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Berlin

CONTENTS

08.17 See more of Berlin at wheretraveler.com ®

The Plan Let’s get started

The Guide The best of Berlin

PULLOUT SPECIAL

All you've ever wanted to know about the Berlin Wall

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6 Hot Dates

When less is more: Concept stores that have embraced minimalism.

Highlights of the month's can't-miss events, from Cabaret to street festivals and fireworks.

SIGHTSEEING

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XX

20

Summer is finally here!

Make a splash in Berlin's many beautiful lakes.

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MUSEUMS & GALLERIES

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C/O Berlin's latest product photography exhibitions let simple objects talk.

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XXbest restaurants in town for The a delectable plate of fish, from lobster to herring tartare and Turkish-style fried anchovies.

58 My Berlin Miriam Jacks Berlin through the eyes of a beauty expert.

Tanz im August – showcasing groundbreaking works of modern dance.

54 Ask The Concierge Recommendations from Ole Petersen, concierge at the Hotel Adlon Kempinski.

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From transport to emergency numbers, find useful information for your stay in Berlin.

Where Now

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SHOPPING | ENTERTAINMENT | CULTURE | DINING | MAPS

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THE BERLIN WALL SPECIAL PULLOUT GUIDE

BY HILDA HOY

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Lakes, bike rides, ice cream, cocktails: All the best ways to stay refreshed in the city

Refreshing hangouts to combat summer's soaring temperatures.

20 Beach Essentials

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ENTERTAINMENT

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Also Inside

A UGUS T 2 0 17 W HER E T R AV EL ER . C OM

DINING

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YOUNG EURO CLASSIC © MUTE SOUVENIR, KAI BIENERT; BERLIN WALL: © ESTRAFALARIUS, WIKIMEDIA COMMONS; ICE CREAM COURTESY OF GIORGIO LOMBARDI; SHOES BY MARC CAIN; BIKE TOUR: COURTESY OF FAT TIRE BIKE TOURS.

SHOPPING

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5 Editor’s Note

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WELCOME TO BERLIN

Hot Times The only predictable fact about the Berlin summer is that it's highly unpredictable. Temperatures can go from 34 degrees Celsius to 15 from one day to the next, which requires a high level of creativity when it comes to deciding what to wear in the morning. The good thing is that excessive heat usually doesn't last for more than two or three days. The bad thing is that sometimes, all the remaining days of the month don't really feel like summer.

Whatever the weather, Berlin offers a very wide range of things to do, from museums and cafĂŠs to take cover when it's sprinkling, to lakes and swimming pools for getting refreshed. The best thing to do is to try and stay outdoors as much as possible. This month, we've compiled a list of the best cocktails, ice cream shops, and lakes to escape the heat, and we've jumped right into the city's bike culture. And for the history lovers out there: Check out our eight-page pullout guide on the Berlin Wall and learn all there is to know about the infamous barrier that divided Berlin and Berliners for 29 years.

PORTRAIT BY THOMAS HEDRICH/FOTOSTUDIO-CHARLOTTENBURG; SKYLINE Š TOTALPICS/ISTOCK/THINKSTOCK

Enjoy!

SOLVEIG STEINHARDT EDITOR, WHERE BERLIN

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HOT

DATES August in Berlin is hot with fabulous events, from fireworks by the river and young orchestras to comedy festivals and musicals.

AQUARELLA

11 FROM FRIDAY

It's water and light spectacular at the Aquarella Berlin festival. On two weekends this month (11 + 12 Aug and 25 + 26 Aug) , the Spree River will transform into a brightly illuminated corso as cruise boats tour through the city center, shining with colorful laser lights. Just pick one of the three boarding points at HansabrĂźcke, Haus der Kulturen der Welt, or Hauptbahnhof, and cruise along the river past the government district, Museum Island, and Nikolaiviertel. The tour ends at the East Side Gallery in Kreuzberg with music and fireworks. www.aquarella-berlin.de 6 W H E R E B E R L I N I AU G U S T 2017

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WHERE NOW | CALENDAR

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BERLIN LACHT UNTIL SUNDAY

They say laughter is the best medicine and a real workout for the abs. Get your fair share at this hilarious international street theater festival taking place on Washingtonplatz near Hauptbahnhof and on Alexanderplatz, with a full program of more than 150 international artists including clowns, acrobats, puppeteers, comedians, and magicians. All shows are free, but don’t forget to drop a few coins into their hungry hats. www.berlin-lacht.de

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LONG NIGHT OF MUSEUMS SATURDAY

With more museums than rainy days per year, Berlin is a cultural marathon. Luckily, there's the Long Night of Museums, giving us up to seven extra hours of museum time on 19 August. One ticket grants access to more than 100 museums and institutions, which stay open until 2am to help you cram in as many as possible. Alongside the permanent exhibitions, artists, musicians, and dancers will create temporary works of art adding to the atmosphere of the night. Free rides on public transport and a shuttle bus are also included in the ticket. www.lange-nacht-der-museen.de

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INTERNATIONAL BEER FESTIVAL FROM FRIDAY

There’s nothing better on a hot summer’s day than an ice-cold beer. This three-day folk festival celebrates Germany's national drink with a mile-long selection of approximately 2,400 different beer specialties from over 300 breweries around the world. The festival stretches along the monumental Karl-Marx-Allee, setting the Guinness World Record for the longest beer garden. Entry is free, and this year’s theme for Berlin’s suds-loving visitors is beer from North Rhine-Westphalia. Prost! www.bierfestival-berlin.de

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ICE CREAM COMPETITION SATURDAY

For the last Saturday of the traditional GermanAmerican Volksfest (21 Jul–13 Aug), the U.S. Embassy in Berlin and the U.S. Department of Agriculture are organizing a fun ice cream competition. They have invited Berlin's best ice cream makers to develop the tastiest flavors using U.S. ingredients. Head down to Marienpark, near Stone Brewing, and vote for your favorite creation! Marienpark, Lankwitzer Str. 45. www.deutschamerikanischesvolksfest.de www.wheretraveler.com 7

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POTSDAM PALACE NIGHTS SATURDAY

One summer night each year, the Schloss Sanssouci in Potsdam celebrates the bygone era of the Prussian kings in all their pompous glory. From 5pm until late, the royal palaces will be brilliantly illuminated and the expansive gardens filled with Baroque musicians, costumed characters, and culinary delights. There will be a medley of performances, including the captivating Quidams street artists, with figures made of silk, light, and air, all culminating in a fireworks display at midnight. www.potsdamer-schloessernacht.de

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CABARET FROM FRIDAY

Travel back in time with the world-famous musical Cabaret. Based on a novel by English author Christopher Isherwood, who lived in Berlin during the Roaring Twenties, Cabaret is the story of the carefree nightclub-singer Sally Bowles and of the city's sensual excitement under the darkening skies of the waning Weimar Republic. Performing all month long at Tipi am Kanzleramt. www.tipi-am-kanzleramt.de

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YOUNG EURO CLASSIC FROM FRIDAY

Every summer for 17 days, the Konzerthaus on Gendarmenmarkt fills up with music enthusiasts who've come to take in a good dose of Beethoven, Mozart, and Strauss as well as contemporary pieces performed by the best symphonic youth orchestras in the world. The musicians are all young and extremely talented, providing highquality sound and impeccable technical skills.

Do not miss Tchaikovsky's Violin Concerto op. 35 on 28 August. www.youngeuro-classic.de 8 W H E R E B E R L I N I AU G U S T 2017

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HOT DATES

AUGUST

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31

Admire the work of influential painter Marc Chagall at Museum Berggruen.

Sip a cool beer or two in the shade at Prater, the oldest beer garden in the city.

Feast on international delicacies at the Street Food Thursday event at Markthalle Neun.

Get ink inspiration all weekend long at the big Tattoo Convention at Arena.

Fancy a big night out? Enjoy decadent dinner, drinks, & dancing at Bar Tausend.

Sing along with one of Berlin's fave Sunday pastimes: outdoor karaoke in Mauerpark.

Kafka fans: You can marvel at the original manuscript of The Trial at Martin-Gropius-Bau. Catch a film at CineStar Potsdamer Platz, which specializes in movies in English.

See Andrew Lloyd Webber's smash hit musical CATS (in English!) at Admiralspalast.

Take a refreshing dip at Badeschiff, a swimming pool floating in the Spree River.

Beloved pop & rock singer Pink plays a big show at Waldbühne tonight.

Cheer on your fave wrestling stars at Grandslam Wrestling at Zitadelle Spandau.

It's summer's musical highlight: Daniel Barenboim and his orchestra at Waldbühne.

See singer-songwriter Regina Spektor perform her musical magic at Tempodrom.

"Godmother of punk" Patti Smith rocks the crowd at Zitadelle Spandau tonight.

Watch a movie under the stars at Freiluftkino Kreuzberg, an open-air cinema.

The Tanz im August festival continues with a show from choreographer Michael Clark.

The Young Euro Classic festival begins at Konzerthaus with a youth orchestra concert.

Fill up on culture with the Long Night of the Museums event: one ticket, 70+ venues.

For antique fans, the Sunday flea market on Tiergarten's Straße des 17. Juni is a must.

Hear some cool music at the Experimontag event at Kreuzberg's Madame Claude bar.

Admire the famous bust of Nefertiti, queen of Ancient Egypt, at the Neues Museum.

Attention pop lovers: the annual Pop Kultur festival begins today at Kulturbrauerei.

Craft beer fans: check out the unbelievable range of brews on tap at Hopfenreich bar.

After a summer break, the Philharmonie returns with a smashing Haydn concert.

NYC rock band Interpol headlines at thePure & Crafted Festival at Rummelsburg.

It's Germany vs. France in tonight's big basketball game at Mercedes-Benz Arena.

Admire etchings by artist Lucian Freud, grandson of Sigmund, at Martin-Gropius-Bau. Legendary hip hop group Cypress Hill raps this evening at Zitadelle Spandau.

Marvel at the amazing acrobats and more in the Berlin Circus Festival in Tempelhof Park.

Cool down with a dip in Schlachtensee, one of the city's most popular lake outings.

AQUARELLA: COURTESY OF AQUARELLA; BEER FESTIVAL: COURTESY OF INTERNATIONALES BERLINER BIERFESTIVAL; BERLIN LACHT, ZACHTACULAR: COURTESY OF BERLIN LACHT; CABARET: MICHAEL KARGUS ALS MC UND ENSEMBLE © JAN SOBOTTKA / WWW.CATONBED.DE; YOUNG EURO CLASSIC: COURTESY OF YOUNG EURO CLASSIC, KAI BIENERT; HUMBOLDT BOX: © SERGEJ HOROVITZ; POTSDAMER SCHLOESSERNAECHTE: © KLAUS BAEDICKER; ICE CREAM: © ISTOCK.

WHERE NOW | CALENDAR

For more ideas, see our Entertainment section.

13/07/2017 10:06

Potsdamer

Das Staunen kehrt zurück!

Schlösser Nacht 2017 Fotos: Stiftung Preußische Schlösser und Gärten Berlin-Brandenburg, fotolia/Gino Santa Maria, Cie des Quidams

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SPLASHING IN FOUNTAIN: © VISIT BERLIN, PHOTO WOLFGANG SCHOLVIEN; GELATO: COURTESY OF GIORGIO LOMBARDI;

This image: paddling in Tiergarten Park; Right: The ZOE rooftop bar; Main image, left: splashing around at Alexanderplatz. Inset, above left: gelato at Giorgio Lombardi.

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KEEPING

YOUR COOL

SPLASHING IN FOUNTAIN: © VISIT BERLIN, PHOTO WOLFGANG SCHOLVIEN; GELATO: COURTESY OF GIORGIO LOMBARDI; TIERGARTEN ROWING: © © VISIT BERLIN, PHOTO TANJA KOCH. ZOE ROOFTOP BAR: COURTESY OF THE AMANO GROUP.

WHERE NOW | GET REFRESHED

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Hot town, summer in the city… Follow Hilda Hoy’s tips to stay cool and chilled-out on even the hottest summer days.

ere we are, finally: the glorious peak of summer. The long, sunny days and hot, humid spells are what Berliners have been waiting for all year. That said, we all know it’s possible to have too much of a good thing. When the temperatures soar, make time for refreshing breaks at these Where team favorites, from icy margaritas to cool fountains and shaded, breezy rooftop hangouts.

MAKING A SPLASH When the weather’s hot and the sun’s beating down, staying in the shade should be priority #1. And since many public buildings in Berlin aren’t air conditioned, tree-lined parks are probably your best bet for taking a refreshing break. If your itinerary includes sightseeing in Mitte, pop into Tiergarten to relax in one of the park’s many cool nooks, ideally next to one of the numerous small

waterways that flow through the greenery.

Next to a picturesque pond at the southwest corner of the park is Café am neuen See (Lichtensteinallee 2, www.cafeamneuensee. de), a shaded beer garden and restaurant offering a wide variety of refreshments, not to mention boat rentals if the water beckons.

Just east of the city center is the expansive Volkspark Friedrichshain, with the perfect combination of green lawns, shaded hideaways, and refreshing fountains to splash around in. Next to the western entrance is the grand, fairy tale-inspired Märchenbrunnen, where you can sit on the ledge and dip your feet in the water. Just down the path is a play area where elephant, penguin, and seal statues spray a refreshing mist for kids (and grown-ups!) to play in. And over towards the eastern end of the park is a playground with a big, walk-in “water bell” fountain in which to cool down.

You’ll find one of the biggest water spectacles in the city right at the base of the TV

Tower at Alexanderplatz, where 560 nozzles send a cascade of 602 cubic meters of water into the air. In an equally tourist-friendly location is the big fountain at Lustgarten, the manicured lawn across from the Berliner Dom. Should all the splashing around have you in the mood for more water, a swim should be next on the itinerary. If you’ve noticed the city seems suspiciously empty on hot, sunny days, that’s because most Berliners have headed to a nearby lake to cool off. For tips on where to find the city’s favorite swimming spots, flip to page 34.

SIPS & SNACKS Two things that always hit the spot during hot weather: cold drinks and ice cream.

When it comes to the latter, you’ll certainly be spoiled for choice – sometimes it seems that wherever you go, an ice cream shop is always within walking distance. My personal

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WHERE NOW | GET REFRESHED

Clockwise from top: The beach at Wannsee lake; a Negroni at Bar Milano; ceviche at La Lucha; nitro iced coffee at Happy Baristas.

favorites are Mitte’s Giorgio Lombardi (Weinbergsweg 5) for genuine, homemade Italian gelato. Tip: the nut flavors like pistachio and almond are out of this world. Over in Schöneberg, relative newcomer Jones Ice Cream (Goltzstr. 3, www.jonesicecream. com) has already earned many die-hard fans. High quality standards and a knack for perfect flavor harmonies (try the grapefruit & Earl Grey sorbet) are what sets Jones apart from the rest. Get your scoops served in a homemade waffle cone or smooshed onto a freshly baked jumbo cookie.

caffeine boost, make a beeline for the iced coffee on tap at Friedrichshain’s Happy Baristas (Neue Bahnhofstr. 32, www.happybaristas.com), one of the few places in town to have nitro coffee on the menu. Coldbrewed coffee infused with nitrogen gas is dispensed through a pressurized valve, giving it a smooth, creamy texture similar to a pint of Guinness stout. Happy Baristas even does delicious nitro teas like green Sakura tea with lemon, and oolong with lavender and coconut.

sister hotel ZOE (www.amanogroup.de), which both have secluded rooftop bars complete with shaded lounge areas, fresh breezes, and sweeping views. The ZOE rooftop shares the same menu as the hotel’s downstairs G&T bar, specializing in – you guessed it – the Gin & Tonic, beloved as a refreshing tipple since its invention by British colonists sweltering on the Indian subcontinent. G&T fans won’t be disappointed by the ZOE rooftop bar’s impressive assortment of both gins and tonic waters from around the world.

For refreshing drinks, Taiwanese tea shop Come Buy (Rosenthaler Str. 31, www. comebuy2002.de) truly has something for every taste. For purists, there are iced green, black, and oolong teas with no added sugar, while kids in particular enjoy adding in fruit flavor and a range of fun jelly bits. The vibrantly green matcha shakes and icy mango smoothies are equally popular too. To try another cooling Asian treat, head to Prenzlauer Berg’s Gong Gan (Schwedter Str. 2), a Korean café with patbingsu shaved ice on the menu.

Each bowl of snowy fluff is drizzled with condensed milk, sweetened adzuki beans, and other toppings of your choice.

EVENING CHILLOUTS

For cold refreshment plus a welcome

Nearby are also the AMANO Hotel and its

Over on the other side of the world, another hot-weather climate gave rise to a classic summer cocktail: the margarita. If you can handle your liquor, you can order delicious margaritas by the pitcher at Kreuzberg’s La Lucha (Paul-Lincke-Ufer 39/41, www. laluchaberlin.com). This recently opened canal-side spot is not your typical taco joint, but rather a stylish and ambitious restaurant specializing in modern Mexican cuisine. The classic margarita always hits the spot, or go for one of the creative varieties pepped up with smoky mezcal, Habanero bitters, or grilled pineapple. Just a couple of these are sure to make for a summer evening to remember. Cheers!

When evening rolls around on these hot summer days, it’s high time to switch to the heavier stuff. If you ask me, a cold, crisp cocktail on a summer evening is one of life’s finest pleasures, and those occasions have me craving classic Italian aperitifs like an Aperol Spritz or a Negroni. You’ll find great renditions of both at Mitte’s chic, laid-back Bar Milano (Brunnenstr. 11, www.barmilano.de). True to northern Italian aperitivo style, each drink comes with an assortment of tasty little nibbles like mini crostini with prosciutto or cheese.

WANNSEE LAKE: © ISTOCK. NITRO COFFEE: COURTESY OF HAPPY BARISTAS; CEVICHE: COURTESY OF LA LUCHA; NEGRONI: COURTESY OF BAR MILANO.

If you order an Eiskaffee at German restaurants you won't get an iced coffee, but a coffee & ice cream milkshake.

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L A D E P WER O P

WHERE NOW | BIKE CULTURE

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TOURING

My favorite tourist route is from S-Bahn Wannsee to Potsdam. Luckily, you can take bikes on board trains with the purchase

COURTESY OF FAT TIRE TOURS AND STANDERT.

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ou know biking is well and truly engrained in a culture when everybody seems to being doing it, from the businessperson in his suit to the moms with kids in tow and the grannies buying their groceries. As soon as the weather warms up, I too pull my bike out of the cellar and set off on my main mode of transport for the coming six months. Although you can get around perfectly well on the city's efficient public transport system, it simply doesn’t compare to the freedom of rolling along, with wind in your hair and depending only on your own pedal power. What’s more, the 600 kilometers of bike paths and a mostly flat terrain, coupled with drivers who are simply used to sharing the roads, make it a real pleasure to ride. So when in Berlin, do as the Berliners do and explore as much as you can on two wheels. There is no shortage of rental places, and one-day hire will only set you back about €10.

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COURTESY OF FAT TIRE TOURS AND STANDERT.

