Page 1

Probook


SUMMARY

Page

INTRODUCTION

1

TYPOLOGY OF THE- CLIENT

2

SCABAL’S MEASUREMENTS KIT

3

BASIC RULES

4

ADMINISTRATIVE DATA

7

MODELS AND PERSONALISATION

8

BODY MEASUREMENTS

10

JACKET:

12

BALANCE / POSTURE V10Erect posture V24+ Open front panel V43+ Front length longer (shoulder-neck point) V10+ Bent posture V24Close front panel V43Front length shorter (shoulder-neck point) V19Pleat under collar V19+ Round back V17Deeper pocketdart (stout and / or very stout)

14 16 18 20 22 24 26 28 30

CHEST V13 Prominent chest V39 ½ Chest width (armhole) Introduction back width V3 ½ Back width V26 ½ Back width (CBS) FM ½ Back width

32 34 36 37 38 40

SHOULDER Introduction shoulder width V9 Shoulder width (shoulder-arm point) V41 ½ Collar diameter (shoulder-neck point) FM Shoulder width V23½ Collar diameter (CBS) V11Sloping shoulder(s) V11+ Square shoulder(s) V59+ Shoulders to the front

41 42 44 46 48 50 52 54

SLEEVE V15 V18 V30 V32

56 58 59 61

Armhole diameter ½ Wrist width Depth of armhole deeper / higher Sleeve to the back / front


WAIST AND SEAT Introduction waist and seat width V8 ½ Overlap V48 ½ Waist (FP – underarm seam) V6 ½ Waist (BP – side seams) V25 ½ Waist & ½ Seat (CBS) V20 ½ Waist & ½ Seat (BP – side seam) V21 ½ Waist & ½ Seat (SP – side seam) V22 ½ Waist & ½ Seat (SP – underarm seam) V28 ½ Waist & ½ Seat (FP & SP- underarm seams) V36 ½ Waist & ½ Seat (CBS collar - hem) FM ½ Jacket width V7 ½ Seat (BP & SP – side seams) V27 ½ Seat (SP – underarm seam)

63 66 68 70 72 74 76 78 80 82 84 86 88

LENGTH Introduction Jacket length V1 Jacket length (hem + waist) FM Jacket length FM Sleeve length

90 92 94 95

LENGTH / DETAILS V34 Jacket length (hem) V35 Waistlevel higher / lower V60 Pocketlevel higher / lower V14 Buttonlevel (highest button) lower / higher FM Buttonlevel (CBS – highest button) V16 Length of vent shorter / longer

97 99 100 101 103 105

OTHER V31 Front form rounder / straighter

106

SUMMARY ALTERATIONS JACKET By code By chapter Schematic diagram

107 109 111

TROUSERS: INTRODUCTION RISE Introduction P15 Backrise – seatlevel close / open P6 Backrise / waistband level P5 Frontrise (max. 1,5 cm) P21 Frontrise (more than 1,5 cm) P1 Rise (all around) P28+ Hip higher on 1 side FM Outseam excl. waistband FM Inseam

112

113 115 117 119 121 123 124 126 127


WAISTBAND Introduction P3 ½ Waistband P27 ½ Waistband on front P14 ½ Waistband & ½ Seat FM ½ Waistband

129 130 132 134 135

SEAT WIDTH AND CROTCH DIAMETER Introduction P16 ½ Seat P11 Rounding hip BP P12 Rounding hip FP P13 Center back seam P10 Crotch BP P23 Crotch FP FM ½ Crotch diameter

136 138 140 140 143 145 147 149

LEG OF TROUSERS P17 Thigh width at 10 cm (circumference) FM ½ Thigh width (at 10 cm) FM ½ Knee width FM ½ Bottom width P8 O-Legs P9 X-Legs

150 151 152 153 154 155

SUMMARY ALTERATIONS TROUSERS By code By chapter Schematic diagram

156 157 158

WAISTCOAT: INTRODUCTION

159

BALANCE / POSTURE GN10Erect posture GN43+ Front length longer (shoulder-neck point) GN10+ Bent posture GN43Front length shorter (shoulder-neck point) GN19Pleat under collar GN19+ Round back GN17Deeper pocketdart (stout or very stout)

160 162 164 166 168 170 172

CHEST GN13 Prominent chest GN40½ Chest width (overlap) GN26 ½ Back width (CBS)

174 176 178

SHOULDER GN9 Shoulder width (shoulder-arm point) GN41 ½ Collar diameter (shoulder-neck point) GN23½ Collar diameter (CBS) GN11Sloping shoulder(s) GN11+ Square shoulder(s)

180 181 183 185 186


ARMHOLE GN15 Armhole diameter GN30 Depth of armhole deeper / higher

188 190

WAIST- AND SEATWIDTH Introduction GN8 ½ Overlap GN6 ½ Waist (side seams) GN25 ½ Waist & ½ hem (CBS) GN20 ½ Waist & ½ hem (side seams) GN36 ½ Waist & ½ hem (CBS collar - hem) GN98 ½ Chest & ½ waist & ½ hem (side seams) FM ½ Waistcoat width GN7½ Hem (side seams)

191 193 195 197 199 201 203 205 207

LENGTH GN1 Waistcoat length FM Waistcoat length

208 210

LENGTH / DETAILS FM Front length (CBS – point FP) GN14 Opening (highest button) lower / higher FM Opening (CBS - highest button)

212 214 216

OTHER GN31 Overlap (lower level) less / more

218

SUMMARY ALTERATIONS WAISTCOAT By code By chapter Schematic diagram

219 221 223

COAT

224

CEREMONIAL V97 Cut / Tailcoat Upperpart

226 227

SIZE CONFIGURATION

228

REORDERS MTM / REPEAT ORDERS

231

MAXIMUM VALUE OF THE ALTERATIONS

232

MAXIMUM ACCEPTED DIFFERENCE BETWEEN ASYMETRICAL ALTERATIONS

235

LEXICON

236


INTRODUCTION All the necessary steps to correctly complete an order form are clearly described on the following pages – the prerequisite to obtaining an individual, fitting Scabal suit. After a short explanation of the administrative part of the order form and a description of the fields that concern models and execution, we will go into the measurements topic in detail. The order form gives a useful sequence to measurements in the area of measurement changes, which we also follow in our descriptions. Each description of a measurement change or size is structured in such a way that the first page conveys basic knowledge and the second page relays background knowledge and practical experiences. When you get to know our «measurement system», we suggest that you mainly concentrate on basic knowledge. Only once you have gained some experience with measurements, will our «Tips» be of interest to you. To suit your experience, as well as your individual requirements, we offer various order forms and meaurement references: • • •

the «Easy» Form with a few important finished sizes; the «Standard» Form that includes finished sizes, but also expands upon posture and measurement alterations on try-on garments.; the «Pro» Form that gives you the most room in dimension design, but requires extensive knowledge

You can obtain the forms on our website as PDF files for printing or in Excel format to complete and submit by e-mail (via www.scabal.com / Professional / Business Fabrics Catalog / Order sheets / ). Good luck with your measurements!

Scabal & Tailor Hoff – team

© All texts and pictures are property of Scabal. Nothing in this publication may be reproduced in whole or in part without the written permission of Scabal.

1


TYPOLOGY OF THE CLIENT In order to guarantee maximum satisfaction for the client and to meet his requirements as well as possible, it is vital to understand his personality and the reasons why he has chosen made-to-measure garments. Gentlemen who choose personalized clothing can thus be classified into three main groups: Fashion-conscious: young clients, who are attracted by the world of fashion, who keep up to date with the latest trends and are always willing to explore new ideas. The ‘look’ and social kudos are paramount for this type of client. • Choice-conscious: experienced clients, who know what they want to the last detail (fabrics, options, cuts, etc). For this type of client, the most important factor is to be able to make his own choices and to stand out from his peers with a suit that is uniquely his. • Comfort-conscious: these clients seek perfection. The garments’ comfort and the accuracy of the cut are key to this type of gentleman. •

Fashion-conscious

Choice-conscious

Comfort-conscious

2


MEASUREMENTS KIT Taking measurements is a delicate and exacting procedure that must be observed with the greatest accuracy. In order to obtain flawless results, Scabal recently developed its very own measurements kit. Both elegant and practical, the kit (which is only available on request) contains all the tools needed to take measurements and the client’s personalization options.

KIT CONTENTS

Tape-measure with leather hook Pin-cushion with adjustable leather bracelet Linings Buttons Under-collar felts Model book Measurements table Price list Order forms Scabal pencil Scabal Post-Its (Scissors and chalk not included)

DIMENSIONS

47x36x28cm

3


BASIC RULES Before approaching how to take measurements, it is essential to illustrate some basic rules that are inherent to the sale of a personalized suit, which are divided into two categories, ‘Implicit’ rules and ‘Practical’.

‘Implicit’ rules UNDERSTAND YOUR CLIENT

To successfully sell a made-to-measure suit, it is first necessary to understand your customer and his needs. These are mainly related to his lifestyle and personality - what is his profession? Is he shy or more outgoing? Why does he want a personalized suit? How often will he wear it? Is he very fashion conscious? Finding the answers to these questions is essential to your customer’s complete satisfaction.

UNDERSTAND YOUR CLIENT’S WIFE (PARTNER)

Never underestimate the influence that your client’s partner will have in choosing his ‘look’ - many men, in fact, only ever buy their clothes accompanied by their ‘other half ’, and some even leave the choice completely up to their beloved. It is simple to quickly spot the gentlemen who make their own choices, and those who are guided by their partner - make sure that you pay adequate attention to the lady (partner), in either case.

SOBER STYLE

It is obvious that the people who have a more sober, calm and straightforward style will not be as attracted to ‘relaxed’ clothing, nor are they likely to be as motivated by a desire for the latest, trendiest fabrics or suit style. Thus, it is advisable to accentuate on comfort and formal style.

MORE RELAXED STYLE

Gentlemen with a more relaxed attitude tend to opt for more flexible fabrics and sharper colours, to express their outgoing personality and spontaneity. Here, the very broad range of options, models and fabrics offered by Scabal will allow you easily to meet the wishes of the client who prefers his wardrobe to match his mood. In conclusion, it is paramount to place your customer’s style centre stage - and Made By You is the tool that will allow you to do just that.

Never underestimate female decision-making power

4


Practical rules For the person taking measurements, it is necessary to have a perfect command of certain basic principles, to avoid error.

TAKING THE ORDER - THE FOUR STAGES

Taking an order for personalized clothing is carried out via four stages, follow a chronological order: First, the client selects his choice of fabric ‘bunch’. At Scabal, more than 5,000 fabrics are permanently available, gathered into bunches, which in turn are classified by season, style, and suitability for garment types.

Then the client makes his choice from the personalization options available, which will make his suit unique. Scabal offers more than 200 possibilities, such as the choice of lining, buttons, embroidery of initials, cellphone pocket, and so on.

Once he has chosen his fabric and options, the customer then decides which style of suit he wishes to order. Figurehugging trousers, full trousers with hem, a reverse-curved jacket – the possibilities are enormous. Here, the salesman’s skill lies in detecting whether the customer’s priorities are more focused on comfort or style, or whether he is looking for something with both.

The fourth and final stage comprises the measurements-taking procedure itself, ensuring that these measurements are faithfully translated into the finished product. Here, precision and discipline are paramount.

5


CLIENT’S POSTURE

The client must be measured in a relaxed, natural posture, so as not to distort the measurements and the balance of the clothing. Thus, taking measurements in front of a mirror is not advised, as the client tends to adopt a more formal pose.

SHIRT AND SWEATER

The client should wear a long-sleeve shirt in order to determine the best length of the jacket. In addition, with comfort being paramount, the client should always be asked whether he wishes to wear a sweater under his winter jacket, and to allow for this possibility when transcribing the measurements onto the purchase order.

LENGTH OF TROUSERS

Trouser-length measurements should be taken on a flat floor and not, for example, on a thick carpet. The customer should also wear appropriate shoes - generally, we advise business shoes with heels.

BELT OR BRACES?

Finally, it is necessary to ask the client if he usually wears trouser-braces, in order to take measurements. This is essential to determine the height and width of the trousers.

WALLET

If the client is in the habit of carrying his wallet in the ‘revolver’ pocket, it is advisable to increase the width of the trousers.

Now we have covered the preliminaries, we can proceed to the formal training in taking measurements.

When being fitted, the client should always wear a long-sleeve shirt.

6


ADMINISTRATIVE DATA Fill in the following fields on your ordersheet COMPANY

The name of your company

CLIENT NUMBER

You will find this on most of the documentation that we issue in your company’s name: order confirmations, invoices, etc.

CUSTUMOR

The name of your client

FOR MEASUREMENTS SEE ORDER NUMBER OR CONFIRMATIONS NUMBER

When placing a repeat order, you have the possibility of calling up a reference order, in which you specify the order number or order confirmation number of the previous order. To transfer measurements, the ordered model must be selected from the same model line as the model in the reference order (please also read through the „Repeat Order“ section). With each order, the infividual feature variations (for example options, lining colour, etc) need to be re-specified.

ORDER DATE

Date of order

DELIVERY DATE

Here you can choose between ‚Standard’ or ‚Express’ production. Please take the corresponding delivery date from the current delivery schedule. Here we refer to estimated delivery times; in individual cases, delivery date changes may occur. In any event, please arrange ‚Express’ dates with your advisor.

ORDERNUMBER

This number is decided by you. Please be sure to use each order number only once, since it constitutes a search criteria for us.

SALESMAN

Te name of your salesman

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MODELS & PERSONALISATION TYPE

V = jacket P = trousers G = waistcoat M = coat These can be combined. EXAMPLE:

VP = 2-piece suit VPG = 3-piece suit (with waistcoat) VPP = 2-piece suit with additional trousers

ARTICLE NUMBER

Please check on our website as to whether the selected outer fabric is available: www.scabal.com / Professional / Business Fabrics Catalogue.

JACKET MODEL / TYPE

Here you fill in the model en type of jacket you want to order. The model you order has to be the same as the model you used for fitting. See part 2: products

LINING

Please enter the number of the lining you have selected in this field (see button and lining card). If you do not specify a lining at this point, you will receive the lining colour provided in our model design (tone in tone).

BUTTONS

Please enter the buttonnumber you have selected in this field (see button and lining card). If you do not specifiy the buttonnumber at this point, you will receive the buttons colour provided in our model design (tone in tone).

LABEL

Entry here is necessary only if the labels differ from those kept in your customor record I = Made by You label K = Customer label S = Farbic label 0 = Without labels

MODEL TROUSERS

Here you fill in the model of trousers you want to order. The model you order has to be the same as the model you used for fitting. See part 2: products

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MODEL WASITCOAT

Here you fill in the model of trousers you want to order (see modelbook).

MEASUREMENTS

Here you fill in the wanted measurements of jacket (V), trousers (P) and waiscoat (G) you want to order.

OPTIONS

The individual feature variations are specified here. You can find a list of possibilities in the model book and in the price list EMBROIDERY ON LINING AND/OR UNDERCOLLAR

Here you have the possibility of clearly entering an embroidered name or text. Please note the desired ‚embroidery options’ here and enter any colour information and the corresponding text. If you don’t note the colour, the text will be embroidered tone in tone with the background EXAMPLE :

F39(161) = F.S. F322(161) = Carpe Diem

CATALOGUE PRICE / FINAL PRICE

These fields are for internal use. Please don’t fill them in.

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Body Measurements

Chest measurement Waist measurement

Seat/Hip measurement

These begin with the determination of the most important body measurements which are a guide for the selection of the correct base size. Beyond this, you can verify on a later order, based on the body measurements, whether a customer’s figure has changed. Take the body measurements over the shirt and trousers. The feet of the customer should be set close together, and he should look ahead and be relaxed. These measurements are mandatory for all orders not sent by B2B.

CHEST MEASUREMENT

The tape measure should be laid horizontally against the shoulder blades and led forward under the armpits. The measurement should be taken, not too tightly, around the broadest part of the chest in a relaxed position. The chest measurement is the most important criteria in the determination of the base size of the jacket and waistcoat.

WAIST MEASUREMENT

The tape measure should be laid horizontally and not too tightly around the stomach at waist length. Here, as well, the broadest position should be measured. (Do not draw in the stomach!)

SEAT /HIP MEASUREMENT

The tape measure should be laid at waist length, not too tightly, around the most pronounced area of the hips. Pockets should be empty and feet should be set close together during the measurement. The hip measurement is the most important criteria in the determination of the base size of the trousers.

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DETERMINING THE BASE SIZE

Theoretically, the measured chest size divided by two (*) should give the correct jacket width for your customers. In practice, the request for a closer-fitting jacket often appears, therefore a try-on garment in the next smaller size could be the better choice. Length also plays a role in determining the base size. (*) Chest measurement divided by two for drop and normal sizes, divided by four for short sizes and undivided for long sizes. EXAMPLE 1:

A chest measurement of 104 cm corresponds to a size 52R, if the customer is of average length (nevertheless, as size 50R, as described, could be a better choice for the customer). EXAMPLE 2 :

A chest measurement of 104 cm corresponds to a size 26, if the customer is shorter than average and has a rounder stout. EXAMPLE 3 :

A chest measurement of 104 cm corresponds to a size 102, if the customer is taller than average and has an athletic build.The trousers size is determined by comparing the hip measurement with the measure table. The garment in the size determined by the measure table should be tried on. If no optimal result can be obtained here, adjacent sizes should be tried on. In practice you can also determine try-on size and model without taking measurements, only on the basis of your own experience. Of course, the style and the feelgood factor of the customer cannot be compromised. See also ‚Measurement system’ at the end

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JACKET TRY-ON GARMENTS

A suit in the current model made from standard material (100% wool) will work well as a try-on garment. Quality fabrics such as mohair, linen, silk or cotton are rather stiff, they do not fall fluently on the body and therefore make it difficult to assess a good fit. We recommend using these fabrics for a try-on suit only if you wish to order a suit in exactly the same material.

TIPS NON-ELASTIC, SOLID MATERIAL

There are outer fabrics that by nature are not very elastic, for example cotton or some mohair and linen types. With a jacket made from these materials, you do not have the same comfort as with a wool jacket. To compensate, we tailor the cuts with rather stiff, inflexible material. This adjustment includes a slight enhancement of shoulder width, armhole diameter, waist and hip size. (Made by You + Ready to Wear).

You will see the options SB1 ( jacket) and HB1 (trousers) printe on the TKZ label in the right inner pocket. BASE AND SIZE

It is important that you select the base (base model) and size of the try-on jacket so that it provides the best possible fit in the shoulder and chest areas. All other dimensions can be more easily altered. With the trousers, decide on a size that best fits in the hips. (to determine the base sizes please see also ‘Measurements’) THERE ARE EXCEPTIONS:

• The jacket fits well on the shoulders, but is too narrow on the chest. In this case it would make sense to select a try-on suit that is one size larger. If necessary, the shoulder width can be reduced. • For example, your customer has a size 54 shoulder width, but a size 58 chest and seat. In this case it would make sense to select a size 56 try-on suit. The shoulder width can be reduced and the jacket width increased by ½. The abdomen size is also worth considering. Once you have decided with which base model and which size you will start the measurements, note this information in the ‘Jacket Base’ and ‘Size’ fields. You will find this information in the jacket on the“ TKZ „ label in the right inner pocket.

BALANCE

Before you begin the measurements, you should make sure that the jacket is in balance. If necessary, you should bring it into balance. It is very important that the jacket remains in balance throughout the entire measurement. (exception: sleeve length and shoulderwidth) To check that it is so, set the collar of the jacket in the neck into the correct position. Then check that in profile, the jacket should have the same length in front and back. THERE ARE THREE POSSIBILITIES:

• The jacket has the same length in front and back: The jacket is in balance. • The jacket is longer in back than it is in the front: Your customer has erect posture and with it too much back length. The jacket must be brought back into balance. • The jacket is shorter in back than it is in the front: Your customer has bent posture or a round back and with it, not enough back length. The jacket must be brought back into balance.

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To bring the jacket into balance in the case of erect posture, you should pin up the excess back length. In the case of bent posture or a round back, push the jacket to the back to thus make up the missing back length (detailed description is provided with the corresponding body postures). All remaining measurements are made on a jacket in balance! (Exception: sleeve lengths and shoulder width). This means that the pins with which the excess back length was pinned up should only be removed once the measurements are completed. In the case of bent posture or a round back, take the measurements while the jacket is pushed back (in balance).

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS

We give you 3 possibilities to declare changes on finished measurements: •

You register the desired finished measurements EXAMPLE : You register ‚½ Jacket 1R = 55cm’ (1 row buttons)

You register which change has to be done on which position. EXAMPLE : You register ‚½ Overlap V8’ +1cm

You register the finished measurements and the corresponding measurement changes (= preferred variant) EXAMPLE : You register ‚½ Jacket 1R = 55cm and ‚½ Overlap V8’ +1cm

If the demanded changes don’t match with the registered finished measurements, we will only take into account the finished measurement. The registered changes are than the base for further analysis. This base principle applies on all finished measurements you register. If you don’t register in the provided boxes, we presume that you don’t need any changes and therefore want the standard measurement. Before you determine the finished measurement, the jacket has to be completely in balance (except sleevelength and shoulder width)

13


Balance - Erect Posture V10-

The collar of the jacket in the neck is in the correct position, the jacket in profile is shorter in front as in back and rests on the hips. The backvent (if there) stands open. The front edges fold over one another in the lower parts and the sleeves have folds in backpart.

To bring the jacket into balance, pin the excess material over the shoulderblades horizontally until the hem is on the same length in front and back. Measure the pleatcontent. This is the value for the excess on the backheight. Note the result in the ‘Erect posture V10-’ field. The back length (BL) will be reduced by this value. Please note the change in back length when determining the jacket length. The jacket should remain in this position, therefore in balance, during all the remaining measurements!

With this change the will be reduced (50% of the found value) and the frontlenght will be lenghtened (50% of the found value). Because this correction shouldn’t influence the jacket length, the changed measure in back length has to be added on the bottom in front and backpart (50% of the found value). The button height follows by 75% of the found value. The waist-, pocket- and vent height will also move downwards. The sleeves will be turned automatically and proportionally to the back. ORIENTATION VALUES

Light 1 cm / Medium 2 cm / Strong 3 cm The maximal values are to be found in our B2B system and depend on the chosen model.

Often in combination with: • Prominent chest (V13) • Pleat under collar (V19 -) with larger values Possible in combination with: • Deeper pocket dart (V17) • Open front panel (V24+) • Front length longer (shoulder-neck point) (V43+) • ½ Chest width (armhole) + (V39+)

Rarely in combination with: • ½ Chest width (armhole) - (V39-) • Sleeve to the front (V32+) • Shoulders to the front (V59+) Never in combination with: • Bent posture (V10+) • Round back (V19+) • Close front panel (V24-) • Front length shorter (shoulder-neck point) (V43-)

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TIPS

JACKET IN BALANCE

If the jacket is in balance, the jacket will be the same length in profile at front and back. When the buttons are unfastened, the front edges lay in parallel. It is important to have the jacket in balance, before you proceed with the measurements. All finished measurements are determined on a jacket in balance! Exception: Sleeve length, buttonheight and shoulder width. (See‚Jacket’)

‚ERECT POSTURE’ IN COMBINATION WITH ‚SLOPING’ OR ‚SQUARE SHOULDER(S)’

If the pleat content of the material pinned over the shoulder blades is not the same throughout, you are looking at a combination of erect posture and sloping shoulder(s) or square shoulder(s). EXAMPLE 1 :

The pleat content over the backpart is 3 cm on the left, 2 cm on middle back seam and 4 cm on the right. Therefore the back height is 2 cm too long (from erect posture), additionally there is a sloping shoulder of 1 cm on the left and 2 cm on the right. You note : V10 –2; V11L –1; V11R –2 EXAMPLE 2 :

The pleat content over the backpart is 2 cm on the left, 2 cm on middle back seam and 1 cm on the right. Therefore the back height is 2 cm too long (from erect posture), additionally there is a square shoulder of 1 cm on the right. You note : V10 –2; V11R +1

SLEEVE TO THE BACK

In case of an erect posture, the arm position is often to the back. When you apply ‘Erect posture V10-’, you already automatically obtain a sleeve position that is turned more to the back (proportionally to the value of the erect posture) This means that the sleeves will be turned additional to the back when applying ‚Sleeve to the back V32’, only in the case of an arm position extremely to the back should this issue occur. Please note that when the sleeves are turned to much to the back, the client will percieve this as uncomfortable when bringing his arms to the front.

EXCEEDING MAXIMUM VALUE OF ERECT POSTURE

It is possible, in case of extreme erect posture, that the maximum value of 3cm back height is exceeded. If so, you can increase the front length by opening the front panel (V24+) and / or by adding on the shoulder-neck point (V43+). EXAMPLE :

If the pleatcontent is 5.5cm (back height) you can devide it like this: erect posture 3 cm; open front panel 1.5 cm and increase front length at the shoulder-neck point 1cm You note : V10 -3; V24 +1,5; V43 +1

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Balance - Open front panel V24+

You can use this adjustment when you need more front length on the chest height. You will notice that the front edges don’t run parallell and fold over one another on the hem (buttons are unfastened). In case of an explicit prominent chest you don’t only need more front width (V13), but also more front length to avoid the front panel going up. In case of an explicit erect posture you can restore the balance by, besides taking off from back length (V10-), opening the front panel (V24+), meaning increasing the front length (See tips).

The shortage of front length is a value you estimate.

The front part will be cut on chest height from middle front till armhole and openened by 100% of the found value.

ORIENTATION VALUES

Light 0,5 cm / Medium 1 cm / Strong 1,5 cm The maximal values are to be found in our B2B system and depend on the chosen model.

Often in combination with : • Prominent chest (V13) with larger values • Erect posture (V10-) with larger values • Front length longer (shoulder-neck point) (V43+) with larger values Rarely in combination with : • ½ Chest width (armhole) + (V39+) Never in combination with : • Bent posture (V10+) • Round back (V19+) • Front length shorter (shoulder-neck point) (V43-)

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TIPS EXCEEDING MAXIMUM VALUE OF ERECT POSTURE

It is possible, in case of extreme erect posture, that the maximum value of 3cm back length is exceeded. If so, you can increase the front length by opening the front panel (V24+) and / or by adding on the shoulder-neck point (V43+).

EXAMPLE :

If the pleat content is 5.5cm (back length) you can devide it like this: erect posture 3 cm; open front panel 1.5 cm and increase front length at the shoulder-neck point 1 cm. You note : V10 -3; V24 +1,5; V43 +1

SHORTAGE OF FRONT LENGTH IN CASE OF EXTREME PROMINENT CHEST

As defined/described paragraph ‚Prominent chest V13’, you first determine the extra value of chestwidth needed. If, because of the prominent chest, the front edges don’t run parallell , you estimate the shortage of front length and fill this in the field ‚Open front panel V24+’.

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Balance – Front length longer (shoulder-neck point) V43+

With this adjustment you can make the front length of the jacket longer, and therefore restore the balance. The adjustment of the front length is applied on the shoulder-neck point, this is at the crosspoint of the shoulder seam and neckline. This reflects (will change) on the angle of inclination of the shoulder seam in front part (see tips).

The front length at shoulder-neck point changes / lengthens by 100% of the found value.

ORIENTATION VALUES

Light 0,5 cm / Strong 1 cm The maximal values are to be found in our B2B system and depend on the chosen model

Often in combination with: • Erect posture (V10-) with larger values • Open front panel (V24+) with larger values

Never in combination with: • Bent posture (V10+) • Close front panel (V24-) • Round back (V19+)

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TIPS EXCEEDING MAXIMUM VALUE OF ERECT POSTURE

It is possible, in case of extreme erect posture, that the maximum value of 3cm back length is exceeded. If so, you can increase the front length by opening the front panel (V24+) and / or by adding on the shoulder-neck point (V43+).

EXAMPLE :

If the pleat content is 5.5 cm (back length) you can devide it like this: erect posture 3 cm; open front panel 1.5 cm and increase front length at the shoulder-neck point 1cm You note : V10 -3; V24 +1,5; V43 +1

CONSEQUENCES FOR THE ANGLE OF INCLINATION OF THE SHOULDER LINE

By adding more front length at the shoulder-neck point the shoulder line will become more slanted in the front part. If the customer has sloping shoulders this will improove the fitting. But if the customer has square shoulders this could result in fitting problems at shoulderand neck area on the front part. In this case we advice to give extra front length by using ‚Erect posture V10 +’.

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Balance - Bent posture V10+

When the collar of the jacket is in the correct position in the neck (against the collar of the shirt), the jacket is longer in the front than the back in profile, the hem in the center back stands out and the front edges run apart towards the hem and the sleeves have folds in front part. Before you proceed with the measurements, you should bring the jacket into balance and determine the missing amount for the back length: • Bring the jacket collar to the correct position to the shirt collar and mark this position with a pin on the collar of the shirt. • To bring the jacket into balance, shift the jacket back down until the hem is in a horizontal position. • Measure the difference between the pin and the jacket collar. This value is the missing amount for the back length. Note the result in the ‘Bent posture V10+’. Please note the change of back length when determining the jacket length. The jacket should remain in this position, in balance, for all remaining measurements! With this change the back length will be increased (50% of the found value) and the front length will be shortened (50% of the found value). Because this correction shouldn’t influence the jacket length, the changed measure in back length has to be taken off on the bottom in front and back part (50% of the found value). The button height will follow by 75% of the found value. The waist-, pocket- and vent height will also move upwards. The sleeves will be turned automatically and proportionally to the front. ORIENTATION VALUES

Light 1 cm / Medium 2 cm / Strong 3 cm The maximal values are to be found in our B2B system and depend on the chosen model Often in combination with : • Round back (V19+) (see Tips ) • ½ Collar diameter (CBS -) (V23-) • ½ Chest width (armhole) - (V39-) Possible in combination with: • Close front panel (V24-) • Front length shorter (shoulder-neck point) (V43-)

Rarely in combination with: • Prominent chest (V13) • Sleeve to the back (V32-) • Pleat under collar (V19-) • ½ Chest width (armhole) + (V39+) Never in combination with: • Erect posture (V10-) • Open front panel (V24+) • Front length longer (shoulder-neck point) (V43+) 20


TIPS

JACKET IN BALANCE

When the jacket is in balance, front and back length will be the same in profile. When the buttons are unfastened, the front edges lay in parallel. It is important that the jacket is in balance before you proceed with the measurements. All finished measurements are determined on a jacket in balance! Exception: sleeve length, shoulder width and position of 1st button. (see Jacket)

SLEEVE TO THE FRONT

With a bent posture, the arm position is often to the front. When you apply ‘Bent posture V10+’, you already automatically obtain a sleeve position that is turned more to the front (proportionally to the value of the bent posture). This means that the sleeves will be turned additional to the front when applying ‚Sleeve to the front V32’, only in the case of an arm position extremely to the front should this issue occur.

DIFFERENCE BETWEEN BENT POSTURE AND ROUND BACK

The ‘Bent posture’ figure type leans forward with the entire upper part of the body. The jacket is too short over the entire back. With a ‘Round back’ figure type, the spinal column is sloping at the level of the shoulder blades. The jacket is too short especially in the upper part of the sew center back seam. Pleats build from the middle back to the side seams. There often is a combination of these two postures. In this case you should divide the measured value (the necessary back length) between the ‘Bent posture V10+’ and ‘Round back V19+’ fields, whereby the bent posture normally has the largest part.

EXCEEDING MAXIMUM VALUE OF BENT POSTURE

It is possible, in case of extreme erect posture, that the maximum value of 3 cm back height is exceeded. If so, you can reduce the front length by closing the front panel (V24-) and / or by reducing on the shoulder-neck point (V43-). EXAMPLE :

If the pleat content is 5.5 cm (back length) you can devide it like this: ‚Bent posture V10+’ 3 cm; ‚Close front panel V24-’ 1.5 cm and ‚Front length (shoulder-neck point) shorter V43-’ 1cm. You note : V10 +3 cm; V24 -1,5 cm; V43 –1 cm

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Balance - Close front panel V24You can use this adjustment when you have to much front length on the chest height. You will notice that the front edges don’t run parallell and run apart towards the hem (buttons are unfastened). In case of an explicit flat chest you don’t only need less front width (V39-), but also less front length to put the jacket in balance. In case of an explicit bent posture you can restore the balance by, besides increasing back height (V10+), closing the front panel (V24-), meaning decreasing the front length (See tips).

The excess of front length has to be pinned away in middle front at chestheigth at nothing to armhole. You note the complete depth of the fold.

The frontpart will be cut on chest height from middle front till armhole and closed by 100% of the found value.

ORIENTATION VALUES

Light 0,5 cm / Medium 1 cm / Strong 1,5 cm The maximal values are to be found in our B2B system and depend on the chosen model.

Often in combination with : • Bent posture (V10+) with larger values • Front length shorter (shoulderneckpoint) (V43-) with larger values • ½ Chestwidth (armhole) (V39-) Rarely in combination with : • Prominent chest (V13) Never in combination with : • Erect posture (V10-) • Front length longer (shoulder-neck point) (V43+)

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TIPS EXCEEDING MAXIMUM VALUE OF BENT POSTURE

It is possible, in case of extreme bent posture, that the maximum value of 3cm back length is exceeded. If so, you can shorten the front length by closing the front panel (V24-) and / or by taking off on the shoulder- neck point (V43-). EXAMPLE :

If the plea tcontent is 5.5 cm (back length) you can devide it like this: bent posture 3cm; close front parnel 1.5 cm and shorten front length at the shoulder-neck point 1cm. You note : V10 +3; V24 -1,5; V43 -1

EXCESS OF FRONT LENGTH IN CASE OF EXTREME FLAT CHEST

As defined/described in paragraph ‚½ Chest width (armhole) V39-’, you first determine the excess value on ½ chest width. If, because of the flat chest, the front edges don’t run parallell , you pin away the excess of front length at chest height. The depth of the fold is the amount to close front panel (V24-).

SQUARE SHOULDER(S) AND FRONT LENGTH

In case of square shoulder(s) it can occur that the front edges don’t run parallell and run apart towards the hem. The problem here is not the excess of front length (in front) on shoulder-neck point, but rather a shortage of length at the shouler-arm point area (front and back part). Therefore is the decrease of front length not the correct solution; we advice you to use ‚Square shoulder(s) V11+’

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Balance – Front length shorter (shoulder-neck point) V43With this adjustment you can make the front length of the jacket shorter, and therefore restore the balance. The adjustment of the front length is applied on the shoulder-neck point, this is at the crosspoint of the shoulder seam and neckline. This adjustment will change the angle of inclination of the shoulder seam in frontpart (see tips).

The front length at shoulder-neck point changes / shortens by 100% of the found value.

ORIENTATION VALUES

Light 0,5 cm / Strong 1 cm The maximal values are to be found in our B2B system and depend on the chosen model.

Often in combination with: • Bent posture (V10+) with larger values • Close front panel (V24-) with larger values

Never in combination with : • Erect posture (V10-) • Open front panel (V24+) • Shoulders to the front (V59+)

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TIPS EXCEEDING MAXIMUM VALUE OF BENT POSTURE

It is possible, in case of extreme bent posture, that the maximum value of 3cm back length is exceeded. If so, you can shorten the front length by closing the front panel (V24+) and / or by taking off on the shoulder-neck point (V43-).

EXAMPLE :

If the pleat content is 5.5 cm (back length) you can devide it like this: bent posture 3 cm; close front panel 1.5 cm and shorten front length at the shoulder-neck point 1cm. You note : V10 +3; V24 -1,5; V43 -1

CONSEQUENCES FOR THE ANGLE OF INCLINATION OF THE SHOULDER LINE

By taking off front length at the shoulder-neck point the shoulder line will become straighter in the frontpart. If the customer has ‚Square shoulder(s)’ this will improove the fitting. But if the customer has ‚Sloping shoulder(s)’ this could result in fittingproblems on frontpart at shoulder- and neck area. In this case we advice to take off extra front length by using ‚Bent posture V10 -’.

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Balance - Pleat under collar V19-

Horizontal pleats build below the collar. The course of the centre back seam over the arch of the back is too long or the neck is short. In contrast to ‚Square shoulder(s)’ and ‚Shoulders to the front’, is the pleat under the collar visible only on the back. This cross pleat is not be confused with ‚Shoulders to the front’ or ‚Square shoulder(s)’.

Pin the pleat horizontally below the collar. The pleat content gives the value (in cm) for the ‚Pleat under collar’. Please note the alteration of the back length when determining the jacket length. The back part is cut horizontally at back height from CBS till armhole and then closed by 100% of the found value. Because this correction shouldn’t influence the jacket length, the changed measure in back length has to be added on the bottom in front and back part (100% of the found value). The waist-, pocket- button and vent height will follow by 50% of the found value.

ORIENTATION VALUES

Light 0,5 cm / Medium 1 cm / Strong 2 cm The maximal values are to be found in our B2B system and depend on the chosen model.

