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Features 14 18 22

Catalan theatre Jewish Barcelona Vintage Vespas

Regulars 06 07 08 11 13 26 29 36 58

On our web An inside look The month Columns Interview: Michael Witty M5: Catalan cheese On Gastronomy Back page


Food & Drink


From the Senior Editor: We’ve got a mixed bag of features this month. First up, Alx Phillips delves behind the scenes of Catalan theatre to discover initiatives taking place to open it up to the world. Nick Lloyd explores another historic angle of Barcelona, specifically the fate of the city’s medieval Jewish community, and Dirk Engelhardt talks to serious fans of classic Vespas. We also have an M5 special on Catalan cheese, somewhere to find authentic Chinese food, a Rick Stein tapas recipe and news of uptown gourmet sandwich bars, so food lovers are well catered for. In the culture section, there’s a lot of dance, both live and in an exhibition on the Ballets Russes, as well as our music picks for the month featuring Elbow, The Drums and YES. Other highlights include an interview with Michael Witty, whose celebrated walks have been running for 20 years this month, news of the first Metropolitan Photo Collage and Scoop’s commentary on the possible end of the world next year. Hannah Pennell

Business Jobs

Publisher Creative Media Group, S.L. Managing Director Esther Jones Senior Editor Hannah Pennell Editor Katy MacGregor Art Director Aisling Callinan Sales Director Rainer Hobrack Account Executive Richard Cardwell Financial Manager Andrea Moreno Editorial Assistants Max Bentley and Lauren Reed Design Assistant Isolda Piza Sales Assistants Tashoma Lemard and Chloe Pera Contributors Jonathan Bennett, Lucy Brzoska, Vera Ciria, Dirk Engelhardt, Roger de Flower, Meredith Gales, Nick Lloyd, Alx Phillips, Tara Stevens and Nicola Thornton Photographers Jasna Boudard, Lucy Brzoska, Mónica Navarro, Richard Owens and Lee Woolcock Cover photo Oliver Hinds Illustrator Ben Rowdon Editorial Office: Enric Granados 48, entlo. 2ª, 08008 Barcelona. Tel. 93 451 4486, Fax. 93 451 6537; editorial@barcelona-metropolitan.com Advertising: ads@barcelona-metropolitan.com. General enquiries: info@barcelona-metropolitan.com. www.barcelona-metropolitan.com Printer: Litografia Rosés. Depósito Legal: B35159-96 The views expressed in Barcelona Metropolitan are not necessarily those of the publisher. Reproduction, or use, of advertising or editorial content herein, without express permission, is prohibited.

Find your nearest distribution point on www.barcelona-metropolitan.com

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on our web... Calling all photographers! Whether you’re a serious pro or an enthusiastic amateur, we’re looking for your photos of Barcelona taken any time during this year for a special feature we’ll be running in our December issue. The idea is to tell the story of the city in 2011 using images by people living here. They can be personal or of a particular city theme: 15-M protests, FC Barcelona celebrations, the final bullfight, a special day that you’ve had, a surprise moment. Send your submissions to editorial@barcelonametropolitan.com, with subject line ‘Collage’, to arrive with us by 6pm on November 14th. There is no cash or other prize if your photo is selected—just the sheer joy of sharing your photos with the rest of us. For more information, go to: www.barcelona-metropolitan.com/photocollage

Competition! The Jocular Theatre Company is a non-profit theatre company with one aim, to bring excellent theatre to the English-speaking community in Barcelona. To that end they frequently put on what they like to call ‘kiss-ass dark comedies’ that challenge and, hopefully, make you laugh. This month, over two weekends, they perform Steven Dietz’s Private Eyes, a multi-layered comedy about deception and suspicion. We have three double tickets to give away for the performance on Sunday 20th. To win, go to our website to answer the simple question and you could be the lucky winner. www.barcelona-metropolitan.com/privateeyes


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An inside look Photographer Oliver Hinds I was born and raised in North London. After leaving school, I was given my first camera and took it on a trip around Australia where my passion for photography started to develop. When I returned, I studied at Portsmouth University and began to take photography more seriously, but it wasn’t until I arrived in Barcelona five years ago that I realised how interesting it could be and that it’s the people who give a place its rhythm and energy. Ever since, this is what I’ve been trying to capture on camera. Barcelona has also given me the opportunity to become involved with people in other creative areas. I’ve photographed the work of artist and fashion designer Aby Mackie and done promotional photography projects for music producer Sonny Dhanowa. Barcelona is truly captivating. Once you’re here it seems to be almost impossible to leave. I always avoid the metro when possible. Barcelona is a city that’s too small and beautiful to be experienced underground. I never miss the chance to take my camera into the Raval. If you’re lacking inspiration it’s the place to go; its eclectic mix of faces and places means you always walk away with something unique. Favourite view: Carrer de l’Argenteria. During the early evening, this normally shady, narrow street gets flooded with an intense, glowing sunlight. It’s beautiful to see people going about their normal business totally unaware of the surreal backdrop. If you sit by the cathedral you can go unnoticed and get it all on camera. On my to do list: I keep hearing about Barcelona’s underground restaurant scene. Recently I was told about a restaurant you had to enter via the shop front of a dry cleaner’s—I’m intrigued! The cover: This shot was taken in Plaça Sant Jaume during one of the Mercè casteller [human tower] events. The castellers are breathtaking to watch and always provide loads of good photo opportunities. In particular, I never fail to be impressed by the youngster who scurries up to the top of the tower and completes their team’s display. This is what I wanted to capture on camera and was lucky enough to do so. I like the serenity of this photo. When I took it, there were thousands of people below cheering and shouting and his team were shaking and wobbling as they tried their best not to collapse. Whilst everything around him was manic, he appeared to remain completely calm. The photo almost seems to show him there alone, quietly enjoying the views and his own private little dance.


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November FASHION

In this feature, fashion writer Vera Ciria talks us through what’s on her Barcelona style radar.

Responsible for the ‘It Collections’ of the past few seasons, Miuccia Prada’s talent seems to have no limits. Her garments grace the covers of countless magazines and celebrities queue up to be snapped wearing her lust-worthy dresses. The quirkiness of her two lines, Prada and, in particular, Miu Miu, has managed to captivate us, mesmerising the fashion pack and lesser mortals alike. Launched in 1993, Miu Miu, which was Miuccia Prada’s nickname when she was a little girl, has gone from strength to strength. Who doesn’t covet the strange, furry bags? The sparkly heels? Those perfect dresses? In a fashion world that relies heavily on producing commercial, wearable pieces that easily translate to the everyday for real customers (with hard cash), the Miu Miu whimsy is a beacon of hope to those anxious to add some verve to their wardrobes. Until recently, those living in the Catalan capital could only dream of what life would be like in a Miu Miu world, but finally, after much expectation, we now have our very own store in Barcelona. Located on Passeig de Gràcia, the store boasts two floors filled with the prêt-à-porter collections, those perfect bags and shoes and a selection of accessories. Designed by the architect Roberto Baciocchi, the store space is a succession of treasure troves waiting to be discovered. The ground floor, with its damask-upholstered walls and furniture, is home to shoes, bags and accessories, all displayed as if they were the most precious of jewels. Step quietly up the stairs and feel your skin tingle as more shoes come into view, interspersed among rails of Miu Miu garments. Hear the restrained elegance whispering to you, “please take me home with you. I’m the perfect bag for you, the perfect pair of shoes.” Run your fingers over the luscious fabrics and don’t dare try anything on, as you’ll only weep at how incredible everything looks. The brocade curtains, mirrors and furniture

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lend a certain boudoir feel that only heightens the giggly mess of nerves that seems to descend as you enter the store. Blinking and sighing, return to the hustle and bustle of Passeig de Gràcia and savagely make mental calculations, wondering if the bank will notice if you max out your credit card and leave Miu Miu next time with one of those perfect pink shopping bags. Miu Miu - Passeig de Gràcia 42

Image courtesy Prada Group

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Baby love Carolina Herrera, daughter of the famous Venezuelan fashion designer of the same name, and her business partners have just brought their winning children’s shop formula to Barcelona, after successful openings in Valencia, Madrid and Bilbao. Baby Deli combines a shop where you can pick up environmentally-friendly products, an airy, spacious café ideal for hosting children’s parties and space for regular workshops (all pictured left). If your offspring are under eight then you can attend workshops together on themes such as yoga, baby massage, storytelling and cooking. Alternatively, peruse the biodegradable, fair trade and organic goods on offer. If you can’t actually get there, out regular e-bulletins and has a blog to keep you up-todate with what they’re doing. Saturday, 10am to 8.30pm. www.babydeli.com

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In the pink To celebrate five years in business, flower shop Au Nom de la Rose is throwing a month-long party, which includes competitions, gourmet tastings and special events. With two shops in Barcelona and two in Madrid, over the last five years they’ve been happily making beautiful bouquets, arrangements and interesting gourmet products. Not only that but they’ve been developing different types of roses and for their birthday celebrations they’ve made a special new flower called Esperanza. Valencia 203 and Ganduxer 26. www.aunomdelarose.com

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Wild Barcelona Text and photos by Lucy Brzoska

Diary of an adoption Last year, Meredith Gales successfully adopted a girl from a West African country. Here, as she signs off her series of columns, she shares a photo of her new family.

Photo by Victor Puig, www.52portraits.com

The language of love


Turkey tails

Conk of a red-banded polypore

Fruits of decay


teep paths send you plunging rapidly into the deep valleys of Collserola, where sunlight mingles with the damp mist, infiltrating fans of slanting tree shadows. The woods have recovered the rich autumnal smell of decomposition. Mushrooms are emerging, thrusting aside the leaf mulch, though some of the most colourful fruits of decay are at eye-level. Semi-circular conks jut out of dead or weakened trees. Named shelf fungi, after their perpendicular angle of growth, these solid, dense structures can last for years, having absorbed the hardness of the wood they grow on. The red-banded polypore, for instance, grows a new spore-containing layer each season, allowing you to count up its years. The result is a multicoloured conk of white, yellow and red. In Castilian, shelf fungi are known as yesqueros—tinderboxes. While the surface is inflammable, the interiors can smoulder for days, allowing them to be carried around like primitive cigarette lighters. Most vibrant of all the yesqueros are the turkey tails, thin and leathery, with a fine velvety surface. Infinitely varied, they produce rings of startling blue or green among the browns and greys. In this species, the contrasting bands of colour reflect growth spurts rather than years. They can smother a fallen trunk or tree stump with exuberant clusters, while, out of sight, microscopic threads penetrate deep into the wood, armed with enzymes to digest it. Fungi can break down the toughest of organic material, including hooves and shells, so a tree is no big deal. As well as recycling essential nutrients, and stopping a forest choking on its own debris, shelf fungi help provide homes. It’s not unusual to see a woodpecker’s hole drilled directly underneath a protruding conk. It’s not that the birds want a porch roof to keep off the rain but simply that fungus-infested wood is clearly easier to chisel.

Lucy Brzoska runs nature tours and writes for www.iberianature.com

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anguage has been debated a lot here lately. It has centred on the Catalan-Castilian hot potato, and what parents consider is a good balance for their kids to be taught in. There are many opinions and my intention is not to express mine here, though in my daughter’s case I feel that her language acquisition is complicated by many factors, mainly because I have no real idea what her mother tongue is. Her second language is English, and she is now losing her rather charming pidgin way of expression and acquiring a more coherent syntax. She comes from a country where nine dialects are spoken and where the north is Muslim. When left to her own devices she doodles from right to left in a script that looks like Arabic. At some point she must have been made to study the Koran, which, along with her left-handedness, is slowing down the process of the (to my mind) antiquated letra ligada that primary school children are taught here. We speak English at home and lately I have been delighted to find that we can also converse in Castilian fluently when the social needs arise. Some of her native patois has become part of our ‘secret’ vocabulary; bola for rubbish, pampas for nappies and the hilarious way she describes amorous couples as ‘marrying’. The experts would probably disagree but I figure it’s a way she can hang onto part of her culture. I used to (rather smugly) think that people who adopted a child who spoke a language they couldn’t were making the wrong choice, and how frightening it must be for them to arrive in a totally new environment and not be able to communicate with their new family. Now I’m not so sure. At least in the first six months, language fell way short when we were in crisis mode, and I don’t think it contributed that much to the bonding process. Bonding is like piece of elastic. When the other person pulls away, the further they go the stronger they will bounce back—the trick is not to let it break. With an adopted child, the most important factor is routine and consistency, and it’s taken a full year of me just being there for her to trust me totally. We are a team now; we know each other’s weak spots and breaking points, and what makes each happy. She doesn’t say ‘I love you’ very often, but she doesn’t really need to. Her smile and sheer lust for life speak volumes.

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Michael Witty

Retired fourth-generation Barcelona family businessman­and walking enthusiast, UK, 75

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The Wittys have been in Barcelona for more than 100 years. My grandfather Arthur and his brother Ernest were presidents of FC Barcelona and what is now the Real Club de Tenis de Barcelona respectively at the same time, during the first decade of the 20th century. I was born here in 1936, nine days before the start of the Civil War. My parents, both British, ran a shipping agency. Things were very vicious at the beginning, there was absolute anarchy, so the British sent a warship to take us to safety. I was the youngest refugee and my middle name, Douglas, comes from HMS Douglas, the destroyer vessel that took us to the warship. My doctor takes great delight in calling out “Michael Douglas” when I go to see her. We came back to Spain when it had all finished. The Barcelona business had collapsed, but my father had found a job with the Rio Tinto copper mining company down in the south so we went there. Then of course, the Second World War started so my mother, me and my newborn brother Chris had to go back to the UK again, this time via a boat from Lisbon. My father came to London in 1940 and started working for the British Intelligence. When the war was over, he was offered the chance of a permanent job there, or to come back here with his family and start from scratch. He made the choice of coming back. It was February 1947, one of the worst winters Europe had ever had. By that time, I had started at Radley [public school], so me and my brother would come back here for Christmas; there were no half terms or Easter here. We’d spend 12 weeks of the year at home and the rest at school. I got very used to going backwards and forwards. My parents were always very keen on walking and we were always taken walking when we were kids, against our will sometimes, but it must have been in my blood because when I married, we started taking the kids straightaway out to the countryside in the pram. The first ‘Witty Walk’ started in November 1991, exactly 20 years ago. Brian Allendale from the British Society of Catalunya, a new committee then, invited me for lunch and said he was looking for ideas for expat activities. I said: “What about walking? None of you guys knows anything about the Catalan countryside…” I was amazed that 40 people turned up for the first one. In the blurb, I’d said we’d go through beech woods and autumn colours to Table Top Mountain in the Ayats, where we’d have the most fantastic views. Of course it turned out to be a miserable foggy day! At that point I realised that going for a walk with 40 people is very different than going for a walk with two or three; you have to be absolutely sure of where you’re going for a start. Very soon people were asking when the next walk was happening. There were two or three in the first year and then there was one a month. Now I have around 200 people on the mailing list, though thankfully they don’t all turn up every time. Barcelona has changed so much. I remember it being the last place you wanted to be. You came in to work and you couldn’t wait to get out. The Sagrada Familía was a big construction dump. When everything was being spruced up for the Olympics, we suddenly realised we lived in a city that had some attractions. I think if there hadn’t been a civil war or 40 years under a dictatorship, there would have been every possibility of Catalunya taking a much larger role in the whole Spanish political scene but because of the dictatorship, it’s understandable there should be a nationalistic feeling. I haven’t really made my mind up at all about the politics. What I do know is there is very little difference between the press today and the press during the Franco years. The same old emphasis is given to the politicians! In other democracies the press are able to go to politicians, ask questions, get replies quickly and write what they want to write. Here the politicians get in touch with the press and tell them what to write! http://wittywalksmw888.blogspot.com Interview by Nicola Thornton. Photo by Lee Woolcock.

