment. The true insurrectionists are the illegal immigrants invading our country.” In the same post she endorsed the infamous QAnon Shaman, Jacob Chansley, for Congress in Arizona. Chansley has been sentenced to 41 months in prison with 36 months of supervised release for his role in the attack on the U.S. Capitol. But the thing about Gomez that may most upset some of her St. Louis neighbors is totally unrelated to her politics — yet locally, widely considered a crime against humanity: Neighbors say she painted her brick house white. n

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Schnucks’ New Rules Draw Ire Anger against the grocer is now uniting a divided St. Louis BY DANIEL HILL

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oo often, our differences can seem insurmountable. In these divided times, we tend to function as a fractured society almost by default, one that pits us against each other over the most inconsequential of differences — red vs. blue, woman vs. man, west of I-270 vs. those who prefer to live adjacent to such novel things as “culture” and “civilization.” But once in a while, some unifying force comes along with a pull so strong it can’t help but bring us together. Like a pair of magnets of opposite polarity joining as one, we unite — and we are stronger for it. These past couple weeks have offered the St. Louis area one such moment, as citizens of all stripes set aside the things that make us different and embrace that which makes us the same. That’s right: We’re talking about our collective hatred of Schnucks’ new self-checkout guidelines. St. Louis’ largest homegrown grocery chain unleashed its new policy (henceforth dubbed The Calamity) upon an unsuspecting St. Louis on February 1. The fine print of The Calamity limits self-checkout purchases to just 10 items or less — fully half of the previous limit, and now also rigorously enforced. Union leadership touted the change as a win-win for both employees and customers. “A more full-service operation has the benefit of being good for our hard-working union partners and will help Schnucks conduct more efficient business,” said UFCW Local 655 President David Cook in a statement on February 2. “Our partners in these stores enjoy interacting with customers and making connections, and it gives those shoppers a greater overall experience.” A more full-service operation does sound nice! Some of us even remember the days when we didn’t have to deal with any sort of self-checkout whatsoever at the grocery store, a time when a full force of actual people were instead employed to scan our items and bag them for us. A return to even a fraction of that experience would indeed surely be welcomed by both customer and employee alike. The situation on the ground, however, has not lived up to the promise of its implementation. Ever since The Calamity was introduced, Schnucks shoppers across the St. Louis region have taken up arms in a show of unity not seen since back when we collectively ran Stan Kroenke out of town on a rail. Social media has been in an uproar, with neighborhood groups abuzz with dissatisfied customers who were forced to shuffle through the overcrowded full-

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Schnucks’ insistence on capping self-checkout at 10 items has many St. Louis shoppers raving mad. | ZACHARY LINHARES

service lines to make their purchases. The top post on St. Louis Reddit last week, “Schnucks lines,” garnered 284 upvotes and 279 comments. “This new policy is a total disaster,” that post, by Reddit user burritofan41, reads. “There is still no one checking people out and the self-checkout sits empty. Just waited 1/2 hour to check out. Looks like it is Dierbergs or Fresh Thyme from here on out until the policy changes.” The responses to the post are similar. Simply put, the reviews are in — and the people are not impressed. “Here’s me at Schnucks Arsenal around 2:00pm with a 16 item cart, staring longingly at the 7 open self-checkouts,” writes madanthony. “I got shoo-ed out of selfcheckout. By the time I checked out, the full-service line had ballooned back to the red sign where the self-checkout line

starts. Shockingly, 5 out of 7 full-service lanes were staffed. Still not enough.” “This whole thing has been strange,” a Redditor identified only by a string of numbers adds. “Obviously if they are clamping down on self-checkout they need more staffing but it seems some of the locations didn’t get that additional staffing. It’s almost like they don’t want this to succeed.” “Oh, it makes total sense,” allenkcrain writes. “They don’t want people to steal things from self-checkout, but they also don’t want to hire more employees to make regular checkout lanes go smoothly, so their clever solution is simply to give their customers an extremely bad experience.” That last poster in particular seems to have hit the nail on the head. It’s true that self-checkout aisles have been notoriously bad for loss prevention efforts in stores

where they’ve been introduced. (In my defense, I have not been properly trained on these machines.) Scaling back on those would certainly make shoplifting far more difficult, but that comes at a price, and that price is the cost of labor for a proper workforce. And while the union did indeed celebrate The Calamity upon its implementation, we have to think they’d be even happier with more jobs for their workers. The haggard looks on the faces of the poor employees forced to police the new policy tell us that the rank-and-file is less enthused than advertised as well. Things would be a lot better for everyone if corporate would just loosen up those purse strings. A full-service force of trained employees getting paid a fair wage for their hard work? Now that’s something we can all unite behind. n

Smoke Gets in Your Eyes

A firefighter with the St. Louis Fire Department climbs a ladder to help extinguish a 4-alarm fire in a riverfront warehouse on February 3. | ZACHARY LINHARES

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MISSOURILAND

Takin’ It to the Streets Soulard’s Mardi Gras was packed with revelers on Saturday — and the good times, they rolled PHOTOS BY ZACHARY LINHARES TEXT BY SARAH FENSKE

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very year St. Louis turns out for Mardi Gras — and Saturday, February 10, was no exception. Surprisingly warm temperatures for early February meant thousands turned out to dance, stroll the streets of Soulard and, of course, drink. Everywhere you looked was a sea of green, gold and purple. As bartenders poured hurricanes and beads rained down freely from second- and third-story windows, St. Louis got its party on — and if some people were feeling a bit tired and headachy when they awoke on Super Bowl Sunday, well, that’s a small price to pay for letting the good times roll. n

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A CELEBRATION OF THE UNIQUE AND FASCINATING ASPECTS OF OUR HOME

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A Cleaner Slate

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After four stints in prison, Barbara Baker made the most of her fifth chance — and then devoted her life to giving other women the same opportunity B Y

K A T H L E E N

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remains out of reach for many what he did.” A sign on the wall of Barbara Baker’s office ment people with drug dependency. Less than a year later, in the fall of

proclaims “Everything Is Possible,” and Baker’s life might be the ultimate proof of that.

More people today understand substance use disorders as chronic but treatable health conditions. However, drug users continue to be labeled as criminals — preventing many from seeking help for debilitating and sometimes fatal disorders. In 2016, less than a quarter of female prison admissions in Missouri were from new convictions, according to the Institute for Public Health. The remaining 75 percent were either women being ordered back to prison for drug treatment or for violations of probation or parole — many of which result directly from substance abuse. For Baker, a turning point came during her fifth stint in prison, when the possibility for early parole opened up. During this time, she worked as a certified nursing assistant in a workrelease program during the day and returned to prison at night. “I told myself, ‘When I get out, I’m not going to use drugs anymore,’” she says. Then she purchased heroin from a friend. The next morning, she woke up in a panic — expecting to be drug tested soon. A positive test would prevent the possibility of early release. And this time, for whatever reason, something clicked for Baker. “They didn’t call me that day, and by the time I was tested, the drugs were out of my system,” she says. “I just prayed to God to keep me clean and sober and direct my path, and that’s

Baker is the advocacy director at Keyway Center for Diversion and Reentry, a St. Louis-based nonprofit that works with, and on behalf of, women in the criminal justice system. She began working there nearly 25 years ago and will be retiring in August. “Working with the women here gave me the strength to keep going,” she says. “It always kept my life in front of me.” When Baker, 72, was first hired, she was only a few years out of prison. She had been arrested more than 50 times and served five sentences for shoplifting to support a drug habit. Her kids spent years in the care of family members; one was taken from her just days after his birth. Now she advocates for women like herself. It’s a growing population. While only 10 percent of the prison population in the U.S. is female, the number of women incarcerated since the 1980s has skyrocketed nearly 700 percent. The incarceration rate of women in Missouri is also much higher than the national average, according to the Prison Policy Initiative. What Baker, like many justiceinvolved women have discovered, is that systemic challenges set them up for failure after their time behind bars ends. Through Keyway, she advocates for ways to smooth the path for women who want to change their lives — and the families that suffer in their absences.

Carondelet in honor of Barbara Baker eight years ago. “For the first time, they caught me speechless,” she says. “I just thought of all the grace and mercy that God has shown me since I walked out of prison.” Baker grew up in Pruitt-Igoe, the massive high-rise housing project that opened in the DeSoto-Carr neighborhood of St. Louis in 1954. The complex was built with federal money, but administered by the St. Louis Housing Authority. Things deteriorated quickly, and by 1970, a federal report found conditions in the complex were “nearly unbelievable.” Within a few years the last tenants had moved out and the buildings were demolished. “I didn’t want to go there, but I didn’t have a choice,” Baker recalls. At a young age, Baker says she began experimenting with drugs. First cough syrup, which previously contained codeine, a narcotic used for pain. Later, heroin — a highly addictive fast-acting opiate. That’s when she started shoplifting to support her drug habit, finding herself in and out of prison as she scrambled to get her fix. The war on drugs, in which the U.S. government targeted recreational substance users, significantly increased the number of women incarcerated, even as access to quality drug treat-

A Chance to ‘Tell My Story’

This story was commissioned by the River City Journalism Fund, which seeks to advance local journalism in St. Louis. See rcjf.org for more information.

Keyway named a housing unit in

Left: Barbara Baker has advocated for women coming out of prison for 25 years. Above: Keyway Center offers clothes and shoes for women ready to go out and interview for a job. | THEO WELLING

1995, Baker was released from prison for the last time. This time, she got involved in a women’s organization through the Criminal Justice Ministry, a St. Louis nonprofit that helps people reenter the community. She joined their program Let’s Start, which is run by women who had previously been incarcerated. Soon after Baker became a participant in the program, she started speaking to groups about her lived experience. “I was getting the opportunity to go around and tell people my story,” she says. “I was getting rid of the shame and guilt behind the lifestyle.” Four years later she joined Keyway, and found her life’s calling. The organization had been founded in 1997 as the Center for Women in Transition by a group of St. Louisbased nuns, the Sisters of St. Joseph of Carondelet, and initially focused on prison ministry work and mentoring. In 1999, Sister Rose McLarney, who was Keyway’s first full-time executive director, called Let’s Start looking to hire a part-time administrative assistant. Baker got the job. Just a few years later, a new position would open: advocacy director. Baker got that job, too. Yet Baker believes her advocacy efforts actually began in prison, where she was tasked with working for the superintendent and relaying messages from inmates. She learned how to talk to people and translate their needs into clear communication. In her new role, Keyway coached her on how to approach legislators and judges. But she didn’t need any help learning how to approach women who were getting out of prison.

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BARBARA BAKER Continued from pg 15

“They said I could connect with the women because I had spent so much time with them,” says Baker. “Then I started telling everybody that came out of prison, ‘Hey girl, they got this program over here.’”

Reducing Recidivism Baker had spent a total of 15 years behind bars. Once she was released, instead of focusing on herself, she had to focus on things like getting a job, finding a place to live and getting her children back. “You come out of prison and you want to conform to what society says, but you need support and time to heal yourself,” says Baker. “When I started working at Keyway, that’s when it clicked.” Approximately 43 percent of people in state prisons have been diagnosed with a mental health disorder, and in Missouri, many inmates with mental health conditions must wait extended periods for treatment. About 88 percent of people in Missouri prisons report having engaged in substance misuse the year before incarceration, according to the Missouri Department of Corrections. Trauma history is also higher among prison populations — and that is linked to the kind of antisocial behavior or substance abuse that makes it hard to break the cycle. “I’d see different faces, but the same issues over and over,” says Keyway Executive Director April Foster. Foster initially worked with juveniles in the criminal justice system and later moved on to gender responsive programming, which is designed to address the intersection of trauma and co-occurring substance use and mental health disorders. Foster came to Keyway five years ago, and the agency now also works with non-binary, gender-nonconforming and transgender individuals to help address their specific needs and challenges following incarceration. Keyway steps in at the point that people are released from prison. “When they’re released, then I pick them up and bring them here,” says Baker. Depending on their recovery level, many Keyway participants will then end up living at one of the organization’s supervised, apartment-style housing units. In Carondelet, Baker House and Schirmer House offer temporary housing for up to 44 individuals. There is also room for 21 participants at Sharon House, a permanent housing residence in the Central West End. However, not all Keyway participants live in one of the housing units. “We do an assessment of each individual when they come in,” says Fos-

Keyway Center Executive Director April Foster with Jax. | THEO WELLING

ter. “Then we work alongside them to build a program that works for them.” Keyway’s orientation phase includes a two-week stabilization period that helps establish connections with medical professionals and external service providers — and even covers the most basic needs. “Someone from our organization will get you clothes, hygiene, go to the grocery store,” Baker says. For those with a history of substance use disorder, a transition support specialist, who is also certified in peer recovery, provides additional support. After completing orientation, participants move into core programming. An assessment of their strengths and needs is followed by the development of individualized case plans. Participants engage in classes and workshops that cover topics such as job readiness, budgeting, financial literacy, housing education and communication skills. They are also encouraged to take advantage of on-site behavioral health services. Keyway says 82 percent of its clients in fiscal year 2023 gained employment and 100 percent maintained stable housing and did not return to prison within six months of program admission. Eighty-seven percent of participants also reduced saw trauma symptoms relating to child abuse, domestic violence, rape and other distressing experiences. Potential Keyway participants must

first submit an online application. They must be 18 or older, able to perform activities of daily living — including things like bathing and eating — and currently be involved with the criminal justice system or have been within the past six months. They must also be committed to participating in Keyway’s programming. Unfortunately, not all people who come to Keyway are ready to change. “We’ve had several come that weren’t ready yet,” says Baker. “If you’re not doing the things you need to be doing in the program we ask you to leave, because we have other women to consider.” Drug use on Keyway’s premises is an automatic grounds for dismissal. To ensure that participants remain sober, they are subject to random urine analysis and breathalyzer tests. But even when someone fails, Baker remains hopeful. “We’ve had some that didn’t make it but came back later,” says Baker. “We fall down, but we get back up.”

