Savouring Estonia. From Fine Dining to Street Food 2022

FROM FINE DINING TO STREET FOOD 2022

savouring estonia

Cover Foto: Lauri Laan 180° by Matthias Diether Staapli 4, Port Noblessner 10415 Tallinn Tue-Sat 18 - 23 +372 661 0180 180degrees.ee

Texts: Heidi Vihma Designer: Aleksander Karu Translator: Juta Ristsoo Photos: Kaupo Kalda (5), visitestonia.com (69,73), privat collectios.

Publisher: Best Guides OÜ www.bestguides.ee Savouring Estonia 2022 II print

Enjoy Savouring Estonia!

Our small country is filled with large flavours, exciting and unique eateries.

Savouring Estonia has selected the best of the best. No matter whether it is a fancy, fine dining restaurant or the vendor of simple street food, they are all places where we eat, where we invite our friends and acquaintances, and that we are always happy to recommend to foreign visitors.

Estonia has always been a border country both geographically and gastronomically. Like other Nordic countries, we prefer pure and fresh flavours.

However, these have been enriched by both our close neighbours the Russians, as well as the Germans, with whom we shared a cultural space for centuries. Yet today, the local flavour palette includes the entire world – we are curious and open to trying new things.

The high quality of our restaurants is proven by that fact that, in 2022, several Estonian restaurants came under scrutiny by the MICHELIN Guide. One MICHELIN Star was awarded to two restaurants, five others received the Bib Gourmand designation. and two were awarded the MICHELIN Green Star.

Wishing you flavour journeys filled with new experiences,

Heidi Vihma Katrin Weiss Restaurant Critic Best Guides OÜ Estonia Estonia

Content

6

180° Experience

44

NOKNOK

8

Fotografiska Restaurant

46

Platz

10

Horisont

48

SALT

12

Härg

50

Tsunft

14

La Bottega

52

Balti Jaama Turg

16

Noa Chef’s Hall

54

Uulits

18

Ocean11

56

Viru Burger

20

Pull

60

Hõlm

22

38 Restoran

62

GMP Pühajärve Restaurant

24

Rudolf

64

GMP Patisserie

26

Smak

66

Joyce

28

Tchaikovsky

70

Mere 38

30

Wicca

74

32

Brasserie11

Alexander Restaurant at Pädaste Manor

34

City Grill House

76

Dirhami Kalakohvik

36

Ristorante Flavore

78

Hapsal Dietrich

38

Jahu Resto

80

Rose

40

Kampai

82

Von Gernet Café-Restaurant

42

Kolu Inn

Fine Dining Fine dining hasn’t meant classical restaurants with white tablecloths for a long time now. Today, fine dining restaurants can be very unique and special. But basic truths never change and they still value the completeness of the experience, and turn their attention to all aspects thereof. These are places where the food and service are first class, and the menu represents the head chef’s unique creations that are born of commitment. In these places the beverage menu is outstanding, the design supports the whole, and attention is paid to the smallest details.

Casual Dining In some cases, the line between fine dining and casual dining may be paper-thin, but usually casual restaurants do not set goals that are comparable to fine dining.

Instead they focus on the atmosphere. The casual style gives chefs the courage to try various flavour combinations and techniques, and provides the guests with a pleasant atmosphere in which to enjoy them. Under the heading of casual dining, we have collected those restaurants and cafés that provide a gastronomical experience, pleasant service and relaxing atmosphere. These are places where you can also stop by for a drink, snack or light meal.

Street Food The fact that street food can also be gourmet food is proven by the best street food vendors around the world. During the last few years, local gourmet street food has also developed in Estonia. Initially indeed based on examples from the rest of the world, since Estonian street food is still developing. A new phenomenon on the Estonian culinary landscape is the chef going and ‘mixing with the people’.

Searching for new challenges, internationally experienced top chefs are establishing street food kiosks, and applying their high culinary experience in a new context and raising street food to a totally new level.

Tallinn – the city of good food During the last ten years, the Tallinn restaurant landscape has undergone exceptional rapid development. Good restaurants of various styles, which value local ingredients, can be found in every neighbourhood. The greatest concentration of restaurants, cafes and bars is in the Old Town, which is on the UNESCO World Heritage List. But when seeking gastronomic adventures, one shouldn’t limit themselves to the main thoroughfares, but also pop into some of the back streets. In the city centre, it’s worth visiting the Rotermann Quarter, where there are many special eateries. Some of the fancier fine dining restaurants are located outside the city centre in Kadriorg, Pirita and elsewhere. The street food is concentrated in trendy Kalamaja, especially around the Baltic Station, and in Pelgulinn.

