Baltic Jewellery News (March 2015) No. 28

E XCLUS I V E M AG A Z I N E F O R T H E J E W EL L ERY B US I N E SS I N T H E BA LT I C S E A R EG I O N

March 2015 (28)

FASTEST WAY TO THE BALTIC SEA REGION!

Dear readers, As it happens every year, this spring, too, you are holding a brand new issue of our magazine. We have welcomed the New Year full of hope that this year will be even better and more interesting for each of us, and that the jewellery market will keep on pleasing us with its beautiful pieces as well as successful deals. Ideas are being transformed into something real – real projects – and so we must keep on genuinely believing in what we are doing and enjoy our success.

In this issue you will find a story on plans to start amber mining in Lithuania (in the Curonian Spit, close to Juodkrante) already this year. That is great news for the amber business as the last time amber was mined in Lithuania was back in the 19th century. Also, you will find a report

by International Amber Association which looks into the amber mining sector in Poland. Ukrainian Amber World Association reports on wide-scale illegal amber mining in Ukraine, which has the world’s second largest amber deposits in the market, and on reoccurring legal problems

Our magazine was delighted to get an exclusive interview

and plans to improve this mining sector in the country.

from Jassim Bohamad, an amber collector and the Honor-

Metrosert, Assay Office of Estonia, states that the library

ary Ambassador of a jewellery exhibition, “Amber Trip”, in

legislation on jewellery of some European Union (EU) states

Kuwait. The family of Mr. Bohamad is the first to establish

(including Estonia) does not offer any valuable protection

an amber museum in Kuwait. Ruta Jurkunaite Bruoziene, a

for customers in the jewellery industry. Kaliningrad Amber

Lithuanian fashion designer and a jeweller, talks about her

Combine that controls the world’s largest amber deposits,

artistic quest and a comeback to her childhood.

talks to Baltic Jewellery News about changes in the indus-

We did not forget the topic of amber inclusions. Tree

try. Kaliningrad Amber Combine completely changed the

resins would fall on insects during the most unexpected

procedure of handling counterparties and began active

moments of their trip. Research conducted by Manchester

cooperation with leading jewellers and designers famed in

University reveal facts about behaviour and migration pat-

Russia and in the West.

terns of insects found in amber.

Each piece of amber is unique in its colour and texture and

Our editorial board is also extremely grateful to Anna

becomes even more exclusive through the work of jewel-

Sado for her thoughts and to everyone else interviewed

lery. In this issue Alec Corday shares his thoughts on the

and having developed reports and articles on the jewellery

beauty of blue amber, while Latvian Putti Art Gallery and

market. We hope that with the help of all of you and our

others talk about its exquisiteness in jewellery. Make sure

magazine, the jewellery of the Baltic region will become

not to miss our article on Nobel Prizes awarded to Swed-

more visible worldwide.

ish jewellers. We extend our thanks to the authors of this project for their excellent idea, and thank the Nobel Prize

Enjoy reading the issue!

laureates for their inspiring pieces that enrich our magazine with even more colours.

Virginija ZYGIENE

March 2015 (28)

CONTENT:

20

Polish Jewellery Report

6

Gold Silver Time

9

Amber. Around the World

12

AMBERIF

German Jewellery Report

14

Jewellery & Gem Fair Europe 2015

16

INHORGENTA MUNICH

18

Gemworld Munich

Russian Jewellery Report

20

Amber IS coming back into fashion worldwide

26

JUNWEX

28

Why do artists-amber processors join the Union?

Ukrainian Jewellery Report

30

Ukraine – amber land

32

Amber production – another war

Danish Jewellery Report

36

Glamorous Green amber

38

A&C jewellery out of Love

Swedish Jewellery Report

40

Nobel Jewellery Prize

44

Precious Fair

Finnish Jewellery Report

46

KORUS – International Jewellery Event

32

54

Norwegian jewellery report

Estonian jewellery report

48

Love Me Or Leave Me Or Let Me Be Lonely

52

The safety of jewellery is the customers concern ...

Latvian jewellery report

54

Amber: Like You've Never Seen Before

Lithuanian jewellery report

56

“Amber Trip”

58

Promotion of Lithuanian Jewellery Business Development

74

Amber will be mined in Lithuania

77

Amber brought back the memories of childhood

Worldwide Jewellery Report

80

Price for raw amber by Kaliningrad Amber Combine

81

The Worldwide Price for Raw Amber

82

The Worldwide Price for Raw Amber

84

The Worldwide Price for Amber

85

The Worldwide Gold Price

88

Global gold jewellery market

Dominican Amber Report

90

Is Blue Amber among the world's rarest gems?

Indian Jewellery Report

92

The Future of Amber is in India

Turkish Jewellery Report

96

Istanbul Jewelry Show

International Amber Association Report

98

Amber in Poland

Inclusions 100

74

90

16 million-year-old hitchhiker

Personality 102

Amber is my hobby

Other 104

Jewellery Crime

106

Our friends

108

Caricature

109

Major Trade Fairs in March 2015 – August 2015

110

Advertise in “Baltic Jewellery News“

102

Baltic Jewellery News/ March 2015 (28) Paplaujos st. 5–7, LT-11342, Vilnius, Lithuania Tel/Fax: +370 5 2608497; E-mail. info@balticjewellerynews.com Editor/VIRGINIJA ZGIENE/+370 620 10115; E-mail: info@balticjewellerynews.com Designer/DANA SMITIENE/Translators/VERTIMU GURU and PILIETINĖ GYNYBA, /CIRCULATION 5 000 Reporter: Lithuania: V. Zygiene/ info@balticjewellerynews.com; Poland: A.Sado/ anna.sado@amber.com.pl; M. Kosior/ info@amber.org.pl; Russia: Y.Velikotsky/velikotskiy.yury@mail.ru; Sweden: S. Svedestedt & K. R.Andersson/info@diagonalartprojects.com; Estonia: A. P. Decker/editor@artjewelryforum.org; International: A. Corday/ info@ambarazul.com Distribution in the whole Baltic Sea Region Population over 80 million Copyright: Contents of “Baltic Jewellery News” are copyright. ISSN 2335-2132 Reproduction of material in part or in whole is no permitted in any form without the written authorization of the publisher. The editorial office is not responsible for the content of advertisements and for the accuracy of the facts presented by the authors.

We invite all those whose interests are related to our goals to join our project. Only with the help of various discussions perspective of the jewellery business of the region can become clear and the magazine – better.

Thank you for the cooperation!

AUTOMATIC BELT SYSTEM

T A B L E T

W A X

I N J E C T O R

W W W . R I A C E W A X . C O M

POLISH JEWELLERY REPORT

GOLD SILVER TIME 2015 Press Release by GOLD SILVER TIME Press Office The 16th edition of Gold Silver Time Fair will

These and many other necessary conditions are ful-

now be held in a new place: MT Polska Trade

filled by the modern exhibition hall MT Polska Trade Fair &

Fair & Congress Centre located in Warsaw at

Congress Centre based in Warsaw. This is one of the most

56c Marsa Str.

trendy objects of its kind in the whole country, in addition to a modern exhibition hall with an area of 10 000 m2,

NEW LOCATION

possessing also an outdoor area of 4 000 m2, a conference

“It was a very difficult decision but ultimately better

and office space of 1 200 m2 as well as a restaurant and

development opportunities prevailed – both for the fair

parking lots. It will accommodate all interested exhibitors

and our exhibitors – with the enlargement of the exhibition

not only at the current stage, but also in the long term of

space in one of the halls”, explains Krzysztof Rafal Galimski,

the fair development.

President of MCT International Fair Centre. The area of one

“I realise that the new location is associated with

hall rented in EXPO XXI proved to be insufficient several

changes. As organisers, we will make every effort to make

years ago, resulting in expansion of the list of enterprises

this move the least bothersome as possible. I am sure that

expecting the exhibition sites as well as the individuals

our exhibitors and visitors will soon appreciate its advan-

interested in extending the size of the existing stand.

tages”, says President of MCT.

GOLD SILVER TIME This is the largest autumn trade fair for jewellery and watch industry in Poland which have been held in Warsaw since 2000. It is organised by the International Fair Centre and Visual Arts Studio.

Last year, the 15th edition confirmed the leading role of the fair as a business event for jewellery industry. It was Silver jewellery by Eva Stone

attended by over 300 exhibitors from Poland and abroad,

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6

POLISH JEWELLERY REPORT

and its novelties were introduced to over 6 000 visitors.

Exhibitors' offers are dominated by gold and silver jewellery with encrusted precious stones and jewels, and the fashion jewellery sector is growing in strength year by year. Over the last few years, the participation of amber jewellery manufacturers has grown evidently. It is mainly associated with a growing interest in the stone all over the world (as traders search for quality stones and attractive design, and visit the Warsaw fair in increasing numbers), and also with the implementation of the trade promotion programme of the Polish jewellery and amber industry in 2012–2015. In addition to amber, Poland is also associated with quality silver jewellery, since Polish manufacturers have a great deal to offer, especially in the designer and artistic jewellery sector.

Good spirits in which the last year's fair ended, raise a hope for another, at least as good edition of the fair. There are many indications that this will happen. Exhibitors, as usual, will take care of noteworthy offers appropriate for market, and the new, bigger and eye-catching hall will provide new opportunities for its presentation at the highest level. Forecasts for amber and silver are promising: many amateurs invariably take a delight in the jewellery decorated with amber, and the decreasing cost of stone gives a reason to hope for the recovery of some interest on the part of European customers. Silver is again seen as a noble material, and high-quality silver jewellery with precious stones and pearls celebrates the current sales triumphs.

Conditions for further development both for the industry and the fair now seem to be getting better and better: analysts assume that by 2017, consumer spending on luxury goods in Poland will increase by 11 % to exceed the limit of PLN 14 million (2014: PLN 12.6 million). The largest increases are forecast in the segment of luxury jewellery and watches – turnover from sales is expected to increase from PLN 368 million in 2014 to PLN 466 million in 2017.

The uniqueness of the event which had ambition to be much more than just a place to networking from the very beginning is made up of numerous attractions of the framework programme, led by the exhibitions of contemporary Polish jewellery and contests paying a bonus to creativity of jewellery makers and craftsmen-jewellers.

Gold Silver Time – Jewellery and Watch Trade Show, October 1–3, 2015

Fashion show organised by the Amber. TREASURE OF POLAND

MT Polska Trade Fair & Congress Centre, located at 56c Marsa Str.

CONSORTIUM

www.zlotosrebroczas.com

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8

Report by Anna SADO

N

ine jewelery artists and more than fifty design

we can extract in such a way shades and colors unheard

specimens using a variety of styles and techniques

of in Baltic amber, surprising shades of blue to navy and

with Baltic, Dominican and Sumatran amber –

the deep reds and oranges. This in turn opens up to us as

make the announcement of the exhibition Amber: Around

developers new possibilities for artistic expression,” – says

the World, which will have its premiere at the Amber

Andrzej Kupniewski.

Museum and Amberif fair in Gdansk, Poland.

This is the first exhibition, which is dedicated to not

Nine leading Polish artists accepted the invitation from

one- as has been the tradition so far – but three different

Janusz Fudala, a collector of amber from the USA, to par-

varieties of amber from different regions of the world. How

ticipate in the exhibition Amber: Around the World,

will they appear in symbiosis together? What will be the

organized in collaboration with the Association of Gold-

effects of the combining characteristic yellow color of Baltic

smithing Artists. Its aim is to create unique works, link-

amber with a bluish fluorescence of Sumatran and orange-

ing together three types of amber: Baltic, Dominican and

red of the Dominican? How will the authors manage to

Sumatran, while maintaining the style developed by each

combine their developed styles with the challenge posed

of the invited artists. They were matched so as to create

by the new material? All this you will see on display at the

the most interesting, and most of all diverse exhibition.

exhibition Amber: Around the World, which will have its

The intent is to not only surprise with artistic and modern

premiere at the International Fair of Amber, Jewellery and

form, but also to use an unusual approach to amber. This

Gemstones in Gdansk. The vernisage will take place at the

is done not only with Baltic amber, recently more and more

Exhibition is dedicated to THREE

strengthening its position as a modern stone, but also the

DIFFERENT VARIETIES OF AMBER from

less known in Poland fluorescent blue amber from Sumatra

different regions of the world.

and honey amber from the Dominican Republic. “These stones are still little known, but interest in them in recent years has increased significantly. I hope that the exhibi-

Amber Museum on March 26 at 7 p.m. and will enhance

tion Amber: Around the World will contribute to further

exhibitions of Giedymin Jabłoński and the Academy of

growth of their popularity. Polish artists have gone beyond

Fine Arts in Gdansk. Then the exhibition will be on a

the normal and exposed unique styles, allowing their art-

world tour with stops including Beijing (Polish Pavilion

istry to expose the hidden beauty of these stones”– said

at the Beijing International Jewelry Fair 2015), Legnica

Janusz Fudała, originator of the exhibition.

(Festival SILVER), Ribnitz-Damgarten (German Amber

These artists are: Danka Czapnik, Sława Tchórzewska,

Museum), Warsaw (Museum of Earth Sciences) and Santo

Marcin Tymiński, Andrzej Kupniewski, Jacek Byczewski,

Domingo (Amber World Museum). And all these jewellery

Pawel Kaczynski, Slawomir Fijałkowski, Arek Wolski and

designs by leading Polish designers will be available for

Art7 (Wojciech Kalandyk / Maciej Rozenberg). Their task

purchase as well as viewing at each stop. Each designer

was to create a minimum of six objects using three types of

piece is unique, and in case of a sale, will be duplicated in

amber. For most of them the invitation to participate in this

the image and likeness of the original, but no longer the

exhibition is the first exposure to Dominican and Sumatran

same, because of the uniqueness of the individual pieces

amber. All of them have extensive experience with Baltic

of amber and also the artistic vision inspired by its shape

amber – and this is what became a point of reference for

or color. The exhibition will be accompanied by a catalog

expressing new experiences. “Minerals from the Domini-

with price list of the works and conditions of sale.

The exhibition Amber: Around the World is

can Republic and Sumatra require much greater delicacy and patience to work with, but the end result is worth it:

intended as a recurring event.

www.balticjewellerynews.com

9

POLISH JEWELLERY REPORT

AMBER. AROUND THE WORLD

POLISH JEWELLERY REPORT

Amber jewellery by Sława TCHÓRZEWSKA

SŁAWA TCHÓRZEWSKA: I presented the amber in an unusual way, a bit funny and somewhat perverse. It meant a lot to me that, this collection with various amber, reflected recent years of my work and the changes constantly taking place in my head. Vivid color accents, materials such as textiles, leather and engraved plates – these are my hallmarks. It all can also be found in this collection, which is kind of a crosssection of my previous discoveries and accomplishments. Amber played beautifully into it and became this collection's main protagonist.

Exhibition Amber: AROUND THE WORLD Opening: March 26, 2015 at 7:00 pm, Amber Museum Exposure: International Fair Of Amber, Jewellery and Gemstones Amberif, March 25–28, 2015

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10

POLISH JEWELLERY REPORT

ANDRZEJ KUPNIEWSKI: Amber from the Dominican Republic and Sumatra is quite different in the treatment than the well-known Baltic amber is, because it requires a unique gentleness and patience. It is so rewarding to “invest” in it because the result turns out to be absolutely sensational: it repays you with the beautiful, surprising flashes of blue to darker tones and deep reds through to orange shades. This opens new avenues of expression for artists looking for a whole new set of colors, complementing the already rich palette of Baltic amber. This "artistic training ground" is very important because with the manipulation of rough amber bark, revealing the interior, building the atmosphere of contained inside the nugget, its inherent mystery is exposed.

MARCIN TYMIŃSKI: This exhibition has mobilized me to reach for the materials, which otherwise I would probably not be 'willingly' interested in. The initial effort to get to know these new stones and mastering the principles of their treatment completely paid off. As a result of experiments I discovered amazing textures introducing novelty elements to my latest collection of polished amber. Items designed by me for this exhibit are created in this spirit and yet, thanks to the surprising visual qualities of Dominican and Sumatran amber it is a new collection.

Amber jewellery by Andrzej KUPNIEWSKI Amber jewellery by Marcin TYMIŃSKI

POLISH JEWELLERY REPORT

“URBAN collection, jewellery – AMBERMODA Mariusz Gliwiński, fashion – Adrienne KÖRTVÉLY)

AMBERIF 2015 / 25–28 MARCH

22nd International Fair of Amber, Jewellery and Gemstone

S

Press Release by AMBERIF Press Office  More than 450 companies from Poland, Belgium, Brazil, Czech Republic, Ethiopia, Germany, India, Italy, Japan, Latvia, Lithuania, the Netherlands, Romania, Spain, Thailand, Turkey, the UK and the USA  Buyers from more than 50 countries AMBERIF is a trade-only event, addressed to per-

• Exhibition previews at the Amber Museum, the

sons and businesses who trade in jewellery, jewellery art and

Gdańsk History Museum and at the new head office

functional art. The event’s agenda is developed in partnership

of the International Amber Association

with the SRJ Association of Jewellery Experts, the Interna-

• Ndividual artist exhibitions

tional Amber Association, the Pomeranian Crafts Chamber of

• Presentations of competition entries.

SMEs, the KIGB Polish Chamber of Amber Commerce and the STFZ Goldsmithing Artists Association. The series of

See you in Gdańsk!

gemmology education seminars is developed in partnership with the PAS Museum of the Earth, the University of Gdańsk Museum of Amber Inclusions and the Gdańsk Uni-

REPUBLIC OF POLAND

versity of Technology Faculty of Chemistry.

EU, NATO, Hallmarking Convention Capital Warsaw Official language Polish Currency Złoty (PLN) Time zone CET (UTC+1) – Summer (DST) CEST (UTC+2) Area – 312 685 km2 Population (2014) 38 495 659 Latvia Government Parliamentary republic President Bronisław Komorowski Prime Minister Ewa Kopacz Lithuania GDP (PPP) Per capita (2013) 10 281 EUR Ethnic groups 91.9% Poles Belarus 8.1% others POLAND Largest cities (2013) Warsaw 1 715 518 Krakov 760 700 Ukraine Lodz 718 960

The Amber Look Trends&Styles Gala is one of Amberif’s most important and most spectacular events. Its aim is to promote the latest trends in jewellery art and contemporary design. The Gala is a multimedia show featuring collections from amber and gemstone jewellery designers combined with fashion from celebrated Polish designers. This year, the event will be held at the Gdańsk Shakespeare Theatre. Amberif is accompanied by many art events and prestigious competitions: • AMBERIF DESIGN AWARD – the International Competition for the Design of Jewellery with Amber • The Bogdan Mirowski Mercurius Gedanensis Awardnamed this way for the first time to commemorate the great artist

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GERMAN JEWELLERY REPORT

QUALITY LOOSE MATERIALS SUPPLIERS will gather at Jewellery & Gem Fair Europe 2015 Press Release by JEWELLERY & GEM FAIR EUROPE Press Office

many of our exhibitors in the loose materials section who took part in the first edition are returning, this time with bigger booths,” said Ms Celine Lau, Director of Jewellery Fairs, UBM Asia.

JGF Europe continues to enjoy strong industry support, particularly from recognised jewellery associations. Ms Margaux Donckier, spokeswoman of AWDC, commented, “For the second time, the Antwerp Diamond Pavilion will represent the Antwerp diamond industry at JGF Europe.

A

The companies are ready to meet every demand and offer the best diamonds imaginable.” To celebrate the grand wide range of precious gemstones, coloured

opening of the JGF Europe, the fair reception sponsored

gemstones, diamonds, pearls and jewellery ac-

by AWDC will be taken place on 22 March 2015.

cessories will await buyers at the loose materials

The Vice President of ICA and Editor-in-Chief of Incolor

section of the Jewellery & Gem Fair – Europe (JGF Europe).

Magazine, Ms Jean Claude Michelou, added: “Participating

This section will feature group pavilions from Germany,

ICA members were happy to exhibit at the 2014 edition of

Hong Kong, Thailand, and the United States. Exhibitors

the show. The ICA is joining the fair’s second edition with

under the banner of the Antwerp World Diamond Cent-

a pavilion that will expand further in the years to come.”

er (AWDC), ACODES of Colombia and the International

Group pavilions in loose material section will offer dis-

Colored Gemstone Association (ICA) will also exhibit in

tinct market specialties, such as high quality emeralds from

this section of the fair.

ACODES and corals from the Italian Pavilion. The pavilions

JGF Europe will be held from 22 to 25 March 2015

from Germany, Hong Kong, Thailand and the United States

in Messe Freiburg, Germany. It will feature 400 exhibi-

will showcase a range of beautiful loose semiprecious and

tors from around the world. As of January, over 60 % of

precious stones. Meanwhile, some of the world’s finest

the exhibitors are from various parts of Europe, including:

diamonds will be available at the AWDC Pavilion.

Austria, Belgium, France, Germany, Italy, Latvia, the Neth-

Buyers can also expect to see renowned names in the

erlands, Poland, Russian Federation, Spain, Switzerland,

gemstone market such as Caram e. K., CHQ GmbH, Emil

Turkey, Ukraine and the United Kingdom. The fair also

Weis Opals KG and Paul Wild OHG from Germany, RMC

features suppliers from Australia, Brazil, Colombia, Hong

Gems HK Co from Hong Kong, Imagem from France, and

Kong, India, Israel, Japan, Mauritius, Sri Lanka, Thailand,

M. Golab Co Ltd from Thailand.

the United Arab Emirates, and the United States, reaffirming the show’s international status.

