I S S U E 4
BROUGHT TO YOU BY THEABIC.ORG.AU
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SECURE JOBS BETTER PAY
APPLYING FOR THE JOB EVEN IF YOU’RE NOT THE STAND-OUT CANDIDATE
How to gain back confidence and apply for jobs, even if you're not meeting the essential criteria
THE POWER OF LIGHT THERAPY Why the slow deterioration of the fibroblast can lead to alterations in texture and colour of the dermis NO DIAMONDS NO PRESSURE ABIC || Issue 4 03
As 2022 comes to an end, I wanted to thank you for your support of ABIC throughout what has been a turbulent, challenging but ultimately successful year
It is through the Association that we as an industry, have united to achieve advancements across our diverse industry.
Thanks to your support we now have over 1000 members making us the largest peak body association representing our industry
The ABIC Facilitator team, CEO and Council have worked tirelessly to position ABIC to change the trajectory of our industry. We have successfully created a strong voice for the industry through broad industry consultation, and we have an opportunity to set expectations and guide policy at a parliamentary level, benchmark our industry and pave the way to ensure that your voice becomes part of the industry voice that represents our association at various events throughout the year.
2022 has been exceptional for establishing relationships and enhancing respect We now have a seat at the table at all industry events which has ensured beauty and aesthetics has a greater level of awareness in the personal services space, and our industry has an expert body for guidance, working together for the betterment of industry. It’s truly rewarding and impactful being able to help you. Recently, Beauty Therapy has been added to the skills priority list which is another huge win for attracting and retaining talent in our industry
Thank you to the many members that have provided feedback – we truly appreciate your comments and encouragement The annual review process of the ABIC has now commenced which will include feedback already provided and further input from member and market research activity. With the support of our Foundation and Supplier Members we will ensure 2023 is bigger and better than ever. We are particularly excited about stewarding the future of our industry through our High School Student Programme.
from the chair.R E I K A R O B E R T S @ R E I K A R O B E R T S
Thank you again for being part of our association. We are so pleased to now be enjoying the magic of the Christmas season but look forward to the challenges that 2023 will bring
SECURE JOBSBETTER PAY
The Federal Government’s Secure Jobs, Better Pay Bill has successfully passed through the Senate.
Therapists and employees will be the big winners of a deal that paves the way for Labor's signature industrial relations laws to pass parliament recently.
David Pococks agreeance to back the workplace legislation overhaul and enshrine multi-employer bargaining means that the bill should see stagnant wages rise. In other words, the confidentiality clause that was stated in most employee contracts will no longer exist, and employees can now discuss salaries at their discretion.
The Act has been amended to strengthen the right to request flexible working arrangements to assist eligible employees to negotiate workplace flexibilities that suit both them and their employer
What do the changes include?
A number of changes have been made to the bargaining framework, aimed at making bargaining more accessible and attractive for both employees and employers
Small businesses with fewer than 20 employees will be excluded from single-interest multienterprise bargaining, a great inclusion for small to medium beauty businesses.
Businesses with fewer than 50 employees will have extra safeguards if they want to opt out of multi-employer bargaining, while the minimum bargaining period will also be increased from six to nine months.
Senator Pocock adds that 'this is a great outcome and really strikes the right balance to get wages moving for those who need it but also to have some really important safeguards in place, particularly for small businesses,"
In recognition that small businesses may not have the same capacity as larger employers to accommodate these requests, the legislation clarifies that the specific circumstances of the employer, including the size and nature of the employer’s business, are relevant when considering whether the employer has reasonable business grounds for refusing a request.
That being said, in good news for Business Owners, the Government has committed $7.9 million over four years to expand the Fair Work Commission’s capacity to proactively assist small businesses to negotiate agreements with their employees.
These changes will come into effect on 6 June 2023 (or an earlier date to be fixed by proclamation, in the case of the bargaining changes)
For more information on the Secure Jobs, Better Pay package visit: www.dewr.gov.au/workplacerelations.
PROFESSOR FIRAS AL-NIAIMI'S CANDELA WORKSHOP exclusive
presentation at Melbourne's
Last month ABIC attended an event in Melbourne hosted by Candela, featuring the renowned Professor Firas Al-Niaimi from London, who came to Australia for a roadshow of Candela workshops that focused on all things skin rejuvenation and scar treatment
Professor Firas Al-Niaimi outlined how he achieved his acclaimed results using his following ‘go-to’ Candela devices:
PicoWay® - a high power, ultra-short pulse, photoacoustic laser used to treat acne scars, wrinkles, pigmentation and tattoo removals
Nordlys™ - an IPL device that combines non-ablative factional treatment and YAG It is used to treat skin rejuvenation, hair removal and fractional superficial tissue remodelling, alongside capillaries, vascular lesions and port wine stains.
Vbeam® - a pulsed-dye laser technology used to treat conditions including rosacea, red cheeks, facial flushing, broken capillaries, vascular scars and stretch marks
According to Prof Firas Al-Niaimi, there are multiple paths when it comes to skin rejuvenation and removing or reducing scars At this popular workshop, Professor Al-Niaimi demonstrated, through his clinically proven approach, the use of multiple modalities to achieve optimal results for a variety of skin conditions
He described what he calls the ‘3 C’s’ - where the focus for all treatments is to: “Rejuvenate the skin and activate Cytokine release, Cell Signalling and Collagen remodelling.”
Professor Al-Niaimi believes that in today’s aesthetic profession, everyone approaches dermatology differently, achieving varying results with their unique methods He firmly believes that knowledge-share and experience in the industry are vital, and really enjoys sharing with others how they too can achieve his world-leading results.
In Professor Al-Niaimi's experience, the Nordlys™system provides a high return on investment for its fractional non-ablative resurfacing capabilities and is quickly becoming a go-to platform for new and existing aesthetic practices He discussed the fact that, in contrast to other IPL technology, its narrower wavelength bands enable the treatment of photodamaged skin by using less than half the fluence and requiring no active cooling.
For vascular conditions and scars, Professor Al-Niaimi explained that he has had excellent results with the Vbeam® device, though he suggests choosing an appropriate wavelength, depending on the size of the area treated, which also determines the pulse width and the correct selection of the appropriate fluence.
the skin and activate Cytokine release, Cell Signalling and Collagen remodelling.”
- Professor Firas
A big takeaway line of advice from the workshops was that Professor Al-Niaimi believes that his treatments are “most successful when used in combination with topicals and skin boosters ” He explained that the use of skin boosters or bio-remodelling injectables meant that “the skin’s hydration levels were enhanced, optimising the results to achieving healthy, radiant skin for patients.”
You can watch register to watch a replay of a recent webinar by Professor Firas for Candela here: https://marketing candelamedical com/ANZ-WB-2020-03-25-Firas-Webinar Webinar-on-demand html
Professor Firas Al-Niaimi, MD
Professor Firas Al-Niaimi, MD is a highly experienced and respected consultant dermatologist with nearly 20 years of medical experience He trained in some of the UK’s top hospitals, including in Manchester, the largest dermatology department in Europe and the world-renowned St. John’s Institute of Dermatology at St Thomas’ hospital in London Here, he completed a prestigious laser and Mohs surgical fellowship and continued to work as an honorary consultant for several years
Professor Firas Al-Niaimi has published more than 230 scientific publications in medical journals, 10 book chapters, including his own book, as well as more than 500 scientific lectures that he has personally delivered across 58 countries around the globe.
In addition to his busy private practice in London,he is involved in academic research and international teaching and training of doctors and has trained over a thousand doctors around the world in advanced laser treatments Professor Firas Al-Niaimi was awarded the Global Excellence Award for the title consultant dermatologist of the year twice in 2019 and 2022 for his services and commitment to dermatology and the laser field.
For more information, visit candelamedical.com
THEPOWEROF LIGHT THERAPYWords by Sarah Hughes, Mediclinic Training Manager for the International Dermal Institute and Dermalogica
LLight emitting diode has been used in skin clinics for several years; however, LED was first discovered in 1962 This technology was originally developed by NASA, to grow plant life forms during shuttle experiments but was later discovered to have the potential for accelerating wound healing of the skin.
This low energy, non-ablative device emits an exact wavelength into the skin to stimulate and energise cellular activity. In fact, a study by NASA and the US Navy found that wavelengths of 600nm to 670nm improved wound healing by 50% and increased fibroblast activity by 155%!
LED therapy uses the visible light spectrum to have varying impacts on the skin and its conditions. Red and blue light seem to be the most popular, with red light being able to activate cells and utilise energy to stimulate the skins mitochondria in a manner similar to photo synthesis (the process of taking light and converting to food energy as plants do).
Mitochondria are specialised structures in the cells that function primarily like powerhouses to generate cellular energy.
Mitochondria, using oxygen convert the energy from food into a usable form of energy - Adenosine triphosphate or ATP Fibroblast cells use ATP to produce important skin structures such as collagen, elastin which contribute to a healthy-looking skin. In theory, more collagen means that skin will look smoother and fuller with less fine lines and wrinkles. Red LED light is also thought to reduce inflammation while improving circulation, which can give skin a healthier glow.