Tallinn is a food capital that deserves attention.

4

180° Experience

by Matthias Diether 180 Degrees, a fine dining establishment located in historic Port Noblessner, serves a four- and a six-course tasting menu. The flavour experience is completed by the visual enjoyment provided by the sea view and the kitchen in the centre of the dining room, which is open on three sides. The head chef is Matthias Diether, a Michelin-starred chef from Germany, whose ambition is to raise the quality of the local cuisine to a new level. The taste experience providing culinary brilliance is perfected by the relationship between food and drink.

6

Fine Dining

www.180degrees.ee

Tu-Sa 18 - 23, Staapli 4, Port Noblessner, Tallinn, +372 661 0180

Fotografiska Restaurant & Rooftop Garden Sustainable and seasonal Fotografiska gets its inspiration from traditional local production methods and the changing of the seasons on the land, at sea and in the woods. Based on the sustainable thinking of our ancestors, nothing is wasted, the raw ingredients include everything from the blossoms to the roots and from the snouts to the tails.

The principle of sustainable enjoyment is not only adhered to in the kitchen, but recycling is also highly regarded throughout the restaurant. Head chef Peeter Pihel is probably the Estonian food authority who has attracted the most attention, having had a brilliant career at the Alexander restaurant in the Pädaste Manor, as well as at the Fäviken Magasinet in Sweden and Fulgurances in Paris, which are among the best in the world.

8

Fine Dining

www.fotografiska.com

Mon closed, Tue-Sat 12 – 23, Sun 10 – 17, Telliskivi 60a/8, +372 5745 0922

Horisont In the Heavenly Heights In Tallinn’s gastronomic world there are only a few top restaurants that extend beyond the Horisont (horizon). But none of the others can approach this one. Not only because the restaurant is located on the 30th floor of the Swissôtel, but because it’s been one of Estonia’s best restaurants for years. The Horisont’s menu balances classic and contemporary cuisine, while always offering something surprising.

The service, just like the cuisine, is also excellent. And the first-rate sommelier can help you choose a suitable wine from the broad wine selection.

10 Fine Dining

www.horisontrestoran.ee

Tue-Sat 18-22, Tornimäe 3, Tallinn, +372 624 3000

Härg Modern meat restaurant

The founders of the Härg (Ox in English) Restaurant are three Estonian meat specialists and grill masters – Enn Tobreluts, Hanno Kuul and Andres Tuule. The menu favourites include high-quality steaks, slowcooked meat, and grilled dishes. The menu also features lamb, pork and duck dishes, fish, seafood, vegetarian dishes and healthy salads.

The Härg’s modern interior design, which has been deemed worthy of a nomination for the annual prize awarded by the Estonian Association of Interior Architects, makes it special and festive. In the summer the restaurant expands onto the terrace, and the courtyard can accommodate larger groups of guests.

12

Fine Dining

www.resto.harg.ee

Mon–Thu 11 - 23, Fri-Sat 11–24, Maakri 21, Tallinn, +372 5382 5003

La Bottega Trattoria in the Old Town La Bottega has been operating in a historic building in the Tallinn Old Town since 2008.

Nicolo Tanda, who came from Sardinia, created this restaurant with its pleasant atmosphere and authentic Italian food.

Today, his work is being continued by head chef Orm Oja, one of the brightest stars in the Estonian restaurant world. The food and drink, dining atmosphere and friendly service at this classic trattoria replicates authentic Italy in its most traditional form.

All the pastas and sauces are made on site and are based on fresh, high-quality ingredients as is typical of Italian cuisine. La Bottega’s cosy and award-winning interior features a medieval mantle chimney and racks filled with a great selection of wines.

14

Fine Dining

www.labottega.ee

Mon-Thu 12 - 23, Fr-Sat 12 - 24, Sun 13 - 22, Vene 4, Tallinn, +372 5194 8759

NOA Chefs Hall Consistently Among the Best In the year that is opened, the NOA Chef´s Hall was already voted the best restaurant in Estonia. And it has remained at the top ever since. There is a creative tasting menu with unique dishes filled with complementary flavors and textures. In addition to local produce, luxurious ingredients from around the world are used. The gastronomic experiences are complemented by a great location on the border between the city and the sea, the chef participating in the food service, and the open kitchen, where many of the dishes are impressively grilled over an open fire. The high quality of the drink menu is confirmed by a Michelin Guide Sommelier Award. Tõnis Siigur, the Executive Chef at NOA Chef´s Hall, is probably the most famous chef in Estonia. Head Chef Roman Sidorov is in charge of the restaurant’s daily operations.

