E X C L U S I V E M A G A Z I N E F O R T H E J E W E L L E R Y B U S I N E S S I N T H E B A LT I C S E A R E G I O N
March 2014 (26)
FASTEST WAY TO THE BALTIC SEA REGION!
Dear Readers, Changes that happened in 2013 and in the beginning of 2014 are promising a brighter future for jewellery business. Let me go through some of these changes. A new team has come to Kaliningrad Amber Combine with new ideas and passion, and hopefully jewellers will not have to deal with amber shortage issues in the near future. This is discussed in an interview with people who will bring fresh air to amber industry. Kaliningrad Region RF Jewellery Report has more details on the subject. Overall gold and silver demand is increasing, and jewellery industry in Europe is getting back on its feet. This growth manifested itself with the new and big jewellery fair in April in Freiburg, Germany. Introduction of the new fair by the well-known jewellery fair organiser UBM Asia is a good sign for jewellery industry in Europe. Furthermore, after the successful tenth anniversary Baltic Jewellery Show “Amber Trip“ is heading for the second decade with more exhibitors and VIP buyers. In
it easier for me to enter this new role. Most importantly I
his interview Giedrius Guntorius reveals expectations and
thank all the contributors, who agreed to be interviewed by
plans for the second decade. China’s economy is continu-
us. Without you this issue would not have such a variety of
ously growing together with the growth of the middle-
topics and interesting insights. Baltic Jewellery News is also
class population with a big demand for amber jewellery
very grateful to all the sponsors and of course the readers
and other jewellery items. Vivian Yang kindly agreed to give
for their positive feedback.
us her insights into jewellery demand in China and shared her amber industry experience with us.
Enjoy the issue!
I extend my heartiest thanks to my predecessor Editor-inChief Angele Juodzeviciene, whose work well done made
CONTENT: March 2014 (26) Topicalities 4 7
Amber producers – to the Governor: give us raw material and we will revive the amber industry The volumes of illegal extraction of amber decreased by almost a third in a year in the Kaliningrad Region
Kaliningrad Region RF Jewellery Report
Mikhail Zatsepin – “We want to return Amber brand to Russia”
Amberif 2014, the 21st international Fair of Amber, Jewellery and Gemstones Gold Silver Time – Made to Measure Jewellery which uncovers the secrets of the past Due to the Fascination with Amber...
Polish Jewellery Report 19 24 26
Lithuanian Jewellery Report 32 36 38
Amber Trip is entering the second decade AAfter 20 years of experience in the amber jewellery business Aleksas Mazukna decided to bring some fresh air Jewellery business trends in Lithuania
Latvian Jewellery Report 44 50
Amber in contemporary art jewellery
Alberto Martini – Conquering Baltic States
Estonian Jewellery Report
German Jewellery Report 54 58
Gemworld Munich – Towards the end, Autumn shows its golden face Jewellery & Gem Fair Europe meets the industry’s demands
Danish Jewellery Report 60
The Midnight Tiara
The Nobel Jewellery Prize 2013 Precious, the leading watch and jewellery fair in the Nordic region
Jewellery connecting environment with people
Swedish Jewellery Report
Finnish Jewellery Report
Norwegian Jewellery Report 68
Chinese Jewellery Report 72
Chinas’ hunger for Amber – how long will it last?
Ukrainian Jewellery Report 77 78
Abundance of bright events at the Jeweller Expo Ukraine 2013 international exhibition Prospects for the Ukrainian legal market of Amber
JUNWEX – jewellery celebration in St. Petersburg
St. Petersburg Jewellery Report Worldwide Report 82 83 84 85 86 88
The worldwide price for Raw Amber The worldwide price for Amber Silver 925 Jewellery The worldwide Gold price Istanbul Jewelry Show March – The Largest March Edition To Date Presenting International Amber Association
RIACETECH. Listening and paying attention to details
Technology Personality 94
With Amber for almost half a century!
Dr. Madeleine Albright will take your questions
The “Amber room”, worth a billion roubles, found in Kaliningrad region
Jewellery as a Statement Jewellery Crime
Other 103 104 105 106 107
LoveGold – created to inspire, Major Jewellery Trade Fairs Caricature. Silk Road – Amber Trip Advertisement in “Baltic Jewellery News“ Subscription Form
Application Form for XI International Baltic Jewellery Show “Amber Trip”
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We invite all those whose interests are related to our goals to join our project. Only with the help of various discussions perspective of the jewellery business of the region can become clear and the magazine – better. Thank you for the cooperation!
AMBER PRODUCERS – TO THE GOVERNOR:
give us raw material and we will revive the amber industry
By Klops.ru amber for processing, and some of them – for selling pur-
he amber producers are still complaining about the lack of amber raw material. On 25 December, Wednesday, at the meeting that was organized
all companies, we reviewed the numbers of employees,
by the Governor of the region in the Amber Combine,
who are working therein, and the equipment used for
Vasilij Simonov, the chairperson of Kaliningrad Regional
processing, and currently the process of amber sale de-
Non-Governmental Organisation of Businessmen Amber
pends on their capacities of production”. “The result is evident. If you compare the conferences
Union, stated that the most important factor for the de-
of the previous year and of the current year, they totally differ”, – said the Governor Nikolaj Cukanov. At that time
of raw material. Local government repeatedly asserted that amber obtained in Kaliningrad region must be processed by local
the issues of illegal mining have arose, the present-day
amber producers. However, the businessmen said that
issues differ absolutely. The work is going on further, requirements are being followed, virtually, all orders are be-
of raw amber from the Amber factory. According to him, the volumes of amber processing in
“Many fake businessmen appeared and they buy am-
the region increased by 30%.
ber not for processing purposes, but sale”, – stated Mr. -
“We have to do what the producers were talking
ducers sell amber for the amount of millions in Poland,
about today – to bring order within. When 18 tonnes
Lithuania, China, while the ones with up to 60 producers
are being transported in “pockets” to Russia, and sub-
get only ten kilograms of amber?”
sequently to China, order must be brought. We have to
According to customs data, 18 t of raw amber have
supply our producers with raw amber as much as they are
been exported from the region from the beginning of the
capable of processing, instead of selling”, – emphasized
year, while amber output was 500 kg only.
the Governor. Kaliningrad Amber Combine is the only company in
“Places in the list of purchasers are being sold in the
the world engaged in industrial mining of amber.
combine. Raw amber is being sold for those, who does
Amber mining takes place on the coast of the Baltic
not need it, and then to others for higher amounts of
Sea. According to experts’ data, 90% of “sunstone” re-
money”, – stated Mr. Simonov.
serves in the world are located near the Yantarny village.
In turn, Michail Zacepin, the acting director general of
The company was established in 1947. Currently the
the combine, noted that the data presented by producers
combine belongs to the state corporation Rostech. “The supply procedure is going on in accordance with the plan. We restricted the supply in the last month, because a lot of re-sellers have appeared, – said Michail Zacepin. – When we noticed that some businessmen buy
Extraction of Amber Decreased by Almost a Third in a Year in the Kaliningrad Region Report by Federal OfďŹ cial Institution The State Assay Chamber of Russia At the Ministry of Finance of the Russian Federation
his year the law enforcement bodies have notably enhanced the struggle against the illegal extraction of the sun's stone. In result, the level of illegal
amber extraction has reduced almost in 30% in a year. This estimation has been provided by Nikolai Tsukanov,
Governor of the Kaliningrad Region. According to the press service of the regional government, Nicholas Cukanov has also indicated that the measures to decriminalize the industry that have been adopted this year have been effective. The amendments of the KoAP (Code of Administrative Offences) that were introduced in February created the opportunity not only tools of extraction, for example, expensive pumps. The governor indicated that the main event of the year customs clearance of amber. Since July of this year, amber dealers have been released from the time and money consuming obligation to formalise examination and cerproducts from amber and precious metals through the customs. Under the conditions of the experiment, the customs control is carried out on the basis of usual business practice documents.
THE VOLUMES OF ILLEGAL
KALININGRAD REGION RF JEWELLERY REPORT
MIKHAIL ZATSEPIN –
“WE WANT TO RETURN AMBER BRAND TO RUSSIA” Interview of Odilija GUNTORIUTE with Mikhail ZATSEPIN. of the Amber Combine is seriously determined to return amber brand to Russia. Of course, these changes have affected the global market. You will learn about how things are going in the amber industry, what has changed in the enterprise as a result of the change of management, and what the industry should expect in the near future, from the interview with Mikhail Zatsepin, Acting Director General of Kaliningrad Amber Combine. Mikhail Ivanovich, you became the head of Amber Combine in August last year. What changes have occurred in the company in relation with the change of management? The Amber Combine has more than changed its manager, it changed the owner. Ministry of Finance has transferred the company to the State Corporation “Rostekhnologii”. This Russian corporation comprises Mikhail Zatsepin, Acting Director General of Kaliningrad Amber Combine
many unique production units and technologies, a major is a reliable partner of the state for innovative industry
ast summer’s appointment of new management
development. This has become the base point for upgrad-
for Kaliningrad Amber Combine – the world's
ing the unique amber extraction company and, thus, the
only company engaged in the commercial produc-
entire amber industry. First and foremost, the emphasis was the technical re-equipment of the Amber Combine.
throughout the amber industry. Drastic changes have
Scientists of the largest research institutes have explored
redounded upon policy of "sun stone" sales both with
the possibilities of old equipment and developed new
regard to domestic and foreign manufacturers of amber products. Much attention has been paid to the position-
and quality of amber extraction. Soon, we will introduce
ing of the Kaliningrad Region as a centre of global mining
them into practice.
and processing amber industry. The region took on cre-
Do you mean that existing amber production
ating new jobs and new businesses producing jewellery,
technologies of the enterprise impair the quality of
souvenirs, and other articles of “sun stone.” Management
the raw amber extracted?
concentrated, did not have any opportunity to buy raw materials and create amber products. Today, some of
decades passed by, and the equipment was not updat-
them have managed to survive and overcome this stage;
ed. Today, we are faced with the fact that a large part of
others start from scratch. But it became possible now for
amber is crushed during the mining process; many large
the local producers to apply to the plant for purchasing
rocks split and develop cracks. Therefore, a full stone loses
amber and buying raw materials at cost. At the moment,
its initial form. We seek to maximally preserve the origi-
it is one of the key changes in the enterprise. Of course,
nal appearance of amber, so that it, after passing through
the company has much to modernize and improve in this
all stages of production, could fall in hands of a crafts-
area yet, nevertheless, I may safely say that Kaliningrad
man in condition it had rested in the earth. I believe the
producers will be supplied with the raw material on a pri-
latest technology is capable to deal successfully with the
task – to preserve unique samples of amber and to protect
That is, priority is given to local producers? And
the fragile “solar stone” against adverse effects of rough
what about Lithuanian, Polish processers from oth-
er countries who are also engaged in production of jewellery, souvenirs, and other articles using
Today, there are many opinions on the new pol-
icy of the Amber Combine. Tell us how are the company’s activities organised now?
We see the solution of this problem in the establish-
Today, we mainly focus on selling amber to local
ment of joint ventures. Foreign manufacturers found en-
processers. Former long-lasting schemes inhibited the
terprises in the Kaliningrad Region together with partners
Kaliningrad processers from buying the raw amber di-
from Russia; they are provided with the required amount
rectly from the plant. They were forced to use various
of raw materials for production, and start easy operations.
schemes, including illegal, so that to get amber for work.
In other industries, this practice has excellently proved it-
This was quite a paradox: local producers, who lived just participation in the amber industry as well.
in the area, with all the world reserves of the "solar stone"
KALININGRAD REGION RF JEWELLERY REPORT
At that date, when this equipment was introduced, it was considered the advanced technology. However,
KALININGRAD REGION RF JEWELLERY REPORT
What is the interest of foreign producers and how might processers, whose plants are located in the territory of the Kaliningrad Region, react? First of all, foreign processers, starting up their businesses in our territory, would receive raw materials for operations. Another advantage is a tax optimization. Foreign manufacturers will be able to expand the sales area, to sell amber goods in the territory of Russia. Local processers will take advantage of expanding their production units, creating new jobs, sharing experiences. No surprise that joint ventures tend to attract new technologies, additional maincrease in tax revenues in the region and the country itself. What is the purpose of these activities? We realise the fact that amber is considered a heritage not only of the Kaliningrad Region, but the neighbouring Baltic countries, including Poland and Lithuania, as well. Yet, according to experts, about 90 percent of the world's amber is deposited in Russia, namely, in the Kaliningrad Region, and we are proud of it. It so happened that, until recently, while running the world's only company in the commercial production of the “solar stone,” our region failed to develop amber processing practices to the desiraThe Combine's seaside quarry, this is where amber is mined on industrial scale
ble extent. It had various reasons, and let it pass now. Our today’s task – setting up new businesses by local producers in the Kaliningrad Region, attraction of jewellers and artists who would design exclusive jewellery and items of amber, by praising this unique stone. But the Kaliningrad Region is anyway named “the land of amber” today. The bottom line is that we want to return amber brand to Russia. I suppose that being known as “the land of amber” is not enough just because we possess the unique de-
Amber deposits in a layer of blue clay, the depth of "solar stone" depositing in the Amber Combine's seaside quarry is about 50 meters
posit. It should be proved out the way we use these generous gifts of nature. After all, amber is unique indeed. And every visitor to the Kaliningrad Region should satisfy himself with this, admire the beauty, grandeur, and extraordinary properties of amber. Meanwhile, local residents should be proud of living in the “the land of amber”. Should there be any changes in the policy with neighbouring countries who’ve been regarding amber a pride and a national treasure since long ago? I know that amber is called the “Baltic gold” in Lithuania and Poland – it is considered there a holy stone, praised in every way and used to create truly exclusive articles. We
Amber processing at a subsidiary plant JSC “Amber Yuvelirprom”
actually have much to learn from our nearest neighbours. And we largely have to master the route that you have already travelled through. But we hope that this “amber
route” would make us allies rather than rivals. Amber is should build up the work so that no one stands back and everyone is happy. Again, our main focus of supply of raw materials today is Kaliningrad processers, and that is why it was decided at this phase to invite concerned foreign companions to pursue their amber business in Russia, by creating joint ventures in the Kaliningrad Region. In the near future, do you plan any major activities in the Kaliningrad Region associated with the development of amber industry in Russia? Amber Industry Forum “Amber World,” to be held from 11 to 13 July 2014. The exhibitors will be over 200 manufacturers of amber products from Russia, Lithuania, Poland, Ukraine, India, and other countries. Amber Combine is one of the organizers of this exhibition. As part of the “Amber World” Show, our company will hold an auction of large raw amber stones. Also, the Forum will include onstration of machinery for the industry, an auction of “solar” stone jewellery, and more. Everyone is welcomed to the exhibition. We hope that visitors from neighbouring countries will also become active participants of the “Amber World”, as well as it is always a great pleasure for us to regularly attend your exhibitions and conferences dedicated to amber.