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45) and listening to tales of espionage and escape attempts along the way.

of a Fahrrad ticket (€1.70 for one ride or €10.20 for a monthly pass), so getting to the route's starting point is easy. Then just follow the street Am Großen Wannsee down to the water, passing the Liebermann Villa art museum and Haus der Wannsee Konferenz (www.ghwk.de), where the horrific Nazi plans to eradicate Jews were given the seal of approval. Once you reach the shores, follow the course of the lake left through a beautiful wooded area, passing several places where you can take a dip. At Wirthaus zur Pfaueninsel (Pfaueninselchaussee 100, www.pfaueninsel.de) restaurant and beer garden, you can get a refreshing drink or catch the short ferry trip across to Peacock Island, home to many free-ranging birds. For a beautiful waterside lunch with a traditional German flair, keep riding to Wirtshaus Moorlake (Moorlakeweg 6, www.moorlake. de), before continuing to Glienicke Palace (Königstraße 36, www.spsg.de) and the infamous Glienicker Brücke (Königstraße), where captured Russian and American spies were exchanged during the Cold War. A right after the bridge will take you into Potsdam and Neuen Garten park, home to Cecilienhof (www.spsg.de) where the big three – Stalin, Churchill, and Truman – met in 1945 to decide the fate of Berlin after WWII. Spend

the rest of the day exploring Brandenburg’s beautiful capital, the most famous site of course being the Sanssouci palace and park (Maulbeerallee, www.spsg.de).

SHOPPING

To support the booming biking culture, there is a bicycle shop on just about every second corner. One of the best in Berlin is Standert Bicycle Café (Invalidenstr.157, www.

For a more urban route, but just as historistandert.de). Not only a showroom and pedcal, cruise along the former Berlin Wall. dler of beautiful bikes, it is also a hub for the The full 160 kilometers is probably a little too local biking community and home to great ambitious, but sections covering some of the coffee and beverages. Join them on their key sites are easily achievable. Do it on your welcoming Saturday brunch rides. For lovers own, starting at Mauerpark (Gleimstraße of folding bikes, small enough to fit into ones 55), where a section of the so-called death suitcase, Boxbike (Prenzlauer Allee 206, strip has been transformed into a www.boxbike.de) is the place to go, vibrant city park with a Sunday flea featuring brands such as Brompton, market and open-air karaoke.

Birdy, and Strida. And for all kinds Then continue onto Bernauer of wagons to transport the kiddies, Straße, which puts you in Berliners have access from Danish-designed Christiania front of West Berlin's tallest to over 600 km of bikes to the Dutch Bakfiets, a visit “spectator gallery" where visibike paths around to Fahrradladen Mehringhof tors could wave to their Eastern the city.

(Gneisenaustr. 2a, www.fahrradladenfriends. Today the grounds of mehringhof.de) is a must. the Berlin Wall Memorial (www. berliner-mauer-gedenkstaette.de) THE RULES begin here. Or do it as part of a guided bike While wearing a helmet isn’t legally estour with companies such as Fat Tire Bike sential, Prêt à Vélo (Fehrbelliner Str. 17, Tours (www.fattiretours.com) or Berlin on www.pret-a-velo.de) has a very cool range, Bike (www.berlinonbike.de), which travel along the imposing Karl-Marx-Allee before including Yakkay helmets that are designed to look like hats. However, using lights at taking in the colorful East Side Gallery night is required and locking up well is highly (Mühlenstraße, www.eastsidegallery-berlin. advisable – unfortunately the city also has its de) and powerful Treptower Park Soviet fair share of theft to accompany the popular War Memorial (Puschkinallee), returning cycling scene. via Checkpoint Charlie (Friedrichstr. 43w w w.wh ere t r ave l e r. com 15

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SHOPPING | THE GUIDE

Designer Outlet

When Less Is More Solveig Steinhardt is weeding through her belongings to clear space in her home and mind. to the markers and notebooks, everything here is designed to make your life easier and to reduce distraction.

Another basic Asian brand is casual wear designer Uniqlo (www.uniqlo.com). The Japanese label took the world by storm a few years ago with its clean lines and essential designs, providing fashion basics in every color imaginable. With the idea of taking away rather than adding, Uniqlo offers a clean slate for those looking to create an individual style.

For cutting-edge eyewear, South Korean concept store Yun (Rosenthaler Str. 11, www.yun-berlin.com) not only provides minimal designs, the price and delivery time of your prescription glasses are pretty essential too.

The 40

different frame designs come in three different colors only, for a total of 120 combinations of high-quality frames, and the finished product complete with prescription lenses, costs €99, €199, or €299 depending on your eyesight – a very competitive price compared to other stores in town. All you have to do is pick your frame, show your prescription (or get tested for free), and wait while you drink a cup of coffee. After 20 minutes, you'll see your new glasses spiral down a chute and along on the big conveyor belt machine in the middle of the store.

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The fast and busy world we live in commands that we keep accumulating things, sometimes cluttering our physical and mental space. And though not everyone is ready to fully embrace the minimalist philosophy, we could all use a bit of decluttering to rest our overstimulated minds.

Berlin is packed with essential design shops, but these East Asian brands have reached the highest peaks of minimalism, so check them out and get inspired.

No brand screams essential more than Muji (www.muji.com). The Japanese concept store sells housewares, stationery, and clothes that follow two principles: functionality and simple aesthetics. The products have no logos, and even the color and material palettes are limited: You'll find lots of aluminum, opaque white or black plastic, brown paper, and light-brown wood, with some dark blue and dark red in the clothing department. From the organizing containers 18 W H E R E B E R L I N I AU G U S T 2017

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SHOPPING

THE

where GUIDELINES

This directory, grouped by category, is a compendium of establishments recommended by the editors of Where Magazine and includes regular advertisers. Every effort is made to provide accurate and updated information.

However, information may be subject to last minute changes, so it is always advisable to call ahead.

INDEX TO ABBREVIATIONS T: Telephone number S: S-Bahn, Above-ground train system U: U-Bahn, Underground train system MAP LOCATIONS Note that the reference bolded at the end of each listing (A1, B5, etc.) refers to the coordinates on the street maps on pages 55-57.

OPENING HOURS Opening hours may vary, so it’s best to call ahead.

Shops are open Mon–Sat only, and Sunday shopping is only possible on certain Sundays of the year. This year, these are: 3 September, 1 October, 5 November, 3 December, 17 December. Groceries can be bought on Sundays at major train stations (Hauptbahnhof, Friedrichstraße, at Ullrich at Zoologischer Garten, or Ostbahnhof ). Shopping malls are open 10am–8pm and smaller stores only until 6pm.

TOURIST INFORMATION VisitBerlin is the official source of information on the city. Call T: 030.25002333 for specific Berlin information, or go to www.visitberlin.de for details on all information centers, events, and sights.

Tourist Info Points: Brandenburg Gate – Pariser Platz, daily 9:30am–6pm (until 7pm in summer).

Hauptbahnhof – Europaplatz 1, Level 0, daily 8am–9pm.

TV Tower Alexanderplatz – Panoramastr. 1a, daily 10am–4pm.

DEPARTMENT STORES & MALLS

range of goods from over 70 shops. Check out the ingenious water clock designed by Bernard Gitton in 1982. www.europa-center-berlin.de.

Tauentzienstr. 9–12. T: 030.26497940.

U Kurfürstendamm, U Wittenbergplatz. C4

Galeria Kaufhof The former East German department store, renovated in 2006, showcases more than 600 exclusive brands and an exquisite gourmet section covering 35,000sq.m (377,000sq.ft) of space. www.galeria-kaufhof.de. Alexanderplatz 9.

T: 030.247430. S+U Alexanderplatz. F3

Galeries Lafayette The Berlin branch of the exclusive Parisian department store is developed around an extraordinary glass cone. The three circular floors rise up around this centerpiece, packed with perfumes, clothing, and accessories. The food counter offers a wide range of French specialties and there’s a corner selling teas from the famed French tea house Mariage Frères. www.galerieslafayette.de. Friedrichstr. 76–78.

T: 030.209480.

U Französische Straße. E3

Kaufhaus des Westens (KaDeWe) The biggest and oldest department store in Germany sells only products of the highest quality.

If you're short on time, the legendary gourmet food hall on the sixth floor is not to be missed. www.kadewe.de. Tauentzienstr. 21–24.

T: 030.21210. U Wittenbergplatz. C4

Mall of Berlin 270 shops, 270 apartments, gyms, and pedestrian areas define the new Mall of Berlin on Leipziger Platz, a world of shopping opportunities a stone’s throw from the city’s main tourist attractions.

www.mallofberlin.de.Leipziger Platz 12.

U Mohrenstraße. E3

Potsdamer Platz Arkaden This large shopping center offers more than 120 shops over three floors, stocking everything from clothes and accessories to electronics and groceries. Its restaurants and bars, both inside and in surrounding streets, also make it a very popular meeting spot. www.potsdamer-platz-arkaden.de.

Alte Potsdamer Str. 7. T: 030.2559270.

S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

FASHION Annette Görtz Inspired by geometric lines and the use of "noncolors" such as black, beige, white, and gray, fashion brand Annette Görtz combines comfort with understated elegance. www.annettegoertz.com. T: 030 20074613.

Markgrafenstr. 42.

U Stadtmitte. E3

Beatrice von Tresckow Sumptuous, elegant, somewhat extravagant.

Beatrice Von Tresckow women's clothes are lively and colorful, an eye-catching addition to any wardrobe. www.beatricevontresckow.com, Leibnizstr. 60. T: 030 308318.

U Adenauer Platz. C4

Be Edgy With rule-breaking elements and a timeless soul, this Berlin-born fashion label makes perfectly cut leather jackets and a variety of accessories meant for rebellious and cheeky boys and girls. www. be.edgy.de. Bleibtreustr. 27.

T: 0176.61137540. U Uhlandstraße. B4

Alexa Hardcore shoppers love this mall for its sheer size, with over 180 stores spread over five levels. Highstreet retailers are well represented, and a large food court obliges when hunger overwhelms your desire to shop. www.alexacentre.com.

Grunerstr. 20. T: 030.269340121.

S+U Alexanderplatz. F3

BIKINI BERLIN BIKINI BERLIN combines shopping with a fun and relaxing experience. The historical building complex in Berlin's west end makes for interesting strolls, also offering beautiful views of the Berlin zoo and its animals, which can be admired both from indoors as well as from the rooftop terrace.

But the main attraction is the curated selection of shops, which include individual pop-up boxes frequently showcasing new designers, popular brands, and many design stores. www.bikiniberlin. de. Budapester Str. 38-50. T: 030.55496455.

S+U Zoologischer Garten. C4

Designer Outlet Berlin Your favorite designer brands with discounts up to 70 percent, at just 30 minutes from the city center. Also features cafes and restaurants, a children’s play area, free parking and more that 100 international brands. Shuttle bus from center on Fri-Sat. Bring a copy of Where Berlin to the office and get a further 10% off. Mon–Thu 10am–7pm, Fri and Sat to 8pm. www.designeroutletberlin.com.

Alter Spandauer Weg 1. T: 033234.9040.

Take the regional train to Elstal. Off Map

Europa Center This shopping mall on the Ku’damm offers a

Outlet Heaven Situated right along the Spree River in Kreuzberg, trendy online store Zalando offers a sprawling retail outlet boasting over 100 big brands reduced by up to 70 per cent.

Visitors to the 1000-square-meter store will find brands such as Michael Kors, Diesel, adidas, Desigual, Superdry, and Liebeskind on display, with an array of shoes, clothes and accessories for men and women. As Zalando’s first and only outlet store in Berlin, the creative and unique assortment of items is continually changing.

Köpenicker Str. 20, T: 0800 3300996. www.zalando.de www.wheretraveler.com 19

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YOUR BEACH ESSENTIALS Beach must-haves for sunbathing in style.

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10 1. Bikini by Guess, Mall of Berlin, Voßstr. 35. 2. Shoes by Marc Cain, Kurfürstendamm 69. 3. Hat by Marc Cain, Kurfürstendamm 69. 4. Swimsuit

by Seafolly, KaDeWe Tauentzienstr. 21-24. 5. Shoes by Marc Cain, Kurfürstendamm 69. 6. Bikini by Sportalm, Mall of Berlin, Voßstr. 35. 7. Bag by Replay, Mall of Berlin, Voßstr. 35. 8. Shoes by Gabor, Görtz, Friedrichstr. 67. 9. Sun protection by Nivea, Unter den Linden 28. 10. Blanket by Yves Delorme, Kurfürstendamm 51. 11. Nail polish by Catherine, Knesebeckstr. 35-37.

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SHOPPING and ready-to-wear clothing. www.maxmara.com.

Friedrichstr. 184, T: 030.20074945. U Stadtmitte.

E3; Kurfürstendamm 178. T: 030.8852545.

U Adenauerplatz. B4

Michael Sontag The Berlin designer sets himself apart with his masterful draping techniques, creating simple yet flattering feminine silhouettes out of flowing fabrics with equal measures of elegance and sex appeal. www.michaelsontag.com. Muskauer Str. 41. U Görlitzer Bahnhof. G4

Patrick Hellmann Among the most successful luxury brands in the fashion world, Patrick Hellmann stands for timelessness, elegant designs, quality materials, and extravagant details. There are also clothes

by Giorgio Armani, Christian Dior, and Dolce & Gabbana. www.patrick-hellmann.com.

Kurfürstendamm 190–192. T: 030.88487711.

U Adenauerplatz, U Uhlandstraße. B4

Silken Scarves

Planet Berlin

They tell interesting stories, they stir up emotions, and most of all, they look great!

CODELLO's foulard scarves are predominantly drawn and made by hand, and with their classic or animal prints against strong color compositions and bold geometric shapes, it's no wonder they've appealed to both men and women for decades. Unsure of how to tie your new favorite neckpiece? The friendly in-store sales team will be more than happy to show you the options.

Mall of Berlin. Voßstr. 35. T: 030 22605456. www.codello.de

Italian elegance for men. Specializes in highquality suits that are formal while also remaining comfortable, and also carries a sport casual collection. www.boggi.com. Kurfürstendamm 195196. T: 030.88921730. U Uhlandstraße. B4

By Anne

By Anne offers designer fashion from sought-after European labels such as cool Danish brand NÜ, Beate Heymann Street Couture, playful Spanish label Uno Piu Uno, and bags from By Lou Lou, together with other accessories to complement your new outfit. Unique art pieces are also on sale to help you express your individuality in the home or garden. www.byanne.de. Rosenthaler Str. 31.

T: 030.28879436. U Weinmeisterstr. F2

Cotélac The French just have that certain je ne sais quoi when it comes to style. Laid-back, breezy, comfortable, and nonetheless elegant, the Cotélac collections capture that quintessential French style in clothing and accessories for both women and men. Brand hallmarks are fine fabrics, subtle details and unique prints created with special dye and fabric techniques. Mulackstr. 6.

T: 030 53604074. www.cotelac.fr.

U Weinmeisterstraße. F2

designer depot This boutique in Mitte offers selected designer fashion, shoes, and accessories for men and ladies at up to 50 percent off. There are more than 30 international labels such as Calvin Klein, Iceberg, Roberto Cavalli, and Valentino. www.designerdepot.net. Rochstr. 2. T: 030.28046700.

U Weinmeisterstr. F2

Evelin Brandt This Berlin designer creates unique fashion for stylish women, including oversize fashion. www.

evelin-brandt.de. Friedrichstr. 153A. T: 030 2044444. U Französische Straße. E3

Finn's Mode This tiny store near Savignyplatz stocks a large variety of fashion items with a personality, for women "who know who they are and like to dress well." Brands include Piazza Sempione, Zenggi, Cambio, Le Tricot Perugia, and more, and the selection ranges from dresses and skirts to accessories like shoes and bags. www.finns-mode. de. Bleibtreustraße 47. T: 030.8832202.

U Uhlandstraße B4

Ganni Berlin Founded in Copenhagen, Ganni carries easy-to-wear pieces for women with an attitude who like to mix things up. Elegant and effortless clothing, lingerie, accessories, and shoes. www.ganni.com. Alte Schönhauser Str. 6. T: 030.27590966.

U Weinmeisterstr. F2

Strellson This Swiss company creates fashion for men who are on their way up or, as they say, for young men with big plans. Concentrating on clarity, the Strellson philosophy is based on clear cuts and top quality for their suits and other urban wears, as well as transparent values and work attitudes. www.strellson.com. Münzstr. 8. T: 030.24724042.

U Weinmeisterstraße. F2

Rebecca Store With a unique boudoir atmosphere, this concept store is a harmonious medley of European and American designers, including Yigal Azrouel, Vera Wang, and Gas Bijoux. All items are personally selected by owner Rebecca Zehden on her many trips abroad. www.rebecca-berlin. de. Alte Schönhauser Str. 41. T: 030 34620780.

U Weinmeisterstraße. F2

Find the perfect designer Talbot Runhof fashion at 50% off at Designers Johnny Talbot and Adrian Designer Depot, Runhof launched their label in Munich Rochstr. 2.

Goldsteg Designer Outlet This outlet store carries one-of-a-kind fashion pieces, exciting accessories and high-quality Italian leather bags by a wide range of designers. www.goldsteg.de. Carmerstr. 8.

T: 030 51307933. S Savignyplatz. B4

Michael Kors The New York-based designer Michael Kors is known for his ready-to-wear fashion and luxury accessories – bags, watches, jewelry, shoes, and other award-winning designs. www.michaelkors. com. Kurfürstendamm 219. T: 030.81825760.

U Uhlandstraße. C4; Rosenthaler Str. 37.

T: 030.24088690. U Weinmeisterstraße. F2

MaxMara One of the oldest and most prestigious Italian fashion houses, known for its quality craftsmanship

but have since gone global, branching out from glamorous evening gowns into everyday outfits and accessories. Discover the comprehensive range of dresses, separates, and knitwear, plus shoes and accessories in their Charlottenburg boutique. A brand hallmark is the complex, precise cuts and unusual seam placement used to create feminine, flattering silhouettes. Schlüterstr. 50.

T: 030 23363170. www.talbotrunhof.com.

U Uhlandstraße, S Savignyplatz. B4

UNIQLO Originally a chain of roadside stores in suburban Japan, this brand quickly became an Asian sensation and has now expanded to trendy urban hubs around the globe. Their Berlin flagship store has three floors of quality basics and fashion for women, men, and children. www.uniqlo.com.

Tauentzienstr. 7. T: 030 29028260.

COURTESY OF CODELLO

Boggi Milano

Described as "luxury with a touch of rock and roll," the store will have you decked out for your next glamorous night of clubbing. They stock classic labels such as Converse and Dr. Martens, as well as new labels like Japan Rags, whose jeans for both men and women have already achieved cult status. www.planetwear.de. Schlüterstr. 35. T: 030 8852717.

S Savignyplatz. B4

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U Wittenbergplatz. C4; Leipziger Platz 16.

S+U Potsdamer Platz. E3; Rosenthaler Str. 42; S Hackescher Markt. F3

Zalando Outlet The popular online shopping fashion market has a large outlet store in Berlin, featuring 1000 square meters of fashion and accessories from the world's top brands, sold at even lower prices. www.zalando. de. Köpenicker Str. 20. T: 0800.3300996.

U Schlesiches Tor. G4

NUMBER ONE IN SHOPPING, LEISURE & ENTERTAINMENT IN BERLIN MO - SA 10am - 9pm ALEXA AT ALEXANDERPLATZ OPEN ON SUNDAYS: FOOD COURT AND LEISURE AREA

SHOES & ACCESSORIES Boots & Shoes With their air-cushioned sole, lace-up style, and yellow stitching, the popular Doc Martens boots launched in the UK in 1960 wasc based on a prototype by German army doctor Klaus Märtens.

Check out many designs and colors of the famous boots at Boots & Shoes, from the classic 1460 model, to shiny blue, or floral print. Ballerinas, booties, clothing, and accessories round off the offering. www.drmartens.com. Dircksenstr. 49.

T: 0800.2070700. S+U Alexanderplatz. F3

180 SHOPS FASHION, ACCESSORIES, ELECTRONICS, BOOKS & MUCH MORE SHOPPING

Michael Kors The New York-based designer Michael Kors is known for his ready-to-wear fashion and luxury accessories – bags, watches, jewelry, shoes, and other award-winning designs. www.michaelkors. com. Kurfürstendamm 219. T: 030.81825760.