Fulfilling Their Goals Mary Lou Walker currently lives at Sharon House. “I’ve been to a lot of treatment centers because I’m trying to keep myself sober, but people are there for the wrong reasons,” she says. “They might be looking for shelter or not working on anything. It’s a distraction.” Walker, 68, previously worked as

the house manager at Sober Home, an organization that helps with addiction recovery. She and Baker would regularly refer clients to each other that didn’t fit the criteria for each of their organizations. Then Walker, who had struggled with heroin use, relapsed under the pressure of her position. She reached out to Baker and came to Keyway in the fall of 2023. “Here, everyone is getting jobs and fulfilling their goals,” she says. “That’s what you have to do to stay clean and sober.” Baker’s office is also in Sharon House. One of the joys of her job, she says, is simply interacting with the women there. When she’s not reviewing Keyway applications, sometimes she’ll catch up with some of them around the house. But she says the women are often busy working on their goals. “They’re going to work and doing their own thing,” Baker says. Though Baker is often in meetings, Keyway participants know that she’s always available to help. “There’s nothing like being able to pick up the phone and call somebody when you need support,” says Jennifer Brown, a current Keyway participant who attends weekly peer support sessions with Baker. “You can call her any time.” Brown, 40, came to Keyway in September of last year from Cape Gi-

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rardeau. She had been in prison for numerous drug convictions. Now, she lives at Baker House. Since coming to Keyway, Brown found work as a server at Red Lobster and is also pursuing a commercial driver’s license to become a truck driver. By June, Brown hopes to have saved up enough money to leave Baker House and find her own place. However, finding a home with a felony conviction is not so easy. Many landlords and rental agencies will not rent to those with a criminal record, which makes a tough situation even worse. Since the pandemic, housing prices have skyrocketed. Evictions also increased. While people leaving the prison system face obstacles upon reentering society including housing instability and financial insecurity, women and transgender individuals may face even higher levels of discrimination. According to the National Center for Transgender Equality, one in five transgender people in the U.S. has been discriminated against when seeking a home, and more than one in ten have been evicted from their homes because of their gender identity. Most parole agreements require people being released from prison to find not only housing, but a job. However, many employers will not hire formerly incarcerated individuals, and without a job, people can’t pay their bills, including rent. “Even if your family has a place on the couch for you, they don’t have any money to get you to look for a job every day,” says Baker. A survey from the Urban Institute found that more than one-third of people released from incarceration have difficulty obtaining a car for work or emergencies. Nearly a quarter also reported having trouble accessing public transportation. According to a 2020 Missouri Department of Corrections report, the unemployment rate in the state for people on parole was about 45 percent, or close to 17 times the state’s current overall unemployment rate of 2.7 percent. Four in ten women in the United States say they have faced discrimination on the job because of their gender, including recruiting bias, unequal pay and sexual harassment. More than three-fourths of transgender individuals have also experienced job discrimination, including refusal to hire, privacy violations, harassment and physical or sexual violence on the job. Keyway refers participants who need help finding a job to Transformative Workforce Academy, a Saint Louis University collaboration that’s

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Mary Lou Walker has found the support she needs in Keyway’s Sharon House. | THEO WELLING

designed to support people at high risk of incarceration. The organization helps with resume building and interview prep, among other things. “We help hook them up with employment,” says Maddy Heil, an employment specialist at Transformative Workforce Academy. Heil was a Keyway participant herself 12 years ago. Barnes-Jewish Hospital and Schnucks are just a couple of the local organizations that intentionally take placements from the Workforce Academy. Other organizations also help connect people leaving prison to new opportunities. These include LaunchCode’s program LaunchCode Women+, an education program designed to engage and educate women, trans, non-binary and gender non-conforming individuals in the local technology community, as well as Missouri Women in Trades, which helps people enter careers in construction and building trades.

Advocacy in Action Barbara Baker gave birth to her son Eric in 1976, a time when she was still cycling in and out of incarceration. She was only allowed a few days in the hospital with him. “At the end of five days, he went out one door with my mother and I went out another door with a prison guard,” she says. “It was a very sad time.” Baker remembers coping with postpartum depression after Eric’s birth. “I would cry all the time,” she says. But after each release, Baker would reconnect with Eric and her daughter, Tiffany. Her parole address was always her mother’s house, where both of her children were also staying. “Everybody is not that lucky, though,” says Baker. More than half of women in state prisons have a child under the age of

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18, according to the Sentencing Project. Many incarcerated women are also the primary caretakers of minor children and face a high risk of losing custody. Baker now knows how much her children suffered during their years apart. “I never thought that my incarceration affected my kids, but I found that out when I started doing this work about the shame and the guilt and the feelings of abandonment they had,” Baker says. Baker has used her experiences to advocate for other women in her situation today. In 2021, the Missouri legislature passed two bills that helped diminish the impact of incarceration on women and families. The Feminine Hygiene Bill provides tampons to incarcerated women and the Primary Caretaker Bill encourages diversion from incarceration for nonviolent female offenders with children. Just one year later, the legislature approved a bill that will create a prison nursery for incarcerated moms — legislation that will allow incarcerated women to care for and bond with their child for up to 18 months in a correctional facility. But despite those major successes, Keyway sees much more work to be done in Missouri. The state’s partial ban on access to the Supplemental Nutrition Assistance Program following incarceration and full ban on access to Temporary Assistance for Needy Families following felony convictions for drug use directly harm the families of women in prison. Keyway’s advocacy advisory board continues to highlight the need for new legislation, urging better mental health services, access to substance use treatment and healthcare by showing the important role they play in reducing recidivism, among other

things. Currently, Baker is trying to pass Clean Slate legislation in Missouri, which would automatically expunge nonviolent felony convictions after a certain period. “We have a lot of women that come to Keyway that have some really great skills,” Baker says. “But because of that record, they can’t get a good job, and that shouldn’t be.” At this time, only about 1 percent of Missourians are successful in obtaining expungement. Though many are eligible, the process is arduous and expensive. Missouri House Bill 352, the “Clean Slate” bill, would also lift the ban on Supplemental Nutrition Assistance Program benefits for people with felony drug convictions. Baker’s lived experience as a woman who’s been in prison makes her an especially effective advocate with lawmakers. “It absolutely informs her perspective and lends extra credibility to her advocacy efforts,” says Jeff Smith, a lobbyist in Jefferson City who is also part of Keyway’s advocacy board. Smith, a former Democratic elected official, has lived experience as an exprisoner himself. He spent a year in prison for lying to federal investigators and even wrote a book about it: Mr. Smith Goes to Prison: What My Year Behind Bars Taught Me About America’s Prison Crisis. Baker meets monthly with Smith and other advocacy board members to address gender-specific barriers for people coming out of prison. From there, Smith helps create Keyway’s yearly legislative agenda and find potential legislative sponsors. Later, Keyway clients and staff provide testimony — something Smith says Baker is particularly good at. “She inspires people to want to be a part of an effort and team and realize the possibilities of engagement,” he says. Baker has spent time with many other politicians while working as the advocacy director at Keyway, including former St. Louis Circuit Attorney Kim Gardner and St. Louis County Prosecutor Wesley Bell, who is currently running for Congress. A picture in her office shows the three of them at an STL Alliance for Reentry conference, an annual summit that provides professional development, networking and resources for organizations that provide services for justice-involved individuals. Each year, Baker organizes a day when Keyway staff and clients can come to Jefferson City to meet with lawmakers, too. “It’s always a good experience meeting with them,” says Baker. “Even if they’re not going to do anything about it, they’re going to listen to you.”


Baker, in her office, knows the power in saying “I was where you are.” | THEO WELLING

‘A Great Need’ Looking back on her 25 years at Keyway, Barbara Baker remembers all the people she’s helped — many of whom were once in a situation just like hers. “I can name several off the top of my head that have been in and out like myself,” she says. “Since they came to the program, they haven’t looked back. They’re in the community and doing great.” One of those women is Sandra Barfield, now the house manager at Sharon House. Barfield came to Keyway from the Fulton Community Supervision Center, the first all-women’s supervision center in Missouri that helps people on probation or parole learn life skills. After Barfield’s parole officer put her in touch with Keyway, Barfield filled out an application. She came to the program two years ago and focused on maintaining her sobriety and her relationship with her children. She also attended weekly peersupport sessions with Baker to address past traumas. “A lot of people want to push back from society,” says Barfield, 41. “They combat their emotions with drugs.” After completing Keyway’s programming, Barfield transferred to Sharon House. In January of 2023, she applied to be the live-in house manager and was offered the job. Now she helps Keyway participants with their own journeys reentering society. “It helps put people at ease being able to say, ‘I was where you are,’” says Barfield. In the living room at Sharon House, Barfield and Baker sometimes catch up on television shows during their spare time. Throughout the week, Baker also records some of her favorite shows at her home in north city,

including comedies like Seinfeld and King of Queens. On the weekends, Baker says she likes to visit friends at a nearby beauty shop. “We like to hang out and laugh and joke,” she says. She also frequently hangs out with her family, including her son and daughter, as well as her six grandchildren and five great-grandchildren. Sometimes, they take family trips to different states. She has lowkey plans for her retirement. “I told my daughter, I’m just having a retirement party and that’s it,” says Baker. “I don’t want to go out of town or anything.” But before she retires, Baker will travel with Keyway’s team to Jefferson City to advocate for the Clean Slate Bill. “I hope to see that pass before I retire,” she says. “And I hope Keyway is able to stay open, because there’s a great need.” At this time, Keyway can only serve 150 women per year, just about 35 percent of the applicants who are interested. In addition, the organization can only house 65 people. Baker would like to see a capacity for more — to help more people just like her. “If it had not been for this program and people having faith in me, I couldn’t have done it,” Baker says. n Keyway is hosting a fundraiser in honor of Baker’s retirement: 25 hours to donate for her 25 years of service. The fundraiser starts at 10 a.m. on February 22. See keywaycenter.org for more details. This story was commissioned by the River City Journalism Fund, which seeks to advance journalism in St. Louis. See rcjf.org for more info.

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If you’re curious about “burlesque ballet,” Aurora St. Louis has the hookup. | COURTESY AURORA STL

ent, and Gibson’s take on it is one you shouldn’t miss. The Field House Museum (634 South Broadway) will host Gibson from 1 to 2 p.m. on Friday, February 16. The building, a National Historic Landmark, was home to Roswell M. Field, one of the attorneys who filed Dred Scott’s freedom suit. Attendance is free both in person and on Zoom, but space is limited. Make reservations in advance through Eventbrite, by calling the museum at 314-421-4689, or by emailing info@fieldhousemuseum. org. Visit fieldhousemuseum.org for more information.

Take a break from City Museum’s caves to check out the work of Black artists . | JONNIE THE GRACIOUS

THURSDAY 02/15

Black to the Future A new art exhibit celebrating the talent of Black artists in St. Louis has opened at Beatnik Bob’s inside City Museum (750 North 16th Street). On display now through Sunday, March 3, Blessed by the Ancestors is a testament to the cultural heritage and creativity of St. Louis’ Black community. The exhibit explores themes such as identity, heritage, resilience and the connections between artists and their ancestors through a mixture of paintings, sculptures, mixed-media pieces and other forms of visual art. Curated by local artist Brock Seals, it’s full of thought-provoking pieces that aim to challenge societal norms by celebrating the beauty of Black culture. Blessed by the Ancestors aims to provide a platform for local artists to contribute to the ongoing dialogue

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around representation in the art world and share their work. Expect to find art by Joy Walker, Kennedi Stewart, Jazzy Joan and more. This exhibit aims not only to showcase St. Louis talent but also to serve as a place for reflection. The exhibit can be viewed during regular City Museum hours (Thursday through Sunday from 10 a.m. to 9 p.m.) with purchase of a general admission ticket ($20). For more information, visit citymuseum.org.