KALININGRAD OBLAST (RUSSIAN FEDERATION) Administrative center Kaliningrad Russian Currency Ruble (RUB); 1 EUR – 49.98 RUB Time zone (USZ1 (UTC+03:00) Area 15 100 km 2 Population (2013) 954 978 Government Federal semi-presidential republic Governor Nikolay Tsukanov President Vladimir Putin GDP (PPP) Per capita 15 570 EUR Ethnic groups Latvia 86.4% Russians Lithuania 13.6% Others Largest cities Kaliningrad Oblast Kaliningrad 431 100 (Russian Federation) Chernyakhovsk 51 771 Belarus Sovetsk 42 619 Poland
POLISH JEWELLERY REPORT
AMBERIF 2014, the st
21 International Fair of Amber, Jewellery and Gemstones
Report by Amberif press ofﬁce ore than 450 exhibitors from 12 countries will
“We look forward to receiving AMBERIF trade visitors,
come to AMBERIF 2014, the International Fair
with an expected turnout of about 6000 buyers from
of Amber, Jewellery and Gemstones. In previ-
more than 50 countries, who come to Gdańsk for am-
ous years, the event regularly attracted more than 6,000
ber, unique amber and silver jewellery and also to look
trade visitors from more than 50 countries. As a trade-on-
for original designer jewellery with silver and gemstones.
ly event, AMBERIF is addressed mainly to jewellery stores,
This year, under the Ministry of Economy’s programme to promote Polish jewellery abroad,
wholesalers and art galleries. The products showcased at
we will host a Buyers Study Tour
AMBERIF include: Baltic amber
from four countries: the USA,
jewellery; silver and gold jewellery
Germany, Italy and China,” an-
decorated with amber; silver, gold
nounced Ewa Rachoń. Under the
and platinum jewellery; jewellery
programme, the latest edition of
with gemstones, pearls and dia-
the popular Trend Book 2014+ by
monds. There will be diamonds,
Prof Sławomir Fijałkowski, Gdańsk
gemstones and watches, decora-
Academy of Fine Arts, will be pub-
tive and functional amber items, imported jewellery, hol-
lished by the Polish Chamber of Amber Commerce.
lowware and jewellery packaging. The Designers’ Gallery
Each year, AMBERIF is accompanied by many education
is a perennial favourite; this year it will host more than
and popular science events. For example, it features a se-
70 artists who work in various techniques and materials.
ries of seminars dedicated to subjects that are important to
Organised in partnership with the Goldsmithing Artists’
jewellery and amber experts and enthusiasts. There is the
Association (STFZ), the Gallery is the heart and soul of the
Amber Laboratory, where every AMBERIF customer may not
Polish school of design. As always, jewellery industry mathe type of amber they’ve purchased – all free of charge.
chines and the latest technologies will also be featured. It is no coincidence that the world’s largest amber
The SRJ Association of Jewellery Experts organises a gem-
trade show takes place in Gdańsk: with its Hanse tradi-
mology seminar in partnership with HRD Antwerp. This is
tion, located on the Baltic Sea coast, Gdańsk is known as
where the Gem and Jewelry Institute of Thailand will pre-
the World Capital of Amber.
sent quality standards for rubies and sapphires.
“Not everyone knows that Poland is the leading sup-
AMBERIF exhibitors will, as always, compete for the
plier of silver worldwide,” says AMBERIF Project Director
Minister of Economy’s Grand Prix, by submitting their work
Ewa Rachoń, “and that the Gdańsk region has more than
to the strict evaluation of the Mercurius Gedanensis inter-
600 businesses and jewellery studios which specialise in
national judging panel. For the 17th time, the designer
silver jewellery decorated with amber. It is precisely based
community from all over the world is invited to participate
on the local jewellery handicraft that AMBERIF originated
in the Amberif Design Award. This year’s ADA subject is
Materia Prima. An international jury of renowned artists
We expect more than 450 companies from Poland,
and the valuable prize from the Mayor of Gdańsk have for
Belgium, the Czech Republic, Germany, Greece, Hong
years encouraged participation from both students of the
Kong, Italy, Latvia, Lithuania, Thailand, Turkey and Ukraine.
best jewellery design schools and celebrated designers.
POLISH JEWELLERY REPORT
Gold Silver Time 2013 is open: the ribbon was ceremoniously cut by art historian Irena HUML, president of the SWBJ Polish Association of Jewellery Industry Exhibitors Stefan DUK and singer and Amber Rose honouree Justyna STECZKOWSKA
he Gold Silver Time Jewellery and Watch Trade
their work attracts such remarkable interest. Polish design
Show is a leading event for Poland’s jewellery and
is highly valued worldwide for its fresh ideas, creativity
watch industry. Its organisers have set a consist-
and openness to experiment with materials and textures.
ent goal to consolidate GST’s image and to promote the exhibitors and their products, in contribution to building
have been appreciated by the Polish Ministry of Economy,
a recognisable brand for Polish jewellery both in Poland
which since 2001 has been conferring the Minister of
Economy’s Gold Silver Time Best Product Award. At the
The Warsaw-based show will feature three currently
previous edition of the show, three awards were present-
dominating trends: classics, design and fashion, the last of
ed (instead of the usual one). The winners were: Amber-
which is developing the most dynamically, because follow-
Ring Stanisław Całka, Paragon Dariusz Grzenkowski and
ing fashion trends is the key to business success also in the
Ostrowski Design Jacek Ostrowski. “It is a remarkable
jewellery industry. The classical trend features mainly gold
distinction for our exhibitors. We are very happy that
with diamonds and gemstones and silver with natural and
their contribution to promoting Polish design and tech-
synthetic stones. Designer and original jewellery trends
nology in international markets has been acknowledged
are set by the jewellery makers themselves – that is why
and recognised. I hope that also this year there will be
Growing numbers of visitors from Asia, with interest focused mainly on Baltic amber
Gold Silver Time is also an opportunity for retail customers
MCT International Fair Centre, which together with the PSP Visual Arts Studio organises Gold Silver Time. amber industry at the time of the economic slowdown has come from the Ministry’s 2012–2015 support programme, with funding available for, among others, trade missions of Polish companies abroad and foreign trade visitors coming to Poland, advertising campaigns in the consumer press and on billboards and participation in selected trade exhibitions in Warsaw, Gdańsk, Munich, Hong Kong, Las Vegas, Tucson and Vicenza. The programme is run by the Amber-Treasure of Poland Consortium: the MCT International Fair Centre, the MTG SA Gdańsk International Fair Co., the KIGB Polish Chamber of Amber Commerce and the S&A Company. Under the programme, in 2014 GST will be visited by an international press mission, there will be jewellery shows from the participating companies and the number of amber sector exhibitors will increase. Today, GST is perceived as a tried and true form of business communication for the jewellery and watch industry. Even in these economically challenging times, the event has not experienced any visible drop in the exhibitor or visitor attendance, which is proof of its stable market standing. “We have noticed that businesses are coping by responding quicker and more effectively to its needs. And this gives us hope for the coming edition to be at least as good as the previous one. All the more eagerly we invite global jewelery and watchmaking industry to the Gold Silver Time – fair that is a proven method of business communication”, says Rafał Galimski. In 2014, as in the preceding year, the organisers expect about 300 exhibitors and ca. 6000 visitors.
The interest in the GST Show remains as great as ever
POLISH JEWELLERY REPORT
A jewellery show developed by the Amber. Treasure of Poland Consortium. Image: Jewellery from Marcin Zaremski.
three winners because the line of deserving companies is really long”, explains Rafał Galimski, president of the
POLISH JEWELLERY REPORT
Due to THE FASCINATION with Amber... By Anna SADO Editor of the Amber Portal www.amber.com.pl
he Amber Museum, which was opened last sum-
his adventure with amber as a jeweller – the knowledge of
mer, alongside with the Boruni Galleries and the
the craft helps to evaluate not only the aesthetic and inno-
Amber Portal amber.com.pl have formed “the am-
vative value of jewellery, but also the quality of its execu-
ber empire” of Tomasz Mikołajczyk – Mikołajczyki Amber.
tion. He is famous within the industry for his attentive eye
Its aim is to strengthen the Boruni brand through promot-
and for being partial to the works by renowned designers
ing natural amber and products decorated with it. The
– though he buys with an intention to resell the products,
achievements in that sphere are truly impressive. “I have been fascinated with amber for a long time and I wish to show others what has allured me in this
consists of many unique works of renowned Polish art-
stone” – says Tomasz Mikołajczyk who has been running
ists such as Paulina Binek, Jacek Baron, Jacek Sumeradzki,
the chain of Boruni galleries for over 20 years. He started
Janusz Wosik, Mariusz Gliwiński, Elżbieta and Marek Pawłowski, or Magdalena and Tomasz Stajczak. The prod-
Tomasz Mik Ołajczyk
ucts are extraordinary due to the uniqueness of the amber blocks and inimitable form of the frames. The were created over the last two decades, and today they are still enchanting with their timeless beauty and patinated amber. Some of the products from the collection have found their appropriate place at the Amber Museum in Cracow, a private enterprise of Tomasz Mikołajczyk, where they are a contemporary benchmark for the currently presented exhibition “Amber – Its Beauty and History”. The exhibition was prepared by the Museum of the Earth by the Polish Academy of Sciences in Warsaw. However, the most beautiful of the most beautiful works – both in terms of highest level of artistic craft and the most fascinating natural forms – have been included in the Collection Supernatural and they are presented at the Boruni Gallery, belonging to the Museum. The Boruni Galleries have always stood thanks to their carefully selected amber product range: jewellery, sculptures, or usable objects. Now the time has come to further
I wish TO SHOW OTHERS what has allured me in this stone
of galleries, at the European scale, where the most beauti-
POLISH JEWELLERY REPORT
Boruni Gallery purpose of the museum is to promote the natural beauty of amber and what is widely understood, by education. The exhibition “Amber – Its Beauty and History” provides a lot of information about amber creation, the history of its mining and treatment up until to the present day, and at the Amber Laboratory one can check the authenticity of the stone. “Amber is currently so highly valued and
authenticity any more, there's a need for advanced technology and we have it” – explains Tomasz Mikołajczyk. designed and registered hologram with a number. Such est end of the price range offered at the Boruni Gallery. The purchase of products of other price ranges at the Boruni Gallery are also safe as all the products have been examined before. The aim of what is widely understood by education is also implemented by the Amber Portal amber.com. pl which also belongs to the Mikołajczyki Amber. It has been so effective that in March 2010 the owner, Tomasz Mikołajczyk and the Editor in Chief Anna Sado have been
A horse by Jacek Sumeradzki
awarded the Medals of the President of the City of Gdańsk for their contribution in promoting amber, the amber in-
ful, individual products made of natural Baltic amber will
dustry and Gdańsk – the World Capital of Amber. The
be offered” – declares the owner of galleries. The inspira-
International Amber Association awarded the title of the
tion to build a new image of the galleries was primarily
Amber Personality of the Year 2010 to the Editor in Chief
observing the market, which is receptive to unique prod-
Anna Sado, and a Crystal Medal to Tomasz Mikołajczyk,
ucts in the premium sector.
for many years of his contribution to promoting amber in
The image of the Boruni Galleries, as a unique place is
2011, and the prestigious title of the Amber Personality of
meant to be also highlighted by the Amber Museum. The
the Year 2012.
Lady with an Ermine by Bogumiła & Marian k elar
A mechanical bracelet by Jacek Baron
“The amber empire” is constantly developing and at the same time it contributes to promoting amber and amber art as well as showing the new directions of development in the sector and in the amber trade.
THE AMBER MUSEUM 2, Św. Jana Street 31–018 Kraków tel.: +48 513 511 512, 601 824 646 open every day from 10 am to 8 pm admission free
REPUBLIC OF POLAND EU, NATO, Hallmarking Convention Capital Warsaw Polish Currency Złoty (PLN); 1 EUR – 4.1885 PLN Time zone CET (UTC+1) – Summer (DST) CEST (UTC+2) Area – 312 685 km 2 Population (2012) 38 273 582 Government Parliamentary republic President Bronisław Komorowski Latvia Prime Minister Donald Tusk GDP (PPP) Per capita (2012) 16 527 EUR Lithuania Ethnic groups Kaliningrad 91.6% Poles Region 8.4% others Belarus Largest cities Warsaw 1 716 855 Poland Krakov 755 546 Lodz 739 832 Ukraine
POLISH JEWELLERY REPORT
My aim is TO CREATE A UNIQUE CHAIN OF GALLERIES, at the European scale, where the most beautiful, individual products made of NATURAL BALTIC AMBER will be offered
LITHUANIAN JEWELLERY REPORT
AMBER TRIP IS ENTERING THE SECOND DECADE
In mid-March, like every year, the “Amber Trip” – the largest international jewellery show in the Baltic countries – is opening. This year, the decade-years-old show is held for the 11th time. “We have achieved our goals – Vilnius has become the capital of the Baltic jewellery. We have created our own history and traditions, yet, we did not stop there – we treat the new decade like a new page and even more challenging start: we’ll seek to further expand, to improve in order to place the show organization to a higher level both in terms of quality of products and its presentation” says the head of the show organizing company “Amber Trip” Giedrius Gun TOr IuS.
Interview of Virginija ZYGIENE with Giedrius GUNTORIUS This
Jewellery Show “Amber Trip” is taking place the 11th time. What goals have You set for the new decade? The show has been living for as much as 11 years; it has undergone more than one crisis and, still, has survived; therefore, both local and foreign markets, obviously, need it. I am happy that the show's organizers have CEO of “Amber Trip” Giedrius Guntorius: “Vilnius became the capital of the Baltic region jewellery, ahead of cities such as Tallinn, Riga, or Kaliningrad”
achieved their main objectives – to make amber popular and to bring professional articles of jewellery from around the world to the event. Vilnius became the capital of the
show that is also a meaningful estimate of the show.