16

Fine Dining

www.nch.ee

Ranna tee 3, Tallinn, +372 5080 589

Ocean 11 Restaurant in the Cruise Pier The restaurant Ocean 11 is Tallinn’s newest, and also most seaside, restaurant. The restaurant on the second floor of the multifunctional cruise terminal in the Old Port, which opened only last summer, provides an opportunity to discover the city from a completely new perspective, enchanting views of Tallinn Bay, the ships entering and leaving the port, and the sunset. Unlike the roguish comedy that has become a cult film, which the restaurant is named after , this is a totally serious place to eat and drink. In keeping with a harbour restaurant, the main emphasis is on fish and seafood, but meat lovers and vegans will not be disappointed. The menu is varied, including sumptuous lobster, but also more everyday fish and shellfish dishes, as well as oysters and entrecote. The interior design and service of the restaurant are also suitably elegant.

18

Fine Dining

www.facebook.com/restoranocean11

Mon-Fri 8 - 23, Sat-Sun 11 - 23, Logi tn 4/2, Tallinn, +372 5917 1351

Pull Outstanding meat dishes The founders of the Pull (Bull in English) Restaurant include Enn Tobreluts, Estonia’s most authoritative meat specialist and grill master, and therefore, one can be sure that the meat dishes served here are outstanding.

Most of the dishes are prepared over an open fire. And it is definitely worth trying the ‘dirty steak’, which is cooked in charcoal, and has become one of the restaurant’s signature dishes. The menu also includes fish and vegan dishes, but it is the very plentiful and highquality meat selection that is so impressive.

Fresh salads and a large selection of wines to accompany the meat are also on offer.

20 Fine Dining

www.resto.pull.ee

Mon-Thu 12–23, Fri-Sat 12–24, Sun 13–21, Rotermanni 2, +372 5382 5000

38 Restoran Gastronomes’ Fusion Temple

A restaurant that breaks culinary taboos has established itself in the historical building on Olevimägi at the back end of the Old Town. Chef Joonas Koppel dares to offer unconventional food experiences, but does so in a very glamorous way, i.e. more haute couture than smart casual or boho, to use fashion terms. The menu includes surprising taste combinations and harmonies, and a play of colours and forms. Inspiration from various national cuisines, along with diverse ingredients – both classical and contemporary – are used to shift the limits of traditional tastes. The gastronomic experience is framed by an interior design that doesn’t lack self-irony or a bit of black humour.

22 Fine Dining

www.38restoran.com

Olevimägi 9, Tallinn, +372 5698 0079

Rudolf A Frenchman with an Estonian accent The interior design of the Rudolf restaurant in Kadriorg has been influenced by Scandinavian minimalism. The name is a play on words related to Estonian cultural history and the street names in Kadriorg, while the menu transports our mood and thoughts to France.

Named after the Estonian composer Rudolf Tobias, the main tonality of the restaurant is inspired by the great classics of French food culture, to which unexpected harmonies add a modern hue. The foie gras harmonises with the juniper syrup from Saaremaa, the beef’s companion is a delicate truffle, the octopus is accompanied by domestic beetroot and marinated rhubarb as a ganache. The menu is complemented by a full drink menu. In the morning, a French-Estonian-style brunch is served. There’s an abbreviated lunch menu, and the evening menu starts from 5 pm.

24 Fine Dining

www.rudolfrestoran.ee

Tu-Sat 09 -23, Sun 09 - 15, R.Tobiase 11-1, Tallinn, +372 5309 0013

Smak Representatives of good taste Installed in a former limestone warehouse, the atmosphere at Smak is bright and light. The soul of the restaurant is Dmitri Rooz, one of Estonia’s top chefs, who has represented Estonia at the Bocuse d’Or, one of the world’s most prestigious cooking competitions. Regardless the chef’s great success, Smak is still the place to have a meal or a drink on any occasion: for lunch or dinner, for coffee and cake, or for a cocktail. Smak’s menu is an improvisation of well-known themes, where “something extra” has been added to old favourites – an unexpected touch, new taste nuances, or even a technological trick. Whereas, the surprises are not just games for the sake of games, but rather expansions of the culinary horizon.

