Showcase 1

SHOWCASE

CONTENTS INSPIRATION.

When introduced with this brief we were presented with 6 chosen garments. The brief required us to choose one of these garments to expand on and create an illustrative, promotional concept targeted at a specified audience. When first introduced to the garments it was garment 4 and 6 which stood out to me. To begin my initial research I decided to create a visual mindmap based around these distinct garments to distinguish which of these garments best suited me and thus the one which I would pursue within the development of my concept.

Garment 4, the feather black skirt, when initially shown the garment instantly i felt a strong connection to the 1920s period fashion; Art Deco interior; Burlesque connections such the Dolly sisters and Moulin Rouge; Great Gatsby’s Daisy Buchanan. Although I did find there were essence of a more conformist, grandiose facade around the skirt perhaps due to the use of bird feathers in many glamourised public events - Jean Smalls Met Gala look 2019.

Garment 6, the panelled gilet, initial thoughts ran to menswear and the brand Moncler; Moncler’s appearance in Milan’s Fashion week 2018 and their collab with Rick Owens. The puffer panelled look to the garment similarly led me to other brands such as Nike, Adidas, North Face, Armani and Canada Goose. These brands when related to an audience I would distinctly imagine young Gen Z/Millenial men with a large ego, reckless manner and rough exterior - ‘chav’. Chav culture in Britain has been adopted in society since the early 2000s, inspired by 90s sportswear and anti -authoritarian culture.

Out of the two garments I explored, Garment 6 would be the one I found to be more relevant to a specified audience and the garment which I found to have the most personal relations to, with myself growing up since the term ‘chav’ was initially adopted I have a better understanding of how this term has developed in society. Thus the direction of this brief will begin with me delving into the history, aesthetic and the subculture initially adopted. As well as how chav culture has evolved particularly in recent years and the influence it has had on street fashion as well as the political and social stigma around the derogatory term.

This research will help within my development of designing a promotional artefact based on the evolution of the ‘chav’ and how and why the aesthetic they have adopted has become an outstanding fashion artefact.

INVESTIGATION

‘CHAV’.

The term ‘chav’ was first introduced into slang in the early twentieth century, originating from the Romany word ‘chavi’(BBC, 2011). The term has since fallen victim to numerous critics in British society, routinely demonised within media, TV and internet sites such as ‘chavscum’(Tyler, 2006).

Political damage from societies upper and middle-class looking down on working-class society has similarly led to being refereed to as the ‘feral underclass’ by right-wing commentator Simon Heffer (Hanley, 2011).

Whilst analysing deeper into the term I depicted sections of text from the book Moral Panics in the Contemporary World which comments on how chav culture has been perceived in British society. The first text summarises the specific characteristics and style which would categorise an individual into being a typical ‘chav’ - ‘young, white, British working class’ in ‘tracksuits’. The second text comments on the origin of the term whilst the third text is valuable in suggesting how and why chav culture has claimed a persona of arrogant and self-obsessed young men. Due to the designer clothes they would wear, in an attempt to show off their wealth and status within society.

These sections of text are a valuable insight into my discovery of how chav culture is perceived in Britain. I will use this research as a starting point into investigating what my target audience and message for my concept will be.

MARTIN PARR

Martin Parr’s photography project ‘The Last Resort’, was interesting to me when researching for an artist which romanticised British 1980s summer time in working-class Britain. The project’s primary subject was based on the seaside resort of New Brighton, situated in Merseyside, a resort where many working-class Brits would retreat for their summer holidays (Public Delivery, 2021).

Parr is a documentary photographer who focuses his attention on the social classes of Britain that result in many satirical, anthropological and intimate responses in his work (Tate). The beauty of this project i found to be how Parr captured the slowly decaying seaside resort in a light which many working-class Brits at the time saw to be a wellearned treat. The controversial pictures show the reality and chaos of working-class Britain and the series was criticised for exploiting the working classes(Unit 31, 2016).

Fig 2

MARTIN PARR RESPONSES

Inspired by Parr’s work I attempted to shoot my own responses in the same style of his work.