Often in combination with: • Erect posture (V10-) • Square shoulder(s) (V11+) with larger values Rarely in combination with: • Bent posture (V10+) • Sloping shoulder(s) (V11-) Never in combination with: • Round back (V19+)

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TIPS

DIFFERENCE BETWEEN ‚SQUARE SHOULDER(S)’, ‚PLEAT UNDER COLLAR’ AND ‚SHOULDERS TO THE FRONT’

There is always a cross pleat below the collar, however: • ‚Pleat under collar V19-‚: this cross pleat is visible only on the back. The front edges run parallel to the hem. • In the case of ‚Square shoulder(s) V11’: this cross pleat is also visible on the front section. The front edges run apart towards the hem. • In the case of ‚Shoulders to the front V59+’: this cross pleat is also visible on the front section. If the shoulders are extremely to the front, the front edges run apart towards the hem. The customer has the impression that the jacket presses on the front against the shoulders.

WITH LARGE VALUES IT IS SENSIBLE TO DISTRIBUTE THE VALUES BETWEEN ‚SQUARE SHOULDER(S)’ AND ‚PLEAT UNDER COLLAR’

EXAMPLE With a pleat under collar of 3 cm: ‚Square shoulder(s)’ 2 cm and ‚Pleat under collar' 1 cm You note: V11 +2 cm; V19 –1 cm

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Balance - Round back V19+

The collar of the jacket is in the correct position in the neck, the jacket in profile is in front longer than in the back. Pleats run from the center back to the side seams, the hem on the back stands out from the body in the middle. The collar has the tendency to stand out from the neck. In the case of larger values the front parts tend to run apart to the hem (they will be pulled to the back since the back seam stands out from the body). Before you proceed with the measurements, you should bring the jacket into balance and determine the missing amount for the back length : • Bring the jacket collar into the correct position to the shirt collar and mark this position with a pin on the collar of the shirt. • To bring the jacket into balance, shift the jacket back down, until the hem is in a horizontal position. • Measure the difference between the pin and the jacket collar. This value is the missing amount for the back length. Note the result in the field ‘Round back V19+’. Please note the change of back length when determining the jacket length. The jacket should remain in this position, in balance, for all remaining measurements! The back part is cut horizontally at back height from CBS till armhole and then opened by 100% of the found value.

Because this correction shouldn’t influence the jacket length, the changed measure in backlength has to be taken off on the bottom in front and back part (100% of the found value). The waist-, pocket- button and vent height will follow (upwards) by 50% of the found value. ORIENTATION VALUES

Light 0.5 cm / Medium 1 cm / Strong 2 cm The maximal values are to be found in our B2B system and depend on the chosen model Often in combination with: • Bent posture (V10+) (see tip) • ½ Collar diameter (CBS) - (V23-) • ½ Chest width (armhole) - (V39-) • Sloping shoulder(s) (V11-) • Shoulders to the front (V59+) • ½ Back width + (V26+) and/or (V3+)

Rarely in combination with: • Prominent chest (V13) • Square shoulder(s) (V11+) • Sleeve to the back (V32) • ½ Chest width (armhole) + (V39+) Never in combination with : • Erect posture (V10-) • Pleat under collar (V19-) • Open front panel (V24+) • Front length longer (shoulder-neck point) (V43+) 28


TIPS JACKET IN BALANCE

When the jacket is in balance, front and back length will be the same in profile. When the buttons are unfastened, the front edges lay in parallel. It is important that the jacket is in balance, before you proceed with the measurements. All finished measurements are determined on a jacket in balance! Exception: sleeve length, shoulder width and position of 1st button. (see Jacket)

COMBINATION OF ‚ROUND BACK’ AND ‚SLOPING SHOULDER(S)’

Please differentiate between pleats that are caused by a round back from those that are a result of sloping shoulders. Bring the jacket into balance and then determine, if necessary, sloping shoulders.

DIFFERENCE BETWEEN ‚BENT POSTURE’ AND ‚ROUND BACK’

The ‘Bent posture’ figure type leans forward with the entire upper part of the body. The jacket is too short over the entire back. With a ‘Round back’ figure type, the spinal column is sloping at the level of the shoulder blades. The jacket is too short especially in the upper part of the center back seam. Pleats build from the middle back to the side seams. There often is a combination of these two postures. In this case you should divide the measured value (the necessary back length) between ‘Bent posture V10+’ and ‘Round back V19+’ fields, where the bent posture normally receives the largest part.

DIFFERENTIATING BETWEEN ‚ROUND BACK’ AND ‚TOO-LARGE COLLAR DIAMETER’

When dealing with a protruding collar diameter, please first exclude the case of a round back or an S-figure. In the case of a round back, the back length is too short, the back «pulls» the jacket in the back away from the neck. In case of a slim neck, gaps appears sideways between the collar of the jacket and the collar of the shirt. A combination of both is obviously also possible. If the customer has a round back and the jacket a ‚too-large collar diameter’, you better reduce the collar diameter in center back ‚½ Collar diameter (CBS) V23-’ (maximum of 0.5 cm is possible) together with the adjustment(s) for ‚Round back V19+’ and possibly ‚Bent Figure V10+’.

S-FIGURE If, in addition to a round back, the abdomen and hips are slid or forward, we consider this as an ‚S-figure’. In this case you determine the value of ‚Round back V19+’ and you move the width on waist and hipheight to the front. We advice you to adapt the jacket with the following codes: V19+, V8+, V28+, V48+, V25and V39-

FABRIC SELECTION With the ‘Round back’ figure type, fabrics with large diamond designs or striking stripes should be avoided.

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Balance – Deeper pocket dart (stout and/ or very stout) V17-

This figure type is hefty with a more uniform allocation of the abundance. The focal point lays nevertheless in the front section. The jacket is for the most part out of balance, it is shorter in front than in back.

Provide the ‘Stout’ figure per your assessment with 0.5cm (for medium) and 1cm (for strong). You will obtain a deeper pocket dart, more front length at the hem and the dimensions will be somewhat reduced in the hem and hip area. With it, the front section takes on the form of the abdomen better. Additional ½ jacket width will be evenly distributed.

The pocket dart will become deeper by 100% of the found value. The hem width on the front part will be reduced with the same value and the front length at hem is lengthened by the same value.

ORIENTATION VALUES

Medium 0.5 cm / Strong 1 cm The maximal values are to be found in our B2B system and depend on the chosen model. Often in combination with: • Erect posture (V10-) • ½ Overlap + (V8+) • ½ Waist (FP – underarm seam) + (V48+) Possible in combination with: • Open front panel (V24+) • ½ Seat (SP - underarm seam) - (V27-) • Front form rounder (V31 -) Rarely in combination with: • ½ Overlap - (V8-) Never in combination with: • ½ Waist (FP – underarm seam) - (V48-)

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TIPS DIFFERENCE BETWEEN STOUT AND VERY STOUT

With a very stout person the stomach is distinctly pronounced forward at waist level, while in the case of a stout figure the abundance is rather evenly distributed in the waist and hip areas. For this reason the reduction of hip size is heavier with a very stout, additional ½ jacket width will be distributed forward as far as possible. With a stout figure this will be evenly distributed. To even out the balance, both figure types receive more front length at the hem and better adjustment of the form of the front sections through a deeper pocket dart. For a stout person you divide the extra width even and all around with: ‚½ Overlap V8+’; ‘Deeper pocket dart V17’; ‚½ Waist (FP- underarm seam) V48 +’; ‚½ Waist (BP – side seams) V6 +’. Here you seldom have an undulating effect under the stomach EXAMPLE STOUT PERSON

Your customer has a stout figure. He needs an additional 1.5cm extra width on the waist. You note: ‚Deeper pocket dart V17’ +1cm, ‚½ Overlap V8’ +0.5, ‚½ Waist (FP- underarm seam) V48’ +0.5, and ‚½ Waist (BP – side seams) V6’ +0.5cm.

For a very stout person it is best to add the extra width specifically on the front part with ‘½ Overlap V8+’. In case of a distinct undulating effect under the stomach; you can correct the width on hem of the side part by using ‘½ Seat (SP - underarm seam) V27-‘ EXAMPLE VERY STOUT PERSON

Your customer has a very stout figure and a undulating effect under the stomach. He needs an additional 1.5cm extra width on the waist. You note: ‚Deeper pocket dart V17’ +1cm, ‚½ Overlap V8’ +1, ‚½ Waist (FP- underarm seam) V48’ +0.5, ‚½ Seat (SP - underarm seam) V27’ -1cm.

VERY STOUT

For these clients we advice a jacket with lower closure, for example a 2-buttons closure (tye 12xx). Jackets with a higher closure, like the 3-buttons closure (type 13xx) or a double breasted closure (type 2xxx), are not adviced, since the vertical edges of front part above the stomach will collapse (cave in).

SIZE OF THE TROUSERS

In the case of a very stout figure, the size of the trousers is often 1 size smaller than the size of the jacket.

STOUT SIZES

If the customer has a heavy stout figure, it would make sense to apply a stout size, recognizable by odd numbered sizes ( ex. 47, 49…). These stout sizes are cut more fitted on the shoulder and chest but are larger on the stomach. A normal or short size is insufficient in this case; if the size corresponds to the chest size, the maximum value to increase the ½ waist is exceeded. If we start out with a size that corresponds the stomach size, the shoulders and chest are too big, and these can’t be as much adapted. Therefore we always emphasize to choose the size of your jacket based on the size of the contour chest; but always keeping in mind the rest of the body. Please refer yourself to the measurment table.

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Chest width - Prominent chest V13

If the jacket is buttoned, the lapel stands out in the chest area, since the chest width is too small. With a very prominent chest, the front length can also be too short.

Using a tape measure, build a line that traces the correct bridle course. The difference that you measure between this line and the actual bridle, at breast pocket level, gives the value (in cm) for the ‘Prominent chest’. The chest width in front part will be enlarged by this amount. Apart from this extra width, the chest dart will also become deeper, this will create more volume on the chest.

The width (100% of the found value) will be added on the vertical edge in middle front. The chest dart will be made deeper with the same value; waist- and seat width remain unchanged.

ORIENTATION VALUES

Light 0.5 cm / Medium 1 cm / Strong 1.5 cm The maximal values are to be found in our B2B system and depend on the chosen model.

Often in combination with: • Erect posture (V10-) Possible in combination with: • Open front panel (V24+) with larger values • ½ Chest width (armhole) + (V39+) • ½ Backwidth (CBS) - (V26-) • Armhole diameter + (V15+) • Shoulder width (shoulder-arm point) + (V9+)

Rarely in combination with: • Round back (V19+) • Bent posture (V10+) • Shoulder width (shoulder-arm point) - (V9-) • ½ Overlap - (V8-) • ½ Chest width (armhole) - (V39-) • Close front panel (V24-)

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TIPS

EXCEEDING MAXIMUM VALUE OF ‚PROMINENT CHEST’

It is possible, in case of extreme prominent chest, that the maximum value of 1.5cm prominent chest is exceeded. If so, you can add extra chest width by using additional to prominent chest the alteration ‚½ Chest width (armhole) V39+’. Make sure to check the armhole diameter V15 and make it wider if necessary. When the found value is very high, we advice you to take 1 size larger. Shoulder width can more easely be adapted if necessary. It is very likely that the front part also goes up in middle front, this due to prominent chest. Than you assess the missing front length, and note this in the field ‚Open front panel V24+’. EXAMPLE

You measure 2cm between the actual bridle and the correct bridle and you assess a missing front length of 0.75cm (so the vertical frontedges run parallel). You divide this chest width like this: ‚Prominent chest’ 1.5cm and ‚½ Chest width (armhole)’ 0.5cm, but also ‚Open front panel’ 0.75cm. You note: V13 +1.5; V39 +0.5; V24 +0.75 S70

When selecting the S70 option, you additionally obtain a dart under the lapel (dart content: 2 cm in total). In doing so, the front section takes on the form of the ‚Prominent chest’, it gives more volume. Attention: this is separate from the alteration V13 and provides more volume on the chest

‚½ OVERLAP’ AND ‚PROMINENT CHEST’

The alteration ‚½ Overlap’ as well as ‚Prominent chest’ affect the chest dimension on the front edges. EXAMPLE:

If ‚½ Overlap’ is reduced by 1cm (= V8 –1) and ‚Prominent chest’ is simultaneously given 1cm (= V13 +1) the alteration of the chest width is completely reversed. Only the enhanced chest dart gives the front section extra form.

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Chest width - ½ Chest width (armhole) V39

This adjustment will be used when the front part at chest width is to large in case of a flat chest (look picture), or when the front partt is to small. In case of a flat chest the jacket collapses at chest height, due to too much chest width. The front parts overlap at the first button, especially in case of a 3 buttons jacket. The front length can also be to long. It is possible that, in case of a extreme prominent chest, the necessary chest width achieved with ‚Prominent chest V13’ is not sufficient. Than extra chest width can be added at the armhole. The excess of chest width has to be pinned away (vertically) between the armhole and middle front edge at chest heigth. You note the complete depth of the fold in the field ‚½ Chest width (armhole) V39’. See Tips for a 3 buttons jacket. The shortage of chest width is a value you estimate.

The front part at chest height will be made wider or smaller at the armhole (by 100% of the found value). Picture shows reducement of chest width.

ORIENTATION VALUES

Medium 0.5 cm / Strong 1 cm The maximal values are to be found in our B2B system and depend on the chosen model. Enlarge often in combination with: • Prominent chest (V13) with larger values • Erect posture (V10-)

Reduction ofen in combination with : • Round back (V19+) • Bent figure (V10+)

Enlarge possible in combination with: • ½ Back width (CBS) - (V26-) • Shoulder width (shoulder-arm point) + (V9+) • Open front panel (V24+)

Reduction possible in combination with: • Close front panel (V24-)

Enlarge never in combination with: •TIPS Round back (V19+) • Bent figure (V10+) • Shoulder width (shoulder-arm point) - (V9-)

Reduction never in combination with: • Erect posture (V10-) • ½ Overlap + (V8+) • Prominent chest (V13) • Shoulder width (shoulder-arm point) + (V9+)

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DETERMINATION OF THE VALUE OF ‚FLAT CHEST’ FOR 3 BUTTONS JACKET

You determine the excess of chest width by measuring the overlap of the front parts at the level of the highest button. The left front part of the jacket has to be put on top of the right front part at chest level till the fitting on chest is perfect. You now put a pin in the right front part, through the eye of the buttonhole, marking the overlap. Measure the distance between the pin and the middle of the highest button. This value divided in 2 (in cm) gives the value for ‚½ Chest width (armhole) V39-’. Make sure you’re dealing with a flat chest and not with a front part that is too wide over the full width. Keep in consideration the adjustments to be made on ‚½ Overlap’ (see next tip).

‚½ OVERLAP’ AND ‚FLAT CHEST’ Both ‚½ Overlap’ as flat chest (V39-) have an influence on the chest width. EXAMPLE :

If you simultaneously ask ‚½ Overlap V8’ +0.5 cm and ‚½ Chest width (armhole) V39’ -0.5 cm, than both adjustments mostly cancel each other.

STRONG DECREASE OF ‚CHEST WIDTH’

If you measure a high value for flat chest (V39-) and you also need to make armhole diameter smaller, we advice you to try a size smaller. The shoulder width can more easily be adapted, if necessary.

EXCEEDING MAXIMUM VALUE OF ‚PROMINENT CHEST’

It is possible, in case of extreme prominent chest, that the maximum value of 1.5 cm prominent chest is exceeded. If so, you can add extra chest width by using additional to prominent chest the adjustement ‚½ Chest width (armhole) V39+’. Make sure to check the armhole diameter V15 and make it wider if necessary. When the found value is very high, we advice you to take 1 size larger. Shoulder width can more easily be adapted, if necessary. It is very likely that the front part also goes up in middle front, this due to prominent chest. Than you assess the missing front length, and note this in the field ‚Open front panel V24+’. EXAMPLE

You measure 2cm between the actual bridle and the correct bridle and you assess a missing front length of 0.75 cm (so the vertical front edges run parallel). You divide this chest width like this: ‚Prominent chest’ 1.5 cm and ‚½ Chest width (armhole)’ 0.5 cm, but also ‚Open front panel’ 0.75 cm. You note: V13 +1.5; V39 +0.5; V24 +0.75

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Chest width – Introduction ½ Back width You can decide where ½ Back width should be adapted. You have 2 possibilities:

½ Back width V3

½ Back width (CBS) V26

When changing the ½ Back width, don’t forget to fill in ‚Finished Measurement ½ Back width’. You need to take into account all the adjustments that have an influence on ½ Back width. EXAMPLE:

The trial jacket has a ½ back width of 23.2 cm. You want to add 0.5 cm extra ½ back width V3. The new ½ back width becomes : 23.2 cm + 0.5 cm = 23.7 cm If you note a finished measurement for ½ back width, we will respect this finished measurement. If this finished measurement doesn’t correspond to the demanded adjustment(s) we will use the given adjustment as a guideline for the division of ½ back width, but always by respecting the demanded finished measurement. This is the basic rule for all demanded finished measurements. If you don’t give a value for ‚½ Back width V3’, ‚½ Back width (CBS) V26’ or ‚Finished Measurement ½ Back width’, you will receive the standard finished measurement for ½ back width of the stated jacket size.

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Chest width - ½ Back width V3

MAKE ½ BACK WIDTH LARGER

MAKE ½ BACK WIDTH SMALLER

The back tightens in the area of the ½ back width. Cross pleats form at the level of the shoulderblades. The customer feels that his freedom of movement is restricted.

Length-wise pleats form. The back is not fitted to the body in the area of the ½ back width.

The shortage of back width is a value you estimate.

The excess of fabric on the armhole has to be pinned away (vertically). You note the complete depth of the fold in the field ‚½ Back width V3’.

The back part at back width will be made wider or smaller by 100% of the found value. Picture shows reducement of back width.

ORIENTATION VALUES

Light 0.3cm / Medium 0.8 cm / Strong 1.2 cm The maximal values are to be found in our B2B system and depend on the chosen model. Increase often in combination with: • Round back (V19+)

Reduction often in combination with: • Erect posture (V10-)

Increase possible in combination with: • ½ Back width (CBS) + (V26+)

Reduction possible in combination with: • ½ Back width (CBS) - (V26-)

Increase never in combination with: • Shoulder width (Shoulder-arm point) - (V9-)

Reduction never in combination with: • Shoulder width (Shoulder-arm point) + (V9+)

To ensure a smooth line flow, and therefore a good fitting, it is logical to adapt the shoulder width (V9) in the same direction as the back width (V3).

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Chest width - ½ Back width (CBS) V26

MAKE ½ BACK WIDTH IN CBS LARGER

MAKE ½ BACK WIDTH IN CBS SMALLER

The back is too small at back width height in CBS, since the client has a more developed or even a ‚prominent’ back width.

The back is too large at back width height in CBS, since the client has a less developed or even a ‚hollow’ back width.

The shortage of back width is a value you estimate.

The excess of fabric on the center back has to be pinned away (vertically on both sides of CBS). You note halve a depth of the fold in the field ‚½ Back width (CBS)V26-’.

The back part at back width will be made wider or smaller on CBS (center back seam) by 100% of the found value. Picture shows reducement of back width on CBS.

ORIENTATION VALUES

Light 0,3 cm / Strong 0,5 cm The maximal values are to be found in our B2B system and depend on the chosen model.

Increase often in combination with : • Round back (V19+)

Reduction often in combination with : • Erect figure (V10-)

Increase possible in combination with: • ½ Back width + (V3+) • Shoulder width (Shoulder-arm point) - (V9-)

Reduction possible in combination with : • ½ Back width - (V3-) • Shoulder width (Shoulder-arm point) + (V9+)

Increase never in combination with: • ½ Waist & ½ Seat (CBS) - (V25-)

Reduction never in combination with : • ½ Waist & ½ Seat (CBS)+ (V25+)

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TIPS

POSSIBILITIES TO ADJUST ON THE CENTER BACK SEAM (CBS)

In need of adjustment on CBS, you have the following possibilities: • ½ Waist and ½ seat (½Waist & ½ Seat (CBS) V25) • ½ Back width (½ Back width (CBS) V26) • Reduction ½ Collar diameter (½ Collar diameter (CBS) V23-) • Complete center back seam (½Waist & ½ Seat (CBS Collar - hem) V36)

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Chest width – Finished Measurement ½ Back width

MEASURE GUIDE LINE FOR FINISHED MEASUREMENT ½ BACK WIDTH

Measure horizontally from center back seam till the place where the elbow seam touches the armhole.

Also read ‚Introduction ½ Back width’. You will find there a summary of all adjustments that will influence the finished measurement ½ Back width.

If changing ½ Back width, please always note the finished measurement for ½ back width. Always keep in mind all adjustments that influence ½ back width. If you note a finished measurement for ½ back width, we will respect this finished measurement. If this finished measurement doesn’t correspond to the demanded adjustment(s) we will use the given adjustment(s) as a guideline for the division of ½ back width, but always by respecting the demanded finished measurement. This is the basic rule for all demanded finished measurements.

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Shoulders – Introduction shoulder width b a

There are two modifications which have an influence on the shoulder width: • Shoulder width (Shoulder-arm point) (V9) (a) • ½ Collar diameter (Shoulder-neck point) (V41) (b)

(a) Shoulder width (Shoulder-arm point) (V9)

(b) ½ Collar diameter (Shoulder-neck point) (V41)

If you don’t give a value for 'Finished Measurement Shoulder width’, ‚Shoulder width (shoulder-arm point) V9’ or ‚½ Collar diameter (shoulder-neck point) V41’, you will receive the standard finished measurement for shoulder width of the stated jacket size. If you want to make shoulder width smaller or wider, you fill in ‚Finished Measurements Shoulder width’ or use the fields ‚Shoulder width (shoulder-arm point) V9’ and / or ‚½ Collar diameter (shoulder-neck point) V41’ EXAMPLE:

The trial jacket has a shoulder width of 15 cm. You want to add 0.3 cm extra on ‚Shoulder width (shoulderarm point) V9’ and reduce ‚½ Collar diameter (shoulder-neck point) V41’ by 0.5 cm. You fill in both fields, and perhaps even calculate and fill in the field of finished measurement shoulder width . The new shoulder width becomes : 15 cm + 0.3 cm + 0.5 cm = 15.8 cm If you note a finished measurement for shoulder width, we will respect this finished measurement. If this finished measurement doesn’t correspond to the demanded adjustment(s) we will correct the adjustment ‚Shoulder width (shoulder-arm point) V9’ so your demanded finished measurement for shoulder width is reached. The jacket doesn’t have to be in balance when establishing the shoulder width, but has to be put in the correct position on the shoulders.

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Shoulders – Shoulder width (shoulder-arm point) V9

MAKE SHOULDER WIDTH LARGER

MAKE SHOULDER WIDTH SMALLER

The customer feels uncomfortable in the shoulder area, the end of the shoulderline doesn’t match the actual shoulder point of the client, possibly the upper arm muscles stand out. Tension pleats can build beneath the collar.

The jacket shoulders tip. If the shoulder width is extremely wide with regard to the actual shoulder point of the client, pleats similar to those with ‘sloping shoulders’ can occur.

The shoulder width at shoulder-arm point will be made wider or smaller (by 100% of the found value). Picture shows reducement of shoulder width.

ORIENTATION VALUES

Light 0.3 cm / Medium 0.6 cm / Strong 1 cm The maximal values are to be found in our B2B system and depend on the chosen model.

Increase is often in combination with: • ½ Back width + (V3+) • Prominent chest (V13)

Reduction is often in combination with: • ½ Back width - (V3-)

Increase possible in combination with: • ½ Back width (CBS) - (V26-)

Reduction possible in combination with: • ½ Back width (CBS) + (V26+) • ½ Chest width (Armhole) - (V39-)

Increase rarely in combination with: • ½ Chest width (Armhole) - (V39-)

Reduction rarely in combination with: • ½ Chest width (Armhole) + (V39+)

Increase never in combination with: • ½ Back width - (V3-)

Reduction never in combination with: • ½ Back width + (V3+) • Prominent chest (V13)

It is sensible and logical to alter the ½ back width (V3) in the same direction as the shoulder width (V9) (increase if shoulder width larger; reduce if shoulder width smaller). As soon as the shoulder width (V9) is altered by more than 0.5 cm, the ½ back width (V3) should also be taken on. In this manner, a good line management can be obtained. With an alteration of shoulder width (V9) by 1 cm, the ½ back width (V3) must be altered by at least 0.5 cm in the same direction.

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SHOULDER WIDTH (SHOULDER-ARM POINT)

If the customer has very pronounced upper arm muscles and rather narrow shoulders, a compromise should be found. In order not to have the upper arm muscles stand out too much, the shoulder width must be larger than needed for the shoulders.

CALCULATION OF ‘SHOULDER WIDTH’ WITH ALTERATION ON THE SHOULDER-ARM POINT

Please note the amount by which you have increased or reduced the shoulder width at shoulder-arm point when you provide the shoulder width finished measurements. EXAMPLE :

The try-on garment has a shoulder width of 15 cm. You would like the shoulder width to be 0.3 cm more. The new shoulder width thus comes out to: 15 cm + 0.3 cm = 15.3 cm

CALCULATION OF ‚SHOULDER WIDTH’ WITH THE ALTERATION ON ½ COLLAR DIAMETER

Please note the alteration of ‚½ Collar diameter’ when determining ‚Finished Measurement Shoulder width’. If the collar needs to be closer on the neck, the finished measurement shoulder width should be given a larger value. If the collar diameter needs to be increased, the finished measurement shoulder width should be reduced. With this method, the shoulder-arm point (V9) remains unchanged. If you don’t give the ‚Finished Measurement Shoulder width’ we will calculate it for you, taking into account all adjustments. EXAMPLE:

The try-on garment has a shoulder width of 15.5 cm. You wish to have the ‚½ Collar diameter (shoulderneck point)’ reduced by 0.5 cm. The new shoulder width now amounts to: 15.5 cm + 0.5 cm = 16 cm. If you enter the ‚Finished Measurement Shoulder width = 15.5 cm’, we will reduce the shoulder width by 0.5 cm on the shoulder-arm point (V9).

CALCULATION OF ‚SHOULDER WIDTH’ WHEN THE ‚SHOULDER-ARM POINT’ AND ‚½ COLLAR DIAMETER (SHOULDER-NECK POINT)’ ARE CHANGED EXAMPLE:

The try-on garment has a shoulder width of 15 cm. You would like the shoulder width (V9) to be 0.3 cm wider and the ½ collar diameter (V41) to be reduced by 0.5 cm. The new shoulder width then amounts to: 15 cm + 0,3 cm + 0.5 cm = 15,8 cm. If you enter the ‚Finished Measurement Shoulder width’, we will respect this finished measurement. If the measurement should not match the desired alterations, we will correct the shoulder-arm point (V9) accordingly.

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Shoulder - ½ Collar diameter (shoulder-neck point) V41

TO MAKE COLLAR DIAMETER LARGER

TO MAKE COLLAR DIAMETER SMALLER

The neck ‘shoves’ the collar to the outside, the collar diameter is too small. As a result, strain appears on the collar and with it, small pleats, mainly on the shoulder point.

In the case of a slim neck, a gap appears between the neck and the jacket collar, the collar diameter is to large. Make sure that the protruding collar is not a result of an ‘bent posture’, ‘S Figure’ or a ‘round back’. A case of square shoulders can also lead to a protruding jacket collar.

The ½ collar diameter at shoulder-neck point will be made wider or smaller by 100% of the found value. Therefore the shoulder width will become wider or smaller with the same value. Picture shows reducement of ½ collar diameter.

ORIENTATION VALUES

Light 0,5 cm / Medium 1 cm The maximal values are to be found in our B2B system and depend on the chosen model.

Increase is rarely done in combination with: • Prominent chest (V13)

Reduction often in combination with: • Round back (V19+) • Bent figure (V10+) Reduction possible in combination with: • ½ Collar diameter (CBS) - (V23-)

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CALCULATION OF THE SHOULDER WIDTH WITH ALTERATION OF THE ½ COLLAR DIAMETER

Please make note of the alteration of ‚½ Collar diameter (shoulder-neck point) V41’ when determining the ‚Finished Measurement Shoulder width’. If the collar needs to be closer on the neck, a larger value should be entered for the ‚Finished Measurement Shoulder width’. If the collar diameter needs to be increased, the ‚Finished Measurement Shoulder width’ should be reduced. With this method, the shoulder-arm point (V9) remains unchanged. If you don’t give the ‚Finished Measurement Shoulder width’ we will calculate it for you, taking into account all adjustments. EXAMPLE :

The try-on garment has a shoulder width of 15.5 cm. You would like the ‚½ Collar diameter shoulder-neck point V41’ reduced by 0.5 cm. The new shoulder width now amounts to: 15.5 cm + 0.5 cm = 16 cm. If you enter the ‚Finished Measurement Shoulder width = 15.5 cm’, we will reduce the shoulder width by 0.5 cm on the shoulder-arm point (V9).

CALCULATION OF ‚SHOULDER WIDTH’ WHEN THE SHOULDER-ARM POINT AND ‚½ COLLAR DIAMETER (SHOULDER-NECK POINT)’ WILL BE ALTERED EXAMPLE :

The try-on garment has a shoulder width of 15 cm. You would like the shoulder width (V9) to be increased by 0.3 cm and that the ½ collar diameter (shoulder-neck point) (V41) be reduced by 0.5 cm. The new shoulder width then amounts to: 15 cm + 0.3 cm + 0.5 cm = 15.8 cm. If you enter the ‚Finished Measurement Shoulder width’, we will respect this finished measurement. If the measurement should not match the desired alterations, we will correct the shoulder-arm point (V9) accordingly.

DIFFERENTIATING BETWEEN ‚ROUND BACK’, ‚S-FIGURE’ AND ‚TOO-LARGE COLLAR DIAMETER’

When dealing with a protruding collar diameter, please first exclude the case of a round back or an S-figure. In the case of a round back, the back length is too short, the back «pulls» the jacket in the back away from the neck. In case of a slim neck, gaps appears sideways between the neck and the jacket collar. A combination of both is obviously also possible, in that case you better reduce the collar diameter in center back ‚½ Collar diameter (CBS) V23-‚ (maximum of 0.5 cm is possible) together with the adjustment(s) for ‚Round back V19+’ and possibly ‚Bent Figure V10+’.

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Shoulder – Finished Measurement Shoulder width

MEASURE GUIDE LINE FOR FINISHED MEASUREMENT SHOULDER WIDTH

Measure on the shoulder seam from the collar (shoulder-neck point) till shoulder-arm point. The jacket doesn’t have to be in balance when establishing ‚Finished Measurement Shoulder width, but has to be put in the correct position on the shoulders.

Also read ‚Introduction Shoulder width’. You will find there a summary of all adjustments that will influence the finished measurement shoulder width.

If you don’t give a value for 'Finished Measurement Shoulder width’, ‚Shoulder width (shoulder-arm point) V9’ or ‚½ Collar diameter (shoulder-neck point) V41’, you will receive the standard finished measurement for shoulder width of the stated jacket size. If you note a finished measurement for shoulder width, we will respect this finished measurement. If this finished measurement doesn’t correspond with the demanded adjustment(s) we will correct the adjustment ‚Shoulder width (shoulder-arm point) V9’ so your demanded finished measurement for shoulder width is reached.

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TIPS

SHOULDER WIDTH (SHOULDER-ARM POINT)

If the customer has very pronounced upper arm muscles and rather narrow shoulders, a compromise should be found. In order not to have the upper arm muscles stand out too much, the shoulder width must be larger than needed for the shoulders.

CALCULATION OF ‘SHOULDER WIDTH’ WITH ALTERATION ON THE SHOULDER-ARM POINT

Please note the amount by which you have increased or reduced the shoulder width at shoulder-arm point when you provide the shoulder width finished measurements. EXAMPLE :

The try-on garment has a shoulder width of 15 cm. You would like the shoulder width to be 0.3 cm more. The new shoulder width thus comes out to: 15 cm + 0.3 cm = 15.3 cm

CALCULATION OF ‚SHOULDER WIDTH’ WITH THE ALTERATION ON ½ COLLAR DIAMETER

Please note the alteration of the ½ collar diameter when determining ‚Finished Measurement Shoulder width’. If the collar needs to be closer on the neck, the finished measurement shoulder width should be given a larger value. If the collar diameter needs to be increased, the finished measurement shoulder width should be reduced. With this method, the shoulder-arm point (V9) remains unchanged. If you don’t give the ‚Finished Measurement Shoulder width’ we will calculate it for you, taking into account all adjustments. EXAMPLE:

The try-on garment has a shoulder width of 15.5 cm. You wish to have the ‚½ Collar diameter (shoulderneck point)’ reduced by 0.5 cm. The new shoulder width now amounts to: 15.5 cm + 0.5 cm = 16 cm. If you enter the ‚Finished Measurement Shoulder width = 15.5 cm’, we will reduce the shoulder width by 0.5 cm on the shoulder-arm point (V9).

CALCULATION OF ‚SHOULDER WIDTH’ WHEN THE SHOULDER-ARM POINT AND’ ½ COLLAR DIAMETER (SHOULDER-NECK POINT)’ ARE CHANGED EXAMPLE:

The try-on garment has a shoulder width of 15 cm. You would like the shoulder width (V9) to be 0.3 cm wider and the ½ collar diameter (V41) to be reduced by 0.5 cm. The new shoulder width then amounts to: 15 cm + 0,3 cm + 0.5 cm = 15,8 cm. If you enter the ‚Finished Measurement Shoulder width’, we will respect this finished measurement. If the measurement should not match the desired alterations, we will correct the shoulder-arm point (V9) accordingly.

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Shoulder - ½ Collar diameter (CBS) V23-

In case of a slim neck in combination with ‚Bent figure’, ‚S-figure’ or ‚Round back’, gaps appears between the neck and the jacket collar. In this case you better reduce the collar diameter in center back ‚½ Collar diameter (CBS) V23-’ (maximum of 0.5 cm is possible) together with the adjustment(s) for ‚Round back V19+’ and / or possibly ‚Bent Figure V10+’.

The excess of fabric on the neckline in center back has to be pinned away (vertically on both sides of CBS). You note halve a depth of the fold in the field ‚½ Collar diameter (CBS) V23-’.

The ½ collar diameter on center back seam will be made smaller (with 100% of the found value). Picture shows reducement of collar diameter on CBS.

ORIENTATION VALUES

Maximum possible reduction = 0.5 cm

Often in combination with: • Round back (V19+) • Bent figure (V10+) Possible in combination with: • ½ Collar diameter (Shoulder-neck point)- (V41-) Never in combination with: • ½ Back width (CBS) + (V26+)

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DIFFERENTIATING BETWEEN ‚ROUND BACK’ AND ‚TOO-LARGE COLLAR DIAMETER’

When dealing with a protruding collar diameter, please first exclude the case of a round back or an S-figure. In the case of a round back, the back length is too short, the back «pulls» the jacket in the back away from the neck. In case of a slim neck, gaps appears sideways between the collar of the jacket and the collar of the shirt. A combination of both is obviously also possible. If the customer has a round back and the jacket a ‚too-large collar diameter’, you better reduce the collar diameter in center back ‚½ Collar diameter (CBS) V23-‚ (maximum of 0.5 cm is possible) together with the adjustment(s) for ‚Round back V19+’ and possibly ‚Bent Figure V10+’.

POSSIBILITIES TO ADJUST ON THE CENTER BACK SEAM

In need of adjustment on CBS, you have the following possibilities: • ½ Waist and ½ seat (½Waist & ½ Seat (CBS) V25) • ½ Back width (½ Back width (CBS) V26) • Reduction ½ Collar diameter (½ Collar diameter (CBS) V23-) • Complete center back seam (½Waist & ½ Seat (CBS Collar - hem) V36)

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Shoulders – Sloping shoulder(s) V11-

Diagonal pleats build on the back, starting from the neckline and shoulder area towards the lower armhole area. The front section breaks below the chest part near the armhole (not detectible in case of small values).

The excess of fabric on armhole has to be pinned away (horizontally); this at shoulderblade and back width level till nothing on center back seam. The total depth of the thus created pleat gives the value for ‘Sloping shoulder(s)’, the shoulder slope will change with 50% of this found value. The value for left and right sloping shoulders can differ.

The front part is cut from the side part seam to the vertical edge of the front part and closed (by 50% of the found value). The backpart is cut the from side part seam to the neckline in center back and closed (by 50% of the found value). The side part will be made shorter (by 50% of the found value), so the armhole opening doesn’t change

ORIENTATION VALUES

Light 1 cm / Medium 2,5 cm / Strong 4 cm The maximal values are to be found in our B2B system and depend on the chosen model

Often in combination with: • Round back (V19+) Rarely in combination with: • Square shoulder on 1 side (V11+) in case of assymetry • Pleat under collar (V19-) • Depth of armhole deeper (V30) with larger values

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TIPS

COMBINATION OF ‚ROUND BACK’ AND ‚SLOPING SHOULDER(S)’

Please not the difference between pleats that are a result of ‚Round back’ from those which occur from ‚Sloping shoulder(s)’. Bring the jacket into balance and then determine, if necessary, ‚Sloping shoulder(s)’.

