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FREE GIFT! 6MM TUNISIAN HOOK INSPIRING PROJECTS for Creative Crocheters

insidecrochet.co.uk MAKE IN A WEEKEND

GRANNY COOL Simple shawl in stylish shades

ADORABLE AMIGURUMI

PLAYING DRESS UP

EXPERT TIPS & TRICKS

How to crochet Your complete guide

19 GORGEOUS PATTERNS

WINTER WARMERS Snuggle up with cosy cardies and toasty accessories

Great gift for a special child

EASY RAISED STITCHES

TEXTURED SCARF Unisex design he'll love

TAPESTRY CROCHET

EGG-CELLENT IDEA Quirky clutch in pure cotton

EASY UPCYCLING

COVER UP! Smarten up an old stool today

BABY BLANKET ❤ GADGET COSIES ❤ CUTE KIDS’ HAT IC#83_01[cover]SP3RD2.indd 1

totally tunisian

Use your free gift with this glam top £5.99 ISSUE 83 83

9 772040 105014

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Purplelinda Crafts

Love to Crochet

Snuggle up with a Mermaid Tail Blanket this Winter! Made in Sirdar Hayfield Chunky with Wool.

Visit us online for the largest selections of Crochet Supplies in the UK

www.purplelindacrafts.co.uk IC83_IFC.indd 1

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PO Box 6337, Bournemouth BH1 9EH Subscription enquiries t. +44 (0)1202 586848 chris@tailormadepublishing.co.uk

Meet the team Editor Rhian Drinkwater rhian@tailormadepublishing.co.uk Group Managing Editor Sarah Moran sarah@tailormadepublishing.co.uk Styling & Photoshoot Editor Claire Montgomerie claire@tailormadepublishing.co.uk Technical Editors Rachel Atkinson, Jane Czaja, Claire Montgomerie, Rachel Vowles Sub Editor Vicky Guerrero Online Marketing Executive Adrian Lito adrian@tailormadepublishing.co.uk Contributors Rachel Atkinson, Annelies Baes, San Bee for Loopsan, Bianca Boonstra, Ashley Cramp, Emma Du, Vicky Guerrero, Ashley Leither, Anna Meliksetyan, Claire Montgomerie, Irina Palczynski, Helda Panagary, Emma Potter, Red Sparrow Crochet, Sarah Reed, Jenny Reid, Twinkle Design Co-op, Emma Varnam, Cassie Ward, Lindy Zubairy Models John Bassam, Greta Heggarty, Freya McIvor, Frankie Moore, Yasmin Ryan Photography Jason Masters, Kirsten Mavric, Rebecca Mothersole, Lucy Williams Hair and make-up Nicki Henbrey Design Stephanie Peat Ad Production Leila Schmitz Main cover image Lucy Williams Small cover images Kirsten Mavric, Rebecca Mothersole, Lucy Williams

Publishing Publisher Tim Harris

Group Advertising Manager Jennie Ayres jennie@tailormadepublishing.co.uk Advertising Manager Sophie Bunch sophie@tailormadepublishing.co.uk t. +44 (0)7798 526070 Circulation Manager Tim Harris Production Manager John Beare IT Manager Vince Jones Subscriptions Manager Chris Wigg (See page 54 for subscription details) Published by Tailor Made Publishing Ltd PO Box 6337, Bournemouth BH1 9EH t. +44 (0)1202 586848 Printed by Precision Colour Printing Haldane, Halesfield 1 Telford, Shropshire TF7 4QQ t. +44 (0)1952 585585 ©Tailor Made Publishing Ltd 2016 All rights reserved. No part of this magazine, or digital versions of the magazine, may be used, reproduced, copied or resold without written permission of the publisher. All information and prices, as far as we are aware, are correct at the time of going to press but are subject to change. Tailor Made Publishing Ltd cannot accept any responsibility for errors or inaccuracies in such information. Unsolicited artwork, manuscripts or designs are accepted on the understanding that Tailor Made Publishing Ltd incur no liability for their storage or return. Free gifts are available only with print editions, not with digital editions of the magazines. Tailor Made Publishing Ltd accepts no liability for products and services offered by third parties.

Welcome With darker nights now creeping in, I’ve been stocking up on thick woolly jumpers and cosy cardigans – and I think Annelies Baes’s gorgeous Cremosa Cardigan might have to sneak its way up my “To Hook” list! While Jenny Reid’s pretty Katherine Top, worked in a gradient of grey to pink, is just the thing to pull on when the temperature starts to drop and snuggle up under on the sofa. I’m also tempted by Ashley Cramp’s glorious Argyle Basket, perfect to tidy away the growing pile of yarn at the side of my seat… Christmas is also fast approaching, which means it’s time to start thinking about what presents I want to crochet this year. I think the adorable Fred Mouse would be the perfect treat for any young child, while the Olivia Shawl and Gentlemen’s Scarf would make great his-and-hers gifts for relatives. We’ve also included a few projects which are ideal for making with this issue’s free gift, a Tunisian crochet hook. If you’re after a simple pattern for practising the technique, try Sarah Reed’s colourful gadget cosies, while if you’re tempted by something a little more challenging, then take a look at Lindy Zubairy’s glamorous Starlight Sweater, just the thing for any upcoming office parties. And if you’re not sure where to begin with Tunisian crochet, then turn to page 24 for our step-by-step introduction to the stitches. Happy crocheting…

page

46

Rhian Drinkwater, Editor

www.pinterest.com/insidecrochet www.facebook.com/insidecrochet @insidecrochet www.insidecrochet.co.uk 03

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11

CONTENTS ISSUE 83

46 14 Hook Rachel Atkinson’s colourwork cowl

60

NEWS & REVIEWS

FEATURES

06 IN THE LOOP

14 CONFESSIONS OF A PATTERN COLLECTOR

Check out cute makes for baby, new lines from Paintbox Yarns, and save 25% on tickets for the Country Living Christmas Fair! Plus, plan yarny days out with our diary dates.

09 YARN REVIEWS Discover fabulous new yarns this month including the sheepy Dovestone Natural Aran, a hardwearing King Cole striping yarn and a Sirdar acrylic with sparkly glass beads.

11 OFF THE HOOK Make a statement with bright, playful accessories and gorgeous homewares.

12 BOOK REVIEWS Cute animals by Emma Varnam, Amanda Perkins’ rainbow blankets, undyed wool from The Crochet Project plus Celtic cables.

07

Rachel Atkinson is fascinated by the vibrant colourwork patterns in her vintage collection, inspiring her to design a pretty cowl to keep away winter chills.

24 TUNISIAN CROCHET BASICS Can’t wait to try out this issue’s great cover gift? Read our essential guide to learn about different hooks, then get to grips with the forward and return pass and Tunisian simple stitch. You’ll soon be ready to hook our sweet gadget cosies and glam Starlight Sweater.

11

98 FINAL THOUGHT West Sussex designer Jenny Reid takes time out of her busy crochet schedule to chat to us about her passion for luxury fibres, favourite techniques and crafting at university.

04 Inside Crochet

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Make it

Patterns in this issue

38 Cremosa Cardigan

42 Starlight Sweater

46 Katherine Dress

48 Tapestry Necklace

50 Gentleman’s Scarf

51 Elegant Evening Bag

56 Egg Clutch

59 Olivia Shawl

60 Peacock Blanket

62 Gadget Cosies

64 Stool Cover

66 Ellen the Elephant

70 Fox Headgear

72 Fred Mouse

77 Boho Baby Cardigan

MASTERCLASS Try out your free gift with our stylish patterns and guide to Tunisian stitches. PAGE 24

06

12

REGULARS 54 SUBSCRIPTIONS Have every issue delivered direct to your door, plus choose between two great pattern books – yours free when you subscribe today!

58 BACK ISSUES Only just discovered us? Or missed that must-hook pattern? Head here to fill the gaps in your collection.

SUBSCRIBE TODAY Save money every month with an Inside Crochet subscription. Turn to page 54 for details

65 NEXT ISSUE We’ve got a whole host of colourful projects lined up to keep you busy and bright this Christmas.

89 HOW TO CROCHET Not sure how to start? Turn here for our guide to chains, doubles, trebles and more, sponsored by Stylecraft.

84 Argyle Basket

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News etc

IN THE LOOP BLOGS | BOOKS | REVIEWS | EVENTS | INTERVIEWS

FA B F OXG L OV E S ! ➻ For a surefire pep-me-up you can’t beat Amanda Perkins’ gorgeous, vibrant designs and her latest collection, a bright trio of blankets, is inspired by Countisbury Hill and the tall foxgloves near her Exmoor home. All three designs use the same motifs and layout, with a zig-zag representing the flower spikes. The difference is in the colour placement. Foxgloves 1 celebrates the pinks and purples of the flowers, Foxgloves 2 blends from sunset orange to wintry dark green to reflect the hill at different times and seasons, while Foxgloves 3 evokes rainbows across the Bristol Channel. £4.80, or £9.60 for three. www.ravelry.com

[ S H O P S W E LOV E ]

Bibelot ➻ You’ll get a super-friendly welcome from Sophie and Liz at Bibelot, in Leek, Staffordshire. Here you’ll find Stylecraft and Drops yarn in a fantastic array of colours, plus patterns, crochet kits, books, hooks, lots for sewers and knitters, plus homewares, accessories (including Cath Kidston bags), toys, cards and gifts. “We think people are drawn to our shop because we try and make it a really inspiring space by presenting all our products in a beautiful, quirky way,” says Sophie. Why not join one of their workshops to make something lovely, or their crafty natter group? Catch up with the girls at www.facebook.com/ bibelotshop. www.bibelot.co.uk

[BABY GIFTS]

We Love

Soft and snuggly ➻ Looking for ideas for a newborn? Why not hook one of these sweet blankets from Ilaria Chiaratti, an Italian designer living in the Netherlands? “Baby blankets have a special place in my heart and they are also quite fast to make,” she says. Choose from beautiful, lacy filet designs, a cheerful, colourful ripple motif in double crochet, or a light grey blanket with subtle stripes. “The stitch is simple, but the colour combination makes it interesting and suitable for baby boys and girls,” says Illaria. She also has the cutest little white sweater with clouds and raindrops in different shades of blue, ideal for 3–6 months – we just wish we could fit into it too! The patterns come in English and Ilaria uses Annell wool, cotton and acrylic yarns which you can buy at www.idayarnshop.com. Pattern pdfs £5.44, www.idalifestyle.etsy.com

C O U N T R Y L I V I N G C H R I S T M A S FA I R S ➻ Get Christmas-ready and stock up with decorations, treats from regional food producers, stocking fillers, gorgeous table accessories and gifts, all at the Country Living Magazine Christmas Fairs. Plus, get tips from the experts on beautiful wrapping, adding sparkle to your table and planning your menu! London The Business Design Centre, Islington, N1, 9–13 November 2016. Glasgow The SECC, Glasgow, G3 8YW, 17–20 November 2016. Harrogate Harrogate International Centre, Kings Road, HG1 5LA, 1–4 December 2016. Save 25% when you buy advance tickets instead of at the door with this special offer. London: Quote code CL16XL2 (tickets £13 instead of £18). Glasgow: Quote code CL16XS (tickets £10 instead of £13.50). Harrogate: Quote code CL16XH (tickets £10 instead of £13.50). Tickets must be booked by 1pm on the day before the visit. Call 0844 581 1385. www.countrylivingfair.com

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IN THE LOOP

News etc

DIARY ✽ 5–6 NOVEMBER

STITCHFEST Visit this new yarn festival in the pretty market town of Totnes, Devon, bringing together 30 independent makers selling goodies from hand-dyed yarn and fibre to crochet accessories. Plus, join workshops on spinning, dyeing and weaving. Hosted by Social Fabric, a contemporary craft shop in Totnes. 10am–6pm Saturday, 10am–4pm Sunday, tickets £4.50. www.stitchfest.co.uk

[ N E W YA R N ]

Playful palette

✽ 5–6 NOVEMBER

YARNPORIUM

➻ Modern and playful are the buzzwords for a brand new launch, Paintbox Yarns, which you can buy exclusively through www.lovecrochet.com and www.loveknitting.com. Launching with four new lines, choose from the durable and practical DK, aran and chunky acrylics in a breathtaking 60 shades, or a value cotton DK in no fewer than 56 shades. With such an extensive selection, you’ll be hard pressed not to find the perfect colour for your project! You can download free crochet patterns too, from Harriet the Hedgehog and Lola the Ladybird to Bobby the Bee and Caitlin the Caterpillar. With six adorable characters in total, why not make the full menagerie – they’d make sweet gifts for little ones. Plus, look out for the cute Morning Dew Cardigan for babies, and elegant Night Breeze Shawl for your next party. Simply DK, Aran and Chunky £2.25, Cotton DK £2.40 a ball, www.lovecrochet.com

W E LOV E … This chunky neon flat braid necklace, crocheted in a washable T-shirt yarn by Cambridge-based Kate Constable. Ties at the back so you can wear it long or short. Check out the other bright colours too! £6, www.lanaboushop.etsy.com

✽ 12 NOVEMBER

FESTIWOOL At this yarn and wool fair at Hitchin in Hertfordshire you’ll find 50 independent designers, spinners, dyers and craftspeople, with demonstrations and talks. 10am–5pm, tickets £5 in advance, £7.50 on the door. www.festiwool.com

✽ 24–27 NOVEMBER

THE KNITTING & STITCHING SHOW This annual crafting fest heads to Harrogate. Packed with over 300 exhibitors, workshops (from goldwork and arm knitting to granny squares and simple tassels) and more. Tickets from £14.50 in advance. www.theknittingandstitching show.com

[ N E W YA R N ]

WORKSHOPS

Dare to dazzle!

✽ 1, 8 & 13 NOVEMBER

➻ It’s always fun to add a hint of glitz to your wardrobe, Christmas or not! The new Wendy Celeste DK yarn is a real winner. Soft and feminine, it’s a gentle blend of 39% acrylic/35% polyester/ 13% mohair/13% wool, with tiny sparkling sequins threaded through the yarn like little stars – it’ll give a subtle shimmer to a wrap, shawl, hat, cardigan or sweater, so you can glam up your outfit day or night! There are two crochet and nine knitting patterns accompanying the yarn, including a sweet crochet cardigan and sleeveless top, which would pair perfectly with a diaphanous skirt. Wendy Celeste DK, £2.80 per 50g ball; patterns £3. www.tbramsden.co.uk

Don’t Miss!

King’s College, London is hosting this show with over 40 exhibitors. Workshops (£60) include crochet for knitters with Joanne Scrace and photographing your pieces with Kat Goldin. 10am–5.30pm Saturday, 10am –4pm Sunday, tickets £8 in advance. www.yarninthecity.com

LEARN TO CROCHET Learn the basics by creating a beautiful bag over three sessions with Amanda Jones. Join granny squares together and learn how to do some simple shaping. 6–7.30pm, £65 incl. materials. www.ayarnstory.co.uk

✽ SATURDAY 19 NOVEMBER

TAPESTRY CROCHET COSY Improvers can join Holly in Sherborne and make a tapestry crochet mug cosy – they’re quick to hook and make great gifts! 10–12am, £19.50 incl. materials (please bring a 4mm hook). www.theslippedstitch.co.uk

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We Love

[CAREERS]

CROCHET ENTREPRENEURS We chat to Maaike van Koert about rising to the challenge – and her stunning blankets! www.creJJtion.com

[CROCHET KITS]

Woodland friend

Images © Juju Vail

➻ Dorset-based Hawthorn Handmade create the cutest animal amigurumi crochet kits, and this adorable red squirrel, standing 25cm/10in high, is the perfect pal for autumn. The kit has everything you need, including a crochet guide, pattern, yarn, a 3.5mm hook, a bent tapestry needle for seaming and plenty of stuffing. Plus felting wool and a felting needle to add his oh-socute features. Look out for the sweet fox, hare, owl and badger too! £32.95, www.hawthornhandmade.com

[ N E W YA R N ]

Blue beauty ➻ Cosy up with Kettle Yarn Co’s luxurious new yarn, Baskerville. In three shades of blue (Umbra, Eventide and Dusk) and a heathered light grey (Dawn), this 2-ply blends British Gotland and Exmoor Blueface, with a hint of shimmering silk. The spun worsted is lightly twisted giving an airy warmth, with combed fibres for strength and softness. Kat Goldin’s beautiful end-to-end Yealm shawl is part of the moors-inspired Dawn To Dusk Baskerville collection. “I love the way there are streams and rivulets threaded through the landscape,” says Kat. “The colour of the wool and the ripples pair perfectly to create that feel.” Yealm, £3, www.ravelry.com; Baskerville yarn £24/100g, and Dawn To Dusk collection, £14, www.kettleyarnco.co.uk

Maaike van Koert lives with her husband, one-year-old baby girl and chocolate labrador in a village in the south of the Netherlands, between fields and an old market square. She sells her crochet patterns on Etsy and Ravelry. It was a happy combination of events that led Maaike to crochet in 2010. She had learnt to knit and wanted to make scallop edges for her shawls; her mother suggested crochet, then some friends asked her along to a crochet course. “I didn’t get it for the first three lessons and almost threw it out the window!” Maaike says. Luckily, she persevered, crocheting on her commute to her job as a strategy consultant. She also started blogging to keep a diary of her creative attempts and find like-minded people. Then in 2011 she and her husband moved to Toronto, Canada. When Maaike couldn’t find a job, she kept blogging and soon got requests for her designs. In 2012 she opened her Etsy shop, with support from a local women’s club. Two years later, Maaike moved back to the Netherlands for her husband’s job. A blogging friend, Annemarie Benthem (www.annemarieshaakblog.blogspot. co.uk) introduced her to a publisher, and Maaike wrote her first book, Puur Haken. By the following year she was selling her patterns on Ravelry. Maaike finds inspiration for her gorgeous, fresh colour combinations from different countries, flowers and nature, as well as in fabric and wallpaper patterns, while her ideas for structures and techniques come from the yarn itself.

“I always have the feeling a certain yarn wants to ‘become’ something!” she says. One of Maaike’s most popular designs is her colourful, stripy Miami Beach blanket. “There’s a certain rhythm to the design that is just so addictive!” she says. “It makes you want to see the next colour, so they finish pretty quickly too.” Her stylish Beautiful Blanket is another fastselling design. “I didn’t quite expect that success, since it’s done in one colour. But people love it, just like me and my family.” With her husband often away for work, Maaike juggles the household and business, and when her little girl is in daycare three afternoons a week, she’s a whirlwind of activity. “I work on my designs, books, magazine contributions, answer emails, prepare dinner, mop floors and change laundry loads!” Like many designers, Maaike rises to the challenges. “Deadlines are my friend and my enemy! I love to work on new designs more than I like to write them down… so my productivity spikes when deadlines approach. Stress makes my sugars go up and down like a yo-yo – I am diabetic Type 1.” However, Maaike loves the free time when the deadlines have passed, and the ability to plan her own work makes her more relaxed. “The best part is my freedom,” she says. So what’s next for Maaike? “We are moving house. I have just finished my third book, the first one in English, to be published in January 2017. And I will be releasing new patterns on Ravelry and Etsy – at least two shawls and a blanket – which I am very excited about too!”

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[ YA R N R E V I E W ]

Add to your stash

YARNS WE LOVE

IN THE LOOP

Yarn Reviews

[QUESTION TIME]

W E A SK ED OU R R E A DER S…

WORDS RHIAN DRINKWATER

Have you started crocheting Christmas presents yet?

Dovestone Natural Aran New for AW 2016, this 100% British wool yarn from Baa Ram Ewe is a beautifully sheepy blend perfect for hardwearing pieces. It comes in five undyed shades ranging from creams to browns, ideal for gradient or colourwork projects. It’s quite fine for an aran weight and has a coarse, hairy feel to work with, but works up into a non-scratchy fabric with a lovely drape.

Don’t forget, we are now offering a free one-year subscription to Inside Crochet for our favourite response, so send us your comments! 50% Bluefaced Leicester/25% Wensleydale Longwool/25% Dark Brown Masham 100g/170m/185yds £14 from www.baaramewe.co.uk

Paintbox Yarns Simply Aran Part of the new Paintbox Yarns line-up, this soft aran-weight acrylic comes in more than 60 colours including brights, neons and neutrals. It’s got a round, even handle and works up into satisfyingly plump stitches, with great stitch definition. Simply Aran is also available in ten-colour packs containing complementary colours.

➻ Vivienne White: No, but I’ve made a list of things to make everyone. Should be finished by Christmas… 2020! 100% acrylic • 100g/184m/201yds £2.25 from www.lovecrochet.com

70% acrylic/30% glass bead 50g/100m/109yds £4.99 from www.purplelindacrafts.co.uk

King Cole Cotswold Chunky This colourful, chunky yarn has a silky feel and is made up of two plies with slowly changing colours, creating a striping effect over the fabric as you work. It hooks up quickly into a soft, hardwearing fabric. There are eight colourways ranging from this pink/purple/green to a cream/brown/ grey and a gorgeous set of shades of blue.

➻ Jayne Stumbles: All done, just to be wrapped up in pretty paper… bring it on! ➻ Danielle Grattan-Kane: Yes, I’ve started. Left it too late last year so needed to start earlier.

Sirdar Moonstone This fine, aran-weight acrylic comes with a sparkly twist – pretty glass beads dotted along its length. It’s a fluffy, fuzzy yarn that creates a beautifully even fabric with little stitch definition. The beads are easy to work with but can end up at the back as you work, so if you are working in the round you may prefer to work inside out. It’s available in six jewel-toned shades.

WINNER! SHARON HARMAN CHEEK ➻ If I waited until October to start making gifts for Christmas, none would ever get made. I make items for gifting throughout the year, that way there is no end of year rush, no stress, and it’s all fun. (Great planning Sharon! Inside Crochet team)

80% acrylic/20% wool • 100g/130m/142yds £3.99 from www.wool4less.co.uk

➻ Sarah Pitt: I haven’t started crocheting for Christmas yet, but I have started the (cough cough) essential pre Christmas stash stock-up. It’d be a tragedy to run out of yarn mid-gift! ➻ Marsha Lavoie: Oh yes! I have already finished two scarves, a shawlette and a shawl for daughters-in-law and sister. I have a vest pattern I plan to crochet for my daughter. I still need to figure out something to crochet for my sons - maybe a hat for one and something related to Arsenal for my other son. And then there’s my newborn grandson… maybe a cardigan for him. ➻ Lori Brown: Are you kidding???? I started in January!

Bergère de France Filomèche A roving style, single-spun yarn from French yarn company Bergère de France, Filomèche has a high wool content that is combined with synthetics for an easycare finish, and is machine washable on a gentle wash setting. It is quite a “hairy” yarn but has a very smooth, even feel and works up into a soft fabric great for cosy winter jumpers and accessories.

FOL L OW!

44% wool/34% acrylic/22% polyamide 50g/60m/66yds £3.95 from www.bergeredefrance.co.uk

Head to the Facebook page of vibrant crochet blog Attic24 for inspirational pictures, tutorial links, scenic photos and lots and lots of colour ! We dare you to resist Lucy’s lovely bla nket designs… www.facebook.com/at tic24

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Blog

WE LOVE [ ACC E S S O R I E S ]

Dreaming of… ➻ Enjoy some mindfulness while planning the colour combos for your next projects, with designer Clare Trowbridge’s lovely new Crochet Dreams Colouring Book. The book features 24 of our all-time favourite patterns, from granny stripes and ripples to hexagons, granny squares and spike stitches. The pages are printed on super-thick recycled paper so you can use markers, glue or paints, and the designs are printed single-sided with room to add personal notes and yarn snippets. Plus, the book is spiral bound, so it lies flat – hooray! £12.99, www.littleconkers.co.uk

[ N E W TO C R O C H E T ]

Getting hooked Beginner crocheter Caroline Bawn continues her crochet journey… ➻ “This month I finished Terry Kimbrough’s Vintage Lace Blanket from issue 66. I tried to get the lacy edging right but in the end crocheted my own simpler edging. It is worked in Purely Gorgeous Falklands Merino Aran and is so soft and light, it’s dreamy! “I had done about three quarters and laid it on the floor to measure it, and noticed the top was ‘tighter’ than lower down at the start of the work. Oh no! I had accidentally picked up a smaller hook… So I had to remake that part! Truly a labour of love, helped by some long car journeys. Note to self: keep your projects separate!”

Read more at www.insidecrochet.co.uk and visit Caroline’s shop at www.gorgeousyarns.co.uk.

Sol Rencoret www.acrochetjourney.com Tell us about yourself… I am originally from Chile but I moved to Edinburgh four years ago following a dream. Could you tell us a bit about what you do? I am an environmental engineer by profession, but I now work in management consulting. My skills have always been around maths and science, art was my worst subject in school! How long have you been blogging? It’s been a bit over two years since I hit “Publish” on that first post. I remember

Have you made new friends through blogging? Blogging has allowed me to connect with many people around the world and I have really enjoyed sharing my crochet journey. Reading comments or knowing that people are working my patterns is always such a thrill! How did you learn to crochet? I learned to crochet when I was nine or ten years old, a friend of the family taught me and I still remember a backpack I made: it was a creamy colour with navy stripes

“I started my blog to challenge my creative side: could an engineer actually be artistic?” it was short because I wanted to get it out there and stop making up reasons why I shouldn’t. I included a quote by Ernest Hemingway: “It is good to have an end to journey toward; but it is the journey that matters, in the end.” What inspired you to start blogging? I started my blog as a way to challenge my creative side. I had this struggle: could an engineer be artistic? I was on a tight budget so I started playing with stitches and colours to use up some of my stash. I thought if I blogged about it maybe it would be easier to keep up with it and I am glad I did, it opened up many opportunities such as teaching. Do you use any other social media? I love Instagram, but I am not as active as I would like to be. It brings me great joy to follow so many talented people, it really encourages you to do your best and be part of this amazing community.

and I crocheted chains for the handles! How did you start designing? It started with the challenge to use up my yarn stash, so I pushed myself to come up with something new and published my first free pattern: crochet wrist warmers using colourwork. Once I proved to myself I could do it, it grew from there. What is your biggest inspiration? Shapes and textures have always been a big inspiration, I enjoy translating something I see into fabric and creating something useful and beautiful. What item in your workspace couldn’t you live without? My interchangeable Tunisian crochet hooks! You can use them for so many different projects by just changing the cables! I also can’t live without project bags to keep my WIPs safe when I am out and about. What are you working on at the moment? I am busy writing a new pattern for a Tunisian crochet shawl that will be published in autumn. I am also working on a Tunisian crochet tee and a pair of crochet socks. Who are your favourite other bloggers? I am a huge fan of The Crochet Project created by Kat Goldin and Joanne Scrace. Their quest to make crochet more fashionable and wearable is a constant source of inspiration for me.

