First Chair - Empire Beauty School

fall 2010

A Starter’s Guide to a Beautiful Career

.com special edition

breaking up, Confessing, bjects, sensitive su rrals retail and refe

100

schools and counting!

✭ First ✩

✩ My

Chair

t salon jobs on their firs h is d s n o ic Industry epare t to ask, how to pr What to wear, wha

Timeless looks and how to achieve them

r, business, Hair design, colo re nails and skin ca

FIRSTCHAIR.COM A MODERN SALON PUBLICATION

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GROWTH IS GOOD...

Empire Expands Number of Schools

Empire Beauty Schools recently added six new schools, enhancing its position as one of the largest networks of cosmetology schools in North America.

“We are thrilled about these new additions to our growing family,” said Franklin K. Schoeneman, chairman and CEO of Empire Education Group.

Here, highlights from the newest members:

1THE GREEN SCENE

Pineville Empire Beauty School, Charlotte, NC Building on Empire’s dedication to environmentalism, this new school features custom-designed fixtures ranging from LED lighting fixtures to 100% recyclable floors and energy saving devices in the student salon. Other energy savers? Energy Star-rated heating, ventilation and air conditioning units, motion sensing light controls and more. The school also offers the eco-friendly PURE Results product line from Regis Designline.

TOP Student Salon Floor in Paramus, NJ. ABOVE New school design offers salon professional setting LEFT Empire’s new lobby design greets students and customers. BELOW New classrooms are outfitted with the latest in learning technology.

4ALL IN THE FAMILY 2HIGH-TECH & COOL TOOLS Empire Beauty Schools in Paramus, NJ; West Palm Beach, FL and Speedway, IN

These new schools feature Empire’s exclusive Certified Learning in Cosmetology (CLiC) curriculum, Whiteboard and Nxtbook technology, and elegant custom-built student salons. In addition to life-like mannequins and professional tools, the curriculum also encompasses marketing and business programs to provide students the necessary skills to help propel their careers into other fields such as management, ownership, retail beauty sales, and more.

All Empire schools have access to industry affiliates—such as the Regis Corporation’s nearly 10,000 salons—for career placement opportunities. Students also benefit from Empire’s alumni association, community outreach programs, Future Professionals Expo event, the Masters of Beauty program and advanced educational opportunities for specialized training.

3THE BEAUTY OF GIVING BACK

Northern Westchester School of Hairdressing and Cosmetology, Peekskill, NY, International Academy Salon, Cincinnati, OH These two schools have also joined Empire and will adapt to the CLiC curriculum, as well as the Empire Gives Back program—dedicated to the fight against domestic abuse.

With the help of CUT IT OUT, students will receive training and education in identifying the signs of domestic abuse in their salon clients, as well as participate in fundraising efforts to aid local women and children’s shelters. special EMPIRE edition: fall/winter 2010 empire.edu e-01

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100 DAYS OF EMPIRE Countdown to Hundredth School “100 Days of Empire” was a whirlwind, cross-country tour of open house events that kicked off in January and wraped in October with the opening of Empire’s 100th school. The exciting countdown showcased the talents and creativity of thousands of students from across the Empire nation.

ABOVE YWCA of Eastern Union County presented with donation at Union, NJ school.

LEFT Eva’s Village, a shelter for battered women, is presented a donation at the Bloomfield school. CENTER Avondale, CO student provides nail service at 100 Days event.RIGHT Student in State College, PA provides cut during Open House.

At participating schools, salon floors were busy as students offered

ccomplimentary beauty services. Guests and prospective students toured cclassrooms and Empire teams hosted incredible events ranging from red ccarpet debuts and trendy fashion shows to carnival and fantasy themes.

Empire’s future beauty professionals gained experience networking w community leaders, local businesses, and salon and beauty repwith r resentatives during their individual open houses. Empire alumni also p participated, offering tips and career advice to the current students.

Empire students were empowered to give back to their communities.

TThey worked with faculty and staff to organize fundraisers for those aaffected by domestic abuse. The donations each school raised were ppresented to locally adopted shelters. Residents of shelters were also pprovided with other items from several of the schools, such as personal ccare items, toys for children, food, clothing, and more. The kindness ffrom Empire’s future beauty professionals flowed openly!

Empire future beauty professionals will continue that generosity dduring the 2010 National Day of Beauty Event in October.

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WATCH AND

LEARN!

Shannon Lamm, Empire friend and Goldwell Guest Artist, demonstrates three basic cuts with creative adaptations.

Goldwell’s Shannon Lamm and Empire Educator Featured on Empire Trend Release DVD ing DVD to Students now have a new train ures Empire feat enjoy and enhance skills. It er and own n salo d, Education Group frien other and m Lam n nno Sha t Goldwell Artis special guests.

Shannon Lamm and Jennifer Watson combined their years of experience to create a training DVD exclusive to Empire students.

“He wants to spread his

emic Director Jennifer Watson from the Lamm and EmpireMN,Acadschoo PASSION and EDUCATION, l worked together to demonstrate Spring Lake Park, part of a trend release three basic styles, cuts and colors as Watson, a colorist and Lamm fall. for on the newest looks also demonstrated e, with more than 15 years of experienc n phase of the ltatio consu the g durin skills communication instructional video. the same tools and The DVD training video specifically uses class training. ar regul for use nts mannequins Empire stude matter what your skill no that see to nts stude ed want Lamm using his fundamental level, students can create trendy looks techniques.

and that’s what I appreciate the most.” —Karie Davies nt Salons Karie Empire Education Group Director of Stude and Watson, and Lamm with t shoo video the ged Davies arran e Professionals Futur re’s Empi ds atten notes that Lamm often wants to spread his “He t. gues al speci and judge a as Expo I appreciate the most passion and education, and that’s what about him,” noted Davies.

er Brig Van Osten interviewing The DVD also features Shear Genius winn and inspirational advice. top professionals about their careers

special EMPIRE edition: fall/winter 2010 empire.edu e-03

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ARROJO AND EMPIRE

TAKE MANHATTAN WORKING THE SHOW >> The IBS (International Beauty Show) at the Jacob Javits

Center in Manhattan, NY, featured an appearance by Nick Arrojo.

Arrojo was on hand to promote the Masters of Beauty (MOB) program. Several students from the Manhattan area arrived at the show during the event to meet Arrojo and attend the student day, which dedicates a day for cosmetology students to participate in and network at the professionals-only show. Show attendees also were invited to partake in the more than 100 complimentary beauty classes. The next IBS show will be held in March 2011 for professionals.

TOP Nick Arrojo promotes MOB at IBS LEFT International Beauty Show 2010 RIGHT Empire’s Penny Burns and Dorothy McKinley-Soressi

OB SCENE << M I

als and students n July, more than 150 beauty profession ers of Beauty (MOB) Mast ay two-d a gathered in Manhattan for Empire Beauty by nted Prese am. progr ing train hands-on hands-on training res featu s serie ty Group, MOB’s Tour of Beau honored as 2010 tly from famed hairdresser Nick Arrojo, recen Year. the Platform Artist of ture skills and techArrojo led attendees through his signa Razor and Scissor, with g uttin Hairc ded inclu es niques. Class , Style Finishing, ment Place Consumer Hair Coloring and Color try.

Artis -Up and Make nally assisted atArrojo’s team of master stylists perso iques in the hands-on techn te nstra demo d helpe and es tende nal tips and advice, and forum, Arrojo also delivered inspiratio career to new heights. encouraged the attendees to take their the MOB Tour of for ule sched the view To register and es hosted at Class n catio Beauty and one-day Skill Certifi visit www.

US, the s acros ions locat ol Scho ty Empire Beau ty students beau ts, stylis al ssion MastersOfBeauty.com. Profe ation seals of educ nced adva MOB earn can ators and educ and Master. completion such as Advanced, Senior

[

]

LEFT CENTER Liz with Arrojo LEFT TOP Nick Arrojo with MOB attendee Masters of Beauty Tour, NYC M BOTTO LEFT iques shows make up techn

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fall 2010

AS Starter’s Guide G to a Beautiful C Career

.com fall 2010

Departments NOTE ..................................................................... 6 F FIRST GLANCE ................................... 10 O Oribe's favorite timeless updos for inspiration; men’s consultation advice; tips from the top; how beauty changes lives; and more.

FIRST VIEW ..................................... 20 W We look at the career paths of m make-up artist David Maderich, Shear Genius 3 finalist Janine Jarman She and razor-cutting raz pro Nick Arrojo. Follow their timelines to see how they made it big, and how you can, too!

p.54

A Starter’s Guide to

FRP

a Beautiful Career

)PX 5P 5BML 5P $MJFOUT "CPVU "OZUIJOH

up, Confessing, breaking sensitive subjects, retail and referrals

p.44 p.40 p.10

FIRST PASSPORT ........................................................... 28

0 )LUVW ,

, 0\

&KDLU

Industry icons dish on their first salon

jobs

What to wear, what to ask, how to prepare

Timeless looks and how

to achieve them

Hair design, color, business, nails and skin care

Different cultures defi de ne (and teach!) beauty in many ways.

We take a trip acro across the globe to find out what it’s like to be a cosmetolog cosmetology student in Pakistan.

FIRSTCHAIR.COM

A MODERN SALON

PUBLICATION

FIRST SKILLS

p.30

30 34 36 38

contents

FIRST S S SKILLS S Mastering each skill you’ll need in building your own first chair clientele. Visit firstchair.com for expanded articles and regular updates on these and other First Skills topics.

• Business— Online resources to build your career; mistakes to avoid; the fight against diversion; and more.

• Hair Design— Cutting techniques for curls; teasing tips from Martin Parsons; shear confusion; and more.

• Hair Color— Color concerns and how to avoid them; give color clients a reason to return; learning the color wheel; and more.

• Nails and Skin Care— Face masks with bling; eye brows for every face shape; and spa with confidence.

SIGNATURE STYLE.......................... 64 S S Special messages from iindustry icons ccongratulating you on jjoining a beautiful industry!

Features

40 Interviewing 101:

What you need to know in order to shine during your interview and score the job of your dreams.

44 54

My First Chair: How industry icons and celebrity stylists got their start in beauty. Celebrating accomplishments, recognizing challenges and embracing opportunities.

How to Talk to Clients about Anything: Confessions, break-ups and referrals, oh my! Hesitant to broach tricky subjects with your clients?

Never feel tonguetied again!

Visit firstchair.com today!

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editor’s note A Personal Touch s I put together this Fall issue of First Chair, which has a strong emphasis on the people who make up this beautiful industry, I cannot help but think of all the people for whom I am extremely grateful—the ones who have presented me with opportunities that have changed my life and my career. The unbelievable introductions I have been granted, the cities I’ve seen, and the beautiful personalities and passions of this industry have forever changed my life.

Whenever I interview a high-profile hairdresser, I ask, “What was your big break?” The answer almost always comes back to a person who gave them a chance—by opening the door to an opportunity to be successful. (Read how some of your favorite industry icons got their big break beginning on page 44.)

As we get caught up in our busy lives, we forget about those who help make every day miracles possible—the people who can change our day with a simple action. In the beauty industry, our clients look to us, the professional, as the every day “miracle worker.” You never know who is sitting in your chair—what kind of day or week they’ve had, and how a simple smile and thank you can make all the difference.

A quote that always stuck with me comes to mind: “People may not remember exactly what you did, or what you said, but they will always remember how you made them feel.” Treat every client with kindness, be sure to thank your client for their ongoing business and referrals. And, thank the people who gave you the opportunity to be successful—whether that’s your parents who are helping to fund your education, your boss who is giving you time off to go back to school, or your friends and family for understanding your hectic schedule.

Above all, take time to thank your teacher, thank your mentor, thank your clients. Each client who sits in your chair is giving you the opportunity to be successful—by practicing a new cutting technique, boosting your retail confidence or conversation skills, or formulating a new color.

They are helping you to be the best you possible.

It seems those who are truly successful in life always take the time to thank the people who helped make it happen. As you read this edition of First Chair, I encourage you to recognize the kindness and support of the people who helped put you where you are today. Whether you are beginning your classes or nearing the end of your education, you are on your way to greatness.

I wish you continued success and thank you for making First Chair a part of your journey.

A

editor My classmates, during our photo shoot at Pivot Point International Academy, who make me learn, laugh and grow every day.

ashipley@vancepublishing.com 400 Knightsbridge Parkway Lincolnshire, Illinois 60069

SOAK-OFF GEL LACQUER SYSTEM

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AXXIUM SOAK-OFF GEL BASE

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For a shiny top layer of protection

A must for successful Axxium Soak-Off Gel Lacquer application

Axxium Soak Off Gel Lacquer cures in the Axxium Lamp or other UV Gel Light using 9 watt bulbs.

Use Axxium Soak-Off Gel Lacquer System components exclusively.

Axxium Soak-Off Gel products should not be mixed with the original Axxium Gel System. To see more, log on as a professional at opi.com and watch the Axxium Soak-Off Gel System application video.

Visit opi.com or contact your Authorized OPI Distributor for details.

Call 800.341.9999 or visit www.opi.com ©2010 OPI Products Inc.