Baltic region jewellery, ahead of cities such as Tallinn,
We have created our own history and traditions, yet,
Riga, or Kaliningrad. Joint efforts of everyone around (I mean market sellers
we did not stop there – we treat the new decade like a
and buyers) to hold the show make its organisation easy.
new page and even more challenging start: we’ll seek to further expand, to improve in order to place the show
needs an organizer (in this case – the company “Amber
organization to a higher level both in terms of quality of
Trip”) for collecting all information and considering the
products and its presentation. How does “Amber Trip” Show stand out among
needs of all participants. However, it is safe to say that
other jewellery exhibitions?
real organizers of the show are market players themselves since the state allocates no funds on the show organisa-
jewellery exhibition in the Baltic States, involving repre-
tion. Vilnius City Municipality is the annual sponsor of the
As I’ve already mentioned, during the show, representatives from various countries will share their insights
Show attracts companies from Poland, Russia, Lithuania,
about the jewellery business trends around the world.
Latvia, Estonia, Turkey, and other countries. Among the
Representatives of Kaliningrad Amber Combine will also
exhibitors, there are about 60 pct of amber businesses,
share their forecasts what to expect in the raw amber
about 40 pct of professional Baltic jewellers, and other
market. At the “Amber Trip,” there will be presented the lat-
specialists of this area from around the world, who are
est technology and modern machinery. The Show is also
going to present their articles in Lithuania. The show is also attended by representatives of large
proud to present you international jewellery art contest
companies from various countries. For example, we have
“5D,” which will involve jewellers from Lithuania, Latvia,
guests from China, who are currently buying up any-
Estonia, Finland, the Netherlands, Poland, Germany, and other countries. In addition, it became a beautiful tradition to show remarkable or historical articles of jewellery.
America, where amber demand is rising again, and, of course, from Europe. Every day, the exhibition is visited
Last year, on anniversary, we had 10 articles; this year,
by over 200 major customers (so-called VIP) from Japan,
there will be 11 of them presented. How has “Amber Trip” Show changed during the
America, China, the Arab world – they come here to make
last 10 years?
transactions for the whole year ahead. “Amber Trip” Show, compared with worldwide jewellery exhibitions, is quite small, so, we seek to invite the
Town Hall – now, the show is arranged in “Radisson Blue
Hotel”. During all these years, the show has experienced both “growing” and “shrinking”: during the very crisis (in
A particularly important fact is that “Amber Trip” is
2009–2010), it was greatly reduced; now, it reached the thus, suggesting trends for the amber and jewellery mar-
they should expect in this market. Situation in the amber
number of exhibitor stands has increased or how many
and jewellery market remains complicated.
square meters the exhibition space has increased per dec-
Our estimates should not be limited to how much the
Please tell us more about this year's show.
ade. However, we can really be proud of the fact that,
We are very excited that “Amber Trip” Show, which
every year, amber and jewellery businesses have the op-
portunity to show their works in Vilnius and that not every
augurated by the new Director General of Kaliningrad
industry holds its own exhibition in this region. After all,
Amber Combine (“Kaliningradskiy Yantarny Kombinat“), the world each month, and each company in this business
Michail Zacepin. The preliminary agreement with this fac-
must choose a strategy in which region it wants to operate. Thus, we can rightly be proud that major companies
Kaliningrad Region of Russia as well, thus, enabling them to introduce Europe, and in future – the rest of the world
motivation to work in the Baltic region.
– to their products.
LITHUANIAN JEWELLERY REPORT
sentatives of the global jewellery market who work both with amber and other forms of jewellery. “Amber Trip”
LITHUANIAN JEWELLERY REPORT
After 20 years of experience in the amber jewellery business ALEKSAS MAZUKNA decided to bring some fresh air “Family, amber roots, traditions, and the Baltic
of the company means my personal direct responsibility
Sea – the main reasons, why I have decided
for the success and fairness of the business created by me.
to move to live and work in Palanga”, – said
I have always wanted to live and work in Palanga, be-
Aleksas Mazukna, entering the amber jewellery
cause of amber traditions, ‘bohemia’ and ‘philosophy’. Of
market with the company Amber Alex.
course, amber ‘philosophy’ in commercial aspect is not as much developed here as in other places, but amber pro-
Interview of Virginija ZYGIENE with Aleksas MAZUKNA
cessing traditions in its essence live in Palanga. I really like the Baltic Sea. There is no other place in Lithuania, where you can have a half-hour walking on the
What inspired you to renew – to form a new
seaside during your lunch break. I wanted such walking on
team of amber specialists and enter the market un-
the beach to become an everyday instead of a holiday rou-
der the new name?
tine. Moving to Palanga means a comeback to family roots
As a result of disagreement on the approaches to the
and traditions: even three previous generations of my
team, work and company development, I sold the share-
spouse lived in Palanga and the majority of them has been
holding of the company Amber by Mazukna. I established
working with amber up to the present day. Therefore,
the company Amber Alex in Palanga,
our decision was not a coincidental
decision, it was supported by family members and relatives.
sions and work. Amber specialists, who had been working in my for-
On the other hand, the amber
mer company for many years, con-
market in Palanga is the place where
tinue to work in the team with new
amber traditions are alive. Palanga is
probably the only place all over the world, where the market is open
The name of the company – Amber Alex
every Saturday, unfortunately we do
activity. My name used in the name
not appreciate it. -
Alesas Mazukna with his client
ber sellers and manufacturers here;
Japanese company “Kohaku Koubou” president Kaoru Tagawa
and amber is the essence of their lives as well as mine.
ticipated in the international jewellery exhibition in Japan IJT 2014 (International Jewellery Tokyo 2014). We have al-
for the following 5 years?
ready been taking part in this exhibition for 15 years, but
The production facilities of the new manufactory will We met our business partners, presented the new name
cover 1.5 thousand sq. m., the construction and installa-
and the team of the company, and we found new partners at the exhibition.
to our plan, up to 100 workplaces will be created in the
How many exhibitions do you visit in a year?
manufactory Amber Alex. I am a specialist. So I will continue working in the same
We visit about ten exhibitions in a year. The exhibi-
market – I will be doing what I have been doing before.
tions are held in Japan, China, USA, Poland, and there are
Our aim is to take a strong position in the market, to be
new markets we are interested in. Amber Trip is a perfect exhibition, featuring a par-
visible and offer new ideas to our customers, and exhibit
ticularly pleasant environment, where family cosiness is
the unique beauty of amber to them. Will you continue working on the same classical
felt. These are the things, similar to the ones that have
artworks, you have been selling before? Or you will
attracted me to move to Palanga. After all, large exhibi-
renew the assortment?
tions are loosing their touch. We simply do not manage to participate everywhere due to a lack of time.
We will be further producing classical jewellery, i.e. we will not change the products we have been selling up
What is your place in amber jewellery business?
to the present day. But we will also start producing art-
What would the alternative work be if not working
works of new design, which, in our opinion, will be at-
with amber? I have never cogitated such issue. Other people, but
tractive to our customers. The customers buy our amber
not me, should tell about me. Importantly, people believe
jewellery due to the exclusive quality and price.
in me – in my works, words, actions and vision. I particu-
Classics will always persist, it never goes out of fash-
larly appreciate their support. Sometimes they even help lack of amber in the market, customers particularly assess I will continue working with amber. It is a lifestyle.
high quality and price of classical jewellery artworks. What are the countries, you have already found
Each amber stone is different, each customer and each
business partners in? Does the renewal promote
artwork are different as well. There is no monotony in
looking for new customers abroad?
this work, there is nothing exhausting, the life and work
The major partners of our business are in Japan, China,
are diverse and frisky. In addition, I have to travel much
America, and the European Union member countries. We
around the world, I do not have time for stopping. The
will continue working with current partners, and will be
only way for me is to go forward! Thank you for the conversation and wish you
looking for the new ones in other countries.
This year, on the 22–25 of January Amber Alex par-
Aleksas Mazukna in International Jewellery Tokyo (IJT) 2014
LITHUANIAN JEWELLERY REPORT
How many workers are working in your new manufactory? What are your plans and expectations
LITHUANIAN JEWELLERY REPORT
Report by Virginija PAVALKIENE Head of Legal – Inspection Division of Lithuanian Assay Ofﬁce
Jewellery BUSINESS TRENDS in Lithuania How long does hallmarking take in Lithuania?
public body) authorised to perform the supervision
Hallmarking of 1–10 units takes up to 1 hour.
of precious metals and gemstones in Lithuania.
Hallmarking 10,000 or more units takes up to several days. In each case the hallmarking time (period) is dis-
has never been a budgetary institution, therefore it does
cussed and agreed with the customer. The demand of
not receive any state budget appropriations and “lives”
services for higher value and therefore more expensive
on the revenue generated for provided services of assay
jewellery products has increased by 19%.
and jewel analysis.
How important is jewellery marking to Lithuanian Hallmarking prices
Hallmarking price of 1 gram of gold.
In Lithuania the consumers’ interest in jewellery mark-
LTL 2.15 per piece + 0.9 Lt per gram = total LTL 3.05 stamped on the product, what it must be stamped by,
(EUR 0.88). If 1000 or more pieces of imported items of the same
what hallmark guarantees the purity of the product, etc.
hallmark are submitted for hallmarking, you get a 10%
Most buyers are aware and understand that such num-
bers as “585” on the product does not prove that the
Average prices (LTL) per 1 (one) gram for golden items do not certify the purity.
of 585 hallmark and silver items of 925 hallmark in the Lithuanian retail market in 2010-2013 are given below
A great achievement is that customers are interested
(EUR 1 = LTL 3.4528). (See statistics in Figure 1 and Figure 2).
in and inquire if the products are tested by Lithuanian
20 18 16
4 2 0
business entity itself and registration or re-registration of
the product is actually made of gold. Knowing if a pur-
chased piece of jewellery is actually made of gold or silver, Šiauliai and Druskininkai, or to email them.
if it is worth buying and paying the purchase price, etc., is important to consumers. Consumers are also encouraged
Since 2012 all the business entities, including business
to take interest in the meaning of hallmarks stamped on
entities engaged in the activities with precious metals,
products by a simple folk proverb “all that glisters is not
are technically enabled to contact all state institutions us-
ing “one-stop-shop” in the document submission system www.verslovartai.lt. However, as practice shows in 2012
About more favourable and facilitated business
and 2013 entrepreneurs did not actively use the system.
plications via the said system. Entrepreneurs should be -
actually feel the alleviation of the administrative burden
courage all entrepreneurs to use the system, to saving
reduced by legislative amendments in 2012.
time and money. We are pleased to know that the start
Basically legal amendments adopted in 2012 facilitat-
has been made in this area, and hope that our customers activities with precious metals by reducing the administra-
will be more interested in technical innovations enabling
tive burden for them: the compulsory registration of all
to handle all the business related to precious metals and
business entities engaged in the activities with precious
gemstones at customer workplaces, and will easily adapt
methods of communication with customers, and in 2013 continued the project “The transfer of administrative procedures related to permits issued by state and municipal
until the start of operations.
institutions and agencies to the electronic medium” ini-
No additional documentation needs to be provided to
tiated in 2012 in partnership with the Public Institution “Versli Lietuva”. The project intends to make more serverify the data with the help of IT technologies, by directly
environment. The end of the project was planned in the
contacting other Government agencies or using publicly
middle of 2013, however due to a high volume of project
available data of registers managed by other institutions,
works to engage all the Government institutions into the
without loading business entities with administrative bur-
overall system, the project completion is planned this year.
check the applicant’s business license with State Tax
been publishing the list of all newly registered or dereg-
Inspectorate’s database, etc.
istered business entities in the publicly available register
In 2013 the registration rules for business entities
of permits http://www.verslovartai.lt/lt/leidimu-registras.
engaged in the activities with precious metals and gem-
The disclosure and availability of such information ena-
stones were repeatedly revised. The amendments legal-
bles ordinary consumers, i.e., jewellery buyers, to learn
ized the opportunity for business entities to submit their
more about sellers of jewellery products and the legality
applications for registration with the register of Lithuanian
of their activities, and to “inspect” the legitimacy of business partner activities.
written “paper” application form had been required. So far Lithuanian entrepreneurs are taking little ad-
to the requirements of the Declaration on the First Year
vantage of the opportunity to submit documents to
of Business signed in 2011. The Declaration was signed
As earlier, business entities may submit all their ap-
business by providing methodological assistance and even
plication forms remain preferable.
LITHUANIAN JEWELLERY REPORT
plications, including applications for registration of a state control hallmark certifying and guaranteeing that
LITHUANIAN JEWELLERY REPORT
The number of sole proprietorships in 2013 compared restrictions, etc.) for committed violations. Instead, a time
to 2010 has not changed much, i.e., from 238 in 2010 to
limit was imposed to remove violations. The Declaration
248 by the end of 2013. The number of small entrepreneurs working with busi-
does not apply, if an entity fails to remove violations within an established time limit or commits new violations. In
by 137, i.e., from 258 to 395 during the period from 31
this case it is subject to sanctions prescribed by law.
December 2010 to 31 December 2013.
On business trends
After the Law on Small Partnerships of the Republic of
From 31 December 2010 to 31 December 2013 regis-
Lithuania has entered into force on 1 September 2012, 3
tered business entities increased by 30%, i.e., from 931 (in
small partnerships were registered by 31 December 2012.
2010) to 1,342 (in 2013).
16 more partnerships were registered in 2013.
Dynamics of the number of business entities engaged in the activities with precious metals and gemstones in 2010-2013* (units)
Dynamics of the number of business entities engaged in the activities with precious metals and gemstones in 2010-2013* according to status (units)
Registered business entities in total
Newly registered business entities Deregistered business entities
Total number of registered business entities Newly registered business entities Deregistered business entities
* Data as of 31 December of a calendar year
Joint-stock companies and/or limited liability compa-
Data as of 31 December of a calendar year;
Natural persons with a business licence or an individual activ
nies prevail among business entities engaged in the activi-
Small partnership (since 2012.09.01);
ties with precious metals.
***** General partnership.
For example, in 2010 410 business entities were registered, meanwhile at the end of 2013 654 business entities
As in previous years, in 2013 the main activity of eco-
nomic entities in the sector remained to be retail and
Number of business entities engaged in the activities with precious metals and gemstones in * 2010-2013 according to the type of activity (units)
The number of companies, which have declared this activity has grown from 834 to 1,130 since 31 December 2010 to 31 December 2013, respectively. During 2013 the number of such economic entities increased by 114.
The number of pawnshops accepting precious metals, precious stones, and their products as collateral for loans,
which grew during the economic crisis, continued to grow
in 2013 from 195 economic entities providing pawn services in 2010, to 279 at the end of 2013. 39 new economic
entities began providing pawn services in 2013. 226
449 economic entities with 62 new economic entities among them were entitled to engage in buying and sell-
ing precious metals, precious stones, their products and
scrap in 2013. Since 2010 the number of the above economic entities has increased almost 1.5 times â€“ from 299
Trading in gold investment
(in 2010) to 449 (in 2013).