FRIDAY 02/16

The Last Word Spend the afternoon downtown this weekend for an author talk with St. Louis writer Vivian Gibson, whose 2020 memoir The Last Children of Mill Creek captures her childhood neighborhood from a young girl’s perspective. She shares the experiences

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Green Light Vivian Gibson wrote the book on Mill Creek Valley. | COVER ART

of ordinary people — her friends and family and neighbors — who made the historically Black enclave a bustling, tightly knit community before the city displaced thousands in the name of “urban renewal.” The story of Mill Creek is integral to St. Louis’ past and pres-

Rejoice, bi-state consumers of plantbased intoxicants, for there is a new peddler of such wares opening this week in your midst. Revolution Dispensary (2533 Vandalia Street, Collinsville, Illinois) is sending up the smoke signals to welcome all in the area to celebrate its new Illinois location with a ribbon-cutting ceremony on Friday, February 16. The festivities start at 8:30 a.m. with coffee, tea and pastries from the Coffee Box, followed by grand-opening giveaways at 9 a.m. Wings, loaded fries, burgers and more


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will be available for purchase from Big Meechies Food Truck beginning at 10:30 a.m., with the ribbon cutting at 11. Shoppers visiting during the grand-opening celebration will be able to enjoy exclusive deals and discounts as well, though Revolution has so far been mum about the specific details. During the event, guests will also have the opportunity to explore Revolution’s curated range of top-tier cannabis products including flower, vapes, edibles and concentrates in a welcoming and highly knowledgeable environment. All the freebies and food will be available while supplies last, and it’s free to attend. For more information, visit revcanna.com.

SATURDAY 02/17

All’s Fair What better way to spend a Saturday evening than by going to a burlesque ballet? If you’re like us and don’t have an answer to that question, then consider checking out In Fair Verona, a queer retelling of Romeo and Juliet at Aurora St. Louis (7413 South Broadway). Produced by artist and burlesque performer Auralie Wilde, the retelling takes place in “a glittering world of forbidden love.” The pro-

duction “explores passion, identity and the transcendent power of desire,” according to press materials, and follows themes of love and liberation. The performance will take place from 7 to 10 p.m. on Saturday, February 17, with performers Immodest Proposal, BubbleLuscious, Oberon, Black Girl Magic, Madame Smash and Isis the Entertainer. Tickets are $21.25. For more information, visit aurorastl. com/tickets/p/infairverona.

Blood and Roses With Valentine’s Day finally upon us, nothing says “I love you” like a terrifying trip to the a haunted house. This Saturday, February 17, the Darkness Haunted House (1525 South Eighth Street) will play host to its annual My Bloody Valentine Date Night, a blood-curdlingly romantic affair sure to make your date scream thanks to terrifying and all-new renovated scenes, animations and more. From 6 to 9 p.m. the horror-filled evening will provide guests with the scariest date night of the year, complete with festive Valentine’s Day candies and free photo opportunities (you have to keep some of the romance alive, after all). The event is limited to 1,250 guests, with tickets starting at $34.95. For an extra $5, take on the new five-minute

Let nearly dying of fright at the Darkness be your post-Valentine’s aphrodisiac. | VIA SCAREFEST

“serial killer escape” to see if you and your sweetie will survive the holiday. For more information and to purchase tickets, visit the Darkness’ website at thedarkness.com.

TUESDAY 02/20

Works Every Time What is Lando Calrissian doing in St. Louis this week? A great question it is, one whose answer involves Black History Month, the St. Louis County Library and a new book by actor Billy Dee Williams, famous for his groundbreaking portrayal of Calrissian in the actually good Star Wars movies of the 1980s, among other roles. Williams’ new book What Have We Here? offered the perfect reason to bring him to the Skip Viragh Center for the Arts (425 South Lindbergh Boulevard) for a conversation with beloved KSDK news anchor Rene Knott, who like Williams is a dapper man adept at charming even audiences that might resist concepts like Black History Month in these ugly times. The evening begins at 7 p.m. on Tuesday, February 20. Tickets are $37 at eventbrite.com and include a pre-

Billy Dee Williams is throwing down with KSDK’s Rene Knott this Tuesday. | COVER ART

signed copy of Williams’ book; bring a friend willing to share a book and your combined ticket total is just $45. Note that they’re first come, first served, so by now your odds of seeing this Hollywood legend may be growing slim. Make haste! Details at facebook.com/ events/917813653310843. n

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Highlights from Chilanguita’s menu include street tacos, birria pizza, guacamole and carne asada. | MABEL SUEN

A Fiesta in South City Mexico City-inspired Chilanguita is colorful and zesty — just the thing to banish your winter blues BY ALEXA BEATTIE Chilanguita Mexican Kitchen 6997 Chippewa Street, 314-833-3055. Mon.Sat. 11 a.m. to 1 a.m.; Sun. 11 a.m.-11 p.m.

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hy reach for a top-shelf margarita when the “house” at Chilanguita Mexican kitchen smacks? Granted, some of the fancy ones come — fetchingly — with little flags in their limes; others, rosy in fish bowls, have copper-colored salt around their rims. But one sip of the plain old house (its punch, its hightest, gasoliney fume) and Chippewa in

Oscar Elias (left) and Marco Belmont own Chilanguita with Jose Vladimir Ramirez (not pictured). | MABEL SUEN

St. Louis on a Tuesday night in winter slides — nice and easy — right out of the frame. When we went, an ice-wind was whisking off the River des Peres. As we pulled into a spot out front, we

weren’t entirely sure of our destination’s curb appeal. La Chilanguita is humble-looking, no airs. But we were sad and cold, in need of something to warm us; there was a cozy glow in the windows, festive music tinkling out.

Sold. “I think we’re good,” I said. By which time, I was wrestling with my seatbelt, yanking open my door and pole-vaulting into the vestibule to find jolly Mexican music on the stereo, and diners posing with their platters for photos taken by smiley waitstaff. This is a party, and even though you weren’t technically invited, everyone seems perfectly glad you came. Chilanguita Mexican Kitchen opened early last summer in the Lindenwood Park neighborhood in the space once occupied by River’s Edge Social and Afandi Sweets & Cafe. It’s the debut restaurant from longtime local industry veteran Oscar Elias, who teamed up to open the place with Marco Belmont and Jose Vladimir Ramirez, all of whom have roots in Mexico City. And, based on the mood and decor here, it’s where their hearts are. You feel the tug of “home” in the memorabilia — masks and other artifacts from places including Oaxaca and Tulum — and in the strikingly large prints with Dia de los Muer-

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The bar features no fewer than 15 variations on a margarita. | MABEL SUEN

Chilanguita’s guacamole is a great place to start. | MABEL SUEN

CHILANGUITA Continued from pg 23

tos themes. And you can’t fail to be dazzled by the profusion of (fabric) flowers. They sprout thickly from walls and around doorways and fairly whoop “carnival!” For a time, Elias and Belmont worked together at El Burro Loco in the Central West End, and its colorful vibe is very much in evidence here. If guacamole happens to be an early indicator of quality, this one — given a pinch more salt — has good news to tell. It’s bright, nicely chunked and delicately peppered. The chips hold up well. Not too fragile, not too thick. Street tacos also are a good litmus test. And the twosome on the combo plato, pinched by little bamboo skewers, certainly pass — though beware the oil down your frock. Yes, the pork al pastor (spit-roasted pork shoulder) in particular was a little greasy. But is it naughty to say, deliciously so? In any event, it’s a trade-off — the meat’s deep yet gentle heat, the chew of the extremely fresh corn tortilla, make this an unctuous snack. The chorizo version inches in the other direction. It’s drier, but ruddy with pimentón and smoky with paprika, it nonetheless has a pleasing bounce. Oddly, the shrimp taco seemed more mayonnaisy than sour-cream-y, and could have been zestier squeezed more liberally with lime. The shrimps were a little … shrimpy, but were aided by squiggles of pickled onion, jewels of cubed mango and a smattering of bright cilantro. Birria pizza is a thing these days, and we jigged to find it here. It’s the size of a 45-pound weight, but thankfully, much lighter. Both the cheese and thin St. Louis-style crust take a backseat to gorgeous tufts of slowcooked, tender beef. It arrives with a delicate consommé for dipping. Or — because you can’t have too much of that good thing — go whole

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The tacos, shown here stuffed with birria and served with rice, are worthy of your time and appetite. | MABEL SUEN

hog and have the birria platter. Simmered long and slow in an adobo of vinegar, dried chiles, herbs and spices (cumin, thyme, etc.), this beef ’s warm, saucy succulence feels like just the thing for a winter night. Birria also makes an appearance in a ramen soup. The chile relleno might need a tweak. This dish isn’t known for its beauty, but this one’s a saggy slipper. It crowded out its more delicate companions on a sample plate, and the egg batter had the whiff of funnel cake. But on the inside — and making up for its blousy appearance — was a glossy, ink-green chile, silky rich and oozy with cheese. And don’t disregard the refried beans. Oft overlooked, the ones from Chilanguita’s kitchen have depth of flavor and are comfortingly creamed.

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Speaking of funnel cake: Is there incongruity to the blue-flashing, fairground claw machine in the corner (the kind that ratchets down to grab — though rarely captures — some garish, boggle-eyed toy)? No, not really. This one’s filled with candy and what may have been indoor party poppers. It only adds to the mood: fun for all ages. Fun for all tastes. The other half of this space is a bar. Needless to say, it is equally convivial, maybe even more so. Choose from 15 margaritas (or try them all?). Prickly pear’s on the list, as is jalapeño and pomegranate. Have a “monster.” Have a “jumbo.” Or stick a straw in a pitcher, why not? It’s cozy in here, dimly lit, pinky with neon signs. “Feed me tacos and tell me I’m pretty,” is the charm-

ingly blithe kind of thing they say. If we’re not back for the food (which we will be) and the prickly pear margarita (which we will be), we’ll return when the weather is warm and the light is going down. We’ll ask for a seat on the patio because that’s where things get a little magical — where 30 or more fairy-lit, hand-held rain umbrellas string across the night. It’s a sweet (Mexico City) idea — whimsical and joyous. There’s no rain on this parade. Send tips and feedback to Alexa Beattie at abeattie@riverfronttimes.com.

Chilanguita Mexican Kitchen Guacamole $6 95 2 Tacos $11 95 Birria Pizza $26 95


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Comet Bakery serves up croissants, cookies, Danishes and coffee in Kirkwood. | ZACHARY LINHARES

[FOOD NEWS]

So Much the Butter Comet Bakery offers dazzling croissants in its new Kirkwood location BY JESSICA ROGEN

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he secret to the croissant at Comet Bakery (640 West Woodbine, Kirkwood; cometcoffeestl.com) is butter. Not a normal croissant level of butter, but a truly astonishing quantity. “It has a tremendous amount of butter,” says Kyle Shelby, Comet’s lead baker. “It’s a very American-style croissant.” “It has more butter in it than any other croissant I’ve ever had,” agrees Natalie Suntrup. “I’ve worked in Europe and … the Bay area. I’ve tried a lot of different croissants and made them, and I couldn’t believe how much butter they were folding into their croissants.” Plus, she adds, the Comet croissant goes through a gradual proofing at room temperature, which adds flavor and complexity. Those two things result in a product with deep caramelization and lots of different levels of flavors, while all that butter makes it both shatteringly crisp and flaky, yet tender. It’s why customers at the bakery’s Tower Grove Farmers Market stand

have been telling the duo that it’s the best croissant in St. Louis. And it’s why St. Louisans should be incredibly psyched that the stand led to Shelby and Suntrup opening their brickand-mortar bakery in Kirkwood last month. One of two Comet locations — the other is the coffee shop on Oakland Avenue at the edge of Dogtown — the bakery has a slightly different model than most places where you can pick up a croissant in town. For one, it’s hyper-focused on the pastry in a way that Shelby compares to a doughnut shop. That means you can stop in for one of the pair’s croissant varieties (the classic, pistachio, ham and cheese, pain au chocolat, almond or a morning bun) or a cookie (ginger molasses or chocolate chip) and a cup of good drip coffee. But that’s it. And that’s the point. “It’s like a jam session, a bunch of people making one thing really well and nerding out about it,” Shelby says. Just like a doughnut shop, Comet Bakery is mostly a takeaway business, but it does have three seats for in-house customers. It’s a model and setup that speaks to the operation’s backstory. Everything began when Shelby and Suntrup met working at Union Loafers. Shelby, who hails from a town in southeast Kansas called, amusingly, Iowa, started in December 2021 and had previously been a barista at the Comet Coffee cafe. Suntrup, who is from Wildwood but has lived and worked from the Bay Area to Copenhagen, joined Union Loafers last January. They got to talking about croissants. “Him and I were like, ‘Hey, I think it could be cool to learn the type of

Natalie Suntrup and Kyle Shelby are the lead bakers at Comet Bakery. | ZACHARY LINHARES