A Starter’s Guide to a Beautiful Career

.com

EDITORIAL

Alison Shipley Editor ashipley@vancepublishing.com om 847-415-8084

Lauren Salapatek Associate Editor lsalapatek@vancepublishing.com m 847-415-8012

Contributing Writer Kelly Cison n

DESIGN TNR Design/Terry Ntovas-Roth h

MANAGEMENT Steve Reiss Vice President/Group Publisherr sreiss@vancepublishing.com 847-634-4354

Michele Musgrove Associate Publisher & Creative Director or mmusgrove@vancepublishing.com 847-634-7890

ADVERTISING

Deborah Ogilvie Executive Managing Editor dogilvie@vancepublishing.com

Gregg McConnell gmcconnell@vancepublishing.com

West Region 805-498-3475

847-634-4359

PRODUCTION Director of Production Thomas M. Fogarty Senior Production Manager Jenny Barnette

Midwest Region

Katharine Cook kcook@vancepublishing.com 847-634-7869 East Region

Angela Reich areich@vancepublishing.com

Digital Ad Processor

203-775-5182

Jeff Hofbauer@vancepublishing.com

Administrative Assistant

Ever log into Facebook and see your friends have added a “shear” or “smiley face” symbol to their Facebook display name? You can do it too! First, copy the symbol you like (if you want a ppicture of a shear, copy it from Editor Alison S Sh Shipley’s name at facebook.com/modern.alisson). Then, click on “account settings” on the so to top op right of the screen. Then, click on “change nname.” Click on “first name,” and paste the symbol s you copied. Be sure to change your display name to reflect the same name.

Then, click “change name” to apply the settings. FYI: It typically takes 24 hours for Facebook to approve name changes.

Sherry DelVecchio sdelvecchio@vancepublishing.com 623-536-6630

CUSTOM PUBLISHING Director Custom Publishing Sales Gregg McConnell gmcconnel@vancepublishing.com

CIRCULATION Director of Audience Development Vickie Rocco vrocco@vancepublishing.com 913-438-0624

Subscription Services 800-808-2623

PRODUCTION QUESTIONS? Call Jenny Barnette 847-415-8005 jbarnette@vancepublishing.com Chairman of the Board William C. Vance President Peggy Walker

Modern Salon’s FirstChair is published bi-annually by Vance Publishing Corp., 400 Knightsbridge Pkwy., Lincolnshire, IL 60069 (847) 634-2600. Modern Salon’s FirstChair accepts no responsibility for unsolicited materials. All statements, including product claims, are those of the person or organization making the statement or claim. The publisher does not adopt any such statement or claim as its own, and any such statement or claim does not necessarily reflect the opinion of the publisher. First Chair is registered in the United States Patent and Trademark Office. Copyright 2010

8 firstchair.com fall 2010 modernsalon.com

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FirstGlance

SARA JONES, SENIOR VICE PRESIDENT AND GENERAL MANAGER FOR JOICO AND ISO BRANDS

“Graduating soon and hoping to have a long and successful career in the beauty t industry? So was I when I graduated from cosme-

tology school in 1981, and I’m happy to say that after 29 years I still love the beauty business. Here’s a bit of advice I can offer that has helped me over the years. I hope it helps you, too!”

1

Start building your networking skills now! Are you going into your community to meet and get to know the top salons and stylists? How about your local professional beauty supply distributor? If not, you need to get out there and network. You are entering a tight-knit industry where being known by others, especially those with influence, is very helpful. Technical skills are very imp important, mportant, bbut utt equ eq equally allyy iimportant mp mpo are your communication skills.

2

R e Res Research the career avenues available in our ur industry. Do you want to be a career collor colorist?

An owner? A platform artist? A man manufactur anufa er’s representative? A hairdresser Th er?

These ese ar aree only a handful of options you can eexplore exp lore in oour lor ur profession. Never think your future i limited. If is I you yyou’re ’ not totally satisfied in the position you fifirst rs rst select, t, sseek out alternatives until you find the ri right gh onee for for yyou. So, how do you find out about all th the these se opp opport opportunit ortuni unitie ties ies? Networking!

3

W When you have finally “made it,” be ssure to give back to our industry by m mentoring others. Surely someone is helping you realize your dreams and as aaspiration pir s … so why not do the same f so for some someone me else? Pay it forward, you’ll be gladd you gla yo did!

14 firstchair.com fall 2010 modernsalon.com

CAROLYN CORPORON, VICE PRESIDENT OF MARKETING, BEAUTY SYSTEMS GROUP

“Be a member! I recommend you join CosmoProf ProClub as you begin your journey into the business

of beauty. When you enroll, you join more than 125,000 students who shop at CosmoProf and enjoy the benefits of membership in ProClub. As a student member you receive eceive coupons and e-newsletters. We offer young profession als the opportunity to “test their talent” by entering Fashion Frenzy! Learn more by visiting cosmoprofbeauty.com. Check out education and shows available to you. Catch the videos and articles and, of course, look to see what’s new!” w!”

TION FO TY JOE SAN IDENT OF EDUCA S VICE PRE RNARD BE DENNIS

R

u’re green “’Whengryoowing, when you’re ripe you rot.’ y years tended man you’re ir show I at en

first ha keep an op at the very ords, always new I heard that e. In other w m arning from le ith w st k ju t uc no ago and it st to learning; arnniinngg e le iv e pt tiv ce si re po at is es into mind, one th your challeng also turning sources but ” experiences.

*

SHOW ATTENDANCE

Show Season is right around the corner, so here’s your first lesson in Beauty Show Attendance 101 from Frankie Cacciato, CEO and Professional Consultant for Katherine Frank Creative, Inc.

*

Who will I see and meet there?

You will be surrounded not only by fellow students and peers, but also thousands of licensed professionals. You will learn and shop amongst some of the finest colorists, stylists, owners, educators and manufacturers, and professional industry business people from all walks of our trade.

*

What other benefits does a show offer?

*

Should I attend the classes?

*

Your future. The majority of attendees at these events are people just like you now or what you are striving for: licensed cosmetologists. They work for manufacturers in many cases, and most of them are just like you as well.

If you’re interested in color, for example, visit the show’s website and see who is going to be teaching. Find a color company you like and look up the classes. Read about the educators and products first, and then find one of their classes that suits your interest.

Should I bring anything to the show?

Yes! If you have a business card, that is key because there are many opportunities for networking. If not, create something with your name, e-mail and phone to pass out when you introduce yourself. You can also leave it in a bowl on a manufacturer’s table for raffles, apply for job information and more. Having this information puts you at such a higher playing field of professionalism than those who don’t.

KIM ETHEREDGE A AND WENDI LEVY C CREATORS OF M MIXED CHICKS

“As a cosmetology student you should not limit your skills.

Th industry is always changing and you should be able to change with The it. This will not only make you an excellent stylist but it can prepare you to become an excellent businessperson. Taking the time to learn different tec techniques, a hot cut or color, and how to treat and style for all textures of hair, will prepare you for a successful career.”

Darren Brokaw, Artistic Director for Great Lengths USA

“Begin your research for specialty services and products NOW sso when you

begin to talk to salons about potential employment they will realize you’ve already begun em to tthink about where you want your career to go. You mustt hhave a strong foundation for all services. However, mu mus b fin by finding ding a “specialty” niche, like hair extensions, you’re setting yourself apart from the many other stylists seeking the same job you are. Salon owners and managers will immediately take notice of your ambition, earning potential and what value you could bring to their business vs. being just another new stylist waiting on the busy bus to arrive.

Don’t be one of a million, be one in a million.”

TOMMY BUCKETT, CELEBRIT Y STYLIST SEDU STYLING CONSULTANT

“When you first start at the salon, take a step back and really take in the atmosphere

, the types of clients, the mood, the energ y. It’s really about adapting yourself to that salon and the salon style. You need to be the expert to anyone that sits in your chair and really r master your craft. You need to be on trend tre and be 100 percent up-to-date on celebrity style, up-and-coming photograph ers and you need n to practice, practice, practice on how to get those latest trends and apply them to anyone’s e’ hair. You need to put in your time; you need tto go above and beyond, which many times means you need to work for free.

Give a cut away beca because if it’s a great cut, people notice and ppeople talk. Word of mouth is very influe uential. Most important, you need to ha have an amazing attitude, no ego and lo of patience.” lots

modernsalon.com fall 2010 firstchair.com 15

FirstGlance F

The American Association of Cosmetology Schools (AACS) is a network of more than 900 schools dedicat ed to providing excellence in bea uty education, and to champion a message of “Beauty Changes Lives.”

Discover how beauty changed the lives of Gill-Tech Academy of Hai r Design owner Sheryl Bruemmer, school dire ctor Sandra Wagner and a young woman from Ukraine, and how their Dream Pro ject is helping to change the live s of others. learn le e ed that the education director and staff were w working on a mentoring program for youn yo g women to help them with life skills and a self-esteem. Although the program taught young women to seek a bette ta r way of life, the program did not give wom en any means for removing themselves from m dangerous situations once they realiz ge ed they wanted more. wa Wagner knew this is where Gill-T ech Academy could make a difference Ac . She decided to launch the Dream Proj d de ect, to provide cosmetology instruction for pro graduates of the Hope Center’s mentoring ate program gra r . The project is fronted by Ukra ine’s Anya Any n Afanasenko, who is receiving instructtion tio n through Gill-Tech, with additional support from Fox Valley Technical Colle p por ge, to prepare for her role as lead instru pre ctor for the Dream Project.

Anya Afanasenko preparing for her Afanasenko is staying with Wag role as lead instructor for the ner Dream Project. until u unt she completes her education, and together they are raising funds for the project, aimed at 16- to 18-year-old girls Last year, while on a mission trip to Ukraine, Wisconwho have completed the Hope Center’s ment sin’s Gill-Tech Academy of Hair oring program.

Design school direcAfanasenko will then travel back tor Sandra Wagner learned of the to Ukraine and teach challenges young the cosmetology skills to graduates women in Ukraine face in terms of of the mentoring learning to support program. themselves. Too often, young wom en find themselves Whe n other students at Gill-Tech Acad in compromising and dangerous emy learned situations because of the program, they supported they do not have the vocational it with car washes, skills to earn a living bake sales and other planned activ wage. They fall victim to human traffi ities, using the moncking and prostituey earned to purchase equipment tion when they want to learn and for the cosmetology grow to leave their prog ram in Ukraine. impoverished lives.

“The Dream Project has changed While on the trip, Wagner visited the hearts of stuthe Hope Center, dents showing them that doing what a place where orphans in Southern they love can make Ukraine can have a difference, and in this one situa a life-changing summer camp tion also change the experience. Wagner lives of young women around the world ,” Wagner says.

*

How has beauty changed your life?

Share your thoughts with Editor Alison

Shipley ashipley@vancepublishing .com

16 firstchair.com fall 2010 modernsalon.com

, and your story could appear here!

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FirstView

DAVID MADERICH In 1997, after spending a year in Europe with Prince, David Maderich needed an agent. He dolled up his mother as ’40s actress Marlene Dietrich and the image received national attention, landing him a NYC agent.

Even with a Bachelor of Arts degree in Journalism, David Maderich always knew a career “painting faces” was for him. For nearly 15 years, Maderich has been one of the go-to make-up artists in New York City. His work has appeared in Modern Salon, Vogue, Elle, Vibe, GQ, Glamour, Esquire, Rolling Stone, Surface and The New York Times. He has a long list of celebrity clients: Prince, Bruce Springsteen, Brad Pitt, Mary Kate Olsen, Meg Ryan, Carmen Electra, Drew Barrymore, Kim Basinger, Joan Collins, as well as hundreds of models.

Maderich’s portfolio is busting at the seams with editorials and advertising campaigns, a monthly beauty column for celebrityeverything.com and his blog on modernsalon. com. Check out his work at davidmaderich.com.

1992

Decides to turn his love of painting faces into a career in make-up. He begins by apprenticing with an established artist in his hometown of Minneapolis.

1994 Realizing the need to build a portfolio, he studies Italian Vogue like a textbook and begins testing with any photographer who will look his way.

20 firstchair.com fall 2010 modernsalon.com

1997

1996

After spending a year with Prince in Europe, Maderich moves to New York City.

Transforms his mother into â&#x20AC;&#x2122;40s actress Marlene Dietrich and the picture lands him a NYC agent.

His make-up skills catch the eye of Prince and the rock superstar hires him for a worldwide tour.

2001-2007 Work continues to flow his way with editorials for German Vogue, Glamour, Elle and advertising campaigns for Pepsi, Avon, Target and Geoffrey Beene along with celebrities Carmen Electra, Drew y Kate Olsen.

Barrymore, Giselle, Kim Basinger and Mary

2010 2009 2008 20 008 8

Decides to share his knowledge of photography make-up with others through Make-Up Session workshops.

Using his Journalism degree, begins writing his Mister Makeup beauty column for celebrityeverything. com and contributes to modernsalon.com.

Nominated for NAHA Makeup Artist of the Year, continues to work on photo shoots around the world, teach his classes, write his beauty columns and build his Mister Makeup beauty empire.

Maderich with MODERN Editor Laurel Nelson and First Chair Editor Alison Shipley at NAHA 2010.

F FirstView

Since the age of 14, Janine Jarman has experimented with hair design and technique. At the age of 16, she was an entrepreneur—beginning her first hair business, “Noel and Neen,” styling the hair of her peers for high school dances. With some “shameless self promotion” (i.e. dressing up and handing out flyers at underage dance clubs), Jarman expanded her clientele to additional high schools.

It’s no surprise that by the age of 24—yup, 24!—she was a salon owner. Besides her work with the Pussy Cat Dolls, she continues to style the stars at her Hairroin Salon in the heart of Hollywood, including Fergie of The Black Eyed Peas, Scarlett Johansson and Christina Applegate, to name a few. Last year, Jarman’s fame skyrocketed when she was named a runner up and voted fan favorite on season three of Shear Genius.