During the period from 31 December 2010 to 31 December 2013 the number of jewellers producing pre-
2010** 2011** 2012** 2013**
cious metal and precious stone products has increased,
respectively, from 256 to 356. At the end of 2013 this
number included 175 legal entities and 181 natural per-
sons. In 2013 the precious metal production activities
were declared by 48 economic entities.
Trading in gold investment
In recent years the number of investment gold traders has increased from 26 economic entities in 2010 to 60 economic entities at the end of 2013. 38 economic
entities declared their trade in investment gold at the end
** Data as of 31 December of a calendar year
The same business entity may be engaged in several activities
of 2012. Moreover, e-commerce in precious metals and gems
The above statistics shows that the market of precious
has started, and it is gaining increasing popularity. 10 eco-
metals and gemstones is growing, that more favourable
nomic entities were legitimately engaged in these activi-
conditions are provided to business entities engaged in
ties at the end of 2010.
these activities, and that the administrative burden is re-
As of 31 December 2012, 24 economic entities de-
duced thus diminishing the shadow economy. The con-
clared this activity and by 31 December 2013 this activity
sumersâ€™ interests are protected. It is the most important
was legalised by 68 economic entities.
LITHUANIAN JEWELLERY REPORT
wholesale trade (distribution) in precious metal products.
Dzintars mūsdienu laikmetīgajās mākslas rotās
Au GuST Capital
The fashion designers – Mārīte Mastiņa and Rolands
“r īga 2014” framework “Amber Vein” , Art
still being students at Riga Applied Art College. Since
then, they have participated and received awards in vari-
contemporary jewellery exhibition “AMBEr In
ous international fashion and arts festivals, including the
COn TEMPOr Ary Ar T JEWEll Ery ”.
International Fashion and Photography Festival in Hyeres
Press release by Art gallery PUTTI
(France). (www.mareunrols.com and http://putti.lv/
Twenty artists take part in the exhibition: Andris Lauders (Latvia), Claudia Steiner (Austria), Eva Tesarik (Austria), Eve he core idea of the exhibition is to demonstrate
Margus-Villems (Estonia), Fanni Vékony (Hungary), Gigi
the possible range of application of amber in the
Mariani (Italy), Guntis Lauders (Latvia), Heidemarie Herb
contemporary art jewellery created by profes-
(Italy), Helfried Kodré (Austria), Jānis Vilks (Latvia), Jurgita
sional jewellers. This area of interest is largely based on
Erminaitė-Šimkuvienė (Lithuania), Maria Cristina Bellucci
(Italy), Māris Auniņš (Latvia), Māris Šustiņš (Latvia), Nataša Grandovec (Slovenia), Nikolai Balabin (Russia), Pawel Kaczynski (Poland), Sara Gackowska (Poland), Valdis Brože
„Amber Road” as the thematic background is not acci-
(Latvia) and Viktoria Münzker (Austria). centuries AD as an exchange route of goods between the
Art Gallery Putti is located in Riga and has been open
Baltic Sea region and Roman Empire. The route started in
since 2000. Originally, the gallery was founded to promote
the eastern coastal area of the Baltic Sea, which at that
Latvian jewellery artists and their works of art. However,
time was inhabited by the Prussians and Curonians. It con-
gaining local and international recognition allowed the gal-
tinued down the Visla up to the city of Karnunta (cur-
lery to expand its mission and now exhibitions also include
rently in Hungary) and further to the coast of the Adriatic
the works of outstanding foreign jewellery artists. The
Sea and the Apennine peninsula, providing Rome with the
artists who exhibit their work in Art Gallery “Putti” work
precious and exclusive material. Many Roman coins and
using different techniques, creating unique pieces of jew-
antiquities found in the graveyards in the Baltic countries
ellery, which represent both contemporary and conceptual
is perceived as the evidence of this trade route together
jewelery styles. Each year the gallery organizes four the-
with testimonies in the writings of Roman Empire era.
matic or personal exhibitions, which can be viewed at the
Thus not only will Latvian and Italian jewellers partici-
same time as the permanent exhibiton, consisting mainly
pate in the exhibition but also artists from countries that
of Latvian jewellery and fashion designers. The pieces of
Amber Road passed through (Russia, Estonia, Lithuania,
art exhibited in the gallery are available for purchase.
Poland, Austria, Slovenia and Hungary). This exhibition will not only link the Amber Road geographically, but
Further information on
also historically by connecting the ancient times with the
exhibitions and galleries:
present, the past with the future and demonstrating the
spectacular miracle of amber jewellery creation.
Diāna Jaunzeme–Meistere: + 371 26524361 (GSM)
The stage of the exhibition is set by an internation-
ally renowned fashion designer brand “MAREUNROL'S”.
LATVIAN JEWELLERY REPORT
AMBER IN CONTEMPORARY ART JEWELLERY
ESTONIAN JEWELLERY REPORT
WE CHOSE ESTONIA,
because it has good connection with
SCANDINAVIAN countries, BALTIC REGION and the rest of EUROPE
Who makes design for your jewellery?
To represent yourself in Baltic region you
I bring the ideas to my designers, after they draw and choose Estonia?
make the jewellery, so I could say that it is our teamwork.
When our company developed, people started to know
I also always appreciate when somebody gives new ideas
us and to buy our brand goods; we decided to expand
that we can discuss together. Where is your jewellery manufactured?
Estonia, because it has good connection with Scandinavian
The jewellery is manufactured in many countries like
countries, Baltic region and the rest of Europe.
Italy, other European countries and also Asia. It depends
To which exhibitions in Baltic region do you
from materials that are used in jewellery. Sometimes for
go to? Which one is the best?
making one piece of jewellery we need to bring materials
We participated in many countries like Poland, Finland,
from different countries. All our effort and soul is put to
and Germany etc.
prepare our goods, which make them adorable and gor-
In the Baltic region we have been in the â€œAmber Tripâ€?
geous. Our buyer can always be sure that all our goods
exhibition in Vilnius. Concerning the amount of compa-
are of the highest quality. Why did you establish company in England?
nies exhibiting, it is a small exhibition. In spite of it, we
We decided to establish our company in England, because one of our owners lives in there. England is a big
because you meet people and customers from many dif-
country with a developed jewellery market, so the deci-
ferent countries. you are creating your own brand name. Why
sion came itself.
In spite of the high quality of our goods our prices
are affordable for everybody. The price range is from 10 EUR–150 EUR.
nies. Is your brand name getting more popular? We do not compete with other brand companies; we own niche in the jewellery market. The main difference
REPUBLIC OF ESTONIA
from the other brand companies is that all our goods are made from rhodium plated silver with natural stones like
EU, NATO Capital Tallinn
amethyst, topaz, different colour of quartz, fresh water
Estonian Currency Euro (EUR) Time zone EET (UTC+2) – Summer (DST) EEST (UTC+3) Area – 45 227 km 2 Population (2013) 1 286 540 Government Parliamentary republic President Toomas Hendrik Ilve Prime Minister Andrus Ansip GDP (PPP) Per capita (2012) 17 117 EUR Ethnic groups 69.0% Estonians, 31.0 % others Estonia Largest cities Tallinn 416 144 Latvia Tartu 101 169 Narva 65 886
pearl etc. Of course it is not easy, but time is passing and our brand is becoming more and more known and popular. Much effort is put to introduce our brand to other people and other companies. So far, where do you receive the most demand in Baltic region? The most demand in Baltic region we receive in Latvia and Estonia. What do you think of r ussian market? Russia is a big country with a large jewellery market with its own manufacturers of jewellery. To be involved in Russian jewellery market would open plenty of opportuni-
its custom laws and duties. What is the price range of your products per
ESTONIAN JEWELLERY REPORT
did you make such decision? After all, it is dif-
GERMAN JEWELLERY REPORT
ous years has proved successful, and this year Sri Lanka
A GOLDEN JUBILEE THAT LIVES UP TO ITS NAME
was well-represented as another Gemstone Nation at
Next to Gemworld Munich was the Munich Show –
Gemworld Munich. Together with the Brazilian Pavilion
Mineralientage München, under whose umbrella three
and the International Colored Gemstone Association (ICA
further fair worlds opened their doors. Anyone with
) Pavilion, more than 20 dealers offering the best qual-
the time to look around was rewarded with some very
ity raw materials from the most coveted regions of the
interesting special exhibitions and fascinating natural re-
world were gathered together in the tightest of spaces.
sources from areas which are devoted primarily to private
The Gemworld Pavilion – the nucleus of the event – also
audiences. As it was the 50th anniversary of the overall
The concept of country pavilions launched in previ-
unveiled a new look this year and was rightly the centre of
event, the overarching theme for the special exhibitions
attention, both visually and on account of the illustrious
was “GOLD”. In the minerals exhibition, the organisers
names of the companies represented within.
set up a treasure chest for the occasion, which provoked wide eyes and enthusiasm in more than just amateur mineralogists. About 350 gold bars and nuggets from international museums and private collections, some of them world-famous, went on display behind thick bulletproof glass. In addition, Elvis Presley's gold phone and biathlete Magdalena Neuner's gold medals served as examples of “Gold of Mankind”. The golden jubilee was celebrated on Friday evening in a specially constructed beer tent with typical Bavarian dishes and a rousing Oktoberfest band. If you were to use Gemworld Munich as the last mood evaluator of the autumn period, then it would appear that the currently cloudy outlook in the industry is showing signs of brightening up and helping many exhibitors to
GEMSTONES FROM OUTER SPACE
healthier year-end statements. In any case, thanks to its
The special exhibition in Hall B6, “Pallavine – A Glint
layout – and not just the beautiful autumn weather – this
from Space” proved to be a real visitor magnet. Under
extraordinary event left visitors with a positive overall im-
the motto “small is beautiful”, the precious contents of a
pression. The next Gemworld Munich will take place on
meteorite found in Indonesia were displayed in four glass
the grounds of the Münchner Messe from 24th to 26th
cases. This meteorite is the only specimen found so far
Thanks to their spectacular history, these gemstones from the olivine family engendered a huge amount of fascination and ensured amazement throughout the entire duration of the fair.
GERMAN JEWELLERY REPORT
JEWELLERY & GEM Fair Europe meets the industry’s demands 99 already booked Report by Jewellery & Gem Fair Europe Press Ofﬁce
Freiburg, Germany – Leading representatives of the international jewellery and gemstone industry has expressed the need for an appropriate and commercially focused jewellery sourcing platform in Europe. With the Jewellery & Gem Fair Europe, UBM has responded by providing such a platform, at the cross roads of the industry’s most important hubs, such as Antwerp, Idar-Oberstein, Pforzheim, or in Switzerland and northern Italy. UBM, one of the world’s leading organisers of jewellery fairs will launch the highly anticipated Jewellery & Gem Fair Europe on 1–4 April 2014 at Messe Freiburg. Antonio Jakubowski, CEO of Vilma GmbH comments “We are expecting the jewellery & Gem Fair Europe to create a shining platform for international and European buyers, sellers and manufacturers. So far this form of framework has been absent in the industry, except on a highly illustrious level and not for the broader jewellery market at an international level. The positioning as the exhibitors from luxury and mid-level jewellery, was developed to meet these industry’s vital demands”. “To date, 400+ exhibitors, from 25 countries and re-
GERMAN JEWELLERY REPORT
Celine Lau, Director of Jewellery Fairs, UBM Asia. Among the exhibitors are names such as Richard Hans Becker GmbH & Co KG, Friedrich Binder, Dily's Collection, Emil Weis KG, Herbert Giloy & Söhne GmbH & Co KG, Gustav O Hahn OHG, Karp Jewellery Mfg HK Ltd., Ph cock sons, Pranda Jewelry Public Co Ltd, RMC Gems HK Co. Ltd., Thien Po Ltd, plus many more. “Jewellery & Gem Fair Europe is an important platform for sourcing jewellery, combining the entire industry, under one roof, while also learning industry knowledge and current trends”, praises Giloy, Herbert & Soehne GmbH & Co. KG, “the concept for the exhibition’s location
from around the globe are registered. The Hong Kong
was to establish the event in the three-country triangle
Jewellery & Gem Fair, which took place in September 2013,
of Germany, bordering France and Switzerland. Europe,
is the world's leading trade fair with over 3,500 exhibitors
and especially Germany, has exceptionally high appeal for
and around 5,2000 visitors. The regular trade fair taking
exhibitors from all over the world, due to its sustained
place in June is Asia's biggest international mid-year trade
economic power. Germany and this entire region are also
fair in the jewellery industry. Furthermore, UBM Asia or-
internationally renowned for quality of the jewellery pro-
ganises jewellery trade fairs in Shenzhen, Guangzhou and
duced, quality and innovations of designs and the distin-
Shanghai in China; Chennai, Delhi, Hyderabad, Kolkata
und Mumbai in India; Japan; Istanbul in Turkey; Singapore; Taiwan; Freiburg in Germany and Moscow as well as St
Michael Thiel, Head of Sales at Giloy, Herbert & Sons
Petersburg in Russia.
explains “The training and skill development in Germany and surrounding regions is extremely high, making design,
product development and manufacturing in this region internationally recognised. In addition to this, the technical becoming increasingly important. All of these things have
FEDERAL REPUBLIC OF GERMANY
a direct impact on trends, such as sustainability, and making quality jewellery in Germany and Europe unmistakeable. For so long the label ‘Made in Europe’ or ‘Made in
EU, NATO Capital Berlin
Germany’ has been held with very high esteem”. “With Jewellery and Gem Fair Europe, held at Messe
German Currency Euro (EUR) Time zone CET (UTC+1) – Summer (DST) CEST (UTC+2) Area – 357 021 km 2 Population (2012) 81 305 856 Government Federal parliamentary constitutional republic President Joachim Gauck Chancellor Angela Merkel GDP (PPP) Per capita 28 873 EUR Ethnic groups 91.5% German Germany 8.5% others Largest cities Berlin 3471 756 Czech Republic Hamburg 1 786 448 Bavaria 1 353 186 France
Freiburg, our hope is to establish a high quality and valuable
sourcing platform alongside the experiences of the world renowned Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair”, explains Celine Lau,”Freiburg is the ideal location for this show, with its high ease of transport to Freiburg and the fair grounds, and also being located at the heart of Europe”. About the organiser UBM Asia, organiser of highly professional, international, global jewellery trade fairs creates possibilities for business in the jewellery industry throughout the world. More than 100,000 commercial agents visit the UBM Asia
jewellery trade fairs, where more than 9,500 exhibitors
SWEDISH JEWELLERY REPORT
Jewellery Prize 2013 Sanna Svedestedt & Karin Roy Andersson / Diagonal email@example.com www.svede.se | www.karin-roy.se
Karin Roy Andersson
or already 3 years Sanna Svedestedt and Karin Roy Andersson announce winners of “The Nobel Jewellery Prize” in their blog “Diagonal”. Check it
on http://klimt02.net/ They created their own award to spread the word of their talented colleagues. The Baltic Jewellery News was very exited about this unique idea and asked authors to share it with our readers. On December 10th the annual banquet celebrating the Nobel Prize winners of 2013 was held in Stockholm.
