Best of Central Vermont - Fall 2017

Central Vermont best of

FALL 2017 VOLUME 5, NO.4

COMMUNITIES AND LIFESTYLE IN THE HEART OF THE GREEN MOUNTAINS

PUMPKIN PATCHES

FARMERS ADD MAGIC TO THE SEASON

ART AT THE KENT

TRANSPORTING VISITORS THROUGH TIME

KISMET AND BEAU REDEFINING DINING IN MONTPELIER

Contents FEATURES

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FOOD IN ITS FINEST FORM AT KISMET AND BEAU REDEFINING DINING IN VERMONT’S CAPITAL CITY

BY SARAH TUFF DUNN

46

ART AT THE KENT

54

THE SEARCH FOR A SINCERE PUMPKIN PATCH

TIMELESSNESS – AND A SENSE OF THE IMMEDIACY OF TIME

BY MARY GOW

DEDICATED PUMPKIN FARMERS ADD MAGIC TO THE SEASON

BY PHYL NEWBECK

COVER PHOTO BY HEIDI CROSSMAN

Contents D E PA R T M E N T S

13 PUBLISHERS’ NOTE 14 ONLINE HUB 16 CONTRIBUTORS 18 OCCASIONS OUT & ABOUT 20

BY CASSIE HORNER

26 68

LOCAL TREAT

26 DELICATE DECADENCE

BY MICHELLE FISCHER

OUTDOORS

40 CHIPPING AWAY AT THE APPALACHIAN TRAIL

BY SUSAN SHEA

COMMUNITY SPOTLIGHT

62 CENTRAL VERMONT HABITAT FOR HUMANITY

BY COREY BURDICK

RAISE YOUR GLASS

68 STOWE CIDER CELEBRATES

FOUR YEARS OF SIPPIN’ SUCCESS

BY KELSEY WEIDMANN

73 DINING & ENTERTAINMENT GUIDE

CALENDAR 75 ARTS AND ENTERTAINMENT 79 AD INDEX 80 LAST GLANCE

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BEST OF

Central Vermont FALL 2017 | VOLUME 5 NO.4

COFFEE TABLE PUBLISHING 32 Hermit Thrush Lane South Burlington, VT 05403 PUBLISHERS

Robin Gales John Gales Bob Frisch CONTRIBUTING EDITOR

Sarah Tuff Dunn ASSISTANT EDITOR

Elaine Ambrose ART DIRECTOR

Robbie Alterio ADVERTISING DESIGN

Hutchens Media, LLC WEB DESIGN

Locable ADVERTISING

Robin Gales (802) 299-9086 John Gales (802) 558-2719 coffeetablepublishing@comcast.net Keep us posted. Best of Central Vermont wants to hear from our readers. Correspondence may be addressed to letters to the editor, Best of Central Vermont, 32 Hermit Thrush Lane, South Burlington, VT 05403. Advertising inquiries may be made by emailing ctpublishing@comcast.net or coffeetablepublishing@comcast. net. Best of Central Vermont is published quarterly by Coffee Table Publishing, LLC, ©2017. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part is strictly prohibited. Best of Central Vermont accepts no responsibility for unsolicited manuscripts, artwork, or photographs.

12 BEST OF CENTRAL VERMONT | FALL 2017

PUBLISHERS’ NOTE

FALL INTO THE WONDERS OF VERMONT

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here are those who will tell you that in Central Vermont there is no better time of year than fall. We must admit it would be hard to argue otherwise.

Sure, there’s the celebrated and breathtaking beauty of the mountains flaunting their foliage, but there’s so much more to the season. You’ll see what we mean in this issue.

We visit several of our area’s pumpkin farms; some offer apples and mums as well.

But this time of year, it’s the great orange gourds that have locals and visitors alike beating a path to fields and farm stands. Fall means cider too, and we’ve discovered Stowe Cider—deliciously filling a niche!

As the temperature drops, we move indoors for a look at the Kent Museum. You’ll find yourself wondering why you never knew it was right here in Central Vermont, how you could have missed it, and making plans to visit first chance you get. In Barre, we drop in on Delicate Decadence, appropriately named, with cases filled with scrumptious treats, fresh-baked breads to go with a hearty fall soup or stew, and even take-home meals on Wednesdays that will give you another reason to cheer for hump day!

We also shine a spotlight on fall hikes, Topnotch Resort’s equestrian center and trail rides, and Kismet and Beau, two eateries that are redefining good eating. And we bring you another example of the good people of Central Vermont doing good things—Habitat for Humanity’s work in the area.

Happy fall everyone. We encourage you and your family to enjoy not only the foliage but everything else fall in Central Vermont offers as well!

Publishers www.facebook.com/ BestOfCentralVermont

Follow us on Instagram @bestofcentralvermontmag www.bestofcentralvt.com 13

VISIT US ONLINE

| W W W. B E S TO F C E N T R A LV T.CO M

nt o m r e V l a Centr 7 VO LUM FAL L 201

best of

BIKES AND BREWS AROUND STOWE

CO M M

What’s better than a morning of mountain biking in and around Mount Mansfield’s valley? How about a brewery tour in the afternoon! You can visit five of the country’s most famous spots for suds. Rick Sokoloff of touring company 4 Points VT shares the scoop.

UN IT IE

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PATCHSEAES E SON PUMPADKDIN MAGIC TO TH FARMERS KENROTUGH TIME E ART ATTINGTH VISITORS TH TRANSPOR

ND BEAU KISFINMINGETDINAING IN MONTPELIER REDE

LOCAL DAY HIKES FOR FALL From stretches of the famed Appalachian Trail to lesser-known scrambles up to awe-inspiring summits, Vermont offers a season’s worth of hikes filled with autumnal splendor. Find yourself inspired to lace up the boots, fill the Nalgene bottles, and pack a few PB&Js with tips on some of the Green Mountain State’s most terrific fall trails.

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eNEWSLETTER

CREATIVE PUMPKIN CARVING After a day at a local pumpkin patch, it’s time to take out the tools for turning those gourds into ghouls, goblins, or gorgeous works of art. Discover the best ways to frighten witches and scratch creative itches with this primer on pumpkin artistry.

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• A summary of our most popular articles and comments from our readers • Local event listings from our calendar • Special offers from Best of Central Vermont and local businesses • Exclusive insights into upcoming features and articles, and much more . . .

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Feel free to drop us a line at ryan@bestof centralvt.com, or share your comments on our site or on social media. You might even see your name in our next issue.

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OCTO

CLICK ON our online calendar to see local events happening in our community, and you can add your own event free!

CO N T R I B U TO R S

COREY BURDICK has spent the past 12 years pursuing her passion for all things food and wine. She is a graduate of Mount Holyoke College and has received her WSET Level 2 certification from the Vermont Wine School. When she isn’t writing or cooking up something delicious with locally sourced foods, you can find her running, vintage treasure hunting, roller-skating, or puddle jumping.

MARY GOW is a journalist, freelance writer and an arts correspondent for the Times Argus, a contributor to numerous regional magazines, and the author of history of science books for middle school students.

Mary lives in Warren and can be reached at mgow@gmavt.net.

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BEST OF CENTRAL VERMONT | FALL 2017

ROGER CROWLEY is a freelance Vermont photographer from East Montpelier specializing in event, sport, and portrait photography. Roger’s photography career began in the 1970s serving local newspapers and teaching darkroom film techniques. A list of his published works includes Sports Illustrated, Runner’s World, Golf Week, and many others.

SARAH TUFF DUNN writes on health, fitness, travel, and more for a variety of regional and national publications. She lives with her husband and their two young children in Shelburne, Vermont.

MICHELLE FISCHER lives in Hinesburg with her husband and two dogs. She enjoys skiing in the winter, as well as mountain biking and hiking in the summer. She enjoys recreation, the outdoors, and all Vermont has to offer.

Michelle is also an avid cook and Master Gardener.

KELSEY WEIDMANN is a New Jersey native who considers Vermont her second home, as she has been skiing at Mad River Glen since she was a toddler. When she isn’t writing or blogging, the Rutgers graduate is experimenting in the kitchen or snuggled up with a mystery novel and can be reached at keweidmann@gmail.com.

OCCASIONS

Gobble Wobble Turkey Trot BARRE’S FUN RUN BURNS CALORIES AND RAISES FUNDS

Thanksgiving Day brings hundreds of runners and walkers to the back roads of Barre as they tackle the Gobble Wobble Turkey Trot to benefit the Barre Congregational Church.

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n November 23rd, Thanksgiving Day, more than 200 runners will take a break from toiling over candied yams and pecan pies in their kitchens to take to the roads and bike paths of Barre. This year 18 BEST OF CENTRAL VERMONT | FALL 2017

marks the 15th Annual Gobble Wobble Turkey Trot, an event staged by the Barre Congregational Church.