“It’s like a jam session, a bunch of people making one thing really well and nerding out about it.” croissants they’re making at Comet,’” Suntrup says. “And so we started talking with the folks that were there and, yeah, landed ourselves a job.” The two bakers’ first goal after starting at Comet Coffee was to make more croissants by improving production and to consistently get good results. Soon they realized that they were making more than could be sold at the coffee shop. “We just needed to do something else,” Shelby says. “We wanted to get a little more creative with what we were doing, and we knew the farmers’ market would be a good outlet for that,” Suntrup says,

adding that it helped them build up production and get some cash flow. Around that time, Comet Coffee founders Mark Attwood and Stephanie Fischer were thinking about selling the business, which was ultimately purchased by Tim and Matt Garvey of Pretzel Boy. The new owners approached the bakers and asked if they’d like to reopen the business’ second location in Kirkwood, which had been used for production only since COVID-19, for walk-in business. The answer, of course, was a resounding yes. Suntrup and Shelby got to work building a “supergroup” crew where everyone got trained on each part of the operation (no high schoolers manning the register here). They opened on January 3. It’s a relatively fast turnaround from idea to opening, but it’s a positive thing for the duo. “It feels good,” Shelby says. “I have noticed how grateful people are that we’re back open,” Suntrup adds. “We hope to just get busier. We hope people find out about it and come in and order boxes of croissants.” n

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[FOOD NEWS]

Tough Old Bird The Shaved Duck is back after a prolonged closure, with new owners and the same old favorites BY SARAH FENSKE

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bit over a year ago, catastrophe struck one of St. Louis’ most loved barbecue restaurants. Since opening in 2008, the Shaved Duck (2900 Virginia Avenue) had been a favorite of both its Tower Grove East neighbors and food writers across the U.S. Guy Fieri even named it Missouri’s best barbecue. But the terrible cold snap that gripped St. Louis around Christmas of 2022 caused a pipe in its building to burst. A restaurant manager walked in to find not only a flood but a collapsed ceiling from all the water damage. And so it was curtains for the Shaved Duck — until now. Recently, word began to spread among neighbors and barbecue lovers: The Shaved Duck is back. And for once, the rumors are true — the restaurant quietly opened its doors in November, with new owners and a fresh look. Two of the three owners come from another successful spot in town. James Heredia and Joshua Powlishta

are co-owners of BLT’s (an acronym for Breakfast, Lunch and Tacos) in downtown St. Louis. The third member of their trio, Adam Kaufman, had previously worked with Heredia, and Heredia was a manager at the Shaved Duck for six years prior to its closure. It’s one reason Heredia jumped when the restaurant’s longtime owner, Ally Nisbet (also known for the Scottish Arms) was ready to sell. “Ally is a good friend of mine,” he says. “Sometimes in the restaurant business, you’ve just got to move on.” He adds, “He wouldn’t have done it unless somebody knew somebody who was willing to take over but would keep it the same. He knew I’d be that person. I want to focus on making the food exactly what it was — and exactly what it needs to be.” That’s one reason, Heredia explains, that the restaurant kept its soft opening so damn soft. After nearly a year of being totally closed, with a largely new staff to train, the owners wanted to get everything up to par before diners beyond the eatery’s superfan base stopped by for a meal. He finally thinks they’re there. There is one small hiccup, though, and that is the city’s onerous process for new liquor licenses. They still don’t have one, despite hiring someone to shepherd them through the various hurdles laid down by city ordinance. Heredia is hopeful it will be just a few more months at the most. And in the meantime, he hopes people will support their efforts by ordering takeout or delivery if they really want a drink with their barbecue. He says, “We tried to go BYOB for now, but you have to go through all

Shaved Duck’s new owners Adam Kaufman, left, Joshua Powlishta and James Heredia. | ZACHARY LINHARES

the same stops as your regular liquor license, so this will just be one of those things that’ll keep us pushing our food for now. It’s a little wrench, but not a big wrench.” And even stone cold sober, the diners who’ve tried the new Shaved Duck seem stoked. Heredia says the feedback lately has been great, and he’s thrilled to bring a local landmark back to its many fans. “It’s a St. Louis institution, and it belongs to St. Louis,” he says. “We just want to keep it going and keep that

[FOOD NEWS]

Just Like Gold Smokestaq Lightning brings old-school BBQ to Laclede’s Landing BY JESSICA ROGEN

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aclede’s Landing just got a little more delicious. A new barbecue joint, Smokestaq Lightning, from Shaw’s now-departed Five Aces Bar-B-Que, is in its soft launch at 724 North First Street. Co-owner Latoshia Ellis tells the RFT that Smokestaq Lightning first opened its doors on December 20 and is serving lunch 11 a.m. to 1:30 p.m. Monday through Friday with the goal of being full service in the spring. Like Five Aces, the new concept from Ellis and her husband Antonio is centered around what she calls authentic St. Louis barbecue. “We smoke foods the old-school way,

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Latoshia and Antonio Ellis’ prior concept, Five Aces, was renowned for its barbecue in Shaw. | MABEL SUEN

like over open flame using charcoal and wood,” she explains. “So we’re down here on Laclede’s Landing and just bringing authentic smoke and flavor to the St. Louis area.” Ellis’ favorite menu item right now is

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the smoked brisket Philly, which is basically what it sounds like. It subs smoked brisket for the original ribeye steak, which “just takes it up another level.” Other menu items include fried wings, rib tips, baby back ribs, burgers, pulled-

tradition alive. It’s amazing how many people are coming from not just St. Louis but all over the country, even now, people from all over are coming to the Shaved Duck.” For now, hours are 4 to 10 p.m. Tuesday through Saturday, though the restaurant sometimes closes early on slow days. They hope to expand to seven days a week and bring back brunch in the coming months, probably dependent on that liquor license. Says Heredia in a note of understatement, “St. Louis likes to drink.” n meat sandwiches, sides and more — all of which can be ordered ahead of time through Smokestaq’s website. The restaurant’s name, Ellis says, is an homage to the food and the eatery’s location in a historic building full of old wood. “We’re right here on the muddy Mississippi on the riverfront, and we love blues music,” she says. “We have a little stage here, and we plan on having live music and things like that. One of our old favorite blue singers is Howlin’ Wolf, the song ‘Smokestack Lightning’ was the old blues classic. And so we thought about [how] our grill has a huge smokestack on it. … We’re bringing the smoke, we’re bringing in lightning, all down to the riverfront.” The couple previously owned Five Aces Bar-B-Que at the corner of Shaw Boulevard and Lawrence. They took up the reins there after buying out what was then Mama Josephine’s in 2016 from Mary Samuelson. They continue to operate a food truck under the name. Keep an eye on Smokestaq’s social media profiles for details about the full opening. More information at smokestaq. com. n


JANUARY OPENINGS & CLOSINGS BY PAULA TREDWAY

Owner and pitmaster David Sandusky’s new concept is a break from tradition for the BBQ pro. | MABEL SUEN

[FOOD NEWS]

We Meat Again Beast Craft BBQ owners to open Smoke & Kettle in Fairview Heights BY SARAH FENSKE

Three Sixty opened its swanky new location in Maryland Heights on January 31. | VIA 360 WESTPORT

OPENINGS Stews Food & Liquor, Soulard 360 Westport, Maryland Heights Telva at the Ridge, Webster Groves Ivy Express, Clayton J+B Wellness, Wildwood Sugarfire Smoke House, Florissant Kitchen Conservatory, Brentwood

SARAH FENSKE’S

FISH & CHIPS PICKS Whether you’re a Catholic compelled to avoid meat on Fridays during Lent or just a pescatarian looking for a slightly less healthy way to get your protein, you

Comet Bakery, Kirkwood

CLOSINGS Southern, Midtown brassWell, the Grove Cinder House, Downtown Benedetto’s on Main, Wildwood Chirco’s Pizza, Chesterfield Taco Circus, Clayton

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cclaimed pitmaster David Sandusky earned national recognition for Beast Craft BBQ (20 South Belt West, Belleville). But the new concept he plans to open this coming month is something quite different: an operation embedded within a Knights of Columbus Hall in Fairview Heights, Illinois. Smoke & Kettle (5420 Old Collinsville Road, Fairview Heights, Illinois) will offer a fish- and chicken-forward menu — just in time for Lent, which begins on Wednesday, February 14, this year. Options will include catfish, cod and shrimp, as well as some barbecue for good measure. Sandusky describes the restaurant he’ll be opening on site as a counter-ser-

can’t go wrong with a good plate of fish and chips. This British favorite may look heavy on the deep-fried brown, but a well-executed plate combines a symphony of flavors — flaky fish, salty fries, a creamy dipping sauce and maybe even a vegetable. Here are my five St. Louis favorites.

lamb burger at Dressel’s Pub (419 North Euclid Avenue), the fish and chips is a terrific alternative, with Norwegian haddock that critic Alexa Beattie describes as bearing “blisteringly clean, snowy flesh.” It comes with pickles and what the Brits would call “crisps” — more akin to potato chips than fries.

The Scottish Arms My personal go-to during Lent, the fish and chips platter at the Scottish Arms (8 South Sarah Street) features Atlantic haddock deep-fried in a batter featuring local Civil Life ale. It comes with peas, fries, a housemade tartar sauce and, critically, malt vinegar, which brings the whole melange together.

Gulf Shores Restaurant & Grill A local N’awlins-inflected seafood juggernaut, Gulf Shores Restaurant & Grill (three locations including 12528 Olive Blvd, Creve Coeur) offers no fewer than six different fish options in its fish and chips, from catfish to classic cod to grouper. Opt for the “taste of three” to compare and contrast, but whatever you do, don’t sleep on the red snapper. All too rare on local menus, its sweet and slightly nutty flesh is a true treat.

Dressel’s Pub If you can somehow resist ordering a

vice operation seating 30-40. He plans regular hours beginning with Wednesdays and Fridays in Lent and later expanding. But it’s the banquet hall at the Knights of Columbus Club & Event Center that really has Sandusky excited. It seats 300. “We’re really going to establish our catering and events in a way we’ve never been able to do before because we never had the facility,” he says. “We’re really good at it. Now we have the ability put people in seats.” Sandusky and his wife and co-owner Meggan have opened concepts in nontraditional venues after the pandemic downturn led to the closure of their ambitious second location in the Grove, Beast Butcher & Block. They’re now at CityPark stadium, where they do a brisk business at City SC games, and also on the campus of Washington University. Sandusky is excited to serve the Knights of Columbus — or anyone who’d want to stop by their hall for a good meal. “It’s a cool way to connect with the community in a different way,” he says. “We’re going to meet new people at a place they’re already going — and give them something different.” n

Schlafly Tap Room The menu varies at the different Schlafly brewpubs around the region, but the “fish & fries” is a constant, for good reason. Three generous filets of cod, battered in the brewery’s own Hefeweizen, are served with a pile of fries, both pleasantly mushy, and a caper-forward tartar sauce. For the best classic pub vibes, hit the Schlafly Tap Room (2100 Locust Street). Square One Brewery A dark-paneled Lafayette Square mainstay since 2006, Square One Brewery & Distillery (1727 Park Avenue) serves up a fish and chips with an impressively crisp coating sheltering the tender cod inside. Along with fries, the dish comes with a remoulade sauce for a hint of New Orleans.

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[WEED NEWS]

Direct Support Missouri marijuana revenue will bring in nearly $20 million to support veterans this year BY REBECCA RIVAS

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he Missouri Veterans Commission will likely receive about $19 million from marijuana sales revenue before the current fiscal year is over on July 1, Amy Moore, director of the Division of Cannabis Regulation, told a House committee this month. Next year it will be $22 million, she said, if the governor’s budget recommendations are approved. “The governor’s recommendation is quite a bit more than expected,” Moore told members of the House Veterans Committee, “and that is tied to the unexpectedly robust sales, mostly on the adult-use side.” Since Missouri’s marijuana sales began in 2019, the state has collected more than $150 million in revenue from taxes and program fees, according to a presentation Moore shared with the committee. Etched in the state’s constitution is a road map for where the revenue can go. The first stop is operational costs. By law, any expense it takes to run both medical and recreational marijuana programs — like salaries or professional services — all must be paid for through marijuana revenues. The division has received nearly $50 million to cover its operating expenses, the presentation shows. After expenses, the constitutional amendment that legalized medical marijuana in 2018 mandated that revenues from medical sales go toward the Missouri Veterans Commission. To date, nearly $40 million in medical marijuana sales revenue has gone to the commission — including $13 million this year. The revenue road map is a bit different for the adult-use marijuana program, defined in Amendment 3, which was approved by voters in November 2022. After paying operational costs, the next draw on the fund is expenses

In Missouri, smoking weed counts as supporting the troops. | VIA FLICKR/BOB DORAN

incurred by the court system for expunging certain marijuana offenses from people’s criminal records. After that, revenues are split three ways: supporting veterans, funding drug addiction treatment programs and adding to the Missouri Public Defenders System’s budget. So far, each of these funds has received $1.3 million, Moore said, but the governor is also proposing an additional $5 million to each in his supplemental budget recommendation for this year. All together that would be $19.3 million going to support veterans this year: $13 million from medical marijuana sales and $6.3 million from adult-use. Moore said the governor’s budget recommendations for next fiscal year includes an additional $7.8 million — putting the total at $22 million. State Representative Dave Griffith, a Republican from Jefferson City and the Veterans Committee chairman, said the numbers are encouraging. “The amount of sales that they’ve had with commercial marijuana has been just record-breaking and exceeded all expectations and projections,”

he said. “Because of that, there’s going to be even more money into that pool than what they projected right after [Amendment 3] passed.” The Missouri Veterans Commission has three core responsibilities, Griffith said: maintaining the state’s veterans homes and cemeteries and providing service officers to assist veterans with their benefits. Griffith said his goal is to get the commission’s annual allocation up to $50 million that wouldn’t be reliant on marijuana revenue. Before Moore’s presentation, the committee discussed the challenges that some veterans face obtaining their benefits. The state needs more service officers to assist them, he said, and that’s why the funding is so important. “Many of them, they’re so overburdened with their caseloads that it’s hard to get in with them,” Griffith said. “If we can increase the number we have, we can start trying to cut down on that wait time many veterans have.” n This story was first published by the Missouri Independent.