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Raising the curtain Moves are afoot to raise the accessibility and international profile of contemporary Catalan theatre. By Alx Phillips.


s Barcelona’s professional theatre season gets underway, it may seem to those of us less than proficient in Catalan that its performances unfold behind closed curtains. Centred on the prestigious Teatre Nacional de Catalunya, the two Teatres Lliure (on Montjuïc and in Gràcia), the Sala Beckett and the Romea, among dozens of smaller theatres, the scene seems as vibrant as it is insular. The feeling is accentuated by the prevalence of work by important international playwrights on local stages; there’s loads of Shakespeare

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(Coriolanus, The Tempest), Ibsen (Hedda Gabler), Oscar Wilde (Lord Arthur Savile’s Crime) as well as contemporary writers Tom Stoppard, Martin Crimp and Peter Handke. But all in Catalan. Then there are those multiple award-winning local playwrights, Sergi Belbel, Pau Miró, Lluïsa Cunillé. Are they good? No idea. Is it fair as a foreigner to gripe about it? Well, apparently some significant Catalan directors gripe about it too. Lluís Pasqual, now 60 and a Barcelona theatre icon, has returned this year to the Lliure, which he helped found in the Seventies. “Theatre is a public service,” he says in an interview

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published in the programme for the Lliure’s new season, “and the public has changed. We need to share ideas, projects...costs.” Toni Casares, 46, is artistic director of the Sala Beckett, the most established ‘alternative’ space in Barcelona. He believes in “the stamp of quality to Catalan playwriting” that has developed through significant state support of the language. “Our work is at the level of the best works in Europe; we have to share it,” he told Metropolitan. Similarly, his contemporary Calixto Bieito, one of the most famous directors in the world, is impatient with the Catalan scene. “We need to break down borders, we need input from countries with a much more defined model for culture, we need clear decisions, and we need to reach this international audience.” Contemporary Catalan theatre is less than 40 years old, and its origins as a form of silent protest against the Spanish dictatorship still wields influence. In 1979, during the transition to democracy, one troupe started out with a shack, a donkey and some highly explicit gestures. La Fura dels Baus shot to international fame in the Eighties and have been there ever since, producing mass-audience spectacles that aim to wow, but mainly to shock. Although the troupe’s XXX—a show inspired by the writings of the Marquis de Sade—is an extreme example, it is a style that has become synonymous with a Catalan theatre that is easy, if expensive, to export. However, this is clearly not the only approach. “While one style

offers workshops for actors and aspiring playwrights of all levels and features international figures: last July, it was British playwright Simon Stephens, last month, actor Will Keen of Londonbased troupe Cheek by Jowl. The plan is to build a much larger Sala Beckett in Poblenou, says Casares. “We want to create an international house of playwrights, incorporating students and teachers from abroad.” It is tempting to meet Casares’s enthusiasm with reticence. The economic crisis circles above us, and then there’s the ominous influence of Beckett’s Irish namesake Samuel, whose plays rotate around expectations unfulfilled. But Casares is not the only one with plans. Calixto Bieito produces multidisciplinary opera and theatre that is as extravagant as it is controversial, and it is by no means all show—complex literary and philosophical texts wind through performances that have been a hit with international audiences. After 11 years at the Romea, Bieito and former Grec Festival director Borja Sitjà this July launched a massive global theatre project. Barcelona International Theatre, or ‘BIT’, is a privately-funded initiative with a public grant from the Institut Ramon Llull. The enterprise rides on the international reputation of the defiant Bieito, who is unmoved by the current difficult financial climate. “I’m not an economist! We launched BIT now as we have the energy and the ideas for it.” BIT comprises seven shows created and performed by a multi-

(left to right): Lluís Pasqual, Calixto Bieito and Toni Casares (photo by Teresa Miró)

of theatre enriches another,” said Toni Casares, “we feel that it isn’t so important that the performances circulate as much as the texts themselves.” Sala Beckett launched two projects in 2009 with the objective of making Catalan scripts and theatre more international. The website www.catalandrama.com is aimed at promoting Catalan plays worldwide and offers free translations of texts into a dozen languages. While aimed at theatre professionals, with plays and readings produced in the UK and the US last year, the service is open to the public at large. A second project is dedicated to improving quality. L’Obrador

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cultural crew, who will tour around Europe and North America. The most imminent production, The Great Theatre of the World, is co-written by Bieito and Marc Rosich, and incorporates compositions by the flamboyant pianist Carles Santos. It premiers in Freiburg, Germany this month and then travels to Barcelona. “It is a spiritual project,” Bieito summarised, “about theatre and life.” He may have the air of it but Bieito is no Don Quixote-dreamer, or he would not have been asked to produce the final piece for the World Shakespeare Festival that is being organised for the


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London Olympics next year. He proposed Forests, led by dramatic Ones to Watch—Catalan playwrights actor Josep Maria Pou. “It will be 80 percent in English and 20 Josep Maria Benet i Jornet (b.1940) - Veteran playwright widely pubpercent in Catalan, and will draw on images of forests in Shake- lished and televised in Spain; Desire (Desig) was produced in July spearean and contemporary texts, such as Cormac McCarthy’s 2010 by the White Bear Theatre Club in London. The Road”—magical, creepy, apocalyptic, “the aging process,” Lluïsa Cunillé (b.1961) - Prolific, award-winning writer of dark, insaid Bieito. “There is a long tradition of translation of Shake- tricate dramas such as Barcelona, mapa de sombras. She also writes speare in Catalunya, I want to explore that too.” Forests will not cabaret. arrive in Barcelona until next summer, but early in 2012, a series Sergi Belbel (b.1963) - The internationally successful author of Deof lectures and workshops incorporating international artists and sprés de la pluja and Carícies Belbel’s Morir (o no) was made into a thinkers of all disciplines will be held at the CCCB. film by Ventura Pons. October saw the release of the film Eva, for Meanwhile, at the Lliure on Montjuïc, regular performances which he co-wrote the screenplay. accessible to international audiences have been going on for a Jordi Galceran (b.1964) - Best known for his play dealing with cutwhile. This is the place where the Grec Festival hosted English- throat corporate culture, El mètode Grönholm, which was made into language theatre, including London troupe the Young Vic, for a Spanish film. three years running and Lluís Pasqual is continuing the interna- Guillem Clua (b.1973) - An innovative playwright with internationtional programme spurred on by the Lliure’s previous director al training, Clua’s background in journalism and love of cinema Àlex Rigola. Four Catalan-language productions this season have influence his plays with strong storylines, such as Invisibles and English subtitles, but including them is an expensive procedure Marburg. that means they have to focus only on those plays that run for a Pau Miró (b.1974) - The socially-savvy Miró marks the changes to while, around three to four weeks. Alas, that means there’ll be Barcelona’s cityscape and people. It’s Raining in Barcelona (Plou) was no English subtitles for British director Declan Donnellan’s ac- produced by London’s Cock Tavern Theatre this year, and for the claimed The Tempest in Russian, which plays for just four days in Canadian Fringe Festival in 2010. December. Jordi Casanovas (b.1978) - Author of Sopar amb Battla and City/SimAnd none either at the Sala Beckett, at least for the time be- City, the hip Casanovas is determined to make theatre more coning. “We tend to translate foreign works into Catalan,” said Toni temporarily relevant. Casares but while they don’t currently use subtitles, he seems open to the idea. “They are a useful tool though,” he acknowledged, “and they’re getting more affordable as technology improves.” Of course, in the meantime, anyone wanting to try theatre in Catalan could take a leaf out of Casares’s book: “When I was starting to go to international productions, I read the synopsis [then] went to the play,” he hinted. Perhaps, then, the fault lies more with the level of international interest. If that is so, let’s hope we haven’t missed the boat. Over the last six years while he was in post as the Grec director, Argentine Ricardo Szwarcer went on an internationalisation drive, splurging on companies from the UK and France. This year he has been replaced—internally— by Ramon Simó, former director of Catalan playwrights and other creatives: (back row, left to right) Cristina Clemente, Pau Miró, Jordi Casanovas, Sergi Belbel, Fira de Tàrrega, the popular festiJordi Galceran, Guillem Clua; (front row, left to right) Àlex Rigola (director), Ferran Carvajal (actor and dancer), J.M. Benet val of street theatre where La Fura and Llàtzer García. Photo courtesy Temporada Alta dels Baus made its name. Or could it be something else entirely? “There’s a misconception that theatre is dangerous,” said ONES TO READ Casares, “while the real problem is that politicians don’t care There are a few collections of contemporary Catalan plays in Engabout it.” Yet what if young politically, socially and technologi- lish: Barcelona Plays: A Collection of New Works by Catalan Playwrights— cally savvy Catalan dramaturges, such as Guillem Clua and Jordi Ed. Sharon G. Feldman and Marion P. Holt (Martin E. Segal TheaCasanovas, had the further force of the international community tre Center (CUNY), 2008); and Modern Catalan Plays— Ed. David behind them? Theatre really could be dangerous then. George and John London (London: Methuen Drama, 2000).

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Once at the heart of Catalan intellectual and economic life, the Jewish population of medieval Barcelona became a target for kings and commoners alike. By Nick Lloyd. Photos by Mónica Navarro. Hebrew inscription in Plaça de Sant Iu

Carrer Marlet, looking towards the possible site of Barcelona’s former main synagogue

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The call of the past O

n August 5th, 1391, a mob stormed the ancient centre of Jewish Barcelona and set about butchering its inhabitants. By the time the authorities managed to stop the killing, hundreds of men, women and children lay dead in the streets. Although the last of the city’s Jews were not finally banished for another 101 years, the pogrom left the community fatally wounded. Small numbers of Jews may have arrived in Barcelona soon after 70 CE, as part of the wave of migrants arriving in Europe fleeing Roman repression in Palestine, so the city was probably Jewish before it was Christian. They settled, first through custom, then by obligation, in what became known as El Call, the labyrinth of narrow streets in the heart of the Gothic quarter. The community prospered and reached its period of splendour in the 13th century when between four and five thousand people lived in the neighbourhood, perhaps accounting for some 15 percent of the city’s population. This was the centre of intellectual life in medieval Catalunya and provided the city with its doctors, lawyers, financiers and translators. Many Jews spoke a slew of languages (Catalan, Castilian, Hebrew, Arabic and Latin)—uniquely, in addition to Catalan, the Jews of Catalunya also still used Hebrew in everyday life, whereas elsewhere it had been relegated to ceremonial and literary functions. Their knowledge of Arabic aided their good relations with the Islamic south, allowing them to work as traders and ambassadors for the Catalan count-kings; officially at least, Jews were property of the crown who greatly valued their servants’ work. But not all was rosy in relations with their Christian neighbours. Papal instructions in 1215 called for Jews throughout Christendom to

wear hoods and a red button sewn on their clothes to identify them. The rise of the Dominican order, the intellectual precursors of the Inquisition, was also an increasing threat as they had developed the doctrine of the Jews being responsible for the death of Jesus. Dominicans were also allowed to preach inside synagogues, which often led to conflict. This situation worsened in the 14th century, when Europe was engulfed by a series of cataclysms that savaged the economy. Barcelona was no exception. The city was hit by a run of famines beginning in 1333 and in 1348, the Black Death struck. Possibly a fifth of the city’s population—then less than 40,000—died, including a large number of the ruling elite. Desperate people looked around, as they sadly still do today, for someone to blame. Rumours were rife. It seemed everybody knew of a Jew who had poisoned a well, leading to an attack on the Call in 1349. The plague periodically reappeared sowing terror and mistrust in the city for the next hundred or so years, and as the economic woes continued, it seemed only a matter of time before violence broke out. By 1391, there was rising discontent with the economy, the municipal government and taxation. A few Jews were employed as tax collectors making them an easy target of ire, but any protopolitical agenda the mob may have had was soon poisoned by the endemic anti-Semitism of the time, and the enticement of Dominican preachers. On August 5th, St Dominic Day’s, a righteous mob descended on the Call. By the end of the day, 300 people were dead. King Joan I of Aragon was incensed. Jews were his property and brought him handsome returns and good consul. He had a number of the chief perpetrators hanged or sent to the galleys, and he returned all Jewish privileges and made them

This is when Spain’s love affair with the pig begins, as an affirmation of one’s religious credentials.

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exempt from taxes for three years. But the damage was too great. The attack resulted in the effective extinction of the Call. Those survivors who could afford it emigrated to the Maghreb and the Eastern Mediterranean, but many stayed in Barcelona, moved out of the Call and converted en masse to Christianity. The abandoned synagogues were demolished, their stones used to build the royal palace and the new Generalitat building. Many settled in El Call Menor (originally an extension given to the expanding Jewish population) and opened their shops on Carrer de la Boqueria; they converted the synagogue on Ferran to the Church of the Trinity, now called Sant Jaume. Although they were distrusted by the rest of the population and married within their own community, for many conversion brought benefits as they could now hold positions that had been previously barred to them. Similar processes were going on throughout the Kingdoms of Aragon and Castile, and in 1480 the Spanish Inquisition was created by Ferdinand II of Aragon and Isabella I of Castile with the aim of maintaining Catholic orthodoxy in their kingdoms and rooting out ‘false’ converts from Islam and Judaism. The new converts became known respectively as moriscos and conversos, or, in the insulting term of the time, marranos (pigs). Paradoxically, this is the time when Spain’s love affair with the pig begins, as a righteous affirmation of one’s re-

ligious credentials. Barcelona’s converted Jews remained, in theory, under the protection of the monarchy and subject to royal justice, not to the Inquisition, though this did not always stop it from getting its murderous fingers on a number of unfortunate individuals, accused of secretly continuing Jewish practices. The repression began in earnest in 1487 when 12 people were burnt at the stake in Plaça del Rei along with, in testament to the madness of the times, 229 effigies of fugitives. Many others were condemned to a short, brutal life of imprisonment. But the Inquisition was only levelled against so-called heretical Christians: Moors and Jews who had falsely converted, not the few surviving practising Jews. The final straw for the city’s Jewish community came in March 1492 with the edict of the Catholic Kings to expel all Jews from the kingdoms of Aragon and Castile. They were given four months to convert or go into exile. Despite the protests of Barcelona’s councillors, who claimed it would involve a great loss to the city as the Jews ran profitable trades such as the coral business (at a time when Catalunya’s coasts were still rich in the resource), their calls fell on deaf ears and the expulsion went ahead. In truth, Barcelona itself was not greatly affected as there were so few Jews left by this point, but throughout Catalunya and Aragon, it did have a significant impact on the economy.

DID YOU KNOW? The name of the Mercat de la Boqueria is said to be derived from it being on the site where kosher butchers used to slaughter goats, which were called bocs in old Catalan. Carrer Sant Domènec del Call, originally called Carrer Sinagoga Major

A tour of conjecture—Exploring the Call Start at Sant Ramon del Arc, one of the old entrances to the Call: at the end of the street on the right is what’s said to be the oldest house in the city and the cursed one-time home of an alchemist (see last month’s magazine), though recent research suggests it is probably from the 17th century. The front side of this building is today the Call Interpretation Centre. However, here at the back, see if you can find a well-worn grove on the stone door frame. This may be a mezuzah where scriptures would be left in accordance with Jewish tradition. Now head back a few metres to Marlet. Immediately on your left is a replica of a stone marker in Hebrew dedicated to the memory of a 12th-century rabbi who donated money for a hospital, which was found in the 19th century when the old building here was demolished. The original can be seen in the Barcelona History Museum. Ahead of you at number 5, a building juts out at a strange angle, reportedly so that it faces Jerusalem—this, it is claimed, is Barcelona’s old main synagogue. After being closed for more than 600 years, it was re-consecrated in 2002, and its ancient walls can now be visited. However, Barcelona council’s own historians aren’t convinced, unsure that this really was the synagogue site or whether it was part of a pri-

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vate house or, at most, the temple’s side entrance for women. You now reach the intersection with Sant Domènec del Call, the main street running through the Call, originally known as Sinagoga Major. All the street names were Christianised when the Jews abandoned the quarter, this one in honour of the man who was to inspire many medieval pogroms and an effigy of Saint Dominic can be seen halfway along the street. Outside the Call, along Banys Nous (New Baths) is the deliciously expensive Caelum, which sells a range of cakes and biscuits made by nunneries and convents all over Spain. Downstairs is an arcaded tearoom, which the owners and many guidebooks claim to be the remains of the women’s section of the old Jewish baths. Putting a dampener on things again, many historians believe the construction to be much newer. Some of the most interesting and uncontroversially authentic remains are in Plaça de Sant Iu at the side of the cathedral, where, if you’re observant, you can spot several stones with Hebrew inscriptions taken from the synagogues of the Call demolished after 1391 and used to build the 16th-century Palau del Lloctinent. Another one can be seen in Plaça del Rei, site of the Inquisition’s public horrors.