U Uhlandstr. C4; Rosenthaler Str. 37.

T: 030.24088690. F2

Sei Du selbst.

ALEXACENTRE.COM

New Era Flagship Store Looking for a new cap? This is the largest and fastest growing headwear producer in the world. There are more than 1000 styles over two floors, ranging from the classic baseball cap to modern designs, including their bestseller 59fifty, popular with the skater and hip hop crowd. www. neweracap.com. An der Spandauer Brücke 7.

T: 030.27890578.

Hackescher Markt. F2

Unützer Elegance, clarity in design, and top-quality manufacturing are what sets Unützer apart from many other shoe brands. Founded 25 years ago, this shoe label stands for elegance, clarity in design, and top-quality manufacture. The boots, pumps, and ballerinas are all made in a small town near Venice according to the century-old Italian tradition. www. unuetzer.com. Giesebrechtstr. 10. T: 030.88916710.

U Uhlandstraße. C4

JEWELRY & WATCHES Aris Diamond Since 1906, ARIS has been specializing in diamond jewelry, delivering everything from pendants, necklaces, and earrings, to fabulous engagement rings. Got a special occasion coming up? Check up their new shop in the Mall of Berlin for refined pieces. www.arisdiamond.com. www.mallofberlin. de. Leipziger Platz 12.

U Mohrenstraße. E3

Askania Founded in Berlin in 1871, Askania manufactures watches made to last a lifetime, combining precision with style and a touch of history. Visit the store housed in an old ballroom in the Hackesche Höfe, and try on Berlin-inspired models like "Alexanderplatz" or "Tempelhof". www.askania. www.wheretraveler.com 23

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ADVERTORIAL

The Bear Necessities With the recent arrival of two pandas from China, the Berlin zoo is in full-blown panda mania this summer. And while Berliners flock to the zoo by the hundreds to meet the furry giants, why not decorate your home with some panda-themed design objects?

French design emporium Pylones has created a line inspired by the black and white bear, with cups, cases, stationery, kitchenware, and other design products featuring the animal in its favorite habitat, the bamboo forest. And with dozens of other patterns and many animal-inspired gadgets and design objects, Pylones is a celebration of color, nature, and joie de vivre! www.pylones.com. Schloßstr. 32/32a. T: 030 92357108. Mon-Sat 10am-8pm; Kurfürstendamm 225. T: 030 92362488.

Mon–Sat 10am–9pm; Karl-Liebknecht-Str. 3. T: 030 80928130. Mon–Sat 10am–9pm.

berlin. T: 030.364285150. Rosenthaler Str. 41/41, Hackesche Höfe, Hof 1. S Hackescher Markt. F2

ROLEX Boutique One of the most famous brands in luxury, Rolex has been making wristwatches since 1905. First created in England, the company soon moved to Switzerland, and its perfect timepieces are recognized worldwide as the ultimate symbol of elegance and refinement. www.rolex.de. www.wempe.com. Kurfürstendamm 184.

T: 030.55669010. U Uhlandstraße. E2

Wempe One of the oldest family businesses in Germany is renowned for its passion for fine jewelry and watches, and for its precision timepieces. www. wempe.de. Kurfürstendamm 215. See website for more locations. T: 030.8826878. U Uhlandstraße.

C4; Friedrichstr. 82. T: 030.20399920.

U Französische Straße. E3

HOME DÉCOR Home on Earth Located in the Hackesche Höfe, this store offers home décor items made from natural materials combined with Scandinavian design. Founded by a German-Danish pair in Barcelona, this is the first store to hit Germany. www.homeonearth.com.

Hackesche Höfe/Hof V, Rosenthaler Str. 40-41.

T: 030 2834354. S Hackescher Markt F2

Promobo Many of the fun offbeat, eye-catching design objects, such as jewelry, handbags, and gifts are made by hand in small workshops around Germany, using plenty of recycled materials like bike inner tubes and cork. www.promobo.de.

Rosenthalerstr. 40–41, Hackesche Höfe 3 & 5.

S Hackescher Markt. F2

Pylones These household products are created to add a spark to our daily lives, filling it with color and fun.

The designers choose zoomorphic themes. www.pylones.com. Kurfürstendamm 225 (check website for other store locations).

T: 030.92362488. U Kurfürstendamm. C4

BEAUTY & WELLNESS Babor Specializing in beauty driven by science, Babor creates skincare solutions for every woman’s unique needs. Top-sellers at the flagship store include vitamin-rich skin serums and deluxe foundations with a lifting effect. www.babor.de. Französische Str. 48.

T: 030. 20622222.

U Französische Straße. E3

Catherine Nail Salon The popular Catherine nailcare brand now has a nail salon here in Berlin. Stop by or make an appointment for some grooming time between shopping and

sightseeing. www.catherine-berlin.de. Knesebeck Str. 35. T: 030. 55214475. U Uhlandstraße. E3

Frau Tonis Parfum The perfume boutique offers scents inspired by the city, like Pure Violet, originally composed for Marlene Dietrich. Take a scent test to find the fragrances that suit you best or ask customize your own bottle. www.frau-tonis-parfum.com.

Zimmerstr. 13. T: 030.20215310.

U Kochstraße. E4

Parfumsalon An exclusive perfume boutique that has been offering fragrances for more than five decades. The shop's selection include rarities and special aromas, all hand-picked by owner and perfume expert Mario Worms. www.parfumsalon.de. Uhlandstr. 173-174.

T: 030.8827306. E3

ELECTRONICS Sennheiser This German brand stands for innovation in the world of audio electronics, from microphones and speakers to headsets and more. The cuttingedge wireless headphones in particular are prized by pro musicians, DJs, music fans, and gamers alike. Test out all the latest models at the Charlottenburg store. www. sennheiser.com.

Tauentzienstr. 17. T: 030.23630162.

U Wittenbergplatz. C4

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ZALANDO OUTLET STORE

UP TO 70% OFF *

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DAILY CHANGING COLLECTION

MORE THAN 500 TOP BRANDS

SCHLESISCHES TOR BERLIN KREUZBERG

Köpenicker Straße 20, 10997 Berlin | Monday − Saturday 10 am − 8 pm * Compared to the manufacturer’s suggested retail price. www.zalando-outlet.de

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ADVERTORIALS

AUDIO EXPERIENCE

Visit us Monday to Saturday 10 am to 8 pm

Sennheiser Store Berlin

Tauentzienstr. 17 - 10789 Berlin S-Bahn/U-Bahn Zoologischer Garten U-Bahn Wittenbergplatz

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MICHAEL KORS

More than a century of precision craftsmanship comes to the Ku'damm in the form of Germany's first Rolex Boutique.

The flagship store offers a distinctive experience, including an exclusive setting and world-class service.

This exclusive perfume boutique has been offering extraordinary fragrances since the 1960s. Mario Worms is an expert in perfume counseling, offering advice on the perfect scent for every client, and the shop's selection includes rare bottles and unusual aromas.

Uhlandstr. 173-174. T: 030 8827306 www.parfumsalon.de

Michael Kors is a world-renowned designer of luxury accessories and ready-to-wear, offering a lifestyle for the consummate jet setter that is as sophisticated as it is indulgent and as glamorous as it is modern.

Open Mon-Sat 10am-8pm.

Kurfürstendamm 219.

T: 030 81825760 www.michaelkors.com

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HALLHUBER

MARC CAIN

Rich & Royal

THOMAS SABO

Deichmann

Hollister

Marc O’Polo

Runners Point

Tom Tailor

HUGO BOSS

MASSIMO DUTTI

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TOMMY HILFIGER

Hunkemöller

Mavi

daughters

Tommy Hilfiger Denim

INTIMISSIMI

MAX & CO.

Salamander

Mephisto

Sarar

DESIGUAL Dogo Shoes Einblick Optik Engelsrufer & Co.

Jack & Jones

Esprit

C&A

MANKIND

Calvin Klein Jeans

Airfield

CALZEDONIA

ARIS Art of

Casano

JD Sports

FALKE

KARL LAGERFELD

FASHION CLUB

Kingz

Fast Forward

Konplott

Foot Locker

LACOSTE

Fossil

Levi’s

Fashion & Accessories 7 FOR ALL

Eterna

French Connection

Diamond

Change

ARMANI JEANS

CHRIST

Backlash

CINQUE

GANT

Bershka

Claire’s

GINA TRICOT

BIJOU BRIGITTE

Clarks Ecco

GUESS

BREE

Codello

H&M

LIEBESKIND

Frisco Jeans G-Star Raw

Muji

Schiesser

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Schuh Bode

Nike

SHOE CITY

Oakley

Sidestep

Olymp

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Trigema Triumph TWIN-SET UN1DEUX2TROIS3 Undiz Vans VERO MODA

PANDORA

SNIPES

Passionata

Sportalm Kitzbühel

WE-Fashion

Peak Performance

SPORTSCHECK

Wigglesteps

Lief!

Peek &

Street Shoes

WORMLAND

Liu Jo

Cloppenburg

STRELLSON

ZARA

LLOYD

Pepe Jeans

Sunglass Hut

ZERO

Look 54

Reno

SWAROVSKI

MANGO

Replay

Taschenparadies

...and the biggest Foodhall.

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Selected shops for the Savvy Shopper ®

Berlin

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A PLACE FOR SHOPPING ARKADEN SHOPS geöffnet Mo.–Sa., 10–21 Uhr POTSDAMERPLATZ.DE

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Knesebeckstr. 35-37.

T: 030 55214475 www.catherine-berlin.de

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Uhlandstraße Papeterie Caran D‘ache Catherine Nail Salon

Berlingold

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Belle Rebelle 0039 Italy

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This young Berlin label stands for fashion with an attitude for both men and women.

With rule-breaking contrasts and rebellious elements set against a timeless soul, Be Edgy provides young and cheeky individuals with perfectly cut leather jackets and accessories, all made with high-quality leather. Bring in discount code “whereXbeedgy” and get 10% off – valid until the end of 2017.

Savignyplatz

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Cimp Schmuckdesign Paper & Tea Buffalo KANTSTRASSE SavignySchuhtick platz

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JOACHIMSTHALER STR.

SHOP STOP

Make a good first impression with beautifully manicured hands. This hotspot for hand and nail cosmetics hinges upon expert beauticians and top-quality products from the Catherine Nail Collection. Delivering to beauty salons worldwide, the brand is renowned in nail design and presents their selection now in their own studio just off Berlin’s luxury shopping strip, the Ku’damm.

MEINEKESTR.

Leibnizstr. 60 T: 03030831810 www.beatricevontresckow.com

CATHERINE NAIL SALON

STR.

Beatrice creates opulent, bold and colorful clothes for women who like to turn heads.

Sumptuous fabrics and detailed embroidery communicate Beatrice's international upbringing and form the hallmarks of the collections' jackets, blouses and dresses.

R. UHLANDSTR.

BEATRICE VON TRESCKOW

SHOP STOP

SCHLÜTERSTR.

SHOP STOP

ADVERTORIALS

Marooush LIETZENBURG

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Bleibtreustr. 27. T: 030 8839639 www.be-edgy.de SHOP STOP

SHOP STOP

UNÜTZER

Elegance, clarity in design, and top-quality manufacturing are what sets Unützer apart from many other shoe brands. Founded 25 years ago, this shoe label quickly earned international fame thanks to the excellent quality of its products, which are made in a small town near Venice according to the century-old Italian tradition.

BELLE REBELLE

The Charlottenburg boutique offers fragrance lovers a break from the everyday, with scents you won't find in your neighborhood department store. Staff are renowned for their expertise, so come prepared to ask your toughest beauty questions. The cosmetics and personal-care products for men and women are as singular as the perfume selection.

Bleibtreustr. 42. T: 030 679672050 www.bellerebelle.de

Gold chains, tassels, and striking colors are some of the shoes’ decorative elements, and materials include the whole range of luxury, from the finest calf leather to exotic skins, including crocodile and ostrich, all personally selected by Fritz Unützer himself. Walk into the Charlottenburg boutique, and try on a pair of boots, pumps, or ballerinas, all perfect accessories to any glamorous and feminine outfit.

Giesebrechtstr. 10/corner Kurfürstendamm.

T: 030 88916710 www.unuetzer.com

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Berlin

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A DIVIDED CITY

BY ANN-SOPHIE JUGEL AND RACHEL STERN

I

n the days after the Berlin Wall fell on 9 November, 1989, there was an atmosphere of exuberance in West Berlin. Many cafes handed out celebratory free “welcome coffee” to East Berliners, and there were long lines in front of the banks, as no one knew for how long the “welcome premium” of 100 German marks would be distributed.

"My first time in West Berlin was an overwhelming and emotional experience.

Everyone was so friendly,” says Ines Thomas, who was a 21-yearold student at Humboldt University in East Berlin when the Wall came down.

Thomas was studying to become a Spanish and English translator, hopeful to see the countries and cultures she could not while living in closed-off East Berlin. She and her family were not even allowed to visit the Western part of Berlin.

Like the other more than 16 million residents of the German Democratic Republic (GDR), Thomas experienced many restrictions: There were frequent

food and supply shortages, daily life was heavily monitored by secret state police (Stasi), and travel to the West was heavily forbidden. Upon the fall of the Wall, Thomas was particularly struck by the colorful graffiti on the Western side: in the East, no one had been allowed to come close to the Wall, leaving its appearance drab and grey.

For Oliver Bugge, who was 24 and living in Spandau in West Berlin when the Wall fell, the physical barrier was his only indication of the harsh realities of life for people on the other side at the time. "My jogging route ran alongside the Wall for about one kilometer,” remembers Bugge. “At two points, there were wooden crosses, with faded photographs and a bouquet of flowers: impromptu graves belonging to two victims who had been shot by the border police attempting to flee.”

Every time Bugge’s family left West Berlin, guards rigorously inspected their car at the border, leading his normally self-assured father to slump into nervousness and fear.

DID YOU KNOW? • • Checkpoint Charlie is the most famous of all the Berlin Wall border crossings, but there were others: Checkpoint Alpha, on the highway west of Berlin, and Checkpoint Bravo, at the southwest corner of the city.

The Berlin Wall was guarded by a total of 302 watchtowers, positioned strategically and manned by soldiers with orders to shoot to kill. Only three remain today: one of them is on Erna-Berger-Straße near Potsdamer Platz.

Top photo: A watchtower in front of the Berlin Wall; Above: views of the Wall; Inset, left: Joy at Brandenburg Gate the day after the Wall came down.

•

When Berlin was divided, the border cut through many U-Bahn lines. Affected stations were shut down and trains were only allowed to pass through, with passengers greeted by the sight of armed East German soldiers guarding the platform.

•

The Wall may be long gone but the division can still be seen from space. After WWII, the West replaced the old, yellow-glowing streetlights with fluorescent white ones, while the East kept the old lamps. The differing shades are still evident today.

MAIN PHOTO: © ISTOCK; ARCHIV BUNDESSTIFTUNG AUFARBEITUNG, FOTOBESTAND HARALD SCHMIDT; ARCHIV BUNDESSTIFTUNG AUFARBEITUNG, FOTOBESTAND UWE GERIG; BERLINER MAUER: © WIKIMEDIA COMMONS; B&W IMAGE: PHOTO BY STEFFEN OSTERKAMP.

On 9 November, 1989, the Berlin Wall came down and the Cold War ended. For many Berliners, the barrier still remains an important childhood memory.

2 THE BERLIN WALL SPECIAL PULLOUT SEC TION

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The Berlin Wall was

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When Berlin was divided,

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THE BORDER breakdown

A

fter the orders to close the borders were given on 12 August, 1961, East German troops and workers began to tear up the streets running alongside, making it impassable for vehicles, and installing more than 150 kilometers of barbed-wire fences around the Allied sectors. Many families were divided overnight and East Berliners employed in the West were cut off from their livelihoods. Soon after, the initial concrete blocks were put into place and soldiers on guard were told to shoot anyone who attempted to defect. A second parallel fence was built the following year, about 100 meters farther into East Germany territory. The area in between was razed and covered with raked sand, rendering footprints easy to detect and providing a clear line of fire at escapees, creating the so-called "death strip." The Wall kept evolving throughout the years, making it ever harder to get through – reinforced by signal fencing, anti-vehicle trenches, dogs, "beds of nails" under balconies, smooth piping on top, and more than 100 watchtowers. West Berlin became an isolated enclave in a hostile nation.

EAST BERLIN

WEST BERLIN

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For every voucher, a maximum of 2 guests will be granted entry at a reduced admission price of 25% instead of the regular walk-up price. Valid at Little BIG City Berlin. Please proactively hand in this voucher at the till when purchasing tickets. This voucher cannot be combined with other discounts, annual passes, pre-sale tickets or online tickets. No refunds or cash reimbursement.

Redeemable until 31.10.2017. PLU1725921.

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PULLOUT SPECIAL

PAST AND PRESENT

A historical game of spot the difference - 1980s Berlin versus today.

–HISTORIC PHOTOS BY BERND MAYWALD

BEFORE AFTER

REICHSTAG Severly damaged in the 1933 fire, Berlin's house of parliament wasn't fully restored until after German reunification, by famous architect Norman Foster. The huge glass dome was erected as a gesture to the original 1894 cupola, and symbolizes transparency.

AFTER

BRANDENBURG GATE Right in front of this monumental entry to the renowned Unter den Linden boulevard was the Wall, and to the east, a border crossing. When the border was opened, thousands of people gathered here to celebrate, reinforcing it as a symbol of peace.

AFTER

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BEFORE POTSDAMER PLATZ This square went from Europe's most bustling traffic intersection to total wasteland during WWII, followed by desolation during the Cold War era when the Berlin Wall bisected the area. It has now been restored to its former glory.

"BEFORE" PHOTOS BY BERND MAYWALD. "AFTER" PHOTOS: © ISTOCK PHOTO

BEFORE

18/07/2017 15:56

BUILDING AND MEMORIAL: © ISTOCK PHOTO; SOLDIER: DETAIL OF A PHOTO BY ANDERS ISBERG, FLICKR.COM, CREATIVE COMMONS.

The Great Escapes

Left: Murals on a building depict the construction of the Wall. Above: Memorial to the victims of the Wall. Right: A detail of a mural on a Bernauerstr. building portrays the famous photo by Peter Leibing of East German soldier Conrad Schumann as he jumps over the barbed wire to West Berlin.

Visit the sites where a few brave souls made the journey from East Berlin to freedom.

ALBRECHTSHOF STATION In December 1961, train engineer Harry Deterling drove a steam train full of 25 escapees – including his wife, children, and extended family – straight across the border into West Berlin's Spandau district. As an employee of the Reichsbahn, he had insider knowledge that that useful stretch of railway track was about to be dismantled. Seven people on the train were not part of the escape plot, and voluntarily returned to the East on foot.

RUPPINER STRASSE & BERNAUER STRASSE East German soldier Conrad Schumann's flight to West Berlin is so famous that there's a statue of him on Brunnenstraße a few blocks south of where the escape took place.

Schumann was only 19 in August 1961 when he was stationed to guard the Berlin Wall on its third day of construction. "Come over!"

West Berliners on the other side shouted to

him, and he suddenly dropped his gun and leaped over the barbed wire. The photo of him in mid-leap quickly became iconic.

CHECKPOINT CHARLIE Love was the motive behind one of the most spectacular escapes at the heavily guarded Checkpoint Charlie. To get his girlfriend into the West in 1963, Austrian Heinz Meixner rented a sporty little Austin-Healey convertible, removed the windshield, and let enough air out of the tires to ensure the car could pass under the checkpoint's 95-cmhigh barrier gate. When he sped through on a quiet Sunday at midnight, his girlfriend Margarete was huddled behind the driver's seat and his future mother-in-law was in the trunk, surrounded by bricks in case the guards opened fire.