Blue LED light is generally used for the treatment of acne, and it can be used after extractions as an antiinflammatory and anti-bacterial agent. Studies have shown a 76%-80% improvement in acne by slowing sebaceous activity and neutralising bacteria. Applications of blue light for 3 consecutive days are proven to reduce acne by 99 99% Blue light has shown to increase skin hydration.
Unlike other types of light therapy, LEDs do not contain ultraviolet rays. Therefore, they’re safe for regular use
Intense Pulsed Light (IPL) uses visible broadspectrum light wavelengths to target hyperpigmentation, redness, dilated capillaries and minimise fine lines and wrinkles beneath the skin’s surface IPL uses light energy to target a certain chromophore or colour in the skin
IPL energy penetrates the epidermis and gently heats the dermis creating a wound response, producing new collagen helping to firm the skin. IPL penetrates down to the dermis without harming the epidermis causing less damage to your skin than other devices.
Light therapies have been shown to be effective in the treatment of varying skin concerns, however, when they are used in conjunction with innovative, advanced ingredients, they work synergistically to amplify the treatment results.
Combining light therapies and ingredients helps in supporting the skin’s energy production and repair processes to smooth skin texture, lines, and wrinkles faster than light therapy alone
There are some ground-breaking active ingredients that can work to enhance the benefits of light therapies which improve the skin include:
Lindera root extract, rich in oligo-alpha-glucan which contributes to the synthesis of ATP, collagen and elastin improving skin`s elasticity, smoothness, and radiance It also presents antioxidant properties that helps to neutralise free radicals
Olive leaf extract is rich in specialised phospholipids that help to recharge and revitalise mitochondria increasing production of collagen and elastin This will minimise fine lines and wrinkles appearance and improve skin firmness
A blend of brown algae extract, magnesium aspartate and ATP helps to boost skin`s energy resulting in an enhanced skin texture
Palmitoyl L-D-L peptide helps to stimulate collagen I, II and IV as well as hyaluronic acid production to help diminish the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.
Hibiscus fruit extract extracted from an Australian Wild Rosella and rich in betaine, promotes immediate and long lasting moisturisation.
Biosaccharide Gum-1 which is a high molecular weight polysaccharide that has antiinflammatory properties and works fast to calm and soothe the skin
Independent clinical trials have been conducted using red light therapy and a combination of lindera root extract, olive leaf extract and brown algae extract. The study showed that when these elements are combined with red LED therapy, they boost treatment results, demonstrating a significant improvement in ATP, collagen, and elastin production.
• The fibroblasts were extracted from the skin and put on specific lab plates to be used in this test
• The product containing the three actives was applied on certain test subjects.
• The test subjects were treated with a red LED device with and without actives for a period of 15-30 minutes
• ATP, collagen, and elastin production was assessed.
• After treatment, the test showed significantly more production of ATP, collagen, and elastin when LED was used with ingredients versus LED alone.
These trials indicate that combining red LED with these innovative cutting-edge ingredients has the potential to generate significant clinic results for all skin concerns. *
* Trials were conducted by R&D at Unilever, Los Angeles, USA, using a culture of fibroblast cells, with one application with and without the product but both with LED light
with industry-specific marketing strategies
For skin clinics and beauty salons the industry demands solutions that are unique to their market. As Australia’s only agency specialising in client retention marketing strategies for the aesthetics industry, no one understands the distinct challenges better than Vanessa McDonald from the Salon Marketing Creative (SMC) Agency.
SMC has developed, implemented and tested a range of successful promotional and marketing strategies that have been designed specifically for the industry. With over 20 years in the beauty industry, Vanessa McDonald founded SMC in 2016, a full-service marketing agency specialising to help beauty salons both retain clients and grow their businesses by increasing skin treatments and retail sales.
Vanessa McDonald understands the beauty industry, understands your treatments, and knows how to make the most from your database. There's no doubt that marketing can feel overwhelming, it's why Vanessa McDonald started SMC Agency. It's also why outsourcing and taking the marketing component off a salon owner’s ‘To Do List’ is crucial if like most clinicians, you don't understand or have the time to successfully market your business
Client Retention Strategies
While attracting new clients is one path to commercial success, research and evidence reveal that retaining existing clients is far easier and less costly, reaping rewards for both your brand and bottom line
Between 65-75% of a salon's business is derived from existing customers. Acquiring new clients is both timeconsuming and costly compared to leveraging your existing database It costs a up to seven to eight times more to gain a new client compared to retaining a client. Add to that, existing clients are easier to connect with and are far more likely to refer family and friends to your salon or clinic.
According to SMC’s Vanessa McDonald, the secret to growing any business in the aesthetics industry is achieved by increasing the frequency of visits of your existing clients by just two extra visits per year By achieving this modest goal, you can increase revenue by up to 30-35% each year
Addressing the “Leaky Bucket” Syndrome
According to SMC’s Vanessa McDonald, most salons only retain a mere 27% or less of their new clients if they operate without a retention strategy. This untapped percentage represents a massive opportunity for salon and clinic owners to leverage their existing client base to increase retention rates and ultimately their bottom line.
There are several KPIs recommended to embrace a client retention program. These include:
Calculating how many new clients you attracted in the last 12-months Measuring how many new clients came back for a second visit Knowing the percentage of your new clients who didn't return for a second visit
The real opportunity for potential revenue growth is considering how many new clients did not return for a second visit. Then, if you and your team work towards retaining 25% of those lost clients for the next 12 months you would see a quantifiable difference to your business by any measure
Strategies to Retain New Clients
Other strategies that SMC recommends to help you when it comes to retaining new clients – especially from their first visit, include offering a gift card for your new clients to redeem on their next visit This is typically a free skin service such as an LED Session with skin consultation and prescription timebooked with any other treatment Your new client is much more likely to book a second appointment with the inducement of an additional free treatment.
For some salons offering a new client a retail gift to help them kick-start their at-home skin care routine can also work well when it comes to building loyalty. This skincare gift can result in a more bonding “skin journey” that will be closely linked to your salon Importantly, SMC recommends that these offers should be tied to re-booking their second appointment within a limited time frame.
Another finding by the SMC Agency gained from both experience and research is that best time to ask a client for a referral is after the first appointment. Often the client is the most excited at this stage about their treatment results –and finding a new clinic. The new client will often leave the clinic and talk about their new experience with their family and friends. You can build on this by giving your client a voucher to pass on to a family member, friend or work colleague.
SMC Agency has recently introduced their New Client Experience Package for clinics and salons who are looking for an easy to implement marketing package, specifically designed for the aesthetic industry The New Client Experience Package offers a 10% savings when you opt to pay upfront, and as a special offer, ABIC Community Members & Beaute readers can use the discount code ABIC30 to save a further 30% bringing the cost down to $371 70
USE DISCOUNT CODE: ABIC30
Plus, a Beaute Bonus: Beaute readers and ABIC community members who purchase The New Client Experience Package will also receive a free Client Retention Marketing Consultation with Vanessa McDonald valued at $250 in addition to the 30% off exclusive discount.
Learn more about SMC’s New Client Experience Package here: https://www.smcagency.com.au/new-client-exp-package
For more information about how to grow through with proven client retention marketing strategies that are specific to beauty salons and skin clinics, visit: https://www.smcagency.com.au
Applying for the job even if
not the stand-out candidateWords by Keira Maloney
Many things can contribute to this lack of confidence. Perhaps you had worked for an employer that didn’t provide quality or constructive feedback in the past, or even put you down. You may have been knocked back on a previous job application, or feel shame in losing the last job you worked in.
In the current recruitment market within the hair and beauty industries, it’s very important that candidates know –employers need you more than ever
Where there was previously an abundance of candidate applications on a job advertisement, there is now a lack of applications, and employers are revisiting what is important when it comes to finding people for their business.
We ran a poll recently on the Beaute by ABIC community, asking what was most important to a business owner when they are recruiting, and the landslide response was hands down – culture fit was most important
This means that while a job advertisement may outline specific skills as a requirement, they would actually take you on purely based on things like your personality, or work ethic.
At Headhunter Recruitment, we run comprehensive job ad consultations to gather information and write quality job advertisements on behalf of time -poor business owners When we ask about their ‘ideal candidate’ they almost always outline 2 simple things – A qualification, but more importantly, ideal personality traits Rarely, would they list any treatment skills as their essential criteria.
Candidate confidence can be at an all-time-low in the job searching process. With many job advertisements outlining a lengthy candidate criteria for the position they are recruiting for, it’s very easy to rule yourself out of the job because you don’t meet 100% of what are outlined as ‘essential’ skills.
Yet, the mistake that many business owners make when writing their job advertisements is outline specific treatments as skill requirements, often ruling out applications from underqualified, but quality candidates
We’re here to let you know though, if you connect to what that business is offering, but you don’t meet the skills criteria – apply anyway It may go outside the bounds of your comfort zone, or you may instinctively feel as though you’re setting yourself up for failure but if you follow the below, you may just land yourself an interview!
Ensure your resume is professionally presented and well-formatted
Where you may lack in skillset, a professionally presented resume can easily communicate a strong attention to detail, a valuable skill in the beauty and aesthetic industry
2.Ensure your relevant education and training, and any relevant practical experience is listed at the top of your CV
Even if your experience only lies in a student salon setting, make sure this is outlined. Having experience at your local café may be important but a resume that mainly reflects training or experience within the industry you would like to work in will make an immediate impression on the reader.