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main pages Nov 2011 .indd 1

Yoga Claudia Faimberg Mon-wed 14.15h Wed 19.30h Mon-thurs 20.30h Dynamic yoga Gabriela Martin Wed 8.45h Fri 9.30h Yoga for pregnant women Thurs 14.15h Claudia Faimberg Mother and baby yoga Mon 16h Trini Carrillan Wed 17.30h Claudia Faimberg Family yoga Trini Carrillan Mon 17.45h every two weeks Fri 17h monthly Yoga for children Thurs 17.30h Nini del Carril Chi kung Adalia Iglesias Tues 19h Wed 10.30h Healing son Thurs 19h Fernando Dans Music therapy for pregnant women Mon 19h Fernando Dans Feldenkrais Mon 10.30h Natalia Vergara Authentic movement Wed 11.30h Paula Mariani

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10/17/11 1:52:57 PM


We 0 Vespa

Ever since Audrey Hepburn hitched a ride on Gregory Peck’s Vespa in the Fifties, these classic two-wheelers have been a cult vehicle amongst fans. By Dirk Engelhardt. Photos by Jasna Boudard.


ne hot day this summer, people strolling along the seafront in the Costa Brava town of Calella were surprised when a swarm of nearly 100 vintage Vespas suddenly drove up, throwing a cloud of dust up behind them. They were arriving for the annual ‘Calella Scooter Rally’, which sees Vespa and Lambretta lovers from all over Spain, as well as France and Belgium, come together with their lovingly cared-for scooters. The riders lined up their classic bikes in the shade of Calella’s sycamore trees, turning the area into an open-air museum. Some bikes were still in their original state, while others had been fitted with new lights, exhaust pipes or seats. The oldest ones were from the Fifties, a time when Vespa was still producing scooters in Spain. One even had a sidecar, which was closely inspected by the curious onlookers. This rally, now in its 12th year, is organised by Jonathan Valero, a 32-year-old from Barcelona, as part of the Sant Jordi Vespa Club that he runs. “As young as 12, I was already riding a Vespa under my father’s watchful eye,” Valero said. At 16, he got his first Lambretta, a 125cc 1971 model: “I’ve still got it, and it runs

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smoothly.” When he was 17, he made a three-week trip around Spain on his Lambretta. “And even now, when I go on holiday, I use my Vespa,” Valero explained. His Vespa 200, only 11 years old, can carry his wife as a pillion passenger and has room for suitcases. Valero’s love for these classic machines has even spilled over to his professional life, with his decision to turn his hobby of repairing his own scooters into his work, by opening a scooter shop in Gràcia. At Only Scooter, as well as carrying out repairs, Valero sells accessories for Vespa addicts. So how did the Vespa, which now produces such love, first come into being? In 1946, Corradino d‘Ascanio developed the first Vespa at the request of Enrico Piaggio, the Italian engineer whose familyrun company produced rolling-stock and airplanes until Allied bomb attacks in World War Two put a halt to their enterprise and left the company looking for new avenues to explore. In 1948, the successful model Vespa 125 went into mass production with 55,000 scooters produced in the first two years. Then in 1952, the company Motovespa produced its first Vespa 125 in a factory near Madrid. By 1976, in the factory in Pontedera, Italy, 7,200 workers produced more than 2,500 scooters daily. Nowadays, what the Volkswagen Beetle, Citroen 2CV and Renault

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Jonathan Valero

R4 are for cool car collectors, vintage Vespas are for scooter lovers. Arguably, a key moment in the development of this love affair was in 1953, when Gregory Peck and Audrey Hepburn appeared in the movie Roman Holiday, riding a Vespa together through the narrow streets of the Italian capital (in the days before helmet wearing was enforced). This image helped to create a global Vespa cult, with rider clubs now set up around the world, from California to India. Impressively, the old-style scooters have maintained this level of adoration despite the fact that owners have to mix their own fuel for them. That’s right: each time a vintage Vespa rider runs low on petrol, he (and it usually is a he, although Valero says that an increasing number of women are riding them) has to fill up the engine with a mix of gas and oil, then start it with the kick-start mechanism, rather than with a key as you do with the modern machines. It’s not just the bikes themselves that are popular, however. Manufacturer Piaggio used sex appeal in marketing the Vespa right

Piaggio used sex appeal in marketing the Vespa right from the start.

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Albert Larruy


from the start. In the Fifties, the company issued a Vespa Calendar with pin-up girls, which achieved a circulation of around 275,000 copies, plus a pocket edition of 900,000. The old issues of these calendars, featuring women in bikinis next to different models of the scooter, are today much in demand with collectors. Despite this wide-ranging appeal, in the crisis-hit Barcelona of today, selling vintage Vespas can be difficult. Last year, enthusiast Juanma Nacarino opened Vespa Vintage on Passeig de Sant Joan. The beautifully restored Fifties’ Vespa, which he always parked in front of the store, attracted the eye of many passers-by, but few went in and actually bought anything. Some time ago Nacarino had to close the shop and now it only exists on the internet. Similarly, Maria Otero Solé thought the fashionable neighbourhood of Gràcia would be a good place to sell scooter gear, Vespa memorabilia and mod stuff, and she opened a store in Torrent de l‘Olla. This shop is now up for rent. While classic Vespas may not be the best area for a niche business idea, for bike lovers looking for something with style, it’s the only way to go. Three years ago, Albert Larruy from Arenys de Mar “only” had a BMW Cross motorbike, but what he’d really always wanted was a Vespa. In 2008, a colleague offered to sell Larruy his bright red Vespa 1983 PKS 75 bike. “I couldn’t turn down his offer, thinking about how much it would be worth when it was overhauled,” Larruy said. The scooter had been in storage for 10 years so it needed to be completely renovated. Larruy restored the engine, cleaned the fuel tank and fitted a few new parts, and now the scooter runs as good as new. “The nice thing with the old Vespas is the simplicity of their motor,” he said. “With some basic knowledge of how an engine works, you can do everything by yourself.”

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And even in Barcelona, with its thousands of scooters, a vintage Vespa is something special. “You see people’s faces on the street, and they are fascinated by this scooter,” said Larruy. He reckons that a Vespa is not ideal for long-distance touring, but it is very convenient in the city. ”You simply get around faster than in a car, especially in jams, when everyone has to wait.” He is not the only one who enjoys having a Vespa in the garage but not all owners are so keen to take their vehicles out and about. In L’Hospitalet, there is a well-kept secret stash of proudly preserved Vespas from the Fifties, including some rare Spain-made specimens and an ‘Ape’, the three-wheeled minicar Piaggio used to produce. But the Catalan owner, who we’ll just call J.S., and who also runs a scooter repair workshop, is so concerned about them getting damaged that he only takes them out onto the street on special occasions. Although this means he doesn’t get to share his vintage Vespas in the same way as Albert Larruy and those members of the Sant Jordi Scooter Club gathered in Calella, the dedication of J.S. to the classic machines is just as evident, with his declaration that he will never sell what he calls his “beauties”.

MORE INFO Only Scooter: www.onlyscooter.com Vespa Vintage: www.vespavintage.es Vespa Clubs A tota Vespa: www.atotavespa.com Club Scooterisa Sant Jordi: www.myspace.com/scooterrun Rent Vespas at Via Vespa: www.via-vespa.com

10/24/11 10:45:19 AM

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10/17/11 2:04:19 PM



Have a taste of five of Catalunya’s finest cheeses. By Lauren Reed. Photos by Tashoma Lemard.

Uff! d’Alba

Uff!, named for its potent, strong flavour, is for the adventurous foodie. The unpasteurised goat’s cheese washed with beer can be found at Formatgeria La Seu, a shop in the Gothic quarter specialising in Spanish farmhouse cheeses. As a passionate cheese specialist, owner and founder Katherine McLaughlin has a small selection of Catalan cheeses (she restricts the number to avoid competing too much with the wide variety of Catalan cheeses sold in markets close to her shop). Scottish-born McLaughlin gets Uff! and Tupí d’Alba (see below) from Mas Alba, an 18th-century masia near Girona. A half of Uff! costs €5 whilst a whole wheel costs €9, but the strength of the flavour ensures that a little bit as an appetiser goes a long way.

El Tupí d’Alba

Despite coming from the same producer, El Tupí is quite distinct to Uff! It’s not too aggressive and quite creamy, and is sold in a jar (tupí means pot in Catalan). This goat’s cheese undergoes a second fermentation process soaked in liqueur, a sweet wine or brandy, for at least two months. The result is a slightly toasted and caramelised flavour, and the cheese is best served on toast as it has a buttery note to it with a sharp aftertaste. El Tupí costs €4.70 for a jar.

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Where to buy Formatgeria La Seu: Dagueria 16. Owner Katherine McLaughlin encourages her customers to taste the cheeses before they buy and she has a dedicated space where you can try the cheeses with wine from the same region. www.formatgerialaseu.com Can Martí Jordi, Mercat de Santa Caterina: Avinguda Francesc Cambó 16. Can Martí Jordi is at stall numbers 130-132. www.mercatsantacaterina.com Andreu: It has seven shops around Catalunya with two in Barcelona. One in Avinguda Francesc Cambó, next to the Santa Caterina market and the other in L’illa shopping centre. www.andreulaxarcuteria.com

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Formatge de Cabra

The traditional Catalan hard goat cheese is integral to the Barcelona gastronomic experience. You can find the Montbrú formatge de cabra for €25.97 a kilo at Andreu, a modern deli with two branches in the city that also offer a place for you to sit down and enjoy some of the cheeses and other gourmet items they sell. The best way to eat this cheese is with savoury biscuits or in traditional tapas style, baked with tomato sauce and served on toasted bread. Add a glass of red wine and you have the perfect Catalan plat.

Pur de Búfala Català

Made in the Masia del Montbrú, located in the central Catalan county of Bagès, this cheese made from buffalo’s milk is semi-sweet and uncharacteristically soft for a Catalan cheese. The family-owned farm was first known for their goat’s cheeses (right) but the family started experimenting with buffalo’s milk after many trips to India; their venture was the first time that this milk had been used in this way in Spain. The Pur de Búfala Català costs €20.90 a kilo at Can Martí, a family stall at the Santa Caterina market, where Rafael Martí opened his business in 1927.


The Catalan fresh cheese mató can be made with either goat, sheep or cow’s milk—this one is made with cow’s milk, which is boiled up then filtered through material to create an unsalted cheese to serve with sugar or honey (this latter combination is a popular pudding here called mel i mató). Pair it with a local dessert wine, such as moscatell, and you have the perfect sweet and savoury treat. Made in the Marganell region to the north of Montserrat, an area known for its mató, this particular version of the cheese is sold at Can Martí for €9.50 a kilo.

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main pages Nov 2011 .indd 11

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18è Festival de Cinema Independent de Barcelona, L’Alternativa. P. 32

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the edit We trawl through the month’s cultural events and pick our favourites

Ballet del Teatre Mariinski Teatre Liceu Founded in the 18th century in St Petersburg and originally known as the Imperial Russian Ballet, the Mariinsky Ballet are still thought to be one of the best companies working today. With around 200 dancers the troupe are here to perform Le Corsaire, based on a poem by Lord Byron and first performed in 1856. It’s a three-act performance complete with a rewritten libretto. November 21st until 27th. www.liceubarcelona.cat


Hard Rock Cafe Throughout October and November The Hard Rock Cafe has been organising concerts to raise money to help the battle against breast cancer. On November 3rd it’s Barcelona’s turn with Argentine singer Coti taking to the stage at the Plaça de Catalunya restaurant. He’s promised to perform some of his biggest hits such as ‘Nada de esto fue un error’. Tickets are €14 with all the money raised going to AECC (Asociación Española Contra el Cáncer) which has been fighting cancer in Spain for 57 years. November 3rd, 10pm. www. hardrock.com

Eastpak Antidote Tour

Razzmatazz For those who like punk rock, get yourself down to Razzmatazz early on in the month. Touring 11 countries across Europe are A Day to Remember (pictured), August Burns Red, The Ghost Inside and Living with Lions. All four bands hail from the US or Canada and are some of the biggest names in hardcore to come out in the last decade. For just €22 you can see them all. November 2nd. www.eastpakantidotetour.com

The Corner Festival

La Plataforma The Corner Festival is a bi-monthly gathering that endeavours to bring together an entertaining mix of art, design, music, film and performance, showcasing work by leading creatives from across the globe, whilst discovering and giving a platform to new and emerging talent. The second edition will include live performances, videos, selections from Upload cinema, art by Equipo Falso and great music from DJ Marimba. All that and delicious food and cocktails! November 25th, 7pm. www.thecornerfestival.com

ON Contributors: Tyler Andrews, Suzie Boswell, Alx Phillips, Will Shank, Lucy Wright and Natasha Young

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William Fitzsimmons

Timber Timbre

Russian Red

Sidecar, 1st

Sala KGB, 15th

Teatro Coliseum, 25th

Wanda Jackson

The Subways

The Sisters of Mercy

Bikini, 3rd

Apolo[2], 16th

Razzmatazz, 26th

The Antlers

Pasión Vega

Ezra Furman

BeCool, 5th

Teatre Coliseum, 18th

Music Hall, 27th

John Grant

The Whip

Fleet Foxes

Apolo, 8th

BeCool, 18th

L’Auditori, 27th

Peter Frampton


Real Estate

Sant Jordi Club, 8th

Palau Sant Jordi, 19th

Sala KGB, 30th


Sydney Dance Company Mercat de les Flors

Energetic contemporary dance group Sydney Dance Company, based at a former train depot, have shot up in prestige since artistic director Rafael Bonachela took over in 2009. Bonachela, born in the Catalan village of La Garriga in 1972, spent most of his dance career with London’s Rambert Dance Company before establishing his own company in 2006. He caught the eye of pop and soul icons Kylie Minogue and Tina Turner, choreographing both on their international tours. Working with the former took him down under and when commissioned to develop the piece 360º with Sydney Dance Company, the Catalan so wowed the Australians that he was offered the post of artistic director by unanimous decision. This is the first time that Bonachela brings Sydney Dance Company to Barcelona where they will perform two pieces, 6 Breaths and LANDforms, both of which are set to the emotive yet urgent scores of Ezio Bosso, a young Italian composer who works regularly with Bonachela. The choreography, a blend of classical, urban and contemporary dance, is physically demanding. Australian dancers suit his needs, Bonachela has said, “a dancer is an athlete...and Australian dancers are generally in very good shape.” They are also long-limbed and this works well in his slick, sexy choreography which is all about extension and equilibrium. In pieces such as 360º and The Land of Yes and The Land of No dancers interact with mathematical precision, like a geometry set that has come alive. “The idea,” according to Bonachela “is that the audience can see the dancer at all angles.” 6 Breaths and LANDforms also lean towards group choreography, and the ‘multifaceted’ is reflected in their narrative structure too. 6 Breaths is a journey through life via different types of respiration; LANDforms follows the evolution of land from rural wilderness to its fragmentation through urbanisation and industry. Bonachela compares dance to poetry in its ability to evoke more than it physically presents, yet what is also communicated to the audience through his breathtaking choreography is something of the visible structure of text: a fluidity punctuated by moments of suspension. November 24th to 27th. www.mercatflors.cat

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11è Aniversario Razzmatazz

L’ALTERNATIVA Various venues

Razzmatazz is like that place that you can’t avoid on a night out. Music fans

Cinema-goers in Barcelona are spoiled with offbeat arthouse offerings and

of all denominations who’ve combed the Barcelona live music scene for

cult classics, along with the ubiquitous stream of the latest Hollywood heroes

any length of time will undoubtedly have stories about it.

grappling for Academy Awards. November anticipates an even wider scope of

This year marks the 11th anniversary of Sala Razzmatazz, a blink of an

entertainment, as the annual Barcelona Independent Film Festival, also known

eye compared to other classic live venues, but in its short existence, Razz

as L’Alternativa, invites previously unknown directors to contribute to the

has seen some great musical acts cross its stages. This year’s anniversary

city’s cinematic repertoire.

celebration is no exception. New York dance revivalists The Rapture stand

The last 18 years have seen L’Alternativa rise from a fledgling festival to an

out (November 22nd). Their new album In the Grace of Your Love—as

internationally recognised event, where independently produced films, that

well as an inspired attempt to legitimise the cowbell in progressive dance

might otherwise be eclipsed by the overblown gloss of blockbusters, are cir-

music—landed them squarely in the centre of Mixmag’s debate over who

culated beyond their culture of origin. Festival organisers have sifted through

is the Best Dance Act of All Time. The trio bring a haunting, caustic, genre-

thousands of entries to narrow the selection down to 46 titles presented in

defying sound to their live performances, which, regardless of classifica-

three categories: fiction feature films, non-fiction feature films and shorts of

tion, is infinitely danceable.

no more than 40 minutes long.