This can only mean one thing – it is high time for us to announce the Nobel Jewellery Prizes 2013.
PHYSICS Looking at the work of Frieda Dörfer can make you question what it is your eyes are telling you. The engraved
Physics > Neckpiece by Frieda DÖRFER
Title: Terror Vacui Materials: brass, engraved (engine turning), blackened Size: 10 x 33 x 7 cm Photo by Andreas KRUFCZIK
Medicine > Brooches by Carole DELTENRE
Title: Nymphs Materials: porcelana and silver Photo by: Carole DELTENRE
Consumption is what fuels the global economy. But for how long will this accelerating wheel be able to spin? Tzu-Ling Lee presents an installation of stones made of thousands of receipts collected by her friends. The “carat” of each stone is directly in response to how much that individual have been shopping during a period of time and
Literature > Kellie RIGGS
Neckpiece: continuity/structure (bronze III), 2011 Materials: Patinated bronze Size: 30 x 21 x 10 cm Photo: Jack SCHOW
stores. The message and the aesthetic qualities are the genuine value of these precious stones.
PEACE highly seductive. The Physics Jewellery Prize is awarded
The intention of the Nobel Jewellery “Piece” Prize is to
Frieda Dörfer for creating magnetism using optical effects.
bring attention to a person, instance or phenomenon that works hard to bring more light on contemporary jewellery.
The prize of 2013 is awarded to Inger Wästberg – collector, art historian and author of the new book on
Carole Deltenre has highlighted the genesis of all creativity, the source of life. Wearing her pieces is a strong
Contemporary Swedish Art Jewellery. The book presents
and proud statement that this is something important to
thirty-one Swedish jewel-
defend, value and homage.
lery artists from the 1990s to today and explores
how jewellery has evolved
The magic of really good literature is its ability to throw you in a certain state of mind. This necklace made
materials and techniques
by Kellie Riggs forces the wearer into both physical and
to its present state of con-
mental position. It frames your thoughts and makes you
cept and content. Since the release of
focused and concentrated.
the book, Wästberg has been spreading the word of contemporary jewellery through various channels and reached large masses. The project has been seen on daytime TV
Peace > Contemporary Swedish Art Jewellery by Inger Wästberg, ARVINIUS+ORFEUS PUBLISHING
and in fashion magazines, Economy > Installation: The lightness of life, Tzu-LING LEE 2011–2013
During the (real) Nobel Prize event a TV-presenter wore a necklace by Märta Mattsson, one of the artists featured in the book. We applaud this force of energy and dedication to bring more light on art jewellery. Congratulations to all the awards winners of 2013! Now we would like to take the opportunity to thank all of our colleagues, friends and readers for a wonderful 2013 full of exciting projects and hard work. We wish you a spectacular new year and lots of creative energy for 2014!
SWEDISH JEWELLERY REPORT
SWEDISH JEWELLERY REPORT
PRECIOUS, THE LEADING WATCH AND JEWELLERY FAIR IN THE NORDIC REGION Report by Åsa Dahlqvist, Precious Press Ofﬁce
Åsa Axelson, Project Manager at Precious
Precious is the most important meeting ground for the Nordic watch and jewellery industry. During three intensive days at Stockholmsmässan in Sweden, purchasers and suppliers are gathered from all the Nordic countries. Visitors and exhibitors are provided with rich opportunities to do business, build relations, network, spot trends and to strengthen the industry together with other important actors.
uring 2012, Precious strengthened its posi-
Nordic region can meet new and exiting representatives
tions as the Nordic watch and jewellery indus-
from independent watch and jewellery stores”, says Åsa
try’s leading trade fair. The all-out venture was
Axelson, Project Manager at Precious.
launched in 2012 in an effort to develop Precious over the
Precious 2014 is held on the 5–7 September. For three
long term. Looking back, it actually surpassed all expecta-
intense days and evenings Precious gather the industry and move it forward. The overall goal of Precious is to in-
in 2013. The choice of Stockholm as the dynamic hub of
crease the interest in the craft, to make it more attractive
Scandinavian fashion and design and Stockholmsmässan,
and to increase business within the whole sector.
one of Scandinavia’s prime exhibition areas, proved to be
“We have breathed new life and excitement into our
the right move.
passion for our craft and the desire to create beautiful and
“Our ambition has always been to create a forum for
functional objects!”, Åsa Axelson says, and welcome visi-
the watch and jewellery industry, where leading manufac-
tors and exhibitors from the Baltic countries to participate
turers, suppliers and buyers representing Sweden and the
in Precious 2014.
FINNISH JEWELLERY REPORT
CONNECTING ENVIRONMENT WITH PEOPLE Interview of Odilija GUNTORIUTE with Sari LIIMATTA
Was it always your dream to make jewellery?
ious value, which the stories often need. Toys and por-
narian. There was just so few places to study it in Finland,
to start to work with. I also love to use glass. It looks
that I had to change my plans. Making jewellery was the
like a very cold material, but needs enormous amount of
next natural choice, for it still allowed me to work with na-
warmth during it´s manufacture steps. It also gets it´s start
ture (stones) and later after school I also started to deal in
from the nature elements. Most of your work is little statues of animals,
my work with animal themes. This way the circle became
what is the idea behind your art?
ready for me, and I found my place. What materials do you mostly use in your work?
I think myself as a reporter. My work tells about envi-
Among traditional jewellery materials like silver, I pre-
ronmental problems and animal right issues all around us.
fer working especially with stones and amber, for they
At the same time I connect the stories of them to us as
represent materials and colors directly from the nature.
well; I tell about people and our relationships.
They provide colors, which refer to genuine and prestig-
Where do you look for an inspiration? The stories come to me. I see them on the cities, read about them on the newspapers or watch them on TV. I can´t hide myself from them. I feel it as my personal duty to
"Death & Birth" 2007
Necklace 48,0 x 20,0 x 7,0 cm Amber, glass beads, garnets, fresh water pearls, peridots, pins, silver, a plastic toy, steel wire
FINNISH JEWELLERY REPORT "The Competition" 2006
Jewellery sculpture 41,0 x 10,5 x 17,0 cm Amber, glass beads, diabase, hematite, lava, line, onyx, fresh water pearls, pins, plastic toys
"Mighty" 2013 Installation (11 parts) 25,0 x 16,0 x 19,0 cm Amber, glass beads, marble, thread (polyamide), pins, a plastic toy
bring those often sad themes to daylight. With discussion there can be always hope to change things in the future. I also study the past by reading about ancient cultures and the positions, which the animals used to have those days. I love those travels in time, symbolism and layers of stories. Do you make wearable jewellery? I consider all my work to be wearable, but some of
REPUBLIC OF FINLAND
them I call jewellery sculptures. Jewellery sculptures are sculptures, which tell about jewellery. You can kind of im-
EU, Hallmarking Convention Capital Helsinki Finnish, Swedish Currency Euro (EUR) Time zone EET (UTC+2) – Summer (DST) EEST (UTC+3) Area – 338 424 km2 Population (2012) 5 421 827 Government Parliamentary republic President Sauli Niinisto Prime Minister Jyrki Katainen GDP (PPP) Per capita 26 786 EUR Ethnic groups 93.4% Finn 6.6% others Finland Largest cities Russia Helsinki 596 233 Espoo 252 730 Tampere 215 315 Estonia
agine how to wear them. They may become worn in mind. How many shows have you had in 2013? In 2013 I had my work in six international exhibitions. One for example was held at Paläontologisches Museum München, Germany. Others were in China, Spain, Iceland, France and UK. Do you participate in the international jewellery exhibitions? For me it is more important to participate in the international exhibitions than national ones. This way my work and the stories have a wider audience. I also feel today´s cused on traditional industrial designing. Artists are pressured to found companies instead of working as freelance artists, which I feel very narrow-minded politics. Abroad the jewellery exhibitions are more open for artistic values, telling stories.
NORWEGIAN JEWELLERY REPORT
t FASHION IS POLITICS where she started to make Swarovski Earrings sometimes during the lunch break instead of eating. She needed to tals and sparkling colours. Vanessa later on lost her job during the early stages of the Financial crisis in 2009. After applying for job after job in the drought season of the early Financial Crisis, she started out creating her own jewellery. She then embarked on a new journey claiming the entrepreneurial spirit and creating her own jewellery collection. Knowing nothing about how business works – a whole new journey of learning every step up the “business, marketing– and production” latter by her self on From the left Vanessa g unnestad c EO & c reative Director of t he n orway
selling at uptown stores in Oslo such as Zenon, sold also
ackground: Vanessa started out with studying for
for some time at House of Oslo, Venti Uno, Ellie & Co,
a Masters of IT in Australia but was constantly day-
MagMalou Maggie Wonka, Diin Brudekjolebutikk, had col-
dreaming of making jewellery and other crafts but
laboration for photoshoots with the upcoming Norwegian
never thought it could bring an income. Her mindset was
that she had to study IT which supposedly was a “mature
sor for Miss World Nor way 2012 where the jeweller y was
and respected” way to make a living. After all, Norway
shown to over 50 million people. Vanessa discovered one evening while working and watching TV her earrings on princess Märtha-Louise on a popular TV-Show called
the oil and today is a country that focus strongly on oil,
“Senkveld med Harald& Thomas” and was quite surprised Returning to Norway she got a job as a webmaster
by it. Vanessa was also asked to design for the Norwegian
in the world’s second largest pharmaceutical corporation,
bridal dresses company Agape and also the Norwegian
NORWEGIAN JEWELLERY REPORT
airline company called Norwegian amongst others.
JEWELLERY WITH A MESSAGE Since the tragedy happened in Oslo and Utøya 22nd of July 2011 Vanessa designed a jewellery that was her tribute to the victims, surv i vo r s a n d t h e n e x t of k ins c a ll e d “Ja vi elsker” which means “Yes we love”, – it was also a love message to the Norwegian fashion designers to embrace Norwegian design and their effort to stand up and trying to sur vive as designers. Vanessa Earlier that year Vanessa had a trip to Thailand and got introduced to the work to help people out of trafthe most was the reports of small children found in garbage bins after being sold by evil people and abused by evil people. Vanessa designed a jewellery that she wanted to sell and promote for those homes. It is a pendant with a baby saying “I am not for sale”.
FASHION IS POLITICS Later on Vanessa was asked to 2012 which she designed some special designed jewellery and gave to the winners. Unfortunately the three winners were go-go dancers in bars in Oslo and thus the rules of Miss Universe are quiet strict and The beginning of the contract that jewellery had to be under no circumstances promoted or displayed in context of pornographic matters as ly against the sex-industry thus being a ambassador of protecting human was furious and contacted both the
NORWEGIAN JEWELLERY REPORT
where the replies were more in lines with Bill Clinton communicating during the Monica Lewinsky case. Vanessa stood her grounds and claimed the logos and everything ing all the jewellery back, which she never got back. She believes in building her business on higher standards. 2013 started on a low and Vanessa got sick for most of the year and also her mother died from long time illness with MS. Her boyfriend Tobias stepped in to take care of Vanessa who fully recovered in August after being ill since the beginning of February. Today she is slowly building up the company again in social medias and hopes to produce a line of clothes and accessories in the future, there is also a book on the horizon teaching how to make some selected jewellery models. Now they are also doing an online videoblogging course at videoblogging.no that soon will available at videoblogging.tv in English. Teaching people how to videoblog and communicate through social medias.
For more info and how to buy the jewellery go to ›
KINGDOM OF NORWAY Hallmarking Convention Capital Oslo Norwegian Currency Norwegian krone (NOK); 1 EUR – 7.4350 NOK Time zone CET (UTC+1) – Summer (DST) CEST (UTC+2) Area 385 252 km 2 Population (2012) 5 033 675 Government Unitary parliamentary constitutional monarchy King King Harald V Prime Minister Erna Solberg GDP (PPP) Per capita 39 526 EUR Ethnic groups Norway 86.2% Norwegians 13.8% others Largest cities Oslo 876 391 Bergen 257 752 Stavanger/Sandnes 189 828
yOur a DVErtis EMEnt firstname.lastname@example.org www.balticjewellerynews.com
CHINESE JEWELLERY REPORT
HUNGER FOR AMBER – HOW LONG WILL IT LAST?
Interview of Odilija GUNTORIUTE with Vivian YANG The boom of Baltic amber industry 20 years ago
Could you please present your company
was a result of the famous movie “Jurassic Park”
My company Sage Amber started amber wholesale
by Steven Spielberg. Today amber industry is in the peak for a more sustainable reason,
amber distributors in China. In 2003, after we started co-
the continuing growth of China. The growing
operating with S&A, the biggest and best amber producer
Chinese middle class can afford luxury goods
in Poland with such recognizable designs and high qual-
now, thus enabling amber business to prosper.
ity work in amber market, we decided to ask to become
Baltic Jewellery n ews interviewed Vivian yang
their exclusive distributor in China and the authorization
on her views on how long the prosperity of
was granted at the end of 2003. In 2004 we started S&A
Baltic amber industry would last.
brand franchise shops in China. And now, after 10 years of hard work, S&A is recognized as the top amber brand by all the department stores in China and by the public.