‚ERECT POSTURE’ IN COMBINATION WITH ‚SLOPING SHOULDER(S)’ OR ‚SQUARE SHOULDER(S)’

If the pleat content of the protruding fabric is not the same throughout, you have a case of a combination of erect posture and sloping shoulder(s) or square shoulder(s). EXAMPLE 1:

The pleat content is 3 cm on the left, 2 cm on centre back seam and 4 cm on the right. Therefore, the back height is 2 cm too long (from erect posture), additionally you are looking at a sloping shoulder of 1 cm on the left and 2 cm on the right. Please note: V10 –2; V11L –1; V11R –2 EXAMPLE 2:

The pleat content is 2 cm on the left, 2 cm on centre back seam and 1 cm on the right. Therefore, the back height is 2 cm too long (from erect posture), additionally you have a square shoulder of 1 cm on the right. Please note: V10 –2; V11R +1

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Shoulders – Square shoulders V11+

Cross pleats form on the back below the collar, these are also visible on the front. The jacket collar has the tendency of going up and away from the neck, the front edges can possibly run apart towards the hem. These cross pleats should not be confused with ‚Pleat under collar V19-’(which is only visible on the back) or with ‘Shoulders forward V59+’.

The excess of fabric under the collar has to be pinned away (horizontally). The total depth of the thus created pleat gives the value for ‘Square shoulder(s)’, the shoulder slope will change with 50% of this found value. The value for left and right square shoulders can differ. In the case of assymetry, a tension pleat forms at the square shoulder, the pinned pleat is larger on this side.

The front part is cut from the side part seam to the vertical edge of the front part and opened (by 50% of the found value). The backpart is cut the from side part seam to the neckline in center back and opened (by 50% of the found value). The side part will be made longer (by 50% of the found value), so the armhole opening doesn’t change

ORIENTATION VALUES

Light 1 cm / Medium 2,5 cm / Strong 4 cm The maximal values are to be found in our B2B system and depend on the chosen model Often in combination with : • Erect posture (V10-) Rarely in combination with : • Sloping shoulder on 1 side (V11-) in case of asymetry • Round back (V19+)

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TIPS

DIFFERENCE BETWEEN ‚SQUARE SHOULDER(S)’, ‚PLEAT UNDER COLLAR’ AND ‚SHOULDERS TO THE FRONT’

There is always a cross pleat below the collar, however: • ‚Pleat under collar V19-’: this cross pleat is visible only on the back. The front edges run parallel to the hem. • In the case of ‚Square shoulder(s) V11’: this cross pleat is also visible on the front section. The front edges run apart towards the hem. • In the case of ‚Shoulders to the front V59+’: this cross pleat is also visible on the front section. If the shoulders are extremely to the front, the front edges run apart towards the hem. The customer has the impression that the jacket presses on the front against the shoulders. ‚ERECT POSTURE’ IN COMBINATION WITH ‚SLOPING’ OR ‚SQUARE SHOULDER(S)’

If the pleat content of the material pinned over the shoulder blades is not the same throughout, you are looking at a combination of erect posture and sloping shoulder(s) or square shoulder(s). EXAMPLE 1 :

The pleat content is 3 cm on the left, 2 cm on center back seam and 4 cm on the right. Therefore the back length is 2 cm too long (from erect posture), additionally there is a sloping shoulder of 1 cm on the left and 2 cm on the right. You note : V10 –2; V11L –1; V11R –2 EXAMPLE 2 :

The pleat content is 2 cm on the left, 2 cm on center back seam and 1 cm on the right. Therefore the back height is 2 cm too long (from erect posture), additionally there is a square shoulder of 1 cm on the right. You note : V10 –2; V11R +1

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Shoulders – Shoulders to the front V59

A pleat builds on the front section from the collar to the shoulders, this pleat is also visible under the collar. The customer has the impression that the jacket presses on the front against the shoulders In case of extreme ‚Shoulders to the front’, the front edges run apart towards the hem. These cross pleats should not be confused with ‚Pleat under collar V19-’(which is only visible on the back) or with ‘Square shoulder(s) V11+’.

Note the extra length the customer needs in the shoulder area on the front part (on shoulder-arm point).

With this change the shoulder-arm point of front part will be put higher (by 100% of the found value) and this till nothing to the shoulder-neck point. Because this correction shouldn’t influence the sleeve length, the value added on the head height of the sleeve will be taken off on the hem of the sleeve.

ORIENTATION VALUES

Light 0.5 cm / / Medium 1 cm / Strong 1.5 cm The maximal values are to be found in our B2B system and depend on the chosen model

Often in combination with : • ½ Back width + (V3+) • Round back (V19+) Possible in combination with : • ½ Chest width (armhole) - (V39-) Rarely in combination with : • Sloping shoulder(s) (V11-) Never in combination with : •Front length shorter (shoulder-neck point) (V43-)

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TIPS

DIFFERENCE BETWEEN ‚SQUARE SHOULDERS’, ‚PLEAT UNDER COLLAR’ AND ‚SHOULDERS TO THE FRONT’

There is always a cross pleat below the collar, however: • ‚Pleat under collar V19-’: this cross pleat is visible only on the back. The front edges run parallel to the hem. • In the case of ‚Square shoulder(s) V11’: this cross pleat is also visible on the front section. The front edges run apart towards the hem. • In the case of ‚Shoulders to the front V59+’: this cross pleat is also visible on the front section. If the shoulders are extremely to the front, the front edges run apart towards the hem. The customer has the impression that the jacket presses on the front against the shoulders.

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Sleeve – Armhole diameter V15

MAKE ARMHOLE DIAMETER WIDER

MAKE ARMHOLE DIAMETER SMALLER

The armhole diameter affects the comfort in the chest area. If the armhole diameter is too small and the sleeves too tight in the upper arm area, the customer feels restricted and cramped in his movements. A typical example for this is a very athletic figure.

The armholes are too wide in the upper arm area and the armhole diameter is too large. The jacket does not fit the body in the chest area.

Please provide us with the value to alter the armhole diameter in cm. When increasing a armhole diameter that is too small, an estimated or experience-based value is applied. If the armhole diameter needs to be reduced, a part of the comfort pleat in the side part section and upper arm dimension can be fixed with a pin. The customer can now test his movement. Once the comfort level meets the customer’s expectations, measure the content of the pinned pleat and provide us this value in cm in the field ‚armhole diameter V15’. The comfort pleats should not be confused with pleats that build due to ‚Sloping shoulder V11’.

With this change both side seams on side part will be made larger or smaller (by 100% of the found value). Upper – and under sleeve will be adapted accordingly. The armhole diameter has an influence on the chest width and the upper arm (biceps). Picture shows larger.

ORIENTATION VALUES

Light 0.5 cm / Medium 1 cm / Strong 2 cm The maximal values are to be found in our B2B system and depend on the chosen model. Increase often in combination with: • Prominent chest (V13) Increase rarely in combination with: • ½ Waist (BP – side seams) - (V6-) • ½ Waist & ½ Seat (SP - Side seam) - (V21-) Increase never in combination with: • ½ Wrist width- (V18) • ½ Waist (BP – side seams) - (V6-) with larger values TIPS • ½ Waist & ½ Seat (SP - Side seam) - (V21-) with larger values

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TIPS

ARMHOLE DIAMETER

With armhole diameter there may be an issue of compromise between comfort and look. A highly bodyfitting jacket means few comfort pleats, movements of the customer are thus somewhat restricted. If the customer wishes to have more freedom of movement in the armhole area and biceps, this involves more comfort pleats, the jacket works more casually. EXCEEDING MAXIMUM VALUE OF ‚PROMINENT CHEST’

It is possible, in case of extreme prominent chest, that the maximum value of 1.5 cm prominent chest is exceeded. If so, you can add extra chest width by using additional to ‚Prominent chest’ the alteration ‚½ Chest width (armhole) V39+’. Make sure to check the armhole diameter V15 en make it wider if need be. When the found value is very high, we advice you to take 1 size larger. Shoulder width can more easily be adapted if necessary. It is very likely that front part also goes up in middle front, this due to prominent chest. Than you assess the missing front length, and note this in the field ‚Open front panel V24+’. EXAMPLE

You measure 2cm between the actual bridle and the correct bridle and you assess a missing front length of 0.75cm (so the vertical front edges run parallel). You divide this chest width like this: ‚Prominent chest’ 1.5 cm and ‚½ Chest width (armhole)’ 0.5 cm, but also ‚Open front panel’ 0.75 cm. You note: V13 +1.5 cm; V39 +0.5 cm; V24 +0.75 cm

THE COMBINATION OF ADJUSTMENTS WITH LARGER VALUES

Certain combinations of adjustments are not possible in case of larger values. With smaller values this problem does not occur, since the smooth line of the patterns isn’t compromised. EXAMPLE :

‚Armhole diameter V15’ is not possible in combination with ‚½ Waist (BP – side seams) V6-’ in case of larger values. If the armhole diameter is made a great deal larger, and this in combination with a strongly reduced waist width, the line on the sides will not be smooth and unnatural. A nice fitting is not attainable.

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Sleeve – ½ Wrist width V18

MAKE ½ WRIST WIDTH WIDER

MAKE ½ WRIST WIDTH SMALLER

The wrist width is to small. This can occur in the case of an especially large watch or with cufflinks. If the sleeve hem does not slide without issue over the watch or shirt, the ½ wrist width should be increased.

If the customer wishes to have a more body-fitting silhouette, the ½ wrist width can also be adjusted to a more narrow sleeve line.

Please provide us with the value to alter the wrist width in cm. When increasing the wrist width, an estimated or experience-based value is applied. If the wrist width needs to be reduced, the excess of fabric can be pinned away and measured. ATTENTION

When applying ‚½ Wrist width’ –1 cm, the finished wrist width changes by 2cm in total.

The sleeve will be made smaller or wider on the hem of the elbow seam by 200% of the found value (100% at either side of the elbow seam). This adjustment ends in nothing on the head of sleeve, and thereby influences the width on elbow and biceps.

ORIENTATION VALUES

Light 0.5 cm / Medium 1 cm / Strong 1.5 cm The maximal values are to be found in our B2B system and depend on the chosen model. Reduction never in combination with: • Armhole diameter + (V15+)

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Sleeves – Depth of armhole V30

MAKE DEPTH OF ARMHOLE HIGHER

MAKE DEPTH OF ARMHOLE DEEPER

Here the freedom of movement of the customer is affected, since the armhole is too deep and the socalled «bat-wing armhole effect» occurs. The jacket moves with each movement of the arms.

The armhole is uncomfortable to the customer, since it is too high and consequently too small. The fabric compresses under the arms and pleats build.

Please provide us with the amount to alter the armhole diameter in cm. Give an estimated or experience based value. When entering ‚Depth of armhole higher V30+’, the armhole will become smaller. If you request ‚Depth of armhole deeper V30-’, you will obtain a larger armhole. The width of the sleeves remains the same in both cases. B2B indication: higher + and lower -

With this change the lowest point of the armhole (underarm point) will be put higher or deeper by 100% of the found value. Picture shows higher.

ORIENTATION VALUES

Light 0.5 cm / Medium 1 cm / Strong 1.5 cm The maximal values are to be found in our B2B system and depend on the chosen model.

Deeper rarely in combination with: • Sloping shoulder(s) (V11-) with larger values

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ARMHOLE DEPTH

As long as enough space is provided for the arm (or / and armhole diameter), a higher armhole always gives the customer more freedom of movement as a deeper armhole.

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Sleeve – Sleeve to the back / front V32

SLEEVE TO THE FRONT

SLEEVE TO THE BACK

In the case of a sleeve position to the front, there is insufficient length on the elbow seam, the outer fabric is compressed in the front armhole area. Sleeve position to the front is typical for a ‚Bent’ or ‚Round back’ posture.

You recognize a sleeve position to the back if the elbow seam shows too much length. Diagonal pleats form on the upper armhole in backpart. Sleeve position to the back is typical for an ‚Erect posture’.

The value by how much the sleeve position should be altered, is a value you estimate. The value for left and right sleeve can differ. B2B indication: higher + and lower -

With this change the sleeves will be turned to the back or front (by 25% of the found value). Picture shows sleeve to the front.

ORIENTATION VALUES

Light 0.5 cm / Medium 1 cm / Strong 2 cm The maximal values are to be found in our B2B system and depend on the chosen model

Sleeve to the front rarely in combination with: • Erect posture (V10-)

Sleeve to the back rarely in combination with: • Bent posture (V10+)

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TIPS SLEEVE TO THE BACK

With an erect posture, the arm position is often to the back. When you apply the ‘Erect posture V10-’ alteration, you automatically obtain a sleeve position to the back (in relation to the value of the erect posture). This means that this addition value should appear only in the case of an extremely sleeve position to the back; by using ‚Sleeve to the back V32’. Please note, that a sleeve extremely positionned to the back will reduce the comfort.

SLEEVE TO THE FRONT

With a bent posture, the arm position is often to the front. When you apply the ‚Bent postureV10+’ alteration, you automatically obtain a sleeve position to the front (in relation to the value of the bent posture). This means that this additionally should appear only in the case of an extreme sleeve position to the front; by using ‚Sleeve to the front V32’.

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Waist- and Seat width - Introduction You can decide where ½ Jacket should be adapted. You have 2 possibilities:

½ Waist (FP – underarm seam) V48

½ Waist ( BP – side seams) V6

You have 7 possibilities to adapt ½ Jacket and ½ Seat at the same time:

½ Overlap V8

½ Waist & ½ Seat (CBS) V25

½ Waist & ½ Seat (SP – underarm seam) V22

½ Waist & ½ Seat (BP – side seam) V20

½ Waist & ½ Seat (FP & SP –underarm seam) V28

½ Waist & ½ Seat (SP – side seam) V21

½ Waist & ½ Seat (CBS Collar - hem) V36

You have 2 possibilities to adapt ½ Seat :

½ Seat (BP & SP – side seams) V7

½ Seat (SP – underarm seam) V27

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MAKE ½ JACKET AND / OR ½ SEAT LARGER

MAKE ½ JACKET AND / OR ½ SEAT SMALLER

It is almost or not possible to close the jacket, it is to small, the front edges remain open. In case of a strongly developed back, the jacket will be too tight or even get stuck on hip-area and the vent (if present) will stand open. ½ seat is to small.

The jacket is to large on waist and / or seat and the front edges overlap eachother. In case of a flat back or in case the client wants a well fitted jacket, you can make the ½ seat smaller.

The jacket has to be in balance so the front edges run paralell. Position the front parts so the jacket feels comfortable for your client. The jacket stands open (there’s a gap between both front edges) To determine the needed extra width, measure the distance from the middle of the button till the eye of the corresponding buttonhole on waist height all over the gap. This value has to be divided by 2.

The jacket has to be in balance so the front edges run paralell. When the front part overlap over the full length, and therefore are to large on chest-, waist , and hip height, you can make ½ Overlap smaller. To determine the needed extra width, you slide the left front part (with buttonholes) over the right front part till the jacket feels comfortable for your client. You can now put a pin throught the eye of the buttonhole on the right front part, at waist height. Measure the distance between the pin and the middle of the button on waist height all over the gap. This value has to be divided by 2 and put in field ‚½ Overlap’. Make sure the value is not too high (not above 2 cm).

In case ½ seat has to be made larger, you can measure on the vent(s) how much is needed to close it / them. With side vents: you note the full measured value. With 1 back vent: you devide the value by 2. With no vents: the needed value has to be estimated.

The values by which you want to make ½ jacket and / or ½ seat larger, have to be divided, according as the client’s figure, over the available fields.

In case you want to take off even more on ½ jacket and / or ½ seat, you can pin it away on all corresponding seams. Make sure to pin off equally on both sides of the jacket. The values are to be divided, according as the client’s figure, over the available field

When changing ½ jacket, please fill in the ‚Finished Measurement ½ Jacket’. You keep in mind all adjustments that influence ½ jacket. EXAMPLE :

The trial jacket has ½ jacket = 52 cm. You want to add 3 cm extra on ½ jacket and 2 cm on ½ seat. Based on the client’s figure you choose the following adjustments: ‚½ Overlap’ + 0.5 cm; ‚½ Waist (FP- underarm seam)’ + 0.5cm; ‚½ Waist & ½ Seat (BP – side seams)’ + 1 cm; ‚½ Waist & ½ Seat (SP – side seam)’ + 1 cm. The ‚Finished Measurement ½ Jacket’ becomes 55 cm . You note: V8 +0.5 cm ; V48 +0.5 cm; V20 +1 cm; V21 +1 cm; Finished Measurement ½ Jacket = 55 cm. If you note a finished measurement for ½ jacket, we will respect this finished measurement. If this finished measurement doesn’t correspond with the demanded adjustment(s) we will use the given adjustment as a guideline for the division of ½ jacket, but always by respecting the demanded finished measurement. This is the basic rule for all demanded finished measurements. If you only fill in the field of ‚Finished Measurement ½ Jacket’, and don’t inform us where you want more or less width, we will devide it even all over ½ Jacket. If you don’t give any adjustments or a value for ‚½ Jacket’, you will receive the standard finished measurement for ½ jacket of the stated jacket size. Before you begin the measurements, you should make sure that the jacket is in balance. If necessary, you should bring it into balance. (Exceptions: measuring sleeve length and shoulder width)

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Waist- and Seat width - ½ Overlap V8 You apply this alteration when the front sections are equally too wide or too flat on the chest, waist and hips. Otherwise, you enter for example ‚Prominent chest V13’, ‚½ Waist (BP – side seams) V6’ or ‚½ Seat (BP – side seams) V7’.

Determining the alterations to be done: See Introduction Waist – and Seat width

Please provide in any case the finished measurement for the desired ½ jacket width for control purposes. When doing so, please take any alteration that has an effect on the ½ jacket width into consideration. EXAMPLE

The try-on garment has a ½ jacket width of 52 cm. You would like to reduce the ½ overlap by 0.5 cm. The new Finished Measurement ½ Jacket amounts to: 52 cm - 0.5 cm = 51.5 cm

The front part will be made smaller or wider at the middle front edges at waist and seat height by 100% of the found value. The chest width will be adapted by 70% of this value. Picture shows increase of overlap.

ORIENTATION VALUES

Light 0.5 cm / Medium 1 cm / Strong 2 cm The maximal values are to be found in our B2B system and depend on the chosen model

Increase often in combination with: • Prominent chest (V13) • ½ Waist (FP- underarm seam) + (V48+) Increase rarely in combination with: • ½ Chest width (armhole) - (V39-)

Reduction often in combination with: • ½ Chest width (armhole) - (V39-) • ½ Waist (FP- underarm seam) - (V48-) Reduction rarely in combination with: • Prominent chest (V13)

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TIPS

‚½ OVERLAP’ AND ‚PROMINENT CHEST’

The alteration ‚½ Overlap’ as well as ‚Prominent chest’ affects the chest dimension on the front edges. EXAMPLE:

If ‚½ Overlap V8’ is reduced by 1cm and ‚Prominent chest V13’ is simultaneously given 1cm the alteration of the chest width is completely reversed. Only the enhanced chestdart gives the front section extra form. DISTRIBUTE ADJUSTMENTS OVER AS MUCH FIELDS AS POSSIBLE

If there are big size adjustments in the waist- and seat width, these should be distributed as evenly as possible, but of course with respect to the figure type. You can use the following fields: • ½ Overlap V8 • ½ Waist (FP – underarm seam) V48 • ½ Waist & ½ Seat (SP – underarm seam) V22 • ½ Waist & ½ Seat (SP – side seam) V21 • ½ Waist & ½ Seat (BP – side seam) V20 • ½ Waist (BP – side seams) V6 • ½ Waist & ½ Seat (CBS) V25 • ½ Waist & ½ Seat (CBS Collar – hem) V36

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Waist- and seat width - ½ Waist (FP – underarm seam) V48 This alteration is applied when there is too much or too little width on the front panel, at waist level. A reduction at this position results in an optically smaller silhouette. With a stout figure, necessary width can be added here.

Determining the alterations to be done: See Introduction Waist – and Seat width

Please provide in any case the finished measurement for the desired ½ jacket width for control purposes. When doing so, please take any alteration that has an effect on the ½ jacket width into consideration. EXAMPLE

The try-on garment has a ½ jacket width of 52 cm. You would like to reduce the ½ overlap by 0.5 cm. The new Finished Measurement ½ Jacket amounts to: 52 cm - 0.5 cm = 51.5 cm.

The front part will be made smaller or wider at the underarm seam at waist height (by 100% of the found value), till nothing on underarm point and pocket height. Picture shows ½ waist smaller.

ORIENTATION VALUES = MAXIMUM VALUE

0.5 cm

Reduction often in combination with: • Deeper pocket dart ( V17)

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TIPS

DISTRIBUTE ADJUSTMENTS OVER AS MUCH FIELDS AS POSSIBLE

If there are big size adjustments in the waist- and seat width, these should be distributed as evenly as possible, but of course with respect to the figure type. You can use the following fields: • ½ Overlap V8 • ½ Waist (FP – underarm seam) V48 • ½ Waist & ½ Seat (SP – underarm seam) V22 • ½ Waist & ½ Seat (SP – side seam) V21 • ½ Waist & ½ Seat (BP – side seam) V20 • ½ Waist (BP – side seams) V6 • ½ Waist & ½ Seat (CBS) V25 • ½ Waist & ½ Seat (CBS collar – hem) V36

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Waist- and Seat width - ½ Waist V6

You use this adjustment when you want to make the side seam at waist height smaller or wider.

Determining the alterations to be done: See Introduction Waist – and Seat width

Please provide in any case the finished measurement for the desired ½ jacket width for control purposes. When doing so, please take any alteration that has an effect on the ½ jacket width into consideration. EXAMPLE

The try-on garment has a ½ jacket width of 52 cm. You would like to reduce the ½ overlap by 2 cm. The new Finished Measurement ½ Jacket amounts to: 52 cm - 2 cm = 50 cm.

The back- and side part will be made smaller or wider at the side seams at waist height (by 100% of the found value), till nothing on armhole and hem. Picture shows ½ waist smaller.

ORIENTATION VALUES

Increase ½ waist: Light 1 cm / Medium 2 cm / Strong 3 cm Reduce ½ waist: Light 0.5 cm / Medium 1 cm / Strong 2 cm The maximal values are to be found in our B2B system and depend on the chosen model.

Increase often in combination with: • ½ Seat (BP & SP – side seams) + (V7+)

Reduction often in combination with: • ½ Seat (BP & SP – side seams) - (V7-)

Increase rarely in combination with: • ½ Seat (BP & SP – side seams) - (V7-)

Reduction rarely in combination with: • ½ Seat (BP & SP – side seams)+ (V7+) • Armhole diameter + (V15+)

Increase never in combination with: • ½ Seat (BP & SP – side seams) - (V7-) with large values

Reduction never in combination with • Armhole diameter + (V15+) with larger values • Length of vent longer (V16+) with larger values • ½ Seat (BP & SP – side seams) - (V7-) with larger values

To ensure a smooth line flow, and therefore a good fitting, it is logical to adapt ½ waist in the same direction as ½ seat.

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TIPS

DISTRIBUTE ADJUSTMENTS OVER AS MUCH FIELDS AS POSSIBLE

If there are big size adjustments in the waist- and seat width, these should be distributed as evenly as possible, but of course with respect to the figure type. You can use the following fields: • ½ Overlap V8 • ½ Waist (FP – underarm seam) V48 • ½ Waist & ½ Seat (SP – underarm seam) V22 • ½ Waist & ½ Seat (SP – side seam) V21 • ½ Waist & ½ Seat (BP – side seam) V20 • ½ Waist (BP – side seams) V6 • ½ Waist & ½ Seat (CBS) V25 • ½ Waist & ½ Seat (CBS collar – hem) V36

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Waist- and Seat width - ½ Waist & ½ Seat (CBS) V25 You use this adjustment when there is too much or too little dimension /width in the centre back seam at waist- and hip level.

Determining the alterations to be done: See Introduction Waist – and Seat width

Please provide in any case the finished measurement for the desired ½ jacket width for control purposes. When doing so, please take any alteration that has an effect on the ½ jacket width into consideration. EXAMPLE

The try-on garment has a ½ jacket width of 52 cm. You would like to reduce ½ waist & ½ seat at CBS by 0.5 cm. The new Finished Measurement ½ Jacket amounts to: 52 cm – 0.5 cm = 51.5 cm.

The back part will be made smaller or wider at the CBS at waist- and hip height by 100% of the found value. Picture shows ½ waist & ½ seat at CBS smaller.

ORIENTATION VALUES

Light 0.5 cm / Strong 1 cm The maximal values are to be found in our B2B system and depend on the chosen model.

Increase never in combination with: • ½ Back width (CBS) - (V26-)

Reduction often in combination with: • ½ Seat (BP & SP – side seams) - (V7-) • ½ Waist (BP – side seams) – (V6-) Reduction rarely in combination with: • ½ Seat (BP & SP – side seams) + (V7+) (Exception: hollow back) Reduction never in combination with • ½ Back width (CBS) + (V26+)

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TIPS

DISTRIBUTE ADJUSTMENTS OVER AS MUCH FIELDS AS POSSIBLE

If there are big size adjustments in the waist- and seat width, these should be distributed as evenly as possible, but of course with respect to the figure type. You can use the following fields: • ½ Overlap V8 • ½ Waist (FP – underarm seam) V48 • ½ Waist & ½ Seat (SP – underarm seam) V22 • ½ Waist & ½ Seat (SP – side seam) V21 • ½ Waist & ½ Seat (BP – side seam) V20 • ½ Waist (BP – side seams) V6 • ½ Waist & ½ Seat (CBS) V25 • ½ Waist & ½ Seat (CBS collar – hem) V36

HOLLOW BACK

With a hollow back, it is important to shape the centre back seam at waist level close to the body. In the base jacket, the space is not in the correct position. When using the adjustment ‚½ Waist & ½ Seat (CBS) V25’, both waist- as hip width are reduced. To recover the original seat width you can use the adjustment ‚½ Seat (BP & SP – side seams) V7+’.

S- FIGURE

If, in addition to a round back, the abdomen and hips are slid or forward, we consider this as an ‚S-figure’ In this case you determine the value of ‚Round back V19+’ and you move the width on waist- and hip height to the front. We advice you to adapt the jacket with the following codes: V19+, V8+, V28+, V48+, V25- and V39-

POSSIBILITIES TO ADJUST ON THE CENTER BACK SEAM

In need of adjustment on CBS, you have the following possibilities: • ½ Waist and ½ seat (½Waist & ½ Seat (CBS) V25) • ½ Back width (½ Back width (CBS) V26) • Reduction ½ Collar diameter (½ Collar diameter (CBS) V23-) • Complete center back seam (½Waist & ½ Seat (CBS Collar - hem) V36)

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Waist- and Seat width - ½ Waist & ½ Seat (BP - side seam) V20

You use this adjustment when you want to make the side seam of back part at waist- and seat height smaller or wider.

Determining the alterations to be done: See Introduction Waist – and Seat width

Please provide in any case the finished measurement for the desired ½ jacket width for control purposes. When doing so, please take any alteration that has an effect on the ½ jacket width into consideration.

The back part will be made smaller or wider (by 100% of the found value) at the side seams at waist- and seat height. Picture shows ½ waist & ½ seat smaller.

ORIENTATION VALUES

Light 0,5 cm / Strong 1 cm The maximal values are to be found in our B2B system and depend on the chosen model.

Enlarge often in combination with: • ½ Waist & ½ Seat (SP – side seam)+ (V21+)

Reduction often in combination with: • ½ Waist & ½ Seat (SP – side seam) - (V21-)

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TIPS DISTRIBUTE ADJUSTMENTS OVER AS MUCH FIELDS AS POSSIBLE

If there are big size adjustments in the waist- and seat width, these should be distributed as evenly as possible, but of course with respect to the figure type. You can use the following fields: • ½ Overlap V8 • ½ Waist (FP – underarm seam) V48 • ½ Waist & ½ Seat (SP – underarm seam) V22 • ½ Waist & ½ Seat (SP – side seam) V21 • ½ Waist & ½ Seat (BP – side seam) V20 • ½ Waist (BP – side seams) V6 • ½ Waist & ½ Seat (CBS) V25 • ½ Waist & ½ Seat (CBS collar – hem) V36

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Waist - and Seat width - ½ Waist & ½ Seat (SP - Side seam) V21 You use this adjustment when you want to make the side seam of side part at waist- and seat height smaller or wider.

Determining the alterations to be done: See Introduction Waist – and Seat width

Please provide in any case the finished measurement for the desired ½ jacket width for control purposes. When doing so, please take any alteration that has an effect on the ½ jacket width into consideration.

The side part will be made smaller or wider (by 100% of the found value) at the side seam at waist- and seat height. Picture shows ½ waist & ½ seat smaller.

ORIENTATION VALUES

Light 0,5 cm / Strong 1 cm The maximal values are to be found in our B2B system and depend on the chosen model.

Enlarge often in combination with: • ½ Waist & ½ Seat (BP – side seam) + (V20+)

Reduction often in combination with: • ½ Waist & ½ Seat (BP – side seam) - (V20-) Reduction rarely in combination with: • Armhole diameter + (V15+) Reduction never in combination with: • Armhole diameter + (V15+) with larger values

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TIPS

DISTRIBUTE ADJUSTMENTS OVER AS MUCH FIELDS AS POSSIBLE

If there are big size adjustments in the waist- and seat width, these should be distributed as evenly as possible, but of course with respect to the figure type. You can use the following fields: • ½ Overlap V8 • ½ Waist (FP – underarm seam) V48 • ½ Waist & ½ Seat (SP – underarm seam) V22 • ½ Waist & ½ Seat (SP – side seam) V21 • ½ Waist & ½ Seat (BP – side seam) V20 • ½ Waist (BP – side seams) V6 • ½ Waist & ½ Seat (CBS) V25 • ½ Waist & ½ Seat (CBS collar – hem) V36

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Waist- and Seat width - ½ Waist & ½ Seat (SP - underarm seam) V22

You use this adjustment when you want to make the underarm seam of side part at waist- and seat height smaller or wider.

Determining the alterations to be done: See Introduction Waist – and Seat width

Please provide in any case the finished measurement for the desired ½ jacket width for control purposes. When doing so, please take any alteration that has an effect on the ½ jacket width into consideration.

The side part will be made smaller or wider (by 100% of the found value) at the underarm seam at waist- and seat height. Picture shows ½ waist & ½ seat smaller.

ORIENTATION VALUES

Light 0,5 cm / Strong 1 cm The maximal values are to be found in our B2B system and depend on the chosen model.

Increase never in combination with : • ½ Seat (SP – underarm seam) + (V27+) with larger values

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TIPS

DISTRIBUTE ADJUSTMENTS OVER AS MUCH FIELDS AS POSSIBLE

If there are big size adjustments in the waist- and seat width, these should be distributed as evenly as possible, but of course with respect to the figure type. You can use the following fields: • ½ Overlap V8 • ½ Waist (FP – underarm seam) V48 • ½ Waist & ½ Seat (SP – underarm seam) V22 • ½ Waist & ½ Seat (SP – side seam) V21 • ½ Waist & ½ Seat (BP – side seam) V20 • ½ Waist (BP – side seams) V6 • ½ Waist & ½ Seat (CBS) V25 • ½ Waist & ½ Seat (CBS collar – hem) V36

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Waist- and Seat width - ½ Waist & ½ Seat (FP & SP under arm seams) V28

You use this adjustment when you want to make the underarm seam of front part and side part at waist- and seat height smaller or wider. Like taking off the skirt-effect (weavy- effect) on hem.

Determining the alterations to be done: See Introduction Waist – and Seat width

Please provide in any case the finished measurement for the desired ½ jacket width for control purposes. When doing so, please take any alteration that has an effect on the ½ jacket width into consideration.

The front part and side part will be made smaller or wider at the underarm seam at waist- and seat height. At waistheight by 50% of the found value; at seat height by 100% of the found value. Picture shows ½ waist & ½ seat smaller.

ORIENTATION VALUES

Light 0,5 cm / Strong 1 cm The maximal values are to be found in our B2B system and depend on the chosen model

Increase never in combination with : • ½ Seat (SP – underarm seam) + (V27+) with larger values

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TIPS

DISTRIBUTE ADJUSTMENTS OVER AS MUCH FIELDS AS POSSIBLE

If there are big size adjustments in the waist- and seat width, these should be distributed as evenly as possible, but of course with respect to the figure type. You can use the following fields: • ½ Overlap V8 • ½ Waist (FP – underarm seam) V48 • ½ Waist & ½ Seat (SP – underarm seam) V22 • ½ Waist & ½ Seat (SP – sideseam) V21 • ½ Waist & ½ Seat (BP – sideseam) V20 • ½ Waist (BP – sideseams) V6 • ½ Waist & ½ Seat (CBS) V25 • ½ Waist & ½ Seat (CBS collar – hem) V36

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Waist- and Seat width: ½ Waist & ½ Seat (CBS collar - hem) V36 You use this adjustment when you want to make the center back seam over full length (= on collar, back width, waist- and seat height) smaller or wider.

Determining the alterations to be done: See Introduction Waist – and Seat width, ½ Back width (CBS) V26 and ½ Collar diameter (CBS) V23-.

Please provide in any case the finished measurement for the desired ½ jacket width for control purposes. When doing so, please take any alteration that ha an effect on the ½ jacket width into consideration.

The back part will be made smaller or wider by 100% of the found value over the full length of the CBS. Picture shows smaller.

ORIENTATION VALUES

Maximum value possible 0.5 cm

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TIPS

DISTRIBUTE ADJUSTMENTS OVER AS MUCH FIELDS AS POSSIBLE

If there are big size adjustments in the waist- and seat width, these should be distributed as evenly as possible, but of course with respect to the figure type.

POSSIBILITIES TO ADJUST ON THE CENTER BACK SEAM

In need of adjustment on CBS, you have the following possibilities: • ½ Waist and ½ seat (½Waist & ½ seat (CBS) V25) • ½ Back width (½ Back width (CBS) V26) • Reduction ½ Collar diameter (½ Collar diameter (CBS) V23-) • Complete center back seam (½Waist & ½ seat (CBS Collar - hem) V36)

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Waist- and Seat width – Finished Measurement ½ Jacket MEASURE GUIDELINE FOR FINISHED MEASUREMENT ½ JACKET

Lay the jacket flat on the table and measure on waist height (smallest part of the jacket) the distance from the front edge till the center back seam.

You note the finished measurement ½ jacket (for example 55cm) in the field ‚½ Jacket SB’ for a jacket with single breasted closure. For a double breasted jacket you note this finished measurement in the field ‚½ Jacket DB’. We will make the correct calculation of ‚Finished Measurement ½ Jacket’ in case the ordered model doesn’t correspond with the try-on garment regarding the closure.

Please provide in any case the finished measurement for the desired ½ jacket width for control purposes. When doing so, please take any alteration that has an effect on the ½ jacket width into consideration. If you note a finished measurement for ½ jacket, we will respect this finished measurement. If this finished measurement doesn’t correspond to the demanded adjustment(s) we will use the given adjustment as a guideline for the division of ½ jacket, but always by respecting the demanded finished measurement. This is the basic rule for all demanded finished measurements.

Also read ‚Introduction Waist- and seat width’. You will find there a summary of all adjustments that will influence the finished measurement ½ Jacket.

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TIPS

CONTROL CALCULATION OF THE’ FINISHED MEASUREMENT ½ JACKET’

½ Jacket = ½ Waist + 4 to 6 cm

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Waist- and Seat width - ½ Seat (BP & SP – side seams) V7 You use this adjustment when you want to make the side seams at seat height of the side- and back part smaller or wider.

Determining the alterations to be done:

See Introduction Waist – and Seat width Please provide in any case the finished measurement for the desired ½ jacket width for control purposes. When doing so, please take any alteration that has an effect on the ½ jacket width into consideration.

The back part and side part will be made smaller or wider (by 100% of the found value) at side seams and underarm seam at seat height. Picture shows smaller.

ORIENTATION VALUES

Light 1 cm / Medium 2 cm / Strong 3 cm The maximal values are to be found in our B2B system and depend on the chosen model.

Increase often in combination with : • ½ Waist (BP – side seams)+ (V6+)

Reduction often in combination with : • ½ Waist (BP - side seams)- (V6-)

Increase possible in combination with : • ½ Waist (BP – side seams)- (V6-) • ½ Waist & ½ Seat (CBS) - (V25-) (Exception: hollow back)

Reduction possible in combination with : • ½ Waist (BP - side seams)+ (V6+)

Increase never in combination with: • ½ Waist (BP - side seams)- (V6-) with larger values

Reduction never in combination with : • ½ Waist (BP - side seams)+ (V6+) with larger values

To ensure a smooth line flow, and therefore a good fitting, it is logical to adapt ½ waist in the same direction as ½ seat.