26 Fine Dining

www.smak.ee | +372 588 77903

Mon-Thu 11 - 22, Fr-Sat 11 - 23, Sun 11 - 20, Lootsi 10-3, Tallinn

Tchaikovsky A gastronomic symphony The Tchaikovsky is respectable and formal, but in a subtle way – a slight undertone of nostalgia and a touch of theatricality don’t let its respectability predominate. Just like in a good musical composition, various themes are united in the menu – French flavours, Russian traditions, and Estonian raw ingredients – in order to provide an enjoyable combination. The style of cuisine at restaurant Tchaikovsky, dictated by head chef Denis Golik, is one of the best in Estonia and has received international recognition.

28 Fine Dining

www.telegraafhotel.com

Mon-Sun 17 - 23, Vene 9, Tallinn, +372 6000 610

Wicca Traditional tastes in a new way The Wicca restaurant is located thirty kilometres from Tallinn in LaSpa, one of the most popular spa hotels near Tallinn, which features views of coastal pines and the sea. The menu plays with Estonian food traditions, combining the old and the new in sometimes unexpected, but always very tasty, ways. Wicca always offers something that you won’t find in other restaurants, be it a novel flavour combination or a special ingredient not yet discovered by other restaurants. The raw ingredients come from Estonia’s small and organic producers, as well as from the forests and meadows.

Wicca’s chef is Angelica Udeküll, who also introduces Estonian flavours as the host of a popular cooking show on TV.

30 Fine Dining

www.laspa.ee | +372 6870 870

Mon-Fr 12 - 15, 17 - 22, Sat 12 - 23, Sun 12 - 22, Puhkekodu tee 4 Laulasmaa

Brasserie 11 Brasserie 11 in Fahle House There are only a few buildings in Tallinn that are known by their names and we have even fewer French eateries, so Brasserie 11 in the Fahle House is unique in many ways.

The Fahle House atop an industrial building formerly occupied by a pulp and paper mill has become a kind of landmark due to its architectural inventiveness. The Brasserie 11 menu includes the classics of French cuisine, to which chef Heidi Pinnak, who is one of the best in Estonia, has added unexpected nuances. Everything is on offer -- onion soup, frog legs, sole, tarte Tatin and much more.

The stylish and chic interior design with alternating art exhibitions create an elegant background for the restaurant. The French spirit is also conveyed by the wine selection, pleasant service and luxurious cake counter.

32 Casual Dining

www.brasserie11.ee

Mon-Sat 11 - 19, Tartu mnt 84a Tallinn, +372 5411 0112

City Grill House Modern grill restaurant in the Tallink City Hotel In the very heart of the city, there is a chic and buzzing two-story meeting place, which is loved by locals and foreigners alike. The laughter of friends and sound of cocktail glasses, the aroma of the grill and enjoyable music all create the atmosphere. Carefully selected ingredients and precise cooking methods enhance the best features of grilled food. Meat, seafood, vegetarian delights, and even delicious desserts, are prepared skilfully on the Mibrasa charcoal grill that gives the food a particularly rich taste. The grill menu is complemented by wine pairings from the Bon Vivant wine wall. Sundays in the restaurant are also spectacular, because that’s when the famous brunch takes place.

34 Casual Dining

www.tallinkhotels.com

A. Laikmaa 5, Tallinn, +372 630 0818

Ristorante Flavore A truly Italian experience Ristorante Flavore pays tribute to Italian traditions and flavours. In the contemporary interior of the Tulemaja (Fire House), you’ll find an easy-going atmosphere that reminds one of the importance of time spent together and food that feeds the soul. Carefully selected ingredients and the Italian chefs’ knowledge of traditional Mediterranean cuisine confirm an eternal truth – simplicity is the ultimate sophistication.

Because when offering truly pure flavours, it’s impossible to hide any imperfections.

It’s said that a Flavore pizza is so delicious that diners even eat the outer crust.

36 Casual Dining

www.flavore.ee

Tulemaja, Sadama 7, Tallinn, +372 612 8244

Jahu Resto Soulful Pastas and Pizzas The most delicious dishes at the slightly hipsterish Jahu Resto with a pleasant atmosphere are made from flour (jahu in Estonian) – pizzas and pastas dominate the menu. The food is simple, but the tastes are honest and finely refined. Fresh pasta is prepared on site every morning and the pizzas are among the best in town. The hits on the drink menu include coffee made from freshly roasted beans, interesting wines that are produced using natural methods, and Jahu beer brewed especially for the restaurant. In addition to the delicious food, a sustainable way of thinking also prevails: the building is shared with a ceramic tile salon. And at the beginning of the week, free coffee is offered to those who bring their own mugs, and as little plastic as possible is used in the kitchen.