“It began as a fun run to raise money for the Youth Group mission trips,” says Pastor David

Vanderlinde-Abernathy. “About five years ago, we changed the course, did more advertising, and partnered with the town of Barre. The race now draws over 200 runners.”

In good weather conditions, the race begins on Bolster Road next to Barre’s Municipal Office Building; after about 100 yards, racers head out on Websterville Road before arriving at the Rock of Ages Visitor Center and taking a left on the town of Barre’s bike path. Finally, the course spills out onto the Barre Town Elementary and Middle School parking lot where racers celebrate the finish.

Should inclement weather be the case, the race will be an out-and-back event on Websterville, Graniteville, and Pitman Roads, ending near the Municipal Office Building.

Preregistration is $30 and includes a T-shirt; same day registration, with no T-shirt, is $35. The race begins at 9:30am.

For more information and to register, visit www.barrecongregational.org.

O U T A N D A B O U T | BY C A S S I E H O R N E R

Topnotch Resort

Equestrian Center The natural world at Topnotch Resort in Stowe is the perfect place to explore on horseback. The stables are home to 10 horses ready to take riders through the woods and a covered bridge and across a stream. Rides are by appointment and leave at 11am, 1pm, and 3pm with experienced guides.

“The horses are older and calmer,” says Mike Martel, who has been running the stables for 37 years. “We try to make it as safe as possible. Certain horses are better with kids, and some are fine with anyone. Children six and up can ride even if they have never done it before. This is more of a scenic walk. We try a trot or two on each ride.” The limit is six to seven riders with one guide for a personalized experience. Rides last about one hour. Reservations are appreciated. The cost is $50 per person; cash and checks only are accepted.

Another equestrian option is with the Gentle Giants. Carriage and sleigh rides are available, weather permitting, with the big workhorses—three Percherons and two Belgians—owned by Rochelle Clark. “Rides are available from 11am to 3pm, weather permitting,” Mike says. “These are 30-minute rides that go through 20

BEST OF CENTRAL VERMONT | FALL 2017

Left: Eldorado and Eclipse take a break from touring at Topnotch while Tonto dips his head in a stream for a drink. Rides traverse through some of Vermont’s most scenic corners. Photos by Grace Rosalie Farrar/Golden Hoof Photography.

the covered bridge, the woods, a pasture, and a stream, and sometimes the Topnotch field where there are views of Mount Mansfield.�

Reservations are preferred. The cost is $40 per adult, $20 per child, and free for children under four. For more information, call (802) 253-6497. www.bestofcentralvt.com 21

OUT AND ABOUT

PREMIER EXHIBIT

Multi Media

Mania

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BEST OF CENTRAL VERMONT | FALL 2017

American Flatbread’s Big Red Barn is the venue for Multi Media Mania, which features stained glass artists along with many other creative artisans in a monthlong show organized by Valley Arts.

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he newly restored Big Red Barn at Lareau Farm, home of American Flatbread on Route 100 in Waitsfield, Vermont, is the exciting venue for a series of exhibitions. The third show of the season is the premier Multi Media Mania organized by Valley Arts. It runs from the opening reception on September 10 from 5 to 9pm through October 14.

There will be a wide variety of artisans from furniture makers and stained glass artists to photographers, painters, and rug hookers. Each artist can display up to three pieces. The show will be set up based on how different things look together to give people an idea of how the items might look in their own homes.

“Multi Media Mania was inspired by the fact that a lot of crafters have complained that all of the exhibitions focus on painting and photography with nothing for crafters,” says Gary Eckhart, owner of Moosewalk Studios and president of Valley Arts. “We decided to combine fine crafts and fine arts in one show.

George Schenk of the Big Red Barn and American Flatbread Company was looking for an event, so we decided to do it there.”

This partnership takes advantage of the beautiful space in the historic Big Red Barn, parts of which date back to 1794. Last winter it was totally renovated with new lighting and floors, thanks to the combined efforts of the American Flatbread Company, the Vermont Department of Historic Preservation, and many volunteers. Multi Media Mania is the third show in the restored barn, and the hope is that it will become an annual event. The American Flatbread Company is located about 25 feet from the barn.

The nonprofit Valley Arts is dedicated to supporting all the arts in the Mad River Valley.

“Valley Arts generates shows, offers winter workshops, and is the parent organization of the annual Vermont Festival of the Arts,” Gary Eckhart says.

Multi Media Mania is open Thursday and Friday from 4 to 9pm and Saturday and Sunday from noon to 9pm. www.bestofcentralvt.com 23

OUT AND ABOUT

Kayaking Adventures

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wonderful way to learn about the Vermont landscape is from a kayak gliding along a river. Clearwater Sports in Waitsfield offers guided trips on the Mad River or Winooski River. The day-long excursions go from about 10:30am to 2:30pm and include a stop for a picnic lunch and maybe a swim.

The trips are suitable for beginner kayakers, families, couples, and kids. Everything is included: the boat, life jacket, and paddle. The minimum number of people is four.

“The guide gives you basic kayak instructions,” says Craig Richardson of Clearwater Sports. “We take you down the river and show you interesting spots. Generally, people see wildlife, especially on the Winooski where there are many birds including bald eagles.” The guides have plenty of experience and training. “Our trips are easy to moderate, family-friendly float trips,” he explains. “The ratings are Class 1, moving flat water, and Class 2, moving flat with easy rapids. We check water levels everyday so we know the conditions.”

The choice of river depends on water levels. The Mad River has no dams controlling 24

BEST OF CENTRAL VERMONT | FALL 2017

water flow, so it is dependent on rainfall to reach kayak-friendly levels. The Winooski, on the other hand, is a dam-controlled river, so levels remain consistent for boating. For more information, call (802) 496-2708.

Fall is a fine time to explore the Mad River, either in a kayak or on a stand-up paddleboard. Clearwater Sports can arrange trips for all abilities and ages.

Stowe, Vermont

Discover, Dine, Stay & Shop

Green Envy Boutique

Commodities Natural Market

Trapp Family Lodge

1800 Mountain Road Stowe, VT

512 Mountain Road Stowe, VT

700 Trapp Hill Road Stowe, VT

(802) 253-2661 www.vermontenvy.com Instagram - @greenenvyvt

(802) 253-4464 www.commoditiesnaturalmarket.com Open 7 Days

(802) 253-8511 info@trappfamily.com www.trappfamily.com

The Bench

Ferro Estate & Custom Jewelers

von Trapp Brewery & Bierhall

492 Mountain Road Stowe VT

91 Main Street Stowe, VT

(802) 253-5100 www.benchvt.com www.facebook.com/benchvt/

(802) 253-3033 stowe@ferrojewelers.com www.ferrojewelers.com/stowe

The Country Store on Main 109 Main Street Stowe, Vermont (802) 253-7653 cmink@countrystorevt.com www.countrystorevt.com

4 Points Brewery Tours

1333 Luce Hill Road Stowe, VT (802) 253-5750 info@trappfamily.com www.trappfamily.com

The Body Lounge

128 Deer Hill Lane Stowe, VT

1799 Mountain Road Red Barn Shops Stowe, VT

(802) 793-9246 www.4pointsvt.com

(802) 253-7333 www.bodyloungevt.com

HOT SPOT | BY MICHELLE FISCHER

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PHOTOS BY ROGER CROWLEY

BEST OF CENTRAL VERMONT | FALL 2017

a Local Treat

Delicate

Decadence

BARRE’S HOMETOWN BAKERY

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deep-dish spinach, leek, and cheddar quiche (available whole or by the slice); a savory breakfast pastry; and several varieties of the morning’s small-batch bagels greet patrons at Delicate Decadence, a hometown bakery in downtown Barre. Custom-brewed java made with locally roasted Vermont Artisan Coffee also entices, as does as a selection of teas that includes jasmine and chai.

A pastry display case brims with all varieties of confections, from traditional favorites like chocolate chip cookies to the trendy (the salted caramel bar) and everything in between (cannolis, millionaire bars, macaroons). Special offerings might include seasonal favorites such as cider donuts in the fall, key lime bars in the summer, or sticky buns for leisurely Saturdays.

A LOCAL FOCUS Delicate Decadence is located just off the Barre-Montpelier Road, next to Lenny’s Shoe & Apparel. It’s an easy stop for morning commuters in search of quality coffee and breakfast on the go or for something to round out the family dinner on the return trip home. Several chairs and tables are available for those who wish to linger. www.bestofcentralvt.com 27

Previous spread: Semolina sourdough is one of several breads Delicate Decadence makes daily; chocolate cupcakes are also a favorite. Below: Theron shapes a batch of artisan bagels. Right: Cailey preps a layer cake for the filling as lemon cupcakes and baguettes are ready to enjoy.