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TIPS

DISTRIBUTE ADJUSTMENTS OVER AS MUCH FIELDS AS POSSIBLE

If there are big size adjustments in the seat width, these should be distributed as evenly as possible, but of course with respect to the figure type. You can use the following fields: • ½ Seat (BP & SP – side seams) V7 • ½ Seat (SP – underarm seam) V27 HOLLOW BACK

With a hollow back, it is important to shape the centre back seam at waist level close to the body. In the trial jacket, the space is not in the correct position. When using the adjustment ‚½ Waist & ½ Seat (CBS) V25-’, both waist- as seat width are reduced. To recover the original seat width you can use the adjustment ‚½ Seat (BP & SP – side seams) V7+’.

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Waist- and Seat width - ½ Seat (SP - underarm seam) V27

You use this adjustment when you want to make the underarm seam at seat height of the side part smaller or wider.

Determining the alterations to be done:

See Introduction Waist – and Seat width

The side part will be made smaller or wider (by 100% of the found value) at underarm seam at seat height. Picture shows smaller.

ORIENTATION VALUES

Light 0,5 cm / Strong 1 cm The maximal values are to be found in our B2B system and depend on the chosen model.

Increase never in combination with: • ½ Waist & ½ Seat (SP - underarm seam)+ (V22+) with larger values • ½ Waist & ½ Seat (FP & SP - underarm seam)+ (V28+) with larger values

Reduction often in combination with: • Deeper pocketdart (V17)

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TIPS

DISTRIBUTE ADJUSTMENTS OVER AS MUCH FIELDS AS POSSIBLE

If there are big size adjustments in the seat width, these should be distributed as evenly as possible, but of course with respect to the figure type. You can use the following fields: • ½ Seat (BP & SP – side seams) V7 • ½ Seat (SP – underarm seam) V27

VERY STOUT PERSON

Your customer is very stout and the front part falls from pocket height as a skirt down. In this case we propose you use along with ‚Deeper pocketdart V17’ also ‚½ Seat (SP – underarm seam) V27’ to reduce additionally the seat width in the side part.

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Length – Introduction jacket length You have 2 possibilities to adapt the jacket length : • When using the adjustment ‚Jacket length (hem + waist) V1’, the jacket length will increase with 100% of the demanded value. Waist level, pocket level, position of highest button and vent height will follow the direction with 50% of the demanded value. This way the proportions remain the same. • When using the adjustment ‚Jacket length (hem) V34’, the jacket length will increase with 100% of the demanded value. Waist level, pocket level, position of highest button and vent height will be unchanged. An application could be the adjustment of length from a jacket to achieve a ‚Long jacket’.

If you only fill in the field of ‚Finished Measurement Jacket length’, we will adapt the length with the adjustment ‚Jacket length (hem + waist)V1’. The adjustments ‚Jacket length (hem + waist) V1’ and ‚Jacket length (hem) V34’ can’t be done simultaneoulsy. If you only want to replace the waist height you better use ‚Waist level higher / lower V35’.

Jacket length (hem + waist) V1

Jacket length (hem) V34

Please provide in any case the finished measurement for the desired jacket length for control purposes. When doing so, please take any alteration that has an effect on the jacket length into consideration. If you note a finished measurement for jacket length, we will respect this finished measurement. If this finished measurement doesn’t correspond to the demanded adjustment(s) we will use de given adjustment as a guideline for the division of jacket length, but always by respecting the demanded finished measurement. This is the basic rule for all demanded finished measurements. You need to take into account all adjustments on the back length which have an influence on the jacket length. These adjustments are: ‚Erect posture’, ‚Bent posture’, ‚Round back’ and ‚Pleat under collar’. If you don’t give any adjustments or a value for ‚Jacket length (hem + waist) V1’, ‚Jacket length (hem) V34’ or ‚Finished Measurement Jacket length’ you will receive the standard finished measurement for jacket length of the stated jacket size (see measurement scale according to the choosen model). When determining the jacket length, you take into account the wishes of the customer and the present fashion trend.

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EXAMPLES IN LENGTH CHANGES EXAMPLE 1 :

You want a jacket with total length of 82 cm and you note: ‚Jacket length (hem + waist) V1’ + 4 cm. The standard measure for jacket length is 78 cm. You make the jacket 4 cm longer. The waist level, pocket level, position of highest button and vent height will be replaced 2 cm lower. Your customer is taller than the average man. EXAMPLE 2 :

You want a jacket with total length of 74 cm and you note: ‚Finished Measurement Jacket length’ = 74 cm. The standard measure for jacket length is 78 cm. You make the jacket 4 cm shorter. The waist level, pocket level, position of highest button and vent height will be replaced 2 cm higher. Your customer is is smaller than the average man or he prefers to wear his jacket rather short. EXAMPLE 3 :

You want a jacket with total length of 80 cm and you note: ‚Jacket length (hem) V34’ + 2 cm. The standard measure for jacket length is 78 cm. You make the jacket 2 cm longer. The waist level, pocket level, position of highest button and vent height will not be replaced and remain at there original position. The proportions of the jacket will change, the distance between the hem and the pocket will become relatively larger. With larger values the jacket will will loose his classic-original look.

91


Length – Jacket length (hem + waist) V1 If you want to adapt the jacket length and you want the waist level, pocket level, position of highest button and vent height to follow the direction proportionally, you note your adjustment in the field ‚Jacket length (hem + waist) V1’ or in the field ‚Finished Measurement Jacket length’. You need to take into account all adjustments on the back height which have an influence on the jacket length. These adjustments are: ‚Erect posture’, ‚Bent posture’, ‚Round back’ and ‚Pleat under collar’. ATTENTION:

The adjustments‚Jacket length (hem + waist) V1’ and ‚Jacket length (hem) V34’ can’t be done simultaneoulsy.

The jacket length will be made shorter or longer (by 100% of the found value) at the hem. The waist level, pocket level, position of highest button and vent height will follow (by 50% of the demanded value) in this direction. Picture shows longer.

ORIENTATION VALUES

Light 1 cm / Medium 3 cm / Strong 5 cm The maximal values are to be found in our B2B system and depend on the chosen model.

92


TIPS

DETERMINING ‚JACKET LENGTH’ WITH ‚ERECT POSTURE’

Measure along the centre back seam, from the collar seam to the hem when the jacket is in balance, i.e. across the pins of the erect posture adjustment. EXAMPLE 1:

The try-on garment has a jacket length of 79 cm. You have pinned 2 cm of back length and noted ‚Erect figure V10’ –2 cm. The client finds this jacket length to his liking. You now measure a jacket length of 77cm. You note this value in the field ‚Finished Measurement Jacket length’. EXAMPLE 2:

The try-on garment has a jacket length of 79 cm. You have pinned 2 cm of back length length and noted ‚Erect figure V10’ –2 cm. The client finds this jacket length 3 cm too short. You now measure a jacket length of 77 cm. However, you note 77 cm + 3 cm = 80 cm in the field ‚Finished Measurement Jacket length’.

DETERMINE ‚JACKET LENGTH’ WITH ‚PLEAT UNDER COLLAR’

Measure along the centre-back seam, from the collar seam to the hem when the jacket is in balance, i.e. across the pins of the pleat under collar adjustment.. EXAMPLE 1:

The try-on garment has a jacket length of 79 cm. You have pinned 1cm of pleat under collar and noted ‚Pleat under collar V19’ - 1 cm. The client finds this jacket length to his liking. You now measure a jacket length of 78 cm. You note this value in the field ‚Finished Measurement Jacket length’. EXAMPLE 2:

The try-on garment has a jacket length of 79 cm. You have pinned 1 cm of pleat under collar and noted ‚Pleat under collar V19’ - 1 cm. The client finds this jacket length 3 cm too short. You now measure a jacket length of 78 cm. However, you note 78 cm + 3 cm = 81 cm in the field ‚Finished Measurement Jacket length’.

DETERMINE ‚JACKET LENGTH’ WITH ‚BENT FIGURE’ OR ‚ROUND BACK’

Measure along the centre-back seam, from the collar seam to the hem when the jacket is in balance and add the necessary additional back length. EXAMPLE 1:

The try-on garment has a jacket length of 79cm. You need 2 cm of additional back length, due to bent posture or a round back. The jacket is in balance, and therefore 2cm slid to the back. The client finds this jacket length to his liking. You measure 79 cm of jacket length and add 2 cm. You note this value (81 cm) in the field ‚Finished Measurement Jacket length’. You also note: ‚Bent figure V10’ + 2 cm or ‚Round back V19’ + 2 cm or you divide this 2cm over both fields: ‚Bent figure V10’ + 1 cm and ‚Round back V19’ + 1 cm. EXAMPLE 2:

The try-on garment has a jacket length of 79cm. You need 2cm of additional back length, due to bent posture or a round back. The jacket is in balance, and therefore 2cm slid to the back. The client finds this jacket length 3cm too short. You measure 79 cm of jacket length and add 2 cm + 3 cm. You note 79 cm + 2 cm + 3 cm = 84 cm in the field ‚Finished Measurement Jacket length’. You also note: ‚Bent figure V10’ + 2 cm or ‚Round back V19’ + 2 cm or you divide this 2cm over both fields: ‚Bent figure V10’ + 1 cm and ‚Round back V19’ + 1 cm. To avoid errors, you can put the the tape measure at 2 cm(= value needed for adjustment) to the collar seam and then measure the jacket length along the centre back seam to the hem.

93


Length – Finished Measurement Jacket length

MEASURE GUIDELINE FOR FINISHED MEASUREMENT JACKET LENGTH

Measure along the centre back seam from collar seam to the hem. If you do not enter a value in the jacket length field, you will obtain a standard full jacket length for the given jacket size. The jacket has to be in balance when establishing ‚Finished Measurement Jacket length’

Please provide in any case the finished measurement for the desired jacket length for control purposes. When doing so, please take any alteration that has an effect on the jacket length into consideration. If you note a finished measurement for jacket length, we will respect this finished measurement. If you only give a value for ‚Finished Measurement Jacket length’, we will adapt the jacket length with the alterations ‚Jacket length (Hem + Waist) V1’. You need to take into account all adjustments on the back height which have an influence on the jacket length. These adjustments are: ‚Erect figure’, ‚Bent figure’, ‚Round back’ and ‚Pleat under collar’.

Also read ‚Introduction Jacket length’. You will find there a summary of all adjustments that will influence the finished measurement jacket length.

94


Length – Finished Measurement Sleeve length

MEASURE GUIDELINE FOR FINISHED MEASUREMENT SLEEVE LENGTH

Measure from the centre of the hem on sleeve up to the head of the sleeve, at the end of the shoulder seam. The jacket doesn’t have to be in balance when establishing ‚Finished Measurement Sleeve length’, but needs to be put in the correct position on the shoulders.

If you do not enter a value in the field ‚Finished Measurement Sleeve length’, you will obtain a standard sleeve length of the stated jacket size. If you would like to lengthen or shorten the sleeve length, enter the desired sleeve length in the field ‚Finished Measurement Sleeve length’, the sleeve vent will remain unchanged. The left and right sleeve lengths can of course be different. When determining the desired sleeve length you should follow the individual wishes of the customer (ex.cuffs visible or not). EXAMPLE:

The try-on garment has a sleeve length of 63 cm. You would like to have the left sleeve length reduced by 1 cm. The new left sleeve length then amounts to: 63 cm - 1 cm = 62 cm The right sleeve length remains 63 cm.

The sleeve length will be made shorter or longer (by 100% of the found value) at the hem as finished measurement requiers. The wrist width and sleeve vent remains unchanged. Picture shows shorter.

ORIENTATION VALUES

Light 0,5 cm / Medium 1,5 cm / Strong 3 cm The maximal values are to be found in our B2B system and depend on the chosen model.

95


TIPS

DETERMINING ‚SLEEVE LENGTH’ WITH ‚ADDITIONAL SHOULDER PADS (OPTION S6, S7 OR S8)

Please take the height of the additional shoulder pads into consideration. EXAMPLE:

The try-on garment has a sleeve length of 63 cm and this is in order. When you order a jacket with an additional shoulder pad, you need to add about 0.8 cm extra sleeve length, you should note 63.8 cm in the field ‚Finished Measurement Sleeve length’. DETERMINING ‚SLEEVE LENGTH’ WITH ‚THINNER SHOULDER PADS’ (OPTION S61)

Please take into account the lower height of these shoulder pads EXAMPLE:

The try-on garment has a sleeve length of 63 cm and this is the total sleevelength in the order. When you order a jacket with Option S61, thinner shoulder pads, you need to reduce around 0.5 cm sleeve length, you should note 62.5 cm in the field ‚Finished Measurement Sleeve length’.

DETERMINING ‚SLEEVE LENGTH’ IN THE CASE OF HEAVILY SLOPING SHOULDERS

If there is a hollow space between the shoulder pads and the shoulders of the customer, due to heavily sloping shoulders, you should position the shoulder pads to the shoulders before determining the sleeve length.

96


Length / Details – Jacket length (hem) V34

If you want to adapt the jacket length and you don’t want the waist level, pocket level, position of highest button and vent height to follow the direction proportionally, you note your adjustment in the field ‚Jacket length (hem) V34’. ATTENTION

If you only fill in the field of ‚Finished Measurement Jacket length’, we will adapt the length with the adjustment ‚Jacket length (hem + waist)V1’. The adjustments ‚Jacket length (hem + waist) V1’ and ‚Jacket length (hem) V34’ can’t be done simultaneoulsy. If you only want to replace the waist level you better use ‚Waist level higher / lower V35’. You need to take into account all adjustments on the back length which have an influence on the jacket length. These adjustments are: ‚Erect posture’, ‚Bent posture’, ‚Round back’ and ‚Pleat under collar’.

The jacket length will be made shorter or longer (by 100% of the found value) at the hem. The waist level, pocket level, position of the highest button and vent height remain unchanged. Picture shows longer.

ORIENTATION VALUES

Light 1 cm / Medium 3 cm / Strong 5 cm The maximal values are to be found in our B2B system and depend on the chosen model. Exception: The jacket length of a jacket with patch pockets can be reduced by 2.5 cm max.

97


TIPS

LONG JACKET

If you create a Long jacket by using the adjustment ‚Jacket length (hem) V34’‚ you also need to add option S82. This way you will receive a straight finishing on the hem in front part; which is typical for a long jacket.

98


Length / Details – Waist level V35 When you want to change the position of the waist level (higher or lower), you note de found value in the field ‚Waist level higher / lower V35’. Changing the position of the waist level has an influence on the proportions of the jacket. You need to take into account all adjustments on the waist level caused by the adjustements ‚Jacket length (hem + waist) V1’, ‚Jacket length (hem) V34’ and all balance adjustements. EXAMPLE:

The client wants a jacket with total length of 80 cm and you note: ‚Jacket length (hem + waist) V1’ +2 cm and ‚Waist level lower V35’ -1 cm. The try-on garment has a total jacket length of 78 cm. You make the jacket 2 cm longer. The waist level, pocket level, position of highest button and vent height will be replaced 1 cm lower. Due to the additional adjustment of the waist level (V35) the waist level, pocket level, position of highest button and vent height will be replaced 1 cm more downwards. This means that finally the waist level, pocket level, position of highest button and vent height will be replaced 2 cm lower in comparaison with the try-on garment. B2B indication: higher - and lower +

The waist level will be put higher or lower (by 100% of the found value). The pocket level, position of the highest button and vent height will follow the direction with 50% of the demanded value. Picture shows lower waist level.

ORIENTATION VALUES

Light 0,5 cm / Medium 2 cm / Strong 4 cm The maximal values are to be found in our B2B system and depend on the chosen model. Exception: The jacket length of a jacket with patch pockets can be reduced by 2.5 cm max.

99


Length / Details – Pocket level V60 When you want to change the position of the pockets (higher or lower), you note the found value in the field ‚Pocket level higher / lower V60’. This is a purely visual / fashion based adjustment. You need to take into account all adjustments on the pocket level caused by the adjustements ‚Jacket length (hem + waist) V1’, ‚Finished Measurement Jacket length’.

EXAMPLE :

The client wants a jacket with total length of 80 cm and you note: ‚Jacket length (hem + waist) V1’ +2 cm and ‚Waist level lower V35’ -1 cm and ‚Pocket level higher V60’ by 1 cm. The try-on garment has a jacket length of 78 cm. You make the jacket 2 cm longer. The waist level, pocket level, position of highest button and vent height will be replaced 1 cm lower. Due to the additional adjustment of the waist level (V35) the waist level, pocket level, position of highest button and vent height will be replaced 1 cm more downwards. Further the pockets and the lowest button will again move 1 cm upwards due to ‚Pocket level 1cm higher’.This means that finally the pocket level, position will only be 1 cm lower in comparaison with the try-on garment. B2B indication: higher - and lower +

The pocket level will be put higher or lower (by 100% of the found value). The lowest button will follow the direction ( by 100% of the demanded value). Picture shows lower pocket level.

ORIENTATION VALUES

Pocket level lower: Light 0,5 cm / Medium 2 cm / Strong 3,5 cm Attention: not possible for a jacket with patch pockets; here maximum is 2.5cm. Pocket level higher: Light 0,5 cm / Medium 2 cm / Strong 3,5 cm The maximal values are to be found in our B2B system and depend on the chosen model.

100


Length / Details – Button level (highest button) V14

When you want to change the position of the highest button (higher or lower), you note the found value in the field ‚Button level higher / lower V14’. You need to take into account all adjustments on the button level caused by the adjustements ‚Jacket length (hem + waist) V1’, ‚Finished Measurement Jacket length’, ‚Waist level V35’ and all balance adjustements. Attention: values you note in these fields will be completely carried out, and not converted. However, if you give the finished measurement of the button level, we will respect this measurement. (See tips) B2B indication: higher + and lower -

The buttontlevel (highest button) will be put higher or lower (by 100% of the found value). The lowest button will follow the direction (by 50% of the demanded value). With a 3- buttons jacket the distance between the highest and lowest button will be divided to calculate the position of the middle button Picture shows higher button level.

ORIENTATION VALUES

Light 1 cm / Medium 2,5 cm / Strong 4 cm The maximal values are to be found in our B2B system and depend on the chosen model.

101


TIPS

VERY STOUT

For these clients we advice a jacket with lower closure, for example a 2 – buttons closure (type 12xx). Jackets with a higher closure, like the 3-buttons closure (type 13xx) or a double breasted closure (type 2xxx), are discouraged, since the vertical edges of front part above the stomach will collapse (cave in).

MOVEMENT OF THE HIGHEST BUTTON WHEN USING ‚BUTTON LEVEL HIGHER / LOWER’

You want a jacket with following adjustments: ‚Erect posture V10’ – 2 cm and ‚Button level lower’ by 1cm. Due to erect posture of 2 cm the highest button will move 1.5 cm downwards. The adjustment of button level 1cm lower will move the button 1cm extra downwards. This means that finally the highest button will move 2.5 cm lower in comparaison with the try-on garment.

MOVEMENT OF THE HIGHEST BUTTON WHEN USING ‚FINISHED MEASURMENT BUTTON LEVEL (CBS – HIGHEST BUTTON)’

You want a jacket with following adjustments: ‚Erect posture V10’ – 2 cm and ‚Finished Measurement Button level’ of 56.7 cm. The try-on garment has a standard button level of 55.7 cm. Due to erect posture of 2 cm the highest button will move 1.5 cm downwards and make the button level = 57.2 cm. Since you want the button level of 56.7, we will replace the highest button again 0.5 cm higher.

COMBINATION OF THE ADJUSMENTS ‚JACKET LENGTH’ AND ‚BUTTON LEVEL (HIGHEST BUTTON)’

The client wants a jacket with a total length of 80 cm and you note: ‚Jacket length (hem + waist) V1’ +2 cm and ‚Button level V14’ 1 cm higher. The try-on garment has a jacket length of 78 cm. You make the jacket 2 cm longer. The waist level, pocket level, position of highest button and vent height will be replaced 1 cm lower. Due to the additional adjustment of the button level (V14) the button will move 1 cm higher. This means that finally the waist level, pocket level, vent height will be 1 cm lower in comparaison with the try-on garment. The button level (highest button) remains unchanged.

102


Length/ Details – Finished Measurement Button level (CBS – highest button)

MEASURE GUIDELINE FOR FINISHED MEASUREMENT BUTTON LEVEL

Measure from center back seam along the neckline (collar) till the shoulder-neck point, and from there on in a straight line till the middle of the highest button. The collar of the jacket has to be in the correct position, meaning against the neck, during measurement.

If you don’t give a value for 'Finished Measurement Button level’, ‚Button level (highest button) V14’ or other adjustments who influence the button level, you will receive the standard finished measurement for button level of the stated jacket size. Other adjustments which influence the position of the highest button: • Jacket length (hem + waist) V1 • Erect figure V10• Bent figure V10+ • Round back V19+ • Pleat under collar V19• Open / Close front panel V24 • Front lenght (Shoulder-neck point)V43 • Waist level higher / lower V35 • ½ Collar diameter (CBS) V23• ½ Collar diameter (Shoulder-neck point) V41

Attention: values you note in these fields will be completely carried out, and not converted. However, if you give the finished measurement of the button level, we will respect this measurement. (See tips)

103


TIPS

VERY STOUT

For these clients we advice a jacket with lower closure, for example a 2-buttons closure (type 12xx). Jackets with a higher closure, like the 3-buttons closure (type 13xx) or a double breasted closure (type 2xxx), are discouraged, since the vertical edges of front part above the stomach will collapse (cave in).

MOVEMENT OF THE HIGHEST BUTTON WHEN USING ‚BUTTON LEVEL HIGHER / LOWER’

You want a jacket with following adjustments: ‚Erect posture V10’ – 2 cm and ‚Button level lower’ by 1cm. Due to erect posture of 2 cm the highest button will move 1.5 cm downwards. The adjustment of button level 1cm lower will move the button 1cm extra downwards. This means that finally the highest button will move 2.5 cm lower in comparaison with the try-on garment.

MOVEMENT OF THE HIGHEST BUTTON WHEN USING ‚FINISHED MEASURMENT BUTTON LEVEL (CBS – HIGHEST BUTTON)’

You want a jacket with following adjustments: ‚Erect posture V10’ –2 cm and ‚Finished Measurement Button level’ of 56.7cm. The try-on garment has a standard button level of 55.7 cm. Due to erect posture of 2 cm the highest button will move 1.5 cm downwards and make the button level = 57.2 cm. Since you want the button level of 56.7, we will replace the highest button again 0.5 cm higher.

104


Length/ Details – Length of vent V16 When you want to change the length of the vent(s), you note de found value in the field ‚Length of vent shorter / longer V16’. Other adjustments which influence the length of vent are: • Jacket length (hem + waist) V1 • Jacket length (hem) V34 • Erect posture V10• Bent figure V10+ • Round back V19+ • Pleat under collar V19• Waist level higher / lower V35 You need to take into account all adjustments on the length of vent caused by the adjustements ‚Jacket length (hem + waist) V1’, ‚Finished Measurement Jacket length’, ‚Waist level V35’ and all balance adjustements. EXAMPLE:

The client wants a jacket with length of 80 cm and you note: ‚Jacket length (hem + waist) V1’ +2 cm and ‚Waist level lower V35’ -1 cm and ‚Length of vent shorter V16’ by 1 cm. You make the jacket 2 cm longer. The waist level, pocket level, position of highest button and vent height will be replaced 1 cm lower. Due to the additional adjustment of the waist level (V35) the waist level, pocket level, position of highest button and vent height will be replaced 1 cm more downwards. Further the length of vent(s) will again move 1 cm upwards due to ‚Length of vent shorter V16’ by 1 cm. This means that finally the waist level, pocket level, position of the 1st button will be 1 cm lower in comparaison with the try-on garment. The vent(s) will become 3cm shorter.

The highest point of the vent will be placed higher or lower (with 100% of the found value); the vent becomes longer or shorter.

ORIENTATION VALUES

Vent longer: Light 1 cm / Medium 2 cm / Strong 3 cm Vent shorter: Light 1 cm / Medium 4 cm / Strong 7 cm The maximal values are to be found in our B2B system and depend on the chosen model.

Length never in combination with : • ½ Waist (BP– sideseams) - (V6-) (with larger values of V6- and V16+)

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Other – Front form V31

The value to make the front form rounder or straighter has to be estimated. In most cases this is a purely fashion / visual based adjustement. B2B indication: rounder - and straighter -

Make sure the jacket is in balance and that the vertical front edges run parallel when you assess the front form. Also take into account the adjustments on frontlength and ½ Overlap. This adjustment is only possible for jackets with a single breasted closure.

The front form will be made rounder or straighter (by 100% of the found value). Picture shows rounder

ORIENTATION VALUES

Light 0,5 cm / Strong 1 cm The maximal values are to be found in our B2B system and depend on the chosen model.

Often in combination with : • Deeper pocketdart (V17)

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Summary: alterations jacket – by code CODE V1 V3 V6 V7 V8 V9 V10V10+ V11V11+ V13 V14 V15 V16 V17V18 V19V19+ V20 V21 V22 V23V24+ V24V25 V26 V27 V28 V30 V31 V32 V34 V35 V36 V39 V41 V43+ V43V48 V59 V60 FM FM FM FM

ALTERATION

CHAPTER

PAGE

Jacket length (hem + waist) ½ Back width ½ Waist (BP - Side seams) ½ Seat (BP & SP - Side seams) ½ Overlap Shoulder width (Shoulder-arm point) Erect figure Bent figure Sloping shoulder Square shoulder Prominent chest Button level (highest button) higher (+) / lower (-) Armhole diameter Length of vent longer (+) / shorter (-) Deeper pocketdart (stout / very stout) ½ Wrist width Pleat under collar Round back ½ Waist & ½ Seat (BP - Side seam) ½ Waist & ½ Seat (SP - Side seam) ½ Waist & ½ Seat (SP - Underarm seam) ½ Collar diameter (CBS) Open Front panel Close Front panel ½ Waist & ½ Seat (CBS) ½ Back width (CBS) ½ Seat (SP - Underarm seam) ½ Waist & ½ Seat (FP & SP - Underarm seams) Depth of armhole higher (+) / deeper (-) Frontform rounder (-) / straighter (+) Sleeve to the front (+) / back (-) Left Jacket length (hem) Waistlevel higher (-) / lower (+) ½ Waist & ½ Seat (CBS Collar - hem) ½ Chest width (armhole) ½ Collar diameter (shoulder-neck point) Front length longer (shoulder-neck point) Front length shorter (shoulder-neck point) ½ Waist (FP - underarm seam) Shoulders to the front Pocket level higher (-) / lower (+) ½ Backwidth Button level (CBS - highest button) Shoulder width Sleeve length

LENGTH CHEST WAIST AND SEAT WAIST AND SEAT WAIST AND SEAT SHOULDERS BALANCE / POSTURE BALANCE / POSTURE SHOULDERS SHOULDERS CHEST LENGTH / DETAILS SLEEVE LENGTH / DETAILS BALANCE / POSTURE SLEEVE BALANCE / POSTURE BALANCE / POSTURE WAIST AND SEAT WAIST AND SEAT WAIST AND SEAT SHOULDERS BALANCE / POSTURE BALANCE / POSTURE WAIST AND SEAT CHEST WAIST AND SEAT WAIST AND SEAT SLEEVE OTHER SLEEVE LENGTH / DETAILS LENGTH / DETAILS WAIST AND SEAT CHEST SHOULDERS BALANCE / POSTURE BALANCE / POSTURE WAIST AND SEAT SHOULDERS LENGTH / DETAILS CHEST LENGTH / DETAILS SHOULDERS LENGTH

92 37 70 86 66 42 14 20 50 52 32 101 56 105 30 58 26 28 74 76 78 48 16 22 72 38 88 80 59 106 61 97 99 82 34 44 18 24 68 54 100 40 103 46 95

107


FM FM

Jacket length 1/2 Jacket width

LENGTH WAIST AND SEAT

94 84

108


Summary: alterations jacket – by chapter CHAPTER

CODE

ALTERATION

PAGE

BALANCE / POSTURE

V10V10+ V17V19V19+ V24V24+ V43V43+ FM V3 V13 V26 V39 FM FM FM V1

Erect figure

14

Bent figure

20

Deeper pocketdart (stout / very stout)

30

Pleat under collar

26

Round back

28

Close Front panel

22

Open Front panel

16

Front lenght shorter (shoulder-neck point)

24

Front lenght longer (shoulder-neck point)

18

½ Back width

40

½ Back width

37

Prominent chest

32

BALANCE / POSTURE BALANCE / POSTURE BALANCE / POSTURE BALANCE / POSTURE BALANCE / POSTURE BALANCE / POSTURE BALANCE / POSTURE BALANCE / POSTURE CHEST CHEST CHEST CHEST CHEST LENGTH LENGTH LENGTH LENGTH LENGTH / DETAILS LENGTH / DETAILS LENGTH / DETAILS LENGTH / DETAILS LENGTH / DETAILS OTHER SHOULDERS SHOULDERS SHOULDERS SHOULDERS SHOULDERS SHOULDERS SHOULDERS SLEEVE SLEEVE SLEEVE SLEEVE WAIST AND SEAT WAIST AND SEAT WAIST AND SEAT WAIST AND SEAT WAIST AND SEAT WAIST AND SEAT WAIST AND SEAT

V14 V16 V34 V35 V60 V31 FM V9 V11V11+ V23V41 V59 V15 V18 V30 V32 FM V6 V7 V8 V20 V21 V22

½ Back width (CBS)

38

½ Chest width (armhole)

34

Button level (CBS - highest button)

103

Sleeve length

95

Jacket length

94

Jacket length (hem + waist) 92 Button level (highest button) higher (+) / lower () 101 Length of vent longer (+) / shorter (-)

105

Jacket length (hem)

97

Waist level higher (-) / lower (+)

99

Pocket level higher (-) / lower (+)

100

Frontform rounder (-) / straighter (+)

106

Shoulder width

46

Shoulder width (Shoulder-arm point)

42

Sloping shoulder

50

Square shoulder

52

½ Collar diameter (CBS)

48

½ Collar diameter (shoulder-neck point)

44

Shoulders to the front

54

Armhole diameter

56

½ Wrist width

58

Depth of Armhole higher (+) / deeper (-)

59

Sleeve to the front (+) / back (-) Left

61

1/2 Jacket width

84

½ Waist (BP-Side seams)

70

½ Seat (BP & SP – Side seams)

86

½ Overlap

66

½ Waist & ½ Seat (BP-Side seam)

74

½ Waist & ½ Seat (SP-Side seam)

76

½ Waist & ½ Seat (SP-Underarm seam)

78

109


WAIST AND SEAT WAIST AND SEAT WAIST AND SEAT WAIST AND SEAT WAIST AND SEAT

V25 V27 V28 V36 V48

½ Waist & ½ Seat (CBS)

72

½ Seat (SP-Underarm seam)

88

½ Waist & ½ Seat (FP & SP-Underarm seams)

80

½ Waist & ½ Seat (CBS Collar - hem)

82

½ Waist (FP – underarm seam)

68

110


Summary: alterations jacket – schematic diagram.

111


THE TROUSERS SEAT

It is important to choose the model and size so that it fits the hips as well as possible. Note the selected model and size in the ‘Trouser Base’ and ‘Size’ fields.

BALANCE

Before you proceed with the measurements, you should verify that the trousers are in balance. If necessary, you should bring the trousers into balance by adjusting the rise to the back and / or front (you will find detailed explanations in the corresponding sections). Any further measurements are determined on trousers being in balance - this means that the pins, with which the excess rise is pinned up, should be removed only when the measurements are completed. RISE

You must first assess whether the rise of the trousers fits the customer appropriately. Rise = Outseam – Inseam To evaluate this, bring the waistband into the position that fits your customer well. Verify or ask the customer whether the trousers fits well in the crotch. You now have several possibilities: • The rise is correct. You are able to determine the possible measurement alterations and finished measurements. To specify the trousers length, it’s best to measure the inseam, since it is easier to do and it gives a more precise result than measuring the outseam. • The rise is incorrect, i.e. you must first determine the new rise (there are numerous methods available; detailed explanation in the section on’Rise (all around)P1’ or ‚Finished Measurement Inseam’) before determining further measurement alterations and finished measurements. In the case of tight trousers with a short rise, the trousers often sits very high in the crotch. In this case it does make sense to have the customer sit down and determine if the short rise is still comfortable

WAIST MEASUREMENT

To take the waist measurement, the customer sets the waistband at a level that is comfortable for him.

112


Rise • Introduction Several adjustments have an influence on the Rise / balance of the trousers. You can decide where the rise should be adapted. You have 2 possibilities:

Back rise – Seat level close / open P15

Back rise – waistband level P6

You have 2 possibilities to adapt the rise:

Front rise (max. 1.5 cm) P5

Front rise (more than 1.5 cm) P21

To adapt the rise all around you can use the following adjustment:

Rise (all around) P1

To adapt the outseam on 1side you can use the following adjustment:

Hip higher on 1 side P28

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When changing the rise, please fill in the fields ‚Finished Measurement Outseam excl. Waistband’ and ‚Finished Measurement Inseam’. You keep in mind all adjustments that influence the rise. EXAMPLE : The trial trousers has outseam = 103.7cm and inseam = 82cm. This means that the rise = 103.7cm – 82cm = 21.7cm. You want to lower the rise all around with 1 cm and aditionally the rise front with 0.5 cm extra. The new rise becomes: 102.7 cm – 82 cm = 20.7 cm. You note: P1 –1; P5 –0.5; Finished Measurement Outseam 102.7 cm; Finished Measurement Inseam 82 cm. If the demanded changes don’t correspond to the registered finished measurements, we will only take into account the finished measurement. This base principle applies on all finished measurements you register. If you don’t register finished measurements, we presume that you don’t need any changes and therefore want the standard measurement of rise, out- and inseam of the stated trousers size.

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Rise • Back rise – seat level open / close P15

OPEN BACK RISE AT SEAT LEVEL (+) / STRONG SEAT

CLOSE BACK RISE AT SEAT LEVEL (-) / FLAT SEAT

The trousers sticks on the front on the thighs. The thigh area of the trousers on the front seems too narrow, freedom of movement is limited. Diagonal pleats form from the upper trousers back to the kneelevel on the front. The side seam at the thigh level pulls to the rear. The trousers are not in balance. In this case, the trousers back is too short over the seat; therefore, the seat seam and with it, the back rise, must be lengthened.

The trousers back has too much length over the seat. This extra length is visible in the rear of the thighs (below the seat). Diagonal pleats form from the upper trousers front to the lower trousers back. The side seam at the thigh level pulls forward. The trousers are not in balance. In this case, the trousers back is too long over the seat; therefore, the seat seam and with it, the back rise, must be shortened.

Provide the value for the increase of the back rise in centimeters. Give an estimated or experience-based value here.

To reduce the rise, you can pin back the excess material on the seat horizontally into a pleat. Please measure the pleat content and provide the resulting amount in cm as the value for the reduction of the back rise. With larger values, make sure that the seat seam is not too short (uncomfortable, the trouser back can pull in the seat).

The back part is cut horizontally at seat height from center back till outseam and then opened or closed by 100% of the found value. In doing so the back part will become straighter or more slanted. Picture shows close back rise.

ORIENTATION VALUES

Light 0.5 cm / Medium 1.2 cm / Strong 2 cm The maximal values are to be found in our B2B system and depend on the chosen model. Open often in combination with: • ½ Seat + (P16+) (with large values) Open rarely in combination with: • ½ Seat - (P16-)

Close often in combination with: • ½ Seat - (P16-) • Erect posture (V10-) • S-Figure

Open possible in combination with: • Front rise - (P5- or P21-) • Back rise – waistband level + (P6+)

Close possible in combination with: • Front rise + (P5+ or P21+) • Back rise - waistband level - (P6-)

Open never in combination with: • Front rise + (P5+ or P21+)

Close never in combination with: • Front rise - (P5- or P21-)

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TIPS

EXCEEDING MAXIMUM VALUE OF ‚BACK RISE – SEAT LEVEL OPEN / CLOSE’

If the adjustment of the back rise exceeds the accepted maximum value, you can use supplementary to P15 the adjustment ‚Back rise – waistband level P6’.