Follow her on Twitter @janinejarman.

an m r Ja e n i Jan 81 9 17r,is1born! l i r Ap resse A ha

ir d

1997

Begins first hair business, “Noel and Neen,” while her best friend (and maid-of-honor, more recently) Noel did make-up for high school dances. Soon, the clientele expanded to other high schools.

2001

2000

Attends beauty school at Golden West Community College. Took runner-up for the state of California in the student formal upstyling competition.

2009

One year out of beauty school, begins assisting Michael O’Rourke, creator of Sexy Hair and Carlton salon chain.

Works her way up to Artistic Director and 2002 nternational Platform International Begins working with Artist.

Pussy Cat Dolls as lead hair stylist, traveling across the globe, including Singapore.

Joins Sebastian Professional as West Coast spokesperson. Does hair for the band The Sounds, Elle, Sebastian’s 20th anniversary and NY Fashion Week.

Appears on Bravo’s Shear Genius 3, named a runner up and wins “fan favorite.”

2005

Now 24, opens Hairroin Salon in Hollywood.

2010

2008

Nominated for a North American Hairstyling Award in the Avant Garde category.

Marries the “man of her dreams!”

Works with Elle and Sebastian at NY Fashion Week, signed with Solo Artist Agency, stays busy with Hairroin Salon, creating a strong education program and freelance team, as well as mentoring with the Los Angeles youth network.

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Born: 1966 Nick Arrojo is

born in Manchester, England.

Wins Vidal Sassoon’s Assistant of the Year and a trip to Germany to work on his first international hair show.

Nick Arrojo began his career in beautyy at Vidal Sassoon in his hometown of Manchester, England, and, after completing the company’s training program at 21, was appointed their youngest-ever assistant creative director. Soon after, Arrojo became a household name as he graced the nation’s TV screens as the much-adored hair stylist and makeover mastermind on TLC’s What Not to Wear. He continues to cut, style, educate and share his passion for the industry through his Arrojo Studio in Manhattan, his product line and educational team.

“The key to success is to have strong focus, plenty of ambition and strive to be better and better every day,” he says.

24 firstchair.com fall 2010 modernsalon.com

At 21, named Vidal Sassoon Assistant Creative Director, the youngest stylist to gain the honor in the history of the company.

2001 20 01

1994

Moves to New York as Director of Education for Bumble & bumble.

Practices razor cutting, which becomes his signature technique.

O Opens Arrojo A j Studio, an independent six-chair hair salon in SoHo, Manhatth a staff tan, with of four.

2008

2007

Fulfills a lifelong ambition with the creation of Arrojo product.

Expands ace studio space 00 square feet from 4,500 to 13,000. Wins Salon Entrepreneur of the Year from Global Salon Business Awards, releases first book: Great Hair.

Arrojo continues to work behind the chair at his salon, n his products continue to gain praise, and he continues to headline shows and support education in the industry.

2010

NICK ARROJO

As a teenager, joins Vidal Sassoon in Manchester as an apprentice stylist.

1987

1985 1 19 98

1983

FirstView

2002

Approached to audition for TLC’s What Not to Wear. Gets the gig and starts a sevenyear stint as the show’s hairdressing host.

2003

Moves his sa lon into a bigg er space and ad ds tion to Arrojo Arrojo EducaStudio.

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FirstPassport

PASSPORT TO

globe, beauty is defined defined differently by various cultures cultures. How beauty Across the globe is taught in international cosmetology schools is very different as well! We talk to Sana Verho, business development manager for Pivot Point Pakistan, about what it’s like to be a beauty school student in a country bordered by China, India and Afghanistan.

—Alison Shipley

❁

Point Pakistan Students at Pivot design demonstration. watch a long hair 28 firstchair.com fall 2010 modernsalon.com

How is beauty defined in Pakistan?

In recent years, the concept of beauty in Pakistan has taken a whole new connotation. Today, we define beauty more in terms of elegance, rather than skin color and facial features. That explains the current outburst in fashion houses, private couture lines, image consultancies, beauty salons and recreation-

al centers—because today, a beautiful image is what defines “beauty.”

❁

❁

❁ ❁ ❁

What is a “day in the life of” a cosmetology student like in Pakistan?

Due to the various categories of prospective students—such as age, lifestyle, career and status, schools generally have to be flexible with schedules. A conventional teenager would most likely attend college in the mornings, cosmetology school in the afternoons and practice in the evenings.

People who already work in a cosmetology-related field tend to spend more time at the school to get as many hours covered in the least amount of time as possible, probably working in the evenings. Then there are retired professionals from other fields who want to try their hand at the beauty business. They spend the whole day at the school.

How much does it cost to attend cosmetology school?

Depending on the kind of institute, anywhere between $100 - $1,200. Education is offered on module basis. A student has an option to focus on only nails, skin or hair. Pivot Point Pakistan akistan is one of the best institutes in the country, therefore charging around $850 per module. With a license in cosmetology, professionals may practice actice all genres of the field. There is no certain classifi assification of the license.

in the industry. It is only very rare that a student does not acquire a job after graduation. An internship is always a plus and guarantees a better salary package.

To read more about how other countries teach beauty, visit firstchair.com.

Students

at Pivot practice Point Pakistan long hair design.

What needs to be met for graduation?

For a student to be eligible for certification, on, he/ she has to put in a specific number of hours (which varies per module), secure above ve 70 percent marks in both written and practical ctical assessments and service a minimum off 30 clients per module.

Are there many male hair stylists?

There aren’t nearly as many men in the he cosmetology field as there are women. n.

Although, the number of men exhibiting g interest in the field is mounting every day.

Is it difficult to find employment after graduation?

The beauty business has grown enormously in Pakistan and there is a serious dearth of qualified professionals modernsalon.com fall 2010 firstchair.com 29

FirstSkills: Business

RECESSION? WHAT RECESSION?

By Winn Claybaugh

>>

or many months, the media, the government and business owners have been talking about a recession.

What if the beauty industry collectively refused to focus on the negative?

That doesn’t mean we should bury our heads in the sand and pretend it’s business as usual. Now, more than ever, we must be proactive and give our guests an experience worth spending their valuable dollars on.

F

Here are three things to consider: Know your guests. Do you know what your clients really need?

You might think, “Mary is out of work and can’t afford to have color this time.” When in reality, Mary might be looking for work and welcome your advice about looking her best.

*

As a result of the abunda nce of entries submitted to the Junior Style Stars Competition, a national hair competition for students, the re is a newly launched iPhone App tha t features 55 of the different bridal looks entered in the competition. Just download the App, snap a picture of you r client and then choose from a list of hair styles you can put on them.

“This tool is a great way for the hairdresser to communicate with their

30 firstchair.com fall 2010 modernsalon.com

customers,” says Paul Bar ry, president of Barristar Student Ser vices and vice president of the Junior Sty le Stars Competition. “It lets you see a hair style on someone before you create it!”

Currently, the App is free , but soon a one-time charge of $3.99 will be initiated. Beauty professionals can visit the website 500bridalhairs tyles.com and see multiple views of brid al hair styles.

Give 110% of yourself. Before you blame the economy for a business slow-down, make sure you are doing your very best work. Is your salon clean and beautiful? Is every guest receiving quality service and a memorable experience? Assess your business honestly and make improvements if needed.

Use your downtime wisely. If business is a little slow, use the opportunity to do the things you don’t normally have time for. Walk around the mall and hand out business cards. Get out into the community and volunteer (a great way to use your downtime while getting your name out there). Refuse to buy into the negative mind-set, and make things happen today!

Winn Claybaugh is the author of Be Nice (Or Else!) and “one of the best motivational speakers in the country,” according to CNN’s Larry King, who wrote the foreword for the book.

Claybaugh is the founder and Dean of Paul Mitchell Schools, with more than 90 locations throughout the United States.

ST

Business -STEP ADVICE Y B EP

Whether you become a stylist, an esthetician, nail technician or make-up artist you can choose to be your own boss by working in a booth rental salon. Rather than working on commission or salary for someone else, you can be self-employed. Booth renting can have its advantages and disadvantages. Issues to consider:

Advantages: • You can create customizable hours at your convenience.

• You can schedule your own appointments.

• You have your own business license.

• You keep your own client list.

Disadvantages: • You pay your own expenses and taxes.

• You pay for your equipment and supplies.

• Your income fluctuates.

• You do your own sales and marketing.

• You have competition inside the same facility.

Beauty and Wellness Career Transitions is a helpful online resource that will help you find advice on networking, negotiating and interviewing. Its step-bystep resume-building tools will help you enter the professional world and land the right job, right away. Sign up today and you will get unlimited access for 180 days for $10.

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DIVERSION

Why you should care: When products are sold to other markets like CVS, Walgreens, or other retail outlets, consumers buy from these stores—not from you, the professional. Bottom line is that you want to protect your sales, and when professional salon products are diverted…so are your customers.

What you can do: Inform your clients about diversion. Let them know that damaged, discontinued, outdated or tampered with products are often those, which are diverted into retail outlets.

“Diverters are negatively impacting the integrity of the professional hair industry and salon profitability,” says Zohar Paz, CEO of Moroccanoil North America, which is tackling diversion head on by launching an anti-counterfeiting system and anti-diversion campaign. To empower stylists and consumers, Moroccanoil will soon have a comprehensive “We Tip” program in place for whistleblowers that will enable anyone to immediately report diversion via a dedicated hotline, special website, e-mail or text.

Fashion Fre nzy

DOWN WITH DIVERSION What: Diversion is when a product sold by a manufacturer is distributed (diverted) into markets other than the one originally intended.

?

Should You Booth Rent?

Jack and Joelle

Ray, owners of award-winning Sam uel Cole Salon in Ra leigh, North Carolin a, participated in the Armani Privé Fall 20 10 Couture Show in Paris, constructing some of the wigs featured on the mode ls at the show. Take a look at some of the ir fashion/runway advice for beauty stu dents looking to sta rt a career in the runw ay industry.

Did both of yo u work closely with Giorgio Armani ahead of time to figure out what style s he wanted? We ha d two days of pre paration—each one las ting 6-8 hours prepp ing the wigs, with ins tion from iconic ha trucir stylist, Oribe. We wanted to make sur would be able to de e we liver the retro Ameri can ’70s look to wh ever sat in our chair om.

What kind of on-set tools di d you have just case there wa in s a hair emerge ncy? You get a sup list—you have to plies have everything… ne edles, thread, wardr tape…etc. Pack eve obe rything you can, be cause you don’t kn what will happen. ow Also, place yoursel f in a position where can take advantag you e of every opportu nity you get. Be pre for last-minute chan pared ges, and always be organized.

How can partici pating in fashio n shows and ru way events ele nvate your care er? Start as soon can. Find local fashio as you n shows for charity events, and make dif ent contacts. Find fera salon that’s alread y doing fashion sho beauty events. The ws and more engaged your salon is, the more he h lp you be engaged it will .

modernsalon.com fall 2010 firstchair.com 31

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W E N

FirstSkills: Design

Most people with curly hair want to keep length on the top of the head to l help weigh down the curl, but they w also want a sense of softness and movement, says Sam Villa, Redken’s move Education Artistic Director. Villa’s Educ Weave W a and Blunt technique is perWe fect for creating lift and softness at the t e crown area. The amount of hair th in the th weave controls the width and depth dep of the section cut, and the ends end are cut blunt to protect the integrity of the hair. “This technique teg allows the stylist to control the all amount of hair taken out so there am is no guess work. The closer the weave, the more hair is cut and w vice v versa,” explains Villa. For soft movement at the crown of curly m hair, follow these steps: h

• Take Take a section about 2 ½ inches wide in the crown area and project it up toward the ceiling.

• Hold your shears sideways and position them so the guiding blade is on the bottom and the thumb blade is on top.

• Weave the guiding blade through the section (similar to a highlighting weave) where you want to make the cut (somewhere mid to ¾ way down the hair shaft) and close the shear. You control how much hair to cut by the size of the weave. For a chunkier weave, take out more hair than a finer weave. The shorter pieces of hair create a softness that supports the natural curl texture.

Want to see it in action?

Villa uses his Signature Series 7” Dry Cutting Shear to demonstrate “Weave and Blunt” on samvilla.com/education (under “Select a Category,” choose “Curly Hair Techniques”).

ark Photo: Sh

34 firstchair.com

Fin Shears

MANNEQUIN SHEARS VS. HUMAN SHEARS The day you received your tools for your student kit, you may recall getting two pairs of shears: one for your mannequin, and one for your clients. Why is it important to use mannequin shears on mannequins and human shears on humans? We ask Randy Ferman, CEO and Founder of Shark Fin Shears—what gives?

Mannequin shears are typically of a lower quality than ‘floor’ shears. “Most mannequin heads have synthetic hair that will dull out the blades quicker, or the hair is mainly human “processed” hair and is much courser than unprocessed hair,” Ferman says. “Mannequin shears will normally have a beveled or semi-convex edge, where as the floor shears have a full convex (sharper) edge for smoother cuts.”

These mannequin shears, or “starter shears,” are great for newbies becoming acquainted with shears—or learning to palm their shears. Mannequin shears are typically less expensive than human shears. If they are dropped and cannot be repaired, the replacement cost is very low, unlike professional shears.

Also, the blades aren’t as sharp. “Mannequin shears are perfect for learning because students will be less likely to cut themselves. When learning how to use a thinning shear, their mannequin shear will get them started on the right track, without damaging a client’s hair.”