Bakery owner Tim Boltin and his wife Stacie arrived in Vermont about 12 years ago from South Carolina. He is NECI-trained and spent time in restaurants at Sugarbush and with the Abbey Group, eventually deciding to move from highproduction environments. He purchased Delicate Decadence from Michelle Lunde, who founded the bakery and operated it for nearly a decade.

Chef Tim has owned the bakery for three years now, and it has evolved to reflect his strengths: community focus, local commitment, and approachability. Two daughters in middle school, Sophia and Julia, enjoy helping at the counter, and their classmates welcome the occasional bakery treat that accompanies the girls to school. “But it’s not totally a family affair,” Tim notes, as his wife enjoys her career in nursing.

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A local focus has provided many opportunities to cater to the community’s desires. One popular item is their homemade hand-decorated cakes. Around 20 cakes are displayed and available for immediate purchase, from playful to elegant, straightforward vanilla to chocolate fudge with Oreo buttercream frosting.

SIGNATURE ITEMS FROM A SKILLED STAFF When a special event such as a retirement, birthday, or bridal shower prompts a celebration, a Delicate Decadence cake truly expresses affection for the recipient. Wedding cakes are popular as well, and the bakery usually prepares one each week. Tim explains, “The future bride and groom often arrive with a Pinterest board of cakes.”

He helps them determine the cake that best meets their vision, but the flavor selection is exclusively in their hands. Fortunately, nearly every available flavor is represented in the delectable cupcake display and can be sampled.

Locals also embrace the Wednesday night dinner entrée offered by advance sign up.

Around 50 people each week recognize the extraordinary value of a $7-per-person meal, delivered free within Barre or picked up if preferred. A recent dinner selection was LemonHerbed Chicken with rice and a vegetable. www.bestofcentralvt.com 29

The café is a top spot to relax with a selection from the bakery case. Right: The café crew of Cailey Magnan, Wendy Adams, Theron Wells-Wright, Tim Boltin, and Sam Barr.

Delicate Decadence products are also available at other locations, such as the Vermont Tax Department cafeteria. Hunger Mountain Co-op stocks the pies—apple, mixed berry, and a custard-like vegan pie containing tofu.

Everything is made in small batches, the better to control flavor, consistency, and freshness.

Chef Tim is knowledgeable about current food trends, which is reflected in the bakery’s offerings as well. He confidently lists the glutenfree options, adds a touch of whole-wheat flour to the chocolate chip cookies, and knows the calorie count of the pecan bar. For customers hooked on coffee creations, he relates, “We can duplicate any flavored-coffee scenario” offered at Dunkin’ Donuts.

A local focus is also expressed in his commit-

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ment to the bakery staff. He knows that one’s personal life can sometimes complicate one’s professional life, yet each week, the five fulltime staff members plus a bread baker crank out signature items such as the small-batch bagels. He credits a loyal, skilled staff as integral to the bakery’s success.

There is also a cooperative arrangement where students from the career center at Spaulding High School are paid to work and benefit by acquiring hands-on knowledge that prepares them for a career and employment. Other business proprietors might envy the quality of his staff, which enables Chef Tim and his family to take vacation time, although “there are always some bumps in the road,” he laughs.

There remains only one item he prepares— the lemon bars. The seemingly simple bar is anything but; its perfect pastry crust and seductively silky lemon filling can elude many cooks.

Prebake crust to a specific temperature, top with an exactly proportioned amount of filling at precisely the right temperature, then return to the oven just long enough for the filling to barely set and the layers to meld together. His mouthwateringly perfect lemon bar is indeed an example of delicate decadence.

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DELICATE DECADENCE 15 Cottage Street Barre, VT (802) 479-7948 www.delicate-decadence.com Mon, Tue, Thu 8am–4:30pm Wed & Fri 8am–5:30pm Sat 8am–2pm

www.bestofcentralvt.com 31

BY SARAH TUFF DUNN PHOTOS BY ROGER CROWLEY

Beau Kismet

Trivia buffs around the country may know that Montpelier is the only US capital without a McDonald’s, but they might not know about the fine fare replacing that fast food. Take Kismet and Beau, for example, two finalists for this year’s Seven Daysies awards and both redefining what it means to dine. The former is a farm to table restaurant founded by Crystal Madeira in 2006, the latter a butchery and bar that Crystal debuted last December with coowner Jules Guillemette.

FOOD IN ITS FINEST FORM

D

uring a recent Sunday brunch at Kismet, “California Dreamin’” by the Mamas & the Papas is playing as chef and owner Crystal scurries between the hostess stand and recently emptied tables, aiming to accommodate a line of diners forming on the sidewalk across from the courthouse.

Says one woman to her male companion, “Oh my gosh, I love this place!”

CREATIONS FROM A CULINARY CHEMIST What’s not to love? A plate of huevos rancheros mixes up the traditional Mexican dish with roasted root vegetables beneath delicately prepared eggs; a 32

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side of crispy polenta sops up the black beans and house-made hot sauce. Servers emerge on the front patio with Portuguese fish cakes, maple breves, and wok-seared “scrambles.” It’s hard to part with the menu because each choice beckons— Benedicts, biscuits, bloody Marys. Every item seems to have been concocted by a culinary chemist.

Indeed, Crystal has the eye of a lab specialist. “If you had asked me when I was 10 what I wanted to be when I grow up, I would have said scientist,” she says, “because I was really, truly mesmerized by the science of food—everything from watching a seedling grow to making sourdough bread to tempering chocolate.”

www.bestofcentralvt.com 33

Both Beau and Kismet offer comfortable ambience and outdoor seating for enjoying locally sourced food and handcrafted cocktails.

Crystal cooked her first entire meal at age eight—beef Wellington—using only the woodstove in the family’s farmhouse. “The puff pastry, the pâté, everything!” she recalls.

“Food has always been a part of my life, and I wasn’t aware that my childhood was different.”

She went to high school in Mississippi; pursued environmental studies, psychology, and guidance counseling in college; did a brief stint with Greenpeace; and traveled around the world earning income from food-related jobs before moving to the Green Mountain State in 2005 and opening Kismet soon after.

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THE KARMA OF COOKING AND EATING The restaurant reflects Crystal’s strong moral compass when it comes to growing food and preparing, serving, and enjoying a meal. She started Kismet, which means fate or good karma, as a single mom of two (then ages 2 and 7) and says she took the job very seriously, aiming to avoid the debt that can come from such endeavors while educating the community about the good karma of cooking.

“I want to influence the way people are eating,” she says. “I believe in the holistic approach of supporting our local farmers, who are really the true stewards of the land, and also providing our children with the highest quality food, nutritionally, for a positive impact.”

Because Crystal is “a big vegetable lover,” the Kismet farm to table menu centers on locally grown produce enhanced with humanely raised meats. “At any given point, half the dining room is eating steaks or pork chops and the other half beautiful vegetable preparations,” she says of Kismet, whose signature dish is the brunch bread pudding made with whole-grain sourdough bread, bone broth, caramelized onions, and cheeses and baked like a gratin. “It’s like French onion soup, but better, way better,” says Crystal. “It reminds me most of my childhood.”

To create a clean and orderly kitchen during the brunch shift (typically the messiest and most chaotic because of the options), Crystal skips fried eggs, omelets, waffles, and pancakes. “Instead, poaching eggs is a very pleasant thing to do,” she says. “Kneading bread, making butter from scratch, working www.bestofcentralvt.com 35

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The Alchemist supports the greater Vermont community in many ways beyond providing good cheer. Beer aficionados now travel to Vermont in hunt of Heady Topper, and John and Jen Kimmich are committed to giving back to the Green Mountain State. Photos courtesy of the Alchemist.

Local meats from an array of diversified farms fill the case at Beau and are on the menu at Kismet.

with fresh organic vegetables also make the day enjoyable. It’s important that this food is made with love, and that the people working here enjoy cooking this food.”

BEAU, WITH A BAR Then there’s Beau, which Crystal cofounded with trained butcher and chef Jules Guillemette.

An old-fashioned butchery with a Prohibitionera bar, Beau sells raw cuts of meat and charcuterie and cocktails such as the Boulevardier, made with rye, Campari, and vermouth.

But Beau also offers “a heavy dose of instruction,” says Crystal. “Someone might have had a dish at Kismet that they want to make at home, or I can help them plan for a dinner party or cook for their family on a budget.

We’re providing our community not just with ingredients but also advice.”

At any given time, food professionals, authors, farmers, chefs, and foragers might be found at Beau, talking food politics and flavors.

