Savouring Estonia. From Fine Dining to Street Food 2020-2021

SAVOURING ESTONIA FROM FINE DINING TO STREET FOOD 2020-2021

Savouring Estonia FROM FINE DINING TO STREET FOOD

2020-2021

Cover Photo: Tiina-Liina Uudam Fotografiska Restaurant & Rooftop Garden Mo Closed, Tu-Sa 12–23, Su 10–17 Telliskivi 60a/8, Tallinn +372 5745 0922 fotografiska.com Texts: Heidi Vihma Designer: Aleksander Karu Translator: Juta Ristsoo Photos: Lauri Laan, Marek Metslaid, Kaupo Kalda, Priidu Saart, Tiina-Liina Uudam, private collections Publisher: Best Guides OÜ www.bestguides.ee Savouring Estonia 2020-2021 I print

Enjoy Savouring Estonia!

Our small country is filled with large flavours, exciting and unique eateries. Savouring Estonia has selected the best of the best. No matter whether it is a fancy, fine dining restaurant or the vendor of simple street food, they are all places where we eat, where we invite our friends and acquaintances, and that we are always happy to recommend to foreign visitors. Estonia has always been a border country both geographically and gastronomically. Like other Nordic countries, we prefer pure and fresh flavours. However, these have been enriched by both our close neighbours the Russians, as well as the Germans, with whom we shared a cultural space for centuries. Yet today, the local flavour palette includes the entire world – we are curious and open to trying new things.

Wishing you flavour journeys filled with new experiences,

Heidi Vihma

Restaurant Critic Estonia

Katrin Weiss Best Guides OĂœ Estonia

Content 4

Tallinn

36

OKO

6

Fotografiska Restaurant

38

Paju Villa

8

Gloria

40

Salt

10

Horisont

42

Taste of Tallinn

12

Mantel ja Korsten

44

Uulits

14

Moon

46

Tallinn Map

16

NOA

48

Tartu

18

NOA Chef's Hall

50

Hõlm

20

Puri

52

GMP Pühajärve Restaurant

22

Riviera Palais Brasserie

54

Joyce

24

Tchaikovsky

56

Pärnu

26

Teletorn Restaurant

58

Mon Ami

28

Tuljak

60

NOOT

30

Kolm Sibulat

62

Pastoraat

32

Kolu Inn

64

Tartu & Pärnu Map

34

Nautilus

Fine Dining Fine dining hasn’t meant classical restaurants with white tablecloths for a long time now.

Today, fine dining restaurants can be very unique and special. But basic truths never change and they still value the completeness of the experience, and turn their attention to all aspects thereof. These are places where the food and service are first class, and the menu represents the head chef’s unique creations that are born of commitment. In these places the beverage menu is outstanding, the design supports the whole, and attention is paid to the smallest details.

Casual Dining In some cases, the line between fine dining and casual dining may be paper-thin, but usually casual restaurants do not set goals that are comparable to fine dining. Instead they focus on the atmosphere. The casual style gives chefs the courage to try various flavour combinations and techniques, and provides the guests with a pleasant atmosphere in which to enjoy them.

Under the heading of casual dining, we have collected those restaurants and cafés that provide a gastronomical experience, pleasant service and relaxing ambience. These are places where you can also stop by for a drink, snack or light meal.

Street Food The fact that street food can also be gourmet food is proven by the best street food vendors around the world. During the last few years, local gourmet street food has also developed in Estonia. Initially, indeed based on examples from the rest of the world, since Estonian street food is still developing.

A new phenomenon on the Estonian culinary landscape is the chef going and ‘mixing with the people’. Searching for new challenges, internationally experienced top chefs are establishing street food kiosks, and applying their high culinary experience in a new context and raising street food to a totally new level.

Tallinn Tallinn – the city of good food During the last ten years, the Tallinn restaurant landscape has undergone exceptional rapid development. Good restaurants of various styles, which value local ingredients, can be found in every neighbourhood. The greatest concentration of restaurants, cafes and bars is in the Old Town, which is on the UNESCO World Heritage List. But when seeking gastronomic adventures, one shouldn’t limit themselves to the main thoroughfares, but also pop into some of the back streets.

