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contents {ISSUE 240} JANUARY 2017

METROPOLITAN contributors

WHat’s ON 20 22 24 26

Music Art Misc. Pullout Calendar

DIreCtOrIes 41 43 44 49

Food & Drink Health & Beauty Business Jobs

SALLY HARGRAVE spent much of her childhood living abroad in Asia and France, where she developed a love for travelling and learning languages. This made her choice to study Spanish (and history) at the University of Durham an easy one. She is working as an editorial assistant at Metropolitan during her Erasmus year, and has loved being able to get to explore the city’s hidden gems during her time writing for the magazine.

SAM ZUCKER Originally from Boston, Massachusetts, Sam studied ecology, photography and Spanish at Hampshire College (Amherst, MA). He then went on to train as a chef at the prestigious Culinary Institute of America (Hyde Park, NY) and earn an introductory certification from the Court of Master Sommeliers in 2013. Barcelona is now his home, where he works as a culinary tour operator, photographer, social media professional and food/travel writer for several outlets. Find all of his work on his website, Zucker & Spice Travel (zuckerandspicetravel. com) and follow his expat life, travel and food adventures in Barcelona on Instagram @saz444.

reGuLars

Features

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12 rePOrt: tHe uLtIMate WOrK/LIFe BaLaNCe? Why Barcelona has become a major hub for remote workers. 18 GOING uNDerGrOuND Stories from the city’s metro system. 30 ON tHe rIse Bagels are Barcelona’s new breakfast. 33 sOHO HOuse The city’s new luxury hangout for creative souls. 34 IN retreat Five places to kickstart your year.

New in Town In the City A Place of My Own Fashion Travel Food & Drink Coaching Column Interview

Publisher The Noise Lab S.L. Managing Director Andrea Moreno Consulting Editor Esther Jones Editor Carol Moran Assistant Editor Rachel Huffman Art Director Aisling Quigley Account Executives Jalil Alui, Richard Cardwell Sales Assistants Jairo Rieder, Sarah Yaagoub Editorial Assistants Aminah Barnes, Sally Hargrave, Priyankaa Joshi, Jessica Williams Design Assistant Annabel Warley Contributors Rosie Bond, Lucas Cavazos, Eimear Corrigan, Melissa Leighty, Sam Mednick, Tara Stevens, Sam Zucker Photographers Annabel Warley Illustrator Ben Rowdon Carrer Duc 6, 08002 Barcelona. Tel. 93 451 4486 www.barcelona-metropolitan.com Editorial: editorial@barcelona-metropolitan.com Advertising: ads@barcelona-metropolitan.com General: info@barcelona-metropolitan.com. The views expressed in Barcelona Metropolitan are not necessarily those of the publisher. Reproduction, or use, of advertising or editorial content herein, without express permission, is prohibited. Depósito legal: B35159-96

Rosalind Bond Originally from Oxfordshire, UK, Rosie studied French and Spanish at the University of Manchester, which gave her the opportunity to live abroad, first in Paris and then Buenos Aires. She enjoyed the experience so much that when she finished her degree she decided to move again, this time to Barcelona. She loves exploring the city and discovering hidden places, something writing for Metropolitan helps her to do. She balances writing with teaching English and her latest hobby, swing dance.

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IN THE CITY

NEW IN TOWN SLAM DUNK

NBA CAFE. LA RAMBLA 120. Europe’s first NBA Cafe opened on the Rambla in September 2016, and has already become a haven for local basketball fans. “Barcelona has always been a focus for the NBA. There’s a huge fan base in the city and genuine admiration for the sport and the players,” explained brand manager Galdric Serra. The space offers classic American cuisine in a vibrant setting over three floors. Each dining room recreates the feel of being at a basketball game, from the court markings on the floor, to the live games and unique NBA footage on multiple big screens. Guests can admire the iconic memorabilia hanging on the walls such as signed jerseys, basketballs and players’ shoes. So, secure your seat, tuck into a tasty Double-Double and cheer on your favourite teams. barcelona.nbacafe.com

A (CO)WORK OF ART

COR23. CORTINES 23. Located in the Born’s winding backstreets, Barcelona’s latest co-working venture, COR23, has a not-so-secret surprise at its centre—a fully fledged art gallery called CAGE (an acronym for Contemporary Art Gallery Exhibition). Owner Pavel Moreno is determined to create a dynamic, inviting space where “art is valued as much more than just decoration” and people from all different backgrounds can collaborate. COR23 promotes a sense of community through various initiatives such as a volunteering scheme, where co-workers can donate an hour of their time to help their companions with any professional problems they may have. Meanwhile, CAGE supports up-and-coming artists like Colombian-born Mareo Rodriguez and encourages passers-by to peruse the art on display inside. www.cor23.com

CEVICHE MEETS SUSHI

PANKO. VILADOMAT 249. Head chef David Guevara describes Panko as “a restaurant with traditional Peruvian cuisine, influenced by Japanese aesthetics”. Guevara, originally from the north of Peru, took inspiration from his hometown to develop his signature dishes, such as the Chirashi de Cangrejo Reventado (Crab Chirashi Burst). Guevara also lived in Japan for some time, where he was impressed by the fresh flavours and creative flair, aspects that are evident in his tuna and avocado tartare, artfully accompanied by sesame oil and yucca chips. The concept behind Panko and Guevara’s imaginative menu is attracting attention, especially for the excellent value menú del día. “Most of our diners work nearby,” said Guevara. “They’re school teachers, doctors, nurses, bank clerks, etc.—and we provide a place where they can relax, with simple yet classy decor, and lots of satisfying dishes.” www.facebook.com/Restaurantepanko

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NEW SKILLS

Forget the resolutions this year and have fun learning something new instead.

How to code Will.i.am spoke the truth when he said, “Great coders are today’s rock stars”. It’s never too late (or too early) to learn. Barcelona Code School has short courses and workshops to help you solve real world problems, plus corporate training and after-school classes for kids aged nine and up. www.barcelonacodeschool.com

Take the perfect shot According to Samsung, 2.5 billion people around the world take pictures every day. Make yours stand out from the masses with the customisable Photography Masterclasses or Holistic Photography Courses led by award-winning English photographer Ben Evans. barcelonaphotographycourses.com

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MAKE THE CUT

SPORTSCUTS HAIRCUTS. ENRIC GRANADOS 99. With its plush navy chairs, flat screen TVs and extensive range of male grooming products, SportsCuts Haircuts embodies its slogan, ‘Que bueno ser hombre’ (How great it is to be a man). The owner of this barbershop in the Eixample, Javier Niño, claims it is “Spain’s first sports hairdresser”, where scissors snip and the best live sports are shown all day long. Clients are encouraged to kick back, relax and watch the game while the staff tend to their hair. SportsCuts’ most popular package, the ‘Hat-Trick’, costs €16 and includes a wash, cut and hot towel to help busy men unwind. For €3 more, customers can treat themselves to the ‘VIP’ and relax with an additional head and neck massage. SportsCuts have even received FC Barcelona’s stamp of approval, with one of their T-shirts signed by Lionel Messi hanging in pride of place on the wall. www.sportscuts.es

Get crafty Creative expression can benefit your brain and make you a happier, healthier person. From shoemaking to basic drawing and painting, Opció Diamant (www.opciodiamant.com) offers many workshops, while Carrousel Craft (www.carrouselcraft.com) has classes in book folding, lamp decorating, textile stamping and more.

Skate on Zooming blissfully alongside the beach, feeling your muscles getting stronger is what roller skating is all about. If you want to take classes, the Escola Oficial de Patinatge Inline give lessons, at six locations across the city. www.escolapatinatge.com

Cook like a pro Discover the best of Spanish and Catalan cuisine with one of Barcelona Cooking’s hands-on classes (www.barcelonacooking.net), or take a fancier approach and learn how to spin traditional fare into haute cuisine at Hofmann (www.hofmann-bcn.com/la-escuela).

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IN THE CITY

STREETLIFE CARRER DE MARGARIT Venturing past the popular pintxos scene on Carrer de Blai, deeper into the heart of Poble Sec, you’ll find this modest street with plenty of surprises.

LA BELLA NAPOLI Satisfy your craving for a genuine Neapolitan pizza, with a light, floury crust and traditional toppings, or indulge in a heaped plate of pasta, like the spicy penne arrabiata, at this classic Italian eatery. “Being Italian, I can confirm that this is really authentic Italian food,” said regular customer Beatrice, 41, from Rome. “Eating here makes me feel like I’m back home.” No matter what you order as your main, be sure to leave room for the delicious tiramisu. www.labellanapoli.es

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This inconspicuous gallery opened in 2014, and has successfully introduced something new to Barcelona’s art scene. The concept behind El Catascopio is to support up-and-coming artists by providing them with a nurturing platform to exhibit their first works. As well as hosting exhibitions, El Catascopio distributes independent publications, literature and poems as part of their OpenProject programme. www.elcatascopio.com

JAM CIRCUS Since opening its doors in February 2014, this cultural association has fostered the development of local musicians and performers by providing a place for them to take to the stage. Stop by the intimate space on a Friday or Saturday night; drinks are cheap, the atmosphere is friendly, children are welcome, and you never know what you’re going to see. Who knows, you might witness Spain’s next big superstar, live for the first time. www.facebook.com/jamcircusbcn

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METROPOLITAN PEOPLE

Photo by Sophie Stephanie

SASHA BAR

WHAT IS YOUR DREAM JOB?

ALEX, 37

JENNY, 24

My dream job is the one I already have, a chef! In life you should definitely try to do what you love as you’ll be doing it half your life.

I would like to be a millionaire entrepreneur, but for now, being a teacher is great!

BARCELONA, CHEF

Named after the owner’s mother, this restaurant and bar has an artistic flare, with walls of luscious green grass setting off the shabby-chic mosaic bar. Combining Russian influences with traditional Spanish elements, Sasha Bar serves up a variety of creative dishes, such as their truffle nachos or the roast beef burger. It’s also renowned for its extensive menu of delicious cocktails, although it’s the unusual mojitos that really stand out. “You must try the watermelon mojito,” advised customer Roger Luis, who described the Sasha as a rare gem amid Barcelona’s sea of bars. www.sashabar.es

VIENNA, TEACHER

JOEL,

21 BUCKINGHAMSHIRE, STUDENT

I want to be a travel journalist, but remain based here in Spain.

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13 SPICE CAFÉ The motto at this small, independently run café is ‘coffee, community & cake’. It’s known for altering the flavour of traditional cakes by using a variety of spices, and the succulent carrot cake is a firm favourite among customers. In addition, all of their cakes are homemade and use only locally sourced ingredients or Fairtrade products. The space itself has a vintage feel, with low hanging ceiling lights and worn, colourful tables—a charming setting to relax in and enjoy a morning brew or afternoon tea. The café also has a communal table where visitors can socialise, and it plays a pivotal role in community development by hosting workshops and language classes every week, organised by owners Isidre Macías and Lee Hendricks. “That Spice Café can bring strangers and neighbours, friends and co-workers together is what makes it so special to us,” they explained. www.spicecafe.es

ir ive

er

IONA, 21

CHICHESTER, TEACHER

I dream of becoming a wildlife broadcaster, like David Attenborough.

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IN THE CITY

A PLACE OF MY OWN

ANDREA AND SIMON HAVE PIECED TOGETHER THEIR NEW FAMILY HOME IN GRÀCIA.

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ndrea and her husband, Simon, met putting together a puzzle. “So geeky, I know,” she said, a huge smile spreading across her face. Andrea, from Colombia, and Simon, from the UK, were both on Erasmus in 2002, and during a trip to Figueres, they bought a puzzle together of the central detail of the ceiling in the Salón Noble at the Dalí Theatre and Museum. “It was obviously his excuse to spend more time with me,” Andrea joked. Over the years, more and more finished puzzles have been framed to become the major artwork in their various apartments. The only puzzle they couldn’t complete is glued in small clusters to an old door hanging on the wall of their living room. “That door has a bit of history,” explained Andrea. It was a door in the couple’s first apartment, which was going to be thrown away, so she turned it into a tabletop. Considering it stuck with them through other moves, she couldn’t bare to get rid of it this time. In their current, recently renovated apartment in Gràcia, they also have four original pieces, all from the same artist, Reinaldo Duarte— Andrea’s best friend’s father, “and basically my dad, too!” she said. Reinaldo was also a big help in planning and designing their new place. After

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purchasing the apartment, the couple decided to gut it. The yellow, Seventies wallpaper had to go, and they tore down whole sections of plaster drywall to expose the wood beams running across the ceiling and a brick wall in the living room. “I can’t believe anyone would cover up such gorgeous features,” said Andrea. It’s true that they establish the warm, welcoming feel of the space.

The design element that is Andrea’s real pride and joy is all of the carefully selected tile throughout the apartment.

All the work on the apartment was finished in three months. “It sounds so quick, especially for Barcelona standards,” Andrea said, “but we were under pressure to move out of our previous apartment. Our building was sold some time ago and the new owners made it clear that they planned to kick all of the old tenants out.” Although their situation was a bit stressful at times, everything worked out in the end.

If you have made yourself an interesting home from home and would like to appear in our Place of My Own feature, please send an email to editorial@barcelona-metropolitan.com.

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Andrea and Simon were finally able to decorate a room for their son, Sebastian (or Tian to those who know him), but the design element that is Andrea’s real pride and joy is all of the carefully selected tile throughout the apartment. “I must have looked at hundreds of tiles, patterns and colours before finding the right ones,” she explained, “because, of course, all the ones I wanted were out of our budget.” Now there are black, grey and white ‘starburst’ tiles in one of the showers, and light sky blue, tan and hazelnut multi-patterned kitchen floor tiles. The subway tile backsplash is grouted with the same aqua colour that the wall of windows, which look out onto the patio de luces, is painted. Andrea claims the window in the kitchen, and all the natural light it lets in, is what she fell for first when they came to look at the property. The soothing, light grey walls and pastel accents, like their painted, pale yellow kitchen table, complement the colour she chose to paint its frame. When asked if Simon had any say in the design of their new home, Andrea laughed. “Poor man. I tried to show him everything beforehand, but he basically just agreed with anything I suggested. So I guess the answer is no, but he trusts me.” And for good reason. The apartment looks spectacular, as beautiful as their family. The exposed brick wall and wooden ceiling beams give their apartment a cosy feeling.