THREE BROTHERS, THREE ESCAPES Siblings Ingo, Holger, and Egbert Bethke each escaped from East to West one by one. In 1975 Ingo went first, paddling across the Elbe

River north of Berlin on an air mattress. In 1983, Holger used a bow and arrow to shoot a string from an apartment in Treptow (East) to Neukölln (West). Together with Ingo, waiting on the other side, the brothers set up a zip line and Holger zipped across into the West, landing on a balcony. Finally, in 1989, the two brothers in the West flew ultralight planes, disguised in the colors of the Soviet military, to pluck their last brother, Egbert, out of the East. Ingo landed his plane in Treptower Park, where Egbert was hiding in the bushes, according to plan. He jumped on board and they flew back to safety, landing in front of Tiergarten Park.

TRAGIC ENDINGS Numerous escape attempts, however, ended in tragedy. One of the first fatalities was Peter Fechter, 18, who was shot by an East German guard in 1962 when he tried to run over to the West. He was left to bleed to death as horrified onlookers watched, leading to spontaneous demonstrations in the West.

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Mühlenstr. 78-80. www.thewallmuseum.com THE GERMAN SPY MUSEUM Delve into the world of espionage with two floors of interactive exhibits.

Leipziger Platz 9. www.deutschesspionagemuseum.de MUSEUM IN DER KULTURBRAUEREI This exhibition focuses on everyday life in the GDR. Knaackstr. 97. www.hdg.de

BERLIN WALL NEAR OSTBAHNHOF: ©ESTRAFALARIUS, WIKIMEDIA COMMONS.

TRÄNENPALAST German for "palace of tears," this border crossing witnessed many farewells of family members separated by the Wall.

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THE DDR MUSEUM Learn more about daily life in East Germany and by the Berlin Wall.

Karl-Liebknecht-Str. 1. www.ddr-museum.de CHECKPOINT CHARLIE The most famous border crossing during the Cold War has been reconstructed. U Kochstraße

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ASISI WALL PANORAMA A journey back in time to a winter day in 1983. Experience life by the Wall at this life-sized installation.

Friedrichstr. 205. www.asisi.de

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Main moments in the Wall’s 29-year history Walter Ulbricht,

1961 head of the

Socialist Unity Party, erects a barbed-wire fence dividing Germany into two parts.

West

1963 Germans

US President

1963 John F. Kennedy

wishing to visit the East must obtain a visa from the government.

delivers his “Ich bin ein Berliner” speech at West Berlin’s Rathaus Schöneberg.

Economic

1970 dissatisfaction grows in East Germany as food supplies run short.

22 strikes attest to the civil unrest.

Günter

1974 Guillaume, aide to West German chancellor Willy Brandt, is arrested as a spy.

East

1984 Germany boycotts the Summer Olympic Games in Los Angeles.

Ronald Reagan

1987 gives a speech at Brandenburg Gate demanding that Mikhail Gorbachev “tear down this wall.”

Dismantling of the

1989 Iron Curtain begins as Hungary cuts the barbed wire around its border.

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BACK TO 1987 With the fall of the Wall came Ostalgie, a German term referring to nostalgia for aspects of life in East Germany. Feeling a bit ostalgic today? Visit these old GDR locations for a journey back in time to 1987.

The STASI Prison

Checkpoint Charlie Friedrichstr. 47 / corner Zimmerstr.

10117 Berlin-Mitte Daily 10 a.m. to 6 p.m.

Visitors’ service info@bfgg.de More information www.zentrum-kalter-krieg.de

EASTERN SOUVENIRS Stock up on East German souvenirs and furniture for friends and family at Dederon Design. www.dederon-design.de

# Daily Guided Tours

GDR DESIGN Discover the quirky side of GDR interiors at themed hostel Ostel. www.ostel.eu

# Permanent Exhibition

TRABI SAFARI Tour the city aboard a real Trabant, the iconic East German car. www.trabi-world.com

#Audio-guides

GDR GROCERIES Ostalgic palates can get their fix at Ostpaket, an online supermarket selling the flavors of their GDR childhood. www.ostprodukte-versand.de

Berlin-Hohenschönhausen Memorial Genslerstr. 66, 13055 Berlin Tel. 030 / 98608230 www.stiftung-hsh.de

EVERYDAY ITEMS Selling GDR highlights from 1960s and 1970s, from home decór to apparel. www.veborange.de

05.07.17 17:36

© Stiftung Berliner Mauer, J. Hohmuth

PLATTENBAUMUSEUM AZ_Blackbox_57x124mm.indd 2 Step inside a popular GDR "pre-fab" apartment, unchanged since the 1980s. www.stadtundland.de

COURTESY OF DDR MUSEUM

BERLIN WALL NEAR OSTBAHNHOF: ©ESTRAFALARIUS, WIKIMEDIA COMMONS.

EXHIBITION BLACKBOX COLD WAR

9 November: Socialist Politbüro

1989 member Schabowski mistakenly tells a press conference the border will be opened immediately. By 11pm that night, thousands of Berliners have swarmed Wall checkpoints and guards open the borders.

On the eve of 3

1990 October, the city officially celebrates its first German Unity Day with fireworks and bells.

DISCOVER THE ORIGINAL WALL! Bernauer Str. 119 | 13355 Berlin Tue – Sun 10 a.m. – 6 p.m. | Free admission Open Air Exhibition | Tours | Workshops www.berliner-mauer-gedenkstaette.de THE BERLIN WALL SPECIAL PULLOUT SEC TION 7

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105.5km

of anti-vehicle trenches

155km Total length around West Berlin

138

259 Number of dog runs.

Number of people who died trying to cross the border

43.1km

Length of border between East and West Berlin

106km

Length of the concrete wall

28 yEArs,

3 mONths Time the Wall stood

20

302 watchtowers

3.6m

Number of bunkers

Height of the concrete wall

HISTORIC PHOTO BY BERND MAYWALD. B&W WALL BACKGROUND: © ISTOCK.

THE WALL IN NUMBERS

BERLIN: CAPITAL OF SPIES A thrilling journey through the history of espionage

Leipziger Platz 9, 10117 Berlin, Potsdamer Platz, Open daily 10 am – 8 pm, www.deutsches-spionagemuseum.de

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SHOPPING MAPS

ADVERTORIALS

SHOP STOP

FRIEDRICHSTRASSE

YSTR

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Friedrichstadt-Palast

TUCH

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GALERIES LAFAYETTE /Q207

COS Massimo Dutti Wempe Montblanc BABOR

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TA UB EN ST RA SS

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MO HR EN ST R. MEISSEN im Hilton Stadtmitte/U2 Gudrun Sjödén

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TA UB EN ST R. Hausvogteiplatz

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Checkpoint Charlie Frau Tonis Parfum

The exclusive Parisian department store brings French charm to Berlin with five floors of fashion, accessories, beauty products and delicacies. Galeries Lafayette is located in the Quartier 207, where you can shop at Butlers, Cashmere House, Le Nails, Le Tanneur, Manon Chocolaterie, Max&Co, Opera´s, and Sathea.

Friedrichstr. 76–78. T: 030 209480. galerieslafayette.de SHOP STOP

SS E

LEIP ZIGE R STRA SSE

CH AR LO TT EN

SS E

ST RA SS E

Marc Cain

LE IP ZI GE R ST RA

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MEISSEN KPM Berlin LACOSTE

FR IE DR IC H ST

EN

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KRIGLER @ Hotel Adlon

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Evelin Brandt Crines Design Mephisto

Beauty meets science at this skincare institute. Owner and cosmetics expert Christiane Lingner offers high-level treatments such as deluxe facials, skin analyses, purifying sessions, manicures, pedicures, as well as intensive and strengthening treatments for the gentlemen.

Head to the flagship store for vitamin-rich serums and foundations with a lifting effect.

Französische Str. 48. T: 030 20622222 www.babor-berlin.de

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FRAU TONIS PARFUM This perfume manufactory has been described as Berlin’s most unique perfumery.

Try classics such as Linde Berlin, or Pure Violet, Marlene Dietrich’s favorite fragrance.

For something more personal, join other scent aficionados from all over the world and create your own, private perfume.

Zimmerstr. 13 (Checkpoint Charlie).

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SHOPPING MAPS

ADVERTORIALS

SHOP STOP

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COTÉLAC The French have that certain je ne sais quoi when it comes to style. Laid-back, breezy, comfortable, and nonetheless elegant, the Cotélac collections are created by Raphaëlle Cavalli and capture that quintessential French style in clothing and accessories for both women and men.

Brand hallmarks are special dyes and folding techniques, inlays, unique prints, and exquisite detail when it comes to treating fabrics.

With over 100 boutiques in France and abroad, you can check out the latest Fall-Winter 2017/18 collection in their store on Mulackstraße, Berlin’s so-called designer central.

Mulackstr. 6. T: 030 53604074 www.cotelac.fr

SHOP STOP

Combining precision with style, ASKANIA makes elegant, classic timepieces to last a lifetime. Visit their flagship store, housed in a landmarkprotected ballroom in the famous Hackesche Höfe complex, to try on Berlin-inspired models like the Alexanderplatz and the Tempelhof watches.

Rosenthaler Str. 40/41, Hackesche Höfe, Hof 1. T: 030 364285150 www.askania.berlin

HACKESCHER MARKT AND MITTE Rosenthaler Platz

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With their air-cushioned sole, lace-up style, and yellow stitching, the popular Dr. Martens boots have been a fashion statement since 1960. At Boots & Shoes, you can choose from many designs and colors of the legendary boot, plus other brands such as Hunter and Converse.

Barcelona-founded Home on Earth offers products combining sustainability and Nordic design, each produced without wasting any resources. Using almost exclusively natural materials such as bamboo, wool, coconut, mango and hemp. The store opened its first branch in Germany in December 2015.

Dircksenstr. 49. T: 080 02070700 www.drmartens.com

Hackesche Höfe/Hof V, Rosenthaler Str. 40-41. www.homeonearth.com

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Lala Berlin Wolfen Germany Boutique Hoho Berlin E S S A M R V U OLKE STST Cotélac R LA LACKSTRA AUGU Greta S NG S tore SE & Luis Ka S T EIN Trippen tje S TRA sC SSE afé GIPSS Gr TRAS SE ün Onitsuka L REBECCA HIRT O i Be eb SOP ENS n S es hr Skunkfunk HIE TRA he kin NST SSE r ma d Weinmeisterstr. Freitag RAS 11 n SE Ma Trüffelschwein vi Oakley Promobo MÜ Scotch & Soda Michael Kors N Z MÜHLE Store Berlin STR Ad MCM ASS ida As Dr IK We Anine Bing E s e k Home on earth Bu ani ykor KS kda designer depot a n y f UN falo Hackesche Höfe IQ & Shoes LO Boots Volution Sports Mykita KSENSTRASSE Riccardo Cartillone DIRC MO Frosch & Königin NB IJO New Era Flagship Store UP L. SE Hackescher Markt TRAS HS C RO Onepiece Concept Store

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PROMOBO Pick up something totally unique at Promobo, a shop concept dedicated to fun, offbeat, eyecatching design objects. Many of the home décor items, fashion, and gifts are made in small workshops around Germany using recycled materials.

Rosenthalerstr. 40–41, Hackesche Höfe 3 & 5. T: 030 30347671 www.promobo.de

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museum für gestaltung klingelhöferstr. 14, d-10785 berlin

daily except tue., 10 am – 5 pm www.bauhaus.de

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SIGHTSEEING | THE GUIDE

Splash!

There’s only a short window in Berlin when the temperature gauge goes above 30 degrees, but when it does, Annabelle Mallia hits the lakes pronto. the playground. After lunch, go for a walk around the lake and find a quiet spot to retreat. The grassy meadow leading down to the shore on the Schlachtensee S-Bahn station side has more of a party atmosphere.

However, the lido that has been most popular amongst Berliners for decades is surely Strandbad Wannsee near S-Bahn Nikolassee. With over a kilometer of white sand imported from the Baltic coast, it has space for 30,000 bathers as well as numerous

dining options, boat rentals, beach volleyball, and of course a nudist zone, not to mention the majestic view of the yacht-club-rimmed expanse of water.

The east’s counterpart to Wannsee and actually Berlin’s largest lake is Müggelsee.

With three official bathing areas and a range of water sports on offer, from canoeing to standup paddling and windsurfing, it’s easily a whole day’s worth of fun. Just don’t forget to pack the sunscreen.

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There are many things we associate with Berlin: the war, the Wall, Museum Island, or nightclubbing – but swimming isn’t one of them. However, with over 80 lakes around the city, taking a dip feels as natural as cycling. You can bathe in the complete wilderness or pay a small entry fee to a Strandbad, offering various facilities and those iconic wicker chairs Germans love. Here are my favorite refreshing dips.

Possibly the most idyllic lake in Berlin due to its small size, Krumme Lanke sits on the edge of Grunewald forest in the southwestern part of Berlin. Served by its own U-Bahn station, it is very easy to get to and has numerous shady spots where you can enter the clear water. In true German fashion, the nudist beach is the first one you reach and the sandy beach is on the other end.

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MAJOR SIGHTS

Charlottenburg Palace

The “Alex” TV Tower The 368m- (1027ft)-high TV tower of Alexanderplatz can be seen from almost any point in the city and has been iconic of Berlin ever since it was built by the GDR in 1969. The giant steel-clad sphere atop houses a revolving restaurant and café as well as a viewing platform. The elevator ride lasts 40 seconds. Arrive early to avoid lines. Daily 9am–midnight (Nov–Feb from 10am). €13/8.50. www.tv-turm.de. Panoramastr. 1a.

T: 030.24757537. S+U Alexanderplatz. F3

Berliner Dom The city’s neo-Renaissance cathedral was begun in the late 1700s, finished in 1905, and renovated in simplified form after WWII damage. Walk up 267 steps for glorious views of the city from the dome, or stay on the ground floor to gaze at elaborate sarcophagi containing the royal remains of Hohenzollern family members. Thanks to the church’s perfect acoustics and a 7200-pipe organ, the Dom is also an important concert venue. Mon– Sun 9am–8pm (winter until 7pm). €7/4. www.berlinerdom.de. Am Lustgarten.

T: 030.20269119. S Hackescher Markt. E3/F3

The summer home of Sophie Charlotte, wife of King Friedrich I of Prussia, reflects the grandeur of the Hohenzollern family. Begun in 1695, the luxury Baroque complex consists of a main building with a central cupola and two side wings, added in later years, that enclose a courtyard. The picturesque park surrounding the castle includes a formal French-style garden, English garden with pond and statues, belvedere, and mausoleum. The castle hosts temporary art and history exhibitions.

Tue–Sun 10am–6pm (winter until 5pm). €12/8. www.spsg.de. Spandauer Damm 20-24.

T: 030.9694200. U Sophie-Charlotte-Platz. A3

HIER SPIELT DIE ZUKUNFT!

Hackesche Höfe An intricate series of interconnected courtyards provides an example of early-19th-century German Secessionist style. The first courtyard is entirely decorated with glazed blue-and-white tiles in geometric designs, while the apartment buildings and narrow, maze-like alleys lined with cafés, shops, and theaters give the Höfe an atmosphere both familiar and fascinating. Rosenthaler Str. 4041. S Hackescher Markt. E2/F2

Kaiser-Wilhelm-Gedächtniskirche

Brandenburg Gate MUST SEE The definitive Berlin icon, Carl Gotthard

Langhans’ Neoclassical triumphal arch has witnessed the city’s best and worst moments, from the military parades of the Third Reich to the Wall being raised and torn down. Formerly behind GDR borders, today the gate acts mainly as the backdrop for festivals, New Year’s Eve parties, and tourist snapshots. U Brandenburger Tor. D3/E3

The church’s bombed-out bell tower has been an anti-war memorial and symbol of West Berlin ever since its ruins were restored to their present state in 1957. The old church now hosts an exhibition of before-and-after photos documenting its and Ku'damm's former splendor. Inside, look up to admire what remains of the old mosaic. Daily 9am–7pm. www.gedaechtniskirche-berlin.de.

2017 17. AUG BIS 03. SEPT KONZERTHAUS BERLIN

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Scary Fun In The Dungeon Experience 800 years of Berlin's most terrifying history at Berlin Dungeon, which will have you both laughing and screaming during a 60-minute journey through the city's darkest past. You'll come face-to-face with sinister characters such as the infamous serial killer Carl Grossmann, who may have claimed as many as 50 victims, and with the legendary Weisse Frau, one of the city's most feared ghosts – and if you are looking for strong emotions, go for a ride on Exitus, the city's only indoor free-fall tower.

For the whole month of August and until 3 Sep, you can also hear the bone-chilling story of the headless knight Erich Valke, in the new show Kopflos. Valke was betrayed by his squire, and centuries later, he is still looking for a new prince to serve. Could that be you? Spandauer Str. 2. www.thedungeons.com/berlin/en. S+U Alexander Platz

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SIGHTSEEING Breitscheidplatz. T: 030.2185023.

U Zoologischer Garten, Kurfürstendamm. C4

Nikolaiviertel and Knoblauchhaus The Nikolaiviertel is where Berlin was born, and the area still retains its ancient character, although most of the buildings in the narrow medieval alleys are replicas of destroyed originals that dated back to the 1200s. The late-Gothic Nikolaikirche, Berlin’s oldest surviving building, is now a museum. Other points of interest include the Ephraim Palais Museum and the Biedermeierstyle Knoblauchhaus, a 19th-century middleclass townhouse that escaped WWII damage.

Knoblauch Haus: Tue–Sun 10am–6pm. www.knoblauchhaus.de. Poststr. 23.

T: 030.240020171. S+U Alexanderplatz. F3

Potsdamer Platz Before the war, Potsdamer Platz was the city’s beating heart, with department stores, banks, internationally known theaters, dance halls, and cafés. WWII bombs obliterated 80 percent of the square, which was left in limbo for a few years and then enclosed in a no-man’s-land between the Wall and barbed wire fences. The square came back to life in the 1990s as a modern reinterpretation of its original self. Divided in three slices, it includes the Sony building with its central plaza; Daimler City, home to a large shopping mall; and the Manhattan-style Beisheim Center building. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Reichstag and Foster’s Glass Cupola MUST SEE In the last 100 years, the massive neo-Renaissance building, now the seat of German

Parliament, has been bombed, set on fire, wrapped by artist Christo, and renovated by Lord Norman Foster. Climb the glass cupola for a 360-degree view of the city, then gaze down at parliament in session.

The plenary hall can be visited only on guided tours.

Cupola: Daily 8am–midnight by appointment only.

Free. Register on website; it is recommended to do so at least three days prior to your visit. Audio tours available. www.bundestag.de. Platz der Republik 1.

T: 030.22732152. U Bundestag. D3/E3

HISTORIC SITES

berliner-mauer-gedenkstaette.de. Bernauer Str. 111. U Bernauer Straße. E2

Checkpoint Charlie During the Cold War, Checkpoint Charlie was the main gateway between East and West. Shortly after the Wall went up, US and Soviet tanks faced each other on this spot. Today, the crossing point acts primarily as a backdrop for tourist photographs. U Kochstraße, U Stadtmitte. E3/E4

East Side Gallery

While West Berliners loved to express their creativity by drawing Yadegar Asisi created a panorama In 1995, artist Christo graffiti and painting on the Wall, of divided Berlin, presenting wrapped up the East Berliners were never allowed Reichstag in 100,000 everyday life against the backdrop to use the dividing structure as a sq.m. of polypropylene of the Wall on an imaginary day in canvas. To make up for all the artless fabric. the 1980s. The artist's aim was to show years, artists from 21 countries were how the population came to terms with called upon in 1990 to decorate one the situation, and the result gives onlookers mile of the Wall's eastern segment with their a glimpse of East German life. Daily 10am–6pm. work, creating what is now known as the East Side €10/4. www.asisi.de. Friedrichstr. 205.