3 Write a personalised coverletter
You may be lacking in practical skills, but highlight where you make up for it As written above, business owners value culture fit above all else so make your cover letter a spotlight on things like your passion, work ethic, attention to detail, and punctuality!
Are you actively job seeking or open to hearing about new opportunities? Register with HeadHunter Recruitment to stay up to date on positions within the Beauty and Aesthetic industry at www.headhunter.org.au
THE MARRIAGE OF SPORT + BEAUTY
The term ‘athleisure’ has become embedded in the fashion vocabulary of late With the global athleisure market estimated to reach $517bn by 2025, opportunities for beauty brands and businesses to get involved are huge So, it’s no surprise that ‘ath-beauty’ is a category on the rise - here’s how it’s evolving and how you can ride the wave
The fashion industry calls out tracksuits, bomber jackets and runners are a must-have staple item in your wardrobe, and tracks the evolution of athleisure for apparel.
Merging wellness into the sports arena makes for good press and suddenly working out (while wearing an expensive pair of LuluLemon leggings) has never felt more on trend Athleisure reaches peak mass market as brands across the globe embrace the wellness lifestyle. Think green smoothies, juice detoxes and pilates franchises on every corner.
‘ath-beauty’ is a category on the rise it’s evolving you can ride the wave
W OW WO
WGSNʼs Active Beauty report in 2016 was the first to track the emergence of ath-beauty, highlighting the start of this new fitness and beauty category with a focus on prolonging the ʻworkout glowʼ, inner wellness, and sweat-proof make-up To us therapists with some skin in the game, this we’ve known but never truly shouted about to our clients - here activewear brands start doing it for us
The term ʻath-beautyʼ is coined, and forecasts the evolution of the trend into products that place a greater emphasis on the body and brain, and cater to the rise of outdoor activities SPF starts to become the cool staple item in everyone's bathroom cupboard, while beauty businesses start to invest in workout-like med aesthetic equipment such as LED lights and Radio Frequency.
Early adopter product ranges include brands that cater to the gym-goer, offering products in gymfriendly sizes and sustainable packaging Note Dermalogica’s protection 50 sport spf50 and Face Gym’s Training Stick which features motion-activated ingredients2019
Around the globe, we track the evolution of the trend through media, highlighting brands such as Lululemon, Clarins, Kosas Cosmetics and FaceGym already making their mark into the ath-beauty category According to Edge by Ascential data, beauty products referencing “sweat-proof” or other sportrelated keywords online increased by 48% YoY in the first half of 2019, with colour cosmetic products driving the growth
As we moved through 2020, our ability to be athletic was somewhat stunted with global lockdowns; however the athleisure movement only accelerated through the need of comfort while lounging at home Unisex skincare products that adapt to consumersʼ active and daily lifestyles were the focus, which fall nicely into the one to many market that ath-beauty products provide.
Sitting back and relaxing on the ath-beauty trend is not the place you want to be, instead you’ll want your brand and business to be first to the mark to win the race. Take your smaller sized services and offer them as an express work-out like experience for your busy and time poor clients, while focusing on adaptogen ingredients that help facilitate rapid change in the skin during times of inflammation and sweat that can often be associated with gym and leisure type activities
ABIC || Issue 4 18
L M U S C L E s t i m u l a t i o n
The market experiences constant new launches and trend fluctuations, but every once in a while, a new concept arrives that truly grabs the market’s attention and points it in a new direction Facial muscle sculpting seems to be the latest of these - and the future is all about the LIFT
Facial muscle stimulation is currently surfacing as a new frontier in anti-ageing and facial rejuvenation, with a noticeable presence growing among both consumer and professional sectors. Two of the most highly respected Australian device distributors have recently launched new technologies to market, with more undoubtedly to follow, designed to address ageing indications linked with muscular decline We’ve certainly witnessed the boom of body sculpting devices over the past several years, and these technologies have now been tweaked and perfected for the delicate facial muscles Many beauty therapists will likely remember training with EMS devices on the face and body over the past several decades, but this latest batch of technologies are worlds apart from what once was
These new muscle sculpting solutions present an exciting opportunity for the non-invasive sector as they appeal to candidates who either are not seeking; or are not suitable for, injectable treatments like fillers and toxins By targeting the elevator muscles of the face, which have sagged and elongated over time, an overall lifting effect can be achieved, shortening elongated muscle fibres in order to draw the face upwards.
This can dramatically reduce the look of one’s age, particularly since elongated regions like an extended upper lip and marionette region, and sagging jowls, are commonly accepted as primary indicators of ageing. This also applies to the forehead - by tightening the lateral frontalis elevator muscles, the forehead can achieve a lift that has historically only been achieved with anti-wrinkle Any non-invasive solutions to address this are especially exciting for dermal therapists and clinicians, beauty therapists, or other healthcare professionals who operate within the non-invasive space Lumenis and BTL are currently launching their own unique devices to fill this gap in the market: TriLift and EmFace.
This focus on facial muscle treatment and enhancement is also experiencing noticeable momentum within the consumer space. In recent weeks, Mecca Australia advertised on Seek inviting Beauty Therapists and Dermal Clinicians to apply for roles as part of a new collaboration with Face Gym Face Gym currently boasts a huge presence in the US and UK consumer beauty markets, with a unique focus on facial sculpting via a series of muscle stimulation protocols and hand-held devices These involve a range of manual massage techniques and tools, as well as small hand-help EMS devices, which are available to purchase through their US and UK partner Sephora This new venture into Australia through Mecca is undoubtedly going to have a significant impact on the Australian beauty market.
This combination of launches and events leads us to believe that facial muscle sculpting may serve as Australia’s primary anti-ageing focusses for 2023.
small business wellness coaches
Wellness coaches are available all across Queensland
They are located in:
Cairns Mackay North Brisbane South Brisbane Toowoomba Townsville
Wellness coaches will soon be available in Gympie, Ipswich and Greater Brisbane
No matter where you live in Queensland, support is available If Wellness Coaches aren't located nearby, please contact your closest wellness coach located on the https://www business qld gov au website for virtual support.
Additional to the Small Business Wellness Promotional Resources, which include videos, social media tiles and posters, Wellness Coaches are now available to work with you or any of your family members who are employed in your business.
The reasoning behind the introduction of resource is said that a coach can help you find the right service available and also refer you to a specialist service provider for support to reduce stress, improve wellbeing and provide flexible business support.
Held in a free one-on-one, supportive environment, the coaches will work with the Rural, Small Business and Tourism Financial Counsellors Network across Queensland to work with you and your business.
To be eligible to access a coach, your small business must (at the time of applying):
have fewer than 20 employees (full-time equivalents) and less than $10 million in annual turnover
have an active Australian Business Number (ABN)
have your small business as your primary income source (i e 50% or more of the total income), or you must have a recent record of it being your primary income source and the potential to do so again (as determined by the Network coach or counsellor)
be based in Queensland have owners/directors that are not insolvent or are an undischarged bankrupt
Micro businesses and sole traders are also eligible to access a coach
For other benefits to Queensland Business Owners including: Small Business Financial Counselling Program, which helps small businesses experiencing financial challenges in their business Business owners can meet with a financial counsellor for free, one-on-one financial support, including cash flow planning, budgeting, insolvency advice and dispute resolution assistance
Mentoring for Growth, which offers free mentoring and business support from industry experts across Queensland.
and the My Business Health portal, which aims to teach Business Owners to learn how to keep your business afloat, manage your business and find support, head to https://www.business.qld.gov.au/
The Queensland Government has introduces Wellness Coaching in a bid to help small business owners with unique and personal business challengesWords by Otto Mitter
As a beauty therapist it means the world to us to have our clients walk out the door feeling beautiful and on cloud 9 Everything is riding on that principle and our business depends on it. We spend our lives and careers researching, studying, practising, and mastering the art of beauty and specialised services to achieve gorgeous results for our clients, however the art of beautification is not always as easy as it seems.
Even when we perform our procedures perfectly from a practical point of view, there can be challenges and variables that aren’t always easy to predict or identify These circumstances can prevent us from achieving the outcome that we were hoping for, which can leave us feeling deflated and question our skill and performance as a professional.
If you’re reading this article and you can relate, then don’t feel alone - we have all been there and this is all part of the learning process that lifts our skills to new heights
One of the hardest things to navigate in this day and age is we see perfection everywhere on social and digital media. Because these channels often showcase flawlessness, if we can’t achieve that every single time we are performing a procedure, it can leave us feeling like we haven’t quite hit the mark on our pursuit of excellence.
In the lash and brow industry the art of lash lift has become one of the most googled and requested beauty services, because of the advantages that it gives, paired with its instant results. Client’s love paying for a service and seeing results immediately, hence why such services have become mainstays
When you look through the Instagram feeds of many brands and artists that offer lash lifts, you will see jaw dropping results that are sure to turn heads and have people signing up. However, what you don’t see is the real number of treatments that are performed that may not look quite as good as all of the Instagram pictures that take the top spot In my opinion, they still look amazing, make a massive difference for our clients, but when placed against some of the best results that are achieved it can give us a better sense of reality, and that minor imperfections are all part of the journey!