If drum and bass and bright lights aren’t your thing, consider checking

This year’s non-fiction category introduces the gripping works of compet-

out Scotsmen Bill Wells (The Bill Wells Octet and a dozen other alt-rock

ing Belgian film-makers Pierre-Yves Vandeweerd and Sofie Benoot. The

collaborations) and Aidan Moffat (Arab Strap) who play on November 10th.

latter dares to bare the myth of the American dream in Blue Meridian while

They’ve recently collaborated on a rich and profoundly melancholic album

Vandeweerd’s Territoire perdu (Lost Land) travels to Western Sahara to docu-

about the solitary process of ageing entitled Everything’s Getting Older.

ment the plight of the Sahrawi people who’ve faced persecution and exile.

Wells and Moffat took their time on this project, over eight years, and the

In providing ample space for discussion of the selected works, as well as

tone of their music is all the better for the rehearsed and rehashed sounds.

a platform from which to achieve distribution, L’Alternativa is a film festival

Their lilting cover of the Bananarama classic ‘Cruel Summer’ is perhaps the

that values the spectator as much as the work. If reel upon reel of exploratory

best summation of the album’s chief concern: exuberance consumed by

film wasn’t enough to stir audiences, a variety of roundtable activities, led


by participating directors and film schools, encourage debate on the issues

And it doesn’t end there. Razzmatazz continues the party with other stellar attendees including James Murphy (Nov 3rd), The Drums (Nov

broached by the entries. Screenings are at the CCCB (Auditori and Teatre), Cinemes Maldà, Institut

16th), Caribou (Nov 24th), Horrors (Dec 1st), Smashing Pumpkins (Dec 6th),

Francès and Casa Amèrica Catalunya and cost from a pocket-pleasing nothing

James Blake and Jamie XX (Dec 8th), Friendly Fires (Dec 10th), a DJ set

to €5. L’Alternativa eschews traditional film institutions and if the selection

from Mike Skinner on December 16th and Riotous Rockers (Dec 17th) with

process is as scrupulous as it has been in previous years, there won’t be a

Junior Boys rounding up the mega-celebration on December 20th.--TA

trampled cliché or overindulged plot device in sight.--SB

www.salarazzmatazz.com. November 3rd until December 20th

www.alternativa.cccb.org. November 11th to 19th.

For more live events, visit our website: www.barcelona-metropolitan.com

30-33 LIVE PDF.indd 32

10/20/11 1:55:34 PM

ON 33



YES Sant Jordi Club

ELBOWCasino de l’Aliança

As early pioneers of progressive rock, British band YES have spent the last

Be warned, homesick British expats: Elbow’s Build a Rocket Boys! will have

four decades pushing musical boundaries with their experimental sound and

you weeping into your pillow. The latest offering from the scruffy northern

causing a stir in the art world with their innovative album covers (see above).

blighters who grew up and got happy, this is an album bursting with misty-

Although arguably less well known than, say, Pink Floyd, the London-born

eyed nostalgia. If its final line ‘Old friends… you are the stars I navigate home

band have actually sold nearly 50 million albums worldwide since their forma-

by’ doesn’t get you on Skype quick smart to speak to the mates you left

tion in the late Sixties and paved the way for a host of psychedelic-influenced

behind, nothing will.

bands. For those of you still scratching your head and wondering “who?”, stick

Back in the days when they were penniless and unsigned, they worked and caused havoc in the music venues of Manchester. When they weren’t pulling

epic Eighties’ track ‘Owner of a Lonely Heart’ on Spotify. Yes, that’s them.

pints, eyeing up pretty punters or teaching people how to fake break dance,


they were feverishly rehearsing or scribbling lyrics into notebooks, slogging

Having survived numerous line-up changes and a couple of legal battles (perhaps inevitable, given the longevity of the band), YES returned this sum-

away in the hope that one day they would make it big. And they did. It may have taken an age for the rest of the world to fall in

mer with their first album in 10 years, Fly From Here. So named after the

love with these boys from Bury but now the band play to packed out stadi-

band’s most recent reshuffle, Fly From Here is the first album to feature new

ums, win awards and never seem to be off the television and radio.

frontman Benoît David, following the departure of diminutive former lead

All those years spent honing their craft has paid off, in spades. Now, their

singer and founding member Jon Anderson in 2004. It also sees former key-

melodies are more complex, their harmonies richer and their lyrics even more

board player Geoff Downes return to the fold, in his first album appearance

poetic than before. And in a year which has seen them conquer Glastonbury,

with the group in over 30 years

release their critically-acclaimed fifth album and gain yet another nomination

The band’s newest album is a return to past form, with an epic 20-minute opening track, or in prog-rock talk, ‘suite’, and conceptual lyrics reminiscent of some of their best work from the Seventies. As bassist Chris Squire says,

for the Mercury Music Prize, for us at least, they’ve saved the best till last: this month they play Barcelona for the first time. Thanks to Primavera Sound and San Miguel the boys play Casino de

“It’s part of the YES of the Seventies and Eighties, but with a current twist.”

l’Aliança—a shabby yet chic old theatre in Poblenou—the perfect venue for

To accompany the release of the album, there is, of course, the obligatory

Elbow. Roomy enough to house their string quartet but intimate enough to

tour. Having already played the States this year (where the band are huge,

allow Guy Garvey’s voice to embrace you like a warm hug.

incidentally), YES land on European shores in early November for an autumn

It’s been years since the band have been able to play a room this small in

tour which includes two dates in Spain. And don’t assume the audience will

the UK, tickets are a steal at just €20 (€23 on the door) and they’re supported

be packed with ageing hippies. Okay, there may be a few, but anyone worth

by Howling Bells. All in all this promises to be a very special night indeed.

their musical salt knows YES is one of the finest bands of their generation. Seize the opportunity to see them play whilst you—and they—still can.--LW

30-33 LIVE PDF.indd 33

So join the angels and the drunks down the front if you can and welcome them to Barcelona with open arms.--NY

10/20/11 1:55:34 PM

34 ON

Serge Lifar y Alexandra Danilova a Appolon musagete, 1928, mostrando la primera versión de vestidos diseñados por Coco Chanel. Foto: Sasha © V&A Images

La maleta mexicana

Els ballets russos de Diaghilev 1909-1929

Local history aficionados were standing on top of each other at MNAC on

In 1909, a troupe of Russian dancers embarked on a staggering 20-year

a recent Sunday morning in order to view the recently recovered treasure

tour of Europe that was to transform dance from something that filled in

trove of images from the Spanish Civil War. And rightly so. Considered

time during opera intervals, into a multidisciplinary, multisensory experience.

forever lost for decades, the so-called ‘Mexican Suitcase’ of Robert Capa

Despite the turbulent backdrop of the First World War and the 1917 Russian

came to light in the Nineties and after years of scrupulous examination by

Revolution, which effectively exiled the company, the Ballets Russes

scholars, the 4,500 images from the Thirties have once again come alive.

shocked even the most enlightened of European audiences.

MNAC. Until January 15th, 2012

The ‘suitcase’ is actually three cardboard boxes of thoroughly labelled negatives, and since their rediscovery, they have formed part of the Capa archive at the International Center of Photography in New York. MNAC has mounted a handsome, but appropriately sober, installation that is visually integrated by a series of rebared walls that have the effect of making the visitor feel ‘caged in.’ It is a convincing device that leads one ever more deeply into the world of war and internal conflict that was Spain of the Thirties. Although Capa (born Endre Friedmann in Budapest in 1913) is given top

CaixaForum. Until January 15th, 2012

An exhibition now running at CaixaForum captures the spirit of the most successful, and financially disastrous dance troupe in history. Costumes, drawings and film clips, plus a series of talks and live concerts, piece together the story of the Ballets Russes, revealing that while performances were the product of a mishmash of creative imaginations, including those of designer Leon Bakst, artist Henri Matisse and composers Erik Satie and Claude Debussy, the driving force behind the troupe was the enigmatic, charismatic and autocratic entrepreneur Sergei Diaghilev—the Steve Jobs of dance. Diaghilev knew how to play an audience. Many performances were

billing, the photographs are also by Capa’s lover Gerda Taro (la pequeña

traditional or operatic (Prince Igor, 1909), some were inspired by Russian

rubia), and David ‘Chim’ Seymour. The three were pioneers in the field of

folk stories (Petrushka, 1911) then more radical works were dropped in.

photojournalism, and this complete record of war images, shown in its en-

Le sacre du printemps (1913) was set to a capricious musical score by

tirety and in the precise order in which they were taken, gives chronological

Igor Stravinsky; ballerinas moved on permanent pointe or pigeon toed. In

perspective to some of the better-known pictures.

the notorious L’après-midi d’un faune (1912), the climatic scene showed a

These include Capa’s Battle of Rio Serge photos, Chim’s famous image of a woman nursing a baby at a land reform meeting in Extremadura, and Taro’s last photos at the Battle of Brunete where she died in 1937. There are famous personalities from the era such as Ernest Hemingway, Federico García Lorca and Dolores Ibárruri (La Pasionaria), but Capa and company focused primarily on the grim faces of war: anonymous soldiers and civilians whose lives had been torn apart. The stills, negatives and contact sheets are complemented by documentary film from the era, which effectively create a rhythm to break up the static activity of peering at small black-and-white photographs and also enhances their historical content. Following its debut in New York the exhibition is next travelling to Bilbao,

young buck finding ‘personal satisfaction’ with a lady nymph’s scarf. Both were choreographed, and the latter performed, by Vaslav Nijinsky, a dancer with thighs like tree trunks who soared through the air as if held there on strings. Placing the male dancer centre-stage was one of many innovations of the troupe. Another was the outfits, in Jean Cocteau’s Parade (1917), dancers clunked about a set designed by Pablo Picasso, while Coco Chanel created ‘swimsuits’ for Le Tren Bleu (1924). She was one of the powerful society women who bailed out the Ballets Russes, always on the brink of bankruptcy. Choreographer Marie Rambert was another, called in on the 1912-1914 tour to convince distraught dancers to perform. When it ended, in 1929, it was not with the Wall Street Crash but with the

Madrid and Paris. Its universal language of pain and suffering and the

sudden death of its patron. Without Diaghilev the company fell apart, but

portrayal of the efforts to turn back global fascism, could thus reach a con-

all the great innovators of dance, from Pina Bausch to Merce Cunningham,

siderable audience both within and beyond the country in which the images

have been directly influenced by it, a lesson in creative enthusiasm over

were created.--Will Shank

adversity.--Alx Phillips

34-35 ARTS PDF.indd 52

10/24/11 11:44:02 AM

ON 35

Quick picks Ed Kashi, USA, VII Photo Agency. Nguyen Thi Ly, 9, suffers from Agent Orange disabilities, Da Nang, Vietnam

World Press Photo. CCCB. November 23rd to December 18th. cccb.org

3 Jacques Leonard—Pèlerinage gitan. Institut Français. Until January

14th, 2012. i�bcn.cat

Camps Invisibles. Geogra�ies de les ones ràdio. Arts Santa Mònica. Until March 4th, 2012. artssantamonica.cat

34-35 ARTS PDF.indd 53

10/24/11 11:44:07 AM


Beyond the great wall A

sk many of Barcelona’s chefs, critics and the food obsessed what the next big thing is likely to be and chances are they’ll say one of two things: South American or regional Chinese. The former hasn’t quite hit Barcelona yet, though my money’s on a rash of modern Peruvian places in the not-too-distant future. In the meantime, as the Chinese community here grows apace, so too do the fascinating dishes and talented cooks that come with them. Nanit doesn’t sound terribly Chinese and until recently you could easily miss it. But the husband-wife team who run it have brought mama into the fold who now hand makes dumplings and noodles in the window; the ultimate ‘show cooking’, which inevitably is drawing a crowd. This besides, Nanit is a small, basement restaurant in the Eixample boasting unremarkable décor and tables crammed together down a short flight of stairs. Yet they’re serving some of the best Chinese cooking in the city. The couple hail from Shanghai, the culinary heart of China, known as the place that invented yum cha (literally meaning ‘drink tea’ but which also involves eating dumplings) and a style of ‘red cooking’ that essentially translates to carefully constructed dishes that have been slowly cooked in big, pungent sauces based on soy, sugar and spices. In between these two extremes, the aim is to ensure the diner gets all taste sensations—sweet, salty, soft, hard, spicy, cooling, hot, cold, crunchy, gooey—and once properly combined you have, for very little money, a feast worthy of royalty. Indeed many of the dishes at Nanit would have been invented many moons ago in the imperial courts of Shanghai. The trick is in knowing what to order, particularly if your main experience of Chinese food has been the cheap buffet restaurants where tepid and terrible troughs of food slowly congeal into something nasty. Authentic Chinese by contrast is freshly made, bursting with flavour and often surprising like Nanit’s daily special on my last visit, which was a sticky stew of slow braised beef in honey liberally spiked with Szechuan pepper: tender,

earthy, sweet, with a clever shot of lip-numbing heat at the end. Dishes served in small portions straight from the grill, steamer or wok appeal to the Spanish love of grazing, while the self-fill menu card split into dumplings, hot, cold and sweet dishes makes navigating fairly easy. And it’s best enjoyed with a large group of friends or at least someone with a Herculean appetite so you can spread the wealth so to speak; at the very least aim for a spread of each of the menu ‘categories’ with a couple of specials on the side. I went with Australian friends who know a thing or two about food and let them do the ordering, which resulted in a couple of bamboo steamers of pork shuijiao (boiled dumplings) and prawn shao mai (pleated, steamed, open-topped dumplings) as well as some steamed Chinese buns plump as babies’ fists and a magnificently cooling dish of ‘la saliva de pollo’ (chicken saliva). If you can get past the name, you’ll be treated to tender steamed chicken in a light, cool soy broth topped off with fresh chillies and coriander. Buttery pork ribs tossed in a deeply aromatic black bean sauce, made a solid counterpart. To these we added side dishes of char siu (a style of barbecuing mainly meat, but sometimes tofu), rice with tofu and bamboo shoots, tallarines a la campesina (peasant noodles) tossed with vegetables that tasted like they’d just been plucked from the field, and a fragrant raw cabbage salad to give crunch. Try as I might I struggle to love Asian desserts—give me sticky toffee pudding any time—but the coconut-soya flan was a light, not-too-sweet way to finish and has all the makings of a classic. Traditionally, the ultimate goal in Chinese cuisine was to nourish without overstuffing in order to achieve a healthier physical and, by degrees, emotional state. I can report mild feelings of euphoria heading home. Nanit—Balmes 79 (with València). Tel. 93 451 9839. Open daily: 1 to 4.30pm and 8pm-midnight. €20-€25 per person for several shared dishes and a beer. Tara’s rating: ✪✪✪✪


Forget those ubiquitous cheap Chinese buffets—this is one restaurant serving up authentic Shanghai dishes. By Tara Stevens. Photo by Richard Owens.