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Location, location, location BARCELONA HAS BECOME A HUB FOR A NEW GENERATION OF REMOTE WORKERS, LOOKING TO BLEND WORK AND LIFESTYLE. BY ESTHER JONES

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t sounds like the kind of lifestyle most of us would kill for. Forget the nine-to-five grind, office politics and long commutes; a new generation of workers is online, travelling the world and moving on to the next destination when they're ready for a change of scenery. Digital nomads are trading the office for coffee bars and coworking spaces, fixed hours for flexibility, and colleagues for fellow nomads. The availability of cheap air travel, high-speed WiFi in faraway corners of the world and a wealth of online business possibilities make this pursuit of freedom, adventure and the ultimate work/life balance increasingly feasible. An unstable employment market in which jobs are no longer for life and freelancing is often the norm adds to the attraction of rejecting the status quo and heading for the road. As a result, hubs for ‘location-independent’ people are taking shape around the globe, from Chiang Mai in Thailand to Ho Chi Minh City in Vietnam or Bali in Indonesia. Turn up in one of these places with your suitcase and laptop and you’re guaranteed a warm welcome from the many other internationals populating the local hostels and working remotely in the coffee shops. Closer to home, Barcelona has become one of the top European nomad hubs, up there with Berlin, Prague, Lisbon and Budapest for their alluring mix of rich culture, laid back lifestyle and an infrastructure suited to those who work on the move. Theo Berghausen is the founder of Codino, a Meetup group for Barcelona’s digital nomad community. Originally from Germany, Berghausen came to Spain three years ago and, whilst doing research for his initial plan to set up a hostel here, he realised how many people in Barcelona were combining travel and work. After getting involved in the local startup scene he created Codino as a way for like-minded souls to find each other. Codino’s monthly meetups attract a wide variety of people and Berghausen estimates that just a third are hardcore digital nomads here for a couple of months before heading to the next place. “Most people do two years max of travelling then it turns into a multilocal lifestyle where there are three or four places around the world

that you feel very at home,” he explained. The truth is that, for all its apparent glamour, most people tire of the nomadic lifestyle after a couple of years. Despite the obvious perks of exotic cities, tropical beaches, year-round sunshine and freedom, it can also be isolating and lonely, particularly for people travelling alone. There is no network of family and old friends to help you through the tough moments, and no familiar places or comforting routines to rely on. For all the excitement and freedom the lifestyle offers, many people find the lack of intimacy hard to deal with. One of the remote community’s main resources is a website called Nomad List, which was started by Dutchman Pieter Levels in 2014. At the time, Levels was a 28-year-old entrepreneur, travelling the world and earning thousands each month from his online businesses. In an interview with Quartz (qz.com) in September 2016, he said, “I was standing in my apartment in Medellín, Colombia looking out the window, and I realised, ‘Like, this looks really great if I take a photo, but I don’t feel any connection’”. Levels moved back to Amsterdam in February 2016.

According to Berghausen, a Codino meetup can include ‘anyone, from a travel blogger who makes hardly any money, to business people who are earning €50,000 a month from their online ventures’. Gemma Sissons is from the UK and has been travelling with her Dutch partner for a year and a half. Sissons is a translator and is also setting up an e-commerce site. Before pitching up in Barcelona in November 2016, the couple had spent time in Argentina, Brazil and Mexico. “We’re travelling together, so that makes it much easier,” said Sissons. “We don’t get lonely as such, because we have each other, but it can get pretty intense as a couple and we miss our wider network. Part of our reason

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Carole Touati and Axel Ruis, owners of Coco Coffice

for coming to Barcelona came from wanting to be closer to home and our families.” The need to connect and be part of a community has spawned a whole industry around digital nomads and location-independent workers, designed to facilitate the lifestyle and often mixing the practical with the social. Hostels, coworkings, freelance-friendly cafes and social events designed for the international digital crowd are all hallmarks of a popular ‘hub’. Berghausen recognises travellers’ needs to get established quickly both work-wise and socially. “After all, if you’re only somewhere for a couple of months, you’ll need to make some friends quickly, particularly if you’re travelling by yourself,” he said. An interesting aspect of the lifestyle is the wide spectrum of people it attracts, thrown together in their search for freedom and adventure. According to Berghausen, a Codino meetup can include “anyone, from a travel blogger who makes hardly any money to business people who are making €50,000 a month from their online ventures”. His experience has been that because everyone is in different businesses there is no competition, leading to an open-minded community in which it is easy to form bonds and synergies. There are numerous websites and apps to help make the nomad lifestyle easier, from online forums to apps for finding freelancefriendly cafes and coworking spaces. Nomad List is one of the most popular resources for those planning where they should head to. It collects and publishes users’ ratings of different cities, and gives an estimate of how much it costs to live there for a month. A quick look at Barcelona reveals that it scores seven out of ten on the nomad rating. It gets top marks for fun, nightlife and places to work but is let down by its bad air quality and lack of air conditioning and central heating. The cost of life here as a nomad is also notably higher than life as a local; short-term rentals and frequent eating out don’t necessarily come cheap. But, to be location independent doesn’t mean you have to move on every two months either. Barcelona is home to many people who work remotely and have chosen to settle in the city for its lifestyle

and amenities. Twenty-six-year-old Arturo Mendez is from Mexico and has lived here for five years. Mendez works in app store optimisation and, although every few months he travels somewhere for two months, Barcelona is his base and the place he calls home. He said that he chose Barcelona “because it is a mix of what I look for in a city. It’s a blend of culture, gastronomy, international people, good cost of living, young communities and social activities”. For Mendez, the main attraction of this lifestyle is the freedom it offers. “You have all the freedom you can think of. You decide when and where to work, and who to work with. You can work in pyjamas or drinking a beer in a chiringuito next to the beach while you answer your emails,” he said. Although living mostly in one place takes away the issue of isolation, an office-free life still has its challenges. Mendez described the downside of home working: “Working from home can become tedious very fast. Working from the same place you live in is difficult and having no coworkers to talk with gives you a feeling of solitude. Also, the lack of certainty that you will have work next month is something that stops most people from working from home, and is surely one of the most negative aspects.” Michael Romano moved to Barcelona from California in 2013, with his wife and two children, then aged seven and 11. Romano is a partner in a software company that is based mostly in Europe. For him, the move to Barcelona was spurred on by the need to be in the same time zone as his Europe-based partners. Like Mendez, Barcelona was the main choice for lifestyle reasons. “Creative and visual arts are very strong here. It is a fantastic place for designers, artists and architects, and the influx of foreigners has expanded the diversity of ideas. Many people from other places want to live here. The trick is for them to find good jobs and integrate,” he said. For Romano and his family, the experience of starting a new life abroad has been positive and enriching. He described moving here as a family as “the best part of the whole experience. Barcelona is a great place to grow up. The combination of living in the centre of a great city with all the culture and infrastructure, but without the danger and crime, is an important quality of life issue”.

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Michael Romano in his home office (and above) in Gràcia

TOP NOMAD RESOURCES Ready to give up the day job? Take a look at these sites for some pointers. www.meetup.com/codino This group for digital nomads in Barcelona offers monthly gettogethers and activities. www.nomadlist.com This site has a wealth of user-generated information about cities around the world. remoters.net Jobs, events and reviews of tools to organise your new life. www.legalnomads.com Lawyer-turned-nomad Jodi Ettenberg offers advice gleaned from eight years of travelling on her award-winning blog.

Romano sees the challenges of working remotely in Barcelona as the same as anywhere else, namely keeping focused and productive. As his clients are mostly based in the US, he has the additional complication of working with different time zones, which can be disrutping to family life. Berghausen also sees focusing on work as a major issue. Whether you are uprooting every couple of months or working the hours you want from home, the reality is that it can be hard to be productive. And, unless you have hit the ‘passive income’ jackpot, it’s likely that being productive is central to maintaining your lifestyle. “Creating a routine and life/work balance is important.” The coworking spaces that have mushroomed in the city in the last five years offer a way to establish a routine and to escape from the sitting room table, just as they also create a sense of camaraderie and the possibility of making new connections. These spaces range from small, cosy centres to multi-storey buildings with restaurants and conference rooms. Most operate with a monthly membership that costs from €80 to €250 depending on your schedule, facilities and whether you have a fixed desk. Carole Touati and Axel Ruis opened Coco Coffice in Barcelona two months ago. They arrived as freelancers in Barcelona 16 years ago, and decided to settle here after falling in love with the city. The coffice (a coworking space that offers a more cafe-style vibe) trend took off in France two years ago. Touati and Ruis wanted to offer something to those people who have very temporary needs—most of their clients come for a day or a week. You can even pay by the hour. The first hour costs €4 and includes snacks, use of the kitchen, WiFi and a desk. The coffice is ideal for people who love to work in cafes but worry about overstaying their welcome (or blowing their daily budget on coffee and cake). Touati recognises that the social and productive aspects of life as a location-independent worker are both important, and Coco Coffice organise meetups and encourage people to get to know each other. “You have to make an effort to meet new people and be willing to network when you’re a digital nomad,” said Touati. Touati and Berghausen also cite the rising cost of accommodation in Barcelona as one of the main challenges of working here remotely. Cost of living is a key part of being location-independent—part of the attraction of Chiang Mai in Thailand is no doubt that you can enjoy the good life for under $800 a month. Over the last year, rental prices in Barcelona have soared by 18 percent according to property evaluators Tinsa.

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Join our

Open House

Saturday, February 11th at 10:30 • Leading International Baccalaureate program in Barcelona since 2009 • International population representing 50 different nationalities • Open air campus with new and renovated facilities • Educating students since 1962 The Open House includes short presentations by the Director and Principals followed by guided tours of the school, student testimonials, and lots of opportunity to ask questions! RS VP at www.asba rce l o na . co m Jaume Balmes 7, Esplugues de Llobregat, 08950, Barcelona Tel. 93 371 4016 Ext.155

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THE WORLD’S TOP TEN NOMAD HUBS Data source: Nomad List

1. Chiang Mai, Thailand. Monthly cost of living: $777 2. Miami, Florida, US. Monthly cost of living: $4,325 3. Taipei, Taiwan. Monthly cost of living: $1,639 4. Ubud, Bali, Indonesia. Monthly cost of living: $1,286 5. Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam. Monthly cost of living: $1,028 6. Canggu, Bali, Indonesia. Monthly cost of living: $1,756 7. Austin, Texas, US. Monthly cost of living: $3,309 8. Bangkok, Thailand. Monthly cost of living: $1,153 9. Las Palmas, Gran Canaria, Spain. Monthly cost of living: $1,859 10. Phuket, Thailand. Monthly cost of living: $1,710

This will certainly have an effect on those on a lower budget looking to stay here for just a few months, though it may not deter the higher earning nomads. Touati is concerned that this will make the city less attractive. “Barcelona is getting more and more expensive which makes the future for coworking in the city uncertain. It’s possible that people may not want to come here because it won’t be so financially advantageous, with higher housing prices and the increased cost of living,” she said.

Along with Berlin, Barcelona is now one of Europe’s main hubs for startups looking to get a foothold before making the move to Silicon Valley. At the same time, the rising prices in Barcelona may also convince people already living here that working online for more buoyant economies makes good financial sense. A third of the attendees at Codino events are internationals living in Barcelona, working in normal jobs and looking for a lifestyle change. One of the ongoing issues that locals and foreigners face in Barcelona is the lack of well-paid work. According to the Agencia Tributaria, the average annual salary in Barcelona in 2014 was €21,775, almost a third of London’s average, which stood at 48,023 pounds (€57,339). And, although falling rapidly, the unemployment rate is still high in Catalunya, and currently stands at approximately 15 percent in Barcelona. For Romano, who is working in a small but expanding business, one of the advantages of coming to Barcelona was the possibility of finding qualified people at affordable prices. “Our growing but bootstrapped company needed more specialised talent, but we were a small fish in a big pond in the Bay Area, which is very expensive and very competitive. Barcelona is an international city with lots of talented people, and the

sluggish economy meant that we could do more with less investment,” he said. High unemployment has no doubt contributed to Barcelona’s current entrepreneurial renaissance. Along with Berlin, it is now one of Europe’s main hubs for startups looking to get a foothold before making the move to Silicon Valley. This shows no signs of abating, with huge public and private investments currently being made in technology and startup incubators. And, while ‘proper’ jobs are thin on the ground, more of Barcelona’s residents will see that there is little to lose by going it alone. So, what does the future hold for Barcelona as a hub for digital workers? For those looking to use the city as a long-term base, Romano feels that a lot of it comes down to how easy the authorities make it for people to move here. He found the process of getting a visa costly and time consuming. “It was very confusing and involved lawyers and flights back and forth. The massive bureacracy in Madrid was a mysterious black hole.” For Berghausen, who works more with short-term residents, the answer is in continuing to innovate to create affordable and stimulating work/life environments. He sees more smaller hubs eventually being created in towns outside the city, where prices are lower and there are less distractions. For those of us who live and work in Barcelona, the city’s new identity as a digital hub brings much to enjoy in terms of energy and vitality. It is also attracting new talent, evident in the number of seminars and talks taking place each week in coworking spaces and startup incubators about all things digital and startup related. Time will tell how this buzz will affect the local economy and whether the concentration of knowledge and ambition will eventually translate into more opportunities locally. If you’re tempted to leave your day job in search of a life of freedom, but worried about the city’s rising rental and house prices, take your time, get to know the local digital community and use the available opportunities to learn from them before you make the leap. And if things don’t work out quite as planned, take heart, there’s always Chiang Mai.

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GOING UNDERGROUND HOW THE FIRST TRACKS TOWARDS BARCELONA’S MODERNITY WERE LAID BY ROSALIND BOND The metro. For some a humdrum mode of travelling from A to B, for others a labyrinthine underground world full of history and buried secrets. How much do you know about Spain’s second oldest underground railway? BARCELONA AT THE TURN OF THE 20TH CENTURY The beginning of the 20th century was a period of immense change for Barcelona. The industrial revolution had caused rapid population growth in Spain’s cities, leading to massive overcrowding in Barcelona, a city still confined within its medieval walls. The years 1854-56 saw a brief period of progressive government during which time the demolition of the city’s walls was finally authorised and Barcelona was able to breathe once more. The expansion of the city, with the creation of the Eixample under the Plan Cerdà, got underway in 1860 and, by the beginning of the 20th century, the newly enlarged city, which had also incorporated villages such as Gràcia and Sants, had a population of over 500,000. However, if Barcelona was going to join the major European capitals as a truly world-class city, it needed the infrastructure to match. The construction of the metro was a defining factor in Barcelona’s break into modernity. CONSTRUCTION OF THE METRO The Barcelona metro began as two separate, privately-owned projects. The first to open belonged to the company Gran Metropolitano de Barcelona, which, on December 30th, 1924, inaugurated the first line of the Gran Metro. It ran between Lesseps and Plaça Catalunya and is part of the current Line 3. The second line was run by the company Ferrocarril Metropolitano de Barcelona and was known as El Transversal. El Transversal was initially intended to be a connecting line between railway stations in the north and the south of the city.

Barcelona’s first metro line was inaugurated in 1924

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This scheme was never put into action, although to this day the tracks are able to connect with those of Adif (the national rail administrator). When El Transversal first opened on June 10th, 1926, it went from Bordeta—a now-disused station near the station Santa Eulàlia—to Plaça Catalunya, corresponding with the modern-day Line 1. And, in 1959, the same company opened a second line, which went from La Sagrera to Vilapicina.

If Barcelona was going to join the major European capitals as a truly world-class city, it needed the infrastructure to match. The construction of the metro was a defining factor in Barcelona’s break into modernity.

5 FACTS ABOUT THE METRO 1. Urquinaona is the only station in the network that still has one of its original entrances, on Carrer del Bruc. 2. The tunnel arch in Fontana still has the original tiles placed there in 1925—they bear the logo and corporate colours of the company Gran Metropolitano de Barcelona. 3. This logo can also be found on the iron railings at the entrances to the Liceu station. 4. The extension of the network towards the sea was difficult due to Barcelona’s aquatic subsoil. This is overcome by pumps channeling groundwater into sewage tanks, which can be heard working if you listen carefully in the Arc de Triomf station. If these pumps stopped working, the tracks would be flooded up to the level of the platform within 10 hours. 5. The deepest station is El Coll/La Teixonera, which has a depth of 74 metres.

PHANTOM STATIONS In 1926, the Gran Metro split at Passeig de Gràcia, creating a Y-shaped line with branches down both La Rambla and Via Laietana. The tunnels of the Laietana branch are the oldest in the network because they were preemptively constructed with the view to a future metro system during the construction of the thoroughfare in 1908. Between 1936 and 1949, breaks were put on the construction of the metro due to the Spanish Civil War and the Second World War, although the metro was used as an air raid shelter during the Civil War. In 1961, Ferrocarril Metropolitano de Barcelona absorbed the Gran Metro company, creating just one network, and the lines were renamed with Roman numerals. El Transversal became Line I and Gran Metro became Lines II and III. The Fifties, Sixties and Seventies saw huge growth of the metro network as new lines were inaugurated and existing ones extended. In 1973, the branch of Line III that went down Via Laietana was used to create the new line IV, which travelled up towards Joanich (Joanic). In 1982, the line names were changed to Arabic and, with the arrival of democracy, the stations could finally be given their Catalan names. Atarazanas, for example, became Drassanes, which means ‘shipyard’. Today, Barcelona’s metro is the second biggest in Spain and has 12 lines, 180 stations and covers 146 kilometres. As it did in the newly extended Barcelona of the 1920s, the metro is constantly reaching further to cater to the needs of its 465 million yearly passengers.