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IN THE LOOP

News etc

Just dandy

Colour therapy

Pom-tastic!

£25

¤35 (£31)

¤49 (£44)

This cosmetic bag features a glorious art deco style design printed on linen. www.luluandluca.etsy.com

Cheer up each day with a beautiful kelimstyle, woven wool and cotton cushion. www.guru-shop.de

Store towels to toys in this gorgeous, roomy seagrass basket with pom-poms. www.miramira.ie

MAKE A STATEMENT Bring a playful touch to your accessories and homewares this season with bright colours, fun designs and bold patterns.

We Love

Bathroom update

Gold treasures

Hot pink!

£14

£31

£30

Make waves with Margo Selby towels with neon striped trim. www.vivalagoon.com

Cast a candlelight glow with this set of four fabulous tealight holders, laser cut with intricate filigree patterns. www.artisanti.com

Stand out from the crowd with a stunning print by Kath Edwards. www.artfinder.com

To order back issues turn to page 58

Inspired? Blooming marvellous

Standing tall

£9.99

£7.45

Create an eye-catching centrepiece with a caterpillar style vase with six joined bulbs. www.oakroomshop.co.uk

Fall in love with the delightfully quirky illustration on this cotton tote. www.ceridwendesign.etsy.com

Try Annelies Baes's bright and bold Fame Cardigan from issue 75, worked in Scheepjes Mohair Rhythm yarn.

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BOOKS WE REVIEW NEW AND EXCITING RELEASES

WE ARE A L SO R E A DI NG...

Raw Joanne Scrace & Kat Goldin The Crochet Project, £12 print, £10 ebook UK terminology ➻ This new book from The Crochet Project channels their classic, wearable aesthetic into patterns designed for undyed British wools from Blacker Yarns. The book contains six gorgeous designs, from the slouchy, supercomfortable Teme Cardigan in a gradient of natural colours to the clever colourwork of the Newnham Hat and Mittens. There’s also a £5 gift voucher for Blacker Yarns included. WIN! We have one copy of Raw up for grabs – head to www.insidecrochet.co.uk/ competitions for your chance to win. Closing date 23 November 2016.

TURN TO PAGE 72 TO MAKE FRED MOUSE AND HIS SMART RUGBY KIT.

Rainbow Crocheted Blankets Amanda Perkins Search Press, £12.99 • UK terminology

Cute Crocheted Animals Emma Varnam GMC Publications, £12.99 UK terminology ➻ This adorable new book from one of our favourite designers is almost impossible to resist, with a super-cute collection of crocheted friends perfect for both the young and young at heart! Inspired by Emma’s childhood memories of dressing up dolls and teddies in homemade clothes, this is a wonderful set of mix-and-match designs. There are ten friendly animals to hook – two each of rabbits, mice, bears, cats and foxes. But it’s after you’ve made your favourite ted that the real fun begins! Each animal shown has their own outfit, ranging from Jack the rabbit’s bobble hat and yellow duffel coat to Lucy mouse’s sweet ballerina set. There’s even a cute granny stripe poncho and super-smart tank top in the collection. What’s more, all of the animal’s bodies and limbs are made to the same size, so all the outfits shown will fit any of the toys. We think these would make great long-term presents for a child – start them off one Christmas with a single animal and outfit, then add to the collection each time a present-buying occasion comes round. That’s if you can bear to give them away, of course!

➻ With an artist’s eye for colour and shade, Amanda Perkins has put together a collection of ten glorious blanket designs, mixing patterns and tones to truly show-stopping effect. Our favourites include the purple-hued Knot Garden and the beautiful rainbow Solstice, but any one would be a stunning addition to your home. Amanda recommends you work using yarn oddments left from other projects, and each pattern begins with a discussion of the colour palette and recommended brands.

Celtic Cable Crochet Bonnie Barker Interweave, £16.99 • US terminology ➻ Cables are still more often thought of as a knitting technique, rather than a crochet one, so it’s great to see books like this firmly dispelling that notion! This beautiful collection contains 18 patterns ranging from beginner designs such as a simple hat and scarf or cosy cowl to an oversized cardigan, stunning braided yoke jumper and delicate shawl. To buy a copy for just £11.99 including free UK p&p, ring 01206 255777 quoting ref TM816. Offer closes 23 December 2016.

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Gorgeous knitting and crochet supplies

WWW.LOOPKNITTING.COM 15 CAMDEN PASSAGE, ISLINGTON, LONDON N1 8EA 020 7288 1160

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All yarn and accessories can be found online and in-store at Loop. www.loopknitting.com Quote “InsideCrochet” to receive a 10% discount on the Orkney Angora yarn used in this project, until 23 November 2016

Confessions of a Pattern Collector RachelAtkinson is fascinated by the zingy colourwork pieces in her vintage collection, inspiring her to create a bright cowl pattern. | Rachel Atkinson is a crochet designer and technical editor. Find her online at www.mylifeinknitwear.Com and on Ravelry, Twitter, Instagram and Pinterest as Knittingtastic.

Y

ou can easily trace the history and origin of a number of specific colourwork techniques in knitting – Fair Isle, Bohus, Argyll and intarsia to name a few – but crochet doesn’t seem to be the same. Of course we can pinpoint certain styles to their homeland, and techniques such as Finnish slip-stitch or the ethereal beauty of Irish crochet are very much embedded in their roots. But as for colourwork, I have struggled to find anything beyond Tapestry crochet as a description that isn’t taken from a knitted technique. It would be lovely to hear from you with any region specific colourwork techniques that may have passed me by – we are always learning and it’s one of the things I love so much about crafting. Another interesting difference between crochet and knitted colourwork is that the vast majority of crochet techniques only use one colour per row, but with knitting patterns you will often find two or more colours used to create the visual pattern. The crochet colourwork stitch patterns often rely on spiked and missed stitches, or chains to create gaps which are worked over, thus creating the illusion of a two-colour row. It’s really clever and much easier than wrestling with two colours worked at the same time. It goes without saying that crocheters are more than used to working with multiple shades of yarn within a

project – it comes with the territory – and on the whole, crochet projects tend to be a more multi-coloured affair than knitting. Once again I return to my bundle of Mon Tricot magazines for examples and I am not disappointed; there’s a fab kid’s cardigan crocheted in primary colours which I wonder if I can resize for myself, along with another girl’s cardigan featuring “bright stripes so as not to show the dirt”. But it is a duo of patterns for a romper suit and dungarees worked in a tri-colour stitch pattern, which I stumble across in a different book, that provides inspiration for this month’s design. A few years ago I designed the Hawick knitted cowl for Loop using a stitch pattern inspired by tweed fabrics produced in that area of Scotland, and having been drawn to the bright and zingy colourwork patterns in my vintage collection I decided it was time to create a crochet version. Using the same gorgeous angora blend yarn from Orkney Angora, I chose my colours and got to work! The resulting cowl uses three shades and as with the knitted version, if you swap the colours around you should be able to make two cowls from the three balls of yarn. As for all the ends? Treat it as a short break in the day and take 10 minutes for yourself. Make a cup of tea, put on a podcast and weave, weave, weave away those ends!

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ADD TO THE STASH t yarn from Buy this gorgeously sof op.com www.loopknittingsh

Carloway Cowl This pretty cowl was inspired by vintage colourwork patterns.

MATERIALS ● Orkney Angora St Magnus DK, 50% angora/50% lambswool, 50g/200m/219yds Yarn A: London Soot x 1 ball Yarn B: Ghost x 1 ball Yarn C: Ruby x 1 ball ● 4mm hook (Note: If your tension is slightly loose you may find the rib flares, so use a 3.5mm hook to work the top and bottom rib bands) YARN ALTERNATIVES You can use any DK weight wool yarn to achieve a similar effect. TENSION Work 20 sts and 12 rows in tweed pattern to measure 10 x 10cm/4 x 4in using 4mm hook, or size required to obtain tension. MEASUREMENTS Finished cowl is 48cm/19in in circumference and 18cm/7in deep. SPECIAL STITCHES Ftr: Foundation treble chain. Raised treble front (rtrf): Yoh, insert

hook from front to back to front again around post of treble of previous row and complete tr in usual way. Raised treble back (rtrb): Yoh, insert hook from back to front to back again around post of treble of previous row and complete tr in usual way. PATTERN NOTES The cowl is easy to adapt to any size; simply add or remove a multiple of 4 sts to/from the starting chain. Worked at the correct tension, every 4 stitches measures 2cm/¾in. When adjusting the size, ensure you have sufficient yarn and that the cowl will fit over the recipient’s head! By switching the colours around and changing the main colour you should be able to complete two or three cowls from the three balls of Orkney Angora yarn. COWL Using 4mm hook and yarn A, leaving a 20cm/8in tail, make 96ftr (see Special Stitches). Do not turn and join for working in the rnd. START

Rib Rnd: 2ch (counts as 1rtrf (see Special Stitches), [1rtrb (see Special Stitches), 1Rtrf] to last st, 1Rtrb, join in second ch of 2ch – 96 sts. Rep rib rnd once more. Cont in the round and commence tweed patt changing colours every rnd, working yarns A, B, C in the same order throughout as foll: Rnd 1: 3ch (counts as 1tr throughout), 1tr in next st, [2ch, miss 2 sts, 1tr in ea of next 2 sts] to last 2 sts, 2ch, miss 2 sts, join in third ch of 3ch, fasten off yarn A. Rnd 2: Join yarn B in back loop of 3ch (first tr from prev rnd), [2ch, working in front of the 2ch from prev rnd throughout, work 1tr in ea of next 2 sts from last rib rnd] to end, join in 2ch-sp, fasten off yarn B. Rnd 3: Join yarn C in front loop of 3ch from rnd before prev rnd, 3ch, working in front of 2ch from prev rnd throughout, work 1tr in next st, [2ch, miss 2 sts, 1tr in ea of next 2 sts] to last 2 sts, 2ch, miss 2 sts, join in third ch of 3ch, fasten off yarn C. Rnd 4: Join yarn A in back loop of 3ch (first tr from prev rnd), [2ch,

working in front of the 2ch from prev rnd throughout, work 1tr in ea of next 2 sts from last rib rnd] to end, join in 2ch-sp, fasten off yarn A. Rnd 5: Join yarn B in front loop of 3ch from rnd before prev rnd, 3ch, working in front of 2ch from prev rnd throughout, work 1tr in next st, [2ch, miss 2 sts, 1tr in ea of next 2 sts] to last 2 sts, 2ch, miss 2 sts, join in third ch of 3ch, fasten off yarn B. Cont as set repeating rnds 4 & 5, changing yarns every rnd in the same order until 28 patt rnds have been worked in total – you should end with a yarn A rnd. Do not fasten off on final rnd and cont with yarn A only to end. Next Rnd: 3ch, 1tr in next st, [working in front of 2ch from prev rnd throughout, 1rtrf in next st, 1rtrb in next st, 1tr in ea of next 2 sts] to end, join in third ch of 3ch. Rep rib rnd twice more. Fasten off. FINISHING Weave in ends, close gap in ftr rnd and gently block to measurements.

END

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pretty in pink 16 Inside Crochet

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Katherine Jumper Dress by Jenny Reid Using Drops Alpaca Pattern page 46

Combine delicate colours with fabulous texture in our must-hook collection for the winter months. Photographs kirsten mavric & lucy williams Styling claire montgomerie Hair and make-up nicki henbrey

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Elegant Evening Bag by Helda Panagary Using Hoooked Zpagetti Pattern page 51

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Tunisian Starlight Sweater by Lindy Zubairy Using Sirdar Snuggly Baby Bamboo DK Pattern page 42 Navy Play Purse £25 www.playpurse.com www.insidecrochet.co.uk 19

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Gentleman’s Scarf by Bianca Boonstra Using Adriafil Snappy Ball Pattern page 50

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Cremosa Cardigan by Annelies Baes Using Scheepjes Merino Soft Pattern page 38

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pretty in pink

lefT Egg Clutch by Anna Meliksetyan Using Aunt Lydia’s Crochet Thread Classic 10 Pattern page 56

RIGHT Olivia Shawl by Esme at Red Sparrow Crochet Using Stylecraft Special DK Pattern page 59 22 Inside Crochet

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Specialising in exciting and natural yarns from around the world, unusual workshops and much more!

ock We st nd ra Clove e o Wav r P t i n K ! hooks

info@spinayarndevon.co.uk www.spinayarndevon.co.uk 01626 836203 26 Fore Street Bovey Tracey Devon TQ13 9AD

Specialising in hand dyed yarns

From a studio based in Glasgow, indie dyer Lisa Harland makes handmade ergonomic crochet hooks in a variety of styles and designs custom made to your specifications. As well as hooks, Lisa also creates beautiful hand dyed yarns in a stunning array of colours and other crochet goodies, accessories and notions for people who live for their love of yarn. Specialising in a range of different yarn clubs to suit all budgets, these monthly subscriptions are available on a no minimum sign up. With prices starting from just ÂŁ9 there really is a club to suit everyone. For details about the full range of Yarn Clubs available please visit our Etsy store or email us at : fortheloveofyarnuk@gmail.com

Find us on Etsy: Fortheloveofyarnuk

www.fortheloveofyarn.co.uk

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TUNISIAN CROCHET

The stitches

Tss RetP Srp Tks Tps

Tunisian simple stitch Return pass Striped return pa ss Tunisian knit sti tch Tunisian purl sti tch

MINI MASTERCLASS

Tunisian Crochet – the basics Try out this issue’s great cover gift with our stylish patterns and easy guide to Tunisian stitches.

T

unisian crochet has become more and more popular, demonstrated by the growing number of Tunisian patterns that are widely available – and by this issue’s free cover gift, a 6mm Tunisian hook with cable that you can use with either of our Tunisian projects this month – some sweet striped gadget cosies by Sarah Reed (page 62), or Lindy Zubairy’s glamorous star Starlight Sweater on page 42. If you’re a beginner to this technique, often thought of as a stylish combination of crochet and knitting, then keep reading for our simple guide to the basics of stitches, stripes and casting off. TOOLS OF THE TRADE The first thing you need to know about Tunisian crochet is that you’ll need to use a different crochet hook to normal. The technique is worked by

collecting many loops on your hook, then working them off again, so you need a longer hook than you’d use for regular crochet. Traditionally, Tunisian crochet hooks were extended steel hooks with a stopper at the end to prevent those extra stitches from falling off – similar to a traditional knitting needle. This type of hook is very heavy and rigid and can be unwieldy to use, especially if you grip your hook in the pen-style hold. Nowadays, with the resurgence of the craft, there are many different hooks to choose from, which have varied benefits. There are three main categories within this range. First are the traditional straight hooks, now made in a variety of materials, such as more flexible wood and bamboo, or lightweight aluminium. As well as being beautiful, these are also kinder to your hands than the traditional heavy steel.

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tunisian crochet

Secondly you have the double-ended hooks, which tend to be a bit shorter, with a hook at each end. This type is perfect for some colourwork projects, working in the round and for double-sided fabric techniques. Finally, you have the new hooks with a flexible cord at the end – this is what we’ve included with this issue. These tend to feel much more like a regular hook to work with, as the rigid part is similar in size to a normal crochet hook. The cord also holds the weight of the loops on the forward pass, which is easier on your hands, and also allows you to work on larger projects. First steps When working Tunisian crochet, there are two distinct “passes” to every row, a forward and a return pass. The forward pass collects all the loops onto the hook, and the return pass works them off again. This means that you never turn the work, but always work with the right side facing you. The return pass of the row is usually the same whatever stitch you are creating, whereas the forward pass has slight differences depending on the stitch you’re working. Here, we will begin with the most basic of stitches – the Tunisian simple stitch. Foundation row First, we have to work a foundation row, which also consists of a forward and return pass. As with regular crochet, you begin Tunisian crochet with a chain – the pattern will tell you how many chains to work, and (if you are working with a rigid hook as opposed to one with a cord) it may be easier to work this chain with a regular crochet hook and transfer to the longer hook afterwards. The chain on your hook counts as your first st. To work the forward pass, insert the hook into the second chain from the hook, yarn over and draw a loop through the chain so that there are now two loops (or stitches) on your hook.

Continue to work in this manner, without missing any more chains, pulling a loop through each chain in turn, and collecting the loops on your hook. The number of loops on your hook should be the same as the number of chains in your foundation – each loop counts as one stitch. Foundation forward pass completed. www.insidecrochet.co.uk 25

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Tunisian crochet

To work a Tunisian simple stitch forward pass, look at your work and identify the vertical bars that denote each stitch.

Return pass To work a standard return pass, you need to work the loops off two at a time. Begin by working 1ch, as with a regular turning chain in crochet, then yarn over and pull through two loops.

Continue working off the loops in twos by making a yarn over, then drawing through the next two loops on the hook across the whole row, until you are left with one loop remaining. Your standard return pass is completed. It will be worked the same for the remaining rows, although the forward pass of each following row will be worked in a slightly different way, depending on the stitch being created.

The chain on your hook counts as the first stitch, so miss the first vertical bar that’s directly under your hook. Now, insert your hook under the second vertical bar from right to left, yarn over, and pull up a loop. You will now have two loops (or stitches) on your hook.

Work in the same way across the entire row, drawing up a loop in every vertical bar of each stitch, collecting each loop on your hook as you progress. Again, you will have as many loops on your hook as you do total stitches for each row.

STRIPES The gadget cosies in this issue use the most common Tunisian stripe technique, which is worked in a very similar way to regular crochet stripes.

As with regular crochet, you begin the stripe on the last step of the last stitch in the previous row. On the row before you wish to change colour, work your standard return pass until you have only two loops left on the hook.

Work the final “yoh, draw through two loops” using the new shade, then complete your next forward pass in the new colour.

To work the stitches off the hook, complete the standard return pass. Tunisian simple stitch The most basic and common of the Tunisian stitches is the Tunisian simple stitch (Tss), which is used in both our gadget cosy and Starlight Sweater designs. This stitch creates a fabric that looks woven in construction.

To work the entire fabric in Tunisian simple stitch, simply continue working in this way, alternating a Tss forward pass with a standard return pass until the desired length is achieved.

If you want to create single rows of neat stripes of colour, simply work the forward and return passes of each row in the same colour, as with the cosies. However, the great thing about Tunisian crochet is that you can also create a lovely woven effect by working two colours across one row if you prefer. This effect is achieved by working the forward pass in one colour and the return pass in a contrast shade as follows: Work the forward pass in the first colour, then when you get to the end of the row, make the 1ch with the contrast shade. the contrast shade.

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CASTING OFF

Now work the return pass of this row and the forward pass of the next row in this shade. The return pass changing of colour is called a striped return pass (srp).

While it is not essential to “cast off” your work as you might in knitting, as the stitches will be secure with a regular crochet fasten off, it is much neater to finish your work with a Tunisian cast-off. To do this, working from right to left across the top edge of the work, insert the hook from right to left under the second vertical bar of your work, yarn over and pull through two loops, so you end with only one loop on the crochet hook.

TUNISIAN CROCHET

Continue to work in this method, inserting the hook from right to left under the next vertical bar, working a yarn over and pulling through two loops, all the way across. When you get to the last stitch of the row, insert your hook under the vertical bar in the front and the horizontal bar behind it, yarn over and pull through both loops. Finally, yarn over and pull through the one loop on the hook, then fasten off the final loop just as you would with normal crochet.

TIPS OF THE TRADE! ★ Don’t forget: each row consists of two passes – a forward and return pass. ★ Never turn your work unless specifically instructed to. The right side of your fabric should be always facing you. ★ Tunisian crochet can often curl. To reduce the amount of curl in your projects, work the foundation row into the back bumps of your starting chains. Keep your tension as loose as possible and once your project is finished, gently use steam to block your completed piece. ★ The first loop on your hook always counts as the first stitch of the row, so you don’t need a turning chain at the beginning of the row. Therefore, always miss the first vertical bar when starting your forward pass. ★ Don’t forget the 1ch at the beginning of the return pass. ★ To add stability to your fabric, work the final stitch of your forward pass through the stitch rather than under the vertical bar, with two threads to the left and one to the right of your hook.

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*Covermount gifts not available with digital versions

£34.99 FOR 12 MONTHS £19.99 FOR 6 MONTHS ➻

MAKE IT

Pattern instructions

All yarn and accessories can be found online and in-store at Loop. www.loopknitting.com Quote “InsideCrochet” to receive a 10% discount on the Orkney Angora yarn used in this project, until 23 November 2016

Katherine Jumper Dress BY JENNY REID

This pretty ombre-effect slouchy dress is perfect for cosying up against the autumn chills!

ADD TO THE STASH Buy this super-soft yarn from www.woolwarehouse.co.uk

MATERIALS ● Drops Alpaca, 100% alpaca, 50g/167m/183yds Yarn A: Dark Grey Mix 0506 x 4 (4, 5, 5) balls Yarn B: Medium Grey Mix 0517 x 4 (4, 5, 5) balls Yarn C: Light Grey Mix 0501 x 4 (4, 5, 5) balls Yarn D: Dusty Pink 3112 x 4 (4, 5, 5) balls Yarn E: Medium Pink 3720 x 4 (4, 5, 5) balls Yarn F: Pink 2921 x 4 (4, 5, 5) balls ● 3mm hook ● Yarn needle YARN ALTERNATIVES Any 4ply yarn would work as a suitable alternative for this design. TENSION Work 12dc and 20 rows to measure 6 x 6cm/2¼ x 2¼in using 3mm hook, or size required to obtain tension.

46 Inside Crochet

DESIGNER BIOGRAPHY Jenny Reid loves all things craft, but holds a special torch for crochet. Visit her Ravelry site at www.ravelry.com/designers/ jenny-reid or tweet her at @MillieRoseUK. Turn to page 98 to read our interview with Jenny.

Confessions of a Pattern Collector

SPECIAL STITCHES 3trcl: (Yrh, insert hook in next st, RachelAtkinson is fascinated by the zingy colourwork pieces in her yrh, pull through, yrh, pull vintage collection, inspiring her to create a bright cowl pattern. through 2 lps) three times, yrh, project – it comes with the territory – and on the whole, ou can easily trace the history and origin of Rachel is a pull through|crochet alldesigner 4Atkinson lps. and crochet projects tend to be a more multi-coloured a number of specific colourwork techniques technical editor. Find her online at www.mylifeinknitwear.Com and on Ravelry, Twitter, Instagram and Pinterest as Knittingtastic.

Y

in knitting – Fair Isle, Bohus, Argyll and intarsia to name a few – but crochet doesn’t seem to be the same. Of course we can pinpoint certain styles to their homeland, and techniques such as Finnish slip-stitch or the ethereal beauty of Irish crochet are very much embedded in their roots. But as for colourwork, I have struggled to find anything beyond Tapestry crochet as a description that isn’t taken from a knitted technique. It would be lovely to hear from you with any region specific colourwork techniques that may have passed me by – we are always learning and it’s one of the things I love so much about crafting. Another interesting difference between crochet and knitted colourwork is that the vast majority of crochet techniques only use one colour per row, but with knitting patterns you will often find two or more colours used to create the visual pattern. The crochet colourwork stitch patterns often rely on spiked and missed stitches, or chains to create gaps which are worked over, thus creating the illusion of a two-colour row. It’s really clever and much easier than wrestling with two colours worked at the same time. It goes without saying that crocheters are more than used to working with multiple shades of yarn within a

FRONT/BACK START Make two pieces the same With yarn A and 3mm hook, 201 (209, 217, 225)ch. Row 1: 3ch (counts as 1tr here and throughout), 1tr in each ch to end, turn – 201 (209, 217, 225) sts. Row 2: 3ch, 1ch, miss 1tr, [3tr in next tr, miss 3 sts, 1ch] to last 2 sts, miss 1tr, 1tr in top of 3ch, turn – 50 (52, 54, 56) shells.

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affair than knitting. Once again I return to my bundle of Mon Tricot magazines for examples and I am not disappointed; there’s a fab kid’s cardigan crocheted in primary colours which I wonder if I can resize for myself, along with another girl’s cardigan featuring “bright stripes so as not to show the dirt”. But it is a duo of patterns for a romper suit and dungarees worked in a tri-colour stitch pattern, which I stumble across in a different book, that provides inspiration for this month’s design. A few years ago I designed the Hawick knitted cowl for Loop using a stitch pattern inspired by tweed fabrics produced in that area of Scotland, and having been drawn to the bright and zingy colourwork patterns in my vintage collection I decided it was time to create a crochet version. Using the same gorgeous angora blend yarn from Orkney Angora, I chose my colours and got to work! The resulting cowl uses three shades and as with the knitted version, if you swap the colours around you should be able to make two cowls from the three balls of yarn. As for all the ends? Treat it as a short break in the day and take 10 minutes for yourself. Make a cup of tea, put on a podcast and weave, weave, weave away those ends!

12/10/2016 12:05

11/10/2016 20:42

Digital subscriptions start from as little as £19.99 for six months

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PLAY TIME! Fill your home with bright colours, fun textures and easy-hook motifs.

PHOTOGRAPHS JASON MASTERS, KIRSTEN MAVRIC, REBECCA MOTHERSOLE AND LUCY WILLIAMS STYLING CLAIRE MONTGOMERIE

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Boho Baby Cardigan by Twinkle Design Co-op Using Debbie Bliss Rialto 4ply and Cotton DK, Patons Fairytale Cloud DK and Rooster Baby Rooster Pattern page 77

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p l ay t i m e !

above Fred Mouse by Emma Varnam Using Debbie Bliss Baby Cashmerino Pattern page 72 above right Fox Headgear by Ashley Leither Using Lion’s Brand Vanna’s Choice and Vanna’s Choice Baby Pattern page 70

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below Ellen the Elephant Blanket by San Bee for Loopsan Using Debbie Bliss Rialto DK Pattern page 66

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p l ay t i m e !

above Block-by-Block Stool Cover by Cassie Ward Using DMC Woolly Pattern page 64 above right Argyle Storage Basket by Ashley Cramp Using King Cole Big Value Pattern page 84

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below Peacock Blanket by Emma Du Using Stylecraft Special DK Pattern page 60

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p l ay t i m e !

lefT Triangle Tapestry Necklace by Emma Potter Using Rico Design Fashion Jersey Pattern page 48

RIGHT Tunisian Striped Gadget Cosies by Sarah Reed Using Deramores Studio DK Pattern page 62 34 Inside Crochet

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THE YARN AND WOOL FAIR Hitchin Festiwool - Saturday 12th November

For more information visit

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Saturday 12th November 2016 10.00 AM - 5 PM

Online store specialising in alpaca and other luxury yarns, haberdashery, patterns, kits and much more..