WITH BIG VALUE / PROBLEMS WITH BALANCE, IT IS ADVISABLE TO COMBINE THE ADJUSTMENTS ‚BACK RISE’ WITH ‚FRONT RISE’

• Combination of back rise - and front rise +: The try-on garment has too much length over the buttocks and not enough length in the front. The pleat content of the horizontal pleat on the buttocks amounts to 2.5 cm. You can split this value between the ‘back rise -’ and ‘front rise +’ fields. You note for example: ‚Close Back rise - seat level P15 -1.5 cm’ and ‚Front rise P5 +1 cm.. • Combination of back rise + and front rise -: • The try-on garment has not enough length over the buttock and too much length in front. The front pleat content = 3 cm. When this value is pinned away the trousers is in balance. You note for example: ‚Open Back rise - seat level P15 +1.5cm’ with ‚Front rise P5 –1.5cm’ • The try-on garment has not enough length over the buttock and too much length in front. The front pleat content = 1 cm. When this value is pinned away the trousers is still not in balance, the back rise has to be lengthened. The value for the increase of back rise is an estimated value You note for example: ‚Open Back rise - seat level P15 +1.5cm’ with ‚Front rise P5 –1cm’ SEAT SEAM IS TOO SHORT

With a large reduction in the back rise you should make sure that the seat seam is not too short (uncomfortable, the trouser can pull in the buttocks). To lengthen the seat seam once again, you can apply the adjustments ‘Rise (all around) P1 +’ or ‘Crotch BP P10 +’, according to the figure type of your customer. You can also split the pleat content, where appropriate, between the fields ‘Close Back rise – seat level P15-‚ and ‘Front rise P5+’ (see tip above). EXAMPLE:

The length of the seat seam on the try-on garment is correct (comfortable for the customer). To bring the trousers into balance, reduce the back rise by 2cm. By doing so, the seat seam will become too short for your customer, the trouser rear will pull in the buttocks and the crotch will be too high. There are various ways to lengthen the seat seam: • ‚Rise (all around) P1’+1 cm (in this case, both the seat seam and the front rise will be lengthened). • Or ‚Crotch BP P10’ +2 cm • Or ‚Rise (all around) P1’ +0.5 cm and ‚Crotch BP P10’ +1 cm (in this case, both the seat seam and the front rise will be lengthened)). • Or apply the method from previous tip

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Rise • Back rise – waistband level P6

This adjustment is used in case of large values, or to complete adjustment ‚Back rise – seat level open / close P15’. In case of a flat buttocks the trousers is to long over the buttocks, and therefore the back rise must be lowered. If the maximal value of the adjustement ‚Close Back rise – seat level P15-’ is exceeded, you can supplementary use the adjustment ‚Back rise – waistband level P6-‚. In case of a round buttocks the trousers is to short over the buttock, and therefore the back rise must be lengthened. If the maximal value of the adjustement ‚Open Back rise –seat level P15+’ is exceeded, you can supplementary use the adjustment ‚Back rise – waistband level P6+‚.

You can find directives to shorten or lengthen the back rise at adjustment ‚Back rise – seat level open / close P15’.

The back rise will be made higher or lower by 100% of the found value, under the band in center back. This adjustment ends on the side seam. Picture shows lower back rise.

ORIENTATION VALUES

Light 0.5 cm / Medium 1.2 cm / Strong 2 cm The maximal values are to be found in our B2B system and depend on the chosen model.

Increase possible in combination with : • Open back rise - seat level + (P15+)

Reduction possible in combination with: • Close backrise – seat level (P15-)

Increase never in combination with: • Front rise + (P5+ or P21

Reduction never in combination with: • Front rise - (P5- or P21-)

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TIPS BACK RISE

If a diagonal pleat forms directly below the rear waistband, verify the waist and seat measurement. In the case of a to small waist or hip measurement, a tension pleat can appear.

WITH BIG VALUE / PROBLEMS WITH BALANCE, IT IS ADVISABLE TO COMBINE THE ADJUSTMENTS ‚BACK RISE’ WITH ‚FRONT RISE’

• Combination of back rise - and front rise +: The try-on garment has too much length over the buttocks and not enough length in the front. The pleat content of the horizontal pleat on the buttocks amounts to 2.5 cm. You can split this value between the back rise -’ and ‘front rise +’ fields. You note for example: ‚Close Back rise - seat level P15 -1.5 cm’ and ‚Front rise P5 +1 cm.. • Combination of back rise + and front rise -: • The try-on garment has not enough length over the buttocks and too much length in front. The front pleat content = 3 cm. When this value is pinned away the trousers is in balance. You note for example: ‚Open Back rise - seat level P15 +1.5cm’ with ‚Front rise P5 –1.5cm’ • The try-on garment has not enough length over the buttocsk and too much length in front. The front pleat content = 1 cm. When this value is pinned away the trousers is still not in balance, the back rise has to be lengthened. The value for the increase of back rise is an estimated value. You note for example: ‚Open Back rise - seat level P15 +1.5cm’ with ‚Front rise P5 –1cm’

SEAT SEAM IS TOO SHORT

With a large reduction in the back rise you should make sure that the seat seam is not too short (uncomfortable, the trousers can pull in the buttocks). To lengthen the seat seam once again, you can apply the adjustments ‘Rise (all around) P1 +’ or ‘Crotch BP P10 +’, according to the figure type of your customer. You can also split the pleat content, where appropriate, between the fields ‘Close Back rise – seat level P15-‚ and ‘Front rise P5+’ (see tip above). EXAMPLE:

The length of the seat seam on the try-on garment is correct (comfortable for the customer). To bring the trousers into balance, reduce the back rise by 2cm. By doing so, the seat seam will become too short for your customer, the trousers rear will pull in the buttocks and the crotch will be too high. There are various ways to lengthen the seat seam: • ‚Rise (all around) P1’+1 cm (in this case, both the seat seam and the front rise will be lengthened). • Or ‚Crotch BP P10’ +2 cm • Or ‚Rise (all around) P1’ +0.5 cm and ‚Crotch BP P10’ +1 cm (in this case, both the seat seam and the front rise will be lengthened)). • Or apply the method from previous tip

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Rise • Front rise (max. 1.5 cm) P5

INCREASE FRONT RISE (+) (MAX 1.5CM)

REDUCE FRONT RISE (-)(MAX 1.5CM)

The customer pulls the trousers front up. He wears trousers over his stomach using suspenders, for example. The side seam at the thigh level may pull forward. In this case, the trousers misses length in the front below the waist, the front rise has to be increased

The customer pushes the trousers front down due to a forward-leaning waist. Pleats form in the front below the waistband. The side seam at thigh level might pull towards the back. In this case, the trousers front is too long below the waistband. Waistband pleats, insofar as is applicable, jump out.

If the front rise needs to be increased, measure the distance from the upper edge of the band in the front centre to the desired position of the band. Please provide the amount in centimetres. If this value exceeds 1.5 cm, you have to use the adjustment ‚Front rise (more than 1.5cm) P21’.

You can obtain the amount for a reduction of the front rise by lifting the excess of front rise and fixing in a pleat. Please measure the pleat content and provide the amount in centimetres. If this value exceeds 1.5 cm, you have to use the adjustment ‚Front rise (more than 1.5cm) P21’.

The front rise will be made higher or lower by 100% of the found value, under the band in middle front. This adjustments ends on the side seam. Picture shows lower front rise.

ORIENTATION VALUES

Light 0,5 cm / Medium 1 cm / Strong 2 cm The maximal values are to be found in our B2B system and depend on the chosen model. Increase often in combination with: • Stout and very stout (if the customer wears trousers above the stomach, in this case possible in combination with rise all around)+ (P1+) Increase possible in combination with: • Close back rise – seat level - (P15- or P6-) Increase never in combination with: • Open back rise – seat level + (P15+ or P6+)

• Front rise (more than 1.5cm)+ (P21+) • Front rise (more than 1.5cm)- (P21-)

Reduction often in combination with: • Stout (if the customer wears trousers under the stomach) Reduction possible in combination with: • Open back rise – seat level + (P15+ oder P6+) Reduction rarely in combination with: • Close back rise – seat level - (P15-) Reduction never in combination with: • Back rise - (P6-) • Front rise (more than 1.5cm)- (P21-) • Front rise (more than 1.5cm)+ (P21+)

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TIPS

INFLUENCE ON THE RISE (ALL AROUND) WHEN ALTERING THE FRONT RISE

An alteration of the ‚Front rise (max 1.5cm) P5’, runs up to the side seam, and therefore there’s no change in the total rise. An alteration of the ‚Front rise (more than 1.5cm) P21’ runs up to the center back to ensure a nice flow of the waistline with larger values. Here the side seam will be shortened or lengthened at the top with 50% of the found value, and alters hereby the rise (all around). EXAMPLE 1 :

The try-on garment has a standard measurement of 104 cm outseam and a inseam of 82 cm. These are also the values that you note in the order form.You reduce the front rise by 1.5 cm (P5-). The rise all around does not change here. EXAMPLE 2 :

The try-on garment has a standard measurement of 104 cm outseam and a inseam of 82 cm. These are also the values that you note in the order form. You reduce the front rise by 3 cm (P21-). Automatically the outseam will be shortened with 1.5 cm (= 50%). Therefore you obtain a outseam of 102.5 cm. Since you wish to have a outseam of 104 cm and a inseam of 82 cm, we will add 1.5 cm rise all around. If you would like to avoid this, do not enter a value for outseam, or enter the new found outseam ( =102.5 cm). WITH BIG VALUE/PROBLEMS WITH BALANCE, IT IS ADVISABLE TO COMBINE THE ADJUSTMENTS ‚BACK RISE’ WITH ‚FRONT RISE’

• Combination of back rise - and front rise +: The try-on garment has too much length over the buttocks and not enough length in the front. The pleat content of the horizontal pleat on the buttocks amounts to 2.5 cm. You can split this value between the ‘back rise -’ and ‘front rise +’ fields. You note for example: ‚Close Back rise - seat level P15 -1.5 cm’ and ‚Front rise P5 +1 cm.. • Combination of back rise + and front rise -: • The try-on garment has not enough length over the buttock and too much length in front. The front pleat content = 3 cm. When this value is pinned away the trousers is in balance. You note for example: ‚Open Back rise - seat level P15 +1.5cm’ with ‚Front rise P5 –1.5cm’ • The try-on garment has not enough length over the buttock and too much length in front. The front pleat content = 1 cm. When this value is pinned away the trousers is still not in balance, the back rise has to be lengthened. The value for the increase of back rise is an estimated value You note for example: ‚Open Back rise - seat level P15 +1.5cm’ with ‚Front rise P5 –1cm’

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Rise • Front rise (more than 1.5cm) P21

INCREASE FRONT RISE (+) (MORE THAN 1.5CM)

REDUCE FRONT RISE (-) (MORE THAN 1.5CM)

The customer pulls the trousers very high front up. He wears trousers over his stomach using suspenders, for example. The side seam at the thigh level may pull forward. In this case, the trousers misses length in the front below the waist, the front rise has to be increased

The customer pushes the trousers front rather down due to a forward-leaning waist. Pleats form in the front below the waistband. The side seam at thigh level might pull towards the back. In this case, the trousers front is too long below the waistband. Waistband pleats, insofar as is applicable, jump out.

If the front rise needs to be increased, measure the distance from the upper edge of the band in the front centre to the desired position of the band. Please provide the amount in centimetres. If this value is equal or smaller than 1.5 cm, you have to use the adjustment ‚Front rise (max. 1.5cm) P5+’.

You can obtain the amount for a reduction of the Front rise by lifting the excess of front rise and fixing in a pleat. Please measure the pleat content and provide the amount in centimetres. If this value exceeds 1.5 cm, you have to use ‚Front rise (more than 1.5 cm) P21’. If this value is equal or smaller than 1.5 cm, you have to use ‚Front rise (max. 1.5cm) P5+’ The front rise will be made higher or lower by 100% of the found value, under the band in middle front. This adjustement ends on center back seam and alters also the sideseam by 50% of the found value. Picture shows lower front rise.

ORIENTATION VALUES

Increase front rise: Light 1 cm / Medium 2 cm / Strong 4 cm Reduce front rise: Light 1 cm / Medium 2.5 cm / Strong 5 cm The maximal values are to be found in our B2B system and depend on the chosen model. Increase often in combination with: • Stout and very stout (the customer wears trousers above the stomach, in this case possible in combination with rise all around + (P1+))

Reduction often in combination with: • Stout (if the customer wears trousers under the stomach)

Increase possible in combination with: • Close back rise - seat level - (P15- or P6-)

Reduction rarely in combination with: • Close back rise – seat level - (P15-)

Increase never in combination with: • Open back rise - seat level+ (P15+ or P6+) • Front rise (max 1.5cm) + (P5+) • Front rise (max 1.5cm) - (P5-)

Reduction never in combination with: • Back rise - ( P6-) • Front rise (max 1.5cm) - (P5-) • Front rise (max 1.5cm) + (P5+)

Reduction possible in combination with: • Open back rise - seat level + (P15+ or P6+)

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TIPS

INFLUENCE ON THE RISE (ALL AROUND) WHEN ALTERING THE FRONT RISE

An alteration of the ‚Front rise (max 1.5cm) P5’, runs up to the side seam, and therefore there’s no change in the total rise. An alteration of the ‚Front rise (more than 1.5cm) P21’ runs up to the center back to ensure a nice flow of the waistline with larger values. Here the side seam will be shortened or lengthened at the top with 50% of the found value, and alters hereby the rise (all around). EXAMPLE 1 :

The try-on garment has a standard measurement of 104 cm outseam and a inseam of 82 cm. You reduce the front rise by 1.5 cm (P5-). The rise all around does not change here. EXAMPLE 2 : The try-on garment has a standard measurement of 104 cm outseam and a inseam of 82 cm. These are also the values that you note in the order form. You reduce the front rise by 3 cm (P21-). Automatically the outseam will be shortened with 1.5 cm (= 50%). Therefore you obtain a outseam of 102.5 cm. Since you wish to have a outseam of 104 cm and a inseam of 82 cm, we will add 1.5 cm rise all around. If you would like to avoid this, do not enter a value for outseam, or enter the new found outseam ( =102.5 cm).

WITH BIG VALUE / PROBLEMS WITH BALANCE, IT IS ADVISABLE TO COMBINE THE ADJUSTMENTS ‚BACK RISE’ WITH ‚FRONT RISE’

• Combination of back rise - and front rise +: The try-on garment has too much length over the buttocks and not enough length in the front. The pleat content of the horizontal pleat on the buttocks amounts to 2.5 cm. You can split this value between the ‘back rise -’ and ‘front rise +’ fields. You note for example: ‚Close Back rise - seat level P15 -1.5 cm’ and ‚Front rise P5 +1 cm.. • Combination of back rise + and front rise -: • The try-on garment has not enough length over the buttocks and too much length in front. The front pleat content = 3 cm. When this value is pinned away the trousers is in balance. You note for example: ‚Open Back rise - seat level P15 +1.5cm’ with ‚Front rise P5 –1.5cm’ • The try-on garment has not enough length over the buttocks and too much length in front. The front pleat content = 1 cm. When this value is pinned away the trousers is still not in balance, the back rise has to be lengthened. The value for the increase of back rise is an estimated value. You note for example: ‚Open Back rise - seat level P15 +1.5cm’ with ‚Front rise P5 –1cm’

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Rise • Rise (all around) P1

The rise is the difference between outseam and inseam. Depending upon personal habit, the customer may favour a rise that differs from the base model, he wears the waistband in a specific position (at a specific length). Should the customer not feel comfortable with the standard rise, in a first step bring the waistband to the correct position that corresponds to the customer’s preference. He wears trousers higher or pushes them somewhat deeper. Now measure the distance from the waistband seam along the side seam down to the floor and note the value. Then the customer positions the trousers in such a way that they are comfortable in the crotch. Now measure the distance from the waistband along the side seam down to the floor once again. The difference between the two measured distances is the amount for the alteration of the rise (all around) P1. EXAMPLE:

The customer pushes the entire waistband down, according to his personal preference. You measure a distance of 100 cm from under the waistband to the floor. The customer then pulls the trousers up high, so that they fit ideally in the crotch. Upon measuring the distance once more, you obtain a value of 101 cm. Therefore, the difference is 1 cm, the rise must be reduced by 1 cm. Please note: ‚Rise (all around) P1’- 1 cm. Do not forget to enter the inseam to determine the trouser length. To specify the rise, you can also use the ‘inseam’ and ‘outseam’ fields (see descriptions).

The rise all around will be made parallel higher or lower by 100% of the found value. Picture shows lower front rise.

ORIENTATION VALUES

Light 1 cm / Medium 3 cm / Strong 6 cm The maximal values are to be found in our B2B system and depend on the chosen model. Increase often in combination with: • Stout and very stout (the customer wears trousers above the stomach, in this case possible in combination with front rise + (P5+ or P21+))

Reduction often in combination with: • Stout and very stout ((the customer wears trousers under the stomach, in this case possible in combination with front rise (P5- or P21-)) Reduction rarely in combination with: • Front rise (more than 1.5cm)- (P21-)

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Rise • Hip higher on 1 side P28+

Diagonal pleats form as a result of higher or more pronounced hips, since the outseam is pulled up.

Measure the distance from under the waistband along the side seam down to the floor on both sides. You will obtain differing results on the left and right. The difference between the two measured distances is the amount for ‘Hip higher on 1 side P28’ field. Please provide us with the value in centimeters for the high hip for the corresponding side; left or right.

The front- and backpart (left or right) are cut diagonally at seatheight from outseam till waistline in center front and back, and then opened or closed by 100% of the found value. Picture shows right side hip higher.

ORIENTATION VALUES

Light 0.5 cm / Medium 1 cm / Strong 2 cm The maximal values are to be found in our B2B system and depend on the chosen model.

Please take the adjustment hips higher on one side into account when determining the length on outseam. To determine the rise, take the shortest outseam as reference.

Never in combination with: • Front rise (more than 1.5 cm) + (P21+) with larger values • Front rise (more than 1.5 cm) - (P21-) with larger values • Front rise (max. 1.5 cm) - (P5-) with larger values

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TIPS

DIFFERENT INSEAMS

Differing outseams are generally due to hip on 1 side higher. Differing inseams are an extremely rare occurrence. In such cases, the customer has 2 different leg lengths and therefore normally wears orthopedic shoes.

125


Rise • Finished Measurement Outseam excl. Waistband

outseam

OUTSEAM MEASURING INSTRUCTIONS

The outseam will be measured from the waistband seam to the hem. It is easiest to determine the outseam by laying the trousers sideways flat on the table.

To determine the trouser length, it is indeed best to measure the inseam, since it will be easier and a more precise measurement than the outseam. When determining the outseam, alterations as ‚Rise (all around) P1’, ‘Hip higher on one side P28’ as well as ‚Front rise (more than 1.5cm) P21’ must be taken into account.

Please provide us with the desired outseam (left and right) in centimetres as a finished measurement.

THE OUTSEAM IS TOO SHORT

THE OUTSEAM IS TOO LONG

If the trousers are too short, measure the outseam and add the missing amount to the trousers length (= out- and inseam).

If the trousers are too long, measure the outseam once you have the correct inseam marked.

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Rise Finished Measurement Inseam

Inseam

INSEAM MEASURING INSTRUCTIONS

The inseam will be measured from the highest point (= crotch) to the hem. It is easiest to determine the inseam by laying the trousers sideways flat on the table, ‘throw’ the top-lying leg away and measure the inseam along the seam of the now visible trouser leg.

To determine the trousers length, it is best to measure the inseam, since it will be easier and will give a more precise measurements than the side length. The trousers length depends on the bottom width. On a classic trousers this will end at the heel. If the rise of the trousers is correct, give us only the inseam. You do not necessarily need to enter the side length, we can derive it from the inseam. If you would like to alter the rise, you can enter that into the order form using the inseam and side length fields. In the ‘Alter Rise’ tip, we describe two methods to enter a rise alteration.

THE INSEAM IS TOO SHORT

THE INSEAM IS TOO LONG

It is important that the customer wears the trousers in the correct position in the crotch. In the process, it is not mandatory to have the waistband at the correct level. The trousers should be in balance. Measure the difference between the actual inseam on trouser and the desired inseam. Add the measured amount to the inseam of the try-on trousers and provide us with the desired inseam in cm as a finished measurement.

It is important that you mark the desired trousers length at the hem while the customer is wearing the trousers at the correct position in the crotch. In the process, it is not mandatory to have the waistband at the correct level. The trousers should be in balance when you mark them. Please measure the length of the marked inseam after the customer has removed the trousers.

EXAMPLE 1:

The try-on garment has an inseam of 80 cm. The trousers’s hem is pinned up on the left and right legs by about 2 cm. Please note: The Finished Measurement Inseam = 78 cm. EXAMPLE 2:

The try-on garment has an inseam of 80 cm and a side length of 102 cm. To determine the inseam you have pinned the trousers’s hem up by 2 cm. The right hip is 1cm higher. Please note: Inseam = 78 cm, Outseam left = 100 cm and the Outseam right = 101 cm. EXAMPLE 3:

The try-on garment has a side length of 100 cm and an inseam of 80 cm. Since the customer wears the waistband very high, you have determined an increase of rise all around of 2 cm. To determine the inseam, you have pinned up the trouser hem on the left and right legs by 1cm each. Please note: Inseam = 79cm and Outseam left and right = 101 cm .

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ALTER RISE

The rise is not correct, therefore you must first determine the new rise. There are several methods for doing this – two possibilities are described here. FIRST METHOD

Bring first the waistband in the correct position. Now measure the distance from the waistband seam along the outseam down to the floor and note the value. Then the customer positions the trousers such that they are comfortable in the crotch. Now measure the distance from the crotch along the inseam to the floor. The difference between these two values is the new rise. New rise = outseam to the floor - inseam to the floor (To determine the rise, we measure to the floor, as this is more precise.) To determine the outseam length, now measure the inseam, since the crotch is in the correct position. (Here, you of course do not measure to the floor.) Note the inseam and calculate the outseam using the following formula: Outseam = inseam + new rise. EXAMPLE:

The customer pushes the entire waistband down, according to his personal preference. You measure a distance of 100 cm from the waistband, along the outseam, to the floor. The customer then pulls the trousers up higher, so it fits ideally in the crotch. You measure the inseam down to the floor at 81 cm. The new rise comes to 100 cm - 81 cm = 19 cm, the standard measurement in the table is 21 cm. You measure the desired inseam at 78 cm. Therefore, the side length to be provided, following the above mentioned formula, amounts to 97 cm (97 cm = 78 cm + 19 cm). SECOND METHOD:

Instead of calculating the outseam, you can also enter the ‚Finished Measurement Inseam’ in combination with the alteration of ‘rise (all-round)’ P1 or the Finished Measurement Outseam in combination with the alteration of ‘rise (all around)’ P1 (see description for rise (all around) P1) . For the above mentioned example, the entry here would be: Inseam 78 cm and rise (all-round ) P1- 2 cm or Finished Measurements Outseam 97 cm and alteration rise (all around) P1 - 2 cm

OPEN TROUSER HEM

If you are unsure of the inseam or outseam length, because the customer for example is not wearing “proper“ shoes, you have the possibility of ordering an open trouser hem, which you can then have finished on-site after the fitting. To avoid a situation in which the knee level is in the incorrect position, and that the fabric reserve to prepare the trouser hem is too short or extremely too long, it does make sense to enter an estimated value for the inseam.

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Waistband • Introduction You can decide where the waistband should be adapted. You have 2 possibilities:

½ Waistband P3

½ Waistband on front P27

To adapt ½ Waistband together with ½ Seat you can use the following adjustment:

½ Waist + ½ Seat P14

When changing ½ waistband, please fill in the ‚Finished Measurement ½ Waistband’. Keep in mind all adjustments that influence ½ waistband. EXAMPLE :

The try-on garment has ½ waistband = 44 cm. You want to add 2 cm extra on ½ waistband, of which 1cm in middle front en 1 cm over the other seams. The desired ‚Finished Measurement ½ Waistband’ becomes 44 cm + 2 cm = 46 cm . You note: P27 +1 ; P3 +1 ; Finished Measurement ½ Waistband = 46 cm. If you note a finished measurement for ½ waistband, we will respect this finished measurement. If this finished measurement doesn’t correspond with the demanded adjustment(s) we will use the given adjustment as a guideline for the division of ½ waistband, but always by respecting the demanded finished measurement. This is the basic rule for all demanded finished measurements. If you don’t give any adjustments or a value for ‚½ Waistband’, you will receive the standard finished measurement for ½ waistband of the stated trousers size.

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Waistband • ½ Waistband P3 ½ Waistband

INCREASE ½ WAISTBAND MEASUREMENT

REDUCE ½ WAISTBAND MEASUREMENT

The button is fastened with difficulty or not at all. The customer feels restricted with the waist button fastened. A tension pleat can form directly below the waistband. When determining the ½ waist measurement, it is important that the customer wears the waist band at a level that is comfortable for him.

The trousers do not stay in the desired position. They fit too loose in the waistband area and slip.

If the waist band is too tight, ask the customer to unfasten the button and “slide” the waistband far enough apart so that it is comfortable for him. Now measure over the gap that has formed the distance from the middle of the button to the corresponding buttonhole. Add half of this value to the original ½ waist measurement.

Have the customer bring the trousers into the correct wear position and appropriately pin down the excess in the rear centre at the waistband. Measure the content of the pinned pleat and subtract half of the value from the original ½ waist measurement. Please provide us with the desired ½ waist measurement in centimeters as the finished measurement.

EXAMPLE:

The try-on garment has a ½ waistband of 44 cm. You measure 2 cm between the middle of the button and the buttonhole. The desired finished measurement of the ½ waistband then amounts to: 44 cm + 2/2 cm = 45 cm Please note: P3 +1 and FM ½ waistband = 45 cm

EXAMPLE:

The try-on garment has a ½ waistband of 44 cm. The pinned pleat content comes to 2 cm. The new ½ waistband then amounts to: 44 cm - 2/2 cm = 43 cm Please note: P3 –1 and FM ½ waistband = 43 cm

The front- and back part at waistheight will be made larger or smaller by 75% of the found value on the sideseam and by 25% of the found value on the middle front. Picture shows larger.

ORIENTATION VALUES

Light 1 cm / Medium 2 cm / Strong 4 cm The maximal values are to be found in our B2B system and depend on the chosen model. Enlarge possible in combination with: • ½ Waistband on front + (P27+) • ½ Waistband & ½ Seat + (P14+)

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Waistband • ½ Waistband on front P27 If your customer is stout and you need extra waistband, you can combine the adjustments ‚½ Waistband on front P27+’ and ‚½ Waistband P3+’ , or just use adjustment ‚½ Waistband on front P27+’. EXAMPLE :

The try-on garment has ½ waistband of 48 cm. You measure 4 cm between the middle of the button and the buttonhole. The client is very stout and also needs some extra on the waistband in middle front. Please note: P27 +1; P3 +1 and Finished Measurement ½ Waistband = 50 cm

You can find the guidelines to make ½ Waistband smaller or wider under ‚ ½ Waistband P3’.

The frontpart at waistheight will be made larger or smaller by 100% of the found value on the middle front. Picture shows larger.

ORIENTATION VALUES

Light 0,5 cm / Strong 1 cm The maximal values are to be found in our B2B system and depend on the chosen model.

Enlarge possible in combination with: • ½ Waistband + (P3+) • ½ Waistband & ½ Seat + (P14+)

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VERY STOUT

For customers with very stout figure we advice to choose the short sizes (ex. Size 25.5 – 26.5- ...) or the Stout sizes (ex. Size 47 – 49 – 51 - ...). Attention : Not all models exist in stout sizes.

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Waist measurement • ½ Waist & ½ Seat P14

You can use this alteration when you need to adapt the ½ Waistband together with the ½ Seat. EXAMPLE :

The try-on garment has ½ waistband of 44 cm and is too large on waist and seat height. The Crotch diameter is OK for the client. The pinned away value on waist and seatheight is 1 cm. Please note: P14 –1 and Finished Measurement ½ waistband = 43 cm

You can find the guidelines to change only ½ Waistband, smaller or wider, under ‚½ Waistband P3’. You can find the guidelines to change only ½ Seat, smaller or wider, under ‚Center back seam P13’.

The backpart at waist- and seatheight will be made larger or smaller by 100% of the found value on the middle back seam. Picture shows smaller.

ORIENTATION VALUES

Light 0,5 cm / Strong 1 cm The maximal values are to be found in our B2B system and depend on the chosen model.

Enlarge often in combination with: • Crotch BP + (P10+)

Reduction often in combination with: • Crotch BP - (P10-)

Enlarge possible in combination with: • ½ Waistband + (P3+) • ½ Waistband on front + (P27+) • ½ Seat + (P16+)

Reduction possible in combination with: • ½ Waistband - (P3-) • ½ Seat- (P16-) • Crotch BP + (P10+)

Increase rarely in combination with: • Crotch BP - (P10-)

Reduction never in combination with: • Center back seam - (P13-)

Enlarge never in combination with: • Center back seam + (P13+)

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Waistband • Finished Measurement ½ Waistband

MEASURING INSTRUCTIONS ON FINISHED MEASUREMENT ½ WAISTBAND

Measure the closed waistband from left to right when the customer is not wearing the trousers.

Please provide in any case the finished measurement for the desired ½ Waistband for control purposes. When doing so, please take any alteration that has an effect on the ½ waistband into consideration. If you note a finished measurement for ½ waistband, we will respect this finished measurement. If this finished measurement doesn’t correspond with the demanded adjustment(s) we will use the given adjustment as a guide line for the division of ½ waistband, but always by respecting the demanded finished measurement. This is the basic rule for all demanded finished measurements

Also read ‚Waistband • Introduction’. You will find there a summary of all adjustments that will influence the Finished Measurement ½ Waistband.

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Seat and Crotch • Introduction There are several changes that influence the seat and crotch diameter of the trousers. You can decide where the waistband and / or seat should be adapted. You have the following possibilities:

½ Seat P16

Rounding hip BP P11

Crotch BP P10

Center back seam P13

Rounding hip FP P12

Crotch FP P23

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Please provide, when changing the crotchdiameter, in any case the finished measurement for the desired ½ Crotch diameter for control purposes. When doing so, please take any alteration that has an effect on the ½ crotch diameter into consideration.

EXAMPLE:

The try-on garment has ½ crotch diameter = 35.4 cm. You want to reduce ½ seat and ½ crotch diameter with 1cm. The desired ‚Finished Measurement ½ Crotch diameter’ becomes 35.4 cm – 1 cm = 34,4 cm . You note: P16 -1; Finished Measurement ½ Crotch diameter = 34.4 cm. If this finished measurement doesn’t correspond with the demanded adjustment(s) we will use the given adjustment as a guide line for the division of ½ crotch diameter, but always by respecting the demanded finished measurement. This is the basic rule for all demanded finished measurements Changing the ‚Finished Measurement ½ Crotch diameter’ has a direct influence on the ‚Finished Measurement ½ Thigh width (at 10cm)’, since the distance between these two points is only 10cm. The possibilities to adapt the thigh width, when filling in the FM ½ thigh width, are therefore reduced (this also goes vice versa). Therefore we prefer you only fill in one of these finished measurements, this way the other measurement will be altered proportionally to ensure a smooth line flow. EXAMPLE 1 :

The try-on garment has ½ crotch diameter = 35.4 cm and ½ Thigh width (at 10cm) = 31.8 cm. You want to reduce ½ crotch diameter with 1cm and ½ thigh width (at 10cm) with 0.5cm. The desired ‚Finished Measurement ½ Crotch diameter’ becomes = 34,4 cm, the desired ‚Finished Measurement ½ Thigh width (at 10cm)’ becomes = 31.3 cm. These alterations are compatible. We keep a smooth line flow, which is very close to the ‚natural’ line found without a demanded measurement for ½ thigh width (at 10cm). EXAMPLE 2 :

The try-on garment has ½ crotch diameter = 35.4 cm and ½ Thigh width (at 10cm) = 31.8 cm. You want to increase ½ crotch diameter with 1cm and reduce ½ thigh width (at 10cm) with 2cm. The desired ‚Finished Measurement ½ Crotch diameter’ becomes = 36,4 cm, the desired ‚Finished Measurement ½ Thigh width (at 10cm)’ becomes = 29.8 cm. These alterations are not compatible. It is not possible to achieve a smooth line flow.

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Seat and Crotch • ½ Seat P16

INCREASE SEAT (+)

REDUCE SEAT (-)

Tension pleats form below the seat. The front pockets may break open. The fit of the trousers is uncomfortable to the customer.

The trousers is not close-fitting in the area of the seat, vertical pleats form due to the excess fabric, the crotch diameter is too big.

When the seat is too small, it is difficult to assess the necessary additional measurement for the ½ seat. It does make sense to try on trousers in the next higher size. Since the seat measurement is the most important factor in determining the try-on size of the trousers, these should fit as well as possible.

If the seat size is too big, excess fabric can be pinned up along the center back seam (rear centre) using pins. Measure the pleat content and divide the value by 2 to obtain the value for the ½ seat size. Please provide us with the desired alteration for the ‘½ Seat - P16-’ in centimeters. EXAMPLE:

The try-on garment is too big in the seat area. You pin up the excess fabric along the seat seam in the rear centre. The pleat depth comes out to 1cm (pleat content 2 cm). You provide us with a value of 1cm for the reduction of the ½ seat size. The crotch diameter will hereby be also reduced by 1 cm. The back part at seat height will be made larger or smaller by 70% of the found value on the center back seam and the crotch BP. The side seam in front- and back part will be made larger or smaller each by 15% of the found value. Picture shows smaller.

ORIENTATION VALUES

Light 0.5 cm / Medium 1 cm / Strong 2 cm The maximal values are to be found in our B2B system and depend on the chosen model. Increase often in combination with: • Crotch BP + (P10+)

Reduction often in combination with: • Back rise - close seat level - (P15-) • Crotch BP - (P10-)

Increase possible in combination with: • Back rise – open seat level + (P15+) in case of a round behind • ½ Waist & ½ Seat + (P14+) • Center back seam + (P13+)

Reduction possible in combination with: • ½ Waist & ½ Seat - (P14-) • Center back seam - (P13-) Reduction never in combination with: • Back rise – open seat level + (P15+)

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SEAT MEASUREMENT TROUSERS

Since the seat measurement is the most important factor in determining the try-on size of the trousers, these should fit as well as possible. It is difficult to make a measurement when the try-on trousers are too tight in the seat, since you cannot specify the missing amount. You can only work with estimated or experiencebased values. For this reason it is advisable to try-on trousers in the next higher size and pin up any possible excess fabric (see description).

COMBINATION OF THE ALTERATIONS ½ SEAT P16, CENTER BACK SEAM P13, CROTCH BP P10, ROUNDING HIP BP P11 AND ROUNDING HIP FP P12 The alteration of ½ seat is a combination of the changes ‚Crotch BP’, ‚Center Back seam’ and Rounding hip

FP and BP. So when you fill in these fields at the same time, you have to take into account that these values will be integral executed and not converted. EXAMPLE :

You note the following values: ½ Seat P16 +1 cm and Crotch BP P10 + 1.5 cm. The crotch on the back part will be made larger by 2.2 cm; 0.7 cm extra since the change on the ½ Seat (crotch will alter with 70% of the demanded value of the ½ seat ) and 1.5 cm due to the change of Crotch BP. If you note the finished measurement for the ½ Crotch diameter we will respect this demanded measurement. If this finished measurement doesn’t correspond to the demanded adjustment(s) we will use the given adjustment as a guideline for the division of ½ crotch diameter, but always by respecting the demanded finished measurement. This is the basic rule for all demanded finished measurements.

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Seat and Crotch • Rounding hip BP P11 and Rounding hip FP P12

PRONOUNCED HIPS (+)

FLAT HIPS (-)

If the customer has very pronounced hips, the curve of the hips on the trousers can be too flat. Tension pleats form in this area. Given the build of a man’s body, this fit problem rarely occurs.

If the customer has flat hips, you will see excess fabric in this area on both side seams. The rounding of the trousers are not filled. In most cases this excess of fabric can be found in the back part. In case of large values you can decrease the rounding hip in the front part.

If the trousers is tight above the hips, the amount for the increase has to be an estimated or experiencebased value. Here it also makes sense to try on a trousers in the next size. (see Tip: Seat measurement trousers P16)

In the case of flat hips, pin up the excess fabric evenly on both sides by using pins. Provide us with the measured amount for one side in cm. You note the value of the pinned off fabric of the front or back part in the according fields. EXAMPLE:

You see incompletely filled rounding on both sides of the trousers. You pin up the excess fabric. The pleat content amounts to 1cm on the left and right respectively. You provide us with a value of 1 cm for the reduction of the rounding. U note: ‘Rounding hip BP P11 - 1 cm’.

Also read the text about the Finished Measurement ½ Crotch diameter. It is important to remember that the alteration ‚Rounding hip BP P11’ relates to the total crotch diameter. When you note for ‚Rounding hip BP P11’ +1cm, the Finished Measurement ½ Crotch diameter will increase by 0.5cm (the same goes for ‚Rounding hip FP P12’)

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ROUNDING HIP BP (BACK PART)

The back part at hip height will be made larger or smaller by 100% of the found value, on the side seam. The Finished Measurement ½ Crotch diameter will become larger or smaller by 50% of the found value. Picture shows smaller.

ROUNDING HIP FP (FRONT PART)

The front part at hip height will be made larger or smaller by 100% of the found value, on the side seam. The Finished Measurement ½ Crotch diameter will become larger or smaller by 50% of the found value. Picture shows smaller

ORIENTATION VALUES ROUNDING HIP BP

Light 0,5 cm / Strong 1 cm ORIENTATION VALUES ROUNDING HIP FP

Light 0,5 cm / Strong 1 cm The maximal values are to be found in our B2B system and depend on the chosen model.