Occupying 25,000 sqm of exhibition area, the fair has expanded from three halls to four halls, including the central foyer. Under the product sectorial concept, it will be divided into three sections – loose materials, fine jewellery

JGF Europe will be held from 22 to 25 March 2015 in Messe Freiburg, Germany. It will feature 400 exhibitors from around the world

and packaging, tools & equipment. “We are so glad that

› www.jgf-europe.com

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14

GERMAN JEWELLERY REPORT

INHORGENTA MUNICH 2015: Positive Impulses for the Industry 8 Exhibitors very satisfied with the high level of orders 8 High quality of the trade visitors 8 International mix of the visitors has increased Report by INHORGENTA MUNICH Press Office

T

his year, the 42nd INHORGENTA MUNICH has

Munich from abroad. The most strongly represented coun-

shown again that it is an important order and com-

tries (in the following sequence) were, among others, Aus-

munication platform for manufacturers and special-

tria, Switzerland, Italy, the Netherlands, Spain, Great Britain

ist dealers. 1,055 exhibitors from 40 countries presented

and Northern Ireland, the Czech Republic and Hungary.

their new products in the period from 20 to 23 February.

The visitors’ satisfaction is also reflected in the results of

Many of them expressed how extremely satisfied they were

the survey conducted by the trade show market research

with the course of the trade show and praised the high

institute Gelszus Messe-Marktforschung: 94 percent of the

quality of the trade visitors and the good level of orders.

respondents rated INHORGENTA MUNICH as excellent, very

As for example Frank Maier, Managing Director at Leo Wit-

good or good. Primarily the atmosphere in the halls and the

twer, who states: “We have had a very good frequency of

high-quality ambiance were unanimously given a very good

international trade visitors and good sales in Hall B2.”

evaluation by the visitors of the trade show.

Klaus Dittrich, Chairman of the Board of Management

In addition, INHORGENTA MUNICH has given fresh

of Messe München GmbH, is also very satisfied: “Despite

impetus to the industry with the Inspiration Lab, which has

the tense situation in the industry, the trade show was char-

taken place for the second time this year. Besides the focal

acterized by a very positive mood. The numerous orders

subject “Made in Germany”, a further focus was on wear-

that were placed show that INHORGENTA MUNICH contin-

able technologies, intelligent jewelry objects and watches

ues to be the most important platform for good business.”

as well as interactive fashion and accessories. The Smart-

Albert Ruppenthal, Managing Director of Ruppenthal,

watch Forum and the Seminar Program presented the

joins in on this opinion: “We are delighted about the high-

watch of the future. In addition, the latest developments

quality trade audience which is even better than in the past

of the 3D printing technology as well as one of the first 3D

years. You really do not have the force anybody, the peo-

body scanners worldwide were presented.

ple are prepared to buy.”

As at previous editions, the trade show offered a

The majority of the 233 new exhibitors announced

springboard for many young international artists and

already during the trade show that they would participate

young talented designers in Hall C2, where they had the

again in the 2016. In total, over 26,000 visitors from more

occasion to present their collections to a wide audience.

than 75 countries came to Munich in order to gather infor-

The next INHORGENTA MUNICH will be held from 12

mation about new products, trends and developments of

to 15 February 2016 at the exhibition grounds of Messe

the industry. About one third of the visitors travelled to

München.

Further information on the trade show can be found at › www.inhorgenta.com

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16

GERMAN JEWELLERY REPORT

WITH MOMENTUM into the new year Report by GEMWORLD MUNICH Press Office

E

ven before most people have properly arrived in

More information about the show and the talent com-

2015, the Gemworld Munich as one of the major

petition can be found at www.gemworldmunich.com.

autumn fairs already throws its sheadow ahead.

The next Gemworld Munich will take place from 30

So already now the registration period for the upcoming

October to 01 November 2015 at the exhibition center

event from October 30 to November 01, 2015 starts. Ex-

Munich.

hibitors have time until April 30 to sign up for one of the most important European trade fairs.

With over 42,000 visitors, of which about 6,000 trade

FEDERAL REPUBLIC OF GERMANY

visitors coming from the jewelry sector, the Munich Show – under whose umbrella the Gemworld takes place – has

EU, NATO Capital Berlin Official language German Currency Euro (EUR) Time zone CET (UTC+1) – Summer (DST) CEST (UTC+2) Area – 357 021 km2 Population (2014) 80 716 000 Government Federal parliamentary constitutional republic President Joachim Gauck Chancellor Angela Merkel GDP (PPP) Per capita (2014) 33 100 EUR Ethnic groups 91.5% German 8.5% others Czech Largest cities Republic Berlin 3 471 756 Hamburg 1 786 448 Bavaria 1 353 186

an impressive record of perfomrance in 2014. Overall, the exhibitors were very satisfied with the previous show and the sales made.

Upon this momentum the organizers want to build in 2015 and continually expand the Munich autumn event as a reliable platform for exhibitors and buyers.

"Young Design" plays a major role for the performance as a trend platform during the Gemworld Munich.

In this context the talent competition "Young Designers Corner" 2015 takes place once again and will be awarded for the fourth time. It was able to convince in recent years with high-caliber submissions. For the final round of 2015 students and graduates of European design academies are now invited to submit their designs until August 31.

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18

Photo: Fa. Hans D. Krieger, Idar-Oberstein – Paraiba-Rings

n io 5! iss r a t 0 1 t m st th 2 n’ e g i 0 Do r r ril 3 to p bi A h i e: ex d l i n a de

Meet the international Gemworld in Munich.

Europe‘s top show for gems & jewellery in autumn. www.gemworldmunich.com

RUSSIAN JEWELLERY REPORT

AMBER IS COMING BACK

INTO FASHION WORLDWIDE Report by KALININGRAD AMBER COMBINE and JSC AMBER YUVELIRPROM Press Offices

R

optimistic about the increased interest in “solar

COOPERATION WITH LEADING JEWELLERS AND DESIGNERS

stone” articles seen all over the world – from

In 2014, Kaliningrad Amber Combine began active

America to Japan. Fashion houses and top designers are

cooperation with leading jewellers and well-known designers

discovering its unique features and creating amazing

in Russia and the West. New large-scale projects opened up

amber jewellery collections, thus, providing a new modern

additional opportunities for a wider range of production –

spin on this ancient natural material. This revived interest

from furniture to jewellery, accessories, and artwork.

epresentatives of today’s amber industry are very

in fashion of amber, already known as the “new pearl”

One perfect example of the new approach is the

among designers, has happened alongside Russian plans

Valentin Yudashkin Royal Amber Jewellery capsule collection

to revive the amber industry and elevate the status of the

designed by fashion designer Valentin Yudashkin who has

“solar stone”.

used the rarest and most expensive “royal” amber produced

The industry is being developed in a number of directions.

by Kaliningrad Amber Combine in the Palmniken minefield.

A major technical upgrade of Kaliningrad Amber Combine’s

This collection, consisting of “solar stone” earrings,

production facilities – the only enterprise in the world that

bracelets, and necklaces, combined with black diamonds,

mines and processes the “solar stone” on an industrial scale

elegantly chased in silver and gold, presented during Paris

– with the support of Rostec State Corporation, made it

Fashion Week in September, 2014, and as part of the prêt-

possible not only to increase the production of raw amber,

à-porter show for Spring-Summer 2015 at the opening of

but also, through the use of innovative technology, to raise

the Moscow Fashion Week, was highly praised by experts

the share of coarse mineral, most popular among jewellers,

and international media for its originality and relevance. The

to up to 40-50% of the total volume.

project gained momentum in 2015, and fashion designer

THIS REVIVED INTEREST IN FASHION OF AMBER, ALREADY KNOWN AS THE “NEW PEARL” AMONG DESIGNERS, has happened

alongside Russian plans to revive the amber industry and elevate the status of the

“SOLAR STONE”

 Advertising campaign for the Royal Amber Jewellery Collection by the Russian designer Valentin YUDASHKIN

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20

RUSSIAN JEWELLERY REPORT

Russia's largest producer of amber articles participates regularly in Russian and international jewellery shows and constantly brings the range of both premium and bulk products to perfection. To meet the increased customer demand for products made of amber and precious metals, the plant has increased the capacities of the silver casting line; it is restoring the section for producing amber jewellery using gold.

Every six months, the company presents new and modern collections designed by talented young artists, designers, and carvers. In 2014 alone, the company produced more than 70,000 units of amber jewellery of 1,300 names.

To market its products, Yantarny Yuvelirprom has

“THE INTEREST OF CONSUMERS AROUND THE WORLD IN “SOLAR STONE” ARTICLES IS A GREAT CHANCE FOR LEADING REPRESENTATIVES OF EUROPE’S AMBER INDUSTRY TO JOIN FORCES TO FURTHER STRENGTHEN THE POSITION OF AMBER IN THE WORLD JEWELLERY MARKET. In this

opened a chain of brand shops, boutiques, in cities – centres of tourism in Kaliningrad region. The concept of the shops embodies a new philosophy and culture of the jewellery trade; it combines a modern architectural design of salesrooms, top-level service, and highly competent sales consultants. Its short-term plans include expansion of the brand retail chain outside the Kaliningrad region, and thereafter – outside Russia.

regard, Russian and European producers should act as solid allies. This primarily means the creation of transparent rules for cooperation and development of fair competition,” says the Director of the company MIKHAIL

A CHANCE FOR AMBER INDUSTRY REPRESENTATIVES TO JOIN FORCES “The interest of consumers around the world in “solar stone” articles is a great chance for leading representatives of

ZATSEPIN

Europe’s amber industry to join forces to further strengthen the position of amber in the world jewellery market. In this regard, Russian and European producers should act as solid

Yudashkin became so passionate about processing this

allies. This primarily means the creation of transparent rules

natural material that he decided to design a second collection

for cooperation and development of fair competition,” says

based on the baroque interior of the famous Amber Room.

the Director of the company Mikhail Zatsepin.

Unique amber articles of Russian craftsmen who

Today, Russia is focusing on the transition from the

skilfully combine traditions with original stone processing

model of a raw material economy to domestic production

techniques, are very popular today and decorate the

with high added value. Let the whole world know that,

interiors of the palaces of Arab sheikhs, villas of Chinese

besides oil, gas, metal ore resources, which have long

billionaires, and ancestral castles of Europe's oldest families.

been associated with our country, Russia possesses one more national treasure – amber. The Kaliningrad region is

AMBER IS REGAINING ITS POPULARITY IN RUSSIA

home to 90% of the world reserves of this unique natural

In Russia, the “solar stone” is regaining its popularity

stone” commercial production, has a special responsibility

mineral, thus, our country, as a monopoly of the “solar for the situation of the world's amber market.

at a spectacular pace, too. This is also attributable to the successful operation of JSC Yantarny Yuvelirprom, a

One of the major threats to the industry is illegal mining

fast growing subsidiary of Kaliningrad Amber Combine.

and illegal market amber turnover. In this regard, Russia

Significant investment was made to upgrade the company’s

considers it important to draw market players’ attention

equipment, so, now it is ready to produce much larger

to the fact that the use of illegally mined and purchased

volumes of jewellery than ever before at a lower cost.

raw materials not only harms the industry through shaving

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22

RUSSIAN JEWELLERY REPORT

articles JSC Yantarny Yuvelirprom, and several of Russia’s leading amber processors and jewellers. The Association is headed by the founder of Emelyanov and Sons AmberRedwood Manufactory – Aleksandr Emelyanov. Among his major objectives, are the promotion of amber processors’ interests, collaboration with international trade associations and state agencies in implementing joint projects, and the development of training and qualification programmes for amber processors.

TODAY’S GLOBAL AMBER MARKET IS GROWING Today’s global amber market is growing. Poland, Ukraine, and Lithuania started mining their own “solar stone”. All In Russia, amber will be sold at revamped luxury-class stores

these countries are our friends and colleagues, with their own long traditions of amber production. And we are very

prices for raw materials and finished products, but also

happy that amber is so popular and so loved worldwide.

promotes the activities of illegal “solar stone” miners,

Russia is open to cooperation with the Baltic neighbours.

who cause irreparable damage to the environment of the

The famous Amber Room is the clearest example of the

entire Baltic region. Therefore, Russia urges all market

intertwining of Russian and European histories of amber.

participants to abandon the use of illegal raw materials

This globally renowned masterpiece, which saw the light

and – as the leader in the amber market – is making

of day by virtue of the talent of architect Schlüter and the

significant efforts thereto itself.

unique craftsmanship of Prussian cutters Turau and Schacht, was enhanced by the efforts of Polish, German and Russian

AMBER COMBINE HAS CHANGED THE COUNTERPARTY HANDLING PROCEDURE

craftsmen under the supervision of Italian Rasstrelli, and

In 2014, Kaliningrad Amber Combine completely changed

German company E.ON Ruhrgas AG, is the most tremendous

later restored by Russian jewellers with the support of the

the procedure for handling counterparties – now the plant’s

piece of work ever created using amber.

amber is available only to enterprises and craftsmen listed in

Keeping in mind the German masters who shared their

the region’s special register of bona fide processors and who

secrets with our stone cutters after World War II and, thus,

have an impeccable professional and business reputation. In

had a great influence on the foundation of the Russian

2015, over 30 Russian companies came together to found

school of decorative amber processing, Russia is now

the Association of Amber Industry, which became the major

ready to launch and create joint international training and

and the first Russia trade association of amber processors.

educational projects.

The Association includes the only enterprise in Russia

Kaliningrad Amber Combine – the worldwide leader

that mines the “solar stone” on an industrial scale – SUE

in amber mining and processing – is planning to establish

Kaliningrad Amber Combine, the largest producer of mineral

a range of creative workshops, production departments, and expositions within the area using its capacities and raw material resources. We invite our colleagues to join these

Today’s global amber market is growing.

projects. Given the benefits of the Special Economic Zone

POLAND, UKRAINE, AND LITHUANIA STARTED MINING THEIR OWN “SOLAR STONE”. All these countries are

in the Kaliningrad region, we hope that this cooperation will be seen as interesting by our foreign partners – both in terms of implementing creative ideas and for expanding

our friends and colleagues, with their own long traditions of amber production.

And we are very happy that amber is so popular and so loved worldwide. RUSSIA IS

their business.

A long time prevailing stereotype that amber is an oldfashioned material, with its heyday now history, has been completely defied. The “solar stone” is rapidly coming

OPEN TO COOPERATION WITH THE BALTIC NEIGHBOURS

back into fashion worldwide, and Russia is eager to do its best to keep amber at the top.

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24

T A B L E T

W A X

I N J E C T O R

W W W . R I A C E W A X . C O M

RUSSIAN JEWELLERY REPORT

JUNWEX NEW RUSSIAN STYLE – Jewellery Show

exhibition and brand promotion. The JUNWEX training centre has developed a complete programme of seminars, workshops, and master classes, with presentations by wellknown marketers, psychologists, business coaches, assaying inspectorate experts, etc. A range of topics, aimed primarily at managers and staff of trading companies, covers advertising, merchandising, occupational health and safety, reducing tax burden, financial monitoring, etc. A Business Contacts

Press release by RESTEC JUNWEX

27

Exchange, enabling more effective negotiations between jewellery vendors and retailers, will be available every day.

May is the opening of the event so beloved

The number of exhibition visitors – both wholesale and

by true luxury adorers of the capital – the

retail – is growing steadily year on year. As the head of the

International Exhibition of Jewellery and

Platina company, Andrey Chernov, noted, “Over the years of

Watch Brands “JUNWEX New Russian Style.” After months

cooperation with Media Holding RESTEC JUNWEX and the

of preparation and lavish expectations, the exhibitors are

Russian Jewellery Trade Club, we formed the consistent habit

ready for serious work, and citizens and guests of Moscow

to replenish the retail collection four times a year. Today, this

City – for spectacular and precious gifts.

supply pattern is fully in step with cyclical operations of the

Perhaps, the first thing worth noticing among the

market. If two exhibitions were enough before, holding four

accents of the project which is held every year in May by

seasonal expositions is a vital foundation today, allowing

Media Holding RESTEC JUNWEX within the single exhibition

both manufacturers and shops to operate successfully.

programme “Jewellery Russia” is the incredibly positive

Thus, “JUNWEX Petersburg” (February), “JUNWEX New

atmosphere, optimistic exhibitors who seek to delight

Russian Style” (May), “JUNWEX Moscow” (September) and

wholesale and retail buyers with unique novelties, brand new

“Best Russian Jewellery” (December) have created a single

designer collections, up-to-date jewellery and accessories, as

and precisely operating system for selling products at trade

well as specialty watch models and watch models as status

shows and delivering only essential additional goods to

symbols. Brilliant fashion shows under the arch of modern

stores in the periods between shows.”

pavilions of VDNH (the Exhibition of Achievements of National

Indeed, the time when a jewellery store’s cooperation

Economy), presentations, surprises, and prize draws at the

was limited to few suppliers has passed. Today, playing by

stands of Russian and foreign brands create a magnificent

the new rules is vital, featuring key elements of demand

sense of celebration, enhanced by glowing jewellery.

and constant marketing, supplying the market with those

You will find much that is interesting and unusual,

products that will be most in demand in the coming season.

astonishing and mysterious, elegant and refined here.

One of the key components of the “JUNWEX New

You will see gorgeous diamond collections of Kostroma

Russian Style” programme is the annual All-Russian Contest

companies, exceptional articles by craftsmen from Ural

“Days of Russian Jewellery Market Leaders.” During each

region, charming jewellery of St. Petersburg companies,

day of the exhibition, a jury consisting of respected art

original works of jewellers from faraway Yakutia, amber

critics will evaluate masterpieces of domestic jewellery

creations from the Kaliningrad region, exotic ensembles of

craftsmen. The names of the winners in eleven categories

Brazilian manufacturers, innovative designs of Asian brands,

are traditionally announced at the gala award ceremony.

rare colour stone jewellery from around the world...

This event is a unique opportunity for visitors to the show

But, you will remember “JUNWEX New Russian Style”

to be the first to see the best works, highly appraised by the

not only for its jewellery delights – there is also quite a busy

competent Board of Experts and rightfully recorded into the

agenda for businessmen. Roundtable meetings will address

honorary “Annals of Russian Jewellery of the XXI Century".

problems between offline and online trade, the rise in the

We invite you to visit our show and find the best jewellery, perfect gifts, business ideas, or just a good mood!

profitability of regional sales, and the role of the mass trade association – “Russian Jewellery Trade” Club – in this process.

RIA RosYuvelirExpert will for the first time hold a so-called “expo-educational programme” for everyone: professional advice on all stages of preparation for the

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26

RUSSIAN JEWELLERY REPORT

WHY DO ARTISTS-AMBER PROCESSORS

JOIN THE UNION? Report by Yuri VELIKOTSKY, Deputy Chairman of the Board of Kaliningrad Regional Branch of the Creative Artists' Union of Russia (KRB CAUR), Head of the Section of Applied Arts and Lapidary

W

now brings together over 70 painters, graphic artists, sculptors, jewellers, and masters of applied decorative arts. Most of Kaliningrad’s “amber craftsmen” are also members of our Union.

Why

do

amber-processing

artists join the Union? What help or benefits are they offered? We can firmly say – none. Each artist

hat

is

about

so

distinctive

working

solves the problems of purchasing

with

raw materials and selling finished

the “Baltic gem”? An

products himself. Some do it better,

artist-amber processor is a little like

some – worse. The only thing that

a musician. Each piece of amber is a kind of note, and the artist’s task is

the Creative Artists' Union helps Yuri VELIKOTSKY

with is organising exhibitions. The

to use these various notes to com-

Board of KRB CAUR uses every

pose his own melody. No two pieces of amber are alike.

opportunity to present the works of our artists to as

Even though an author repeats his work, it is different in

many people as possible, and regularly exhibits creations

the end, not like the previous one. That’s the beauty and

of Kaliningrad craftsmen at Russian and international

uniqueness of amber.

trade fairs. We believe that a fair is not just a show of

Artists treat the “Baltic gem” differently. Glancing at

new works created over the past year, not just a sharing

a piece of amber, each craftsman sees its fate in his own

of experiences with colleagues and like-minded people,

way. One imagines it as a future piece of jewellery and

but also a chance for artists to socialise informally with

thinks about how to combine amber and metal to high-

officials at various levels, which can sometimes be difficult

light the beauty of the stone. The other considers how

in normal everyday life.

to bring the natural pattern of different pieces of amber

For example, the Vilnius “Amber Trip 2014” happened

together and to create an expressional design, either relief

to be the place where “amber craftsmen” from Kaliningrad

or mosaic.

were lucky to meet the new Director General of Kaliningrad

Amber lovers know the names of our artists: Elena

Amber Combine, Mikhail Zatsepin. Though, no significant

Gradinarova, Aleksandr Koroliov, Konstantin Bushmelev,

results were achieved initially, this meeting allowed artists

Elena Tikhomirova, Mikhail Vorobyov, Lev Romanenko, and

to talk informally to one of the heads of the amber industry

many others. The artists’ works are exhibited at the largest

in Russia for the first time, to show their own works (one

trade fairs of Russia and Europe.

of them acquired by Michael Zatsepin for his collection).

Artists shared the challenges they faced in obtaining the

ARTISTS-AMBER PROCESSORS JOIN THE UNION

raw amber needed for their creative work. As a result of

Kaliningrad Regional Branch of the Creative Artists'

firmly promised to address the problem of supplying the

the meeting at the Amber Trip 2014, Mikhail Zatsepin

Union of Russia (KRB CAUR) was established in 1998 and

artists with amber.

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28

RUSSIAN JEWELLERY REPORT Yuri VELIKOTSKY

Each artist solves the problems of purchasing raw materials and selling finished products himself.