The New Atrium, North Herts College Hitchin Campus Prebooked tickets - £5 OAPS and under 10 - £4

10% T use code IC15

On the day tickets - £7.50

DISCOUN

Over 50 exhibitors Book Signings

Visit online www.thelittlewoolcompany.com

or call 01409 221699 for mail order

Presentations Demos Fashion Shows Find us on Facebook, Twitter, Instagram, Pinterest and Smugmug

Beautiful hand-painted yarns in luxury, natural fibres; fine threads for lace making and embroidery; patterns & kits for our own lace shawl designs; crochet kits, crochet markers Visit us on-line or at a yarn show near you

www.watercoloursandlace.co.uk admin@watercoloursandlace.co.uk 01379 674427

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Go to festiwool.com/hitchin to book your place for 1 of our 7 workshops.

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Coleshill Accessories www.coleshillaccessories.co.uk

Sets of Knit-Pro Interchangeable needles

Clover Soft Touch Crochet Set £29.99

in strong, rainbow coloured birch. The birch wood tips screw into the cables, enabling you to change size quickly and economically. You can knit straight or in the round. Great for arthritic hands!

Flexible feeling in your fingers

The needle point is ideally shaped for easy crocheting

Contains 8 hooks in sizes:- 2.0mm 2.5mm, 3.0mm, 3.5mm, 4.0mm, 4.5mm, 5.5mm, & 6mm in compact smart case.

The handle is light, easy to hold and well balanced.

The material looks like stylish tortoise shell

Clover Soft Touch Crochet hooks Customers’ favourite!

Symfonie De Luxe set £59.95 Has 8 pairs of needles sizes 3.5, 4.0, 4.5, 5.0, 5.5, 6.0, 7.0, 8.0mm. and 4 cables to make 60, 80, 100 & 120 cm circular needles.

Remember to state size. Available singly in sizes 2, 2.25, 2.5, 2.75, 3, 3.25, 3.5, 4, 4.5, 5, 5.5, 6mm £3.25ea For smaller than 2mm see our website or ring us. See left for a set in a case.

Knitting Needle & Crochet Cases Circular Needles case. Crochet hook case Two rows of pockets for circular Holds 8 hooks £7.95 needles, tips and cables £11.50

Knitting Needle Cases Symfonie Starter set £21.50 Has 3 knitting tips sizes 4mm, 5mm, 6mm and 3 cables 60cm, 80cm and100cm.

Store up to 7 pairs of needles in each with a pocket for accessories. State size required. A) For 9” needles B) For 14” needles

£11.50 each

Clover Row counter £6.95 Pendant style for using with circular needles. Just click to change the number. Lockable.

Handeze Gloves Relieve pain from arthritis, tendonitis, carpel tunnel etc. while stitching or knitting. Available in beige or slate blue, with or without the extra wrist strap, which gives more support. Tail Catcher £21.95 To measure for size place hand on piece of Secures the end of your thread paper. Mark the paper each side of the when it is too short to use a knuckles, at the base of the fingers. Measure needle. Thread the loop through the distance between the 2 marks and select your stitching, hook the short size. thread into the loop & pull Size 2 2.0 - 2½” 51 – 64mm through. 2½” - 3 ¼ ” 64 – 78 mm Size 3 Choose from Butterfly, Tortoise, 3¼” 3 ¾” 78 – 91 mm Size 4 Celtic, Bee, Kingfisher 3¾ 4½” 91 – 105mm Size 5 Not suitable for wool. Regular £19.95 Wrist Support £20.95 Postage & packing. Orders up to £12 – £2.95. Orders £12 to £25 - £3.95. Orders over £25 - £4.95.

Order from Siesta Frames Ltd (Please make cheques payable to Siesta Frames Ltd) Unit D. Longmeadow Ind.Est. Three Legged Cross, Wimborne. BH21 6RD

Telephone. 01202 829461 www.coleshillaccessories.co.uk Other items available at www.siestaframes.com

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YOUR PATTERN INSTRUCTIONS START HERE BEGINNER

Cremosa Cardigan

EASY

INTERMEDIATE

Annelies Baes

Starlight Sweater

Lindy Zubairy

Katherine Jumper Dress

Page 38

Page 42

Egg Clutch

Olivia Shawl

ADVANCED

Jenny Reid

Tapestry Necklace

Emma Potter

Gentleman’s Scarf

Elegant Evening Bag

Page 46

Page 48

Page 50

Page 51

Bianca Boonstra

Helda Panagary

Peacock Blanket

Tunisian Striped Gadget Cosies

Block-by-Block Stool Cover

Anna Meliksetyan

Esme at Red Sparrow Crochet

Page 56

Page 59

Page 60

Page 62

Page 64

Ellen the Elephant

Fox Headgear

Fred Mouse

Boho Baby Cardigan

Argyle Storage Basket Page 84

Emma Du

Sarah Reed

San Bee for Loopsan

Ashley Leither

Emma Varnam

Twinkle Design Co-op

Page 66

Page 70

Page 72

Page 77

Cassie Ward

Ashley Cramp

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MAKE IT

Pattern instructions MATERIALS ● Scheepjes Merino Soft, 50% Merino wool/ 25% microfibre/25% acrylic, 50g/105m/114yds Yarn A: Lowry 604 x 8 (9, 10, 12) balls Yarn B: Cézanne 617 x 4 (7, 8, 5) balls Yarn C: Klimt 616 x 5 (3, 4, 8) balls (Note: This is the yarn needed WITH the belt. If you do not make the belt, deduct two balls of yarn C (B, B, C)) ● 5mm hook ● Yarn needle ● Ruler, pins and mat for blocking YARN ALTERNATIVES Use any DK weight yarn to achieve a similar effect, making sure to choose a yarn that has enough yardage to avoid a heavy garment. TENSION Work 15 sts and 14* rows in seed st to measure 10 x 10cm/4 x 4in using 5mm hook, or size required to obtain tension. * Work just over 14 rows, but less than 14½ rows to achieve 10cm/4in. DESIGNER BIOGRAPHY Annelies Baes loves designing top down and seamless garments, and tries to inspire people to use their own creativity! Visit her website at www.en.vicarno.com.

Cremosa Cardigan

SPECIAL STITCH PATTERNS Seed St Row 1: 2ch (counts as tr), [1dc in next st, 1tr in next st] to end, ending with 1dc in last st, turn. Row 2: As row 1 (working 1dc st in every tr, and 1tr in every dc). Always begin with 1dc in first st when Seed St is referred to in pattern. ADD TO THE STASH Buy this wool-blend yarn from www.woolwarehouse.co.uk

2htr bln: Work 2htr between the last st just made and the next st in which to be worked.

BY ANNELIES BAES

Wrap up in this trendy oversized cardigan this winter: wear it loose for a casual look, or with the belt for a more sophisticated style.

PATTERN NOTES The cardigan is worked top down and without seams. Slanted sleeves provide a trendy and comfortable fit, with raised stitches on the shoulders forming a solid “fake seam”, giving this cardigan the necessary support. Designed to be worn with some

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BODY With 5mm hook and yarn A, 37 (39, 41, 41)ch. Row 1: (WS) 1htr in third ch from hook (first 2ch does not count as a st), 1htr in each of next 3ch, 27 (29, 31, 31) Seed St (see Special Stitch Patterns), 1htr in each of last 4ch, turn – 35 (37, 39, 39) sts. Row 2: (RS) 2ch (counts as first st here and throughout), 1dc in same sp, 2htr bln (see Special

72 (77, 81, 85)cm 28¼ (30¼, 32, 33½)in

Increasing The slanted sleeves are created by increasing stitches on the shoulder “line”. From row 2 on, raised stitches are made to create a solid shoulder line. The increases are made just before and after the raised stitches, not into the top of the stitch itself, but first in the space between the last stitch made and before the next stitch (the raised stitch) and next in the space between the last stitch made (the raised stitch) and the next stitch.

18 (19, 21, 22.5)cm 7 (7½, 8¼, 8¾)in

positive ease, it is long and comfortable – adapt length as you choose but be aware that a longer length garment will take more yarn. Belt is optional.

5.5 (6, 6, 6.5)cm 2 (2¼, 2¼, 2½)in

22.5 (25, 28, 30.5)cm 8¾ (9¾, 11, 12)in

22.5 (25, 28, 30.5)cm 8¾ (9¾, 11, 12)in

START

7.5 (8, 8, 8.5)cm 3 (3¼, 3¼,3½)in

54.5 (61, 65.5, 69.5)cm 21½ (24, 25¾, 27¼)in Back width

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MAKE IT

Pattern instructions DIVIDE FOR FRONTS AND BACK FIRST FRONT Row 17 (19, 21, 23): (WS) 2ch, 32 (36, 40, 44) Seed st, 1dc in first rtrb, turn, leave rest of row unworked for back and second front parts – 34 (38, 42, 46) sts. Row 18 (20, 22, 24): 2ch, 33 (37, 41, 45) Seed st, turn. Rep last row a further 25 (27, 29, 31) times (or until armhole depth is about 18 (19.5, 21, 22.5)cm/ 7 (7¾, 8¼, 9)in). Cut yarn and fasten off. BACK Row 17 (19, 21, 23): (WS) Rejoin yarn next to First Front, in second st of shoulder, work 2ch in this rtrb, and cont over back part working dc2tog over next 2htr, 1tr in next dc, 86 (96, 106, 116) Seed st, end with 1dc in first rtrb (out of two), turn, leaving rest of sts unworked for Second Front – 90 (100, 110, 120) sts. Row 18 (20, 22, 24): 2ch, 89 (99, 109, 119) Seed st, turn. Rep last row for same number of rows as First Front. Cut yarn and fasten off. SECOND FRONT Row 17 (19, 21, 23): (WS) Rejoin yarn to Back, in second rtrb of shoulder, work (2ch, 1dc) in this rtrb, cont over rest of stitches working 1tr in next htr, 31 (35, 39, 43) Seed st until end of row, turn – 34 (38, 42, 46) sts. Row 18 (20, 22, 24): 2ch, 33 (37, 41, 45) Seed st, turn – 34 (38, 42, 46) sts. Rep last row for same number of rows as First Front. Cut yarn and fasten off.

Stitches and Pattern Notes), [rtrf around next htr] twice, 2htr bln, 29 (31, 33, 33) Seed St, 2htr bln, [rtrf around next htr] twice, 2htr bln, 1dc in next st, 1htr in second ch, turn – 45 (47, 49, 49) sts. Row 3: 2ch, 1dc in first htr, 1tr, 2 Seed st, 2htr bln, [rtrb around next rtrf] twice, 2htr bln, 1tr, 31 (33, 35, 35) Seed st, 1tr, 2htr bln, [rtrb around next rtrf] twice, 2htr bln, 1tr, 3 Seed st, turn – 54 (56, 58, 58) sts. Row 4: 2ch, 5 Seed st, 2htr bln, [rtrf around next rtrb] twice, 2htr

bln, 37 (39, 41, 41) Seed st, 2htr bln, [rtrf around next rtrb] twice, 2htr bln, 7 Seed st, turn – 62 (64, 66, 66) sts. Row 5: 2ch, 8 Seed st, 2htr bln, [rtrb around next rtrf] twice, 2htr bln, 1tr, 39 (41, 43, 43) Seed st, 1tr, 2htr bln, [rtrb around next rtrf] twice, 2htr bln, 1tr, 7 Seed st, turn – 70 (72, 74, 74) sts. Row 6: 2ch, 9 Seed st, 2htr bln, [rtrf around next rtrb] twice, 2htr bln, 45 (47, 49, 49) Seed st, 2htr bln, [rtrf around next rtrb] twice, 2htr bln, 11 Seed st, turn – 78 (80, 82, 82) sts.

Row 7: 2ch, 12 Seed st, 2htr bln, [rtrb around next rtrf] twice, 2htr bln, 1tr, 49 (51, 53, 53) Seed st, 1tr, 2htr bln, [rtrb around next rtrf] twice, 2htr bln, 1tr, 11 Seed st, turn – 86 (88, 90, 90) sts. Cont in this same way until you have worked a total of 15 (17, 19, 21) rows. Row 16 (18, 20, 22): 2ch, 29 (33, 37, 41) Seed st, 2htr bln, [rtrf around next rtrb] twice, 2htr bln, 85 (95, 105, 115) Seed st, 2htr bln, [rtrf around next rtrb] twice, 2htr bln, 31 (35, 39, 43) Seed st, turn – 158 (176, 194, 212) sts.

JOIN FRONT AND BACK Row 1: (WS) Rejoin yarn to First Front with sl st, 2ch in first st, work Seed st across First Front, leaving last 4 (4, 6, 8) sts unworked, miss first 4 (4, 6, 8) sts of Back, 1tr in next st, cont in Seed st over Back leaving last (4, 4, 6, 8) sts unworked, miss first 4 (4, 6, 8) sts of Second Front, 1tr in next st, cont in Seed st across Second Front, turn – 142 (160, 170, 180) sts. Row 2: (RS) 2ch, Seed st to end, turn. Row 3: As row 2. Cont to repeat row 2 working stripes as folls:

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4 (4, 4, 6) rows in yarn B. 4 (4, 4, 6) rows in yarn C. 8 (8, 8, 10) rows in yarn B. 8 (8, 8, 10) rows in yarn C. 12 (12, 12, 14) rows in yarn B. 12 (12, 12, 14) rows in yarn C. 0 (12, 16, 0) rows in yarn B. BOTTOM EDGING 2ch at start of row does not count as st unless otherwise stated. Always miss st behind raised st. Row 1: (RS) With yarn C (B, B, C) 2ch, 1htr in every st, around bottom edge, turn – 142 (160, 170, 180) sts. Row 2: (WS) 1ch, 1dc in each st working 1 (1, 0, 0)dc in top of 2ch, turn – 143 (161, 170, 180) sts.

SLEEVE EDGING Turn work inside out, right sides to the inside, close small underarm seam by sl st tog 4 (4, 6, 8) sts. Turn cardigan to RS. In first row htr sts are worked along arm opening which is 26 (28, 30, 32) rows high. To get

correct number of edging sts inc 2 (1, 0, 2) sts in first round on both sides and next to underarm seam at each end of first round. 2ch at beg of rnd counts as 1htr unless otherwise indicated. 1ch at beg of rnd does not count as st. Always miss st behind raised

Sizes S/M, M/L and L/XL only Row 3: 2ch, 2htr, 1rtrf around next htr of row 1, [2htr, 1rtrf around next htr of row 1] to last 2 sts, 2htr, turn.

All Sizes Row 4: 1ch, dc to end, turn. Row 5: As row 3. Rows 6 & 7 (-, 6 & 7, 6–9): Rep last two rows. Cut yarn and fasten off.

Do not cut yarn, turn work one quarter turn and sl st along bottom part of Front Edging rows. Cut yarn and fasten off. Do the same thing along the other side of the front edging.

Rnd 3: 2ch, 1rtrf around beg 2ch of rnd 1 (do not miss an extra st here, beg 2ch does not count as a st and can be considered as the missed st), 2htr, [1rtrf around next htr of rnd 1, 2htr] around, sl st in first rtrf, turn. Rnd 4: 1ch, 1dc in first st, 1dc in every next st (but not in beg 2ch of rnd 3), sl st in first dc, turn. Rep last two rnds another three (four, four, five) times. Cut yarn and fasten off. BELT (Optional) For a belt that measures about 144 (152, 165, 176)cm/57½ (60½, 66, 70½)in long: With yarn C (B, B, C) 217 (231, 249, 267)ch. Starting in third ch from hook, work Seed st to end, turn. Work another 9 (9, 11, 11) rows in Seed st. Fold belt double, sl st around entire belt, cut yarn and fasten off.

Size XL/XXL only Row 3: 2ch, 1htr, 1rtrf around next htr of row 1, [2htr, 1rtrf around next htr of row 1] to last st, 1htr, turn.

FRONT EDGING 2ch at beg of row does not count as st. Always miss st behind raised st, unless otherwise indicated. Row 1: (RS) Join yarn A at bottom of First Front with sl st, (2ch, 1htr) in first st, work 1htr in every row along edge, cont across neckline, work down Second Front to bottom, turn, ensuring you have a number of sts divisible by 3 + 2. Row 2: (WS) (1ch, 1dc) in first htr, dc to end, turn. Row 3: (2ch, 1htr) in first dc, 1htr, [1rtrf around next htr of row 1, 2htr] to end, turn. Rep last two rows another five (six, six, seven) times.

stitch, unless otherwise indicated. Rnd 1: (RS) 2ch, 1htr in every st around, sl st in second ch, turn – 54 (57, 60, 66) sts. Rnd 2: (WS) 1ch, htr around, sl st in first dc, turn.

FINISHING Weave in all ends. Block cardigan gently. Pin carefully in shape and allow to dry naturally. Remove pins.

TO FIT BUST

S/M

M/L

L/XL

XL/XXL

80–90

90–100

100–110

110–120

cm

31½–35½

35½–39½

39½–43½

43½–47¼

in

FINISHED BACK

54.5

61

65.5

69.5

cm

WIDTH

21½

24

25¾

27¼

in

FRONT WIDTH

22.5

25

28

30.5

cm

11

12

in

72

77

81

85

cm

28¼

30¼

32

33½

in

7.5

8

8

8.5

cm

3

in

5.5

6

6

6.5

cm

2

in

18

19

21

22.5

cm

7

in

LENGTH FRONT EDGING SLEEVE EDGING SLEEVE DEPTH SLANTED SLEEVE

END

20.5

22

23.5

25

cm

8

10

in

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MAKE IT

Pattern instructions MATERIALS ● Sirdar Snuggly Baby Bamboo DK, 80% bamboo sourced viscose/20% wool, 50g/95m/104yds Shade: Peony 110 x 6 balls ● 6mm Tunisian hook ● 5mm ordinary hook ● Yarn needle YARN ALTERNATIVES You can use any DK weight bamboo mix to achieve a similar effect, for example Universal Yarn Bamboo Pop or King Cole Bamboo Cotton DK. TENSION Work 14 sts and 16 rows in Tss with Star Stitches to measure 10 x 10cm/4 x 4in using 6mm hook, or size required to obtain tension. Note: the star stitches make a marked difference to the final measurements compared to a swatch that uses only Tss.

TURN TO PAGE 24 FOR OUR TUNISIAN MASTERCLASS

Tunisian Starlight Sweater

ADD TO THE STASH Buy this super-smooth yarn from www.wisebadger.com

BY LINDY ZUBAIRY

Use this issue’s free gift to create our glamorous Tunisian top, perfect for office parties and nights out on the town!

DESIGNER BIOGRAPHY Lindy Zubairy studied Fashion Design before going on to work as a Graphic Designer. She later trained to teach Design and Technology at Goldsmiths College, and now shares her passion for crochet through teaching, writing and designing. Find her at www.yocrochet.co.uk or sign up for one of her courses at Denman College on www.tinyurl.com/lindycrochet. SPECIAL STITCH PATTERNS Tunisian Simple Stitch (forward pass): (Note: Ignore very first vertical bar on right hand edge as lp already on hk) [Insert hk from right to left under next front vertical bar, yoh and pull through]; repeat until Forward Pass completed, close row with Standard Return Pass. End Stitch: Last st of forward pass; insert hk from front to back to the right of very last vertical bar, yoh at back of work and pull up a lp through front and back vertical bars. Standard Return Pass: Yoh, pull through one lp, [yoh, pull through two lps] until one lp left on hk. Star: Insert hk from right to left under next three vertical bars,

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Tunisian Full Stitch: Insert hk from front to back between vertical bars, yoh and pull up a lp (increase). Dec 1: Insert hook from right to left under both of next two front vertical bars, yoh and pull up a lp. Picot: 3ch, sl st in first ch. PATTERN NOTES The front and back are identical and joined at the side seams and on the shoulders Finishing is done in traditional double crochet at the armholes with a picot edging around the hem. The pattern measurements are for a snug fit that hugs contours, so if you prefer a looser fit, go up a size or two.

Stars made on every fifth row: ie on row 6, 11, 16, 21 etc. Each star uses 3 sts and has 7 plain sts between. Pattern st rep in multiples of 10. Adjust length by adding more rows of double crochet hemming before finishing with picot edge. MAIN BODICE FRONT & BACK With 6mm Tunisian hk, 66 (70, 74, 78, 82)ch. Row 1: Working into back bumps of ch, [insert hook in next ch, yoh and pull up a lp] 65 (69, 73, 77, 81) times, leaving 66 (70, 74, 78, 82) loops on the hook, SRP (see Special Stitch Patterns). Row 2: (Plain Row) Tss (see Special Stitch Patterns) to end, SRP. Rows 3–5: As row 2.

45cm 17¾in

yoh and pull lp through all three, yoh, reinsert hook under same three bars, yoh and pull through all three.

83 (88, 93, 98, 103)cm 32½ (34½, 36½, 38½, 40½)in

START

Row 6: (Star Row A) 2 (4, 6, 8, 10) Tss (includes lp already on hk so actually work one less than stated), [1 Star (see Special Stitch Patterns), 7Tss] six times, 1 Star,

0 (2, 4, 6, 8)Tss, 1ES (see Special Stitch Patterns), SRP. Rows 7–10: As row 2. Row 11: (Star Row B) 7 (9, 1, 3, 5)Tss (includes lp already on hk

so actually work one less than stated), [1 Star, 7Tss] five (five, six, seven, seven) times, 1 Star, 5 (7, 9, 1, 3)Tss, 1ES, SRP. Rows 12–15: As row 2. Rows 16–45: As rows 6–15.

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MAKE IT

Pattern instructions

SHAPE ARMHOLE Row 1: Sl st across next 7 sts, 5 (7, 9, 1, 3)Tss, [1 Star, 7Tss] four (four, four, five, six) times, 1 Star, 3 (5, 7, 9, 1)Tss, 1ES, SRP (leaving 7 sts unworked) – 52 (56, 60, 64, 68) sts. Row 2: Tss to end, SRP.

Rows 17–20: Tss to end, SRP. Row 21: As Star row Ai. Row 22: (Inc) 1TFS (see Special Stitch Patterns), 44 (48, 52, 56, 60)Tss, 1TFS, 1ES – 48 (52, 56, 60, 64) sts. Work Tss sl st cast off.

FINISHING JOINING PIECES Use your preferred method of joining seams. Works best for sizing if finished seam has edges abutting (no seam allowance). Mattress stitch with a blunt

needle and same yarn works well. Join side seams from row 1 to row 45 of main bodice section on both sides. Join shoulders from st 1 to st 6 only on each shoulder. ARMHOLE EDGING Join yarn at top of side seam under arm, work dc evenly around, sl st to close.

Row 3: (Dec) Dec 1 (see Special Stitch Patterns), Tss to last 3 sts, dec 1, 1ES, SRP – 50 (54, 58, 62, 66) sts. Row 4: Tss to end, SRP. Row 5: As row 3 – 48 (52, 56, 60, 64) sts.

PICOT EDGING Join yarn at base of side seam, [4dc, picot (see Special Stitch Patterns)] evenly around. Note: To add length, work extra round(s) of double crochet before picot round.

Row 6: (Star Row Bi) 8 (10, 2, 4, 6)Tss (includes lp already on hk), [1 Star, 7Tss] three (three, five, five, five) times, 1 Star, 6 (8, 0, 2, 4)Tss, 1ES, SRP. Row 7: As row 3 – 46 (50, 54, 58, 62) sts. Rows 8–10: Tss to end, SRP. Row 11: (Star Row Ai) 2 (4, 6, 8, 10)Tss (includes lp already on hk), [1 Star, 7Tss] four times, 1 Star, 0 (2, 4, 6, 8)Tss, 1ES, SRP. Rows 12–15: Tss to end, SRP. Row 16: (Star Row Bii) 7 (9, 1, 3, 5)Tss (includes lp already on hk), [1 Star, 7Tss] three (three, four, five, five) times, 1 Star, 5 (7, 9, 1, 3)Tss, 1ES, SRP.

NECK EDGING Join yarn at shoulder seam and work in dc evenly END around, sl st to close. Weave in ends.

XS TO FIT BUST ACTUAL BUST

S

M

L

XL

81

86

91

97

102

cm

32

34

36

38

40

in

83

88

93

98

103

cm

32½

34½

36½

38½

40½

in

LENGTH TO

46

46

46

46

46

cm

SHOULDER

18

18

18

18

18

in

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INTRODUCING

SWEET NEW YARN RANGES!

Sugar Rush & Bonbon

Available from

SCHEEPJES MAXI BONBON is a beautiful high twist mercerised 100% cotton lace weight yarn. It is available in 87 shades in 25 gram skeins, 140 metres long. This high quality yarn is perfect for fine crochet, filet crochet, amigurumi and lacy borders around cozy blankets. RRP £1.29.

stockists

SCHEEPJES MAXI SUGAR RUSH is made of the same beautiful high twist mercerised cotton lace weight yarn as Scheepjes Maxi Bonbon. It is available in the same 87 shades but in 50 grams skeins, 280 metres long. Perfect for larger projects. RRP £1.99.

www.scheepjes.com

Scheepjes Inside Crochet half vertical.indd 1

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MAKE IT

Pattern instructions

Katherine Jumper Dress BY JENNY REID

This pretty ombre-effect slouchy dress is perfect for cosying up against the autumn chills!

ADD TO THE STASH Buy this super-soft yarn from www.woolwarehouse.co.uk

MATERIALS ● Drops Alpaca, 100% alpaca, 50g/167m/183yds Yarn A: Dark Grey Mix 0506 x 4 (4, 5, 5) balls Yarn B: Medium Grey Mix 0517 x 4 (4, 5, 5) balls Yarn C: Light Grey Mix 0501 x 4 (4, 5, 5) balls Yarn D: Dusty Pink 3112 x 4 (4, 5, 5) balls Yarn E: Medium Pink 3720 x 4 (4, 5, 5) balls Yarn F: Pink 2921 x 4 (4, 5, 5) balls ● 3mm hook ● Yarn needle YARN ALTERNATIVES Any 4ply yarn would work as a suitable alternative for this design. TENSION Work 12dc and 20 rows to measure 6 x 6cm/2¼ x 2¼in using 3mm hook, or size required to obtain tension.