Phantom stations are stations that were once in use but are now closed, or that were built but never inaugurated. One such station is Correos, in use between 1934 and 1972. Passengers who press their faces against the train window on Line 4 between Jaume I and Barceloneta will be able to make out the shadow-clad abandoned station, left exactly as it was on the day it was closed up forever. On the walls are advertisements as well as election posters for Eduardo Tarragona, part of a municipal election campaign held in 1972, a simulation of democracy in the last years of the dictatorship. Phantom stations that were built but never inaugurated include Banc, also on Via Laietana, between Jaume I and Urquinaona. There’s not much to see this time, just some sinister looking stairs that lead to a dead end. The story goes that the station was intended to have access to the Banco de España located above it, so money could be secretly transported and deposited via the metro station. The station was built at the same time as the tunnels on Via Laietana and was constructed to the wrong dimensions, so it had to be destroyed. Another station that was built but never opened is Gaudí, situated on Line 5 between Sagrada Família and Sant Pau/Dos de Maig. Spooky stories tell of humanoid figures lurking in the gloom of this station, their blank faces staring ahead as they wait for a train that will never come.

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WHAT’S ON

MUSIC CONCERT LISTINGS 2nd. Dire Straits Tribute Palau de la Música. Palau de la Música 4-6. 4th. David Hillyard & Rocksteady Seven + New York Ska Jazz Ensemble Sala Apolo. Nou de la Rambla 113. 7th. Alabama Gospel Choir Palau de la Música. Palau de la Música 4-6. 10th. The Stars Look Very Different Today (David Bowie Tribute) Razzmatazz. Pamplona 88. 10th. King Creosote Sidecar. Plaça Reial 7. 13th. Black Stone Cherry Razzmatazz. Pamplona 88. 13th. Barlett Sidecar. Plaça Reial 7. 14th. Curtis Sala Apolo. Nou de la Rambla 113. 14th. Metallica Tribute Palau de la Música. Palau de la Música 4-6.

DOUBLE TROUBLE

NEW YORK SKA-JAZZ ENSEMBLE. SALA APOLO. NOU DE LA RAMBLA 113. JANUARY 4TH. Dubbed ‘a horn happy bunch of rhythm maniacs’ by the New York Times, the energetic New York SkaJazz Ensemble brings its musical mayhem to Apolo this January to help you skank the frostbite off your feet. Starting out as a megamix of three of ska’s most seminal groups—The Toasters, The Skatalites and The Scofflaws—New York Ska-Jazz Ensemble have created a revolutionary sound like no other. Founders Freddie Reiter and Rick Faulkner had a vision to record classic jazz standards with a Jamaican twist, where jazz, reggae, dancehall and rocksteady all blend together to create music that makes you move. Their covers of great jazz composers and musicians will give you a new perspective on old classics. For example, Nina Simone’s ‘My Baby Just Cares for Me’ is reinvented with ska beats, while Harold Melvin & the Blue Notes’s ‘Pretty Flower’ is infused with Jamaican vibes, transforming it into an almost unrecognisable ska anthem. Supporting David Hillyard & the Rocksteady Seven, this two tone extravaganza will leave you with trumpets ringing in your ears and ska thumping in your heart well into the new year. www.sala-apolo.com

16th. Bertín Osborne Gran Teatre del Liceu. La Rambla 51-59. 17th. Sum 41 Razzmatazz. Pamplona 88. 18th. Horàcio Ferreira Palau de la Música. Palau de la Música 4-6. 20th. Lorien FNAC El Triangle. Plaça Catalunya 4. 21st. The Rubinoos + Suzy & Los Quatro Sala Apolo. Nou de la Rambla 113. 25th. Biffy Clyro Sant Jordi Club. Passeig Olímpic 5-7. 25th. Thomas Dunford Palau de la Música. Palau de la Música 4-6. 27th. Leroy Sanchez Sala Bikini. Diagonal 547. 28th. Esteban Faro & Chameleons Sala Apolo. Nou de la Rambla 113. 28th. InMune Sala Bikini. Diagonal 547. 30th. Four Years Strong Razzmatazz. Pamplona 88.

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A BLAST FROM THE PAST

SUM 41. RAZZMATAZZ. PAMPLONA 88. JANUARY 17TH. As grunge fans mourned the death of Kurt Cobain, and Brit-pop began taking over the British Isles, a musical whirlwind was taking place on the other side of the Atlantic, creating an army of Vans-wearing, blue-haired, stripey-socked punks. With a little less aggression than their forefathers, the noughties would see this genre reach its peak with bands like Blink 182 and Jimmy Eat World becoming internationally renowned. Although many have hung up their drumsticks, Sum 41 still haven’t shaken off their excess energy. They are currently touring in support of their latest album, 13 Voices (2016). Having recently experienced a breakdown due to alcohol addiction, lead singer Deryck Whibley managed to come out the other side through a combination of medical help and music. 13 Voices is a long way from Sum 41’s first album, All Killer, No Filler (2001), however it shows the band’s ability to adapt and develop as musicians. For any diehard fans heading to the Razzmatazz gig, they’re sure to throw in some old classics to get you moshing. www.salarazzmatazz.com

FOR MORE MUSIC EVENTS VISIT WWW.BARCELONA-METROPOLITAN.COM

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MUSICAL MEDICINE

BIFFY CLYRO. SANT JORDI CLUB. PASSEIG OLÍMPIC 5-7. JANUARY 25TH. Evolution and rediscovery are the main themes of the latest album by Biffy Clyro, Ellipsis (2016). Much of the material was born out of a recent period of depression experienced by frontman Neil Simon. In songs such as ‘Medicine’, a simple, clean acoustic ballad, Simon expresses his feelings during this dark period. Speaking openly about his mental health issues in an interview with NME, Simon said, “It felt like when things couldn’t get any worse, they just kept getting worse”. Although a result of Simon’s attempt to tackle some serious personal issues, the music produced on Ellipsis still meets the powerful, arena-filling standard expected of Biffy Clyro. Last year saw the Scottish trio play both Reading and Leeds, ensuring they will be well warmed up for their show at Barcelona’s Sant Jordi Club. www.santjordiclub.cat

CAPITAL CROONER

BERTÍN OSBORNE. GRAN TEATRE DEL LICEU. LA RAMBLA 51-59. JANUARY 16TH. Despite the axing of his show, Mi casa es la tuya by Telecinco, Bertín Osborne has been keeping himself in the press with his numerous projects—both charitable and musical. Recently appearing in a number of newspapers for his work with Una Medicina para Venezuela, a charity established in 2013, with the aim of collecting medicine and supplies for Venezuelans, Osborne will be dedicating his upcoming concerts to the cause, while also encouraging concertgoers to donate what they can. Musically, Osborne has also been busy. Not long after recording Crooners (2015), a tribute to some of swing’s finest male voices including Frank Sinatra and Dean Martin, he gave a shout-out to the ladies with his release of Va Por Ella (2016). This latest compilation sees the Spanish national treasure cover classics such as ‘She’, ‘Michelle’ and ‘Layla’ in his signature style. www.liceubarcelona.cat

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WHAT’S ON

ART OPENINGS FUNDACIÓ JOAN MIRÓ Momu y No es This virtual reality installation by the artistic duo invites viewers to question the rules and roles imposed on us by society, offering a subversive narrative by utilising the open-source technology platform Arduino. Opens January 20th. Parc de Montjuïc. LAST CHANCE CAIXAFORUM Tierra de sueños Spanish photographer Cristina García Rodero strives to give a voice to the women of the villages of Anantapur, India with a series of vibrant photographs. Until January 8th. Av. Francesc Ferrer i Guàrdia 6-8. ARTS SANTA MONICA Technologies of violence This collection explores the critical relationship between digital technologies and the contemporary production of violence. Until January 8th. La Rambla 7.

THE CREATIVE GENIUS OF A COPYCAT

ROMANESQUE PICASSO. MNAC. PALAU NACIONAL, PARC DE MONTJUÏC. UNTIL FEBRUARY 26TH. This exhibition delves into Picasso’s relationship with Romanesque art, a style in which he showed a great deal of interest throughout his career. It examines the period between 1906, when the Spanish artist settled in the town of Gósol in the Catalan Pyrenees, and 1934, when he first saw the Romanesque collection at the Museu Nacional d’Art de Catalunya. Organised in collaboration with the Musée Picasso-Paris, the exhibition will feature over 40 works focusing on three main areas. The first is the medieval sculpture ‘Virgin from Gósol’, which Picasso saw during his stay in the village. The second topic explores the Crucifixion, a popular theme in Romanesque art that Picasso focused on between 1930 and 1937, and the third, the skull, also a prevalent Romanesque symbol. The overall aim of the exhibition is to emphasis the dialogue between Picasso and the Romanesque works rather than to identify a mechanical relationship between them. Indeed, one of Picasso’s most remarkable skills was his ability to transform elements from any style into something wholly his own. www.museunacional.cat

FUNDACIÓ JOAN MIRÓ Endgame: Duchamp, chess and the avantgarde This show explores the fascinating relationship between the game of chess and art in 20th-century avant-garde movements, from Surrealism to conceptual art. Until January 12th. Parc de Montjuïc. MNAC Lluïsa Vidal. Modernist Painter Featuring a variety of portraits and illustrations by Catalan Modernista artist Lluïsa Vidal, this exhibition celebrates her ability to capture the emotional state of her subjects. Until January 15th. Palau Nacional, Parc de Montjuïc. FUNDACIÓ ANTONI TÀPIES 1989. After the Conversations of Algiers. Delirium and Truce. This exhibition studies the effects of violence on the Basque Country and the attempts made to achieve peace following the Conversations of Algiers, until 2011, when ETA announced a “definitive cessation of its armed activity”. Until January 15th. Aragó 255. GALERÍA SENDA El Bosc Blanc por Jaume Plensa Barcelona-born artist Jaume Plensa returns to his home city after seven years to present his new collection of bronze figures, painted white, with their eyes closed to represent the inner voice that lies within. Until January 21st. Trafalgar 32.

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GIRL POWER

HERSELVES. BLUEPROJECT FOUNDATION. PRINCESA 57. UNTIL FEBRUARY 26TH. A collective project comes to the Blueproject Foundation, which investigates the role of women in contemporary society, showcasing works by a diverse range of female artists through different forms of media including photography, drawings and paintings. The title of the exhibition is a reference to a 1975 interview by renowned Bulgarian-French philosopher Julia Kristeva titled ‘Unes Femmes’, in which she states that “the fact that we can generalise the female condition should only encourage each woman to express her own individuality”. ‘Herselves’ is an attempt to negotiate the female position of voicelessness and marginalisation, and deconstruct reductive stereotypes. Drawing on their own personal experiences, the artists come together to question the existing patriarchal structure in our society and redefine the position of women in terms of identity, intimacy and desire. It provides a platform to discuss female issues, allowing women to reclaim their absent voice, deliver their own message and assert their personal aspirations. www.blueprojectfoundation.org

FOR MORE ART EVENTS VISIT WWW.BARCELONA-METROPOLITAN.COM

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©photograph: J. Ollé ©photograph: Miquel Coll

PALATE TO PALETTE

©photograph: D. Domken

MIRALDA MADEINUSA. MACBA. PLAÇA DELS ÀNGELS. UNTIL APRIL 9TH. The MACBA pays tribute to Catalan artist Antoni Miralda, renowned for his quirky large-scale sculptures and innovative installations, in this exhibition that showcases his most significant US projects from the mid-Seventies to the late Nineties. With a career spanning five decades, Miralda has been declared by some as one of Spain’s most radical and multifaceted artists. After moving to New York in 1971, Miralda became best known for his food-themed, interactive installations that relied on public participation. During the mid-Eighties, he put together an experimental art project, El Internacional Tapas Bar & Restaurant, in collaboration with restaurateur Montse Guillén, and founded Food Cultura, a museum exploring the history of food and its social, economic and cultural implications. Miralda inserts art into everyday life by blurring the boundaries between food and art. This exhibition, in particular, will reconstruct 15 of his most celebrated projects, including Breadline (1977), a thought-provoking row of colourful loaves and slices of bread originally placed outside the Contemporary Arts Museum in Houston, and Wheat & Steak (1981), a parade-performance that took place in Kansas City. www.macba.cat

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WHAT’S ON

MISC.

UNSTOPPABLE FORCE

EDDIE IZZARD. CAFE LLANTIOL. JANUARY 10TH-22ND (EXCEPT 12TH & 19TH). If you missed Eddie Izzard’s sellout Barcelona shows in November, you’re in luck; the British comedian and international phenomenon is back in town for 10 more nights on his Force Majeur tour. Never one to shun a challenge, and having already mastered his act in French and German, Izzard is learning Spanish as he tours, slowly transitioning his show from English to Spanish. Now back in Barcelona after delighting Madrid audiences with his quick mind and language-learning prowess (the Madrid show reached 50/50 English/ Spanish), expect some impressive linguistic advances. Known for fast-paced shows that combine surreal wit, sharp observations and extraordinary comic genius, his November dates received rave reviews from his audience. Is he funnier in English or Spanish? You can be the judge of that. www.barcelonacomedyfestival.com

A COMEDY OF ERRORS

NIAMH MARRON. THE SHAMROCK BAR. JANUARY 13TH. The Guiriness comedy night promises to have you in stitches upon its return to Barcelona this January. This month will feature the feisty Niamh Marron, a multi-award-winning comedian who has performed across Europe and supported big names like PJ Gallagher and David McSavage. In 2013, Marron successfully auditioned for Britain’s Got Talent and, in 2015, she performed at the Edinburgh Fringe Festival as well as appearing on TV3’s The Stand Ups. Marron describes herself as having “a face like an angel and a mouth like a sewer”, and plans to stay true to this mould. Audiences wouldn’t expect anything less from this inappropriate, yet hilarious comedian who tells it like it is. guirinesscomedy.com

SATURDAY NIGHT FEVER

SWEET TYRANNY. MERCAT DE LES FLORS. JANUARY 27TH-FEBRUARY 5TH. Take a few tips from John Travolta and Patrick Swayze as you revisit Seventies and Eighties musical films with Pere Faura’s latest theatrical venture at Mercat de Les Flors. Concentrating on the area between disco and dance studio, Faura’s production aims to draw an analogy between dance as a form of evasion and ecstasy, and dance as a job and profession. Sweet Tyranny, part of a trilogy of shows, exposes some of its harsh realities, including relationships between dancers and choreographers, and the brutal nature of show business. Faura has incorporated true stories related to famous dancers and actors like Travolta, to reflect on the truth behind theatre and dance, the collision of partying and work, and the struggle between individual freedom and collective obligations. mercatflors.cat/es/ espectacle/sweet-precarity-2/

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RUNWAY READY

080 BARCELONA FASHION. TEATRE NACIONAL DE CATALUNYA. JANUARY 30TH-FEBRUARY 3RD. Barcelona’s very own fashion week returns this month, bringing with it 40 different fashion parades and some much anticipated spring style. For five days Barcelona will be the centre of the fashion world as models line up, poised to showcase designers’ latest collections. 080 Barcelona Fashion prides itself on being an event for everyone and, once again, availability is key to this year’s ethos. There is even a TV channel for those at home to watch as the spectacle unfolds. Miguel Rodriguez, director of the 19th edition of 080 Barcelona Fashion, explains how the interaction between the consumer and brand name fashion designers has changed: “New technology, social media and networking mean that people expect immediacy when it comes to fashion”. Designers need to make their pieces available at the 080 Fashion Market throughout the week so visitors can snap up an item of clothing or accessory straight after seeing it on the runway. 080 Barcelona Fashion is open to everyone, so if you want to be on trend for 2017, make sure to bag some front row seats. www.080barcelonafashion.cat

FOR MORE EVENTS VISIT WWW.BARCELONA-METROPOLITAN.COM

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OPERA-TUNITY

CONCURS TENOR VIÑAS. GRAN TEATRE DEL LICEU. JANUARY 22ND. Founded over 50 years ago, in 1963, the Concurs Tenor Viñas searches for the best new operatic voice each year. This international competition commemorates the worldrenowned Catalan tenor Francesc Viñas, who is perhaps best known for his performances in the operas of Richard Wagner. The final stage of the competition takes place against the majestic backdrop of the Gran Teatre del Liceu, the very same stage where Viñas made his operatic debut in 1888. Fans of opera music can buy tickets to witness the crowning of this year’s winner, who will join the ranks of previous winners and opera legends like Antonio Gandia and Violeta Urmana. www.liceubarcelona.cat

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RESPONSIBLE CONSUMPTION FAIR This fair aims to promote sustainability, with 44 stalls featuring everything from food and clothing, to information on responsible tourism. Pl. Catalunya. Until Jan 4th.