38 Casual Dining

www.facebook.com/jahuresto

Sun-Thu 12 - 22, Fri-Sat 12 - 23.45, Kopli 3 Tallinn, + 372 5850 7556

Kampai To your health! Kampai!

Kampai is the only eatery in Estonia that represents Japanese izakaya culture. An izakaya is the Japanese equivalent of a gastropub, i.e. a place where friends can spend a lovely time together enjoying food and snacks. Built in the former Noblessner submarine factory, the interior of Kampai is uniquely eclectic, and the atmosphere is relaxed and pleasant. The sashimi, sushi, gyoza, karaage, ramen, salads and grilled dishes are prepared in the open kitchen in full view of the guests. The dishes are lovely and harmonious in a typically Japanese way, and the carefully selected ingredients ensure the pure flavours that are typical of Japanese cuisine. The beverage selection is varied, ranging from trendy cocktails to selected wines and sakes. the selection of the latter is probably the largest in Estonia.

40 Causal Dining

www.kampai.ee

Sun-Tue 12 - 22, Wed-Sat 12 - 23, Noblessner, Peetri 12, Tallinn, +372 5194 2222

Kolu Inn Traditional rural inn The Kolu Inn at the Open Air Museum in Rocca al Mare serves traditional Estonian food in an original 19th-century building.

The menu is focused on century-old traditions, but also makes some detours into the present day. As is typical of farm food, the dishes are simple, but prepared with a warm heart and skilful hands. In modern terms, the dishes at the Kolu Inn can be described as the most authentic slow food. The menu includes pork and porridge, sauerkraut, pea soup, and other simple farm dishes that fewer and fewer members of the younger generation still know how to prepare.

42 Casual Dining

www.evm.ee | +372 6549 118

Winter season Tu-Sun 10 - 17, Summer Mon-Sun 10 - 20, Vabaõhumuuseumi tee 12

NOK NOK Truly authentic Thai cuisine in the Old Town Here’s a truly authentic Thai restaurant in the Old Town of Tallinn. Chef Khampan Pukdangpan and his team will make sure you experience the warm hospitality and genuine flavours that are typical of the charming Kingdom of Thailand. Here, the perfect balance of salty, sweet, sour and bitter will take you on an exotic journey. In addition to working in Thailand and Estonia, chef Khampan Pukdangpan has also practiced his cooking secrets in world-class restaurants in Fiji, Maldives, Seychelles, Morocco, and the United Arab Emirates. Many of the dishes are prepared quickly at high temperatures to preserve the beneficial properties of the food, with the focus on the texture, colour, and harmony of the various tastes.

44 Casual Dining

www.noknok.ee

Vana-Posti 7, Tallinn, +372 5333 1744

Platz Meeting place at the crossroads of pedestrian pathways Platz was one of the first restaurants to establish itself in the newly renovated historical Rotermann industrial district.

And it secured the best location at the crossroads of the pedestrian pathways.

The minimalist Scandinavian-style interior and diverse menu are ideal for a nononsense business meeting, quick lunch or a formal dinner. On several occasions, Platz has been chosen as the restaurant with one of Estonia’s best beverage menus, which is much more diverse than usual. The terrace, which is an integral part of Platz in the summer, is a great place to rest and observe the hustle and bustle of the city.

46 Causal Dining

www.platz.ee

Mon-Sun 11:30 - 23, Roseni 7, Tallinn, +372 664 5086

SALT Trendy pleasures The menu at Salt combines contemporary street food and fusion cuisine in a special and slightly crazy way – unique to them.

As if trendy breezes are being caught in a culinary testing laboratory, and various flavours and countries are being mixed.

And yet, the guests’ sense of tolerance is not being tested. The atmosphere is also as special as the menu. The feeling in the small basement space is more typical of a homey dining room than a restaurant.

However, in contrast, the terrace with its courtyard feeling and view of the radio building provides an extremely urban experience.

48 Casual Dining

www.saltrestoran.ee

Tue-Sat 12 - 22, Vase 14, Tallinn, +372 518 8510

Tsunft A Workshop of Flavours in the Uus Maailm Neighbourhood

Tsunft is simultaneously a bakery, deli, wine bar, café, lunch restaurant and, during the second half of the week, an evening restaurant. They call themselves a workshop for breakfast, lunch and dinner in the Uus Maailm, i.e. a neighbourhood that has become one of the trendiest areas of Tallinn in recent years. A creative approach and fresh local farm products dominate at the restaurant.