DESIGNER BIOGRAPHY Jenny Reid loves all things craft, but holds a special torch for crochet. Visit her Ravelry site at www.ravelry.com/designers/ jenny-reid or tweet her at @MillieRoseUK. Turn to page 98 to read our interview with Jenny. SPECIAL STITCHES 3trcl: (Yrh, insert hook in next st, yrh, pull through, yrh, pull through 2 lps) three times, yrh, pull through all 4 lps. FRONT/BACK Make two pieces the same With yarn A and 3mm hook, 201 (209, 217, 225)ch. Row 1: 3ch (counts as 1tr here and throughout), 1tr in each ch to end, turn – 201 (209, 217, 225) sts. Row 2: 3ch, 1ch, miss 1tr, [3tr in next tr, miss 3 sts, 1ch] to last 2 sts, miss 1tr, 1tr in top of 3ch, turn – 50 (52, 54, 56) shells. START

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11 10

38 (40, 40, 41.5)cm 15¼ (15¾,15¾, 16¼)in

32 (32, 34, 34)cm 12½ (12½, 13½, 13½)in

38 (40, 40, 41.5)cm 9 15¼ (15¾, 15¾, 16¼)in

Row 11 (13, 15, 17): As row 9. Rows 12–19 (14–21, 16–23, 18–25): As rows 2–9.

108 (112, 114, 117)cm 43 (44, 45, 46)in

8

7

6

5

Direction of work

4

3

25½cm/10in

76 (79, 81.5, 84)cm 30 (31, 32, 33)in

25½cm/10in

25½cm/10in

2

1 25½cm/10in

dth

chain stitch (ch) treble crochet (tr) 3 treble cluster

Row 3: 3ch, work (3trcl (see Special Stitches), 4ch, 3trcl) in centre tr of each 3tr shell to end, 1tr in top of 3ch, turn. Row 4: 4ch (counts as 1tr, 1ch), [3tr in 4ch-sp, 1ch] to last 4ch-sp, 1tr in top of 3ch, turn. Row 5: As row 3. Row 6: As row 4. Row 7: As row 3. Row 8: As row 4.

Rep rows 7 & 8 a further 0 (1, 2, 3) time(s). Row 9 (11, 13, 15): 3ch, 1tr in each st and ch-sp to end, turn – 201 (209, 217, 225) sts. Row 10 (12, 14, 16): 3ch, 4tr, work 1tr around both posts of 2tr just worked, [2tr, 1tr around both posts of 2tr just worked] to last 2 sts, 2tr, turn.

Change to yarn B. Row 20 (22, 24, 26): As row 10. Change to yarn A. Row 21 (23, 25, 27): As row 11. Change to yarn B. Rows 22–39 (24–41, 26–43, 28–45): As rows 2–19. Cont in this manner working yarns in order: A, B, C, D, E, F. Fasten off and weave in all ends. FINISHING SHOULDER SEAMS Place front and back of dress together, lining up pink halves and grey, turning so that work is facing sideways. With right sides facing and yarn E, dc along top of pink half, working from edge for 38 (40¾, 43¼, 45¾)cm/15¼ (15¾,15¾, 16¼)in. Fasten off. With yarn B, work the same for other side. SIDE SEAMS Work a running stitch along the line of crochet 25½cm/10in in from each end and 25½cm/10in in length in centre of garment – see schematic. Fasten off and weave in all ends.

END

11 10 9

8 7

6

5

4

3

WIDTH 2

LENGTH 1

S

M

L

XL

108

112

114

117

cm

43

44

45

46

in

76

79

81.5

84

cm

30

31

32

33

in

www.insidecrochet.co.uk 47

IC#83_46-47[KatherineTop]SP2RD.indd 47

11/10/2016 20:42


MAKE IT

Pattern instructions DESIGNER BIOGRAPHY Emma is a crochet loving mama, blogger and home-lover. Read her blog at www.potterandbloom.com. PATTERN NOTES Work with two strands held together at all times. NECKLACE Row 1: Using yarn A, make 2ch, work 2dc in second ch from hk, turn – 2 sts. Row 2: 1ch (does not count as st throughout), 1dc in first st, 2dc in next st, turn – 3 sts. Row 3: 1ch, 1dc in ea of first 2 sts, 2dc in last st, turn – 4 sts. Rows 4–9: Cont as set, increasing 1dc at end of row – 10 sts. START

Work Tapestry Crochet patt as foll: Row 10: 1ch, 1dc in first 2 sts, insert hk in next st and pull up a yarn A lp, holding two strands of yarn B together work yoh and pull through lps on hk to complete the dc and introduce new colour. Using yarn B and carrying yarn A behind the piece, work 4dc. On next dc switch back to yarn A by working the same colour change sequence but with the yarns reversed. Cut yarn B leaving a tail to weave in and complete the row working 1dc in next st and 2dc in final st, turn – 11 sts.

ADD TO THE STASH Buy this pure cotton yarn from www.lovecrochet.com

Triangle Tapestry Necklace BY EMMA POTTER

This chunky statement necklace is ideal for brightening up a plain outfit.

MATERIALS ● Rico Design Fashion Jersey, 64% cotton/36% polyamide, 50g/80m/88yds Yarn A: Azure 007 x 1 ball Yarn B: Smoke Blue 006 x 1 ball ● 10mm hook YARN ALTERNATIVES You can use any chunky weight jersey yarn to achieve a similar effect. TENSION Exact tension is not crucial for this design, but adjust your hook size to achieve a firm fabric. MEASUREMENTS Finished motif measures 13 x 13cm/5 x 5in.

Row 11: 1ch, 1dc in ea of next 10 sts, 2dc in last st, turn – 12 sts. Row 12: 1ch, 1dc in first 3 sts, change to yarn B (as worked in row 10) in next st, using yarn B and carrying yarn A behind the piece, work 4dc. On next dc switch back to yarn A (as worked in row 10). Cut yarn B leaving a tail to weave in and complete the row working 1dc in ea of next 2 sts and 2dc in final st, turn – 13 sts. Row 13: 1ch, 1dc in ea st to end. Fasten off. Join two strands of yarn A and one strand of yarn B to one corner of the motif with sl st. Make 48ch (or to desired length) and join at the other END side with sl st. Weave in all ends.

48 Inside Crochet

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Gorgeous Yarns Inspire and create We now exclusively stock Purely Gorgeous, a 100% Organic Merino yarn

www.gorgeousyarns.co.uk Email:gorgeousyarns@gmail.comďż˝ Tel:07985116432

IC83_49.indd 1

11/10/2016 18:13


MAKE IT

Pattern instructions

Gentleman’s Scarf BY BIANCA BOONSTRA

Inspired by woven structures and the generous yardage of the cotton yarn, this is a scarf that every man would love to wear. ADD TO THE STASH Buy this pure cotton yarn from www.beadandwoolshop.co.uk

MATERIALS ● Adriafil Snappy Ball, 100% cotton, 200g/540m/590yds Shade: Ecru 51 x 2 balls ● 2.5mm hook ● Yarn needle YARN ALTERNATIVES Any 4ply weight cotton will work for this design, though preferably not mercerised. TENSION Work 20dtr and 10 rows to measure 10 x 15 cm/4 x 6 in using 2.5mm hook, or size required to obtain tension. MEASUREMENTS Width: 17.5 (22.5, 27.5)cm/ 7 (9, 11) in. Length: 150cm/59in. DESIGNER BIOGRAPHY Bianca is a knitter, crocheter and spinner – not necessarily in that order. View more of her designs on Ravelry at www.ravelry.com/ designers/bianca-boonstra. SPECIAL STITCHES Raised double treble front (rdtrf): Yoh twice, insert hook

50 Inside Crochet

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11/10/2016 20:43


from front to back to front again around post/stem of dtr of previous row, and complete dtr in usual way. Raised double treble back (rdtrb): Yoh twice, insert hook from back to front to back again around post/stem of dtr of previous row, and complete dtr in usual way. SCARF With 2.5 mm hook, make 38 (48, 58)ch. Foundation Row: 1dtr in fourth ch from hook (first 3ch do not count as dtr), 1dtr in each ch to end – 35 (45, 55)dtr. Row 1: 4ch (counts as first dtr), START

4rdtrb (see Special Stitches), *5rdtrf (see Special Stitches), 5rdtrb; rep from * to end, turn. Row 2: 4ch (counts as first dtr), 4rdtrf, *5rdtrb, 5rdtrf; rep from * to end, turn. Row 3: Rep row 1. Row 4: Rep row 1. Row 5: Rep row 2. Row 6: Rep row 1. Row 7: Rep row 2. Row 8: Rep row 2. Row 9: Rep row 1. Row 10: Rep row 2. Row 11: Rep row 1 Repeat pattern rows 4–11 until 150cm/59in or END desired length. Fasten off and sew in ends.

Elegant Evening Bag BY HELDA PANAGARY

A classic evening bag for those nights out when all you need is a place for your keys, change and phone.

ADD TO THE STASH Buy this jersey yarn from www.hoooked.co.uk

www.insidecrochet.co.uk 51

IC#83_50-52[MensScarf_Bag]SP2RD.indd 51

11/10/2016 20:43


MAKE IT

Pattern instructions

MATERIALS ● Hoooked Zpagetti, 92% cotton/8% elastane, 1000g/120m/131yds Shade: Dark Blue 01 x 1 cone ● 10mm hook ● Turn lock twist clasp, width approx 14mm/½in ● Navy lobster claw handbag strap, 56cm/22in TENSION Exact tension is not essential for this pattern. MEASUREMENTS Finished bag is 15cm/6in high, and 25cm/10in wide. DESIGNER BIOGRAPHY Helda is hopelessly devoted to yarn, and is constantly working to transform it to modern wearable crochet. She can be found at www.heldasland.blogspot.co.uk. PATTERN NOTES The base of the bag is oval, worked in the round until specified.

The twist clasp comes in three pieces. Only use the “face” part of the clasp for this bag, as a decoration. If preferred, use a large brooch or a buckle from a belt. BAG With 10mm hook, make 17ch. Rnd 1: (RS) 3dc in second ch from hook, 14dc, 3dc in last ch, turn and work along underside of ch, 14dc, join with sl st in first dc – 34 sts. Rnd 2: 1ch, 1dc in each dc around, sl st in first dc – 34 sts. Rnds 3–9: Repeat rnd 2. START

Now turn and work in rows as foll: Row 1: 1ch, 17dc, turn – 17 sts. Rows 2–8: Rep row 1. Fasten off and weave in ends . ASSEMBLY Sew the decorative buckle/clasp onto the flap, then thread yarn through a stitch and knot a few times to secure on END both sides. Attach handles.

52 Inside Crochet

IC#83_50-52[MensScarf_Bag]SP2RD.indd 52

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10/10/2016 13:57


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IC#83 IC#83_54-55[subs]SPRD.indd 55

13/10/2016 09:07


MAKE IT

Pattern instructions

Egg Clutch BY ANNA MELIKSETYAN

Inspired by one of Instagram’s favourite emojis, eggspect to be a hit at your next night out with this small yet spacious clutch! ADD TO THE STASH Buy this pure cotton thread from www.amazon.co.uk

MATERIALS ● Aunt Lydia’s Crochet Thread Classic 10, 100% cotton, 365m/400yds Yarn A: White 01 x 1 ball Yarn B: Black 12 x 1 ball Yarn C: Golden Yellow 422 x 1 ball ● 2.75mm hook ● Black zip, 22cm/8½in ● Yarn needle YARN ALTERNATIVES Use any laceweight mercerised cotton to achieve a similar effect.

56 Inside Crochet

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Fried Egg Chart

TENSION Work 32 sts and 22 rows in dc blo to measure 10 x 10 cm/4 x 4in using 2.75mm hook, or size required to obtain tension.

36 35 34 33 32 31 30 29 28 27 26 25 24 23 22 21 20 19 18 17 16 15 14 13 12 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2

MEASUREMENTS Length: 20cm/8in. Depth: 16cm/6Ÿin. DESIGNER BIOGRAPHY Anna is the co-founder of HANK & HOOK, an online yarn boutique focused on DIY. Find her on Instagram and Twitter @hankandhook, and visit her website at www.hankandhook.com. PATTERN NOTES Use two strands of each shade throughout. Carry yarn not in use loosely across back of work to avoid puckering. Change colour on last pull through of last st of previous colour. CLUTCH With 2.75mm hook and two strands of yarn A, 125ch, join into a rnd with a sl st. Work from Chart as folls, working from right to left and joining in two strands each of yarns B and C as needed. Chart Rnd 1: Work in colour patt working in dc blo around working Chart five times around. Cont as chart rnd 1 to end of chart rnd 36. Fasten off leaving a 20cm/7žin tail for sewing. There will be ten full eggs, FriedandEgg five half eggs. START

Egg Chart

Fried Egg Chart

FINISHING Invert bag so WS is facing. Sew up bottom using mattress stitch starting from rnd 2 to create a sturdy bottom. Turn bag to RS, and with zip closed, line up one side along edge of bag. Pin zip into place, making sure to keep the fabric flat. Using a sewing needle and white thread to backstitch zip in place following a straight line. Once one side is complete, unzip and repeat on second side. Tuck in edges of zip to WS of bag.

IC#83_56-57[EggPurse]SPRD.indd 57

END

Chart

Yarn A: W

Yarn B: B

Yarn C: Y

1 25 24 23 22 21 20 19 18 17 16 15 14 13 12 11 10

36 35 34 33 32 31 30 29 28 27 26 25 24 23 22 21 20 19 18 17 16 15 14

36 35 Yarn A: White 34 Yarn B: Black33 32 Yarn C: Yellow 31 30 29 28 27 26 25 24 23 22 21 20 19 18 17 16 15 14 13 12

36 25 st Patt Rep 35 workYarn 5 times around A: White 34 Yarn B: Black33 32 Yarn C: Yellow 31 30 29 28 27 26 25 24 23 22 21 20 19 18 17 16 15 14 13 12 11 10

9

8

7

6

5

4

3

2

1

Yarn A: White Yarn B: Black Yarn C: Yellow

www.insidecrochet.co.uk 57

11/10/2016 19:33


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10/10/2016 19:36


MATERIALS ● Stylecraft Special DK, 100% acrylic, 100g/295m/322yds Yarn A: Pomegranate 1083 x 2 balls Yarn B: Claret 1123 x 1 ball ● 4mm & 5mm hooks YARN ALTERNATIVES You can use any DK weight yarn to achieve a similar effect. TENSION Exact tension is not critical for this pattern, but aim for a fairly loose tension to let the wrap hang properly. MEASUREMENTS Length: 120cm/47in. Width: 65cm/26in. DESIGNER BIOGRAPHY Esme is a crochet addict, teacher and mum. Follow her crochet musings (and meet Hank Deluxe her helpful cat) at www.facebook. com/redsparrowcrochet. SPECIAL STITCHES Bobble: 2ch, [yoh, insert hook in second ch from hook, draw up loop] five times, yrh, draw yarn through all 11 loops on hook, 1ch.

Olivia Shawl BY ESME AT RED SPARROW CROCHET

The traditional granny shawl gets a chic makeover, perfect for urban or country styles alike.

SHAWL With yarn A and 5mm hook, 4ch, join with sl st in first ch to form ring. Row 1: 3ch (counts as st here and throughout), 2tr in ring, 3ch (makes centre point at bottom of wrap), 3tr in ring, turn. START

Row 31: 3ch, 1tr in first tr, 2tr, [1ch, miss 1ch-sp, 3tr] to 3ch-sp, 1ch, (3tr, 3ch,3tr) in 3ch-sp, 1ch, [3tr, 1ch, miss 1ch-sp] to last 3 sts, 2tr, 2tr in top of third ch, turn. Row 32: 1ch, 4dc, [1ch, miss 1ch-sp, 3dc] to 3ch-sp, 1ch, (2dc, 1ch, 2dc) in 3ch-sp, 1ch, [3dc, 1ch, miss 1ch-sp] to end, working 1dc in each of last 4 sts, turn. Change to 4mm hook and draw loop of yarn B through same st. Fasten off yarn A. BOBBLE EDGING Row 33: 1ch, sl st in first st, *4ch, sl st in next 1ch-sp, make Bobble (see Special Stitches), sl st in same 1ch-sp to close Bobble; rep from * along both sides of shawl making Bobble in 1ch-sp at bottom point. Finish second side with a Bobble in top corner before working top edge. TOP EDGE Work ch and Bobbles at regular intervals along as desired. Finish with Bobble in final corner. Fasten off. FINISHING Weave in all ends.

END

65cm/26in

120cm/47in

PATTERN NOTES A row is worked along two sides of the triangle, down to the bottom point and back up the other side. Turn work at end of each row. Do not work along top edge of wrap until the bobble edging.

Row 2: 3ch, 2tr in first tr, 1ch, (3tr, 3ch, 3tr) in 3ch-sp, 1ch, 3tr in top of third ch, turn. Row 3: 3ch, 2tr in first tr, 1ch, 3tr in 1ch-sp, 1ch, (3tr, 3ch, 3tr) in 3ch-sp, 1ch, 3tr in 1ch-sp, 1ch, 3tr in top of third ch, turn. Row 4: 3ch, 2tr in first tr, 1ch, [3tr in next 1ch-sp, 1ch] to 3ch-sp, (3tr, 3ch, 3tr) in 3ch-sp, 1ch, [3tr in next 1ch-sp, 1ch] to end, 3tr in top of third ch, turn. Rows 5–20: Rep row 4. Change to yarn B. Rows 21–25: Rep row 4. Change to yarn A. Rows 26–30: Rep row 4.

www.insidecrochet.co.uk 59

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MAKE IT

Pattern instructions

Peacock Blanket BY EMMA DU

Mixed with blue, green, yellow, purple and golden colours, this unique blanket will add a graceful touch to your home.

MATERIALS ● Stylecraft Special DK, 100% acrylic, 100g/295m/322yds Yarn A: Aster 1003 x 1 ball Yarn B: Sherbet 1034 x 2 balls Yarn C: Camel 1420 x 2 balls Yarn D: Lime 1712 x 2 balls Yarn E: Pistachio 1822 x 1 ball Yarn F: Grass Green 1821 x 1 ball Yarn G: Kelly Green 1826 x 1 ball Yarn H: Turquoise 1068 x 1 ball Yarn I: Storm Blue 1722 x 1 ball Yarn J: Wisteria 1432 x 1 ball Yarn K: Magenta 1084 x 1 ball Yarn L: Fuchsia Purple 1827 x 1 ball ● 4mm hook ● Yarn needle TENSION Exact tension is not critical for this pattern. MEASUREMENTS Finished blanket is 70 x 70cm/ 27½ x 27½in. DESIGNER BIOGRAPHY Passionate about making cute designs for home and kids, Emma is known for her amazing use of colours. Find more of her work on Etsy at www.emmacrochet design4u.etsy.com or catch up with her on Instagram @Annaluciadu.

SPECIAL STITCHES Standing dc: Make a slip knot and put it on hk, insert hk in st to which you need to join new colour, yoh, pull through a lp, yoh and pull through to finish. Standing htr: Wrap new yarn around hk three times, insert hk in st, yoh, pull up a lp, yoh, pull it through first 3 lps. Extended treble crochet (etr): Yoh, insert hk in next st, yo and pull up a lp (3 lps on hk), yoh and draw through 1 lp, yoh and draw through 2 lps, yoh again and draw through rem 2 lps. Invisible join: Insert hk in second st from beginning (not the first st). Draw yarn through and insert hk in back lp of last st from this round. From the top, it looks like a normal “V” st, finishing the round perfectly. PATTERN NOTES All 60 motifs are worked the same until the end of rnd 4. Make the first four rounds of all motifs first. The last round is partly joined as you go. Work the last round in each of yarns E–L, making seven motifs with each of yarns F, H, J and L, and eight motifs with each of yarns E, G, I and K.

60 Inside Crochet

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FIG B

FIG A

Fig A: There are 22 lots of (1dc, 3ch, 1dc) worked on last round, one each on the top bottom and ten on either side as shown in the diagram. When connecting all motifs, the top and bottom one will be always missed. Fig B: This illustration shows connecting points for motifs. The top and bottom (1dc, 3ch, 1dc) will always be missed and can be used as guidelines to locate the connecting points for each row. Please note that the diagram does not show the whole blanket – there are actually eight rows with seven or eight motifs in each. Fig C: The black crochet chart symbol for each round indicates the standing stitch. PEACOCK MOTIF START Make 60 Note: Work rnds 1–4 of all motifs before working rnd 5, then work rnd 5 and join to other motifs as per Pattern Notes. With yarn A, make adjustable ring. Rnd 1: 2ch (does not count as st), 3dtr, 3tr, 1dtr, 3tr, 3dtr, 1ch (does not count as st), sl st in ring, fasten off – 13 sts. Rnd 2: With yarn B work 1 Standing htr (see Special Stitches) on top of first dtr, 1htr in same st, [2dc in next dtr] twice, 1tr, 2tr in next tr, 1tr, (1tr, 1etr (see Special Stitches), 1tr) in next dtr, 1tr, 2tr in next tr, 1tr, [2dc in next dtr] twice, 2htr in next dtr, 4etr in ring, finish round with invisible join (see Special Stitches) – 29 sts. Rnd 3: With yarn C, work Standing dc (see Special Stitches) on top of first of 4 etr from rnd 2, dc in each st around working 3dc in

centre “point” etr from rnd 2, finish with invisible join – 31 sts. Rnd 4: With yarn D, work Standing dc on top of dc made on top of fourth etr from rnd 2, 2dc in next dc, 1dc, 2dc in next dc, 2dc, 1htr, 2htr in next dc, (1htr, 1tr) in next dc, 1tr, 2etr in next dc, 1etr, 2etr in next dc, (1tr, 1etr, 1tr) in next dc, 2etr in next dc, 1etr, 2etr in next dc, 1tr, (1tr, 1htr) in next dc, 2htr in next dc, 1htr, 2dc, 2dc in next dc, 1dc, 2dc in next dc, 2dc, 2dc in next dc finish this round with invisible join – 46 sts. Rnd 5: With RS facing and yarns E–L as needed (see Pattern Notes), work Standing dc in second st away from middle etr from right, 3ch, 1dc in same st, miss next st, [(1dc, 3ch, 1dc) in next st, miss next st] around, sl st in first dc – 22 (1dc, 3ch, 1dc) loops.

FIG C

JOINING MOTIFS Work from top to bottom and from left to right. When reaching connecting points as shown in fig B, instead of working (1dc, 3ch, 1dc), work 1dc, 1ch, insert hook in connecting sp from counterpart motif and work sl st, 1ch, 1dc back in the same st again. Make sure you insert hk from back to front of counterpart motif. This ensures the connection will END be as smooth as possible. Weave in all ends.

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MAKE IT

Pattern instructions

Turn to page 24 for our guide to Tunisian crochet

Tunisian Striped Gadget Cosies BY SARAH REED

Earn your Tunisian stripes with our simple set of gadget cosies, worked using this issue’s free cover gift.

ADD TO THE STASH Buy this great value yarn from www.deramores.com

MATERIALS ● Deramores Studio DK, 100% acrylic, 100g/250m/273yds Yarn A: Pearl 70002 x 1 ball Yarn B: Peony 70003 x 1 ball Yarn C: Mustard 70058 x 1 ball ● 6mm Tunisian hook ● 4mm hook ● White button, 14mm/½in ● Two white buttons, 16mm/¾in ● Piece of foam for blocking ● Pins ● Spray bottle ● Yarn needle YARN ALTERNATIVES You can use any similar DK weight yarn to achieve a similar effect. TENSION Work 10 sts and 8 rows in Tss to measure 5 x 5cm/2 x 2in when blocked using 6mm Tunisian crochet hook, or size required to obtain tension. MEASUREMENTS Phone cosy: 7cm/2¾in wide x 15.5cm/6in long.

Tablet cosy: 17.5cm/ 7in wide x 28cm/11in long. DESIGNER BIOGRAPHY Sarah is a knitting and crochet designer who lives in Birmingham. You can follow her journey on her blog www.knitsnotperfect. blogspot.co.uk, Facebook page or Twitter @knitsnotperfect. SPECIAL STITCHES Tss: Tunisian simple stitch. Yrh: Yarn round hook; yarn is wrapped over the top of the hook from back to front and under the hook to back again ready for next stitch. RP: Return Pass. Sl st fasten off: Sl st on the vertical bar to the end of the row. PATTERN NOTES Both designs are worked in a large rectangle, which is then folded to form a pocket and sewn together, leaving a flap to secure the items in the cosy. The first stitch on each row is the one already on the hook at the end of the return pass.

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To make the colour changes, pull the yarn you are changing to through the last 2 sts on the return pass so that it is ready for the next row. Buttonholes are created by missing a Tss and working yarn round hook which counts as a loop on the hook for this row – the same number of loops should be on the hook after the return pass. PHONE COSY With 6mm Tunisian hook and yarn A, work 65ch. Foundation Row: Working in back bar of ch sts, pick up lp in second ch and ea ch to end – 65 sts. RP (see Special Stitches). Change to yarn B. Rows 1 & 2: 65Tss (see Special Stitches), RP. Change to yarn A. Row 3: 65Tss, RP. Change to yarn C. Row 4: 65Tss, RP. Row 5: 60Tss, miss Tss, yrh (see Special Stitches), 4Tss, RP. Row 6: 65Tss, RP.

Change to yarn A. Row 7: 65Tss, RP. Change to yarn B. Rows 8 & 9: 65Tss, RP. Change to yarn A. Row 10: 65Tss, RP. Sl st fasten off (see Special Stitches). Using 4mm crochet hook, join yarn A with a sl st to side of the phone cosy. Work dc along the short edge and fasten off. Repeat for other side.

START

MAKING UP Weave in any loose ends. Pin cosy flat onto foam and spray to block – this will help stop the work from curling. Leave to dry. Using the side without buttonholes, fold bottom flap to 15cm/6in length – this is the pocket the mobile phone will go into. Using yarn A and mattress stitch, sew the sides together. This will leave a 7.5cm/3in flap at the top of the cosy. Line the small button up with the

buttonhole and stitch in place. Weave in any remaining ends.

END

TABLET COSY With 6mm Tunisian hook and yarn A, work 110 ch. Foundation Row: Working in back bar of ch sts, pick up lp in second ch and ea ch to end – 110 sts. RP. Change to yarn C. Rows 1 & 2: 110Tss, RP. Change to yarn A. Row 3: 110Tss, RP. Change to yarn B. Row 4: 110Tss, RP. Row 5: 105Tss, miss Tss, yrh, 4Tss, RP. Row 6: 110Tss, RP. Change to yarn A. Row 7: 110Tss, RP. Change to yarn C. Rows 8–10: 110Tss, RP. Change to yarn A. Row 11: 110Tss, RP. Change to yarn B. Rows 12–15: 110Tss, RP. Change to yarn A. Row 16: 110Tss, RP. START

Change to yarn C. Rows 17–19: 110Tss, RP. Rows 20–27: Rep rows 4–11. Sl st fasten off. Using 4mm crochet hook, join yarn A with a sl st to side of the tablet cosy. Work dc along the short edge and fasten off. Repeat for other side. MAKING UP Weave in any loose ends. Pin cosy flat onto foam and spray to block – this will help stop the work from curling. Leave to dry. Using the side without buttonholes, fold bottom flap to 27.5cm/10¾in length – this is the pocket the tablet will go into. Using yarn A and mattress stitch, sew the sides together. This will leave a 10cm/4in flap at the top of the cosy. Line the larger buttons up with the buttonholes and stitch in place. END Weave in any remaining ends.