Read TARA’S food and drink blog for the latest gourmet news and reviews: www.barcelona-metropolitan.com

36-37. food & drink PDF.indd 56

10/24/11 11:00:45 AM



by Tara Stevens

tortillitas de camarones


Photo by Tara Stevens

very region of Spain has its speciality and although Andalucía often comes under fire for having the worst cooking in the country, it does turn out the occasional gem. These shrimp fritters are a staple of the Atlantic Coast around Cádiz, particularly the town of El Puerto de Santa María, or the Port of Sherry, as it is popularly known. Salty, crunchy, with a whack of sweetness from the prawns, these are among the finest tapas in the land. It goes without saying that served with a snifter of bone-dry fino or manzanilla they make a very good start to any party. My thanks to Rick Stein for kindly letting me recreate his recipe here.

INGREDIENTS (MAKES 16) Recipe taken from Rick Stein’s Spain (2011), courtesy of BBC Books · 175g raw, peeled prawns · 175g plain flour · ½ tsp baking powder · 300ml water · 1 tbsp dry white wine · 2 spring onions, thinly sliced · 1 tbsp chopped flat-leaf parsley · Olive oil for shallow frying · Salt

Method Cut the prawns into ½ cm thick pieces. Sift the flour, baking powder and a pinch of salt into a bowl. Make a well in the centre and add the water and wine. Mix together to make a thick, creamy batter. Fold in the prawns, spring onions and parsley. Pour ½ cm of olive oil into a frying pan and place over a high heat. Leave until a drop of the batter sizzles immediately then, in small batches of 2 to 3 at a time, drop large spoonfuls of the batter into the pan, spreading each one out a little with the back of the spoon to get lovely thin, crispy edges as they cook. Turn the fritters every now and then for about 2 minutes, or until puffed up and golden on both sides. Remove with a slotted spoon and drain on a tray lined with kitchen paper. Eat immediately.

36-37. food & drink PDF.indd 57

10/24/11 11:00:48 AM


Lunch with... Tara Stevens talks food business with Xavier Sánchez, who has opened two uptown gourmet sandwich bars.


ocated on Via Augusta and Amigó, near the British Council, Xavier Sánchez’s gourmet sandwich bars may just turn out to be the Catalan equivalent of Starbucks. Certainly he’s got all the right moves from the décor—a bright airy space with wooden floorboards, custom-made tables and painted metal chairs made in Bisbal—to the food: a simple, satisfying menu of salads, sandwiches, juices and high-grade coffee that is fast becoming a daily staple for neighbourhood residents. The lunch: SandwiChez* Lentil salad with the Moroccan spice trader mix Ras al Hanout, couscous salad with roast tomatoes and pine nuts, Delhi ‘brick’ sandwich with chicken, ginger and cardamom and Mexican wrap with chicken, cheese, coriander and Chipotle chilli dressing. Chef ’s juice of orange, carrot and apple. Have you always been in the restaurant business? I studied hospitality in the US and started working for the Viena group in 1995. They are a big organisation with 30 restaurants across Catalunya and 1,500 employees, but I liked their very simple approach to food: good sandwiches, burgers, hot dogs. My plan was to stay with them two years, but I moved up the ladder to director general and ended up being there 12. I finally decided to start out on my own with the opening of SandwiChez* on Via Augusta in November 2010. Why sandwiches? I wanted to do something very simple and easy. I’m not one for fine dining. I like good food, but honest food made with prime ingredients. SandwiChez* is a reflection of the modern lifestyle: fast food, accessibly priced, in a comfortable environment. I also wanted a heart-of-the-barrio kind of a place. Somewhere you’d go every day for a coffee, breakfast or lunch, not just once in a blue moon. Where do you source ingredients? We try to keep it very local so right now we use four different bakeries for the breads, we get the same oil that we use at home from a cooperative in Lleida, the yogurt and milk comes from a small dairy in Vic.

38 Lunch with PDF.indd 42

What do you think of the food scene in Barcelona these days? You can get pretty much anything you want in Barcelona, but I’d like to see more places where you can go with children and the rest of the family and still have good quality food in a comfortable atmosphere. I’m not so much into trends; I like quality and places that have longevity. Somewhere you can go year after year and know what you are going to get is good. Xavier recommends Near here I like Casa Fernández (Santaló 46) for simple, wellcooked food. I have four kids aged between five and 15, so for a family get-together I like Casa Jacinto (Gran Via de Carles III 29-31) for excellent, unfussy Navarrese cooking. SandwiChez* Via Augusta 117, tel. 93 209 3905 and Amigó 63, tel. 93 209 0707. Open daily, 8am-11pm. Approx €10 for a juice, salad and a sandwich.

10/20/11 1:54:24 PM

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main pages Oct 2011 .indd 8


10/21/11 1:42:53 PM


For more in food&drink NEFW &D IN

visit our online directory

Bar 7SinS Bar and lounge 4EIXAMPLE E If you’re looking for a friendly and good value place to get a bite to eat, 7Sins is the place you’re looking for! Their menu has a vast selection of dishes to share as well as a large choice of gourmet 100% beef burgers. After your meal there’s an elegant lounge with Chesterfield sofas and impressive decor, ideal for having a drink or cocktail. 7Sins also has a terrace where you can enjoy a meal or a drink outdoors. You can see their full menu at www.7sinsbar.com 

www.barcelona-metropolitan.com/eating-and-drinking  UNDER 20 |  20-30 |  30-40 |  OVER 40 rv reservation advised | NEW in food & drink this month

Bakery maS PaStiSSerS Established in 1966, Mas Pastissers have a long tradition of pastry-making in Barcelona. Since then, they’ve continued to create explosions of flavours in their bakeries. Through experience and research they’re constantly improving to make small works of art. All of Mas Pasitssers’ products are made from the perspective that they have a personal responsibility to their customers to help them maintain a healthy and balanced diet. The Slow Food philosophy is found in their line of products. 



ice cream Shop

Bar - live music


Corsega 398 | Tel. 93 207 0764 Passeig Maragall 66 | Tel. 93 455 1987 Passeig Maragall 269 | Tel. 93 435 4873

V.o.S cineBar4 SarriÀ & EiXaMPLE Ever wished you could share a cocktail with Audrey Hepburn and Humphrey Bogart here in Barcelona? Well now you can! Cinebar brings the golden age of cinema back to Barcelona with original version screenings of everything from Hollywood classics to French New Wave and Italian neo-realism. While you’re there, enjoy a ‘cine sandwich’ made from a selection of rustic breads, a movie-themed salad, fresh juices, smoothies, proper Italian coffee or, of course, a cocktail. 


Plaça Cardona 4 | Metro GràciaCarrer | Paris 200 | Metro Diagonal Tel. 93 002 2300 | Open 8am-3am n

a so you c ubtitles s h it w e ackdrop from th d as a b d music te screene c le e Be mY Bagel 4GrÀcia s lly FlahertY'S4Barri Gòtic refu y the ca u could also enjo Do you dream of great bagels? Then Be My Bagel is the right place ished yo es. it was established in 2001, Flaherty’s ixtiSince ls rw veyou for you. They sell authentic bagels from Barcelona, just how to the S has become one of Barcelona’s best known cocktai a n Thirties o l e c like them. They have an extensive range of bagels and cakes, from ar r and busiest Irish pubs. By offering ade food share B the classic choices such as multigrain to chocolate and coconut. wich’ m (including pburn o e e satilndmidnight all day from 10am H in ‘c y a e y r d njo Full Irish Breakfasthas ed as re, epopular . Planeta 37 (Pl. del Sol) I Metro L3 Fontana and Gràcia I -t emwell ’re theour with Au you can a moviesports on big w Tel. 93 518 7151 I bemybagel@gmail.com hile you ds, satellite group menus), live o a W N re b ? c t e ar Open from Mon-Fri 9.30-2pm and 5pm-8.30pm, of rustiWiFi, a sunny terrace coaffepool nscreens, nand rey Bog er Italia selectio Sat 10am-2.30pm, 6pm-10pm, Sun 10.30am-2pm ropalso s, pcan from a room where you play darts, not ie Humph th o o a es, sm rdona is esh juicto mention its very spacious premises, salad, fr Plaza Ca Flaherty’s in R A il.has rightly become known as B ere’s a cockta Bellamia heladeria italiana4BOrNopened CINE ws is, th course, the pub that has it all!  ly e f w n o e d n r, o o e o Th d the g C/ , fans an After a long day of discovering Barcelona, people queue up to taste 00 (with for film r events t e n g a /Paris, 2 for you Bellamia’s exquisite gelato. The reason: friendly staff,man excellent C n n o o ti a g c ky ect lo openin location, but most of all, delicious, freshly made ice cream that to swan the perf r branch ebar is festivals anothe gets rave reviews from everyone who’s tried it.  in . C lm th fi n i o in this m and m nados) ken not jections ni – sha Enric Gra from pro Plaça Joaquim Xirau artiDrassanes |M Metro a ’s r it ocktail, the6263 Tel. 93e412 a back Epaseria 14 | Metro Jaume I | Tel. 93 310 4210 pagne c s. So wh m f cinem e a o é h e ir C g o a a s n 1pm-midnight (50m from Santa Maria del Mar) fter or f e golde kid. you’re a nings o brings th g at you n scree d – that io e rr rs Cinebar e ti ’s lookin s v l re a e take-away in H g r. ri a o h nch Cineb lona wit nd it at ics to Fre to Barce you’ll fi od class o w y ll margarita Blue Pim Pam Burger4BOrN o re H films a ing from 4Barri Gòtic lism. All a everyth e -r o e Here quality is of the upmost importance, Italian n ave and Located in the heart of old Barcelona, making it the best burger and frankfurter New W Margarita Blue has become a classic take-away in town. Special hamburgers, in the city’s bar scene. Delight in the chicken burgers, bratwurst, frankfurters, dishes from the ‘‘Mexiterranean” kitchhome-made chips and stroganoff are en, such as a variety of tacos, amazing also available and are all prepared on the ar b guacamole, fresh carpaccio and tomates  Cine premises. verdes fritos or take pleasure in a drink or cocktail whilst appreciating new rdona 4 music and spectacular shows that alterPlaza Ca s 200 ari P r nate between theatre and performance e Carr art.  970 971 1 5 6 l. Te 2300 93 002

Josep Anselm Clave 6 | Metro Drassanes Tel. 93 412 5489 | www.margaritablue.com | Mon-Fri 1.30pm-4pm, 8pm-2.30am, Sat-Sun 6pm-2.30am | RV VOS Bar Dec 2010.indd 1

Food & drink Nov 2011.indd 44

Muntaner 7 | Metro Universitat | Tel. 93 453 6445 www.7sinsbar.com | Mon-Fri 11am-3am, Sat-Sun 6pm-3am | RV

Sabateret 4 I Metro Jaume I Tel. 93 315 2093 burger@pimpamplats.com I www.pimpamburger.com Every day 1pm-12am 11/2/10 12:25:47 PM

10/24/11 1:44:31 PM

FOOD & DRINK 41 delivery gourmet eXPreSS4 BarcELONa ‘Lunch Box’ by Gourmet Express. The best alternative to pizza or Asian food. A new concept in Barcelona; they are specialists in delivering high-quality food to your home or office at reasonable prices. They can deliver within 30 minutes, exquisite menús, made by our own chefs using only the freshest products. Traditional Catalan and Mediterranean food to satisfy the most discerning palate, thoughtfully served with all you might need, including metal cutlery and glasses. All so you can enjoy food in the comfort of your home or office. Free delivery to readers of Barcelona Metropolitan.  Pasaje Milans 28 | Tel. 93 260 0789 www.gourmet-express.es

Vitali PiZZa Special Metropolitan offer: Buy 3 pizzas and get the 4th pizza FREE + a bottle of Lambrusco. 

hard rocK caFe4ciUtat vELLa Paris 109 I Metro Hospital Clinic I Tel. 93 444 4737 Gran Via 931 I Metro Clot | Tel. 93 303 0735 Taxdirt 13 I Metro Joanic/Gracia | Tel. 93 285 41 95 www.vitalipizza.com

international the dog iS hot4ravaL Taste the best hotdogs in town! Choose from more than 20 different toppings and sauces, including a vegetarian option with tofu sausage. Our specialities will surprise, with crazy flavours from all around the world.


Joaquin Costa 47 I Near Plz. Universidad and MACBA Museum I T. 93 185 9517 Open every day 1pm-11pm, delivery fri-sun 7pm-11pm www.thedogishot.com or call for our delivery service

Hard Rock Cafe Barcelona offers an inspired, creative ambience with incredible rock‘n’roll memorabilia on display. Come and taste authentic American food. Their barbecue entrées slow cooked in the cafe’s hardwood smokers are delicious. Visit the bar to try a premium cocktail and check out the live music and special events on offer. Don’t forget to stop at the Rock Shop for fine, classic, cotton T-shirts or a collectable Hard Rock pin.  Pinktober charity event with COTI on the 3rd November at 10pm.

Plaça Catalunya 21 | Metro Catalunya | Tel. 93 270 2305 | www.hardrock.com/barcelona | Restaurant: Sun-Thurs 12am-2am, Fri, Sat and hol eves 12am-3am | Rock Shop: Sun-Thurs 10am-1.30am, Fri, Sat and hol eves 10am-2am

gut4GrÀcia Firstly there’s the food. Using only the finest quality ingredients, the kitchen specialises in Mediterranean cuisine with an international twist and plenty of options for vegetarians. Try their quinoa and tofu burgers or a sinful home-made dessert. Secondly, there’s Gut’s attention to detail and the friendly, respectful service. It’s the perfect place to have a drink and enjoy the night in good company. Try it for yourself and find out why everyone is talking about Gut. 

Perill 13 I Metro Diagonal Tel. 93 186 6360 I restaurantgut@gmail.com

PinK elePhant4 EiXaMPLE Craving something from home? Owned and operated by an American chef, the Pink Elephant, now in its third year, offers exciting contemporary American cuisine accompanied by an extensive cocktail menu made with home-made fruit juices and fresh herbs. All of our moist, delicious desserts are made on the premises as well. Don’t forget Thanksgiving is coming up and this year our menu will be better than ever! Details will be available soon on our blog.  Villarroel 82 I Metro L1 Urgell/L5 Hospital Clinic Tel. 93 502 4825 I info@pinkelephantlounge.com www.pinkelephantrestaurante.com Mon-Fri 1pm-4pm, 7pm-1am, Sat 1pm-4pm, 7pm-3am, Sun 7pm-1am

Food & drink Nov 2011.indd 45

Fahrenheit4EiXaMPLE E Fahrenheit is a cosmopolitan location that combines fine dining within a modern sophisticated lounge. Already a highly-rated kitchen, Fahrenheit’s restaurant recently introduced an acclaimed new chef and completely new menu. Each dish originates from a different country and is carefully elaborated to respect the traditions of that cuisine while adding a very contemporary touch. Fahrenheit is the perfect place to savour your meal and relax with a drink after dinner. Try one of our carefully prepared cocktails or maybe something from our extensive list of gin and tonics—the house speciality. Fahrenheit’s new ‘Afterwork Lounge’, is a great place to enjoy a complimentary tapa with a glass of wine or international beer to help you unwind after a long day in the office. 