Some do it better, some – worse.

It took some time, not just a day, to complete all the paperwork, but it was done in the end – so, for the first time in 15 years, members of the Creative Artists' Union had official access to the raw materials for their work and,

THE ONLY THING THAT THE CREATIVE ARTISTS' UNION HELPS WITH IS ORGANISING EXHIBITIONS

of utmost importance, at government rates.

As a result, many artists were, finally able to implement their long-cherished projects, which previously seemed unachievable due to the lack of quality raw materials. I hope you will see many of these works at “Amber Trip 2015” and other trade fairs and shows of our region.

Aleksandr KOROLIOV

Elena TIKHOMIROVA

THE RUSSIAN FEDERATION Capital Moscow Official language Russian Currency Russian ruble Time zone in Moscow (USZ1 (UTC+03:00) Area 17,1 million km2 Population (2015) 146 270 033 Government A federal semi-presidential republic President Vladimir Putin Prime Minister Dmitry Medvedev GDP (PPP) Per capita (2013) 34 342 EUR Ethnic groups (2010) 91.65% Russians 1.42% Ukrainian 6.93% others RUSSIAN Largest cities FEDERATION Estonia Moscow 12 111 194 Saint Petersburg 4 879 566 Latvia Novosibirsk 1 473 754

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29

UKRAINIAN JEWELLERY REPORT

UKRAINE – AMBER LAND Incorrigible romantics and strategic direction for development of the industry

S

Report by UKRAINIAN AMBER WORLD ASSOCIATION

“Time Traveler”. Amber from “Volodymyrets-Skhidnyi” amber deposit

F

Brooch and pendant "Papillon", "Methamorphosis" collection of the Organic Jewellery® direction by the maison "Karpov&Karpova Jewellery". Materials used: gold, diamonds, Ukrainian amber

or everyone who keeps hand on the pulse of amber market tendencies, the situation in Ukraine seems to be consistently helpless. In 2014 on the back-

ground of generally difficult situation in the country, all chronic problems exacerbated, including issues in the field of amber. But is it really so sad, as it all seems?

Ukraine ranks second in the world for the reserves of amber, but the intricate regulation of subsoil use, excessive complexity of the procedure of obtaining special permission for use of mineral resources, the need to obtain series of approvals to start mining operations discourages potential investors from investing money in the development of amber deposits. Thus, industrial amber extraction is currently carried by only two companies – State enterprise Burshtyn of Ukraine and private company Sun-Craft Centre” LLC. Prices on the world amber market, small responsibility for illegal mining, relative cheapness and ease of artisanal mining technologies because of its near-surface occurrence – all this caused a real explosion of illegal amber

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30

draft laws governing amber mining to the legislators: “On

According to law enforcement reports, area of illegal

peculiarities of extraction of raw amber from deposits and

extraction of amber was dramatically expanded over the

manifestations that have no industrial value“, “On pro-

last year, capturing not only the Rivne region and but also

duction and sale of amber“, “On artisanal amber mining

the northern side of Zhytomyr region.

activities“.

Volodymyr Sokolovskiy, Supervisory Board Chairman,

Active attention of public and mass-media to the

Ukrainian Amber World Association: According to the vari-

“amber issue” allows us to hope that the review and revi-

ous estimates, up to 80 % of Ukrainian amber is currently

sion of laws, and current issues of civilized regulation of

mined illegally by so-called “black diggers”. Unfortunately,

all directions of the field will not be postponed, and the

in 2014, the tendency of illegal mining of amber was only

country will be recovered from the “amber fever“.

strengthened. More and more often appears reports in

Halyna Symha, Council Chairman, “Ukrainian Amber

media about new clashes between “diggers”.

International

experience

World” Association, member of the World Amber Council,

indi-

On our

cates the only way to solve these

“AMBER ROUTE”

problems – a legalization of min-

map already pointed by bright amber beads following cities: WARSAW,

eral resources extraction by artisanal method, precise regulation of artisanal miners and cooperatives of pros-

MUNICH, BERLIN, ISTANBUL, MONACO, BAKU, BEIJING

pectors, creating market and sales conditions for extracted amber.

Based on best practices from around the world, NGO Ukrain-

Art-object “Aboriginal Sun”, made of natural amber. “Ambra Simha” collection

ian Amber World Association developed the project of amendments to the Code of Ukraine on mineral resources and project of “Roadmap of legalization of artisanal amber mining”. These materials

AMBRA SIMHA owner: “I am an incorrigible romantic and

were sent for consideration to the Cabinet of Ministers of

believe, that Ukraine will be known not only as a country

Ukraine and the President of Ukraine.

that has a “sunny treasure“ in its subsoil, but also as a civi-

Implementation of these changes into Ukrainian leg-

lized state that has a system of legal and environmentally

islation will give the opportunity of legal production and

correct amber extraction and production, without harm-

selling of minerals extracted by artisanal mining method,

ing the nature...

which in its turn will significantly reduce social tension

Unfortunately, it is not working in full today, because

caused by the lack of job positions in local area and will

there are only two companies which doing amber extrac-

help to bring out large amounts of amber from “black

tion legally. But we believe and do everything to ensure

market”. In addition, the proposed “Roadmap” provides

that the situation has changed for the better in the amber

implementation of recultivation activities on the territories

mining sector.

suffered from illegal mining that will allow to keep the

Now, we keep on paving modern “Amber Route” and

fertile soil layers, restore forest plantations and to prevent

carry our “amber philosophy” to the World, making it

other environmental issues.

amaze by creative, impressive and status projects made of

Belichenko Olena, The head of expertise department,

pure natural “sunny stone”. On our “Amber Route” map

State Gemology Centre of Ukraine: “Unauthorized amber

already pointed by bright amber beads following cities:

extraction problem can be solved only in condition of

Warsaw, Munich, Berlin, Istanbul, Monaco, Baku, Beijing

implementation of legislation, which will regulate artisanal

... And we’re preparing “amber surprise” for “Continent of

amber extraction and simplification of the procedure of

the Sun” – Australia.

obtaining the special permits for subsoil use on the con-

I am firmly convinced that insistent dreamers are

taining amber territories that have no industrial value. In

changing the world and giving a miracle of cognition of

December 2014 – January 2015 were proposed the several

what have been created by Creator”.

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31

UKRAINIAN JEWELLERY REPORT

extraction on the territory of Ukrainian Polissya region.

UKRAINIAN JEWELLERY REPORT

AMBER PRODUCTION – ANOTHER WAR AMBER DEPOSITS OF ZHYTOMYR REGION ARE OCCUPIED BY THE WORLD OF CRIMINALS, WITH THE LEGALISATION OF AMBER PRODUCTION MAKING A MOVE FROM TALKS ... TO TALKS Report by Viktor KONEV from www.zn.ua

P

itted land, armed men at checkpoints, exhausted

Deposits of amber in the Zhytomyr region are distinctive

and nervous folk around... Sometimes, there is

because of the fact that large companies see little point in

gunfire and bloody clashes. This is not about long-

facing the time-consuming permit issuing bureaucracy for

suffering Donbass. This is about the north of Zhytomyr

the exploration and production of stone and in paying a

region, Olevsk district. This is the land of amber deposits.

lot of money for the license. Amber production is actually

You could get rich suddenly here, if you were lucky enough

prohibited to individual artisanal miners and mining

to find amber and provided the mined stone is not taken

cooperatives since neither of them is prescribed in the

away by police officers or gangsters.

Ukrainian legislation. This is the way the legislative void is

Here, in deep Polesye, employment is quite a problem.

filled with lawlessness. As a result, a certain kind of order has

Agriculture is poorly developed – just sands and rocks.

formed: those wanting to dig the earth shall pay 300 UAH

Practically, no industry. Deposits of amber are a salvation

per day to a bandit in return for access to amber deposits.

from poverty. Any stone extracted can be sold right here.

The reason for the “criminalisation” of amber is because

The chance to earn a living in this way and the security

amber is considered as precious a stone as diamonds.

guarantees come with a price. Not to be paid to a tax offi-

It has been apparent for a long time that the solar stone

cial though, but to bandits, as everybody understands.

production by miners needs to be legalised. But it always

There are militia raids from time to time just to take away

ends in talk. So, on 10 December 2014, the Verkhovna

amber extracted by accidental minors. But bandits have

Rada registered a draft law “On the production and sale of

ruled before and continue to rule, as local residents say.

amber” (No. 1 351), in which the concepts of “artisanal min-

In fact, amber has to be produced illegally in Zhytomyr

ing claim” and “artisanal mining cooperative” were applied.

region because the legal way is impossible owing to a gap

The essence of the document is that deposits of amber

in the law: it is not profitable to extract the local amber

in the Zhytomyr region should be the scope of a special

industrially, like the neighbouring Rivne region, however,

communal enterprise (CE) under regional subordination. CE

the current law does not stipulate any other legal ways.

should be entrusted to deal with all aspects of relations

The wealth, which is literally knocking around, does not

with artisanal mining cooperatives – starting from land

leave anyone cold. Almost everyone who lives near the

allocation to sales of mined stone on an amber exchange

deposits is engaged in illegal amber digging. Diggers from

(which still does not exist). Mining cooperatives have to pay

neighbouring districts and regions, in particular, from

20% of the CE proceeds from the sale of extracted stone

Rivne arrive, too. As a result – harsh clashes like the one at

on the exchange for the use of subsoil as a mining claim.

the end of January in the village of Suschany where each

This draft law was proposed for consideration by the

party was represented by over 300 people that faced each

People's Deputies Borislav Rosenblatt, Vladimir Areshonkov,

other.

Pavlo Dziublik, Nikolai Tomenko, Vadim Krivenko, and

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32

of the few scholars to have described deposits of amber in

stage. For this purpose, a task group of regional council

the north of Zhytomyr region), all the amber will have been

deputies, representatives of the regional administration,

mined from the area in one and half years, never mind 20

and experts-geologists was formed in Zhytomyr. The

or even five years.

discussion also involved governors of northern areas of

Perhaps the authors of the draft law had not under-

Zhytomyr, with existing or potential deposits of amber.

stood this. But there is a suspicion that such a rule was

During the first meeting of the task group on February

introduced into the text intentionally, in order to allow full

4 in Zhytomyr, an assistant of one of the authors of the

production of amber in the guise of a survey area, without

draft law Borislav Rosenblatt – Maxim Glushanitsa noted

showing the entire amber production, and also saving on

that the purpose of the developed legislation was to

other payments, as is now done with granite extraction.

regulate the relationship between business entities, state

According to Dr Remezova, one of the reasons for

and local governments, as well as to reduce tension in the

the criminalisation of amber production in the Zhytomyr

region, which is undergoing spontaneous production of

region was the classification of this stone on a par with

amber, and to avoid an environmental catastrophe. The

diamonds. This is guaranteed by the Resolution of the

draft law requires the participation of so-called artisanal

Cabinet of Ministers of 18 May 1993 (No. 5 393) “On the

mining cooperatives in the production. Production control

State Assay Office”. In Poland, for example, amber has the

rests with the local authorities at the regional level. For

status of an ornamental jewellery stone. There, the issuing

this purpose a utility of a corresponding profile should be

of permits for production and formalising mining claims is

created, one of the objectives of which should be maximum

assigned to the local authorities.

simplification of licensing procedures for artisanal mining

The expert noted the need to legally define the maxi-

cooperatives. In this case, they may be only those entities

mum depth at which it will be possible to produce amber

or individuals that are registered in the area, so that all

by an artisanal method. It is one thing to dig to a depth

taxes and fees are paid to the local budgets (and not to the

of one metre with a shovel and quite another - to extract

bandit “common fund.” – VK).

from a depth of ten metres using heavy equipment that

Judging by the presentation of the draft law, and

harms the environment.

flow charts with commentary, the draft law was prepared

Dr Remezova also noted that the draft law is unclear as

meticulously. However, it is impossible to speak about the

to who is the “artisanal miner”. In the usual sense they are

creation of a legal mechanism that works perfectly.

the ones who produce resources where it is impossible to

Participants in the discussion immediately raised the

mine in an industrial way, or where using heavy machinery

question: why are village councils not allowed to partici-

is unprofitable. However, this is not mentioned in the draft

pate in the regulation of amber production, especially since

law being discussed.

so many excavations are on parcelled lands? According to

Moreover, in her opinion, the future law should specify

one opponent of the amber Mafia, a young journalist from

where using the artisan method to extract minerals is

Olevsk named Alekandr Nikolaichuk, more than half of the

banned. For example, laws of some countries prohibit

amber production areas are privately owned. In addition,

artisanal activity in areas where minerals are industrially

as noted by the discussion participants, most of the land

mined, and in the areas, where special permits have been

is zoned for agriculture. Plus there are significant deposits

or may be issued for their development. Finally, laws in

on forest lands, including reserves and sanctuaries. How

some countries prohibit artisanal activity in the reserves.

to deal with amber mines in these areas is unclear, and the

And, of course, the use of ground flushing pumps that

draft law does not regulate this issue. So, criminals will still

irreparably harm the environment should be prohibited.

have some control over the mining of the solar stone, if the

The expert noted the need for further geological sur-

draft law in is adopted in its current form.

veys of the deposits of amber and their tracking. Geolo-

Does the draft law eliminate corruption schemes? No.

gists described features of amber occurrences in the Zhy-

Rather, they have been introduced into it. In particular, Art.

tomyr region as early as the 1980s, but very superficially,

5 prescribes that five years are allocated for geological sur-

as if ‘by the way’, and now pre-surveys are needed. If this

veys of amber deposits and 20 years – for mining. Accord-

is not done, a significant amount of resources will simply

ing to the expert, Dr Elena Remezova, Senior Researcher at

be lost. That is exactly why Polish authorities map amber

the Institute of Geological Sciences of Ukraine (she is one

occurrences and do not economise on financing these sur-

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33

UKRAINIAN JEWELLERY REPORT

Vasili Janicki. Now, it is at the discussion and finalisation

UKRAINIAN JEWELLERY REPORT

Schematic Map of Deposit Fields and Occurrences of Amber in Ukraine Ancient Eastern European (pre-Riphean) Platform Structural zoning: I.

The Ukrainian Shield (within the isopic base depth of 300 m) The Volynsk-Podolsk Platform The Palaeozoic Lviv Trough The Cretaceous-Paleogene Black Sea Basin V. The Mesozoic DnepropetrovskDonetsk Trough VI. The Devonian-Early Carboniferous PripyatskDnepropetrovsk Trough (Central Graben) VII. The Southern Flank of Voronezh Crystal Diastrophic Block, EpiPalaeozoic Scythian Platform VIII. The Early Cretaceous RiftInduced Karkinit Northern Crimea Trough IX. The Cretaceous-Paleogene Central Crimea Elevation X. The Cretaceous Alma Basin Contorted Beds and adjoining troughs XI. GERTSINK 1. The Marmarosh Diastrophic Block, reworked by the Alpine Orogeny 2. The Northern Dobrudja, Reworked by Cimmerian Orogeny 3. The Donbass XII. The Carboniferous-Early Triassic Pre-Dobrudja Marginal Trough II. III. IV.

XIII. The Cimmerian-Alpine Crimean Upland and the Kerch Peninsula

THE ALPINE XIV. The Ukrainian Carpathian Mountains XV. The Miocene-Pliocene Trans-Carpathian Inner Trough XVI. The Miocene Pre-Carpathian Marginal Trough XVII. The Oligocene-Miocene Indol-Kuban Marginal Trough

 AMBER OCCURRENCES AND FINDS 1. Gulyanka 2. Barashi 3. Glinka 4. Sushki-Belka 5. Ushomir 6. Mogilyany 7. Ovruch 8. Zbranki 9. Slovechno 10. Maidan 11. Perga 12. Kopishche 13. Prysluch 14. Berezne 15. Osova 16. Rakitnoye 17. Perebrody 18. Sarny 19. Tseptsevychi 20. Berezhnytsia

21. Ivanychi 22. Kidry 23. Triputnya 24. Niveck 25. Berestia 26. Dubrovica 27. Mochulishche 28. Lyutynsk 29. Vysotsk 30. Lyudyn 31. Yasynets 32. Lesovoye 33. Zhuravychi 34. Bol. Medvezha 35. Oleksandrivka 36. Volodymyrivka 37. Stara Moshchanytsya 38. Mogilyany 39. Individual amber finds

40. Individual amber finds 41. Yavorov 42. Individual amber finds 43. Individual amber finds 44. Lviv 45. Verkhnje Synovydne 46. Individual amber finds 47. Rozdol 48. Individual amber finds 49. Individual amber finds 50. Individual amber finds 51. Delyatin 52. Mizuny 53. Radomyshl 54. Mezhyhirya 55. Bucha 56. Vyshgorod 57. Rzhyshchiv 58. Kanev 59. Horol Chorol

60. Kremenchuk 61. Novomoskovsk 62. Dnipropetrovsk 63. Kharkiv 64. Novovorontsovka 65. Kamyanka-Dniprovska 66. Berislav 67. Kahovka 68. Novoazovsk 69. Yalpug 70. Syrnitsa 71. Rafalovka 72. Gorodets 73. Huta Stepanska 74. Zlazne 75. Zamyslovichi 76. Ustynivka

veys. “The nation needs to know what it holds, otherwise

AMBER-BEARING AREAS 1. Klesov-Perzhansk 2. DubrovytsyaVolodymyrec 3. Barashev 4. Menevychi 5. Mohylyany 6. Verkhnodniprovsk 7. Srednedniprovsk 8. Nizhnedniprovsk (Prichernomorsk) 9. Carpathian

SECONDARY AMBER CCURRENCES 1. Klessov 2. Vilna 3. Petrivci 4. VolodymyrecVostochny 5. Viktoriv

POTENTIAL OCCURRENCES 1. Gulyanka plot 2. Barashi plot 3. Glinki 4. Sushki-Belka

– North Zhytomyr region and, in particular, Olevsk

we will miss a lot,” –emphasised Elena Remezova.

area are under criminal occupation, – said the journalist

The scientist’s deep and comprehensive analysis of the

and human rights activist. It is the bandits who have suc-

draft law at the hearing apparently tired the Chairman of

ceeded, as they have done something that the Govern-

the task group meeting, the Deputy Head of the Zhytomyr

ment failed to do – they streamlined the production and

Regional State Administration Vyacheslav Polishchuk, and

sale of mined amber. Despite periodic police raids, armed

he suggested the scientist email her written comments. As

bandit groups keep manning the same checkpoints they

if, instead of exchange of views, the purpose of the event

have installed and keep collecting 300 UAH per day from

was to exchange e-mails.

those wishing to dig for amber. And they do this without

“Bandits did something that was not made by the Gov-

hiding from anyone! And in the villages of Suschany and

ernment – they streamlined production of amber.” And

Khochin (Olevsk district) armed bandits block traffic on the

have taxed it with their own tax...

road leading to a border crossing point on the Ukrainian-

A statement by the journalist and human rights activ-

Belarusian border. Bandits force their terms on us! How are

ist of Olevsk Alexander Nikolaichuk, conducting his own

they better than terrorists in East Ukraine?

investigation of illegal extraction of amber in the northern

As Alexander Nikolaychuk said, the police occasionally

regions of Zhytomyr, was very incisive. He literally accused

conduct raids, during which they take away amber found

law enforcement of inaction. According to him, the law

by ordinary seekers of luck, local residents, but they do

needs to be adopted, but before it is done the situation

not touch the criminals. At the same time, nearly all the

should anyway stay within the legal framework. And this is

locals there dig for amber and consider it to be their own

just not the case. Indeed, how law enforcement agencies

resource. To take over the control from criminals, local

should be managed and what kind of agencies are they,

amber mining has to be legitimised.

if tons of illegally mined amber are taken out “with them

– Back in 2007, a geography teacher in our school

watching”?!

burned pieces of amber, and said that it may be the cause

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34

UKRAINIAN JEWELLERY REPORT

of a future war. Honestly, I did not believe it then, – admitted the journalist.

So, the deputies understand that the unregulated production of amber in the Zhytomyr region should be streamlined and legitimised. However just adopting a relevant draft law is no longer enough – it is too late for that, and the initiative is in the hands of criminals now. It needs to be taken over. But this means another war on the territory of our sovereign state.