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MAKE IT

Pattern instructions MATERIALS ● DMC Woolly, 100% wool, 50g/125m/136yds Yarn A: 101 x 1 ball Yarn B: 061 x 1 ball Yarn C: 042 x 1 ball Yarn D: 092 x 1 ball Yarn E: 121 x 1 ball Yarn F: 017 x 1 ball Yarn G: 03 x 2 balls ● 2.5mm hook ● Foot stool, 35 x 45cm/13¾ x 17¾in, and 42cm/16½in high YARN ALTERNATIVES You can use any light DK yarn that works to the same tension for this project. TENSION Work one square to measure approximately 6 x 6cm/2¼ x 2¼in using 2.5mm hook, or size required to obtain tension. MEASUREMENTS Finished cover is 35 x 45cm/ 13¾ x 17¾in.

Block-by-Block Stool Cover

DESIGNER BIOGRAPHY Cassie loves adding personal finishing touches to her home and finds small crochet pieces a great way to do this. PATTERN NOTES This pattern is made up of 35 squares, seven in each colourway. The squares can be arranged in whatever pattern you desire.

BY CASSIE WARD

This pretty cover makes a lovely upcycling project for an old stool.

ADD TO THE STASH Buy this super-soft yarn from www.lovecrochet.co.uk

SPECIAL STITCHES 3trCL: (Yrh, insert hk in st, yrh pull through, yrh pull through 2 lps) three times in same st, (4 lps on hk), yrh pull through all 4 lps. 4trCL: (Yrh, insert hk in st, yrh pull through, yrh pull through 2 lps) four times in same st, (5 lps on hk), yrh pull through all 5 lps.

Change to yarn G. Rnd 3: Join in same sp, 1ch, 1dc, *2ch, working over 5ch so to enclose it work 1tr in next tr of rnd 1, 2ch, 1dc in top of next cluster; rep from * around work, sl st in first dc. Rnd 4: Sl st in next ch, 1ch, 1dc in same place, [3ch, 1dc in next sp] around, sl st in same place as first sl st. Rnd 5: Sl in next ch, 3ch, (1tr, 2ch, 2tr) in same 3ch-sp, *2ch, 1dc in next 3ch-sp, (3ch, 1dc in next 3ch-sp) twice, 2ch **, (2tr, 2ch, 2tr) in next 3ch-sp; rep from * twice more then from * to ** again, sl st in top of 3ch. Fasten off. Using yarn G, join squares into five rows of seven with wrong sides together, working 1dc through each dc along sides of squares for raised dc effect. EDGING Rnd 1: 1ch, 1dc in each dc or ch around, sl in top of 1ch, turn. Rnd 2: 1ch, dc around, sl st in top of 1ch, turn. Rnd 3: 1ch, 1dc in each ch around working dc2tog twice in each corner, sl st in top of ch, turn. Rnds 4–8: 1ch, dc around, sl st in top of 1ch, turn. Rnd 9: 1ch, dc in each dc around, working dc2tog seven times around each corner, sl st in top of ch, turn. Rnd 10: [1ch, 3dc, dc2tog] around. Rnd 11: Dc2tog around. END Stretch stool cover over top of stool.

SQUARE MOTIF Make 35 Using yarn A, 6ch and join with a sl st. Rnd 1: 5ch (counts as 1tr, 2ch), (1tr, 2ch) seven times, sl st in third of 5ch. Change to any of yarns B to F (make seven in each colourway). Rnd 2: 3ch, 3trCL (see Special Stitches) in next sp, (5ch, 4trCL (see Special Stitches) in next sp) seven times, 5ch, sl st in top of first cl. START

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ISSUE 84

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MAKE IT

Pattern instructions

Ellen the Elephant Blanket BY SAN BEE FOR LOOPSAN

ADD TO THE STASH Buy this super-soft yarn from www.wisebadger.com

This adorable blanket is great for boys and girls, worked in a snuggly Merino yarn.

MATERIALS ● Debbie Bliss Rialto DK, 100% wool, 50g/105m/115yds Yarn A: White 01 x 12 balls Yarn B: Grey 04 x 3 balls Yarn C: Charcoal 33 x 2 balls Yarn D: Banana 57 x 1 ball Yarn E: Black 03 x 1 ball ● 4mm & 4.5mm hooks YARN ALTERNATIVES You can use any DK weight wool yarn to achieve a similar effect. TENSION Work 15 blocks wide and 15 blocks deep in treble crochet to measure approximately 20 x 20cm/8 x 8in using 4.5mm hook, or size required to obtain tension. MEASUREMENTS Finished blanket is approximately 90 x 90cm/35½ x 35½in. DESIGNER BIOGRAPHY San likes designing crocheted pieces with a vintage feel and loads of texture. Find more of her designs at www.loopsan.com.

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A: White A: White

68

B: Grey B: Grey

C: Charcoal C: Charcoal

D: Banana D: Banana

E: Black E: Black

68

65 65

60

60

55 55

50 50

45

45

40

40

35

35

30

30 25

25 20

20 15

15 10

10 5

1

START5

1

5

10

15

1

5 10 START 1 PATTERN NOTES 2ch counts as 1 st. Pattern is worked as a traditional corner to corner square. Change colours according to chart on last pull through of last st in previous colour.

BLANKET With yarn A and 4.5mm hook, 6ch. Row 1: 1tr in fourth ch from START

20

15

25

20

30

25

35

30

hook, 1tr in each of next 2ch, turn – 1 block. Row 2: 6ch, 1tr in fourth ch from hook, 1tr in each of next 2ch, (sl st, 2ch, 3tr) in 2ch-sp from previous row, turn – 2 blocks. Row 3: 6ch, 1tr in fourth ch from hook, 1tr in each of next 2ch, [(sl st, 2ch, 3tr) in 2ch-sp from previous row] twice, turn – 3 blocks. Cont in this way until row 68,

40

35

45

40

50

45

working colour changes according to Chart. Decrease from row 69 onwards as folls: Row 69: Sl st across first tr, [(sl st, 2ch, 3tr) in 2ch-sp from previous row] in all 2ch-sps from previous row until last 2ch-sp, sl st in last 2ch-sp, turn – 67 blocks. Cont in this way until one block rems. Fasten off.

55

50

60

55

65

68

60

BORDER With 4mm hook and yarn A, start in any corner and work as folls: Rnd 1: 1dc in every tr and 2dc in every 2ch-sp, working (1dc, 1ch, 1dc) in each corner join. Rnd 2: 1ch, reverse dc (crab st) in every st around. Fasten off. FINISHING Weave in ends and block lightly.

65

END

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rib


MAKE IT

Pattern instructions MATERIALS ● Lion Brand Vanna’s Choice Baby, 100% acrylic, 100g/156m/171yds Yarn A: Goldfish 132 x 1 skein ● Lion Brand Vanna’s Choice, 100% acrylic, 100g/156m/171yds Yarn B: White 100 x 1 skein Yarn C: Black 153 x 1 skein (small amount only needed of yarn C) ● 5mm & 6mm hooks ● Yarn needle TENSION Beanie: Work 12 sts in body pattern to measure 10cm/4in using 6mm hook, or size required to obtain tension. Work tension swatch (below) to measure 11cm/4¼in using 6mm hook, or size required to obtain tension. Tension swatch With 6mm hook and yarn A, 14ch. Row 1: Tr in second ch from hook, (dc in next ch, tr in next ch) across, turn – 13 sts. Rows 2–4: 1ch, tr in first tr, (dc in next dc, tr in next tr) across. Fasten off.

Fox Headgear BY ASHLEY LEITHER

This fun design is worked as a beanie for tiny babies, and a cheery ear warmer for older children.

Ear Warmer: Work 13 sts in body pattern to measure 10cm/4in using 6mm hook, or size required to obtain tension. Work tension swatch (below) to measure 10cm/4in using 6mm hook, or size required to obtain tension. Tension swatch With 6mm hook and yarn A, 15ch. Row 1: Tr in fourth ch from hook (missed 3ch count as first tr), and in each ch across, turn – 13tr. Rows 2–4: 3ch (counts as first tr), tr in next 12tr. Fasten off. MEASUREMENTS Beanie fits age 0–3 (3–6, 6–9, 12) months. Circumference is 30 (33, 35, 38)cm/11¾ (13, 13¾, 15)in. Ear Warmer fits 24mths (2–4yrs, S, M, L). Circumference is 42 (44.5, 47, 49.5, 52)cm/16½ (17½, 18½, 19½, 20½)in.

This cute pattern is taken from Little Animals Headgear by Ashley Leither (Leisure Arts, £5.99, available from www.thegmcgroup.com).

DESIGNER BIOGRAPHY Ashley dabbled in crochet during high school, but her obsession didn’t start until about ten years later, when her daughter was given a crocheted hat as a gift. Visit her

Facebook page at www.facebook. com/AshleyDesignsCorner. SPECIAL STITCHES Foundation treble crochet (ftr): Yoh, insert hook under 2 loops of ch at base of previous ftr (fig 1), yoh and pull up a loop (3 loops on hook), yoh and draw through one loop on hook (ch made), (yoh and draw through 2 loops on hook) twice (ftr made). Raised treble front (rtrf): Yoh, insert hook from front to back around post of st indicated, yoh and pull up a loop (3 loops on hook), (yoh and draw through 2 loops on hook) twice (figs 2 & 3). BEANIE SHAPING Rnd 1: (RS) With 6mm hook and yarn A, make an adjustable ring; work 7dc in ring; join with sl st to first dc. Rnd 2: 1ch, htr in same st as joining, 2htr in each of next 6dc, htr in same st as first htr; join with sl st to first htr – 14htr. Rnd 3: 1ch, htr in same st as joining and in next htr, (2htr in next htr, htr in next htr) around, htr in same st as first htr; join with sl st to first htr – 21htr. Rnd 4: 1ch, htr in same st as joining and in next 2htr, (2htr in next htr, htr in next 2htr) around, htr in same st as first htr; join with sl st to first htr – 28htr. Rnd 5: 1ch, htr in same st as joining and in next 3htr, (2htr in next htr, htr in next 3htr) around, htr in same st as first htr; join with sl st to first htr – 35htr. START

Size 3–6 Mths Only Rnd 6: 1ch, htr in same st as joining and in next 7htr, (2htr in next htr, htr in next 8htr) around, htr in same st as first htr; join with sl st to first htr – 39htr. Size 6–9 Mths Only Rnd 6: 1ch, htr in same st as joining and in next 4htr, (2htr in next htr, htr in next 4htr) around; join with sl st to first htr – 41htr. Size 12 Mths Only Rnd 6: 1ch, htr in same st as joining and in next 4htr, (2htr in next htr, htr in next 4htr) around; join with sl st to first htr – 41htr.

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next 3dc, turn, leaving remaining dc unworked. Row 3: 1ch, miss first dc, dc in next 2dc, turn. Row 4: 1ch, miss first dc, dc in last dc. Edging: (RS) Dc in end of each row across; working in free loops of beginning ch, 2dc in first ch, dc in next 3ch, 2dc in next ch; dc in end of each row across; join with sl st to first dc. Fasten off leaving a long end for sewing. EYE Make two Rnd 1: (RS) With 6mm hook and yarn C, make an adjustable loop to form a ring, work 7dc in ring; join with sl st to first dc, finish off leaving a long end for sewing. ASSEMBLY Use photo as a guide for placement of all pieces. Sew the Nose to the front of the Body (joining is centre back) with the tip at the bottom edge. Sew the Eyes to the Body. END Sew the Ears across rnds 4 –6 of the Beanie. EAR WARMER BODY Rnd 1: (RS) With 6mm hook, yarn A, and leaving a long end for sewing, 4ch (counts as first st), yoh, insert hook in fourth ch from hook, yoh and pull up a loop (3 loops on hook), yoh and draw through one loop on hook (ch made), (yoh and draw through 2 loops on hook) twice (ftr made), work ftr (see Special Stitches) for a total of 54 (57, 60, 63, 67) sts; join with sl st to first st. Rnd 2: 1ch, work rtrf (see Special Stitches) around post of each st around; join with sl st to first rtrf. Repeat rnd 2 until Body measures 6.5cm/2½in from beginning. Fasten off.

FIG 1

FIG 2

FIG 3

START

Rnd 7: 1ch, htr in same st as joining and in next 10htr, (2htr in next htr, htr in next 9htr) around, htr in same st as first htr; join with sl st to first htr – 45htr. All Sizes BODY Rnd 1: 1ch, tr in same st as joining, (dc in next st, tr in next st) around; join with sl st to first tr. Repeat rnd 1 until Beanie measures 10 (11.5, 12.5, 14)cm/4 (4½, 5, 5½)in from beginning. Fasten off. Next Rnd: With RS facing, join yarn B with sl st in same st as joining; 1ch, tr in same st, (dc in next st, tr in next st) around; join with sl st to first tr. Repeat rnd 1 until Beanie measures 14 (15, 16.5, 18)cm/5½ (6, 6½, 7)in from beginning. Fasten off. EAR Make two With 5mm hook and yarn B, 7ch. Row 1: (Bottom edge) Dc in second ch from hook and in each ch across, turn – 6dc.

Row 2: 1ch, miss first dc, dc in next 4dc, turn, leaving remaining dc unworked. Row 3: 1ch, miss first dc, dc in next 3dc, turn. Row 4: 1ch, miss first dc, dc in next 2dc, turn. Row 5: 1ch, miss first dc, dc in last dc; do not fasten off. EDGING Rnd 1: (RS) Dc in end of each row across; working in free loops of beginning ch (fig 4), 2dc in first ch, dc in next 4ch, 2dc in next ch; dc in end of each row across; join with sl st to first dc. Fasten off. Rnd 2: With RS facing, join yarn A with sl st in second dc of first 2dc group on bottom edge; 1ch, dc in each dc around; join with sl st to first dc. Fasten off leaving a long end for sewing. NOSE Use 6mm hook and yarn A, 6ch. Row 1: Dc in second ch from hook and in each ch across, turn – 5 dc. Row 2: 1ch, miss first dc, dc in

Next Rnd: With RS facing, join yarn B with sl st in same st as joining; 1ch, work rtrf around post of each st around; join with sl st to first rtrf. Repeat rnd 2 until Body measures approximately 9 (9, 9, 10, 10)cm/ 3½ (3½, 3½, 4, 4)in from beginning. Last Rnd: (Bottom edge) Sl st

FIG 4

loosely in each rtrf around; join with sl st to first sl st. Fasten off. Using beginning end, sew bottom of first and last st together. Make Ears and Eyes as for Beanie. Make Nose as for Beanie, but using 5mm hook. ASSEMBLY Use photo as a guide for placement of all pieces. Sew the Nose to the front of the Body (joining is centre back) with the tip at the bottom edge. Sew the Eyes to the Body. END Sew the Ears to the top edge. www.insidecrochet.co.uk 71

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MAKE IT

Pattern instructions MATERIALS ● Debbie Bliss Baby Cashmerino, 55% wool/33% acrylic/ 12% cashmere, 50g/125m/137yds Yarn A: Silver 12 x 2 balls Yarn B: Indigo 207 x 1 ball Yarn C: Navy 08 x 1 ball Yarn D: Amber 66 x 1 ball Yarn E: White 100 x 1 ball Yarn F: Black 300 x 1 ball (small amounts only needed of yarns E and F) ● 3.5mm hook ● Yarn needle ● Safety pin ● Safety eyes, 1cm/½in ● Polyester toy stuffing ● Light pink embroidery thread ● Two buttons, 9mm/¼in ● Safety pin ● Elastic cord, 30cm/12in long TENSION Exact tension is not crucial for this pattern. MEASUREMENTS Fred Mouse is 30cm/12in tall. DESIGNER BIOGRAPHY Emma has been designing stylish knitting and crochet patterns for many years. On her award-winning blog at www.emmavarnam.co.uk she features many of her free patterns and discusses the inspiration behind them.

Fred Mouse BY EMMA VARNAM

Fred is never happier than when he is outside playing ball games with his friends – why not make his rugby shirt in the colours of your favourite team?

This sweet design is taken from Cute Crocheted Animals by Emma Varnam (GMC £12.99, available from www.thegmcgroup.com). Turn to page 12 for our review.

SPECIAL STITCHES Dc2inc: 2dc into next stitch. EARS Make two Using 3.5mm hook and yarn A, make an adjustable ring. Rnd 1: 1ch, 6dc into the centre of the ring – 6 sts. Rnd 2: 2dc in every st – 12 sts. Rnd 3: (1dc, dc2inc (see Special Stitches)) six times – 18 sts. Rnd 4: (2dc, dc2inc) six times – 24 sts. Rnds 5–8: 1dc each st around. Rnd 9: (2dc, dc2tog) six times – 18 sts. Rnd 10: (1dc, dc2tog) six times – 12 sts. Rnds 11 & 12: 1dc in each st around. Fasten off, leaving a 20cm/8in tail of yarn. Flatten ear. Using the yarn tail, sew these layers together. START

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HEAD Using 3.5mm hook and yarn A, make an adjustable ring. Rnd 1: 1ch, 8dc into the centre of the ring – 8 sts. Rnd 2: (1dc, dc2inc) four times – 12 sts. Rnd 3: (2dc, dc2inc) four times – 16 sts. Rnd 4: (3dc, dc2inc) four times – 20 sts. Rnd 5: (4dc, dc2inc) four times – 24 sts. Rnd 6: (5dc, dc2inc) four times – 28 sts. Rnd 7: (6dc, dc2inc) four times – 32 sts. Rnd 8: (7dc, dc2inc) four times – 36 sts. Rnd 9: (8dc, dc2inc) four times 40 sts. Rnd 10: (9dc, dc2inc) four times – 44 sts. Rnd 11: (10dc, dc2inc) four times – 48 sts. Rnds 12–17: Work six rounds straight. MAKE SLOTS FOR EARS Rnd 18: 16dc, 5ch, miss 5 sts, 6dc, 5ch, miss 5 sts, 16dc. Rnd 19: 1dc in each dc and each ch. Rnd 20: Work one round straight. Rnd 21: (6dc, dc2tog) six times – 42 sts. Rnd 22: (5dc, dc2tog) six times – 36 sts. Rnd 23: (4dc, dc2tog) six times – 30 sts. Rnd 24: (3dc, dc2tog) six times – 24 sts. Stop at this point. Put a safety pin on your working loop. Using the photographs as a guide, position and secure the safety eyes on the head. Then place the base of the ears in each ear slot and sew on firmly. Stuff the head firmly. Then return to finishing the decreasing, putting the working loop back on your hook. Rnd 25: (2dc, dc2tog) six times – 18 sts. Rnd 26: (1dc, dc2tog) six times – 12 sts. Rnd 27: Dc2tog to end – 6 sts. Fasten off. Finish stuffing the head. Then use the yarn tail to gather and secure the last 6 sts.

Using the photograph as a guide, stitch the nose using satin stitch (see diagram, right) with light pink embroidery thread. ARMS Make two Using 3.5mm hook and yarn A, make 12ch, join with sl st to make a ring. Rnd 1: 1ch, dc into first ch, dc in each ch to end – 12 sts. Rnd 2: (2dc, dc2inc) four times – 16 sts. Rnd 3: (3dc, dc2inc) four times – 20 sts. Rnds 4–12: Work nine rounds straight. Rnd 13: (3dc, dc2tog) four times – 16 sts. Rnds 14–20: Work seven rounds straight. Rnd 21: (2dc, dc2tog) four times – 12 sts. Rnds 22–24: Work three rounds straight. Rnd 25: (4dc, dc2tog) twice – 10 sts. Rnd 26: Work one round. Fasten off. Fold the arm in half and sew starting ch together to form the paw. Stuff both arms. FEET & LEGS Make two Using 3.5mm hook and yarn A, make 8ch; work around this central ch to make an oval base to the foot. Rnd 1: Dc in second ch from hook, 1dc in each of next 6dc, 2ch, 1dc in other side of each ch, 2ch, join with a sl st to first ch – 18 sts. Rnd 2: 1ch, 7dc, 3dc in ch-sp, 7dc, 3dc in ch-sp, join with a sl st to first ch – 20 sts. Rnd 3: 1ch, 7dc, dc2inc in each 3 end dc sts, 7dc, dc2inc in each 3 end dc sts, join with a sl st to 1ch – 26 sts. Rnd 4: 1ch, work 1dc in the back loop of each dc, join with a sl st to first ch. Now work in a continuous spiral, placing a marker in the last st of the round. Rnds 5–7: Work three rounds straight. Rnd 8: 8dc, (dc2tog) three times, 12dc – 23 sts. Rnd 9: 8dc, dc3tog, 10dc,

dc2tog – 20 sts. Rnds 10–27: Work 18 rounds straight. Fasten off, leaving a 20cm/8in tail of yarn. Fill each foot and leg firmly with stuffing. Fold the top of the leg widthwise. You will now use the stitches at the top of the leg to start working the body. BODY Attach yarn B to the back of the left leg, work 20dc, then attach the right leg by working 20dc from right leg. Now work in continuous spirals – 40 sts. Rnd 1: Work one round straight – 40 sts. Rnd 2: (9dc, dc2inc) four times – 44 sts. Rnd 3: Work one round straight. Rnd 4: (10dc, dc2inc) four times – 48 sts. Rnds 5–8: Work four rounds straight. Change to yarn A. Rnds 9 & 10: Work two rounds straight. Rnd 11: (10dc, dc2tog) four times – 44 sts. Rnds 12–15: Work four rounds straight. Rnd 16: (9dc, dc2tog) four times – 40 sts. Rnds 17–20: Work four rounds straight. Rnd 21: (8dc, dc2tog) four times – 36 sts. Rnds 22–25: Work four rounds straight. Rnd 26: (7dc, dc2tog) four times – 32 sts. In the next round you will place the arms, working through the top stitches of the arms. Rnd 27: 6dc, fold the first arm in half, (dc through two layers of the arm and the next dc st) five times, 11dc, (dc through two layers of the arm and the next dc st) five times, 5dc – 32 sts. Rnd 28: Work one round straight. Fasten off, leaving a 20cm/8in tail of yarn. Using a yarn needle, weave this yarn through the last dc sts of the round and gather the hole together slightly to create

SATIN STITCH

a 10cm/4in diameter neck edge. Stuff the feet, legs and body firmly and sew the head firmly to the top of the body. TAIL Using 3.5mm hook and yarn A, make an adjustable ring. Rnd 1: 1ch, 8dc into the centre of the ring – 8 sts. Rnd 2: 1dc in each st around. Continue to work in a continuous spiral until the tail measures 10cm/4in. Fasten off, leaving a tail of yarn. Sew the tail firmly to the back of the mouse. RUGBY SHIRT BACK Using 3.5mm hook and yarn C, 27ch. Row 1: 1dc in second ch from hook, dc to end, turn – 26 sts. Row 2: 1ch, 1dc in each st to end, turn. Rows 3 & 4: Change to yarn D, rep row 2. Rows 5 & 6: Change to yarn C, rep row 2. Rows 7–14: Rep row 2, changing colours every two rows to create a stripe, end with a row of yarn C. Row 15: Change to yarn D, 1ch, miss 1 st, 1dc in each st to end, turn – 25 sts. Row 16: 1ch, miss 1 st, 1dc in each st to end, turn – 24 sts. Row 17: Change to yarn C, sl st across 3 sts, (sl st, 1ch, 1dc) in next st, 17dc, turn – 18 sts. Row 18: 1ch, 1dc in each st to end, turn. Row 19: Change to yarn D, 1ch, miss 1 st, dc to last 2 sts, miss 1 st, dc in last st, turn – 16 sts. Row 20: 1ch, 1dc in each st to end, turn. Rows 21 & 22: Change to yarn C, 1ch, 1dc in each st to end, turn. Row 23: Change to yarn D, 1ch, www.insidecrochet.co.uk 73

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MAKE IT

Pattern instructions Row 24: Sl st across 3 sts, (sl st, 1ch, 1dc) in next st, 1dc – 2 sts. Fasten off and weave in ends. LEFT OPENING Join with yarn C at the centre opening on row 13 with a sl st. Row 13: 1ch, 11dc, turn – 11 sts. Row 14: 1ch, 1dc in each st to end, turn. Row 15: Change to yarn D, 1ch, 1dc in each st to end, turn. Row 16: 1ch, 1dc in each st to end, turn. Row 17: Change to yarn C, 1ch, 8dc, turn – 8 sts. Row 18: 1ch, 1dc in each st to end, turn. Row 19: Change to yarn D, 1ch, 6dc, miss 1 st, 1dc, turn – 7 sts. Row 20: 1ch, 1dc in each st to end, turn. Row 21: Change to yarn C, 1ch, 5dc, miss 1 st, 1dc, turn – 6 sts. Row 22: 1ch, 1dc in each st to end, turn. Row 23: Change to yarn D, 1ch, miss 1 st, 5dc, turn – 5 sts. Row 24: 1ch, 2dc – 2 sts. Fasten off and weave in ends. PLACKET Using 3.5mm hook and yarn E, join yarn at base of left opening with a sl st. Row 1: Work 8dc evenly up the left-hand opening of the front, turn – 8 sts. Rows 2–4: 1ch, 8dc, turn. Fasten off, leaving a 30cm/12in tail of yarn. Use this yarn tail to sew the base bottom edge of the placket opening to the inside of the jumper.

miss 1 st, dc to last 2 sts, miss 1 st, dc in last st, turn – 14 sts. Row 24: 1ch, 2dc, 10 sl sts, (sl st, 1ch, 1dc) in next st, 1dc. Fasten off and weave in ends. FRONT Using 3.5mm hook and yarn C, 27ch. Row 1: 1dc in second ch from hook, dc to end, turn – 26 sts. Row 2: 1ch, 1dc in each st to end, turn. Rows 3 & 4: Change to yarn D, rep row 2. Rows 5 & 6: Change to yarn C, rep row 2.