List of ideas for my shoot

-smoking indoors

-smoking on ashtray inside messy boys bedroom -performing a drug deal -holes in socks -hands in trousers/ legs apart -hoods up -walking pitbull -sitting/leaning against car/brickwall

BURBERRY CASE

When researching brands which became an artefact in chav culture Burberry was a prominent suggestion.

International luxury fashion house, Burberry, is a British founded brand which has successfully retained their traditional values whilst still using innovative ways to remold itself into a covetable luxury brand that competes in a worldwide market (O’Neil, n/a). Their distinctive check was inspired by Scottish tartan design of a beige base and black, white and red stripes an iconic fashion artefact since the brands establishment in 1856 (Silvano, M.D.C.L.F., 2020).

With reference to Thorstein Velbens Trickle down theory (Veblen, T. and Mills, C.W., 2017), the cycle of the social elite adopting new styles through conspicuous consumption to preserve their position in society and thus causing a constant ongoing circuit in driving innovation in fashion - the iconic check was originally a symbol of status. Primarily Worn by the British upper class Burberry was perceived as classy and opulent(Silvano, M.D.C.L.F., 2020). However the brand took a significant hit to their social status when the check was adopted by the working class through football hooligan and chav culture having a catastrophic effect on their image. Due to the violent and conflicting nature of the subcultures and Burberrys association to this led to an increased negative stigma around the check and even resulted in the brands banishment from many bars and nightclubs of the time.

Although the brand saw a revenue increase from £427.8m in 2000/01 to £675.8m in 2003/04 caused

by the increased consumption from hooligan and chav culture (Campaign, 2004). Burberry quickly became a national tabloid joke - the iconic photo of Daneilla Westbrook, an ex-cocaine addict, with her baby dressed head to toe in the nova check was plastered over papers (Bothwell, 2005). Similarly the Satire Welsh rap band Goldie Lookin’ Chain flaunted a Vauxhall Cavalier with a distinctive Burberry check paint job - the ‘Chavalier’ (Bothwell, 2005).

Burberry’s attempt to claw back credibility began with removal of the peaked check cap, often worn by hooligans and chavs, from their range along with appointing Christopher Bailey as creative director in 2001. Bailey’s first executive decision was to ditch the signature check print, associated with the chav aesthetic, and promote new faces for his recent campaign; Eddie Redmayne, Naomi Cambell and Cara Delevigne, individuals of whom all representative of a posh and refined English background (Caruso, 2018).

However traditional to Chav culture the counterfeit market was a key inventory in their society. Due to the Brands worldwide fame counterfeit garments of this check could be easily copied and began to rise in production. It was not long before many in the lower income subcultures in urban Britain began to rep the check, real or fake (Silvano, M.D.C.L.F., 2020). Causing what could be seen as Irreversible damage.

The research I have found to be valuable in exploring how a once high-end luxury brand image can be altered purely due to the consumer audience.

I hereby submit this report as accurate to the best of my knowledge.

Signed:

FAKE.

As discussed previously, the counterfeit market is a huge factor in chav couture. When researching for my project I have decided to expand on how counterfeit production has evolved in recent years and how I could link this into my work.

A fake garment is an artefact which aims to directly copy an authentic product already circulating the fashion market, in the hopes of duping the consumer. Thus why garments often are replications of high end luxury products which can retail for around £500+ (THRIFTED, 2019). The replication of these garments cause significant damage as luxury brands helplessly watch the mass market adorn themselves with cheap knock-offs (Campaign, 2004).

Burberry and Stone island have one instantly recognisable feature; beige nova check; compass badge situated on the left arm. Producers of fake garments go to extreme lengths to dupe the iconography of the product to the legitimate product as possible - making it nearly identical to the untrained eye, heightening the brands vulnerability to the counterfeit market (THRIFTED, 2019). Consequently the success of the counterfeit market led to becoming a 1.2 trillion dollar industry (THRIFTED, 2019).

BOOTLEG.

On the other side of the counterfeit market there is a new emerging market less abhorred than the typical ‘fake’ garment and in recent years has become increasingly embraced by the industry and subsequently being capitalised on (Something Curated, 2020).

Bootleg fashion, although has similar attributes to those of fake fashion, bootleg has no intention of replicating and marketing itself as the real thing. Instead the focus is purely on creatively appropriating the brand, mimicking the original to a unique and creative standard (THRIFTED, 2019).

