WHAT’S ON YOUR
Maine
Bucket List?
BIG OR SMALL, WE’VE GOT TONS OF IDEAS TO ADD TO YOUR ULTIMATE MAINE TO-DO LIST
GET SPO OK ED AT FOR T KN
OX DRINK A MOXIE
TA
TOUR THE STANDPIPE
CAMP OUT IN THE WOODS
SP EN D TH E NIG HT ON MO NH
EG AN
Vacation E
VISIT A MAIN E LIGH THOU SE
A MAI E N K
N
DE
TAKE A FERRY RIDE
R AROUND TH E
W A
TRAVEL THE SCULPTURE TRAIL
Waterfalls , & MO RE MO XIE FAL LS, GU LF HA GAS
VISIT ACAD IA’S QUIE T SIDE
PLUS! FUEL YOUR DAY WITH A
MAINE-ROASTED CUP OF COFFEE MEET A LOCAL TEEN AUTHOR
CONTENTS
AUTUMN 2023
FEATURES 30
YOUR MAINE BUCKET LIST
From island visits to getting spooked at Fort Knox, what iconically Maine things are on your to-do list?
38
FAMILY FUN: ORGANIZED
Overwhelmed trying to plan activities for the family? One Bangor mom offers tips to get organized and have more fun.
40
TAKE A TRIP
They don’t call it Vacationland for nothing. We’ve got ideas for minivacays all over Maine.
48 FROM A VISION TO A THRIVING ENTERPRISE
30
WHAT’S ON YOUR MAINE BUCKET LIST?
48
THE HISTORY OF OUR INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT
How Bangor’s Godfrey Field became an international airport
IN EVERY ISSUE 06
MEET OUR CONTRIBUTORS
Get to know our Bangor Metro team
08
WHAT’S HAPPENING
14
OBSESSIONS
What we can’t get enough of this month
60
THE VIEW FROM HERE
The almost empty nest
ON THE FLIPSIDE Flip this issue over for ideas and inspiration for your Maine wedding
2 / BANGOR METRO Autumn 2023
PHOTOS: (TOP) ADOBE STOCK; (BOTTOM) FINNEGAN ALLEN
Local events and a Pop Quiz
ARTS & CULTURE 10 THE KEY TO A GOOD MYSTERY Hampden author digs into local history for new children’s book
12 MAINE READS, MAINE WRITES A young local author tells his story with help from The Telling Room
KARASTAN, SHAW, MOHAWK & GODFREY HIRST
WALL TO WALL CARPET www.salibas.com
FOOD & DRINK 16
COFFEE BREAK
183 Robertson Blvd. BREWER, ME 942-4029 • 800-559-4029 Mon-Fri 9am-5pm
Family owned & operated since 1950
Meet the Mainers roasting and grinding up tasty brews
HEALTH & FITNESS 20
ADVENTURE ME
Wander to a stunning Maine waterfall
HOME & FINANCE 24
CANOPY CAMPOUT
Ever wanted to sleep in a treehouse? Turns out there are lots of fun options all around Maine
28
TIME TO TRAVEL
Retirement travel tips that won’t break the bank
www.bangormetro.com BANGOR METRO / 3
EDITOR’S NOTE
What’s on Your Maine
Bucket List? SUMMER NEVER FEELS LONG ENOUGH — EXCEPT MAYBE THIS YEAR. With the only available weather options being extra soggy or extra humid, I’m ready for a change of seasons. No pressure, Autumn, but we have a lot of ground to make up. This magazine is all about checking adventures off your Maine Bucket List, and we all know fall in Maine is the perfect time for a day trip or staycation. Weather aside, my family’s been on a pretty good run lately, finding fun all over our great state. We’ve camped out at Acadia, caught a Portland Sea Dogs game at Hadlock (and mowed down on Sea Dog biscuits — a definite Bucket List addition if you’ve never tried one), swam in Long Lake way up north in Sinclair, enjoyed a couple Waterfront Concerts at the newly renovated Maine Savings Amphitheater in Bangor, and got our toes in the sand at Wells Beach. Flip to page 30 for tons of ideas (lighthouses and islands and chocolate, oh my!) from our writers to add to your own Maine Bucket List. If a selfie at Stephen King’s house is on your list or you’re just looking to get spooked this Halloween, see page 37 for a breakdown of haunted happenings. And if you need a little pick-meup to get started on your Bucket List, check out our story on page 16 about Maine coffee roasters. Perhaps travel is on your Bucket List? Flip to page 40 for a selection of fun trips all over Maine. Ever wanted to sleep in a tree house? See page 24. Looking to get out of Dodge for a few days? Same. My son has been begging to go somewhere that warrants a plane ride and my daughter loves exploring new cities — so we’re heading to Chicago in a few weeks and feeling very fortunate that we can grab a direct flight from Bangor. Learn about the history of Bangor International Airport on page 48. And finally, if planning the perfect Maine wedding is on your to-do list, flip this issue over for inspiration. We’ve got trends and tips from Maine photographers, stunning proposal spots, fun places for a local bachelorette party, and more.
(Above) Archie was more interested in the seagulls than the view at Seawall in Acadia National Park, but he fully embraced playing a tourist in Bar Harbor. (Right) Working on our selfie skills while hiking up Mount Battie in Camden.
AUTUMN IN MAINE IS A STUNNER AND WE’RE MORE READY THAN EVER.
NOW GO MAKE THE MOST OF IT!
Meet the Team! FLIP TO THE NEXT PAGE TO MEET A FEW OF OUR BANGOR METRO CONTRIBUTORS FEATURED IN THIS SEASON’S ISSUE.
4 / BANGOR METRO Autumn 2023
AMY ALLEN EDITOR & ART DIRECTOR
Connect With Us Online bangormetro.com facebook.com/BangorMetro bangormetro talkback@bangormetro.com
www.bangormetro.com P.O. Box 1329 Bangor, Maine 04402-1329 Phone: 207.990.8000
PUBLISHER
Richard J. Warren
SALES MANAGER
Laurie Cates
lcates@bangordailynews.com
EDITOR & ART DIRECTOR
Amy Allen
aallen@bangordailynews.com
CONTRIBUTING WRITERS, PHOTOGRAPHERS, & PROOFREADERS Emily Burnham, Sarah Cottrell, Marissa Donovan, Anne Gabbianelli, Erinne Magee, Emily Morrison, Joanna O’Leary, Kaylie Reese, Crystal Sands, Aislinn Sarnacki, Richard Shaw, Robin Clifford Wood
Bangor Metro Magazine. Autumn 2023, Vol. 19, No. 3. Copyright © Bangor Publishing Company. Bangor Metro is published 4 times annually by Bangor Publishing Company. All rights reserved. This magazine may not be reproduced in whole or part in any form without the written permission of the Publisher. Opinions expressed in either the editorial or advertisements do not represent the opinions of the staff or publisher of Bangor Metro magazine. Advertisers and event sponsors or their agents are responsible for copyrights and accuracy of all material they submit. Bangor Metro magazine to the best of its ability ensures the acuracy of information printed in the publication. Inquiries and suggestions are welcome and encouraged. Letters to the editor, story suggestions, and other reader input will be subject to Bangor Metro’s unrestricted right to edit and publish in the magazine both in print and online. Editorial: Queries should be sent to Amy Allen at aallen@bangordailynews.com. Advertising: For advertising questions, please call the Sales Manager Laurie Cates at 207-745-2419. Accounts Payable/Receivable: For information about your account please contact Todd Johnston at 207-990-8129.
COVER BACKGROUND IMAGE: Christin Lola/Adobe Stock
www.bangormetro.com BANGOR METRO / 5
MEET OUR CONTRIBUTORS
Go Team!
WE’RE FORTUNATE TO HAVE THESE TALENTED & CURIOUS WRITERS SHARING STORIES THIS MONTH. INTERESTED IN JOINING OUR RANKS?
EMAIL AALLEN@BANGORDAILYNEWS.COM FOR MORE INFORMATION ABOUT WRITING FOR BDN SPECIAL SECTIONS.
ERINNE MAGEE is a reiki practitioner, hospitality publicist, and the author of “THIS IS CAMP” (sold at The Briar Patch and Amazon). Her writing appears in The New York Times, Washington Post, Boston Globe, Travel + Leisure, National Geographic, Conde Nast Traveler and Yoga Journal. Read more at erinnemagee.com or follow along on Instagram @erinnemagee.
SARAH COTTRELL is a writer, editor, and online content creator from midcoast Maine. She is currently an editor at Parents Magazine and is working on her first novel. Learn more about her writing on Instagram @housewifeplus and Medium @sarahcottrell, and sign up for her newsletter sarahcottrell. substack.com where she shares freelancing advice.
MARISSA DONOVAN is a contributing writer for the Bangor Metro and Bangor Daily News Special Sections. She was born and raised in Deer Isle, and graduated from Colby-Sawyer College in New London, NH, with a Bachelor of Arts degree in creative writing. In her downtime she enjoys reading, listening to podcasts, and gardening. Marissa is always seeking out feel-good stories and upcoming events in Maine to share with Metro readers.
6 / BANGOR METRO Autumn 2023
ANNE GABBIANELLI has enjoyed a robust career as a freelance writer, broadcast journalist, and college professor. Her articles about the fascinating people and history of Maine have been published in several magazines, newspapers, and other periodicals. She finds her subjects as she travels throughout the state, discovering hidden towns, visiting museums, and exploring local lore. Anne is also a hospice volunteer who meets amazing people who often share their life stories with her.
RICHARD SHAW is a Bangor native who lives and breathes local history. In 2021, the city named him its honorary historian and presented him with a key to the city. When Dick isn’t writing freelance articles, providing television commentary, or compiling best-selling vintage photo books for Arcadia Publishing, he might be photographing old graveyards or haunted houses. His long careers with the Bangor Daily News and the City of Bangor have provided him with fodder for untold stories and editorial opportunities. On his horizon is a possible novel involving Bangor’s colorful lumbering era.
JOANNA SHAWN BRIGID “BRIDEY” O’LEARY was born in Alexandria, Virginia, grew up in central Pennsylvania and Massachusetts, and now calls Sebec, Maine home. She graduated from Harvard University with a degree in English and earned a PhD in Victorian literature from Rice University. Bridey has served as a culinary consultant, food historian and travel/food critic for media outlets such as The Nosher, Let’s Go travel guides, Wine Enthusiast, HuffPost, the Onion, Texas Highways, Houstonia, and ColinCowie Weddings. Follow her writing and research projects at www.brideyoleary.com.
CRYSTAL SANDS is a writing professor, homesteader, and editor of the journal Farmer-ish, a journal dedicated to farming arts and education. When she is not saving seeds or tending chickens, she is writing daily for the Farmer-ish blog. You can follow her adventures in homesteading in rural Maine at www.farmer-ish.net.
www.bangormetro.com BANGOR METRO / 7
WHAT’S HAPPENING
AUTUMN 2023 SEPT. 12 BEST OF BANGOR WALKING TOUR Bangor is a city rich in history, mystery and powerful events. Perched on the edge of the Maine North Woods and a one-time important harbor, Bangor’s history is filled with tales of lumber barons who struck it rich from her natural resources as well as shipping magnates and manufacturing pioneers. The Best of Bangor, hosted by the Bangor Historical Society, tells the stories of our first settlers, the greatest disaster in U.S. Naval History (until Pearl Harbor), the British Occupation during the War of 1812, the Great Fire of 1911, and so much more. This tour meets at the Bangor Historical Society/ Thomas A. Hill House at 159 Union Street, Bangor. Tickets are $12 per person. Check website for additional dates. BANGORHISTORICALSOCIETY.ORG
SEPT. 19 ANI DIFRANCO AT THE WATERVILLE OPERA HOUSE Widely considered a feminist icon, Grammy-winner Ani DiFranco is the mother of the DIY movement, being one of the first artists to create her own record label in 1990. While she has been known as the “Little Folksinger,” her music has embraced punk, funk, hip hop, jazz, soul, electronica and even more distant sounds. See DiFranco and special guest Kristen Ford live in Waterville. WATERVILLECREATES.ORG
SEPT. 22-24 THE COMMON GROUND COUNTRY FAIR
Bring your own mat and suck up the last bit of summer doing yoga on the stage of the Maine Savings Amphitheater. Fee is just $15, and the yoga session starts at 5:30 p.m. Stick around after for a social hour at the backstage Premium Seat Club and grab a drink by the fire.