Rows 7–12: Rep row 2, changing colours every two rows to create a stripe, end with a row of yarn D. You will now work in two sections for the neck opening. RIGHT OPENING Row 13: Change to yarn C, 1ch, 15dc, turn – 15 sts. Row 14: 1ch, 1dc in each st to end, turn. Row 15: Change to yarn D, 1ch, 12dc, 2ch, miss 2 sts, 1dc, turn. Row 16: 1ch, 1dc, 1dc in each of next 2ch, 1dc in each st to end, turn. Row 17: Change to yarn C, sl st

across 3 sts, (sl st, 1ch, 1dc) in next st, 11dc, turn – 12 sts. Row 18: 1ch, 1dc in each st to end, turn. Row 19: Change to yarn D, 1ch, miss 1 st, 8dc, 2ch, miss 2 sts, 1dc, turn – 11 sts. Row 20: 1ch, 1dc, 1dc in each of next 2ch, 6dc, miss 1 st, dc in last st, turn – 10 sts. Row 21: Change to yarn C, 1ch, 7dc, turn – 7 sts. Row 22: 1ch, miss 1 st, 6dc, turn – 6 sts. Row 23: Change to yarn D, 1ch, 4dc, miss 1 st, dc in last st, turn – 5 sts.

COLLAR To crochet the collar you first have to sew the Front pieces to the Back piece on the neckline. With RS facing, sew together two stitches either side of the neck edge of the Front and Back. Row 1: Using 3.5mm hook and yarn E, join yarn at base of left opening with a sl st at right edge of the left opening on row 21. Work 7dc evenly along left front neck edge, 12dc across the back and 7dc along right neck edge, turn – 26 sts. Rows 2–4: 1ch, 1dc in each st to end, turn. Fasten off and weave in ends.

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SLEEVES Make two Using 3.5mm hook and yarn C, 21ch. Row 1: 1dc in second ch from hook, dc to end, turn – 20 sts. Row 2: 1ch, 1dc in each st to end, turn. Rows 3 & 4: Change to yarn C, rep row 2. Rows 5 & 6: Change to yarn D, rep row 2. Rows 7–12: Work six rows in stripe pattern ending with a row in yarn C. Row 13: Change to yarn D, sl st across 3 sts, (sl st, 1ch, 1dc) in next st, 13dc, turn – 14 sts. Row 14: 1ch, miss 1 st, dc to last 2 sts, miss 1 st, dc in last st, turn – 12 sts. Row 15: Change to yarn C, 1ch, miss 1 st, dc to last 2 sts, miss 1 st, dc in last st, turn – 10 sts. Row 16: 1ch, miss 1 st, dc to last 2 sts, miss 1 st, dc in last st, turn – 8 sts. Row 17: Change to yarn D, 1ch, miss 1 st, dc to last 2 sts, miss 1 st, dc in last st, turn – 6 sts. Row 18: 1ch, miss 1 st, dc to last 2 sts, miss 1 st, dc in last st, turn – 4 sts. Row 19: Change to yarn C, 1ch, 1dc in each st to end, turn. Fasten off and weave in ends. FINISHING Sew the sleeve seams to the front and back. Sew the side seams of the front and back together and then up each sleeve seam on each side. Make sure the stripes match along the seams. Sew two small buttons on the white placket to correspond to the buttonholes. SHORTS Using 3.5mm hook and yarn E, 28ch, join with a sl st to make a loop. Work in continuous rounds. FIRST LEG Rnd 1: 1ch, 1dc in every ch – 28 sts. Rnds 2–12: Work 11 rounds straight. Fasten off. SECOND LEG Make a second leg exactly the same but do not fasten off.

Place marker. Rnd 13: Join second leg by working across the 28 sts of the first leg and then the 28 sts of the second leg – 56 sts. Rnds 14–16: Work three rounds straight. Rnd 17: 1dc in every st until 2 sts before the marker, 2ch, place marker, miss 2 sts. Rnd 18: 2ch, miss 2 sts (4 sts missed in total), 1dc in next st, 9dc, dc2tog, (8dc, dc2tog) four times, 1dc in each of next 2ch – 51 sts. Rnd 19: 1dc in each of next 2ch, 1dc in every st. Rnds 20–22: Work three rounds straight. Rnd 23: 1dc, (8dc, dc2tog) five times – 46 sts. Rnds 24–30: Work seven rounds straight. Fasten off, leaving a 30cm/12in tail of yarn.

placing a marker in the last st of the round. Rnds 5–7: Work three rounds straight. Rnd 8: 8dc, (dc2tog) three times, 12dc – 23 sts. Rnd 9: 8dc, dc3tog, 10 dc, dc2tog – 20 sts. Rnds 10: Sl st in every st. Fasten off and weave in ends. Using a small amount of yarn F, make a small bow and sew it firmly onto the front of the trainer. Using a tail of yarn, sew a small stitch below the bow for the laces. RUGBY BALL Using 3.5mm hook and yarn E, make an adjustable ring. Rnd 1: 1ch, 4dc into centre of the ring – 4 sts. Rnd 2: *Dc2inc; rep from * to end of round – 8 sts.

Rnd 3: *1dc, dc2inc; rep from * to end of round – 12 sts. Rnd 4: *2dc, dc2inc; rep from * to end of round – 16 sts. Rnd 5: *3dc, dc2inc; rep from * to end of round – 20 sts. Rnds 6–10: Work five rounds straight. Rnd 11: *3dc, dc2tog; rep from * to end of round – 16 sts. Rnd 12: *2dc, dc2tog; rep from * to end of round – 12 sts. Rnd 13: *1dc, dc2tog; rep from * to end of round – 8 sts. Rnd 14: *Dc2tog; rep from * to end of round – 4 sts. Fasten off. Stuff with polyester toy stuffing. Using the yarn tail, weave through the last 4 sts and tighten. Using an oddment of yarn F, embroider a stitch END pattern on the rugby ball.

FINISHING With WS facing, fold over the top of the shorts to create a waistband, and use the tail of yarn to sew the edge of the waistband to the inside of the shorts. Leave a small gap. Use a safety pin to thread some elastic cord through the waistband through the gap. Gather the waistband slightly and knot the ends of the elastic together, poke the elastic into the gap so that it is hidden within the waistband, then sew the gap down. TRAINERS Make two Using 3.5mm hook and yarn E, make 8ch; work around this central ch to make an oval base to the foot. Rnd 1: Dc in second ch from hook, 1dc in each of next 6dc, 2ch, 1dc in other side of each ch, 2ch, join with a sl st to first ch. Rnd 2: 1ch, 7dc, 3dc in ch-sp, 7dc, 3dc in ch-sp, join with a sl st to first ch – 20 sts. Rnd 3: 1ch, 7dc, dc2inc in each 3 end dc sts, 7dc, dc2inc in each 3 end dc sts, join with a sl st to 1ch – 26 sts. Rnd 4: 1ch, work 1dc in the back loop of each dc, join with a sl st to first ch. Now work in a continuous spiral, www.insidecrochet.co.uk 75

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MATERIALS ● Debbie Bliss Rialto 4ply, 100% wool, 50g/180m/197yds Yarn A: Red 09 x 1 (2, 2, 2) ball(s) Yarn B: Denim 13 x 1 (1, 1, 2) ball(s) Yarn C: White 01 x 1 ball ● Debbie Bliss Cotton DK, 100% cotton, 50g/84m/92yds Yarn D: Citrus 79 x 1 ball Yarn E: Peach 80 x 1 ball ● Patons Fairytale Cloud DK, 100% polyester, 25g/82m/90yds Yarn F: Pastel Blue 52 x 2 balls ● Rooster Baby Rooster, 100% Merino wool, 50g/125m/136yds Yarn G: Vintage Rose 407 x 1 ball ● 4mm hook ● Four 1.5cm/½in buttons YARN ALTERNATIVES This is a great way of using up leftover part balls from other projects. It’s been worked out to use DK weights but as stated in the pattern you can also use 4ply held doubled to make a DK thickness, so let your imagination run free and get creating!

PATTERN NOTES 4ply yarn is always used held doubled to create a DK weight yarn. There is a chart for each size as well as written instructions as the number of rows/stitches, colour changes and stitch sizes change to create sizing. Due to spacing issues, the charts for sizes 12–18 mths and 24–36 mths have not been printed here. Please email rhian@ tailormadepublishing.co.uk if you want us to send you the charts for these sizes. Work Foundation Ladder followed by centre front neckline rows. Next work from the top down, making the Yoke, Body and Skirt rows – these are numbered consecutively, there is a reference chart but the repeats and numbering are in the written instructions. Next work Hem Trim, then make sleeves, then work Front Ladder Surface Double Crochet. FOUNDATION LADDER With 4mm hook and yarn A, 219 (228, 249, 264)ch. START

Boho Baby Cardigan BY TWINKLE DESIGN CO-OP

Fancy a challenge? Try out some new stitches with this colourful piece for the fabulous little bohemian in your life.

TENSION Because the nature of this garment is so varied a tension square is not really applicable. However the sample garment measures 17 sts to 10cm/4in using a 4mm hook. For a longer garment just add another row in the body or skirt. That’s bohemian measuring! DESIGNER BIOGRAPHY Follow Twinkle Design Co-op on Instagram @jacinta_bowie or visit their website at www.knitweardesignjbowie.co.uk. SPECIAL ABBREVIATIONS CF: Centre front. Rdtrb: Raised double treble back. Rdcb: Raised double crochet back. Rtrb2tog: 2 raised triple back together decrease. Rhtrb: Raised half treble back. Rhtrf: Raised half treble front. Rtrb: Raised treble back. SPECIAL STITCH PATTERNS Corner Turn: 2dtr in next ch-sp, trtr in corner space, 2dtr in next ch-sp working all sts leaving last lp on hk, last yrh pull through all 6 sts – 5 sts worked together. 3ch-picot: 3ch, sl st to base of ch.

Sizes 0–3 and 6–9 Mths Only Row 1: 1htr in ninth ch from hk, [2ch, miss 2 ch, 1htr] 16 (17) times, 2ch, (1htr, 5ch, 1htr) in same ch, [2ch, miss 2 ch, 1htr] twice, miss 5 ch, 1htr, [2ch, miss 2 ch, 1htr] three times, 3ch, miss 2 ch, 1htr (pm in this sp to indicate shoulder), [2ch, miss 2 ch, 1htr] three times, miss 5 ch, 1htr, [2ch, miss 2 ch, 1htr] nine (ten) times, miss 5 ch, 1htr, [2ch, miss 2 ch, 1htr] three times, 3ch, miss 2 ch, 1htr (pm in this sp to indicate shoulder), [2ch, miss 2 ch, 1htr] three times, miss 5 ch, 1htr, 2ch, miss 2 ch, 1htr, 2ch, (1htr, 5ch, 1htr) in same st, [2ch, miss 2 ch, 1htr] 18 (19) times. Sizes 12–18 & 24–26 Mths Only Row 1: 1tr in ninth ch from hk, [2ch, miss 2 ch, 1tr] 18 (19) times, 2ch, (1tr, 5ch, 1tr) in same ch, [2ch, miss 2 ch, 1tr] three times, miss 5 ch, 1tr, [2ch, miss 2 ch, 1tr] four times, 3ch, miss 2 ch, 1tr (pm in this sp to indicate shoulder), [2ch, miss 2 ch, 1tr] three (four) times, miss 5 ch, 1tr, [2ch, miss 2 ch, 1tr] 11 (12) times, miss 5 ch, 1tr, [2ch, miss 2 ch, 1tr] three (four) times, 3ch, miss 2 ch, 1tr (pm in this sp to indicate shoulder), [2ch, miss www.insidecrochet.co.uk 77

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MAKE IT

Pattern instructions

months 0–30-3months

6 7

9 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18

2 ch, 1tr] four times, miss 5 ch, 1tr, [2ch, miss 2 ch, 1tr] twice, 2ch, (1tr, 5ch, 1tr) in same st, [2ch, miss 2 ch, 1tr] 20 (21) times. Centre Front and Neckline Size 0–3 Mths Only With yarn B with RS facing starting at hem CF (see Special Abbreviations) edge of Right Front, join yarn in turning space of foundation ladder.

Row 2: 2ch (counts as first htr), 2htr in first ch-sp, 2htr in each of next 17 2ch-sps, 3htr in 5ch-sp, work 2dc along side of tr just worked to turn corner, 2dc in same 5ch-sp, (1htr, 1dtr in next ch-sp), corner turn (see Special Stitch Patterns), (1dtr, 1tr) in next ch-sp, (1tr, 1htr) in next ch-sp, 3dc in 3ch-sp, pm in centre st, (1htr, 1tr) in next ch-sp, (1tr, 1dtr) in next ch-sp, corner turn, (1dtr, 1tr) in next ch-sp, (1tr, 1htr) in next ch-sp,

[2htr in next ch-sp] three times, (1htr, 1tr) in next ch-sp, (1tr, 1dtr) in next ch-sp, corner turn, (1dtr, 1tr) in ch-sp, (1tr, 1htr) in next ch-sp, 3dc in 3ch-sp pm in centre st, (1htr, 1tr) in next ch-sp, (1tr, 1dtr) in next ch-sp, corner turn, (1dtr, 1htr) in next ch-sp, (2dc, 2ch, 3htr) in same 5ch-sp, 2htr in each of next 18 2ch-sps, 1tr in end tr. Fasten off. With yarn D and RS facing, starting at hem CF edge of Right Front, join yarn to end of ch.

Row 3: 1ch, 1rdcb (see Special Abbreviations) in same sp as ch, 39rdcb, 1dc in side of dc just worked, 5rdcb, 6rhtrb (see Special Abbreviations), 2dc blo in next st, 1rdcb (move shoulder marker), 2dc blo in next st, 2rhtrb, [rtrb2tog] (see Special Abbreviations) three times, 8rhtrb, [rtrb2tog] three times, 2rhtrb, 2dc blo in next st, rdcb (move shoulder marker), 2dc blo in next st, 6rhtrb, 3rdcb, 3dc in

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16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24

0–3 months

6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18

side of end ch, 40rdcb, fasten off. With yarn G and RS facing, starting at hem CF edge of Right Front join yarn to end of ch. Row 4: 1ch (does not count as st), 38rdcb, 2dc blo, 5rdcb, 8rhtrb, 3dc blo, 2rhtrb, [rtrb2tog] twice, 8rhtrb, [rtrb2tog] twice, 2rhtrb, 3dc blo, 8rhtrb, 5rdcb, 2dc blo, 38rdcb. Fasten off. With yarn A and RS facing, starting at hem CF edge of Right Front, join yarn to end of ch. Row 5: 2ch (does not count as st), 19rhtrb, 2rtrb, 2ch, [5rtrb, 2ch] three times, 2rtrb, 1rhtrb, dc in side of htr just worked, 19rdcb, rtrb2tog, 8rtrb, rtrb2tog, 19rdcb, 1ch, 1rhtrb, 19rtrb, 19rhtrb. Fasten off. Size 6–9 Mths Only With yarn B and RS facing, starting at hem CF (see Special Abbreviations) edge of Right Front, join yarn in turning space of foundation ladder.

Row 2: 3ch (counts as first tr), 2tr in first ch-sp, (2tr in each ch-sp) 18 times, 3tr in last CF space, 2dc along side of last tr to turn corner, 2dc in corner ch-sp, (htr, dtr) in next ch-sp, corner turn (see Special Stitch Patterns), (1dtr, 1tr) in next ch-sp, (1tr, 1htr) in next ch-sp, 3dc in shoulder ch-sp, pm in centre st, (1htr, 1tr) in next ch-sp, (1tr, 1dtr) in next ch-sp, corner, (1dtr, 1tr) in next ch-sp, (1tr, 1htr) in next ch-sp, [2htr in ch-sp] four times, (1htr, 1tr) in next ch-sp, (1tr, 1dtr) in next ch-sp, corner turn, (1dtr, 1tr) in next ch-sp, (1tr, 1htr) in next ch-sp, 3dc in shoulder ch-sp, pm in centre st, (1htr, 1tr) in next ch-sp, (1tr, 1dtr) in next ch-sp, corner turn, (1dtr, 1htr) in next ch-sp, 2dc, 3ch, 3tr in corner ch, [2tr in each ch-sp] nineteen times, 1tr in end tr. Fasten off. With RS facing, starting at hem CF edge of Right Front, join in yarn D to end of ch.

Row 3: 1ch, 1rdcb (see Special Abbreviations) in same sp as ch, 41rdcb, 1dc in side of dc just worked, 5rdcb, 6rhtrb (see Special Abbreviations), 2dc blo in next st, rdcb (move shoulder marker), 2dc blo in next st, 2rtrb, [rtrb2tog] (see Special Abbreviations) three times, 10rtrb, [rtrb2tog] three times, 2rtrb, 2dc blo in next st, rdcb (move shoulder marker), 2dc blo in next st, 6rhtrb, 3rdcb, 3dc in side of end ch, 42rdcb, fasten off. With RS facing starting at hem CF edge of Right Front join in yarn G to end of ch. Row 4: 2ch, 40rhtrb, 2dc blo, 5rdcb, 8rhtrb, 3dc blo, 2rhtrb, [rtrb2tog] twice, 10rhtrb, [rtrb2tog] twice, 2rhtrb, 3dc blo, 8rhtrb, 5rdcb, 2dc blo, 40rhtrb. Fasten off. With RS facing starting at hem CF edge of Right Front join in yarn A to end of ch. Row 5: 2ch, 21rhtrb, 2rtrb, 2ch, [5rtrb, 2ch] three times, 2rtrb, 1rhtrb, 1dc in side of htr, 19rdcb, rtrb2tog, 10rtrb, rtrb2tog, 19rdcb, 1ch, 1rhtrb, 19rtrb, 21rhtrb. Fasten off. Size 12–18 Mths Only With yarn B and RS facing, starting at hem CF (see Special Abbreviations) edge of Right Front, join yarn in turning space of foundation ladder. Row 2: 3ch (counts as first tr), 2tr in first ch-sp, (2tr in each ch-sp) nineteen times, 3tr in last CF space, 2dc along side of last tr to turn corner, 2dc in corner ch-sp, (1htr, 1tr) in next ch-sp, (1tr, 1dtr) in next ch-sp, corner turn (see Special Stitch Patterns), (1dtr, 1tr) in next ch-sp, (1tr, 1htr) in next ch-sp, 2dc in ch-sp, 3dc in shoulder ch-sp pm in centre st, (1htr, 1tr) in next ch-sp, (1tr, 1dtr) in next ch-sp, corner turn,

(1dtr, 1tr) in next ch-sp, (1tr, 1htr) in next ch-sp, [2htr in ch-sp] five times, (1htr, 1tr) in next ch-sp, (1tr, 1dtr) in next ch-sp, corner turn, (1dtr, 1tr) in next ch-sp, (1tr, 1htr) in next ch-sp, 3dc in shoulder ch-sp pm in centre st, 2dc in ch-sp, (1htr, 1tr) in next ch-sp, (1tr, 1dtr) in next ch-sp, corner turn, (1dtr, 1tr) in next ch-sp, (1tr, 1htr) in next ch-sp, 2dc, 3ch, 3tr in corner ch, [2tr in each ch-sp] twenty times,1tr in end tr. Fasten off. With RS facing and starting at hem CF edge of Right Front, join in yarn D to end of ch. Row 3: 1ch, 1rdcb (see Special Abbreviations) in same sp as ch, 43rdcb, 1dc in side of dc just worked, 4rdcb, 11rhtrb (see Special Abbreviations), 2dc blo in next st, 1rdcb (move shoulder marker), 2dc blo in next st, 2rtrb (see Special Abbreviations), [rtrb2tog] (see Special Abbreviations) three times, 12rtrb, [rtrb2tog] three times, 2rtrb, 2dc blo in next st, rdcb (move shoulder marker), 2dc blo in next st, 11rhtrb, 2rdcb, 3dc in side of end ch, 44rdcb. Fasten off. With RS facing and starting at hem CF edge of Right Front, join in yarn G to end of ch. Row 4: 2ch, 42rhtrb, 2dc blo, 5rdcb, 12rhtrb, 3dc blo, 2rhtrb, [rtrb2tog] twice, 12rhtrb, [rtrb2tog] twice, 2rhtrb, 3dc blo, 12rhtrb, 5rdcb, 2dc blo, 42rhtrb. Fasten off. With RS facing and starting at hem CF edge of Right Front, join in yarn A to end of ch. Row 5: 2ch, 20rhtrb, 2rtrb, 2ch, [6rtrb, 2ch] three times, 2rtrb, 1rhtrb, 1dc in side of htr just worked, 23rdcb, [rtrb2tog] once, 12rtrb, [rtrb2tog] once, 23rdcb, 1ch, 1rhtrb, 22rtrb, 20rhtrb. Fasten off. Size 24–36 Mths Only With yarn B and RS facing, starting at hem CF (see Special Abbreviations) edge of Right Front, join yarn in turning space of foundation ladder. Row 2: 3ch (counts as first tr), 2tr in first ch-sp, [2tr in each ch-sp] twenty times, 3tr in last CF space, 2dc along side of last tr worked to turn corner, 2dc in corner ch-sp, (1htr, 1tr) in next ch-sp, (1tr, 1dtr) in next ch-sp, corner turn (see Special Stitch Patterns), (1dtr, 1tr) in next ch-sp, (1tr, 1htr) in next ch-sp, www.insidecrochet.co.uk 79

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MAKE IT

Pattern instructions

6- 9 months 6–9 months

6 7

9 10 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20

2dc in next ch-sp, 3dc in shoulder ch-sp, PM in centre st, 2dc in next ch-sp, (1htr, 1tr) in next ch-sp, (1tr, 1dtr) next ch-sp, corner turn, (1dtr, 1tr) in next ch-sp, (1tr, 1htr) in next ch-sp, [2htr in next ch-sp] six times, (1htr, 1tr) in next ch-sp, (1tr, 1dtr) in next ch-sp, corner turn, (1dtr, 1tr) in next ch-sp, (1tr, 1htr) in next ch-sp,

2dc in next ch-sp, 3dc in shoulder ch-sp, PM in centre st, 2dc in next ch-sp, (1htr, 1tr) in next ch-sp, (1tr, 1dtr) in next ch-sp, corner turn, (1dtr, 1tr) in next ch-sp, (1tr, 1htr) in next ch-sp, 2dc, 3ch, 3tr in corner ch, [2tr in each ch-sp] 21 times, 1tr in end tr. Fasten off. With RS facing, starting at hem CF

edge of Right Front, join in yarn D to end of ch. Row 3: 2ch, 1rhtrb (see Special Abbreviations) in same sp, 44rhtrb, 1rdcb (see Special Abbreviations), 1dc in side of dc just worked, 4rdcb, 11rhtrb, (2dc blo) in next st, rdcb (move shoulder marker), (2dc blo) in next st, 2rhtrb, 2rtrb, (see Special

Abbreviations) [rtrb2tog] (see Special Abbreviations) three times, 14rtrb, [rtrb2tog] three times, 2rtrb, 2rhtrb, (2dc blo) in next st, rdcb (move shoulder marker), (2dc blo) in next st, 11rhtrb, 2rdcb, 3dc in side of end ch, rdcb in first tr of CF, 45rhtrb. Fasten off. With RS facing, starting at hem CF

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6–9 months

above fifth bar of CF ladder.