Vivian yang (forth from the left) at “s &a
jewellery design” collection presentation
CHINESE JEWELLERY REPORT
How many stores do you have? How many workers do you have? The number of stores is constantly growing. Now we 35 employees working in sales, marketing, inventory and Do you do manufacturing? I donâ€™t do manufacturing. My focus is on building the retail brand. S&A in Poland concentrates on design and manufacturing of jewellery and supplies 80% of total collections we have in all the S&A shops, and the remaining 20% are outsourced to other manufacturers. Is your business concentrated more on wholesale or retail? As I already explained we are concentrated on retail much more although a part of our business is also wholesaling to all amber jewellery dealers with mostly products without metal setting and characteristics of our brand, e.g., beads, bracelets and necklaces, pendants without setting, amber sculptures, etc. When was the time that you understood that this was the right business to enter? amber distributors in China. At the beginning the market was very small and amber was not recognized by most of the customers as a gemstone. The sales were not great but on the other hand I almost didnâ€™t have any competition, which made it easy for me to sustain the business comfortably. Since 2009, the amber market started booming. There are more and more investors starting amber business. Amber has become more popular, more expensive and sells much faster and in much bigger quantities. My advantage of entering amber business so early was better revealed when the market started to boom because when ways to learn about the design, the taste, the producers... I already had all the knowledge and resources at hand to
in Hong Kong Jewellery Fair of 1997. I went there to buy
enjoy the boom.
some jewellery because we had some space still available
Vivian, you started your career as a translator,
and we wanted to run our own jewellery shop with that
now you have over 100 amber jewellery shops in
space stocked. I knew nothing about amber then but I
China, when did you begin your business what were
was attracted by it, and amber was very affordable then.
After several purchases, I approached Mr. Roman Talis
I started my career as a translator working for a 85
from Amber # 1 company asking for support and terms of
million dollar loan World Bank poverty reduction project
more serious cooperation. Here I really would like to use
undertaken by the company I worked for. When the com-
this opportunity to thank Mr. Roman Talis for the trust he
pany built a 2000 square meter jewellery trading centre in
had in me to consign goods for me to sell almost without
Guangzhou in 1997, I was appointed the General Manager
any risk to take in 1998. That is how I started my business in amber.
CHINESE JEWELLERY REPORT
What are your efforts to promote amber and
At the beginning when there was almost no aware-
sustain its popularity?
ness about amber in China, therefore almost no clients, my greatest fear was never about the possibility of losing
Together with S&A company in Poland and my part-
money since the merchandise was for consignment and I
ner Adam Pstragowski, we do a lot of amber promotion
could return whatever I could not sell, the fear was more
in China. The Shanghai World Expo in 2010 saw the huge
about losing the trust.
success of amber selling in Polish Pavilion and helped a lot to make amber recognized by the public. We are also in-
Although your success is overwhelming, you have kept the tradition to touch every piece of jew-
volved in almost all the Polish events held in China, show-
ellery yourself before you buy it. What is it that you
ing Baltic amber to the public as the national treasure of
are looking for each time?
Poland. We had an annual promotion agreement with the
I think my success has partly come from the fact that I
most popular fashion magazine and jewellery magazine
really love amber and I feel for it. Customers also feel the
in China. Twice a year, we host two major amber fashion
soul of our amber design when they come to our shops.
shows in the most prestigious department stores, one in
Even after so many years in amber business, I havenâ€™t got
Shenzhen and one in Beijing, inviting a lot of amber lov-
tired of amber at all. I always joke that I enjoy buying
ers, celebrities and media. S&A company has received a lot of awards,
amber much more than selling it. When I buy, I look for
which ones were the most important for you?
the following factors in the order of priority: the quality
I am very proud to be the exclusive distributor for
of amber, the setting design and quality and the price.
S&A in China because it is really strong and advanced in amber? How much has your business grown since
design, which is very crucial for the development of the
brand. All those awards S&A had won are equally important because it shows the appreciation of our design by
I noticed that the Baltic amber boom started in 2009.
Since then, our sales have grown a few times although The amber price rise since 2009 is still continuing, and it is at its highest now, how long do you think it will last? In my opinion, the rapidly rising price of amber is very dangerous for the industry. A very good example is jade in China. In the last couple of years, the jade price also jumped to a rocket high price. Now, the market is stuck. The price is high, and people cannot afford it any more. But if the price starts to go down, Chinese people, with the mentality of always buying for investment with value gaining perspective, will stop buying completely. Could you name top exhibitions you go to look for new suppliers? Amberif and Ambermart are the only two shows I am attending now because I only deal with amber. March 2014 looking for new suppliers from Lithuania.
The 26th edition of the Jeweller Expo u the 14th till the 17th of n ovember, about 30,000 visitors came to KyivExpoPlaza exhibition center to admire the brightest jewelry. r epresentatives of more than 300 jewelry companies from 9 countries gathered in the capital city of ukraine to show their products and tell about the trends of the season.
Report by Jeweller Expo Ukraine press ofﬁce
participants of Jeweller Expo Ukraine are the 300 leading companies from Ukraine, Belgium, Georgia, Italy, China, Lithuania, Turkey, Poland,
metals business took part in the exposition. The diversity of the represented products was indeed impressive. The range of styles was quite large. Silver products were ranging from tableware to unique author works for admirers of original products. Gold astonished with the multiple form and combinations both in the mass market items and exclusive works. The exhibition allowed visitors diving into the atmosphere of ancient jewelry traditions and simultaneously appreciate the latest trends, as jewelry is still a symbol of beauty, luxury and welfare. The Best Jewelry of the Year On the 16th of November, the totals of the Best
In the series of the events of the same day another
Jewelry of the Year contest held during the exhibition
important event was held, i.e. the ceremony of awarding
were summed up. The laureates and the award winners of
the outstanding jewelers of Ukraine with the awards of
contest were announced. Both participants and exhibition
Carl Faberge International Memorial Fund.
of all due to professional approach to organization of the
The competent jury consisting of the leading art crit-
event, which ensured quality and quantity characteristics
ics and renowned jewelers summarized the results of the
of the participants and visitors, and preparation of unique
contest. In general, 71 works had been offered for it.
and extremely interesting program of events.
The contest winner and the winner of the Grand Prize
The Jeweller Expo Ukraine exhibition has once again
was Andrii A. Kovalyk for the table set “The Miracle of St.
proved its status of the main industry exhibition event of
UKRAINIAN JEWELLERY REPORT
Abundance of bright events at the Jeweller Expo Ukraine 2013
Report by Rotaforte Press Ofﬁce he world jewelry and watch industry will gath-
end design Jewellery for the coming spring-sumer and au-
er at one of the most important events of the
tumn retail season orders.
year at Istanbul Jewelry Show March on 20–23
Istanbul Jewelry Show March is supported by the
March 2014 in six halls of Istanbul Fair Center (CNR
Small and Medium Enterprises Development Organisation
Expo). The four-day event will occupy more than 60,000 square metres of exhibition space and gather over 1200
by the Union of International Fairs (UFI) and the Quality
exhibitors from 25 countries with an extensive display of
Management System ISO-9001, ensuring that it repre-
the latest products and trends exclusive for industry pro-
sents an outstanding international trade event serving
fessionals. UBM Rotaforte is UBM Asia’s JV company in
the fast growing domestic and international markets sur-
Gold jewelry, diamond jewelry, diamonds & pearls,
The exhibition halls are designed and grouped
silver jewelry, mountings, watches, machinery, tools &
by product in order to save time and increase ef-
equipments, display units, packaging, security devices and
be international pavilions from Hong Kong, Italy
softwares will be displayed just for industry professionals.
With Turkey’s strategic location, Istanbul Jewelry Show March has a unique positioning as an important marketplace for both Europe and the Middle East, serving as the gateway for the World jewelry industry and an outstanding trading hub for countries in the EU, the Middle and Near East, Russia and the CIS Nations, Eastern Europe, North Africa and the Mediterranean providing the best opportunities to source new psoducts, meet and technological innovations. Turkish jewellery is both an art and a craft. Inspired by 5,000 years of cultural and historical heritage in Anatolia and combined with the latest technology, outstanding the shortest delivery time, Istanbul Jewelry Show March is an ideal place to source products in every category of price and quality, from price point merchandise to high-
ISTANBUL JEWELRY SHOW MARCH The Largest March Edition To Date
INTERNATIONAL AMBER ASSOCIATION Interview with Michał kos Ior by Odilija GUNTORIUTE
geries and how to recognise them and many other topics. The course proved to be a big success, which is why we are planning more editions, with English
What are the goals of the Interna-
translation as well. Speaking about edu-
tional Amber Association? Our goals were formulated back in
cation, I cannot fail to mention our book-
1996, when the IAA was founded, and in-
lets about Baltic amber, which we publish
clude mainly: to develop a system for Baltic
in many languages, including Chinese and
Japanese. Last year, we printed nearly 20,000 copies and had more than 10,000
ing house; to work with schools, with local Michał k osior Vice-President of IAA
and national government authorities on amber extraction and crafting; to stimu-
PDF downloads from our website. Very importantly, last year we worked with journalists from jewellery magazines
late amber research and the exploration of amber deposits; to work with science centres; and to
and elsewhere. It is mainly through our contacts with
provide education and training. At present, our most im-
journalists that information about amber and IAA activities can reach wide audiences worldwide. The Promotion
and to promote it in the global market. The International
Programme for the Jewellery and Amber Industry run by
Amber Association has 250 individual members and many
Poland’s Ministry of Economy has allowed us to invite sev-
of them have their own agenda which coincides with the
eral trade journalists from the USA, China, Italy, Germany
Association’s. We do our best to support our members’
and Japan to Amberif Gdańsk. Their reports have had a
initiatives and create synergies in the process.
resounding effect. We provided them with IAA amber
Looking back to 2013, which projects initiated by
info packs in order to promote Baltic amber as a perfect
the International Amber Association do you think
jewellery material. The media’s interest in amber is now -
were the most important?
ingly better amber jewellery design but also to increased
Last year we focused mainly on publishing, informa-
tion and promotion campaigns. Our main projects included participating in the Baltic Amber Festival ran by the
A very important project, which we will certainly
IAA’s Ambassador to China Nancy Chui and in the Beijing
continue, is the STOP Illegal Amber Mining campaign.
First International Amber Fair. We take part in Polish and
In November, together with the seaside municipality of
Lithuanian amber trade exhibitions in order to always
Stegna and the Elbląg Forest Authority, we planted pine
keep in touch with the customers.
trees in the areas degraded by illegal mining. We also have something for the kids: an international
In August, at Ambermart Gdańsk, we organised the Understanding Amber Training Course. We have noticed
school competition titled School on the Amber Route,
that even those who sell amber may have serious gaps in
which we have run for six years now. The competition al-
their knowledge about it. This one-day course gives the
lows us to tell children about amber’s place in the history
people who work with amber the essential information,
of humankind and what role trade routes, including the
including: the location of amber deposits, the origin of
Amber Route, played in the development of Europe and the world.
of Fine Arts (Poland). Together, we invited 20 renowned
amber products. I have been receiving positive market
European designers, who had not worked with amber be-
feedback on it as a much needed initiative. Amber is get-
fore, to make amber jewellery or amber objects. We sent
ting more and more expensive, so customers increasingly
pieces of raw amber to them and, several months later,
want their valuable jewellery or raw amber to have been
they sent us back their projects. An exhibition of their work goes for all gemstones.
was successfully displayed at the Ghent gallery, Amber Museum Ribnitz-Damgarten, Amber Museum Gdańsk and
The International Amber Association took part in
the Legnica Gallery of Art. This year, it will be further pre-
the Baltic Amber Festival in Hong Kong. What were
sented in other locations, including the Kaliningrad Amber
the goals of the Festival? How successful was it? The Hong Kong Baltic Amber Festival was created
Museum. We are planning to continue this experiment.
by our member and IAA’s Ambassador to China Nancy
What plans do you expect to accomplish during
Chui. Last year saw the festival’s second edition titled A
Kaleidoscope of Amber Art & Designer Jewellery from
This year, we want to focus on fundamental education, especially in the Chinese market. Next to the courses,
Poland. The exhibition included works by Professor
which are scheduled to coincide with our trade exhibition
Sławomir Fijałkowski and Mariusz Gliwiński, who ran an
presence, we want to develop an online training course.
amber workshop the previous year for the students of the
Many organisations are seen to be shifting basic-level
Hong Kong Design Institute, and by companies includ-
training to the World Wide Web. It will be a great aid to
ing S&A, Art7, NAC Amber, Jacek Ostrowski, plus collec-
companies at distant locations or those who are too busy
tions of natural specimens and inclusions courtesy of John
during trade exhibitions.
Fudala, Jonas Damzen and Doug Lundberg. The festival’s aim was to promote Baltic amber, its
We also plan to publish several more posters to pre-
diverse history, cultural heritage and use in jewellery.
sent amber’s colours, amber inclusions and commercial
Amber in contemporary jewellery is remarkable and beauWe have received offers to present amber designs by
tiful–and yet remains little known. In principle, the BAF’s
the IAA members in several locations worldwide. I think
aim is to change this, to show the collaboration between
that an exhibition developed to present contemporary
European and Chinese designers and students. Last year,
amber design alongside abstract amber art should prove
Mariusz Gliwiński and Janko Lam, a Hong Kong fashion
an interesting and novel form of presentation.
designer, produced a joint jewellery and fashion show.
The fashion show in Baltic Amber Festival in Hong Kong
Since January, we have had a new staff member who
We ran a remarkable cooperation project with the Villa de Bondt, Ghent (Belgium) and the Gdańsk Academy
Fashion shows, the experience exchange between Polish
World Jewellery Confederation. According to the world’s
and Chinese designers, students and teachers are all very
gemstone organisations (CIBJO, AGTA, GIA; or ICA, of
important and media-friendly events. The festival led to
which the IAA is a member), whoever subjects a stone to
several publications in China’s jewellery and designer magazines. I take my hat off to Nancy Chui for the work
amber, it is common practice, which is nothing wrong in
and effort that she and her team have put in promoting
itself. But, unfortunately, sometimes the customer is not
amber and I very much look forward to the forthcoming
informed that the stone in the ring they have bought was
festivals they’ve planned.
heated up in an autoclave to alter its colour or transpar-
The International Amber Association released
egories to suit amber. The Chinese market, which has been very receptive in recent years, is used to having such
were the aims of this project? The IAA’s Amber Expert Commission developed two
information and expects it. That is why we persuade our
members to apply the principles that are used worldwide.
ber by colour variety, degree of transparency, impurities
The STOP Illegal Amber Mining campaign was
and shape. This detailed categorisation can be used for
initiated by the International Amber Association.
transactions based not just on weight fractions but also
Do you think such events will have any impact? Who
on other factors, which determine how raw amber can be
else supported the campaign?
used. It seems to me that the amber industry still pays too
For many years, we have been observing a degrada-
little attention to amber sorting but treats raw amber as
tion in the natural environment due to the illegal mining
a cheap material instead, the way it did 20 years ago. In
of Holocene amber deposits. In recent years, following the
recent years, both the price and availability of amber have
changed considerably so we have to change our approach
tire Polish coast, affecting especially the natural beauty of
sand dunes. Illegal mining is a huge problem in the shal-
ber, while an artist would rather buy amber in rare shapes
low Palaeogene deposits of the Kaliningrad Region and in
than pieces useful for mass production.