Over the years I have spent a lot of time helping salons with technical support in the art of eyelash extensions and lash lift. Lash Lift in particular, has been a procedure that is underestimated when it comes achieving perfection in application Many therapists have a successful streak of applications and then all of a sudden, they come up against a wall of hit and misses, and the client doesn’t seem to get the result that they previously had, or worse still, 10% of the salons clients are not achieving the positive results that the other 90% are receiving.
When we unpack what the variances are (aside from technical application or product efficacy) we discover that there is usually some key attributes on an individual level that can make or break the results when performing lash lifts These are not too far removed from challenges that happen with skin treatment procedures such as IPL and waxing. The reality of achieving perfection in the world of beauty becomes more of a customisation on individual circumstance, and this is the mindset we need to embrace when we approach our services for our clients
Most of the time we will have great success overall, and that is why the beauty industry is booming and has been sustainable for decades. From time to time, we will have variances and that’s OK! We don’t need to freak out and give up - we need to learn, understand and navigate the art of making adjustments to achieve the desired results, because nine times out of ten you can get a perfect result, you just need to understand the pathway there
Lipid content in lashes is another point that will vary from person to person due to genetics and age factors. One of the biggest challenges I see with therapists achieving great results with lash lift is understanding how to analyse lashes or hairs, and we don’t always have a microscope handy in our salons to check the porosity and resistance of eyelashes! This being said, during our consult we should check to see if there is a glossy finish to the lashes and if this is the case, it usually means a higher lipid content which forms more resistance when we perform the process
The cuticle layers are inter connected with an intercellular cement called the CMC (Cellular Membrane Complex) which is made up of many crosslinks giving the lashes structure. The amount of cuticle layers our clients have, will vary from individual as well as the lipid content within the lashes. The challenge is. when you are using permanent wave agents you have to use the same formula across a variety of different types of hair texture and protein composition.
Apart from the technical and practical challenges of achieving flawless results with lash lift and lamination services, I wanted to bring our attention to the silent challenges that are not always as easy to navigate when we are striving for perfection in our applications.
Age related factors are one of the most common contributors to the way hair or eyelashes respond to cosmetic procedures If you have a wide age range of clientele, this will be a circumstance that you need to prepare for, so that you can make adjustments in your application for certain individuals
As we age we have changes occurring with our hair growth cycle, lashes can become more sparse and the general volume or texture of eyelashes can be reduced, due to lack of nutrients or blood supply to the papilla and cells on some individuals Another variance is a reduction in melanin production which can see lashes and brows losing pigment and colour which then can also make them more resistant to perming or colouring services.
In the mind of a lash lift technician, we need to see the lashes as our canvas. Lashes on each individual not only have variance with lipid content, but they also vary in pH and water content. The hydrophobicity of hair can be governed by genetics and also environmental factors - even relative humidity affects hair and its ability to respond to cosmetic procedures.
As we apply chemicals to the eyelash, they need to interact within the parameters of the molecular environment to which they are processing At the end of the day, we can’t dismiss that we are at the mercy of the individual’s chemical composition and ecosystem, therefore needing to make the adjustment in application to suit our client’s needs
When we unpack other individual circumstances surrounding age factors, human hair is composed of bio-synthesized protein that stores and excretes excess elements from the body Thus, the concentration of trace elements in the hair or eyelashes may provide insight into both the physiological and mechanical challenges of perm lotions performing faster or slower on certain individuals.
From time to time, we will have variances and that’s OK! We don’t need to freak out and give up - we need to learn, understand and navigate the art of making adjustments.
Studies have been performed that show as we age, trace elements of minerals can increase in our hair, therefore causing a range of anomaly’s that can have us re-mapping our process in the application
Diet and lifestyle factors also contribute to the condition of hair and eyelashes Lack of sleep, nutrients and/or a low immune system, can make eyelashes and brow hairs sparse and change the texture of porosity and dryness These elements change the canvas you’re working with, and this means (you guessed it!) you have to change the application approach to get the desired outcome.
We need to remember that processing times with manufacturers products are guides only. Chemical compositions of formulas and beauty products are highly stable and don’t usually change, but the human body has many changes occurring depending on the individual
Another consideration is skin care and how certain ingredients are going to have an impact on hair follicles and skin, especially across a wide range of age groups. Older clients may use Vitamin A, peptides, oils and surfactants that can alter the texture of hair and build up in the follicle, which leads to how a variation can come to fruition when using permanent wave or colouring agents on those lashes or hairs.
Analysing the direction of eyelash growth is another overlooked factor when understanding underwhelming results Many clients have multiple layers of lashes along the eye line area, some have two or three layers, whereas others have six to seven collective layers. Some of these lashes are growing out in a straight direction, while other may grow upwards, crossed over or downwards - especially in the outer corners of the eyes. This is where you need to apply different techniques to compensate for the mixed growth, and apply what I call ‘inversion techniques’, which essentially rebalance the direction in the final result, showcasing more lift and achieving that wow factor which is what we are all looking for when performing the art of lash lift
Remember to have a professional and honest approach in your consultations with your clients, to help them understand the importance of individual needs and customisation in their beauty services. Mastering the art of consultation and customising your treatment approach for your clients will have you well on the way to lifting lashes to new heights
"Have a professional and honest approach in your consultations with your clients, to help them understand the importance of individual needs."
While the avoidance of fads may be an important part of evidence-based practice, in such a fluidly-evolving industry, keeping up with the times is necessary for staying informed, educated, and competitive.
Many leading therapists, clinicians, and business owners among industry would agree that we should not have our practice guided solely by trends As an observer and representative of all sectors of beauty, spa, dermal and medical aesthetics, ABIC collects empirical evidence and anecdotal observations from several key sources across industry, from social media to conferences, peer-reviewed research to relevant statistical reports, in order to bring our members the latest news From these sources, these are the directions our industry seems to be headed in the new year.
ASCD Emerging Trends in Cosmetic Dermatology
The Australasian Society of Cosmetic Dermatology hosted their Emerging Trends in Cosmetic Dermatology Symposium in November; a small one-day conference that both summarised the current areas of focus for aesthetic physicians, and forecasted up-and-coming ones ABIC observed several key takeaways from the day Firstly, dermatologists and other aesthetic physicians are paying more attention than ever to active topical ingredients such as niacinamide and ascorbic acid, utilising them as key components of post-procedure recovery To many skin therapists, this is already a given, however; has not been previously for many cosmetic physicians
Assisted drug delivery also played a large part of this conversation, and the use of various modalities to enhance the penetration of cosmeceuticals Superficial fillers and microtoxin for skin rejuvenation, as well as chemical peels, also took a large portion of the day’s programme. This combination of topics suggests that skin integrity is finally being made a priority across the board for all clinicians and specialties, not only as a primary outcome but as a means to achieving better surgical and minimally-invasive outcomes and improving healing processes after these as well.
The Future of Aesthetics Trend Report
Several months ago, Allergan Aesthetics released their latest global trends report, which observed 10 key emerging aesthetic market trends based on global market research. Most of these are already relevant within pop culture, and are expected to influence the consumer (and therefore professional) market demand throughout beauty and aesthetics. They include:
Diverse Individuality, and the acknowledgement that all ethnicities are seeking out cosmetic treatments and wish to be adequately represented in both their available options and relevant marketing.
The New Masculine, by which male treatments are continuing to gain popularity but also diversity in their offerings.
Gender Inclusive Beauty is continuing to grow, and we are headed even more so towards degendered offerings and clinical environments.
Ephemeral Expression, by which the educated consumer is not only becoming more comfortable and less intimidated by cosmetic procedures, but more willing to experiment.
Elevated Experiences Social acceptance of cosmetic treatments is at an all-time high. Patients no longer want to be hidden away - they want luxurious inclinic experiences
New Body Frontiers. Allergan predicts that body contouring and tightening will continue its upward trajectory
Aesth-ethics is on the rise, and we are openly discussing the concerns around over-filling and overtreating throughout the media Expectations around this are changing, and regulations are noticeably tightening
The Digital Lense made us all begin to scrutinise our faces over Zoom during COVID. That combined with social media continues to push self-awareness of one’s own facial features, and explorations into solutions.
The Metaverse, touted as the next generation of the internet. While we aren’t seeing the impacts yet, it’s predicted this will influence how patients and customers are interacted with The End of Ageing? The scientific community is closer than ever to discovering how to stop, or even reverse ageing, led by cutting-edge research on genetics and epigenetics There may soon be more of a need to craft highly personalised solutions that factor in much more than what we can see and feel on the skin, such as patients’ lifestyle, genetic and behavioural factors
"the educated consumer is becoming more comfortable and less intimidated by cosmetic procedures"
Social Media Buzz
One of the most effective ways to gauge upcoming trends is to observe common topics consistently raised on social media One of the most frequently recurring subjects of interest among the ABIC social media groups is undeniably devices, specifically, for the face
The most common question we’ve seen over the past one to two months alone has been the request for facial rejuvenating device recommendations, and as the market’s offerings become more diverse, accessible, and affordable, and the market demands continue to become more results-focussed than ever, it’s easy to see why the need for in-clinic devices is palpable. Those who currently utilise energy-based modalities are seeking to grow their collection, and those who haven’t yet ventured into the field are finally doing so
Among ABIC’s mission to continue government representation and strive for industry betterment, is its commitment to our members, simplifying operations and helping to boost business outcomes wherever possible. We believe a large part of this is keeping up to date with current industry happenings, the latest data, and key conversations that are happening among leaders and practitioners alike. ABIC is committed to continuing to bring all of this and more to you, our members, via our digital magazine, blog, podcast, social media, and resource centre platforms.