Reduction often in combination with: • ½ Seat - (P16-) Reduction rarely in combination with: • ½ Seat + (P16+)

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TIPS COMBINATION OF THE ALTERATIONS ½ SEAT P16, CENTER BACK SEAM P13, CROTCH BP P10, ROUNDING HIP BP P11 AND ROUNDING HIP FP P12 The alteration of ½ seat is a combination of the changes ‚Crotch BP’, ‚Center Back seam’ and Rounding

hip FP and BP. So when you fill in these fields at the same time, you have to take into account that these values will be integral executed and not converted. EXAMPLE :

You note the following values: ½ Seat P16 +1 cm and Crotch BP P10 + 1.5 cm. The crotch on the back part will be made larger by 2.2 cm; 0.7 cm extra since the change on the ½ Seat (crotch will alter with 70% of the demanded value of the ½ seat ) and 1.5 cm due to the change of Crotch BP. If you note the finished measurement for the ½ Crotch diameter we will respect this demanded measurement. If this finished measurement doesn’t correspond to the demanded adjustment(s) we will use the given adjustment as a guideline for the division of ½ crotch diameter, but always by respecting the demanded finished measurement. This is the basic rule for all demanded finished measurements.

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Seat and Crotch • Center Back seam P13

INCREASE THE CENTER BACK SEAM (+)

REDUCE THE CENTER BACK SEAM (-)

Tension pleats form below the buttocks. The crotch diameter is OK.

The trousers is not close-fitting in the area of the seat, vertical pleats form due to the excess fabric. The crotch diameter is OK.

When the trousers is too small on the center back seam, it is difficult to assess the necessary additional measurement. It does make sense to try on trousers in the next higher size. Since the seat measurement is the most important factor in determining the try-on size of the trousers, these should fit as well as possible.

If the trousers is too big on the center back seam, excess fabric can be pinned up along the center back seam (rear centre) using pins. Measure the pleat content and divide the value by 2 . EXAMPLE:

The try-on garment is too big in the buttocks area. You pin up the excess fabric along the center back seam (=seat seam) in the rear centre. The pleat depth comes out to 1cm (pleat content 2 cm). You note: ‚Center back seam P13 –1 cm’.

The backpart at seatheight will be made larger or smaller by 100% of the found value, on the center back seam. Picture shows smaller

ORIENTATION VALUES

Light 0,5 cm / Stong 1 cm The maximal values are to be found in our B2B system and depend on the chosen model. Increase often in combination with: • Crotch BP + (P10+)

Reduction often in combination with: • Crotch BP - (P10-)

Increase possible in combination with: • ½ Seat + (P16+)

Reduction possible in combination with: • ½ Seat - (P16-) • Crotch BP + (P10+)

Increase rarely in combination with: • Crotch BP - (P10-) Increase never in combination with: • ½ Waist & ½ Seat + (P14+)

Reduction never in combination with: • ½ Waist & ½ Seat - (P14-)

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SEAT MEASUREMENT TROUSERS

Since the seat measurement is the most important factor in determining the try-on size of the trousers, these should fit as well as possible. It is difficult to make a measurement when the try-on trousers are too tight in the seat, since you cannot specify the missing amount. You can only work with estimated or experience-based values. For this reason it is advisable to try-on trousers in the next higher size and pin up any possible excess fabric (see description).

COMBINATION OF THE ALTERATIONS ½ SEAT P16, CENTER BACK SEAM P13, CROTCH BP P10, ROUNDING HIP BP P11 AND ROUNDING HIP FP P12 The alteration of ½ seat is a combination of the changes ‚Crotch BP’, ‚Center Back seam’ and Rounding

hip FP and BP. So when you fill in these fields at the same time, you have to take into account that these values will be integral executed and not converted. EXAMPLE :

You note the following values: ½ Seat P16 +1 cm and Crotch BP P10 + 1.5 cm. The crotch on the back part will be made larger by 2.2 cm; 0.7 cm extra since the change on the ½ Seat (crotch will alter by 70% of the demanded value of the ½ seat ) and 1.5 cm due to the change of Crotch BP. If you note the finished measurement for the ½ Crotch diameter we will respect this demanded measurement. If this finished measurement doesn’t correspond to the demanded adjustment(s) we will use the given adjustment as a guideline for the division of ½ crotch diameter, but always by respecting the demanded finished measurement. This is the basic rule for all demanded finished measurements.

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Seat and Crotch • Crotch BP P10

INCREASE CROTCH DIAMETER (+)

REDUCE CROTCH DIAMETER (-)

The trouser back pulls in the seat, diagonal streaks form from the side seam to the crotch. The crotch is too small.

The trousers are not form-fitting in the rear crotch area, the crotch is too big and therfore to low. Pleats form due to the excess of fabric. Please also check the back rise.

In the case of increase, as well as reduction of the crotch diameter, you are looking at an estimated or experience-based value. Please give us the amount in cm. Also read the text about the Finished Measurement ½ Crotch diameter. It is important to remember that the alteration ‚Crotch BP P10’ relates to the total crotch diameter. When you note for ‚ Crotch BP P10’ + 1.5 cm, the Finished Measurement ½ Crotch diameter will increase by 0.75cm. The crotch in the back part will be made larger or smaller by 100% of the found value. The crotch diameter will also be made larger or smaller by 100% of the found value (or ½ crotch diameter by 50%). Picture shows larger.

ORIENTATION VALUES

Increase: Light 0,5 cm / Medium 1 cm / Strong 1,5 cm Reduction: Light 0,5 cm / Strong 1 cm The maximal values are to be found in our B2B system and depend on the chosen model. Increase often in combination with: • ½ Seat + (P16+) Increase possible in combination with: • Center back seam + (P13+) • ½ Waist & ½ Seat + (P14+) • Center back seam - (P13-) • ½ Waist & ½ Seat - (P14-) Increase never in combination with: • Thigh width at 10 cm (circumference) - (P17-)

Reduction often in combination with: • Back rise - close seat level - (P15-) • ½ Seat - (P16-) Reduction possible in combination with: • ½ Waist & ½ Seat - (P14-) • Center back seam - (P13-) Reduction rarely in combination with: • Back rise - open seat level + (P15+) • Center back seam + (P13+) • ½ Waist & ½ Seat + (P14+) Reduction never in combination with: • Thigh width at 10 cm (circumference) + (P17+) 145


TIP

SEAT SEAM TOO SHORT

If you are heavily reducing the back rise (P6), you should also ensure that the seat seam will not become too short (= uncomfortable, the trouser back can pull in the seat). To lengthen the seat seam once more, you can apply the ‘Rise all around P1+’ or ‘Crotch BP P10+’ measurement alterations, according to the figure type of your customer. You can divide the pleat content, if necessary, between the ‘Back rise – close seat level P15-‘ and ‘Front rise P5+’ fields (see Tip Back rise – seat level open/close P15). EXAMPLE :

The length of the seat seam of the try-on garment is correct (comfortable for the customer). To bring the trousers into balance, reduce the back rise by 2 cm. In the process, the seat seam will become too short for your customer, the trouser back pulls in the seat and the crotch is too high. To lengthen the seat seam, you have the following possibilities: •’Rise (all around) P1’+ 1 cm (in this case, the front rise is also lengthened) • Or ‘Crotch BP P10’+ 2 cm • Or ‘Rise (all around) P1’+ 0.5 cm and ‘Crotch BP P10’+ 1 cm (in this case, the front rise is also lengthened) • Or apply the method from tip ‚Back rise – seat level open/close P15’ COMBINATION OF THE ALTERATIONS ½ SEAT P16, CENTER BACK SEAM P13, CROTCH BP P10, ROUNDING HIP BP P11 AND ROUNDING HIP FP P12 The alteration of ½ seat is a combination of the changes ‚Crotch BP’, ‚Center Back seam’ and Rounding

hip FP and BP. So when you fill in these fields at the same time, you have to take into account that these values will be integral executed and not converted. EXAMPLE :

You note the following values: ½ Seat P16 +1 cm and Crotch BP P10 + 1.5 cm. The crotch on the backpart will be made larger by 2.2 cm; 0.7 cm extra since the change on the ½ Seat (crotch will alter by 70% of the demanded value of the ½ seat ) and 1.5 cm due to the change of Crotch BP. If you note the finished measurement for the ½ Crotch diameter we will respect this demanded measurement. If this finished measurement doesn’t correspond to the demanded adjustment(s) we will use the given adjustment as a guideline for the division of ½ crotch diameter, but always by respecting the demanded finished measurement. This is the basic rule for all demanded finished measurements.

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Seat and Crotch • Crotch FP P23 Depending your client’s silhouette, the increase of the crotch in the frontpart can be necessary; a reducement however is rarely found. In case of a round buttocks it is possible that you need to increase the crotch diameter and that the value you can add with the alteration ‚Crotch BP P10’ is not sufficient. In that case you can use a combination of ‚Crotch BP P10’ and ‚Crotch FP P23’. EXAMPLE :

The try-on size has ½ crotch diameter = 35.4 cm. You want to increase the ½ crotch diameter by 1 cm. You note: Crotch FP P23 +0.5 cm; Crotch BP P10 +1.5 cm or Finished Measurement ½ Crotch diameter = 36,4 cm In the case of increase, as well as reduction of the crotch FP, you are looking at an estimated or experience-based value. Please give us the amount in cm. Also read the text about the Finished Measurement ½ Crotch diameter. It is important to remember that the alteration ‚Crotch FP P23’ relates to the total crotch diameter. When you note for ‚ Crotch FP P23’ + 1 cm, the Finished Measurement ½ Crotch diameter will increase by 1cm.

The crotch in the front part will be made larger or smaller by 100% of the found value. The crotch diameter will also be made larger or smaller by 100% of the found value (or ½ crotch diameter by 50%). Picture shows larger.

ORIENTATION VALUES

Light 0,5 cm / Strong 1 cm The maximal values are to be found in our B2B system and depend on the chosen model.

Increase often in combination with: • Crotch BP + (P10+) Increase never in combination with: • Thigh width at 10 cm (circumference) - (P17-)

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TIP

COMBINATION OF THE ALTERATIONS ½ SEAT P16, CENTER BACK SEAM P13, CROTCH BP P10, ROUNDING HIP BP P11 AND ROUNDING HIP FP P12 The alteration of ½ seat is a combination of the changes ‚Crotch BP’, ‚Center Back seam’ and Rounding

hip FP and BP. So when you fill in these fields at the same time, you have to take into account that these values will be integral executed and not converted. EXAMPLE :

You note the following values: ½ Seat P16 +1 cm and Crotch BP P10 + 1.5 cm. The crotch on the backpart will be made larger by 2.2 cm; 0.7 cm extra since the change on the ½ Seat (crotch will alter by 70% of the demanded value of the ½ seat ) and 1.5 cm due to the change of Crotch BP. If you note the finished measurement for the ½ Crotch diameter we will respect this demanded measurement. If this finished measurement doesn’t correspond to the demanded adjustment(s) we will use the given adjustment as a guideline for the division of ½ crotch diameter, but always by respecting the demanded finished measurement. This is the basic rule for all demanded finished measurements.

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Seat and crotch • Finished Measurements ½ Crotch diameter

MEASURING INSTRUCTIONS OF FINISHED MEASUREMENT ½ CROTCH DIAMETER

Lay the trousers sideways flat on the table, ‘throw’ the top-lying leg away and measure at crotch height the width of the leg, from pleat till pleat (center front till center back). The finished measurement of the ½ crotch diameter is also to be found in our measurement scales.

When you give the Finished Measurement ½ Crotch diameter, please take any alteration that has an effect on the ½ crotch diameter into consideration. If this finished measurement doesn’t correspond to the demanded adjustment(s) we will use the given adjustment as a guide line for the division of ½ crotch diameter, but always by respecting the demanded finished measurement. This is the basic rule for all demanded finished measurements Changing the ‚Finished Measurement ½ Crotch diameter’ has a direct influence on the ‚Finished Measurement ½ Thigh width (at 10cm)’, since the distance between these two points is only 10cm. The possibilities to adapt the thigh width, when filling in the FM ½ thigh width, are therefore reduced (this also goes vice versa). Therefore we prefer you only fill in one of these finished measurements, this way the other measurement will be altered proportionally to ensure a smooth line flow. EXAMPLE 1 :

The try-on garment has ½ crotch diameter = 35.4 cm and ½ Thigh width (at 10cm) = 31.8 cm. You want to reduce ½ crotch diameter with 1cm and ½ thigh width (at 10cm) with 0.5cm. The desired ‚Finished Measurement ½ Crotch diameter’ becomes = 34,4 cm, the desired ‚Finished Measurement ½ Thigh width (at 10cm)’ becomes = 31.3 cm. These alterations are compatible. We keep a smooth line flow, which is very close to the ‚natural’ line found without a demanded measurement for ½ thigh width (at 10cm). EXAMPLE 2 :

The try-on garment has ½ crotch diameter = 35.4 cm and ½ Thigh width (at 10cm) = 31.8 cm. You want to increase ½ crotch diameter with 1cm and reduce ½ thigh width (at 10cm) with 2cm. The desired ‚Finished Measurement ½ Crotch diameter’ becomes = 36,4 cm, the desired ‚Finished Measurement ½ Thigh width (at 10cm)’ becomes = 29.8 cm. These alterations are not compatible. It is not possible to achieve a smooth line flow.

Also read ‚Seat and Crotch • Introduction’. You will find there a summary of all adjustments that will influence the Finished Measurement ½ Crotch diameter.

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Leg • Thigh width at 10 cm (circumference) P17

INCREASE THIGH WIDTH

REDUCE THIGH WIDTH

The trousers is to tight in the thigh area (approx. 10cm below the crotch diameter). Please rule out the case of the rise being too short in the back. In this case, the trousers clings forward on the thighs and the thigh area on the trouser front seems too tight.

The trousers do not appeal to the customer in the thigh area (approx. 10cm below the crotch diameter), he finds them too wide on the entire leg.

If the trousers are tight on the thighs, the value to increase has to be an estimated or experience-based value. Please enter the value (total amount) for the necessary additional measurement in cm in the ‘Thigh width at 10cm (circumference) P17+’ field.

If the thighs are too big, pin up the excess material on the thigh level. Please enter the determined amount (total amount) in cm in the ‘Thigh width at 10cm (circumference) P17-’ field.

Also read ‚Finshed Measurement ½ Thigh width (at 10cm). It is important to remember that the alteration ‘Thigh width at 10cm (circumference) P17’ relates to the total measurement of the thigh width (at 10cm). When you note for ‘Thigh width at 10cm (circumference) P17+’ +2 cm, the ‚Finshed Measurement ½ Thigh width (at 10cm)’ will increase by 1cm.

The front and back part will be made larger or smaller by 100% of the found value, at thigh height (10cm under crotch). To ensure a nice line flow the knee width will also be adapted. Picture shows smaller.

ORIENTATION VALUES

Light 1 cm / Medium 2 cm / Strong 3 cm The maximal values are to be found in our B2B system and depend on the chosen model. Increase often in combination with: • ½ Seat + (P16+) • Crotch BP + (P10+) • ½ Knee width (FM)+ Increase rarely in combination with: • ½ Seat - (P16-) • ½ Knee width (FM) – Increase never in combination with: • Crotch BP - (P10-)

Reduction often in combination with: • Crotch diameter BP - (P10-) • ½ Knee width (FM) – Reduction rarely in combination with: • ½ Seat + (P16+) • ½ Knee width (FM)+ Reduction never in combination with: • Crotch BP + (P10+)

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Leg • Finished Measurement ½ Thigh width (at 10 cm)

MEASURING INSTRUCTIONS OF FINISHED MEASUREMENT ½ THIGH WIDTH (AT 10CM)

Lay the trousers sideways flat on the table, ‘throw’ the top-lying leg away and measure at 10 cm under the crotch the width of the leg = thigh width, from pleat till pleat (center front till center back). The finished measurement of the ½ thigh width (at 10cm) is also to be found in our measurement scales.

When you give the Finished Measurement ½ Thigh width (at 10cm), please take any alteration that has an effect on the ½ thigh width (at 10cm) into consideration. If this finished measurement doesn’t correspond to the demanded adjustment(s) we will use the given adjustment as a guide line for the division of ½ thigh width (at 10cm), but always by respecting the demanded finished measurement. This is the basic rule for all demanded finished measurements Changing the ‚Finished Measurement ½ Thigh width (at 10cm) has a direct influence on the ‚Finished Measurement ½ Crotch diameter, since the distance between these two points is only 10cm. The possibilities to adapt the thigh width, when filling in the FM ½ crotch diameter, are therefore reduced (this also goes vice versa). Therefore we prefer you only fill in one of these finished measurements, this way the other measurement will be altered proportionally to ensure a smooth line flow. EXAMPLE 1 :

The try-on garment has ½ rotch diameter = 35.4 cm and ½ thigh width (at 10cm) = 31.8 cm. You want to reduce ½ crotch diameter with 1cm and ½ thigh width (at 10cm) with 0.5cm. The desired ‚Finished Measurement ½ Crotch diameter’ becomes = 34,4 cm, the desired ‚Finished Measurement ½ Thigh width (at 10cm)’ becomes = 31.3 cm. These alterations are compatible. We keep a smooth line flow, which is very close to the ‚natural’ line found without a demanded measurement for ½ thigh width (at 10cm). EXAMPLE 2 :

The try-on garment has ½ crotch diameter = 35.4 cm and ½ thigh width (at 10cm) = 31.8 cm. You want to increase ½ crotch diameter with 1cm and reduce ½ thigh width (at 10cm) with 2cm. The desired ‚Finished Measurement ½ Crotch diameter’ becomes = 36,4 cm, the desired ‚Finished Measurement ½ Thigh width (at 10cm)’ becomes = 29.8 cm. These alterations are not compatible. It is not possible to achieve a smooth line flow.

Also read ‚Seat and Crotch • Introduction’. You will find there a summary of all adjustments that will influence the Finished Measurement ½ Thigh width (at 10cm).

151


Leg • Finished Measurement ½ Knee width

½ knee width

MEASURING INSTRUCTIONS OF FINISHED MEASUREMENT ½ KNEE WIDTH

Lay the trousers sideways flat on the table, ‘throw’ the top-lying leg away and measure at knee level the width of the leg, from pleat till pleat (center front till center back). The knee is about 6-8cm above the halfway point of the inseam. You can determine the exact level with the notches on the seam allowance in the trouser leg. The Finished Measurement of the ½ Knee width is also to be found in our measurement scales. You can indicate the ½ knee width individually, according the wishes of the customer. However, you should ensure a harmonious trouser leg flow. For this reason, we also adjust the thigh width and crotch diameter in case of an altered ½ knee width. Please give us the desired ½ knee width in cm as a finished measurement. EXAMPLE :

The try-on garment has a ½ knee width of 27 cm. The customer wishes to have a more fitted leg and with it, also somewhat more fitted knee width. You reduce the ½ knee width by 1 cm. The desired finished measurement ½ knee width then amounts to: 27 cm - 1 cm = 26 cm

The knee width will be made larger or smaller. To ensure a nice line flow the ½ thigh width (at 10cm) will also be adapted. Picture shows smaller

ORIENTATION VALUES

Light 0,5 cm / Medium 1 cm / Strong 2 cm The maximal values are to be found in our B2B system and depend on the chosen model

Increase is often in combination with: • ½ Bottom width (FM) +

Reduction often in combination with: • ½ Bottom width (FM) -

Increase rarely in combination with: • ½ Bottom width (FM) – • Thigh width at 10 cm (circumference) - (P17-)

Reduction rarely in combination with: • ½ Bottom width (FM) + • Thigh width at 10 cm (circumference + (P17+)

152


Leg • Finished Measurement ½ Bottom width

½ bottom width

MEASURING INSTRUCTIONS OF FINISHED MEASUREMENT ½ BOTTOM WIDTH

Lay the trousers sideways flat on the table, ‘throw’ the top-lying leg away and measure the hem the width of the leg, from pleat till pleat (center front till center back). The Finished Measurement of the ½ Bottom width is also to be found in our measurement scales.

You can determine the ½ bottom width individually, according to the customer’s preferences. However, keep a harmonious leg flow in mind. For this reason, we adjust the ½ knee width to the altered ½ bottom width (when there is no specific value given for this finished measurement). Please give us the desired ½ bottom width in cm as a finished measurement. EXAMPLE:

The try-on garment has a ½ bottom width of 22 cm. The customer wishes to have a larger bottom width. You increase the bottom width by 3cm, i.e. the ½ bottom width should be increased by 1.5 cm. The desired finished ½ bottom width finished measurement then amounts to: 22 cm + 1.5 cm = 23.5 cm.

The bottom width wil be made larger or smaller. To ensure a nice line flow the ½ knee width will also be adapted. Picture shows smaller

ORIENTATION VALUES

Light 1 cm / Medium 2 cm / Strong 3 cm The maximal values are to be found in our B2B system and depend on the chosen model

Increase is often in combination with: • ½ Knee width (FM) +

Reduction often in combination with: • ½ Knee width (FM) -

Increase rarely in combination with: • ½ Knee width (FM) -

Reduction rarely in combination with: • ½ Knee width (FM) +

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Leg • O-legs P8

If the knees don’t touch eachother when the ankels are kept together, we talk about O-legs. Because of the knees pushing against the outside of the leg of the trousers (= outseam), diagonal pleats form from the ouside of the knee to the inside bottom of the leg of the trousers. The ironed pleat doesn’t fall nicely on the knee and the inseam is too long in comparaison with the outseam of the leg.

This value has to be estimated; you use your experience in this case. Please provide the amount in cm. This value will be translated to light (=1cm) and strong (=2cm).

The outseam will be made longer by 15% of the found value, on the waistline. The leg at kneeheight will be placed to the outseam by 15% of the found value.

ORIENTATION VALUES

Light 1 cm / Strong 2 cm The maximal values are to be found in our B2B system and depend on the chosen model

154


Leg • X-legs P9 If the ankles don’t touch eachother when the knees are kept together, we talk about X-legs. Because of the knees pushing against the inside of the leg of the trousers (= inseam), diagonal pleats form from the inside of the knee to the outside of the leg of the trousers on seat height. The ironed pleat doesn’t fall nicely on the knee and the inseam is too short in comparaison with the outseam of the leg.

This value has to be estimated; you use your experience in this case. Please provide the amount in cm. This value will be translated to light (=1cm) and strong (=2cm).

The outseam will be made shorter by 15% of the found value, on the waistline. The leg at kneeheight will be placed to the inseam by 15% of the found value.

ORIENTATION VALUES

Light 1 cm / Strong 2 cm The maximal values are to be found in our B2B system and depend on the chosen model

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Summary: alterations trousers –by code CODE

ALTERATION

CHAPTER

PAGE

P1 P3 P5 P6 P8 P9 P10 P11 P12 P13 P14 P15 P16 P17 P21 P23 P27 P28 FM FM FM FM FM FM FM

Rise (all around)

RISE

123

½ Waistband

WAISTBAND

130

Front rise (max. 1,5 cm)

RISE

119

Back rise - waistband level

RISE

117

O-Legs

LEGS

154

X-Legs

LEGS

155

Crotch BP

SEAT AND CROTCH

145

Rounding hip BP

SEAT AND CROTCH

140

Rounding hip FP

SEAT AND CROTCH

140

Center back seam

SEAT AND CROTCH

143

½ Waist & ½ Seat

WAISTBAND

134

Back rise – seat level open (+) / close (-)

RISE

115

½ Seat

SEAT AND CROTCH

138

Thigh width at 10 cm (circumference)

LEGS

150

Front rise (more than 1,5 cm)

RISE

121

Crotch FP

SEAT AND CROTCH

147

½ Waistband on front

WAISTBAND

132

Hip higher on 1 side

RISE

124

½ Waistband

WAISTBAND

135

½ Bottom width

LEGS

153

½ Crotch diameter

SEAT AND CROTCH

144

½ Thigh width (at 10 cm)

LEGS

151

½ Knee width

LEGS

152

Outseam excl. Waistband

RISE

126

Inseam

RISE

127

156


Summary: alterations trousers – by chapter CHAPTER

CODE

ALTERATION

PAGE

LEGS

FM FM FM P8 P9 P17 FM FM P1 P5 P6 P15 P21 P28 FM P10 P11 P12 P13 P16 P23 FM P3 P14 P27

½ Bottom width

153

½ Thigh width (at 10 cm)

151

½ Knee width

152

O-Legs

154

X-Legs

155

Thigh width at 10 cm (circumference)

150

Outseam excl. Waistband

126

Inseam

127

Rise (all around)

123

Front rise (max. 1,5 cm)

119

Back rise - waistband level

117

Back rise – seat level open (+) / close (-)

115

Front rise (more than 1,5 cm)

121

Hip higher on 1 side

124

½ Crotch diameter

149

Crotch BP

145

Rounding hip BP

140

Rounding hip FP

140

Center back seam

143

½ Seat

138

Crotch FP

147

½ Waistband

135

½ Waistband

130

½ Waist & ½ Seat

134

½ Waistband on front

132

LEGS LEGS LEGS LEGS LEGS RISE RISE RISE RISE RISE RISE RISE RISE SEAT AND CROTCH SEAT AND CROTCH SEAT AND CROTCH SEAT AND CROTCH SEAT AND CROTCH SEAT AND CROTCH SEAT AND CROTCH WAISTBAND WAISTBAND WAISTBAND WAISTBAND

157


Summary: alterations trousers – schematic diagram.

158


THE WAISTCOAT In this chapter we will discuss all alterations and finished measurements available for the waistcoat. On the orderform are only the finished measurements and a few alterations specific for the waistcoat available. In B2B you can find all available alterations and finished measurements. De changes you register for the jacket are the base for the determination of the fitting for the waistcoat. FIT ASSESSMENT

When you order a waistcoat, you try your waistcoat on the correct trousers (with the waistband on th correct height) and shirt. The fitted waistcoat will help you to dertermine the finished measurements (see below). To determine the balance, shoulderslope and width repartition, you start from the jacket and you apply the same theory of measurement as on the jacket. Further the measurements for the waistcoat will be adapted like this: - For the balance: Only 75% of the found value (of the jacket) will be applied on the waistcoat. -For the shoulderslope: Only 50% of the found value (of the jacket) will be applied on the waistcoat, since we have to take into account the shorter shoulder seam of the waistcoat. This goes for square and sloping shoulders. -For the width partition: Reduce ½ Jacket with 1cm to achieve ½ Waistcoat Reduce the shoulder width by 50% of the found value (of the jacket) All finished measurements should of course be entered. You also have the opportunity to register on the orderform some alterations with a pure aesthetic result.

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS

If you have no try-on waistcoats available, start with the size specified for the jacket and determine the Finished Measurements for ‚Waistcoat length’, ‚Front length’ and ‚Opening’ by using a measuring tape. The front and back length of the waistcoat are best measured on the shirt, and this in combination with the correct trousers. The seat height, position of the waistband play a key role. The neckopening of the waistcoat can be determined based on the chosen jacket, this to visualise both necklines. If you order a waistcoat based on a jacket, we will apply the balance changes, shoulder slope and the width-partition you gave for the jacket. For the shoulder slope we will halve the found value of the jacket, since since we have to take into account the shorter shoulder seam of the waistcoat The orientation value for determining the ½ Waistcoat width = ½ Jacket - 1 cm.

159


Balance • Erect figure GN10-

The neckline of the waistcoat is in the correct position, the back part rests on the hips due to an excess of back length (of back height). The front edges fold over one another in the lower parts

To bring the waistcoat into balance, pin the excess material horizontally over the shoulderblades, there were you measure back width. Measure the pleat content. This is the value for the excess on the back height. Note the result in the ‘Erect posture GN10-’ field. The back length (BL) will be reduced by this value. Please note the change in back length when determining the waistcoat length. The waiscoat should remain in this position, therefore in balance, during all the remaining measurements!

With this change the back length will be reduced (by 50% of the found value) and the front length will be lengthened (by 50% of the found value). Because this correction shouldn’t influence the waistcoat length, the changed measure in back length has to be added on the bottom in front and back part (by 50% of the found value). By the Cutaway and Tailcoat the button height will follow by 25% of the found value to keep the proportion of the front part.

ORIENTATION VALUES

Light 0,5 cm / Medium 1,5 cm / Strong 2,5 cm The maximal values are to be found in our B2B system and depend on the chosen model.

Often in combination with: • Prominent chest (GN13) • Pleat under collar (with larger values) (GN19-) Possible in combination with: : • Deeper pocketdart (stout / very stout) (GN17) • Front length longer (shoulder-neck point) (GN43+) • Armhole diameter + (GN15+) Rarely in combination with: • ½ Chest width (overlap) (GN40-) Never in combination with: • Bent figure (GN10+) • Round back (GN19+) • Front length shorter (shoulder-neck point) (GN43-)

160


TIP

WAISTCOAT IN BALANCE

If the waistcoat is in balance and the buttons are unfastened, the front edges lay in parallel. It is important to have the waistcoat in balance, before you proceed with the measurements. All finished measurements are determined on a waistcoat in balance ! Exception: Opening (CBS – highest button)

EXCEEDING MAXIMUM VALUE OF ERECT POSTURE

It is possible, in case of extreme erect posture, that the maximum value of 2.5cm backheight is exceeded. If so, you can increase the frontlength on the shoulderneckpoint (GN43+). EXAMPLE :

If the pleatcontent is 4cm (backheight) you can devide it like this: ‚Erect posture GN10’ - 2.5 cm and ‚Frontlength (shoulderneckpoint) longer’ + 1.5 cm You note : GN10 –2.5 cm; GN43 +1.5 cm

161


Balance • Front length longer (shoulder-neck point) GN43+ With this adjustment you can make the front length of the waistcoat longer, and therefore restore the balance. The adjustment of the front length is applied on the shoulder-neck point, this is at the crosspoint of the shoulder seam and neckline. This reflects (will change) on the angle of inclination of the shoulder seam in front part (see tips).

The front length at shoulder-neck point changes / lengthens with 100% of the found value.

ORIENTATION VALUES

Light 0,5 cm / Medium 1 cm / Strong 1,5 cm The maximal values are to be found in our B2B system and depend on the chosen model.

Often in combination with: • Erect figure (V10-) with larger values (GN10-)

Never in combination with: • Bent figure (GN10+) • Round back (GN19+)

162


TIP

EXCEEDING MAXIMUM VALUE OF ERECT POSTURE

It is possible, in case of extreme erect posture, that the maximum value of 2.5 cm backlength is exceeded. If so, you can increase the front length by adding on the shoulder-neck point (GN43+). EXAMPLE :

If the pleat content is 4 cm (back length) you can devide it like this: ‚Erect posture GN10’ - 2.5 cm and ‚Front length (shoulder-neck point) longer’ + 1.5 cm You note : GN10 –2.5 cm; GN43 +1.5 cm

CONSEQUENCES FOR THE ANGLE OF INCLINATION OF THE SHOULDERLINE

By adding more front length at the shoulder-neck point the shoulderline will become more slanted in the front part. If the customer has sloping shoulders this will improove the fitting. But if the customer has square shoulders this could result in fittingproblems at shoulderand neck area on the front part. In this case we advice to give extra front length by using ‚Erect posture GN10 +’.

163


Balance • Bent figure GN10+ When the neckline of the waistcoat is in the correct position in the neck (against the collar of the shirt), the hem in the center back stands out and goes up and the front edges run apart towards the hem.

Before you proceed with the measurements, you should bring the waistcoat into balance and determine the missing amount for the back length: • Bring the waistcoat neckline to the correct position to the shirt collar and mark this position with a pin on the collar of the shirt. • To bring the waistcoat into balance, shift the waistcoat back down until the hem is in a horizontal position. • Measure the difference between the pin and the waistcoat necline. This value is the missing amount for the back length. Note the result in the ‘Bent posture GN10+’. Please note the change of back length when determining the waistcoat length. The waistcoat should remain in this position, in balance, for all remaining measurements!

With this change the back length will be increased (by 50% of the found value) and the front length will be shortened (by 50% of the found value). Because this correction shouldn’t influence the waistcoat length, the changed measure in back length has to be taken off on the bottom in front and back part (by 50% of the found value). By the Cutaway and Tailcoat the button height will follow by 25% of the found value to keep the proportion of the front part.

ORIENTATION VALUES

Light 0,5 cm / Medium 1,5 cm / Strong 2,5 cm The maximal values are to be found in our B2B system and depend on the chosen model

Often in combination with: • Round back (GN19+) (see tip) • ½ Collar diameter (CBS) - (GN23-) • ½ Chest width (overlap) - (GN40-) Possible in combination with : • Front length shorter (shoulder-neck point) (GN43-) Rarely in combination with: • Prominent chest (GN13) • Pleat under collar (GN19-) Never in combination with: • Erect figure (GN10-) • Front length longer (shoulder-neck point) (GN43+)

164


TIP

WAISTCOAT IN BALANCE

If the waistcoat is in balance and the buttons are unfastened, the front edges lay in parallel. It is important to have the waistcoat in balance, before you proceed with the measurements. All finished measurements are determined on a waistcoat in balance ! Exception: Opening (CBS – highest button)

DIFFERENCE BETWEEN BENT POSTURE AND ROUND BACK

The ‘Bent posture’ figure type leans forward with the entire upper part of the body. The waistcoat is too short over the entire back. With a ‘Round back’ figure type, the spinal column is sloping at the level of the shoulder blades. The waistcoat is too short especially in the upper part of the sew center back seam. Pleats build from the middle back to the side seams. There often is a combination of these two postures. In this case you should divide the measured value (the necessary back length) between the ‘Bent posture GN10+’ and ‘Round back GN19+’ fields, whereby the bent posture normally has the largest part.

EXCEEDING MAXIMUM VALUE OF BENT POSTURE

It is possible, in case of extreme bent posture, that the maximum value of 2.5cm back height is exceeded. If so, you can reduce the front length on the shoulder-neck point (GN43-). EXAMPLE :

If the distance between pin and neckline of the waistcoat = 3.5 cm (back length) you can divide it like this: ‚Bent posture GN10+’ 2.5 cm and ‚Front length (shoulder-neck point) shorter GN43-’ 1cm. You note : GN10 +2.5 cm ; GN43 –1 cm

165


Balance • Front length shorter (shoulder-neck point) GN43With this adjustment you can make the front length of the waistcoat shorter, and therefore restore the balance. The adjustment of the front length is applied on the shoulder-neck point, this is at the crosspoint of the shoulder seam and neckline. This adjustment will change the angle of inclination of the shoulder seam in front part (see tips).

The front length at shoulder-neck point changes / shortens by 100% of the found value.

ORIENTATION VALUES

Light 5cm / Strong 1 cm The maximal values are to be found in our B2B system and depend on the chosen model.

Often in combination with: • Bent figure (GN10+) with larger values Never in combination with: • Erect figure (GN10-)

166


TIP

EXCEEDING MAXIMUM VALUE OF BENT POSTURE

It is possible, in case of extreme bent posture, that the maximum value of 2.5cm back height is exceeded. If so, you can reduce the front length on the shoulder-neck point (GN43-). EXAMPLE :

If the distance between pin and neckline of the waistcoat = 3.5 cm (back length) you can devide it like this: ‚Bent posture GN10+’ 2.5 cm and ‚Front length (shoulder-neck point) shorter GN43-’ 1cm. You note : GN10 +2.5 cm ; GN43 –1 cm

CONSEQUENCES FOR THE ANGLE OF INCLINATION OF THE SHOULDERLINE

By taking off front length at the shoulder-neck point the shoulderline will become straighter in the front part. If the customer has ‚Square shoulder(s)’ this will improve the fitting. But if the customer has ‚Sloping shoulder(s)’ this could result in fitting problems on front part at shoulder and neck area. In this case we advice to take off extra front length by using ‚Bent posture GN10 -’.

167


Balance • Pleat under collar GN19Horizontal pleats build below the neckline. The course of the sew center back seam over the arch of the back is too long or the neck is short. In contrast to square shoulders and shoulders forward, pleat under collar is visible only on the back. This cross pleat is not to be confused with shoulders forward or square shoulders.

Pin the pleat horizontally below the neckline. The pleat content gives the value (in cm) for the pleat under collar. Please note the alteration of the back length when determining the waistcoat length.

The back part will be cut horizontally at shoulderblade height from center back till the armhole en closed by 100% of the found value. Because this correction shouldn’t influence the waistcoat length, the changed measure in back length has to be added on the bottom in front and back part (by 100% of the found value). By the Cutaway and Ttailcoat the button height will follow by 50% of the found value to keep the proportion of the front part.

ORIENTATION VALUES

Light 0,5 cm / Strong 1 cm The maximal values are to be found in our B2B system and depend on the chosen model.