For customers who might be intimidated by how to use a butcher shop or by the price tags on, say, Wagyu beef, Crystal and Jules train their staff to break down barriers, invite people into a different space, and offer them a range of products that can be affordable.

When she goes out to dine, meanwhile, Crystal keeps the good karma of Kismet. “I go with an open mind to be nourished—not entertained, not even impressed, just nourished in some way or other, and I encourage others www.bestofcentralvt.com 37

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BEST OF CENTRAL VERMONT | FALL 2017

to do the same.”

Typically, she is up until midnight shuttling from Kismet to Beau to school activities, gardens, and the computer to keep it all going.

It’s a flexible, mindful approach to celebrating good health while meeting needs and wants.

Crystal reveals the “special sauce” thinking that contributes to Kismet and Beau knocking out fast food chains in the capital city. “We offer foods that we are excited to source and to cook, and we make menus that highlight what is seasonal and at its peak. We want our guests to be comfortable and to enjoy themselves. So that means if somebody wants to go off-menu and order a burger, we keep ground beef on hand so we can make it. If somebody orders a burger, we’ll make it.”

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KISMET 52 State Street Montpelier, VT (802) 223-8646 www.kismet.com

BEAU 207 Barre Street Montpelier, VT (802) 225-6447 www.beau.com www.bestofcentralvt.com 39

OUTDOORS | BY SUSAN SHEA

SUGGESTED DAY HIKES South Pomfret Road north to Dupuis Hill and return — 2.6 miles Two great vistas from open hilltops, Old King’s Highway lined with stone walls and cellar holes. The first .7 of a mile is steep.

Route 12 south to Lookout Farm Road — 5.7 miles (Described in article) Leave a second car or bike on Green Gate Road.

Cloudland Road to Route 14 — 7.1 miles (Can be split in half by leaving a car at Joe Ranger Road) Several views from hilltop pastures.

Hikes are described in the Appalachian Trail Guide to New Hampshire–Vermont and accompanying maps, available at the atctrailstore.org and local stores. You’ll also find descriptions in the Long Trail Guide, available at www.greenmountainclub.org.

Use the Vermont Road Atlas to find trailheads. For information on hiking basics, see www.appalachiantrail.org.

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Chipping Away at the

APPALACHIAN TRAIL Hiking small chunks for big rewards

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he Appalachian Trail.

The name conjures images of lean, sweaty hikers carrying heavy packs on a grueling trek—Georgia to Maine, six months, 2,180 miles. But for many of us who lack the fitness, endurance, or time to hike the entire AT, as it is known, this legendary trail can easily be enjoyed as day hikes.

A portion of the AT traverses the Upper Valley after it splits off Vermont’s Long Trail in the town of Killington and heads east toward the White Mountains and its final destination on Maine’s Mount Katahdin, crossing the Connecticut River on the bridge between Norwich and Hanover. (The point where the two trails split is aptly called Maine Junction.)

The AT offers a convenient way to exercise, get close to nature, and experience history. Much of the land the trail crosses in our region was cleared and farmed in the 19th century. Hikers can see evidence of past settlement such as cellar holes, stone chimneys and walls, old roads, and even cemeteries.

In fact, the trail itself is historic. Conceived by forester and planner Benton MacKaye in 1921, it was completed in 1937 and is now part of the National Park System. A corridor surrounding the trail has been pro-

tected by the Park Service through land acquisition and conservation easement.

Over the years, my husband and I have been chipping away at the Appalachian Trail in New England, mostly through day hikes. Last summer, we hiked a section in Pomfret, Vermont, beginning at the small parking area for the AT on Route 12, north of Woodstock. Poems and artwork

by Pomfret School students decorated the wooden signboard at the trailhead, along with the usual trail map and info.

We crossed the new bridge over Gulf Stream, which replaced a bridge washed out by Tropical Storm Irene. The dirt footpath marked with white blazes on trees and posts led through a cow pasture.

Fortunately, there were no cows in sight.

Our dog Cody was with us, and cows do not always like dogs. We climbed over a couple of barbed-wire fences on wooden steps called stiles; Cody went beneath.

After stepping gingerly over a rushing rivulet and through a muddy area on the trail, we entered a newly cut hayfield. A stack of round hay bales wrapped in white plastic looked like giant marshmallows. We turned and followed the trail uphill along the edge of a brushy field sporting clumps of milkweed with fragrant, purple-pink flowers. A pair of gnarled apple trees were silhouetted against the sky. A white farmhouse and red barn were visible below in the Route 12 valley, framed by www.bestofcentralvt.com 41

Opening spread: Looking out on Lakota Lake, and Cody awaits a hike ahead. Above: An old stone chimney. At right: Milkweed along the AT, and a hiker follows the white blazes.

steep, wooded hills. As we approached the tree line, a bearded older man carrying a backpack emerged from the woods. “It’s a warm day,” he greeted us as he passed.

We entered the cool shade of the woods. A deep ravine dropped off to the left of the trail, and white blazes led us past big sugar maples, then through a dark hemlock forest, followed by hardwoods and white pine, where the trail was carpeted with pine needles. Stepping over a stone wall, we soon came to an open hilltop, or “bald,” a remnant of pasture from Vermont’s sheep-farming days. (These balds are now kept open by volunteers from the Green Mountain Club, which maintains the Vermont portion of the AT.) Here, there was a hazy view of Mount Ascutney to the southeast, with its distinctive 42

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fire tower and ski trails. We sat down under a tree on a carpet of moss to eat our lunch. Cody lay in the cool dirt of the trail. I watched an orange skipper feeding on a nearby milkweed flower. Soon it was joined by a tiger swallowtail; I grabbed my camera.

A FINE TIME FOR A WALK IN THE WOODS Resuming our hike, later that afternoon we met a tanned young woman with dark hair and eyes, wearing a tank top. She was hiking the AT in long sections. On this trip, she’d started in Great Barrington, Massachusetts, and was hiking north to Hanover, where she’d fly to Georgia out of Lebanon. She liked our dog, as her dog at home was named Cody too.

We continued to a high point, then descended to a sag and followed a woods road, an unofficial side trail, to the parking area on Green Gate Road where we’d left my husband’s bike. Cody www.bestofcentralvt.com 43

Apple trees and pastures are among the many sights along the Appalachian Trail, which lends itself to short ambles in addition to long expeditions. The Lookout provides a view of the Green Mountains. Photos courtesy of Susan Shea.

and I waited beside a stream while Ted biked down dirt roads to retrieve the car. I plunged my feet into the ice-cold water.

That night, sitting in bed at home writing in my journal, I looked out at the full moon and thought of the woman we had met enjoying the view of the moon from her tent on the Appalachian Trail.

Autumn is an especially nice time to hike the trail. It’s cool, there are fewer biting insects, and the foliage is spectacular. Wear bright colors, as there are several fall hunting seasons.

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earlier. Plan your trip accordingly and bring a headlamp just in case. If you haven’t done much hiking, be aware that trail walking will take much longer than the same mileage on a sidewalk. Happy hiking!

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ONLINE EXTRA FALL DAY HIKES Discover some of Vermont’s dynamic trails for viewing peak foliage. www.bestofcentralvermont.com

art at the

KENT Timelessness – and a sense of the immediacy of time

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BY MARY GOW PHOTOS BY ROGER CROWLEY

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ook out the windows of the Kent Museum, and the bucolic landscape has changed little from the 1830s, when this handsome Georgian-style inn opened in Calais, Vermont, as a stagecoach stop on the Boston to Montreal post road. Inside, its many rooms reveal the structure’s life, history, and completed and suspended restorations. Some walls are stripped bare to the underlying split lath; others still have their horsehair plaster; and others are wallpapered in styles of past eras. In its rare condition, the building transports visitors through time.

For a few fleeting autumn weekends, the Kent serves as a gallery, an extraordinary setting for artwork by Vermont artists. The combination of this handsome and exposed building and compelling contemporary art offers viewers an uncommon experience, bringing together timelessness and a sense of the immediacy of time.

“There’s a quietude that happens here, an otherworldliness that doesn’t happen in many places,” says Nel Emlen, one of the three co-curators who bring Art at the Kent to life almost magically every year.

A REMARKABLE DYNAMIC BETWEEN BUILDING AND ART This autumn, Art at the Kent presents Refuge: Vermont Artists Respond from Friday, September 8 through Sunday, October 8. The show features a soundscape, outdoor installations, and twoand three-dimensional artwork by more than two dozen Vermont artists, all exploring the concept of refuge. The exhibit, which opens and closes with celebrations of music, is accompanied by workshops and the “Words Out Loud” reading series at the Old West Church. Refuge is the tenth Art at the Kent exhibition and is supported by a collaboration of Historic Kents’ Corner, the Vermont State Curator’s office, and the Vermont Division for Historic Preservation.