The Aesthetic Beauty Industry Council (ABIC) Australia’s leading beauty & aesthetic industry body is excited to host the in-augural ABIC educational conference. ABIC will be welcoming beauty therapists, dermal therapists, dermal clinicians, cosmetic nurses, cosmetic practitioners, cosmetic surgeons, specialist surgeons and clinic managers to a full day of education and inspiration at the Melbourne Convention Centre.
This will be the largest and most inclusive, non-bias industry event ever hosted in Melbourne. ABIC promise, it will be like nothing you've seen before.
Specialist Speakers and Experts from every sector of our industry are coming together to promote collaboration, the sharing of ideas and information to take your treatment journey’s, results, careers, and businesses to the next level.
What you will gain from the day:
Connect with likeminded industry professionals and leaders. Networking is an investment in your business. Learn from industry experts and specialists in their field. Discover the latest techniques, treatments, and processes for complications Lead your clients and clinic with confidence and certainty, all whilst inspiring others and attracting new clients
Perth Hair & Beauty Expo is back for its sixth year in October. With our experience in exhibiting at trade shows across the country, we knew Perth craved something special. So, in 2017 we began creating what is now known as Perth Hair & Beauty Expo Calling on our collective expertise and passions.
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DDistributed by Venus Concept, the NeoGraft hair restoration system features semi-automated Follicular Unit Extraction (FUE) and implantation technology that enables doctors to restore patients’ hairlines quickly and effectively in a twostep procedure performed under light sedation: 1 The doctor (or assisting technician) uses NeoGraft’s semi-automated handpiece to gently extract hair follicles in naturally occurring groups of one to three hairs from the patient’s donor site (usually at the back of the scalp) without any incisions.
2. After sorting the follicles by size, the doctor (or assisting technician) numbs the recipient sites and strategically implants individual follicles (grafts) in balding areas to create a natural-looking hairline.
As the NeoGraft transplant is performed without a scalpel and therefore requires no stitches, the patient can go home immediately after the procedure, and then after about three days of downtime, return to work and other everyday activities.
Individual results vary (depending on the patient’s age, stage of hair loss, donor-site, number of grafts, etc ), but NeoGraft has already proved to be an overwhelming success in the US for over 10 years with an average ‘Worth It’ rating of 95 percent on RealSelf com and most patients reporting that they ‘look more like they used to’.”
Not surprisingly then, NeoGraft is proving to be equally popular in Australia
Dr Matthew Holman, the founder of The Medical Hair Institute in South Australia, is an early adopter of the innovative technology
Five years after launching the Dr Matthew Holman MH Clinics in North Adelaide, he purchased a NeoGraft device and opened a second clinic, The Medical Hair Institute, dedicated exclusively to hair restoration. Dr Holman took time out from his busy schedule to answer a few questions about his experience helping “men and women reclaim their hair, without traditional invasive hair transplant surgery”
When and why did you decide to open The Medical Hair Institute (TMHI)?
The Medical Hair Institute (TMHI) opened in 2021 as I had a growing number of requests for hair transplants from patients who were coming to see me for PRP Hair Regeneration.
Hair restoration is an expanding area especially as men as taking more pride in their appearance and increasing numbers of women are seeking help for their hair loss
It is truly wonderful to see the difference NeoGraft makes to people’s lives; it is amazing to watch them regain their confidence as their hair grows back
How does The Medical Hair Institute (TMHI) differ to other hair restoration clinics?
Our clinic is actually very different than all other hair restoration clinics
We pride ourselves in offering a trusted respectful, private and personalised, and comfortable and professional practice that is 100 percent centred around the patient.
NeoGraft, a minimally invasive hair transplant that leaves no visible scarring, is transforming the hairlines of thousands of men and women around the world.
We offer a complete and focussed service from the initial consultation through the entire journey of new hair growth with three main treatments: PRP Hair Generation, Hair Growth Medications and NeoGraft Hair Transplant Surgery
We also have an inhouse hair studio that cuts and styles clients’ hair throughout their hair growth journey.
When and why did you decide to offer PRP hair regeneration treatments in your aesthetic clinic?
I have been offering PRP Hair Regeneration since MH Clinics first opened in 2016
I have always been passionate about nonsurgical and non-invasive cosmetic procedures for both men and women and knew that hair loss was a common problem
I chose PRP Hair Regeneration to treat hair loss as it is a natural and low risk procedure that works by promoting blood vessel growth in the scalp, which in turn means more blood and oxygen supply to the hair follicle, which is known to enhance hair growth
When and why did you decide to offer NeoGraft hair restoration procedures in the clinic?
After several years performing PRP Hai Regeneration treatments, I knew that the treatments couldn’t provide good enough results for all my patients, so I knew I had to offer them something more.
Hair transplant surgery seemed like a good option for me to consider as I have had extensive surgical training, so thoroughly researched all the hai transplant systems available on the market.
I quickly discovered that nothing compared to the state-of-the-art NeoGraft, so knew it was the right treatment for us to invest in
How does NeoGraft compare to other hair transplants?
The two main hair transplant methods performed around the world are FUT (Follicular Unit Transplantation) and FUE (Follicular Unit Extraction).
During a FUT transplant, commonly referred to as the ‘strip-method’, a doctor surgically removes a horizontal strip of skin from the back of the patient’s scalp, stitches the resulting wound, and then transfers follicular units of one to four hairs to balding areas.
During a FUE transplant, a doctor gently
What are the main benefits of a NeoGraft transplant compared to traditional FUE transplants?
NeoGraft eliminates the inefficiencies of manual extractions and implants so doctors can perform FUE transplants faster and more effectively with less pain and discomfort for patients – and yield superior clinical results.
The semi-automated device delivers such superior results, including an average graft survival higher than 90 per cent, primarily due to three key factors:
· During graft harvesting, the device eliminates loss of fluid and protects grafts through a vacuum seal
· During recipient site creation, the device delivers more standardised implants
During graft implanting, the ‘no-touch implanter’ causes the least amount of bulb trauma
Apart from the final result (a full natural-looking hairline), NeoGraft delivers three other significant benefits to patients:
· Before a NeoGraft transplant: No major preparation is required.
· During a NeoGraft transplant: There is minimal pain and discomfort as no surgical incisions are made.
·After a NeoGraft transplant: Most patients can go home immediately and, after around three days of downtime, return to work and their everyday activities.
What sort of response is the NeoGraft generating at The Medical Hair Institute (TMHI)?
We have had a terrific response to NeoGraft from new and existing patients
At this stage the best response has probably been from some of our patients who have had PRP Hair Regeneration treatments and now want to take the next step and improve their results further with a hair transplant
What sort of results are you achieving with the NeoGraft?
We have been very excited by the results we are seeing with our patients. It is especially satisfying when they come in and are so happy with their new hairlines.
In fact, thanks to the success we have had, I have been appointed a Key Opinion Leader and Head Trainer for NeoGraft.
In this role I share my expertise and train other doctors to perform NeoGraft hair transplants.
The demand for NeoGraft around the country is surprisingly large – patients are coming from all over, not just South Australia, to see me for a treatment.
What are your plans for The Medical Hair Institute in the next 12 months or so?
The key goal over the next 12 months is to educate and build awareness about NeoGraft throughout Australia
There is no question that the procedure delivers the results it promises, but sadly there are a lot of people who would benefit from the treatment but simply don’t know it exists
I therefore encourage barbers to tell their balding clients about NeoGraft – it really could change their lives.
NeoGraft is also a big win for barbers –once their clients get their hair (and confidence) back, they will have to start booking more appointments and spending more on products and services!
To find out more about NeoGraft visit www.venusconcept.com
To contact Dr Matthew Holman visit www medicalhair com au
THE IMPORTANCE OF GOAL SETTING
We all know goal setting is important and something that we should be doing with employees, but do we actually know why? By understanding exactly why goal setting is so important and being aware of the benefits that goal setting can unlock for your business, you can use it to not only provide an advantage to employees, but to the business as a whole.
Moreso now than ever, therapists are very much now wanting more than just a job. Its important that businesses able to provide their teams with a clear link between how their day to day role contributes to the overall business’s success.
Goal setting is a really clever way to be able to achieve this – you put the responsibility of shaping their day to day work into the hands of the individuals and they can take control over how their individual goals contribute to the overall businesses objectives
Did you know?
When goals are written down they are 33% more likely to be achieved.