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CULTURE

[HISTORY]

Onscreen Chemistry Oppenheimer gives former Wash U professor Joseph W. Kennedy his Hollywood moment BY PAULA TREDWAY

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or actor Troy Bronson, portraying a former chemistry professor at Washington University brought new insights into history — and science, too. Joseph W. Kennedy played a key role in discovering plutonium in 1941, when he was in his early 20s. He later became a division leader in the Manhattan Project before becoming a professor and chairman of the department of chemistry at Washington University from 1946 to 1956, according to the university. It’s through Kennedy’s work on the Manhattan Project that he became immortalized in Christopher Nolan’s blockbuster film Oppenheimer. Oppenheimer, which won the award for Best Motion Picture at the Golden Globes on January 7, chronicles the career of J. Robert Oppenheimer, who directed the Manhattan Project during World War II. Kennedy is portrayed by Bronson, who coincidentally is himself studying at the University of California in Berkeley, the same place where Kennedy received his Ph.D. in 1939. “I’m studying media sciences where I’m investigating the relationships between technology, culture and media from the printing press to the current digital era,” Bronson says. “I’m always being pushed to understand how stories like Joseph W. Kennedy’s are appreciated in our complex modern context, which is why this profession interests and pushes me so much.” Through his research, Bronson learned that Kennedy was of immense importance to discovering plutonium, which was crucial to the Manhattan Project and continues to shape the space exploration and energy sectors today. “I tracked him all the way up until his death starting from the place where he was born in Nacogdoches, Texas, and all the way up to St. Louis at [Wash U],” Bronson says of the re-

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Joseph W. Kennedy was a division leader on the Manhattan Project. | COURTESY PHOTO

Troy Bronson played former Wash U professor Joseph W. Kennedy in Oppenheimer. | CHARLIE LAMARE

search he undertook to understand Kennedy’s life and work. “I relied a lot on Atomic Energy, papers and websites. I also went to the plutonium room over here at UC Berkeley, where he discovered plutonium.” Kennedy’s work at Wash U is not something the film touches on, but it continues to make an impact on the campus. The university’s Kennedy Lecture Series was named in his honor; there’s also a portrait of him hanging in the university’s Ronald and Karen Rettner Gallery in Wrighton Hall. A website for the lecture series explains this about Kennedy’s efforts on campus: “Prior to 1946, the Department of Chemistry at Washington University was small and devoted almost entirely to undergraduate teaching. With the arrival of Professor Kennedy in 1946, however, this picture changed. Bringing with him a group of young scientists, he gave the department a new orientation, and it is now recognized not only for its commitment to high quality undergraduate education, but also to strong research programs and to education at the graduate level. The national stature that the department has acquired over the past half-centu-

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ry is a direct consequence of the impetus provided by Professor Kennedy.” Wash U Professor of Chemistry and Physics Lee Sobotka elaborated on that in an email. “Joe Kennedy modernized the teaching of general chemistry, helped open the Wash U graduate school to African Americans a decade before the civil rights movement found traction, and assisted in hiring the ‘blackballed’ scientist Martin Kamen at the Wash U medical school and subsequently defended him from McCarthyite slander,” he writes. “Joe Kennedy had a profound influence on Wash U.” Unfortunately, though, Kennedy’s time on campus was relatively short. He died of stomach cancer at age 40. For Bronson, learning about his remarkable life has been a great experience. Bronson marvels that he was dressed for the film just like Kennedy was in a photo he found on his Wikipedia page. During his time on set, Bronson was able to see the University of California - Berkeley’s campus turn back in time. “My favorite part about being on set was seeing the whole Berkeley campus turn back to just like it was in 1939,” he says. “They dressed all around like

it was before, meaning that they covered lamps and stuff like that.” He adds, “Because it was filmed with 70 millimeters, meaning there weren’t a bunch of tables and a lot of technology going around, and the director had to keep looking at the camera because he didn’t have a screen to see how it turned out.” Bronson believes playing the role of Kennedy gave him a deeper connection to the complexities of scientific discovery and the pivotal moments that have shaped the world. “Not only has studying the life of one of St. Louis’ most notable persons increased my respect and comprehension of the area, but it has also brought to light the lasting impact of Kennedy’s work,” he writes in an email. “This investigation into Kennedy’s accomplishments has been more than just an acting gig; it’s been an investigation into the core of human intellect and ambition, which has caused me to consider the legacy that humans leave behind.” Bronson says he’s now hoping to travel to St. Louis one day. “I can’t wait to see the university and travel the same streets in order to get a closer look at the tale that has captured my attention for so long,” he adds. n Oppenheimer was re-released on January 26 and is currently playing at Marcus Theatres (various locations including 1830 South First Capitol Drive, St. Charles) and Alamo Drafthouse City Foundry (3765 Foundry Way). It will be coming to Hi-Pointe Theatre (1005 McCausland Avenue) Friday, February 23.


MUSIC [LEGENDS]

Batting Next at the Sheldon: The U-Man As both a KSHE DJ and the Cardinals’ PA announcer, John Ulett’s voice resonates across St. Louis. Now he’s taking the hotseat BY STEVE LEFTRIDGE

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t. Louis is a city of ardent and loyal fandom, and no two areas more demonstrate that fandom than our undying love of classic rock and the Cardinals. Each year, the St. Louis masses gather at classic rock temples of worship like Enterprise Center and Hollywood Casino Amphitheatre to revel in the music we’ve been conditioned to love by decades of KSHE radio, just as millions file into Busch Stadium every year to holler for the Redbirds. And for more than 40 years, one voice has united both worlds: the U-Man, John Ulett. Ulett has been a constant presence as a DJ on KSHE’s 94.7 FM frequency since 1976 and has been the Cardinals’ PA announcer since 1983. On February 29, Ulett will sit for a live interview at the Sheldon. Billed as Life, Death & Other Scary Things: An Evening with John Ulett, the evening promises a night of stories, music and comedy timed to commemorate Ulett’s career at KSHE as he starts to scale back after 47 years with the station. I chatted with Ulett over Zoom as he was snowbirding comfortably in Phoenix on a day that St. Louis was glazed in from an overnight ice storm. These days, Ulett spends the winter in Arizona, where his daughter recently welcomed Ulett’s first grandchild. During our talk, he was in chill mode, yet he walked around the room as we spoke, a sign of the restless energy that has kept him working, often burning the candle at both ends, for all these decades. The 67-year-old Ulett was raised on 18th street between Park and Lafayette avenues in a pre-gentrified Lafayette Square. His grandfather owned a fourfamily flat, and Ulett lived with parents and brother upstairs on one side. His maternal grandfather was an immigrant from Lebanon and his mother was Italian, and Ulett has always identified with both ethnicities. “It was heavily Lebanese,” he says. “They were all great cooks and made Lebanese food and drinks. It was a

John Ulett at the height of KSHE’s dominance. | COURTESY OF KSHE 95

great situation.” Despite mostly fond memories of growing up, Ulett remembers the times as also tumultuous, referencing the era’s civil rights struggles and the Vietnam War, for which he just missed eligibility, and the deterioration of his own neighborhood. “It was an integrated neighborhood, just west of the projects, relatively volatile,” he remembers. “The neighborhood was just collapsing, so many old buildings had condemned signs on them, and those became playgrounds for us. They were also building I-44 through there, just ripping entire neighborhoods out. It was an interesting time to grow up in St. Louis in that spot. But looking back, I wouldn’t change it for the world.” A big part of that environment was sitting on his front steps and listening to rock & roll on Top 40 radio, a preview of his life to come. “The whole art form was relatively new back then,” he says. “That’s what made it so special. It was all new and exciting and fresh. That’s what I was picking up on when I was 11 or 12 years old.” Listening to legendary Cardinals broadcaster Jack Buck on the radio made an even bigger impression. “Jack Buck sounded bigger than life,” Ulett says. “I wondered what world he lived in. I just remember sitting on the front steps of the house on 18th and just one day thinking, you know what, I want to be on the radio. I wanted to make it someday, and be on a popular radio station in my hometown and people would know my name.” The seeds had been sown, and from that point on, Ulett was a single-minded teenager, riding the bus every morning to Bishop Dubourg High School in south St. Louis more focused on his future radio career than anything going on in school. After school let out every day, he would

catch a bus downtown and then switch to a bus that carried him to Clayton to the Broadcast Center, a trade school that helped turn the kid into a disc jockey. At the Broadcast Center, the instructors pushed Ulett away from sports broadcasting, which had been his first interest, and toward music radio. But despite the future that awaited him, Ulett insists that he was never particularly aware that he had a strongly built speaking voice. In fact, he started training at Broadcast Center before his adolescent voice had even changed. “They would use the before and after recordings to recruit other students,” he says with a laugh. “They’d say, ‘Look what we did to his voice!’” While still in high school, Ulett landed his first radio job, working the evening shifts at KEZK, playing what Ulett describes as “elevator music.” “I would put on these big tapes that would play music for 13 minutes,” he recalls. “They’d stop on their own, and I would open the mic and say” — here he turns on his radio voice —“‘KEZK. All music. All the time’ and then play the commercials. I was, like, ‘This is easy, I can do this.’” After graduating from high school in 1975, Ulett grew bored with KEZK’s square format, wishing instead to play the cool music of the day. Already an experienced professional DJ at 18, Ulett eschewed any idea of college, instead taking brief stints with radio stations in St. Charles and Jefferson City until KSHE called in the spring of the bicentennial year. Recruited by station head Ron Stevens, Ulett was at first unsure that KSHE and its progressive rock radio was the best fit for him, interested as he still was in breaking into sports radio. His mother wasn’t wild about the idea either. “My mother didn’t want me to take the job because it was a drug-influenced station,”

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Ulett says, smiling. When Ulett joined the KSHE crew, the station was already established as an AOR juggernaut that played progressive rock nonstop for hours without breaks, allowed its DJs to spin whatever tickled their turntables rather than what was dictated by charts and gave airtime to music that wasn’t being played anywhere else. Ulett jumped on board about the time KSHE was helping to break midwestern bands that included REO Speedwagon, Styx and Cheap Trick. Ulett admits that the learning curve was steep. He liked music as a kid, but he was no encyclopedic aficionado. “The jocks played our own music,” he says. “We listened to the albums that came in, and we played what we liked. That’s what made the job very interesting. I had no clue that that was a major part of the job. Once I got hired there for my announcing skills, I was like, ‘Gosh, I’ve got to learn so much about the music.’” Was Ulett aware of KSHE’s influence at the time, the station’s nationwide impact, its instrumental role in helping make or break bands? “Absolutely,” he says. “We felt the magnitude of what we were doing, that we were helping these bands get airplay. We felt it in the audience and the bands. Radio was very powerful as an entity then. FM radio kept growing in stature, and we felt that success. It was enjoyable knowing that we were becoming a very important aspect of entertainment in St. Louis.” I also ask Ulett a chicken-or-egg question: Is there something about St. Louisans that makes us natural fans of longhaired arena rock of the ’70s and ’80s thereby making KSHE possible, or was it KSHE that shaped St. Louis’s classic-rockloving culture, which still lasts today? “I really think KSHE did it,” Ulett says. “The way we presented the music. The way we marketed it. Sweetmeat the pig and all that. To this day, artists who are in their 70s will say they still have their KSHE T-shirt from the ’70s with Sweetmeat on it. KSHE was unique in the way we did it. We were relentless with it. We worked the community really hard.” Ulett lists some bands that he believes he personally helped expose to wider audiences, including Yes, Supertramp, Journey and Rush, citing Rush drummer Neil Peart as one of his all-time favorite interviews. Throughout the years, Ulett has rubbed elbows with more rock stars that he can possibly remember. “We would bring in bands to the drive-in theater next to the radio station,” he says. “We were always bringing in artists and built a level of confidence with the fans that KSHE radio was the one that was really