The growth of bootleg fashion in recent years is apparent particularly for young creatives. For example creative Toby Leigh, uses his photography skills to capture counterfeit Burberry products from over the last decade. Leigh’s book ‘Berberry’ includes 100 images of bootleg beauties from his personal project - including wheelchairs, shopping trolleys and even birthday cakes repping the beige tartan (Oppeheim, 2015)

Similarly from Feb-May 2020, Fashion Space Gallery based at London College of Fashion presents an exhibition ‘The Real Thing’, exploring how bootleg culture has evolved to become a political tool for designers to express their creative energies in fashion (Something Curated, 2020).

When exploring how bootleg fashion has been used to promote certain political views I found designers such as Sports Banger, who rose to fame through his unique take on the NHS logo against the original design of the Nike swoosh (THRIFTED, 2019). The piece has a distinctive appeal to UK audiences, originally launched in 2015 to support the junior doctor strikes the T-shirt has recently been relaunched in appreciation for the work of the NHS during the coronavirus pandemic, leading to surge in fundraising through art and fashion (ELEPHANT, 2020). Georgian bootleg designer Demna Gvasalia had a similar approach with creating a Corbyn/Nike swoosh t-shirt during the UKs 2016 general election, the tee urged in popularity in Bristol’s street wear scene particularly among young Labour voters (Webber, 2018).

SURVEY CONDUCTED -RESULTS

The results conducted through a short survey between peers ranging between 19-22. The results prove that there is some knowledge of bootleg fashion and a 50/50 acceptance to purchase a bootleg garment. Furthermore the survey gives an inside opinion on Burberry currently still being perceived as a ‘chavy’ brand by consumers.

CHAV CULTURE AND RELATIONSHIP WITH POLICE.

Influenced by chav culture’s relationship with police authority and the youthful political direction of bootleg fashion, I wanted to research the relationships between young British culture and the police, along with the platforms of which this negative stereotype has been indoctrinated by and the overall influence it has had on young Brits.

Grime music along with rap has been associated within chav culture since the early 00s. A prime example of Grime having a political influence is Plan B’s single ‘ill Manors’. The song is centred around solid liberal-left views towards the government’s poor running of the 2012 Olympic campaign. The Olympics being located in the city’s poorest boroughs, brought a new beacon of hope to urban London with the promise of new jobs opportunities and facilities (Kapoor, 2013) - these promises were not delivered and continued cuts of social benefits and wages led to the response of the 2012 riots (Kapoor, 2013).

The music video, the work of Top Boy director Yann Demange (Lynskey, 2020), shows a series of primary clips from the riots showing young working class men looting, smashing cars, graffiting police vans etc. alongside secondary sources of Plan B in an undisclosed council estate surrounded by young men in classic chav attire of whom all appear to come from a similar social background (planbuk, 2012).

Ill manors highlights the concerns of how society has stereotyped the working class as socially worthless, with most members of the working class being closed under the dismissive umbrella term of ‘chav’. Left-wing author Owen Jones of ‘Chavs: The Demonization of the Working Class’ states how he believes the term chav is used as a ‘caricature for working class Britain’ (Foyles, 2016). Ultimately arguing this term has resulted in a lose-lose scenario within working class society. “They riot: they’re trapped. They don’t riot: they’re trapped. At least one way they get to feel for a moment the illusion of empowerment” (Lynskey, 2020).

In March 2021, riots broke out within youth culture in Bristol against the proposed Police, Crime, Sentencing and Courts Bill - Kill the Bill. The bill would give police and the Home Secretary increased powers to stop protests (Grimshaw, 2021). The events were plastered over student social platforms including Manchester’s Student Group, the targeted audience for these riots were clear to be of a younger generation(). In a rebellious nature, similar to those of chav culture, the posts showed clips from the riots. One video showed swarms of youths blasting DNB through speakers whilst another clip showed a young man skateboarding whilst a nearby police van was graffitied and set on fire (Sky news, 2021). Protestors were described as ‘a mob of animals’ by police spokesman (Grimshaw, 2021).