“People have absolutely loved these shows because of the remarkable dynamic between the building and the art. There’s a lot going on here. It’s not merely a display of art. It is the www.bestofcentralvt.com 47

REFUGE: VERMONT ARTISTS RESPOND The theme of this year’s Art at the Kent is timely and also apt for this historic hotel. “There is always a need for refuge. Art offers refuge. For artists, art making is refuge,” notes Allyson Evans, co-curator of Art at the Kent.

The theme is an especially good fit for the Kent, co-curator Nel Emlen adds, “Historically, the Kent has had a refuge quality. The Kent Tavern, when it was opened, was a refuge for all those travelers going north and south on the coach road from Boston to Montreal.

Here, you could get out of your coach and enjoy refuge from the noise and dust of the bumpy road.”

INMore than two dozen Vermont artists explore refuge with works that evoke home, community, habitat, nature, faith, and sustenance.

September 8–October 8, Fridays– Sundays, 10am–5pm and by appointment. Book signings and author receptions to follow at the Kent Museum.

OPENING CELEBRATION September 9, 3–5 pm

CLOSING CELEBRATION October 8, 3–5 pm

Previous pages: The Kent Museum commands the corner of Kent Hill Road and Old West Church Road in Calais. Blue Boat by Julia Zanes hangs on the Kent’s exposed lath walls. At right: A ceramic vase by Linda Schütz, Tea Party by Donald Saaf, and a soapstone carving by the same artist.

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dialogue between the building and the art. It is also the dialogue between the different works of art by different artists,” says David Schütz, who also co-curates Art at the Kent with Nel and Allyson Evans.

A STORIED PAST When entrepreneur Abdiel Kent built the Kent Hotel with its tavern in 1837, the Kent family was already well established in Calais. With its attached structures, the hotel was a multi-use hub—at times the Kent family home, also providing boarding for workers in Kent businesses including their boot- and shoe-manufacturing firm. The downstairs taproom and upstairs ballroom attest to its bustling past. The Kent General Store, located in the clapboarded wing of the building, was a longtime community fixture, provisioning Calais residents with supplies and comestibles into the 1900s.

After Ira Rich Kent married Boston debutante Louise Andrews in 1912, the couple frequented Kents’ Corner to visit Ira’s mother.

A summer community of Kent friends from Boston and Philadelphia followed. With Louise’s influence, cousin Atwater Kent, a radio magnate, brought the former hotel back into Kent ownership in 1930. Louise, splitting her time between Boston and Kents’ Corner, established her reputation as a writer, penning a Boston newspaper column called Theresa’s Tea Table, children’s books, cooking features for Vermont Life, and her popular Mrs. Appleyard cookbooks. www.bestofcentralvt.com 49

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The Alchemist supports the greater Vermont community in many ways beyond providing good cheer. Beer aficionados now travel to Vermont in hunt of Heady Topper, and John and Jen Kimmich are committed to giving back to the Green Mountain State. Photos courtesy of the Alchemist.

Left: Apple Orchard and Birds by Donald Saaf in last year’s Parables exhibition. Above: An early sculpture

by Saaf.

Americana museums, the Shelburne Museum among them, opened and flourished in the mid 1900s with interest sparked by the country’s nostalgia for its rural past.

Louise recognized the Kent’s rich history and its potential interest to the public. With her involvement, the historic hotel and home passed from the Kents to the Vermont Historical Society. The Kent family donated generously, and Louise, a Vermont Martha Stewart of her time, managed the restoration of the property, bringing her sense of the colonial era to the project. The Kent Museum opened in 1953 and for nearly four decades served as a seasonal history museum.

In the 1990s, the Kent changed hands again, this time from the Vermont Historical Society to the state of Vermont. A community group, Historic Kents’ Corner, was organized to work with the Division of Historic Preservation on the property. Several critical projects were implemented; a new roof was installed, the brick façade repointed, ADA accessibility improved, and badly damaged plaster removed. www.bestofcentralvt.com 51

Above: Elements from the Bluebird Marionette Theater production of The Green Gold Tree, based on Goethe’s Faust. Right: Marionettes from the performance hang in wait in the Kent ballroom. Far right: Sunlight filters through the Kent’s old windows, illuminating the wood floor below one of Julia Zane’s paintings for last year’s Parables exhibition.

The initial vision for the property was its restoration as a 19th century history museum. Along the way, a fresh direction for the building took hold. Its variety of interesting unfurnished rooms and unusual exposed bones create a unique setting beautifully suited for the display of contemporary art.

LETTING THE BUILDING DICTATE In 2008, Allyson Evans, Nel Emlen, and David Schütz, who all live within a stone’s throw of the Kent, conceived the first Art at the Kent exhibition, called Calais Creates. The show tapped into the creativity of the town. It was so well received that 2009 brought a second show, Calais Collects. Since then the exhibitions have been expanded geographically, now involving artists from around the state, and have been extended to include more weekends, five this year. Past shows have included Reflections in 2014, Verve in 2015, and Parables in 2016.

Allyson, Nel, and David conceive and plan the shows and accompanying events and gather the artists. When the artwork arrives, it is turned over to Allyson and Nel. Together, in a busy and muscle-building ten days, they bring the art and building together. “We let the building dictate to us. It tells us what to do. We take a tremendous amount of time and care installing each show,” says Allyson.

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Every year, their decisions and artful placement open thought-provoking, contemplative, and even whimsical relationships between art and building. In one small upstairs room, the walls are completely covered with 19th century reproduction wallpaper samples sent to Louise Andrews Kent. Every year, Nel and Allyson select artwork that fits brilliantly. The exposed lath in several rooms opens many connections. The hands of the workers who placed them 180 years ago and the hands of today’s artists come together.

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THE KENT MUSEUM 7 Old West Church Road Calais, VT www.kentscorner.org

WORDS OUT LOUD READINGS Old West Church Sundays at 3pm Sept 17: Howard Norman, Jane Shore Sept 24: Alison Prine, James Crews Oct 1: Greg Delanty, Madeleine Kunin www.bestofcentralvt.com 53

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BY PHYL NEWBECK PHOTOS COURTESY OF BEN’S PUMPKINS, BURTT’S APPLE ORCHARD & PECK FARM ORCHARD

THE

search for a sincere

Pumpkin Patch

J

Dedicated pumpkin farmers add magic to the season

T

here’s something magical about strolling through a pumpkin patch in search of the perfect orange orb to decorate your home. Little pumpkins can take their places on railings and fences, while larger ones wait on porches and decks to be transformed into jack-o’-lanterns for the big night. Less shapely or marred gourds may be reserved for that ultimate dessert of the autumn season— pumpkin pie. Whatever your preference, we can probably all agree that walking through a field of pumpkins and choosing the perfect one brings out the child in all of us.

PECK FARM ORCHARD Daniel Bair of Peck Farm Orchard apologizes for taking some of the romance out of the pumpkin patch. “Pumpkins are difficult to grow,” he says. “They are susceptible to a lot of pests, and the vines make for difficult walking and can cause skin rashes. The romanticism doesn’t match the reality.”

And while they can handle a touch of frost, Dan says a hard freeze will turn the vines black and slimy. The frost then travels into the stem and can cause the pumpkin to rot. That’s why most PYO pumpkin farmers actually do most of the harvesting, tearing out vines and leaving the pumpkins on the ground for people to browse. “If I could, I’d leave every pumpkin where it is,” Dan says, “but often that isn’t possible.”

This will be the fifth year for Dan’s East Montpelier pumpkin patch, which was added to supplement his apple orchard. Initially, he sold pumpkins from a roadside stand, but when his daughter was old enough to walk, he took her to a dwarf orchard and watched her face light up as she picked apples. He decided to include a pick-your-own component to his pumpkins and added other amenities like weekend hay rides.

Peck Farm Orchard is a diversified operation with maple syrup, timber, and land leased to a dairy farmer, allowing Dan to raise his family on the farm full time. Recently he added a pumpkin trebuchet and a corn maze to the autumn offerings at the farm.

BURTT’S APPLE ORCHARD As the name suggests, Burtt’s Apple Orchard grows more than pumpkins, but that crop has been part of the family operation since they opened in 2009. Greg Burtt leaves his pumpkins on the vine, but that means he sometimes has to shut down his pumpkin patch well before Halloween.

Greg’s operation is a low-key one that’s centered on apple picking.

He has an apple slingshot, cider and cider donuts, and a playground for the kids. But he notes that there are return customers who come solely for his pumpkins. www.bestofcentralvt.com 55

Previous page: Samantha Burtt picks her pumpkins.