Ferman adds, the edge work on a mannequin shear will be of lesser quality.

“The beveled edge on a starter shear is less sharp and may damage and pull the client’s hair,” he says.

Avoid using your professional shears on mannequin hair.

After some time, the blades will be significantly duller and they will not perform up to expectations.

DESIGN Facebook for Thought MODERN’s Facebook page is blowin’ up! We asked salon professionals: “So you color hair at the salon, wax brows, polish nails and cut like nobody’s business... you’ve got the skills to do it on others, but have you ever done it on yourself—and TOTALLY messed up?”

Steve Napier Once I was grooming my eyebrows with my beard trimmer with the guard on and pushed down too hard and removed my whole eyebrow to a blonde stubble... boy was that embarrassing.

Andrea Clemenson Jensen I had a client tell me she was concerned with my feather razor cutting her, so I demonstrated on my finger how the guard protected her from that...in doing so, I cut my own finger.

Kim Newland I have made my neckline look like a barber cut it, it looked very manly and I had to grow it out at which time I discovered a cowlick in the back of my hair that makes it hard still to keep short hair like I like it.

Candace Amoun I was eight months pregnant, and it was 10 p.m. I was bored and decided that I was going to give myself bangs. I was using a razor to give them a little texture, when I went too close to my face and razored part of my eyebrow off.

Heather Beaulieu

I’ve gone a little thinning crazy with my thinning shear on my bangs.

Rachel Paredes O’Malley

I just finished cutting my hair for the first time...not bad I must say!

However, I have foiled my hair at home and got busy with bills and cleaning—not good when your son asks why foil packets are on the ground! Needless to say, we found my hair in those packets.

To participate in conversations like this and others, join Modern Salon’s Facebook community at facebook.com/modernsalon.

MARTIN PARSONS’ TIPS ON TEASING

If you’ve ever participated in an updo competition, no doubt you’ve heard of famed updo artist, presenter, educator and author Martin Parsons. Here, he offers four tips for young professionals to create a successful base and foundation for updo styles by teasing. Visit martinparsons.com to view his catalogue of educational tools and supplies.

1 Tease vertically. If you tease horizontally, it makes the hair stick out from the head, creating lumps. If you project vertically when you tease, the same way you cut, it follows the line of head.

3 2 It doesn’t matter how many strokes you do, the secret is to use the same amount of strokes per section. Not only does this

keep you focused on your teasing, but when you use the same amount of strokes per section, your look will be consistent.

The finer the hair, the smaller the section. If you’re going to tease a panel from temple to ear, which isn’t very far, take eight sections, tease each one 12 times. It gives you build up for volume. If the hair is slippery, at

every third section at the base, give it a shot of hair spray to lock in the teasing.

4 When you tease, only hold the hair like you’re going to cut it—at a 90-degree angle from the head. Don’t over direct. When you push the hair forward and tease it, you can’t get a base. That’s why your updo can be flimsy or hard to balance. modernsalon.com fall 2010 firstchair.com 35

FirstSkills: Color

CLIENT CONSULTATION TIPS FOR THE GRAYING CLIENT When consulting with a client there are a few things to consider and discuss. “The first and most important is to look at the quality of the gray hair fabric,” says Philip Pelusi, of Tela Beauty Organics by Philip Pelusi.

“Gray hair is also aging hair, which can be weaker, lack shine and moisture, and can also be thinning.” w “Be sure to discuss how much coverage they would like, how much would be best with their skin tone and eye color and also how much maintenance upkeep they can fit into their lifestyle,” Pelusi says. “If there are just a few strands of gray, a demipermanent color can be applied to blend the gray, which gradually fades after a few weeks depending on how frequently the hair is shampooed.” If there is a lot of gray, he says, consider a permanent color, or even lowlights for gray blending.

color

Hair and photography: Shannon McPeek Pink hair: Chris McPherson Make-up: Coty Waller and Lauren Mattison

Dark Meets Light

Eva Scrivo, lead colorist for Wella

Professionals, has noticed a trend in hair color for the Fall runways that may be soon translated into your clients’ requests. On the DKNY runways, Scrivo’s hand-painted extensions took the lighter ends with darker roots idea to the max. Paler pieces extend up the strand and are placed for full-frontal thrills.

COLOR

Get Color Clients (And Their Friends!)

Back In Your Chair

The number one way to boost your ur client retention rates is to create an cli cl eexperience x for the client, says Patrick ck

A Service Business:

M McIvor, c Matrix Artistic Color Director. r.

“Th The service should be more than color, r, be e because you can get color from a box,,” hee says. Is it the way you work, the hand d m a mmassage while they process, the shampo o or extras that they enjoy. “When n poo, pe eo return home from a cruise, theyy people br rin back pictures of the towels folded d bring in nto animals on their bed every night— — into th ho though it has nothing to do with beingg on n a cruise, it’s about the experience wee sh har with our friends and family.” share

To be a good colorist, you not only have to be good at your techniques, but you have to be a good marketer as well. Eva Scrivo, lead colorist for Wella Professionals says, if we place the value on salon services, products and the importance of the professional’s work, we will only be stronger and better colorists.

“We have to remember that we have chosen a service business,” Scrivo says. “People think that we have chosen an artistic business—and, in many ways we have. But, like all artists, we have to sell our work. So, work on the value of your work. If we all become better right now, and we work on our work, then we improve everything around us; not just ourselves, but our environment, on every level.”

Understand that a client’s time iss precious. p “People don’t have time to ow waste, so make sure your guests’ processing ceessi time is valuable, and make it pass faster, faaste ” McIvor says. Did you suggest an eyebrow eyyeb wax, or offer a magazine or complimentary co om hand massage? In addition diitio to free WiFi, the Patrick McIvor Color Co olo Studio in Bethlehem, Pennsylvania, niia, off o ers guests unique magazines unavailable avvail on newsstands that guests look forward fo orwa to reading every time they visit.

Give G clients a reason to return.

“We “W We color hair at our studios seasonally—so all lly— we create colors people look forward fo orwa to, not a retouch that looks the same sa ame year-round—a y box can do that,” he says. sa ays. “As “ with hair cuts, most of us share with w ith tthe guest before they leave what they th hey w will be doing the next visit. With our ou ur studio stu culture we share how we will evolve ev volve their color for the next season/ appointment. ap ppoin ”

WHEEL WATCH Dee Adames, winner of the second

season of Bravo’s Shear Genius, says her number one color tip for students is to learn the color wheel backward and forward.

“This will help you create an array of tones just by understanding the fundamentals.

Red, blue and yellow are the universal laws of hair color— and once you know where these fall on the color wheel you are well on your way to becoming a master colorist!”

AVOID THESE CONCERNS

Communication in the ch air tine Zilinski, owner of Sa is critical to your success as a stylist. Chrislon Concrete in Red Ba nk, New Jersey, offers three concerns and how to avoid them when ser vicing a color client.

Price of Co

lor

Many clients don’t realize the time and effort that goes into the color proc ess and stylists don’t typically like to talk about money. This dangerous combination can crea te a communication breakdown, which may lead to an unhappy and surprised client who doesn’t understand the value of hair color. During the con sultation the stylist should ask, “Do you have a budget for your color today?” Once a budget has been determined the stylist should explain the process in detail to educate the client on the time commitment and create greater appreciation for the work involved.

The gray grows out too

fast Many clients don’t think they have enough gray coverage, so they make the decision to go darker.

As we learn in school, hair grows ¼" every four weeks and the hairline is the mos Of course they are seeing gray t porous area. because the hair has grown. The client also doesn’t understand that the darker the color, the more contrast there is with the gray, making it mor e apparent. Stylists should take their clients a leve l lighter rather than darker so that the color blen ds bett any dimensional color like high er. In addition, ligh less contrast and will help cam ts will provide ouflage gray.

Concerns of Blondes an d Brunettes

Blondes often have concern s about their hair being too brassy with too muc h warmth. It is the

stylist’s responsibility to com municate to clients how many shades of blondes are available and what can and can’t be don e with her hair color.

Also, know underlying pigm ents so when you select the toner you know the appropriate level.

Toners go on at different leve ls and create different depths as a result. Cho ose wisely!

For brunettes, communicat e to the client that brown tones are made up of red. If you take the client darker she will see less warmth, therefore a lighter shade will show Understand what’s under natu more warmth. ral pigments. If a brunette didn’t have any red in her hair it would be the darkest brown. Educati ng the client is critical to the stylist’s success and a happiness with her style. Mak client’s overall e sure your client understands what look will be achieved and why that particular color is best.

modernsalon.com fall 2010 firstchair.com 37

FirstSkills:

Nails & Skin Care

PRINTS AND BLING

Photo courtesy of Milady.

reds m breathing in hund nts and yourself fro a h wit ts Help protect your clie en treatm ed during specialized of toxic chemicals us ast stylish bo sks ma al dic me ese s,, Fashion Face Mask. Th m fumes fro u and your clients designs, shielding yo ed riv de ls ica em scellaneous ch fine particles and mi and rdeners, glue, coloring ha , es lish from nail po m.

Visit slingcouture.co straightening agents.

ACHIEVING NG THE PERFECT FECT BROW

SPA S PA SAFETY SAFE AND SANITATION

Every face shape requires a customized eyebrow to soften, balance or heighten facial features. Follow these general guidelines to achieve a well-arched eyebrow for your client.

Promises of herbal-infused tea, fuzzy slippers and comfy robes may appeal to the spa’s target demographic, but sanitation and client safety should be first on our list of priorities. When spa or salon services go bad, we can find ourselves in a not-so-happy place. To minimize liability and maximize client satisfaction, here are four things we can do:

Remember:

• • •

An eyebrow should start over the inside corner of the eye.

The highest point of the arch, or the peak, should occur over the iris of the eye.

Draw an imaginary diagonal line from the outside of the nose to the outside of the eye. Where the point ends is where the brow should end.

Nail Enhancement Not only does nail color make a statement—it tells a lot about a personality, say nail experts.

Next to the face, the human hand is a person’s most expressive feature—and your clients will be looking to you, the professional, to make sure they’re in tip-top shape.

Nail shape and color speak volumes about personality and are a reflection of the client’s style. Short, square nails always work for dark colors, but OPI’s Suzi WeissFischmann, executive vice president and artistic director, says her go-to nail shape is the squoval, a square with slightly rounded edges, because it is universally flattering.

“Squoval is always a favorite of mine,” she says, “and will be a frequently worn look for the new year.”

SUZI

38 firstchair.com fall 2010 modernsalon.com

>

Use Clean Linen: Dirty and stained linen is a turnoff for clients. People generally don’t like confrontation so they may not tell you to your face that your linen is gross, but they may show you by not returning for services.

>

Have Them Fill Out A Client Profile Card: Client cards offer a glimpse into your client’s medical history and skin care routines. Having them fill out these cards can prevent serious injury.

>

Wash or Sanitize Your Hands: Clean hands help prevent the spread of germs.

>

Wear Gloves While Waxing: Provides both the technician and the client with a barrier of protection—besides it’s the law.

An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure. Following these few simple steps can be a real safeguard for both you and the client.

Tiffany Taylor, AKA “Ms. Esthetician,” from Rochester, Michigan, runs the website msestheticianwaxing.com—“a blog of waxing and all things beauty-full.”

We Offer the Following Courses for Beauty Professionals Just Like You! • Advanced Facial and Body Treatments • CIDESCO Post Graduate Program (International Certification) • Master Esthetics

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Students and graduates of Marinello Schools of Beauty receive a $100 discount on Marinello Professional Academy courses!

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FirstSteps

sting a L ea k a oM t w Ho

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By L

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So you’ve got an interview coming up, but you feel unprepared. You’re not sure what to wear, say or bring with you. Have no worries because FIRST CHAIR is going to tell you everything you need to know on getting prepared, shining in n io your interview and scoring ss e r p the job of your dreams! im

pos itiv e

con fid enc e

40 firstchair.com fall 2010 modernsalon.com

The Interviewing Process

Every salon has a different interviewing process. Some salons have a traditional approach, starting with a preliminary interview designed to screen out unsuitable candidates from a larger pool. These interviews may include questions about education, knowledge, past experiences, accomplishments and interests.

A sub-stage of a preliminary interview may also include a phone interview. For these types of interviews, be organized, have your resume on hand, and keep your voice energetic and positive, since the interviewer can’t

read your expressions.

Once you’ve passed the preliminary part of the interviewing process, you’ll progress to a second interview, where the interviewer will make a final selection. At this point, they have a good feel for you but need to close the deal. This interview may include questions directly relating to the job, how you would handle a specific situation, and also to see if you are a good fit with the other employees.

Acing the Audition Many salons incorporate creative practices into their interviewing processes. The most common is the technical audition. Depending on your specialty, a salon owner may ask you to complete a hair cut and color or a massage/facial/pedicure.

At Habitude Salons and Spas in Seattle, Washington, stylist and spa technician candidates must complete their technical tests with flying colors. “If they are a customerservice candidate, their technical is to come in on a busy Saturday and open the door and greet clients,” says owner Inez Gray. Technical auditions are not the only way salons interview potential employees.

Blo Salon in Raleigh, North Carolina, na, applied the speed dating concept to the process. In one hiring scenario, Blo invited nine applicants to come to the salon with their portfolios and resumes. Each candidate was greeted by a team member and escorted to stations set up around the salon. “We let each candidate know they had eight minutes to spend with the team member they were with,” says owner Bryan Nunes.

“When they heard the music in the salon turn down, they were to stop immediately and rotate to their left.”