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JOHN ULETT Continued from pg 33

supporting the music that they loved. We put on hundreds and hundreds of events.” Ulett and fellow DJ Mark Klose are the two last men standing from KSHE’s ’70s glory days. Ulett’s longevity is certainly due in part to his persistent work ethic and his unfailing nice-guy congeniality. But he also discloses another secret to his success: He didn’t go crazy with rockstar debauchery back in his youth. This is a guy who could have been partying with David Lee Roth or Steven Tyler back in the day, but he kept it together with longevity in mind. That’s true of Klose, too, he says. “Mark Klose and I were the two biggest nerds in the whole bunch,” he says. “When cocaine was everywhere, I never got into that. I was afraid of the drugs. I watched other people just disintegrate, but I was always determined to outlast these guys and do the things that kept me healthy.” Still, Ulett had his share of fun amid the wild days of sex, drugs and rock & roll: “Other than the drugs part, I was into the other two,” he says with a laugh. “We were the hot station, so it was a pretty crazy time.” For many listeners, the U-Man has been the one consistent voice on KSHE’s morning show amid dozens of personnel changes. “I knew I had to get on the morning show to make it in the business,” he says. “I volunteered to do news and sports for the morning show in 1981, and it was the most important career decision I made.” It was when local radio legend JC Corcoran was brought on in 1984 to anchor the mornings that Ulett’s profile really took off. “It just turned the radio business on its ear when he came,” Ulett says. “A crazy, fun, wild morning show was totally against what was going on at KSHE at the time. The station was lowkey and all about the music. Well, [Corcoran] came in, and he was all talk. Initially, our listeners hated what we were doing. But I knew this guy was talented and it had the potential of being really good. So the negative turned to positives. He’s the one that gave me the nickname ‘the U-Man’ when the morning show was really hot.” These days, Ulett is easing away from his morning show duties, although he still appears on a couple mornings per week for now, and he plans to continue hosting his Sunday speciality shows — Vinyl Exam with Mark Klose and KSHE Klassics — into the future. As for the Cardinals, Ulett is coming up on his 40th full season as PA announcer, a job that also came courtesy of KSHE. In 1981, Ulett volunteered to be the station’s sport reporter, which came with media credentials to Cardinals games. The Cardinals won the World Series in 1982, and Ulett fulfilled a lifelong dream of getting paid to travel with the team and report on the games. In 1983, the

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Ulett maintains a torrid pace even today. | COURTESY OF KSHE 95

stadium announcer job opened, and Ulett slid in front of the mic and has remained there for four decades. Incredibly, in those 39 seasons, he has missed only five games. “I consider it my mountain to climb every year,” he says. “When they hired me in ’83, they said they wanted somebody to do every game because they wanted fans to have the same consistent experience every time. I said I’d do it.” Ulett admits that the turnaround was tough on some of those extra-inning games that went very late when he had to get up at 4:30 a.m. to do the KSHE morning show. “I just did it,” he says with a shrug. A full-circle moment happened toward the end of his hero Jack Buck’s life when Buck gave him a picture of the two of them, signing it, “Nice working with you.” “I get choked up just thinking about it,” Ulett says. These days you still see Ulett on the field before every Cards home game, reading starting lineups and introducing special guests, still as fit and trim as he was during his youthful afro-wearing days, thanks to a regimen of running three or four 5Ks every week. “I just keep running,” he says. The show at the Sheldon was his original boss Ron Stevens’ idea, and it’s Stevens who will interview him on stage. “There’s all kinds of stuff I’ve never talked about that we’re going to get into,” Ulett says. “I promised him that whatever question he asks, I’ll answer it, whether it’s about coworkers, the radio station, management, listeners, bad things that have happened, good things that have happened.” However, Ulett promises the night at the Sheldon will involve more than just a live conversation. “It won’t be just two old guys talking on the stage,” he says. “We’re going to have some live music, a comedian, some game show type things and celebrity appearances.” And while the event does not mark a total retirement from radio, he says the evening will be “part of me trying to land this plane.” Despite that goal, however, the U-Man has no plans to slow down. The St. Louis legend doesn’t know how. He remains as he has always been: born to talk, born to rock, born to run. n


FILM

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[REVIEW]

The Passion of the Chef The Taste of Things celebrates good food, France and the ever-wonderful Juliette Binoche BY CHUCK WILSON The Taste of Things Written and directed by Tran Anh Hung. Opens on February 14.

T

he film season’s most exhilarating action sequence doesn’t feature bad guys and explosions, but simmering sauce pans and delectably steaming plates of veal. In director Tran Anh Hung’s sublime drama The Taste of Things, the long and elaborate preparation of an ornate meal on the fire stoves of a 19th century French kitchen proves to be as nourishing to watch as the food itself would be to eat. The cook, Eugénie (Juliette Binoche), who may be a genius, and her two young assistants move about the sundappled kitchen with the precision of a crack military team and the grace of Balanchine dancers. They are aided by the château’s owner, Dodin Bouffant (Benoît Magimel), a revered gourmand who declares, “The discovery of a new dish brings more joy to humanity than the discovery of a new star.” The meal that opens the film is being prepared for Dodin’s best friends, four fellow gourmets, including a doctor, who appear to move from home to home, eating well and often, and bringing news to Dodin of trends and good cooks. They are in awe of Eugénie and after finishing the meal bring praises to her in the kitchen, not realizing that she has, mere moments before, nearly fainted — from exhaustion perhaps, or worse, an undiagnosed illness. They entreat her to join them next time, but Eugénie begs off, insisting that her place is in the kitchen, preparing the next course. Besides, she says, “I converse with you in the dining room through what you eat.” Later, with the moon providing an exquisite backlight, and cinematographer Jonathan Ricquebourg’s camera gliding gently back and forth between them as if controlled by the breeze, Eugénie and Dodin sit in the garden, celebrating a successful dinner party,

In The Taste of Things, the pleasures of a good meal are front and center. | IFC FILMS

which feels like a tradition for them. Eugénie wants to invite her assistant’s niece, Pauline (Bonnie Chagneau-Ravoire), to become her protégé. The girl had astonished Dodin with her ability to name the individual ingredients in a complex sauce after only one taste. Dodin will visit the family and extend the invitation, but no, Eugénie wants to do it herself. Dodin does not argue. In this, as in most matters of import, they are equals. The business of the day attended to, Dodin takes a breath and asks, “Eugénie, may I knock at your door tonight?” A French Vietnamese filmmaker whose debut feature, The Scent of Green Papayas (1993) — the only Vietnamese film to be nominated for an Academy Award — is one of the most visually immersive films ever made, Hung has made a movie about gastronomy that is, at heart, a love story. Food and love (and France) — they’re inextricably linked. Eugénie has worked for Dodin for 20 years. They are together, but not yet fully so. He often asks her to marry him. She has always said no. For this 19th century woman, there is power, it would seem, in withholding “yes” and in a bedroom door that is sometimes locked to a lover’s knock and sometimes not. When Dodin’s guests come to the kitchen that first night to thank Eugénie and urge her to dine with them,

For this 19th century woman, there is power in withholding “yes,” and in a bedroom door that is sometimes locked to a lover’s knock and sometimes not. she describes what it’s like to taste the food as it’s being prepared for them. She’s flushed from having just been dizzy and flushed too with feeling. For a moment, Eugénie gets lost in her own reverie, as we do when talking of the thing we love most. This life, and its abundance, Binoche reveals, brings Eugénie joy. That sense of delight will return when Dodin makes a grand gesture and prepares, all on his own, a multicourse dinner for Eugénie, capped by Champagne that’s been buried at the bottom of the sea for 50 years. Eugénie, who rarely sits for a formal din-

ner, dresses in a magnificent yellow gown and lets herself be served. The meal is delicious and witty, like Dodin himself — she loves his wit. The room is lit by candles, like a scene from Barry Lyndon, but the true light comes from Binoche’s face. This performance, so deeply felt, is her crowning achievement. She is matched by Magimel, who was once Binoche’s partner in life (they share a child together), and here plays a cerebral man whose only method for wooing a woman is to describe in detail the process of digestion, a marvelously absurd speech that might trip up a lesser actor. Magimel is well served by Hung’s generosity of spirit, which makes time for individual characters to have a private interior moment, right up to the anticipatory pleasure the cook’s assistant, Violette (Galatéa Bellugi), takes in walking from the kitchen to the dining room with a special dessert meant for Eugénie. The Taste of Things was France’s entry into the Academy Awards, but it wasn’t nominated. A shame. It’s completely wonderful and is also that rare movie that you enter into fully. By the end, the vast stone kitchen is as familiar as home. The play of sunlight across that room is crazy beautiful and so peaceful you’d never want to leave. No wonder Eugénie felt such joy. n

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STAGE

37 BAND OF HORSES SAT, FEB 17

SUBTRONICS PLUS WOOLI, HEDEX, SAKA, JON CASEY, SKELLYTN

THU, FEB 22 GOODBYE YELLER BRICK ROAD, THE FINAL TOUR

LEWIS BLACK FRI, FEB 23

MUSCADINE BLOODLINE PLUS BEN CHAPMAN

SAT, FEB 24

As Lula and Clay, Eileen Engel and Cameron Jamarr move deftly through the play’s intense themes. | ZAK LITTRELL/AXZL MEDIA

[REVIEW]

Don’t Tempt Me Amiri Baraka’s Dutchman plays a daring game of truth and consequences BY TINA FARMER Dutchman Written by Amiri Bakara. Directed by Cameron Jamarr, Eileen Engel, Bradford Rolen and Zahria Moore. Presented by Soul Siren Playhouse at Greenfinch Theater & Dive (2525 South Jefferson Avenue) through Sunday, February 18. Showtimes vary, and admission is free. More information at greenfinchstl.com.

S

t. Louis theatergoers interested in challenging and entertaining drama should catch Amiri Baraka’s Dutchman, featuring Cameron Jamarr as Clay and Eileen Engel as Lula, presented by Soul Siren Playhouse. The seldomperformed yet still relevant play is an intense and pointed deconstruction of the story of Adam and Eve. This Eve also plays the snake. Clay, a Black, well-dressed professional, is riding the train home after work. During a stop, he and Lula, a casually dressed white woman standing on the platform, notice each other. Their eyes meet briefly, then she walks

away and he returns to his thoughts. Clay doesn’t see Lula board the train but she ensures she gets his attention — and interest. Lula manipulates Clay at every turn, first accusing him of staring at her ass, then flirting and teasing, then shaming, then verbally abusing and finally attacking him. She uses stereotypical assumptions to compel him to interact, but as soon as he responds she radically changes her approach. When Clay finally explodes in a well-reasoned rage that breaks down restrictive social constructs, Lula viciously turns on him before ordering the other passengers on the train to get rid of him. Settling into her seat, she notices a new passenger — a Black, well-dressed professional ... Jamarr and Engel move deftly through the emotionally and physically volatile space with complete trust in each other as performers. The two create smoldering chemistry that’s sparked by a bite from a crisp apple mimicking the sound of a match strike. Jamarr is cool, calm and in control as Clay, resisting temptation as long as he can and yet willingly surrendering to the trap he clearly sees. Engel is a manic, mercurial force with the allure of a siren and the deadly sting of Medusa. Together, they mesmerize the audience with the kind of fatalistic slow burn that you can’t turn away from, even as you fear the conclusion you sense. With just a few key elements, set designer Bradford Rolen puts audiences

inside a busy, well-used commuter train. Lighting designer Lenny Banks and sound designer De’Janna ScalesHand bring the train to life, creating a sense of crowded isolation that metaphorically underscores the story arc and themes. Soul Siren’s show is playing at Greenfinch Theatre and Dive, and the waxing and waning hum of the bar on the other side of the theater wall adds atmospheric texture to the moody, ever-shifting production. Uncomfortable truths crystallize in this sexually charged confrontation between a Black man trying to get ahead in the world and a white woman knowingly complicit with the institutions trying to push him down. Though Clay is educated and well dressed, as a Black man he finds himself alone, fighting to survive an encounter he did not seek. The story is layered and complex, heightened by the fact that, at the heart of things, little has changed in the 60 years since this play was first written and performed. Dutchman is strictly for adults and contains frank language, sexual content, racial slurs, curses and verbal abuse as well as some violence, though every moment absolutely serves to move the plot forward. Mature audiences who appreciate thoughtful, provocative theater and can handle purposeful discomfort should make a point to see this drama. There’s raw beauty, poetic lyricism and visceral truths in Baraka’s artfully crafted and convincingly performed play that will likely linger in your mind for days. n

ST. PATRICK’S DAY TOUR 2024

DROPKICK MURPHYS PLUS PENNYWISE

AND THE SCRATCH

MON, FEB 26

THREE DOG NIGHT PLUS CHRIS TRAPPER

FRI, MAR 1

EXCISION PLUS ATLIENS, RAY VOLPE, ZAYZ, DRINKURWATER

tue, MAR 12

TOWER OF POWER thu, MAR 14 *TWO NIGHTS*

ONE NIGHT OF QUEEN PERFORMED BY GARY MULLIN & THE WORKS

SAT, MAR 16 sun, mar 17

THE PRICE IS RIGHT LIVE! WED, MAR 20

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OUT EVERY NIGHT

E

ach week, we bring you our picks for the best concerts of the next seven days. To submit your show for consideration, visit https://bit.ly/3bgnwXZ. All events are subject to change, so check with the venue before you head out. Happy showgoing!