Setting goals is directly linked to higher levels of confidence, motivation, and autonomy
Businesses that set individual performance goals quarterly can generate 31% more returns than those reassessing annually
However, it’s not enough to just give employees goals, or tell employees to set their own goals and get on with it – in order to implement effective goal setting, its important that the goals themselves are strategically curated and – probably most importantly – are developed in collaboration between the employee and their manager
This is because this is where a lot of the benefits of goal setting are born – employees feel connected to their goals and have a vested interest in them! Most people don’t like to simply be told what to do, they want to be involved in determining goals that make the most sense for them. Giving employees some sense of participation in the goal-setting process is an important element of ensuring that it’s successful.
Using a framework when setting goals is also going to help you develop clearly defined goals that are specific and measurable – this is going to be what helps your goal-setting process be implemented effectively so you can reap the benefits from it.
There are quite a few different types of frameworks you can use, one of the most common ones is the SMART framework. Cascading goals is another framework that is great to use when implementing goal setting because it helps to make sure that individual goals support team goals and company strategic objectives. This is a great way to leverage goal setting to help the company achieve its strategic plans
When employees understand how their individual roles and responsibilities contribute to the bigger picture, they’re often more focused and motivated to achieve goals that result in success for both the business and themselves.
UPREGULATION OF COLLAGEN GENE EXPRESSION by both Keratinocytes & Fibroblasts
It has been established that the fibroblast is a major player in the creation of all dermal layers, and in the structural integrity and density of the skin. The dermis comprises of seven layers, with each layer playing a special role in maintaining the shape and form of the body and face. The slow deterioration of these layers will reflect in the outward appearance of the skin; compounding over a period of time and leading to alterations in texture, colour and secretion.
"The seven layers of the dermis are as follows:
Dermal/epidermal junction (DEJ)
Superficial fascia septa (Collagen Type I) which surrounds and supports all appendages of the dermal extracellular matrix
Deep fascia septa of the muscle (attaching skin to muscle)
Flattening of the undulating rete peg ridges begins to take place around the age of twenty and is first noticed at the lash line The deterioration then progresses into the papillary layer; reducing cellular nourishment to both the epidermis and the dermis overtime
With deterioration of the papillary layer, the superficial fascia septa (loose connective tissue) is the next to show visible signs of ageing
The superficial fascia septa is the supporting framework for appendages such as hair follicles, sebaceous glands, sweat glands, capillaries or lymph vessels, and is composed of loose connective tissue; Collagen Type I
Looseness in the eye fold area as an example, indicates that the ageing pathway has moved from the papillary layer into the superficial fascia septa; compromising dermal appendages and the reticular dermis
As the ageing process continues, it progresses down into the subcutaneous layer and deteriorates the loose connective tissue that protects and surrounds each adipocyte cell The loss of connective tissue contributes to fat movement and fat loss, exhibiting as a fat pad either side of a wrinkle. The longer and deeper the line, the further the ageing process has occurred
A youthful look depends on having the right amount of facial fat in the right places Redistribution, accumulation, and atrophy of fat lead to facial volume loss. Once the ageing process passes through the subcutaneous layer, the tissue will detach from the muscle Viability of skin is dependant on the dermal/epidermal junction (DEJ); because of the important role this membrane of connective tissue plays in the strength and adhesion of both the epidermis and dermis. Therefore, its structure ensures it is the last part of the integument to age.
When the DEJ has aged, you will visibly see a collapsed junction (wrinkle); whereby the epidermis has crashed into the dermis due to loss of structural and mechanical support.
According to Dr Lance Setterfield, studies have confirmed that it is the loss of structural integrity at the DEJ that causes wrinkles.
While there is some overlap between pathogenesis of intrinsic and extrinsic ageing, the predominant mechanism for premature ageing is triggering of Matrix Metalloproteinase (MMP’s) collagenase and elastase, via UVR exposure.
Histological image of a wrinkle. Images from: https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih. gov/10354068/
Targeting of the DEJ with treatment modalities may alleviate signs of ageing optimally in the following ways:
Targets keratinocytes to promote cell crosstalk and gene expression that regulates melanocyte and fibroblast function (amongst many other cells).
Targets gene expression at the DEJ for the purpose of upregulation of Collagen Types IV, VII and XVII (in addition to I and III) and other components of the DEJ to restore structure and cellular adhesion
Results in gene expression that downregulates MMP’s, inflammatory growth factors, and cytokines (thus playing a preventative role in premature ageing).
Results in gene expression that upregulates anti-inflammatory growth factors and cytokines (thus resulting in normal collagen formation as opposed to scar tissue collagen that forms in the presence of inflammation).
Research has determined that UVR activates a protein complex called AP-1 which produces large amounts of MMP enzymes
Collagenase and elastase play an integral role in keeping the dermis free from cellular debris, so that new cells and systems replace the old MMP enzymes come equipped with receptors called Tissue Inhibitor of Matrix Metalloproteinase (TIMP), that turn off the enzymes function when they are no longer required
Unfortunately, TIMPs decline with age, and these protease enzymes remain continuously activated; especially under UVR exposure This, in turn, amplifies cellular deterioration of the dermal extracellular matrix (ECM), particularly at the DEJ
Collagen found at the DEJ region is Type IV (4), VII (7) and XVII (17) According to Dr Lance Setterfield and supporting authors of numerous studies, reticular fibroblasts are not that responsive to skin needling Collagen VII is produced by both keratinocytes and fibroblasts, and Collagen IV is an essential component of the basal lamina of the DEJ.
Collagen IV forms a mesh network that is highly cross-linked, and is considered to maintain mechanical stability and is used as a framework for other molecules of the DEJ. The loss of Collagen IV weakens the DEJ, and can break the mechanical stability
Collagen VII is the principal constituent of the anchoring fibrils, and these structures play a major part in stabilising the association of the basement membrane of the DEJ to the underlying papillary dermis The deterioration of Collagen VII will contribute to the formation of wrinkles by weakening the connection between the DEJ and dermis.
Whenever you see the depth and site of a wrinkle, you must consider the deterioration of Collagen Types VI and VII at the DEJ, as this will allow your mind to take a journey beneath the skin’s surface so that you can consider what treatment modalities and products will be appropriate for the treatment of wrinkles and the loss of structural integrity.
According to Dr Lance Setterfield, a “less-is-best approach” offers benefits of reduction in downtime, reduced risk of side effects, and less pain (which will translate into greater compliance and best results) This is where modalities such as Collagen Induction Therapy (CIT) is highly beneficial for the repair of the DEJ and the subsequent reduction in the appearance of wrinkles
CIT is a skin treatment modality that invokes a controlled wound healing response within the skin’s epithelial tissue using medical grade, stainless steel needles. These needles, in turn, generate a controlled inflammatory response within the tissue and result in the production of biological protein molecules (cytokines and growth factors) Cytokines and growth factors encourage the production of collagen from fibroblasts in order to be synthesised for the repair of the dermal ECM.
COLLAGEN INDUCTION THERAPY
Image from: https://pubmed ncbi nlm nih gov/10354068/
IS HIGHLY BENEFICIAL FOR THE REPAIR OF THE DEJ AND THE SUBSEQUENT REDUCTION IN THE APPEARANCE OF WRINKLES.
Collagen development begins within the Rough Endoplasmic Reticulum and unfolds within three stages:
Stage 1 Procollagen
Stage 2 Tropocollagen Stage 3 Formation of Collagen Type I & III fibrils
Procollagen is produced in the Rough Endoplasmic Reticulum and packaged in Golgi bodies from which arise secretory vesicles. These vesicles bud off from the Golgi apparatus and into the extracellular space of the dermis, where enzymes transform the procollagen into tropocollagen, which then combines with other tropocollagen; to form collagen fibrils type I & III of the ECM of the dermis that make up the reticular and papillary layer
The ageing dermis in the medical and aesthetics industry is generally treated by ablative procedures that injure the epidermis and basement membrane, leading to fibrosis (scar tissue) of the papillary dermis Damaging the epidermis significantly can cause potential adverse effects such as dyspigmentation (hyper/hypo pigmentation)
It has been documented in clinical trials that CIT is an alternative modality for safely and effectively treating wrinkles and scar tissue, as well as smoothening the skin without the risk of dyspigmentation.
When it comes to the repair of the DEJ, as reticular fibroblasts are not that responsive to skin needling, it is advised by medical professionals, that we concentrate our skin needling techniques within the epidermis and the DEJ. In a study by Fan and Owen (see references), cosmetic rolling utilising depths at 0.2-0.3mm on average, ignites a molecular symphony within the epidermal tissue that is referred to as “paracrine signalling.” This only requires needles to pierce the viable keratinocytes just under the stratum corneum barrier
The results showed keratinocyte-related dominant gene expression at the DEJ for the purpose of upregulation of Collagen Types IV, VII and XVII (in addition to Collagen I and III) and other components of the DEJ to restore structure and adhesion Cosmetic rolling has also been proven to showcase a down regulation of the MMP’s as well as the reduction of most pro-inflammatory cytokines that further accelerate the ageing skin
While the amount of Collagen Type I was not significantly increased (this is where clinical Medical Microneedling comes into play), cosmetic depths did increase Collagen Type III; which is actually essential for Collagen Type I formation.