This type of interviewing format allowed each candidate to meet each team member. At the end of the “speed-dating,” all the scores were tallied and the top six scores were invited back for a second interview.

Qualifying Qualities Despite the kind of interview you eventually get, whether traditional or creative, your employer will be looking out for specific qualities in your personality and work they like.

“Do your homework about the salon you are interviewing with. It shows you are interested in more than a job,” says Nunes. “Go over your resume and application for spelling errors. Be on time. Ask if you can come in and shadow someone for the day—and then follow through with it.” Competition can be fierce,

FIRST CHAIR asked artists Kelly Cardenas, owner of Kelly Cardenas salon in Chicago and Las Vegas, and Patrick McIvor, artistic color director for Matrix and owner of Patrick McIvor Color Studio in Bethlehem, Pennsylvania, what kind of content a cosmetology student should include in their portfolio: in Show three to 10 photos of your best work—not every picture you took in sschool. all of your awards, 2 Show beauty activities and projects you have rreceived or completed.

Are you talented in one A specifi spec spe sp ecifi ecifi ificc aarea are reaa like re lilikke ke color, texture or updos?

Make sure you state sta this. This also includes perfect attendance. This shows the owner that you work harder than others.

Create a simple resume. Make it easy 3 to understand. State where you have worked, what you did and long you were employed there.

Are you certified in applying eyelash or 4 hair extensions? Extra certifications/ service skills will make you stand out from the crowd.

Include something cool. What else 5 have you done? Photography? Media?

Volunteer work? Cooking? Today that extra talent can be your future to a creative relationship that includes hair. “Almost every opportunity and job I ever had was because of an additional talent that was combined with the hair I was doing at the time,” says McIvor. “Make sure you show yours.”

1

firstchair.com 41

FirstSteps

sting a L ea k a oM t w Ho

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also need to think to yourself, “Do I want to work here?” Remember, the most important thing is choosing a salon where you feel comfortable. “You can feel it from the beginning based on how you are handled on the phone, how you feel when you walk in, how the team works together or not, and how happy and harmonious be,” the environment appears to be,

so make sure when you are interviewing you make a good lasting impression.

Gray says in her salon’s interviews they listen less to what you say and more to what they see. “Your nonverbal communication, your confidence, your look, all of these things tell us more about you than anything you ever say could,” says Gray. “Be humble, but confident, tell me what you are going to bring to the table. Why should I hire you? Don’t wait for me to ask!”

Gray also advises interviewers to remember the moment you walk in the salon until the moment you leave, everyone is interviewing you. “We have had great formal interviews with candidates before but after the fact learned they were not a fit because of something they said to a client during their technical or to a desk person on the way out the door,” says Gray.

Besides trying to impress a potential employer, you

42 firstchair.com fall 2010 modernsalon.com

magine, you enter an elevator and inside is the owner of the hottest salon in town that you would love to work for. Do you have a 30-second elevator speech prepared?

This short speech, delivered in the time it takes for you to ride from the top to the bottom of a building in an elevator, can differentiate you from other interviewing candidates.

It is a clear and concise explanation of yourself, what you want to achieve and how you can benefit the salon/spa interviewing you.

I

In summary, this is what an elevator speech should answer: • Who you are.

• What position you are seeking.

says Jón Snetman, owner of Jón Alan Salon in Nashville, Tennessee. Also, consider what the salon will offer you. Does it have education programs? Is it active in the community? Does the salon hold any special fundraisers, events or fashion shows during the year?

These are some things you may want to ask before you accept a job. The more opportunities you have for advancement in your career, the more it will benefit you in the long run.

✓

Know the time and location o interview f the . Arrive 1 5 minute Three co s early! pies of yo in case!) ur resum e (just Portfolio of your p revious w An extra fo o (to hold e lder, notepad an rk. d xtra mate rials and pen notes) take List of re ferences List of qu interview estions to ask th er e Lookin’ g ood?

✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓

Styles to Get the Job It is a stylist’s job to be fashion forward and up-to-date on what’s hot in the beauty industry. Stylists going on an interview wear their hair in a way that shows they are trendsavvy and that they can deliver the same kind of styles to their clients. If you are in a pickle about what hair to wear to your first interview, take a look at these ideas offered by Teri Dougherty, stylist, educator and creator of hairconcepts.com, a multi-media website for industry professionals.

Soft Curls: “Here is a high-end look,” says Dougherty. “Even though the color is striking, it is done with a heavier highlight. Because of the soft curl, the style takes on a sophisticated feel.”

Classically Modern: “Working with a classic shape, the color frames this style and makes a statement,” says Dougherty. “By choosing softer tones, it makes you more approachable.”

Business Edgy: “This • What makes you different from the competition.

• The benefits your employer can derive from your knowledge and skills.

According to Katharine Hansen, author of Elevator Speech Dos and Don’ts, an elevator speech should sound natural, effortless and conversational—not forced. You are trying to make an impression on your prospective employer so make sure you make it memorable and it reflects your true personality. Project your passions; be friendly and enthusiastic. Make sure in your speech you don’t only focus on yourself, but what you can offer the salon/spa in which you are applying. Be sure to maintain eye contact and don’t ramble on longer than you need to.

look is fashionable with an up-market edge,” says Dougherty. “The versatile styling and textured cut shows individuality.”

Hair color and styling: Teri Dougherty Make-up: Haven Caravelli Photography: Joel Heppting / Banner Mountain Creative

modernsalon.com fall 2010 firstchair.com 43

MyFirstChair

My First Chair

By Alison Shipley

As a beginner in the industry, no doubt you’ve experienced a time where you felt unsure of yourself, uncertain of your talent and capabilities in the salon—what if I’m not good enough? What if I mess up? What if they leave unhappy?

The truth is, every successful stylist has experienced the fear, the uncertainty and the anxiety. Even the most successful stylists had challenges in cosmetology school, felt the anxiety of servicing their first client, and felt the fear when applying for their first salon job. But they persevered through the challenges.

The expression: “Success is a journey, not a destination” holds true as First Chair talks to some of the industry’s finest about their challenges, their successes and their first salon jobs.

✩

44 firstchair.com fall 2010 modernsalon.com

Beth Minardi, as a child with her mother.

Beth Minardi was a born educator. She earned her degree in early childhood educa on and theater, and began a career teaching kindergarten. While a ending graduate school, she snagged a small part in a movie where she played a “beat-up, redneck gas sta on a endant.”

“I was mesmerized by the hair and make-up trailer,” Minardi says. “I became absolutely fascinated with make-up and color.”

While there she met Douglas Marvaldi, an Intercoiffure member who owned a small salon in Florida, where he encouraged her to a end beauty school.

“He said to me, ‘You can go to grad school all you want—but unless you get your license and go to cosmetology school, you’ll never be behind the chair.’”

Minardi had found her passion—but her family didn’t think it was worthwhile to pursue. “They weren’t very suppor ve of the profession,” she says. Yet, Minardi made the tough decision to quit grad school, gathered the $1,000 it cost to enroll in beauty school, and began a ending classes at night in Orlando, Florida.

A er gradua on, she got a job ren ng luxury apartments. “I rented an apartment to an elderly lady who had just re red from Clairol,” she says. “She told me Clairol was looking to hire people with college degrees and the next thing I knew they flew me to Atlanta for an interview.”

The training was an intense, one-month program where she spent a week each on four areas: semipermanent color; permanent color; bleaches and toners; and special effects, highligh ng and lowligh ng.

“I was naturally good at color selec on because I have a background in art—painting and hair color are similar. I understood early on that just because you mix blue doesn’t mean you are going to get blue hair.

Formula ons are more scien fic than that— it’s a lot more addi on and subtrac on,” she says. “No one can be crea ve un l he or she is technically proficient. I wanted to be crea ve. But I had to become proficient first.”

When Minardi returned to Miami, she was the only non-wealthy person living in a wealthy apartment complex. So, she began

doing the hair of her wealthy neighbors. “They gave me $10 each,” she says. “I taught myself to color hair in my apartment and got models for Clairol shows.”

Eventually, she was promoted to New York with Clairol. “My first job was to organize cluster classes in chain salons,” she says. She also worked in product development in the Clairol lab. And even toured the country performing hair color makeover sessions on TV for Clairol.

For a short Ɵme, Minardi worked in a beauty salon in Orlando, where she was responsible for cuƫng, coloring, washing/rinsing, seƫng hair and puƫng clients under the dryer.

“Because it was a commission-based salon, there wasn’t a lot of camaraderie,” she says. “I had to overcome being young, I had to get clients to know

at the North American Hairstyling Awards for her outstanding career in advancing the professional colorists’ skills in technique, placement and applicaƟon, which “was truly a dream come true.”

“It takes Ɵme, pain, pracƟce, commitment and learning,” she says. “Even though I went to all the color classes available, it was up to me to learn everything. The best thing I did was never thinking I was finished learning. Never becoming complacent.

Always remaining passionate.”

Minardi is currently growing the Minardi Luxury Color Care line of shampoos, treatments and styling products. And she conƟnues to write, teach, work behind the chair at her salon and develop new coloring products. She also has a blog on modernsalon.com.

you like me to give you a formula for success?

“It’s Would quite simple, really: Double your rate of failure. You are thinking of failure as the

enemy of success. But it isn’t at all. You can be discouraged by failure or you can learn from it—so go ahead and make mistakes. Make all you can. Because remember that’s where you will find success.

—Thomas J. Watson

”

President of IBM, who oversaw the company’s growth from 1914 to 1956.

M i n a rd i i n 1 9 7

8

me. While they were becoming confident in me, I had to gain the confidence in my own skills.”

In 1986, with husband Carmine, she opened Minardi Salon in ManhaƩan. “I decided I sƟll wanted to teach hair color, but I wanted to do salon color on a full-Ɵme basis,” she says. She stayed at Clairol and conƟnued to consult and teach for Logics. “I worked in the salon all week and 20 weekends a year taught hair.” In the early ’90s, she worked for Redken as a Special Hair Color Consultant and helped develop Color Fusion.

Minardi accept “Throughout my career, I’ve never s her Li Lif ife fet f tim fe ime Achievement Aw stopped teaching; it’s something I waarrdd at at NAH HA 20 10 , pr ese passionately love,” she says, referring ntedd by Sa Sam Br Brroo-ca to and MODERN to her Minardi Beauty Focus classes, SALO SA LON’s’s Maggie Mulhern Color America with Beth Minardi, n.. in-salon educaƟon, industry trade show educaƟon, and even one-onone job shadowing. (The Minardi brand even has its own colorprotecƟng wet line!)

Most recently, Minardi became the spokesperson for Joico Vero K-Pak color and was awarded the LifeƟme Achievement Award

MyFirstChair

Faatemah Ampey Freelance editorial stylist, reality TV personality, NAHA winner

Whether she’s behind the scenes at a runway show, in front of the camera on Shear Genius 3 or behind the chair doing freelance editorial hair, Faatemah Ampey has star power.

Although she was born in Greenville, Mississppi, Ampey calls Minnesota home. Her parents moved the family to Minnesota at the age of five where, growing up, she always imagined she’d become a doctor or writer.

Yet, her mother saw something s different in Ampey, even at an eearly age she expressed an interest in art, wri ng and self expression.

Ampey’s In fact, Amp pey’s older sister Arzella went to beauty sschool first—paving the Ampey’s way for Ampe y’s own future. Although Arzella didn’tt finish her cosmetology schooling, shee would never lose her love Arzella for hair. Arze lla was Ampey’s first hair mentor—teaching mentor—tea ching her the ar stry of Later, Minnesota’s braiding and weaving. w tute Aveda Ins tu ute would introduce her to side the other sid de of beauty, shaping her versa into a ve ersa le and talented stylist.

At the Aveda Ins tute in Minneapolis, Minn neapolis, color theory proved prov ved to be Ampey’s most diffi fficult challenge. “I was naturally na aturally more drawn to cutng n and styling—my shears felt fe lt like a natural appendage off my body,” Ampey says.

“The “T The first moment I held them th em I knew I was born to do hair.” ha air.” Ampey always knew her h er worth, and the extra

46 firstchair.com fall 2010 modernsalon.com

Left: Faatemah Ampey as a child.

value she could bring to a salon even as a student. “As a young professional in the industry, I knew my hair extension knowledge was a unique skill that would add value to o any salon—diversifying service and bringing brin nging in a new clientele,” Ampey says.

A er gradua g ng and receiving her license, Ampey accepted her first salon job at Spalon Montage, for $12 an hour—which, in 1996, was a he y request for a newbie in the industry.

“The average pay for a salon appren ce at that me was approximately $6 per hour,” Ampey says. “With extensions being more available and accessible now, having extension skills isn’t quite the same bargaining chip it was 14 years ago!” Ampey’s very first client at Spalon Montage was someone who actually followed her from beauty school. “I have several clients who are s ll with me from my kitchen!” she laughs. “And Mitchell, who is the owner of Spalon Montage, is s ll one of my dearest friends today.”

While at Spalon Montage, me management was a struggle for Ampey. “I am a huge perfec onist—shortcuts are never an op on for me,” she says.

“I want to give each client 200 percent.” But, she says, throughout her career, me management has been both a strength and weakness. “Now, I have a great support system at my salon that keeps me on me … most days.”

In 2009, Ampey won a North American Hairstyling Award for her Fashion Forward entry. “Winning a NAHA made me an industry name overnight and has given me great credibility in the industry,” she says. Not long a er, she appeared on season three of Bravo’s Shear Genius—boosting her skills and credibility in the salon.