6 7 8 9 10 12

11

13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20

edge of Right Front, join in yarn G to end of ch. Row 4: 2ch, 44rhtrb, 2dc blo, 5rdcb, 12rhtrb, 3dc blo, 4rhtrb, [rtrb2tog] twice, 14rtrb, [rtrb2tog] twice, 4rhtrb, 3dc blo, 12rhtrb, 5rdcb, 2dc blo, 44rhtrb. Fasten off. With RS facing, starting at hem CF edge of Right Front, join in yarn A to end of ch. Row 5: 2ch, 22rhtrb, 2rtrb, 2ch, [6rtrb, 2ch] three times, 2rtrb, 1rhtrb, 1dc in side of htr, 23rdcb, [rtrb2tog] twice, 14rtrb, [rtrb2tog] twice, 23rdcb, 1ch, 1rhtrb, 22rtrb, 22rhtrb. Fasten off. Yoke Work from other side of Foundation Ladder along shoulder towards arm, beginning where indicated on the chart by the top blue arrow on the Left Front (this is the same position on all sizes of chart). Rows are fastened on at Left Front, with RS facing in side of CF ladder. First row is worked in side of top square ch-sps and subsequent rows fastened in CF ladder always beginning at same side with RS facing unless otherwise stated. Join yarn B in top of CF ladder Left Front with RS facing. Sizes 0–3 & 6–9 Mths Only Row 1: [2dc in ch-sp] twice, 5dc in corner space, [2dc in ch-sp] three times, 1dc in next ch-sp (PM to indicate shoulder), [2dc in ch-sp] three times, 5dc in corner space, [2dc in ch-sp] nine (ten) times, 5dc

in corner space, [2dc in ch-sp] three times, 1dc in next ch-sp (PM to indicate shoulder), [2dc in ch-sp] three times, 5dc in corner space, [2dc in ch-sp] twice, sl st in top of CF ladder – 72 (74) sts. Join yarn G in end of third bar of CF ladder Left Front with RS facing. Row 2: 5dtr blo, (2dtr blo) in next st, 1trtr in corner st, (2dtr blo) in next st, 7tr blo, miss 1 (marker), 7tr blo, (2dtr blo) in next st, 1trtr in corner st, (2dtr blo) in next st, 20 (22)dtr blo, (2dtr blo) in next st, 1trtr in corner st, (2dtr blo) in next st, 7tr blo, miss 1 (marker), 7tr blo, (2dtr blo) in next st, 1trtr in corner st, (2dtr blo) in next st, 5dtr blo, sl st and fasten off in end of third bar of CF ladder – 78 (80) sts. Join yarn D in space just below third bar of CF ladder Left Front with RS facing. Row 3: 7dc blo, 3dc in corner trtr (PM in centre st), 18dc blo, 3dc in corner trtr (PM in centre st), 24 (26) dc blo, 3dc in corner trtr (PM in centre st), 18dc blo, 3dc in corner trtr (PM in centre st), 7dc blo, sl st and fasten off just below third bar of CF ladder. Join yarn E just above fifth bar of CF ladder. Row 4: 9dtr blo across front yoke to corner marker, fasten off and break yarn. Fasten on again at back yoke corner 4ch, 27 (29)dtr blo across back yoke to next corner marker, fasten off, break yarn. Fasten on again at Right Front corner marker 4ch, 8dtr blo, sl st and fasten off just

Size 12–18 Mths Only Row 1: [2dc in ch-sp] three times, 5dc in corner space, [2dc in ch-sp] four times, 1dc in next ch-sp (PM to indicate shoulder), [2dc in ch-sp] three times, 5dc in corner space, [2dc in ch-sp] 11 times, 5dc in corner space, [2dc in ch-sp] three times, 1dc in next ch-sp (PM to indicate shoulder), [2dc in ch-sp] four times, 5dc in corner space, [2dc in ch-sp] three times, sl st in top of CF ladder – 84 sts. Join yarn G in end of third bar of CF ladder. Row 2: 7dtr blo, (2dtr blo) in next st, 1trtr in corner st, (2dtr blo) in next st, 9tr blo, miss 1 (marker), 7tr blo, (2dtr blo) in next st, 1trtr in corner st, (2dtr blo) in next st, 24dtr blo, (2dtr blo) in next st, 1trtr in corner st, (2dtr blo) in next st, 7tr blo, miss 1 (marker), 9tr blo, (2dtr blo) in next st, 1trtr in corner st, (2dtr blo) in next st, 7dtr blo, sl st and fasten off in end of third bar of CF ladder – 90 sts. Join yarn E in space just below fourth bar of CF ladder. Row 3: 8dtr blo, (2dtr blo) in next st, 1trtr in corner st, (2dtr blo) in next st, 8tr blo, [2tr blo tog] twice, 6tr blo, (2tr blo) in next st, 1trtr in corner st, (2tr blo) in next st, 26tr blo, (2tr blo) in next st, 1trtr in corner st, (2tr blo) in next st, 6tr blo, [2tr blo tog] twice, 8tr blo, (2dtr blo) in next st, 1trtr in corner st, (2dtr blo) in next st, 8dtr blo, sl st and fasten off in space just below fourth bar. Join yarn F in Left Front RS facing back corner trtr and work across back yoke only. Row 4: 3ch (counts as st), 31rdtrb – 32 sts. Fasten off. Join yarn D just above fifth bar of CF ladder. Row 5: 10dc blo, 3dc in corner trtr (PM in centre st), 21dc blo, 3dc around 4ch of yarn F, 2dc in end of ch (PM), 30dc blo, 2dc in end dtr (PM), 3dc down side of dtr, 21dc blo, 3dc in corner trtr (PM in centre st), 10dc blo, sl st and fasten off just above fifth bar of CF ladder. Size 24–36 Mths Only Row 1: [2dc in ch-sp] three times, 5dc in corner space, [2dc in next ch-sp] four times, 1dc in next ch-sp (PM to indicate shoulder), [2dc in next ch-sp] four times, 5dc in corner space, [2dc in next ch-sp] 12

times, 5dc in corner space, [2dc in next ch-sp] four times, 1dc in next ch-sp (PM to indicate shoulder), [2dc in next ch-sp] four times, 5dc in corner space, [2dc in next ch-sp] three times, sl st in top of CF ladder – 90 sts. Join yarn G in third bar of CF ladder. Row 2: 7dtr blo, (2dtr blo) in next st, 1trtr in corner st, (2dtr blo) in next st, 9dtr blo, miss 1 (marker), 9dtr blo, (2dtr blo) in next st, 1trtr in corner st, ([2dtr blo) in next st, 26dtr blo, (2dtr blo) in next st, 1trtr in corner st, (2dtr blo) in next st, 9dtr blo, miss 1 (marker), 9dtr blo, (2dtr blo) in next st, 1trtr in corner st, (2dtr blo) in next st, 7dtr blo, sl st and fasten off in end of third bar of CF ladder – 96 sts. Join yarn E in space below fourth bar of CF ladder. Row 3: 8dtr blo, (2dtr blo) in next st, 1trtr in corner st, (2dtr blo) in next st, 8dtr blo, [2dtr blo tog] twice, 8dtr blo, (2dtr blo) in next st, 1trtr in corner st, (2dtr blo) in next st, 28dtr blo, (2dtr blo) in next st, 1trtr in corner st, (2dtr blo) in next st, 8dtr blo, [2dtr blo tog] twice, 8dtr blo, (2dtr blo) in next st, 1trtr in corner st, (2dtr blo) in next st, 8dtr blo, sl st and fasten off in sp below 4th bar of CF ladder – 100 sts. Join yarn F in Left Front back corner trtr and work across back yoke only. Row 4: 4ch (counts as st), (2rdtrb) in next st, 30rdtrb, (2rdtrb) in next st, 1rdtrb in corner trtr. Fasten off. Join yarn D just above fifth bar of CF ladder. Row 5: 9dc blo, (2dc blo) in next st, 3dc in corner trtr (PM in centre st), 23dc blo, 3dc around 4ch of yarn F, 2dc in end of ch (PM), 36dc (if not using a fluffy yarn at this point put dc’s in back loops), 2dc in end dtr (PM in centre st), 3dc down side of dtr, 23dc blo, 3dc in corner trtr (PM in centre st), (2dc blo) in next st, 9dc blo, sl st and fasten off just above fifth bar of CF ladder. MAIN BODY From this point rows are worked down towards hem and join up the body at underarms. Join yarn A in the sixth sp of CF ladder. Size 0–3 Mths Only Row 5: 8tr blo, 2tr blo in next st, 8ch, starting at marked st on corner of back yoke, 28tr blo, ending at marked st on corner, 8ch, www.insidecrochet.co.uk 81

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MAKE IT

Pattern instructions off in tenth sp of CF ladder. Join yarn A in 11th sp of CF ladder. Row 10: 72tr blo, sl st in 11th sp of CF ladder, 1ch, sl st in ladder again. Turn. Row 11: [1ch, miss 1, 1dc] 36 times, 1ch, sl st and fasten off in 11th sp of CF ladder on Left Front.

starting at marked st on corner of Right Front yoke 2tr blo in next st, 8tr blo, sl st and fasten off in end of 6th sp of CF ladder – 64 sts. Join yarn G in the eighth sp of CF ladder. Row 6: 10dtr across front yoke, 8dtr in underarm ch, 28dtr across back, 8dtr in underarm ch, 10dtr across Right Front yoke, sl st and fasten off in end of eighth sp of CF ladder – 64 sts. Join yarn D in eighth sp of CF ladder. Row 7: 64rdcb, sl st in edge of eighth sp of Right Front ladder, 1ch, sl st in ladder again. Turn. Row 8: 64rtrf, sl st and fasten off in ninth sp of ladder on Left Front. Join yarn B in 11th sp of CF ladder. Row 9: 64dtr blo, sl st in 11th sp of CF ladder, 1ch, sl st in ladder again. Turn. Row 10: [1ch, miss 1, 1dc] 32 times, 1ch, sl st and fasten off in 11th sp of CF ladder on Left Front.

Size 6–9 Mths Only Row 5: 7tr blo, [2tr blo in same st] twice, 10ch, starting at marked st on corner of back yoke, 30tr blo ending at marked st on corner, 10ch, starting at marked st on corner of Right Front yoke [2tr blo in same st] twice, 7tr blo, sl st and fasten off in end of 6th sp of CF ladder – 72 sts. Join yarn C in eighth sp of CF ladder. Row 6: 11dtr across front yoke, 10dtr in underarm ch, 30dtr across back, 10dtr in underarm ch, 11dtr across Right Front yoke, sl st and fasten off in end of eighth sp of CF ladder – 72 sts. Join yarn D in eighth sp of CF ladder. Row 7: 72rdcb, sl st in edge of eighth sp of Right Front ladder, 1ch, sl st in ladder again. Turn. Row 8: 72rtrf, sl st and fasten off in ninth sp of ladder on Left Front. Join yarn G in 10th sp of CF ladder. Row 9: 72dtr blo, sl st and fasten

0–3mths ACTUAL CHEST LENGTH SHOULDER WIDTH SLEEVE LENGTH

6–9mths

12–18mths

Size 12–18 Mths Only Row 6: 11dtr blo, 2dtr blo in same st, 10ch, starting at marked st on corner of back yoke, 34dtr blo, ending at marked st on corner, 10ch, starting at marked st on corner of Right Front yoke 2dtr blo in same st, 11dtr blo, sl st and fasten off in end of sixth bar CF ladder – 80 sts. Join yarn C in seventh bar of CF ladder. Row 7: 13tr, (2htr, 6dc, 2htr) in underarm ch, 34tr across back yoke, (2htr, 6dc, 2htr) worked in underarm ch, 13tr across Right Front, sl st and fasten off in end of seventh bar of CF ladder. Join yarn D in ninth space above bar of CF ladder. Row 8: 80dtr blo, sl st and fasten off in ninth sp above bar of CF ladder. Join yarn G in end of ninth bar of CF ladder. Row 9: 80rdcb, sl st in edge of 10th sp of Right Front ladder, 1ch, sl st in ladder again. Turn. Row 10: 80rhtrf, sl st and fasten off in 10th sp of ladder on Left Front. Join yarn B in 11th sp of CF ladder. Row 11: 80tr blo, sl st and fasten off in 11th sp of CF ladder. Join yarn E in 12th sp of CF ladder. Row 12: 80ht blo, sl st in 12th sp of CF ladder, 1ch, sl st in ladder again. Turn. Row 13: [1ch, miss 1, 1dc] four times, 1ch, sl st and fasten off in 12th sp of CF ladder on Left Front. Size 24–36 Mths Only 24–36mths

44

48

53

58

cm

17½

18¾

20¾

23

in

24

26

28

30

cm

10¼

11

11¾

in

6

6

7

8

cm

in

16

19

23

26

cm

9

10½

in

Row 6: 11dtr blo, [2dtr blo in same st] twice, 10ch, starting at marked st on corner of back yoke, (2dtr blo in same st), 36dtr blo, (2dtr blo in same st), ending at marked st on corner, 10ch, starting at marked st on corner of Right Front yoke [2dtr blo in same st] twice, 11dtr blo, sl st and fasten off in end of 6th bar CF ladder – 90 sts. Join yarn C in seventh bar of CF ladder. Row 7: 15tr across Left Front, 10tr in underarm ch, 40tr across back yoke, 10tr in underarm ch, 15tr across Right Front, sl st and fasten off in end of seventh bar of CF ladder – 90 sts. Join yarn D above ninth bar of CF ladder. Row 8: 90dtr blo, sl st and fasten off above ninth bar of CF ladder. Join yarn G in end of ninth bar of CF ladder. Row 9: 90rdcb, sl st in edge of 10th sp of Right Front ladder, 1ch, sl st in ladder again. Turn. Row 10: 90rhtrf, sl st and fasten off in side ch of 10th sp in ladder on Left Front. Join yarn B in 11th sp of CF ladder. Row 11: 90dtr blo, sl st and fasten off in 11th sp of CF ladder. Join yarn E in 12th sp of CF ladder. Row 12: 90tr blo, sl st in 12th sp of CF ladder, 1ch, sl st in ladder again. Turn. Row 13: [1ch, miss 1, 1dc] 44 times, 1ch, miss 1, sl st and fasten off in 12th sp of CF ladder (Left Front). SKIRT Size 0–3 Mths Only Join yarn E in 12th sp of CF ladder. Row 11: 1dc in first ch-sp, [(1htr, 1tr, 1dtr, 1tr, 1htr) in next ch-sp, miss dc, 1dc in next ch-sp] 16 times, sl st and fasten off in 12th bar of CF ladder. Join yarn D in 13th bar of CF ladder. Row 12: (1dtr, 2tr) in dc, [miss 2, 1dc in dtr, miss 2, [(2tr, dtr, 2tr) in dc] 15 times, miss 2, (2tr, dtr) in dc, sl st in 13th bar of ladder fasten off. Join yarn F next to previous row in 14th sp of ladder. Row 13: [1dc in dtr, miss 2, (2tr, dtr, 3ch-picot (see Special Stitch Patterns), 2tr) in dc, miss 2] 16 times, sl st and fasten off in CF ladder next to previous row. Join yarn A in 15th sp of ladder. Row 14: 3htr, miss picot, 2ch,

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[6htr, miss picot, 2ch] 15 times, 4htr, sl st and fasten off in 15th sp of ladder. Join yarn C in 16th bar of ladder. Row 15: 2dtr blo, 1tr blo, 1htr blo, [1dc in ch-sp, 1dc in picot lp (making sure lp lies to RS), 1dc in ch-sp, 1htr blo, 1tr blo, 2dtr blo, 1tr blo, 1htr blo] 15 times, 1dc in ch-sp, 1dc in picot lp, 1dc in ch-sp, 1htr blo, 1tr blo, 1dtr blo, sl st and fasten off in 16th bar of ladder – 145 sts. Join yarn B in 17th sp of ladder. Row 16: [1rtrb, miss 1, 1ch] to last st, rtrb, sl st and fasten off in 17th sp of ladder – 145 sts. Join yarn D in 17th bar of ladder. Row 17: [1ch, miss 1tr, 1dc in ch-sp] to end, 1ch, sl st and fasten off in 17th bar of ladder – 146 sts. Join yarn E in 18th bar of ladder. Row 18: 146tr blo, sl st and fasten off in 18th bar of ladder. Size 6–9 Mths Only Join yarn B in 13th sp of CF ladder. Row 12: (1dtr, 1tr, 1htr) in first ch-sp, 1dc in next ch-sp, [(1htr, 1tr, 1dtr, 1tr, 1htr) in next ch-sp, miss 1dc, 1dc in next ch-sp] 17 times, miss 1dc, (1htr, 1tr, 1dtr) in last ch-sp, sl st in 14th sp of CF ladder. Join yarn D in 13th sp of CF ladder. Row 13: [1dc in dtr, miss 2, (2tr, 1dtr, 2tr) in dc, miss 2] 18 times, sl st and fasten off in CF ladder next to previous row. Join yarn E in 15th sp of ladder. Row 14: (1dtr, 2tr) in dc, [miss 2, 1dc in dtr, miss 2, (2tr, 1dtr, 2tr) in dc] 17 times, miss 2, (2tr, 1dtr) in dc, sl st and fasten off in 15th sp of ladder. Join yarn F to previous row in 15th sp of ladder. Row 15: [1dc in dtr, miss 2, (2tr, 1dtr, 3ch-picot (see Special Stitch Patterns), 2tr) in dc, miss 2] 18 times, sl st and fasten off in CF ladder next to previous row. Join yarn A in 16th sp of ladder. Row 16: 3htr, miss picot, 2ch, [6htr, miss picot, 2ch] 17 times, 4htr, sl st and fasten off in 16th sp of ladder. Join yarn C in 17th bar of ladder. Row 17: 2dtr blo, 1tr blo, 1htr blo, [1dc in ch-sp, 1dc in picot lp (making sure lp lies to RS), 1dc in ch-sp, 1htr blo, 1tr blo, 2dtr blo, 1tr blo, 1htr blo] 17 times, 1dc in ch-sp, 1dc in picot lp, 1dc in ch-sp, 1htr blo, 1tr blo, 1dtr blo, sl st and

fasten off in 18th bar of ladder – 163 sts. Join yarn B in 18th spof ladder. Row 18: [1rtrb, miss 1, 1ch] to last st, 1rtrb, sl st and fasten off in 18th sp of ladder – 163 sts. Join yarn D in 18th bar of ladder. Row 19: [1ch, miss 1tr, 1dc in ch-sp] to end, 1ch, sl st and fasten off in 18th bar of ladder – 164 sts. Join yarn E in 19th bar of ladder. Row 20: 164tr blo, sl st and fasten off in 19th bar of ladder. Size 12–18 Mths Only Join yarn A in 12th bar of CF ladder. Row 14: 1dc in first ch-sp, [(1htr, 1tr, 1dtr, 1tr, 1htr) in next ch-sp, miss 1 dc, dc in next ch-sp] 20 times, sl st and fasten off in 12th bar of CF ladder. Join yarn G in 14th sp of ladder. Row 15: (1dtr, 2tr) in next dc, [miss 2, 1dc in dtr, miss 2, (2tr, dtr, 2tr) in next dc] 19 times, miss 2, (2tr, dtr) in next dc, sl st in 14th sp of ladder. Fasten off. Join yarn B in 14th bar of ladder. Row 16: [1dc in dtr, miss 2, (2tr, dtr, 2tr) in next dc, miss 2] 20 times, sl st and fasten off in CF ladder next to previous row. Join yarn D in 16th sp of ladder. Row 17: As row 15. Join yarn F in 16th sp of ladder. Row 18: [1dc in dtr, miss 2, (2tr, dtr, 3ch-picot (see Special Stitch Patterns), 2tr) in next dc, miss 2] 20 times, sl st and fasten off in CF ladder next to prev row. Join yarn A in 17th sp of ladder. Row 19: 3htr, miss picot, 2ch, [6htr, miss picot, 2ch] 19 times, 4htr, sl st and fasten off in 17th sp of ladder. Join yarn C in 18th bar of ladder. Row 20: 2dtr blo, 1tr blo, 1htr blo, [1dc in ch-sp, 1dc in picot lp (making sure lp lies to RS), 1dc in ch-sp, 1htr blo, 1tr blo, 2dtr blo, 1tr blo, 1htr blo] 19 times, 1dc in ch-sp, 1dc in picot lp, 1dc in ch-sp, 1htr blo, 1tr blo, 1dtr blo, sl st and fasten off in 18th bar of ladder – 181 sts. Join yarn B in 19th sp of ladder. Row 21: [1rtrb, miss 1, 1ch] to end last st, 1rtrb, sl st and fasten off in 19th sp of ladder. Join yarn D in 19th bar of ladder. Row 22: [1ch, miss 1 tr, 1dc in ch-sp] to end, 1ch, sl st and fasten off in 19th bar of ladder – 182 sts. Join yarn E in 20th bar of ladder. Row 23: 182tr blo, sl st and fasten off in 20th bar of ladder.

Size 24–36 Mths Only Join yarn A in 14th sp of CF ladder. Row 14: (1dtr, 1tr, 1htr) in first ch-sp, 1dc in next ch-sp, [(1htr, 1tr, 1dtr, 1tr, 1htr) in same ch-sp, miss 1 dc, 1dc in next ch-sp] 21 times, miss 1 dc, (1htr, 1tr, 1dtr) in last ch-sp, sl st in 14th sp of CF ladder. Join yarn G next to prev row in 14th space. Row 15: [1dc in dtr, miss 2, (2tr, dtr, 2tr) in dc, miss 2] 22 times, sl st and fasten off in CF ladder next to prev row. Join yarn B in 15th bar of ladder. Row 16: (1dtr, 2tr) in next dc, [miss 2, 1dc in dtr, miss 2, [(2tr, dtr, 2tr) in dc] 21 times, miss 2, (2tr, 1dtr) in next dc, sl st in 15th bar of ladder. Fasten off. Join yarn D next to prev row in 16th sp of ladder. Row 17: As row 15. Join yarn E in 17th sp of ladder. Row 18: As row 16. Join yarn F next to prev row in 17th sp of ladder. Row 19: [1dc in dtr, miss 2, (2tr, dtr, 3ch-picot (see Special Stitch Patterns), 2tr) in next dc, miss 2] 22 times, sl st and fasten off in CF ladder next to prev row. Join yarn A in 18th bar of ladder. Row 20: 3htr, miss picot, 2ch, [6htr, miss picot, 2ch] 21 times, 4htr, sl st and fasten off in 18th

bar of ladder. Join yarn C in 19th bar of ladder. Row 21: 2dtr blo, 1tr blo, 1htr blo, [1dc in ch-sp, 1dc in picot lp (making sure lp lies to RS), 1dc in ch-sp, 1htr blo, 1tr blo, 2dtr blo, 1tr blo, 1htr blo] 21 times, 1dc in ch-sp, 1dc in picot lp, 1dc in ch-sp, 1htr blo, 1tr blo, 1dtr blo, sl st and fasten off in 19th bar of ladder – 199 sts. Join yarn B in 20th sp of ladder. Row 22: [1rtrb, miss 1, 1ch] to last st, 1rtrb, sl st and fasten off in 20th sp of ladder. Join yarn D in 21st sp of ladder. Row 23: [1ch, miss 1 tr, 1dc in ch-sp] to end, 1ch, sl st and fasten off in 21st sp of ladder – 200 sts. Join yarn E in 21st bar of ladder. Row 24: 200tr blo, sl st and fasten off in 21st bar of ladder. SLEEVES Make two To achieve speckled colour on Sleeves work with two strands of 4ply weight yarn in the following order: Yarns B & C for foundation ch, rnds 1 & 2. Keeping yarn B, splice yarn C with yarn A and cont working the two tog for rnds 3 & 4 [colours BA]. Keeping yarn A, splice yarn B with yarn C and work rnds 5 & 6 [colours AC]. This sets rep of two rnds of patt www.insidecrochet.co.uk 83

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MAKE IT

Pattern instructions

to each colour combination. If you choose to use this pattern to use up stash yarn simply substitute your own two strands of 4ply colour combinations, or stripes of DK yarn (this would not need to be doubled), or use an already speckled yarn. With 4mm hook 34 (36, 38, 40)ch, sl st to close. Rnd 1: 1ch, 34 (36, 38, 40) dc, sl st to close. Rnd 2: 3ch (counts as 1tr), 33 (35, 37, 39) tr, sl st to close. Rnd 3: 4ch, [miss 1, 1tr, 1ch] 16 (17, 18, 19) times, sl st to close. Rnd 4: 3ch, [1tr in ch-sp, 1tr in next tr] to end, sl st to close. Rnd 5: As rnd 3. Rnd 6: (Inc) 3ch, 2tr in next ch-sp, [1tr in next tr, 1tr in next ch-sp] to end, work 2tr in last ch-sp, sl st to close – 36 (38, 40, 42) sts. Size 0–3 Mths Only: Rep rnds 3 & 4 four times more. Size 6–9 Mths Only: Rep rnds 3–6 once more, then rnds 3 & 4 three times more – 40 sts. Size 12–18 Mths Only: Rep rnds 3–6 twice more, then rnds 3 & 4 three times more – 44 sts. Size 24–36 Mths Only: Rep rnds 3–6 three times more, then rnds 3 & 4 twice more – 48 sts. Note: Once initial rounds have been worked the number of pattern reps and sts will be more than stated – follow individual sizes for st counts. All sizes SHAPE SLEEVE HEAD Row 1: 4 sl st, 2ch, miss 1, 1tr, [1ch, miss 1, 1tr] 11 (13, 15, 17) times, 1ch, miss 1, tr2tog with one st gap between sts, turn. Row 2: 3ch, miss ch-sp, 1tr in next tr, [1tr in ch-sp, 1tr] 9 (11,13,15) times, 1tr in next ch-sp, tr2tog with one ch-sp gap between sts, turn. Row 3: 3ch, miss 1, 1tr in next st, [1ch, miss 1, 1tr] 8 (10, 12, 14) times, miss 1, 1tr in next st, turn. Row 4: 2dc in ch-sp, 1htr in next tr, [1tr in ch-sp, 1tr in next tr] 5 (7, 9, 11) times, 1tr in ch-sp, miss 1, 1tr in next ch-sp, turn. Sizes 0–3 & 6–9 mths: Fasten off. Sizes 12–18 & 24–36 Mths Only: Miss 1, 2dc, 1htr, 1tr, [1ch, miss 1, 1tr] seven times, 1htr, 2dc, sl st. Fasten off.

CUFF TRIM All Sizes With yarn D and starting at underarm sleeve hem with RS facing pick up evenly 30 (33, 36, 36) dc, sl st to close. Fasten off. Next Row: Join yarn A in same place as before and work 1dc in same st, *(1tr blo, 1dtr blo) in next st, (1dtr blo, 1tr blo) in next st, 1dc blo in next st, rep from * to end, sl st to close. Fasten off and weave in ends. HEM TRIM With yarn A and starting with RS facing at CF hem edge of Left Front, work 9dc evenly across front band. At step after foundation ladder work in last skirt row as folls: Sizes 0–3 & 12–18 Mths Only: 1dtr in first st, (1dtr, 1tr, 1htr) in next st, 1dc, [miss1, (1htr, 1tr, 1dtr, 1tr, 1htr) in next st, miss 1, 1dc) 35 (44) times, miss 1, (1htr, 1tr, 1dtr) in next st, 1dtr. Sizes 6–9 & 24–36 Mths Only: (1dtr, 1tr, 1htr) in first st, 1dc, [miss1, (1htr, 1tr, 1dtr, 1tr, 1htr) in next st, miss 1, 1dc) 40 (49) times, miss 1, (1htr, 1tr, 1dtr) in next st. All Sizes Work 9dc across hem edge of the Right Front CF band. Fasten off. FRONT LADDER SURFACE DOUBLE CROCHET With RS facing, join yarn B to the top inside corner of foundation ladder at Left Front (where you joined to start the Yoke, but this time working down rather than across), and work surface double crochet along the length of the ladder where it joins to the Yoke and body stitches as follows: Work 2dc in each ladder sp, in last sp work 2ch, work 4dtr to last lp, 5 lps on hk, yrh and pull through all lps, sl st in base of cluster and fasten off. On Right Front start with 5dtr cluster as above in first sp at hem then work 2dc per sp up to top corner of foundation ladder, sl st and fasten off in horizontal row. FINISHING Set in sleeves, sewing so that dc sts at shoulder are on the outside. Weave in ends. Sew on buttons and END press following yarn band instructions.

Argyle Storage Basket BY ASHLEY CRAMP

Inspired by the Scottish Highlands and the diamond patterns seen on thick Argyle kilt socks, this sturdy storage basket will happily sit by the fireside, holding yarn or logs!

ADD TO THE STASH Buy this great value yarn from www.woolwarehouse.co.uk

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MATERIALS ● King Cole Big Value Super Chunky, 100% acrylic, 100g/81m/90yds Yarn A: Graphite 1545 x 3 balls Yarn B: Petrol 1546 x 2 balls Yarn C: Rust 1761 x 3 balls Yarn D: Grey 024 x 2 balls ● 9mm hook ● Locking stitch marker ● Medium piping cord for handle ● Sewing needle and thread YARN ALTERNATIVES You can use any super chunky weight yarn to achieve a similar effect. TENSION Work 9dc and 10 rows to measure 10 x 10cm/4 x 4in using 9mm hook, or size required to obtain tension. Exact tension is not necessary for this project but adjust your hook size to achieve a firm fabric. MEASUREMENTS Finished basket is approximately 38cm/15in in diameter at the base, and 46cm/18in high. DESIGNER BIOGRAPHY Ashley works as a wardrobe mistress and regards sewing as her “day job” and crochet as her relaxation. She loves to find inspiration in the past and childhood memories. Read her blog at www.lazydaisyjones.com.