WHERE UKRAINIAN AMBER OCCURS As Elena Remezova told the correspondent of ZN.UA, there is a major geological amber area stretching along the Dnieper River (see the schematic map). The greatest concentration of amber deposits is in Rivne region, mainly in Sarn-

has a wide colour range. For example, rare green amber is

ensk and Volodimirets districts. There are three “official”

found in the area of the village of Perga. However classic

deposits which are included in the Government balance

honey-yellow colours are dominant.

sheet: Klesovsk, developed by state enterprise “Ukrbur-

By the amount of extracted amber, Ukraine is second

shtin,” Volodimirets-Eastern, developed by a private com-

only to Russia. Yet, the quality of Ukrainian amber is much

pany ‘Sonyachne Remeslo’. The third deposit, “Vilne”, is not

better. For instance, if Russian deposits generate as low

yet under development. Other deposits are being explored.

as 10–15 % of jewellery grade amber, the Ukrainian ones

Unlike Rivne, Zhytomyr region most likely has a few

generate at least 25 %.

large deposits or none at all. The most attractive ones are

And finally let us discuss amber prices. The Internet sell-

primarily the area near the village of Perga (Olevsk district),

ing prices for raw unprocessed amber from Ukraine are as

a small area near Barashi village (Emilchinsk district). Only

follows: the fraction of 2 to 5 g – 205 USD/kg; 5 to 10 g

Viktorovsk deposit (also Emilchinsk district), included in the

– 540 USD/kg; 10 to 20 g – 1,160 USD/kg; 20 to 50 g –

balance sheet of PJSC “Kvartssamotsvety”, was explored

1,780 USD/kg; 50 to 100 g – 1,980 USD/kg; 100 to 200 g –

with a view to industrial mining. All these deposits need to

2,420 USD/kg. Larger pieces range from 200 g to 1 kg and

be explored more thoroughly. In that area the distribution

are sold at special prices.

of amber is not homogenous, it has a pattern of nest concentrations. The very nest may contain much stone, however, if you step back a little – there is nothing around. And if the deposits of Rivne region have some consistent amber

UKRAINE

distribution patterns, these have not yet been discovered

Capital Kiev Official language Ukrainian Currency Ukrainian hryvnia (UAH) Time zone CET (UTC+2) – Summer (DST) CEST (UTC+3) Area 603,628 km2 Population (2014) 44 291 413 Government Unitary semi-presidential constitutional republic President Petro Poroshenko Prime Minister Arseniy Yatsenyuk GDP (PPP) Per capita (2013) 7 498 EUR Belarus Ethnic groups 77.8% Ukrainians 17.3% Russians 4.9% others Largest cities Poland Kiev 2 872 200 UKRAINE Kharkiv 1 470 902

in Zhytomyr region.

“You need to look for other types of amber “traps” here than in Rivne region, where such traps had been formed by the ancient sea,” explains Elena Remezova, “It could be a spit, a bay bar, or a sink hole. In Zhytomyr, with a higher terrain, all non-homogenous deposits are distributed along ancient valleys and require special study methods. We can confidently say that that amber deposits in Zhytomyr are small, however abundant. Olevsk, Emilchinsk, Korosten districts are also known for deposits. They could probably also exist in Ovruch and Luginsk districts. People also used to find amber in Radomyshlsk district”.

According to the scientist, Zhytomyr amber is of high quality, it is no worse than the Baltic or Klesovsk one. It

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35

DANISH JEWELLERY REPORT

HOUSE OF AMBER PRESENTS NEW COLLECTION:

“GLAMOROUS GREEN AMBER BY MAI MANNICHE”

“I'm very proud of the cooperation with House of Amber. It has been fascinating and inspiring to work with amber and create new designs that use amber in other ways than we are used to seeing, ” says jewellery designer Mai MANNICHE

www.balticjewellerynews.com

36

A

House of Amber is one of the oldest manufacturers

of amber and today also one of the largest. The company

new collaboration between the historic jewellery

was founded in 1933 and has for generations been guar-

house and the trendy designer brings amber to

anteeing exclusive amber jewellery of the highest quality.

life in new sparkling styles.

In recent years, House of Amber has presented a number

Caribbean green amber is a unique type of amber,

of collections in collaboration with talented Danish design-

which the Danish jewellery designer Mai Manniche,

ers. Collections are sold in Scandinavia, China and Hong

JEWLSCPH, fell in love with at first sight. She has designed

Kong. Read more about House of Amber: www.houseo-

a jewellery collection for House of Amber, which will be in

famber.com

House of Amber's Scandinavian shops from 1st of Novem-

ber 2014.

ABOUT MAI MANNICHE, JEWLSCPH

Mai Manniche is known and cherished for her beau-

Mai is the woman behind the jewellery company

tiful contemporary designs and high quality – House of

JEWLSCPH. She is driven by her passion for gemstones and

Amber is known for its dedication and love to amber. Thus

precious metals in beautiful designs. At the same time, Mai

the stage is set for a perfect match.

emphasizes jewellery styling and how the perfect piece of

The jewellery collection “Glamorous Green Amber

jewellery helps to highlight all women's individual style.

by Mai Manniche” is centered around faceted Caribbean

Read more about JEWLSCPH:

green amber combined with cherry amber or white topaz

› www.JEWLSCPH.com & www.MAIMANNICHE.dk

gemstone in rose gold plated sterling silver. A beautiful and elegant – but also very innovative look – which will

Pure drop by Mai MANNICHE

match today's modern women.

“Glamorous Green Amber by Mai Manniche” consists of three jewellery lines: “Pure Drop”, “Divine” and “Glam” with prices from 995 kr.

Glam by Mai MANNICHE

KINGDOM OF DENMARK EU, NATO, Hallmarking Convention Capital Copenhagen Official language Danish Currency Danish krone (DKK), 1 EUR – 7.4605 DKK Time zone CET (UTC+1) – Summer (DST) CEST (UTC+2) Area 357 021 km2 Population (2014) 5 639 719 Government Unitary parliamentary constitutional monarchy Monarch Margrethe II Prime Minister Helle Thorning-Schmidt GDP (PPP) Per capita (2013) 36 597 EUR Sweden Ethnic groups 87% Scandinavians 13% others Largest cities Copenhagen 1 935 746 Aarhus 252 213 Odense 158 678 DENMARK

Divine by Mai MANNICHE

Glam by Mai MANNICHE

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37

DANISH JEWELLERY REPORT

ABOUT HOUSE OF AMBER

Press Release by HOUSE OF AMBER Press Office

NORWEGIAN JEWELLERY REPORT

A&C JEWELLERY OUT OF LOVE

By A&C Press Office

away. They decided they wanted their travel to last forever, and started up as street sellers in Tokyo, where they offered their first collection of home made jewellery.

Lars Tore HOGSNES is director, while the founders Birgit LØITEGAARD and Franz TITULAER are head of the designdepartment and the export department

A&C

is a story about daring to be different, believing in yourself and making your own choicTraveling Japan as street sellers – the early beginning of A&C

es. It’s about endless optimism, creativity and willpower.

By telling their story jewellers want to inspire you to tell yours…

After living in Japan, Birgit & Franz found paradise on an Philippine Island and built their own bamboo house on a sandy beach. They worked and lived among the Philippine mountain tribes and started to export local handicraft to Europe. This experience gave the young couple a hard lesson in the ways of life - human relations, culture, politics, and corruption. After six years of travelling and living in Asia, they decided to move back to Europe.

Back in Norway in 1984 the couple continued to sell jewellery and the handicraft they had produced on the Philippines – quality products of real craftsmanship - hence the company was founded, and the name was "Arts & Crafts".

A&C founders, Birgit and Franz met on a golden beach

A&C headoffice is located in beautiful green surroundings in Lier, not far from Oslo, in an old beautiful dairy

Arts & Crafts is a Norwegian jewellery company found-

building. Lars Tore Hogsnes is director, while the found-

ed in 1984 after the two designers had met on an adven-

ers Birgit Løitegaard and Franz Titulaer are head of the

turous trip through Asia back in the late 70ies. She was

designdepartment and the export department. All the

from Norway and he was from Holland, they back packed

functions of design, administration, sales, marketing and

their way through Asia and met on a golden beach far

logistics are handled from here.

www.balticjewellerynews.com

38

NORWEGIAN JEWELLERY REPORT Their bijouterie is handmade of non-precious metals

Check › http://www.ac.no

such as copper, pewter and metal alloy. Earring hooks and posts are made of surgical steel. The metal is plated with silver, gold, copper, brass or rhodium. Much of our jewel-

KINGDOM OF NORWAY

lery is decorated with enamel paint and Swarovski crystals.

Hallmarking Convention Capital Oslo Official language Norwegian Currency Norwegian krone (NOK); 1 EUR – 8.23 NOK Time zone CET (UTC+1) – Summer (DST) CEST (UTC+2) Area 385 252 km2 Population (2014) 5 109 059 Government Unitary parliamentary constitutional monarchy King King Harald V Prime Minister Erna Solberg GDP (PPP) Per capita (2013) 100 818 EUR Ethnic groups 86.2% Norwegians 13.8% others Largest cities NORWAY Oslo 876 391 Bergen 257 752 Sweden Stavanger/Sandnes 189 828

Sometimes we also use acrylic stones, glass and acrylic beads, semi precious stones and real freshwater pearls.

Because of Birgit and Franz travel experiences and special history together, A&C has always lived by the rules of Ethical Trade and our jewellery design will always be influenced by the colourful diversity the world has to offer.

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39

SWEDISH JEWELLERY REPORT

NOBEL Jewellery Prize

By Sanna SVEDESTEDT & Karin Roy ANDERSSON Diagonal info@diagonalartprojects.com www.diagonalartprojects.com The Nobel Jewellery Prize was introduced in 2010 by Diagonal. Since then the prize has been awarded annually to intelligent, creative and innovative jewellers. Here are the winners of 2014:

CHEMISTRY This year the Chemistry Nobel Prize was given to Eric Betzig, Stefan Hell and William Moerner for their research on super high resolution microscopy, which with high precision makes it possible to see nano scale details, for example in virus and bacteria.

We will award the 2014 Nobel Jewellery Prize in Chemistry to Carina Chitsaz-Shoshtary. Chitsaz-Shoshtary brings out details that have been covered in layers of graffiti paint. She reveals treasures and put them together creating new shapes that gives unexpected synergy effects.

Carina CHITSAZ-SHOSHTARY “Medulla 3″, necklace, 2014.

Cactus, graffiti, silver. Photo: Laurens BURRO

Nhat-Vu DANG, Blooming Rose / Brooch, 2014.

Rigid Foam, Lacquer, Paint, Glue, PVC, Plexiglass, Remanium Steel.

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40

MEDICINE

The 2014 Nobel Prize in physics acknowledge an inven-

John O’Keefe, May-Britt Moser and Edvard Moser got

tion that has revolutionized the modern technology. Isamu

the Nobel Prize in medicine for their discoveries on how

Akasaki, Hiroshi Amano and Shuji Nakamura gets the prize

our sense of direction and our memory works.

for their energy-saving and bright diodes. In other words

We will give the Nobel Jewellery Prize in Medicine to

– it was all about light and energy this year, and we fol-

Amy Tavrn. Her jewellery work captures memories. Pro-

low the same line when we give the 2014 Nobel Jewellery

cessed and transformed they are reinterpreted by the

Prize in Physics to Nhat-Vu Dang. Nhat-Vu Dang has been

viewer and become platforms for discussions and new

experimenting with light and colour, inspired by plants’

ideas. The installation “Departing Ship” paints a melan-

way of using sun rays, adjusting their position in order to

cholic and beautiful picture of Alzheimer’s disease. A help

get the most of the valuable sun energy. His work puts

to ease and to process the sickness of a loved one.

focus on how to find new ways to use nature’s techniques Amy TAVERN, Departing Ship, 2014.

68 Navy pea coat buttons, safety pins. Photo: Hank DREW

for sustainable development.

Tarja TUUPANEN, necklace 2014.

Ready-made marble tableware, velour sticker, steelwire, brass.

Photo: Lassi RINNO

LITERATURE Patrick Modiano from France got the Nobel Prize in literature. With the motivation “For the art of memory with which he has evoked the most ungraspable human destinies and uncovered the life-world of the occupation”.

ECONOMY

We would like to honour the Finnish artist Tarja Tuupanen with the 2014 Nobel Jewellery Prize in literature.

The 2014 Prize in Economic Sciences in Memory of

Tuupanen is a master of stones. Out of agate, granite, mar-

Alfred Nobel was given to Jean Tirole for his analysis of

ble and quartz she brings out shapes that reveals the raw

market power, a research providing tools to discover and

soul of the stone and tells its history.

control the influence of too dominant actors.

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41

SWEDISH JEWELLERY REPORT

PHYSICS

SWEDISH JEWELLERY REPORT

JENNY, 2006. “The meaning of the necklace is love, that I hold the power to find love.“ Photo by Mah RANA

PEACE The Nobel Peace Prize was given to Malala Yousafzai and Kailash Satyarthi for their brave and important work against oppression of children and for young people’s right to education.

Education leads to understanding and knowledge. It makes it possible for more people to take part in a democratic discussion and it provides tools to prevent conflicts.

We will award the Nobel Jewellery Peace Prize 2014 to Mah Rana for the project Meanings and Attachments which offers a platform for discussions about jewellery as a part of our lives. A platform where people can participate regardless age, sex, cultural background or “CJexperience”.

We would like TO

THANK ALL OF YOU JEWELLERY PRIZE WINNERS FOR YOUR INSPIRING WORK.

You definitely deserve a banquette and a fat prize check – we hope that day soon will come!

Current OBSESSION #3 The Fake Issue.

Cover image by Lonneke van der Palen

We give the Nobel Jewellery Prize 2014 in economy to Current Obsession. This magazine spread the rich and wonderful world of contemporary jewellery to places where it has not been seen before, breaking up the monopoly of the CJ-sphere.

www.balticjewellerynews.com

42

SWEDISH JEWELLERY REPORT

Precious Fair Catalogue to the Baltic countries Press Release by PRECIOUS Press Office

P

recious – Stockholm Nordic Watch & Jewellery Fair

Dates: 4–6 September, 2015

has grown to become the largest in the industry.

Exhibition: Precious – Stockholm Nordic Watch &

Producers and buyers from all Nordic countries will

Jewellery Fair

gather 4–6 September this year to make contacts and do

Contact: Åsa Axelson, Project Manager,

business. The interest from the Baltic countries has grown

phone: +46 73 925 66 48,

stronger. Therefore, the Precious Fair Catalogue will also

email: asa.axelson@preciousfair.se

be distributed in Estonia, Latvia and Lithuania in addition

Web: www.preciousfair.se/en

to the Nordic countries.

– It’s very satisfying to see the increasing interest from the Baltic countries, says Åsa Axelson, Project Manager for Precious. They have a long tradition of jewellery design and manufacturing and we are very curious about our eastern neighbours.

KINGDOM OF SWEDEN

Great tips for your visit at Precious – Stockholm Nordic

EU, Hallmarking Convention Capital Stockholm Official language Swedish Currency Swedish krona (SEK); 1 EUR – 9.16 SEK Time zone CET (UTC+1) CEST (UTC+2) Summer (DST) Area – 449 964 km2 Population (2013) 9 658 301 Government Constitutional monarchy, Unitary parliamentary representative democracy Monarch King Carl XVI Gustaf SWEDEN Prime Minister Stefan Lofven GDP (PPP) Per capita (2013) 30 502.96 EUR Ethnic groups 80% Swedish, 20 % others Largest cities Stockholm 1 253 309, Goteborg 515 252, Malmoe 261 548 Denmark

Watch & Jewellery Fair: • Browse the exhibitor list before arriving the fair • Book meetings with the exhibitors you want meet • Maximize your mingling opportunities by booking tickets for the Precious Gala Dinner, the big Saturday night party at Grand Hôtel • Talk to as many people as you can at the fair. Both exhibitors and visitors can turn out to be valuable contacts • Stay an extra day in Stockholm and experience the beauty and sights of the city: the ABBA museum, the Old Town, and Fotografiska – an exhibition hall by the water for contemporary photography

www.balticjewellerynews.com

44

FINNISH JEWELLERY REPORT

KORU5 – INTERNATIONAL JEWELLERY EVENT IN FINLAND AUTUMN 2015 Report by FINNISH JEWELLERY ART ASSOCIATION KORU5

anonymously by three-member jury. Members of the jury

KORU5 is a international contemporary jewellery trien-

are jewellery artist Helena Lehtinen, Art, Design & Con-

nal organized in Finland now for the fifth time. The event

temporary Craft – Curator & Consultant Katarina Siltavuori

consists of ewellery art exhibitions, three workshops and

and Doctor of Fine Arts, researcher and visual artist Jyrki

a two day seminar. The main purpose is to present widely

Siukonen.

international contemporary jewellery and bring together

WORKSHOPS

the artists, lecturers, researchers and people with interest in contemporary jewellery to take part in exhibition, semi-

Three workshops for professional artists and students of

nar and workshops. The start of the event will take place

jewellery art and related fields will take place at Saimaa Uni-

in Imatra, Finland autumn 2015.

versity of Applied Sciences, Imatra Finland between 4th and 6th of august 2015. Workshop leaders are Terhi Tolvanen

EXHIBITION

(FI/FR), Monika Brugger (FR), Edgar Mosa (PT/USA). On-line

The first KORU5 exhibition opens in Imatra Art Muse-

registration for the workshops opens soon at www.koru5.fi

um on August 2015. The exhibition will tour to Vaasa Art Hall in the end of the year 2015 and after that the exhibi-

SEMINAR

tion will travel to Kuopio Art Museum in 2016. There are

KORU5 seminar is open for the public and it will be

51 artists from 21 country selected to participate KORU5

placed in Saimaa University of Applied Sciences, Imatra

exhibition. The selection for the exhibition was made

between 7th and 8th of august 2015. Two day seminar will

Workshop results from KORU4 -event

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46

FINNISH JEWELLERY REPORT Photo by Julia MANSIKKA

Cameo -workshop from KORU2 Exhibition view from Imatra art museum during KORU3

include lectures from the workshops leaders and selected artists of KORU5 exhibition. There will be some research

Lappeenranta in 2005. The association aims to promote

based and philosophical discourse too. The discussion in

contemporary jewellery in Finland and to improve its rec-

seminar will be about making and thinking of jewellery art

ognition as an art and design form. Another goal of the

in a broad sense. Information about speakers and registra-

association is to increase awareness about Finnish jewel-

tion for the seminar will be announced at KORU5 webpage.

lery internationally. As means towards those ends, the association organizes exhibitions, presentations and dis-

JEWELLERY ART ASSOCIATION

cussion panels, and distributes information about events.

KORU5 event is organized by Finnish Jewellery Art

At the same time with KORU5 event in 2015 Finnish Jewel-

Association. The jewellery art association was founded in

lery Art Association celebrates its ten year existence.

For more information visit › www.koru5.fi

EXHIBITIONS 7.8–12.9.2015 Imatra Art Museum, Finland 3.10–29.11.2015 Vaasa Art Hall, Finland 2016 Kuopio Art Museum, Finland

REPUBLIC OF FINLAND

WORKSHOPS

EU, Hallmarking Convention Capital Helsinki Official language(s) Finnish, Swedish Currency Euro (EUR) Time zone EET (UTC+2) – Summer (DST) EEST (UTC+3) Area – 338 424 km2 Population (2013) 5 439 407 Government Parliamentary republic President Sauli Niinisto Prime minister Alexander Stubb FINLAND GDP (PPP) Per capita (2013) 33 206 EUR Ethnic groups 93.4% Finn 6.6% others Largest cities Helsinki 596 233 Estonia Espoo 252 730 Tampere 215 315

4.–6.8.2015 Faculty of Fine Arts, Saimaa University of Applied Sciences, Imatra, Finland Edgar MOSA: Creative Patriotisms Monika BRUGGER: Heimat Terhi TOLVANEN: Stone Rocks Registration for the workshops opens soon at www.koru5.fi

SEMINAR 7.–8.8.2015 Saimaa University of Applied Sciences, the auditorium of Linnala campus in Imatra, Finland Registration for the seminar opens soon at www.koru5.fi

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47

ESTONIAN JEWELLERY REPORT

KADRI MÄLK Love Me Or Leave Me Or Let Me Be Lonely Tallinn, Estonia, where I had the pleasure of interviewing the renowned Estonian jeweler Kadri MÄLK. As the head of the metals department in the Estonian Academy of Arts, she shines a spotlight on younger Estonian jewelers. She has given rise to a generation whose work is strong, individual, and definitely Estonian. Mälk’s work is dark, poetic, and wholly of her own voice. Utilizing such traditional jewelry materials as gold, silver, gemstones, and jet, she creates a recipe whose melancholy fragrances permeate through all her work.

Interview by Aaron PATRICK DECKER

T

allinn, Estonia, where I had the pleasure of

my studies in London in 1993–94 and receive the highest

interviewing the renowned Estonian jeweler Kadri

degree one could get in gemological studies. During that

Mälk. As the head of the metals department

time in Estonia, there was no one in the field of gemology.

in the Estonian Academy of Arts, she shines a spotlight

It’s a small field in general, but in Estonia, no one had this

on younger Estonian jewelers. She has given rise to a

sort of certification. But then my professor, Kuldkepp, fell

generation whose work is strong, individual, and definitely

ill and couldn’t return to the department anymore. Until

Estonian. Mälk’s work is dark, poetic, and wholly of her

this point I had worked alone. Leading a department is not

own voice. Utilizing such traditional jewelry materials as

just about being an ideological leader, there are other con-

gold, silver, gemstones, and jet, she creates a recipe whose

cerns about finances, and finding a team that works. You

melancholy fragrances permeate through all her work.

have to find people who fit together. I had no experience

Aaron Patrick Decker: How did you come to

in this work so I was very afraid of the proposal to take the

jewelry?

department. And especially since I was offered the gemo-

Kadri Mälk: Initially I studied painting for four years

logical certification, which was seductive.

and really enjoyed it. Before that, I worked in a publishing

Simultaneously, I got a chance to work in Germany. I

house. After studying painting, I suddenly felt that maybe

was young, bold, and at that time ready to jump. I applied

it wasn’t for me, maybe I needed something more intimate.

to Bernd Munsteiner’s studio. He rejected me at first, say-

After that I went to the Academy to study jewelry. I was

ing he had too much work to also teach an apprentice.

either 28 or 29 when I graduated. I felt somehow that I was

Somehow he changed his mind and decided to bring me

late, an autumn flower. I remained a freelance artist and

in. They were intrigued by Estonia, the wild northern

was on my own for about nine years; meanwhile I was invit-

forest, so they said okay. He was concerned about my age

ed to teach. Initially it was just a small workload, like once

and the time allotted; to learn stone cutting and faceting

a week. I enjoyed staying in my atelier and working on my

requires a large amount of time. I went in there not being

own schedule and freedom. I liked it so much, no due dates

able to speak German, and they had a certain dialect. I

and a kind of wild life, a lifestyle I still really appreciate.

had some stone-cutting experience from St. Petersburg,

After graduation I began some studies in stonework.

but not at the level at which his workshop operated. It was

First in St. Petersburg in a stone-cutting factory, a huge

very generous of him to take me.

factory that received quite high-quality raw materials from

We began at 7 a.m. and the first break was at 10:30

Siberia. Then I studied gemology in Finland at the Lahti

for some coffee. It was very tight and regimented. Fun-

Design Institute for two years. I was offered to prolong

nily, during lunch they turned off the power in the shop; I

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48

allowed. He didn’t believe in the beginning that I could learn facet cutting, but at the end he was happy with where I got. I remember having a notebook and just trying to write down everything during lunchtime. I wouldn’t eat. I’d just write what the workers were saying. The old knowledge. It was my passion, stones.