What’s Faatemah’s moral of the story? “Listen to your heart. If I’d listened to people I wouldn’t have gone to ccosmetology school. sch hool. I was also told Iw would never win a NAHA. NA AHA. Choosing to do both bot th has changed my life.

Myy moral of the story is: Don’t ever give up on your you ur dreams! They just might mig ght come true.”

Left: Ampey during her stint on Bravo’s Shear Genius 3.

MyFirstChair

Michael Shaun Corby Alterna’s Global Creative Director, celebrity stylist

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As a renowned interna onal pla orm ar st, styling and cu ng genius and Hollywood insider, Michael Shaun Corby raises the bar on innova on daily at Alterna Professional Haircare, where he is the Global Crea ve Director. Prior to joining Alterna, Corby created fabulous hair that graced TV, chart-topping music videos, and A-list films. Corby trained under top stylists José Eber and Umberto of Beverly Hills, learning the techniques he would later take to the next level and offer to Alterna salons around the world through his state-of-the-art educa onal programs.

“A er gradua ng high school, I had three choices: become a psychiatrist, a rock star or a hairdresser,” Corby says. “Not having ng the funds for an Ivy League educa on, nor the best voice on the planet, becoming a hairdresser was a logical choice for me!”

Corby began his beauty career at age five, styling hair for his grandmother. “From that point on, I kept at it, styling cheerleaders and prom queens throughout high school. Beauty school followed, and I immediately loved it. I knew I was doing the right thing,” he says. “Besides, aren’t we all psychiatrists and rock stars anyway!?”

His first chair at a salon was in 1989 at José Eber in Beverly Hills, California. “The clientele was mostly wealthy women from the Beverly Hills area and also people from out of town wan ng to experience the glamor of a Beverly Hills salon,” he says. “It was a big challenge trying to give everyone a personalized service while working with a huge number of clients each day.”

M

Since beauty school, Corby says his greatest accomplishment is the relationships he has formed. “Some of these people from my past have remained clients to this day,” he says. Now, for more than five years, this “stylists’ stylist” has overseen and designed all of Alterna’s cutting-edge collections, unique styling and cutting techniques, and educational programs.

Corby has been in demand by top celebrities including Rosario Dawson and Nicole Richie as well as world-renowned stylists alike.

What’s the moral of the story? Always start working where you want to live! “Think about where you want to end up—clients will only follow you five to 10 miles. I built my life around West Hollywood/Beverly Hills and am s ll living there today. I couldn’t be happier with my choice.”

modernsalon.com fall 2010 firstchair.com 47

ol. cho ssee in high s

MyFirstChair

Sh e

rri Je

SherriJessee

Salon owner, Rusk Creative Team member

48 firstchair.com fall 2010 modernsalon.com

It began in mountainous Bristol, Virginia, o where Sherri Jessee w grew up. “I was eleven years old when I started my own hair—I really cutting m wanted to have Farrah Fawcett’s feathered hair and going to the salon was just something we didn’t do back then,” Jessee says.

“So, I cut off an inch at a time, hoping my parents wouldn’t notice, and slowly began cutting in the layers.”

Around the same time, after a “traumatizing” trip to the barbershop with her father, Jessee became the personal stylist for her younger sister, Karen (who now works as Jessee’s salon manager).

“Even as a young girl, I remember drawing pictures of hair styles; however, I never thought of hairdressing as a real career,” Jessee says. In fact, she actually began college with a major in theater, but couldn’t afford the steep tuition. A friend suggested she go to cosmetology school—so she did, at Virginia Academy of Hairstyling.

“I’ll never forget my first hair cut on the floor: Two and a half hours later and with beads of sweat on my upper lip and forehead, my instructor, Mrs. Capps, came over to me and said, ‘If you don’t learn to work faster, you’ll never make any money.’”

With time and practice, Jessee’s speed and accuracy did improve, allowing her to develop a thriving business.

Her first job was working at a salon called The Hair Zoo— owned by a husband and wife duo, and they were tops in the town. “Working in a commissionbased salon takes a bit of time to build your business—but don’t be discouraged!” Jessee says.

“I shampooed, swept hair, and watched every cut they did to learn the techniques. I even did add-on services to fill my time, like painting intricate designs on fingernails to boost my growing business.”

In the ’80s, cuts and perms were “all the rage”— and Jessee kept a busy clientele while avoiding color clients. “With color, there are so many variables; and fear steered me completely away from doing color services,” she says. Yet, in the ’90s, as the industry changed, understanding color became essential. After an inspiring color class, Jessee learned more about natural levels, underlying pigments and how to reach the desired level. “With tons of practice and experience, now nearly every one of my female clients receives some type of color service,” she says. “As the industry changes, it is imperative that we keep learning about new products, tools and techniques. Continuing your education will keep you excited and in love with this wonderful business!”

Years later, after much hard work, Jessee went back to school and earned a Bachelor’s Degree in Education, thinking she would get out of hairdressing and become a school teacher. Yet, even after she graduated, she didn’t accept any of the teaching jobs offered to her. “I just couldn’t stand the thought of giving up hair—I loved it so much!” she says.

“How amazing for me to now be able to merge theater, teaching and hairdressing as part of the Creative Team for Rusk.”

When Jessee attended her first Rusk hair show, Rusk was actively looking to develop a local design team, so she applied to be an educator. Within the first year, she taught nearly 60 in-salon classes in seven states.

Jessee with Nancy O’Del l, Rusk’s spok eswoman

.

“I went anywhere that was within an eighthour drive,” she says. Including once when she drove two hours through a major snowstorm to find an open airport so she could fly to Los Angeles and assist at the Rusk Academy.

“Another big break for me was attending the MODERN SALON Artist Session in September 2009—it created an entirely new chapter in my hairdressing career by igniting in me a passion for doing make-up and hair for photo shoots,” she says. “I have been fortunate enough to work with great people and have my work published in magazines all over the world!” In addition, Jessee works with Rusk celebrity spokesperson Nancy O’Dell, which has allowed her to work with celebrities in video and on television.

After two years at her first salon, Jessee was ready to open her own salon—and, 25 years later—she’s still running it. “My grandfather had a coffee cup embossed with the motto, ‘Why work 40 hours for someone else when I can work 60 hours for myself.’ That pretty much sums it up as a salon owner: It is a position that requires dedication and hard work. It truly is a labor of love; however, I wouldn’t have it any other way!”

Remember, she says, keep learning, keep growing, and you will keep loving your job!

Jessee with Irvine Rusk, founder of Rusk.

modernsalon.com fall 2010 firstchair.com 49

MyFirstChair

Kimberly Kimble .

that I really felt comfortable cu ng.

I could roller set, I could blow dry, and Kimberly Kim ble in cosmet I could do wet olog y school. sets—which really came in handy later when I did the hair for Dreamgirls, because they all had coifs from the ’60s.”

In addi on to developing a product line—Kimble Hair Care Systems—and educa ng in the classroom, Kimble built a full-service salon, Kimble Hair Studio, located in West Hollywood, California.

Kimble a ributes a large part of her success to her willingness to learn how to style all hair textures. “I went to two different beauty Celebrity hairdresser, product manufacturer, salon owner colleges because I wanted to learn about different hair textures. I didn’t want to be limited in what I did. Don’t be afraid to learn—especially Even though she is a third genera on when you’re in school. That’s when you can hair stylist, Kimberly Kimble’s ini al experiment and get away with it—this is where dream was to be a fashion designer. you need to have your guts! Get out there and “I went to beauty school with the really go for it. Get as much educa on as you inten on of doing hair to work my can. Don’t be afraid of trying to learn way through fashion school,” she says. about hair that’s not like “But as I began to learn more about bout yours. Do what you tthe industry and go to hair shows and love to do and folli d see hair ar sts, I really fell in love with h low your dream and ac how I could give my clients more hair. Seeing S ore s a le passion, not the confidence and really change their state of mind confidenc nd Kimb money. The with a new hair style was really inspiring and made me money will love the industry even more.” come.”

The first salon Kimble worked in was as a shampoo girl, rinsing manes at her mother’s Trina’s Beauty Supply and Salon, on, in midtown Los Angeles. As she grew older, she started cu ng and styling at Black Hair and More, and Radiantly Raw Barber and Hair Salon, both in Los Angeles.

Since then, Kimble has appeared as a guest judge on Bravo’ss Shear Genius and Tabatha’s Salon Takeover, as well as madee appearances on Oprah and has educated at the Bronner Brothers Show, America’s Beauty Show and more. Kimble’s list of clientele boasts some of entertainment’s and Hollywood’s ’s most notable names, including Beyoncé Knowles, Mary J. Blige, lige, Vanessa Williams, Kerry Washington and Shakira.

Her biggest challenge? “Trying to fit everything in and d schedule my life, clients and business,” she says.

But me management wasn’t always her biggest challenge. In fact, she had many challenges while in beauty ty school at Dudley Cosmetology University in North Carolina. a.

“Even a er gradua ng—I went to every class I could because there was s ll a lot of things I didn’t feel comfortable doing: Fingerwaves were a big challenge, and even cu ng was a big challenge at that me. It wasn’t un l I went to Vidal Sassoon oon

50 firstchair.com fall 2010 modernsalon.com

MyFirstChair Fredric’s Ins tute in Indianapolis, Indiana. And it all took off from there.

“I can remember the first day I had to go on the salon floor,” he says. “I thought, ‘OMG, I have to talk to someone I don’t know? What will we talk about? What if they hate me?’” w In ffact, Mathes was so anxious about the salon floor experience that he ended up skipping k school for two weeks! Eventually, he mustered up the courage to go back and hit the ground running. “I knew I just had to do it,” he says. His first client had long, black, thick hair and wanted two-inches off her length, with zero projec on. “The consulta on didn’t go that bad—and the hair cut was easy, it came naturally,” he says. “I remember her clearly because she pped me $40 on a $5 hair cut!”

Mathes became so good at cu ng and styling, he entered the North American Hairstyling Awards and snagged the biggest win a student can earn—2010 Student Hairstylist of the Year! graduated, Now No w that that he he’s e s gra gradua graduated du ted dua ted,, h hee ccan an n wa wal walk a k right righ ightt up up to to a client cl clien ent en and do o a full fu l consulta ful cons onsult on u a on ult o and talk talkk alll the th he way way through throug thr oug oug ou ugh h the th hee service, without had. sser er e vic vice, e wit e, w wi ithou outt tthe he fea he fearr he he once once ha h d.

“Being a hairdresser is something I fell into and I didn’t Mathes up think I was going to like,” Ma Mathe thess says ssays. ays.. “I “I ende eended nded nde du p falling fall fal a ing al in ng in n the profession. lov love ove with with th he prof p r esssion rof on.. I love lo ove tha thatt there theree is ther is something some some omethi thi hing ngg new neew w eeveryday eve everyd veryd ryday ay and that that I don’t don’ on t have have to sit sit behind behiind a desk! behi desk! desk eskk! NAHA NAHA A reinforced myy ccrea helped rei re e nfo nforce r dm rce rea vvity ity an and dh elllp elp ped e build build my passion passio pas sion sio n for for hairdressing.” hai h a rdr r ess rd e ing ing.” .”

i Patr

Patrick Mathes ck

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NAHA 2010 Student Hairstylist of the Year

✩

Growing up in Carmel, Indiana, Patrick Mathes was interested in Barbie dolls, playing “house” or “nail salon” with girls from class or the neighborhood, rather than playing with his two brothers.

“Up un l sophomore year, I never really cared about school,” he says. It wasn’t un l Mathes’ mom insisted he get a job that his outlook on life changed.

Mathes searched and searched for a good fit—trying desperately to find a job he actually enjoyed.

Finally, when he got a job answering phones for his mother’s stylist at a li le salon called Bekah’s, he knew he had found his passion.

“A er answering phones in the beginning, I was then put in charge of ordering products— then I did a couple of marke ng pieces, then I was asked to do payroll,” Mathes says. “I thought, ‘Isn’t this what you’re paying the manager to do?’

Bekah said to me, ‘If you weren’t in school, you would be the manager.’ That one comment made me realize, ‘Hey, I’m good at what I do!’” Before long, Mathes was heading to high school during the day and, as soon as it hit 3:10 p.m., he was off to the salon to do what he loved.

“At age 16, to be called Assistant Manager— made me feel unstoppable,” he says. But then, the economy turned for the worse—the books were dead, hours were ge ng cut and hee cou could d no o lono ger afford all the things he wanted. Fortunately, Mathes found a new job at Beauty Brands Spa Superstore. He a ended high school, and half days at voca onal school for cosmetology at Kaye’s Beauty College. He con nued his educa on at Aveda

Above: Mathes as a child.

Left: Mathes accepts his NAHA 2010 Student Hairstylist of the Year Award.

modernsalon.com fall 2010 firstchair.com 51

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FirstConversations

Hesitant to broach sensitive subjects with your clients? Never feel tongue-tied again!

Use expert tips from our comprehensive guide to talk to clients with professional confidence.

54 firstchair.com fall 2010 modernsalon.com

by Kelly Cison

M

ost clients will tell you directly their hair concerns—whether she is bored with her cut, red of figh ng the frizz or facing thinning strands, says Joe Santy, a hair professional for 35 years and vice president of educa on for Dennis Bernard Inc. The best approach for all your clients is to jump-start the conversa on during the consulta on.

“I begin by asking three basic ques ons,” explains Santy.

“One: ‘What do you like most about your hair?’ If you start off telling the client how you would update their style or what you would change, it breaks the rapport. But when you know what they like, it gives you a be er idea of how to approach their hair.