Aribau 131 | Metro Diagonal/Hospital Clinic | Tel. 93 531 3435 | reservas@131Fahrenheit.com www.131Fahrenheit.com

10/24/11 1:44:36 PM

42 FOOD & DRINK the original american SuPermarKet 4SaNt GErvaSi


Good news from Taste of America! All of the products you miss from the U.S.A. from BBQ sauces to breakfast treats are now in Barcelona. Cheerios, Hershey’s chocolates, peanut butter and jelly, Newman’s Own sauces, Wilton, root beer, Peperidge Farm, marshmallows, macarroni & cheese, bagels and more are just some of the goodies that await discovery. Go visit, you’ll be amazed! And for your convenience, there is public parking right at the rear of the store! Carrer Balmes 322 I Metro Sant Gervasi Tel. 93 211 9792 I Mon-Fri 10am-9pm, Sat 10.30am-9pm, Sun 11am-2pm


Juice and Smoothie Bar


JuicY JoneS 4GOticO Barcelona’s quintessential juice bar, Juicy Jones has more than 15 years experience. Always fresh, always vegan, they serve a variety of over 50 juices and smoothies. Vegan, tapas, salads, sandwiches and a menú del diá served all day for just  8.50. Beware of imitations!  Cardinal Casañas 7 | Metro Liceu | Tel. 93 302 4330 Every day 10am-11pm

Sano 4GrÀcia - Barri Gòtic - SaNtS

Want a healthy, tasty alternative? Try a refreshing smoothie like Antioxidant, Mango & Passion Fruit or Coco Muesli (3.80) or a delicious juice made only with fresh blended fruit and no added water, milk or sugar (3.60). Can’t decide? Try one of their convenient combos from 4.50.  Gran de Gràcia 16 | Metro Diagonal | Tel. 93 217 8115 Jaume 1 | Metro Jaume I | Tel. 93 310 3247 Creu Coberta 50 | Metro Espanya | Tel. 93 117 0891 Every day 10am-8pm | info@sanojuice.com | www.sanojuice.com

toYo - SuShi train4GrÀcia Among the youth it’s the most sought after Sushi Train Restaurant in Barcelona. It’s the absolute place to be if you’re in with the in crowd and always packed five minutes after opening. It has a quality buffet with super fresh food prepared daily, Toyo is the place to go. Not only do they have a huge amount of different types of dishes, but you can also eat as much as your heart desires. Choose what you like while it passes in front of you, you don’t have to spend a fortune to get great service. Toyo gives you amazing food for a good price. The midday menu is only 10 and the evening one is 15. Take advantage of this great deal and have a wonderful dinner at Toyo. 

Torrent del Olla 10 | T. 93 459 2630 | www.restaurantetoyo.com Open 1.30pm-4pm, 8.30pm-Midnight | Closed Mon night

indian - hindu Veg World4GrÀcia


Discover a world of sensations in a relaxed and homely atmosphere. Try vegetarian delicacies from all over the world such as delicious bread home-made in a Tandoori oven and south Indian dishes like Masala dosa and Idly. Daily continental and Indian menus, 9.50 inc. Free soup and salad buffet. 

If you want to enjoy the best sushi service in the city, this is your place! Sushiexpress takes great pride in using top quality ingredients to ensure excellent sushi. They are conveniently located in two places in the city: l’Eixample and Santaló, and they can deliver it to your home or hotel. Delivery is from 1pm-3pm and from 8pm-11pm. You can choose individual pieces of maki, nigiri, sashimi, temaki, menus, combos, and other Japanese specialties from an extensive menu that you can check on their website. If you eat at any of their locations at noon the menus are accompanied by a free drink.  Consell de Cent 255 | Tel. 93 451 5454 Open 12pm-4pm, 7pm-11pm 365days/year! Delivery 1pm-3pm, 8pm-10.30pm

Bruniquer 26 | Metro Plaça Joanic Tel. 93 210 7056 | Tues-Sun 1pm-4pm, 8pm-11.30pm


Japanese - Sushi naKaShita4BOrN

BarnaBier 4POrt OLiMPic

Nakashita is Barcelona’s newest sushi restaurant, a cosy place where you can enjoy the best Japanese food and freshest seafood. Located close to the Arc de Triomf, the restaurant feels like an authentic Japanese tavern with a very intimate atmosphere. Enjoy your delicious food along with wine, Japanese beer or sake. 

Located at the base of the Mapfre tower at Port Olimpic Barnabier specialise in Mediterranean cuisine, paellas, fresh seafood, tapas and have a great list of international beers. Their fantastic menu also includes salads, grilled meat and pasta with something to suit all tastes. They serve daily breakfast, lunch and dinner. For group reservations of 10 or more please contact to check availability. Consult their website for the complete menu. 

Rec Comtal 15 | Metro Arc De Triomf, Tel. 93 295 5378 | www.nakashitabcn.com Mon-Sun 1.30pm-4.30pm, 8.30pm-12am

Food & drink Nov 2011.indd 46

Marina 16 | Metro Port Olimpic Tel . 93 221 0212 | www.barnabier.com

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FOOD & DRINK 43 Thai Thai4EIXAMPLE E Thai Thai restaurant invites you to taste and enjoy traditional Thai food with tropical ingredients from Thailand prepared by Thai chefs. They specialise in all kinds of Thai curries. Thai Thai has created a delicious tasting menu for only 24 and a fresh menu of the day is on offer for 9.50 during the week.  Diputació 91 | Metro Urgell | Tel. 620 938 059 | www.thaithai.es Princep Jordi 6 | Metro España | Tel. 663 126 398 | Every day 1pm-4pm, 8pm-12am | RV | www.thaithaibcn.com

Vegetarian amaltea4EIXAMPLE E Visit Amaltea vegetarian restaurant where tasty and healthy meals are served in a welcoming environment. Dishes include cereals, pulses and vegetables with home-made puddings. The cuisine is creatively international with care taken to ensure all ingredients are fresh and dishes are well balanced. Menu of the day 10.50, night and weekend menu 15.  Diputació 164 | Metro Urgell | Tel. 93 454 8613 | www.amalteaygovinda.com Mon-Sat 1pm-4pm, 8.30pm-11.30pm, Closed Sun

JUICY JONES – VEGAN RESTAURANT 4Raval Spain’s only vegan restaurant, Juicy Jones never compromises on freshness or quality. They serve a range of Mediterranean and Indian cuisine with a funky ambience they also offer a large variety of freshly squeezed fruit juices and smoothies. Don’t be fooled by imitations. Go Juicy! 

Romero4 EIXAMPLE D Located in the centre of the city, just a few streets from Passeig de Grácia, this exquisite and charming restaurant serves fresh, organic produce sourced directly from local markets. The staff are determined to share their love for Barcelona and its culinary wonders and only use the best ingredients to create their delicious dishes. The idea behind the restaurant was to create a unique space where good friends could come together and enjoy great Mediterranean food and wine. The chef at Romero, José Antonio Camacaro León, has an unmatched passion for food and offers his guests creative, natural dishes based on Mediterranean cuisine. With options for vegetarians and gluten-free menu items, there’s something to suit all tastes. Be sure to check out the great value set menus and daily specials too. 

Carrer Hospital 74 | Metro Liceu | Tel. 93 443 9082 | Every day 12pm-1am

Govinda (VEGETARIAN)4BARRI GÒTIC A restaurant veteran for 24 years, Govinda specialises in vegetarian Indian cuisine. The international menu features talis, a salad bar, natural juices, lassis, pizzas and crêpes. It offers a veganfriendly, non-alcoholic and authentically decorated environment with lunch and weekend menus. 

Bailén 115 | Metro Verdaguer or Girona | Tel. 93 457 0640 info@romerobcn.com | www.romerobcn.com | Mon to Sat Lunch starting at 1pm Mon-Fri 5pm-9pm, Thu-Sat Dinner starting at 8.30pm

Placa Villa de Madrid 4-5 | Metro Catalunya | Tel. 93 318 7729 | www.amalteaygovinda.com | Tue-Sat 1pm-4pm, 8.30pm-12am, Sun-Mon 1pm-4pm


Mexican FRIDA'S4EIXAMPLE D In the heart of L’Eixample Dret, Frida’s is an inviting spot dedicated to the great Mexican painter Frida Kahlo. Taste exquisite regional cuisine from both northern and southern Mexico, as well as traditional specialties. Margaritas, Mexican beers and many types of tequila. Ask for our “Al Pastor” tacos offer of Thursday and Fridays! 


Bruc 115 | T. 93 457 5409 | Metro Girona Tue-Sat 1pm-4pm, 8.30pm-midnight. Bar open all day. Lunch menu 10.30 Mon-Fri

Thai Thai gracia4GRACIA Expect authentic ingredients all imported from Thailand and cooked by experienced Thai chefs. The Pad Thai and green and yellow curries have excellent subtle flavours. Simply delicious! The special tasting menu for 21 is a huge hit and allows you to try all the exotic dishes Thai Gracia has to offer. An affordable 11 menú del diá is available during the week. The warm hospitality and attention to detail to every dish at Thai Gracia will keep you coming back for more. 

Còrsega 381 | Metro Verdaguer / Girona Tel. 93 459 3591 | www.restaurante-thai-gracia.com Every day 1pm-4pm, 8pm-12am | RV

Food & drink Nov 2011.indd 47

Bun bo ViÊtnam4Barri Gòtic Satisfy your craving for fresh, healthy Vietnamese food just steps away from the Gothic cathedral. Sit under the leafy trees of the quiet terrace or inside the restaurant which is entirely decorated with bright colourful pieces straight from Saigon. Start with delicious fresh summer rolls, crispy Asian pork lettuce cups, followed by traditional Pho or Bun noodle dishes. Accompany your meal with a fresh and exotic cocktail like the sakirinha (caipirinha made with sake). The menu of the day is an affordable 10 inside and 11 on the shady terrace. The kitchen is open non-stop all day. 

Sagristans 3 | Metro Urquinaona | Tel. 93 301 1378 | www.bunbovietnam.com | Every day 1pm-1am

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Business directory To advertise in this section, call:

93 451 4486 or email: ads@barcelona-metropolitan.com

See also our online directory at www.barcelona-metropolitan.com

Scissors of London -


Carrer Viladomat 45-47, Atico M. 633 382 787 timbulmer@btinternet.com

Pintor Fortuny 14, Raval Metro: Catalunya (L1, L3) T. 93 302 3379 www.kinkipeluqueros.es Open Mon 4pm-8pm, Tues-Fri 11am-9pm, Sat 10.30am-8pm

BRITISH HAIRDRESSER Tim aspires to listen to your needs and suggests how they might be met in distinctive and exciting ways. Style is unique and Tim will craft you a look achieving a harmony of shape and style. Tim has been hairdressing for over 12 years. Having trained, taught and worked in London’s top salons including Toni & Guy and Vidal Sassoon. Opting out of salon life, Tim works to fit in with the modern pace of life and offers a one to one service orientated around your needs.

Kinki peluqueros is an international hairstyling group from Holland with over 40 salons in their home country. They put their heart and soul into cutting and colouring the most beautiful hairstyles, from the latest trends to classic cuts. If you bring a friend for a full treatment they will give you both a 15% discount and a free glass of cava. English, Spanish, Dutch, German and French speaking.


Anthony Llobet English Hair Salon - HAIRDRESSER


Don’t let your Spanish come between you and your hair. Anglo-Catalan Anthony Llobet has over 20 years’ experience in hairstyling and a passion for excellent client service. Anthony leads a dedicated team of stylists who specialise in a variety of services, including Afro hair, extensions, straightening and make-up (and speak over 11 languages between them). The original retro interior and friendly staff create a very special atmosphere where you can relax and enjoy a stylish cut. Put your trust in Anthony and the team, who are strongly committed to providing you with outstanding service at affordable prices.

What sets apart an Aveda beauty professional? Their mission is to bring out their client’s natural beauty. Aveda partners with salon and spa professionals around the world. They see beauty as a craft and believe that authentic beauty is one that works in harmony with nature. Authentic beauty cares for the environment we inherited and that we’ll leave to the generations that follow us. Authentic beauty cares about society, creating harmony in the way we live and the way we interact with one another as human beings. Taller lives this mission to the full, offering gentle and natural hair and beauty treatments in a unique and beautiful space in the heart of the Born.

Gràcia, C/Ros de Olano 19 T. 93 218 0449 / 639 931 555 Raval, C/Sant Pau 122 T. 93 441 3177 / 645 257 506 Eixample, C/Córsega 364 T. 93 457 4211 / 691 330 188 El Born, C/Carders 34 T.93 295 4871 7 645 257 628 Gòtic, C/Avunyó 34 T. 93 301 4513 / 691 676 363 www.anthonyllobet.com

Pescateria 8, Born T. 93 315 0980 Metro: Barceloneta (L4) Open Mon 2pm-8pm; Tues-Sat 11am-8pm

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La Hair Boutique -

The Vital Touch - MASSAGE

Trained by Toni & Guy London, Veronique runs a friendly salon with a dedicated team who speak English, Spanish, French and Swedish. La Hair Boutique is a relaxed and cosy salon that offers progressive cuts and colours with great style advice too. They are especially talented at creating new, personalised looks using the latest techniques.

The Vital Touch Barcelona Massage Clinic helps stressed women and men, to relax, energise, re-balance and improve their health and lifestyle with a therapeutic, holistic full-body massage. - Deep tissue massage with Japanese acupressure points. - Helps relieve tension, reduces stress and removes physical strains. - Hot stone massage also available - Central Barcelona location.

Plaça Regomir 5 Metro: Jaume 1 (L4). T. 93 269 1937 M. 699 643 462 www.hairboutiquebarcelona.com

T. 659 995 657 nunu@thevitaltouch.com www.tvtbarcelona.com


Pharmacy Serra Mandri


The helpful and qualified pharmaceutical staff at this wellknown Barcelona chemist can help and advise each client to ensure they get exactly what they need. They also stock a great range of products, including homeopathy, natural medicine, aromatherapy and organic cosmetics. The pharmacy is open 365 days a year and also offers a home delivery service.

20% OFF for metropolitan readers

Bonavet - VETERINARY CLINIC Professional and friendly, the Bonavet veterinary clinic provides veterinary consultations, x-rays, analyses and surgery. They can also advise you on dietary requirements and stock a complete range of special food products, beds and toys to keep your pets healthy and happy. If you make an appointment you can even bring your pet down for a grooming session and trim.

Av. Diagonal 478 Metro: Diagonal (L3, L5) Chemist T. 93 416 1270 Homeopathy T. 93 217 3249 Open every day 9am-10pm

Plaça Bonanova 10, 08022 T. 93 211 0204

Mary D. McCarthy - DOCTOR

Dr. Steven Joseph - DOCTOR

Feel confident with Dr. Mary McCarthy, an American-trained doctor for adults. A native English speaker with over 20 years’ experience in Barcelona, Dr. McCarthy offers professional, private health care. She is a member of the American College of Physicians and is also certified as a Specialist by the American Board of Internal Medicine.

Established in 2005, Googol Medical Centre offers its patients comprehensive healthcare in a friendly, discreet and relaxed environment. UK doctor Steven Joseph provides a wide range of medical care for the English-speaking community in Barcelona with access to all medical specialties and tests.

Aribau 215 Pral. 1a T. 93 200 2924 M. 607 220 040 FGC Diagonal or Gràcia

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Gran Via Carles III nº-37-39 Metro: Les Corts (L3) T. 93 330 2412 M. 627 669 524 googol@hotmail.es www.googolmedicalcentre.com Open Mon-Sat

Dr. Christian Eickhoff deutsche zk - DENTIST

Tingsvall & McCarthy

Highly recommended among the international community uses the latest in dental technology like digital prothetics and orthodontics. The whole german team is English speaking and the doctor has an American training in implantology and orthodontics. Check-ups and X-rays are free. Centrally located

Dr. Stefan Tingsvall offers general dentistry, orthodontics, prosthodontics and endodontics, whilst Elena McCarthy is a qualified dental hygienist and specialises in comprehensive preventative care and tooth whitening Bright Smile. Together, they aim to provide a relaxing and pleasant experience for the patient.

Consell de Cent 249, bajos Metro Universitat (L1/L2) T. 93 323 9629 info@deutsche-zk.com

Castellnou 47 T. 93 205 1903 M. 636 312 522/696 664 430 FGC Les Tres Torres (L6) Bus: 16, 30, 66, 70, 72, 74 tingsvall.mccarthy@gmail.com www.tingsvall-mccarthy.com Open Mon-Sat


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Dra. Susana Campi - DENTIST

Dr. Alistair Gallagher - DENTIST

For all your dental needs, a team consisting of our first-class professionals can offer you excellent treatment. We have more than 30 years of experience and are pleased to offer you our services in English, German, French, Italian, Spanish and Catalan.

Any fears about going to the dentist or a possible language barrier are diminished here with the caring, relaxed atmosphere. Dr Alistair Gallagher’s clinic keeps up to date with the latest developments in dentistry in order to provide the best care possible, at affordable prices.