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GRAN GALA FLAMENCO Award-winning flamenco artist Juan Gómez ‘Chicuelo’ performs in this music-meets-dance spectacle. 7pm. Teatre Poliorama. Rambla dels Estudis 115.

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ARTE & VENTA This exhibition brings everything from photography and design books, to illustrations under one

KIDS ARCHAEOLOGY WORKSHOP Children are able to step into the shoes of an archeologist at this hands-on workshop. 10am. Centre Cultural del Born. Pl. Comercial 12.

THE STARS LOOK VERY DIFFERENT TODAY Razzmatazz pays tribute to the late, great David Bowie, raising money for AFANOC. 7.30pm.

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FLEADONIA This secondhand market turns Raval into a bargain hunter’s haven. 11am. Filmoteca de Catalunya. Pl. Salvador Seguí.

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WHAT'S ON JANUARY 2017

DAVID HILLYARD & THE ROCKSTEADY SEVEN The American jazz band celebrate their 20-year anniversary by performing hits from their first ever album, Playtime (2000). Sala Apolo. Nou de la Rambla 113.

TIERRA DE SUEÑOS Cristina García Rodero’s colourful photographs aim to give voice to women living in Anantapur, India. CaixaForum. Av. Francesc Ferrer i Guàrdia 6-8. Until Jan 8th.

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LLUÏSA VIDAL MNAC exhibits a series of the Catalan Modernist painter Lluïsa Vidal’s most engaging portraits.

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LAS CINCO Razzmatazz promises a night full of surprises to welcome the giftladen Three Kings. Razzmatazz. Almogàvers 122.

THREE KINGS’ PARADE Celebrate the arrival of the three wise men on the eve of the Día de los Reyes Magos with a festive parade of decorated floats. 4.30pm. TBC.

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15 HANDEL & FRIENDS Prepare to be transported through time, from Vivaldi’s Venice to the lanes of Leipzig at this classical concert. 11.30am.

14 ILLENIUM The American DJ will get crowds dancing with hits like ‘Falling In’, in his first European gig since his incredible US tour. 4pm. Shôko. NIAMH MARRON The multi award-winning comedian performs her hilariously inappropriate stand-up show for one night only. 8.30pm. The Shamrock.

GRAND NEW YEAR’S CONCERT The Strauss Festival Orchestra and Ballet Ensemble join forces in this stunning performance. Palau de la Música. Palau de la Música 4-6. Various dates.

JONC CHARITY CONCERT The National Youth Orchestra of Catalunya performs classical pieces to raise money for Projecte Home Catalunya. 12pm. L’Auditori. Lepant 150. DREADLOCKS ARENA Eleven artists represented by the music label Capra Records will perform dub and ‘riddim’ tunes. 11pm. Sala Upload. Av Francesc Ferrer i Guardia 13.

8 GÖTTERDÄMMERUNG First premiered in 1876, Wagner’s epic masterpiece shows at the Liceu on various dates. 5pm. Gran Teatre del Liceu. La Rambla 51-59.

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WWW.BARCELONA-METROPOLITAN.COM

FOR MORE INFORMATION VISIT OUR WEBSITE


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LA TRAVIATA Giuseppe Verdi’s most famous opera tells the tragic story of courtesan Violetta. 8pm. Palau de la Música. Palau de la Música 4-6.

BLUES JAM SESSION Round off January with a night of soulful blues led by internationally renowned Hernan ‘El Chino’ Senra. 10.30pm. Harlem Jazz Club. Comtessa de Sobradiel 8.

080 BARCELONA FASHION 080 Barcelona returns, showcasing Catalan and international styles for five fashion-filled days. Teatre Nacional de Catalunya. Pl. de les Arts 1. Until Feb 3rd.

FOUR YEAR STRONG To mark ten years since they released their album Rise or Die Trying (2007), the American band perform hits old and new. 8pm. Razzmatazz. Pamplona 88.

SUM 41 The Canadian rock band are set to storm the stage at Razzmatazz with smash hits like ‘In Too Deep’. 9pm. Razzmatazz. Pamplona 88.

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NIÑA PASTORI The Latin Grammy award-winning singer performs songs from her latest album, Ámame como soy (2015). 9pm. Teatre Victòria. Av. Paral·lel 67-69.

MINUS 16 IT Dansa demonstrate their unique choreography as they perform their latest show. 11am. Gran Teatre del Liceu. La Rambla 51-59.

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BIFFY CLYRO The chart-topping Scottish rock band are in Barcelona for one night only, performing songs from their critically acclaimed album Ellipsis (2016). 9.30pm. Sant Jordi Club. Psg. Olímpic 5-7.

TRISTÁN E ISOLDA Legendary soprano Eva-Maria Westbroek stars as the Irish princess Isolda in the third act from Wagner’s opera. 9pm. L’Auditori. Lepant 150.

INMUNE The alternative rock band will perform their latest album, Universal (2016), for the first time in Barcelona. 8pm. Sala Bikini. Av. Diagonal 547.

SALÓN DEL CINE Y LAS SERIES This year’s Salón del Cine features a Star Wars exhibition, an interactive Game of Thrones experience and much more. Salón del Cine. Barcelona 2. Until 29th.

SWEET TYRANNY A modern take on the choreography of the Seventies and Eighties, Pere Faura directs a show that would do John Travolta proud. 8pm. Mercat de les Flors. Lleida 59.

LEONIDAS KAVAKOS & ENRICO PACE Two award-winning artists join forces to perform Beethoven’s sonatas. 8.30pm. Palau de la Música. Palau de la Música 4-6.

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BRICK BY BRICK This exhibition explores the aesthetics of ceramics used in architecture. Museu del Disseny. Pl. de les Glòries Catalanes 3738. Until Jan 29th.

THE RUBINOOS The power-pop group are still going strong 45 years after they first formed. 5.30pm. Sala Apolo. Nou de la Rambla 113.

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CIRC RALUY LEGACY The circus is in town! Marvel at tightrope walkers, acrobats and clowns as Circ Raluy perform. Moll de la Fusta. Pg. de Colom. Until Feb 19th.

MIRALDA MADEINUSA Look back on the Catalan artist’s most significant works from the USA in this exhibition. MACBA. Pl. dels Àngels. Until April 9th.

THE BEGINNING The inauguration of COR23, a brand new coworking space and gallery, features an exhibition by Colombian artist Mareo Rodriguez. 7pm. COR23. Cortines 23.

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MOMU & NO ES This virtual reality installation encourages visitors to question the status of the places that they move through. Fundació Joan Miró. Parc de Montjuïc. Until March 5th.

PULP FICTION The Filmoteca de Catalunya screens Tarantino’s cult classic, more than 20 years after it was first released. 5pm. Filmoteca de Catalunya. Pl. Salvador Seguí 1-9.

WERTHER Twenty-five years after it last showed at the Liceu, the iconic opera, based on a novel by Goethe, returns to the stage. 8pm. Gran Teatre del Liceu. La Rambla 51-59.

DANIIL TRIFONOV The pianist, described by The Times as “an artist of breathtaking poise and theatricality” performs classical greats. 8.30pm. L’Auditori. Lepant 150.

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HIVERNACLE POP UP CLUB Electronic music fans can dance the day away against the magical backdrop of Poble Espanyol. 3pm. Poble Espanyol. Av. Francesc Ferrer i Guardia 13.

HERSELVES This exhibition examines the role of women in society, displaying the work of a diverse group of female artists. Blueproject Foundation. Princesa 57. Until Feb 26th.

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SABATON The Swedish heavy metal band are set to get heads banging when The Last Tour comes to Barcelona. 6pm. Sant Jordi Club. Psg. Olímpic 5-7.

CONCURS TENOR VIÑAS Help discover the voices of the future at this world-renowned opera competition, founded over 50 years ago. 6pm. Gran Teatre del Liceu. La Rambla 51-59.

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CONEJO Daniel José Cabrera Castro explores the consequences of love in his latest exhibition. Miscelanea. Guàrdia 10. Until Feb 5th.

HANDEL & FRIENDS Prepare to be transported through time, from Vivaldi’s Venice to the lanes of Leipzig at this classical concert. 11.30am. L’Auditori. Lepant 150.

ILLENIUM The American DJ will get crowds dancing with hits like ‘Falling In’, in his first European gig since his incredible US tour. 4pm. Shôko. Pg. Marítim 36.

NIAMH MARRON The multi award-winning comedian performs her hilariously inappropriate stand-up show for one night only. 8.30pm. The Shamrock. Tallers 72. MUSIC RIOT OI! FEST This festival combines craft beer and an impressive lineup of artists from all across Spain. 7pm. Can Batlló. Constitució 25.

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ELENA SETIÉN The Basque artist brings her sophisticated sound to Barcelona, singing songs from her album Dreaming of Earthly Things (2016). 9.30pm. Marula. Escudillers 49.

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WTF JAM SESSION A must-see on the club scene in Barcelona for the past 15 years, jazz takes centre stage. 8pm. Jamboree. Pl. Reial 17.

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LLUÏSA VIDAL MNAC exhibits a series of the Catalan Modernist painter Lluïsa Vidal’s most engaging portraits. MNAC. Parc de Montjuïc. Until Jan 15th.

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DARE The Welsh rock band, fronted by Darren Wharton, perform hits from their latest album Sacred Ground (2016). 8pm. Razzmatazz. Pamplona 88.

THE STARS LOOK VERY DIFFERENT TODAY Razzmatazz pays tribute to the late, great David Bowie, raising money for AFANOC. 7.30pm. Razzmatazz. Almogàvers 122.

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TCHAIKOVSKY AT THE PALAU DE LA MÚSICA The National Symphony Orchestra of Ukraine play Tchaikovsky’s most famous works. 9pm. Palau de la Música. Palau de la Música 4-6.

ARTE & VENTA This exhibition brings everything from photography and design books, to illustrations under one roof to celebrate the diversity of art. La Plataforma BCN. Pujades 99. Until Feb 24th.

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FASHION

in style

VISITORS TO THE OSO WINTERFEST WERE DRESSED TO THE NINES FOR A WEEKEND OF STREET FOOD, LIVE MUSIC AND HOLIDAY FILMS.

Name: Matteo Age: 35 Profession: Entrepreneur From: São Paulo, Brazil Coat: Zara Man Brogues: Ted Baker

Name: Victoria Age: 28 Profession: Translator From: Bordeaux, France Coat: Holala Shoes: Reebok

Name: Ilaria Age: 28 Profession: Visual Merchandiser From: Trieste, Italy Coat: Market in Berlin Jumper: H&M Boots: H&M

GET THE LOOK gAP SHIrT €39,99 TEB BAKER BrOGueS €190,00 h&m jumper €19,99 mAngo jeAnS €29,99

REEBoK TrAInerS €89,95 ZARA COAT €89,95 h&m BOOTS €49,99 ZARA RAMBLA DE CATALUNYA 67. MANGO PAssEig DE gRàCiA 36. GAP EL CORTE iNgLÉs DiAgONAL. H&M PORTAL DE L’àNgEL 9. TED BAKER EL CORTE iNgLÉs DiAgONAL. REEBOK RiBEs 25.

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Boiled &

baked

THE RISE OF THE BAGEL IN BARCELONA BY SAM ZUCKER

I

t’s 8.30am and baker David Cowcill of Bakers Local is scooping sticky cups of syrupy malt extract from a plastic tub at Honey-B, the pastry shop and co-baking space just steps away from Barcelona’s Mercat Santa Caterina. A native of New Brunswick Canada, David has spent the last year fully dedicated to wooing Barcelona with his artisan bagels, one chewy bite at a time. “The malt is one of the most important ingredients in a real bagel,” David explains. “Without the slightly-sweet, toasted, nutty flavour of the malt, you just can’t achieve the true bagel taste.” It turns out that barley malt extract isn’t easy to come by in Spain, so David acquires his from Belgium, a major producer of barley (which is also an essential component of beer, for which Belgium is legendary). Once the dough is formed, it heads into the proofing cabinet, the humidity and warmth enveloping the live sourdough yeast starter during the colder months of the year. For those unfamiliar with this baked good of Polish origin (and a breakfast staple in Jewish communities around the world), the bagel is a ring-shaped bread with a firm, tangy dough that is shaped, fermented, boiled, sprinkled with toppings while wet, then baked until the outside is shiny and ‘snappy’ and the crumb is chewy and dense. There are myriad nuances that go into mastering this fickle product; hence, the dearth of authentic bagel bakers in Barcelona. The liberties taken with the term ‘bagel’ here would make a Jewish bubbie break down in tears. Calling round bread a bagel is like calling a hot dog a botifarra. Repeat after me: “A roll with a hole is not a bagel”.

Making a real bagel is a labour-intensive process and few people have taken the time to master the skill because there is such little demand for the product. That said, edible bagels come in many forms in Barcelona, and David’s are gaining quite a loyal following. They are what he likes to call a “Montreal-style hybrid”. “Authentic Montreal bagels are made from an unsalted dough, which would be far too bland for the local palate,” he tells me as his hands quickly roll and loop bagel after bagel. “And they are dense and pretzel-like, boiled in honey water then baked in wood fire ovens.” In Montreal, the boiled bagels are first baked on wet logs for a few minutes before being flipped onto a hot stone hearth to finish cooking. David salts his dough and executes the traditional Montreal boil. In New York City, the bagel capital of the world, bagels are often allowed to rise overnight (as opposed to Montreal’s half-hour proofing), and many NYC bakers prefer

steam chambers to boiling, which results in different textures and a much faster process, well-suited for high-volume production. There’s a lot of talk about the effects of water character on bagels (the water of New York City is supposedly great for bagels, by the way, due to mineral content and flavour). However, according to David, the lack of bagels in Barcelona has less to do with the baking conditions here and more with the fact that making a real bagel is a labour-intensive process and few people have taken the time to master the skill because there is such little demand for the product. But things are changing and the bagel, especially the bagel sandwich, is starting to gain ground. David currently sells his fresh bagels each morning at Honey-B (Sant Pere Més Baix 36) and supplies about one dozen restaurants with bagels each week. Pop-up restaurant and pastrami extraordinaires Rooftop Smokehouse recently started using Bakers Local bagels at their Pastrami Bar, the store front of the Paradiso speakeasy cocktail bar in the heart of the Born. Pastrami sandwiches are traditionally served on rye bread, but anyone who has ever tackled one of these towering beasts at NYC institutions such as Carnegie or Katz Deli knows that by the end of the sandwich the bread is long gone, or decimated by the moisture of the meat, mustard, pickles and cheese. A bagel, on the other hand, is hearty and firm enough to last until the last bite. Bakers Local bagels have a base of rye and white flour, which imparts a more complex flavour and offers a sublime vessel for savoury heaps of Rooftop Smokehouse’s pastrami (cured, spiced, smoked, boiled beef brisket). Bakers Local currently shares the Honey-B co-baking space (founded by Giles Brown of Mosquito, Red Ant and Grasshopper restaurants) with several other local bakery outfits, but David hopes to open his own bakery with a larger scale of production and really bring bagels to the masses. Bakers Local has gained a lot of momentum during their first 12 months of operation, but David isn’t the only bagel game in town.