“We’ve had it with you politicians, you bloody rich kids never listen. There’s no such thing as broken Britain we’re just bloody broke in Britain. What needs fixing is the system, not shop windows down in Brixton.” -PLAN B ILL MANORS LYRICS

‘CARICATURES’ for working-class Britain.’

Inspired by Owen Jones statement of the working class being described as ‘caricatures for working class Britain’ (Foyles, 2016). I wanted to research into why and how this stereotype has been demonised in British culture.

Mockumentaries are comedic staged documentaries that are used to analyse or comment on current events and issues. Mockumentaries often feature the average working class ‘chav’ as an easy go-to subject for public humiliation. Vicky Pollard, Kerry Mucklowe along with McDevvo are prime examples of early 2000 caricatures. Mc Devvo’s character, created by animator David Firth, is a stereotypical chav who enjoys drinking excessively in public areas, relies on jobseekers allowance and harasses innocent members of the public in an attempt to appear ‘cool’. (THEKLA, 2015) This televisual vilifying of chav culture has pervaded the subconscious of everyday social perceptions.

Although in recent years mockumentaries have had some positive impact on chav culture, People Just Do Nothing is a short series that in recent years has grown in popularity, particularly amongst young adults and caused a resurgence in chav couture (OUTSONS). The sitcom features a group of young men who run West London pirate radio station - Kurupt FM. Located in a council estate situated in the London suburb of Brentford. The chav esque group pride themselves in dressing head-to-toe in tracksuits and sportswear,

founder MC Grindah stating “we’re fashion icons mate, look at us”(OUTSONS). The group’s fashion is based on the typical chav attire worn in the early 2000s - Nike, Adidas, Ellesse, Stone Island.

Kurupt FM’s rise in popularity led to the crossing from mockumentary to real life fame headlining at popular festivals and raves Bestival, Boomtown and Glastonbury, performing to swarms of young influential adults (BBC, 2020). The rise of their status in youth culture has had a proven influence on today’s current streetwear trends with many attempting to impersonate their idols.

When interviewed by Mixmag member Decoy commented on how Kurupt FM’s early 00s garments have influenced current vintage streetwear trends: ‘they ‘re like ‘Yeah yeah, what are they wearing? That looks sick. I might get some of that’.”(Case, 2017).

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‘CHAV’ influence on Streetwear vii.

COLLAB

Researching for a brand collaboration which would suit the chav couture of the early 00s as well as appeal to the newly emerging vintage streetwear market in youth culture highlighted from my previous research into Kurupt FM’s influence on fashion trends. I decided to investigate both collaborations with brands Burberry and Wavey Garms.

WAVEY GARMS

OPTION 1BURBERRY

When initially researching into brands behind chav culture ‘Burberry’ was prominent particularly due to rise in fame from the Burberry Case. Collaboration with Burberry could ignite the early chav culture of peaked caps and monogram checked garments. However my research has also proven that most of chavs’ ‘burberry’ garments were either counterfeit or bootleg and caused the luxury brand huge reputational damage within the mass markets and almost lost them the title of ‘luxury’(Campaign, 2004). Thus it could be seen as immoral or controversial to celebrate chav culture within the luxury market.

Wavey Garms is an online outlet trading in vintage designer labels and streetwear inspired by its initial Facebook group launched in 2013 (HIGHSNOBIETY, 2016). The marketplace pride themselves on reselling vintage designer labels such as Stone Island, Burberry, Versace and Moschino - brands which all make up a major part of casuals and chav culture (HIGHSNOBIETY, 2016). The brand also delves into bootleg fashion and supports young creatives proven through the online fashion blog as well as shop options being presented on their opening landing page (RB, 2019). The target audience for the site is aimed at young chic, fashion-forward individuals with an appreciation for original and vintage designer fashion.

Currently on the Wavey Garms landing page there is a short film produced by Wavey Garms x Ruby&Boya ‘WAVEYLAND’ which featured a young man time travelling back to working class 1997 London (RB, 2019). The short film had a similar style to their

previous collaboration with filmmaker Glenn Kitson (VICE, 2017). The fashion film which was centred around gangs and crime showcases the current garms Wavey Garms had to offer along with an insight into life on the streets of working class Britain. Glenn cast Sephton Henry, a former gang member, and Sean Brookes, a well respected graffiti writer to give an accurate and relatable response.