Rosselló 95, local, 08029, Barcelona Metro: Hospital Clinic (L5) Entença (L5) T. 93 322 9114 Fax. 93 322 0220

Diagonal 281 Metro: Sagrada Familia (L5) Monumental (L2) T. 93 265 8070 M. 607 332 335 alistair@thebritishdentalclinic.com www.thebritishdentalclinic.com

American Chiropractic Center - Doctors of Chiropractic


Do you suffer from problems such as lower back pain, sciatica, neck pain, headaches, shoulder and articular pain, discal hernia, fibromyalgia, or stress? Dr Chiappinelli and his team pride themselves on providing friendly and professional chiropractic care, with the clear aim of improving the patient’s health. The clinics, located in Barcelona and Sitges, have individual treatment rooms which are equipped with the most up-to-date and innovative technology. Dr. Chiappinelli and his team all qualified from the top American and French universities and have worked for 20 years to ensure and provide an unbeatable service. They speak English, French, German and Italian. Make an appointment at one of the clinics and let the team help you to reach your maximum health potential.

As a trained Life Coach, Counsellor and Emotional Therapist, I will help you to change situations you don’t like in your life. Life is your opportunity to learn and understand, and what life asks of you in return is to achieve that understanding so that you feel happy and gleaming with content. You did not come here to suffer, live in rage, envy, rancor, resentment, dissatisfaction or sadness; but to laugh, love and feel lucky. Maybe you have limiting or painful thoughts that make you believe that “this is all there is,” but in reality you have within your reach the fascinating power to change your way of life and relate to other people with well-being and happiness (even though right now it seems difficult or impossible).

Barcelona: Pau Claris, 139 3o 2a T. 93 487 5035 Metro: Passeig de Gràcia (L3, L5) Sitges: Rafael Llopart 74, T. 93 811 0101 www.bcnchiro.com

T. 676 698 529 consulta@tubienestarpersonal.com www.yourpersonalwellbeing.com


Nick Cross is a registered psychologist, specialised in psychotherapy. Psychotherapy can help you with the causes of distress and unhappiness and it provides treatment for anxiety, fears, relationship difficulties, depression, problems adjusting, loss and trauma.

T. 644 193 825 ncross@copc.es

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Hestia - PSYCHOTHERAPY The Hestia International Centre of Psychotherapy has become a reference in the city. The professional team work with individuals, couples and families through psychotherapy, coaching, counselling, clinical hypnosis, art therapy, NLP and EMDR. They speak English, Spanish, French, Italian, Dutch, German, Portuguese and Greek and the first consultation is free.

Passeig Sant Joan 180 Pral 2a Metro: Joanic (L4) T. 93 459 2802 info@hestia.es www.hestia.es

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Eugenia Espinosa PSYCHOTHERAPY

Eugenia is a dedicated professional who specialises in psychological issues related to immigration. She offers effective treatment for mood and anxiety disorders as well as couples and family therapy. The first consultation with Eugenia is free.

T. 677 090 479 genaespinosa@yahoo.com

Network of English Speaking Therapists Established since 2000


English-speaking clinical psychologist trained in Barcelona and the UK. Having worked in the UK for 17 years Mercè Boixet now works in Barcelona and offers psychological assessment and treatment to adults experiencing depression, anxiety, addictions, problems adjusting to life changes as well as difficulties coping with physical illness and neurological conditions. An initial half-hour consultation is free. Via Augusta 120 2º 1ª (Plaça Molina) M. 638 510 314 mboixet@copc.cat

Jonathan Lane Hooker

NEST is a dedicated team of Englishspeaking therapists who provide professional services to individuals, families, schools and companies. They include highly-qualified, licensed psychologists, psychotherapists and educational specialists who live and work in Barcelona and offer their outstanding services to the Englishspeaking community in the city. For more details of our practitioners, visit our website or see our advertisement in the main pages.

Jonathan Hooker can help if you’re looking for support, guidance or help with any aspect of your life. An English-speaking psychotherapist, counsellor, coach and guide, he is dedicated to helping people make sense of their lives. Jonathan provides one-to-one sessions or workshops for groups of four to 12 people. Metropolitan readers are invited to a free 20-minute introductory meeting.

- Psychotherapist


T. 93 590 7654 M.639 579 646 jonathan.hooker@yahoo.com www.jonathanhooker.com



Looking for help without the worry of getting lost in translation? This experienced team of builders provide a range of services, including renovations, bespoke carpentry, kitchens and bathrooms, decoration, shopfitting, electrical installations, IT networks, satellite TV, architectural services and exhibition stands. Get in touch with tProject for an obligationfree quote.

The Inysi Industrial team are professionals in plumbing and electrical services, air conditioning and satellite installation. Providing services for over 60 years to households and companies, no job is too big or too small for them. If you’re looking for someone reliable that you can trust, then get in touch today.


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Mercè Boixet - CLINICAL &


Manuel Isaías López, MD, PhD Claudia Ros Tusquets MA Clinical Psychologist Child and Adolescent Contact: John Steven Thorp Psychiatrist & Psychoanalyst & Psychotherapist 93 460 7803 M. 691 664 806 934 102 962T./ 657 570 692 686 991 742 john@tproject.eu All NEST professionals are Licensed / Certified


English - Spanish - Catalan - Dutch - German - Italian

Alcolea 42, Bajos Metro: Plaça de Sants (L1, L5) T. 657 994 630

Locksmith - SECURITY


Experts in security, Mastercerrajeros can help you keep your property secure. From a simple lock change to metal shutters, safety doors or installing the most advanced security system on the market, they will ensure you get the security solution you need. Their service is available 24 hours a day, seven days a week.

Explore Barcelona in style with Via Vespa. Rent a new and automatic Italian Vespa LX 50 and go from the beach to the hills, dive into the city centre and find your way through the charming little streets of Barcelona. Rent your vespa by the hour or take a tour with friends. The coolest way to see the city.

T. 607 886 622 info@mastercerrajeros.com

Princesa 56 T. 93 319 6754 M. 656 860 471 barcelona@via-vespa.com www.via-vespa.com

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Flat for sale - PROPERTY

Flat for sale - PROPERTY

Flat for sale (71m2) in the up and coming area of Poble-sec. 5th floor (including Principal) in a listed building with a lift. 3 bedrooms, lounge/ dining room, kitchen, bathroom and store room. Central heating and air conditioning, double glazing with aluminium frames and 3 balconies with lots of light. In the heart of Barcelona, 15 minutes to Las Ramblas and to the port. Well maintained, ideal for investors. Price: €245,000.

Fantastic central, bright, modern, flat just metres from Metro Paral·lel (L2 & L3). 46sqm, external, 1 double bedroom, communal terrace. Completely renovated 2010; parquet floors, new bathroom and kitchen. New appliances, available furnished if desired. Great location 30 seconds from metro Paral·lel/Pl. Molino. Walk to Sant Antoni Market, Ramblas or Montjuic. Would suit couple or investor. Price: €165,000.

To view call Annette M. 685 013 885 annettepacey@hotmail.com

To view call Victor M. 661 673 390

Graham Collins -


Graham Collins is an experienced interior designer and property consultant and can help with everything concerning property, design and decoration. So, whether you need help working out the property market or are looking for someone to renovate your home, Graham is here to help you.

Corase specialise in international removals and have a worldwide network of agents. You can trust them with any type of move, big or small. Their staff are attentive to each client’s needs and are trained to ensure that you get quality, speed and security. Corase also offer a range of other services, including storage facilities. They will be happy to give you a free quote.

Consolat del Mar 35, 3er Metro: Barceloneta (L4) T. 678 757 511 grahamcollinsbcn@gmail.com

Av. Diagonal 249 Metro: Monumental (L2) T. 900 702 270 (free) info@mudanzascorase.es www.mudanzascorase.es

Interior Design

Van - Removals VanBCN offers experience, good service and inexpensive rates to make your move or removal safe and easy. Whether you are looking for man with a van for a quick move or if you want to do a complete removal, just call or send your request online. VanBCN adapts its service to your needs. They can pick up your stuff or take it to the port, airport or storage. Deliver home your purchases from IKEA or any other shop. Move your office, your room or your house. Just contact VanBCN. They know how to do it. T. 93 426 7684 M. 647 533 344 www.vanbcn.com

BCN L.I.P. - LANGUAGE SCHOOL BCN L.I.P. Languages is a small school with a warm and welcoming atmosphere in Barcelona’s old town. They offer both intensive and extensive courses and it’s the perfect place to ensure success in your language immersion. The centre is equipped with the most advanced facilities to enable you to succeed in your chosen language.

T. 93 318 6591 info@bcnlip.com www.bcnlip.com

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BCN Metropol - LANGUAGE SCHOOL Study Spanish in one of Spain’s most established and prestigious language schools. Since 1982 Metropol have provided high-quality language training to students of all nationalities. The school is right in the heart of Barcelona city centre and it’s a great place to learn or improve your Spanish. It’s a popular and specialised school, with more than 27 years of experience and they offer great value Spanish courses for all levels. In order for every student to have the best experience possible, the qualified teachers use the Prisma method which is recognised by the Instituto Cervantes. The material is modern and effective for small groups and there is also free internet access. Metropol promises high quality at low prices and registration is free with this ad. Pau Claris 87, 1o1a Metro: Passeig de Gràcia (L2, L3, L4) T. 93 301 8241 www.bcnmetropol.com

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One-to-One -

SPANISH CLASSES Learn exactly what you need with one-to-one Spanish classes in the office or at home. Focus your classes on the language and vocabulary that best serves you according to your own personal or professional needs. Business Spanish and small group classes are also available. Get confident in Spanish with Pilar.

BUSINESS DIRECTORY 49 Versión Original -

Spanish for foreigners


The experienced teachers at Versión Original are thrilled to share their enthusiasm for the Spanish language and culture. This small city centre school, with classes of no more than 10 students, is devoted to languages, especially Spanish. There’s a great atmosphere here and a 5% discount for Metropolitan readers.

T. 610 057 266

Gran Via 636, 1o 1a A Metro: Passeig de Gràcia (L2, L3, L4) T. 93 412 4576 info@versionoriginalbcn.com www.versionoriginalbcn.com

Languages4Life -

Kingsbrook - LANGUAGE

Languages4Life is a small school in a charming building in the heart of Eixample. Our teaching method is visual and intuitive thanks to our interactive classrooms which have tactile whiteboards and internet. We have inspirational native teachers who have experience in language instruction. Access to internet on Macs or via WiFi.

Kingsbrook have been helping people learn Spanish in a simple, pleasant and fun way since 1985. The school is located in the heart of Barcelona and has a team of experienced and dedicated staff. In order to create an optimal learning environment, the school ensures that classes have only between 7-10 students.



València 275 3o Metro: Passeig de Gràcia (L2, L3, L4) T. 93 487 5116 learn@languages4life.com Skype languages4life

Trav. de Gràcia 60 Metro: Diagonal (L3, L5) T. 93 209 3763 info@kingsbrookbcn.com www.kingsbrookbcn.com



Right in the heart of Barcelona, Speakeasy Language School offers highquality intensive Spanish courses at attractive prices. Founded in 2001, Speakeasy is committed to being one of the best Spanish language schools in Spain. A quality service is guaranteed with a combined staff of Spanish and foreign internationals. Students come from all over the world and there are never more than 10 students in each group. Speakeasy has modern AV equipment available to aid learning and also spacious, air-conditioned classrooms. The highly-qualified and experienced teachers, together with the excellent course plan, are the keys to their success and the reason why more than 99% of their students recommend Speakeasy.

Learn Spanish with them in Barcelona, it’s easy! There are new courses starting every month and you can choose between 10, 20 or 30 hours a week in the morning or afternoon. The school promises small groups, and conversational or business classes are also available. They have over 50 years experience and guarantee the best teaching quality to achieve successful results. Those at Bindung consider themselves to be a leading reference for any cultural, entrepreneurial or formative action between cultures. One of their main purposes is to create a meeting space to encourage Spanish learning and facilitate communication between cultures. Their courses aim to train students to achieve a good command of Spanish by focusing on reading, listening, writing and speaking.

Ronda Universitat 7, 1o 3a Metro: Universitat (L1, L2) T. 93 342 7197 www.speakeasybcn.com

Ausiàs March 26 Metro: Urquinaona (L1) T. 93 311 5824 info@bindungbarcelona.com

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Libby Barnes -

François Roudière (Dip. Mus,

Ever dreamed of playing the piano? Now you can, with enthusiastic teacher Libby Barnes. Libby has over 15 years’ experience and can teach a variety of styles, including classical, jazz, blues and rock. Everybody from complete beginners to the advanced can improve with every session. It is never too late to learn, and Libby’s classes are available to all ages, at all levels.

François has 18 years’ experience teaching music and languages in the UK to both adults and children. He will adapt to every individual requirement and tailor his lessons to the needs and pace of each student. Learn to play the piano for fun, to entertain your friends or study for the ABRSM or other exams. He teaches beginners to intermediate level. If you wish, you can also practise your French, English or Spanish while you learn the piano.



T. 603 506 861 francois@roudiere.co.uk

T. 679 796 281 barnes.libby@hotmail.com

Mrs.Q design studio -



George Cowdery is a freelance Mac technician who has been providing valuable support to the Mac community in Barcelona for over 15 years. Among the services he offers, George can help clients with maintenance and upgrades, hard drive replacement and ADSL setup. He can also provide consulting and tutorials according to his clients’ needs.

Need a logo, brochure or poster? Mrs.Q design studio can design it for you. They work in partnership with their clients to ensure that their visions can be expanded upon to create a unique solution. Mrs.Q design studio has a fresh and creative outlook on every project. Whether you want branding, tailor made wedding invitations or advertising—let them come up with a visionary original design.

T. 606 308 932 machelp@geomac.es

T. 699 260 938 mrsqdesignstudio@gmail.com



BritSat offer great television packages so you’ll never have to miss your favourite TV programmes again. Craving a bit of classic comedy, your favourite soap or just fed up of feeling out of the loop of the best TV at home? BritSat will install the full package you choose for a great price. Take your pick from some of the best television in Europe as they install British, Dutch, German, Italian and French satellite TV. The team will create tailor-made installations to suit your requirements, always aiming to find the most discreet location for the dish and cables. BritSat provides excellent customer care and can also incorporate sound systems and multi-screen viewing.

Want to watch UK television? Smartsat was set up in 2002 to offer people living in Spain the choice of watching their favourite UK TV channels including the BBC, ITV, Channel 4, Five and the entire FreeSat platform. They have since gone from strength to strength and have installed systems for hundreds of satisfied customers. They’ll build a package perfect for you, whether it’s an individual satellite installation for your home, or multiple installations for offices. Based in Barcelona, the team can go to homes and businesses across Catalunya. Choose from a variety of packages including Standard, Plus (integrated hard drive) and Plus HD (High Definition). A full after-sales service is available and all of the equipment provided is guaranteed. Get in contact with Smartsat today, for all of your satellite needs.

T. 649 605 917 info@britsatlive.com www.britsatlive.com

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T. 610 092 848 tv@smartsat.tv www.smartsat.tv

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BUSINESS DIRECTORY 51 Easi-Sat - TELEVISION SERVICE Easi-Sat are specialists in satellite TV, HD and audio-visual installations and are unmatched for quality and reliability. The professional team provides satellite television from across Europe and a personal, efficient and friendly service. Contact them now for a free quote and special offers.

T. 93 845 9874 M. 649 413 832 enquiries@easisat.net www.easisat.net

Europa Digital - TELEVISION SERVICE Tired of being out the loop on the best documentaries or are you a secret soap fan? Or, maybe you’re just missing your favourite television programmes from home. There’s no need to miss out anymore—now you can see all of your favourite channels here in Barcelona! Europa Digital are licensed and fully insured to install all satellite systems, including a whole range of channels from BBC HD, Freesat, itv hd, Sky, Sky 3d, Sky Sports and many more. They can also supply all European systems and viewing cards. They were the first company to start operating in Catalunya and, as well as private installations, they have worked for hotel groups and put multi-systems in apartment blocks.The experienced and professional team give friendly advice to ensure that you receive the best package to suit your needs. They are the only company of their kind with a registered office and a 24-hour helpline. Visit their showroom before you buy or call them now for a free quotation. They are fully licensed and insured. Floridablanca 78 Metro: Sant Antoni (L2) T. 93 325 1797 M. 666 556 452 Sant Josep, 32, Sitges T.93 894 72 99 www.europadigital.tv admin@europadigital.tv

Freespeech offers the solution to expensive overseas calls. Their great prices allow you to ring internationally at the same price as to anybody in Spain. In just three easy steps you can call home for the cost of a local call. 1) Dial local number 640 199 975. 2) Call the international number (00 + country code + number). 3) Talk!