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HERE’S THE SPREAD — A RUNDOWN OF SOME OF THE MOST WELL-KNOWN BAGEL PUSHERS IN BARCELONA: B MY BAGEL (Planeta 37): A long-time institution in the Plaça del Sol in Gràcia, B My Bagel is a bagel shop and normal bakery. These are large, squat bagels with an ample hole, that have a slightly toasty aroma but not a hint of sourdough. Although not as dense and chewy as I usually like my bagels, they do have a nice variety, from the more classic choices—poppy, multigrain, etc.—to innovative flavours like chocolate, almond and coconut. THE BAGEL HOOD (Ferlandina 61): Founded in 2016, by an Argentinian self-described “bagel fanatic”, the Bagel Hood has various sandwiches, served on their fresh-daily bagels that possess a nice hint of sweetness in the dough, are relatively small in size and baked to a darker, crispy brown. I must recommend the egg and bacon sandwich. It was delicious. BARCELONA BAGELS (Còrsega 398): Also founded in 2016, Barcelona Bagels has a retro branding and a large variety of sweet and savoury bagels, sandwiches and craft beer. Plump and soft, with very strong sourdough aromas and little to no hole, these bagels have a more complex flavour and make for good eating on their own, as well as packed with ingredients. BOSTON BAGELS (Mandri 3): Boston is my hometown so I was obviously excited to try this one. It turns out that, Monday through Friday, “Boston Bagels” is “Boston Pizza”—bagels only get baked on the weekends. I actually had a nice, though very soft, bagel from Boston Bagels in the form of a sandwich at a Gràcia coffee shop. However, when I went up to Sarrià to try the bagels from the source, they were a bit dry and crusty. I didn’t try these bagels toasted, only fresh, so perhaps some toasting could save them. BAKERS LOCAL (Sant Pere Més Baix 36): As far as I can tell, Bakers Local makes the most “authentic” bagels in Barcelona, but I may be biased because I got to taste these babies fresh out of the oven, and they were heavenly. The flavour is complexly sour, toasty and salty, and the texture is dense and chewy, without the least bit of “bready” or “cakey” crumb that seems to plague the competition. A little bit smaller than the others, the sandwiches made with these bagels are very tasty but less filling than they could be. When frozen and then toasted, the flavour and texture remained true to the fresh version, with the sourdough aroma and flavour more subtle than those of Barcelona Bagels. TASTE OF AMERICA (Aragó 231): This shop is, for lack of a more accurate description, a shrine to American junk food (because who doesn't miss Twinkies and imitation maple syrup?), and it is on this list mostly for fun. Their bagels are of the frozen, supermarket variety, dubbed “Authentic New York Style Boiled Bagels”. They'll do in a pinch, but don't expect any miracles. The magic that happens at Bakers Local

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A new kind of club

IN THE CITY

HIP, STYLISH AND DEFINITELY NOT STUFFY, SOHO HOUSE OPENS IN BARCELONA BY LUCAS CAVAZOS

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ever before has the Plaça del Duc de Medinaceli been so spruced up. And, at the far end of this newly-gentrified square, looking out to the Port Vell marina, stands Soho House, Barcelona’s latest members’ club and an exclusive destination for the city’s creative types. The history of Soho House begins in 1995, when businessman and creator Nick Jones created an outlet for London’s creative network that catered to their often specific needs, but in a calm manner that didn’t infringe on the associates. “Organisation is key to the relaxed vibe at Soho Houses around the world,” said Jones, who believes that Soho House must be for creators and those who inspire, not for the business elite. The Barcelona location is the latest in the global network that now includes 18 clubs. We took a quick peek into what Soho House Barcelona offers. At the discrete entrance visitors are greeted by a smiling doorman, casually but smartly dressed for this new age. Inside, it’s hip style all around and a distinct lack of formal dress (in fact, ties are not allowed). The cafe/lounge area welcomes even the most beleaguered worker or traveller with an airy and inviting salon that spans over two wings, one for the café and one for the lounge, where a plethora of services from WiFi to plush sofas create a deluxe but eclectic coworking environment. The hotel rooms follow the same aesthetic that the brand has become known for, using local artisan crafts and furniture alongside more classic touches. Food plays an integral part in the mission of Soho House. Downstairs, you’ll find Cecconi’s Barcelona, where a touch of Venice decor meets exquisite Italian fare, all homemade, including the pasta, in an open kitchen. Brunch comes highly recommended and is always accompanied by live music or DJs. If it’s a fully-stocked bar you’re after, that’s the first thing that will catch your eye when you enter the upstairs lounge area, but also down near the lobby in Cecconi’s, you’ll find just about anything that suits your poison and a fantastic selection of wine. The Soho House spa is simply titled Cowshed, hailing from its barnyard origins back in the UK. From exclusive treatments to exceptional products, there is little that the staff of Cowshed can’t provide. Take advantage of the pool and steam room, then shimmy on up to the roof terrace, where you will not only get the chance to capture 360° views of the city, but with a bar service surrounding the infinity pool, your point of relaxation will be complete. Soho House certainly gives the appearance of an exclusive venue reserved for trendy adults, but it’s a child-friendly environment too (especially in the restaurant and pool areas at the weekend). In fact, the club has also opened the very kid-friendly Chicken Shop and Dirty Burger right next door, with exceptional service and organic offerings to suit any palate. Membership of the local club is €125 per month, with a 50 percent discount for people under 27. New members are accepted on a case-by-case manner several times throughout the year. Soho House means to nurture the right atmosphere for people in the creative industries, so a great title and deep pockets doesn’t mean you get in automatically. For more on Soho House, read our online interview with membership head Chris Glass.

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TRAVEL

5 Wellness

RETREATS

PLACES TO NURTURE YOUR BODY AND SOUL BY MELISSA LEIGHTY

Taking time out to focus on our mental and physical wellbeing is a powerful way to start the new year. We’re all motivated in different ways, so here are five retreats that offer exceptional ways of nurturing the soul, from spiritual solitude and quiet, to the power of human connection.

Photo courtesy of Cal Pau Cruset

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THE COWORKING RETREAT

Nectar is founded on the belief that working in a collaborative environment away from the pressures of everyday life can restore and empower us personally and professionally. Founders Tai Lomas and Olga Sureda are so committed to this concept that they decided to create a rural coworking and co-living experience in their 16th-century farmhouse, located in the heart of the Les Guilleries natural park, just an hour or so north of Barcelona by car. The farmhouse is an off-the-grid live-work space. It offers visitors private and shared rooms, common spaces, a fullyequipped kitchen, and of course, WiFi. Most importantly, the area of Les Guilleries-Savassona where they are positioned is a spectacular region from which guests can draw inspiration. The pair organise a variety of retreats including yoga retreats, boot camps, hackathons and workations for freelancers, digital nomads and companies who want to take advantage of the couple’s alternative vision of the integration of work and life. www.nectarconectar.com

Photo by Tai Lomas

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THE HEALTHY EATING RETREAT

Cal Pau Cruset is a Catalan farmhouse located in the village of Torrelles de Foix in the Alt Penedès, in the middle of wine country. It is home to the Alaya Retreat Centre, which hosts a wide variety of activities, workshops, courses and tours throughout the year. One of the most popular is their Eco Detox Retreat, which uses juices and superfoods to detox and restore the body, in combination with other activities like nutrition, yoga and mindfulness classes. Participants can also take advantage of other wellness services such as reiki, massage and energy healing. Those looking to enjoy the bounty of the centre’s excellent location can participate in cooking classes, wine tastings, biking and hiking excursions, and beach days. A full calendar of upcoming events can be found on their website. www.calpaucruset.com

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3

THE WILDERNESS RETREAT

The Ecodharma Centre, based in a remote mountain valley in the Sierra de Carreu of the Catalan Pyrenees, runs a ‘naturebased practice and learning’ programme. It can perhaps be best described as a sort of Spanish Walden, seeking to connect participants to the environment as a source of nourishment, wellbeing and inspiration. They combine mindfulness practice and meditation with nature-based education and wilderness skills. In addition, the programme organises solitary time in the wilderness, ranging from one day to two weeks. Their website offers information about their philosophy and methodologies as well as their various retreats. They also use the Dana Economy, which operates on the principle of ‘give what you can, take what you need’. www.ecodharma.com

Photo by Hector Mediavilla

4

The Co-Living ReTReaT

PandoraHub is an alternative coworking and co-living enterprise focused on entrepreneurship that takes its show on the road, operating at least part of the year in a 21-day caravan-like road trip throughout rural Spain, with stops in different eco or abandoned villages along the way. The most recent trip was set up in 10 stages, with stops of several days to a week in each place, where participants learned ways to rebuild and repopulate these abandoned villages, while gaining new vision for their personal and professional projects. At each stop, participants connect with local startups, volunteer in eco-villages and co-live with locals, while participating in a variety of workshops and talks by local entrepreneurs, which might include topics like growth hacking, 360º sustainable business, visual thinking, or dynamic governance. Participants not only benefit from co-living and co-working with startup founders, digital nomads and makers, but they can also take advantage of discounted rates and access to village houses and local hosts once their trip is over. www.pandorahub.co

Photo courtesy of PandoraHub

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THE ZEN RETREAT

The Escuela Kwam Um Zen is part of a larger network of schools around the world that teaches the practices of Korean Zen Buddhism to westerners, including silent meditation, chanting, prostration, and the use of mantras and kong-ans. Those interested in exploring the practices of Zen Buddhism can learn its ways in daily classes at their Barcelona location, as well as in retreats at their other centre, Bori Sa, in the stunning volcanic region of Alta Garrotxa, about two hours north of Barcelona by car. The two-day retreats, occasionally led by visiting Zen Masters, are entirely silent and focused on keeping alive the practice of attention at all times. The schedule is an intensive combination of sitting and walking meditation, chanting, prostrations and formal meals. Those new to Zen practices can learn more about it by participating in their daily sessions (offered mornings and evenings) or at the one-day introductory class, Zen Day, on March 5th (from 9am to 3pm) at their Barcelona location, Bori Centro Zen. www.kwanumeurope.org/barcelona

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RESTAURANT REVIEW

DOS PEBROTS

T

TWO PEPPERS AND PIG NIPPLES BY SAM ZUCKER he creator of now legendary Asian-fusion restaurant Dos Palillos (one Michelin star) and former Chef de Cuisine at the mythical elBulli, Chef Albert Raurich, jumped at the chance to take over the space of the old Bar Raval, a true neighbourhood institution. Last autumn his newest restaurant, Dos Pebrots, finally opened, and Executive Chef Raurich has used this blank slate to bring a long-held vision to life—a restaurant concept that tells the history of gastronomy. Raurich and his Chef de Cuisine Borja García Ordoño poured over old culinary and history books to create a menu that follows a timeline of ingredients and techniques dating all the way back to the Phoenicians and Ancient Egypt, with stopovers in Ancient Persia, Medieval Catalunya, Twenties San Sebastián, and Spain’s ‘Golden Era’ of Don Quijote. The menu format is quite unique, with the following columns: Final Dish, Main Ingredient, Main Cooking Method, Historical Origin of the Preparation Technique, Suggested Eating Utensil, and Price. We put ourselves at the mercy of the chef and the highly trained waiting staff, who ferried one eccentric dish to the table after another. In the centre of the table was a caddy filled to the brim with every

Photo by Tara Stevens

✪ NOT WORTH THE TRIP

imaginable type of utensil, from chopsticks and knives, to tweezers and wooden spoons. We sat at a long table within arm’s reach of the kitchen pass and settled into an epic meal that lasted nearly three hours. The first dish to arrive at the table was the Xarab, a platter of ice, topped with various pieces of fresh fruit infused with distinct liqueurs via vacuum-bagosmosis. The dish was very refreshing, though I thought that the majority of the fruits were overpowered by the alcohol and a touch bitter. Origin: Al-Andalus. Utensil: chopsticks or bamboo skewer.

Perhaps the most bizarre dish of all was the Confit Pig Udders, essentially several gelatinous pig nipples slow-cooked in pork fat then grilled. Next came a small dish of roasted leeks swimming in a marinade of beer, vinegar, herbs and honey. The flavour of this dish (with Ancient Egyptian origins) was quite subtle. Served at room temperature, the texture of the leeks was excellent and the taste delicate, ✪✪ COULD IMPROVE

Recipe ESCAROLE WHITE BEAN SOUP

(Serves 6) Olive oil 4 cloves garlic, thinly sliced 2 heads escarole lettuce, washed, leaves separated 2 litres chicken stock (I use Aneto brand from the

supermarket) 500g cooked white beans (mongetes) 100g Parmesan, grated (rind reserved) Salt and black pepper

✪✪✪ GOOD

though again it had a hint of bitterness that didn’t sit right with me. The third dish of the tasting was an excellent and entirely simplistic preparation of vinegarcured anchovies (boquerones en vinagre) with apple vinegar and fennel feed. The fish tasted extremely fresh and the texture was firm without being at all tough. After the boquerones, small bowls of cold veal tripe in vinegar (a salpicón) arrived, served with leaves of bibb lettuce to make little wraps. The texture of the tripe was really great, but I felt like it was missing salt and some sort of sauce. Half of my dining companions barely touched this one. The next dish was perhaps the most simple of the entire meal, yet delicious. Each of us got our own roasted potato with classic allioli (garlic and oil paste), a dish with roots in the year 1560, when the potato allegedly first arrived in Catalunya from the New World. As we moved through the meal, the presentations became more unconventional. The One Sided Pine Nut Omelet was cooked tableside by our waiter, who poured beaten eggs into a smoking-hot cast iron skillet fresh off the fire. He moved quickly as the egg set on one side, sprinkling the shimmering surface with toasted pine nuts, chervil, mint oil and garum (a 40-day-aged, house-made fermented

✪✪✪✪ VERY GOOD

After the excesses of Christmas and new year celebrations, it’s not that I suddenly decide my body is a temple or anything, but I do feel the need to eat simpler, healthier food. This dish is admittedly Italian in origin, but it works so well with ingredients available in Catalunya at the moment that I think we can afford a little poetic licence. It also makes good use of escarole, which is, sadly, underrated. A fairly bitter leaf that’s more traditionally used as a basis for the salad xató on the Costa Daurada (escarole dressed in Romesco sauce and garnished with salt cod, anchovies and tuna), it’s a great cooking lettuce. This soup is ridiculously easy, but tasty enough to serve as a mid-week

✪✪✪✪✪ NOT TO BE MISSED

supper to friends. Or, as I like to do, decant into some mugs from a large flask and have as a wintry picnic after a long, blustery walk on the beach.