Often in combination with: • Erect figure (GN10-) • Square shoulders (GN11+) with larger values Rarely in combination with: • Bent figure (GN10+) with larger values • Sloping shoulders (GN11-) Never in combination with: • Round back (GN19+)

168


TIPS

DIFFERENCE BETWEEN SQUARE SHOULDERS AND PLEAT UNDER COLLAR

There is always a cross pleat below the collar, however: • With ‚Pleat under collar GN19-’ this cross pleat is visible only on the back. The front edges run parallel towards the hem. • In the case of ‘Square shoulders GN11+’, this cross pleat is also visible on the front section. The front edges run apart towards the hem. WITH LARGE VALUES IT IS SENSIBLE TO DISTRIBUTE THE VALUES BETWEEN ‚SQUARE SHOULDER(S)’ AND ‚PLEAT UNDER COLLAR’

EXAMPLE With a pleat under collar of 3 cm: ‚Square shoulder(s)’ 2 cm and ‚Pleat under collar' 1 cm You note: GN11+2 cm; GN19-1 cm

169


Balance • Round back GN19+ The neckline of the waistcoat is in the correct position in the neck, pleats run from the center back to the side seams, the hem on the back stands out in the middle. The neckline has the tendency to stand out from the neck. In the case of large values the front parts tend to run a part to the hem (they will be pulled back by the back parts standing out at the seam). Before you proceed with the measurements, you should bring the waistcoat into balance and determine the missing amount for the back length : • Bring the waistcoat neckline into the correct position to the shirt collar and mark this position with a pin on the collar of the shirt. • To bring the waistcoat into balance, shift the waistcoat back down, until the hem is in a horizontal position. • Measure the difference between the pin and the waistcoat neckline. This value is the missing amount for the back length. Note the result in the field ‘Round back GN19+’. Please note the change of back length when determining the waistcoat length. The waistcoat should remain in this position, in balance, for all remaining measurements!

The back part will be cut horizontally at shoulderblade height from center back till the armhole and opened by 100% of the found value. Because this correction shouldn’t influence the waistcoat length, the changed measure in back length has to be taken off on the bottom in front and back part (by 100% of the found value). By the Cutaway and tailcoat the button height will follow by 50% of the found value to keep the proportion of the front part.

ORIENTATION VALUES

Light 0,5 cm / Medium 1 cm / Strong 1,5 cm The maximal values are to be found in our B2B system and depend on the chosen model.

Often in combination with: • Bent figure (GN10+) (see tip) • ½ Collar diameter (CBS ) - (GN23-) • ½ Chest width (overlap) - (GN40-) • Sloping shoulders (GN11-) • ½ Back width (CBS) + (V26+) Rarely in combination with: • Prominent chest (GN13+) • Square shoulders (GN11+) Never in combination with: • Erect figure (GN10-) • Pleat under collar (GN19-) • Front length longer (shoulder-neck point) (GN43+)

170


TIPS WAISTCOAT IN BALANCE

When the waistcoat is in balance, front and back length will be the same in profile. When the buttons are unfastened, the front edges lay in parallel. It is important that the waistcoat is in balance, before you proceed with the measurements. All finished measurements are determined on a waistcoat in balance! Exception: Opening (CBS -highest button).

DIFFERENCE BETWEEN ‚BENT FIGURE’ AND ‚ROUND BACK’

The ‘Bent posture’ figure type leans forward with the entire upper part of the body. The waistcoat is too short over the entire back. With a ‘Round back’ figure type, the spinal column is sloping at the level of the shoulderblades. The waistcoat is too short especially in the upper part of the sew center back seam. Pleats build from the center back to the side seams. There often is a combination of these two postures. In this case you should divide the measured value (the necessary back length) between ‘Bent posture GN10+’ and ‘Round back GN19+’ fields, where the bent posture normally receives the largest part.

DIFFERENTIATING BETWEEN ‚ROUND BACK’ AND ‚TOO-LARGE COLLAR DIAMETER’

When dealing with a protruding collar diameter, please first exclude the case of a round back or an S-figure. In the case of a round back, the back length is too short, the back «pulls» the waistcoat in the back away from the neck. In case of a slim neck, gaps appears sideways between the collar of the waistcoat and the collar of the shirt. A combination of both is obviously also possible. If the customer has a round back and the waistcoat a ‚too-large collar diameter’, you better reduce the collar diameter in center back ‚½ Collar diameter (CBS) GN23-’ (maximum of 0.5 cm is possible) together with the adjustment(s) for ‚Round back GN19+’ and possibly ‚Bent Figure GN10+’.

S-FIGURE

If, in addition to a round back, the abdomen and hips are slid or forward, we consider this as an ‚S-figure’. In this case you determine the value of ‚Round back GN19+’ and you move the width on waist and hipheight to the front. We advice you to adapt the waistcoat with the following codes: GN19+, GN8+ and GN 25-.

171


Balance • Deeper pocketdart GN17This figure type is hefty with a more uniform allocation of the abundance. The focal point lays nevertheless in the front section. The jacket is for the most part out of balance, it is shorter in front than in back. On the lower part of the front part, under the pockets, vertical pleats appear (giving a undulating effect).

Provide the ‘Stout’ figure per your assessment with 0.5cm (for medium) and 1cm (for strong). You will obtain a deeper chest dart and the dimensions will be somewhat reduced in the hem area. With it, the front section takes on the form of the abdomen better.

The opening of the chestdart on the waistline will be made larger by 100% of the found value. The width of the hem of the front part will be reduced with the same value.

ORIENTATION VALUES / POSSIBLE VALUES

0,5 cm or 1 cm Often in combination with: • Erect figure (GN10-) • ½ Overlap + (GN8+) Possible in combination with: • Overlap (lower level) close - (V31 -) • ½ Overlap - (GN8-) Never in combination with: • Prominent chest (GN13)

172


TIPS

DIFFERENCE BETWEEN STOUT AND VERY STOUT

With a very stout person the stomach is distinctly pronounced forward at waist level, while in the case of a stout figure the abundance is rather evenly distributed in the waist and hip areas. In both cases the use of ‚Deeper pocketdart GN17+’ is adviced since the dartopening will be made larger and the hem of the front part will be reduced. This way the front part will fit better around the belly. For a very stout person it is best to add the extra width specifically on the front part with ‘½ Overlap GN8+’. In case of a distinct undulating effect under the stomach; you can correct the width on hem of the side part by using ‘½ Hem (Side seams) GN7-‘ EXAMPLE VERY STOUT PERSON

Your customer has a very stout figure and a undulating effect under the stomach. He needs an additional 1.5cm extra width on the waist. You note: ‚Deeper pocketdart GN17’ +1 cm; ‚½ Overlap GN8’ +1 cm; ½ Waist (Side seams) GN6’ +0.5 cm; ‘½ Hem (Side seams) GN7‘ –1 cm. For a stout person you divide the extra width even and all around. Here you seldom have an undulating effect under the stomach EXAMPLE STOUT PERSON

Your customer has a stout figure. He needs an additional 1.5cm extra width on the ½ waistcoat. You note: ‚Deeper pocketdart GN17’ +1 cm; ‚½ Overlap GN8’ +0.5 cm; ‚½ Waist (Side seams) GN6’ +0.5 cm; ‚½ Waist & ½ Hem (CBS) GN25’ +0.5 cm

VERY STOUT

For these clients we advice a waistcoat with a lower closure. Waistcoats with a higher closure are not adviced, since the vertical edges of frontpart above the stomach will collapse (cave in).

SIZE OF THE TROUSERS

In the case of a very stout figure, the size of the trousers is often 1 size smaller than the size of the waistcoat.

STOUT SIZES

If the customer has a heavy stout figure, it would make sense to apply a stout size, recognizable by odd numbered sizes ( ex. 47, 49…). These stout sizes are larger on the stomach. A normal or short size is insufficient in this case; if the size corresponds to the chest size, the maximum value to increase the waist is exceeded. If we start out with a size that corresponds the stomach size, the shoulder width and chest are too big, and these can’t be as much adapted. Therefore we always emphasize to choose the size of your waistcoat based on the size of the contour chest; but always keeping in mind the rest of the body. Please refer yourself to the measurment table.

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Chest • Prominent chest GN13

The waistcoat is (almost) impossible to close at chest height. There’s a gap between the vertical edges of the waistcoat. ½ Chest width is to narrow. With a very prominent chest, the front length can also be too short.

The waistcoat has to be in balance so the vertical edges run parallel. To determine the shortage of ½ chest width you do the following. Measure at chestheight, over the opening, the distance from the button till the eye of the corresponding buttonhole. Divide this value in 2 = shortage of ½ chest width. On top of this extra width, we also make the chestdart opening deeper, this will create more volume on the chest and makes the front part more adapted to the form of the chest.

The vertical edges of the front part will be made larger by 100% of the found value. The chestdart will be made larger by the same value; waist en seat width will not change.

ORIENTATION VALUES

Light 0,5 cm / Strong 1 cm The maximal values are to be found in our B2B system and depend on the chosen model. Often in combination with: • Erect figure (GN10-) Possible in combination with: • ½ Back width (CBS) - (GN26-) • Armhole diameter + (GN15+) Rarely in combination with: • Round back (GN19+) • Bent figure (GN10+) • ½ Overlap - (GN8-) • ½ Chest width (overlap)- (GN40-) Never in combination with: • Deeper pocketdart (GN17) • Stout sizes

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TIPS

EXCEEDING MAXIMUM VALUE OF ‚PROMINENT CHEST’

It is possible, in case of extreme prominent chest, that the maximum value of 1cm prominent chest is exceeded. If so, you can add extra chestwidth by using additional to prominent chest the alteration ‚Armhole diameter GN15+’. When the found value is very high, we advice you to take 1 size larger. It is very likely that the front part also goes up in center front, this due to prominent chest. Than you assess the missing front length, and note this in the field ‚Front length (shoulder-neck point) longer GN43+’.

‚½ OVERLAP’ AND ‚PROMINENT CHEST’

The alteration ‚½ Overlap’ as well as ‚Prominent chest’ affect the chest dimension on the front edges. EXAMPLE:

If you simultaneously note ‚½ Overlap GN8’ – 1 cm and ‚Prominent chest GN13’ +1 cm the alteration of the chest width is completely reversed. Only the enhanced chestdart gives the front section extra form.

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Chest • ½ Chestwidth (overlap) GN40You apply this alteration when the front part is too wide on the chest. In case of a flat chest the waistcoat collapses at chestheight and the front parts fold over one another at the height of the first button because the chest width is to large. Her you use ‘½ Chest width (overlap) GN40-‘ to reduce the chest width. It is possible, in case of extreme prominent chest, that the maximum value of 1cm ‚Prominent chest GN13’ is exceeded. If so, you can add extra chest width by using additional to prominent chest the alteration ‚Armhole diameter GN15+’.

The excess of chest width has to be pinned away (vertically) between the armhole and center front edge at chest heigth. You note the complete depth of the fold in the field ‚½ Chest width (overlap) GN40-’. Guidelines to make the chest width larger are to be found under the alteration ‚Prominent chest GN13’.

The front part at chest height will be made smaller by 100% of the found value at the overlap.

ORIENTATION VALUES

Medium 0,5 cm / Strong 1 cm The maximal values are to be found in our B2B system and depend on the chosen model.

Reduction often in combination with: • Round back (GN19+) • Bent figure (GN10+) Reduction rarely in combination with: • Erect figure (GN10-) • ½ Overlap + (GN8+) • Prominent chest (GN13)

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TIPS

STRONG DECREASE OF ‚CHEST WIDTH’

If you measure a high value for flat chest (GN40-) and you also need to make armhole diameter smaller, we advice you to try a size smaller. The shoulder width can more easely be adapted, if necessary.

EXCEEDING MAXIMUM VALUE OF ‚PROMINENT CHEST’

It is possible, in case of extreme prominent chest, that the maximum value of 1cm prominent chest is exceeded. If so, you can add extra chest width by using additional to prominent chest the alteration ‚Armhole diameter GN15+’. When the found value is very high, we advice you to take 1 size larger. It is very likely that the front part also goes up in center front, this due to prominent chest. Than you assess the missing front length, and note this in the field ‚Front length (shoulder-neck point) longer GN43+’.

‚½ OVERLAP’ AND ‚FLAT CHEST’ Both ‚½ Overlap GN8’ as Flat chest (GN40-) have an influence on the chest width. EXAMPLE :

If you simultaneously ask ‚½ Overlap GN8’ +0.5 cm and ‚½ Chest width (overlap) GN40’ -0.5 cm, than both adjustments mostly cancel each other at chest level.

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Chest • ½ Back width (CBS) GN26

MAKE ½ BACK WIDTH LARGER

MAKE ½ BACK WIDTH SMALLER

The back tightens in the area of the ½ back width.

Length-wise pleats form. The back is not fitted to the body in the area of the ½ back width.

The shortage of back width is a value you estimate.

The excess of fabric on both sides of the center back seam (at back height) has to be pinned away (vertically). You note ½ depth of the fold in the field ‚½ Back width (CBS) GN26’.

The back part at back width will be made wider or smaller by 100% of the found value on CBS. Picture shows reducement of back width on CBS.

ORIENTATION VALUES

Light 0,3 cm / Strong 0,5 cm The maximal values are to be found in our B2B system and depend on the chosen model.

Increase often in combination with: • Round back (GN19+)

Reduction often in combination with: • Erect figure (GN10-)

Increase possible in combination with: • Shoulder width (shoulder-arm point) - (GN9-)

Reduction possible in combination with: • Shoulder width (shoulder-arm point) + (GN9+)

Increase never in combination with: • ½ Waist & ½ Hem (CBS) - (GN25-) • ½ Collar diameter (CBS)- (GN23-)

Reduction never in combination with: • Waist & ½ Hem (CBS)+ (GN25+)

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POSSIBILITIES TO ADJUST ON THE CENTER BACK SEAM

In need of adjustment on CBS, you have the following possibilities: • ½ Waist and ½ Hem (½Waist & ½ Hem (CBS) GN25) • ½ Back width (½ Back width (CBS) GN26) • Reduction ½ Collar diameter (½ Collar diameter (CBS) GN23-) • Complete center back seam (½Waist & ½ Hem (CBS Collar - hem) GN36)

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Shoulder • Shoulder width (Shoulder-arm point) GN9

You can make the shoulder width larger or smaller at the shoulder-arm point. In most cases this is a purely esthetic alteration. The waistcoat doesn’t have to be in balance to determine the shoulder width, but it has to be correctly on the shoulders!

The shoulder width will be made larger or smaller by 100% of the found value, at the shoulder-arm point. Picture shows larger.

ORIENTATION VALUES

Increase: Light 0,3 cm / Medium 0,6 cm / Strong 1 cm Reduction: Light 0,5 cm / Medium 1 cm / Strong 1,5 cm The maximal values are to be found in our B2B system and depend on the chosen model.

These two alteriations have an influence on the shoulder width: • Shoulder width (Shoulder-arm point) GN9 • ½ Collar diameter (Shoulder-neck point) GN41

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Shoulder • ½ Collar diameter (Shoulder-neck point) GN41

TO MAKE COLLAR DIAMETER LARGER

TO MAKE COLLAR DIAMETER SMALLER

The neck ‘shoves’ the neckline to the outside, the collar diameter is too small. As a result, strain appears on the collar and with it, small pleats, mainly on the shoulder point.

In the case of a slim neck, a gap appears between the neck and the neckline of the waistcoat, the collar diameter is to large. Make sure that the this is not a result of an ‘Bent posture’, ‘S Figure’ or a ‘Round back’. A case of square shoulders can also lead to a protruding neckline.

The ½ collar diameter at shoulder-neck point will be made wider or smaller by 100% of the found value. Therefore the shoulder width will become wider or smaller with the same value. Picture shows reducement of ½ collar diameter.

ORIENTATION VALUES

Light 0,5 cm / Medium 1 cm The maximal values are to be found in our B2B system and depend on the chosen model.

Increase rarely in combination with: • Prominent chest (GN13)

Reduction often in combination with: • Round back (GN19+) • Bent figure (GN10+) Reduction possible in combination with: • ½ Collar diameter (CBS) - (GN23-)

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DIFFERENTIATING BETWEEN ‚ROUND BACK’ AND ‚TOO-LARGE COLLAR DIAMETER’

When dealing with a protruding neckline, please first exclude the case of a round back. In the case of a round back, the back length is too short, the back «pulls» the waistcoat in the back away from the neck. In case of a slim neck, gaps appears sideways between the neck and the jacket collar. A combination of both is obviously also possible. If this is the case you better reduce the collar diameter in center back ‚½ Collar diameter (CBS) GN23-‚ (maximum of 0.5 cm is possible) together with the adjustment(s) for ‚Round back GN19+’ and possibly ‚Bent Figure GN10+’.

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Shoulder • ½ Collar diameter (CBS) GN23-

In case of a slim neck in combination with ‚Bent figure’, ‚S-figure’ or ‚Round back’, gaps appears between the neck and the waistcoat neckline. In this case you better reduce the collar diameter in center back ‚½ Collar diameter (CBS) GN23-’ (maximum of 0.5 cm is possible) together with the adjustment(s) for ‚Round back GN19+’ and / or possibly ‚Bent Figure GN10+’.

The excess of fabric, on both sides of the center back seam on the neckline, has to be pinned away. You note ½ depth of the fold in the field ‚½ Collar diameter (CBS) GN23’.

The ½ collar diameter at the center back seam will be made smaller by 100% of the found value.

ORIENTATION VALUES

Maximum possible reduction = 0.5 cm

Often in combination with: • Round back (GN19+) • Bent figure (GN 10+) Possible in combination with: • ½ Collar diameter (Shoulder-neck point)- (GN41-) Never in combination with: • ½ Back width (CBS) + (GN26+)

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TIPS

DIFFERENTIATING BETWEEN ‚ROUND BACK’ AND ‚TOO-LARGE COLLAR DIAMETER’

When dealing with a protruding neckline, please first exclude the case of a round back. In the case of a round back, the back length is too short, the back «pulls» the waistcoat in the back away from the neck. In case of a slim neck, gaps appears sideways between the neck and the jacket collar. A combination of both is obviously also possible. If this is the case you better reduce the collar diameter in center back ‚½ Collar diameter (CBS) GN23-‚ (maximum of 0.5 cm is possible) together with the adjustment(s) for ‚Round back GN19+’ and possibly ‚Bent Figure GN10+’.

POSSIBILITIES TO ADJUST ON THE CENTER BACK SEAM

In need of adjustment on CBS, you have the following possibilities: • ½ Waist and ½ Hem (½Waist & ½ Hem (CBS) GN25) • ½ Back width (½ Back width (CBS) GN26) • Reduction ½ Collar diameter (½ Collar diameter (CBS) GN23-) • Complete center back seam (½Waist & ½ Hem (CBS Collar - hem) GN36)

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Shoulder • Sloping shoulder GN11There’s an excess of fabric in the shoulder area.

The excess of fabric on the shoulder seam has to be pinned away (horizontally); this from the shoulderarm point till nothing on the neckline. The total depth of the thus created pleat gives the value for ‘Sloping shoulder(s)’, the shoulder slope will change by 50% of this found value. The value for left and right sloping shoulders can differ.

The shoulderarmpoint in front and back part will be put lower by 50% of the found value, on both parts, till nothing on the shoulder-neck point. The armhole opening will become smaller.

ORIENTATION VALUES

Light 1 cm / Medium 2 cm / Strong 4 cm The maximal values are to be found in our B2B system and depend on the chosen model Often in combination with: • Round back (GN 19+) Rarely in combination with: • Square shoulder on 1 side (GN 11+) in case of assymetry • Pleat under collar (GN 19-)

When you order a waistcoat we apply the balance alteration, the shoulderslope and the width partition you indicated for the jacket on the waistcoat. For the shoulderslope; we halve the value you indicated for the jacket, since we take into account the shorter shoulderline of the waistcoat.

185


Shoulder • Square shoulder GN11+ Cross pleats form on the back below the collar, which is also visible on the front. The waistcoat neckline has the tendency of going up and away from the neck, the front edges can possibly run apart at the seam. These cross pleats should not be confused with ‚Pleat under collar GN19-‚ that is only visible on the back.

The formed pleat on the shoulder seam has to be pinned away (horizontally); this from the neckline till nothing on the shoulder-arm point The total depth of the thus created pleat gives the value for ‘Square shoulder(s)’, the shoulder slope will change by 50% of this found value. The value for left and right square shoulders can differ. In the case of assymetry, a tension pleat forms at the square shoulder, the pinned pleat is larger on this side.

The shoulder-armpoint in front and back part will be put higher by 50% of the found value, on both front and back part, till nothing on the shoulder-neck point. The armhole opening will become larger.

ORIENTATION VALUES

Light 1 cm / Medium 2 cm / Strong 3 cm The maximal values are to be found in our B2B system and depend on the chosen model

Often in combination with : • Erect posture (GN 10-) Rarely in combination with : • Sloping shoulder on 1 side (GN 11-) in case of asymetry • Round back (GN 19+)

When you order a waistcoat we apply the balance alteration, the shoulderslope and the width partition you indicated for the jacket on the waistcoat. For the shoulderslope; we halve the value you indicated for the jacket, since we take into account the shorter shoulderline of the waistcoat.

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TIPS

DIFFERENCE BETWEEN ‚SQUARE SHOULDER(S)’ AND ‚PLEAT UNDER COLLAR’

There is always a cross pleat below the neckline, however: • ‚Pleat under collar GN19-’: this cross pleat is visible only on the back. The front edges run parallel to the hem. • In the case of ‚Square shoulder(s) GN11+’: this cross pleat is also visible on the front section. The front edges run apart towards the hem.

187


Armhole • Armhole diameter GN15

MAKE ARMHOLE DIAMETER WIDER

MAKE ARMHOLE DIAMETER SMALLER

The armhole diameter affects the comfort in the chest area. If the armhole diameter is too small, the customer feels restricted and cramped in his movements. A typical example for this is a very athletic figure.

The waistcoat does not fit the body in the chest area; it is too large.

When increasing a armhole diameter that is too small, an estimated or experience-based value is applied. If the armhole diameter needs to be reduced, you pinn away the excess of fabric on the sideseams under the armhole (on both sides). Once the comfort level is to the customer’s expectations, measure the content of the pinned pleat and provide us with this value in cm in the field ‚armhole diameter GN15’.

The front and back part will be made smaller or wider on the side seam under the armhole by 100% of the found value. The armhole diameter has an influence on the chest width. Picture shows larger.

RICHTWAARDEN

Licht 0,5 cm / Medium 1 cm / Sterk 2 cm The maximal values are to be found in our B2B system and depend on the chosen model.

Increase often in combination with: • Prominent chest (GN13) Increase rarely in combination with: • ½ Waist (Side seams) - (GN6-) • ½ Waist & ½ Hem ( Side seams) - (GN20-) Increase never in combination with: • ½ Waist (Side seams) - (GN6-) with larger values • ½ Waist & ½ Hem (Side seams) - (GN20-) with larger values

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TIPS

EXCEEDING MAXIMUM VALUE OF ‚PROMINENT CHEST’

It is possible, in case of extreme prominent chest, that the maximum value of 1 cm prominent chest is exceeded. If so, you can add extra chest width by using additional to ‚Prominent chest’ the alteration ‚Armhole diameter GN15+’. When the found value is very high, we advice you to take 1 size larger. It is very likely that the front part also goes up in center front, this due to prominent chest. Than you assess the missing front length, and note this in the field ‚Front length (shoulder-neck point) longer GN43+’.

THE COMBINATION OF ADJUSTMENTS WITH LARGER VALUES

Certain combinations of adjustments are not possible in case of larger values. With smaller values this problem does not occur, since the smooth line of the patterns isn’t compromised. EXAMPLE :

‚Armhole diameter GN15’ is not possible in combination with ‚½ Waist (Side seams) GN6-’ in case of larger values. If the armhole diameter is made a great deal larger, and this in combination with a strongly reduced waist width, the line on the sides will not be smooth and natural. A nice fitting is not attainable.

189


Armhole • Depth of armhole GN30

MAKE DEPTH OF ARMHOLE HIGHER

MAKE DEPTH OF ARMHOLE DEEPER

With a higher cut armhole in combination with a well fitted waistcoat (in width) you can create a tight look.

The armhole is uncomfortable to the customer, since it is too high and consequently too small. This problem occurs seldom for the waistcoat.

Please provide us with the amount to alter the armhole diameter in cm. Give an estimated or experience based value. When entering ‚Depth of armhole higher GN30+’, the armhole will become smaller. If you request ‚Depth of armhole deeper GN30-’, you will obtain a larger armhole. B2B indication: higher + and lower -

With this change the lowest point of the armhole (underarm point) will be put higher or deeper by 100% of the found value. Picture shows higher.

ORIENTATION VALUES

Light 0.5 cm / Medium 1 cm / Strong 1.5 cm The maximal values are to be found in our B2B system and depend on the chosen model.

Deeper rarely in combination with: • Sloping shoulder(s) (GN11-) with larger values

190


Waist- and Hem width - Introduction You can decide where ½ Waistcoat should be adapted. If you only want to change the waist you have the following possibility:

½ Waist (Side seams) GN6

You have 3 possibilities to adapt the chest, waist and seat width at the same time:

½ Overlap GN8

½ Chest & ½ Waist & ½ Hem (Side seams) GN98

½ Waist & ½ Hem (CBS collar - hem) GN36

You have 2 possibilities to adapt the waist and seat width at the same time:

½ Waist & ½ Hem (CBS) GN25

½ Waist & ½ Hem (Side seams) GN20

You have 1 possibility to adapt the seat width:

½ Hem (Side seams) GN7 -

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MAKE ½WAISTCOAT AND/OR ½HEM LARGER

MAKE ½WAISTCOAT AND/OR ½HEM SMALLER

It is almost or not possible to close the waistcoat, it is to small, the frontedges remain open. In case of a strongly developed behind the waistcoat will be to tight or even get stuck on hip area.

The waistcoat is to large on waist and / or hem and the frontedges overlap eachother.

The waistcoat has to be in balance so the front edges run paralell. Position the front parts so, that the waistcoat feels comfortable for your client. The waistcoat stands open (there’s a gap between both front edges). To determine the needed extra width, measure the distance from the middle of the button till the eye of the corresponding buttonhole on waist height allover the gap. This value has to be divided by 2.

The waistcoat has to be in balance so the front edges run paralell. When the front part overlap over the full length, and therefore are to large on chest, waist , and hem height, you can make ½ Overlap smaller. To determine the needed extra width, you slide the left front part (with buttonholes) over the right front part till the waistcoat feels comfortable for your client. You can now put a pin through the eye of the buttonhole on the right front part, at waist height. Measure the distance between the pin and the middle of the button on waist height allover the gap. This value has to be divided by 2 and put in field ‚½ Overlap GN8-’. Make sure the value is not to high (not above 2 cm).

The values by which you want to make ½ waistcoat width and / or ½ hem larger, have to be divided, according as the client’s figure, over the available fields. These fields are only available in B2B

In case you want to take off even more on ½ waistcoat width and / or ½ hem, you can pin it away on all corresponding seams. Make sure to pin off equally on both sides of the waistcoat. The values are to be divided, according as the client’s figure, over the available fields. These fields are only available in B2B

When changing ½ waistcoat, please fill in the ‚Finished Measurement ½ waistcoat width’. You keep in mind all adjustments that influence ½ waistcoat. EXAMPLE :

The trial waistcoat has ½ waistcoat width = 52 cm. You want to add 2 cm extra on ½ waistcoat and ½ hem. Based on the client’s figure you choose the following adjustments: ‚½ Overlap’ + 0.5 cm; ‚½ Waist & ½ Hem (Side seams)’ + 1 cm; ‚½ Waist & ½ Hem (CBS)’ + 0.5 cm. The ‚Finished Measurement ½ Waistcoat width ’ becomes 54 cm . You note: GN8 +0.5 cm; GN20 +1 cm; GN25 +0.5 cm; Finished Measurement ½Waistcoat width = 54 cm. If you note a finished measurement for ½ waistcoat, we will respect this finished measurement. If this finished measurement doesn’t correspond to the demanded adjustment(s) we will use the given adjustment as a guide line for the division of ½ waistcoat, but always by respecting the demanded finished measurement. This is the basic rule for all demanded finished measurements. If you only fill in the field of ‚Finished Measurement ½ Waistcoat width’, and don’t inform us where you want more or less width, we will divide it even allover ½ Waistcoat. If you don’t give any adjustments or a value for ‚½ Waistcoat width’, you will receive the standard finished measurement for ½ Waistcoat width of the stated waistcoat size. In case of large alterations on the waistwidth we also adapt the hem, this to maintain a nice line flow. Before you begin the measurements, you should make sure that the waistcoat is in balance. If necessary, you should bring it into balance. The guideline to determine ½ Waistcoat width = ½ Jacket - 1 cm.

192


Waist- and Hem width - ½ Overlap GN8 You apply this alteration when the front sections are equally too wide or too flat on the chest, waist and hem. Otherwise, you enter for example ‚Prominent chest GN13’, ‚½ Chest width (Overlap) GN40’, ‚½ Waist (Side seams) GN6’ or ‚½ Hem (Side seams) GN7’. Determining the alterations to be done: See Introduction Waist – and Hem width Please provide in any case the finished measurement for the desired ½ waistcoat width for control purposes. When doing so, please take any alteration that has an effect on the ½ waistcoat width width into consideration. EXAMPLE

The try-on garment has a ½ waistcoat width of 52 cm. You would like to reduce the ½ overlap by 0.5 cm. The new Finished Measurement ½ Waistcoat width amounts to: 52 cm - 0.5 cm = 51.5 cm

The front part will be made smaller or wider by 100% of the found value at the middle front edges at chest,waist and hem height. Picture shows increase of overlap.

ORIENTATION VALUES

Light 0.5 cm / Medium 1 cm / Strong 2 cm The maximal values are to be found in our B2B system and depend on the chosen model

Increase often in combination with: • Prominent chest (GN13)

Reduction rarely in combination with: • Prominent chest (GN13)

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TIPS

‚½ OVERLAP’ AND ‚PROMINENT CHEST’

The alteration ‚½ Overlap’ as well as ‚Prominent chest’ affect the chest dimension. EXAMPLE:

If ‚½ Overlap GN8’ is reduced by 1cm and ‚Prominent chest GN13’ is simultaneously given 1cm the alteration of the chest width is completely reversed. Only the enhanced chestdart gives the front section extra form.

DISTRIBUTE ADJUSTMENTS OVER AS MUCH FIELDS AS POSSIBLE

If there are big size adjustments in the waist and hem width, these should be distributed as evenly as possible, but of course with respect to the figure type. These fields are only available in B2B. You can use the following fields: • ½ Overlap GN8 • ½ Waist & ½ Hem (Side seams) GN20 • ½ Waist (Side seams) GN6 • ½ Waist & ½ Hem (CBS) GN25 • ½ Waist & ½ Hem (CBS Collar – Hem) GN36

194


Waist- and Hem width - ½ Waist (Side seams) GN6 You use this adjustment when you want to make the side seam at waist height smaller or wider.

Determining the alterations to be done: See Introduction Waist – and Hem width

Please provide in any case the finished measurement for the desired ½ waistcoat width for control purposes. When doing so, please take any alteration that has an effect on the ½ waistcoat width width into consideration. EXAMPLE

The try-on garment has a ½ waistcoat width of 52 cm. You would like to reduce the ½ waist by 1 cm. The new Finished Measurement ½ Waistcoat width amounts to: 52 cm - 1 cm = 51 cm

The waist at the sideseams in front and back part will be made smaller or wider by in total 100% of the found value. Picture shows ½ waist smaller.

ORIENTATION VALUES

Light 0.5 cm / Medium 1 cm / Strong 1.5 cm The maximal values are to be found in our B2B system and depend on the chosen model.

Increase never in combination with: • ½ Hem (Side seams) - (GN7-)

Reduction often in combination with: • ½ Hem (Side seams) - (GN7-) Reduction rarely in combination with: • Armhole diameter + (GN15+)

Reduction never in combination with: • Armhole diameter + (GN15+) with larger values

To ensure a smooth line flow, and therefore a good fitting, it is logical to adapt ½ waist in the same direction as ½ hem.

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TIPS

DISTRIBUTE ADJUSTMENTS OVER AS MUCH FIELDS AS POSSIBLE

If there are big size adjustments in the waist and hem width, these should be distributed as evenly as possible, but of course with respect to the figure type. These fields are only available in B2B.

196


Waist- and Hem width - ½ Waist & ½ Hem (CBS) GN25 You use this adjustment when there is too much or too little dimension /width in the centre back seam at waist and hem.

Determining the alterations to be done: See Introduction Waist – and Hem width Please provide in any case the finished measurement for the desired ½ waistcoat width for control purposes. When doing so, please take any alteration that has an effect on the ½ waistcoat width into consideration. EXAMPLE

The try-on garment has a ½ waistcoat width of 52 cm. You would like to reduce ½ waist & ½ hem at CBS by 0.5 cm. The new Finished Measurement ½ Waistcoat width amounts to: 52 cm – 0.5 cm = 51.5 cm.

The back part will be made smaller or wider by 100% of the found value at the CBS at waist and hem. Picture shows ½ waist & ½ hem at CBS smaller.

ORIENTATION VALUES

Light 0.5 cm / Strong 1 cm The maximal values are to be found in our B2B system and depend on the chosen model.

Increase never in combination with: • ½ Back width (CBS) - (V26-)

Reduction often in combination with: • ½ Hem (Side seams) - (GN7-) • ½ Waist (Side seams)) – (GN6-) Reduction never in combination with • ½ Back width (CBS) + (GN 26+)

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TIPS

DISTRIBUTE ADJUSTMENTS OVER AS MUCH FIELDS AS POSSIBLE

If there are big size adjustments in the waist and hem width, these should be distributed as evenly as possible, but of course with respect to the figure type. These fields are only available in B2B.

POSSIBILITIES TO ADJUST ON THE CENTER BACK SEAM

In need of adjustment on CBS, you have the following possibilities: • ½ Waist and ½ Hem (½Waist & ½ Hem (CBS) GN25) • ½ Back width (½ Back width (CBS) GN26) • Reduction ½ Collar diameter (½ Collar diameter (CBS) GN23-) • Complete center back seam (½Waist & ½ Hem (CBS Collar - hem) GN36)

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Waist- and Hem width - ½ Waist & ½ Hem (Side seams) GN20

You use this adjustment when you want to make the side seam of back part at waist- and hem height smaller or wider.

Determining the alterations to be done: See Introduction Waist – and Hem width

Please provide in any case the finished measurement for the desired ½ waistcoat width for control purposes. When doing so, please take any alteration that has an effect on the ½ waistcoat width into consideration.

The waist and hem at the side seams in front and back part will be made smaller or wider by in total 100% of the found value. Picture shows smaller.

ORIENTATION VALUES

Increase: Light 1 cm / Medium 2 cm / Strong 3 cm Decrease: Light 0,5 cm / Medium 1.5 cm / Strong 2.5 cm The maximal values are to be found in our B2B system and depend on the chosen model.

Reduction rarely in combination with: • Armhole diameter + (GN15+)

Reduction never in combination with: • Armhole diameter + (GN15+) with larger values

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TIPS

DISTRIBUTE ADJUSTMENTS OVER AS MUCH FIELDS AS POSSIBLE

If there are big size adjustments in the waist and hem width, these should be distributed as evenly as possible, but of course with respect to the figure type. These fields are only available in B2B.

200


Waist- and Hem width: ½ Waist & ½ Hem (CBS Collar - Hem) GN36 You use this adjustment when you want to make the center back seam over full length (= on collar, back width, waist and hem) smaller or wider.

Determining the alterations to be done: See Introduction Waist- and Hem width, ½ Back width (CBS) GN26 and ½ Collar diameter (CBS) GN23-.

Please provide in any case the finished measurement for the desired ½ waistcoat width for control purposes. When doing so, please take any alteration that has an effect on the ½ waistcoat width into consideration.

The back part will be made smaller or wider by 100% of the found value over the full length of the CBS. Picture shows smaller.

ORIENTATION VALUES

Maximum value possible 0.5 cm

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TIPS

DISTRIBUTE ADJUSTMENTS OVER AS MUCH FIELDS AS POSSIBLE

If there are big size adjustments in the waist and hem width, these should be distributed as evenly as possible, but of course with respect to the figure type. These fields are only available in B2B.

POSSIBILITIES TO ADJUST ON THE CENTER BACK SEAM

In need of adjustment on CBS, you have the following possibilities: • ½ Waist and ½ Hem (½Waist & ½ Hem (CBS) GN25) • ½ Back width (½ Back width (CBS) GN26) • Reduction ½ Collar diameter (½ Collar diameter (CBS) GN23-) • Complete center back seam (½Waist & ½ Hem (CBS Collar - Hem) GN36)

202


Waist- and Hem width - ½ Chest & ½ Waist & ½ Hem (Side seams) • GN98 You use this adjustment when you want to make the waistcoat on chest, waist and hem height equally smaller or wider.

Determining the alterations to be done: See Introduction Waist – and Hem width

Please provide in any case the finished measurement for the desired ½ waistcoat width for control purposes. When doing so, please take any alteration that has an effect on the ½ waistcoat width into consideration. EXAMPLE

The try-on garment has a ½ waistcoat width of 52 cm. You would like to reduce the side seams by 0.5 cm. The new Finished Measurement ½ Waistcoat width amounts to: 52 cm – 0.5 cm = 51.5 cm.

The chest, waist and hem at the side seams in front and back part will be made smaller or wider by in total 100% of the found value. Picture shows smaller.