Do you think becoming a professor so early shaped you as an artist and continues to shape you?

Kadri Mälk: I was a baby professor. I was elected when I was 37. I had already been a renowned artist for some time, but as an educator, administrator, or team member, I had no experience. Looking back, I realize now the trust from admin and colleagues when I took over the department. My creative past supported me and proved to them I could survive in the school. Just recently somebody outside of the academy, and artists, came to me and said, “Now, Kadri, I realize you have done it well…” In the beginning, others were hesitant because I was seemingly

unsuitable for the job. The highest hesitations came from me. I was unsure if I could rise to the occasion. And when the women came, 15 years later, it was some confirmation.

I just liked to make my pieces. And it’s so funny, I still go about my work in a similar way. Nowadays students

To share the

are much more oriented by a schedule and thinking about

UNSHARABLE

making work for exhibition. Deadlines. My satisfaction came from my pieces, from the process. I liked how they came to me, how they happened. When I was in school, learning about the art field was not included. The professor tried to keep this off us, all these associations, how this works, etc. I remember asking her what happens when I graduate. She didn’t tell me anything about the real life of artists. It was all about the work. It was a conscious decision to keep the art world away from us.

Do you think your work changed during this period?

Kadri Mälk: No, not because of the Academy. The majority of my time went into the Academy, but this didn’t

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49

ESTONIAN JEWELLERY REPORT

thought I could work more during this time, but it was not

ESTONIAN JEWELLERY REPORT

affect my work. In the first years, we gave assignments to

like a seed crystal for your next destination. I am not really

students in the form of certain themes. Later on, especially

analytical like most. I am interested mostly in my uncon-

at the MA level, where the study is more conceptual, they

scious choices, what I like and what triggers me.

If someone were to ask about your work, how

must meet their choices themselves to reinforce their

would you describe it to them?

spiritual identities.

Kadri Mälk: Look at the originals. You should look at

Someone asked me, “What do you like best about teaching?” I feel lucky that I have the possibility to notice

the original pieces and see for yourself.

Do you think that is an important idea, to see

and follow how personalities develop and begin to blos-

things in person?

som; how new talented personalities emerge in a creative surrounding; and how they act and react. And how pas-

Kadri Mälk: Yes. We are so much in the age of repro-

sionate they may be in their work! It’s the achievement of

duction. We see the screen or the page with the picture.

every member of our staff.

We don’t look at the original anymore, we don’t feel the

Not much changed about me, either. Of course I had to

tactility of the pieces or taste the iron. It is very harmful to

modify my talking towards topics, concentrate, and learn

humankind to go about it in this manner. Go to the origi-

to convey or see the methods that worked best, but at the

nals. Otherwise it is so meta-meta, you don’t feel, you don’t

core I didn’t change. It’s very different to be just a teacher

know the scale, the details, or the material from the copies.

rather than the department leader. You are responsible for

What are some of the things that inspire you?

all that happens. The biggest difference is that the academy

Kadri Mälk: I don’t know what inspiration is exactly.

and the students are number one, followed by your work

Sometimes things are more intense and sometimes less

and your family. The academy and the students are number

intense. Sometimes I feel that I can capture things, forms,

one. They can call me at any time if they need. I feel better

colors, something in the air, and sometimes I feel like sand

in this. They know that they can come, they are not lost.

is running through my fingers. Consciously I cannot, but it

What are your impressions of younger jewelers

comes more from my subconscious. There’s some differ-

now coming into the field, at large and in Estonia?

entiation between mental and physical subconscious. One

Kadri Mälk: (long pause) It is very hard to generalize,

is staying here (Mälk points to her head) and one is here

even here the local scene is quite diverse. You can see more

(she points to her stomach), the first is mental and then the

design-oriented work, more personal work. I try to encour-

second is more gut, subconscious. The feelings are very

age these people who are afraid of having somehow veiled,

different. Or maybe the frequencies are different. I like life

personal, or exceptional ways of expressing. If they com-

in all its expressions, that’s my source.

pare themselves to what is happening in different places

In talking about those two polar ways-analytical

with people their age, they begin unconsciously to bring

and emotional-in your work, do you bring them to-

other aesthetics into their own work. I want to encourage

gether, is there one that’s more important to you?

Kadri Mälk: Usually it’s subconscious, these decisions

people who are different, who are slightly insecure.

Francis Bacon said, if you are going to decide to be an

you make. They are made before they are at your conscious

artist, you have got to decide that you are not going to be

level. You made the decisions in a big fog. Just as in crystal-

afraid to make a fool of yourself. Making art is so simple-all

lization, they come into being. And when they are there, it

you have to do is to wait quietly, staring at a blank wall until

is your choice to call them either consciously made or born

the drops of blood appear on your forehead. Be aware that

out of the sky.

Looking at your work, there is a quality of instanta-

criticism always comes along with creative work. If you can’t

neous moment; going deeper, you find

handle it, you have to quit.

How frequently and easily success

more and more. The work is quite strik-

transforms into depression! You can

ing and emotionally charged. Seems

avoid it by leaving some loose threads

very palpable, like it has a heartbeat.

in your work, some unresolved part that

There is also a melancholy quality to

carries you forward in your new work.

many of your pieces. Is that a conscious

What you need to know in your next

decision or a more subconscious one?

Kadri Mälk: A tiger cannot avoid his

piece is silently present in your last. You

stripes! (She laughs.)

can find it while looking in patience. It’s

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50

animalism was powerful and important for me

Kadri Mälk: I am very shy describing my

in these works. But you aren’t going to retell

work. I am afraid I cannot reach the truth

the story. If you put it into a story, it’s banal.

Can you talk more about the jet in

through verbalization.

There is this quality of Estonian jewel-

your work?

ers, not a reluctance, but an ability to keep

Kadri Mälk: When I carve it, like timber or

the integrity of the work. It’s hard to describe the

wood, it has nerves like a human body. The stones have struc-

work prescriptively in its conceptual and formal func-

ture, they direct you. They tell you where to go. You should

tions, often it acts like poetry, it speaks with power

go there and you shouldn’t make the wrong decision. There is

but is not completely resolute. What is your opinion

a negotiation with the stone when I cut it. Jet is mute, silen-

of this attitude?

cium. Only a big dust is coming. Your lungs are filled with

Kadri Mälk: When I think of my jewelry, it’s easier

jet powder. Like stones are directing you in advance, there

to describe it. “It’s blue, violet, black, and purple. There

are inclusions, by heat they will crack more. Jet is complete-

is fog, there are shades of magenta.” You can be precise

ly mute. This is what fascinates me. It’s not much used in

without being clear. And unclear may also be precise. It’s

jewelry anymore. I lack the habit and custom and will to

very much an oxymoron.

interpret my works after they have been completed. The

Being precise but unclear, can you talk more

work either tells you something or it doesn’t. Once you

about this notion?

have completed it, then keep quiet. The work must know

Kadri Mälk: It’s really a sort of hologram, like a puz-

whether it radiates or not. The piece of jewelry in your

zle. As a notion and phenomenon, I think it’s possible.

mind, in your imagination, is always correct and beautiful.

It is an interesting facet of Estonian jewelry. Sort

Resistance starts when you try to convert it into material.

of irresolute.

Oh, la la! Materials are like elementary particles—charged,

Kadri Mälk: Yeah, it’s in a stage of becoming. Being

heavily charged sometimes, but indifferent. They don’t tell

on the way.

you much, you have to tell them the truth.

Yeah, it’s not negative, its more open.

You have staged events and produced a number

Kadri Mälk: Yes, an ambivalence.

of books-JUST MUST, Castle in the Air, etc.-about

Is there something that you want people to get

Estonian jewelry and jewelers. You have made the

from your work?

work coming from the Academy available to a much

Kadri Mälk: To share the unsharable. What often hap-

larger audience. Give us your thoughts about pub-

pens is that the viewer approaches in a superficial way,

lishing these books and what your intentions were

which is natural. On the foreground they see materials,

at the time you did them.

Kadri Mälk: Firstly, I love books. I love their smell and

especially if there are unusual materials.

I’ve used a lot of moleskin in my work and it’s taken a

the shade of the voice when you turn the page and then

kind of attraction or peculiarity in my work. I don’t feel a

unexpectedly see a new image… It’s both emotional and

need to explain the choices I’ve made. How it came to me,

intellectual. Since 1989 I have published twenty-some-

it was just an incident. Or a happy accident.

thing publications, some of them out-of-print already. The

When all my stuff was stolen from my atelier, I found a

first ones were really ugly ducklings, black-and-white …

coat of my grandmother’s from the war, made out of mole-

I’ve strived always to tell something different with them,

skin. I took it apart, slices of extremely thin, like silk, soft silk

it has been my passion. Indeed, they have been acting as

paper like. Then I saw these pieces. The tenderness at first,

ambassadors of Estonian jewelry in the world, although it

the sensuality of the material, and that the fur grew in only

was not intended. So many students coming from abroad

one direction. It was so thin, the fur. It had such a strong

have said the pull came from the books. Strange! Usually

character, though. I started to work with this, used it a lot,

nowadays the urge comes from the Internet.

the coat is now gone into all the pieces. I also think the ani-

To make an impression abroad is not as important as to

mal is present in the work. The mole, he’s blind, he doesn’t

make an impression in your own soul.

Thank you.

have sight but has extreme animal spirit. All this orientation in time and space. I studied how they moved, their lives, did more research. How they were trapped and caught. This

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51

ESTONIAN JEWELLERY REPORT

That’s a great analogy.

ESTONIAN JEWELLERY REPORT

THE SAFETY OF JEWELLERY is the customers concern ...

Report by METROSERT LTD, Assay Office Department

T

he library legislation on jewellery of some European Union (EU) states (including Estonia) does not offer any valuable protection to jewellery custom-

er. Within the voluntary Hallmarking system, there are no guarantees of investment, quality and health safety. The customer is responsible for his/her own health. Unfortunately awareness about non safety of jewellery comes to the customer after his/her health has been damaged.

There are visible severe allergic reactions on skin in peoples, who are sensitive to nickel. With cadmium, any immediate visible harm have not been observed, because cadmium causes severe health effects if absorbed into the body at high levels and stays in the body for a long time.

The European Nickel Directive has been enforced throughout the EU since 2000. In 2011 the EU has extended the restrictions on cadmium content in jewellery and, in 2013, restriction for lead and its compounds has been enforced.

In Estonia, there is not manufacturing of jewellery in large scale, so mostly imported products are on the marThe experts of Metrosert LTD Assay Office Department (from left to right): Gene BOITSOVA, Jelena MUHHAMEDJANOVA and Teele KANTS

ket. Partly due to competition for low cost, some suppliers import jewellery from Far East countries and India, where toxic metals are still being used in jewellery manufacturing for technical reasons. It is important that suppliers of

• On some silver items nickel is present as finishing

jewellery understand the potential risks and take all rea-

or/and inter medium layer before gold finishing.

sonable steps to ensure that their products are ‘safe’ for

• In case of low coast silver jewellery instead of gold

people (customers) health.

copper alloys with high nickel content are used for

In the AS Metrosert laboratory of Assay Office of Esto-

finishing. The nickel release from such coatings is

nia it is possible to check the content of toxic metals by

ten times higher than required limits.

X-ray analysis (XRF) as nondestructive initial screening test

• The white gold alloy with high content of nickel

before a more accurate (but destructive) analysis by AAS

is used for jewellery items inserted into pierced

method. The nickel release screen test and full release test

parts of the body. In the case if these items are not

according to standard EN 1811:2011 can be conducted,

finished with rhodium, nickel release from alloy

too. Unfortunately Estonian jewellery suppliers or retailers

commonly is not compliant with restrictions. It

are not ready to incur additional costs for this testing.

should be noticed, that such items are still supplied

Because of voluntary hallmarking system in Estonia,

from EU countries and Turkey, too.

less than 10 % of jewellery market is submitted by suppli-

• The presence of cadmium in content (2–10) % by

ers for hallmarking to Assay Office.

weight of metal in silver jewellery (including child ´s

Within this amount, our experts during the testing

jewellery) is very common for silver items from Far

detect the followings:

East countries and India.

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52

ESTONIAN JEWELLERY REPORT Customers raise concerns ABOUT

In additional, a lot of jewellery sets with composite

TOXIC METALS

lead glass corundum or lead glass fracture filled rubies and sapphires can be found in Estonian market. At the best, retailers offer them as treated gems (without any indication of the treatment method). At present there is no regulation on gems in Estonia.

The restrictions for toxic metals are not completely defined in the Estonian valid legislation on jewellery.

According to valid Precious Metal Articles Act there is only one restriction for nickel as jewellery coating: these items are not permitted in our market. Especially within the voluntary Hallmarking system, preferring to buy Hallmarked jewellery the customer think by mistake, that item meets all requirements (incl. fineness standard and health safety).

REPUBLIC OF ESTONIA

However, a Control mark on an article is not a proof itself

EU, NATO Capital Tallinn Official language Estonian Currency Euro (EUR) Time zone EET (UTC+2); Summer (DST) EEST (UTC+3) Area – 45 227 km2 Population (2014) 1 312 300 Government Parliamentary republic President Toomas Hendrik Ilves Prime Minister Taavi Roivas GDP (PPP) Per capita (2013) 14 200 EUR ESTONIA Ethnic groups (2011) 68.7 % Estonians, 31.3 % others Largest cities Latvia Tallinn 394 024 Tartu 101 092 Lithuania Narva 66 980

for jewellery safety for health of its customer.

Jewellery market supervision is exercised by the Customer Protection Board in Estonia. During the revisions in the jewellery stores it is possible only to check the presence of the compulsory marks on jewellery items. To test an alloy for precious metal content (standard of fineness) or for presence of toxic metals, jewellery item must be selected for expertise. Within the last two years (2013–2014) only 21 items were selected for expertise, from these only two items were in compliance with the requirements of valid legislation.

Today we are looking forward to revise legislation on jewellery according to REACH regulation in Estonia.

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53

LATVIAN JEWELLERY REPORT

Andris LAUDERS Necklace: Thing That Never End – The Sun Amber, sterling silver, 18 kt gold, leather

AMBER:

Like You've Never Seen Before

In

Press Release by PUTTI ART GALLERY connection with Latvia holding the Presidency

be intervened by changing it, for it not to be destroyed.

of the Council of the European Union in the first

Every amber piece is unique in its colour, form and tex-

half of 2015, Art gallery Putti proudly presents

ture – therefore it is very important to preserve its natural

the exhibition of Latvian contemporary jewellery artists

beauty by adjusting the design of the jewellery piece to the

”Amber – like you`ve never seen before” which will be

amber not adjusting the amber to the design.

on display in the Goldsmiths` Centre in London, United

The scenography elements in the exhibition are done by

Kingdom from May 25, 2015 until July 5 , 2015.

internationally acclaimed fashion brand “MAREUNROL`S”

th

Exhibition participants are Latvian contemporary jew-

(Mārīte Mastiņa and Rolands Pēterkops), taking in mind

ellery artists Andris Lauders, Guntis Lauders, Jānis Vilks,

the ancient nature of the amber and its historical mean-

Māris Auniņš, Māris Šustiņš and Valdis Brože.

Conversations with amber – this is what the exhibition is all about. In some way jewellery artist`s dialog with amber is a battle of two

Guntis LAUDERS

giants, where outstanding sense of the mate-

Brooches: Orchestra Amber, sterling silver, mammoth bone, coconut shell, smoky topaz, sapphires

rial and intellectual investment is needed. It is still upon discussion how much amber should

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54

Brooch: Orchestra Amber, sterling silver, mammoth bone, coconut shell, smoky topaz, sapphires

Māris AUNIŅŠ Brooch: Magic Structures Sterling silver, amber

ing. They combined it with the resident of our planet since before Christianity, the neighbour of dinosaurs – the ant.

In the exhibition one can see how the amber road crosses the roads of ants, which has actually happened – the evidence is seen in the amber pieces which are found with encapsulated ants. Amber has been through a lot and it is a powerful conversation companion, who asks for a partner of the same intelligence – the jewellery artist, the jewellery piece wearer and also the viewing audience.

In this exhibition we come from a conversation about the amber to a conversation about ourselves in 21st century and about marks that we will leave for the upcoming generations. The cultural experience of the amber and its existence in the global space is as much as inseparable and interrelated as the mark that the Universe has left in each amber piece.

REPUBLIC OF LATVIA EU, NATO, Hallmarking Convention Capital Riga Official language Latvian Currency Euro (EUR) Time zone EET (UTC+2) – Summer (DST) EEST (UTC+3) Area – 64 589 km2 Population (2014) 2 146 800 Government Parliamentary republic President Andris Berziņs Prime Minister Laimdota Straujuma GDP (PPP) Per capita (2014) 18 406 EUR Estonia Ethnic groups (2011) 62.1% Latvians, 37.9 % others Largest cities LATVIA Riga 713 016 Daugavpils 104 857 Belarus Lithuania Liepaja 84 747

Māris ŠUSTIŅŠ Brooch: Adornment Needle-pin Amber, silver niello, gilding, garnet

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55

LATVIAN JEWELLERY REPORT

Guntis LAUDERS

LITHUANIAN JEWELLERY REPORT

PARTICIPANTS’ EXPECTATIONS FOR THE MARKET AT “AMBER TRIP” EXHIBITION

S

Virginija ZYGIENE’S interview with Giedrius GUNTORIUS

Giedrius GUNTORIUS, the director of “Amber Trip”

This year, the biggest international jewellery exhibition in the Baltic States, “Amber Trip 2015”, can boast about both the high number of attendees and an expanded exhibition area. Giedrius GUNTORIUS, the director of “Amber Trip”, the company that organises the exhibition, shares his thoughts on the event and trends in jewellery and amber markets.

It is the 12th year of international Baltic jewellery

(2009), when our maximum area had been reached. This

exhibition “Amber Trip”, this time organised in Vil-

accomplishment brings us great joy since an increase in

nius. Tell us more about this exhibition.

exhibition area shows the Baltic jewellery market has been

Although this sole biggest international jewellery exhi-

recovering.

bition in the Baltic States is held for the 12th time, we,

The exhibition will receive approximately 150 attend-

“Amber Trip” organisers, approach each exhibition as if

ees from Lithuania, Latvia, Estonia, Poland, Turkey, Italy,

it was its first time and make full effort throughout the

the Czech Republic, Russia, Germany and Georgia, and

whole year.

will have more attendees than before. We get VIP buyers

The year that passes between “Amber Trip” exhibitions

coming from all around the world, for instance, the US,

brings serious changes to the jewellery and amber markets.

Japan or a faraway corner of the Russian Federation – the

These changes dictate what we should do. I emphasise

Kamchatka peninsula. Around 40 % of “Amber Trip” exhi-

that we, as the organisers of this exhibition, have not and

bition area is taken by jewellery, and the remaining 60 %

will not claim a right to form future trends. “Amber Trip”

by amber. We tend to believe that the purchasing power

always observes what the present situation dictates, what

for jewellery items in the Baltic region has increased.

our participants and buyers want, and we always take into

As it happens every year, the exhibition will present the

consideration changes taking place in the market and the

newest technology, modern equipment. The participants

opinions that our participants express. Hence, what we cre-

will be able to see the most recent items of professional jew-

ate and find in the exhibition is a joint project made possible

ellers, to buy some exclusive one-of-a-kind artefacts. They

by all jewellery industry representatives. I personally thank

will also have an exclusive opportunity to explore Perkūnas’s

everyone for their contribution to organising “Amber Trip”.

stone. It is the biggest amber stone – it weighs 3,820 grams

What is different about “Amber Trip” 2015?

– ever to be taken from the Baltic Sea in Lithuania. This

This year’s “Amber Trip” exhibition has finally grown,

unique amber stone, all covered in sea shells and battered

area-wise, to the size it was before the financial crisis

by waves, has remained in one piece and has travelled the

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56

There have been, however, some changes in the market

this stone is officially recognised as the biggest amber stone

and already at “Amber Trip” of 2014 discussions sparked

in Lithuania, and is bigger than the famous Sun Stone that

over the lack of amber that was felt after the Kaliningrad

can be seen at the Palanga Amber Museum.

Amber Combine stopped its amber stock export. And yet,

Amber shop “Carskoje Selo” from Saint Petersburg

after amber mining was begun in Poland and Ukraine, the

will present 26 copies of different collections: fragments

amber deficit issue was completely solved and no company

of the Amber Chamber, scientific reconstructions of lost

had to close because of this situation.