METHOD 1. Saute the garlic in oil over a medium heat until softened, do not brown. 2. Add the escarole lettuce and stir until wilted slightly, then add the stock, white beans and rinds of Parmesan. 3. Bring to a boil then simmer for about five minutes to bring the flavours together. 4. Season well and sprinkle with grated Parmesan. 5. Serve with lots of crusty bread on top.

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fish sauce from the era of Ancient Rome). This recipe is drawn from a first-century cookbook De re coquinaria, and is considered one of the oldest recipes in existence. Perhaps the most bizarre dish of all was the Confit Pig Udders, essentially several gelatinous pig nipples slow-cooked in pork fat then grilled. These nipples were placed, with a dark sense of humour no doubt, on the belly of an upturned pig statue that served as a platter. Despite the unsettling appearance, the udder was an utter delight (cringy pun intended). A pretty ceramic dish of rabbit kidneys in sherry wine was up next. In concept, I should have thoroughly enjoyed this one, but it turned out to be the blandest plate of the entire meal. However, winning me back after this disappointing course came a steaming cast iron cassola of slow-cooked lamb neck kebabs, which totally blew me away with incredible fatty deliciousness. Served alongside the fall-off-the-bone lamb was fresh pita bread, yoghurt sauce and a spicy melange of marinated tomatoes and guindilla peppers. I loved this dish (eaten with your hands) and so did everyone else. Every bit of meat was coaxed out of the hot iron vessel with picks, forks and fingers. Not a scrap was left and I can now say that lamb neck kebab, if not my new favourite food, is certainly a dish for the history books.

MORE INFO

Photos provided by Dos Pebrots

Dr. Dou 19. T. 93 853 9598 www.dospebrots.com Mon-Tues CLOSED Wed-Sun 1pm-11pm ✪✪✪✪

in season: JANUARY Escarole, calçots, garlic, swiss chard, artichokes

Tara Stevens is a food writer and cook who splits her time between Barcelona and her little cooking school in the Fez Medina. Passionate about Spanish and Moroccan cuisine, she takes traditional recipes and gives them a modern makeover using local and seasonal ingredients. Follow Tara on Instagram @courtyardkitchenfez and Twitter @taralstevens.

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QUICK BITES

MORE INFO Major de Sarrià 95 T. 93 205 8806 Mon-Sun 1pm-12am elcanalla@gruposantelmo.com

EL CANALLA

T

he Josper oven, an ingenious combination of a traditional oven and a charcoal grill, steals the show at El Canalla, which has become one of the most popular and welcoming restaurants in the neighbourhood of Sarrià since it opened in 2011. A Josper oven can be heated with any kind of fuel, from various hardwood charcoals to coconut shells, offering chefs the tantalising sear and smokey flavour of a traditional grill, while occupying no more space than a typical restaurant oven. Every night of the week, the charcoal embers glow in the kitchen of El Canalla, tucked in the most privileged of locations in the corner of the Plaça de Sarrià on the Carrer Major de Sarrià. Diners at El Canalla enjoy superb food that is never over-complicated, yet always packed with flavour and cooked with finesse. The Josper-grilled Pluma Ibérica with caramelised shallots and roasted potatoes may be the most tender and unctuous cut of grilled pork I have ever tasted; the deboned pig’s feet with boniato purée and citrus were pure, porky, sticky pleasure. Though grill-centric cuisine is most commonly associated with meat, El Canalla embraces the treasures of the sea and the garden as well, with garlicky grilled sardines and simple-yet-perfect, whole grilled El Prat artichokes, to be eaten leisurely, leaf by leaf. Though the service and ambience of El Canalla are lovely, the pristine quality of their ingredients is lovelier still, effortlessly carrying these classic dishes to great heights. The Josper grill is lit at dinner time from Monday to Friday, and all day on the weekends. Seven days a week, from 1pm until midnight, El Canalla also offers a tempting menu of vermouth and tapas, including quintessential dishes like croquettes, aubergine with honey, and fried squid, as well as some recipes that venture east into Asianfusion territory like Fried Rabbit Ribs with Vietnamese ‘Ho Chi Minh’ sauce and Thai-style Confit Chicken Drumettes. The cosy bar area and intimate upstairs dining room of this 17th-century building invite you to stay for hours and savour every bite in the company of good friends, and that’s exactly what you should do.

Photos courtesy of El Canalla

COLD NIGHTS AND HOT COALS BY SAM ZUCKER

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NEFW &D

FOOD DRINK

& IN

Bar D9 BAR4 POBLENOU Whether you are an Erasmus student, a football fanatic or a music lover, D9 Bar has at least one night a week for you. Equipped with a terrace, D9 offers a wide range of tapas, beers, cocktails and shots for every night of the week. With American Day on Wednesdays, Erasmus parties on Thursdays and music-themed parties on Fridays and Saturdays, there is always something for everyone. 

DISCOUNT FOR METROPOLITAN READERS

 under 20 |  20-30 |  30-40 |  over 40  food&drink visit our online directory

Pallars 122, 08016 Tel. 93 309 9202 I www.denou.bar Sun-Thurs 6pm-2.30am Fri-Sat 6pm-3am

www.barcelona-metropolitan.com/eating-and-drinking

CHICKEN SHOP & DIRTY BURGER 4BARRI GÒTIC

BAR DOS BILLARES4 RAVAL

Roast chicken and burgers – is there anything more appealing? This recently opened restaurant serves both! Their chicken from the Empordà region is marinated and cooked over coals by Chef Iñaki Moreno. They have some amazing Burgers on the Menu, with vegan and gluten free options too. Don’t forget to try their craft beers and cocktails! DJ sessions every Friday and Saturday from 8pm onwards. 

This well-kept secret is located in the basement of Casa Camper Hotel, where jazz, culture and billiard lovers can relax and enjoy an exclusive cocktail. This club offers a programme of cultural and music events for the most creative public. It is the ideal space for escaping the crowds or hosting business clients. 

Duc de Medinacelli 2, 08002 Tel. 93 220 47009 christian@chickenshop.com Mon-Fri 1pm-12am and Sat 12pm-12am Sun 12pm-11am www.chickenshop.com www.eatdirtyburger.com

Elisabets 11 | Metro Liceu Tel. 93 342 6280 Tues-Thurs 4pm-12am Fri-Sat 4pm-2am www.club.casacamper.com

LOIDI RESTAURANT4 EIXAMPLE

BLACKLAB BREWERY4 BARCELONETA

Loidi is a contemporary bistro, in which Martin Berasategui makes his cuisine accessible to everybody. Prepared with the finest seasonal ingredients, his cuisine is presented with an imagination that recalls and pays homage to the celebrated Basque chef’s traditional roots and origins. The menu features various dining options with dishes that change on a weekly basis. The restaurant is a very contemporary, warm and comfortable space frequented by a local and professional clientele. Head chef: Jordi Asensio. Maître d’: Oscar Fernández. 

The recently opened BlackLab Brewery offers customers a new experience in Barcelona––a place to enjoy a unique pint of craft beer, made just two metres away from where you’re sitting. BlackLab’s food is a culinary journey from China all the way to New York. You’ll find dumplings and bahn mi, mussels fresh from the fish market, ramen, cheesecake, portobello mushrooms, and more. New 1 hour beer tour every Sunday at 5pm. Tastings of 4 beers for €12. Quote ‘Metropolitan’ to receive a free BlackLab bag. 

Mallorca 248-250, 08008 Tel. 93 492 9292 Mon-Sat 1pm-3.30pm and 8pm-11pm, Sun 1pm-3.30pm

Palau de Mar, Plaça Pau Vila 1, 08039 Tel. 93 22 18 360 hola@blacklab.es www.blacklab.es

NEW BEER TOUR

Indian / Tandoori SURYA4EIXAMPLE

NICE SPICE4POBLENOU

Surya Barcelona is an Indian restaurant that invites you to travel all the way to the streets of Mumbai, rich in colour, smell and exotic flavours. They offer a cosy and relaxed space where you can feel at home, drink, read a magazine, connect to the Internet and work, all while sampling some of their delicious dishes. After dinner you can relax with cocktails and enjoy their in-house DJs, from their The House Party collective on “Deep Fridays”, to Saturday night’s “Funky New Disco”. 

Specialists in Tandoori. Typical halaal with high quality dishes. See the chefs prepare and cook your food which is all made with fresh ingredients. Boasting a Bollywood musical ambience, Nice Spice is an excellent choice for traditional indian food in Barcelona. 

Pau Claris 92 | Consell de Cent 236, 08011 Tel. 93 667 8760 www.suryabarcelona.com Mon-Sun 10am-3am

Pujades 207 | Metro Poblenou Tel. 93 308 9548 www.restaurantnicespice.com Wed-Mon 12pm-4pm, 8pm-12pm

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FONDA ESPAÑA4 BARRI GÒTIC

MANNÀ GELATS4 BARRI GÒTIC

Located in the emblematic Hotel España, the Modernist dining room, designed and decorated by Domènech i Montaner, houses Fonda España. Rich in patrimonial interest, the historic elements in this beautiful room inspire and enhance the new elements. Here, Gastronomic Director Martín Berasategui’s aim is to offer his well-known culinary concept to diners looking for simple, balanced and delicious dishes that are a tribute to the renowned chef’s origins. 

Mannà Gelats offers homemade ice creams, waffles and crêpes in the heart of the Barrio Gótico. Their ice creams are inspired by family recipes, using the finest products. The fresh fruit sorbets are made with market-bought products, and boast a range of exotic varieties. Their passion is to please their customers with personalised attention. 

Banys Nous 22 | Metro Liceu Tel. 93 342 7312 Sun-Thurs 11am-10pm Fri-Sat 11am-11pm www.mannagelats.wordpress.com

Sant Pau 9-11 I Metro Liceu Tel. 93 550 0000 Mon-Sat 1pm-4pm and 8pm-11pm Sun 1pm-4pm

MALPASO4EIXAMPLE

CAFÉ MENSSANA4 CIUTAT VELLA

This recently opened restaurant offers traditional Mexican cuisine. For starters, don’t miss the excellent house nachos, served with cheese, pico de gallo, guacamole and sour cream, or Vuelve la Vida, a seafood ceviche with avocado, tomato and lime. Other dishes include the Arrachera, a grilled US prime hanger steak served with baked vegetables, as well as the Atún Moctezuma, a pan-seared tuna battered in Mexican spices, served with pico de gallo, avocado and mint sauce. Mexican brunch is also available at the weekend.  

At Menssana, a creative and healthy cuisine is combined with gracious and knowledgeable service. There is something for everyone, with vegan and vegetarian options created using flavours from across the globe. They also offer a carefully selected range of local wines and beers, as well as smoothies and fresh juices. Their aim is to nourish your body and mind with delicious meals, served in a vibrant and friendly atmosphere.  Sardenya 48, 08005 Tel. 93 624 3505 Mon-Sat 9am-12am Sun 9am-6pm www.facebook.com/menssanabarcelona

Girona 59, 08009 Tel. 93 461 3060 Mon-Thurs 8am-12am Fri-Sat 8am-3pm, Sun 9.30am-12am

BRITTA’S NORDIC DELI4GRÀCIA

SÚPER COFFEE & FOOD STORE4POBLENOU Súper’s coffee is freshly roasted single origin coffee prepared by a professionally trained barista. The coffee can be enjoyed with fresh milk locally sourced from farms in the region, or ecologic plant milk such as hazelnut, almond and oat. Súper also supplies a selection of freshly prepared and high quality food, including artisan sandwiches, salads, pastries and snacks to locals and businesses in the area. Healthy food cooked by us for you to take away. 

Britta’s Nordic Deli is the first and only Scandinavian deli in Barcelona. Here you’ll find the most delicious sandwiches and smørrebrød in town. Moreover, they offer all kinds of specialities to take away from a wide charcuterie, including smoked and marinated wild salmon, hot smoked salmon, marinated herring, homemade salads, smoked deer, organic cheeses, Danish seaweed caviar and a lot more. Bonavista 29 | Tel. 93 461 7362 | Mon 5-9pm, Tues-Fri 11.30am-3.30pm and 5pm-9pm, Sat 11.30am-3.30pm, Sun closed | www.brittas.es

Delivery FOODIES BARCELONA4POBLENOU Foodies Barcelona is an online restaurant that prepares wholesome and fresh meals, delivering to your office, business or party. Whether you want a healthy lunch for a meeting or daily catering, they’ve got you covered. Order online or contact them for a menu. 

Roc Boronat 102, 08018 Mon-Fri 8am-6pm www.superbcn.es

Sant Joan de Malta 131 | Tel. 93 266 4271 Mon-Fri 8am-11am | www.foodiesbarcelona.es

Vegetarian/Vegan BE MY BAGEL4GRÀCIA

GOVINDA (VEGETARIAN)4BARRI GÒTIC

Do you dream of great bagels? Then Be My Bagel is the right place for you. They sell authentic bagels from Barcelona, just how you like them. Offering an extensive range of bagels and cakes—from the more classic choices such as poppy and multigrain to delicious and innovative chocolate, almond and coconut bagels—you won’t come away disappointed. 

Founded 25 years ago, Govinda continues to thrive on a blend of experience and fresh innovation with its vegetarian Indian cuisine. The international menu features thalis, a salad bar, natural juices, lassis, pizzas and crêpes. Govinda offers a vegan-friendly, non-alcoholic and authentically-decorated environment with lunch and weekend menus. 

Planeta 37 (Pl. del Sol) | Metro Fontana or Gràcia Tel. 93 518 7151 I bemybagel@gmail.com Mon-Fri 9.30am-2pm and 5pm-8.30pm Sat 10am-2.30pm and 6pm-10pm Sun 10.30am-2pm www.bemybagel.es

Plaça Vila de Madrid 4-5 | Metro Catalunya | Tel. 93 318 7729 Tues-Sat 1pm-4pm and 8pm-11.30pm, Sun-Mon 1pm-4pm | www.govinda.es

AMALTEA4EIXAMPLE A warm and welcoming environment allows you to fully enjoy a tasty and healthier alternative to your everyday meal. Dishes include cereals, pulses and vegetables with homemade puddings. The cuisine is creatively international with care taken to ensure that each meal is well-balanced and made with the freshest ingredients. Their menu of the day costs 10.70, while their night and weekend menus cost 15.50.  Diputació 164 | Metro Urgell | Tel. 93 454 8613 Mon-Sat 1pm-4pm and 8pm-11pm, Sun closed | www.restauranteamaltea.com

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HEALTH &BEAUTY

Mary D. McCarthy - DOCTOR

Doctor for Adults

DISCOUNT FOR METROPOLITAN READERS

Feel confident with Dr. Mary McCarthy, an American-trained doctor for adults. A native English speaker with over 20 years’ experience in Barcelona, Dr. McCarthy offers professional, private health care. She is a member of the American College of Physicians and is also certified as a Specialist by the American Board of Internal Medicine. She is also a member of IAMAT.

To advertise in this section call: 93 451 4486 or email: sales@barcelona-metropolitan.com See our online directory at

www.barcelona-metropolitan.com Doctors Barcelona - DOCTOR Doctors Barcelona is the top medical group in Barcelona. They are committed to providing a first-rate level of care and attention. They are experienced, trained and equipped to diagnose and treat the most acute or chronic medical problems and injuries. Available 24 hours including weekends and holidays. A 30-minute arrival time to your destination is guaranteed. Their visit fee is refundable by most insurance companies. All doctors are specialists and, using their services, the best hospitals are available.