Ukraine. Certainly, it results from both market shortages of raw amber and its high price tag.
sponse to the global trend to identify gemstones by name,
Since its establishment, the IAA has been lobbying in
as described in the Blue Book published by CIBJO–The
favour of legal mining and against the degradation of the
Part of the poster “c ommercial c
environment. In 2007, the Mayor of Gdańsk made it possible to lease shallow deposits under the local law. No illegal digging was recorded for almost a year but the problem returned after the lease expired. It follows from trade press and discussions within the IAA that a new generation of consumers is entering the market. They want their products to be neutral to the environment. It is very significant especially in religious products; let us not forget that in Buddhism amber is both one of seven most important treasures and an increasingly popular rosary material. Our campaign was supported by the municipality of Stegna, which is one of the locations were illegal mining takes place, and by the Elbląg Forest Authority, which supervises the seaside forests that often grow on amber deposits. On a November Saturday, IAA members and friends planted pine seedlings in the areas where amber is illegally mined. The IAA’s Russian friends also took part in the campaign as they want to counteract illegal mining at home. We will certainly repeat our campaign in the spring. The amber price rise since 2009 is still continuing, amber’s price is at its highest, how long do you think it will last? I have recently been comparing raw amber prices. In 1997, the industry’s stock 10–20g fraction cost an equivalent of EUR 100. Today, its price is over a dozen times from the Chinese market but also by Russian policy, which has practically made it impossible to export raw amber. In my opinion, this policy is too harsh and will give rise to corruption. We realise that the amber market has not been systematised so far but blocking exports will not improve its condition at all. There is no Russian, Lithuanian or Polish amber–we are all interconnected. What we have is Baltic amber–a brand that we should be promoting together. And this requires Russians, Lithuanians and Poles to work together. Market-wise, we are now in a place where it is only by working together that we can promote the Baltic amber brand and avoid a speculation bubble. It may sound strange but let us use the opportunity of Baltic amber being as valuable now as during the Roman Empire. Let us elevate it to the position, which it had at the dawn of humankind, when it was a uniquely precious material or even an amulet. The markets for jadeite and amber share certain features. When comparing them, I’m concerned that the price rise is not over yet.
RIACETECH. LISTENING AND
PAYING ATTENTION TO DETAILS r iaceGroup returns to talk about itself and three major new features: Intuitive, the new machine from the r iaceWax line, r iaceChem the opening of a new facility for research and development on wax, and r iaceThai, a branch in Bangkok.
Interview of Elena AIELLO with Giovanni LEJKOWSKI
current waxes, and on the reduction of withdrawal; they request waxes that are easier to inject into increasingly complex molds and waxes which are soluble in water in
What lies behind Intuitive,
order to obtain 3D models by avoiding the costs of proto-
your new injector ?
typing machines. Why did you decide to open a non-commercial
Simply a new intuitive way of
branch in Thailand ?
working. The use of a tablet with
Giovanni Lejkowski, CEO and founder of the RiaceGroup
Android interface to manage the
Basically to provide a complete service to our clients: to
machine offers many new possi-
meet market demand as supplying machinery also implies
bilities for the operator: mobility, as
providing a service to our clients, especially in the case of
each unit can be moved from one
large companies with whom we already collaborate. The
machine to another, the conserva-
Asian market has become a strategic area, a reservoir of
tion of programs thanks to photos
multinational companies and growing opportunities. For this reason, it has become crucial for RiaceTech to provide support tailored to client needs. Why did you chose Bangkok?
the most inexperienced operators. What new features does the tablet controlled
The centrality of Bangkok allows us to be present in
all the major companies for which we have become, from
This formula offers the opportunity to constantly keep
being mere suppliers, partners in research and develop-
the machine up to date simply by downloading new appli-
ment for lostwax casting, and the opening of RiaceThai,
cations through which production management is quick
with its 750sqm, aims to be a technological hub for the
and easy. For example, the Production App for monitor-
entire Asian market. intuitive, the
ing the progress of orders directly on the injector. The
wax research and the Bangkok branch?
Network App leverages the interconnectivity of the tablet and, in a few easy steps, you can create a network
Our ongoing research in interpreting and responding
between the devices to share information and to control
to market demands, for which RiaceTech participates in
production by going back to the causes of defects.
major international trade shows. We have re-sellers and
What does the new RiaceChem plant deal with ?
clients around the whole world with very different needs
In two words? Research and development or to im-
and, through our innovations, we try to satisfy them by making it easier for them to work.
prove the quality of waxes for use on all RiaceWax ma-
What are your objectives for 2014 , Mr. Lejkowski ? Everything starts from the pleasure of running a comthe model. This also allows us to provide a complete ser-
pany comprised of young people who are passionate
vice to the client.
about innovation and the future. This makes me believe
Why is there a need to create new types of wax?
that 2014 will also be a year of growth similar to the previ-
Our customers are becoming more demanding and
ous year. A year in which we will be able to be even closer
one of their recurring requirements is the possibility of
to our clients and support them in the innovation process:
moving the limit on the minimum thickness required by
Riacetech is â€œNo stopping innovation!â€?
WITH AMBER FOR ALMOST HALF A CENTURY! Interview with Knut RUDLOFF by Odilija GUNTORIUTE Democratic Republic. After the fall of the communist system, initially it was hard to create replacement for existing structures. What was the most interesting event during Your working years with amber? There are a lot of interesting stories to be told. Each new product, each new collection is an interesting challenge and adventure. However, in 1990, a visit to the ligk nut r
nite mine in the GDR at Bitterfeld was a special adventure. In the mine, about 20 tons of amber were dug up every
Mr. Rudloff, we have been seeing You in Vilnius
year. After the Fall of the Berlin Wall, there was a small
and Gdansk amber fair for many years. How long
period of time when one could quite legally go to the mine
have You been working with amber?
and collect amber. On some days I collected over 200 kg. Amazingly, the amber pieces, washed out of the soil by rain
pieces of amber in a small beach of St. Peter-Ording resort
and wind, were just lying on the ground! It was a sort of
at the North Sea. My father produced me a simple grinding
“Blue earth” as in Samland of about 10 km² area. Around
and polishing machine, so in the same year, at the age of a lake, which in some places reaches up to 35 m deep. Can amber still be found there?
for my grandmother and aunt And from this moment You were caught by the
From geological research, I know that a reservoir of
virus of amber?
approximately 1,000 tons is predicted. If the prices of raw
Yes, it was a nice hobby. In my early life, I collected
materials continue to rise, probably this accumulation of
many kilograms of amber, processed and sold everything all
amber in the middle of Germany will be re-mastered with
on my own. After graduating from school at the beginning
a new extraction method (hydro-digging). So far it is not
of 80’s I studied business administration and engineering at the Technical University of Berlin. I paid for my education
150 grams of amber can be found in one cubic meter of
from income received from my small business of amber.
this “Blue earth”, i. e. much less than in Kaliningrad. About Your current job. What is Your company
What happened next?
“Nordschmuck GmbH” engaged in and what are
After graduating, I worked for some years at a Institute
Your strengths? We supply our collections to almost 500 jewellery and
I did not like designing factories for large trusts, and in 1986
souvenir shops in Germany. Our strength is the creation of
I decided to engage in amber trade as my core business. At that time the Berlin Wall was still standing.
gifts and jewellery, which precisely meet the taste of con-
Where did You get amber from?
sumers in Germany. It may be quite simple products such as
The State Enterprise of Foreign Trade “Cepelia” was op-
our amber polishing kit for children. We star ted marketing
erating in Poland, which organized sales of about 20 works
ten years ago. At that time our competitors mocked us be-
of artists in the West. “VEB Ostseeschmuck”, with which
cause the product was cheap. To this day, we have sold over half a million of such kits. In other words, more than 500
gether we offer more than 100 displays with different top-
dants and experienced an exciting adventure. This is how
ics. Eight employees work in the unit of preparation and
we promote a positive approach to amber from the early
dispatch of products for the German market, four more
age because today’s children are our future customers.
employees work in administration and sales.
000 children in Germany polished their own amber pen-
Every year we attempt to create at least one new collection with our brand. Last year, for example, we began selling the collection “My Island”, which was a huge success across the North and Baltic Sea region. We have developed 15 popular holiday islandshaped
using The stand of the company “Nordschmuck GmbH” in a fair (January, 2013)
silver on the outside and amber of various shapes and colour inside. For the
What major problems arise in Your daily work?
design of amber and silver Amber polishing kit in a bag at the sales stand
we used exact contours of
We call our concept of decorating and logistics “the
a certain island. We closely
sale of amber under the system”. It is highly important that
cooperated with a company in Gdansk; over a year, I trav-
for many years we have been providing our customers with
the product No. “AB” or a collier with the product No. Another new brand and a new collection is called
“XY” must look and have the same dimensions and the
“Amber meets black oak”. In this regard, we are closely co-
same weight as it is now. Of course, this condition puts
operating with the Polish artist Tadeusz Dobkowski, who,
strong demands on our suppliers in Lithuania and Poland. How many companies do You cooperate with,
in his company in Gdynia, produces a unique and nice col-
and do You keep close relations with them?
lection of two fossil materials: amber and black oak.
There are 15 companies in Lithuania, from which we regularly receive goods; there are more such companies in Amber Meets With Swamp Oak
Poland. In most cases we provide own designs and patterns for production with very strict quality standards, we have to trust each other at 100%. After regularly visiting each manufacturer, sometime even meeting their families, very friendly relations have developed in both countries during the past year, which I did not wish to abandon. Special reliability of our suppliers forms the basis of our continuous growth and success. What do you think about the future? in obtaining supplies of the raw materials. It is said that Russia would stop exporting raw amber and is going to process everything on its own. Probably Russia considers it
How large is Your range of products and how
an attractive idea, however, I believe that its implementa-
many people are employed in “Nordschmuck”?
tion is not realistic. The Soviet Union tried to do the same
We offer about 2000 different products, which are
in the 70’s, however, it resulted in amber mining becoming
placed on various displays, , sales racks or baskets. All to-
a branch of industry in another country, namely, the GDR.
Although the “Blue earth” in Kaliningrad is under ground
jewellery from amber and silver at this fair and in the fair
level, however, the geological layer containing amber
“Amberif”. In Gdansk, I was demonstrating a new design
stretches up to Poland and Lithuania, therefore, upon rising
idea: processing of amber with black oak. Rudloff noticed
prices of raw materials, industrial excavation can be started
these great design products, however, he bought only a
elsewhere. Currently a kind of poker is being played. Later,
few pendants “on a trial” as he said, and “maybe next time
the situation returns to normal, which I am sure.
I will buy more”. After that time I have not heard anything
Mr. Rudloff, thank You very much for the inter-
from him and almost forgot him.
view and I wish You a happy and successful life with
In February, Rudloff suddenly called me and arranged
a meeting in my gallery in Gdynia. Rudloff wanted to create a collection in my workshop for the wholesale trade Mrs. Thode, You have a
of his company “Nordschmuck GmbH”. The problem was
typical souvenir shop on the
that we had been making only single products, however,
island Usedom. How long
Rudloff wanted products of the same size, even the same
have Your been selling amber and when did You start to co-
not ready for such “serial production”. We continued the
operate with Rudloff?
conversation at my home, we made dozens of sketches and after two bottles of whiskey at dawn we reached a unani-
I took over the store from my parents only three years ago.
from us a few thousand pendants, and now my staff in the
They have known Rudloff for many years. I meet Rudloff once Nicole Thode in her store “Galerie Inselstuv” in Usedom Island
or twice a year at the fair, where I
Over the years, trade relations have strengthened and I
inspect season innovation and lis-
am glad that I can continue to maintain and develop friend-
ten to Rudloff’s interesting advice
ly business relations with Rudloff as my “best customer”
We had the amber corner in the store from the very beginning, however, in recent In particular, it is related to an attractive collection of “Nordschmuck” and fast delivery of goods. We continuously offer modern jewellery that exactly meets our customers’ tastes. Everything is already decorated in nice sales displays to attract the attention of our customers. All prodhigh season every week I order amber products through our mechandise management system. I receive goods within two days; therefore I do not need a large warehouse Dainius Milius and his wife Dovile
with a frozen capital. Mr. Dobkowski when and
Mr. Dainius Milius, please tell us about your busi-
where did You meet Rudloff?
ness partner Knut Rudloff.
It was the autumn of 2010, at
With Knut Rudloff we cooperate for about eight years.
the “Ambermart” fair in Gdansk.
Knut is loyal partner and client. He is very concrete and tac-
For many years I have been pre-
tical. He always knows what he wants and what is needed;
senting my hand-made unique
it will not be a surprise that he values high quality.
Tadeusz Dobkowski in Gdynia (Poland) in his workshop (www. artofamber.com)
has a very good sense of humor. It is nice to work with en-
Most of all he values communicating with people. He ergetic and ambitious person, who never forgets to show his gratitude.
JEWLLERY AS A STATEMENT
DR. MADELEINE ALBRIGHT WILL TAKE YOUR QUESTIONS
By AJF Members www.artjewelryforum.org Madeleine Albright, the 64th Secretary
Read my Pins, Albright’s jewelry memoir published
of State of the United States and a
in conjunction with the eponymous show at New York’s
formidable collector of jewelry, was a
Museum of Arts and Design, bears testimony to the
rather unique advocate for the strategic and provocative
Secretary’s awareness of jewelry’s long history as a propa-
use of pins. Her love affair with jewelry, while not new to
her, erupted on the political scene in 1994 while she was
gle, or a dove would amount to a footnote in that history,
ambassador to the United Nations for the Clinton admin-
were it not for the conjunction of three factors: being a
istration. Albright, who had just been described by the na-
Secretary of State gave her picks unparalleled exposure;
tional Iraqi newspaper as an “unparalleled serpent,” was
being a woman meant she could vastly expand on the rather limited range of masculine ornament; and being who she was meant she was rather less than subservient
she recalls in her jewelry memoirs.
to diplomatic etiquette.