KOO KOO: 1 p.m., $22-$50. Off Broadway, 3509 Lemp Ave., St. Louis, 314-498-6989. R&B SUPER JAM: 7 p.m., $62-$202. Chaifetz Arena, 1 S. Compton Ave., St. Louis, 314-977-5000. TIM SCHALL: 6 p.m., $15. Blue Strawberry Showroom & Lounge, 364 N Boyle Ave, St. Louis, 314-256-1745.

[CRITIC’S PICK]

MONDAY 19 COLT BALL: 2 p.m., free. Broadway Oyster Bar, 736 S. Broadway, St. Louis, 314-621-8811. NATCHEZ WHISTLE: 8 p.m., free. 1860 Saloon, Game Room & Hardshell Cafe, 1860 S. Ninth St., St. Louis, 314-231-1860. SOULARD BLUES BAND: 9 p.m., $8. Broadway Oyster Bar, 736 S. Broadway, St. Louis, 314-621-8811.

THURSDAY 15 ANTHONY NUNZIATA: 7:30 p.m., $20. Blue Strawberry Showroom & Lounge, 364 N Boyle Ave, St. Louis, 314-256-1745. THE BUTTERY BISCUIT BAND: 9 p.m., $9. Broadway Oyster Bar, 736 S. Broadway, St. Louis, 314-621-8811. DAVE HOLLISTER: 9 p.m., $52-$65. City Winery St. Louis, 3730 Foundry Way, Suite 158, St. Louis, 314-678-5060. EMILY WALLACE: 4:30 p.m., free. Broadway Oyster Bar, 736 S. Broadway, St. Louis, 314-621-8811. HAILEY WHITTERS: 8 p.m., $20. Old Rock House, 1200 S. 7th St., St. Louis, 314-588-0505. MAC SATURN: 7:30 p.m. Red Flag, 3040 Locust Street, St. Louis, 314-289-9050. PARKER MILLSAP: 8 p.m., $22. Off Broadway, 3509 Lemp Ave., St. Louis, 314-498-6989. PAUL BONN AND THE BLUESMEN: 7 p.m., $5. Hammerstone’s, 2028 S. 9th St., St. Louis, 314-773-5565. PAUL NEIHAUS: 3 p.m., $5. Hammerstone’s, 2028 S. 9th St., St. Louis, 314-773-5565. PLAIN WHITE T’S: 8 p.m., $30. Delmar Hall, 6133 Delmar Blvd., St. Louis, 314-726-6161. THE RED CLAY STRAYS: w/ Ben Chapman 8 p.m., $35-$55. The Hawthorn, 2231 Washington Avenue, St. Louis, 314-887-0877. SOUTHPAW: w/ Polterguts, Maladjust 7 p.m., $10. The Sinkhole, 7423 South Broadway, St. Louis, 314-328-2309.

FRIDAY 16 4DEEP: w/ Maxa, Alexia Simone 7 p.m., $15. Central Stage, 3524 Washington Avenue, St. Louis, 314-533-0367. ADAM GAFFNEY: 4 p.m., $5. Hammerstone’s, 2028 S. 9th St., St. Louis, 314-773-5565. BIG GEORGE JR. & THE NGK BAND: 8 p.m., $5. Hammerstone’s, 2028 S. 9th St., St. Louis, 314-773-5565. BOREAL HILLS: w/ Bleach Balta, Prunes 8 p.m., $10. The Sinkhole, 7423 South Broadway, St. Louis, 314-328-2309. CHERRY AND JERRY: 6-8 p.m., Free, 314-621-2337. Alpha Brewing Company, 4310 Fyler Ave., St. Louis. J. HOWELL: 7 p.m., $45-$75. City Winery St. Louis, 3730 Foundry Way, Suite 158, St. Louis, 314-678-5060. JACKSON STOKES ALBUM RELEASE PARTY: 8 p.m., $15. Off Broadway, 3509 Lemp Ave., St. Louis, 314-498-6989. KA BAIRD: w/ Brain Transplant 8 p.m., $10-$20. Schlafly Tap Room, 2100 Locust St., St. Louis, 314-241-2337. KEN HALLER: 7:30 p.m., $20. Blue Strawberry Showroom & Lounge, 364 N Boyle Ave, St. Louis, 314-256-1745. THE MILLENIAL FALCONS: 6 p.m., $6. The Attic Music Bar, 4247 South Kingshighway Blvd., 2nd Floor, St. Louis, 314-376-5313. MY EMO VALENTINE: w/ Finding Emo 8 p.m., $10. The Heavy Anchor, 5226 Gravois Ave., St. Louis, 314-352-5226. PAT AND THE PISSERS: w/ Miracle Whip, Jenerator Jenkins, 86 Red 8 p.m., $10. CBGB, 3163 S. Grand Blvd., St. Louis. SWIFT ME AWAY: 8 p.m., $20-$400. Red Flag, 3040 Locust Street, St. Louis, 314-289-9050. VOODOO PAUL SIMON: 8 p.m., $15-$20. Delmar Hall, 6133 Delmar Blvd., St. Louis, 314-726-6161.

SATURDAY 17 ALL ROOSTERED UP: noon, free. Broadway Oyster

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TUESDAY 20

Band of Horses. | STEVIE & SARAH GEE

Band of Horses 8 p.m. Saturday, February 17. The Factory, 17105 North Outer 40 Road, Chesterfield. 314-423-8500. Since getting its start in the mid-aughts, Band of Horses has worked tirelessly to perfect the heady mix of post-rock sounds and alt-country influences that saw the group move steadily from the ranks of Sub Pop to the major labels while keeping its output vital and refreshing. Credit that to the considerable chops of singer-songwriter Ben Bridwell, who has led the band through many lineup shifts through the years and stands as its only founding member. The band’s latest, 2022’s Things Are Great, sees Bar, 736 S. Broadway, St. Louis, 314-621-8811. BAND OF HORSES: 8 p.m., $39.50-$70.50. The Factory, 17105 N Outer 40 Rd, Chesterfield, 314-423-8500. BETH BOMBARA: 7:30 p.m., $20. City Winery St. Louis, 3730 Foundry Way, Suite 158, St. Louis, 314-678-5060. BEYOND FM SHOWCASE #5: 7:30 p.m., $10. Pop’s Nightclub, 401 Monsanto Ave., East St. Louis, 618-274-6720. BILLY ALLEN + THE POLLIES: 10:30 p.m., $10. Halo Bar, 6161 Delmar Blvd., St. Louis, 314-726-1414. BLUE MOON BLUES BAND W/KENT EHRHARDT: 4 p.m., $5. Hammerstone’s, 2028 S. 9th St., St. Louis, 314-773-5565. THE BLUE SPARKS: 7 p.m., free. Das Bevo Biergarten, 4749 Gravois Ave., St. Louis, 314-224-5521. CERVID DAY: w/ Mobile Alien Research Unit, Glass Mattress, Los Phantasmos 8 p.m., $10. The Sinkhole, 7423 South Broadway, St. Louis, 314328-2309. DYLAN WHEELER: 8 p.m., $20. The Golden Record, 2720 Cherokee Street, St. Louis. HOTEL FICTION: w/ Sean Gerty, The Whips 7 p.m., $12. Central Stage, 3524 Washington Avenue, St. Louis, 314-533-0367. LIBRARY BIRDS: w/ Enemy Airship, Seashine 8 p.m., $12. Off Broadway, 3509 Lemp Ave., St. Louis, 314-498-6989. MICHAEL POLL: 7:30 p.m., $20-$35. The 560 Music Center, 560 Trinity Ave., University City, 314-421-3600.

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Bridwell and Co. taking things back to the band’s roots, with promotional materials dubbing it “a return to their earlier work and the kind of raw ethos that lies at the heart of Band of Horses.” The record is more autobiographical than past efforts, with Bridwell touching on the “nebulous frustrations and quiet indignities” of living and loving in modern times. It’s also a damn fine listen, and St. Louis fans are sure to appreciate the new as much as the old at the Factory this week. The Plug: This tour sees Band of Horses performing both acoustic and electric sets at each stop, meaning fans of electrical currents and those who abhor them will both find plenty to enjoy. Now that’s service. —Daniel Hill MISSISSIPPI CLEAN: 6 p.m., $6. The Attic Music Bar, 4247 South Kingshighway Blvd., 2nd Floor, St. Louis, 314-376-5313. MO EGESTON ALL-STARS FEATURING AHSA-TI NU: 7:30 p.m., $15. Blue Strawberry Showroom & Lounge, 364 N Boyle Ave, St. Louis, 314-256-1745. RA CHILD: w/ J’Demul, Ciej, Zak M 9 p.m., $10. El Lenador, 3124 Cherokee St., St. Louis, 314-771-2222. SEASHINE: w/ Enemy Airship, Library Birds 7 p.m., $12-$15. Off Broadway, 3509 Lemp Ave., St. Louis, 314-498-6989. THE COLD STARES: 8 p.m. Red Flag, 3040 Locust Street, St. Louis, 314-289-9050. UNCLE ALBERT: 8 p.m., $5. Hammerstone’s, 2028 S. 9th St., St. Louis, 314-773-5565.

SUNDAY 18 BROKEN JUKEBOX: 9 p.m., $9. Broadway Oyster Bar, 736 S. Broadway, St. Louis, 314-621-8811. DENISE THIMES: 6 p.m., $30. Blue Strawberry Showroom & Lounge, 364 N Boyle Ave, St. Louis, 314-256-1745. END OF THE LINE: AN ALLMAN BROTHERS TRIBUTE: 7 p.m., $25-$35. City Winery St. Louis, 3730 Foundry Way, Suite 158, St. Louis, 314-678-5060. ERIK BROOKS: 8 p.m., $5. Hammerstone’s, 2028 S. 9th St., St. Louis, 314-773-5565. JIM MANLEY: 11 a.m., free. Evangeline’s, 512 N Euclid Ave, St. Louis, 314-367-3644. JOHN MCVEY BAND: 3 p.m., $5. Hammerstone’s, 2028 S. 9th St., St. Louis, 314-773-5565.

ACOUSTIK ELEMENT: 7 p.m., free. Robust, 227 W. Lockwood Ave., Webster Groves, 314-963-0033. ANDY COCO: 5 p.m., free. Broadway Oyster Bar, 736 S. Broadway, St. Louis, 314-621-8811. CRO-MAGS: w/ SNAFU 8 p.m., $20. Red Flag, 3040 Locust Street, St. Louis, 314-289-9050. ELIZABETH MOEN: 8 p.m., $15. Off Broadway, 3509 Lemp Ave., St. Louis, 314-498-6989. ELLIS PAUL: w/ Pete Muller & the Kindred Souls 7:30 p.m., $25-$35. City Winery St. Louis, 3730 Foundry Way, Suite 158, St. Louis, 314-678-5060. ERIC LYSAGHT: 9 p.m., free. Broadway Oyster Bar, 736 S. Broadway, St. Louis, 314-621-8811. AN EVENING WITH HAKEN: 7:30 p.m., $30-$80. Delmar Hall, 6133 Delmar Blvd., St. Louis, 314-726-6161. HAKEN: 7:30 p.m., $40-$80. Delmar Hall, 6133 Delmar Blvd., St. Louis, 314-726-6161. NAKED MIKE: 7 p.m., $5. Hammerstone’s, 2028 S. 9th St., St. Louis, 314-773-5565.

WEDNESDAY 21 AUSTIN MEADE: 8 p.m., $18. Off Broadway, 3509 Lemp Ave., St. Louis, 314-498-6989. DREW LANCE: 8:30 p.m., $14. Broadway Oyster Bar, 736 S. Broadway, St. Louis, 314-621-8811. JOE PUG: 7:30 p.m., $25. Blue Strawberry Showroom & Lounge, 364 N Boyle Ave, St. Louis, 314-256-1745. MAMMOTH WVH: 7:30 p.m. Red Flag, 3040 Locust Street, St. Louis, 314-289-9050. MARGARET & FRIENDS: 3 p.m., $5. Hammerstone’s, 2028 S. 9th St., St. Louis, 314-773-5565. VOODOO JIMMY BUFFETT BEACH BAND: 8:30 p.m., $14. Broadway Oyster Bar, 736 S. Broadway, St. Louis, 314-621-8811.

UPCOMING AIR SUPPLY: Fri., Feb. 23, 8 p.m., $50-$80. River City Casino & Hotel, 777 River City Casino Blvd., St. Louis, 314-388-7777. BLONDE REDHEAD: Tue., Feb. 27, 8 p.m., $30. Delmar Hall, 6133 Delmar Blvd., St. Louis, 314-726-6161. CELEBRATION DAY SOUNDCHECK PARTY: Thu., Feb. 22, 7 p.m., $10. The Pageant, 6161 Delmar Blvd., St. Louis, 314-726-6161. CELEBRATION DAY - A TRIBUTE TO LED ZEPPELIN NIGHT 1: Fri., Feb. 23, 8 p.m., $25-$40. The Pageant, 6161 Delmar Blvd., St. Louis, 314-726-6161. CELEBRATION DAY - A TRIBUTE TO LED ZEPPELIN NIGHT 2: Sat., Feb. 24, 8 p.m., $25-$40. The Pageant, 6161 Delmar Blvd., St. Louis, 314-726-6161. CONTINUUM VOCAL ENSEMBLE: Sun., Feb. 25, 7 p.m., $35. 21c Museum Hotel St. Louis, 1528 Locust St, St. Louis, 314-940-2333. CRYSTAL LADY BIRTHDAY BASH: Sat., March 2, 8 p.m., $10. Blueberry Hill - The Duck Room, 6504 Delmar Blvd., University City, 314-727-4444. DIESEL ISLAND: Fri., March 1, 7 p.m., free. Das Bevo Biergarten, 4749 Gravois Ave., St. Louis, 314-224-5521. GIMME GIMME DISCO: Sat., March 2, 8:30 p.m., $15. Delmar Hall, 6133 Delmar Blvd., St. Louis, 314-726-6161.