The Common Ground Country Fair, hosted by the Maine Organic Farmers and Gardeners Association (MOFGA) in Unity, is an annual celebration of rural living. Featuring 1,000+ exhibitors and speakers, the fair emphasizes vibrant communities, sustainable living and local economies, while highlighting organic agriculture.
SEPT. 16 MOUNT HOPE CEMETERY WALKING TOUR One of many dates this fall to learn little known facts about some of Bangor’s most famous — and infamous — residents during a guided tour by the Bangor Historical Society. Hear about the importance of symbolism in the gravestones and get a chance to take in some of the city’s beautiful vistas. Built in 1834, Bangor’s 300-acre Mount Hope Cemetery is the nation’s second
MOFGA.ORG/THE-FAIR
SEPT. 27 DROPKICK MURPHYS AT THE MAINE SAVINGS AMPHITHEATER Boston’s favorite American Celtic punk band kicks off its new tour on the Bangor Waterfront, joined by The Interrupters and opener Jesse Ahern. WATERFRONTCONCERTS.COM
Answers to this month’s Pop Quiz: Question 1: A; Q2: B; Q3: B; Q4: B; Q5: C.
8 / BANGOR METRO Autumn 2023
BANGORHISTORICALSOCIETY.ORG
SEPT. 13 YOGA NIGHTS: VINYASA FLOW YOGA ON THE STAGE
WATERFRONTCONCERTS.COM
Find answers below!
oldest garden cemetery. It was designed by renowned architect Charles G. Bryant as part of a national movement to provide respite from grassless urban landscapes. Event tickets are $12 and must be purchased in advance.
PHOTO: AMY ALLEN
BOO!
There’s no reason to be scared... or is there? It’s a spooky, scary, frightfully fun pop quiz!
OCT. 7 BANGOR UNCORKED 2023
OCT. 19-22 2023 WORD FESTIVAL
Pop by the Cross Insurance Center to sample dozens of fine wines from Maine and around the world, plus Maine ciders, signature cocktails, and live music all evening. A standard ticket includes three hours of sampling from 5-8 p.m. and a souvenir wine glass. A Townsquare Media Live Event.
Although our world is increasingly digital, Mainers still love books and their authors. Since 2017, Word, the Blue Hill literary arts festival, has attracted capacity crowds to various local venues for speakers such as novelist Lily King, punk-rock memoirist Phuc Tran, and New Yorker cartoonist Liza Donnelly. This year’s festival will be headlined by novelist Jennifer Egan, the Pulitzer Prize-winning author of “A Visit from the Goon Squad” and other celebrated novels. In addition to attending talks and workshops, audiences will be invited to chat with authors at an opening reception, a chowder supper, and a Sunday brunch. Except for the workshops, all events are free and open to
CROSSINSURANCECENTER.COM
OCT. 8 POUND THE PAVEMENT 5K COLOR FUN RUN/WALK Pound the Pavement to support those affected by cancer. At each kilometer mark, Pound the Pavement runners/ walkers are doused from head to toe in a different colored powder. Participants wear white at the starting line and finish the race plastered in color. Once the run/ walk is over, the fun continues at the finish line with a visit to the Sea Dog and two complimentary beverages for all those 21 years of age and over! PURPLEIRISFOUNDATION.COM/ POUND-THE-PAVEMENT
the public. Word is funded by the Stephen and Tabitha King Foundation and other generous donors. The festival’s media partner is WERU-FM. Its fiscal sponsor is Blue Hill Community Development. WORDFESTIVAL.ORG
OCT. 21 WITCHES OF EASTPORT The Eastport and Lubec ArtWalks announce the return of Witches of Eastport with all-ages interactive experiences. Pumpkin carving, wizard hat and wand making, witch and warlock costume parade, Quidditch broom decorating, Harry Potter Sorting Hat team challenge for kids, pumpkin derby race, and more. BASSLADY.COM/ARTWALK
FIND MORE NOT-TO-BE-MISSED MAINE EVENTS ON PAGE 31. LOOKING TO GET SPOOKED? FLIP TO PAGE 37 FOR ALL THE HALLOWEEN HAPPENINGS! www.bangormetro.com BANGOR METRO / 9
ARTS & CULTURE
THE KEY TO A
Good Mystery MYSTERY AND HISTORY IN HAMPDEN CAPTURED FOR YOUNG READERS
H
ARTS & CULTURE IS SPONSORED BY
COLLINSCENTER FORTHEARTS.COM University of Maine (207) 581-1755 10 / BANGOR METRO Summer 2023
BY ANNE GABBIANELLI
ampden author Angeli Perrow weaves entertaining mystery to engage readers ages 8 and older with actual history in her Key Mystery series. “The Professor’s Key,” set in her hometown, features five children working at an archeological dig along the Penobscot River’s edge. These explorers make many discoveries, including a mysterious crypt in the basement of the historic 1843 Hampden Academy (HA) building adjacent to the location of the 1814 Battle of Hampden. “The idea for this book evolved from wanting to set a mystery at a haunted school,” said Perrow, a retired teacher and author of 22 books. “In writing the Key Mysteries, I always start with the setting. When I heard the old Hampden Academy building might have a ghost, I decided to set the story in Hampden. No one died at the school, but there was a professor who taught there in the 1800s who was very popular with students, and HA was special to him. He became the benevolent ghost — and perhaps really is!” Writing is an exciting adventure for Perrow. “Once I choose the setting, I research its history, legends, and interesting facts. I absolutely love the research part of it because I learn so much,” she said. Perrow was assisted in her research for The Professor’s Key by the Hampden Historical Society and a tour of the old HA building. Discovering the graves of two British soldiers at Hampden’s Old Burying Ground also fired her curiosity. The children in the story are quite curious, too. While they search for the key to the HA crypt, they learn lots of local history, as does the reader. “It is wonderful that Angeli has taken a significant but long-forgotten event right here in Hampden and has woven that into a story that every Hampden and Bangor student should know,” said Jim Husson, president of Hampden Historical Society. “Five hundred British soldiers and 500 American militiamen did battle on Academy Hill in Hampden. Yet, there are no placards or monuments to remember this by. She has made a history lesson fun to read about.” Perrow’s love for reading fueled the Key Mystery series. “I was a voracious reader as a child, devouring books about space, dinosaurs, ancient Egypt, fairy tales, you name it, but my favorite was mysteries. A huge fan of Nancy Drew and Hardy Boys, it now gives me pleasure to write the same type of thrilling, chilling tales for today’s kids.” Seven of the 12 Key Mystery books are set in Maine, four in other states, and one in Scotland, all offering intriguing adventures. Fort Knox is the location for “The Fortkeeper’s Keys,” the sixth book in her series. “Fort Knox was fascinating to research since I loved visiting it as a child. My siblings and I would explore the dark, spooky rooms and tunnels with our flashlights,” she said. Perrow never intended for her first Key Mystery written in 2009 to turn into a series, let alone have some of the books make their way into classrooms and school libraries. “When I read ‘The Lightkeeper’s Key’ to my art students at Weatherbee School, they asked, ‘When is the next book coming out?’ A third-grade girl suggested I write a whole series of mysteries with a key in them,” Perrow explained. “Eureka! The Key Mysteries were born.” Perrow also wrote the picture books “Captain’s Castaway,” “Lighthouse Dog to the Rescue,” and the award-winning “Many Hands.” Learn more at angeliperrow.com. Her books are available at the Briar Patch in Bangor and at Amazon.com.
PHOTO: COURTESY OF ARIEL BONIN
Author Angeli Perrow poses with her book “The Professor’s Key” in Hampden’s Old Burying Ground.
www.bangormetro.com BANGOR METRO / 11
MAINE READS, MAINE WRITES
MO TELLS HIS
Story
WITH HELP FROM THE TELLING ROOM, THE VOICES OF MAINE YOUTH ARE BEING READ AND HEARD
(Above) Mo Drammeh, a 2023 graduate of Bangor High School, holds a copy of The Telling Room’s anthology that includes an excerpt from his book, “Where the Cryptids Fled.” 12 / BANGOR METRO Summer 2023
PHOTO: (MO DRAMMEH) RYLAN HYNES
BY ROBIN CLIFFORD WOOD
T
he life of Muhammad “Mo” Drammeh, a 2023 Bangor High School graduate, was swept into an unexpected whirlwind over the past 15 months that began with his decision to elevate his writing skills. When Mo connected with The Telling Room, things really started to spin. The Telling Room is a multi-awardwinning, writing-enrichment organization based in Portland that has been launching the voices of Maine’s youth (3,500 students per year!) into the world for nearly 20 years. The organization’s enthusiasm for Mo’s work was evident in both Rylan Hynes, The Telling Room’s communications and editorial director, and a summer intern, who drove up to Bangor to meet with Mo and me at Wicked Brew. Mo has a charismatic presence, exuding the wit and wisdom of a naturalborn storyteller. Creative writing was part of his childhood, he explained, but he left writing behind in middle school in favor of STEM subjects. Mo excelled in science. As a high school junior, he was part of a select STEM student group, and the innovative science fair project he co-created led to a full-tuition scholarship at the University of Maine. Still, Mo observed his fellow STEM students and noticed a breadth of accomplishment he felt he lacked. Each exhibited talents in the arts, outside of STEM areas. “They all had something amazing about them,” Mo said. “I didn’t have that.” Mo thought writing could be his niche, so set out to enter a bunch of contests. The first contest he entered, he won. Most entrants in the statewide, blind submission “Crime Wave” contest were adults, and many were well-established writers. No teen had ever won before. Mo’s outside-the-box thinking used the contest’s theme of “being buried alive” to highlight a deep-rooted societal problem. His protagonist is a person of color, “buried” in the hopelessness of repeated incarcerations. Mo’s accomplishment got The Telling Room’s attention. They invited Mo to apply to their Young Emerging Authors program,
a yearlong mentorship awarded each fall to four students who publish a book at the close of the following summer. Mo was one of last year’s YEA winners. “As soon as I read Mo’s proposal, I was excited to meet him,” Hynes said. “[Mo’s writing examines] what happens when we feel ‘othered’ by our communities.” His work is important, and it gets to the heart of The Telling Room’s core ideals: All voices matter. In Mo’s book, “Where the Cryptids Fled,” he was inspired to address the oppressive treatment faced by our country’s LGBTQ community. In his “urban fantasy” world, a minority population of cryptids is targeted with violence and extermination. The compelling drive behind Mo’s fictive work is to confront real-world, oppressive systems of all kinds. I asked Mo what inspired his efforts to promote social justice in his writing. As a person of color in a predominantly white community, he said he knows what it is to stand out, to be different, and to seek inclusion. “The America I love says that anyone can be whoever they want to be,” he said. Through writing, he hopes to catalyze change. “Stories transmit feelings of empathy and understanding.” Mo’s book has joined The Telling Room’s nearly 200 published books from across the years, each with its own illuminating story. Do not imagine these works by children are childish works. These writers, ages 6-18, have learned how to artfully express profound wisdom through a wide range of experiences. “We strive to center and amplify youth voices, underheard voices,” The Telling Room’s website states. Every child has a story, and most are eager to share. Sadly, many young people never discover how to express what is in their hearts, particularly
those whose voices are discouraged by a world unwilling to see or hear them. Mo’s voice will be heard. Many more are clamoring to speak. We would all do well to listen.