“Two: ‘What do you not like about your hair?’ Whether it’s texture or color, you can then find your selling point, and offer the client a texture or color service. But make sure you know what they like first, so you lower the risk of offending the client with your sugges on.

“Three: ‘What do you expect this cut or color service to

wi ith h it,” reports Santy. with “It’s individual to each person. But even she will get a glaze to add a nice shine to her hair.”

Whatever solu on you find, it’s important your client understands the commitment she’ll be making to maintain her new hair. “Men on the appointment interval that you recommend before you begin anything,” says Jessica Dodge, educaon director and lead stylist and colorist at Caruh Salon Spa in Sea le, Washington. If your client isn’t aware of how to keep up with her new look, all your hard work will essen ally be undone when she walks out the door.

Maybe all she really needs is just a li le refresher to her

do for you?’ Many clients have unrealis c expecta ons.

They bring in a photo of a hair style, then get upset when they don’t end up looking like the model in the photo.

Always find out the client’s expecta ons.”

For even more effec ve communica on, Santy recommends that stylists read as much as possible to build their vocabularies and cul vate a professional image. One op on is Santy’s own book, Passionate Salon Professionals, wri en in conjunc on with a psychologist, about the unique dynamic between stylist and client.

If a client is reluctant to open up about a sensi ve issue, you can probe a li le further. “I would ask, ‘Do you feel your hair is as thick as it was a few years ago?’ Or, ‘How do you feel about hair color?’” says Santy. “Talk in terms of feelings to see where they stand with it.” Never discount how a client feels about her hair, whether good or bad, since it will erode any trust.

Consider any hair issues a revenue opportunity for you.

Thinning hair is one of the top categories in hair care today— think thickening products and treatments, extension services or layered cuts to add volume. Even clients who decline commitment-heavy services, like foils, may be open to more lowmaintenance op ons. “I have a client who doesn’t like color and she looks 20 years older than she needs to, but she’s okay

look—but refuses to part with the ’80s bangs or the ’90s “Rachel” cut. Again, tac cal communica on is key. “I’ll stand in front of her so I can see her face when I speak,” says Janet Rabig, a stylist at Salon 37 & Day Spa in Algonquin, Illinois.

“I’ll look at her face shape, her whole style, and say, ‘Have you ever thought about…’ and suggest maybe a sideswept bang instead of a straight bang as an update.” Even if the client rejects the idea, Rabig doesn’t let herself get discouraged. “At least she knows I’m considering her style and working to keep her look fresh.”

Showing off a “hair idea” file is a subtle way to encourage clients to consider a change. “I’ll show them pictures I pull from magazines, something that is an update on what they already have,” adds Rabig. “If they s ll say no, that’s okay because I might have planted a seed. And it has happened that a few appointments later a client will ask, ‘Do you s ll have that picture you showed me? Can you s ll do something like that?’”

The bo om line when confron ng sensi ve topics? “Hair issues are only a problem when a stylist makes it a problem,” advises Santy. “You should approach every client with the same enthusiasm.” A er all, he notes, the only thing that separates a good cut from a bad one is if the client likes it. modernsalon.com fall 2010 firstchair.com 55

“Without new guests, there can be a significant drop in revenue.” e.”

I

t’s a problem that’s not unique to new stylists: “All salons lose guests to a ri on,” declares John Benede o, educa on director for Global Kera n Hair Taming System. “Without new guests, there can be a significant drop in revenue.” And, as any beauty professional knows, it’s much easier to con nuously attract referral guests through sa sfied customers than to scramble for a brand-new clientele a er your base has already dwindled. For that reason, innova ve salon teams are working together to encourage a steady wordof-mouth buzz.

The tried-and-true referral card is one surefire incenve. Here’s how it works at Accolades Salon and Spa in St. Paul, Minnesota: “It’s mandated that each stylist presents three referrals cards to the client at the front desk during check-out,” explains owner Brad Schlaeger. “They also include their business card, present their retail recommenda ons, thank them for the service and shake their hand.” When the client passes on the referral card to a friend, the new client gets $10 off her first service, and the referring client gets $10 off her next service. Referral cards typically have the current client’s name wri en on it, so it’s easy for the stylist and front desk to track.

Other salon-wide ini a ves drum up excitement that clients love to share with friends. Indra Salon and City Spa in Andover, Massachuse s, regularly hosts in-salon par es to celebrate top clients, reports owner April Lyn Graffeo. The favored guests are indulged with wine and cheese and watch fun runway presenta ons that showcase fashions from local bou ques. Each invitee can bring up to five friends who get to see the salon, meet the stylists, learn more about the services … and maybe even become top clients one day themselves.

The Spa at Folawn’s in San Antonio, Texas, uses the allure of exclusivity to draw referral clientele. Their Spa Club

56 firstchair.com fall 2010 modernsalon.com

memberships, available at three different price points, allow a spa guest to receive an array of discounted services every month. And talk about friends with benefits: Any pal who accompanies a club member for a service will get the same discounted prices.

Folawn’s VIP program takes the club idea to a new level.

Their VIP clients, whom they dub “Honorary Board Members,” pay a $2,000 fee to receive a credit for $2,200 worth of services—as well as goodies like free products, a discount on retail, and a spa robe and slippers. The VIPs also get special pricing when they bring a friend in any me, as well as special nights at the spa where they’re encouraged to bring a group and try out complimentary mini services.

With currently about 40 “Honorary Board Members,” there are a lot of people spreading the Folawn’s love!

On an individual level, be sure to take good care of all your clients. Reward their loyalty with advance no ce on special promo ons, perks on birthdays and thank-you notes for their business. The extra effort will have them talking you up to everyone they know!

F

irst, it’s crucial to always give a client the benefit of the doubt. When someone is unhappy with the work you’ve done—which will inevitably happen at some point during your career—avoid making split-second judgments or poin ng fingers. Even if you’re sure the client is just impossible to please, a emp ng to understand how they’re feeling, and why, is the first step toward conflict resolu on.

When there’s a dissa sfied client at Indra Salon and City Spa, Graffeo goes to great lengths with her staff to avoid simply dismissing someone as “crazy.” First, the stylist will hear out the client, with a manager present if necessary. “We do listen to the client, and give her an opportunity to express herself,” Graffeo says.

“Then the stylist will carefully re-consult, and we’ll give her a chance to do the service again.” If the manager can see the stylist-client rela onship is not going to work, she may suggest another stylist or a different service to the client.

There are rare instances—and our experts stress that they are indeed rare— when seemingly nothing will satisfy a client. In the past 13 years, Graffeo says there has been only three mes where she’s recognized she’s figh ng a losing ba le with a chronically unhappy customer. In those cases, “as a last-possible resort, we’ll buy and mail them a gi card to another salon and hope that

will meet their needs,” she says. But it’s never done lightly. Her staff takes “breaking up” with a client seriously, and there are protocols that everyone must follow before it ever gets to that point. Be sure you are clear on the rules in your own salon, and solicit support from your manager, if you find yourself in a client-from-hell situa on.

Some mes it’s a ma er of a client thinking she knows be er. Santy relates a story about one new client who insisted he cut her hair dry—a er he had already cut her hair wet, giving her exactly the cut she asked for. “I told her it would just make it too short, but she insisted,” he says. “A er I cut it a second me, I had to re-wash it and re-blow dry it. Later, when I called her to follow up, she said her cut was just okay, and ‘I’ll direct you next me.’ I told her if the cut was just okay, and she was going to have to go through all that trouble of direc ng me, it would probably be best for both of us if she found another salon.”

Other client disasters: One of Santy’s clients insisted he change his schedule around to be available for her big events, but “flipped out” on him when he had to move one appointment because of a last-minute schedule change at a photo shoot he was involved in. Another longterm client was ini ally fine with having to see another stylist when Santy was traveling, but then refused to pay for

the cut a erward. “She made a scene at the front desk and embarrassed everyone,“ says Santy. “No one knew what to do.” Santy notes that these three incidents have been the only mes he’s had to “break up” with a client in his 35year career. “I pride myself on handling people well,” he says. “I would never want a new stylist to think problema c clients are the norm.”

The occasional client may disregard or abuse the rules of the salon—like Michelle Smith’s chronic no-show at Rejuve Salon Spa in Raleigh, North Carolina. “We have a 24-hour cancellaon policy and there was a customer who would call in to cancel just a few hours before her appointment each me,” Smith says. “I had asked her to pay the full service amount for a color and highlight appointment, and told her I couldn’t have her as a client if she didn’t pay. I was pregnant, and I’d had an assistant come in to help me for that appointment, so it was a big deal. She refused, and for that reason, I had to let her go as a client. She was the owner of a local modeling agency, and I liked her as a person, but ul mately it doesn’t ma er who they are. I can’t tolerate that in my business.”

Terry Folawn describes a client break up as “the ugly part. It ranks up there with firing a staff member.” The best advice in any situa on? “Keep it short, keep it simple, and don’t make it personal.” Folawn does just that with the few clients who’ve grabbed a therapist during a massage or made inappropriate comments to the young female spa techs. She simply asks them not to come back, and she does it with confidence. “I’ve learned that I can refuse someone’s business and be comfortable doing so. Because my staff’s job is to service the clients, but my job is to protect my staff.” modernsalon.com fall 2010 firstchair.com 57

FirstConversations

I

t’s never too early to bring up addional treatments and products that you or your salon can provide. But target your conversa on to each individual client, recommends Dodge of Caruh Salon Spa. “At the consulta on, take into account the whole person and her en re look,” she says. Remember, it’s your professional duty to help everyone who sits in your chair look their best.

“At our salon, we don’t consider our job complete un l we offer all the services that would enhance a client’s look,” says Dodge. “It’s a habit for us.”

Dodge advises that cu ng specialists recommend specific color specialists to their clients, and vice versa. Generalists who both cut and color can describe how one service would complement the other. For example, says Dodge, “you can talk about how the shape of the hair is suited to a color service, or how color would enhance facial features.”

Most clients understand cut and color, but if your salon offers new and innova ve services they haven’t yet heard about, you’ll have to be par cularly proac ve. Benede o suggests introducing kera n services, which add kera n back into the hair for more shine and less frizz, to the appropriate clients through a few simple ques ons: “How do you feel about your hair?” Or more specifically, “How do you feel about your ends?”

When the client asks ques ons, it’s important to always answer with the benefits of the product in mind, says Benede o, not just the features of the product.

58 firstchair.com fall 2010 modernsalon.com

*

Describe how the product or service will improve their hair and which types of a er-care products to use. Before the conversa on concludes, be sure to men on, “We should book the appointment before you leave today,” and accompany her to the front desk to do so.

Signage at your sta on will help break the ice about new products and services. S ck with concise, a en onge ng copy, such as: “How would you like your hair to be smoother, shinier and less frizzy for up to five months?

Ask your stylist how.” To take it a step further, Benede o suggests brainstorming crea ve promo ons, such as a “Simply Smooth” event where staff members could talk up the benefits of a hair taming system while serving up smoothies.

The Spa at Folawn’s harnesses the power of the web to cross-promote the full spa menu as well as its salon counterpart. “We e-mail last-minute appointments every Monday to clients who sign up on the website or at the salon,” reports Folawn. “Our hair clients will see the availability for manicures or pedicures and be able to try it out for a percentage off.”

To further encourage crossover clients, Folawn invites her spa and salon staff to partner up. The stylists s ll have full books despite the downturn in the economy, but a new massage therapist may need a boost. The spa-salon partnerships let the two beauty pros perform their expert services on one another, and then describe or show off the results to their clients and make genuine recommenda ons on each other’s behalf. The strategy has been an undeniable success: “The partnerships help our guests understand our services,” says Folawn, “and it also builds camaraderie amongst the staff.”

*

TThe h bi h currently tl att A l d SSalon l and d SSpa are ffor big push Accolades hair straightening treatments and their 30-minute blow-dry service for $30. “Everyone is straightening their hair now,” says Schlaeger. His stylists capitalize on that trend by posioning either service as a foolproof way to look great. “We say, if you are going on a first date, or if you have a business mee ng, we’ll give you glossy straight runway hair, and you don’t have to spend 15 minutes fussing with it.” Clearly, that’s struck a chord with clients, and helps keep produc vity at 90 percent.

Other cross-promo on ideas from our experts? Give tours of the en re facility to new clients so you can talk up the spa or nail area, color bar, retail displays or any musttry signature service; suggest an express manicure or facial while color is processing; promote the latest and greatest treatments and products on your salon’s Twi er or Facebook page; throw a launch party for new retail lines or services to educate guests in a fun way; print up promo onal take-home cards so your clientele will have an at-their-finger ps reminder of all you offer; create service packages that include a er-care retail products for a can’t-pass-up deal (not to men on, results that last longer!).

*

“At the consultation, take into account the whole person and her entire look.”

modernsalon.com fall 2010 firstchair.com 59

“You can’t make everyone you come in contact with happy. It’s not possible.”

FirstConversations

I

t’s tough to give a guest your me, energy and exper se, just to find out later that she’s used box color at home—or even visited another stylist. But client “chea ng,” which has happened to everyy beauty proad thing. fessional, is not always a bad xperiIn fact, it can be a learning experience, says Santy. “It’s a wayy for re you to find out that you’re not pushing the right buttons with the client.”