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MAKE IT

Pattern instructions

PATTERN NOTES Basket is worked in two parts: the base and the main body, before being seamed together. BASE Work in a spiral, using a stitch marker to indicate beg of rnd, moving it up as you complete each rnd. Rnd 1: Using yarn A, work 6dc into adjustable ring – 6 sts. Rnd 2: 2dc in each st around – 12 sts. Rnd 3: [1dc, 2dc in next st] six times – 18 sts. Rnd 4: [2dc, 2dc in next st] six times – 24 sts. Rnd 5: [3dc, 2dc in next st] six times – 30 sts. Rnd 6: [4dc, 2dc in next st] six times – 36 sts. Rnd 7: [5dc, 2dc in next st] six times – 42 sts. Rnd 8: [6dc, 2dc in next st] six times – 48 sts. Rnd 9: [7dc, 2dc in next st] six times – 54 sts. START

Rnd 10: [8dc, 2dc in next st] six times – 60 sts. Rnd 11: [9dc, 2dc in next st] six times – 66 sts. Rnd 12: [10dc, 2dc in next st] six times – 72 sts. Rnd 13: [11dc, 2dc in next st] six times – 78 sts. Rnd 14: [12dc, 2dc in next st] six times – 84 sts. Fasten off. MAIN BODY Work in turned rounds with a turning chain at beginning of each round. Change colour in the last stitch before new colour. Wind yarn into smaller balls and join for each colour change, without fastening off the old colour, dropping and picking up each yarn as you go. Rnd 1: Using yarn A, make 85ch. 1dc in second ch from hk, 1dc in ea ch to end, turn – 84 sts. Rnd 2: 1ch, 1dc in ea st to end, turn.

Rnds 3–35: Cont in dc as est and work rows 3–31 of chart (rows 1 & 2 have already been worked), changing colours as shown in last st before the new colour. Wind yarn into smaller balls and join for each new colour change. Rnd 36: Using yarn C, 1ch, 1dc ea st to end. Fasten off. MAKING UP With RS of main body together, using yarn A, work dc along seam to join. Turn RS out. With WS together, line up base with body and using yarn A, work dc in each st around to join. Sew cord together at ends, and line up with top edge of basket. Using yarn C, with seam at back (use pattern of squares as a guide), join handle with basket as follows, working around the handle cord and into rnd 36 at the same time before breaking

off and only working around the cord to create the handle: Join yarn at back seam. Work 1ch, 2dc in ea of next 12 sts – you should now be above the yarn D edge. Miss next 20dc of basket and work dc around cord only, then work back into basket re-joining above blue square (first handle made). Cont joining as before working 2dc in ea of next 22 sts. Miss next 20 dc and work dc around cord only. Re-join to body above blue square (second handle made). Cont joining working 2dc in ea remaining st to end, join in first st. Fasten off. Using yarn C, work 1dc in each st around underside of each handle. Weaving in any loose ends. Cut any remaining lengths of yarn to use as tassels, double over and loop through END sts of rnd 25. Trim to neaten.

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HOW TO CROCHET

TEACH YOURSELF

Crochet Howto

IDE TO OUR COMPLETE GU BLE AT CROCHET IS AVAILA

How to hold the work, chains, double & treble crochet, slip stitch and more

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Crochet is a craft that often looks deceptively

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hard – all that twisting and

This gorgeous “blanket in a bag” design in the new Stylecraft Batik DK Pattern 9299

looping and pulling of yarn! But once you’ve got the hang of a few simple movements, you’ll find it’s easy to work all the stitches you need, meaning you can make anything from simple granny motifs to complex garments worked in elaborate stitch patterns. Claire Montgomerie has put together this great guide to all the crochet basics, in association with Stylecraft, who have a wide range of affordable, high-quality yarns, perfect for beginners and more experienced crocheters. From basic Text © Inside Crochet/Claire Montgomerie. Illustrations © Inside Crochet/Sean Miles

stitches to slip knots, tension, abbreviations, working in the round and more, our guide will take you through everything you need to know to make a start on your new favourite hobby. Claire’s number one tip is to practise the chain stitch before you move on to anything else, as once you’ve got the hang of creating smooth, even chains, you’ll find it easy to move on to all the other techniques. Crochet is a wonderful hobby that can give you many hours of pleasure as well as beautiful finished makes, so turn the page to get started today!

TURN THE PAGE FOR ALL YOU NEED TO GET STARTED

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HOW TO CROCHET

GETTING STARTED

THE BASICS To crochet smoothly and efficiently, you must hold the hook and yarn in a relaxed, comfortable and consistent fashion. This will also ensure that your tension is even and accurate. There are two main ways of holding the hook and two main ways to tension the yarn. You can choose whichever combination feels more natural for you, or a variation on these.

SLIPKNOT

CHAIN

A slipknot creates the first loop on the hook.

Most crochet projects begin with a length of chain. This is the perfect stitch to practise your hold and tension with.

HOLDING THE HOOK

KNIFE GRIP

PENCIL GRIP

Hold the hook in your dominant hand as you would a knife.

Hold the hook in your dominant hand as you would a pencil.

1 Make a loop in the yarn around 10–20cm/4–8in from the end. Insert hook through loop, catch the back strand of yarn and pull it through to the front.

Text © Inside Crochet/Claire Montgomerie. Illustrations © Inside Crochet/Sean Miles

HOLDING THE YARN

FOREFINGER METHOD

MIDDLE-FINGER METHOD

Wrap the ball end of the yarn around the little finger of your opposite hand, under the next two fingers and over the forefinger. Hold the work steady with your middle finger and thumb, then raise your forefinger when working to create tension.

Wrap the ball end of the yarn around the little finger of your opposite hand and over the other fingers. Hold the work steady with your forefinger and thumb, then raise your middle finger while you are crocheting to create tension.

Working left-handed To croch e t le ft-h and ed, simply do the opp osit e to . the righ t-h and ed hol ds Hold a mirror up to any to p ic ture in this gu ide

see how to wor k.

TOPTiPabcdgg It doesn’t ma t te r if your sti tch es te nd tow ar ds be in g sli gh tly tig ht or ev en a lit tle loose; you ar e ai mi ng for an ev en te nsion th roughout to ac hi ev e a pr of ession al fin ish .

1 Holding just the hook with point up in your dominant hand, and the yarn in the other, grip the slipknot with the yarn holding hand. Work a yarn round hook (yrh or yoh) by passing the hook in front of the yarn, under and around it.

2 Pull the ends of the yarn to secure the knot around the hook, but not too tightly or it will be hard to pull the first loop of chain through.

TOPTiPabcdgg The action of working stitches causes a constan t rolling of the hook in your fingers; hold the hook pointin g up when performing the yrh, then roll it round towards you to point down when pulling through the loops so that you don’t catch the hook in the stitches.

2 Roll the hook round in your fingers towards you to catch the yarn and pull through loop on hook. One chain made.

3 Ensuring the stitches are even – not too loose or tight – repeat to make a length of chain.

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HOW TO CROCHET

THE MAIN STITCHES SLIP STITCH (sl st) A slip stitch is usually used to join one stitch to another, or to join a stitch to another point. It is generally made by picking up two strands of a stitch but when used all over, you usually only pick up the back loop.

Simple motif designs can quickly build up into larger projects, such as this stunning blanket from Stylecraft Pattern 9298

Double crochet stitches are perfect for making amigurumi, while treble crochets are used to create the classic granny square design

DOUBLE CROCHET (dc) The smallest stitch, creating a dense fabric perfect for amigurumi. 1 Insert hook into st or chain required. Yarn over hook, as when you make a chain. Pull a loop through all stitches/ loops/work on hook to finish slip stitch.

1 Insert hook into chain or stitch, front to back. Yarn over hook and draw through stitch to front, leaving you with two loops on the hook. Yarn round hook. 2 Draw through both loops to finish the stitch. Double crochet completed.

Text © Inside Crochet/Claire Montgomerie. Illustrations © Inside Crochet/Sean Miles

COUNTING A CHAIN The right side of your chain is the one that looks like a little plait of “v” shapes. Each “v” is a stitch and must be counted. When you are working the chain, you do not count the slipknot, but begin to count your chain when you pull through the first loop. To count the chain afterwards you count the slipknot as the first stitch, but not the loop on the hook, or “working” loop.

HALF TREBLE CROCHET (htr) Slightly taller than a double crochet stitch, with a softer drape to the resulting fabric. 1 Yarn over hook, insert hook into st from front to back and draw loop through stitch only. This gives you three loops on the hook. Yarn round hook.

2 Draw yarn through three remaining loops on the hook together to complete half treble.

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HOW TO CROCHET

TREBLE CROCHET (tr) The tallest of the basic stitches, great for using within more complex patterns.

Text © Inside Crochet/Claire Montgomerie. Illustrations © Inside Crochet/Sean Miles

➻ One of the most well-known and respected names in the hand knitting business, Stylecraft offers yarns which reflect the latest fashion trends together with those essential classics and irresistible baby yarns that are ideal for knitting and crochet. We pride ourselves on offering excellent quality yarn at great prices and our designs embrace garments for all the family as well as toys and accessories.

1 Yarn round hook, insert hook into stitch from front to back and draw loop through stitch only. This gives you three loops on the hook. Yarn round hook.

FASTEN OFF Pull up final loop of last stitch to make it bigger and cut the yarn, leaving enough of an end to weave in. Pull end through loop, and pull up tightly to secure.

COUNTING STITCHES Count the post or “stem” of each stitch from the side of your work. Each post counts as one stitch. Double crochet

2 Pull loop through two loops. Two loops on hook. Yarn round hook.

Treble crochet

Visit our website at www.stylecraft-yarns.co.uk for information on all our new and existing product ranges, plus some fantastic free patterns for you to enjoy too!

Finding a stockist near you ➻ To find your nearest local, independent yarn store that stocks Stylecraft yarns, please visit www.stylecraft-yarns. co.uk/stockists.php and enter your postcode into the online form.

TOPTiPabcdgg

3 Pull loop through the remaining two loops to complete treble, repeat to end of row.

Try t o coun t your st it ches a t regu lar int erva ls, usua lly a t the end of ever y, or ever y othe r, row and esp ecia lly a f t er an incr ea se or decr ea se row. It is b est t o try t o ca t ch any mist ake s a s q uick ly a s p ossib le, a s this will mak e them muc h ea sier t o rect i fy!

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HOW TO CROCHET

USING THE STITCHES WORKING INTO A CHAIN

WORKING STRAIGHT

When working into a chain, you need to miss out the appropriate number of chain stitches called for with your particular stitch (see the information on turning chains, to the right). Now insert the hook from front to back into the next chain, under the top loop of the chain. Yarn over and draw a loop through to the front of the chain.

When working straight, you need to turn your work at the end of a row and then work a turning chain (t-ch) to the height of your intended stitch so that you can continue working along the next row. This chain often counts as the first stitch of the row and each type of stitch uses a different number of chain stitches for the turning chain.

WORKING INTO WHICH LOOP?

Text © Inside Crochet/Claire Montgomerie. Illustrations © Inside Crochet/Sean Miles

Crochet stitches are always worked through both loops of the next stitch (this looks like a “v” on top of the stitch), unless the pattern tells you otherwise.

With htr and taller stitches, you now miss out the first stitch of the row, then work into every following stitch. This is because the turning chain is tall enough to count as the first stitch itself, so is counted as the first stitch of the row. This also means that you must remember to work the last stitch of a row into the top of the previous row’s turning chain.

For PDF versions of Stylecraft’s shade cards, visit www.stylecraftyarns.co.uk

Sometimes you are asked to work into a space or chain space. To do this, simply insert your hook into the hole underneath the chain and complete the stitch normally

KEEPING STRAIGHT EDGES Sometimes a pattern will ask you to work only through one loop of the stitch. To work through the front loop only (flo), insert your hook under the front loop of the next stitch, then bring it out at the centre of the stitch, then complete. To work through the back loop only (blo), insert your hook through the centre of the stitch, then under the back loop to the back, then complete the stitch. Sometimes you are even asked to work in between the stitches. In this case, ignore the top loops of the stitch and insert your hook between the posts of adjoining stitches.

WORKING INTO A SPACE Sometimes you are asked to work into a space or a chain space. To do this simply insert your hook into the hole underneath the chain, then complete your stitch normally. This is similar to working into a ring, as shown on page 94.

Knowing which stitch to work into when working straight can be a problem for beginners, because the turning chain has such a role to play. If you don’t know which stitch to work into after making your turning chain, simply unravel back to the last stitch from previous row and insert a thread or stitch marker into that stitch. Make your desired turning chain then miss out the stitch with the thread in (except with dc stitches), as your turning chain now counts as the first stitch of the row. Once you have worked across all stitches in the row, you must remember to put a stitch into the top of the previous row’s turning chain, as this also counts as a stitch. www.insidecrochet.co.uk 93

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HOW TO CROCHET

CROCHET PATTERNS from

BLANKET AND CUSHION PATTERN 9306 Use simple-to-hook mitered square motifs to make these stylish homewares in Carnival Chunky and Special Aran.

WORKING IN THE ROUND When working in the round, instead of working backwards and forwards along the work, turning at the end of each round, you simply work with the right side facing you at all times and you do not turn. When working in the round, you generally begin one of three ways:

WORKING AROUND A RING

WORKING INTO A SHORT CHAIN

ADJUSTABLE RING

This method of working in the round creates a large hole at the centre of your work. Its size is dependent on the length of chain used.

You can create a smaller hole in the centre of your work by working into a chain as short as 2ch long.

This method is also referred to as the magic loop or ring, as it creates a round with no hole at the centre. Here it is demonstrated with double crochet.

Make a length of chain as required, then insert your hook into the first chain stitch you made. Yarn round hook.

For double crochets, as in this example, work 2ch. For htr you would work 3ch and for trebles, 4ch. Make a loop in your yarn, at least 15cm/6in from the tail end. Insert hook through the loop from front to back.

Text Š Inside Crochet/Claire Montgomerie. Illustrations Š Inside Crochet/Sean Miles

Insert hook into the top loop of the first chain as shown. Yarn round hook.

BLANKET AND CUSHION PATTERN 9300 Try the new Stylecraft Batik DK yarn to make these pretty projects with a vintage look.

BLANKET AND CUSHION PATTERN 9307 Combine Carnival Chunky and Special Aran to make this fabulous tessellated design.

Work a slip stitch to join, creating a ring, and then work your turning chain dependent on which stitch you will be working into the ring. Insert hook into the centre of the ring and work the first stitch into this ring.

Complete the first stitch in the chain as shown (illustrations show dc, but can be any stitch).

Work required number of stitches into the centre of the ring and join round with a slip stitch. Do not turn, but continue the next row around the last.

Now work the required amount of stitches into the same chain. The sheer amount of stitches worked into one place will cause them to fan out into a round. Now join this round with a slip stitch and continue with the pattern.

Pull yarn though to front of loop and complete the stitch around the loop and the tail end of yarn held double.

Work all the following stitches into the ring in the same way, over the two strands of yarn in the loop. Once all stitches have been worked, pull the loose tail end of the yarn to close the ring and join the round with a slip stitch.

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HOW TO CROCHET

SHAPING, COLOURWORK & TENSION Once you’ve learned simple shaping stitches, you can create almost any garment – and add in different colours as you go with our simple technique. Make sure to check your tension first though, or your finished piece could be completely the wrong size!

INCREASING

JOINING IN A NEW COLOUR

TENSION/GAUGE

To join in a new colour (or a new ball of the same colour), you can simply fasten off the old yarn and then attach the new colour with a slip stitch into the top of the last stitch made. However, for a neater join, you can also work the colour change as follows: To work an extra stitch, you simply need to work into the same stitch more than once. Work one stitch as normal. Insert hook into same stitch you’ve just worked and complete another stitch. One stitch increased.

DECREASING

Text © Inside Crochet/Claire Montgomerie. Illustrations © Inside Crochet/Sean Miles

To decrease a stitch, you need to work into two stitches without finishing them, then work them together.

For a double crochet (above), insert hook into next st, yarn over hook and draw a loop through the stitch, but do not finish the double crochet stitch as usual. Insert hook into following st, yarn over hook and draw a loop through the next st, so there are three loops on the hook in total. Yarn over hook and draw the loop through all loops on hook, drawing two stitches together. One stitch decreased.

For a treble crochet, work a treble into the next stitch until the last step of the stitch, two loops on hook. Do the same into the following stitch, three loops on hook. Draw through all three loops on hook to draw the two trebles together. One stitch decreased.

Work the last stitch in the colour you are using first, up to the final step, so that the stitch is unfinished. Pull the new colour through the loops on your hook, completing the stitch and joining the new colour at the same time. Working a new colour over double crochet

Working a new colour over treble crochet

Once you have joined in the new yarn, you can weave in the ends of both yarns as you go, by holding them on top of your stitches and working round them as you work into the following stitches. Do this for at least 5cm/2in then cut the remaining ends.

A tension swatch is used to ensure that you are working at the tension called for in the pattern. It is essential to check this, otherwise your finished garment is likely to be the wrong size! Crochet a small square of just over 10 x 10cm/4 x 4in in the main yarn and stitch used in the pattern, then count and calculate the average amount of stitches per cm. Chain a few more stitches and work more rows than the tension in the pattern suggests you’ll need for this size. Once you have completed the swatch, use a measuring tape or ruler, place some pins at 0 and 10 and take some average measurements – count how many stitches and rows to 10cm at different points over the swatch. If you find you have more stitches per cm than indicated in the pattern, then your tension is too tight and you need to work more loosely. The best way to do this is to increase the size of hook you’re using by a quarter or half millimetre until the tension is as close as you can get it. If there are fewer stitches than required, then you are crocheting too loosely, and you need to decrease the size of hook used in the same way.

TURN THE PAGE FOR CLUSTER STITCHES, TIPS AND A FULL GLOSSARY OF CROCHET ABBREVIATIONS, UK VS US TERMS AND HOOK SIZES

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HOW TO CROCHET

CLUSTERS Clusters are groups of stitches worked into the same stitch, but rather than an increase, they still only equate to one stitch overall. Clusters can be confusing to work, so here are the details of some of the main cluster stitches.

BOBBLE

PUFFS

A bobble is a number of stitches (generally trebles), half finished and all worked into the same stitch. Work each stitch until the last step, omitting this final step. Once the desired number of half finished trebles have been completed, you will have one more loop on your hook than you have half finished trebles. Yarn round hook, then pull through all loops on hook to complete the bobble.

A puff is a number of elongated half trebles worked into the same stitch and then finished together, as follows:

POPCORNS Popcorns are a number of complete stitches worked into one stitch.

1 Yarn round hook, insert into next stitch, pull a loop through the stitch and then pull it up to the height of all other stitches in the row.

TIPS ANDTRICKS abcdgg

Working from a pattern ➻ Once you have “cracked the code” and understand the stitches’ abbreviations, a pattern becomes much easier to read. Don’t read a pattern fully before starting it as it may make it seem more complex, but do take a brief look through to check if there any abbreviations you are unfamiliar with. Consult the abbreviations tables opposite before beginning. ➻ Purchase yarn with the same dye lot number on the balls to avoid unwanted colour changes and choose light coloured yarn for your first projects to make sure that you can see your stitches easily – this helps prevent mistakes occurring.

Text © Inside Crochet/Claire Montgomerie. Illustrations © Inside Crochet/Sean Miles

1 Once the sts are completed, remove your hook and insert back into the first stitch worked, then through the final loop.

2 Yarn round hook, insert into same stitch, pull a loop through stitch and pull it up to the height of all other stitches in the row. Repeat this step the desired number of times.

➻ If you are attempting a project with multiple size options, circle or highlight the instructions for the size you are making throughout the pattern to avoid confusion. The smallest size is listed first, then all following ones inside brackets, increasing in size and separated by commas. ➻ Where a pattern has an accompanying chart, use this for reference, as it shows the formation of the stitches as they will be worked and can help with tricky instructions.

2 Yarn round hook and pull through everything on the hook. Popcorn complete.

3 Yarn round hook and pull through all loops on hook. Puff made.

Choose light-coloured yarn for your first few projects to make sure that you can see all of your stitches easily – this helps prevent mistakes occurring

➻ Finally, and most importantly, for projects that need to have a good fit, always check your tension by swatching before you begin.

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HOW TO CROCHET

A note on... Hook sizes

ABBREVIATIONS Note: Inside Crochet uses UK terms throughout alt · alternate bef · before beg · begin(s); beginning bet · between blo · back loop only ch(s) · chain(s) ch-sp(s) · chain space(s) cl(s) · cluster(s) cm · centimetre(s) cont · continue(s); continuing dc · double crochet dc2tog · work two dc together dec(s) · decrease(s); decreasing; decreased dtr · double treble crochet dtr2tog · work two dtr together ea · each ech · extended chain edc · extended double crochet

prev · previous rem · remain(s); remaining rep(s) · repeat(s) rev dc · reverse double crochet rnd(s) · round(s) RS · right side rtrf · raised treble front rtrb · raised treble back sl · slip sl st · slip stitch sp(s) · space(es) st(s) · stitch(es) t-ch(s) · turning chain(s) tog · together tr · treble crochet trtr · triple treble tr2tog · work two trebles together WS · wrong side yd(s) · yard(s) yoh · yarn over hook yrh · yarn round hook

etr · extended treble est · established fdc · foundation double crochet flo · front loop only foll · follows; following ftr · foundation treble crochet g · gram(s) gp(s) · group(s) hk · hook htr · half treble crochet htr2tog · work two htr together inc(s) · increase(s); increasing; increased in · inch(es) lp(s) · loop(s) m · stitch marker mm · millimetre(s) nc · not closed patt · pattern pm · place marker

adjustable ring sl st BREAKING THE LANGUAGE BARRIER UK and US terms have differing meanings which can create difficulty for thech crocheter. Here’s a handy reference guide to overcome any misunderstandings.

bl only

Text © Inside Crochet/Claire Montgomerie. Illustrations © Inside Crochet/Sean Miles

UK TERMS Chain Miss Slip stitch Double crochet Half treble crochet Treble crochet Double treble crochet Triple treble crochet Raised treble back/front

US TERMS Chain adjustable ring Skip Slip stitch sl st Single crochet ch Half double crochet Double crochet bl only Treble crochet Double treble crochet fl only adjustable ring Back/front post dc dc sl st

14

0.75

12

1 1.25

11adjustable ring 7

1.50

6

sl st

5ch

1.75 2

14

bl only

2.25

B/1

2.75 sl st

C/2

adjustable ring 2.5 12 adjustable ring 3sl st

10

3.5 bl only

9

ch 3.25 ch

bl only 3.75 fl 4fl only only 4.5 dc 5dc fdc 5.5 fdc 6 htr htr 6.5 7tr

8tr 9

dtr dtr 10 11.5

trtr 12

trtr

fl only dc

D/3 fdc E/4

htr

F/5 8

G/6

7

7

6

H/8

tr

5

dtr I/9

4

J/10

3

K-/101/2 trtr

2 0

L/11

00

rtrf M /13

000

N/15 O rtrb P

15

Q dc2tog

20

S

rtrf rtrf

tr2tog

tr2tog tr2tog

3-tr cl

dtr

rtrb

tr3tog tr3tog

popcorn

trtr

dc2tog

puff puff

linked tr

tr2tog

3-tr cl 3-tr cl

tr3tog

popcorn www.insidecrochet.co.uk popcorn

puff

linked tr linked tr

fl only

tr

sl st

dc

ch

fdc

bl only

htr

htr

dtr

0.60

rtrf

adjustable ring

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tr

US

puff

htr

fdc

htr

UK

dc2tog dc2tog

bl only

tr

dc

fdc

Metric (mm)

tr3tog

fdc

fl only

dc

CROCHET HOOK SIZES

rtrb rtrb

ch

CHARTS KEY

fl only

➻ Hook sizes and their designations vary from country to country. When following the recommendations in a pattern or on a ball band, make sure to check which size convention is being used.

trtr

rtrf dtr rtrb

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FINAL THOUGHT

“I've always loved cra ft of any sort. Both of my grandmothers were amazingly creat ive an dI drew a lot from the m as a child."

JENNY REID

TIMELESS TEXTURES We chat to Inside Crochet designer Jenny Reid about luxury fibres, favourite techniques and childhood crafting.

Above: Jenny studied textiles at university and taught herself to crochet. Below: Jenny's Elias Waistcoat (issue 77) and Penelope Top (issue 54) are two of her favourite designs.

Tell us about your life… I live in West Sussex with my fiancé, two daughters and chocolate labrador, Harry.

Where is your favourite place to crochet? In front of the fire, under a blanket with a nice cup of tea (or a cheeky glass of wine!).

Have you always been a creative person? Oh yes, I’ve always loved craft of any sort. Both of my grandmothers were amazingly creative and I drew a lot from them as a child.

What one tip would you give to a beginner crocheter? Keep your yarn in your left hand and your hook in the right and don’t swap! (Unless you’re left handed of course!)

How did you learn to crochet? I taught myself how to crochet in my second year of university. It took me a while but one day it just clicked and I was “hooked”!

What’s your favourite crochet technique? Ooh, now that’s hard! I love anything lacy, whether it’s shell work or filet, but I have been working a lot with intarsia at the moment, and it’s fast become a favourite technique!

How did you get into crochet design? I studied textiles at university, which was mainly knit and construct. Crochet sort of became a by-product of that, I had always loved and been fascinated by the craft. After university I worked for design studios in the UK making machine knitted fashion swatches. I started to make crochet yokes and trims and went from there! Is designing your “day job”? It is, and I feel very lucky to have a job that I love so much and get so much from.

Who are your design heroes? Matthew Williamson’s designs are gorgeous! Also Miuccia Prada and Christian Dior for their timeless style. What do you have coming up in 2017? A blog! And I’m getting married in June so lots of pretty wedding inspired designs, flowers, bunting, gifts, favours… the list goes on! View more of Jenny’s patterns at www.ravelry.com/designers/jenny-reid

What has been your most popular design? I would say it is my “Penelope” top from last year. I think the intricacy of the lace pattern and the stunning yarn draws the eye in, and it’s versatile too! And what is your favourite of your designs? That’s a tough one! I love the colour and stitch of my “Elias” waistcoat so I would have to pick that! What are your favourite yarns and fibres to work with? I love to work with luxury fibres such as silk, alpaca and Merino wool. I love the feel of a luxury fibre, the way it glides through your fingers as you work. Putting a little part of me in each design I think it’s important to make it extra special! I also enjoy working with the Drops yarns, they’re incredible value, and Stylecraft Special DK is soft and has an amazing colour range, so is great for big yet budget-friendly blankets! 98 Inside Crochet

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Great value & superb quality

Be

Creative with YEOMAN YARNS

Our great summer cotton and linen range has been a big hit! For autumn we stock another great range of merinos and blends, so here’s a list of main plies and products. The full range can be found on-line, or on receipt of a catalogue or cards.

yeoman-yarns.co.uk

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YEOMAN YARNS Ltd; Kibworth, Leics LE8 0RX Tel: 0116 240 4464 E: sales@yeomanyarns.co.uk W: www.yeoman-yarns.co.uk

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Inside crochet [issue 83]