Berlin and Konigsberg‘s collections, religious icons made

Therefore, we see different trends in the market. Once

of amber, and artefacts of amber masters.

the problems with amber stock acquisition were resolved,

During the exhibition period, an international art com-

buyers from Asia slowed down their purchases, and the

petition, “Dialogue of Oppositions”, will take place, where

price of amber has dropped by 30 % as compared to its

jewellers from Lithuania and abroad will present their works.

price during the exhibition last year. At the same time,

What are the current trends in the market of jew-

there is a growing trend for Arab states to show interest

ellery and amber?

in amber, it is becoming more interesting in the US and

I must note first that, for the past two years, the

Europe.

“Amber Trip” exhibition and its participants were greatly

This is why “Amber Trip” is so important to its exhibi-

helped by the amber stone market in China, since it would

tors: it will reveal the market trends of 2015. The expecta-

“suck in” all that representatives of amber industry would

tions of the exhibitors of our exhibition will first travel to

produce. The exhibition was well attended by buyers from

“Amberif” exhibition in Poland, and later to other coun-

China and other Asia countries, which truly delighted us.

tries.

“AMBER TRIP” is important to its exhibitors: IT WILL REVEAL THE MARKET TRENDS OF 2015

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57

LITHUANIAN JEWELLERY REPORT

world for a while, including places like Kuwait. Nowadays,

LITHUANIAN JEWELLERY REPORT

PROMOTION OF LITHUANIAN JEWELLERY BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT S CIENCE E CONOMY C OHESIO N

EUROPEAN UNIO N

Creating the Future of Lithuania

Report by Virginija ZYGIENE

D

evyni Gintarai, joint-stock company, and 42 other Lithuanian jewellery

business enterprises have received the European Regional Development Fund support.

Participation in the 12th International Baltic Jewellery Show “Amber Trip 2015” was compensated some costs. A smaller group of 6 companies (Amber Trip, Amber Tree, Jonas Damzen’s personal enterprise, Ambero, Romualda Venskel and Ambersmile) are also participating in Amberif on March 25–28. We invite you to visit their stands.

Public institution Enterprise Lithuania (Versli Lietuva) under the Ministry of Economy of the Republic of Lithuania provided partial funding to the companies participating in the international shows, where export potential of the company groups (hereinafter IGEI) as well as expansion of business relations is going to be presented.

The group of Lithuanian jewellery companies took advantage of this opportunity. In the 12th International Baltic Jewellery Show “Amber Trip”, it is going to present the production of Lithuanian amber and jewellery producers to its potential clients and partners.

The project aims at encouraging Lithuanian amber jewellery companies to search more actively for foreign partners. It stimulates raising international awareness of Lithuanian amber and jewellery producers by using a group initiative as well as participating in international events in Lithuania and abroad.

The European Regional Development Fund allocated funds to cover some of the total implementation costs for the project 12th International Baltic Jewellery Show “Amber Trip 2015” of Devyni gintarai, company.

The following companies participate in the project together with company Devyni gintarai: RMD Linija, Sidabrine Kameja, Astijus Jasaitis’s amber company Napoleonas, A. Kleismantas’s individual enterprise DU SAFYRAI, Saniston Baltic, Silver Amber, Amber Tree, individual enterprise Misara, Natalia Lenko, Jonas Damzen’s personal enterprise, Audrius Lukauskas, Aukso Centras, Alfredas Daulius’s individual enterprise, Martynas Kaubrys, Darius Tamasauskas, Algirdas Marcius, Ambermozaika, Dainius Gadliauskas, Marius Duda, R. Benetis’s enterprise Lasas, Vytautas Jukna, Edita Sarkuvienė, E. Dunauskas’s enterprise Pajurio Krantas, R. Balsaitis’s amber studio, D. Milius’s economic commercial enterprise, Art Vetus, A. Jukna’s studija A+L, Ambero, Filum, A. Petkevicius’s trading company, Simona Statneckyte, Angel Amber, Sergiejus Popovas, Eridana Pinikienė, Jieda, Aleksandras Rus, Ambersmile, Olga ir Olga, Amberlita, Amberhome, Romualda Venskel, Roman Gridz, Lina Amber.

IGEI’s encouragement is one of the activities of the project titled “Opportunities for Business Creation and Expansion” of Public institution Enterprise Lithuania (Versli Lietuva), intended to be funded by European Regional Development Fund.

www.balticjewellerynews.com

58

UAB DEVYNI GINTARAI DEBRECENO 70–10 KLAIPEDA LT-94153 LITHUANIA

owner EDVARDAS ZUMBRICKAS TEL. +370 39838245 FAX +370 46360652

www.amber999.com

UAB “ART VETUS”

Poilsio str. 7, LT-93200, Klaipeda, Lithuania

Amber-Bernstein Mob. +37068631576 uab.artvetus@gmail.com www.ambertrade.eu

LITHUANIAN JEWELLERY REPORT

Director of the Lithuanian Geological Survey Jonas SATKUNAS

AMBER WILL BE MINED IN LITHUANIA Prospecting and extraction works of amber deposits may begin later this year in Lithuania, in the Curonian Lagoon near JuodkrantÄ—. Director of the Lithuanian Geological Survey Jonas Satkunas speaks about the need to mine amber, available amber resources in Lithuania and possible extraction quotas.

Virginija ZYGIENE’S interview with Jonas SATKUNAS Why is there a need to mine amber in Lithuania?

Amber business representatives in Lithuania are no longer provided with amber due to an embargo of amber supply from Kaliningrad. However, business companies are showing interest in the prospecting and mining of amber deposits: we have received applications from 6 companies in mid-February this year. According to the law on SubThe amounts of mined amber

strata, if there are applications under which business representatives aim to prospect and extract amber resources, the Lithuanian Geological Survey must organize a tender.

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74

Of course there could be more applications if the terms and conditions of the tender appear attractive.

LITHUANIA

When will the tender for the prospecting and extraction of amber deposits be announced? And when

Palanga

will the amber mining works actually begin?

BALTIC SEA

Tender regulations are approved by the Minister of Environment. After the approval, a tender commission will

Minij

a

KLAIPĖDA

be formed which will prepare the terms and conditions of CU RO NIA N SPIT

the tender. According to the tender regulations, which are still only a draft and have not yet been approved (the interview took place in February – author's note), the Lithuanian Geological Survey is the organizer of the tender.

It is likely that the tender will be announced as early

Ventė

as this spring, however, due to various circumstances, the

Nida

winner of the tender may be announced only in autumn.

Priekulė

Šilutė Rusnė

What else needs to be done to clear the path for the prospecting and mining of amber?

CURONIAN LAGOON

So far, the prospecting of Lithuanian amber deposits is not yet finished, therefore these works need to be complete. Amber prospecting works were carried out in

Nem

una

s

RUSSIA Curonian Lagoon

1992–1994. These data are reliable, however at least 10 more boreholes need to be drilled in order to prospect all the amber reserves.

Thus we need to make sure that the damage to the envi-

Thus, the winner of the tender for the prospecting

ronment is minimized. If permission to mine amber in this

and extraction of amber deposits will have to perform

area is granted after the environmental impact assessment

prospecting at his own expense and that is an advantage,

is performed, the winner companies of the tender will

because certain amount of amber will be obtained during

automatically receive a second authorization to mine it.

prospecting which can be put on the market and possibly

Amber tax rate will also have to be set, because a cer-

cover the costs of prospecting. And eventually, the winner

tain tax must be paid to the state budget for the extracted

of the tender will be able to see the quality of the raw

natural resources. The current rate is about 29 Euros for a

material, i.e. amber, as he will be able to examine it further.

kilogram of extracted amber.

How much amber is allowed to be mined per year?

Of course, we will try to make sure that the mined amber is not quickly exported from the country as raw

Annual quotas have to be approved by the commission

material, instead we want it to be exported from Lithuania

of the tender. In my personal opinion, the annual amber

as a well-made piece of jewellery and this would be ben-

mining quota could reach no more than 30 tonnes per

eficial to everyone. Therefore annual amber mining quotas

year, thus, there would be enough amber in the amber

should be set in the terms and conditions of the tender.

deposit of Juodkrantė for 4 or 5 years. If receiving a license

After the prospecting, when available amber reserves

for amber mining in other areas as well, then it would be

are approved, an environmental impact assessment will

possible to mine amber for about 10–15 years.

What are the raw amber resources in Lithuania?

also be carried out. We will have an answer whether amber mining will be allowed in this location in terms of

According to the data of prospecting works carried out

the environment, because amber deposits are also situated

in 1994–1995 near Juodkrantė, there is 112 tons of amber

in the Curonian Spit National Park, the biosphere polygon,

at the bottom of the Curonian Lagoon. However, after

in the fish migration and spawning area, as well as places

a detailed prospect, this number may slightly decrease.

where archaeological artefacts were discovered (in the XIX

There are several other prognostic areas nearby there-

century, an article and amulet collection from the stone

fore amber reserves can reach a total amount of about

age, as well as the so-called amber treasure were found

230 tons. However, it should be noted that amber can be

near Juodkrantė which became famous all over the world).

found across the whole Curonian Lagoon.

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75

LITHUANIAN JEWELLERY REPORT

L AT V I A

LITHUANIAN JEWELLERY REPORT

HISTORY OF AMBER MINING IN LITHUANIA • Constant amber mining works began on 1 May 1862.

The company was established in the northern part of Juodkrantė, which is now known as Amber Bay. • An amber miners' village was established on the cost of the Bay, also called the "digger colony" or "California"

Palvininkai amber quarry in Kaliningrad Region (Russian: Yantarnoe)

with a few small buildings for workers. 500–600 people were mining amber in three shifts until the freezing of the Lagoon.

• Every day after work, workers were inspected for stolen

What is the quality of amber in the available de-

amber. Theft of amber could have resulted in the loss of

posits?

a well-paid job. With the expansion of amber extraction,

The amber is fine in the deposit of Juodkrantė. It is mostly up to 20 mm in diameter, but there is also 10% of

the amber mining area near Juodkrantė had also con-

amber in this deposit whose fraction is larger than 40 mm

stantly expanded. Amber was mined from the bottom of

in diameter.

the Lagoon at a depth of 4–10 m, within a 2 226 m long and 230 m wide strip.

There are a lot of discussions in society on wheth-

• Amber which was mined near Juodkrantė was trans-

er it is necessary to mine amber in Lithuania.

ported for sorting to Klaipėda and Konigsberg. The

Lithuanian Geological Survey will seek to ensure that the mined amber provides many benefits to the society.

company would export part of the amber to Great

Today it is said that Lithuania is the country of amber, but

Britain and Africa – these countries liked the bright clear

we currently do not extract amber – we mined it only dur-

amber. Amber mined in Palvininkai have reached Cairo,

ing historical times, when two natural persons established

Bombay, Calcutta, Tokyo and New York.

• Large pieces of amber with a high collector's value were

a company in Klaipėda called "Stantien&Becker". This company had the right to not only deepen the fairway of

particularly expensive: they were sold for 400–1 000

the Curonian Lagoon, but also to extract amber across the

thalers. In 1864, only 17 000 kg of amber was obtained,

whole Eastern Prussia. Amber was extensively mined near

however, its extraction near Juodkrantė grew constantly

Juodkrantė for 28 years.

and, in 1868, a record was reached – 94 000 kg. During

Currently there are ongoing public discussions and

1862–1890, an average of 75 000 kg of raw amber was

public opinion on the extraction of amber will become

mined per year, and the profit reached up to 180 000

clear after the environmental impact assessment. There will

thalers.

surely be resistance from the society, as part of the society

• However, since 1880, the amounts of mined amber in

thinks that Lithuania will not be the country of amber after

the deposit of Juodkrantė have decreased, thus, on 30

amber is extracted. However, keeping amber in its depos-

November 1890, the company "Stantien&Becker" have

its is not the best solution. Amber is not very resistant to

terminated their contract for amber mining. Dredgers

weathering processes as it is affected by oxidation and

have also stopped working since 1891. In 1899, the com-

other natural processes. We should also not forget that

pany was sold to the State, and, after a year, amber min-

dredging works may be carried out in the equatoria of the

ing in Juodkrantė has ceased completely. Thus, amber

Curonian Lagoon in which case we would automatically

was extensively mined near Juodkrantė for 28 years.

lose amber. On the other hand, residents of the Curonian

Lithuanian Geological Survey, 2014

Spit have already noticed illegal production.

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76

LITHUANIAN JEWELLERY REPORT Photo byMarius ZICIUS

AMBER BROUGHT BACK THE MEMORIES OF CHILDHOOD S

Virginija ZYGIENE’S interview with Ruta JURKUNAITE-BRUOZIENE Ruta JURKUNAITE-BRUOZIENE

www.balticjewellerynews.com

77

LITHUANIAN JEWELLERY REPORT

Baltic Jewellry News spoke with a fashion designer, jeweller and lecturer at the Fashion Design Department of Vilnius College of Design Ruta Jurkunaite – Bruoziene, who was also the winner of the 5D contest, which took place in the International Baltic Jewellery Show “Amber Trip 2014”. Her designed ring “Optimist” won the contest's Grand Prix prize.

ment, where my dad's polishing machine or amber blanks were an integral part of my environment, just like a chair or a table. But amber always seemed like a fussy stone to me, just like my beloved enamel.

It can be stated that creative ideas come during travels, they are inspired by new people whom we meet, but most ideas come from silence and concentration, from something that is deep within...

Your article of jewellery – ring with a spring “Optimist" has won the Grand Prix prize in the 5D contest held in the XI International Baltic Jewellery

R

Show “Amber Trip 2014”. Did you expect such a success?

ūta says that she was intrigued by the title of the contest – 5D, and thoughts about technology and

Actually, the winning was unexpected, and I think any-

special effects went through her head. However,

one in my place would say the same. The most important

amber suddenly brought her back to her childhood years,

thing during contests is to feel the theme, and perfection

when sweets reminded her of bright polished stones. She

sometimes lies in simplicity. I was lucky in 2014, and some-

says that jewellery is still an undispelled magic to her, maybe

one else will be lucky in 2015. And it is truly a strong incen-

because she learned about it not long ago and feels like a

tive to create further, because your work is evaluated by

student who is still searching and not rushing to dig a well.

authoritative members of the commission. On the other

What is your relation with amber?

hand, the feeling is different when you receive apprecia-

My relation with amber? It was established during my

tion from the public, after all, these days it is not easy to

childhood, and now I am trying to tame it. I have gradu-

grab the interest of people and reach their hearts.

ated costume design in Vilnius Academy of Arts (VAA). My

The theme of the contest was 5D and this interested

father studied design in the (then) Institute of Art, where

me. I imagined that I would create a work of industrial

my sister also graduated painting. Thus, shape and colour-

aesthetics, but all my ideas have changed when I thought

ing have organically become an integral part of my crea-

about the delicacy and cosiness of amber while episodes

tions. Amber reminds me of childhood. Just like brass and

from my childhood ran through my head, where I would

copper, amber jewellery was still popular during the 8th

put nearly eaten sweets on my fingers like rings and admire

decade of the last millennium. So, I was born in an environ-

their clarity and sleekness.

Winning ring “Optimist" Amber, silver

www.balticjewellerynews.com

78

instant. Another important element was added to the contest ring – a spring. I once had a lot of those and all of them were from disassembled pens...

The ring that was the winner of the contest is a bearer Model Ieva Venskutonyte, photo by Greta Gedminaite

of good mood and taste, thus the name Optimist had naturally stuck to it.

You create clothing and articles of jewellery?

What are the differences and similarities when creating them?

Clothing design is inseparable from fashion trends otherwise it loses its relevance. Here you have to feel the pulse of the street, whereas in jewellery everything is slightly different. Of course, there are general trends, but I personally try to avoid them. Things like fashion and trends, which are understandable and relevant when creating clothes and accessories, become meaningless in jewellery. For me, Necklace “G Major”. Silver plated steel, brass

jewellery is more than poetry. I try to cultivate a certain artistic idea without thinking that it has to be popular

Where have you learned the art of jewellery mak-

or highly acceptable to someone. And I am not afraid to

ing?

experiment with colours, especially when creating articles with enamel technique.

I became interested in jewellery not so long ago. Jewel-

It happened naturally that I, as a creator, was raised

ler-designer Darijus Gerlikas became my first teacher. Dari-

by the works of painters therefore I picked up a lot of col-

jus is a representative of Florentine school traditions. Later,

ours from the surrounding environment. I have to admit

fate brought me to jeweller Tadas Deksnys. He shared his

that I feel truly professional when working in the field of

knowledge and experience with enamel technique and

costume design, and I'm happy that I also have something

encouraged me to work with this technique. However, I

that complements me, i.e. jewellery which is very close to

still feel like a student in jewellery, who is still searching

my body as well as my heart.

and has not yet begun to dig the well.

REPUBLIC OF LITHUANIA

Brooch “Kaukė” Enamel, cooper, silver, stones Rring “Amžiams” Silver,brass

EU, NATO, Hallmarking Convention Capital Vilnius Official language Lithuanian Currency Euro (EUR) Time zone EET (UTC+2); Summer (DST) EEST (UTC+3) Area – 65 200 km2 Population (2014) 2 919 306 Government Parliamentary republic President Dalia Grybauskaite Prime Minister Algirdas Butkevicius GDP (PPP) Per capita (2014) 12 363 EUR Ethnic groups (2011) 84.2% Lithuanians Latvia 15.8% others Largest cities (2013) LITHUANIA Vilnius 526 356 Kaunas 306 888 Klaipėda 158 541 Belarus

Brooch “Kriauklė” Enamel, silver Brooch “Sapnas” Enamel, cooper, silver

Poland

www.balticjewellerynews.com

79

LITHUANIAN JEWELLERY REPORT

Even today polished amber reminds me of caramel sweets, and its colour can have different flavours in an

WORLDWIDE JEWELLERY REPORT

Official Price for raw amber by

Kaliningrad Amber Combine March 2015 AMBER FROM RUSSIA Regular Amber Piece Size

Price/1 kg – EUR

+4; –11.5

7.58

+11,5 faction

31.46

+14 faction

52.69

+16 faction

78.66

+23 faction

130.83

+32 faction

218.04

2,5 gr. – 5 gr.

149.08

4gr. – 25gr.

191.87

50 gr. – 100 gr.

331.1

100 gr. – 200 gr.

558.71

200 gr. – 300 gr.

651.84

300 gr. – 500 gr.

724.25

* RUB/EUR exchange rate on 9th of March, 2015

www.balticjewellerynews.com

80

WORLDWIDE JEWELLERY REPORT

The Worldwide Price for Raw Amber 2015 March AMBER FROM RUSSIA Regular Amber Piece Size

Price / 1 kg – EUR

+5 faction

10

+6 faction

15

+8 faction

35

+11 faction

80

+14 faction

125

+16 faction

300

2,5 gr. – 5 gr.

400

5 gr. – 10 gr.

600

10 gr. – 20 gr.

1200

20 gr. – 50 gr.

2150

50 gr. – 100 gr.

3000

100 gr. – 200 gr.

3200

200 gr. – 300 gr.

3800

300 gr. – 500 gr

5000

FACTIONS 20–50 G RAW AMBER PRICE CHANGE 2006 FERBRUARY – 2015 MARCH 4300 3900 3500 3100 2700 2300 1900 1500 1100 700

March

2015

August

2014

March

2014 June

2014

August

March

2013

2013

August

2012

March

August

2012

2011

March

2011

August

March

2010

2010

August

March

2009

2009

August

2008

March

August

2008

2007

March

2007

August

2006

2006

March

300

www.balticjewellerynews.com If you have any questions concerning these prices, please, contact our office: Tel. / fax +370 5 212 08 23, info@balticjewellerynews.com

81

WORLDWIDE JEWELLERY REPORT

The Worldwide Price for Raw Amber 2015 March AMBER FROM POLAND Regular Amber Piece Size

Price / 1 kg – EUR

2,5 gr. – 5 gr.

450

5 gr. – 10 gr.

700

10 gr. - 20 gr.

1400

20 gr. – 50 gr.

2800

AMBER FROM UKRAINE Regular Amber Piece Size

Price / 1 kg – EUR

2,5 gr. – 5 gr.

460

4 gr. – 10 gr.

750

10 gr. - 20 gr.

1500

20 gr. – 50 gr.

3000

50 gr. – 100 gr.

3600

100 gr. – 200 gr.

4000

If you have any questions www.balticjewellerynews.com concerning these prices, please, contact our office: Tel. / fax +370 5 212 08 23, info@balticjewellerynews.com

82

WORLDWIDE JEWELLERY REPORT

The Worldwide Price for Amber

Silver 925 Jewellery 2015 March

Amber Silver 925 Jewellery

Price/gr

Handmade

1,70 EUR

Mashine made

1,40 EUR

AMBER SILVER 925 JEWELLERY PRICE CHANGE AUGUST 2010 – MARCH 2015 EUR/gr

mashine

handmade

3

2

1

0 2010 August

2011 March

mashine

2012 March

2012 August

2013 March

2013 August

2014 March

2014 August

2015 March

handmade

SILVER PRICE CHANGE 2011 MARCH – 2015 MARCH 40

34

28

22

16

10 2011

2012

2013

2014

2015

If you have any questions concerning these prices, please, contact our office: Tel. / fax +370 5 212 08 23, info@balticjewellerynews.com

GOLD PRICE CHANGE 2013–2014

EUR MN 30000 28500 27000 25500 24000 22500 21000 19500 18000 16500 15000 Q1 2013 invest@gold.org

Q2

Q3

Q4

Q1 2014

Q2

Q3

Q4

WORLDWIDE JEWELLERY REPORT

The Worldwide Gold Price

Review by WORLD GOLD COUNCIL

www.balticjewellerynews.com

88

photo from lovegold.com

WORLDWIDE JEWELLERY REPORT

GLOBAL GOLD JEWELLERY MARKET – THIRD QUARTER 2014 S

WORLDWIDE JEWELLERY REPORT

In

the third quarter, 534.2 t of gold jewellery was consumed around the globe. On the face of it, the 4 % year-on-year decline suggests a weak

market. But such comparisons are heavily influenced by the events of last year: Q3 2013 was the strongest third quarter for jewellery demand since 2008, and by a fair margin.