Gallery. Mühlenstraße. S+U Warschauer Straße, S T: 0341.3555340. U Kochstraße. E3/E4 Ostbahnhof. G4

Asisi’s Wall Panorama

Berlin Wall Documentation Center

Holocaust Memorial

MUST SEE Walk along one of the few surviving

stretches of the Berlin Wall in an area of the city where its impact was particularly dramatic, then delve into its storied history at the documentation center. Documents and original radio broadcasts from both East and West chronicle one of Germany’s saddest historical periods. Open-air exhibition: 8am-10pm daily; documentation center: Tue–Sun 10am–6pm. Free. www.

MUST SEE Berlin’s tribute to the victims of the Holocaust is as big as a soccer field and consists of 2711 tombstone-like slabs of equal size and varying heights, placed on uneven ground to convey a sense of claustrophobia and disorientation. The underground information center provides a timeline of Jewish persecution. Accessible 24 hours a day. Free. www.holocaust-mahnmal.de.

Cora-Berliner Straße. T: 030.2639430.

U Brandenburger Tor. E3

Karl-Marx-Allee

© MADAME TUSSAUDS BERLIN

ADVERTORIAL

Madame Tussauds Berlin Set yourself up on a dream date at Madame Tussauds Berlin. Weather it’s George Clooney or Angelina Jolie you’re in love with or if you simply want to converse with great minds such as Albert Einstein and Barack Obama, this is the closest you’ll probably get to the real thing, and it's your chance to snap yourself a selfie with the stars – over 100 amazingly life-like wax figures and many interactive sets.One of the newest celebrities at Madame Tussauds is Germany’s most successful YouTuber Bibi, known for her YouTube channel BibisBeautyPalace. But rather than being displayed as another wax figure, Bibi appears as Madame Tussauds' first interactive hologram. Shoot your own video together with Bibi and send it directly to your smartphone to share with friends. Also, don’t miss out on your photoshoot opportunity with Heidi Klum and experience your personal fashion moment with this Supermodel. And do not miss the German singer Helene Fischer, who will arrive at the end of summer 2017!

Unter den Linden 74. www.madametussauds.com. S+U Brandenburger Tor.

Berlin’s best example of GDR-era Neorealist architecture is a 90m- (295ft-)wide boulevard built between 1950 and 1960 to provide housing for thousands of residents and to act as a backdrop for military parades. The street quickly became a source of national pride for East Germany, due to its residential tower blocks inspired by Moscow and by Stalin’s ideal style: nationalistic in form but socialist in content. The boulevard is an important architectural showcase. U Weberwiese, Strausberger Platz. F3/G3

Stasi Prison MUST SEE Between 1945 and 1989, more than 20,000 people suspected of opposing the East German political system were arrested by the Stasi (secret police) and brought to this custody building. In its first and darkest years, the prison’s cellars, known as “the submarine,” were used to inflict psychological torture on the inmates, while the relatively more humane cells are on the upper floors, next to a seemingly never-ending corridor lined with interrogation rooms. Tours in English on Wed, Sat, and Sun at 2:30pm in winter, daily at 11:30am and 2:30pm in summer. €6/3. en. stiftung-hsh.de. Genslerstr. 66. T: 030.98608230.

S Landsberger Allee, then Tram M5 to Freienwalder Str., then 10-minute walk.

Off Map

Topographie des Terrors MUST SEE On the site of the former headquarters of the SS and the Third Reich’s most important offices, this permanent exhibition recounts the tragic history of Nazi forced labor, focusing on the central institutions of the SS and Third Reich police and the crimes they committed throughout Europe. A segment of the Wall runs along the grounds. Daily 10am–8pm. Free. www.

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SIGHTSEEING topographie.de. Niederkirchnerstr. 8.

T: 030.2545090. U Kochstraße. E4

Tränenpalast (Palace of Tears) Until 1990, the departure hall of the Friedrichstraße station was also a border crossing for West Berliners on their way home after visiting relatives and friends in the East. The many painful farewells brought locals to rename the building the “palace of tears.” The permanent exhibition Border Experience: Everyday Life in Divided Germany recounts the effects of the border on German residents of the time. Tue–Fri 9am–7pm (Sat–Sun until 6pm).

Free. www.hdg.de. Reichstagufer 17.

T: 030.46777790. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

KIDS & FAMILIES Berlin Dungeon Much like the London Dungeon, the Berlin Dungeon provides a terrifying interactive journey through the city's dark past via a sometimesspooky, actor-led experience. Visitors are taken through attractions such as the old library of Berlin, a plague-infected street, a torture chamber, a secret court, and more. Not recommended for young children. Daily 10am–6pm (winter weekends until 5pm). €20.50/12.30(discount when booking online). Under-14s must be accompanied by adult.

Combined LEGOLAND, Madame Tussauds, and Sea Life tickets available. www.thedungeons.com.

Spandauer Str. 2.

S+U Hackescher Markt. F3

Berlin Zoo and Aquarium MUST SEE One of the city’s main attractions and the oldest zoo in Germany includes pavilions that provide ample indoor space, making the venue suitable for rainy days. The zoo boasts the largest number of species and total animal residents in the world. The aquarium, one of the largest in Europe, features large tanks with piranhas, sharks, and alligators. Daily 9am–6:30pm. Zoo or aquarium: €14.50/7.50, under-4s free. Combined ZooAquarium ticket: €20/10. www.aquarium-berlin.de, www.zoo-berlin.de Hardenbergplatz 8.

T: 030.254010.

S+U Zoologischer Garten. C4

Botanischer Garten This large park was designed in the Romantic English style, with hills, lakes, and pretty greenhouses. There is a palm house and a whole section dedicated to exotic plants, including orchids, cacti, and carnivorous plants. Open daily 9am–ca. one hour before sunset. Museum closes at 6pm. €6/3.

Currywurst Museum Learn about Berlin’s most famous street food at this small but entertaining museum. Delve into Currywurst history, discover the secrets of its yellow sauce in the "spice chamber," and watch movies starring the delicious sausage. Daily 10am–8pm. €11/7, under-6s free. www.currywurstmuseum.de.

Schützenstr. 70. T: 030.88718647. U Kochstraße. E4

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Domäne Dahlem City Farm A real farm in the Berlin suburbs, with a manor house from the 1600s, boasts farm grounds that are still in use, complete with all the usual barnyard animals. There’s also a small exhibition of ancient agricultural tools and a Saturday-morning farmers’ market. Wed–Mon 10am–6pm in summer. Farm: Free except during special events. Museum: €3/1.50. www.domaenedahlem.de. Königin-LuiseStr. 49. T: 030.6663000.

U Dahlem Dorf. Off Map

Merry Berries Summertime is berry time. From fresh currants and cranberries to sour gooseberries, it’s the perfect time to head to your local farmers’ market and pick up a variety of punnets to devour in the sun. The only thing better is to go directly to the fields and pick them off the vines yourself. At Berliner Beerengarten (www. berlinerbeerengarten.de), you can do just that at locations all over the city and the surrounding Brandenburg area. Though it's now too late for raspberries, you can still forage for strawberries in the first couple of weeks, while blueberries are at their peak all month long. The deal is always the same: The more you pick, the cheaper the price, and you only have to pay for what’s in your basket and not for the plump and delicious morsels you’ve popped into your mouth along the way.

Madame Tussauds Have your picture taken with Angela Merkel, Albert Einstein, One Direction, or a host of other famous names in entertainment and politics. And, yes, there's even a wax Adolf Hitler, depicted as a little man standing in despair in his bunker during his final days. Daily 10am–7pm (Aug until 8pm). €23.50/18.50, discounts if you book online.

Combined Berlin Dungeon, LEGOLAND, and Sea Life tickets available. www.madametussauds.com.

Unter den Linden 74. S+U Brandenburger Tor. E3

TOURS & GUIDED WALKS Berliner Unterwelten (Underground Tours) Since 1997, the Berlin Underworlds Association has been offering regular tours of underground structures and subterranean complexes that are otherwise inaccessible. Cold War nuclear shelters, Hitler’s underground fortress, escape routes to the West, and WWII bunkers are just some of the adventures on offer. From €10. www. berliner-unterwelten.de. Brunnenstr. 105.

T: 030.49910517.

Fat Tire Bike Tours Comfort comes first on Fat Tire Tours, whose company concept was created around its curvy bicycles with soft seats, individually adjusted handlebars, and, obviously, fat tires. Tour themes vary. The all-in-one city bike tour is particularly popular. Times vary seasonally. Call ahead in winter. From €25. www.fattirebiketours.com.

Panoramastr. 1a.T: 030.24047991.

Trabi World For a quintessential Berlin tour experience, hop

inside real Trabants, the iconic cars of the former GDR. Visitors drive their personal Trabis, while, via the car’s radio, the group leader provides historical and quirky facts. Three different tours available, lasting one or two hours. €30-50. www. trabi-world.de. Zimmerstr. 97. T: 030.30201030. orate one mile of the Wall's eastern segment with their work, creating what is now known as the East Side Gallery. Mühlenstraße. S+U Warschauer Straße, S Ostbahnhof. G4

POTSDAM Biosphäre Potsdam This tropical indoor garden features a greenhouse with more than 20,000 plants, including a palm grove and mangrove swamp, as well as animals such as iguanas, parrots, geckos, frogs, and butterflies. Daily Mon–Fri 9am–6pm, from 10am on weekends and holidays. €11.50/9.80. Under-3s free. www.biosphaere-potsdam.de. Georg-HalemannAllee 99. T: 0331.550740. Tram 96 from Potsdam Hauptbahnhof. Off Map

Filmpark Babelsberg In the early 1900s, the Babelsberg film studios produced some of the most important films of the silent era, including Metropolis, until the facilities were taken over by the Nazi regime to produce political propaganda. Today, the studios are still in use, but part of the complex has been turned into a theme park, with old sets, stuntmen, special effects, and children’s sections dedicated to popular TV characters. Daily 10am–6pm from April to October, closed Mon in May and on Mon and Tues in September, on 6 and 13 October. €21/14, under-4s free. www.filmpark-babelsberg.de.

Grossbeerenstr., Potsdam-Babelsberg.

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This image: Hans Hansen, untitled (Nikon lenses), 1984.

Above right: Annette Kelm, Helmholtz Sirene. Right: Balancing Wedge/Mondrian, 2015 by Annette Kelm.

Inset, below: Hans Hansen, untitled (Self-portrait), 2002.

What Things Have To Say Solveig Steinhardt has never felt as emotionally connected to a Starbucks cup as when she visited the new photography exhibitions at C/O Berlin.

Much has been said about the power of photography, and the C/O Berlin gallery (p. 42) provides proof of this with regular eye-opening exhibitions. As if that weren't reason enough to visit, the gallery is also situated inside the historic building that once housed the American library, a fine example of the post-war architectural reconstruction that impacted the whole area around the zoo. This month, the gallery presents two different, but connected, exhibitions on the importance of product photography, so be prepared to let simple objects talk to you.

One of the world's most important industrial photographers, Hans Hansen is known for his greatly reduced yet energetic view of things.

Over his 60-year career, the German photographer has captured details of industrial parts, silhouettes of flowers, and other objects with unprecedented accuracy

and minimalism, giving inanimate things lives of their own. One of his most impressive works is Disassembled Volkswagen Beetle, a picture of the neatly arranged 7000 pieces of a dismantled car, an image that would awaken model assembly desires even in the most Legoindifferent among us.

Hansen has been described as a dramaturge of light, and plays with his objects' form and illumination to isolate them from the background and allow their true personality to emerge. The exhibition Still Life: Photographs from 1957 to 2017 celebrates his career with a selection of his most significant works.

Hansen's studio photography has set an important example in the world of industrial

photography, paving the way for the development of commercial product imagery as we know it today. As the perfect complement to Hansen's work, Optical Illusions. Contemporary Still Life, just next door, examines trends in product photography through the work of four artists who have turned things like perfume bottles, shampoo, Starbucks cups, or cosmetics containers into a contemporary form of still life.

Their works lie at the intersection between commercial window display and artistic installation, sometimes deliberately deconstructing high-gloss photography to question the meaning of commercial aesthetics.

UNTITLED (NIKON LENSES), 1984, HILDMANN SIMON REMPEN & SCHMITZ, © HANS HANSEN; UNTITLED (SELF-PORTRAIT), 2002, © HANS HANSEN; HELMHOLTZ SIRENE, 2017 © ANNETTE KELM / KÖNIG GALERIE; BALANCING WEDGE / MONDRIAN, 2015 © ANNETTE KELM / KÖNIG GALERIE.

MUSEUMS & GALLERIES | THE GUIDE

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Bröhan Museum

Berlin’s collection of classical antiquities, housed inside a breathtaking Neoclassical building. Take in the mosaic floor of Hadrian’s villa, a wealth of Greek sculptures, and a number of Etruscan and Roman finds. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €10/5. www.smb.museum. Am Lustgarten. T: 030.266424242. S+U Friedrichstraße, S Hackescher Markt. E3

Starting in 1966, collector Karl Bröhan amassed hundreds of Art Nouveau and Art Deco objects and various paintings from the Berlin Secessionist movement. Browse through pieces of furniture, housewares, ceramics, and glassware from this fascinating artistic period. To 3 Oct: Kiss. From Rodin to Bob Dylan. Following the kiss in modern art. Open Tue–Sun 10am–6pm www.broehanmuseum.de. Schloßstr. 1a. T: 030.32690600.

U Sophie-Charlotte-Platz. A3

Alte Nationalgalerie

Brücke Museum

A splendorous collection of 19th-century art.

Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €12/6 with exhibition, €10/5 museum only. www.smb.museum. Bodestr. 1–3.

T: 030.266424242. S+U Friedrichstraße, S Hackescher Markt. E3

Founded in Dresden in 1905, the Die Brücke movement drew inspiration from primitive art and expressed extreme emotion and political opposition through lively, exaggerated color.

Features the paintings of such artists as Emil Nolde and Erich Heckel. To 3 Sep: The Artists of Die Brücke – Paintings, Illustrations, and Prints. An interchanging selection of prints and paintings, in celebration of the museum’s 50th anniversary. Wed–Mon 11am–5pm. €5/3. www.bruecke-museum.de.

Bussardsteig 9. T: 030.8312029.

U Oskar-Helene-Heim. Off Map

Bode Museum An extensive collection of Old Masters’ paintings, a section dedicated to ancient coins, and many works of Roman and Byzantine art adorn the museum’s impressive interior, built by Ernst von Ihne in 1904. To 5 Nov: Syria Antiqua – Coins and Monuments on Museum Island. Showcasing coins from ancient Syria and artefacts of its prowess.

Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat– Sun 10am–6pm. €12/6. www.smb.museum. Am Kupfergraben. T: 030.266424242.

U Friedrichstraße, S Hackescher Markt. E3

INCL. SPECIAL

DDR Museum Learn about daily life in the former East Germany at this hands-on museum. Closets filled with GDR (DDR in German) fashion and a Trabant (the GDR car) are just some of the items on display, while photographs illustrate Communist habits, such

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open daily:

Jan - Jun 12 p.m. - 8 p.m.

Jul - Aug 10 a.m. - 8 p.m.

Sep - Dec 12 p.m. - 8 p.m.

(24th December closed)

Last entrance: 7 p.m.

Potsdamer Platz entrance: Leipziger Platz 7 Hômmage á S. Dalí by DaVial

Altes Museum

Infos: 0700 - 325 423 75**| Tickets: www.DaliBerlin.de (**0,14€/ Min. from a landline, mobile communications vary, max 0,42€/ Min.)

With over 450 exhibits from private collections this permanent exhibition provides general insight into Dalí’s virtuous mastery in almost all art techniques in Berlin’s lively city centre.

www.daliberlin.de

ERICH SALOMON, FAIRFAX HUNT CLUB, VIRGINIA.

UNTITLED (NIKON LENSES), 1984, HILDMANN SIMON REMPEN & SCHMITZ, © HANS HANSEN; UNTITLED (SELF-PORTRAIT), 2002, © HANS HANSEN; HELMHOLTZ SIRENE, 2017 © ANNETTE KELM / KÖNIG GALERIE; BALANCING WEDGE / MONDRIAN, 2015 © ANNETTE KELM / KÖNIG GALERIE.

MUSEUMS

The Essential Travel Item What's the most important item you pack before leaving for a long journey? A camera, of course! Our natural need to share our travel experiences with others turns us all into photographers every time we leave our hometown. The exhibition Faraway Focus – Photographers Go Traveling (1880–2015) at the Berlinische Galerie (p. 42) traces the history of travel photography, from the exotic images of the late 1800s and the politically charged photos of the mid-20th century to the age of Instagram. Take a close look at 180 photographs by 17 photographers, reflecting 150 years of art, and get inspired for your next trip.

From the Middle Ages to Metropolis Germany from all Ages Permanent Exhibition | Daily 10 am–6 pm ww.dhm.de

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MUSEUMS & GALLERIES as collectively potty-training babies or going on nudist holidays. Mon–Sun 10am–8pm, Sat until 10pm. €7/4. www.ddr-museum.de. KarlLiebknecht-Str. 1. T: 030.847123731.

S Hackescher Markt, U Alexanderplatz. E3

1535-2017. A re-examination of the history of the museum through a postcolonial lens. Sun–Mon, Wed–Fri 2–6pm, Thu 2–8pm, Sat 2–7pm. €6/4. www.schwulesmuseum.de. Lützowstr. 73.

T: 030.69599050. U Nollendorfplatz. D4

Deutsches Historisches Museum

Jewish Museum

history from the Roman occupation of the Germanic areas to the present day. To 31 Oct: The Invention of Press Photography. Following the history of photography, told through the Ullstein press photo collection and the Berliner Illustrierte Zeitung.

Daily 10am–6pm. €8/4 (under-18s free). www.dhm. de. Unter den Linden 2. T: 030.203040. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

Deutsches Technikmuseum MUST SEE At the museum for all things

technology, the old locomotives and aviation rooms are the most popular attractions, while a Rosinenbomber, a 1948 Berlin Airlift aircraft, is mounted on the museum’s roof. A hands-on section allows kids to conduct experiments. Mon– Fri 9am–5:30pm, Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €8/4. www. sdtb.de. Trebbiner Str. 9. T: 030.902540.

U Möckernbrücke, U Gleisdreieck. E4

The Gay Museum (Schwules Museum)

THE WORLD OF PHOTOGRAPHY AT AMERIKA HAUS

One of the world’s largest and most significant institutions for archiving, researching, and communicating the history and culture of LGBTQ communities. Changing exhibitions take diverse approaches to lesbian, gay, transgender, bisexual, and queer biographies and concepts in history, art, and culture. To 28 Aug: Read Simone de Beauvoir!

A question on the discussion of post-gender equality and women’s empowerment. To 9 Oct: Winckelmann – The Divine Gender. Celebrating the influential and mysterious art historian Johann J. Winckelmann’s 300th birthday. To 16 Oct: Odarodle - An Imaginary their_story of naturepeoples,

MUST SEE Daniel Libeskind’s architectural jewel, shaped as a deconstructed Star of David, explores millennia of German Jewish history, including the alternating glories and persecutions of the community. Daily 10am–8pm, Mon until 10pm. €8/3. www.jmberlin.de. Lindenstr. 9-14.