THE NEXT YOUNG EMERGING AUTHORS application deadline is coming up this fall. YEA is only one of many Telling Room programs, including SWARM (students, writers, and readers meet), an online, semesterbased program. Visit The Telling Room’s website at tellingroom. org to purchase books and publications and to explore available programming throughout the year — in person, online, or in your school’s classrooms.
ROBIN CLIFFORD WOOD is the award-winning author of “The Field House,” a biography-memoir hybrid about Maine author Rachel Field. For the last 20 years she has immersed herself in Maine’s writing world — as columnist, poet, blogger, essayist, teacher, student, and colleague. To learn more, visit her website: robincliffordwood.com.
OBSESSIONS
OBSESSIONS WHAT WE CAN’T GET ENOUGH OF THIS MONTH.
WATCH WHY DO WE LOVE IT? Let’s say the show “Diners, Drive-Ins, and Dives” had some spooky spirit. Instead of food, they showcased all the haunted houses, horror movie sets, halloween conventions, and gravesites of hollywood icons across the country. If that intrigues you, deep dive into the many videos The Grimm Life Collective has on their YouTube channel. The YouTube channel is run by Michael and Jessica, a married couple who are Halloween buffs. One of my favorite videos is when they rent the house the movie “Scream” was filmed in. They were able to splice together actual movie scenes with what the house looks like today. — MARISSA DONOVAN
PADDLE FREE CANOE & KAYAK RENTALS AT HIRUNDO WILDLIFE REFUGE WHY DO WE LOVE IT? I really can’t recommend the canoe and kayak rentals at Hirundo Wildlife Refuge enough. The preserve, located between Old Town and Alton, offers the rentals for up to three hours at a time — just enough time to paddle down and back between the launch point and the dam at the end of the Pushaw Stream or along the Dead Stream and its little nooks and crannies. We went recently and saw more herons and cranes than we could count, alongside turtles, frogs, tons of other birds, and one very fat groundhog. The folks that run Hirundo are wonderful, and best of all? Rentals are FREE. Just reserve it online, and toss Hirundo a couple bucks in donations as a thank you. — EMILY BURNHAM
SUBSCRIBE to The B-Side newsletter for more from Emily, plus local happenings, news and fun. Visit bangordailynews.com/bdn-newsletters.
14 / BANGOR METRO Summer 2023
STAY THE LIBRARY SUITE AT THE NORUMBEGA INN, CAMDEN WHY DO WE LOVE IT? I’ve always fantasized of having what I refer to as a “Beauty and the Beast” library. Ceilingto-floor books with a ladder sweeping across the room. Combine this vision with my love of hotels and Norumbega Inn is making dreams come true. The two-story Library Suite at this Camden property is where guests can sleep under the books by night and get lost in a world of stories by day. Along with shelves of books, the loft features a cozy sitting room and a built in bed to accommodate an additional guest. Between the fireplace and the room’s beautiful garden views, not to mention the inn itself looks like a castle, a stay here makes you feel like you’re living in a fairytale. — ERINNE MAGEE
PHOTOS: (HIRUNDO) BDN FILE: (OTHERS) ADOBE STOCK
THE GRIMM LIFE COLLECTIVE YOUTUBE VIDEOS
EAT POPCORN CHICKEN BASKET AT SMOKE AND STEEL I can not picture even the fussiest eater turning down this fried, buttermilk basket of heaven. The Popcorn Chicken Basket at Smoke and Steel in Bangor has generous cubes of fried chicken and seasoned fries. When I first ordered it, I assumed it was going to be like the smaller breadcrumb bits I’m used to getting at fast food chains. Smoke and Steel may draw in a crowd for its ax throwing and BBQ, but I’m there for a different reason. — MARISSA DONOVAN
WATCH THE BEAR SEASONS 1-2 ON HULU Fine dining, Italian beef, dysfunctional families, work stress, sweet little moments — “The Bear” has it all in spades. Prepare to fall fully in love with the overly stressed out and brilliant chef Carmen Berzatto, played by Jeremy Allen White of “Shameless” fame, who returns to his hometown of Chicago after inheriting a sandwich shop from his brother. The first few episodes are pure chaos, but settle in — once you start to understand all the different characters, it’s impossible not to root for each of them. Things kind-of, sort-of start to turn around for everyone in Season 2, as they prepare to reopen the restaurant as a fine dining establishment. It’s so good, so chaotic, so real, so sweet, and yikes, that Christmas episode. Buckle up. Come for the guest stars, stay for a brilliantly dysfunctional Jamie Lee Curtis performance. Plus, the soundtrack is perfection — track it down on Spotify, you won’t be sorry. Fingers crossed for a Season 3 announcement soon. — AMY ALLEN
READ A rainy summer’s been good for one thing — I’ve done a lot of reading! Here are a few books I recommend checking out. WEYWARD BY EMILIA HART — Told from the perspective of three women from three very different time periods (1619, 1942, and 2019) who all end up spending time in the same little cottage in England, Weyward is the last name of a family with a strange secret. If you like stories with a little bit of magic and witchcraft — and strong, resilient women — this is it. These ladies have been through a lot (trigger warning), but their connection to nature and each other gets them through. ADULT FICTION NOW IS NOT THE TIME TO PANIC BY KEVIN WILSON — Two awkward, bored, creative teens get together in the summer of 1996 and secretly make a poster that launches their town — and the entire world — into a panic. And now, 20 years later, a journalist discovers their identity, which might just ruin their lives. Author Kevin Wilson is all about writing truly unique stories (if you haven’t read “Nothing to See Here” about a set of spontaneously-combusting twins, you totally should) that feel very believable despite the unbelievable events and circumstances. ADULT FICTION HAMNET BY MAGGIE O’FARRELL — I like to read by booklight right before drifting off to sleep, so books that leave me in an emotional puddle are usually not my jam. But this one is worth all the tears. Set in the late 1500s, this novel tells the fictional story of Shakespeare’s son Hamnet (a name, we are told, used interchangeably with Hamlet at the time), who died at age 11 of the bubonic plague. But instead of following The Bard, this story focuses on Shakespeare’s wife, a woman with an unusual gift of sight and healing through potions and the herbs she grows, and their children, including Hamnet’s twin sister. O’Farrell’s writing is beautiful and mesmerizing, ending with an emotional exploration of tragedy and grief. HISTORICAL FICTION
— AMY ALLEN
www.bangormetro.com BANGOR METRO / 15
FOOD & DRINK
COFFEE
Break
WITH A ROBUST AND GROWING LIST OF MAINE COFFEE ROASTERS, YOU DON’T HAVE TO SEARCH FAR FOR A GREAT CUP OF JOE
FARM HOUSE COFFEE ROASTERS WINTERPORT “Fresh, locally roasted coffee is just so much better, and people are realizing this. We have been in business for seven and a half years, and when we started, there weren't nearly as many micro-roasters as there are now,” Andrew Newell, owner and 16 / BANGOR METRO Summer 2023
roaster at Farm House Coffee Roasters in Winterport, said. "Coffee is fun! We have over 50 kinds from all around the world, depending on the season. This is what makes us different and unique.” Newell sources his beans from the largest organic importer on the East Coast for most of the coffee varieties he roasts. The rest is direct trade with farms. This way, Newell explained, he can ensure the highest quality organic beans for his customers. “Coffee, like many foods, is better fresh, and fresh means local,” Newell said. “There are so many great roasters around Maine. I would recommend everyone find a roaster they like from our beautiful state. It supports local, and your coffee experience will be greatly improved.”
TIME & TIDE COFFEE BIDDEFORD Time & Tide Coffee is a fantastic spot for folks in southern Maine looking for a solid cup of Joe. “One of the key things that appealed to us in opening our coffee company in Biddeford was the creative and entrepreneurial spirit in the city, and I think that is true in many other places all around the state,” said Briana Campbell, co-founder of Time & Tide Coffee. “And, of course, here we also have a beautiful historic downtown and the mill buildings, perfect for both our retail café and our coffee roastery.” Time & Tide Coffee sources their beans from growers they’ve built connections with.
PHOTOS: ADOBE STOCK
C
offee might just be one of the few fads that will never die. These days, finding a great cup of coffee isn’t that difficult, especially in Maine. That’s because Maine has a robust coffee roasting scene that is putting excellent brew in the hands of Mainers everywhere. If you love coffee and want to support the Maine coffee scene, check out these three Maine coffee roasters.
BY SARAH COTTRELL
“My partner, Jon Phillips, has nearly 30 years of experience in coffee, which means he has deep relationships with coffee exporters and importers all over the world and has spent time in many of the regions we source coffee from,” Campbell said. The next time you’re in Time & Tide Coffee's neighborhood, swing by their Biddeford café and try one of their signature blends, The Commodore, Year One, or the Clambake Cold Brew. BLACK INK COFFEE BANGOR Bangor-based Black Ink Coffee is a veteranowned-and-operated coffee roaster that offers a subscription service for coffee lovers everywhere.
“We love to explore and invent our blends. We treat it like a culinary art, thinking about coffee in terms of flavors, aroma, body, and acidity,” owner Parker Russell said. “The creation process often involves a lot of tasting, experimenting, and more tasting. We enjoy mixing beans from different origins to achieve complex and exciting taste profiles that our customers love.” All that love and experimenting is how Russell created Black Ink Coffee’s No. 1-selling roast, Maineiac, invented right in his home kitchen.
“My wife and I had tested probably hundreds of different blends and finally came up with the perfect mix of sweetness, body, and acidity.” Russell explained that his company is eager to continue its coffee adventure and to continue contributing to the vibrant Maine coffee scene. That’s why they create and sell their blends wholesale to coffee businesses, including many Maine coffee houses. Supporting local and finding a new favorite coffee blend is a win-win. www.bangormetro.com BANGOR METRO / 17
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2023 CONGRATS TO ALL THE 2023 WINNERS! DID YOU MISS OUR BEST RESTAURANT ISSUE? NO WORRIES! SCAN THE CODE BELOW FOR A FREE DIGITAL MAGAZINE.
18 / BANGOR METRO Summer 2023
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ADVENTURE ME
WANDER TO THE
Waterfalls SPECTACULAR WATERFALLS TO VISIT THIS AUTUMN STORY & PHOTOS BY AISLINN SARNACKI THE ROAR OF the waterfall becomes louder as you hike closer on a well-worn path. It drowns out birdsong and the chatter of squirrels, commanding your attention. Carefully, you approach the edge of a slate cliff. A fine mist fills the air, dampening your skin. At the viewpoint, you stand near the top of the waterfall, the perfect spot to see how the water runs over a natural stone staircase before plunging into a dark pool far below. Waterfalls are special places that fill us with wonder and excitement. In addition to being hypnotically beautiful, they’re prime examples of the power of nature. Maine, with its many waterways, is home to a number of stunning waterfalls. Each one is different, and they change in appearance throughout the year, as water levels rise and fall — or water freezes.