Dr. Albright’s choice of a small gold and diamond
She will now take your questions.
snake pin made diplomatic history. “It was just my way of sending a message,” she told the UN press corps. In subsequent years, as she rose to political prominence, the
I AM PRETTY CAREFUL about
impact of her choices of “what to wear” grew. In turn
not wearing things that are insulting-that’s an IMPORTANT PART of being a diplomat
chiding and wishful, her pins were soon read as personal
Madeleine ALBRIGHT wore snake pin to meetings with i
Luckily, it really did say “Madeleine.” Marthe l e Van, Asheville, n orth Carolina:
just for you? That doesn’t communicate anything to any-
During your service as Secretary of State, did you come
across dignitaries who met pin with pin, answering the
Dr. Madeleine Albright: I have many different
“mute eloquence of pins with attitude” with ornaments of their own?
pins that I have bought or that have been given to me over the years simply because they are pretty or well-crafted
Dr. Madeleine Albright: Interestingly enough, I
or just plain fun. Sometimes it’s nice to wear a piece for
have come across quite a lot of men that wear lapel pins signifying their position in government or representing
message. The piece of jewelry that is by far the most personal to pins. In our own government, many members of Congress
me is a heart-shaped pin made of clay and painted haphazardly in bright colors. It was given to me one Valentine’s
or the Congressional seal.
ual observer, it is neither expertly crafted nor particularly
Sharon Sindell, l os Angeles, California: Was
valuable. But to me, it symbolizes the unbreakable bonds
there ever a situation when a piece you wore was a dis-
of love between mother and daughter and is therefore
traction and got in the way of actual diplomatic work? Dr. Madeleine Albright: There was one instance
Susan Cummins, Tiburon, California: Did you
where my choice of pins got me into trouble. I had traveled with President Clinton to Moscow to meet with President Vladimir Putin, and among a number of issues
meaning based on different cultural points of view? Did
I wanted to raise was Russia’s feigned ignorance of hu-
this ever get you in trouble? Dr. Madeleine Albright: I am pretty careful about
man rights abuses in Chechnya. To show my displeasure,
not wearing things that are insulting-that’s an important
I wore three monkey pins representing the “see no evil,
part of being a diplomat. On the contrary, I try to wear
hear no evil, speak no evil” adage. While walking into a
things that are representative of the place that I am visit-
meeting, President Putin turned to President Clinton and
ing. I have a whole hanging bag of pins that are actually
remarked that the Russians always took great interest in
organized by their country of origin. I particularly like a
what pins I wore and what they might symbolize about
pin that was given to me in Lebanon, which is my name
the US-Russian relationship. He then asked me what my
in Arabic. In that case, I had to do some research to make
monkeys were supposed to signify. I replied point blank that I thought his policies regard-
sure it really was my name in Arabic and not some other
ing Chechnya were “pure evil.” The resulting look on
word that might be embarrassing.
Iradj Moini, Hear No Evil, Speak No Evil, See No Evil 2000, three-brooch set Materials: tagua nuts, yellow gold-plated base metal, simulated pearls, antique German glass cabochons, crystals, Size: 30 x 53 mm. Photo: John Bigelow Taylor
JEWLLERY AS A STATEMENT
Agita Putaane, r iga, l atvia: Your jewelry pieces are your lips for the public. Do you have any jewelry that is
Benjamin l ignel, Montreuil, France: Your collection, while coming from a wide range of sources, bears witness to a particular penchant for costume jewelry. What qualities does it have that more upmarket pieces lack? Are you interested in commissioning work from liv-
President Clinton’s face made it clear that I had taken my
ing jewelers and artists, or do you prefer the adventure
pins a bit too far on that occasion.
of shopping? Dr. Madeleine Albright: I really enjoy combing
Joan Dutton, Chicago, Illinois: What brooch would you wear to a meeting with President Vladimir
catch my eye or speak to me in some way. It’s great fun.
Putin? With President Bashar al-Assad? Dr. Madeleine Albright: In lieu of wearing the
One of the reasons I traditionally opt for costume jew-
monkeys again, I think I would wear a very large American
elry is because of the price. And while I hate the idea of
losing any of my jewelry, I suppose that at least with costume pieces the loss would hurt a little less. I also appreci-
time I met President Assad’s father Hafez al-Assad, be-
ate the accessibility of costume jewelry, because I want to
cause Assad means “lion” in Arabic. However, I think a
make it clear that anyone can do what I’ve done with my
more apt pin would have been a mule due to his stub-
pins. I believe that jewelry doesn’t have to come from a
bornness. In his son’s case, I would probably wear a scor-
fancy store or be made of precious gems to have a power-
pion to depict how he has hurt the Syrian people. Thanks!
Bella n eyman, n ew york, n ew york: How much of her own opinion is a Secretary of State expected (or allowed) to pack in her diplomatic bag and express in public? Did your use of pins-your “personal diplomatic arsenal” – ever come under criticism by your administration for being too personal? Dr. Madeleine Albright: As Secretary of State, I was a member of the presidential cabinet as well as the national security team. Part of my job was to help formulate the foreign policy of the United States, and ultimately I was responsible for packing my own diplomatic bag. The pins were just one particular tool that I used to reinforce the message of the day. Donald Wallens, l os Angeles, California: Having had the pleasure of seeing your jewelry collection at the Clinton Library, I wondered how you feel about it as a museum display, disembodied rather than adorning your self? Dr. Madeleine Albright: Actually, I love it! I am always surprised at how beautifully the various museums display the exhibit. Each one has done it a little differently in terms of spacing and lighting, but the result is always stunning. and continue to wear them, many of the ones on display are custom or vintage pieces, and so I’ve had to let them go. I do miss them at times, but I am glad that others have the opportunity to see them and learn more about the nuances of foreign policy as a result.
JEWLLERY AS A STATEMENT
THERE WAS ONE INSTANCE where my choice of pins GOT ME INTO TROUBLE
THE â€œAMBER ROOMâ€?, worth a billion roubles, found in Kaliningrad region By Klops.ru
he policemen and FSS (Federal Safety Service) ofof amber, which is worth more than a billion
roubles. This was reported by the Regional MIA Board Information Service. The hideout was found during the search of the amber processing workshop, equipped in one of the houses in Yantarny village. The entry to a basement was bricked up. There were 227 bags of amber stored under the ce-
ment layer. Preliminary calculation indicated that the value At the same time MIA noted that many rare specimens, weighing more then 1.5 kg, were found in the bags. The prices of every stone can reach 100 thousand dollars. The search was carried out through the investigation
on a large scale in order to offset VAT amounting to 250
of the proceedings brought against the former owner of
million roubles illegally. Currently the hunt of the interna-
Specialist Ltd. Viktor Bogdan, for attempting to defraud
tional fugitive is being held.
There were 227
BAGS OF AMBER stored under the cement layer
What are the aims of the LoveGold? LoveGold is a global digital destination and we seek to build relationships with young consumers wherever they are. The aim of LoveGold is a simple one: to inspire individuals with images of beautiful gold jewellery. What are the results of this project so far? How successful is it? LoveGold is only a year into its growth and has so far Sally Morrison (Managing Director, Jewellery, World Gold c ouncil), Photographer Mario t estino & Editor-in-c hief of Vogue China Angelica Cheung (at Vogue China’s 100th Issue Celebration) – Photo by Ted Wong
gathered over 300,000 followers across its channels such as Twitter, Instagram, Facebook and the Chinese social network Weibo. We are extremely proud of the designers and
Actress Michelle Dockery (at a LoveGold luncheon to celebrate her at Chateau Marmont) – Photo by John Sciulli (Jewellery: David Yurman)
other collaborators with whom we work and are delighted that the response to the jewellery we feature is so positive. How many jewellers are taking part in the project? From which countries are they? In our platform www.lovegold.com, we feature very many jewellers whose designs and craftsmanship we respect and admire. Those jewellers span the entire world, from North America, South America, the UK, France, Italy, Greece and Denmark to the other reach of the globe with designers in countries such as India and China. There is so much talent to be discovered and many more countries to explore, and we would encourage Baltic Jewellery News readers to reach out to us with suggestions of designers or gold jewellery pieces that they think should be featured on our platform and channels. How many awards has LoveGold already been nominated for? For only a-year-old brand, we were delighted to be nominated in January for a prestigious GEM Award for Communications and proud to be shortlisted for this award alongside brands Tiffany & Co and Tacori. What are the plans for the future? To continue to seek out the world’s most beautiful gold jewellery, the designers creating it and the people wearing it – and to extend the reach of our community.
“We Wo Uld e NCo Ur Age B Al TiC JeWeller Y NeWS re Ader S
to reach out to us with suggestions of designers or gold jewellery pieces that they think should be featured on our platform and channels” www.balticjewellerynews.com
JEWELLERY TRENDS JEWELLERY
LOVEGOLD – created to inspire
MAJOR JEWELLERY TRADE FAIRS
MAJOR TRADE FAIRS IN March 2014 – August 2014 XI International Baltic Jewellery Show Amber Trip Date: 12–15 March, 2014 Location: Vilnius, Lithuania www.ambertrip.com email@example.com
12th International Gold & Jewelry Exhibition 2014 Date: 21–26 April, 2014 Location: Mishref, Kuwait www.kif.net firstname.lastname@example.org
International Jewelry & Watch Show Abu Dhabi (JWS) Date: 13–17 March, 2014 Location: Abu Dhabi, United Arab Emirates www.adnec.ae email@example.com
Jewelry Fair Korea Date: 24–27 April, 2014 Location: Seoul, Korea www.jewelfair.com firstname.lastname@example.org
Amberif, International Fair of Amber, Jewellery and Gemstones Date: 19–22 March, 2014 Venue: Exhibition Center Gdansk, Gdansk, Poland www.mtgsa.com.pl email@example.com Istanbul Jewelry Show March Date: 20–23 March, 2014 Venue: CNR Expo Center, Istambul, Turkey www.istanbuljewelryshow.com firstname.lastname@example.org BASELWORLD 2014 Date: 27 March – 3 April, 2014 Location: Basel, Switzerland www.baselworld.com email@example.com Jewellery & Gem Fair Europe Date: 1–4 April, 2014 Locationa: Messe Freiburg,, Freiburg, Germany www.JGF-Europe.com firstname.lastname@example.org Oroarezzo Date: 5–8 April, 2014 Location: Arezzo, Italy www.oroarezzo.it email@example.com Aru-Almaty, 11 International Jewellery Fair Date: 10–13 April, 2014 Location: Almaty, Kazakhstan www.kazexpo.kz firstname.lastname@example.org
36th Mideast Watch & Jewellery Show 2014 Date: 29 April – 3 May, 2014 Location: Sharjah, United Arab Emirates www.mideastjewellery.com email@example.com Vicenzaoro Spring Date: 10–13 May, 2014 Location: Vicenza, Italy spring.vicenzaoro.com
IJK – International Jewellery Kobe 2014 Date: 14–16 May, 2014 Location: Tokyo, Japan www.ijk-fair.jp firstname.lastname@example.org Jewellery Expo Ukraine Date: 15–18 May, 2014 Location: Kiev, Ukraine www.kmkya.kiev.ua email@example.com G.L.D.A. Las Vegas Gem & Jewelry Show Date: 26–29 May, 2014 Location: Las Vegas, USA www.glda.com firstname.lastname@example.org New Russian Style Date: 28 May – 01 June, 2014 Location: Moscow, Russia www.eng.rjexpert.ru email@example.com CK Las Vegas Date: 30 May–02 June, 2014 Venue: Las Vegas, USA www.jckonline.com firstname.lastname@example.org
JUBINALE 2014 Date: 5–7 June, 2014 Venue: Krakow, Poland www.jubinale.com email@example.com Asia Fashion Jewellery & Accessories Fair-June Date: 19–22 June, 2014 Venue: HKCEC, Hong Kong http://www.asiafja.com firstname.lastname@example.org June Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair Date: 19–22 June, 2014 Venue: HKCEC, Hong Kong www.Jewellerynetasia.com email@example.com METS exhibition Date: 25–28 June, 2014 http://www.mets.hk/en/index.php firstname.lastname@example.org Jovella 2013 Date: 01–02 July, 2014 Venue: Tel Aviv, Israel www.stier.co email@example.com India International Jewellery Show Date: 17–21 July, 2013 Venue: Bombay Exhibition Centre, Mumbai, India www.iijs.org firstname.lastname@example.org Norwegian Gold & Ur Date: 21–24 August, 2014 Venue: Lillestrøm Exhibition's, Norway www.gull-og-ur-messe.no email@example.com Japan Jewellery Fair (JJF) Date: 26–28 August, 2014 Venue: Tokyo, Japan www.japanjewelleryfair.com firstname.lastname@example.org AMBERMART Date: 28–30 August, 2013 Venue: Gdansk, Poland www.mtgsa.com.pl email@example.com
Dear Readers, I am welcoming you to sunny August, just returning from a whole year planned vacation, and now you are rested, full of new energy and forces. Summer for most of our holiday time, when for a short time makes you want to break away from the carefully designed fast pace of life, business change agenda mild and pleasant relaxation with its closest humans ... just to be alone and relax. Our summer issue of the magazine as well as less business, it takes you to the wonderful world of art, introduse you to jewellery art events “Number 10. Victoria“ in Lithuania, “Legnica Festival of SILVER“ in Poland and the “Aqua Terra“ in Kaliningrad (Russia) over the jewelry art for events. We invite you to take a look at professional and distinctive styles of the artists from various countries, evaluate diverse jewelry art pieces created with infinitive imagination. Enjoy the works of the authors, who were already well-known and get to know new names. Find yourself a new idea here, get inspired. Also, you will learn about the most interesting and unexpected events of the 10th anniversary exhibition of Baltic jewelry “Amber Trip”. The region of Kaliningrad (Russia) remains the most scandalous neighbor in the Baltic region. The radical changes in makes to believe that the adopted programe for strategic development of amber jewelry industry eventually will give the results, and very soon we will have an international exhibition of amber. You never know, whether Gdansk should be worried, but they will have to share the name of the Amber Capital... This time the rubric of personalities introduces two authoritative figures who are recognized in the world of amber art, who are always warm and smiling – Virginija
and Kazimieras Mizgiriai from Lithuania. The International Amber Association awarded them with “The Best Partner of Amber Business 2012” award. I would like to congratulate jewelry companies that are celebrating the anniversaries. This year, “House of Amber” in Denmark is celebrating its 80th anniversary. It is one of the oldest and largest companies in the world that produce exquisite jewelry pieces. One of largest amber companies of Lithuania that are well known in the international world of amber “Amber by Mazukna” celebrating their 20th anniversary.
Have a nice reading! ANGELE JUODZEVICIENE Editor-in-Chief
Baltic Jewelllery News – 100 page magazine published in English, since 2005 and distributed in the whole Baltic Sea Region countries: Lithua...
Published on Mar 1, 2014
Baltic Jewelllery News – 100 page magazine published in English, since 2005 and distributed in the whole Baltic Sea Region countries: Lithua...