M. 689 327 144 info@doctorsbarcelona.com www.doctorsbarcelona.com

Mary D. McCarthy, M.D. Fellow American College of Physicians

Aribau 215 Pral. 1a T. 93 200 2924 M. 607 220 040 Metro Diagonal or FGC Gràcia

Dr Bassas - DERMATOLOGY The Javier Bassas Dermatology Centre is a well-renowned dermatology and surgical centre equipped with the latest technology. The medical team, led by Dr. Javier Bassas Bresca, consists of Surgical Dermatology and Venereology specialists with vast clinical and surgical experience. Their goal is to provide specialised, rigorous, efficient and accessible care in Surgical Dermatology and Venereology, with the highest quality and ethical standards. Diagnosing and treating skin diseases is their priority, as well as offering the latest advances in dermoaesthetics. Consulta Balmes 24 1º1 T. 93 412 6602. Teknon, Marquesa de Vilallonga nº 12. Consulta nº 34 1ª 08017 T. 93 290 6434 www.drbassas.com

Dr. Steven Joseph - DOCTOR An English doctor in Barcelona, Dr Steven Joseph is a member of The Royal College of General Practitioners and The Royal College of Psychiatrists. He offers a wide range of medical care, including family medicine, sexual health, mental health and access to all specialists and tests. Physiotherapy and chiropractic services are also available. Googol Medical Center provides comprehensive healthcare in a relaxed, friendly and discreet environment. Dr Joseph is happy to take your enquiries directly. Gran Via Carles III 37-39, 08028 M. 662 291 191 www.englishdoctorbarcelona.com

ServiDigest - HEALTH ServiDigest have more than 40 years’ experience working for your health and are pioneers in colorectal cancer prevention. Nowadays, colorectal cancer is one of the most common cancers and prevention is the best treatment. The cure for colorectal cancer depends on preventative measures and its early diagnosis. Detecting symptoms at earlier stages is the key to a good outcome. However, if it is discovered at an advanced stage, it has a five-year survival rate. They have two important digestive screening programmes: the Colorectal Prevention Programme and the Digestive Cancer Prevention Programme.

Narayn Yadave AYURVEDIC DOCTOR Dr. Narayn is an expert in digestion disorders, diet and nutrition at Ayurveda Barcelona, an Ayurvedic Health Centre located in the “Les Corts” district behind L’Illa Diagonal. The centre provides Ayurvedic consultancy, Ayurvedic treatments and massages, detox programmes and ongoing training in Ayurveda.

ServiDigest. Thinking of people. Fostering prevention. Medical and Surgical Center ServiDigest

Balmes 334, 08006 T. 93 415 3464/93 545 0990 Mon-Fri 9am-2pm and 4pm-9pm Sat 9am-2pm, Sun closed uad@servidigest.com www.servidigest.com

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Carrer de L’Aviacio 11, 08029 T. 93 494 29 28 / M. 639 325 756 ayurvedabarcelona.net@gmail.com www.ayurvedabarcelona.net. Open Mon-Sat 10am-8.30pm

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Orthoestetic - DENTIST

Dra. Susana Campi - DENTIST

The Orthoestetic Clinic is located in the heart of Barcelona near the Sagrada Familia. They have modern clinical facilities and equipment, which together with their dentists experience allows them to offer an integral quality dentistry, designed to seek the satisfaction of the patients. Dr. Holguin is a specialist in orthopedics and orthodontics for children and adults, and dental aesthetics. She is certified by the Invisalign system.

New premises, new services and new state of the art equipment! For all your dental needs, this team consisting of first-class professionals can offer you excellent treatment. They have more than 35 years of experience and are pleased to offer you their services in English, German, French, Italian, Spanish and Catalan.

Josep Tarradellas 97 local, 08029 Metro: Rocafort/Rosselló (L5) Bus: 15,27,32,43,54,59,66,78 T. 93 321 4005 Mon, Weds, Thurs 3.30pm-8.30pm Tues and Fri 9.30am-2pm susanacampi1980@gmail.com www.clinicadentalcampi.com

Platinum Provider

Dr. Boj - DENTIST

Jessica Boston COGNITIVE HYPNOTHERAPIST & COACH

Dr. Boj and his team offer specialised, comprehensive dental and orthodontic treatment for children and teens. Laser dentistry and invisible orthodontics are provided. Dr. Boj lectures on dentistry related to these age groups. He studied at the School of Medicine and Dentistry of the University of Rochester, NY, USA. This is a fast and friendly service in an English-speaking, international environment.

Jessica Boston is a certified Cognitive Hypnotherapist based in the centre of Barcelona. Cognitive Hypnotherapy works to redefine your subconscious perspective and guide you towards what you really want, making positive change quickly and permanently to any kind of issue. Why not get in touch for your complimentary consultation to find out how it could change any aspect of your life, because nothing has to be the way it’s always been.

Prats de Mollo 10, bajos B 08021 T. 93 209 3994 www.drboj.org

M. 660 514 795 Metro: Diagonal/Provenca www.jessicaboston.com hello@jessicaboston.com

Eugenia Espinosa - ENGLISH

NEST - NETWORK OF ENGLISH SPEAKING THERAPISTS

SPEAKING PSYCHOLOGIST Eugenia is a licensed psycologist (col. 18602) and therapist for individuals, couples and families, who specialises in issues related to migration. Trained in Mexico, New York and Barcelona, she has a wealth of experience in treating individuals dealing with the complexities and stress of building a new life in a forgein country. She also offers comprehensive treatment for people going through depression, divorce or any other life-altering event.

50% DISCOUNT ON 1ST VISIT FREE CONSULTATION

NETWORK OF ENGLISH SPEAKING THERAPISTS

Santa Perpetua M. 677 090 479 genaespinosa@yahoo.com www.eugeniaespinosa.es

Hestía - PSYCHOTHERAPY

Diagonal 343, 2º 3ª Metro: Verdaguer (L5) T. 93 459 2802 info@hestia.es www.hestia.es

The Barcelona Network of English Speaking Therapists (NEST) is a multidisciplinary group of qualified and practising psychologists, psychiatrists and psychotherapists who live and work in and around Barcelona. NEST members work in the English language and have their roots in training bodies and professional associations based elsewhere. A number of NEST members also work in Catalan, Spanish, Bulgarian, Dutch, German, Italian and Greek. For detailed information, please visit their website. www.barcelonaNEST.com

Lovecycle - CYCLING REINVENTED

Hestía International Psychotherapy Centre has become a reference in the city, due to its high quality multidisciplinary and multilingual profile. Their professional team works with individuals, couples and families through a variety of services and approaches to therapy and personal development. They speak English, Spanish, French, Italian, Dutch, German, Portuguese, Greek, Polish, Swedish, Russian and Catalan. The first consultation is free.

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Diagonal 341, loc 1. 08037 T. 93 512 4749 M. 638 545 555 Metro: Verdaguer (L4 ,L5) www.orthoestetic.es www.ortoesteticbcn.es info@orthoestetic.es

LOVECYCLE is a 45 minute highintensity, high-energy, cardio dance workout for the entire body (with signature core exercises and hand weights). Inspiring instructors, customised playlists and choreographed routines with a candlelit atmosphere will guide you through an invigorating fitness experience. It’s something you must try if you love music, dance and working out. See you on your bike!

READER OFFER

Via Augusta 10 (Diagonal) T. 93 541 3149 hello@love-cycle.com www.love-cycle.com

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Symmetry Pilates - PILATES

Tatiane Canário

Premium Pilates - NOT ‘get in, get knackered, get out!’ Unlike other forms of exercise, Pilates is targeted at those parts of the body where either correction – too long huddled over a computer for example – or strength is needed, as well as building up a strong core. People who do Pilates know it’s all about quality not quantity, so the benefit is felt after only a few sessions. So, sign up at this swanky new city-centre studio (yoga & physio also available) and enjoy a complimentary massage.

READER OFFER

Enric Granados 111 (entlo 2º) T. 93 531 3620 M. 637 693 073 info@symmetry.cat www.symmetry.cat

T. 93 217 3025 info@tatianecanario.com

Bikram Yoga - HOT YOGA

READER OFFER

Benedicte Taillard - HYPNOSIS, COACHING, Benedicte provides you with the tools for, and helps you make the changes you need to enjoy a healthy, purposeful and fulfilling life on a daily basis. She guides you through accomplishing your aspirations, and becoming your best self-help. M. 654 538 506 benedictetaillard@gmail.com www.reflexologybarcelona.com www.barcelonahipnoterapia.com

www.yogacongracia.com

Emma Axelsson - THERAPY & COACHING FOR SELF-ESTEEM & ANXIETY Emma is a certified therapist who helps you handle life’s ups and downs, specialising in self-esteem and anxiety-related issues. The first introductory session is free of charge. She also provides group therapy for self-esteem with new sessions starting in January 2017. Visit her website for more information. República Argentina 19, 08023 M. 685 837 223 em@owning-it.com www.owning-it.com

Creative Resilience - THERAPY AND COACHING

English-speaking, Australian-trained Chiropractor working in Barcelona, with 23 years of experience, who specialises in gentle, comfortable techniques. He has years of experience with back pain, neck pain, headaches, disc protrusions, and sciatica, but also with health and wellbeing. Emergencies on weekends

The oldest way of thinking about life and a different kind of therapy. Everybody is resilient, it’s just that sometimes we don’t feel it, or we just need a little time to get it back. Therapy and coaching for individuals, couples, parents and organisations. Psychologist qualified in London, Latin America and Barcelona.

Oliver Dawson - BORN CHIROPRACTIC Oliver Dawson is a chiropractor who focuses on the direct relationship between spinal structures and health. Through specific spinal realignment and structural correction, better neurological connections are established throughout the nervous system. The result is less pain, more vitality and better health. Call today. Sombrerers 27, Principal T. 93 268 3070 M. 622 772 623 oliver@bornquiro.com www.bornquiro.com

Canvis - PSYCHOLOGIST Canvis offers an international environment, where you can be assisted in English, German, Dutch, Italian, French, Spanish & Catalan. They provide psychological assessment and treatment to families, adults, adolescents and children. Their committed team can help you through difficult periods and guide you to emotional well-being. Free introduction session. M. 616 099 328 / 654 389 074 / T. 93 487 46 66 psicologia@canvis.net www.canvis.net

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READER OFFER

Georgina Weinstein - VOICE COACH Singing teacher, jazz vocalist and certified life coach, Georgina offers coaching for people looking to enhance their vocal skills for both singing and public speaking. Her combination of skills and experience help clients boost their confidence while preparing a repertoire, a presentation, or improving their diction. Classes are available in Spanish and English. M. 626 255 792 info@georginaweinstein.com www.georginaweinstein.com

Stefan Becker - CHIROPRACTOR

Caponata 3, 08034. M. 646 684 402 Info@sarriaquiropractica.com www.sarriaquiropractica.com

READER OFFER

Bikram Yoga have two centres in Barcelona with over 50 classes a week and options for children. Providing the ideal solution for back pain, stress, weight loss and other problems, they offer international staff and more than 18 years’ experience. Reader offer: €25 for 10 days of unlimited yoga. Pau Claris 97, PRAL, 08009, T. 93 302 5130 Caravel•la la Niña 18, 08017, T. 93 205 0281 www.bikramyoga.es

YogaconGracia - YOGA An enchanting neighbourhood studio and community space with two locations in the heart of Gràcia. Founded in 2004, you will find a friendly, international vibe in the gorgeous loft-style studios. YcG has something for everyone, from Hatha, Sivananda, Kundalini, Jivamukti (a fast-paced vinyasa) to English, pre-natal and Mum and Baby yoga classes.

REFLEXOLOGY, MASSAGE

READER OFFER

- PILATES

Pilates and muscle activation in a beautiful, fully equipped studio in Gracia, run by Pilates professionals with more than 15 years of experience. Classes available for individuals and pairs, first class is free. Bring this ad and receive a 10% discount when you sign up for the first 3 months.

Janeth Solá - MASSAGE Janeth Solá Ayurveda Massage Therapies Centre offers treatment for back and joint pain, stress, fatigue, insomnia and Vata related disorders. This centre located in the Sants district is the ideal place for those looking to improve their physical health and state of mind, practise relaxation and receive nutritional advice and dietary coaching from an Ayurveda viewpoint. Galileo 82. Sants. M. 655 560 162 janethsola@gmail.com www.janethsola.com

READER OFFER

M. 698 370 552 jowilkie@creative-resilience.com www.creative-resilience.com

Jonathan Hooker - PSYCHOTHERAPIST Jonathan specialises in helping people to deal with change. This may be aspects of their life they would like to change or unexpected changes that they are dealing with. An English-speaking psychotherapist, counsellor, coach and guide, he helps people to improve their relationships and make sense of their lives. M. 639 579 646 jonathan.hooker@yahoo.com www.jonathanhooker.com

Uby Muñoz, Lic.Ac. - ACUPUNCTURE Trained in England, Uby has experience successfully treating a wide range of health problems including: allergies, arthritis, chronic pain, migraines, headaches, IBS, infertility, IVF, insomnia, back pain, menopause, stress and anxiety. Uby specialises in natural fertility treatments and women’s health. Casp 80, 1-3, 08010 M. 622 720 499 ubybcnwellwoman.com www.bcnwellwoman.com

Pharmacy Serra Mandri - CHEMIST The pharmacy is open 365 days a year and offers a home delivery service. The staff can help and advise each client to ensure they get exactly what they need. They also stock a great range of products, including homeopathy, natural medicine, aromatherapy and organic cosmetics. Av. Diagonal 478 T. 93 416 1270 9am-10pm www.farmaciaserra.com

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BUSINESS SERVICES

BCn Seguros - INSURANCE Local Barcelona Insurance Agency providing complete personal and business insurance services. (home, car, health, commercial, public liability, life, motor, yacht, travel, etc.) We offer a 30% cost-saving guarantee by keeping insurance coverage identical! Advice given in Spanish, English and German.

DISCOUNT FOR METROPOLITAN READERS

To advertise in this section call: 93 451 4486 or email: sales@barcelona-metropolitan.com See our online directory at

M. 636 465 010 rainerhobrack@gmail.com www.bcnseguros.es

www.barcelona-metropolitan.com Sánchez Molina -

Klev & vera - LAW FIRM

LEGAL PRACTICE

This firm specialises in attending the legal needs of international clients in Spain. They have multilingual team of lawyers with international backgrounds, specialising in different areas of legal practice including: • Real Estate • Business Set Up • Spanish Residence • Family Law • Litigation • Tax Planning

The lawyers at Sánchez Molina speak English, Spanish, Italian and French. They can help with your business licensing services, legal defence and representation, registration under any form of ownership, accounting services and work and residency permits.

Gran Via Carles III, 84, 5 Metro: Maria Cristina (L3) T. 93 490 9669 javiergarcia@sanchezmolina.com www.sanchezmolina.com

Spain Accounting-

READER OFFER

Valencia 281, 2-2 T. 93 176 0190 info@klevvera.com www.klevvera.com

Geo Mac - COMPUTERS

TAX & BUSINESS SERVICES Qualified UK accountant with 30 years experience in Spain offers: • tax services for freelance “autónomos” and small SLs • income tax returns for employees and non-residents • practical advice on setting up a business in Spain • registration of “autónomos” and company incorporation (SL) • personalised advice on your tax obligations in Spain • fast, reliable email service Contact David Cook on M.678 702 369 info@spainaccounting.com www.spainaccounting.com

Barcelona Women’s network - BUSINESS

Supported charities 2014 - 2016

• Barcelona’s premier network for international women • Over 200 members from 30+ countries. • As a social club that supports local charities and offers a business network, activities include social gatherings, cultural outings, volunteer opportunities, and business seminars. We help women thrive and feel at home in Barcelona.

membership@bcnwomensnetwork.com

president@bcnwomensnetwork.com www.bcnwomensnetwork.com

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George Cowdery is a freelance Mac technician who has been providing valuable support to the Mac community in Barcelona for over 15 years. Among the services he offers, George can help clients with maintenance and upgrades, hard drive replacement and ADSL setup. He can also provide consulting and tutorials according to his clients’ needs.