20 / BANGOR METRO Autumn 2023
Nestled in the wilderness, many of these waterfalls are only accessible by trail. But they’re well worth the effort. And while you’re hiking, you’ll undoubtedly see some other wonderful displays of nature. If you decide to hike to a waterfall this fall, keep an eye out for bright mushrooms poking up from the forest floor and out of tree trunks. Lots of fungi emerge in late summer and fall. In addition, you can enjoy the colorful fall foliage of deciduous trees such as maple, oak, ash, and aspen. Maine’s foliage season typically lasts from midSeptember to the end of October, depending on where you are in the state. Here are a few waterfall hikes, ranging from easy to challenging, to inspire your next adventure.
Water shoots around a bend in Nesowadnehunk Stream at Little Niagara Falls in Baxter State Park.
NIAGARA FALLS NEAR MILLINOCKET EASY Little and Big Niagara Falls are a top destination for families and people looking for easy hikes within Baxter State Park. These beautiful cascades of Nesowadnehunk Stream drop about 20 feet, and there are plenty of places to picnic on granite outcroppings along the shore. Out and back, the relatively flat hike is just over 2 miles, and it’s on the famous Appalachian Trail. There’s about 0.3 mile of trail between the two falls, and you’ll reach Little Niagara first. Access to Baxter State Park is free for Maine residents and $16 for non-residents. Dogs are not permitted. For more information, visit baxterstatepark.org
MOXIE FALLS NEAR THE FORKS EASY
Moxie Falls, one of Maine's largest waterfalls, is 90 feet tall and can be reached by an easy, 1-mile trail.
With a vertical drop of 90 feet, Moxie Falls is one of the tallest waterfalls in Maine. An easy 1-mile walk leads through a mixed forest to wooden platforms that are perched on cliffs near this amazing cascade. Located on Moxie Stream, the main waterfall is described as a “plunge,” which means the water freefalls from a ledge at the top to a pool below. In addition, above and below the waterfall are wide cascades and pools. The property is owned and managed by the Maine Bureau of Parks and Lands. Dogs are permitted. Access is free. For more information, visit maine.gov/dacf/parks.
LITTLE WILSON FALLS NEAR MONSON MODERATELY CHALLENGING Aislinn Sarnacki views the frozen upper falls of Little Wilson Falls from a viewpoint off the Appalachian Trail.
Surrounded by slate walls that reach up to 90 feet tall, Little Wilson Falls is actually a series of waterfalls divided into upper, middle and lower, with the upper falls being the tallest and most dramatic. The hike to the upper falls, out and back, is just under 2.5 miles. However, you may need to add 1.6 miles onto that, depending on where you park. The upper falls is just over 42 feet tall and described as a “horsetail,” which means it’s long, thin, and fans out at the end. It also maintains contact with the rock beneath, which in this case is a series of steep slate steps. The middle falls is 25 feet tall and the lower falls at 18. The trail is maintained by the Maine Appalachian Trail Club, though much of it is located on property owned by Elliotsville Plantation. Dogs are permitted. Access is free. For more information, visit matc.org.
HEALTH & FITNESS
ADVENTURE ME
An overlook side trail off Gulf Hagas Rim Trail leads to a view of Billings Falls.
GULF HAGAS NEAR BROWNVILLE
PETERS BROOK FALLS IN BLUE HILL
STRENUOUS
EASY
Known as the “Grand Canyon of Maine,” Gulf Hagas is a slate gorge carved out by the West Branch of the Pleasant River. Over the course of 3 miles, the river drops about 500 feet, forming several spectacular waterfalls and swimming holes. The trail network is nearly 12 miles, but you certainly don’t need to hike all of it to enjoy some waterfalls. Along the 3-mile Rim Trail is Screw Auger Falls, Lower Falls, Hammond Street Pitch, The Jaws, Buttermilk Falls, Stair Falls, and Billings Falls — all of which are impressive. A word of caution: The beginning of this hike requires fording a 150-wide river that’s often knee-deep. During times of high water, this is inadvisable to cross. To access the area, you must drive through the Katahdin Ironworks checkpoint for the North Maine Woods, where you must pay $12 per day for Maine residents and $17 for non-residents. Dogs are permitted. The trails are managed by the Maine Appalachian Trail Club. For more information, visit matc.org.
Most of Maine’s waterfalls can be found in the mountains, inland. But this scenic cascade is located right near the coast, on the Blue Hill Peninsula. The waterfall is small but beautiful, pouring into a pool filled with minerals that make the water appear orange or red. Located in a preserve that’s owned by the Blue Hill Heritage Trust, the waterfall is visited by Peters Brook Trail. Out and back, the hike is just 1 mile and travels gradually uphill through a beautiful mossy forest of conifers. And if you’re looking to walk some more, the entire network is about 5 miles of hiking trails. Access is free. Dogs are permitted if on leash at all times. For more information, visit bluehillheritagetrust.org.
AISLINN SARNACKI is a columnist for the Bangor Metro and a registered Maine Guide. An expert on the Maine outdoors, she’s the author of the guidebooks “Dog-Friendly Hikes in Maine,” “Maine Hikes Off the Beaten Path” and “Family Friendly Hikes in Maine.” Follow her adventures at bangordailynews.com/outdoors. You can also find her @mainenaturehikes on Instagram and @1minhikegirl on Facebook and Twitter.
Wading across the West Branch of Pleasant River on the way to the Gulf Hagas Rim Trail.
An overlook side trail off Gulf Hagas Rim Trail leads to a view of Screw Auger Falls.
www.bangormetro.com BANGOR METRO / 23
HOME & FAMILY
CANOPY
Campout
TAKE YOUR VACATION TO NEW HEIGHTS WITH A TREEHOUSE ADVENTURE
T
BY JOANNA O’LEARY
he next time someone tells you to “go climb a tree,” we can point you in the right direction. If you’re looking to get away from your troubles (and the ground), consider spending a few nights suspended, Swiss Family Robinson-style, among the treetops. Arboreal accommodations are one of the latest trends in vacations, and Maine is home to some of the most charming. Options range from swanky to simple, but what they all have in common is the promise of being able to see the forest through the tree(house) and revel in natural beauty. Founded by three like-minded families, the resort company Purposely Lost aims to provide adventurous tourists with sustainable and memorable travel experiences via their collection of whimsical sleeping spaces, which include two treehouses. The OPTIONS RANGE FROM SWANKY TO SIMPLE, BUT WHAT THEY ALL HAVE IN COMMON IS THE PROMISE OF BEING ABLE TO SEE THE FOREST THROUGH THE TREE(HOUSE) AND REVEL IN NATURAL BEAUTY.
HOME & FAMILY IS SPONSORED BY
FRANKWEBB.COM 9 Buttermilk Road, Ellsworth (207) 667-7841 1156 Hammond St., Bangor 24 / BANGOR METRO Autumn 2023 (207) 947-6333
SkyFrame Treehouse is a mignon 350-square-foot marvel, boasting a full kitchen, two queen beds, and modern aquamarine-tiled bathroom. Radiant heat and hot water are provided by a heat pump, and solar energy powers most of the home. Purposely Lost’s similarly cute and compact Canopy Treehouse has the same amenities — note the gorgeous fire-engine red retro fridge — as well as a full grill, wraparound deck, and private hot tub. The Woods of Norway invites you to “take to the trees” via their upscale treehouse. With two bedrooms (queen bed and two extra large bunk beds), a spacious kitchen and seating area flanked by a fireplace, and screened-in porch, The Woods is the ideal escape for families or couples. Weekend warriors will also appreciate its proximity to snowmobile, hiking, snow-shoeing, and ATV trails, while ski bums and bunnies can take advantage of the slopes about 45 minutes away. Another lovely option that won’t have you lumbering too far, should you wish to engage in winter and summer athletic activities, is the Moonlight Treehouse. Tucked behind the waterfront of
Belgrade Stream, the Moonlight Treehouse is replete with touches of rustic elegance including a stainless steel farmhouse sink, copper stovetop, deck jacuzzi, and dishes adorned with deer illustrations. Those who find it difficult to disconnect completely will relish the Smart TV with Netflix, Hulu, and Disney+ streaming options. The aptly named In The Trees resort comprises four grand treehouses ranging in luxury level. On one end of the spectrum is The Grand Oak. With two full bathrooms, a primary bedroom with its own private jacuzzi, and a deck that encompasses the entire perimeter of the structure, The Grand Oak is glamping par excellence. Artful touches, such as “tree cookie” kitchen tiles, navy and emerald bath linens, and a dizzying “use caution while operating if you’ve imbibed adult beverages” spiral staircase complete the decadent digs. Only a hair less haute is the Spruce Suite, whose loft queen bed is perfect for cuddling with your significant other. There’s also double futons in the living room for insignificant others–er—we mean, additional guests. A fire pit with log benches is also at the ready for s’mores sessions and impromptu “Kumbaya-ing.” And for those who get their sticks and giggles by roughing it treehouse style, there’s The Byrdie and The Bogey Suites, which are sans running water but avec easily accessible outhouses, incredible views, and all the charms of simple living. For a hybrid forest-hotel experience, check out the Tree Yurt in Cumberland. Combining the features of a treehouse and a yurt, which is a round tent commonly used by Asian nomadic tribes, this quirky quarters was inspired by the owner’s experience in a traditional (i.e., grounded) yurt in Oregon. This oval office of sorts has everything one needs for camping among the conifers: hot plates, coffeemaker, minifridge, assorted pots and pans, woodburning stove, and a fluffy, comfy queen bed. Although it’s tempting to hunker down in this cozy circular space, if you do venture out, take advantage of the nearby apple orchards to gather some cobbler supplies. Finally, if space and saplings are what you crave, then head to Seguin in Georgetown. Named after the eponymous island downriver, Seguin comprises a triplet of treehouses, a cookhouse, and a gathering space that span roughly 21 acres. The Madawaska treehouse includes two
Inside The Grand Oak treehouse at In the Trees in Stoneham. All of the lumber to build the company's treehouses was sources and milled onsite. Ready to book? Visit inthetreesmaine.com. PHOTOS COURTESY OF IN THE TREES
www.bangormetro.com BANGOR METRO / 25
HOME & FAMILY
Looking up at The Spruce Suite treehouse at In the Trees in Stoneham. PHOTOS COURTESY OF IN THE TREES
structures, a king bed sleeping space and a kitchen/dining area, both of which have soothing water views, a hot tub, grill and fire pit, and kayaks and canoes upon request, should you want to grapple not just gaze at that river. With a similar dual structure layout, the Isle au Haut is accessible via a rope bridge and has a toaster oven, making it dream digs for the traveler who basks in the heights but hates baking. The Souhegan, the largest of Seguin’s treehouses, sleeps up to four people, with two king beds or four twin beds.With its heated floors and Scandanavian gas fireplace, it is particularly fitting for cold-blooded adventurers with wintertime wanderlust. The aforementioned treehouses can be rented individually or the entire property can be reserved (think weddings, corporate retreats, family reunions). All guests of the Seguin can elect to add on activities including but not limited to creative workshops, yoga classes, and sunset boat cruises, making the resort’s promise to “restore and inspire” guests more than just a pine dream.