In the city centre, it’s worth visiting the Rotermann Quarter, where there are many special eateries. Some of the fancier fine dining restaurants are located outside the city centre in Kadriorg, Pirita and elsewhere.

The street food is concentrated in trendy Kalamaja, especially around the Baltic Station, and in Pelgulinn. Tallinn is a food capital that deserves attention.

4

Fotografiska Restaurant & Rooftop Garden Sustainable and seasonal Fotografiska gets its inspiration from traditional local production methods and the changing of the seasons on the land, at sea and in the woods. Based on the sustainable thinking of our ancestors, nothing is wasted, the raw ingredients include everything from the blossoms to the roots and from the snouts to the tails.

The principle of sustainable enjoyment is not only adhered to in the kitchen, but recycling is also highly regarded throughout the restaurant. Head chef Peeter Pihel is probably the Estonian food authority who has attracted the most attention, having had a brilliant career at the Alexander restaurant in the Pädaste Manor, as well as at the Fäviken Magasinet in Sweden and Fulgurances in Paris, which are among the best in the world.

6

Fine Dining

fotografiska .com

Mo Closed, Tu-Sa 12–23, Su 10–17 | Telliskivi 60a/8, Tallinn | +372 5745 0922

Gloria Classics never age The interior and style of Gloria revive the 1930s – an era when time passed slowly and the guest was king. Built into the Tallinn’s medieval town wall, this restaurant with its nostalgia milieu has hosted Prince Charles, Pope John Paul II, the Rolling Stones, Sting, and other crowned and uncrowned stars. As is typical of a classical fine dining establishment, the tablecloths are sparkling white, mellow music strokes your ears, and the food, based on traditional French cuisine, is prepared from the best local ingredients. Compared to the culinary gymnastics currently being performed in the restaurant world, it is pleasant to see that this classic never ages.

8

Fine Dining

gloria .ee

Mo-Sa 17:30–23:30, Su closed | Müürivahe 2, Tallinn | +372 6406 800

Horisont In the heavenly heights

In Tallinn’s gastronomic world there are only a few top restaurants that extend beyond the Horisont (horizon). All the others are below this one – not only because the restaurant is located on the 30th floor of the Swissôtel, but because it has been one of Estonia’s best restaurants for years. The Horisont’s menu balances classic and contemporary cuisine, while always offering something surprising.

The service, just like the cuisine, is also excellent. And the first-rate sommelier will help you choose a suitable beverage from the large drink menu.

10

Fine Dining

horisontrestoran.ee

Tu-Sa 18–22 | Tornimäe 3, Tallinn | +372 6243 000

Mantel ja Korsten Taste experiences in a small wooden house in Kadriorg Cosy homeyness and elegant cuisine meet up at the Mantel ja Korsten restaurant in a green wooden house with a red roof in Kadriorg. The name comes from a rare architectural feature called a mantel chimney, which has a small private dining room inside. The signature kitchen offers many great Mediterranean-inspired dishes. The flavours surprising as do the simplicity and naturalness with which the homey and foreign ingredients have been blended into a harmonious whole. The exciting drink menu is impressive. Trust the sommelier, who will recommend the best choice!

12

Fine Dining

mantel-korsten.ee

Tu-Fr 17–23, Sa 12–23, Su-Mo closed | Poska 19a, Tallinn | +372 6659 555

- RE ST O RAN KA L A MA J A S -

Moon Modern Russian cuisine

Moon was established about ten years ago, when head chef Roman Zaštšerinski, who was at the absolute pinnacle of Estonian cuisine at the time, decided to give up fine dining, return to his roots and establish a family restaurant with his wife and cousin. Moon was one of the few Tallinn restaurants to focus on modern Russian cuisine.

Since the beginning – with a few minor changes – the menu has included classic Russian borscht, pelmeni, blini, and pasties. This is a cosy eatery with a very special atmosphere, where the food is always good, the beverage selection is very large, and the service is friendly and thoughtful.

14

Fine Dining

restoranmoon.ee

Mo-Sa 12–23, Su 13–21 | Võrgu 3, Tallinn | +372 6314 575

NOA Top cuisine for everyone The NOA à la carte restaurant and NOA Chef’s Hall with a tasting menu get together under the roof of a unique building with a perfect sea view. The two sides of the building, with different looks but a single style, comprise a whole that creates a separate gastronomic world.