Through the research conducted I believe Wavey Garms has a stronger connection to chav culture than Burberry due to the resurgence of bootleg fashion along with some of their fashion films being centred around the understanding and acknowledgement of chav couture.

INTERPRETATION

INTERPRETATION.

From the research I have conducted, my concept proposal will be to create a short flick lookbook showcasing a series of photographs I have styled and choreographed myself in a style inspired by Martin Parr. The styling of the shoots will be sure to include brands such as Burberry, Stone Island and Nike; brands which through my research have strong connections to chav culture. The styling of my shoots will also feature fake and bootleg garments. The purpose of the zine will be to celebrate and promote the rise of chav fashion in society and how this once demonised society can now bring a new trendy and cool look to streetwear.

Through my research I have also decided the brand best suited to collaborate my plan proposal with would be the brand Wavey Garms. The brand attracts a large audience of young creatives who are all avid buyers of vintage designer sportswear and also pride themselves on being fashion-forward focused in comparison to other current subcultures in youth which are stronger supporters of fashion brands such as PLT, Shein etc.

Further development on my plan I also aim to create a collectable exclusive series of artwork for the brand inspired from my research into chav cultures association with ‘caricatures’. Playing heavily on the term caricatures and how usually this term is referred to an art form, often portraits, made by exaggerating behaviour, personality and physical appearance to create a humorous and grotesque effect (Douglas, 2020).

I aim to take a fun spin on today’s social opinion on the ‘chav’ and claim this as their own, similar to Kurupt FM’s series ‘People Just Do Nothing’ and the proven resurgence into chav fashion in streetwear.

These digitally designed prints will be created using Adobe Illustrator and will be available to purchase digitally or on large scale posters as a collectable artwork piece which young trendy adults can stick onto their uni hall walls. The caricatures will be styled in a chav/streetwear style appealing to the brands specified target audience of whom as well as being supporters of fashion also many have a strong admiration for artwork particularly upcoming independent artists and designers.

CUSTOMER PROFILE.

Location: Bristol

Gender: Male Age: 21

Occupation: part-time work at Schuh alongside studies (20hr pw)

Education: Currently studying Graphic Design at UWE

Income: Disposable (no dependence)

Life Cycle Stage: young, independent, Social Class: MC

Consumer attitude: Fashion forward, creative, sustainable

Consumer shops at: Depop, Ebay, Wavey Garms

FB page

Fashion Muses: Gully guy Leo, Fin Mathews, MC

Grindah

Habits: Social butterfly, avid shopper, attend organised local dj events

Seth is an avid buyer of high-end vintage clothing which has been upcycled and resold on sustainable shopping agents; Depop and Ebay. Stone Island and Burberry being his go-to brands.

Since moving out of his home town and family house Seth has reinvented his image including style and persoanlity. He now enjoys socialising and using the skills he learnt alongside his course to create digital posters as PR for local DJ events.

INSTIGATION

ILLUSTRATION 1&2

CARICATURES DEVELOPMENT

Outfits

Styles

Style 1 I created to be a similar approach to the bratz y2k aestethic currently rising in popularity among young women.

Style 2 is more similar to a graffiti, humorous style of caricature I think is more accurate in representing a chav esque caricature. The style is also more unique and thus is why i will develop my illustrations in this style due to Wavey Garms being a brand heavily inspired by independent Graffiti artists.

I chose to develop my illustrations in outfits ‘Female 2’ and ‘Male 2’ as I showed peers my outfit choices and these came out as the top 2 favourites.

BACKGROUND

I experimented with different background colours on the development of my final outcomes. I chose the lime green background in comparison to the pink backgrounds as well as lime green currently being an ontrend colour, it is also considered gender neutral and allows the illustration to be accessible to a wider audience, both male and female (The Fashion Folk, 2021).

ILLUSTRATION 3

ILLUSTRATION 4

Art piece inspired by the recent events in Bristol’s Kill the Bill Act, photo referencing from a picture captured during the current riots involving a young man skateboarding in front of a burning police car. I will use the iconic nature of this image to inspire an illustration which will perfectly represent the political views of our target audience in a creative format.