Longer term analysis shows a market in good health. Q3 demand was marginally stronger than the 5-year quarterly average of 527.6 t, while year-to-date volumes continue to extend the broad uptrend from the low seen in 2009 India did much of the heavy-lifting: jewellery demand there jumped to 182.9 t, almost matching Q2 2013’s Rings by Sarah SWELL, photo from lovegold.com

upsurge. India’s market is discussed in detail in the Executive summary. Demand in China was comparable with 2012. The scale of 2013’s exceptional buying continued

The ban on paying for gold jewellery by credit card instal-

to overshadow the market, dictating a 39 % year-on-year

ments continued to hang over the market, although this

decline. Demand was, however, broadly in line with both

restriction was partially repealed in October. Consumers

Q3 2012 and the 5-year quarterly average (of 148.2 t and

buying gold on credit will now be able to pay in instal-

154.9t respectively). As usual, the pattern was strikingly

ments for up to four months. This should provide some

similar in Hong Kong, where consumers from the mainland

support to Turkish jewellery demand going forward.

tend to account for most of demand.

Demand in the Middle East was 36 t – 14 % weaker

China’s jewellery market continued to normalise fol-

year-on-year. Demand for gold jewellery across the region

lowing last year’s rapid expansion. The industry consoli-

suffered from the comparison with strong demand last year.

dated further during Q3, although larger brands have been

A trend towards lower-karat and gem-set jewellery

relatively immune to the crunch. Some have managed to

encroached on fine gold volumes. However, the long term

expand. In Wuhan, for example, Chow Tai Fook is build-

picture appears to show the market building something

ing a whopping 436,000 m2, multi-billion dollar jewellery

of a base, with a series of higher lows from the trough of

park, which will house manufacturing, logistics, sales,

Q4 2011.

training and e-commerce.5

Growth in the US jewellery market – as discussed in the

Looking at consumer preferences, 18-karat (K-gold)

Executive summary – was replicated in the UK. Consum-

jewellery was relatively more robust than the 24-karat

ers benefitted from last year’s higher-priced stock having

(chuk kam) segment. The government’s anti-corruption

worked its way out of the market. Lower international pric-

drive may have contributed to this trend.

es were reflected at the retail level and retailers took the

The Golden week holiday in the opening weeks of

opportunity to start building stocks ahead of the season-

October lifted demand at the end of the quarter. Reports

ally strong fourth quarter. The 18 % increase in Q3 was the

so far in Q4 suggest that sales during the holiday period

fifth consecutive year-on-year rise in UK jewellery demand.

were good, but fairly short lived. However, demand should

Gold jewellery demand in Russia edged up to 18.6 t,

begin to pick up towards the end of the year thanks to the

marginally above Q3 2013. This was in spite of a rise in

usual boost from Chinese New Year.

the average domestic gold price – in contrast to most

Indonesia – largest of the smaller Asian markets – saw

other markets – due to a weaker rouble. The market has

Q3 demand dip below 10 t. This was partially a response to

recovered well since the 2009 collapse, holding above the

strength of demand last year. But equally important was the

10-year quarterly average of 17.5 t. However, domestic

Presidential election in July, which created a degree of politi-

geopolitical challenges reined in demand growth, the pace

cal instability and discouraged spending on gold jewellery.

of which is slowing.

Jewellery demand in Turkey of 19.2 t was the lowest Q3 on record. Consumers were unnerved by domestic political turmoil; worrying economic signals; and escalating Syrian violence in close proximity to the Turkish border.

www.balticjewellerynews.com

89

Wondermondo.com

DOMINICAN AMBER REPORT

IS BLUE AMBER among the world's rarest gems?

By Alec CORDAY

Northern amber site

Y

ATLANTIC OCEAN

Santiago

ou bet it is. Most prices for rare gems are basically adjusted according to what the seller wants to have and the buyer is willing to pay. And that

depends a lot on the value the general public opinion puts on said gem. Let's compare it with the “rare” diamonds.

The yearly production of gem-quality diamonds is at a

Eastern amber site – 1

DOMINICAN REPUBLIC

whopping 130 million carats. That's more than 20 metric

Eastern amber site – 2

Santo Domingo

tons. A lot more. But as De Beers' Nicky Oppenheimer said: “I don't want diamonds to be discounted. I abhor it. What

La Romana

is tantalizing is that at the luxury end – the famous blue box of Tiffany's – there are brands getting the margins and markups enjoyed in the luxury goods business as a whole.

CARIBBEAN SEA

We want to see stores pushing the preciousness of dia0

monds rather than treating them as a commodity you can

80 km

discount.”

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90

DOMINICAN AMBER REPORT

Or this one: “We realised that R&D was going to make the difference to this business. Diamond can be engineered in many ways to suit different applications. You can control characteristics like shape, crystal strength and thermal resistance that's why it's called an engineer's best friend,” said Hultner, Diamond Research Laboratory (DRL), South Africa.

See how 'rare' diamonds are? Rare my foot.

And Blue Amber? Although there are no official numbers, but in comparison, top-grade Blue Amber will be found up to 50 kilos per year, high-grade Blue Amber has probably a yearly output of approximately 150 to 250 kilos, while the low-grade does not exceed 900 kilos per year.

Now, that IS rare.

BLUE AMBER IS MUCH RARER

Just how is Blue Amber graded? There are three fac-

than diamonds!

tors in setting prices and both fluctuate radically: availability, color and translucence or even transparence.

Availability is probably the most controlling one.

There is blue amber in several parts of the world, like Mexico and Indonesia, even some in Australia.But the most asked-for high grade blue amber stems from the Dominican Republic.

Many outside factors influence the amount surfacing, the least of which is not rain.

And nobody likes to work in a flooded mine. Therefore, during the rainy season (Ocober to May) finds are scarce. And during the hurricane season (June to September), the mines are often flooded as well. The other question is: for how long will blue amber be found? The mines have not yet run out, but there is a strong possibility that it might happen one day.

Color and translucence are the more complicated ones. The more inclusions, the stronger the color. The more translucence, the weaker the color.

This makes it difficult for a blue amber merchant to please customers since he is bound by nature's limitations.

In the Baltic most of the amber produced for the world market is heated an treated to guarantee an even quality.

With blue amber, this is not possible.

Compared to regular amber and its color variations it

increases over time. True, there will never be a well-known

is in the highest price range, fluctuating with the market

Blue Amber market in the likes of diamonds, but that is not

value according to the above factors. Matter of fact, clean

a bad thing, to the contrary.

and transparent blue amber is more expensive than gold

Doesn't it feel good to know you love Blue Amber, a gem so much rarer than diamonds?

and many diamonds.

Therefore, if you find a piece of blue amber being

Yeah...diamonds are a girls best friend. But Blue Amber is her true love.

offered too cheap, it might not be the real thing you are looking at. What about it's investment value? Unlike dia-

› Visit: http://www.blueamber.info

monds Blue Amber actually is an investment whose value

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91

INDIAN JEWELLERY REPORT

THE FUTURE OF AMBER IS IN INDIA – AN INTERVIEW WITH NEERAJ KAYATHWAL The tremendous size and cultural diversity of the Indian market certainly can put off amber jewellery producers who are focused on China and are not looking for new outlets. In Neeraj Kayathwal's opinion, however, now is the right time to invest there. Why?

Neeraj KAYATHWAL, has over 25 years of experience in the jewellery and precious stones

By Anna SADO Amber Portal amber.com.pl

What do Indians see in amber? Does the stone

Yes, Polish producers concentrate on the Chinese

have any traditions in India – the country of gold jew-

market, as there is high level of acceptance for amber. It

ellery encrusted with diamonds?

appears when some stone or material becomes socially

Knowledge about amber is rather limited here. Espe-

accepted. In order to achieve this status, promotion con-

cially taking into account the fact that to hear about amber

nected with such a product is necessary, so as it becomes

and to know what it actually is, are two completely differ-

fashionable on a particular market. Platinum wasn’t socially

ent things. Most of amber that can be seen on the Indian

accepted in India, however it changed when the Platinum

market is in the form of jewellery. Unfortunately, most

Gild launched appropriate promotional activities. Today,

often those are fakes make of plastic and other materials.

the platinum market in India is growing from one year to

Amber became more popular when back in 2013, in Guja-

another. In my view, India is a very good market. Although

rat in the western part of India, deposits of fossilised resin

that market is sensitive to price changes, its potential is

were discovered. In Hindi amber is called kaharua. Some

enormous. Each market becomes saturated sooner or

tribes, such as the ones in the northern-east part of the

later, and China is surely no exception to that rule. The

country, use amber in their jewellery.

question is: China and what next? 20 –25 years ago amber

Amber has never been promoted in India as a jewellery stone,

virtually didn’t exist in China.

in the way that for instance sapphires or diamonds are. Currently,

You said that acceptance for amber is necessary.

diamonds are very popular among the mass customers, mainly as a

Is the Indian market ready to accept amber in the

result of the DeBeers concern’s activities.

form of modern jewellery, rather that the beads as it

At the moment, Polish producers of amber prod-

has been the case so far?

ucts are focused on the Chinese market. However,

Yes. The Indian market has changed a lot in the last

the voices that they should slowly begin to look

few years, and in my opinion it is the right time to imple-

for alternative markets, can also be heard here and

ment new ideas, concepts and products. An Indian con-

there. In your opinion, could it be the Indian market?

sumer is highly aware of the latest jewellery trends in the

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92

INDIAN JEWELLERY REPORT 

IIJS trade fair in Mumbai, did not have a single piece of amber jewellery Amber color is popular in Indian wedding 

world. As I mentioned before, the Indian market is highly price sensitive and at the same time has a great price awareness. Introducing amber beads in necklaces or earrings is an easier and safer way of entering this market. The more modern the jewellery looks, the higher its chances for success are. The Indians will as happily wear beads as the western fashion. I’m not trying to say that the larger and more exclusive jewellery cannot be introduced to this market. It is important, however, how amber is launched to that market. Decisive promotional activities should be taken with the emphasis place on the fascinating history of amber and its unique healing properties. Yes, the Indian market is ready for modern jewellery.

What does the term modern jewellery mean in reference to the Indian market? I assume that it is completely different jewellery to that from Europe or different regions in Asia.

In India trends don’t change as dramatically as in Europe.

For a long time, people there were very conservative in their approach to the new fashion trends in the world – it’s the same in the case of jewellery. A lot has changed in the last 10 years, as far as the acceptance of European trends is concerned, and the changes are really well visible. The Indians buy European style jewellery. In the last few years many international brands and makes have opened their shops in India. It is a very big country and the fashion sense is greatly varied depending on the region. A contemporary Indian woman is well-read and travels a lot. She is familiar with the trends and brands all over the world. In November Bulgari opened its first shop in New Delhi.

At the IIJS trade fair in Mumbai I didn’t notice a single piece of amber jewellery. I couldn’t find any in the shop in the city centre, either. Are you sure that in India it’s really a good time for amber?

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93

INDIAN JEWELLERY REPORT

If a product has not been introduced to the market, Traditional Indian jewellery in Interantional Jewellery Week 2014

how can we expect any results? Is India not a brand new market, which might be explored? Let’s consider how fascinating entering this market might be. Let’s imagine its marketing capabilities. Amber has a great origin and rich history. Currently the Indian market is worth about $40 billion, and by 2016 it is projected to be 45 –50 billion.

Obviously, the large part of it, that is 80 % is gold jewellery. However, 20 % of its value is still a lot.

DeBeers appeared in India when the masses had no idea about diamond jewellery. It’s enough to take a look at what is happening there today: nobody can even think to wear jewellery made of semi-precious stones. Where did this fashion come from? It’s a European fashion that has been adapted by the Indians and now they treat it as their own. I am convinced that the time is always right to start, otherwise it will never be right. DeBeers is a cartel with a huge marketing budget. Contrary to amber jewellery producers, who don’t form a cartel, and don’t have the funds to build a brand new market.

Start with small steps. It’s a mantra. I agree that there is no comparison between DeBeers, which has a huge budget, and amber jewellery producers. However, DeBeers is merely an example here. It does not mean, though, that small budget plans have no chance to succeed. Not everybody needs a full page size advert in a newspaper or on billboards in each city. A non-standard way of thinking, independent of the budget, is very important. Showing jewellery with amber at the main exhibition events for the industry and the public will allow to reach consumers. Placing information in the media on a regular basis will also help here.

Individual meetings with goldsmiths can make a really big difference and have a considerable impact on the future of amber in India. In my opinion, amber organisations, the Polish government, Polish embassy and consular offices should increase the scope of the support they provide.

You have attempted to produce amber jewellery yourself. Have you achieved a success in sales?

I bought a few blocks of amber at the trade fair in Hong Kong and I was fascinated with amber. Back then I saw real amber for the first time in my life. I made only 5 pieces of jewellery, no more. It was rather an experiment, carried out in order to understand how amber can be processed. During those attempts of production a few pieces were destroyed, as the workers didn’t know how to process amber. I showed the finished products to my family and friends – they really like them. However, to sell you need a whole collections of 100 or 200 pieces, with a

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94

INDIAN JEWELLERY REPORT Memories from International Jewellery Week 2014

IN INDIA TRENDS DON'T CHANGE as dramatically as in Europe proper story to support it. In my opinion amber will be a

panies notice the potential of the Indian market and their

great discovery for the Indian market. Perhaps even bigger

future connected with it. It’s teamwork, where everybody

than the one from the Jurassic Park? (laughs)

has the same vision and goal. It surely won’t be easy. The

Have you ever thought about selling jewellery

plan itself must come from the amber organisations, or the

with amber from Poland in India?

producers. Currently I am a member of the management

Certainly. After my visit to Hong Kong in 2013 I was

board of a jewellery company, which is about to begin its

more than convinced that amber and amber jewellery can

activity. We’re going to deal with fantastic, light-weight

successfully be sold in India. I launched a partnership with

diamonds and gold jewellery. Online sale is the future both

one of the Polish companies and became their representative

in India and all over the world. It also means tremendous

in India, south-eastern Asian countries, Australia, and other

possibilities of amber promotion. As the proverb says:

countries located around India. We’ve signed an agreement,

“Rome wasn’t built in a day”.

but to my disappointment nothing else has happened in that

Neeraj Kayathwal, has over 25 years of experience in

field. I think that the lack of raw material resulting from the

the jewellery and precious stones industry. He specialises

problems in the Ukraine has forced this company to revise

in the diamond and precious stone trade, jewellery mar-

their plans connected to entering new markets.

keting on the Indian market and beyond, he’s focused on

What forced you to give up on your plans? Are

growth, researching current trends in the jewellery indus-

you looking for a new, better partner?

try. He is a member and exhibitor at many leading fair

I have not given up on my plans. From the perspective of

trade events of the jewellery industry in the world.

time I think that it’s perhaps better that the things worked

Currently, he is the director of a company dealing with

out the way they did. That company was clearly not ready to

stationary sales www.ilovediamonds.com, which is soon

enter a new market, and I needed more time to learn more

going to launch online sales in Mumbai, India.

about amber. All marketing ideas must be well thoughtthrough and only then they can be implemented.

What is your plan?

There is no point in generating any plans without support. The plans will make sense only when amber com-

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95

TURKISH JEWELLERY REPORT

World Class International B2B Gold and Jewellery Trade Fair; 40th INTERNATIONAL “ISTANBUL JEWELRY SHOW” MARCH 2015 Turkey’s number one and the ultimate trading

play & Packaging Materials, Gemological Labs, Transporta-

platform for the worldwide jewelry industry

tion , Softwares, Safes, Mold, Machinery, Jewellery Tools

professionals; “Istanbul Jewelry Show” March

& Equipments just for industry professionals.

2015 organised by UBM Rotaforte will be Exhibition Center (CNR Expo) for the 40 th time,

CAPITAL OF THE GOLD AND JEWELERY INDUSTRY IN THE REGION

in its 30 th year anniversary.

As the 3rd largest manufacturer of gold jewelry and

held in between 12–15 March 2015 at Istanbul

the 2nd biggest exporter of the world, Turkey serves

Press Release by ISTANBUL JEWELRY SHOW Press Office

The

around 80 countries in the region as a trading hub for countries in the Mediterranean, Eastern Europe, Russian Federation and CIS, the Middle East, Black Sea, Caucasia

4 day event will occupy more than

and North Africa.

60,000 square metres of exhibition

With Turkey’s strategic location,”Istanbul Jewelry

space in 6 halls and gather over

Show March” is serving as the gateway for the world jew-

1250 local and overseas exhibitors in National and

elry industry and provides a unique meeting platform for to

International Pavillions from more than 25 countries

explore new business opportunities, ideal place to source

including Turkey with an extensive display of Fine Gold

for wide range of new products, discover the latest trends

Jewellery, Pearl Jewellery, Silver Jewellery and Households,

of gold, diamond, silver jewelry, gold mounting, gemstones,

Diamonds & Precious Stones Jewellery, Diamonds, Precious

pearls and watches with the competitive price and quality to

and Semi -Precious Stones, Pearls, Watches, Jewellery Dis-

order for the new spring – summer – autumn retail season.

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96

Istanbul Jewelry Show, an international exhibition for jewellery, gems , watches and related equipment. Now in its

combined with the latest technology, outstanding crafts-

30th year, the exhibition is held twice a year, in March and

manship, immense variety, flexible production capacity,

in October. Overall, the shows attract almost 60,000 visi-

excellent finishing quality, competitive prices and shortest

tors and 1,700 exhibitors, occupying net show floor space

delivery time make “Istanbul Jewelry Show March” to

of more than 38,500 square meters. Products covered

be an ideal place for sourcing products on every category

include gold, diamond and silver jewellery, precious and

of price and quality, from price point merchandise to high-

semi-precious stones, pearls, gold mountings, watches and

end design jewelry.

clocks, machinery, tools and equipment, display units and security devices. The business is supported by the Turkish

“ISTANBUL JEWELRY SHOW” MARCH; PURELY TRADE – SIMPLY THE MARKET PLACE

Jewellery Association JTR, a national trade body which represents more than 1,100 jewellery companies, including the major manufacturers. UBM Rotaforte also organises Turk-

Istanbul Jewelry Show March as a “Destination

ish jewellery pavilions at a number of third-party events in

To Satisfy Any Sourcing Needs” from raw materials and

U.A.E-Dubai, India-Mumbai and Germany-Freiburg.

technology to fine finished jewellery will gather together the entire jewellery industry including manufacturers, wholesalers, retailers, exporters, importers, designers, buying agents and major industry professionals with a bigger selection of products of high quality contemporary designs and competitive prices by placing orders at the fair site.

Istanbul Jewelry Show March is supported by the Small and Medium Enterprises Development Organisation (KOSGEB), Jewellery Exporters’ Association (JTR), certified by the Union of International Fairs (UFI) and the Quality Management System ISO-9001, ensuring that it represents an outstanding international trade event serving the fast growing domestic and international markets surrounding Turkey.

ABOUT UBM ROTAFORTE (www.ubmrotaforte.com) UBM Rotaforte, a joint-venture company formed by UBM Asia and Rotaforte International Fairs Inc., owns the

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97

TURKISH JEWELLERY REPORT

The Turkish art and craft of jewellery, inspired by 5000 years of cultural and historical heritage of Anatolia

INTERNATIONAL AMBER ASSOCIATION REPORT

AMBER IN POLAND In 2014 Poland experienced a real amber fever. However, it was more of a media frenzy than actual changes in the business. The fever began in February, with an article on amber in an influential daily newspaper, Rzeczpospolita (Rzeczpospolita). The author of this article compared amber prices with those of gold, arguing that the price of a gram of amber has already passed the price of the latter. Other journalists, without having verified this information, multiplied assumed geological formations by the astronomical price, which caused even more heat in the media. Comparing media pieces on amber in the Polish media in 2013 and 2014, their number has increased by several dozen times.

Report by Michal KOSIOR

A

mber-bearing sediments of the Paleogene period are located in Lublin province, in the triangle of Parczew, Lubartow, and Radzyn, known as

Parczew Delta. The deposits resemble the layers of amber in Western Ukraine, Klesov Delta, however, they are located more deeply, 20–30 metres deep on average. So far, only one area was documented in the period of 1980– 1990 as a viable deposit. The deposit was named after the location where it was discovered: Gorka Lubartowska. Its area is approximately 200 hectares, and it is estimated to Conference Lublin amber in Chelm, picture by PWS

have more than 1,000 tonnes of amber.