The menu at NOA is unparalleled, special and surprising. It has been inspired by travels and the cuisines of the world. The attentive service and the beverage menu form an equal partnership with the kitchen.

The NOA is located directly on the seaside on the border between Tallinn and Viimsi, enabling the guests the beautiful view that has become Tallinn’s symbol.

16

Fine Dining

noaresto.ee

Mo-Th 12–23, Fr-Sa 12–00, Su 12–22 | Ranna 3, Tallinn | +372 5080 589

NOA Chef's Hall Breaking traditions NOA Chef´s Hall’s rise to the top was rapid. The year that it opened it was already named Estonia’s best restaurant. And it has stayed at the top. A tasting menu is on offer, with your choice of a suitable wine, champagne or juice. The dishes that have been refined down to the last detail are unique, fantasy-filled and hearty. Many of the dishes are prepared over an open fire. The open kitchen and presence of the head chef add scope to the gastronomic experience. Executive chef Tõnis Siigur is truly one of the most famous in Estonia, and the same school is represented by the head chef, a young talent named Orm Oja.

18

Fine Dining

nch.ee

We-Sa 18–00 | Ranna 3, Tallinn | +372 5080 589

Puri Open to new winds Opened in the spring of 2019, the Puri (Sail in English) restaurant in the Haven Kakumäe marina brings new winds to both Estonian gastronomy and restaurant architecture.

An incomparable view and striking interior design make it a restaurant with one of the most memorable seaside atmospheres in the city. The menu offers a choice between a tasting menu that provides an in-depth introduction to Joonas Koppel’s personal cuisine, and a customary à la carte menu. The food experience is supplemented by a befitting wine selection and fantasy-rich cocktails.

20

Fine Dining

puriresto.ee

Mo-Th 17–23, Fr 17–00, Sa 12–00, Su 11–17 | Lesta 16, Tallinn | +372 5371 1111

Riviera Palais Brasserie Magical fairy tale about the Riviera The Riviera Palais Brasserie carries on the legendary tradition of restaurant life during Estonia’s golden age in the 1930s, when a luxurious restaurant-nightclub with the same name was located in Maarjamäe Castle. This unique restaurant has been revived with a contemporary interior and aura.

The team, which has been tempered by the excitement of the kitchen at the Salt Restaurant, has again created something unique, but at a totally different scale – both the castle restaurant and terrace with its magnificent sea view is like a magical fairy tale about the Riviera. However, the menu does not soar to fairy-tale heights, but rather offers a selection typical of Parisian brasseries. And maintains a classical and simple style.

22

Fine Dining

facebook.com/rivierapalais

Tu 10–20, We-Th 10–22, Fr-Sa 10–22:30, Su 10–18 | Pirita tee 56, Tallinn | +372 6968 677

Tchaikovsky A gastronomic symphony

The Tchaikovsky is respectable and formal, but in a subtle way – a slight undertone of nostalgia and a touch of theatricality don’t let its respectability predominate. Just like in a good musical composition, various themes are united in the menu – French flavours, Russian traditions, and Estonian raw ingredients – in order to provide an enjoyable combination. The personal style of head chef Vladisav Djatšuk, one of the best in Estonia, has received international recognition. ‘A pinch of humour, salt and love’ characterises his cuisine.

24

Fine Dining

telegraafhotel.com

Mo-Su 18–23 | Vene 9, Tallinn | +372 6000 610

TV Tower Restaurant High up in the sky The TV Tower Restaurant is in heavenly heights. The talented head chef Mihkel Kalbus appreciates familiar and inherent Estonian flavours, but serves them an innovative and contemporary way. On the same floor with the restaurant is an open viewing platform that is the highest in Northern Europe. The view is not only beautiful during sunsets, but also when it’s cloudy or dark.

However, the TV Tower offers much more than just good food and a view – it is an experience centre, where there’s always something exciting to see. The TV Tower is only a short drive from the heart of the city, and is also very accessible by public transportation.