Most salons today encourage their guests to try different stylists or spa techs, since their en re staff is considered to be working as a team. Client-sharing has always been an ingrained part of the culture at Caruh Salon Spa, and Dodge credits it with long-term client reten-on on. “Clients leave a salon mfortwhen they don’t feel comforters,” she able trying different providers,” m switching says. “We don’t mind them der one roof.” providers as long as it is under What if you end up losing a client for good? It’s

nothing to be ashamed about, insists Santy. “You can’t make everyone you come in contact with happy. It’s not possible.”

And some mes it’s not even about you. According to a stas c he cites, two out of 10 clients leave stylists for personal reasons and through no fault of the provider.

If a client con nues to come in for a professional service— but DIYs it at home for another—you’ll want to address it gently. To discourage something like box color, for example, Santy suggests performing a free color service. While the client is in the chair, offer it this way: “The next me you need color, I’ll do it for free and rebook you for another appoint-

60 firstchair.com fall 2010 modernsalon.com

ment. If you like it, you’ll come back aand pay for the next o one.” If you have the rig right abili es, he says, they they’ll likely get hooked on tthe professional results th they get with you.

The b best strategy to prevent clients from “chea ng” in the first place? Staying current on your con nuing edu educa on. “I always try to keep my skills up to date so that when

a client is in my chair, I know they’re ge ng the best of me,” concurs Rabig of Salon 37 & Day Spa. Not only is stylist education critical, but client education is becoming ever more important as well.

“We all need to become better at offering a higher level of home styling maintenance education,” says Dodge. “We need to tell clients how to do their hair at home—starting at consultation and talking about it behind the chair—so they can love their hair all the time.” A client who loves their hair will be a client for life.

Y

ou might not be aware of the value of prebooking. “It is proven staƟsƟcally that if you get your guests to prebook every five weeks, you will see them at least two Ɵmes more per year, increasing your revenue,” says Global KeraƟn’s BenedeƩo.

“MulƟply that by 40 services per week, and the added revenue is

help you manage your lifestyle by booking your next appointment today—this way it’s one less thing for you to do in your hecƟc schedule.” Don’t forget to reassure clients they will get a reminder phone call two days before the appointment, and that they can always change the day or Ɵme if the need arises.

Dodge, who has a prebook rate

year on them, and at the boƩom of the page we note the dates we’re closed,” she says. “We ask our service providers to put their vacaƟon Ɵme in six weeks in advance so they know they’ll be around for the Ɵme they’re asking to see their clients again.”

Geƫng specific on Ɵming increases the odds of a successful prebook. “We state the actual date

extremely lucraƟve.” Not only that, but prebooking means more consistency in your schedule, making it easier to plan your week and reduce scrambling to fill last-minute gaps.

BenedeƩo suggests a 65 percent prebooking goal, more than double the naƟonal average of about 30 percent. The secret to boosƟng your own average? PosiƟon prebooking as a convenience that will save Ɵme and headaches. th Here’s how BenedeƩo phrases He it:: “Since you are so busy, let me it

of over 90 percent, books out clients while they are sƟll in her chair. “It’s a conversaƟon that has to happen in a consultaƟon,” she says, poinƟng out that whatever it is you determine to do during the consultaƟon, you’ll need to make sure the client is available to come back for her follow-up appointments. re e During processing, Dodge recommits her clients by bringing nd a them an appointment card aand calen nda d r salon calendar. “We have calendars nƟre re that we’ve made with the enƟ

that we’d like the client to come back,” says Dodge. “So we’d say, ‘I’d like to see you October 9’ instead of just ‘four to six weeks,’ which we think makes it more concrete.”

Though it can be tricky to nail down your busy clientele, never look at prebooking as a burden, warns Dodge. “Prebooking is building trust with that client,” she says. “You’re commiƫng to keeping up the work you’ve done at that appointment. Not prebooking is the biggest mistake you can make.”

FirstConversations

â&#x20AC;&#x153;The last thing we want to do is tell a client it looks 62 firstchair.com fall 2010 modernsalon.com

N

o one likes to talk about it—but it happens!

Whether it’s a cut gone awry, an all-wrong texture treatment or a minor spa snafu, our experts agree the best way to handle a mistake is to just own up to it. “The last thing we want to do is tell a client it looks good when it clearly doesn’t,” says Graffeo of Indra Salon & City Spa. “Guests tend to appreciate our honesty and it makes them more open to working with us in the future.”

A er you acknowledge your mistake, apologize to the client and do your best to make her feel comfortable while you a empt to fix whatever went wrong, certain says Dodge. If it’s a serious issue, or you’re uncertain of how to address the situa on, bring in your manager.

Ask the client, “How can we make this better?” Most salons will offer service redo’s free of charge with the same stylist; Caruh also lets the client opt for a more senior provider the second time around, if she prefers. At the re-do, the consultation is more important than ever as the stylist makes a conscious effort to catch whatever it was that was miscommunicated or overlooked the first time. “When we humble ourselves and really listen, these clients feel so cared for that they become our most loyal.”

No place has more poten al for mistakes or accidents than a spa, acknowledges Folawn. “Waxing is the classic,” she reports.

“Someone will take too much hair off or drip wax on the client’s clothes. Once the wax pot pped over and got all over the bed and all over the client!” In many cases, there aren’t any easy fixes. “If it’s that too much hair has been taken off, you just have to wait for it to grow back,” she says. “For a surface burn, if the client wants to see her doctor, we’ll let her know we will pick up the tab for that.” The client will not be charged—and they’ll get a gi cer ficate to come back again for the same service, which they can choose to redeem with a different spa tech or even give to a friend.

Of course, always being conscious of your client’s desires and expecta ons and of your own surroundings will help you work more effec vely and safely. But mistakes can’t be avoided en rely…they happen to the best of us. And that’s how you grow, declares Dodge.

“We believe there are no mistakes, only opportuni es to make it right and build a life me of trust with a client.” Now, that’s a lesson worth learning.

good when it clearly doesn’t.” modernsalon.com fall 2010 firstchair.com 63

SignatureStyle

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SMASHIN’

FASHION! >> E

mpire Beauty School in Manhattan sponsored the KatWalk Katerers launch party at the Katra Lounge in New York City, with Empire students providing hair and makeup services for models and staff. Empire has an ongoing partnership with KatWalk Katerers, a talent management and events planning agency, that allows students to provide beauty services for the agency’s fashion shows and photo shoots.

FROM LEFT Co-founder and President of KatWalk Katerers Dhylles Waight, Empire Manhattan Salon Manager Jared Matthews, Empire Manhattan Makeup Educator LaSonya Gunter, Empire Manhattan Academic Manager Candice Jackson, Keith Ervin of Swerv Entertainment, and Co-founder and CEO of KatWalk Katerers Dennis Davis.

FIFTIECSK

FLASHBA

l introduced and ice cream socia A 50’s fashion show pire Beauty Em na izo Tucson, Ar new students to the after every ve a special event School. “We try to ha said me new students,” orientation to welco ery. om ntg ialist Rebecca Mo Career Planning Spec

HF OME RUN! or the second year in a row, Empire Beauty School students from four Minnesota schools lent their talent and services to a series of four Wine, Women and Baseball events hosted by the Minnesota Twins prior to games. Attendees are women who come out to the ballpark to sample appetizers, indulge in wine tasting, and enjoy services from students of Empire’s Bloomington, Eden Prairie, Spring Lake Park and St. Paul locations.

Empire Career Planning Specialist Tamara Ceman organized the event. Students offered hair styling, mini manicures and face painting—guests could choose between the Twins logo or get their favorite player’s number painted on their face. The women that visited the booth also received a small gift bag

LEFT Attendees eagerly await manicures and hair styling from Empire cosmetology students at the fifth annual Wine, Women and Baseball event in Minneapolis. RIGHT Empire students also offered face painting, and complimentary gift bags for attendees.

which included an Empire nail file, an Empire purse mirror and a free haircut card. To participate, students needed to earn 90% or higher in attendance.

“We saw some familiar faces from last year who asked once again, ‘Will you be here every year? We just love getting pampered before the games!”’ noted Empire Regional Director Julie Marques.

special EMPIRE edition: fall/winter 2010 empire.edu e-05

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CULTURE

By Dr. Carl Bridges, Senior Vice President of Education & Chief Academic Officer

I

f you think about any personal or professional relationship you have been in, the first major disagreement you have in that relationship is usually centered around culture.

What do I mean?

I thought you’d never ask.

Dave and Emma were from two different worlds.

He was a traditional, conservative Baptist minister’s son. She was an open-minded, Italian Catholic school girl. But as luck would have it, they met, fell in love and married in the summer of 1930 on a beautiful June day. The honeymoon was beautiful... it lasted until December–until of course they had their first major fight.

Christmas.

Yes, Christmas. As the holiday approached, Dave was planning to have a ham on Christmas Eve and open the presents on that day. Emma was planning the traditional Italian holiday meal of calamari with presents on Christmas day. The battle lines were drawn, and the war began.

“We open presents on Christmas Eve, and we do not eat sea urchins for the Christmas meal!”

“Who opens presents on Christmas Eve? Christmas is on December 25th, and that is when I will open gifts. And by the way calamari are not sea urchins— you are!”

Doors slammed, silent treatments, nasty glares...

Love was in the air.

Until they realized they were being silly. Until they realized that their goals were the same, to have a wonderful first Christmas together. And so they decided to create their culture. To make “his” world and “her” world— “their world.” They did it with compromise, respect, and admiration.

So on their first Christmas together, Dave and Emma enjoyed a new taste sensation... calamari stuffed ham. And they opened presents on both days.

She got him a gold watch, cologne, and a beautiful silk shirt. He got her a waffle iron, a skillet, and mixing bowls.

She knew then that the honeymoon was definitely over.

What is your campus culture? And what have you done to create a culture that addresses all the needs, demands of, and demands upon the members of your culture? One of the ways we communicate to our students is through our culture. And what does your culture say about your institution? Because the reality is (should be) that we all have the same goal—student success.

I know it is a cliché, but united we stand, divided we fall—create a strong culture and it benefits all!

UNTIL WE MEET AGAIN

Dr. Carl Bridges Dave & Emma’s Little Big Boy e-06 special EMPIRE edition: fall/winter 2010 empire.edu

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GOOD WORKS

EMPIRE STUDENTS WALK FOR AIDS tan Empire Beauty School The Manhattici pated in the 25th Annual

students par raised $2,331 AIDS Walk New York, and students walked uty bea for the event. The Park and were tral Cen ul utif bea und aro ughout their treated to refreshments thro inst AIDS. aga trek supporting the fight you! You nk tha and ons lati “Congratu in our er lead true are an example of a inst AIDS. mittee. aga ght fi the in and ity of the AIDS Walk NY com commun k,” noted a representative wor of walkers. d har nds r usa you tho all of for s l We are so gratefu has grown to over ten and ters por sup 00 organizations 6,0 area just h ated to GMHC and other The event originated wit ,610, with the funds don 717 $5, ed rais e hav kers To date, the wal the fight against AIDS. committed to supporting

STUDENTS RAISE SCHOLARSHIP MONEY IN HONOR OF CRASH VICTIM

Students at Empire’s Pottsville, PA campus raised more

than $1,000 in memory of John Robert Anczarski, a local man killed while cycling cross country as part of a breast cancer fundraiser.

“This is a tragedy that hit our school hard,” says Theresa Andrews, an educator at Empire. “One of our students is John’s cousin, so we immediately LEFT TO RIGHT Mary Ann Batz, Executive Director, Lindsey Sheeler, Student, felt compelled to help in some way.”

Theresa Andrews, Educator, all from Empire’s Pottsville, PA campus.

The money will go toward a scholarship at North Schuylkill High School in Anczarski’s name.

The 19-year-old was laid to rest in June after dying from injuries sustained after a vehicle struck him on a road in New Laguna, New Mexico. Anczarski was riding as part of “The Pink Pedal,” a team of four young men raising money to fight breast cancer.

Lindsey Sheeler says her cousin would have been proud of the work her fellow Empire students are doing.

“He was an amazing person,” said Sheeler. “Knowing that my school was willing to help our family through this terrible ordeal was so relieving.”

The students raised money through bake sales and reached out to local businesses and the community for donations.

“We were able to raise more than $1,150. It has been an amazing experience for our students to do something kind for a grieving classmate and give back to the community,” said Andrews.

special EMPIRE edition: fall/winter 2010 empire.edu e-07

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CCEEMSPSIRE! SU WITH An Alum Shares Her Story Right after high school I went to college to study

Physical Therapy. My parents were convinced I needed a 4-year degree to be successful in life. After a year of barely making it to classes and dreading every school day, I decided I wanted to go in a different direction. I loved the artistry and flexibility cosmetology had to offer.

I researched several schools, but decided on Empire Beauty School, based on their strong connections within the industry.

Within two weeks of my first day, my parents noticed a complete change in my outlook. I never missed a class at Empire, and was even nominated for Student of the Year! I had a job as a stylist at a salon as soon as I got my license, and even went back to school to get my teaching license. It wasn’t long after that I bought an old, foreclosed building, renovated it, and opened my own salon.

Now, just three years after graduating, I have a full client schedule, and am making a great living doing what I love! Many of my friends who have recently graduated with a 4-year degree are still searching for work while I own my own business and make my own hours.

Before enrolling at Empire, I had no idea how many great opportunities there are in this field! My only regret is not starting sooner! I am proud to be an Empire Graduate!

Jade McMullen OWNER, J.E.M. HAIR DESIGNS, Hometown, PA

WWW.EMPIRE.EDU e-08 special EMPIRE edition: fall/winter 2010 empire.edu

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10/7/10 4:59 PM

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