In addition to delicious lunches and dinners, Tsunft has become famous for its open tartare sandwich, which is considered the best in the city by customers who appreciate steak tartare. The wine bar offers a wide selection from the Old World, including biodynamic and natural wines, as well as grower-champagnes.

50 Casual Dining

www.facebook.com/tsunftuusmaailm

Mon-Wed 9 - 19, Thu-Fri 9 - 22, Sat 9 - 17, Toom-Kuninga 21, +372 5905 9406

Balti Jaama Turg The largest food court in Estonia The Balti Jaama Turg is a renovated, modern universal market. It includes trendy secondhand shops, stalls loaded with fresh berries, fruits and vegetables, various cheeses, meats directly from butchers, chocolate shops and so much more. In addition to all that, Balti Jaama Turg has the largest food court in Estonia, where you can find burgers that have been chosen as 4th best in all of Europe, wraps, baos, vegan street food, fresh pastries and handmade French fries. The food court and market offer both Estonian, as well as other national cuisines, i.e.

Japanese, Ukrainian, Georgian, Chinese, Italian, French, South African and many more.

52 Street Food

www.astri.ee/bjt

VLND Burger

Vegmachine

Mon-Sat 9 - 20, Sun 9 - 18, Kopli 1, Tallinn

Uulits Street gourmet Uulits, the only local street food chain, which can also be considered the pioneer of street food in Estonia, offers traditional street fare with a healthy and contemporary approach. This is gourmet street food, prepared in the style of a first-class restaurants the burgers are prepared to order and everything is made on-site – beef burgers, burger wraps, salads, sauces and fries. Starting years ago with a modest kiosk, the chain has expanded to several locations in Tallinn, Viimsi, Tartu and summer season pop-up in Pärnu.

54 Street Food

www.uulits.ee | +372 6601 212

Tallinn - Kadaka tee 135A, Soo 1B/6, Kopli 1, Viimsi - Sõpruse tee 15, Tartu - Rüütli 7

Viru Burger Smashed burger from a fine dining chef Viru Burger started as a summer popup restaurant located on the roof of the Viru Keskus shopping centre. Today it has expanded to three locations: in the Volta House and Mustamäe Centre in Tallinn, as well as Tartu city centre. American-style smashed burgers, which have been made in the U.S. for almost 70 years are on the menu: the burger patties are cooked on a flattop grill under a special weight. The burgers are particularly juicy when prepared this way. Like in any proper burger, the meat, condiment and salad are well-balanced. The meat arrives at the restaurant from South Estonia. The sauces are made on-site. And the buns are baked fresh every day. In addition to the classics, the menu also includes an Animal-Style Burger with bacon that is flavoured maple syrup, a Truffle Burger with truffle mayonnaise and a vegetarian Scamburger.

56 Street Food

www.viruburger.ee

Tööstuse 47d, Tallinn, A.H Tammsaare tee 104a, Tallinn, Küüni 7, Tartu

Tartu – the city of good flavours Tartu is not only a university city, but also a city of good flavours. Its numerous restaurants serve exciting flavour experiences, whereas many of the raw ingredients came from local small producers and farms in South Estonia. During the summer, pop-up cocktail and wine bars, for taking time out in Tartu style, appear on the Emajõgi River promenade. The year’s greatest food event is the Food and Wine Festival in August, when good food and drink occupy the entire city for three days.

Other contributions are made by the Tasty Tartu Restaurant Month and the Home Café Days in May, August and September.

58

Hõlm Special and impressive Its location in Tartu, in the Hotel Lydia, a 4-star superior hotel at the foot of Toomemägi Hill, makes the Hõlm fine dining restaurant very special and impressive. The views from the windows of the modern building of the park and City Hall Square, elegant interior design, rich drink menu and menu designed by head chef Sven Pärn are also special. His dishes combine the historic with the modern: they are inspired by the recipes of the hotel and restaurant owner’s great grandmother, but executed with a modern twist. The open kitchen allows the guests to view the birth of the culinary art. The Hõlm provides the best that Tartu has to offer to lovers of good food. And a generous drink menu created by sommelier Alar Pärn.