Above, below and at right: Peck Family Farm offers fall’s bounty with plenty of fun for all ages. Daniel Bair decided to sell the gourds to supplement his apple orchard and recently added a pumpkin trebuchet and corn maze to Peck Farm Orchard.

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Greg considers his pumpkins a relatively easy crop to grow, although he says cold weather can hinder germination, and an early frost can kill off the harvest if left on the vine.

The biggest pest is the striped cucumber beetle, and although he prefers not to use pesticides or herbicides, he sometimes has to do some targeted spraying for the beetle when the plants are small.

BEN’S PUMPKIN PATCH When Ben Notterman was in kindergarten, his parents, Helm and Nancy, spent some 20 dollars on pumpkins for their Snug Valley Farm decorating. Ben’s dad, Helm, was surprised by the cost and decided that Ben should grow his own. Given the family’s farmland where they raise beef steers and pigs, Ben www.bestofcentralvt.com 57

The Burtt family has been growing pumpkins since 2009, and everyone lends a hand in the work and the play. Apples abound at the orchard, which also has cider donuts, a playground, and more for an enjoyable autumn day.

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decided to plant his own pumpkins when he was in first grade. “I either planted 26 pumpkins or made 26 dollars,” he recalls.

These days, Ben’s Pumpkins in East Hardwick has roughly 3,000 plants that produce between 7,000 and 10,000 pumpkins.

Now a teacher at Green Mountain Technical Career Center, Ben invests a lot of early mornings and late nights in the pumpkin patch, and he’s glad to have summers off to tend to his crop. “Weeds are a constant battle,” he says. “We don’t use herbicide, and we weed by hand, which has been difficult this year since it’s been so wet.

We have farm dogs, and they seem to scare off the woodchucks.”

Because frost comes early to the Northeast Kingdom, the pumpkins have to be preharvested. “Leaves protect them for one or two light frosts,” Ben says, “but then we have to get them out of the field so they don’t decompose.” Ben sees one advantage to this arrangement. “In other places, I’ve seen kids break a pumpkin

off the vine only to find out that it costs more than their parents can spend,” he says. “This way, they know the price in advance.”

A VERMONT TRADITION AND LOYAL FOLLOWERS Clearly, nobody is getting rich off pumpkin patches, but Greg Burtt thoroughly enjoys his. “I love seeing the families and the excitement they get from finding the perfect pumpkin,” he says. “Sometimes they’ll even bring wagonloads back.

Pumpkins are fun to grow, and I can plant half an acre by hand in half an hour.”

Likewise, Peck Farm Orchard isn’t aiming to supply the entire state with pumpkins. “We’re small enough that we’re just trying to serve the local community,” Daniel Bair says. “The overall mission of the orchard and pumpkin patch is a place for families to connect and slow down. You can take your phone out for a picture but then put it away.” Each farm has its loyal

www.bestofcentralvt.com 59

Ben’s Pumpkin Patch in East Hardwick has roughly 3,000 plants that produce between 7,000 and 10,000 pumpkins. They are arranged in long rows by price so that kids and adults alike can easily choose something within the family budget.

customers who have been coming back year after year. “We love those repeat customers,” Daniel says. “It’s a neat community thing.”

After almost three decades, Ben Notterman also enjoys seeing the children who used to come to the farm now bringing their own kids—and in some cases—their grandkids.

Despite the fact that he has other jobs, those customers keep him working the fields. “I can’t stop doing it now,” he says. “There are a lot of return customers, and I feel as though I’d disappoint them if this wasn’t here.”

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BEN’S PUMPKINS

PECK FARM ORCHARD

824 Pumpkin Lane East Hardwick, VT (802) 472-6185 www.benspumpkins.com

750 Sibley Road East Montpelier, VT (802) 249-1223 www.peckfarmorchard.com

BURTT’S APPLE ORCHARD 283 Cabot Plains Road Cabot, VT (802) 917-2614 www.burttsappleorchard.com

ONLINE EXTRA CREATIVE PUMPKIN CARVING Turn your pick of the patch into a priceless work of art. www.bestofcentralvermont.com

www.bestofcentralvt.com 61

COMMUNITY | BY COREY BURDICK

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CENTRAL VERMONT

Habitat for Humanity BUILDING COMMUNITY, ONE HOME AT A TIME

H

abitat for Humanity International has been in existence since 1976 when it was launched by founders Millard and Linda Fuller in Americus, Georgia. The famed nonprofit now works in about 1,400 communities in the United States and 70 countries worldwide. Vermont hosts 12 of those affiliates, and Central Vermont is lucky to be home to one of them.

Since 1989, Central Vermont Habitat for Humanity (CVHFH) has been hard at work garnering volunteer support and local funding to build 20 homes to date (of 115 Habitat homes constructed throughout Vermont). Executive Director Debbie Goodwin, who has led the organization for the past two years, relayed that CVHFH currently holds 17 mortgages for families for whom gaining a traditional home loan would be a challenge. Their work truly exemplifies the vision of HFH: “a world where everyone has a decent place to live.”

This incredible effort would not be possible without the dedication of enthusiastic volunteers. It is the commitment of volunteers that helps to not only build homes but also keep them affordable. CVHFH had more than 200 individuals volunteer for the last build, including a number of employees from local businesses such as VSECU, VT Mutual Insurance Group and National Life Group.

A MEMORABLE BUILD Of the 20 homes that have been built, all are new and two have been renovated for new homeowners, but the most memorable build for Debbie Goodwin was the most recent—an extremely energy-efficient build called a passive house.

Debbie explains, “A passive house has continuous insulation throughout its entire envelope: insulated slab, double walls with dense-pack insulation, and cellulose blown into the walls and attic. The building envelope is extremely airtight due to air-seal taping of walls to prevent infiltration of outside air and loss of conditioned air. High-performance, triple-paned windows and doors are installed. A heat pump and a heatrecovery ventilation system regulate warm and cool air temperatures.

Passive building principles offer the best path to net zero and net positive buildings, especially when solar panels are added to the building. The house is situated to benefit from solar gain in the winter months and shade, by way of awnings or deciduous trees, is incorporated in the summer months,” surefire benefits both to the environment and the homeowners, who save money on utilities.

In addition, “Chris Miksic of Montpelier Construction donated much of his time as supervisor to work with our building chair and site supervi-

www.bestofcentralvt.com 63

Opening spread: Central Vermont Habitat for Humanity completed this East Montpelier passive house in June 2017. Celebrating at the Closing Dedication party were Thomas Weiss, Stephanie Boucher, Nick Dentico, Denny Ingrisano, Chris Miksic, Bruce Landry, Debbie Goodwin, and Lisa Lemieux. Also shown is an interior view of a 1,300-square-foot home. Above: Groundbreaking Day with Stephanie, Amelie, and Nick Partner. At right: Whirpool donated kitchen appliances while Ken Stevens hand built the cabinets. Far right: Chris Miksic and Bruce Landry. Page 65: Nick Dentico works on the attic insulation. Photos courtesy of CVHFH.

sor, Bruce Landry, owner of 5 Star Energy Tech.

They both worked together and with community volunteers to build to passive-house standards, ensuring that the house will be PHIUS certified,” Debbie says. “Chris Miksic and Bruce Landry also collaborated with Tolya Stonorov and Irene Facciolo, professors at Norwich University School of Architecture + Art. Tolya created a design for an affordable passive house, and Irene incorporated the design into her semester class, creating working drawings for the build.”

Like many nonprofits, staying on top of funding sources is vital to the organization’s sustained longevity. Fortunately, VHCB (Vermont Housing and Conservation Board) is a strong supporter, and HFH affiliates can submit a grant application to VHCB for each build, with a typical award amount of $22,500. In addition to this grant, additional fund streams 64

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are always being sought through local banks, businesses, and organizations. For the last build, CVHFH received a sponsorship from Vermont Mutual and was awarded a grant from Peoples United Bank Community Foundation.

THE APPLICATION PROCESS The application procedure is a multistep process.

During the last few builds, 17 applications were initially received, 6 reached the income and credit-check application stage, and 3 families ultimately made it to the final stage, a home visit.

“Selecting and working with the partner families to build a home has been an amazing experience,” Debbie says. “It’s a unique experience for a family; it takes dedication, determination, and patience for the partner family to work on a year-long (or more) project.”

In order to be eligible, a family must be in need of adequate shelter due to overcrowding, unsafe, unaffordable, or an unowned current residence.

They also need to have the ability to repay a 0 percent affordable mortgage, and the total family income must be 30 to 60 percent of the area median income. Another large part of eligibility is www.bestofcentralvt.com 65

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a willingness to be a full partner with CVHFH, which means being timely with all the application paperwork, working 500 hours with HFH on their own home or another (sweat equity), and keeping up with mortgage obligations.

