[225] Magazine - April 2021

Page 85

TA ST E / /

Co-owner Jasmine Lombrage shares a plate of slow-cooked Curry Goat with rice and plantains.

Head to the restaurant’s bar for the Bullfish’s take on the Dark & Stormy or nonalcoholic tropical drinks like passion fruit or hibiscus punch.

THE BASICS: Owners Angel and Jasmine Lombrage took over Bullfish in summer 2019 and amped up the restaurant’s existing Caribbean theme with dishes from their respective Haitian and Bahamian heritages. It brings a unique twist to the restaurant options just outside LSU’s campus. WHAT’S A MUST: Warm up with the Soup Joumou, loaded with chicken, greens and potatoes. Snack on the fried pork bites and pickled veggies of the Haitian Griot appetizer. For an entree, the Curry Goat is slowcooked to perfection, and the Jerk Shrimp is swimming in a spicy brown gravy.

R E S TA U R A N T R E V I E W

The Bullfish Bar + Kitchen   BY D.J. B E AU T ICIA // P H OTOS B Y CO L L I N R I C HI E Our food critic’s name may be false, but the credentials are not. This gastronome has studied the history, cultivation, preparation, science and technology of food for more than 30 years. thebullfishbar.com 4001 Nicholson Drive, Suite D Tuesday-Thursday, 11 a.m.-8 p.m. Friday-Saturday, 11 a.m.-9 p.m.

YOU DON’T OFTEN find South Louisianian and Jamaican and Haitian cuisines in the same restaurant. But after reading about co-owner Angel Lombrage’s heritage, it became clear his French Creole family lineage and Caribbean influence from the family’s stopover in the French West Indies led to a most interesting confluence of

culinary influences once they settled here in South Louisiana. At this restaurant south of LSU, we kicked off our experience with the Griot and Jamaican Beef Patties appetizers. Served with pikliz, a Haitian pickled vegetable relish, the Griot’s fried pork bites were slightly crisp from

the fryer and tender with barbecue honey notes. Beware of those pikliz, though. The vinegary crisp vegetables will draw you in, but the heat of fresh peppers will shock your tastebuds and scorch your tongue in the nicest way possible. The Jamaican Beef Patties had a flaky bright yellow, mildly flavored crust with a smear of meat that was ground to almost a pureed consistency. It was quite delightful. A tart salmoncolored sauce accompanied this appetizer, but the patties were nice on their own. The seemingly simple execution made for an interesting and satisfying starter. Soups loaded with so many greens are rare around town, but that’s what we got with the Soup Joumou. Listed 225batonrouge.com  |  [225] April 2021

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