60 Fine Dining

www.holmrestoran.ee

Tue-Fri 18 - 23, Sat 17 - 23, Ülikooli 14, Tartu, +372 730 4008

GMP Pühajärve Restaurant Enchanting atmosphere, delicious flavours The GMP Pühajärve Restaurant is like a hidden jewel on the shore of the picturesque Lake Pühajärv in South-Estonia. It has been among the best eateries in Estonia for years, by serving top-quality culinary arts. The menu includes many elegant dishes prepared from local ingredients, which always provide a positive surprise. Head chef Koit Uustalu’s efforts are not limited to what is prepared in the kitchen. And the entire team works hard to give the guests a warm welcome and make sure they feel comfortable. And these same values guide the entire staff at the GMP Clubhotel as a whole.

62 Fine Dining

www.clubhotel.ee | +372 50 733 74

Tue-Thu 12 - 22, Fri-Sat 12 - 23, Sun 12 - 20, Tennisevälja 1, Otepää

GMP Patisserie Paris in the heart of Tartu In Tartu, a city of cafes, it’s hard to surprise anyone, but the GMP Patisserie still does: the pastry display case makes you feel like you’ve ended up in Paris. The cakes and other baked goods not only look French, but also taste French: the croissants are light and crisp, the tartlets are elegant, and the eclairs are truly classic. The French confectioner has finessed the cakes and pastries, and at his request, the baguette flour is imported directly from France -- the local varieties do not produce the proper taste. Breakfast is served until noon, after which the menu also includes heartier fare. The experience is refined by soft chansons, fresh daily newspapers, and a bookshelf with French and Parisian-themed publications.

64 Casual Dining

www.patisserie.ee | +372 51 94 06 07

Mon-Thu 7:30 - 21, Fri 7:30 - 23, Sat 9 - 23, Sun 9 - 18, Küüni 5b, Tartu

Joyce Joy of Flavours The excellent choice of flavours at the Joyce restaurant is a delight. The proprietors have discovered that elusive something that makes a good restaurant into an excellent one. The menu creates unexpected harmonies, by passionately combining continents and lands. These result in some of the city’s most exciting flavour games, which are played with youthful fervour.

Joyce is focused on two values that are understood around the world: ‘joy’, which results from time spent in good company; and the ‘choice’ of impressive flavours that will please any guest.

66 Casual Dining

www.joyce.ee

Sun-Thu 12 - 23, Fri-Sat 12 - 00, Riia 2, Tartu, +372 53 217 500

Lääne-Viru County

Only a short drive from Tallinn is Lääne-Viru County, the land of historic manor houses and the picturesque north coast. The special nature and cultural heritage of Lahemaa National Park, with its bogs and giant boulders, provides the joy of discovery, as does the winding coastline with its shady coves and windy capes. The local “summer capital” is Võsu with its beautiful sandy beach, promenade, romantic cottages and various summer events.

68

Mere 38 Seaside Restaurant with a Special Vibe The small village of Võsu on the northern coast of Estonia could be called the gastronomic centre of Lahemaa National Park. A significant part of the village life and activities revolves around the Mere 38 restaurant where nothing is improper. The menu depends on what the sea currently provides, but also on one’s mood, weather and appetite. Joonas Koppel, who’s been the chef at some of the capital’s top restaurants, blends the world’s flavours and local ingredients with a light summery playfulness, and combines the classics with the latest gastronomic trends. The result is quite whimsical, providing novel experiences for even the most experienced foodies. The cosy atmosphere is enhanced by the sea and the sandy beach that is only a short walk away.

70 Causal Dining

www.mere38.ee

Mere 38, Vōsu, +372 5787 7009

The Islands and Lääne County If, restaurants elsewhere that appreciate local food try to obtain their raw materials from suppliers within a radius of a hundred kilometres, on the islands and in Lääne County, one doesn’t need to travel that far – almost everything exists locally. Through the ages, much of the staple food has come from the sea, which is why the fish dishes prepared there are better than anywhere else. Because the soil layer is thin, the coastal meadows have not been ploughed into fields, and the sheep and cattle are able to graze in the heritage landscapes as they’ve always done. The grain comes from the fields. The mushrooms and berries from the forests. Valuing seasonal local ingredients and a curiosity about the world’s gastronomic innovations has made sure that the eateries of the quiet resort town of Haapsalu, as well as the restaurants of Kuressaare, the largest city on the islands, have a place on the gastronomic map of Estonia. However, the Alexander restaurant, located on the small island of Muhu, which is one of the best in Estonia, is a miracle that must be seen with one’s own eyes.