REALTORS
26 / BANGOR METRO Autumn 2023
www.bangormetro.com BANGOR METRO / 27
PERSONAL FINANCE
Time to Travel RETIREMENT TRAVEL TIPS THAT WON'T BREAK THE BANK
etirement ushers in a new stage in life, one in which adults have ample free time to pursue their interests and hobbies. A 2014 MassMutual survey found that 72 percent of respondents reported feeling quite happy or extremely happy in retirement. Being able to travel when and where they desire may be a big component of this happiness. A study by Virtuoso found that travel factors significantly into the lives of today’s seniors. They spend more on travel than any other generation — an average of $11,077 a year. Travel spending is at the highest among people between the ages of 75 and 79. But retirment travel need not break the bank. Learning how to get the most bang for your traveling buck can help retirees make travel more affordable. · AVOID PEAK TRAVEL SEASONS. Many working families are restricted by school and work schedules, often limiting travel to summer and holiday breaks. The hospitality industry tends to raise their prices during these times of year. Retirees can travel any time they want. Booking trips during less busy times of year for tourism is a great way to save money. · CONSIDER A RENTAL AGREEMENT. Retirees who want to travel for many weeks or even months out of the year may want to think about renting their homes while they are gone. The money earned in rent can help offset the costs of travel.
28 / BANGOR METRO Autumn 2023
· THINK ABOUT ALTERNATIVE LIVING SITUATIONS. Seeing the country and traveling most of the time may be more doable if retirees forego the house entirely and opt for different residences. Many recreational vehicles are large enough to be full-time homes. Simply park the RV in a new spot each month for a different perspective. House boats can be an option for the marine-minded. · TRY A REPOSITIONING CRUISE. Cruising is a popular form of travel for seniors. Investopedia says cruise lines offer discount repositioning cruise trips when they need to move ships from one port to another, usually during the off-season. Unlike typical cruises where a ship will return to the port of origin, a repositioning cruise stops at several ports on the way and ultimately docks in a new end destination. · FIND AN INEXPENSIVE DESTINATION. For the cost of staying at a popular family resort for a week, you may be able to stay for double or triple the amount of time for about the same amount of money elsewhere. Weigh destinations carefully and compare costs. Think beyond the “popular” destinations around the world. Travel is a favorite pastime for retirees. Cost-saving strategies can make travel more budget-friendly for seniors who want to spend more time exploring.
PHOTO: MONKEY BUSINESS/ADOBE STOCK
R
COURTESY OF METRO CREATIVE
FEATURE
YOUR MAINE
bucket list WHAT ICONICALLY MAINE THINGS ARE ON YOUR TO-DO LIST?
THERE’S A REASON people travel from all over the world just to visit our great state and check it off their bucket list. Whether you prefer the smell of salty sea air or forest pines, working up a sweat or lounging lakeside, playing in the snow
or basking in the sunshine, the Pine Tree State has got you covered. With a wide variety of events, activities, and things to see in one of the most beautiful places on Earth, the only challenge is fitting it all in. It’s time to get started!
Monhegan Island Light, built in 1850, is the centerpiece of a popular island museum.
Visit the Maine Potato Blossom Festival and the August State Capitol building (right).
Visit Monhegan Island
Looking out at Manana Island from Monhegan.
30 / BANGOR METRO Autumn 2023
I like to call Monhegan Island the jewel of Penobscot Bay. Barely a square mile in size, it is rich in scenic gems such as rugged headlands and Cathedral Woods. Artists love to paint its purple lupine, granite lighthouse, and weather-beaten buildings. A 1948 shipwreck is also visually appealing. Getting to Monhegan is half the fun. Passenger ferries depart Port Clyde, New Harbor, and Boothbay Harbor. Call for reservations and seasonal schedules. On arriving, you might grab a crab roll and blueberry pie at an island cafe before hiking one of the varied trails. You could also quench your thirst at the Monhegan Brewing Company. The Island Inn, Monhegan House, and Trailing Yew are among favorite lodging spots. An overnight stay allows visitors to savor the island’s ambiance and understand why artists Andrew Wyeth and Rockwell Kent found it so intriguing. —RICHARD SHAW
PHOTOS: (MONHEGAN) PAGE EASTMAN; (POTATOES & CAPITOL) BDN FILE
Is “Explore a Maine Island” on your wish list? take a trip to Monhegan for the full Maine island experience.
The Maine Event CERTAIN EVENTS ARE A RITE OF PASSAGE FOR MAINERS AND VISITORS ALIKE.
Here are just a few annual happenings you should have on your list. • MAINE LOBSTER FESTIVAL IN ROCKLAND (AUGUST)
• WHOOPIE PIE FESTIVAL IN DOVER-FOXCROFT (JUNE)
• BANGOR PRIDE PARADE AND FESTIVAL (EVERY JUNE)
• NORTH ATLANTIC BLUES FESTIVAL IN ROCKLAND (JULY)
• U.S. NATIONAL TOBOGGAN CHAMPIONSHIPS IN CAMDEN (FEBRUARY)
• YARMOUTH CLAM FESTIVAL (JULY)
• KENDUSKEAG STREAM CANOE RACE IN BANGOR (APRIL) • POLAR PLUNGE ON KENNEBUNK BEACH (NEW YEAR’S DAY) • SNOWFEST AND SNODEO IN RANGELEY (JANUARY) • MAINE MAPLE SUNDAY (MARCH) • SOUTH BERWICK STRAWBERRY FESTIVAL (JUNE) • MOXIE FESTIVAL IN LISBON (JULY)
Don’t Miss...
Sept. 7-10, 2023 International Sea Plane Fly-In in Greenville
• PLOYE FESTIVAL IN FORT KENT (JUNE) • MAINE POTATO BLOSSOM FESTIVAL IN FORT FAIRFIELD (JULY) • WILD BLUEBERRY FESTIVAL IN MACHIAS (AUGUST) • BELFAST HARBOR FEST (AUGUST) • FRYEBURG FAIR (OCTOBER) • CROW OF MAINE BALLOON FEST IN PRESQUE ISLE (AUGUST) Watch seaplanes land on Moosehead Lake (or take a ride!) and enjoy the shops, crafts, food, and festivities!
Don’t Miss...
PHOTOS: (COMMON GROUND FAIR) SAWYER LOFTUS/ BDN FILE; (PLANE) ADOBE STOCK
Sept. 22-24, 2023 Common Ground Country Fair in Unity
Celebrate rural living with 1,000plus exhibitors and speakers, all focused on sustainable living and highlighting organic agriculture.
Steph Grant makes yarn from fur during last year’s Common Ground Fair.
www.bangormetro.com BANGOR METRO / 31
FEATURE
Climb Mount Battie in Camden Hills State Park
Worth the hype THERE’S A REASON SOME MAINE
My kids and I (with our dog in tow) hiked Mount Battie in Camden Hills State Park for the first time this summer. Whether you choose to hike through the woods or drive up (there’s a paved road to the top), you’ll be well rewarded with a stunning view of Camden Harbor and Penobscot Bay. For a little extra elevation, climb to the top of the 26-foottall stone Mount Battie Memorial Tower, erected in honor of local World War I veterans. The state park also offers camping sites, and with downtown Camden just minutes away and plenty of trails to explore, we might have to add it to next summer’s bucket list.
ATTRACTIONS GET EXTRA ATTENTION.
• HIKE ACADIA NATIONAL PARK From Sand Beach to Wonderland to the Carriage Roads to Thunder Hole to popovers at Jordan Pond, Acadia is a giver when it comes to outdoor adventures and fun. Bonus points if you plan ahead and catch the sunrise from the top of Cadillac Mountain. And while you’re on the island, don’t miss the Asticou Azalea Garden in Northeast Harbor. • CLIMB MOUNT KATAHDIN Head north to Maine’s highest mountain, the centerpiece of Baxter State Park and the pinnacle of the Appalachian Trail. Don’t forget to take a picture by Pockwockamus Rock on your way into the park.
—AMY ALLEN
• GO WHALE WATCHING • SKI SUGARLOAF • GO WHITE WATER RAFTING • ATTEND A CONCERT ON BANGOR’S WATERFRONT OR AT THOMPSON'S POINT IN PORTLAND
explore maine with friends
eat up MAINE DELICACIES TRED A TASTY LINE
spend time hiking maine trails with friends old + New
BETWEEN WEIRD AND DELICIOUS.
Most people dread Mondays and yearn for Fridays, but not me. A year ago I was invited into an Adventure Monday women’s hiking group. I soon called these journeys Meandering Mondays, where we soak up nature, exercise in the fresh air, and consume “sistership” conversation. We hike during all seasons on snowmobile trails, through woods and fields, in preserves and bogs, and along river edges and coastal shores. I’ve been introduced to Houston Brook Falls in Bingham, Barrows Falls between Blanchard and Abbott along the Piscataquis River, and Monroe Falls in Monroe, and my bucket list still includes seeing more falls across the state. (See page 20 for more waterfall hike ideas.) We even enjoyed a grandkids’ day when 12 of us, ages 4 to 81, roamed Moose Point State Park in Searsport. It was perfect for all of us. I wonder where next Monday will take us.
• EAT A LOBSTER ROLL Or try your hand at a whole lobster. While you’re at, add some Maine oysters, clams, mussels, scallops, and fish to your plate.
—ANNE GABBIANELLI 32 / BANGOR METRO Autumn 2023
• RED SNAPPER HOT DOGS • MAINE POTATOES Better still, grab a bag of new potatoes from a roadside stand in The County. • WILD BLUEBERRIES • WHOOPIE PIES • TRY MAINE MAPLE CANDY • DRINK A MOXIE
snap a pic with a
Giant troll
at coastal maine botanical gardens in Boothbay
Take a selfie PROVE YOU CHECKED IT OFF THE BUCKET LIST WITH A PHOTO AT THESE FAMED SITES.
• PAUL BUNYAN STATUE IN BANGOR At 31 feet tall, Paul has been worthy of a selfie since he was erected in 1959. • ANDRE THE SEAL STATUE IN ROCKPORT • AMERICA’S 1ST MILE SIGN IN FORT KENT
Explore…Giants at Coastal Maine Botanical Gardens (and visit Boothbay Harbor while you’re there, Windjammer Days in June)
• WITH A MOOSE For the ultimate Maine selfie, head out on a moose safari, or make it easy and stop by the Maine Wildlife Park in Gray for a guaranteed sighting. • GULF HAGAS IN BROWNVILLE • DUCK OF JUSTICE AT BANGOR POLICE DEPARTMENT • FARNSWORTH ART MUSEUM Great art abounds all over Maine. Don’t miss the chance to see work from the Wyeth family, Alex Katz, Edward Hopper, and more in Rockland.
visit a maine lighthouse YOU’LL FIND MORE THAN 60 LIGHTHOUSES (57 ARE STILL ACTIVE!) DOTTING MAINE’S
PHOTOS: (EXPLORING) ANNE GABBIANELLI: (MOUNT BATTIE, TROLL, BUNYAN) AMY ALLEN; (LIGHTHOUSE) RICHARD SHAW
ROCKY COASTLINE, IN ALL SHAPES & SIZES.
• PORTLAND HEAD LIGHT The oldest lighthouse in Maine (the original tower was first lit in 1791), Portland Head Light sits adjacent to Fort Williams Park in Cape Elizabeth. • CAPE NEDDICK LIGHT (NUBBLE LIGHT) IN YORK • OWL’S HEAD LIGHT NEAR ROCKLAND • WEST QUODDY HEAD LIGHTHOUSE IN LUBEC • ROCKLAND BREAKWATER LIGHTHOUSE • PEMAQUID POINT LIGHT IN BRISTOL • MARSHALL POINT LIGHTHOUSE IN PORT CLYDE
nearby lighthouses Day trippers don’t have to sail out to some remote island to enjoy two of eastern Maine’s most charming lighthouses. I have been visiting them since I was a child. Located less than an hour’s drive from my Bangor home, both are favorite picnicking spots. Visitors should mind the private property signs. Fort Point Lighthouse in Stockton Springs, built in 1857, is located in a state park situated at the head of Penobscot Bay. Historic signs explain the square light tower’s significance, and outline the history of nearby Fort Pownall, built in 1759 to guard the mouth of the Penobscot River. Across the bay is Dyce Head Lighthouse, owned by the town of Castine. Located at the north side of the entrance to Castine Harbor and near the lower Penobscot River, it was first lit in 1828, discontinued in 1937, and relighted in 2008. A wooden stairway leads to the shoreline below. —RICHARD SHAW www.bangormetro.com BANGOR METRO / 33
FEATURE
Camp Out in the Maine Woods Did You Know...