ORIENTATION VALUES

Light 1 cm / Medium 2 cm / Strong 3 cm The maximal values are to be found in our B2B system and depend on the chosen model.

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TIPS

DISTRIBUTE ADJUSTMENTS OVER AS MUCH FIELDS AS POSSIBLE

If there are big size adjustments in the waist- and hem width, these should be distributed as evenly as possible, but of course with respect to the figure type. These fields are only available in B2B.

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Waist- and Hem width • Finished Measurement ½ Waistcoat width

MEASURE GUIDE LINE FOR FINISHED MEASUREMENT ½ WAISTCOAT WIDTH

Lay the waistcoat flat on the tabel and measure on waist height (smallest part of the jacket) the distance from the front edge till the center back seam.

Please provide in any case the finished measurement for the desired ½ Waistcoat width for control purposes. When doing so, please take any alteration that has an effect on the ½ Waistcoat width into consideration. If you note a finished measurement for ½ Waistcoatwidth, we will respect this finished measurement. If this finished measurement doesn’t correspond to the demanded adjustment(s) we will use the given adjustment as a guideline for the division of ½ waistcoat width, but always by respecting the demanded finished measurement. This is the basic rule for all demanded finished measurements.

Also read ‚Introduction Waist and Hem width’. You will find there a summary of all adjustments that will influence the finished measurement ½ Waistcoat width.

205


TIPS

CONTROL CALCULATION OF THE’ FINISHED MEASUREMENT ½ WAISTCOAT WIDTH’

½ Waistcoat width ≅ ½ Waist (= body measurement) + 3 till 5 cm ½ Waistcoat width ≅ ½ Jacket -1 cm

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Waist- and hem width • ½ Hem (Side seams) GN7-

You use this adjustment when you want to make the waistcoat on the hem equally smaller or wider.

Determining the alterations to be done: See Introduction Waist – and Hem width

The hem on the side seams in front and back part will be made smaller by 100% of the found value. To ensure a nice line flow it is not possible to broaden the hem on this position. Picture shows smaller

ORIENTATION VALUES

Reduction: Light 0.5 cm / Medium 1 cm / Strong 1.5 cm The maximal values are to be found in our B2B system and depend on the chosen model.

Reduction often in combination with: • ½ Waist (Side seams) – (GN6-) Reduction never in combination with: • ½ Waist (Side seams) + (GN6+)

To ensure a smooth line flow, and therefore a good fitting, it is logical to adapt ½ waist in the same direction as ½ hem.

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Length • Waistcoat length GN1

If you want to adapt the Waistcoat length, you note your adjustment in the field ‚Waistcoat length GN1’ or note the finished measurement in the field ‚Finished Measurement Waistcoat length’. You need to take into account all adjustments on the back height which have an influence on the waistcoat length. These adjustments are: ‚Erect figure GN10-’, ‚Bent figure GN10+’, ‚Round back GN19+’ and ‚Pleat under collar GN19-’.

The waistcoat length will be made shorter or longer by 100% of the found value, at the hem in front and back part. The waist and pocket level will follow this direction by 50% of the demanded value. By the Cutaway and Tailcoat the button height will be adapted to keep the proportion of the front part. Picture shows longer.

ORIENTATION VALUES

Light 1 cm / Medium 3 cm / Strong 5 cm The maximal values are to be found in our B2B system and depend on the chosen model.

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TIPS

DETERMINING THE WAISTCOAT LENGTH WITH ‚ERECT POSTURE’

Measure along the centre back seam, from the neckline to the hem when the waistcoat is in balance, i.e. across the pins of the erect posture adjustment. EXAMPLE 1:

The try-on garment has a waistcoat length of 58 cm. You have pinned 2 cm of back length and noted ‚Erect posture GN10’ –2 cm. The client finds this jacket length to his liking. You now measure a waistcoat length of 56 cm. You note this value in the field ‚Finished Measurement Waistcoat length’. EXAMPLE 2:

The try-on garment has a waistcoat length of 58 cm. You have pinned 2 cm of back length and noted ‚Erect figure GN10’ –2 cm. The client finds this jacket length 3 cm too short. You now measure a jacket length of 56 cm. You note however: 56 cm + 3 cm = 59 cm in the field ‚Finished Measurement Waistcoat length’.

DETERMINE WAISTCOAT LENGTH WITH ‚PLEAT UNDER COLLAR’

Measure along the centre back seam, from the neckline to the hem when the waistcoat is in balance, i.e. across the pins of the pleat under collar adjustment.. EXAMPLE 1:

The try-on garment has a waistcoat length of 58 cm. You have pinned 1cm of pleat under collar and noted ‚Pleat under collar GN19’ - 1 cm. The client finds this waistcoat length to his liking. You now measure a waistcoat length of 57 cm. You note this value in the field ‚Finished Measurement Waistcoat length’. EXAMPLE 2:

The try-on garment has a waistcoat length of 58 cm. You have pinned 1 cm of pleat under collar and noted ‚Pleat under collar GN19’ - 1 cm. The client finds this jacket length 3 cm too short. You now measure a waistcoat length of 57 cm. You note however: 57 cm + 3 cm = 60 cm in the field ‚Finished Measurement Waistcoat length’. DETERMINE WAISTCOAT LENGTH’ WITH ‚BENT FIGURE’ OR ‚ROUND BACK’

Measure along the centre back seam, from the neckline to the hem when the jacket is in balance and add the necessary additional back length. EXAMPLE 1:

The try-on garment has a waistcoat length of 58cm. You need 2 cm of additional back length, due to bent figure or a round back. The waistcoat is in balance, and therefore 2cm slid to the back. The client finds this waistcoat length to his liking. You measure 58 cm of waistcoat length and add 2 cm. You note this value (60 cm) in the field ‚Finished Measurement Waistcoat length’. You also note: ‚Bent figure GN10’ + 2 cm or ‚Round back GN19’ + 2 cm or you divide this 2cm over both fields: ‚Bent figure GN10’ + 1 cm and ‚Round back GN19’ + 1 cm. EXAMPLE 2:

The try-on garment has a waistcoat length of 58cm. You need 2cm of additional back length, due to bent figure or a round back. The waistcoat is in balance, and therefore 2cm slid to the back. The client finds this waistcoat length 3cm too short. You measure 58 cm of waistcoat length and add 2 cm + 3 cm. You note 58 cm + 2 cm + 3 cm = 63 cm in the field ‚Finished Measurement Waistcoat length’. You also note: ‚Bent figure GN10’ + 2 cm or ‚Round back GN19’ + 2 cm or you divide this 2cm over both fields: ‚Bent figure GN10’ + 1 cm and ‚Round back GN19’ + 1 cm. To avoid errors, you can put the the tape measure at 2 cm (= value needed for adjustment) to neckline and than measure the waistcoat length along the centre back seam to the hem.

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Length • Finished Measurement Waistcoat length

MEASURE GUIDE LINE FOR FINISHED MEASUREMENT WAISTCOAT LENGTH

Measure along the centre back seam from the neckline to the hem when the waistcoat is in balance. If you have to determine waistcoat length without a try-on garment, you measure from the neckline seam for the shirt till the desired waistcoat length.

Please provide in any case the ‘Finished Measurement Waistcoat length’ for control purposes. When doing so, please take any alteration that has an effect on the waistcoat length into consideration. You need to take into account all adjustments on the back height which have an influence on the waistcoat length. These adjustments are: ‚Erect figure’, ‚Bent figure’, ‚Round back’ and ‚Pleat under collar’. The classic waistcoat length is somewhere in between the belt and the back pockets of the trousers. When determining the desired waistcoat length you should follow the individual wishes of the customer.

210


TIPS

THE NUMBRE OF BUTTONS

In case of large changes on the opening (CBS-highest button) of the waistcoat length, the quantity of the buttons is adapted to the length of the front part. Example: When making the position of the 1st button higher and waistcoat length longer; we place here, if necessary, more buttons to make sure that the distance between the buttons remains approximately equal as on the standard waistcoat. With the options W17 (5 buttons) and W18 (7buttons) you can determine the quantity of the placed buttons.

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Length / details • Finished Measurement Front length (CBS – point FP)

MEASURE GUIDE LINE FOR FINISHED MEASUREMENT FRONT LENGTH

Measure from center back seam along the neckline (collar) till the shoulder-neck point, and from there on in a straight line till point on the bottom of the waistcoat. In case of a straight hem you measure till the hem of the waistcoat in front. In case you determine the frontlength without a try on garment, measure the distance from the center back of the vertebra till the desired position of the point of the waistcoat.

Make sure the waistcoat is in balance when determening the front length. If the neckline of the waistcoat is not in the correct position due to balance problems, you need to measure from the vertebra and not the center back seam of the waistcoat. You need to take into account all adjustments on the waistcoat length GN1. It is not possible to change the front length for the Cutaway and Tailcoat.

The classic waistcoat length is aproximately 5 to 6 cm under the seam of the waistband. When determining the desired waistcoat length you should follow the individual wishes of the customer.

The front length will be made shorter or longer at the hem in front part depending the desired finished measurement. Picture shows longer

ORIENTATION VALUES

Increase: Light 1 cm / Medium 2.2 cm / Strong 3.5 cm Decrease : Light 1 cm / Medium 1.8 cm / Strong 2.5 cm The maximal values are to be found in our B2B system and depend on the chosen model.

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TIPS

THE NUMBRE OF BUTTONS

In case of large changes on the opening (CBS-highest button) of the waistcoat length, the quantity of the buttons is adapted to the length of the front part. Example: When making the position of the 1st button higher and waistcoat length longer; we place here, if necessary, more buttons to make sure that the distance between the buttons remains approximately equal as on the standard waistcoat. With the options W17 (5 buttons) and W18 (7buttons) you can determine the quantity of the placed buttons.

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Length / details • Opening (highest button) lower / higher GN14

When you want to change the position of the highest button (higher or lower), you note the found value in the field ‚Opening (highest button) higher / lower GN14’. Balance adjustments influence the buttonlevel. You need to take into account all adjustments on the button level caused by the adjustements ‚ Waistcoat length GN1’, ‚Finished Measurement Waistcoat length’, except for the Cutaway and the Tailcoat (see description Waistcoat length GN1). Attention: values you note in these fields will be completely carried out, and not converted. However, if you give the finished measurement of the button level, we will respect this measurement. (See tips) Exceptions on this rule are the Cutaway and the Tailcoat. For these models it is not possible to change the button height, since the proportions of the front part have to be preserved. B2B indication: higher + and lower -

The highest button will be put higher or lower with 100% of the found value. The other buttons will follow proportionally. In case of a large change of button height the quantity of the buttons will be adapted to the new length of the vertical edge (see tip). The picture shows lower.

ORIENTATION VALUES

Light 1 cm / Medium 3,5 cm / Strong 6 cm The maximal values are to be found in our B2B system and depend on the chosen model.

214


TIPS

VERY STOUT

For these clients we advice a waistcoat with lower closure. Waistcoats with a higher closure are discouraged since the vertical edges of front part above the stomach will collapse (cave in). THE NUMBRE OF BUTTONS

In case of large changes on the opening (CBS-highest button) of the waistcoat length, the quantity of the buttons is adapted to the length of the front part. Example: When making the position of the 1st button higher and waistcoat length longer; we place here, if necessary, more buttons to make sure that the distance between the buttons remains approximately equal as on the standard waistcoat. With the options W17 (5 buttons) and W18 (7buttons) you can determine the quantity of the placed buttons.

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Length / details • Finished Measurement Opening (CBS – highest button)

MEASURE GUIDE LINE FOR FINISHED MEASUREMENT OPENING

Measure from center back seam along the neckline (collar) till the shoulder-neck point, and from there on in a straight line till the middle of the highest button. In case you determine the opening without a try on garment, you lay the measurement tape from the middle of the button all around the neck till the buttonhole. You divide this found value in 2 and note this in the field ‚Finished Measurements Opening (CBS – highest button)’. Since the first method is the most accurate, we prefer you use this to establish the ‚Finished Measurement Opening (CBS – highest button)’. During measurement the waistcoat has to be in balance , the neckline of the waistcoat has to be in the correct position, meaning against the neck,.

If you don’t give a value for 'Finished Measurement Button level (CBS – highest button)’, ‚Button level (highest button) GN14’ or other adjustments who influence the button level, you will receive the standard finished measurement for button level of the stated jacket size. Other adjustments which influence the position of the highest button: • Erect figure GN10• Bent figure GN10+ • Round back GN19+ (only influence with Cutaway and Tailcoat) • Pleat under collar GN19- (only influence with Cutaway and Tailcoat) • Front length (Shoulder-neck point) GN43 • ½ Collar diameter (CBS) GN23• ½ Collar diameter (Shoulder-neck point) GN41 Attention: values you note in these fields will be completely carried out, and not converted. However, if you give the finished measurement of the button level, we will respect this measurement. Exceptions on this rule are the Cutaway and the Tailcoat. For these models it is not possible to change the button height, since the proportions of the front part have to be preserved.

When determening the desired opening you have to take into account, the individual wishes of the customer and at the same time the button height of the combined jacket (2-buttons or 3-buttons closure).

216


TIPS

THE NUMBRE OF BUTTONS

In case of large changes on the opening (CBS-highest button) of the waistcoat length, the quantity of the buttons is adapted to the length of the front part. Example: When making the position of the 1st button higher and waistcoat length longer; we place here, if necessary, more buttons to make sure that the distance between the buttons remains approximately equal as on the standard waistcoat. With the options W17 (5 buttons) and W18 (7buttons) you can determine the quantity of the placed buttons.

STOUT PERSON

For these clients we advice a waistcoat where the highest button is placed lower.

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Other • Overlap (lower level) open / close GN31

The value to adapt the frontform has to be estimated. In most cases this is a purely fashion / visual based adjustement. B2B indication: close + and open -

Make sure the waistcoat is in balance and that the vertical front edges run parallel when you assess the frontform. Also take into account the adjustments on Front length and ½ Overlap GN8. This adjustment is not possible for the Cutaway and the Tailcoat.

The overlap on the bottom of the front part will be closed or opened by 100% of the found value. The waist and seat width will not change. Picutre shows open overlap.

ORIENTATION VALUES

Light 0.5 cm / Strong 1 cm The maximal values are to be found in our B2B system and depend on the chosen model.

Open often in combination with: • Deeper pocketdart (GN17)

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Summary: alterations waistcoat – by code. CODE

ALTERATION

CHAPTER

PAGE

GN1 GN6 GN7GN8 GN9 GN10GN10+ GN11GN11+ GN13 GN14 GN15 GN17GN19GN19+ GN20 GN23GN25 GN26 GN30 GN31 GN36 GN40GN41 GN43+ GN43GN98 FM FM FM FM

Waistcoat length ½ Waist (Side seams) ½ Hem (Side seams) ½ Overlap Shoulder width (Shoulder-arm point) Erect figure Bent figure Sloping shoulder Square shoulder Prominent chest Opening (highest button) lower (-) / higher Armhole diameter Deeper pocketdart Pleat under collar Round back ½ Waist & ½ Hem (Side seams) ½ Collar diameter (CBS) ½ Waist & ½ Hem (CBS) ½ Back width (CBS) Depth of armhole higher (+) / deeper (-) Overlap (lower level) open (+) / close (-) ½ Waist & ½ Hem (CBS Collar - hem) ½ Chest width (overlap) ½ Collar diameter (shoulder-neck point) Frontlength (shoulder-neck point) longer Frontlength (shoulder-neck point) shorter ½ Chest & ½ Waist & ½ Hem (Side seams) ½ Waistcoat width Waistcoat length Front length (CBS - point FP) Opening (CBS- highest button)

LENGTH WAIST AND SEAT WIDTH WAIST AND SEAT WIDTH WAIST AND SEAT WIDTH SHOULDER BALANCE / POSTURE BALANCE / POSTURE SHOULDER SHOULDER CHEST LENGTH / DETAILS ARMHOLE BALANCE / POSTURE BALANCE / POSTURE BALANCE / POSTURE WAIST AND SEAT WIDTH SHOULDER WAIST AND SEAT WIDTH CHEST ARMHOLE OTHER WAIST AND SEAT WIDTH CHEST SHOULDER BALANCE / POSTURE BALANCE / POSTURE WAIST AND SEAT WIDTH WAIST AND SEAT WIDTH LENGTH LENGTH / DETAILS LENGTH / DETAILS

208 195 207 193 180 160 164 185 186 174 214 188 172 168 170 199 183 197 178 190 218 201 176 181 162 166 203 205 210 212 216

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Summary: alterations waistcoat – by chapter. CHAPTER

CODE

ALTERATION

PAGE

ARMHOLE ARMHOLE BALANCE / POSTURE BALANCE / POSTURE BALANCE / POSTURE BALANCE / POSTURE BALANCE / POSTURE BALANCE / POSTURE BALANCE / POSTURE CHEST CHEST CHEST LENGTH LENGTH LENGTH / DETAILS LENGTH / DETAILS LENGTH / DETAILS OTHER SHOULDER SHOULDER SHOULDER SHOULDER SHOULDER WAIST AND SEAT WIDTH WAIST AND SEAT WIDTH WAIST AND SEAT WIDTH WAIST AND SEAT WIDTH WAIST AND SEAT WIDTH WAIST AND SEAT WIDTH WAIST AND SEAT WIDTH WAIST AND SEAT WIDTH

GN15 GN30 GN10GN10+ GN17GN19GN19+ GN43+ GN43GN13 GN26 GN40GN1 FM FM FM GN14 GN31 GN9 GN11GN11+ GN23GN41 GN6 GN7GN8 GN20 GN25 GN36 GN98 FM

Armhole diameter Depth of armhole higher (+) / deeper (-) Erect figure Bent figure Deeper pocketdart Pleat under collar Round back Frontlength (shoulder-neck point) longer Frontlength (shoulder-neck point) shorter Prominent chest ½ Back width (CBS) ½ Chest width (overlap) Waistcoat length Waistcoat length Front length (CBS - point FP) Opening (CBS- highest button) Opening (highest button) lower (-) / higher Overlap (lower level) open (+) / close (-) Shoulder width (Shoulder-arm point) Sloping shoulder Square shoulder ½ Collar diameter (CBS) ½ Collar diameter (shoulder-neck point) ½ Waist (Side seams) ½ Hem (Side seams) ½ Overlap ½ Waist & ½ Hem (Side seams) ½ Waist & ½ Hem (CBS) ½ Waist & ½ Hem (CBS Collar - hem) ½ Chest & ½ Waist & ½ Hem (Side seams) ½ Waistcoat width

188 190 160 164 172 168 170 162 166 174 178 176 208 210 212 216 214 218 180 185 186 183 181 195 207 193 199 197 201 203 205

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Summary: alterations waistcoat – schematic diagram.

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THE COAT If you want to order a coat you have the following possibilities: • You take the measurements of the coat as try on garment and pass on the desired measurements and changes for the coat.. • You take the measurements of the jackets as try on garment and you add to the finished measurements of the jackets de needed extra width. The finished measurements you note are those of the coat (see tip: calculation of the finished measurements of the coat). The fit assessment that you have conducted with the jacket in terms of figure, posture and shoulder posture is also taken into account for the coat.

222


TIPS

CALCULATION OF THE FINISHED MEASUREMENTS FOR THE COAT

If you use the jacket as try-on garment you can calculate the finished measurements of the coat on the base of these formulas: • ½ Coat = ½ Jacket width + 4 cm • ½ Back width coat = ½ Back width jacket + 1 cm • Shoulder width coat = Shoulder width jacket + 0,7 cm • Sleeve length coat: = Sleeve length jacket + 1 to 1,5 cm if the cuffs of the shirt are not visible on the jacket = Sleeve length jacket + 2 to 3 cm if the cuffs of the shirt are visible on the jacket You note the desired length of the coat in the field ‚Finished Measurement Jacket length’.

TO ADAPT THE COAT LENGTH

When the length of the coat has to be adapted you have 2 possibilities: • If you want to adapt the length with a particular value, you note this value in the field ‚Jacket length (hem) V34’ and than we will adapt the length without changing the waistheight, height of the pockets, height of the buttons and the slits. This change will be used for clients with a average length who want a short of long coat. • If you want to adapt the length with a particular value, you note this value in the field ‚Jacket length (hem + waist) V1’ and than we will adapt the length and at the same time adapt, with half the found value, the waistheight, height of the pockets, height of the buttons and the slits with . This change will be used for clients taller or smaller than average. EXAMPLE 1:

You want a coat in size 50R and with a length of 110 cm. The standard length of the coat for this model in this size is 100 cm. You note: ‚Jacket length (hem + waist) V1’ +10cm. You make the coat 10cm longer. The waist height, height of pockets and button and slit-ends will be placed 5 cm lower. Your customer is taller than average. EXAMPLE 2:

You want a coat in size 50R and with a length of 90 cm. The standard length of the coat for this model in this size is 100 cm. You note: ‚Jacket length (hem + waist) V1’ -10cm. You make the coat 10cm shorter. The waist height, height of pockets and button and slit-ends will be placed 5 cm higher. Your customer is smaller than average. If you only give a value for ‚Finished Measurement Jacket length’, we will adapt the jacket length with the alterations ‚Jacket length (Hem + Waist) V1’. SIZE OF THE JACKET AND THE COAT

Basically you take the same size for the coat as you have taken for the jacket. A coat has more shoulder – and back width, larger armhole diameter and more ½ jacket, so the coat can be worn on top of the jacket. Always keep in mind de individual wishes of the customer and the use of the coat (whether it will be worn over a coat or not).

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CEREMONIAL If you want to order ceremonial you work like this: • For the jackets: You take measure with a try-on jacket and you note the desired finished measurements and alterations for the ceremonial jacket. When determining body figure, balance and position of the shoulders you apply the same theory as used on the jacket. • For the trousers: You take measure with a try-on trousers and you note the desired finished measurements and alterations for the ceremonial trousers. When determining body figure and balance you apply the same theory as used on the trousers. • For the waistcoats: You take measure with a try-on waistcoat and you note the desired finished measurements and alterations for the ceremonial waistcoat. When determining balance and position of the shoulders (sloping or square shoulders) and the repartition of the width of the gilet you start from a jacket and apply the same theory as used on the jacket. Than the measurements will be adapted like this: -for the balance: only 75% of the found value (of the jacket) will be applied on the waistcoat. -for the shoulderslope: only 50% of the found value (of the jacket) will be applied on the waistcoat, -for the width partition: reduce ½ Jacket with 1cm to achieve ½ Waistcoat -reduce the shoulderwidth by 50% of the found value (of the jacket) All finished measurements should of course be entered. You also have the opportunity to register on the orderform some alterations with a pure aesthetic result.

All the jackets, trousers and waistcoats are possible as ceremonial if you combine them with the necessary options, check your modelbook for all information. Attention: Not all options are available for ceremonial, check your modelbook for all information.

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Length / Details • Cut/Tailcoat Upper part V97 When you want to change the complete upper part of a Cut or a Tailcoat, you note the found value in the field ‚Cut / Tailcoat upper part V97’. Changing the length of the upper part has an influence on the proportions of the jacket and therefore the visual. In case of a Tailcoat it could be sensible to make the upper part longer, when instead of the Tailcoat trousers (higher waist) a regular trouser is worn. You need to take into account that this adjustment has no influence on the waist level, placement of the highest button (Tailcoat) & closure button (Cut) and the total length. The distance between the buttons on the Tailcoat are proportionally adapted. B2B indication: shorter - and longer +

Cut

Tailcoat

The complete upperpart of the Cut or Tailcoat will be made shorter or longer by 100% of the found value. The waist level, position of the highest button (Tailcoat) / closure button (Cut) will not change. The total length remains unchanged. Picture shows upperpart longer.

ORIENTATION VALUES

Light 1 cm / Medium 2 cm / Strong 4 cm The maximal values are to be found in our B2B system and depend on the chosen model.

225


SIZE CONFIGURATION The clothing industry mainly works with 2 size configurations: The North European and South European system. To offer a maximum range of sizes and to answer to as much different bodytypes as possible, Scabal offers both systems.

THE NORTH EUROPEAN SYSTEM

This system is mostly used in Germany. The chest width is the most important criteria for the determination of the size of the jacket. The bodylength and figure are a second criteria. Based on this you decide whether a normal size, a short size, a long size or a stout size is the best exit point. • Normal size = Chest / 2 • Short size = Chest / 4 • Long size = Chest • Stout size = (Chest / 2)+1 In the following scale you find the sizes with corresponding chest widths: Chest width Normal size * Short size Long size Stout size

88 44 22 88 45

92 46 23 90 47

96 48 24 94 49

100 50 25 98 51

104 108 112 116 120 124 128 52 54 56 58 60 62 64 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 102 106 110 114 118 122 126 53 55 57 59 61 63 65

132 66 33 130 67

In the North European size configuration it is presumed that the atletic build man taller is than the average man, and that a stout man shorter is than the average man. * The normal size is also available in the dropsystem. EXAMPLES OF THE SIZE CATEGORIES

• Short sizes: ex. Size 25 (B2B= 025) This man is shorter than average and has a belly. • ½ Short sizes: ex. Size 25,5 (B2B= 255) This man has the same volume as the man of the short sizes, but he is smaller / shorter. Therefore the jacket and the sleeves are made 2cm shorter. There’s no width difference between the short and ½ short size. • Long sizes: ex. Size 98 (B2B= 098) This man is taller than average and has an atletic build body. • Stout sizes: ex. Size 51 (B2B= 051) This man is shorter than average and has a serious belly contour. Moreover, he has small shoulders and less backwidth than the man of the short sizes.

226


THE SOUTH EUROPEAN SYSTEM OR DROPSYSTEM

This is the much prefered system. */The dropsystem has as purpose to easely determine the bodytype of your client. To determine the drop you work like this: Drop = ½ Chest - ½ Band (of your tried Scabal trousers) EXAMPLE:

chest = 100 cm and band = 88 cm 100 / 2 - 88 / 2 = 6; so this is a drop 6

*/How higher the drop, how slimmer the person and how lower the drop the larger the waist of the person. The ‚droptypes’ for most used: • Drop 7 / 8: Slender figure • Drop 6 : Normal figure • Drop 4 : Stout and very stout figure

*/Within every drop there’s a length subdivision per size and we have 3 sizes available: JACKET:

• Regular: ex. Size 50R: = size 50 standard • Short: ex. Size 50S: = size 50R with jacket length – 2.5 cm and sleeve length – 1.5 cm • Long: ex. Size 50L: = size 50R with jacket length + 2.5 cm and sleeve length + 1.5 cm TROUSERS:

• Regular: ex. Size 50R: = size 50 standard • Short: ex. Size 50S: = size 50R with inseam – 2.5 cm but with the same rise as on Regular. • Long: ex. Size 50L: = size 50R with inseam + 2.5 cm but with the rise 1cm higher than on Regular • Remark: The size of the trousers is based on the size of the chest and not the waist (band)! ATTENTION

There’s no width difference between the Regular, Short and Long.

Furthermore you can use the following options for Reorder (RTW) to make additional length changes: • SSK2: jacket length 2 cm shorter than the standard length (sleeve length remains unaltered). • HSL3: trousers length 3 cm longer thand the standard length. These options are, both in the North European and in the South European system only available for RTW.

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COMPARAISON BETWEEN BOTH SYSTEMS

The sizes in the following size scale correspond only approximately, since each system is on its own, and not a derivative of the other system. NORTH EUROPEAN SYSTEM

047 (Stout size) 024 (Short size) 098 (Long size) 052 (Normal size)

SOUTH EUROPEAN SYSTEM

≅ ≅ ≅ ≅

Drop 0 in size 48S (not available) Drop 4 in size 48R Drop 7 in size 50L Drop 6 in size 52R

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REORDERS MTM / REPEAT ORDERS When making an order and you want to refer to and old order of the same customer, you note the order number or confirmation number (Sales Order) of the former order in the field ‚For measurements see order n° or confirmation n°’ on top of your ordersheet. We copy all finished measurements, measurement changes and all alterations on balance of this old order. This means that you don’t need to fill in the measurements on the second page of your order form. Only if you want additional changes you have to fill in the corresponding fields. We don’t copy options used on the previous order, so don’t forget to note them on your orderform! Also technical options like S70 (extra dart under the revers) and option S8 (stronger shoulderpads) are not copied and therefore have to noted again. This is all on the condition that you order a model of the same modelbase (ex. Former order was a jacket 306/1322, and now you order a jacket 306/1921 or the former order was a trousers N610 and now you order a trousers N600). JACKET

If you refer to an order in the same orderset, but another modeltype (ex. Single breadted instead of double breasted, or shawl collar instead of peak lapel), we copy all finished measurements,

measurement changes and all alterations on balance of this old order. If you choose single breasted instead of double breasted as on your reference order, our analysts will re-calculate de ½ jacket. TROUSERS

When you refer to an old ordernumber, and the ordered trousers is from the same modelset, but with a different quantity of pleats, we assume that you consciously have choosen this different fit. If you choose and trousers without pleat instead of a trousers with pleat, your trousers will be smaller on the crotch and thigh width. We don’t copy the finished measurements of ½ crotch diameter, ½ thigh width, ½ knee width and ½ bottom width of the reference order. Only all measurement changes and also the finished measurement of ½ band, outseam and inseam will be copied from the reference order. Please pay attention to this and eventally note these particular finished measurements yourselves. EXAMPLE :

In case you have reduced the thigh width and ½ seat with 1 cm on the trousers with pleat of the reference order , than we will re-apply this also on your new order, even if you changed into trousers without pleat. In case you want to change the measurements changes from your reference order, you need to note this on your orderform. It is imperative that you note the new and full amount for the alteration. EXAMPLE :

Reference order: sloping shoulder left 1cm and reorder : sloping shoulder left with extra 0.5cm. You note for the reorder the total value, meaning sloping shoulder left 1.5 cm. In case you only note the extra value of the change, you need to put this explicit on the orderform (ex. sloping shoulder left 0.5 cm EXTRA) Please take into account the eventual changes of the measurements changes you note, when you fill in the fields of finished measurements. Essentially we make all models in the current version of the model and in the current finishing. Don’t forget to take into account reperations you did yourselves or demanded us to make on the former order..

229


MAXIMAL VALUES OF THE ALTERATIONS * MAXIMAL VALUES JACKET Erect figure V10V24+ Open Front panel V43+ Front length longer (shoulder-neck point) V10+ Bent figure V24Close Front panel V43Front length shorter (shoulder-neck point) V19Pleat under collar V19+ Round back V17 Deeper pocketdart V13 Prominent chest V39 ½ Chest width (armhole) V3 ½ Back width V26 ½ Back width (CBS) FM ½ Back width V9 Shoulder width (Shoulder-arm point) V41 Collar diameter (shoulder point) FM Shoulder width V23½ Collar diameter (CBS) V11Sloping shoulder (s) V11+ Square shoulder (s) V59+ Shoulders to the front V15 Armhole diameter V18 ½ Wrist width V30 Depth of Armhole higher / deeper V32 Sleeve to the front / back V8 ½ Overlap V48 ½ Waist (FP – underarm seam) V6 ½ Waist (BP-Side seams) V25 ½ Waist & ½ Seat (CBS) V20 ½ Waist & ½ Seat (BP-Side seam) V21 ½ Waist & ½ Seat (SP-Side seam) V22 ½ Waist & ½ Seat (SP-Underarm seam) V28 ½ Waist & ½ Seat (FP & SP-Underarm seams) V36 ½ Waist & ½ Seat (CBS Collar - hem) FM ½ Jacket V7 ½ Seat (BP & SP - Sideseams) V27 ½ Seat (SP-Underarm seam) V1 Jacket length (hem + waist) FM Jacket length FM Sleeve length V34 Jacket length (hem) V35 Waist level higher / lower V60 Pocket level higher / lower V14 Button level (highest button) higher / lower FM Button level (CBS - highest button)

+

-

/ 1,5 1 3 / / / 2 1 1,5 1 1 0,5 1,5 0,5(1)** 1 2 / / 4 2 2 1,5 1,5 2 2 0,5 3 1 1 1 1 1 0,5 6,5 3 1 15 15 10 20*** 4 2,5 4 4

-3 / / / -1,5 -1 -2 / / / -1 -1 -0,5 -1,5 -0,5(-1)** -1 -2 -0,5 -4 / / -2 -1,5 -1,5 -2 -2 -0,5 -2 -1 -1 -1 -1 -1 -0,5 -5,5 -3 -1 -10 -10 -10 -10 -4 -3,5 -4 -4

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V16 V31

Length of vent longer / shorter Frontform rounder / straighter

MAXIMAL VALUES TROUSERS Back rise – seat level open / close P15 P6 Back rise - waistband level P5 Front rise (max. 1,5 cm) P21 Front rise (more than 1,5 cm) P1 Rise (all around) P28+ Hip higher on 1 side FM Outseam left excl. Waistband FM Inseam P3 ½ Waistband P27 ½ Waistband FP P14 ½ Waistband & ½ Seat FM ½ Waistband P16 ½ Seat P11 Rounding hip BP P12 Rounding hip FP P13 Center back seam P10 Crotch BP P23 Crotch FP FM ½ Crotch diameter P17 Thigh width at 10 cm (circumference) FM ½ Thigh width (10 cm) FM ½ Knee width FM ½ Bottom width P8 O-Legs P9 X-Legs

MAXIMAL VALUES WAISTCOAT GN10Erect figure GN43+ Front length longer (shoulder-neck point) GN10+ Bent figure GN43Front length shorter (shoulder-neck point) GN19Pleat under collar GN19+ Round back GN17 Deeper pocketdart GN13 Prominent chest GN40½ Chest width (overlap) GN26 ½ Back width (CBS) GN9 Shoulder width (Shoulder-arm point) GN41 ½ Collar diameter (shoulder-neck point) GN23½ Collar diameter (CBS) GN11Sloping shoulder (s) GN11+ Square shoulder (s) GN15 Armhole diameter GN30 Depth of Armhole higher / deeper GN8 ½ Overlap

3 1

-7 -1

2 2 1,5 4 2 2 20 20 4 1 1 5 3 1 1 1 1,5 1 4,5 3 1,5 4 8

-2 -2 -1,5 -5 -2 / -20 -20 -4 -1 -1 -5 -2 -1 -1 -1 -1 -1 -4 -3 -1,5 -4 -7 -2 -2

/ 1,5 2,5 / / 1,5 1 1 / 0,5 1 1 / / 3 2 1,5 2

-2,5 / / -1 -1 / / / -1 -0,5 -1,5 -1 -0,5 -4 / -2 -1,5 -2 231


GN6 GN25 GN20 GN98 GN36 FM GN7GN1 FM FM GN14 FM GN31

½ Waist (side seams) ½ Waist & ½ Hem (CBS) ½ Waist & ½ Hem (Side seams) ½ Chest & ½ Waist & ½ Hem (Side seams) ½ Waist & 1/2 Hem (CBS Collar - hem) ½ Waistcoat ½ Hem (Side seams) Waistcoat length Waistcoat length Front length (CBS - point FP) Opening (highest button) lower / higher Opening (CBS- highest button) Overlap (lower level) open / close

1 1 3 3 0,5 4,5 / 10 10 3,5 6 6 1

-1 -1 -2,5 -3 -0,5 -4,5 -1,5 -5 -5 -2,5 -6 -6 -1

* Values dependent of model and type. In B2B the maximal values are noted per model. ** +1 cm or -1 cm is possible if ½ Backwidth also is adapted with +0,5 cm or -0,5 cm. *** The maximal value to lengthen the coat = 30 cm In case the maximum values here noted are not sufficient, we advice you to contact our technical MTM department. We will try to find a solution by proposing you for example alternative measurement changes or by lifting the maximal values in exceptional cases.

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MAXIMAL ACCEPTED DIFFERENCE BETWEEN LEFT AND RIGHT FOR ASYMMETRICAL CHANGES JACKET V39 V3 V9 V11V11+ V6 V20 V21 V22 V7 FM

½ Chest width (armhole) ½ Back width Shoulder width (shoulder-arm point) Sloping shoulder (s) Square shoulder (s) ½ Waist (BP-Side seams) ½ Waist & ½ Seat (BP-Side seam) ½ Waist & ½ Seat (SP-Side seam) ½ Waist & ½ Seat (SP-Underarm seam) ½ Seat (BP & SP – Side seams) Sleeve length

0,5 0,5 0,5 2 2 1,5 0,5 0,5 0,5 1,5 5

TROUSERS P28+ Hip higher on 1 side FM Inseam P11 Rounding hip BP P12 Rounding hip FP P23 Crotch FP

2 5 0,5 0,5 1

WAISTCOAT GN11Sloping shoulder (s) GN11+ Square shoulder (s) GN6 ½ Waist (side seams) GN20 ½ Waist & ½ Hem (Side seams)

2 2 0,5 1,5

233


LEXICON

BP

Back part

CBS

Center back seam

FM

Finished Measurement

FP

Front part

SP

Side part

234

Made By You Knowledge Book (EN)  

The ultimate manual for tailors

Made By You Knowledge Book (EN)  

The ultimate manual for tailors

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