T: 030.25993300. U Hallesches Tor, U Kochstraße. E4

Märkisches Museum Documents, photos, books, and weapons walk visitors through 750 years of Berlin history in a neoGothic setting. To 14 Jan: Berlin 1937. In the Shadow of Tomorrow. Examining the false sense of normalcy Berlin felt in 1937, right before the Nazi seizure of power. Tue–Sun 10am–6pm. €5/3 (under-18s free; free entry first Wed of month). www.stadtmuseum. de. Am Köllnischen Park 5. T: 030.24002162.

U Märkisches Museum. F3

Martin-Gropius-Bau MUST SEE One of the city’s best art and photography exhibition spaces and an important example of early 20th-century architecture, the imposing building combines Italian Renaissance elements with local features, such as mosaics of allegorical figures. To 22 Oct: Lucian Freud: Closer.

Featuring 50 etchings by one of Britain's most renowned artists. To 29 Oct: Regina Schmeken.

Bloody Soil. Scenes of NSU Crimes. Photographs of crime scenes, commemorating the victims of the hate crimes. To 28 Aug: Franz Kafka. The Entire Trial.

On show is the entire handwritten manuscript of The Trial. To 5 Nov: The Luther Effect. Protestantism – 500 Years in the World. Honoring the Reformation’s

Visions Alive Hardenbergstr. 22–24 . 10623 Berlin Daily 11:00–20:00 . www.co-berlin.org

After the great success of the multimedia exhibitions Van Gogh Alive (2015) and Hieronymous Bosch: Vision Alive (2016), the Alte Münze will be presenting a third show, From Monet to Kandinsky, bringing to life paintings by Monet, Degas, Gaugin, Klee, and many more through light designs, HD screenings, and music. www.visions-alive.com

COURTESY OF VISIONS ALIVE

MUST SEE Learn about the milestones in German

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500th anniversary, telling the story of its legacy worldwide. Wed–Mon 10am–7pm. Prices vary by exhibition. www.gropiusbau.de. Niederkirchnerstr.

7. T: 030.254860. U Kochstraße. E4

The world‘s first museum

The internationally popular touring exhibition Body Worlds showcased anatomist Gunther von Hagens’ plastination process, which preserves body parts and reveals their inner structures. The permanent Berlin exhibition shows 200 body parts amd 20 whole-body preparations, focusing on specific organs and diseases. Daily 10am–7pm. www. memu.berlin. Panoramaplatz 1.

S+U Alexanderplatz. F3

Museum Berggruen MUST SEE A can’t-miss for Picassophiles. The Spanish painter is the star of this Charlottenburg museum, which boasts dozens of rooms filled with his paintings. The collection encompasses 75 years of his life and all of his creative phases. Expanded in 2013, the museum also features many famous works by Matisse, Klee, Giacometti, Van Gogh, Cézanne, and many more. To 31 Mar: Mark Chagall: The Modernity of Decorativeness. A one room show of Chagall's innovation in modern art, with photographs by Ulrike Kolb. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm. €10/5. www.smb.museum. Schloßstr. 1.

T: 030.266424242. U Sophie-Charlotte-Platz. A3

Museum of Photography Diverse and comprehesive exhibitions curated from the Berlin Art Library’s vast photographic collection are housed in a Neoclassical 1909 building built for the Prussian army’s officer corps, whose lower two floors are occupied by the Helmut Newton Foundation. From 18 Aug: Working on History. Contemporary Chinese Photography and the Cultural Revolution. Exploring the lasting consequences of the Cultural Revolution. To 19 Nov: Mario Testino. Undressed / Helmut Newton. Unseen / Jean Pigozzi. Pool Party.

Featuring Testino's fashion photos, Pigozzi's snapshot-like images of swimming pool guests, and a selection of Newton's own work. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 11am–6pm. €10/5. www.smb.museum. Jebensstr. 2.

T: 030.266424242. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C3–C4

Durchführung: Institut für Plastination e.K., Heidelberg

Menschen Museum

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Alexanderplatz Directly at the TV Tower

www.MeMu.berlin

For Explorers!

Museum für Naturkunde Home to the world’s largest dinosaur skeleton, the natural history museum also features extensive collections of shells, insects, and prize-winning mounted animal dioramas. To 5 Nov: Sielmann!

A focus on the lynx, wisent, and beaver, all native wildlife, to celebrate the legendary nature broadcaster Heinz Sielmann's would-be 100th birthday. Tue–Fri 9:30–6pm, Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €5/3. www.naturkundemuseum-berlin. Invalidenstr.

43. T: 030.20938591. U Naturkundemuseum. E2

Neues Museum MUST SEE The 3300-year-old bust of Queen Nefertiti is the museum’s top attraction. Examine a world-famous Egyptian collection that includes many important papyruses, while hundreds of artifacts relate early human history. Badly damaged during WWII and left abandoned until the 1980s, the museum reopened in 2009. To 3 Dec: China and Egypt. Cradles of the World. A parallel exploration of two cultures and their innovations that spanned millennia. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €12/6. www.neues-museum. de. Bodestr. 1-3. T: 030.266424242. S+U Friedrichstraße, S Hackescher Markt. E3/F3

Trebbiner Str. 9, 10963 Berlin www.sdtb.de /deutschestechnikmuseum

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Pergamon Museum One of Berlin’s main attractions, the Pergamon houses the outcome of Germany’s early-20thcentury archeology excavations. The imposing Ishtar Gate of Babylon with its glazed blue bricks is a feast for the eyes, as are the Market Gate from Myletus, the reconstructed interiors of an Assyrian palace, and many other testimonies to the ancient world. Altar room closed for restoration through 2019. To 15 Oct: Religious Wonder - Biblical Traditions in the Islamic World. Manuscripts from late Antiquity to Modernity, originating from the Middle East. www.smb.museum. Bodestr. 1-3.

T: 030.266424242. S Hackescher Markt. E3

The German Spy Museum Delve into the world of espionage with two floors of interactive exhibits covering some 3500 years of espionage history. Highlights include presentations on James Bond and other famous fictitious spies and a laser maze that tests your agility to break into – or out of – compromising locations. €12/8. Daily 10am-8pm. www.deutschesspionagemuseum.de. Leipziger Platz 9.

S+U Potsdamer Platz E3

Stasi Museum

Sep: Faraway Focus – Photographers Go Travelling (1880-2015). Photography as a way to explore the other and unfamiliar around the world. To 9 Oct: Christine Streuli – Works by the Fred-Theieler-Prize 2017 recipient. To 21 Aug: John Bock. Bock’s work celebrates the absurdity in the world. Wed–Mon 10am–6pm. €8/5 (€10/7 during exhibitions). www. berlinischegalerie.de. Alte Jakobstr. 124-128.

T: 030.78902600. U Hallesches Tor. E4

C/O Berlin

international prize. To 3 Oct: Roberto Burle Marx: Brazilian Modernist. A comprehensive exploration of Burle Marx's oeuvre, spanning landscape architecture, painting, sculpture, theater design, textiles, and jewelry. Daily 10am–8pm. €4/3. www. deutsche-bank-kunsthalle.de. Unter den Linden 13/15. T: 030.2020930.

S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

Gemäldegalerie – Old Masters Painting Gallery

MUST SEE One of the finest collections of MUST SEE Contemporary art and photography European art from the 13th to the 18th centuries. has finally reopened in the Amerika Haus, which Lots of Dutch and Flemish painters, housed the American library during the including Rembrandt and Vermeer, and Cold War era. To 10 Sep: Josef Koudelka. a vast collection of Italian Renaissance Invasion / Exiles / Wall. To 10 Sep: Hans art, including Botticelli, Titian, and Hansen. Still Life. Photographs from Canaletto. From 17 May: In a New 1957 to 2017. An exploration of the Berlin has more than 440 Light: Works in the Central Hall. Over German photographer’s work, both contemporary art 70 rarely-seen works on show in the sensual and technical in nature. To galleries, which makes usually-vacant central hall. Tue–Fri 10 Sep: Optical Illusions . it the number one 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun gallery city in all of Contemporary Still Life. A Europe.

10am–6pm. €10/5. www.smb.museum. reassessment and update to the Matthäikirchplatz 50. T: 030.266424242. genre. Daily 11am–8pm. €10/5. www.

S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3 co-berlin.org Hardenbergstr. 22–24.

T: 030.28444160. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C4

Georg-Kolbe-Museum

The GDR’s Ministry of State Security, the Stasi, has been described as one of the most repressive intelligence and secret police agencies to ever have existed. Explore the agency’s headquarters and learn about their spying techniques, inc. cameras hidden in watering cans or inside fake trees. Open Mon–Fri 10am–6pm, Sat & Sun noon–6pm. €5/4. www.stasimuseum.de. Ruschestr.

103. T: 030.5536854. U Magdalenenstraße. Off Map

The permanent exhibit features more than 400 works, most from private collections, by the Surrealist painter, with a focus on drawing, illustration, and film. Dalí fans explore new perspectives of the artist’s life and work. Daily noon–8pm (10am–8pm in summer). €12.50. www. daliberlin.de. Leipziger Platz 7. Toll number: 0700.3254237546. U Potsdamer Platz. D3

An idyllic garden houses the former studio of German Secessionist artist Georg Kolbe, who used the human body as an expression of the human spirit, challenging the role of sculpture as a representation of mythological or heroic symbolism. The museum displays a wide selection of works and hosts frequent exhibitions. Tue–Sun 10am–6pm. €5/3. www.georg-kolbe-museum.de.

Sensburger Allee 25. T: 030.3042144.

S Heerstraße. Off Map

ART GALLERIES

Deutsche Bank KunstHalle

Hamburger Bahnhof

Berlinische Galerie A modern art collection of 5000+ works of German and Eastern European paintings. To 11

Dalí – The Exhibition

With an emphasis on paper and photography, the Deutsche Bank’s art collection is a stroll along the timeline of modern art. Every year, the bank pays tribute to young artists by organizing an

Moving Is In Every Direction Until 17 November, the Hamburger Bahnhof contemporary art museum (this page) will be tracing the history of installation art through video and sound shows scattered throughout the museum, giving visitors a sense of art as it happens.

The permanent collection of this former railway station includes a selection of works from the Friedrich Christian Flick Collection, and the many temporary exhibitions focus on painting

BUNNY ROGERSMANDY’S PIANO SOLO IN COLUMBINECAFETERIA, 2016ANIMATED FILMLAVENDER PIANO BENCH (INSIDE - TWO PAIRS OFMANDY SOCKS), 2016 INSTALLATIONCOURTESY THE ARTIST AND SOCIÉTÉ© NATIONALGALERIE IM HAMBURGER BAHNHOF, SMB / JAN WINDSZUS

MUSEUMS & GALLERIES

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A R C H I T E C T U R E S

Since 1946, this Zehlendorf villa has organized contemporary art exhibitions that cover a wide spectrum of media and styles. Each show is complemented by events – lectures, concerts, and performances – for children and adults. The multi-sensory sculpture garden is one of the city’s finest and worth a visit on its own. For an unusual yoga class, try Yoga Amidst the Art, offered Wed 9-10:30am. €7/5. www.hausamwaldsee.de.

Argentinische Allee 30. T: 030.8018935.

U Krumme Lanke. Off Map

Helmut Newton Foundation Before dying in a car accident on Sunset Boulevard in 2004, the art photographer donated all of his work to his hometown of Berlin. Best known for his nude photography of American stars, Newton now has an entire museum dedicated to his oeuvre.

Tue–Sun 10am–6pm, Thu until 8pm. €10/5. www.helmutnewton.com. Jebensstr. 2.

T: 030.31864856.

S+U Zoologischer Garten. C3

Liebermann Villa on Lake Wannsee CL904 MUST SEE The former summer residence of artist Max Liebermann, co-founder and head of the German Secessionist movement. Before being dismissed and banned by the Nazis in 1933, Liebermann painted around 200 works in this villa, some of which are on display in his studio on the upper floor. €3 plus museum entry. Wed–Mon 10am–6pm (11am–5pm in winter). €7/4 (€6/4 in summer). www.liebermann-villa.de. Colomierstr. 3.

T: 030.80585900.

S Wannsee. Off Map

HAMBURGER BAHNHOF –

8. 4. – 17. 9.

MUSEUM FÜR GEGENWART – BERLIN

Staatliche Museen zu Berlin, Invalidenstraße 50 – 51, 10557 Berlin www.rudolfbellinginberlin.de, www.smb.museum/hbf Rudolf Belling, Head in Brass, 1925 Staatliche Museen zu Berlin, Nationalgalerie | © VG Bild-Kunst, Bonn 2017 | Photo: Johann Clausen

2017

A world of exhibitions

me Collectors Room Thomas Olbricht created this space to bring together other international art collectors and to organize exhibitions, workshops, and concerts. The upper floor houses his “cabinet of curiosities.” To 27 Aug: Sigmar Polke – The Editions. Highlighting 200 works from the notable contemporary photographer and painter. Tue–Sun noon–6pm. €7/4. www.meberlin.com. Auguststr. 68.

T: 030.86008510.

S Oranienburger Straße. E2

Commercial Galleries mianki.Gallery, to 2 Sep: Various artists, Repetition. Kalckreuthstr. 15. www.mianki.com.

Galerie Albrecht, to 2 Sep: Michael Kenna: Abruzzo and Confessionali. Charlottenstr. 78. www. galeriesusannealbrecht.de. JRGallery, to 1 Sep: El Bocho, Nina Maron, Astrid Köhler, and others: Group Exhibition. Goethestr. 81. www.jrgallery.de.

Janinebeangallery, to 26 Aug: Grigori Dor: Falling Empire. Torstr. 154. www.janinebeangallery.com.

KaysertTradeGalleries - VietnamArt, to 31 Aug: Le Thanh Thu: "All we are, we are in communication" (Karl Jaspers). Gormannstr. 14. www.kaysertradegalleries.com.

©ISTOCK

BUNNY ROGERSMANDY’S PIANO SOLO IN COLUMBINECAFETERIA, 2016ANIMATED FILMLAVENDER PIANO BENCH (INSIDE - TWO PAIRS OFMANDY SOCKS), 2016 INSTALLATIONCOURTESY THE ARTIST AND SOCIÉTÉ© NATIONALGALERIE IM HAMBURGER BAHNHOF, SMB / JAN WINDSZUS

and sculpture from the past 50 years, as well as videos, music, and design. To 3 Sep: Adrian Piper. The Probable Trust Registry: The Rules of the Game #1-3. An intimately interactive installation of promises and principles. To 17 Sep: moving is in every direction. Environments – Installations – Narrative Spaces. To 17 Sep: Rudolf Belling. Sculptures and Architectures. Highlighting the oeuvre of the classical modernism sculptor. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €14/7. www. smb.museumInvalidenstr. 50-51. T: 030.266424242.

U Naturkundemuseum, S Hauptbahnhof. D2

®

Berlin wheretraveler.com

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DINING | THE GUIDE

Plenty Of Fish Seafood lovers, look no further: Hilda Hoy knows the best restaurants in the city for a great plate of fish.

Despite the city’s landlocked location several hundred kilometers from the sea, Berliners nonetheless have a big thing for fish. Standing ready to sate all seafood cravings is a wide range of local restaurants, ranging from unbridled luxury to hole-in-the-wall. When it comes to the former, everyone will agree that one place stands for the fanciest seafood money can buy in this town: Fischers Fritz (Charlottenstr.

49, www.fischersfritz-berlin.de). With two Michelin stars and an opulent ambience, this is a special-occasion place where big spenders can feast on the likes of Breton lobsters served from a rare silver press, langoustine carpaccio, and wild sea bass baked whole in a salt crust.

For high-end seafood with a somewhat less dramatic price tag, make a booking at Pauly Saal (Auguststr. 11–13, www.paulysaal.com), also Michelin-starred but with a hipper, more contemporary style. Chef Arne Anker grew up in fish-loving northern Germany, and lets those culinary roots come out to play in his

restaurant’s fish-focused menu. Local, seasonal ingredients are his greatest inspiration, which means humbler fish like catfish and mackerel get his star treatment alongside prized Russian caviar and imported salmon.

For a very different but no less memorable fish experience, head to the infamous Balikçi Ergun, a charming Turkish fishmongerturned-restaurant tucked below the S-Bahn tracks in Moabit. The concept is simple: Whatever’s fresh and in season is grilled or fried before landing on your plate with lemon wedges, crusty bread, and fresh, herby salads for the table to share. Make sure to try some Turkish-style fried anchovies and a whole, grilled Dorade (seabream). Thank-you notes from years of

happy customers cover the walls and even dangle from the ceiling.

For fish the classic German way, head to the southern tip of Treptower Park and climb aboard Klipper (Bulgarische Straße, www.klipper-berlin.de), a 19th-century sailboat transformed into a homey floating restaurant. Take a seat by the gently lapping water of the Spree River and feast on local favorites such as herring tartare served with horseradish and pumpernickel, cured salmon in mustard-dill sauce, and rainbow trout smoked right there on the dock. If the whole thing leaves you in a nautical mood, Klipper even offers chartered tours of the river in their own fleet of boats. Ship ahoy!

PAULY SAAL: PHOTO BY JULE MÜLLER; FRIED ANCHOVIES: © ISTOCK; FISCHERS FRITZ: COURTESY OF FISCHERS FRITZ; PAULY SAAL: COURTESY OF PAULY SAAL.

Clockwise from left: the interior of Pauly Saal; fried anchovies; lobster press at Fischers Fritz.

Inset, below: Michelin-starredseafood at Pauly Saal.

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DINING KEY Alc (à la carte): Prices are per person for three courses (excl. drinks) €: under €15. €€: €15–€40. €€€: €40–€80. €€€€: over €80. Restaurants listed in Fine Dining have at least one Michelin star. Letter/ number codes correspond to map at back of book.

Recommended by Die Goldenen Schlüssel Deutschland e.V./U.I.C.H. Les Clefs d’Or.

FINE DINING For a complete list of Berlin's Michelin-starred restaurants, visit wheretraveler.com/berlin.

Facil Situated in a glass atrium of The Mandala Hotel and ringed by the courtyard’s trees, Facil has mastered understated elegance in both its décor and cuisine. Double-Michelin-starred chef Michael Kempf is particularly masterful with seafood when creating his fine menus. €€€€. Mon–Fri L&D. www.facil.de. Potsdamer Str. 3.

T: 030.590051234. S Potsdamer Platz. D3

Horváth Austria-born chef Sebastian Frank built a reputation – and earned a Michelin star – with his highly creative, oftentimes minimalist use of seasonal ingredients, from sunchokes to candied parsley root to spruce needles. Wooden interior and lovely outdoor patio. €€€. Wed–Sun D. www.restaurant-horvath.de. Paul-Lincke-Ufer 44a.

T: 030.61289992. U Kottbusser Tor. F4

Hugos

FOUR-COURSE LOBSTER DINNER MONDAY TO SATURDAY, 01. TO 31.08.2017 | FROM 06.00 PM Lobster ceviche with apricot and vinegar sorbet, chanterelle mushrooms and onion pakora Lobster bisque Lobster thermidor with summer truffle pasta and herb salad ‘Frozé’ - frozen rosé with strawberries, violet brittle and vanilla crumble EUR 69.00 per person, drinks are not included Reservation necessary RESTAURANT DUKE @ ELLINGTON HOTEL BERLIN +49 (0)30 68 315-4000 | CONTACT@DUKE-RESTAURANT.COM | NÜRNBERGER STRASSE 50-55 | 10789 BERLIN | GERMANY

WWW.DUKE-RESTAURANT.COM / HIGHLIGHTS & SPECIALS

On the 14th floor of the InterContinental Hotel, Hugos offers panoramic views of the city along with Michelin-starred French-German cuisine, with a well-earned reputation as one of Berlin's go-to gourmet destinations. €€€€. Tue–Sat D. www. hugos-restaurant.de. Budapesterstr. 2.