Some Maine Food makers offer tours. Raye’s Mustard Mill in Eastport even has a working museum!
If you enjoy camping in a tent or traveling around Maine in your RV, I would recommend booking at Lone Wolf Riverfront Campground in Andover. A few summers ago I went camping there with friends for the first time. I’ll never forget driving on the winding roads and seeing the thick morning fog on the green, lush mountains. Make sure to pack a camera because you’ll get all the best shots here! There are also ATV trails nearby for those who enjoy kicking up mud on a sunny day. Angel Falls is close enough for hikers to explore. There are even events on site for guests to attend throughout the camping season. Lone Wolf Riverfront Campground is also perfect for those who just want to relax in nature with a lawn chair and a cold Yeti cup.
Visit a Chocolate Factory tap into your inner child in Rockland
The way to a woman’s heart is through her stomach, and specifically through a lobster dinner… made of chocolate. At least that’s the case for this gal ever since I learned about Bixby Chocolate, purveyor of a plethora of gorgeous cocoa confections all made in Maine from responsibly sourced beans. In addition to the “lobster dinner” (which includes a 1-pound chocolate lobster, two peanut butter ganache claws, and two champagne bonbons), Bixby produces chocolate-covered nuts, drinking chocolate, bars in a spectrum of flavors (try the blueberry), and for those ornithophile gourmands, chocolate puffins. You can channel your inner Charlie and see all that ooey-gooey bean-to-bar magic by visiting Bixby’s factory in Rockland, no golden ticket required. —JOANNA O’LEARY
—MARISSA DONOVAN
live your best lake life Going upta camp takes on a whole new meaning at Quisisana Resort in Lovell. If you’re looking to elevate your lake life experience, a stay at this all-inclusive property on Kezar Lake is more than a relaxing getaway with five-star meals and endless activities for the entire family. One of the things that makes Quisisana unique is that every employee doubles as a performer in the resort’s nightly shows. Your server may be an actor, the chambermaids become chamber choir, the bartender a maestro. But generations of families don’t return to Quisisana year after year just for the dazzling entertainment and memorable dinners. There is a simplicity that echoes among the towering pines that creates a magic that is hard to duplicate. The cabins don’t have Wi-Fi or televisions, but you leave feeling connected to everything. —ERINNE MAGEE
explore the maine state house A few years ago I chaperoned a third-grade field trip to Augusta to visit the Maine State Museum and Maine State House. I was just as wide-eyed as the kids, touring the impressive copper-domed building and seeing inside the House and Senate chambers. Fun things to look for are black limestone strips in the floor that contain 500-million-year-old fossils, as well as historic presidental portraits and an underground connector that leads from the State House to the Cross State Office Building. The tunnel is lined with animal dioramas set in Maine’s different seasons. The Maine State House is open yearround, Monday-Friday from 8 a.m. to 5 p.m., with guided tours at 9 a.m. and noon. Next door is the Maine State Museum, which explores Maine’s history and natural science, with exhibits that include a three-story working mill, live trout, and even a moon rock. It’s a great way to learn a little more about our great state and gain new appreciation for the people who keep it running. —AMY ALLEN
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PHOTOS: (STATE HOUSE) BDN FILE; (CHOCOLATE) ADOBE STOCK
history on display in augusta
www.bangormetro.com BANGOR METRO / 35
FEATURE
Get a Little Weird • INTERNATIONAL CRYPTOZOOLOGY MUSEUM In Portland (and coming soon to Bangor) you’ll find the world’s only cryptology museum, featuring oddities and artifacts surrounding the study of unknown creatures like bigfoot and the abominable snowman — there’s even a hair sample on display! • LC BATES MUSEUM Located in Hinckley, this early 20th Century museum is full of unique cabinets of curiosities and Maine wildlife dioramas. • UMBRELLA COVER MUSEUM IN PEAKS ISLAND • TELEPHONE MUSEUM IN ELLSWORTH • MAINE COAST SARDINE HISTORY MUSEUM IN JONESPORT
Desert of Maine (while in Freeport, Giant LL Bean Boot too)
take a trip to the desert... of maine Maine’s not exactly known for its deserts, but maybe it should be. The Desert of Maine in Freeport is a weird and wonderful place, with 20 acres of sand dunes in the middle of the forest. When you’re done exploring the dunes, there’s mini golf, an incredible playground, fossil digs for kids, glamping tents, camp sites, train rides, and more. My daughter says her perfect day includes a trip to the Desert of Maine and shopping for fishing gear at nearby L.L. Bean (don’t forget a selfie with the iconic giant boot for extra bucket list points) — to each their own! —AMY ALLEN
PHOTOS: (CAMEL) AMY ALLEN; (GRAVE) BDN FILE
• THE THOMPSON ICE HOUSE HARVESTING MUSEUM IN SOUTH BRISTOL
MAKE THINGS INTERESTING AND BRING HOME A GREAT STORY AT THESE, AHEM, “UNUSUAL” MAINE ATTRACTIONS
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spooky Spots
MANY MAINE SPOTS ARE KNOWN TO BE A LITTLE HAUNTED.
Halloween Fun BY MARISSA DONOVAN
AUTUMN IS THE PERFECT TIME TO GO EXPLORING OUR MOST POSSESSED AND CREEPY SITES.
• STEPHEN KING’S HOUSE People travel far and wide to visit the King of Horror’s home in Derry, er, Bangor. For the full King experience, book an SK Tours of Maine excursion to see nearby locations of inspiration for the writer’s books and movies. • THOMAS HILL STANDPIPE TOURS Speaking of Stephen King, keep an eye out for creepy clowns while touring this historic landmark that opens to the public once per season. Mark your calendar for Oct. 4 and Dec. 11 from 3-6 p.m. • MOUNT HOPE CEMETERY If you like exploring old burying grounds, Bangor’s Mount Hope Cemetery can’t be beat. It’s the final resting place of U.S. Vice President Hannibal Hamlin and other local celebrities, and made a cameo with Stephen King himself in the original “Pet Sematary” movie. • FORT KNOX Ghost hunters love to explore Fort Knox in Prospect. Throughout October, the site ups the creepy ante with Fright at the Fort (see event listing at right). • B52 CRASH SITE Just outside of Greenville, on the southern slope of Elephant Mountain, is the crash site of a U.S. Air Force Boeing B-52C Stratofortress. The pieces of wreckage and aircraft debris cover several acres of forest.
Visit a Cursed Grave So the legend goes, Col. Jonathan Buck, founder of the town of Bucksport, was cursed after ordering a witch put to death by burning. As she died, her leg rolled out of the bonfire and she cursed Buck’s tomb, which to this day bears a stain that looks very much like a leg and foot. Looking for even more spooky spots in Bucksport? Check out the grave of Sarah Ware in Oak Hill Cemetery, who was decapitated in 1898. The mysterious crime was never solved, and now her ghost supposedly haunts nearby Silver Lake.
TIS THE SEASON FOR HALLOWEEN HAPPENINGS.
Mark these haunted events on your calendar so you don’t miss any of the spooktacular fun happening all around Maine.
SEPTEMBER 30 NO SCARE EVENT AT MAINEIAC MANOR Maineiac Manor in the Bangor Mall will open their ghastly gates with their first No Scare Event of the season from 4-7 p.m. This immersive walk through allows you to experience the creepy artistry that goes into a haunted house attraction. Additional dates and details can be found online. MAINEIACMANOR.COM OCTOBER 1 HALLOWEEN: CELESTIAL ORIGINS Stargazers will enjoy learning about how Halloween began through the night sky at the Versant Power Astronomy Center located at the University of Maine Orono campus. The family friendly event will be held from 2-3 p.m. ASTRO.UMAINE.EDU OCTOBER 6 TRAIL OF TERROR HAUNTED WALK Beware of the creepy carnival themed event that is taking over a beloved Saco waterpark. Starting Oct. 6 at 6:30 p.m., Aquaboggan Water Park will be holding their annual Trail of Terror. Additional dates and details can be found online. OOB365.COM OCTOBER 14 MAIN EVENT AT MAINEIAC MANOR All the scare actors will be in full swing for the first night of the Main Event from 3-7 p.m. at Maineiac Manor. Thrill-seekers will enter in groups together without a guide. Can they handle the sinister secrets? Additional dates and details can be found on their website and Facebook page. MAINEIACMANOR.COM OCTOBER 14 FRIGHT AT THE FORT Bucksport’s paranormal hotspot is continuing its tradition in making you scared of the dark. Tickets for Fright at The Fort are sold only online by time slots from 5:30-8:45 p.m. Additional dates and details can be found at the Fright at the Fort Facebook page and their website. FORTKNOXMAINE.COM OCTOBER 28 THE GREAT PUMPKIN BALL AT THE STATE THEATRE Monster Mash the night away as EqualityMaine and the Equality Community Center present a thrilling dance party from 7 p.m. to midnight. STATETHEATREPORTLAND.COM OCTOBER 29 FRIGHTFUL SCAVENGER HAUNT AT FORT KNOX Little Halloween enthusiasts can explore Fort Knox in costume through a daytime scavenger hunt. Starting at 10 a.m. children can track down monsters on their checklist, while appreciating the historical landmark. FORTKNOXMAINE.COM www.bangormetro.com BANGOR METRO / 37
FEATURE
* DO N' T FO RG ET TO CH EC K W HAT TI M E TH E PA RK OP EN S! !
E * DO W E NE ED AT A R T I C L * FIND TH G SE RVAT IO NRE I K I I LY H NS ? AB OU T F A M ? K S E D K C HE T R A I LS - C E OU T W H E R * FIGURE L A ED LOC T O E AT . N E NS. D LY O P T IO N K I D - F RI E
Family Fun: ORGANIZED OVERWHELMED TRYING TO PLAN FAMILY ACTIVITIES? ONE BANGOR MOM OFFERS TIPS TO REIN IN THE CHAOS AND STICKY NOTES WITH A SIMPLE SPREADSHEET.
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“Then it became kind of a running joke when I’d be in meetings or social situations and people would say something about ‘What is there to do around here?’ Someone would laugh and say, ‘Ask Tanya about her spreadsheet!’” We chatted with Emery to learn about how she created her spreadsheet and tips on how to start your own. WHAT'S ON THE LIST? Emery has thought of just about everything in her spreadsheet, covering 241 destinations — most of them in Maine. She breaks her information down into several categories to help her quickly choose an adventure. • Driving time • Weather dependent • Things to do • Priority trip for the year • Town/State • Description + Notes In the description section, Tanya tracks entrance fees, opening and closing times, driving directions, websites, ameni-
ties, and any need-to-know tips for that particular location. FAMILIES ON A BUDGET Emery includes a variety of trips that can range in cost from a couple of bucks for ice cream to a couple hundred for overnight accommodations — this makes her spreadsheet versatile and easy to use since it covers every imaginable type of trip in Maine. “There are so many wonderful familyfriendly things to do that don’t cost much; that’s one of my favorite things to share,” said Emery. “A walk or bike ride in Bangor’s City Forest or a walk on the Orono Bog Boardwalk with ice cream afterward can make for an amazing afternoon for a family.” Emery suggests checking out the Wonderland Trail (see page 45 for details) and Ship’s Harbor Trails on Mount Desert Island for those looking for a staycation-style adventure that won’t squeeze the wallet. Pack a picnic and spring for ice cream while you’re out and about. “For those less inclined to hike, explore the Telephone Museum in Ellsworth or the
PHOTOS: (KIDS) TANYA EMERY; (OTHERS) ADOBE STOCK
M
aine is a beautiful state where we are lucky to have four seasons to spend our free time exploring, relaxing, and creating shared memories with friends and family. But when you have kids, all that free time can easily get bogged down with planning those memorymaking trips and adventures. “I used to save notes, maps, articles, links, screenshots, and ideas in a million different places,” said Tanya Emery, a Bangor mom who loves organizing data. Anytime Emery would find a new interesting family vacation idea, she would save it, but eventually, she had too much information in too many places, so she started a spreadsheet. “It takes almost no time to add a new item to the list, and every once in a while, I go in and clean it up a little bit. It has just grown organically over time,” she said. Emery's spreadsheet quickly grew to include day trips, road trips, and everything in between. Before she knew it, she was sharing it with friends, family, colleagues, and even folks new to the Bangor area who needed suggestions on where to go and what to do.