M. 606 308 932 machelp@geomac.es www.geomacbcn.com

BArCelOnA OFFICe SERVICED OFFICE SPACE Barcelona Office is a street-level premises by the Gothic Cathedral. In contrast to many coworking spaces, they focus on long-term professionals and companies who need a disturbance-free space with their own desk and storage facilities, along with their own key for 24 hour, seven days a week access. The space is open-plan and fully furnished. They provide: desk, chair, under-desk cabinet, shelving, fiber optic wireless internet connection, laser printers, photocopy, scanner, shared meeting area with sofa and 40 inch television for presentations. M. 677 738 860 info@barcelonaoffice.com www.barcelonaoffice.com

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cardy.adventures@gmail.com

Mrs.Q design Studio -

NEW

website

www.mrsqdesignstudio.com

CAREER COACHING

Mrs.Q Design Studio offers a range of specialised design services. Their small business package includes branding, stationery design and advertising for print and web. They also design promotional material such as flyers, posters and brochures. Mrs. Q specialises in bespoke invitations for weddings and special occasions. Visit her Etsy shop to view her work www.etsy.com/shop/ MrsQdesignstudio.

M. 699 260 938 mrsqdesignstudio@gmail.com www.mrsqdesignstudio.com Instagram #mrsqdesignstudio

Coaching services for global-minded professionals who want to take their career (and life!) to the next level. Find clarity, purpose and focus, and create your ideal work-life balance. Develop confidence, leverage your strengths and unique value proposition, communicate effectively and increase your opportunities! First consultation free of charge.

CALL FOR A FREE CONSULTATION

M. 619 022 676 stepupwithv@gmail.com www.stepupwithv.com

Garment Printing - BUSINESS

Coral - SPANISH TEACHER

Garment Printing is a printing company based in Barcelona and the UK. They offer printed clothing with personalised logos for fashion brands, staff uniforms and promotional clothing. Printed promotional products, such as flyers, business cards, printed pens, and banners are also available—anything you could want customised with a logo! Whether you’re a business or an individual, we can help you fulfil your branding and printing needs. Contact them today. Garment Printing

Reach a Spanish level that best fits your interests and needs! Coral is a native, experienced and highly-qualified teacher. Try her personalised courses, which use effective methods to make learning easy. All levels; private or small groups. For a private, 60-min class €25; 90-min class €35.

Roger De Flor 289 T. 93 393 8194 www.garmentprinting.es

Fábrica de Flyers - BUSINESS Fábrica de Flyers brings the successful concept of high class printing and design to Barcelona at competitive prices and provides a quality service to match. Eight years of experience on the German market made them one of the leading printing agencies, with clients all over Germany, Austria and Switzerland. Fábrica de Flyers is not an advertisment agency, but the best partner to create your publicity!

Pujades 74-80, 3º 7ª, 08005 T. 93 485 6422 info@fabricadeflyers.com www.fabricadeflyers.com

Mac in Barcelona COMPUTERS Stéphane Clément is an Apple technician and consultant with over fifteen years of experience. Anna Piqué, a native from Barcelona, assists Stéphane with her business and communication background. Their focus is on providing good service and installations with clear communicative skills and personal advice. The aim is to solve your computer troubles and teach you how to improve your daily use of your Mac and its various accessories, giving you an opportunity for a more pleasant and safer computer experience. MOB / Bailen 11, Bajos, 08010 M. 608 994 599 info@macinbarcelona.com www.macinbarcelona.com

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Step up With v -

GRAPHIC DESIGN

M. 676 249 744 coral@coralprada.com

Home Orden Frustrated with the mess in your home? Have no time? Don’t know where to start? Moving soon? Just moved in? My goal is to help you get your place in order and implement strategies to stay organised. We can work side by side or I can work alone, for a one off project or over a longer period according to your needs. FIRST CONSULATAION FREE

M. 625 204 328 stephanie@homeorden.com

CIBERVIRREINA - COMPUTER SERVICE Open until 11pm every day of the week, they can repair your computer in 24/48 hours using well-tested procedures. Repairing software and hardware failures, saving your personal files and returning your computer fully operative. In addition to having internet access they do printing, copying and binding jobs. D'Astúries 78 (Plaça de la Virreina, Gràcia). Metro L3 (Fontana) or L4 (Joanic) T. 93 368 5770 serviciocliente@cibervirreina.com

BritSat - SATELLITE TV Missing out on British TV? Not to worry. With our latest equipment, extensive experience and fantastic after-sales service, we provide all UK and European TV via satellite and Internet installations. So don’t miss out on all the summer sporting action, including Wimbledon, Euro ‘16 and the Rio Olympics. Phone or email Britsat for a competitive quote and expert advice. M. 649 605 917 info@britsatlive.com www.britsatlive.com

Ibex - INSURANCE SERVICES Ibex have been in operation since 2000 and have grown to be one of the largest insurance providers for the expatriate community in Spain, Portugal and Gibraltar, they can insure your car, motorbike, home, pet, health, holiday home, boat, travel, business and provide funeral plans and more. T. 90 010 2527 www.ibexinsure.com

AdvertISe BOtH Here And In Our OnlIne dIreCtOry FrOM €50/MOntH

For more details email: sales@Barcelona-Metropolitan.com

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Coccinelle - HOME SERVICES

Oak House - SCHOOL

Do you need a nanny, housekeeper or chauffeur? Coccinelle specialises in providing highly-skilled, experienced domestic staff in Barcelona and the surrounding areas. Due to their expertise and rigorous selection methods, they are able to provide seasoned professionals for both permanent or temporary positions to suit your needs. You can arrange everything now from the comfort of your own home! Call them today and quote Metropolitan free consultation.

Founded in 1968, pupils at Oak House are taught according to the UK national curriculum in early years and primary education. Secondary pupils follow a multilingual programme, with a firm emphasis on English. Oak House offers IGCSE qualifications to help prepare students for university courses in English. The school also offers the International Baccalaureate Diploma Programme in English, as well as the National Bachillerato programme. The school’s modern installations are conducive to an active learning style. Their motto is ‘building futures’.

T. 93 125 8626 info@coccinelle.es www.coccinelle.es

Sant Pere Claver 12-18, 08017 T. 93 252 40 20 www.oakhouseschool.com

nIe Barcelona

Corsa International

- BUSINESS

- DRIVING SCHOOL NIE Barcelona is a service that helps foreigners resolve all the paperwork needed for living and working in Barcelona. Their main focus is on helping to secure the NIE for EU and NON-EU citizens in a fast and efficient way. They can also help with other administrative procedures, such as social security numbers, empadronamiento, autónomo set up, and change of driving license or car registration.

Corsa driving school in Barcelona offers both theoretical classes and practical driving lessons in English. Their friendly and experienced instructors will give you the confidence to drive comfortably in the city and help you learn about Spanish road systems. They have both manual and automatic practice vehicles. Call now and ask about special Metropolitan reader offers!

Beethoven 16, Bajos, 08021 T. 93 200 3324

M. 603 209 403 info@niebarcelona.com www.niebarcelona.com

international@autoescuelacorsa.com

www.autoescuelacorsa.com www.facebook.com/CorsaInternational/

la dolce vita ITALIAN FASHION This new shop located in Born has exclusive Italian fashion (items of design, comfort, elegance and quality, made in Italy). They can offer advice on how to dress according to your figure and the occasion, highlighting your strengths to help you choose the most suitable clothes.

Ronda de Sant Pere 54 T. 93 518 4773 Metro: Urquinaona (L1 & L4) Arc de Triomf (L1) Facebook ladolcevitamodahombre Open Mon-Sat 10am-8pm

Handyman - HOME SERVICES Mark offers honest, transparent, efficient, English/Spanish/Swedish speaking handyman services. He can help you hang a mirror, paint a room, install reverse osmosis, hang blinds or curtains, do home repairs, assemble Ikea furniture and he can even fix up your place so you can get your “fianza” back from your landlord. Hourly rates. Real time updates.

M. 645 691 475 mark@handymanbarcelona.com www.handymanbarcelona.com Facebook handymanbarcelona74

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BCn l.I.P. - LANGUAGE SCHOOL BCN LIP language school is a small school located in the heart of the Gothic Quarter offering a wide variety of dynamic classes for those wishing to learn Spanish, Catalan, English, French, German, Portuguese, Russian, Italian, Japanese, Chinese and Hebrew. The courses are intensive and extensive, varying from 4 - 30 hours a week, Monday to Saturday. The teachers are qualified native speakers, with several years of experience. They also offer specialised summer programmes, excursions and cultural activities for the students. They can also help you with your student visa and finding a place to live.

Avinyó 50, 08002 T. 93 318 6591 info@bcnlip.com www.bcnlip.com

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JOB

DIRECTORY To advertise in this section call: 93 451 4486 or email: ads@barcelona-metropolitan.com We also have a new job section on our FREE CLASSIFIEDS

www.classifieds.barcelona-metropolitan.com

COACHING COLUMN SAM SAYS... CONDUCT A POSTMORTEM ON THE PAST YEAR Dear Sam, Before every New Year I write in my journal. I reflect on what went well that year and jot down what I’d like to accomplish for the year to come. As I went to write my entry for 2017, I re-read last year’s notes and realised that I hadn’t accomplished what I’d set out to do. I know it’s not always possible to tick every goal off the list, but I found myself writing the same things over again for 2017 that I’d written for 2016. It kind of freaked me out because it made me feel like I hadn’t made any headway over the last 12 months. I actually felt like I’d gone in reverse. I know you can’t change the past, but if I’m writing a similar entry for 2018 I’m going to be seriously depressed. If you have any advice on how to make this year different than the last, one where I actually accomplish my goals, I’d really appreciate it. Groundhog Year Dear Groundhog Year, Well firstly, happy New Year! However you might feel about last year’s achievements—or lack thereof—the beauty of December 31st rolling into January 1st is that, in a way, it allows us to wipe the slate clean every 365 days. On that note, you’re right in that I can’t turn back the clock, however I can offer up a few suggestions so that you make some headway in the coming year. Here are some ideas to consider: 1. Conduct a post-mortem on your previous year. The first thing that came to mind when reading your question was: ‘I wonder what it was that prevented her from accomplishing what she’d set out to do in 2016?’ I’m a strong believer that when we really want to do something, we generally do it, and so I challenge you to ask yourself a few questions about last year’s list: Were your goals things that you genuinely wanted to do or things that you felt you ‘needed’ to do or ‘should’ be doing? And, what criteria is used for what makes it onto the list in the first place? For example, are general ideas put onto the list, things you’ve floated around in your head, or do they need to be more hashed out? Are the things on the list doable in the span of a year or do they need to be broken down into more ‘digestible chunks’? When goals are too large they can scare us instead of entice us to complete them. 2. Recognise what you did accomplish. Take out a blank sheet of paper and create a new list entitled ‘What did I gain from 2016?’ Just because you didn’t complete the things you originally set out to do doesn’t mean that you walked away empty handed. You might have accomplished several other feats, or come to other realisations that were valuable in their own right. In other words, your priorities, interests, passions and overall goals might not be the same or they may have taken on a different meaning over the past 12 months. 3. Determine which life patterns no longer serve you. Sometimes the ‘systems’ that we have in place need to be revamped. Take a look at how you work, where you work, how you prioritise and when you’re most productive. There might be items on last year’s list that you genuinely wanted to do but you didn’t get around to because you didn’t have the proper systems in place to maximise productivity and efficiency. Take a step back and look at your weekly schedule, where you’re spending your time and how you’re spending it, and ask yourself what’s one small thing that can be adjusted to allow for more time and energy to focus on the things that matter most to you? It doesn’t need to be a massive transformation as small shifts can have a big impact. There’s a book by renowned coach and speaker Marshall Goldsmith called What got you here won’t get you there (http://jamesclear.com/book-summaries/whatgot-you-here-wont-get-you-there). It’s a great resource about how even the most successful people sometimes need to change their ways in order to continue achieving the best results.

Sam Mednick is a professional Life and Executive Coach based in Barcelona (www. blueprintcoaching.ca). A Canadian native, she’s been living in the city for eight years, working with companies as well as individuals, focusing on transitions, communication, leadership training, time management and productivity, as well as emotional intelligence development. For more coaching tips, tune into her Podcast: blueprintcoaching.podomatic.com

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12/19/16 1:37 PM


INTERVIEW

Lawrence Wolfgang Beck SCULPTOR, AUSTRALIA, 74 BY AMINAH BARNES

enough to have directed or assisted in symposiums all over the world, including China, Córdoba and Australia, and have even taken a group of artists to the base camp of Mount Everest. My father worked as a professor in Syria for over 10 years, so I became acquainted with the country fairly well, too. I love Syria, and its people have always impressed me. Last April, I travelled to Greece to work in a refugee camp and began drawing the faces of Syrian families. I firmly believe in drawing over photography to capture the essence of the subject, as people have two eyes and the camera only has one. They were inquisitive about my work and people passing by offered me water and tea as I sketched. The refugee situation in Europe is shameful. It is impossible to sculpt from photographs. The best way to sculpt is from real life. There is something organic that comes across when you sculpt someone or something as they sit in front of you, like a biological connection between the sculptor and his subject. One of my favourite sculptors is Rodin, who uses the human body as his stimulus. He focuses on the way the body mirrors a symphony orchestra in the simplest of movements, accounting for the incredible makeup of humans and animals. This is something you can’t find in still, two-dimensional photographs.

By Ben Rowdon

SCOOP

Although my family name is Beck, Lawrence Gundabooka is the name I prefer to go by. Gundabooka is a fabulous rock painting site in Australia, and I adopted the name for my aboriginal grandmother who I have a lot of affection for. I was born in Sydney, which is where my career began after casually enrolling in a sculpting night course when I was 17. The course and my professor were both fantastic, training me to think threedimensionally in a similar way to architects or engineers. I immediately realised I was born a sculptor. Shortly before settling in Spain in 1999, I spent some time in Paris. I was to meet up with a Polish sculptor there. However, upon arrival, I was stopped at French customs and questioned about the sculptures I was carrying in my duffel bag. They were determined to charge me for bringing my work into the country, but I came up with a story about having to present them to the French president as part of an upcoming project for a new bridge in Paris. After letting me into the country free of charge, my Polish friend informed me that my fib about building a new bridge was in fact true, and before long I was commissioned to produce several sculptures that would be erected along the Seine. Unfortunately, a new president was elected in 1995, and plans for the bridge didn’t go ahead. Despite this, I was able to hold several exhibitions of my work in Paris: a city that truly appreciates and invests in impressive sculptures and artwork, without hesitation. Barcelona was also appealing to me, with many great artists and architects having created work throughout the city. However, despite its reputation and prominence in the art world, many of the works I’ve sold here were to international travellers rather than locals. While it is quite difficult to find commissioned projects and funding here, I have been fortunate in my experience and have held several exhibitions. I’ve also met many wonderful people. I spent some time in Sant Antoni de Vilamajor, where I met a shepherd, for instance. He had such an interesting face that I couldn’t help but sculpt it. I gave him the finished piece to display in his yard. Shortly after, he passed away and the sculpture was then bought by the Ajuntament and reconstructed in the village. I also met one of the most interesting sculptors here, Rocio Sanchez Egoavil from Peru, who reminds us that some of the best sculptors in the world are women. Sculpting is one of the few disciplines where women are as prominent as men and acknowledged for their work. Rocio was only a student when I met her, yet she had the talent of someone who’d been sculpting for an entire career. We’ve worked on several projects together since, and she has been a great source of motivation for my work. My travels have also inspired me in many ways. I’ve been fortunate

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Barcelona Metropolitan Issue 240  
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