Spain Accounting Tax AND Accounting services

Brumwell Brokers

Qualified UK accountant with 25 years experience in Spain offers: · Tax services for freelance ‘autónomos’ & companies · Income tax returns for employees & non-residents · Registration of ‘autónomos’ & company incorporation (SL) · Practical advice on setting up a business in Spain · Fast, reliable email service

They not only care about your well-being, they “insure” it. With over 20 years of experience under their belts they can help you will all your insurance needs. Working with most insurance companies they guarantee you the best quote and best cover for what you need. They can even insure your bicycle!! Bromwell Brokers’ service team can also help you with tax, accounting, legal and labour laws. (Set ups, Autonomos).

Call David Cook (34) 678 702 369 Visit www.spainaccounting.com Email info@spainaccounting.com

Sánchez Molina -


Pl. Gal-la Placidia 1-3 08006 T. 90 262 7810 F. 90 262 7811

Gabinet Jurídic Tessal -



The lawyers at Sánchez Molina speak English, Spanish, Italian and French. They can help with your business licensing services, legal defence and representation, registration under any form of ownership, accounting services and work and residency permits.

Founded in 1983, Gabinet Jurídic Tessal is made up of a small team of highly-qualified professionals. They can help with all types of law including property, construction, accident, damages, family and immigration. They are also experts in business law for accounting services, taxes and social security. They can discuss your legal matters in English and French. Ask for Esther Maya.

Gran Via Carles III, 84, 5 Metro: Maria Cristina (L3) T. 93 490 9669 javiergarcia@sanchezmolina.com www.sanchezmolina.com

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Perú 40-44, Escala 2, 2ºA Metro: Glòries (L1) T. 93 486 9451 F. 93 486 9452 emaya@tessal.com www.tessal.com

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Legal Practice A&E -

Grupo Catalana Occidente -



- Foreign trade (Export/Import) - Transport Law - Commercial/Civil law: contracts, lease... - Insurance law and professional liability - Legal defence (Litigation and arbitration) - International merges - Wills - Administrative We speak English.

An expert in the insurance field, Dagmar Schittenhelm provides his services to many satisfied customers in German or English. Contact Dagmar if you’re looking for free, professional insurance advice with no obligation. Dagmar is a member of the prestigious Grupo Catalana Occidente.

Passeig de Gràcia 118, ppal, 08008 T. 93 125 8799 info-bcn@lawyer.com

T. 93 630 2190 / 93 630 1637 Afternoon T. 93 371 3868 M. 617 320 323 d.schittenhelm@terra.es

Hyperien - INSURANCE

Green Bean Coaching

Hyperien Insurance is an agency that specifically caters to European expatriates living in Spain. We are committed to providing a fast, efficient and friendly customer service and can provide for all your insurance needs including car, house, medical, pet and travel cover. We can produce a competitive quotation quickly over the telephone or via email. Contact us now to see how we compare with your current insurance provider and relax, we’ve got it covered.

Green Bean coaches entrepreneurs and business owners proven business techniques that have helped thousands of businesses boost their sales, increase profits, and hit their business goals. We will guide you to implement the strategies you need to move to the next business level. Call us for a noobligation chat to learn more. Or visit our website to receive our Free Emini Series – Your Road Map To Business Success.

T. 95 289 5216 www.hyperien.net


T. 93 268 9544 M. 693 940 701 explore@freegreenbeans.com www.freegreenbeans.com

deVere Group

FINANCIAL ADVICE The deVere Group is the world’s largest independent financial consultancy with a truly global presence. We provide expert, impartial financial advice in international savings, bonds, life insurance, pensions, as well as structured products, to expatriate clients and international investors around the globe. Our commitment is to help our clients create value and wealth by suggesting the right financial products that best suit their needs. Our advice is free and with no obligation. 56 Paseo de Gracia, planta 7 T. 93 487 5503 barcelona@devere-group.com www.devere-group.com

The Spectrum IFA Group - FINANCIAL ADVICE The Spectrum IFA Group creates and provides financial planning solutions for expatriates and foreign residents. Our experienced and qualified team in Barcelona can help you with all aspects of finance including: • Pensions/ Retirement Planning • Savings & Investments • Life Cover • Health Insurance • Currency Exchange • Mortgages • Tax Planning • Asset Management We are regulated financial planners with offices in seven European countries, dedicated to providing the best advice and solution for each individual client. Please email or call us to arrange an initial, no obligation introductory meeting. Paseo de Gràcia 63, Principal 2A T. 93 665 8596 barcelona@spectrum-ifa.com

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Visit our online

BUSINESS DIRECTORY www.barcelona-metropolitan.com

10/24/11 11:58:31 AM

Job directory To advertise in this section, call:

93 451 4486 or email: ads@barcelona-metropolitan.com

See also our online directory at www.barcelona-metropolitan.com For the latest jobs for English speakers in Barcelona, follow us on Twitter @WorkInBarcelona

SALES PROFESSIONAL Company specialising in property sales and rentals to foreign executives needs a new SALES PROFESSIONAL for their rental department. We need a sales person with negotiation and commercial experience and good communication skills. The candidate should have good knowledge of different Barcelona neighbourhoods, PC experience and is able to travel around the city by motorbike. If you want to work in a nice atmosphere, are fluent in other languages, are a dynamic and responsible person and looking for a stable job then send your CV to info@mrbdcn.com or call 669 40 70 50.

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ACS is hiring F&A Transition Project Analysts & Project Managers We are seeking Transition Project Analysts and Project Managers for very exciting roles in ACS, a Xerox Company, Barcelona. If you have a Bachelors degree in Finance or related studies with 3+ years of experience in Finance & Accountancy role, and want to work on the delivery of international projects, contact us today! Fluency in English and another European language is essential. 3-5 years experience working on large scale projects including F&A transitions, Management Consulting or BPO projects is required for the Project Management role. Junior Accountants Do you have a degree in Administration/Economics and want to develop your career in Finance & Accounting? We are seeking several Junior Accountants with a good command of English and other European languages. French/Italian/German/Dutch speakers are highly sought after! Customer Care Agents Do you have a strong grasp of European languages and want to work in an international environment? We are seeking several Customer Care Agents who will be responsible for dealing with customers around the world and investigating issues and communicating the appropriate options for resolution. Good command of English and other European languages required. French/Italian/German/Dutch speakers are highly sought after! HR Administrators Do you have experience in customer service and good communication skills as well an interest in Human Resources? At ACS, a Xerox Company, as an HR Administrator, you will work for one of our major clients’ providing advice on HR legislation regarding payroll, leave, pensions and other HR areas. A University degree in HR or related professional experience is required, fluency in English and ideally another European language. Interested candidates can apply online at www.acs-inc.com/careeropportunities.aspx or send their details via email to Recruitment.EMEA@acs-inc.com

Nordic SaleS PeoPle WaNted! Do you want to work in a positive environment with a great salary anD unlimiteD possibilities?

We are currently expanding our Scandinavian sales department and are looking for highly motivated sales people. You don’t have to be experienced in the sales field but you have to have the right attitude and a desire to become a good sales person. You have to be fluent in one of the following languages: Swedish, Norwegian, Danish or Finnish. we sell marketing to the scandinavian market and only contact companies. office hours 8:30-16:00. we offer a high fixed salary and great comission + bonuses. please send your Cv to info@jenandcompany.com or call 687 77 2912

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Computacenter is Europe’s leading independent provider of IT infrastructure services. From our prestigious Barcelona city centre offices we deliver multilingual IT support to the employees of some of


world’s most successful companies and we are looking for talented people

3rd November, 4pm – 7pm 10th November, 4pm – 7pm

to join our team. We are currently taking on exciting new projects and so are looking for European language speakers, particularly FRENCH, to join us as Level 1 Analysts, Level 2 Analysts and Team Leaders.

Come with your CV for a coffee in our city centre offices in Balmes 236, 8th floor

YOU ARE… Fluent in English and at least one other of these European languages: French, German, Dutch, Portuguese, Italian, Polish, Swedish or Danish. Enthusiastic, with an interest in IT and great customer care skills. Keen to develop your career in a company committed to your success

Metro Green Line - Fontana FCG - Gracia

To find out more, either come to our open day or send your CV to: isc.careers@computacenter.com

of Executive h as London

nprecedentrviewing for ent base by tivating and

sales or are we can asou fast track as overseas

Corporate Sports Sales Executive a marcus evans company

(Barcelona /Madrid/ Brazil)

Do you want to attend the Brazilian World Cup? With 55 global locations, THG/SMG is the world largest organizer of Executive Sports Entertainment at more than 350 major sporting events such as London 2012, Brazil WSC 2014, Champion’s league...

the op-

g career


Due to our future openings of our Latin American Offices and and unprecedented growth in both of our Barcelona and Madrid offices, we are interviewing for Bilingual Sales Executive that will be responsible for building a client base by contacting exclusively top level decisions makers, in addition to cultivating and maintaining long term relationships with them. You may already have 1-2 years experience in business-to-business sales or are looking for your first corporate role following graduation. Either way we can assure you the very best in training and development that will give you fast track promotion and unlimited earnings within the first 12 months as well as overseas posting.

You must possess:

Our commitment to you:

► A burning desire to work within sales. ► A strong determination to succeed. ► An ability to work both on your own and within a team. ► The drive to work beyond the traditional 9-5 in a challenging role. ► Fluency in English while other languages are a plus

► The opportunity to work for a fast pace, inspiring company ► Interesting career opportunities within our 55 worldwide offices ► Continual internal training and development. ► Unlimited earning opportunities (OTE 40k-80K)

Please send a covering letter and C.V in English to alexp@thguk.com and mention ref/Metro

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How to write a Spanish CV If you’re applying for a job in Barcelona, make sure you know what has to be included (and left out) on a Spanish CV. - Include an up-to-date photograph. - In Datos Personales (Personal Information) include name, date of birth, DNI/passport number and your marital status. - Your Formación (Education) can be quite simple. You should include all educational institutions you have attended and any additional diplomas or degrees. Computer skills may also be important, depending on the job, and are worthwhile including. - Idiomas (Languages) are extremely important. All languages you speak, and your levels of proficiency should be included in the CV. - Experiencia Profesional (Employment History) is evidently an important part of your CV. When listing the various companies for which you have worked, include dates, but also job title, tasks and specialisation. Any additional skills or achievements relevant to the desired position should also be mentioned at the end of your CV. - When sending a CV in Castilian, be sure to have it thoroughly proofread by a native speaker, so as to avoid any embarrassing mistakes, either in language or grammar. A Spanish CV would initially impress, but any basic errors will take away from your application.

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Shooting the messenger


hat a relief ! It’s the end of the shooting season. Not for animals, unfortunately, so not much relief for them. Or animal lovers. Or those of us who enjoy strolling peacefully though picturesque woodland scenery without getting shot at. But it’s a big relief if you enjoy strolling through urban scenery unimpeded. November marks the unofficial end of the shooting season for car ads. For the next few months, you can enjoy picturesque streets and pretty squares without finding your path blocked by runners, producers and other film-set habitués armed with radios, self-importance and strict instructions to deny access to real people. You have to feel sorry for these grungy serfs at the bottom of the cinematic hierarchy, dreaming of the days they can direct their own oeuvre as they perform demeaning tasks for their despotic and less-talented superiors. Especially when these tasks involve telling old ladies they can’t trundle their shopping trolleys back to their own front doors because the cameras are about to roll on the new Audi Arrogantia, Skoda Shiningcock or Seat Badalona 4i. It’s quite touching to see these younger minions struggle with their consciences, as the opposing impulses of being nice to old ladies or furthering their careers fight it out across their faces. Later, as they climb the slippery slope, they’ll have no such qualms. At least someone out there is buying cars.


As the credit crunch trundles on like a runaway express train, someone still has some cash to spare. Or if they’re not buying cars, someone is at least buying car ads. And most of them seem to be shot in Barcelona. Wherever you go in Europe, you can turn on the TV and catch glimpses of the square round the corner, where for several hours one day in July, a team of highly-paid media professionals toiled and swaggered to shoot enough footage for a micro-second of automotive action that will contribute to the brand image of just another shining hunk of metal. But Barcelona isn’t alone: several other Spanish cities manage to convey the composite of European desirability and charm which car manufacturers (or their advertising agencies) seem to think will make their product more attractive to potential purchasers from Oslo to Athens. Well, possibly not Athens, given current circumstances. But certainly Oslo. With pan-European ad campaigns, spot the location is now a European-wide sport, the only pleasure to be had from predictable (and borderline mendacious) ads that try to equate something as expensive and environmentally compromising as a car with the free-spirited, carefree poetry of a butterfly. If you’re not in the market for a new car, it’s difficult to see how these migraine-inducing collages will persuade you to choose one car over another. To the untutored eye, they are

pretty much indistinguishable. This is a car, they tell you. It takes you places. The only difference is which places. For family estates, there’s a lot of mountain road and countryside. For executive saloons, it’s the most (literally) shining example of modern architecture available. And if it’s a zippy city run-around, it goes running around a zippy city. Hence all the car ads shot in Barcelona. It’s the European art director’s go-to destination for pigeonfilled pedestrian plazas and unchained pavement cafés. Though ironically if you did try and zip your car through one of these squares without a film crew in tow, you would soon incur the displeasure of the traffic police. To say nothing of the pigeons. Still, we should be grateful for the business, though this won’t come as much solace to the old lady with the shopping trolley trying to reach her front door in a hurry, for whom a trickle-down effect is something entirely different. As long as wealthy car-producing countries continue to believe that atmospheric southern European backdrops help them sell more cars, they provide an unofficial bailout, or at least a redistribution of funds, albeit on a comparatively small scale. So whenever our path is impeded by a youth with a walkie-talkie and a great idea for a short film, we should just do as he says, in the knowledge that it’s for the greater good.

by Nuria Picola

--Roger de Flower


Aries It’s a good time to investigate hidden issues, take care of assets or insurance and do a detox. If seeking love, you’ll have positive results. Watch where you spend your money.

Taurus Your financial situation

Gemini Although this month is a little complicated, you are seeing things more clearly in your professional field and know what you should do. Watch your health, especially your heart.

Cancer If you’re organising a trip abroad, now isn’t a good time—it’s better to wait till after Christmas. There may be some changes at work this month, but they won’t affect your finances.

Leo This month is positive for emotional harmony; without it you can’t achieve external success. Your health is a bit delicate —rest and relax so you can achieve your goals.

Virgo Although your love life is

Libra It’s a good time to study topics that interest you, maybe some sort of training. If you’re a teacher, you’ll be successful. You may have a difficult experience with a friend—try to clarify it.

Scorpio Congratulations! You are in a time of maximum vital energy. Career opportunities keep coming, but don’t rush into anything; study how they affect your emotional harmony first.

Sagittarius Define yourself more

Capricorn Although you’re a

Aquarius You are low on energy and ailments may arise, such as a cold that keeps you in bed. Later in the month, though, everything will disappear. Take care of your partner.

Pisces Your job, although good, gets a bit complicated. Many changes are coming, which you are sensing, but later you may realise they were not what you thought. Avoid hasty decisions.

in terms of your image. Although you are proud and strong, a leader must be well-behaved. Your health is good but take care of your teeth and liver.

is complicated—you may have late payments—but this will soon be resolved. Pay attention to your health as you could have a temporary complication.

in a difficult time, improvements are coming and you’ll see which way the relationship can go. You may have some family and home costs.

realist, you crave more spiritual techniques such as meditation and subtle energies. You would do well with yoga. Watch your health.

scoop By Ben Rowdon

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Profile for Barcelona Metropolitan

Barcelona Metropolitan Issue 178  

We’ve got a mixed bag of features this month. First up, Alx Phillips delves behind the scenes of Catalan theatre to discover initiatives tak...

Barcelona Metropolitan Issue 178  

We’ve got a mixed bag of features this month. First up, Alx Phillips delves behind the scenes of Catalan theatre to discover initiatives tak...