BY SARAH COTTRELL
DREAD YOUR KIDS ASKING, "WHAT ARE WE GOING TO DO TODAY?" BE READY WITH FUN IDEAS LIKE A TRIP TO THE SCHOODIC
AREA OR STRAWBERRY PICKING!
* NOTE DAY TRIP S
ADVE NT UR E ID EA S
Penobscot Maritime Museum in Searsport,” Emery said. “Hirundo Wildlife Refuge is an incredible nature preserve to explore and has a fully accessible trail called Trail of the Senses that all can enjoy.” TRIPS WITH KIDS Planning any trip with kids can quickly get complicated, and that’s where the magic of a spreadsheet comes in handy. Emery includes notes on which trips would be easy and which would require more energy. Emery suggests considering your family routines and determining which parts are essential to keeping the peace. For example, ask yourself the following questions: • Are your kids morning birds or do they need extra time to adjust? • Do your kids struggle with transitions like leaving an activity? • Do your kids do well with crowds of people? • How long can your kids ride comfortably in a car? • What kinds of food do your kids prefer?
“There are so many things you can do to make car travel a little easier and more fun for little ones with simple things from the dollar store,” said Emery. “Pinterest is a gold mine for car travel hacks, and many work for airplane rides, too.” HOW TO START YOUR OWN SPREADSHEET Anyone can create their own spreadsheet for planning family free time. The trick is to start small and stick with what you know. “Start with something like a bingo card. Think about the types of activities your family gets the most joy from, that doesn’t feel overwhelming from a planning perspective, and fits well into your family’s life,” said Emery. Here are a few suggestions to get started: • Indoor activities like public pools, movies, and museums • Outdoor activities like playgrounds, walking trails, on-the-water adventures, mini-golf, and farm tours • Day trips to local towns • Overnight trips at campsites or inns
+ FU N
IN A SP RE AD SH EE T - AN D NE VE R HAVE TO GO SE AR CH IN G FO R SO M ET HI NG TO DO !
If you want your list to be detailed, consider adding contact information, fees, hours of operation, where to eat, and how long it takes to get to and from. KEEP IT SIMPLE Before your spreadsheet gets too complicated, remember why you’re creating it — to make planning your adventures simple and less stressful. “My favorite part of traveling with my children is the wonder in their eyes when they are seeing or experiencing something new, and it’s connecting with their heart and mind,” Emery said. “It doesn’t have to be big, like the Statue of Liberty, although it certainly can be. It can be something as simple as watching them marvel at Thunder Hole or seeing two baby foxes play together. When you catch a glimpse into that magic of a child’s inner self and the joy they feel, it’s just so special and worth all the planning and work that goes into it.” www.bangormetro.com BANGOR METRO / 39
FEATURE
TAKE A
TRIP YOU DON’T HAVE TO TRAVEL FAR FOR AN AMAZING VACATIONLAND ADVENTURE STAYCATION. DAY TRIP. HOLI-STAY. TOURIST IN YOUR OWN TOWN. MINI-VACATION. Whatever you want to call it, living in Vacationland means you don’t have to travel far for an epic getaway. As the out-of-staters head back home, autumn is the perfect time to explore all Maine has to offer. We asked our writers to share some of their favorite Maine vacay spots and day trip adventures. Time to pack up the car!
FORT KENT CARIBOU
MILLINOCKET
LAKE ST. GEORGE
UNION
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LAKE ST. GEORGE ADVENTURE Tucked between Belfast and Augusta, you’ll find Lake St. George State Park. It’s the perfect spot for a day trip or camping adventure, with a beautiful lake to swim in and lifeguards on duty through the summer months. Camp sites are located right along the lake, and there’s plenty of space for picnicking. And on the way home, stop by Lake St. George Brewing Company’s tap room for an adult beverage. NORTHERN MAINE FOLIAGE & BREWERY TOUR If you’ve always want to visit Northern Maine, autumn is the perfect season for spotting amazing foliage (and stunning sunflower fields in Presque Isle early in the season). Why not make it even more fun by visiting some local breweries along the way? Stop by Knife Edge Brewing in Millinocket at the New England Outdoors Center, then head up the highway and beyond to Caribou to visit Northern Maine Brewing Co. Next, follow Route 116 (with a stop at Eureka Hall in Stockholm) to Fort Kent for a visit to First Mile Brewing Company. FOODIE TRIP TO UNION BY WAY OF LINCOLNVILLE CENTER Looking for a road trip paved with delicious food and drink and stunning views? Kick off from Lincolnville Beach and head west to the Lincolnville General Store for a tasty snack. Then head toward Appleton Ridge to see the blueberry barrens turn a fiery red for autumn, before dinner at Sterlingtown Public House & Beer Garden in Union.
An aerial view of Lake St. George.
ROUTE 9
BANGOR GRAHAM LAKE
BLACKWOODS SCENIC BYWAY
MACHIAS ROQUE BLUFFS
TRAVEL THE AIRLINE ROAD TO MACHIAS
PHOTOS: RICHARD SHAW
BY RICHARD SHAW
(From top to bottom) The beach at Roque Bluffs State Park. The view of Cherryfield near Route 1. There’s no problem finding blueberries in Down East Maine. Blueberry Hill along Route 1 in Jonesboro.
I like to take the road less traveled, and that includes my favorite circuitous route from Bangor to Machias. The entire length, one way, is a smidge over 100 miles, and the time behind the wheel is about two hours. My reward is a panoply of blueberry barrens and white churches. Opportune times are in June for the Margaretta Days Revolutionary War Festival and in August for the Machias Wild Blueberry Festival. Beginning my Down East journey in Bangor, I take the Airline Road (Route 9) from Brewer to Clifton, where I branch off onto Route 180, driving up Rebel Hill, onward to Otis, with views of Graham Lake, into part of Ellsworth Falls on Route 1A, then onto Routes 179 and 200 through Waltham, Eastbrook and Franklin. Stunning mountain and lakefront panoramas await on the Blackwoods Scenic Byway (Route 182), which winds to Cherryfield and includes the storied Catherine Hill. Then it is Route 1 all the way to Machias. Major communities along my route are Columbia Falls, Harrington, and Milbridge, a one-time shipbuilding capital. Breathtaking scenery awaits on Blueberry Hill in Jonesboro before arriving in Machias. Favorite side trips are to Roque Bluffs State Park and Jasper Beach in Machiasport. In the end, it is the fine people who draw me Down East, year after year.
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FEATURE
SOUTHWEST HARBOR BASS HARBOR
SEAWALL WONDERLAND
VISIT THE QUIET SIDE OF THE ISLAND Within an hour’s drive of Bangor, is one of Maine’s most famed and iconic vacation spots: Mount Desert Island. And while Bar Harbor attracts the crowds, there is a whole other side of the island to explore. The quiet side. Southwest Harbor may not get as much attention, but that’s not a bad thing. The quaint village has plenty to offer — and you might even find a parking spot.
STAY AT THE CLAREMONT
A photo of the 2010 Claremont Croquet Classic at the Claremont Hotel in Southwest Harbor.
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The Claremont is one of those hotels that is a destination in itself, making it a top staycation spot for Mainers. Visually, the property is stunning with its meticulous grounds, bold shades of color, beautiful landscape and iconic views of the sound. But The Claremont isn’t just a pretty face. It’s a place you can do or a place you can just be. Activities include yoga, croquet, garden tours, mixology classes, live music, and a full-service spa. For a touch of privacy, the heated pool is accompanied by bright pink and green cabanas. There’s even a cottage decked out in fitness equipment. Going to the gym has never felt so charming. When it comes to food, The Claremont feels more like a resort than a historic inn. Even if you don’t stay at the hotel as a guest, it’s worth taking a drive to catch a meal at one of the restaurants. Watch the boats come in and out of the harbor at Boston River Fish Camp, which sits over the shoreline, offering quick bites and a casual place to unwind. The Little Fern is a touch more formal, with reimagined versions of classic Maine dishes. Finally, if you’re catching the sunrise at Cadillac, swing by the Buttercup Bakery for a sweet treat.
PHOTOS: (THIS PAGE AND BASS HARBOR) BDN FILE; (SEAWALL AND WONDERLAND) AMY ALLEN
BY ERINNE MAGEE
EXPLORE THE QUIET SIDE OF ACADIA NATIONAL PARK BY AMY ALLEN Acadia National Park is more than just Cadillac Mountain, Sand Beach, and Thunder Hole. The park stretches all the way over to the Schoodic Peninsula, Isle Au Haut, and to the quiet side of Mount Desert Island. Just beyond Southwest Harbor, is one of two campgrounds with the park on MDI.
(Top left) Beach roses in bloom at Seawall. (Below left) Walking the Wonderland Trail at Acadia. (Top) The view driving into the Seawall area of Acadia. (Above) Finding treasures in the many tidal pools at Wonderland. (Below) Exploring the oceanfront at Bass Harbor Head Light Station.
SEAWALL Named for the natural wall of rocks along the shore created over time by storm surges, Seawall is a stunner, with oceanfront parking and picnic areas. Within walking distance to the ocean is Seawall Campground, where my kids and I ventured this summer for the first time. The campground is beautiful and wooded, perfect for tents or RVs, and its close proximity to Southwest Harbor makes it easy to grab firewood and any forgotten supplies. The campground is also dog friendly. WONDERLAND Between Seawall and Bass Harbor, you’ll find Acadia’s Wonderland with a 1.4-mile dog-friendly trail that leads to the ocean. The easy family-friendly walk meanders through forests (we spooked a huge deer on the trail earlier this summer), funky granite outcroppings, and ends in a rocky shoreline with plenty of tidal pools to explore.
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FEATURE
CALAIS
ORONO
BUCKSPORT
ELLSWORTH
TRAVEL THE MAINE SCULPTURE TRAIL
(From Top To Bottom) James Boyd’s Nature’s Grace in Eastport. Tribute To Life, created by Ian Newbery of Sweden, is found on the Schoodic Peninsula. Find Camel Country on the Bangor Waterfront, a piece created by Koichi Ogino of Japan.