[CRITIC’S PICK]

Cro-Mags. | ALBUM ART

Cro-Mags w/ SNAFU

For more than 30 years, the Cro-Mags have been the reigning kings of New York hardcore, delivering a pummeling mix of loud, fast punk and unbridled aggression that makes a listener want to hold a knife. Responsible for marrying the hardcore punk sound with that of thrash metal in the late ‘80s, the Cro-Mags came out swinging with the 1986 classic Age of Quarrel and have refused to let up since. The band’s sound was a revolution, and its members practiced martial arts and spoke of the impossibility of world peace, driving hardcore music down the dangerous back alleyways of New York City, where the band calls home. It’s no shocker, then, that the Cro-Mags’ history has been one inextricably linked with vio-

lence — approximately zero fans were all that surprised, for example, when a backstage scuffle between members and former members resulted in two stabbings and a broken leg at 2012’s CBGB Festival in New York. That inter-band nastiness is largely a thing of the past these days, as founding member Harley Flanagan (who may have himself been holding a knife during said altercation, but stop snitchin’) and former members John Joseph and Mackie Jayson reached a settlement in 2019 that allowed each side to tour under different variations of the band’s name. This particular show is a Flanagan-led affair, and it’s sure to be a rowdy one. Here’s hoping everyone survives. Situation Normal: Detroit’s SNAFU will open the show, delivering a potent mix of raw punk crossed with thrash and grind influences. It is unlikely that any of its members will stab anybody at this or any other show, but hey, ya never know. —Daniel Hill

GOLDBERRY EP RELEASE: Fri., March 1, 7 p.m., $10. Blueberry Hill - The Duck Room, 6504 Delmar Blvd., University City, 314-727-4444. JESSICA FICHOT QUARTET: Featuring Chloe Feoranzo, Fri., Feb. 23, 8 p.m., $20-$25. The Focal Point, 2720 Sutton Blvd, St. Louis, 314-560-2778. THE JOHNNIE TAYLOR EXPERIENCE: Sat., March 2, 6 p.m., $25-$45. Backstreet Jazz & Blues, 610 Westport Plaza, Maryland Heights, 314-878-5800. KEYSHIA COLE: W/ Trey Songz, Fri., March 1, 8 p.m., $72.50-$132.50. Chaifetz Arena, 1 S. Compton Ave., St. Louis, 314-977-5000. LIFT EVERY VOICE: Fri., Feb. 23, 7:30 p.m., $25$65. Stifel Theatre, 1400 Market St, St. Louis, 314-499-7600. MYRON ELKINS: Sat., Feb. 24, 8 p.m., free. Tin Roof St. Louis, 1000 Clark Ave, St. Louis, 314-240-5400. OCTOBER LONDON: Thu., Feb. 22, 8 p.m., $98.52$157.54. The Hawthorn, 2231 Washington Avenue, St. Louis, 314-887-0877. PETEY: Wed., Feb. 28, 8 p.m., $24. Delmar Hall, 6133 Delmar Blvd., St. Louis, 314-726-6161.

PETTY GRIEVANCES: W/ Hotel Party, DEFCON, Mindclot, Fri., Feb. 23, 7 p.m., $10. The Heavy Anchor, 5226 Gravois Ave., St. Louis, 314-352-5226. RICKY MONTGOMERY: Wed., March 6, 8 p.m., $25. The Pageant, 6161 Delmar Blvd., St. Louis, 314-726-6161. SAMANTHA FISH FT. JESSE DAYTON: Fri., Feb. 23, 8 p.m., $25-$30. Delmar Hall, 6133 Delmar Blvd., St. Louis, 314-726-6161. SHEAFOR AND SIMES: Sun., March 3, 10 a.m., free. Das Bevo Biergarten, 4749 Gravois Ave., St. Louis, 314-224-5521. ST. LOUIS SHOEGAZE SERIES 1: W/ Future/Modern, Seashine, Fri., March 1, 7 p.m., $5. The Wink! Annex, 4209 Virginia, St. Louis, 314-337-1288. ST. LOUIS CIVIC ORCHESTRA: Sat., Feb. 24, 7 p.m., free. Harris-Stowe State University, Henry Givens Administration Building Auditorium, 3026 Laclede Avenue, St. Louis. SUBTRONICS: Thu., Feb. 22, 8 p.m., $39.50-$60. The Factory, 17105 N Outer 40 Rd, Chesterfield, 314-423-8500. n

8 p.m. Tuesday, February 20. Red Flag, 3040 Locust Street. $20. 314-289-9050.

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SAVAGE LOVE Smash Button BY DAN SAVAGE Hey Dan: My heart is breaking and it’s my own fault. I started cheating on my husband of 29 years, casually at first — making out, getting groped, no penetrative sex — and then I met a man and we just clicked. I caught feelings and we started to have an intense, kinky and very sexual and emotional relationship. I love my husband. We are extremely compatible in so many ways, except this one: I am kinky and poly whereas he is vanilla and monogamous. Even though I haven’t disclosed my cheating to him, we have been talking about my desire to be non-monogamous. He knows I’m kinkier than he is, although I can’t disclose how I came to know I need BDSM in my life. I have also discovered that I am bisexual, but not biromantic. Because of this, my husband has moved on monogamy and agreed to be a little monogamish: he consents to me exploring sexual encounters with women, primarily because he guiltily admits that he finds it a non-threatening turn-on since I am not romantically attracted to women. I have presented to my husband that I WANT to be non-monogamous and that I am capable of polyamory. He hasn’t consented. Even though he says he doesn’t want to say no or hold me back from exploring my sexuality, he says if I were to issue an ultimatum, we would get divorced. So, this is basically his ultimatum. Meanwhile, my lover and I have recognized that the struggles in our relationship stem from the fact that I am cheating on my husband. It raises doubts for my lover about whether I am deceiving him, since I am obviously capable of deceit. I hate this. When I ask him what he wants, my lover says he wants me not to hate myself so much. And so, we have decided to “pause” our affair until I can figure out how to get right with my husband and be able to be ethnically non-monogamous. Adding to my heartbreak: I NEED both these relationships. My husband can only flex so far in the kink direction. He cannot be the dominant partner I need. I’ve told him this, more or less. And he takes it as saying that without that he is nothing, which is not true. He is almost everything, but he can’t stand being not “enough.” He is afraid that I will resent him if he doesn’t agree to non-monogamy. Which I don’t. But if we divorce so I can feel fulfilled, that will destroy him. I don’t think he believes I would choose non-monogamy or kink over him. And I really don’t want to leave him or lose my lover. I cannot choose between them. I need them both. My heart is BREAKING. Help. Brokenhearted And Seeking Insightful Counsel

I’m sorry about your heart but I can’t with your problem. The mail this week — the mail for weeks — has been nothing but letters from longmarried straight people thinking about cheating or already cheating or desperately trying to renegotiate monogamous commitments they made decades ago or desperately pretending that’s what they’re doing, e.g., they’re going through the motions of discussing ethical non-monogamy in the hopes of legitimizing the non-ethical non-monogamy they’re already practicing. I don’t mean to come across as unsympathetic, BASIC, but you’ve been smashing your pussy down on the self-destruct button for a while now. You didn’t get the answer you wanted from your husband — permission to fuck other men — and instead of countering his ultimatum (“No fucking around with other men or it’s over”) with an ultimatum of your own (“Permission to fuck around with other men or it’s over”), you went out and started fucking around with other men. You may not have been consciously aware that you were smashing your pussy down on the self-destruct button, but you either knew or should have known you were setting something in motion that would blow up your marriage. This is all going to come out. Your husband is going to find out about your lover, and then you’re going to find out whether your husband’s threat to divorce was serious. Threatening to divorce someone you love is easy, actually divorcing someone you love is hard. And divorce is a long, drawn-out process and your husband will have time to reconsider his decision before it’s final. But only the truth can free you from the miserable corner you’ve painted yourself into. And while it’s going to be unpleasant, telling the truth — the messy, painful truth — is the only way you out. Sometimes married people smash their hands/mouths/ pussies/dicks down on the self-destruct button and wind up destroying their marriages. Sometimes that’s what they want. But sometimes the marriage survives the explosion and something new and beautiful is built on the rubble. Maybe you’ll be one of the lucky ones. But there’s only one way to find out. Alright, I dug through the mail looking for questions that aren’t about cheating or negotiating non-monogamy or embracing polyamory and managed to find a few… Hey Dan: I am invited to a (gay) sex party. When invited for dinner you bring a bottle of wine, but what is the proper etiquette for a sex party? Come showered and douched, I guess. What else? Do I bring something for the host? Newby At Sex Party

You’ve been smashing your pussy down on the self-destruct button for a while now. A host gift is a thoughtful idea, NASP, but slipping your host a little cash — paper towels are way more expensive than they used to be — may be a better idea. “I usually ask for a £5 tip to cover the costs of food, soft drinks, and hard drinks I provide at the parties I run,” says Ali Bushell, author of the Sex Party Handbook. “Even if the host of NASP’s first sex party doesn’t ask for money, being willing to tip the host $10 or so is always appreciated. It’s especially appreciated when the guest acknowledges the time and effort that went into making the event happen and mentions that they’re grateful.” While Bushell makes alcohol available at the parties he hosts at his home in London, not all sex party hosts serve booze. “Bringing alcohol isn’t a terrible idea,” says Bushell, “but NASP needs to bear in mind some people might prefer the party to be dry. So, if he’s thinking of bringing a six pack of beer or bottle of wine to share, best to check with the host about whether that would be welcome.” And big ups to arriving very recently douched and very freshly showered. Also: don’t wear cologne, put your phone away, be polite when you decline to play with someone, be just as polite to someone who declines to play with you, get on PrEP (prevents HIV infection), look into DoxyPEP (offers some protection against other sexually transmitted infections) and maybe consider using condoms (they offer excellent protection against HIV and other STIs). Ali Bushell’s Sex Party Handbook is available on Amazon. When he’s not hosting sex parties, Bushell hosts the The Healers Guild, a podcast for people seeking or offering healing. Hey Dan: I have a lover and we are longdistance. I’d like to spend the limited time we have in person doing physical activities — getting intimate — but he takes a long time to warm up and needs to spend a lot of time talking first. If we had all the time in the world, that wouldn’t be a problem, but we usually only see each other on business trips that take us to each other’s cities. Can we cut to the chase without shortchanging his need to reconnect emotionally first? Down To Business

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You can’t. Hey Dan: I’m a 28-year-old woman in Australia. I am talking to a very hot dominant man in his 40s that I met on Reddit who’s in my area. He gives me extremely explicit tasks that he wants photos of constantly including writing his initials on me each day. I have verified his ID — I know his real name and he is who he says he is — but other than the fact that he’s married and very private about his life, I don’t know much about him. I’m enjoying having a regular (constant!) D/s dynamic in my life, but I’m worried these photos would ruin me if they got out. But I’m enjoying our online play so much I’ve stopped talking to people on dating apps because his play is more fun for me. It’s hard to find hot kinky people that are normal/hot IRL in my area. Advice please? Personal Images Complicate Situation The risk you’re running — losing control of your photos — is not some ancillary risk that you can mitigate or eliminate while still enjoying this connection. Your entire relationship with this man consists of taking the pictures he orders you to and then sending them to him. You want this sexy dominant man to have power over you — you’re turned on by the thought of him having power over you — and these photos are the power he has over you. You aren’t sending these photos to get the sex, PICS, the sending of the photos is the sex. Now, sex is never risk-free — there’s no such things as entirely safe sex — but sane people do what they can to mitigate risks. Gay men take PrEP so they can enjoy PIB without having to worry about the risk of contracting HIV; straight women use birth control so they can enjoy PIV without having to worry about the risk of contracting feti. But the only way to eliminate the risk here is for you to stop sending these photos — to abstain from sending more photos — but that also eliminates everything that’s pleasurable about this connection. That said, PICS, the fact that know this man’s name — and that you know he’s married — does provide you with some protection. If this man were to post your photos online because you wanted to end the relationship, you have legal recourse — revenge porn is a crime in Australia — and so the risks here are shared and that will hopefully motivate him to keep your photos on a secure and un-hackable server and not to do anything stupid or vindictive when you move on to a hot Dom you can see IRL. Got problems? Everyone does! Send your question to mailbox@savage.love! Podcasts, columns and more at Savage.Love

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