26

Fine Dining

teletorn.ee

Busses: 34a, 38 | Su-Th 10–21, Fr-Sa 10–23 | Kloostrimetsa 58a, Tallinn | +372 5111 493

Tuljak A modern take on history

At the Tuljak, history meets modern design: the building, an Estonian architectural masterpiece that was completed in 1965, has undergone a renovation that is true to that era, but has acquired a contemporary interior. There is also nostalgic feel to the menu. However, a contemporary and exciting spin has been added to all the dishes. One can be absolutely sure that something unique will be served at Tuljak and nothing like it is available anywhere else in Tallinn. The beverage menu is more varied than average. The cocktails are stylish and flavourful. The service is attentive and professional.

28

Fine Dining

tuljak.ee

Mo-Th 12–23, Fr-Sa 12–00, Su 12–22 | Pirita tee 26E, Tallinn | +372 5302 2020

Kolm Sibulat Limitless onions Just like real onions, the Kolm Sibulat (three onions) restaurant is also striated: the inspiration for the menu has come from both Asia and Europe, from both fast and slow food. Kimchi, lentils, slowcooked meat dishes with Asian-style seasoning, cold-water fish and local vegetables are presented in new and exciting combinations. Regardless of which corner of the world has provided the inspiration, the components are balanced and the flavours are perfectly harmonised. The large beverage selection, professional service and cosy atmosphere help maintain the balance.

This is a family restaurant, created by the same people as Moon, which features Russian cuisine, and the Mantel ja Korsten.

30

Casual Dining

kolmsibulat.eu

Every day 12–23 | Telliskivi 2, Tallinn | +372 6644 055

Kolu Inn Traditional rural inn

The Kolu Inn at the Open Air Museum in Rocca al Mare serves traditional Estonian food in an original 19th-century building. The menu is focused on century-old traditions, but also makes some detours into the present day.

As is typical of farm food, the dishes are simple, but prepared with a warm heart and skilful hands. In modern terms, the dishes at the Kolu Inn can be described as the most authentic slow food. The menu includes pork and porridge, sauerkraut, pea soup, and other simple farm dishes that fewer and fewer members of the younger generation still know how to prepare.

32

Casual Dining

evm.ee

Every day Winter season 11–17, Summer 11–20 | Vabaõhumuuseumi tee 12 | +372 6549 101

The Nautilus Seafood and oysters It is very likely that the seafood selection at The Nautilus is the largest, not only in Tallinn, but in all of Estonia. In addition to an abundant oyster selection, there’s a large choice of mussels and shrimps, crabs and much more.

In addition to an excellent fish selection, there are meat dishes for those who don’t eat fish. The Nautilus chefs are skilful and creative and many of the dishes use seafood in surprising combinations. Some of the dishes, like king crab legs, lobster, octopus, tuna steak, as well as beef fillets are prepared on a charcoal grill.

34

Casual Dining

facebook.com/thenautilusrestaurant

Pikk 36, Tallinn | +372 5780 7777

OKO Slow fast food

OKO, which is located in Haabneeme, is a beach restaurant that is open year-round. It is the perfect place for a light lunch, a formal dinner or a refreshing drink. The heart of the contemporary style eatery is the pizza oven. The authentic Italian pizzas baked in the oven are made with leavened dough made with 10-yearold natural starter brought from Rome by the Italian pizza master, who also refined the flavours. The menu also features other street food classics, which just like the pizza are prepared with great dedication and care.

36

Casual Dining

okoresto.ee

Su-Thu 12–21, Fr-Sa 12–22 | Kesk tee 27 Haabneeme, Viimsi | +372 5300 4440

Paju Villa Gourmet experiences in the suburbs The Paju Villa restaurant is located in the greenery of the NĂľmme suburb in an Art Nouveau building dating back to the first decades of the last century. Elegant, but homey, warm and snug, provides cosy corners for larger and smaller groups of diners.

The menu offers modern versions of classical dishes and the head chef has enough fantasy to freshen the most traditional combinations.

The Paju Villa is outside of the city centre, but its location on the road that leads to Pärnu, Haapsalu and the islands makes it a great place to stop before or after your trip.