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Alexander Restaurant at Pädaste Manor Flagship of hospitality Alexander Restaurant on the small and charming island of Muhu has been a driving force in Estonian restaurant culture for more than 25 years. The restaurant is located in a glorious light-filled room in the main house and its world-class cuisine is very much inspired by the spirit of its location and first-class personal service. The extraordinary hospitality stands for what one might call classic restaurant culture, but in a most innovative and refreshing way; creating a very enjoyable atmosphere. Alexander is famed for its Nordic Islands’ Cuisine, based on a respect for terroir; a love for seasons; and using carefully selected produce from local farmers and hunters. Many of the herbs, greens and flowers are grown in the restaurant’s own Kitchen Garden, or are foraged along the shore, and in the meadows and forests of the estate. Valuing local traditions does not mean being stuck in the past. To the contrary, the Alexander’s kitchen is highly innovative and wellgrounded in its own respectable philosophy.

74 Fine Dining

www.padaste.ee

Pädaste Manor, Muhu Island, Reservations are required. +372 454 8800

Dirhami Kalakohvik Fish Cafe at the End of the World In the small Dirham fish café, located in the far corner of Lääne County, where the bounty of the sea reaches the table, the menu is as changeable as the sea itself. Freshly caught fish from the sea or smoked at the local fishery, the harbour and fishing boats, the terrace on a sandy beach, as well as the rushes and sunset view, have all made this small eatery so popular that advance bookings are recommended. The dishes are simple, but full of surprising flavours. Dirham’s chef has discovered new nuances for preparing the most ordinary local fish, like Baltic herrings and sprats. The wine selection is not large, but harmonises well with the dishes. The service is low-key, and homely, as is typical of the countryside.

76 Casual Dining

www.dirhami.ee/kalakohvik

Dirhami, Noarootsi, Lääne County, +372 5177 899

Hapsal Dietrich The Promoter of Coffee Culture Hapsal Dietrich represents the long history of café culture in Haapsalu, the most idyllic small town in Estonia, by merging it with contemporary flavours. The old and the new have been beautifully combined, and the cafe is attractive, comfortable and cosy. The spirit and good taste of the once famous Dietrich confectionery store are evoked by a large and sumptuous cake counter and interior design details that are nearly a hundredyear-old. The café menu changes seasonally and is light and varied. Raw materials are sourced from local farmers and fishermen, and they grow much of the raw materials themselves. The menu includes Asian flavors, European classics and dishes representing Estonian cuisine. You’ll never be bored. The Dietrich team is always coming up with another surprise, which has been recognised by their guests for nine years already.

Unlike many of the other eateries in the resort town, Hapsal Dietrich is also open during the winter season.

78 Casual Dining

www.dietrich.ee

Karja 10, Haapsalu, +372 509 4549

Rose Classical cuisine with a Saaremaa accent Over the years, the Rose restaurant in Saaremaa’s popular Grand Rose SPA hotel, has earned the trust and approval of its guests, primarily for the dishes that are prepared with pure local ingredients, as well as for its friendly and attentive service. A historically romantic atmosphere reigns in this restaurant with its nooks and impressive arches. The menu offers international taste experiences with a local accent, by mainly using local ingredients. Novelty and unexpected flavours have been added by the recently hired head chef German Macharashvili. The restaurant’s drink menu includes a representative selection of Estonian craft beverages – beers, ciders and berry wines. The house liquors that Miika Õunaid, the restaurant’s sommelier, has created from local berries, and the cocktails he creates from them, have become very popular. However, the lemonade that he makes from spruce tree shoots has become the undisputed favourite.

80 Casual Dining

www.grandrose.ee

Sun-Thu 12 - 22:30, Fri-Sat 12 - 23, Tallinna 15, Kuressaare, +372 666 7003

Von Gernet CaféRestaurant Boutique hotel restaurant in a noble family’s summer home In Haapsalu, the newly restored Friedheim villa provides culinary and drink experiences in the Von Gernet café-restaurant. The restaurant has been named after the Gernets, the noble family who formerly owned the building. As is appropriate to its status, the menu caters to the food preferences of the tsarist court and is based on 19th-century cuisine. The classic style has been supplemented with modern ideas from both European and Russian cuisine. The restaurant’s flower-drenched terrace opens directly onto the seafront, providing enchanting sea views. The eye-catching interior design features spacious windows, a von Gernet family photo and display case filled with sumptuous patisserie, i.e., French-style pastries.

The Villa Friedham boutique hotel and Von Gernet Restaurant are part of the GMP Group, which has garnered fame among gourmets with the highly regarded Pühajärve GMP Clubhotel restaurant and GMP Patisserie café in Tartu.

82 Casual Dining

www.villafriedheim.ee

Supeluse 2, Haapsalu, +372 5199 6608

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