T: 030.26021263. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C4

Lorenz Adlon Esszimmer The Hotel Adlon restaurant boasts two Michelin stars and a well-earned spot in the upper echelon of Berlin’s finest restaurants. No detail is spared in the creation of an unforgettable dining experience. €€€€. Tue–Sat D. www.lorenzadlonesszimmer.de. Unter den Linden 77. T: 030.2661196.

S+U Brandenburger Tor. E3

Reinstoff Chef Daniel Achilles didn’t earn two Michelin stars by playing it safe. The two nightly dinner menus at Reinstoff – one focused on regional tastes, the other incorporating influences from farther afield – are successful experiments in exciting, avantgarde cuisine. €€€€. Tue–Sat D. www.reinstoff.eu.

Schlegelstr. 26c. T: 030.30881214.

U Naturkundemuseum, S Nordbahnhof. E2

CHARLOTTENBURG– WILMERSDORF COURTESY OF PAULY SAAL.

Café Wintergarten im Literaturhaus German/Austrian. Classic elegance permeates the high-ceilinged rooms of this café, reminiscent of turn-of-the-century literary salons. Snag a table in the greenhouse-like vestibule, or settle down by one of the grand windows to enjoy breakfast, bistro-style meals, or a glass of wine. €. Daily B, L, D. www.literaturhaus-berlin.de. Fasanenstr. 23.

T: 030.8825414. U Uhlandstraße. C4

PO TS D AM E R S TR AS S E 58 · 10 785 BERLIN 8 th F L O O R · TU E – S AT S TAR TI NG AT 6 PM RESERVATIONS: +49 30 89064222 · GOLVET.DE

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DINING Duke Restaurant

Servus Bavaria!

Delicious german food and drinks, at Maximilians – the place to be.

French. The Ellington Hotel’s restaurant is all about

French haute cuisine with modern, creative twists.

Both the à la carte options and the menu of monthly specials illustrate the restaurant’s dedication to top-quality meat, seafood, and regional produce. €€€. Mon–Sat L&D. www.duke-restaurant.com.

Nürnberger Str. 50-55. T: 030.683154000.

U Augsburger Straße. C4

Paris Bar French. Many celebrities – including

Madonna, Sophia Loren, and Robert De Niro – have patronized this West Berlin institution over the years. The bistro-style menu includes French classics like oysters and steak-frites, though the legend alone is enough to draw guests. €€€.

Daily L&D. www.parisbar.net. Kantstr. 152.

T: 030.3138052. S Savignyplatz. C4

FRIEDRICHSHAIN Transit Asian Fusion. The long menu of tapas-style Thai and Indonesian dishes, each just a few euros, allows diners to cobble together a meal encompassing a wide range of tastes and ingredients. Other location in Rosenthaler Str. 68. €–€€. Daily L&D. www.transit-restaurants. com. Sonntagstr. 28. T: 030.26948415. S Ostkreuz. Off Map

Friedrichstr. 185–190 U-Bahnhof Stadtmitte www.maximiliansberlin.de

KREUZBERG Hasir Turkish. The little Turkish grill house rumored to be the birthplace of the döner kebab in the 1970s has since expanded to six locations around the city.

The original restaurant, near Kottbusser Tor, is a very popular spot for trying the full spectrum of what Turkish cuisine has to offer – far beyond the kebab. €€. Daily L&D. www.hasir.de. Adalbertstr.

10. T: 030.6142373.

U Kottbusser Tor. F4

Kimchi Princess Korean. “Let them eat kimchi,” implores the website

FINE DINING AT IT’S BEST TRADITION IN PROGRESS

for this hip, popular Korean restaurant. The house specialty is the meaty tabletop barbecue to be split between more diners, which comes with all the traditional side dishes including, of course, kimchi. €€. Daily D. www.kimchiprincess.com. Skalitzer Str. 36. T: 0163.4580203.

U Görlitzer Bahnhof. F4

Spindler & Klatt

Alt-Moabit 141, 10557 Berlin

(you will find us near Ministry of the Interior, chancellery and Berlin central station)

reservation +49 (0)30-394 20 81 +49 (0)177-394 20 80 Open mon–sat from 6 pm / closed on Sundays / lunchtime mon–fri 12 am–3 pm www.paris-moskau.de · restaurant@paris-moskau.de

Asian-European fusion. Restaurant, lounge, and club in one, Spindler & Klatt makes full use of its prime river location. In the summer, the waterside terrace is a memorable spot to enjoy the menu of Pan-Asian dishes, from fine sushi to sizzling tuna steaks and dry-aged Irish steaks hot off the grill. On Fridays and Saturdays, the spot transforms into a club from 23pm. €€€. Daily D. www.spindlerklatt. com. Köpenicker Str. 16–17. T: 030 319881860.

U Schlesisches Tor. G4

Volt German. The name of this restaurant and the edgy, post-industrial interior remind diners that the space was once an electricity station. Chef Matthias Gleiss has edge, too – he was named Newcomer of the Year in 2011 by a jury of top Berlin chefs. Refined yet exciting German food is his calling card. €€€. Mon– Sat D. www.restaurant-volt.de. Paul-Lincke-Ufer 21.

T: 030.61074033.

U Kottbusser Tor. G4

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MITTE AIGNER am Gendarmenmarkt Austrian/German. The Mitte restaurant boasts an elegant interior and a view on stately Gendarmenmarkt. Styled after Vienna's famed coffeehouses, AIGNER adds a local touch with dishes like Brandenburg roast duck. €€€. Daily L&D. www. aigner-gendarmenmarkt.de. Französischestr. 25 T: 030.203751850. U Französische Straße. E3

Borchardt German/French. A favorite hobnobbing spot

of the rich and famous, Borchardt is popular for both its food (especially the schnitzel) as well as the opportunity to see and be seen. €€. Daily L&D. www.borchardt-restaurant.de. Französische Str. 47.

T: 030.81886262. U Französische Straße. E3

The Grand German. The sophisticated supper club, with origins reaching back to 1842, boasts an American grill that makes its international array of steaks among the best in town. The upstairs lounge attracts a decadent late-night scene. €€€. Mon–Fri L, Daily D. www.thegrand-berlin.com. Hirtenstraße 4. T: 030.278909555.

Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz. F2

AUTHENTIC NORTH INDIAN CUISINE

India Club Indian. Just steps away from the Brandenburg Gate is this luxurious hideaway for high-end North Indian cuisine, boasting an ambience that is both elegant and colorful. A renowned chef flown in from New Delhi lends his masterful touch to the menu of extravagantly spiced specialties. €€€.

Daily D. www.india-club-berlin.com. Behrenstr. 72.

T: 030.20628610. S+U Brandenburger Tor. E3

Käfer Dachgarten-Restaurant of the German Bundestag German. The Reichstag is for more than sightseeing.

Thanks to the culinary team behind Käfer, it’s also a fine dining destination. On the roof of the famed landmark, Käfer boasts splendid views and refined, modern German cuisine. Advance reservations required. Due to security precautions, each guest must provide official photo I.D. upon entry. €€€.

Daily B, L, D. www.feinkost-kaefer.de. Platz der Republik 1. T: 030 2262990. U Bundestag, S Brandenburger Tor. D3/E3.

BEHRENSTRASSE 72 | 10117 BERLIN OPEN DAILY: 18.00 – 23.00 BOOK YOUR TABLE: +49 30 2062 8610 WWW.INDIA-CLUB-BERLIN.COM

Berlin’s most delicious restaurants

Katz Orange German/European. Housed in a former brewery, the warm, stylish interior decoration of this restaurant is met with a menu of top-quality, updated comfort foods. The kitchen’s pride and joy is the “Slow Food” section of the menu, starring 12-hour, sous vide roasted pork neck, ribs, or lamb shoulder. €€. Daily D, closed Sun. www.katzorange.com. Bergstr. 22.

T: 030.983208430. U Rosenthaler Platz. E2

German. Maximilians recreates the feel of a cozy Bavarian beer hall with hearty food and plentiful beer. Meaty specialties include pork knuckle served with dumplings and sauerkraut, freshly baked pretzels, and the tempting “Munich sausage parade.” From the four kinds of Paulaner beer on tap to the warm hospitality, Maximilians goes to great lengths to transport a piece of Bavaria to the heart of Mitte. €–€€. Daily L&D. www. maximiliansrestaurant.de. Friedrichstr. 185–190.

T: 030.20450559. U Stadtmitte. E3

Nante Eck German. With delightful dishes from Berlin’s

traditional cuisine and a menu that changes every month, the Nante Eck restaurant offers a

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DINING refined cuisine made with fresh local ingredients.

Specialties include extra-big currywurst and Flammkuchen pies. Very long beer menu. €. Daily L&D. www.nante-eck.de. Unter den Linden 35.

T: 030.22487257. U Französische Straße. F2

PRENZLAUER BERG Lucky Leek Vegetarian. It’s not luck that makes Lucky Leek so good, but rather a dedication to creating top-notch gourmet cuisine that is also 100-percent vegan and incorporates international tastes. The small but comprehensive menu changes regularly. €€. Wed– Sun D. www.lucky-leek.de. U Senefelderplatz. F2

TIERGARTEN

From India With Love There’s no shortage of Indian restaurants in this city, but as many a disappointed curry lover will attest, quality standards have rarely been set particularly high. That’s what makes India Club a game changer on the city’s culinary scene. This ambitious new venture just steps away from the Brandenburg Gate aims to introduce Berliners to the world of high-end North Indian cuisine, at the hands of a renowned chef flown in from New Delhi, Manish Bahukhandi. From the richly spiced curries to the meat specialties roasted in the clay tandoor oven to the homemade chutneys, careful attention to detail, exacting quality standards, and a lush array of spices are what sets his dishes apart. The free-range meat is sourced from a regional organic farm, and vegetarians will also find plenty of tempting options on the menu.

Behrenstr. 72. T: 030 20628610. www.india-club-berlin.com

Golvet Modern European. With its spacious terrace, classy lounge, and sweeping cityscape views, Golvet is much more than a restaurant – it's also a prime spot for taking in the sunset with an aperitif in hand.

The ambiance of sleek Nordic-inspired style pairs perfectly with the menu of high-end European fusion dishes €€. Tues–Sat D. www.golvet.de. Potsdamer Str. 58, 8th floor. T: 030.89064222. S Tiergarten. D4

Café Einstein Stammhaus Austrian. A Viennese-style coffee house housed in an 1878 villa – a lovely spot for a meal or to while away the afternoon with coffee and a book.

Recommended: a slice of the café's famous apple strudel paired with a Wiener Melange coffee. €€.

Daily B, L, D. www.cafeeinstein.com. Kurfürstenstr.

58. T: 030.26391918. U Nollendorfplatz. D4

Monday to Friday: 12.00 – 23.00 CET Saturday and Sunday: 18.00 – 23.00 CET Make your Reservation: Tel. 030 / 278 909 95 55 www.the-grand-berlin.com

INDIA CLUB: COURTESY OF INDIA CLUB.

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THE GUIDE | ENTERTAINMENT

ROCIO MOLINA - CAIDA DEL CIELO ©DJFRAT_1; ELBAILE©NICOLASROUX; KALAKUTA REPUBLIK: DOUNE PHOTO; MCC JORDAN JAMES BRIDGE BY HUGO GLENDINNING;

Clockwise from left: Rocio Molina's Caida del cielo; El Baile by Alan Pauls; Coulibaly's Kalakuta Republik. Inset, below: Jordan James, Bridge.

Dancing Around Berlin Rachel Stern finds a fascinating mix of modern dance at one of Berlin’s most important festivals.

Berlin has long played a rebellious role in the arts, and modern dance is no exception. Part of the city’s colorful fabric since the early 20th century, contemporary choreography was born as a product of the Bauhaus movement and Daoism in search of alternative forms of expression. Now every summer at various theaters around the city, the festival Tanz im August showcases the world’s most creative and groundbreaking works of modern dance, centered on piercing personal and political themes.

The festival kicks off on 11 August with a hypnotizing performance from Burkina Faso choreographer Serge Aimé Coulibaly. A powerful and poetic performance, his

Kalakuta Republik explores the connection between art and governmental upheaval.

Through movement, the new piece seeks to answer what happens when an artist becomes a leader of a resistance movement, and how this is triggered in the first place.

Further fusing politics into performance is Radhouane El Meddeb’s Facing the Sea For Tears To Turn into Laughter on 23 August. Originally from Tunisia but a French resident for many years, El Meddeb journeys back to his native country through dance, exploring a rapidly evolving Tunisia on the brink of a revolution.

No Berlin dance festival would be complete without famous Berlin-based dance troupe Sasha Waltz and Guests, known for its fluid, artfully crafted pieces that now incorporate

more than 300 artists and ensembles. Catch the troupe in Kreatur on 24 August, an extraordinary existential performance pondering a society divided by power and powerlessness, freedom and control, and community and isolation.

Also making several appearances throughout the festival is La Ribot’s Film and Installations, showcasing multimedia art that melds films with performance. Over a decade's worth of work from the Spanish choreographer will be screened, including the groundbreaking Another pa amb tomàquet” (2002), Mariachi 17 (2009), and Beware of Imitations! (2014).

For a particularly unique blending of styles, don’t miss Spanish choreographer Rocío Molina and his Caída del Cielo. Known for being the great modernizer of flamenco, Molina created an epic dance journey following a woman in search of her roots. The show, which symbolically starts inside the womb, incorporates flamenco, a concert, and performance art to express the energy of life. www.wheretraveler.com 49

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ENTERTAINMENT

BALLET & OPERA Deutsche Oper A 1960s décor-free box of acoustic magic. Director and conductor Donald Runnicles puts together rich programs with lots of Verdi, Rossini, and Mozart. 30 Aug: La Traviata (Verdi). 31 Aug: The Magic Flute (Mozart). www.deutscheoperberlin.de.

T: 030.34384343. U Deutsche Oper. B3

Komische Oper

berlinerdom.de. Am Lustgarten. T: 030.20269136.

S Hackescher Markt. E3/F3

Hochschule für Musik Hans Eisler One of Berlin’s most prestigious music academies.

Its students are members of important orchestras, choirs, and bands, and the stage presents hundreds of concerts every year – many of which are free. www.hfm-berlin.de. Charlottenstr. 55.

T: 030.688305700. U Stadtmitte. E3

Chamber Music Hall of the Philharmonie

Young and daring opera productions won this theater the title of Opera House of the Year 2013.

Australian intendant Barrie Kosky is also the artistic director of some of the performances, with mesmerizing results. Summer break. www. komische-oper-berlin.de. Behrensstr. 55-57.

T: 030.47997400. U Französische Straße. E3

Part of the Philharmonie, this concert hall presents daily chamber-music concerts and free lunchtime concerts Tuesdays. 31 Aug: The Staatskapelle Berlin (cond. Barenboim) plays Anton Bruckner. www.berliner-philharmoniker.de. Herbert-vonKarajan-Str. 1. T: 030.254880. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Staatsballett

Konzerthaus

Berlin’s ballet company currently performs at various locations. 3 Sep: Grand opening of the season. Summer break. www.staatsballett-berlin. de. T: 030.34384140. U Deutsche Oper. B3

Staatsoper im Schiller Theater While its home on Unter den Linden gets revamped, the Staatsoper has temporarily moved all performances to the Schiller Theater. Daniel Barenboim’s perfect productions range from Baroque operas to contemporary premieres.

Summer break. www.staatsoper-berlin.de.

T: 030.34384140. U Deutsche Oper. B3

CLASSICAL CONCERTS Berliner Dom Berlin’s main cathedral presents a plethora of sacred music concerts year round. www.

This charismatic 1821 concert hall is the base theater of the Konzerthausorchester, but other orchestras and soloists grace its stage regularly.

18–31 Aug: Young Euro Classics, various concerts. www.konzerthaus.de. Gendarmenmarkt.

T: 030.203092101. U Hausvogteiplatz. E3

Philharmonie The iconic concert venue is home to the acclaimed Berliner Philharmoniker, currently led by Sir Simon Rattle, but also hosts other ensembles and soloists. Free lunchtime concerts Tuesdays 1pm. 25 Aug: The Berliner Philharmoniker (cond.

Simon Rattle) play Haas and Haydn. www.berlinerphilharmoniker.de. Herbert-von-Karajan-Str. 1.

T: 030.254880. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Rundfunk-Sinfonieorchester Berlin Injecting new expression into 19th- and 20th-

at CineStar Original, IMAX, and KulturBrauerei!

Enjoy Berlin’s widest range of undubbed English versions all-day at CineStar Original and see undubbed versions of documentaries and blockbusters at IMAX as well – on Berlin’s largest screen!

Our tip: Every first Tuesday of the month Sneak-previews in original version with german subtitles at KulturBrauerei. More info and tickets at cinestar.de

Magical Nights Take a late-summer night, with its warm breeze, and add an outdoor arena sourrounded by forest. Garnish it all with the timeless melodies of Italian opera sung by belcanto superstars, and, if it's not raining, you've got absolute perfection. On 31 August, soprano Anna Netrebko and tenor Yusif Eyvazov will be duetting the night away at the Waldbühne amphitheater, performing well-known duets from Verdi's Macbeth, Aida, and Trovatore, popular arias by Puccini including Nessun dorma and O mio babbino caro, and contemporary pieces such as Bernstein's Candide. www.waldbuehne-berlin.de

NETERBKO AND EYVAZOV: © VLADIMIR SHIRKOV; WALDBÜHNE: PHOTO BY SEBASTIAN GREUNER.

Triple Englishness

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DANCE AND EXPERIMENTAL SPACES Dock 11 Studios & Eden Avant-garde dance shows and contemporary performances inside an old factory. Two locations, one in Prenzlauer Berg, one in Pankow. www. dock11-berlin.de. Dock 11 Studios: Kastanienallee 79. T: 030.4481222. U Eberswalder Straße, Rosenthaler Platz. F2; Eden Studios: Breite Str. 43 (Pankow). T: 030.35120312.

S+U Pankow. Off Map

HAU (Hebbel am Ufer) Cutting-edge shows and hip performances at this off-theater and cultural point. www.hebbel-amufer.de. Stresemannstr. 29; Tempelhofer Ufer 10; Hallesches Ufer 32. T: 030.2590040.

U Hallesches Tor. E4

Radialsystem V Once a turn-of-the-century pumping station for the Berlin Water Services, this creative space is now a cultural center and idea factory that hosts performances of all kinds, from classical concerts to jazz jam sessions to contemporary dance. www.radialsystem.de. Holzmarktstr. 33.

T: 030.288788588.

S+U Jannowitzbrücke. G3

Sophiensaele Choreographer Sasha Waltz’s center for avantgarde dance, contemporary theater (mainly in German), music, and experimental performance artists. www.sophiensaele.com. Sophienstr. 18.

T: 030.2835266. U Weinmeisterstraße, S Hackescher Markt, S Oranienburger Straße. E2

The best events in town

MOVIE THEATERS CinemaxX Potsdamer Platz Multiplex cinema. Most of the movies are screened in their original language, with or without subtitles. www.cinemaxx.de. Potsdamer Str. 5.

T: 040.80806969. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Cinestar Sony Center The latest Hollywood blockbusters, in English, every day. www.cinestar.de. Potsdamer Str. 4.

T: 030.26066400.

S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Odeon This old-school single-screen cinema was Berlin’s first English-language theater and still screens both cult movies and new releases. Hauptstr. 116.

T: 030.78704019. U Rathaus Schöneberg, S Schöneberg. C5

ROCK, POP, JAZZ A-Trane Since 1992, this intimately sized but important venue (it was named Best German Jazzclub in 2011) has welcomed both emerging and A-list talent, including Wynton Marsalis, Herbie Hancock, and Diana Krall. Daily from 8pm, free entry Sunday after 10:30pm. www.a-trane.de. Pestalozzistr. 105.