The larger part of the area is owned by the Lublin Region Municipality. After an extensive use of this land for

procedures were followed the municipality is making

agricultural purposes, results of a tender were announced

preparations to announce another bidding competition

for leasing several land lots (area totalling 80 hectares) for

that is planned for March 2015.

exploration and documentation of amber deposits. The

In February 2015, the State School of Higher Education

results of this tender were published in December 2014.

in Chełm (PWSZ) organised a two-day conference entitled

The lessee had to explore and document amber deposits,

Lublin Amber – Findings, Geology, Deposits, Prospects,

and, after documenting them, the lessee would be

Preconditions. The rector of the School, Professor Jozef

given priority to seek mining concessions. Six companies

Zajac, said that the most important task and the purpose

participated in the bidding process, and the initial monthly

of the conference was to change the negative attitude

fee set for the land use amounted to 1,500 PLN per hectare.

of members of the municipality towards amber and its

The highest rent fee was the only evaluation criterion. The

deposits, and to show the opportunities amber creates in

best bid was submitted by a Lithuanian company, UAB

the local economy. The conference aimed to summarise

Botanex, from Klaipeda (8,000 PLN, or about 2,000 EUR).

relevant news and determine both directions and meth-

Another non-winning bid was 1,560 PLN. The winning

ods of future exploration of amber deposits in Lublin. This

bid was immediately assessed as unrealistically expensive,

conference was a meeting of scientific, municipal, conces-

especially since the exploration had to take two years, and

sion and control bodies as well as of potential investors

also include procedures of extension and even termination

and opinion makers. In fact, the conference was attended

of amber exploration. Soon it appeared that the Lithuanian

by the most prominent Polish geologists: Prof. Barbara

company was impossible to contact, so after appropriate

Kosmowska-Ceranowicz from the Museum of the Earth

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98

INTERNATIONAL AMBER ASSOCIATION REPORT Fragment of amber-bearing sediments of the Holocene period in Gdansk area. Photo Michal Kosior

in Warsaw of the Polish Academy of Sciences, prof. Niec

purposes. Amber excavated during the deposit documen-

Marek from the Polish Academy of Sciences in Kracow,

tation is supplied to industrial companies in Gdansk. Land

prof. Ryszard Salacinski from the University of Warsaw,

lots in Northern Mazovia and Kurpie region, where flat

dr. Jacek Kasinski from the State Geological Institute in

secondary deposits of the Holocene period were success-

Warsaw, dr. Regina Kramarska from the Gdansk Institute

fully operated in the nineteenth and twentieth centuries,

of Marine Geology. It was also attended by local govern-

are prepared for exploration works. This extraction only

ment representatives, businessmen, and Robert Pytlos,

partly meets the needs of the Polish amber processing

the Representative of Gdansk Mayor for Amber Affairs,

business, hence, opening an open mine in the deposits of

who presented Gdansk experience related to land lease.

the Paleogene period in Lublin is needed in order to fully

The preliminary amount of amber deposits in the Lublin

stop the import of raw materials.

area is estimated to be 250,000 tonnes, however, detailed Hydraulic extraction in Gdansk area. Photo Michal Kosior

geological investigations are needed to confirm the profitability of amber extraction.

Since the autumn of 2014, after a letter of intent was signed by the local government representatives, organisations and companies, geological exploration has been taking place in territories of the Parczew parish. The goal of this research is to assess amber resources in the parish and to inform the people if their lands are as valuable as many people think.

At the same time, more than 30 permits have been issued for geological works and exploration of amber deposits in Zulaw Wislanych and Gdansk areas, where municipal and private land lots are leased for exploration

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99

INCLUSIONS

16 MILLION-YEAR-OLD HITCHHIKER – AMBER SPECIMEN REVEALS UNKNOWN ANIMAL BEHAVIOURS

S

Press Release by FACULTY OF LIFE SCIENCES, THE UNIVERSITY OF MANCHESTER  The CT scan of the

springtail on the back of the mayfly

 Mayfly Wider Shot

S

tunning images, including video footage, from a CT scan of amber have revealed the first evidence of any creature using an adult mayfly for transport.

Researchers at the University of Manchester say this

INCLUSIONS

16 million-year-old hitchhiker most likely demonstrates activity that is taking place today but has never previously been recorded.

Entombed in amber the tiny springtail can be seen resting in a v-shaped depression at the base of one of the mayfly's wings. It appears to have secured itself for transport using its prehensile antennae.

Dr David Penney and colleagues from the Faculty of Life Sciences and the School of Materials used a high Amber Mayfly head and springtail

resolution CT scanner to take over 3,000 X-rays from different angles. The scientists then created slices, showing the fossil in cross sections. From these slices 3D digital

uncommon to see in amber. I was interested in the fact

images of the springtail were made so an accurate analysis

that this was the first time a creature had been found on an

of its behaviour could be conducted.

adult mayfly but I didn't truly appreciate the significance of

Dr Penney says: “The images are really impressive. This

my find until I used the CT scanner and was able to identify

pioneering approach to studying fossils has allowed us

the animal as a springtail.”

an insight into the behaviour of one of the world’s most

Phoresy in adult mayflies has never before been

prevalent organisms.”

recorded. They live for just a short period of time from one

Springtails are minute creatures (usually only 1–2 mm

hour to a few days depending on the species. The primary

long) related to true insects. They’re found around the

function of the adult stage is reproduction and they are

world in great numbers, including here in the UK. Garden-

unable to feed. This makes it very difficult to study mayflies

ers will recognise them as the tiny insects that hop around

in their natural habitat and record instances of phoresy.

when soil is disturbed. They readily colonize newly-formed

The amber specimen encasing the mayfly and the

islands but very little is known about how they manage

springtail provides an accurate snapshot of behaviour

to migrate. One of the reasons is that they are incredibly

that scientists wouldn't otherwise be able to record, high-

nervous creatures and have an astonishing ability to leap

lighting one important application of the fossil record for

away from danger using a springing organ (the furca) on

understanding the present. The near perfect condition of

the underside of the abdomen, which makes observing

the mayfly demonstrates that it died instantaneously and

them in life very difficult.

wasn't moved far from where it rested when the resin ran

Interestingly, when the 3D image of the springtail in

over it. Equally the position of the springtail resting on the

amber is magnified it's possible to see that the springtail

back of the mayfly and the fact that it is in contact with

is very slightly detached (by just 50 micrometres) from the

the creature means the pair were unlikely to have been

mayfly. This suggests it was attempting to spring away as

brought together by the resin as it moved down the tree.

the amber set around it.

The details of Dr Penney’s research has been published

Only one previous case of phoresy (the transportation

in the journal, PLOS ONE. More analysis of amber using CT

of one organism by another) has been recorded for spring-

scans is continuing.

tails. This was found in a piece of Baltic amber where five

Dr Penney says: “The CT scan allows us to build up

springtails were hooked in a row on the leg of a harvest-

a 3D image that catches minute details of the animal.

man arachnid.

We can rotate the image to see parts of the creature

It was this discovery in 2010 which prompted Dr

that are obscured when looking from the outside in. In

Penney to take a closer look at his own specimen. “I had

effect, we are able to digitally dissect the fossil without

initially thought the creature on the mayfly may have been

causing any damage to it whatsoever. This technology has

a tiny nymphal pseudoscorpion, as they are known to use

revolutionised how we study fossils and the findings are

other creatures for transport, and this behaviour is not

incredibly exciting.”

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101

PERSONALITY

MY HOBBY IS TO BUY AMBER FROM ALL AROUND THE WORLD Baltic Jewellery News had the great opportunity to interview Jassim Bohamad, an amber jewellery collector. The Bohamad family established the first Amber Company and the first private family museum. Last year the International Baltic Jewellery Show “Amber Trip” chose him to be the Honourable Ambassador in Kuwait. Jassim Bohamad is trying to get advance publicity for the Arab countries about the “Amber Trip” show.

By Virginija ZYGIENE

I belong to the Bohamad family, it is a business family. We were

How would you present Ku-

the first family to become involved

wait and yourself to jewellers?

in amber jewellery in Kuwait. It

Kuwait is the oldest of the Arabic

is a successful business passing

and Gulf countries. Amber jewellery

from grandfather to father to son.

there is used by eminent people and

Anyone who would like to visit

very rich families. And Kuwaiti people

can arrange to do so through our

are among the most prolific owners

accountant.

Could you tell us more about

of amber jewellery and they collect amber from the best countries like Germany, Lithuania, Poland, Ukraine, and elsewhere. In our country ladies

Jassim BOHAMAD, the Honourable Ambassador of the International Baltic Jewellery Show “Amber Trip” in Kuwait

and men use amber as an accessory.

your family’s amber museum?

And why exactly you are interested in amber?

The Bohamad family have been

Also it is part of our culture and it inspires other countries

involved for more than ten years, we have been also

like Bahrain, Qatar and the United Arab Emirates, etc.

involved with all the international and local exhibitions for

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102

 Rosaries of white, and white with yellow amber sell the

ish people are the best at what they create as they are

best in Arab countries

talented.

Could you name the top exhibitions you will visit

do lots of amber business deals during the year and all

The exhibitions are wonderful everywhere but the best exhibition is in Poland because it is big and beautiful. On

around the world.

I adore all kinds of amber jewellery as I said. It is a

the other hand the exhibition in Vilnius is good, but needs

hereditary business; it came to me through my grandfather

to include other exhibitors, as at the moment the only

and father. Talking about myself I have earned a good liv-

exhibitors are Polish and Lithuanian, there should also be

ing from amber over the last 20 years especially the last

exhibitors from other countries, such as the Middle East

five years and that’s because the price of amber has been

and Europe, etc.

What is your mission and vision as Honourable

increasing in the Gulf countries.

Ambassador of the International Baltic Jewellery

People in rich countries love to own amber jewellery

show Amber Trip in Kuwait?

which comes from their culture. As for the shops in the Baltic Sea region, they are good for tourism and to buy

Last year the “Amber trip” exhibition chose me to be

gifts as souvenirs. However they are not good for a profes-

its ambassador. I try to make advance publicity in the Arab

sional such as myself because amber is expensive, is not of

countries about the exhibition.

good quality or what I am looking for.

In my opinion the “Amber trip” is the best exhibition

How do you see amber in the world context?

and I sign up yearly because of family, and the weather. It

Amber prices have not been stable over the last few

is a neat tidy place and the members exactly know what I

years and this is normal because it is line with the main

like and they help me to choose what I want.

Thank you very much for your interview!

rule of supply and demand. Furthermore, in the last five years the demand for amber has increased a lot especially among the Chinese. This leads to gambling with the prices of amber and leads to prices in the shops of the Baltic area being excessive and so at international exhibitions people shy away from buying amber and go more for gold and silver.

At the moment all amber dealers are anticipating that the prices will change, especially in processor countries like Kaliningrad and Poland, and everybody is watching the developments, and I think that the price change will be a surprise, and I would advise everyone to be patient and not buy at the current prices as they are excessive.

In your opinion, when can we expect stabilisation in amber prices?

In my opinion, prices have risen and became crazier for people who want to buy and sell amber. I would like amber to get a real and fair price so that people can practice and be confident with the hobby to buy more amber.

What are your plans for future?

We will try to ensure that Kuwait will be best amber country from the Gulf and all the Arabic countries by using and manufacturing unique objects.

That’s why we brought professional artists from around the world to work in this business; they are from China Egypt, Iraq, Kuwait and Lithuania, Syria, Turkey. All of these are working in Kuwait and we believe that Turk-

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103

PERSONALITY

this year?

amber jewellery. We own the best Amber Jewellery and

JEWELLERY CRIME

A GANG OF ILLEGAL AMBER DEALERS SEIZED IN KALININGRAD Report by клопс.ru

On 25

February (2015 – by editors), the police and the special rapid reaction

unit of Kaliningrad detained six members of an organized group engaged in amber trafficking. According to the press service of the regional Department of the Interior, the alleged leader was 33-year-old resident of Moscow.

The police detained the man on Dzerzhinskogo street and found 75 kilograms of 16-fraction raw amber in the trunk of his BMW X5. According to preliminary data, the Muscovite bought the solar stone at a region local for 48 thousand USD. The seller was identified and taken to the police department for the proceedings.

At the same time, on the Kalinin Square in Kaliningrad, an illegal sale of a major lump of amber weighing 484 grams was stopped by police officers. The dealer was found to be 37-year-old native of Kaliningrad, who acted as a mediator in the group. His asking price for the nugget was a few hundred thousands of roubles.

Further, four more members of an organized group were detained as a part of the large-scale raid. Operatives and investigators are examining all the detainees now.

The gang members were armed with cold and traumatic weapons. Besides, one of the cars, a means of transport of the suspects, was registered to a foreign company.

The police found

75 KILOGRAMS OF 16-FRACTION RAW AMBER

Photos of the press service of Ministry for Internal Affairs of Russia in the Kaliningrad region

in the trunk of car

www.balticjewellerynews.com

104

In early December (of 2014 – Editor’s comment) law enforcement officers conducted a number of sanctioned

Kaliningrad police is investigating the disappearance

searches in the northern districts of Zhytomyr region, in

of amber from a secured storage building on Turukhansk

the locations where illegally mined amber was bought,

Street. As the Russian MIA (Ministry of Internal Affairs)

based on intelligence information.

Administration for the Kaliningrad region reported to Klops.

Right after the raids amber prices plummeted in the

Ru, on January 20, police received a statement from a rep-

area. According to a reliable source, the Chief of Olevsk

resentative of an amber distribution company, claiming that

District Police Department was clear about a loyalty tax,

40 bags of the solar stone, weighing 25 kg each, had been

that was 100 USD per workday per shop. Local buyers have

stolen. The damage amounted to more than six million rou-

nominated an “elder” to collect money from all the “entre-

bles. The police has found that the crime was committed

preneurs” and hand it over to a police officer according to

during the period between November 7, 2014 and Janu-

an agreed procedure. The police officer would then hand

ary 20, 2015. At that time the storage area was guarded

nearly all the funds to a Regional Chief. One can only guess

by a security guard and video surveillance cameras along

what happens with the funds afterwards.

the perimeter. The representative of the company explained

Please remember that the volume of amber illegally

that the amber was bought from the Amber Combine.

mined in just one field of Olevsk district in the months of

ATTEMPTS TO BRING UKRAINIAN AMBER TO THE KALININGRAD REGION IN ORDER TO SELL IT AS THE BALTIC ONE, November 6, 2014 Report by rosbalt.ru; Klops.Ru

September and October was worth 700 million UAH. As it has turned out, the area is regularly visited by expensive SUVs carrying cash and accompanied by traffic police cars. Information has been obtained that 10 million UAH and 2 million USD in cash was brought from the capital to Olevsk by the main highway.

Attempts to smuggle Ukrainian amber into the Kaliningrad region have been noticed, said the Head of the MIA

IN UKRAINE 30 AMBER THIEVES BEAT POLICE, January 23, 2015

Report by bloknot.ru

(the Ministry of Internal Affairs) Administration for the region Yevgeny Martynov in his interview to Klops.Ru. “In its current condition Ukrainian amber has practically no chance on the international market. Therefore, some

The incident took place in Rivne region near the vil-

people had the idea to mix it with Kaliningrad amber and sell

lage of Fedorovka. Six Ukrainian policemen suffered the

it under our famous brand name abroad. However, we have

beating.

successfully prevented all such attempts and the situation is

Local police learned that a group of people were ille-

under control,” – Martynov said. He denied rumours that

gally mining amber in Galbin area. A squad of law enforce-

every year at least 100 tonnes of amber are smuggled out of

ment officers decided to disrupt the mining and came to

the region. “Today an illegal purchase of a more or less large

the location where it was organised. Here, the police saw

shipment of amber is virtually impossible, and it was verified

that amber was being mined by several dozen people using

using undercover methods. However, of course, preventing

special equipment: power pumps. Upon arrival law enforc-

absolutely all such attempts is not yet possible. For example,

ers attempted to take the evidence they needed from the

the last one-time confiscation by customs officers included

quarry but it cost them their health.

72 kilograms of amber found on a 30-tonne truck. Or, for

About thirty angry thieves attacked the police officers

example, a Chinese was detained at a border crossing, with

and began beating them and threatening them with a hunt-

20 kilograms of amber found in his backpack. You should

ing rifle. The policemen had to give the collected evidence

agree that these are specific performance indicators of the

back and escape. After the incident, six law enforcers were

efficiency of law enforcement agencies,” – said the Chief of

taken to the hospital due to various body injuries.

the MIA Administration for the Kaliningrad region.

www.balticjewellerynews.com

105

JEWELLERY CRIME

ILLEGAL AMBER MINING THRIVES IN ZHYTOMYR DESPITE SECURITY PERSONNEL AND VIDEO REGION, January 22, 2015 CAMERAS A TON OF AMBER WAS STOLEN FROM A Report by zhzh.info WAREHOUSE IN KALININGRAD, January 23, 2015 Report by Klops.Ru

OUR FRIENDS

FLASHBACKS FROM THE AMBER TRIP 2014 1

V.S. DARVIN from “Darvin Jewelery“ and Giedrius GUNTORIUS from “Amber Trip“

2

Simona STATNECKYTE, jeweler

3

Hinz ECKHARD and Helmut SPANGENBERG from “Ostsee Schmuck“

4

Remigijus ZADEIKIS ir Martynas ZADEIKIS from “RMD Linija”

2

5

Knut RUDLOFF ir Mauro ONGARO from “Nordschmuck“

6

Daiva MOLYTE-LUKAUSKIENE from A. Lukausko įmonė with the visitor of the exhibition Dovile

7

Aleksandras RUS fro Aleksandras Rus, exhibitor

8

Asta MILIENE ir Dainius MILIUS from D. Miliaus ŪKĮ

9

Albertas PETKEVICIUS from A. Petkevičiaus Prekybos Įmonė

3 4

5

1

OUR FRIENDS

6

7 11

8

13 Stanislaw STEPIEN with his wife Urszula from “Natalex“

14 Our unknown friend

9 10

10 Astijus JASAITIS with his wife Ingrida from “Napoleonas“

11 Indrė GIEDRAITYTE, designer

12 Anna MANAKHOVA from

Kaliningrad Amber combine

12 13 14

CARICATURE

XII International Baltic Jewellery Show Amber Trip Date: 18–21 March, 2015 Location: Vilnius, Lithuania www.ambertrip.com info@ambertrip.com

13th International Gold & Jewelry Exhibition 2015 Date: 20–25 April, 2015 Location: Mishref, Kuwait www.kif.net info@kif.net

Asia Fashion Jewellery & Accessories Fair-September Date: 16–19 September, 2015 Venue: HKCEC, Hong Kong www.asiafja.com salesafj@cmpasia.com

International Jewelry & Watch Show Abu Dhabi (JWS) Date: 5–9 May, 2015 Location: Abu Dhabi, United Arab Emirates www.jws.ae Mohamad.mehieddine@reedexpo.ae

Jewelry Fair Korea Date: 16–19 April, 2015 Location: Seoul, Korea www.jewelfair.com jewelfair@kita.net

September Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair Date: 16–22 September, 2015 www.Jewellerynetasia.com salesjwf@cmpasia.com

38th Mideast Watch & Jewellery Show 2015 Date: 31 March– 4 April, 2015 Location: Sharjah, United Arab Emirates www.mideastjewellery.com info@expo-centre.ae

METS exhibition Date: 24–27 June, 2015 www.mets.hk/en/index.php exhibition@mets.hk

Amberif, International Fair of Amber, Jewellery and Gemstones Date: 25–28 March, 2015 Venue: Exhibition Center Gdansk, Gdansk, Poland http://www.amberif.amberexpo.pl amberif@mtgsa.com.pl ewa.rachon@mtgsa.com.pl Istanbul Jewelry Show March Date: 12–15 March, 2015 Venue: CNR Expo Center, Istambul, Turkey www.istanbuljewelryshow.com inquiries@rotaforte.com BASELWORLD 2015 Date: 19–26 March, 2015 Location: Basel, Switzerland www.baselworld.com visitor@baselworld.com Jewellery & Gem Fair Europe Date: 22–25 March, 2015 Locationa: Messe Freiburg, Freiburg, Germany www.JGF-Europe.com salesjgf-hk@ubm.com Oroarezzo Date: 9–12 May, 2015 Location: Arezzo, Italy www.oroarezzo.it oroarezzo@oroarezzo.it Aru-2015, 24 International Jewellery Fair Date: 9–12 April, 2015 Location: Almaty, Kazakhstan www.kazexpo.kz kazexpo@kazexpo.kz

IJK –19th International Jewellery Kobe 2015 Date: 13–15 May, 2015 Location: Tokyo, Japan www.ijk-fair.jp ijk-eng@reedexpo.co.jp Jewellery Expo Ukraine 2015 Date: 14–17 May, 2015 Location: Kiev, Ukraine www.kmkya.kiev.ua info@kmkya.kiev.ua G.L.D.A. Las Vegas Gem & Jewelry Show Date: 25–28 May, 2015 Location: Las Vegas, USA www.glda.com info@glda.com New Russian Style Date: 27–31 May, 2015 Location: Moscow, Russia www.eng.rjexpert.ru inter@jnwex.com JCK Las Vegas Date: 29 May–01 June, 2015 Venue: Las Vegas, USA www.jckonline.com inquiry@jck.reedexpo.com JUBINALE 2015 Date: 11–13 June, 2015 Venue: Krakow, Poland www.jubinale.com info@jubinale.com

www.balticjewellerynews.com

109

Jovella 2015 Date: 30 June-01 July, 2015 Venue: Tel Aviv, Israel http://www.stier.co.il/Jovella/ index_en.asp expo@stier.co.il India International Jewellery Show Date: 6–10 August, 2015 Venue: Bombay Exhibition Centre, Mumbai, India www.iijs.org info@gjepcindia.com Norwegian Gold & Ur Date: 27–30 August, 2015 Venue: Lillestrøm Exhibition's, Norway www.gull-og-ur-messe.no info@gull-og-ur-messe.no Japan Jewellery Fair (JJF) Date: 26–28 August, 2015 Venue: Tokyo, Japan www.japanjewelleryfair.com info@japanjewelleryfair.com AMBERMART Date: 27–29 August, 2015 Venue: Gdansk, Poland www.ambermart.amberexpo.pl ewa.rachon@mtgsa.com.pl

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