Illustration inspired by my research into bootleg fashion, merging Iconic brand Burberry with sportwear brand Nike. Also re-phrasing Nike’s slogan similar to the style of Sports Bangers NHS tee.

EXAMPLES

JUST DID INIT.

JUST DOOB INIT.

JUST DOOB IT.

JUST SMOKE IT.

JUST VIBE INIT.

I chose ‘JUST DOOB IT’ slight twist on the original ‘JUST DO IT’ without coming across cringey yet has links to chav culture of drugs and violence.

Series of looks which celebrate chav culture whilst still incorporating this into a trendy streetwear style which can be adopted to the target audience and consumers of Wavey Garms.

PHOTO POSITIONING

Locations I chose for my shoot were places which looked derelict and uncared for, much to resemble how working class Britain is portrayed in society. I also made changes to some of my locations to make them more appropriate for my shoot, I added cig butts, empty cups and vodka bottles to compliment the chav ‘reckless’ aesthetic they have adopted.

I also aimed to shoot on a rainy, miserable day to add to the moody tone I wanted these pictures to resemble but when I began to shoot the weather turned to sunshine. To solve this issue I edited the pictures to decrease the exposure and vibrance of the images.

FINAL OUTCOMES

CRITICAL REFLECTIVE SUMMARY

From the research conducted my initial investigation delved into chav culture and the dynamics of how working class society is perceived in Britain. Focusing around the history and emergence of the slang word ‘chav’ and how society has subconsciously attached these negative stereotypes towards this specific social class. Inspired by Martin Parr’s project, ‘last resort’, I conducted a few trial shoots in a similar style to try and reincorporate the style and beauty of his work alongside common denominators we subconsciously attach to chav cultureBurberry, Stone Island and reckless manors.

Research into a revival of chav couture in streetwear promoted by popular current platform such as style icons Kurupt FM led to my initial concept idea of creating a short lookbook featuring a series of stylised looks which compliment streetwear alongside chav couture.

What I enjoyed most about the development of my lookbook is the style of how my shoot results came out. I purposely did not plan or ask my models to pose in any particular way so that the end results came out as naturally flowing as those of which Parr’s work did.

Similarly the collaboration I chose to do with chosen vintage designer brand Wavey Garms was successful in promoting my showcase to my specified target audience due to the rising popularity of this brand among young creatives.

Initially when developing my lookbook I was keen to incorporate caricatures inspired by my research from Owen Jones. But once I created these caricatures on Adobe Illustrator

I decided the style clashed with the aesthetic of the lookbook. In response to this I decided on a side concept to the collaboration involving exclusive collectible artworks consumers of the brand can purchase digitally or in a poster/wall art format.

Overall I believe my concept was successful in bringing together chav culture alongside the upcoming resurgence of vintage streetwear amongst many Gen Zs.

VII.

BIBLIOGRAPHY

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BOOKS

1. Jones, O., 2020. Chavs: The demonization of the working class. Verso.

2. Silvano, M.D.C.L.F., 2020. Playing against the rules: how a digital strategy can enhance a luxury business: the case of Burberry (Doctoral dissertation).

3. Veblen, T. and Mills, C.W., 2017. The theory of the leisure class. Routledge.

YOUTUBE

1. Owen Jones: Chavs | British politics and the working class five years later. (2016). YouTube Video, added by Foyles [online]. Available at: Owen Jones: Chavs | British politics and the working class five years later - YouTube [Accessed 10 Apr 21].

2. Plan b - ill Manors [OFFICIAL VIDEO]. (2012). YouTube Video, added by planbuk [online]. Available at: Plan B - ill Manors [OFFICIAL VIDEO] - YouTube [Accessed 26 Apr 21].

3. Wavey Garms - “WAVEYLAND”. (2019). YouTube Video, added by RB [online]. Available at: Wavey Garms“WAVEYLAND” - YouTube [Accessed 27 Apr 21].

IMAGES

Fig 1 - Moral Panics in the Contemporary World. [book].

Fig 2- Google Images (2020). [online].

Fig 3- Google Images (2020). [online].