T: 030.3132550. S Savignyplatz. B3/B4

Arena A very large music hall that used to be a bus depot.

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NETERBKO AND EYVAZOV: © VLADIMIR SHIRKOV; WALDBÜHNE: PHOTO BY SEBASTIAN GREUNER.

century classical works under the lead of Marek Janowski, the oldest German radio orchestra with its 103 members has won a place in the top tier of European concert orchestras. www.rsb-online.de.

Tickets: 030.20298715.

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ENTERTAINMENT www.arena-berlin.de. Eichenstr. 4. T: 030.5332030.

S Treptower Park, Schlesisches Tor. G4

B Flat Jazz Club Small jazz bands play almost every night at this bar.

Free jam sessions every Wednesday. www.b-flatberlin.de. Dircksenstr. 40. T: 030.2833123.

S+U Alexanderplatz. F2

Café Bilderbuch Frequent jazz concerts and readings at this Schöneberg café. Second Wednesday of the month: Michael Gechter’s Vocaljazz Trio. www.cafe-bilderbuch.de. Akazienstr. 28.

T: 030.78706057. U Eisenacherstraße. D5

Columbiahalle/C-Halle The multi-function event space hosts some of today’s most popular pop and rock acts. Summer break. www.columbia-theater.de. Columbiadamm 13-21. T: 030.69812814. U Platz der Luftbrücke. E5

Estrel Festival Center Berlin

combination of programs, as well as a very popular street-food market most Sundays. www.kulturbrauerei.de. Schönhauser Allee 36.

T: 030.44352614. U Eberswalder Straße. F1

Mercedes-Benz Arena Berlin A massive arena for world-touring pop concerts and sports events, including those of Berlin’s professional ice hockey team, the Eisbären.

27 Aug: Basketball: Germany vs. France. www. mercedes-benz-arena-berlin.de. Mühlenstr. 12–30.

T: 030.2060708899. U Warschauer Straße. G4

Quasimodo One of Berlin’s historic music cafés.

Diversified program with many musical styles, from jazz to blues, R&B to soul. www.quasimodo.de.

Kantstr. 12a. T: 030.31804560. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C4

SO36

Havanna

Tempodrom

The early-1900s brewery complex now houses various restaurants and art spaces, with a rich

One of Berlin’s few preserved pre-WWII variety venues offers an international, high-caliber program of musicals, cabaret, and concerts in an elegant hall from the 1920s. 9–19 Aug: Cats, the musical. www.admiralspalast.de. Friedrichstr. 101.

T: 030.47997499. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

Bar Jeder Vernunft

Blue Man Group In its ‘36 Hours’ travel The unmistakable Blue Man Group feature, the New York Times lists the Friedrichstadt-Palast has its own permanent theater, as one of the top 10 the Bluemax Theater, where the must-see places in blue-domed performers present Berlin. an energetic combination of music,

The heart of Kreuzberg’s radical scene. The Dead Kennedys and Die Toten Hosen played here a few times, while today’s program ranges from punk and hard rock concerts to flea markets and tea afternoons. www.so36.de.

Oranienstr. 190.

T: 030.61401306. U Kottbusser Tor. F4

KulturBrauerei

Admiralspalast

A 1912 tent housing song-and-dance shows, comedy, and cabaret. Many shows in German only. www.bar-jeder-vernunft. de. Schaperstr. 24. T: 030.8831582.

U Spichernstraße. C4

Enjoy an evening with the world’s top look-andsound-alike artists and taste a three-course dinner during Stars In Concert, a live performance of legends like Elvis, Abba, Johnny Cash, Buddy Holly, and more. www.stars-in-concert.de. Wed– Sat 8:30pm, Sun 7pm. Sonnenallee 225. €20, from €60 with dinner. Off Map The place to go for salsa, merengue, bachata, R&B, and Reggaeton. Check website for program. www. havanna-berlin.de. Hauptstr. 30. T: 030.7848565.

S Julius-Leber-Brücke, U Eisenacher Straße. D5

THEATER, CABARET & MUSICALS

This large concert building resembling a circus tent – and situated on the former grounds of the now-gone Anhalter Bahnhof – hosts an array of events, from classical concerts and pop-rock productions to mixed martial arts and dance. 14 Aug: Regina Spektor in concert. www. tempodrom.de. Möckernstr. 10. Toll number: 0186.554111. S Anhalter Bahnhof. E4

art, pantomime, and comedy. The few spoken words are in English. Shows take place almost every night. Check website for info. www.stage-entertainment.de. Marlene-DietrichPlatz 4. Toll number: 01805.4444. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Chamäleon Variete An old ballroom where it is not unusual to see trapeze artists, jugglers, tap dancers, and cabaret singers. Until 20 Aug: Scotch and Soda – Circus.

Jazz. Served Straight Up! From 26 Aug: Parade: Fear Love Circus. www.chamaeleonberlin.de. Rosenthaler Str. 40/41. T: 030.4000590. S Hackescher Markt. E2

Friedrichstadt-Palast Special effects, glitzy Vegas-style live show productions at this modern theater.

Until 15 Jul: The One, Grand Show, a dreamlike journey through time in search of the person we love. www.palast.berlin Friedrichstr. 107.

T: 030.23262326. U Friedrichstraße. E3

Quatsch Comedy Club

Schaubühne A popular West Berlin theater in the 1960 and 1970s, this Ku’damm performance venue still hosts some interesting productions. Check website for program. www.schaubuehne.de.

Kurfürstendamm 153.

U Adenauerplatz. C4

Tipi am Kanzleramt

Tangomania Berlin is said to be the world’s second tango capital after Buenos Aires. From 22 to 27 August at the city’s central station (Hauptbahnhof), the Contemporary Tango Festival will be hosting performances of the stunning and colorful Argentine dance, led by a lineup of international artists who live and work in Berlin. Catch an incredible array of acts right from the kickoff event, a fusion of tango and circus art in which dancer Valérie Bilodeau masterfully maneuvers with a hula hoop. Another unique treat is Finnish tango, a relatively unknown but growing phenomenon, performed to live accordion music (27 Aug). www.zeitgenoessische-oper.de.

The big tent in the Tiergarten has a vast program of musicals, magic, cabaret, dance, and theater.

Many shows are in German. 1–6 Aug: Rainald Grebe & die Kapelle der Versöhnung. 11–31 Aug: Cabaret, the musical. www.tipi-am-kanzleramt.de. Große Querallee. T: 030.39066550.

U Bundestag. D3

Wintergarten Varieté This sumptuous variety theater that has earned a reputation for its revitalized Vaudeville-inspired productions, as well as world-famous acts.

All month: Sayonara Tokyo, a musical inspired by Japanese culture. ww.wintergarten-berlin.de.

Potsdamer Str. 96. T: 030.588433.

S+U Potsdamer Platz

TANGO: © ISTOCK; OPPOSITE PAGE: TANZ IM AUGUST, KALAKUTA REPUBLIC, DOUNE PHOTO.

This popular club hosts frequent stand-up comedy shows and a regular English-language night. www. quatschcomedyclub.de. Friedrichstr. 107. Toll number: 01806.999000969.

S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

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THEATER, MUSICALS & DANCE BLUE MAN GROUP Bluemax Theater, all month

THE ONE: GRAND SHOW Friedrichstadt-Palast, until 15 Jul

PARADE Chamäleon Theater, from 26 Aug

CABARET Tipi am Kanzleramt, 11–31 Aug

TANZ IM AUGUST Various theaters, 11 Aug–2 Sep

August 11 to October 1 Theater · Restaurant · Beer Garden Tickets from EUR 20,- // www.tipi-am-kanzleramt.de

Suitable for international guests

Hundreds of listings every month Kalakuta Republic, Tanz im August

ROCK, JAZZ, POP PATTI SMITH Citadel Music Festival, 15 Aug

CYPRESS HILL Citadel Music Festival, 29 Aug

REGINA SPEKTOR Tempodrom, 14 Aug

BALLET & CLASSICAL DANIEL BARENBOIM Waldbühne, 13 Aug

PLACIDO DOMINGO Olympiastadion, 5 Aug

LA TRAVIATA Deutsche Oper, 30 Aug

YOUNG EURO CLASSIC

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ON THIS MONTH

Konzerthaus, 18–31 Aug

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Waldbühne, 31 Aug

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ESSENTIALS | THE GUIDE USEFUL INFORMATION Emergency numbers Police, call 110 free from any phone.

Ambulance or fire, call 112 free from any phone.

Medical Services, T: 030.310031.

24h Pharmacy: Hauptbahnhof Apotheke.

T: 030.20614190. S Hauptbahnhof.

Berlin Police hotline, T: 030.46644664.

Emergency dental services, T: 030.89004333.

Poison hotline, T: 030.19240.

National emergency number for on-call medical service, T: 116117.

Berlin lost and found office, T: 030.902773101.

BERLIN AIRPORTS Berlin Tegel (TXL) Approx. 10 km (5 miles) northwest of the city center. www.berlin-airport.de. T: 030.60911150.

TO AND FROM CENTRAL BERLIN By bus: Buses 109 or X9 to Zoologischer Garten

Nobody knows the city better than your expert concierge.

Ole Petersen, concierge at Hotel Adlon Kempinski, is here to help. www.lcdg.org What does your perfect day look like?

From a professional point of view, every day where I have conjured up a satisfied smile on the faces of our guests is perfect.

What would you show your guests?

I would organize a visit to the Reichstag dome, followed by a one-hour cruise along the Spree River. Afterwards, I would visit the Berlin Wall Memorial on Bernauer Straße. No guest should miss a stop at Konnopkes (best Currywurst in Berlin) and Prater (the oldest beer garden). In the evening, I’d take them to restaurant Aigner for the best schnitzel in town.

Secret Berlin tips?

A visit to the Berliner Unterwelten.

Describe Berlin in three words.

Pulsating, international, creative.

How is Berlin different from other cities?

The fact that it has two centers: Mitte and the area around Kurfürstendamm. Also, each city district has its own, unique local hub (Kiez) – with the most diverse restaurants, shopping facilities, galleries, museums, and nightlife.

A romantic spot in Berlin?

The Strandbar at Monbijou Park. You can sit along the river with a view of the Bode Museum, while enjoying a drink or snack.

On many evenings there is also open-air dancing.

What is your outdoor tip for a summer night?

A visit to the open-air cinema at Volkspark Friedrichshain.

What is the best way to discover Berlin?

By bicycle!

What's the best place to relax in this big city?

Treptower Park, with a pedal boat trip along the river.

What is your perfect Berlin souvenir?

The Brandenburg Gate made out of chocolate. You can get one at the chocolate manufacturer Rausch or when you’re a guest at the Hotel Adlon.

Tips for a German specialty?

Beef roulade with red cabbage and dumplings at Haxe in Prenzlauer Berg.

Images: Bicycles parked by Museum Island; the Reichstag dome; Strandbar Mitte; Ole Petersen.

Berlin Schönefeld (SXF) Approx. 20 km (12 miles) southeast of the city center. www.berlin-airport.de. T: 030.60911150.

TO AND FROM CENTRAL BERLIN By regional train: Deutsche Bahn-operated

RE7 or RB14 to Ostbahnhof, Alexanderplatz, Hauptbahnhof, and Zoologischer Garten. RE9 to Hauptbahnhof via Südkreuz and Potsdamer Platz.

Trains take approx. 45 mins. Tickets cost €3.40.

By S-Bahn: Trains S9 and S45 to Hauptbahnhof, via Ostkreuz and Südkreuz respectively, run. every 20 mins, taking approx. 1 hr. Tickets cost €3.40.

By U-Bahn: Bus X7 and X11 to Rudow station connect with the U-Bahn system and run every 10 mins. Journey approx. 1 hr. Tickets cost €3.40.

By (night) bus: Arrivals between midnight and 4am Mon–Fri can take bus N7 to central areas.

By taxi: Regular cabs take approx. 30 mins to city center, costing €30–€40.

Left luggage: At the multi-storey car park P4.

T: 030.60911150.

GETTING AROUND Public Transport www.bvg.de.

Fares Buy tickets from machines in the station, and be sure to validate them in the posts next to the ticket machines. Single tickets cost €2.80; or save by paying €9 for four single-trip tickets, which you can validate as you need. If traveling fewer than three train stations or six bus or tram stops, buy a short-trip ticket for €1.70. Day tickets cost €7 for unlimited travel until 3am the following day, or if you are traveling with others, a small group ticket will get up to five people unlimited travel for €19.90. For those staying longer, a pass valid for seven days may be a better value at €30.

BIKES AND REICHSTAG: © ISTOCK. STRANDBAR MITTE: COURTESY OF STRANDBAR MITTE.

ASK THE CONCIERGE

run every 10 mins, taking approx. 20 mins. The TXL express bus to Alexanderplatz via Hauptbahnhof runs every 5–10 mins, taking. 25 mins. Single tickets cost €2.80 and can be bought on board.

By U-Bahn: Bus 109 or X9 connects to the U-Bahn system at Jakob-Kaiser-Platz. Bus 128 links to the U-Bahn at Kurt-Schumacher-Platz and runs every 10 mins, taking approx. 25 mins. Tickets cost €2.80.

By taxi: Regular cabs take 10–20 mins to city center. Approx. €20–€35.

Left luggage: Service center in Terminal A (ground floor). T: 030.41012315.

54 W H E R E B E R L I N I AU G U S T 2017

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U-Bahn The underground system is extensive. Most lines run every five minutes (less frequently outside working hours), 4am–12:30am (replaced by night buses outside of these times). The entire U-Bahn and S-Bahn network runs all night on weekends.

STATIOHNE OF T TH MON

S-Bahn The above-ground system is faster than the U-Bahn but less frequent. Trains run every 10–20 mins. Timing and ticket rules apply as above.

Public Ferries With a regular BVG ticket ,you can hop on one of the six public ferry lines. Most beautiful is the trip from Wannsee to lakeside Kladow village; ferries leave every hour and take about 20 minutes.

Rail Travel Deutsche Bahn is the railway company that manages the Regional Bahn (RB) and Regional Express (RE) trains, operating around greater Berlin and Potsdam. The Intercity (IC) and European City (EC) trains travel further afield. www.bahn.de. Toll number: 0180.6996633.

Rent A Bike Explore Berlin by bike.

Down below, there’s nothing very exceptional about Frankfurter Tor station. With its austere tiled walls, it looks much like all the other stations on the U5 line. Up above on street level, however, the 1950s Stalinist architecture ringing the massive intersection – a major junction on East Berlin’s grandest Soviet-style boulevard – is an impressive sight. Transfer here to hop on the M10 tram heading towards Kreuzberg or Prenzlauer Berg.

Taxis

Tax-Free Shopping

Würfelfunk: T: 030.210101.

German law entitles all non-EU residents to a VAT tax refund. Look for stores displaying the Premier Tax Free sign and ask for a "tax-free form." When leaving the EU, goods and the completed form must be shown to a customs agent, from which a customs stamp must be obtained no more than three months after the date of purchase. Goods must be unused.

Present the stamped form at the refund counter in the airport, or send it to Premier Tax Free as soon as you reach your destination. www.premiertaxfree.com.

MONEY SERVICES

Deutsche Bahn Call-a-Bike service:

Banks and Foreign Exchange

www.callabike.de.

Berlin and Bike: www.berlinandbike.de.

T: 0163.5120124.

Exchange AG: Friedrichstr. 172. T: 030.20649296.

Deutsche Bank: Kurfürstendamm 111. T: 030.8904370.

Rent a Car

American Express: T: 069.97972000 Diners Club: T: 07531.3633111 MasterCard: T: 0800.8191040 Visa: T: 0800.8118440

Avis: www.avis.com. T: 0180.6217702 (toll number) Europcar: www.europcar.com. T: 040.52018765 Hertz: www.hertz.com. T: 0180.6003690

Frankfurter Tor

Lost Cards and Cheques

MAP LICENSE NUMBER: BVG 0050.16; © ISTOCK.

BIKES AND REICHSTAG: © ISTOCK. STRANDBAR MITTE: COURTESY OF STRANDBAR MITTE.

ESSENTIALS

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12/07/2017 12:26

U

WHERE NOW | MIRIAM JACKS

My Berlin

MIRIAM JACKS BEAUTY EXPERT Art director, stylist, and makeup artist all in one, Miriam Jacks is an expert in all things beautiful. Not only has she done up the faces of some of Germany’s biggest stars and had her work in the pages of the top magazines, she also sells her own line of premium makeup brushes and select cosmetics in her JACKS Beauty Department online shop. www.jacks-beautydepartment.com

Where do you find the inspiration for your work?

What influence does Berlin have on your style?

I find a lot of inspiration on blogs, websites, in magazines. Often the people or styles that interest me have origins in Berlin. For example, I’ll discover a new label online and think it’s from England, only to then find that their store is in my neighborhood. This city is always finding new ways to surprise me. There’s always more to learn, things are always changing, and there’s inspiration to be found from so many people. There’s less money flowing, but that means true creativity can blossom.

Your motto when it comes to beauty?

Less is definitely more, but red lipstick is never too much!

What is coming up next for JACKS Beauty Department?

After eight years, I decided to close my retail store and operate solely online. But not with a classic web shop, but a “blogazine.” You could also call it a beauty platform. I report about my favorite looks, give beauty tips, and include other hobbies such as interior design and my love for unique product design and art.

If you were art director for a fashion editorial themed “Berlin,” how would you style the shoot?

I would have the people stand in front of the camera just as they are. I’d definitely not book classic models, but rather portray the incredible diversity of the different personalities of Berlin. As a beauty expert, the question I always return to is, “What is your favorite look for yourself?” That’s how I would do the makeup, so that everyone would feel 100% at ease.

Which neighborhood do you live in, and what drew you there?

We moved from Prenzlauer Berg to Moabit two years ago. We feel really at home here, because it’s so anonymous and real. Moabit has some really lovely corners and it takes me

only 10 minutes to get to Tegel Airport and 5 minutes to the train station. For someone like me who travels a lot, the location couldn’t be more central.

When friends or family come to visit, where do you take them?

I love the Berliner Dom, and the whole area around there. For shopping Hackescher Markt is my favorite area, and its side streets. The region surrounding Berlin is also great. I’ve been living here nearly nine years and there’s so much I still haven’t seen.

Imagine you had the entire day off to spend however you please. What would your perfect Berlin day look like?

Ideally I would start with a massage in the Susanne Kaufmann Spa in the Das Stue hotel (www.das-stue.com). Afterward, a walk to lunch in Café am Neuen See in Tiergarten Park. Because I love shopping, after lunch I would head to Ku’damm or to Hackescher Markt. For dinner, I would go for ribs with my husband at Tony Roma’s (www.tonyromas.de) – not a great-looking place, but truly the best ribs on the planet! Alternatively, I’d go for sushi at VOX (www.vox-restaurant.de) so I could catch a movie afterward at Sony Center across the road.

Clockwise from top left: The Bode Museum; Miriam Jacks; the Sony Center in Potsdamer Platz; sushi.

Inset: Miriam's line of makeup brushes.

BODE MUSEUM, SONY CENTER, SUSHI; © ISTOCK; MIRIAM JACKS AND MAKEUP BRUSHES: COURTESY OF MIRIAM JACKS.

As a city, Berlin is rather on the unpolished side. So what was it that drew you here, as a specialist in beauty?

That was exactly what I found exciting about Berlin! This is where styles are born, where newcomers have their chance to become big. I appreciate that imperfection has its place as well and that people are very multidimensional.

Moving here from Cologne nine years ago was a major career leap. Today, Berlin is home.

58 W H E R E B E R L I N I AU G U S T 2017

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