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WHAT THE FUTURE HOLDS CVHFH is always thinking ahead. In the short term, they will be partnering with the Vermont Center for Independent Living (VCIL) to build ramps and accessible bathrooms for eligible families, and the long-term vision involves scoping out potential land opportunities in Montpelier and beginning a build in Randolph. The organization is also working toward future strategic goals that will help increase its capacity to serve the community and bump up the human power of its office—all elements that will lead to enhancing their ability to assist more families throughout the region.

Want to get involved? Regardless of the amount of time you have to commit or your interest level, there is a spot for you on the CVHFH crew. Currently, CVHFH is seeking committee members for fundraising and homeowner selection as well as new board members.

Volunteer site supervisors are needed to oversee the upcoming building process of the prospective Randolph home, and ongoing volunteer opportunities are available by contacting the CVHFH office at (802) 522-8611 or emailing cvhfh.execdir@outlook.com.

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CHEERS | BY KELSEY WEIDMANN PHOTOS COURTESY OF STOWE CIDER

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Raise Your Glass Stowe Cider celebrates four years of sippin’ success

Thirsty for adventure? Reach no farther than a refreshing glass of Stowe Cider. Hop on a “flight” and treat your taste buds to an apple-filled journey. Choose to go back to the early orchards of Vermont with a can of classic semi-dry Tips Up, or embark on an exciting new trip with the seasonal limited-edition blend Berry Merrill, infused with blueberries and Vermont maple syrup.

Whatever your decision, you will join the cider house in their mission to “free the cider” one sip of Vermont apples at a time.

Begin by appreciating that the hard cider you are drinking is free of preservatives and gluten and has escaped over-processing. Then let it set you free to explore Vermont’s famous great outdoors. It is the perfect companion for a kayaking trip or a relaxing afternoon by the lake.

“Get outside and take a cider with you!” Mark Ray, co-owner of Stowe Cider encourages.

With the playful winged-apple logo beckoning from every can, how could you refuse?

www.bestofcentralvt.com 69

FILLING A NICHE When Stowe Cider was founded in August 2013, Mark and co-owner Stefan Windler had a clear mission: fill Vermont’s hard cider niche.

“When we came on the scene, the majority of ciders were very sweet,” Mark recalls.

So the two jumped at the chance to satisfy that missing taste. The cider makers began producing a version that boasted less than one gram of sugar after fermentation, making their sweetest batches about half the sweetness of commercial cider, Mark says.

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Like most culinary endeavors, cider making is an art, as sophisticated as crafting a bottle of wine. And Mark says the flavors are equivalent to the fruity, light, and local aspects that wine lovers seek. “We’re winemakers,” Mark says. “We’re just using apples instead of grapes.”

The process begins by gathering plenty of Vermont apples, all from within 150 miles of the production center. Sweet eating varieties like McIntosh, Gala, Honeycrisp, and Fuji most commonly find themselves in

the cider mill. However, heirloom varieties, when they are available, lend themselves to small-batch ciders.

Even though the cider makers work with a single ingredient, it takes expertise to perfect their product. Throughout the process, they must skillfully adjust the temperature and the fermentation time to yield different flavors from the same fruit. For example, Mark explains, higher temperatures create cider more quickly but lower, slower fermentation periods produce fruitier tastes.

Previous pages: Mount Mansfield serves as the backdrop for frosty cans of Stowe Cider, while the Gang of Thieves performs at the company’s Jam for the Land concert to benefit the Stowe Land Trust. Glasses and hats (page 72) are among the souvenirs that sippers can take home alongside libations. Photos courtesy of Stowe Cider.

To mix things up even more, they may add seasonal fruits like strawberries or collaborate

with other companies to add spirits like tequila.

Their current Gin and Juice creation is just one of those unique combos.

The cider is, of course, delicious alone, but like wine, the experience can be enhanced with the right pairings. Its crisp flavor marries well with cheese and, used for braising, it boosts the flavor of pork, Mark says.

INNOVATING AND PUSHING BOUNDARIES Four years after opening, business is flourishing. Stowe Cider’s tart offerings have become a hit among Vermont cider drinkers and visitors alike, many of them from other parts of New England.

www.bestofcentralvt.com 71

Stowe Cider is available throughout Vermont in large supermarkets as well as small craft-beer shops. And the company is starting to branch out in limited capacities to Massachusetts, Washington, DC, and Maine in order to accommodate fans farther away.

Back at the Stowe home base, it has been a challenge to keep up with the demand. So the

cider house will be moving down the road to the West Branch Gallery. They will leave the art in the space but transform the warehouse into a new production facility that will be able to handle their growing popularity.

Stowe Cider will continue to produce its classic flavors while conjuring up more unexpected options. “We like to keep it fresh and new and are always trying to make it better. We don’t want to be making the same thing all the time,” Mark says.

With big plans ahead, Mark is confident about their cider’s success. For one, he is not worried about a potential rivalry with beer.

“I wouldn’t say we’re competing with beer,” he says, laughing. “Beer and cider work well together.”

In fact, the Safety Meeting blend is dryhopped with Citra and Galaxy hops, so it smells like a beer and drinks like a cider, Mark explains.

In any case, their cider is able to hold its own.

“It’s not a fad,” he says. “It’s here to stay.”

The folks at Stowe Cider may have their eyes on their bright future, but they will never 72

BEST OF CENTRAL VERMONT | FALL 2017

forget their humble Green Mountain roots and their ultimate goal. “We are trying to bring back the lost or forgotten orchards,” Mark says.

“We want to use the apples to bring back the heritage of Vermont.”

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STOWE CIDER 1799 Mountain Road Stowe, Vermont (802) 253-2065 www.stowecider.com Mon 12–6pm; closed Tue & Wed; Thu–Sat 12–6pm; Sun 12–5pm

Looking for Stowe Cider in your travels? Check out one of these specialty shops.

Craft Beer Cellar in Massachusetts, Vermont, and DC. Bier Cellar in Portland, Maine Manchester Wine in Manchester, Connecticut Village Wine & Spirits in Hamilton, New York

SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION

Autumn 2017 CENTRAL VERMONT BEST OF

Dining Guide J. Morgans Steakhouse Serving steaks, seafood, and Sunday brunch since 1994. Our recent renovation opens a new chapter in this award-winning restaurant. Known for exceedingly generous portions, we feature over 20 aged-in-house steaks, daily seafood, designer pasta dishes, and mountainous salads and desserts.

Located on Montpelier’s historic State Street. $$ Vermont’s Cutting Edge Steakhouse 100 State Street, Montpelier, VT (802) 223-5222 www.jmorganssteakhouse.com

KEY TO SYMBOLS $ most entrées under $10 $$ most entrées $10 to $25 $$$ most entrées over $25

ENTERTAINMENT AND DINING GUIDE FOR CENTRAL VERMONT

2 Loco Guys

Fast, Fresh and Friendly.

Eclectic burritos & bowls made to order using only the freshest ingredients at fair and affordable prices. Perfect for a fast casual-dining option. Daily specials and endless possibilities. Don’t miss out on Taco Tuesday. $ 136 N Main Street Barre, VT (802) 622-0469 www.twolocoguys.com

Cornerstone Pub & Kitchen

From Swordfish Tacos & Burgers to Steaks & Fresh Seafood. Tuesday is $5 Burger Night. 28 taps featuring Vermont craft beers from Lawson’s Liquids, Hill Farmstead, Zero Gravity, Lost Nation, Good Measure Brewing Co., and more. $–$$ 47 North Main Street Barre, VT (802) 476-2121 www.cornerstonepk.com

Ladder One Grill

Beyond the Menu

Cornerstone Burger

Owner Valerie White-Beaudet invites you to stop in and enjoy a fabulous meal. Our motto is “Where heroes are made” and we’ve incorporated our menu to honor past and present heroes in firefighting. Enjoy Prime Rib, NY Sirloin Steaks or a BRICK OVEN pizza!

Lunch, Dinner, and Take-out. $–$$

Classic neighborhood pub serving gourmet burgers, signature sandwiches, over a dozen craft beers, classic starters including half-price wing Wednesday, and our fresh, fun, new burger of the week plus live music and the perfect spot to watch the game. $–$$

8 South Main Street Firehouse at Barre Barre, VT 05641 (802) 883-2000 www.ladder1grill.com

21 East St. Northfield, VT (802) 485-4300 www.cornerstoneburger.com

Sarducci’s Restaurant & Bar

Red Hen Bakery and Café

Sarducci’s is a Mediterranean-style Italian restaurant serving central Vermont.

We strive to serve superb food with outstanding service and an informal ambience. We cater to families, special occasions, and travelers alike. Renowned by our community for great food at reasonable prices. $–$$

Famous hearth-baked breads, plus an excellent selection of freshly baked pastries­­—croissants, scones, cookies, maple-glazed sticky buns, and more.