What we need to understand is that the keratinocyte has the ability of secreting Collagen Type IV, VII and XVII. Collagen IV is hypothesised to be synthesised within the Golgi apparatus of the keratinocytes, and is located within the basal lamina of the DEJ. Under microscopic analysis, it was detected as blurry thread-like material located in the space between the basal cell membranes of keratinocytes and the underlying collagen film (DEJ); as well as accumulated on the thickened cell membrane of basal keratinocytes and hemidesmosomes
Collagen VI expression is also believed to occur in both papillary and reticular fibroblasts This enhanced dermal strength through Collagen VI interaction, with Collagen III, provides a tough substrate for epidermal adhesion; according to Dr Lance Setterfield
"Collagen Type VII is expressed in both keratinocytes and fibroblasts, however, keratinocytes express Collagen Type VII in higher concentration Collagen VII extends perpendicular at the sub lamina densa of the DEJ, and anchors into the papillary dermis. The collagen protein molecules are transported across the basement membrane and deposited accordingly to form anchoring collagen fibrils. What is interesting to note, is that basale keratinocytes appear to be the primary source of Collagen VII in developing foetal skin
Collagen Type XVII is a major structural component of the hemidesmosomes, and is likely to play a role in maintaining linkage between the structural elements (anchoring the overlying epithelium to the underlying basement membrane). In studies conducted on human keratinocytes, Collagen XVII could only be extracted from the epidermis but not the dermis. This means the keratinocyte may be the only sole provider of Collagen Type XVII
Keratinocytes and fibroblasts are both responsible for synthesising basement membrane components Over the years, many authors have noted beyond expectations with needling depths of 0 3mm or 0 5mm in patients where wrinkles were excessive. In relation to clinical treatments, it’s important to always choose the worst depth of cellular damage as your point of reference It is, however, common for the ageing skin to show all levels of deterioration where all the previous levels of ageing have gone on; starting with the flattening of the rete peg ridges, down into papillary layer, following the fascia septa and down though into the reticular layer, subcutaneous, and then back up to the DEJ
The skill here is to choose the worst depth of damage as your point of reference in order to make vast improvements to your client's skin Let’s explore the visual clinical results from cosmetic needling provided by Dr. Lance Setterfield.
55 years old, treated with products for 18 months and 0 3mm for 6 months (6 months between images) 64 years old, treated once a week with a 0 5mm and 6 days a week with a 0 3mm for 5 months
In summary of this article, studies have confirmed that it is the loss of structural integrity at the DEJ that causes wrinkles While there is some overlap between pathogenesis of intrinsic and extrinsic ageing, the predominant mechanism for premature ageing is triggering of Matrix Metalloproteinase (MMP’s) via UV exposure. Targeting of the DEJ with treatment modalities may alleviate signs of ageing optimally in the following ways:
Targets keratinocytes to promote cell cross-talk and gene expression that regulates melanocyte and fibroblast function (amongst many other cells)
Targets gene expression at the DEJ for the purpose of upregulation of Collagen Types IV, VII and XVII (in addition to I and III) and other components of the DEJ to restore structure and cellular adhesion.
Results in gene expression that downregulates MMP’s, inflammatory growth factors, and cytokines (thus playing a preventative role in premature ageing)
Results in gene expression that upregulates anti-inflammatory growth factors and cytokines (thus resulting in normal collagen formation as opposed to scar tissue collagen that forms in the presence of inflammation)
E D U C A T E
Cosmetic rolling utilising depths at 0 2-0 3mm on average, ignites a molecular symphony within the epidermal tissue that is referred to as “paracrine signalling ” This only requires needles to pierce the viable keratinocytes just under the stratum corneum barrier. Claiming this depth is ineffective completely ignores the molecular symphony that is paracrine signaling A “less-is-best approach” is far more superior than ablative skin treatment modalities, as this approach will offer benefits of reduction in downtime, reduced risk of side effects, and less pain (which will translate into greater client compliance and better results).
Thank you, Dr. Lance Setterfield, and supporting authors for proving the medical and aesthetics industry with superior knowledge and education
Words by Kai Atkinson
https://www.needlingguide.com/wpcontent/uploads/2016/04/Upregulation-of-Genes-at-theDermal-Epidermal-Junction pdf (Dr Lance Setterfield)
Lilli Fan, Don Owen, DNA Microarray Analysis of Microneedle Effects on MatTek FT Skin Equivalent, 2010 Baton Rouge
The Journal of Biological Chemistry - Two Forms of Collagen XVII in Keratinocytes (Heike Schacke, Hauke Schumann, Nadja Hammami-Hauasli, Michael Raghunath, and Leena BrucknerTuderman).
The Journal of Investigative Dermatology - Secretion of Type IV Collagen by Keratinocytes of Human Adult (Motoi Oguchi, M.D., Takasi Kobayaski, M D , and Gustav Asboe-Hansen, M D )
The Journal of Clinical Investigation - Type VII collagen gene expression by cultured cells in fetal skin Abundant mRNA and protein levels in epidermal keratinocytes (J Ryynanen, A M Christiano, and J Uitto)
Florence Barrett-Hill - Advanced Skin Analysis https://pubmed ncbi nlm nih gov/18971740/
PRESSURE no no
DIAMONDSWords by Maria Enna-Cocciolone
(B.C.) Before Covid, my world was what I now know ‘predictable”. I knew me, I knew those close to me, both professionally and personally; I knew how they would respond to different scenarios; I knew their strengths (not so much their weaknesses), I knew the challenges of doing business, I knew my restrictions, what I could do, what I would finder harder to do and overall I felt in “control” of my life BC, I knew what was a given
Three years on, predictable is hardly the word I would use to describe my life and the world that I live in I am not the same, people are not the same, doing business is not the same, restrictions seem to define my activity and control has gone to the Covid Aftermath What was once a given is now a privilege Qualified staff, staff working from their office desk, patience in people, grateful people, passionate people with big dreams, passionate people with big dreams and work ethics, loyalty in people, freight that arrived within reason, freight that arrived.
A little pandemic, a loss of predictability, a lot pressure and a little pause, makes the perfect environment to take in lifes lessons.
The first time I was exposed to human behaviours in an emergency was in 2009, in L’Aquila Italy. I was there with industry colleagues and the family hometown we had just left was hit by a 6.3 earthquake. In tragic circumstances I saw people that I had always believed were strong and able, freeze and breakdown whilst the quiet and more reserved find strength in the face of danger, take control and get everybody out of deep sleeps and their beds
The lessons I learned then, which were once again bought to light during the Pandemic is “do we really know who we are until we are faced with some of our greatest fears”, and by fears I refer to all things out of our control, natural disaster, war, people, change, the past, the future, privilege (or lack of), mental and physical limitations, when you die, when other people die
In the face of fear, danger, losing someone, losing everything, we are suddenly forced to bring the “real us” to life. Like the Italian earthquake the last few years have clearly demonstrated we are not one and the same, gosh, we ourselves are not the same Some of us are stronger, wiser, less fearful, and pliable, while others are broken, have lost hope and can’t see the future for the past.
It goes without saying, no one has been saved, the last three years, and without a doubt the last twelve months, have been difficult for everyone but we cannot miss the lessons that come with hardship and heartache Often these lessons are our biggest blessings, and if we are to survive, to forge ahead, then these crucial lessons must not go past us.
Mblessings" aria EnnaCocciolone
Here’s what we know; and must never forget.
1.This too will pass Think of your darkest moment, your biggest fear becoming the reality. Your clinic doors closing, no work – no money, the world shutting down. No matter what that looked or felt like, you are here, you have made it out the other end Always remember, even the darkest times will pass.
2 The actions of today are the consequences of tomorrow It’s what you do n the darkest hours that will set you up for the future. During the pandemic we all had choices Many chose to reinvent themselves, to look or the opportunity, to morph into the new way of life; and for most this resulted in grand opportunities and some of their best achievements to date Those that took little or no action, have found themselves in the same position or more than likely left behind Step into changes and make the most of them, push yourself to lean in, it will always pay off.
3.Control what you can, accept what you can’t. Don’t waste a milli-second of energy on things you can’t control. Make a difference where you can; “nourish where you wish to flourish”
4.Family first. The pandemic taught us the strength of our immediate household Generations came together under one roof each bringing different experiences, learnings and know how to the table. We were forced to deal with each other’s complexities and in the process, the avoidance of oneliness was the strength we gained to get through each day
1.Your tribe are your saviours. Family is not always the go to and no matter the strength of the family (or not) what’s critical is that you personally and professionally surround yourself with like-minded people, values, and energy. This tribe must be your constant in life, so that the moment it all comes crumbling down they are working on the rebuild simultaneously!
"Take the lessons and make them your
6. Kindness changes the world. Everyone is broken, everyone is suffering, many, mostly in silence. The pandemic has stolen the part of people’s heart that put others first. Whilst there is so much, we cannot control, our responses, our words, our care level and generosity is one we can Be kind, kindness softens hearts and moulds relationship; today, it can even save lives.
7.Have money for a rainy day. I was taught this as a child, always have money stashed away in case you need it Before Job Seeker and Job Keeper were a thing, far too many people I know went from day to day living to not being able to put bread on the table. We are lucky in Australia that our government offered financial support, but what if it didn’t, what if it won’t ever again Now’s the time to open that savings account to ensure your future, look out for you.