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Last summer, I drove around Down East to photograph the 34 granite sculptures collectively known as the Maine Sculpture Trail. They stretch from Calais to Bucksport and northward to Bangor, Orono, and Old Town. The public art collection was the brainchild of Steuben resident Jesse Salisbury, who organized five sculpture symposia from 2007 to 2014. The Schoodic International Sculpture Symposium was an artist-in-residency program that drew talent from around the globe. Watching artists in the Schoodic Peninsula carve artwork out of rough granite was an amazing experience. Most of the sculptures are easy to locate, such as the ones titled Dialog, created in 2009 by Roland Mayer of Germany and located at Lamoine State Park, and Sisters, sculpted in 2007 by Roy Patterson of Maine, which sits in front of the Southwest
PHOTOS: RICHARD SHAW
BY RICHARD SHAW
(Above) Maine Sculpture Trail artwork in Bucksport, created in 2014 by Matthew Foster of Maine. The piece is titled Before The Wind.
Harbor Public Library. A few others might require some asking around to find, such as Transitory, carved in 2007 by Dominika Griesgraber of Poland and hidden near Milbridge’s Narraguagus River. Be prepared to be awed by the variety of sculptural styles along the trail and also by the spirit of international camaraderie. My personal favorite, located in Eastport, is a granite leaf and sail titled Nature’s Grace, created in 2011 by Canada’s James Boyd. www.bangormetro.com BANGOR METRO / 45
FEATURE
COUSINS ISLAND
CHEBEAGUE ISLAND
GREAT DIAMOND ISLAND
PORTLAND
PEAKS ISLAND
FERRY TO CHEBEAGUE ISLAND A yellow school bus transported us from a parking lot in Yarmouth to the ferry on Cousins Island. This would be a getaway without wheels. From Cousins Island, a quick ferry ride takes passengers to Chebeague. Some are islanders, carting their groceries and other necessities from the mainland. And some are visitors, like us, hoping to catch a slower pace of life for a couple of days. The island’s sole accommodation is the historic Chebeague Island Inn, which is perched on a hill with sweeping views of Casco Bay. I was immediately drawn to the porch, where the sun comes around midday until sunset, offering the ideal spot to have coffee, play board games, read the paper, or simply let your gaze soak in the surroundings. We walked twice to Hamilton Beach, a quiet spot with a long stretch of sand and enough shells and seaglass to delight little collectors. Back at the inn, we feasted on creative twists to classic seafood dishes. As the only restaurant on the island that’s open for all three meals, a good mix of guests and locals fill the dining room, making the property feel more like a community than a hotel.
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(From top to bottom) Teeing off with a view of the ocean at Great Chebeague Golf Course. Collecting seaglass on the beach. Passengers disembark from the Chebeague Island Ferry on Cousins Island.
PHOTOS: (FERRY, GOLF) BDN FILE PHOTOS/COURTESY OF THE FORECASTER; (SEAGLASS AND SUNSET) ADOBE STOCK
BY ERINNE MAGEE
www.bangormetro.com BANGOR METRO / 47
FEATURE
A family watches arriving planes next to the new airport terminal sign in 1967.
FROM A VISION TO A
THRIVING ENTERPRISE HOW GODFREY FIELD BECAME AN INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT
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er offered more than a mile of cleared, flat land for an airstrip. In April of 1926, ground was broken for a runway, which today is known as Godfrey Boulevard, the main entrance to Bangor International Airport. In 1931, regular air passenger service by Boston-Maine Airways made daily round trips from Bangor to Boston with a stop in Portland. The airfield was a draw for Amelia Earhart, who visited twice, with the second visit designated as Woman’s Day. In his book, Bergquist wrote, “A commonly held perception was that the wives of businessmen perceived flying as dangerous and thus discouraged their husbands from using aircraft for business trips. … Amelia hoped to dispel that notion.” International interest grew beginning with Pan American, and soon the City of Bangor collaborated with Godfrey to create additional runway space. With the funds and manpower of a federal work program, multiple upgrades were achieved, drawing in more air traffic. Godfrey Field was soon renamed Bangor Airport, and the city finally
completed the purchase of the airfield from Godfrey in 1940. During this time, as World War II raged in Europe, the War Department held many talks with city officials about establishing an air base. The result of those talks was announced by a headline in the Bangor Daily News on Aug. 19, 1940: “Army Giving Bangor Green Light as Air Base.” The 43rd Bombardment Group and 8th Air Base Group came to call Bangor their new home with more than 2,500 personnel on base. In January of 1941, the War Department opened bids for what was said to be the largest construction project in Bangor since the rebuilding from the Great Fire of 1911. “World events dictated the need for national defense which transformed the Bangor Airport into a facility beyond expectation,” Bergquist wrote. The west side of Bangor evolved from the once graveled landing strips of the original Godfrey Field to become known as the Bangor Army Air Base under the guise of the U.S. Army Air Corps and soon after became known as the U.S. Army Air Force. The base
PHOTOS: (POSTCARD) COURTESY OF RICHARD SHAW; (BOMBER CREW) COURTESY OF BANGOR PUBLIC LIBRARY; (OTHERS) BDN FILE
W
e’ve all had occasion to zip in and out of Bangor International Airport, but have you ever wondered how this local and easily accessible airport came into being? We have Edward Rawson Godfrey to thank. Godfrey was born in 1877 in Bangor and became a lawyer and savvy businessman. His vision for some farmland along Bangor’s Union Street a century ago led to a $24 million enterprise today. Former Hermon resident David Bergquist wrote the book “Bangor in World War II.” He wrote that Godfrey, from an early age, was fascinated with the experiments of the Wright brothers. He understood the physics behind flying, and he understood how the City of Bangor could benefit from the presence of aircraft. The War Department recognized Bangor’s strategic location to Europe for national defense. However, it was Godfrey who capitalized on this opportunity. In 1925, he bought that farmland owned by Charles Morse and the neighboring land owned by Frank Rich. These parcels togeth-
BY ANNE GABBIANELLI
(Left) B-17 Bomber Crew circa 1943 at Dow Army Airfield. (Right) Amelia Earhart greets 10-year-old Joanne Jordan at Bangor Municipal Airport in August 1934. Joanne was the daughter of BDN publisher Fred Jordan.
was literally a city within a city. It was an integral hub of not only the City of Bangor but played a key role in World War II. Houlton native James Dow was among the American airmen in training waiting for the call overseas when his plane crashed over New York state, claiming his life. The Bangor base was then officially named Dow Army Airfield in January 1942 in his honor. Just five years later, Dow Army Field became Dow Air Force Base. Bangor historian Richard Shaw reflected on the base. “Its influence was everywhere. At one time, in the late 1950s and a bit later, Bangor's population was about 39,000.” Bangor’s population is less than 32,000 today. “I had numerous ‘base brats’ (an affectionate term) as classmates in the city’s school system.” Neighborhoods were developed to accommodate the influx of soldiers and their families. There was what was called GI Village near Union Street not too far from downtown; Old and New Capehart and Bangor Gardens were all constructed for military housing in the 1950s.
In 1968 when the base closed, the 2,000 acres of land was turned over to the city and renamed Bangor International Airport. This left a sizable and notable void in the community, yet the City of Bangor had a vision for its future. BGR, as it is known in the aviation world, grew exponentially under the direction of the late Peter D’Errico. He was the airport’s longest serving director, who prior had been the city’s economic development director and Dow Base reuse coordinator. “Dad had tremendous knowledge and understood the importance of the Guard,” his son, Michael, recalled. “Half the stuff belonged to the military, allowing the airport to be open 24-7. Whenever everybody else was snowed in, Bangor was always open.” During D’Errico’s 20-year stint, the airport grew with a $2.2 million domestic terminal, an international terminal, and a hotel. In 1991, another milestone for the airport was marked when the American Troop Greeters were born, welcoming American soldiers en route home from Operation
Desert Storm. Today, the museum is housed at the airport with an impressive display of commemorative coins waiting to be named in the Guinness Book of World Records. In 2001, the American Society of Civil Engineers named the airport as a Maine Historic Civil Engineering Landmark for the conversion from military to civilian use. “In 1941, there were three runways, and today we have one that is 11,440 by 200 feet, all shared with the National Guard and tenants,” Airport Operations Officer Terry Spencer said. While exploring the property, Spencer noted the footprints of hangars, buildings and more remnants of the once robust military presence that is disappearing little by little. It’s been said that no matter the aircraft, civilian or military, BGR can handle it. What started as Edward Godfrey’s vision evolved from a simple air strip to an Air Force base to Bangor International Airport, sporting nearly 700,000 passengers last year and hosting 25 tenants, including the Maine Air and Army National Guards and the longest standing tenant: General Electric. www.bangormetro.com BANGOR METRO / 49
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THE VIEW FROM HERE
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THE Almost Empty NEST BY EMILY MORRISON
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shower with one child while leaving the bathroom door open, listening for the sounds of two more or a possible house fire. My whole life wouldn’t resemble one long string of doctor’s appointments, soccer games, and visits to various playgrounds, libraries, and movie theaters within a 30-minute radius. I could enjoy long showers, go for long runs, and take the dogs on long walks. I could get my nails done, read romance books, and feel zero guilt about watching YouTube tutorials on the transformative power of highlighting and contouring one’s face. The thing is, I recently had lunch with my mentor, and she’s now a grandma of three, a wonderfully busy, happy retiree who golfs with her husband, gardens in her spare time, and meets with up her girlfriends for lunch, and I’m the age that she was when I met her. Two of my three babies are headed off to college this fall, and I’ll only have one child left in the nest. And all the time I’ve always wanted lies before me like an unopened wedding present, but I wish I could ship it back unwrapped and tell my younger self, “You don’t really need it, you know.” Just when I grew used to the idea of never being alone in the bathroom, suddenly, I could put in two more, and there’ll be no one around to use them. I suppose what I’m mourning isn’t the empty bathrooms. Not the constant grocery shopping, the never-ending loads of laundry, or the creative schedule-juggling of three kids in three extracurriculars — it’s their nearness I’ll miss the most. I’ll miss the ability to look across a room and see all of my children in it. To stare at them on the couch as they watch one more episode of “Friends.” To see them make food and remember some old funny story about coloring themselves green while they eat. Mostly, I’ll just miss them. They were my feral little animals, and I’ve loved every minute of making them human.
PHOTO: CELESTE/ADOBE STOCK
YEARS AGO, when I was a young, teaching mom, I used to rush out of my classroom at the bell to pick up my children. Jack was in daycare, Meg went to preschool, and Addie had started kindergarten. Fortunately, if we did the pick up at the end of the day, my husband’s parents could do the drop off. Every morning they’d park in the back parking lot of our school and wait for our van to arrive. All we had to do was figure out a way to get three kids up, dressed, and fed before 7:30 a.m. Most mornings, they ate, combed their hair, and attempted to dress themselves from their booster seats. As a result, our Honda Odyssey was the world’s first unintentional RV because they did every recreational activity possible in that thing. They watched movies from a portable DVD player. They colored pictures and left their crayons to melt into the back seat. They even colored themselves. On her way to her first Taylor Swift concert, Meg turned herself green as a special present for Taylor. A little later, Jack painted his entire body the same color. “Look, Mumma! I’m the ’Credible Hulk!” he cried. Imagine glancing into your rearview mirror to discover two of your kids have turned green. I always thought Addie would turn, but she never did. Those were some marvelous moments, watching our babies quirky evolution from feral animals to human beings. During that time, my mentor’s daughters were in college. She arrived at school a whole hour before me and stayed two hours after I dashed out, and I wondered what my life would be like if I had such unencumbered stretches to concentrate on my craft. Oh, the essays I could read and comment on. The dazzling lesson plans I could make. The books I would have time to preread or reread or just plain read. I wouldn’t have to hire a babysitter so I could take a run or
EMILY MORRISON is a high school English teacher, freelance writer and editor from coastal Maine. She is living happily-ever-after with her handsome husband, three beautiful children and two beloved dogs. And a cat.