Soups and sandwiches made in house featuring local ingredients. Fine wines, beer, cheese, and specialty grocery items. $–$$

3 Main Street Montpelier, VT (802) 223-0229 www.sarduccis.com

961B US Rt. 2 Middlesex, VT (802) 223-5200 www.redhenbaking.com

FALL 2017 | ARTS & ENTERTAINMENT CALENDAR

SPRUCE PEAK PERFORMING ARTS CENTER Myra Flynn

Acrobats & Warriors of Tianjin, China

SEPTEMBER 23 at 7PM

The Matisse Jazz Project with Christopher Bakriges and Gwen Laster

SEPTEMBER 30 at 8PM Myra Flynn and Band

OCTOBER 1 at 7PM

Manhattan Short Film Festival

OCTOBER 5 at 7PM

Manhattan Short Film Festival

NOVEMBER 18 at 7:30PM

John McEuen & Friends Present Will the Circle Be Unbroken

NOVEMBER 24 at 3PM and 7PM Acrobats & Warriors of Tianjin, China

OCTOBER 7 at 8PM

Dave Keller’s Soul Revue

Vermont Philharmonic

OCTOBER 14 at 8PM

Vermont Philharmonic Opera Gala Concert

OCTOBER 21 at 8PM Joe Davidian Trio

NOVEMBER 11 at 8PM

Miss Vermont Teen USA & Miss Vermont USA 2018 Preliminary Competition

NOVEMBER 12 at 2PM

Miss Vermont Teen USA & Miss Vermont USA 2018 Finals Competition

Spruce Peak Arts Center 122 Hourglass Drive, Stowe (802) 760-4634 www.sprucepeakarts.org www.bestofcentralvt.com 75

FALL 2017 | ARTS & ENTERTAINMENT CALENDAR

BARRE OPERA HOUSE

Roseanne Cash

OCTOBER 1 at 2:30PM

Soovin Kim and Gloria Chien

Pilobolus

OCTOBER 13 at 8PM

An Evening with Sam Bush

OCTOBER 20 at 8PM Pilobolus

NOVEMBER 11 at 7:30PM Roseanne Cash

NOVEMBER 18 at 7:30PM The Sharon Shannon Band

Barre Opera House City Hall 6 North Main Street, Barre (802) 478-8188 www.barreoperahouse.org

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mad marathon

FALL 2017 | ARTS & ENTERTAINMENT CALENDAR North Branch Nature Center

OTHER NOTEWORTHY EVENTS SEPTEMBER 22 AND 29 Fall Migration Bird Walks

North Branch Nature Center, Montpelier www.northbranchnaturecenter.org

SEPTEMBER 15–17 British Invasion

Stowe, www.britishinvasion.com

SEPTEMBER 16

Fall Wild Edible Workshop North Branch Nature Center, Montpelier www.northbranchnaturecenter.org

SEPTEMBER 20

Sodom Pond Run Adamant www.cvrunners.org

SEPTEMBER 29–OCTOBER 2 Oktoberfest

Stowe, www.stoweoktoberfest.com

SEPTEMBER 30 CaterpillarFest!

North Branch Nature Center, Montpelier www.northbranchnaturecenter.org

SEPTEMBER 30 HONK! Fest

Montpelier, www.montpelieralive.com www.bestofcentralvt.com 77

Leaf Peepers Half Marathon

SEPTEMBER 30 AND OCTOBER 1 Green and Gold Weekend Stark Mountain Hill Climb Running Race Allen Clark Memorial Hill Climb Bike Race Mad River Glen www.madriverglen.com

OCTOBER 1

Leaf Peepers Half Marathon or 5K Waterbury www.leafpeepershalfmarathon.org

OCTOBER 6–8

Stowe Foliage Arts Festival Stowe www.craftproducers.com

OCTOBER 8

Montpelier Kids Cup and Fall Festival Montpelier www.montpelieralive.com

OCTOBER 7 AND 8

Community Day and Oktoberfest Sugarbush www.sugarbush.com

OCTOBER 27

Touring Kenya: A Slide Lecture by Annie Tiberio Cameron North Branch Nature Center, Montpelier www.northbranchnaturecenter.org

NOVEMBER 18

The Big Kicker American Flatbread Waitsfield, www.sugarbush.com 78 BEST OF CENTRAL VERMONT | FALL 2017

best of

Central Vermont ADVERTISERS INDEX

For more information about print and online advertising opportunities, contact John or Robin Gales at (802) 558-2719 or email coffeetablepublishing@comcast.net.

4 Points Tours......................................................................................................................................25 alla vita..................................................................................................................................................72 Ann Roche Furniture..........................................................................................................................57 Arbortrek................................................................................................................. Inside Back Cover Artisans’ Gallery..................................................................................................................................61 Artisans Hand.....................................................................................................................................38 Bare Medical Spa and Laser Center.................................................................................................. 1 Bennington Potters North.................................................................................................................51 Body Lounge........................................................................................................................................25 Bouchard Pierce Candelight.............................................................................................................51 Bouchard Pierce Thermador............................................................................................................57 Burlington Country Club...................................................................................................................59 Burlington Furniture............................................................................................................................. 3 Burlington Marble and Granite.........................................................................................................11 CW Print + Design..............................................................................................................................71 Central Vermont Medical Center...................................................................................................65 Church Hill Landscapes....................................................................................................................53 Close to Home...................................................................................................................................... 9 Cody Chevrolet...................................................................................................................................79 Coldwell Banker/Classic Homes....................................................................Outside Back Cover Commodities Natural Market.........................................................................................................25 Cornerstone Restaurants............................................................................................................ 4, 74 Country Store on Main......................................................................................................................25 Culligan Water Technologies...........................................................................................................17 Cushman Design Group...................................................................................................................49 Delicate Decadence...........................................................................................................................23 East Warren Community Market...................................................................................................38 ECCO Clothes........................................................................................................................................ 7 Evergreen Gardens of Vermont......................................................................................................37 Ferro Estate and Custom Jewelers.................................................................................................25 Fresh Tracks Winery......................................................................................................................... 44 Fringe Salon......................................................................................................................................... 44 Green Envy Boutique.........................................................................................................................25 Inside Out Gallery..............................................................................................................................49 J Morgans Steakhouse/Capitol Plaza...........................................................................................73 Ladder One Grill/Moruzzi’s Speakeasy................................................................................. 72, 74 Landshapes..........................................................................................................................................43 Liebling.................................................................................................................................................... 5

Mayo Health Center..........................................................................................................................43 McKernon Group.................................................................................................................................. 2 Mid State Dodge.................................................................................................................................15 Montpelier Orthodontics.................................................................................................................66 Morse Farm..........................................................................................................................................65 Nelson’s Ace Hardware....................................................................................................................78 Noyle Johnson Insurance.................................................................................................................37 Outdoor Gear Exchange...................................................................................................................77 Patterson and Smith Construction.................................................................................................53 Peregrine Design/Build......................................................................................................................13 Petra Cliffs.............................................................................................................................................21 Premium Mortgage............................................................................................................................23 Red Hen Bakery and Café................................................................................................................. 74 Red House Builders............................................................................................................................78 Rodd Roofing.......................................................................................................................................67 Saratoga Olive Oil Company............................................................................................................31 Sarducci’s Restaurant and Bar...................................................................................................19, 74 Shelburne Museum............................................................................................................................77 Stowe Area Realty..............................................................................................................................29 Stowe Association .............................................................................................................................12 Stowe Kitchen and Linens.................................................................................................................21 Stowe Red Barn Realty......................................................................................................................39 Stowe Soaring......................................................................................................................................39 Sundara Day Spa................................................................................................................................35 The Automaster.....................................................................................................Inside Front Cover The Bench Restaurant.......................................................................................................................25 The Carriage Shed..............................................................................................................................29 The Store...............................................................................................................................................12 Trapp Family Lodge............................................................................................................................25 Truex Cullins........................................................................................................................................35 Two Loco Guys....................................................................................................................................74 Vermont Bed Store/Wendell’s Furniture........................................................................................ 6 Von Trapp Brewery & Bierhall.........................................................................................................25 Wagner Hodgson...............................................................................................................................45 Wake Robin..........................................................................................................................................45 Windows and Doors by Brownell....................................................................................................71 Zachary Berger Associates...............................................................................................................31

www.bestofcentralvt.com 79

L AST GL ANCE

Sunsets early on Orange pumpkins in the field Hello autumn days

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BEST OF CENTRAL VERMONT | FALL 2017

COFFEE TABLE PUBLISHING, LLC 32 Hermit Thrush Lane South Burlington, VT 05403