38

Casual Dining

pajuvilla .ee

Mo-Th 12–22, Fr-Sa 12–23, Su 11–22 | Vabaduse puiestee 88, Tallinn | +372 5076 242

Salt Trendy pleasures

The menu at Salt combines contemporary street food and fusion cuisine in a special and slightly crazy way – unique to them. As if trendy breezes are being caught in a culinary testing laboratory, and various flavours and countries are being mixed. And yet, the guests’ sense of tolerance is not being tested. The atmosphere is also as special as the menu. The feeling in the small basement space is more typical of a homey dining room than a restaurant. However, in contrast, the terrace with its courtyard feeling and view of the radio building provides an extremely urban experience.

40

Casual Dining

saltrestoran.ee

Tu-Fr 12–14 / 17–22:30, Sa 17–22:30 | Vase 14, Tallinn | +372 5188 510

Taste of Tallinn T1 Mall of Tallinn The complex of eateries at the T1 Mall of Tallinn shopping centre in the Ülemiste neighbourhood of Tallinn is called Taste of Tallinn, or TOT. Restaurants, street food and café culture all meet at TOT. That’s were flavours from Asia to the Nordic countries, from Italy to India meet. The complex includes 22 restaurants, cafes and bars, of which 11 are located on the 4th floor, far from the commercial bustle. The eateries facing the city centre are connected by a spacious art gallery and terrace with million-dollar view of the city and the sea. The Ferris wheel and Panorama T1 Bar also provide stunning panoramas.

42

Casual Dining

Casual Dining

t1tallinn.com/en/taste-of-tallinn-restoranid

Mo-Fr 11–21, Sa-Su 11–22 | Peterburi tee 2, Tallinn | +372 6005 540

Uulits Street gourmet Uulits, the only local street food chain, which can also be considered the pioneer of street food in Estonia, offers traditional street fare with a healthy and contemporary approach. This is gourmet street food, prepared in the style of a first-class restaurants the burgers are prepared to order and everything is made on-site – beef burgers, burger wraps, salads, sauces and fries. Starting with a modest kiosk in Tallinn’s Mustamägi last six years ago, the chain has expanded to include locations in Kalamaja, the Baltic Station market and Tartu.

44

Street Food

uulits.ee

Kadaka tee 135A, Soo 1B/6, Kopli 1 Tallinn I Rüütli 7, Tartu | +372 6601 212

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Tallinn Map

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26

6

Fotografiska Restaurant

8

Gloria

10

Horisont

12

Mantel ja Korsten

14

Moon

16

NOA

18

NOA Chef's Hall

20

Puri

22

Riviera Palais Brasserie

24

Tchaikovsky

26

Teletorn Restaurant

28

Tuljak

30

Kolm Sibulat

32

Kolu Inn

34

Nautilus

36

OKO

38

Paju Villa

40

Salt

42

Taste of Tallinn

44

Uulits

Tartu The city of good flavours Tartu is not only a university city, but also a city of good flavours. Its numerous restaurants serve exciting flavour experiences, whereas many of the raw ingredients came from local small producers and farms in South-Estonia. During the summer, pop-up cocktail and wine bars, for taking time out in Tartu style, appear on the Emajõgi River promenade.

The year’s greatest food event is the Food and Wine Festival in August, when good food and drink occupy the entire city for three days. Other contributions are made by the Tasty Tartu Restaurant Month and the Home Café Days in May, August and September.

48

Hõlm Special and impressive Its location in Tartu, in the Hotel Lydia, a 4-star superior hotel at the foot of Toomemägi Hill, makes the Hõlm fine dining restaurant very special and impressive. The views from the windows of the modern building of the park and City Hall Square, elegant interior design, rich drink menu and menu designed by head chef Lauri Ülenurme are also special. His dishes combine the historic with the modern: they are inspired by the recipes of the hotel and restaurant owner’s great grandmother, but executed with a modern twist. The open kitchen allows the guests to view the birth of the culinary art. The Hõlm provides the best that Tartu has to offer to lovers of good food. And a generous drink menu created by sommelier Franc Vood.