8 Your dreams must go on Sure, from time to time they get side railed, but when you really want something, you don’t lose faith or focus. Remember the saying “if it’s to be, it’s up to me”? Live by it and don’t let anyone or anything dilute your dreams.
9.Self-care is not self-indulgence. Self-care is self-preservation, it is detrimental to wellbeing, because as you replenish your resources you build the immunity and fight to take on and survive every day. Remember, the words self-care and guilt should never be used in the same sentence Ever.
10.Connection can’t rely on disconnection. The thing most humans missed the most during the pandemic is “touch”. Remember the first hugs as you came out of lockdown, the genuine emotion behind them, the strength in the hug, the way the hug lingered? The pandemic taught people the importance of touch and whilst without a doubt virtual helped us to stay in touch it will never be a substitute to face to face connections. Make the time for each other, most of all make it for the elderly and the needy
11.Always be grateful. We may be different, but we are here today We still live in a beautiful country, we are safe, we are free, and we are surrounded by opportunity. We must never forget to show gratitude for each other; for those that make a difference in our lives Every day I thank God for my blessings, my parents for their sacrifices and the endless opportunities we have.
So remember, the next time you feel pressure in your life, “no pressure-no diamonds”, life isn’t easy, but its always worth it!
BALANCE work lifeby Keira Maloney
Of course, the term ‘work life balance’ can mean many things to different people, but in essence –employees now value having a job that they can schedule around their family and other commitments. Time spent with loved ones, time spent on self-care and time spent on activities and hobbies are the priority and gone are the days where people are willing to accept a roster that only works for the business
Other industries have shifted to complete work-from-home or hybrid working arrangements, allowing for a far more flexible lifestyle and unfortunately there has been a huge shift in skilled workers migrating over to industries that can facilitate this type of work
How can industries like ours compete with these types of working arrangements when our skills require us to work exclusively on-site?
As the aesthetic and beauty industry faces an ongoing war to find and maintain talent, we have no choice but to explore making meaningful changes to compete with the shift happening in other industries
There’s no denying that the landscape around what constitutes a quality work life balance is changing in not only the beauty and aesthetic industry, but in most industries.
1)Employers need to lead by example.
Things must change from the top and wearing ‘busy’ as a badge of honour and working excessive overtime is more detrimental to team member morale and overall culture than it is positive. It simply creates expectations from employees to work at the same level with the same energy which is not sustainable or conducive to a positive work life balance.
A shift toward a better culture around boundaries in a workplace requires those at leadership level to value their own work life balance as an example, so that others feel that they can too Avoid powering through and showing up to the clinic or salon sick, don’t book in clients outside of your opening hours, and try to avoid formal correspondence with your team out of working hours if you can
2)Set clear KPI’s and evaluate
Setting clear goals and objectives and assessing individual performance will allow you to understand and measure team members individual success. Could it be possible that they may be able to meet the required goals and objectives on reduced working hours, or outside of evenings and weekends, allowing for a better work life balance?
An employee working a 30 hour work week has potential to hit the same financial goals and KPI’s as one who works 38 hours per week (and the reduced hours might be the difference between you keeping them or not!)
changing your salon hours
This is a very difficult one to consider, as our industry has been built on facilitating appointments for people that work business hours, but the world is changing
With so much of the corporate workforce moving to flexible working hours, beauty appointments within business hours are now an option, with fewer people requiring strictly evening or weekend appointments
Employees are looking to have set days off with limited evenings or weekends and job advertisements that outline this as an option are undoubtedly performing better with applicants With that said, some employees would prefer evening or weekend work because their partner is home to take care of parenting responsibilities
Understanding your teams individual requirements and balancing them with your realistic client requirements is key to finding a quality balance.
it time to consider Weekend surcharges?
For years, some hospitality outlets have charged weekend and public holiday surcharges and it has had no impact on their ‘bums on seats’. Should the convenience of a weekend beauty appointment attract a similar cost? You may be surprised how many people will actually make a weekday appointment work if they have say, a 10% weekend surcharge to pay Those that are willing to pay the surcharge for the convenience, are covering you for a slightly increased weekend pay rate for your team, which may incentivise them to take up more regular weekend work
Have you implemented a structure that facilitates a quality work life balance for your team? We would love to hear about it in our ‘Beaute by ABIC’ community, share what has worked and what hasn’t worked in your own business so others in our community can consider what could be a great option.
LAUNCH Cleansing ComplexPolish
Luxury cosmeceutical skincare brand, iS CLINICAL, has recently launched its CLEANSING COMPLEX POLISH. Designed to take at-home skincare to a professional level, the CLEANSING COMPLEX POLISH provides a salon-quality, ecofriendly exfoliation in a singlestep formula.
Recognising that a skin cleanser and exfoliator can be so much more, the CLEANSING COMPLEX POLISH thoroughly cleanses the skin’s surface and pores, leaving it softened and smoothed, with a polished, glowing finish.
A deeply cleansing yet gentle physical exfoliant, the CLEANSING COMPLEX POLISH thoroughly cleanses the skin –crucially without drying or stripping the skin of essential natural oils. The light, foamy gel formulation contains eco-friendly microparticles that are composed from Cellulose and Jojoba – a natural alternative to microplastics
The natural microparticles of this unique formula physically exfoliate the skin, while also soothing and calming the skin The CLEANSING COMPLEX POLISH also includes Salicylic Acid, which provides a gentle biochemical exfoliation, complemented by the inclusion of Glycerine to give the skin a boost of extra hydration.
Designed for easy, at-home use, the CLEANSING COMPLEX POLISH is applied with a small amount of product placed in the palm of hand, then by rubbing the hands together and then gently massaging the product over the face and neck. The product is then rinsed thoroughly with water and the skin patted dry.
The exclusive combination of the CLEANSING COMPLEX POLISH ingredients clarifies and refines the complexion without irritation, leaving skin feeling clean, smooth and revitalised.
A complete facial experience in a single product, the multi-purpose CLEANSING COMPLEX POLISH is excellent for all skin types and ages including blemish-prone skin, large or congested pores, aging or dull skin, or dry / sensitive skin
Clinical, Dr Charlene DeHaven, explains; long been popular as a form of at-home mes there has been an increased demand ons This, coupled with a desire for salonme led us to develop the CLEANSING
LEX POLISH provides a safe physical and much like you’d receive in a professional ed to work with your existing skincare our skin type,” Dr DeHaven explains, ce weekly for optimal results.
L products, the CLEANSING COMPLEX sly tested by independent third parties to s efficacy The final formulation of every rather than individual ingredients in nsure that it will perform as promised,
OLISH is available now for RRP: $80 For d Australian stockist details, visit
On The Record.
This month on the Beaute by ABIC Podcast, recruitment, retention and dermatology with our industry leaders and path makers.
Episode 246: Innovative Learning Solutions for today’s clinics, spas and salons with Renee Smith from BLOOM by The French
With over 18 years of experience in the beauty, dermal, laser, cosmetic and retail industries at both educational and managerial levels, Renee has seen it all.
Renee began her career in film and television as a make-up artist in The Lord of The Rings movie production, continuing her true passion of service to others in the Spa and Wellness industry, before like many of us, becoming addicted to all things skin and went on to lecturing in dermal science and therapies.
Renee is now the Business Development Manager for Bloom by The French, Australia’s leading aesthetics corporate training and
Episode 245: Reduce new client attrition and retain more new clients with Vanessa McDonald from Salon Marketing Agency
Industry leaders refer to Vanessa as the "queen of retention marketing", and with good reason Retention marketing has been her sole focus since 2008.
Vanessa's mantra is "all clients are new clients", whether they have visited the business once and never returned or have been coming regularly for beauty services but never had a skin-related treatment
"Salons, spas and clinics don't need to do backflips and cartwheels to attract new clients because the majority have less than 27% of new clients return for a second visit If a salon owner puts as much effort and dollars into their new client rebook and retention strategies as they do to acquire a new client, the overall revenue would be lifechanging "
Episode 244: Treating Aesthetic Scars with Professor Firas AlNiaimi for Candela Medical
Professor Firas Al-Niaimi is a highly experienced consultant dermatologist, cosmetic and laser expert with over 15 years’ experience and an international standing
He trained in some of the UK's top hospitals and currently holds an honorary consultant position at the world-renowned St. John's Institute of Dermatology at Guy's and St. Thomas’ Hospital where he completed an advanced fellowship in dermatologic surgery and lasers for a full year, followed by additional advanced training in various centres in the USA
Renee is driven by a strong passion for driving organisational success, enhancing employee performance, team productivity and quality assurance through effective training programs and driving sales and employee retention in the industry.
Discussing innovative learning solutions for today’s clinics, spas and salons, from The French Beauty Academy this is one episode you're sure to enjoy listening to!
To share her ideas and strategies on how to reduce new client attrition and retain more new clients, from Salon Marketing Creative Agency, you'll love this conversation with Vanessa McDonald.
He has a passion for education, research and science and has over 150 publications in Dermatology and Lasers, making him one of the most prolific and well-published consultant dermatologists in the UK. He has delivered more than 200 scientific presentations around the world where he is regularly invited to speak, in addition to several chapters of books and his own book
Here to discuss the best treatment approach to Aesthetic scars, for Candela Medical, today we welcome Professor Firas Al-Niaimi