50

Fine Dining

holmrestaurant.ee

Mo-Fr 18–23, Sa 17–23 | Ülikooli 14, Tartu | +372 7304 008

GMP Pühajärve Restaurant Enchanting atmosphere, delicious flavours The GMP Pühajärve Restaurant is like a hidden jewel on the shore of the picturesque Lake Pühajärv in South-Estonia. It has been among the best eateries in Estonia for years, by serving top-quality culinary arts. The menu includes many elegant dishes prepared from local ingredients, which always provide a positive surprise. Head chef Koit Uustalu’s efforts are not limited to what is prepared in the kitchen. And the entire team works hard to give the guests a warm welcome and make sure they feel comfortable. And these same values guide the entire staff at the GMP Clubhotel as a whole.

52

Fine Dining

clubhotel.ee

Tu-Th 12–22, Fr-Sa 12–23, Su 12–20 | Tennisevälja 1, Otepää | +372 5073 374

Joyce Joy of flavours The excellent choice of flavours at the Joyce restaurant is a delight.

The proprietors have discovered that elusive something that makes a good restaurant into an excellent one. The menu creates unexpected harmonies, by passionately combining continents and lands. These result in some of the city’s most exciting flavour games, which are played with youthful fervour.

Joyce is focused on two values that are understood around the world: ‘joy’, which results from time spent in good company; and the ‘choice’ of impressive flavours that will please any guest.

54

Fine Dining

joyce.ee

Su-Th 12–23, Fr-Sa 12–24 | Riia 2, Tartu | +372 5321 7500

Pärnu Pärnu, Estonia's summer capital Pärnu’s food and restaurant life is especially lively in the summer, although wonderful places to eat can be found there year round.

There are cosy eateries in every part of town, but most of them are in the beach area and the city centre. And both the classical and contemporary, traditional and trendy are represented. Every year, one is surprised by the appearance of some totally new eatery, and the wellestablished restaurants and cafés are always coming out with new menus. And the careers of quite a few gastronomic superstars who have made a name for themselves have started in Pärnu.

56

Mon Ami Elegantly formal

Elegantly formal, Mon Ami, one of the most interesting eateries in the summer capital, is located on the lower floor of the Frost boutique hotel. Fresh flowers, subtle grey-and-white tones create an especially peaceful mood. In the cold weather, the guests are greeted by a fire burning in the fireplace. And the waiters pay personal attention to each visitor. The menu unites classical and contemporary trends by adding fresh approach to traditional combinations â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Saaremaa juniper syrup has been added to the foie gras, and wild leek oil to the octopus.

58

Fine Dining

facebook.com/restoranmonami

Mo-Su 12–23 | Kuninga 11, Pärnu | +372 5866 9990

NOOT Discover authentic Estonian flavours The NOOT is a modern restaurant in Pärnuâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s beach district. The resort-like interior has been inspired by folk designs. Rudolf Visnapuu, the renowned head chef and author of the menu, uses mostly local and seasonal ingredients to create his dishes. The menu is fresh and based on Estonian food traditions, while also stimulating the taste buds of gourmets with exciting combinations. Timeless and traditional recipes along with modern additions, and some global flavours, produce simple, visually interesting and tasty dishes. Works of art that are pleasantly surprising and offer the joy of discovery.

60

Fine Dining

spaestonia .ee

Mo-We 17–23, Th-Su 12–23 | A. H. Tammsaare 4a, Pärnu | +372 4401 012

Pastoraat Cafe A hospitable parsonage

The Pastoraat shares its building with the Rosenplänter boutique hotel. The hotel and cafĂŠ in a beautifully restored wooden house have been named after an Estophile pastor and his living and working quarters, i.e. a parsonage. This is an especially hospitable place, where guests are welcome to have an early breakfast, lunch or dinner, or just drinks â&#x20AC;&#x201C; the cocktails are said to be among the best in the city. Fresh baked goods are prepared daily, and the full menu includes dishes made of simple ingredients, but prepared with great skill.

62

Casual Dining

rosenplanter.ee

Mo-Th 7:30–21:30, Fr 7:30–23, Sa 8–23, Su 8–21 | Kuninga 30, Pärnu | +372 5787 7857

Otepää Map

Tartu Map 50

Hõlm

52

GMP Pühajärve Restaurant

54

Joyce

Centre

52

50

54

64

Pärnu Map 58

Mon Ami

60

NOOT

62

Pastoraat

62

58

60