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E X C L U S I V E M A G A Z I N E F O R T H E J E W E L L E R Y B U S I N E S S I N T H E B A LT I C S E A R E G I O N

March 2014 (26)

FASTEST WAY TO THE BALTIC SEA REGION!


Dear Readers, Changes that happened in 2013 and in the beginning of 2014 are promising a brighter future for jewellery business. Let me go through some of these changes. A new team has come to Kaliningrad Amber Combine with new ideas and passion, and hopefully jewellers will not have to deal with amber shortage issues in the near future. This is discussed in an interview with people who will bring fresh air to amber industry. Kaliningrad Region RF Jewellery Report has more details on the subject. Overall gold and silver demand is increasing, and jewellery industry in Europe is getting back on its feet. This growth manifested itself with the new and big jewellery fair in April in Freiburg, Germany. Introduction of the new fair by the well-known jewellery fair organiser UBM Asia is a good sign for jewellery industry in Europe. Furthermore, after the successful tenth anniversary Baltic Jewellery Show “Amber Trip“ is heading for the second decade with more exhibitors and VIP buyers. In

it easier for me to enter this new role. Most importantly I

his interview Giedrius Guntorius reveals expectations and

thank all the contributors, who agreed to be interviewed by

plans for the second decade. China’s economy is continu-

us. Without you this issue would not have such a variety of

ously growing together with the growth of the middle-

topics and interesting insights. Baltic Jewellery News is also

class population with a big demand for amber jewellery

very grateful to all the sponsors and of course the readers

and other jewellery items. Vivian Yang kindly agreed to give

for their positive feedback.

us her insights into jewellery demand in China and shared her amber industry experience with us.

Enjoy the issue!

I extend my heartiest thanks to my predecessor Editor-inChief Angele Juodzeviciene, whose work well done made

Odilija GUNTORIUTE


CONTENT: March 2014 (26) Topicalities 4 7

Amber producers – to the Governor: give us raw material and we will revive the amber industry The volumes of illegal extraction of amber decreased by almost a third in a year in the Kaliningrad Region

Kaliningrad Region RF Jewellery Report

10

8

Mikhail Zatsepin – “We want to return Amber brand to Russia”

16

Amberif 2014, the 21st international Fair of Amber, Jewellery and Gemstones Gold Silver Time – Made to Measure Jewellery which uncovers the secrets of the past Due to the Fascination with Amber...

Polish Jewellery Report 19 24 26

Lithuanian Jewellery Report 32 36 38

Amber Trip is entering the second decade AAfter 20 years of experience in the amber jewellery business Aleksas Mazukna decided to bring some fresh air Jewellery business trends in Lithuania

Latvian Jewellery Report 44 50

Amber in contemporary art jewellery

51

Alberto Martini – Conquering Baltic States

Estonian Jewellery Report

33

German Jewellery Report 54 58

Gemworld Munich – Towards the end, Autumn shows its golden face Jewellery & Gem Fair Europe meets the industry’s demands

Danish Jewellery Report 60

The Midnight Tiara

62 64

The Nobel Jewellery Prize 2013 Precious, the leading watch and jewellery fair in the Nordic region

66

Jewellery connecting environment with people

Swedish Jewellery Report

Finnish Jewellery Report

94

Norwegian Jewellery Report 68

Chinese Jewellery Report 72

Chinas’ hunger for Amber – how long will it last?


Ukrainian Jewellery Report 77 78

Abundance of bright events at the Jeweller Expo Ukraine 2013 international exhibition Prospects for the Ukrainian legal market of Amber

81

JUNWEX – jewellery celebration in St. Petersburg

St. Petersburg Jewellery Report Worldwide Report 82 83 84 85 86 88

The worldwide price for Raw Amber The worldwide price for Amber Silver 925 Jewellery The worldwide Gold price Istanbul Jewelry Show March – The Largest March Edition To Date Presenting International Amber Association

92

RIACETECH. Listening and paying attention to details

Technology Personality 94

With Amber for almost half a century!

98

Dr. Madeleine Albright will take your questions

102

The “Amber room”, worth a billion roubles, found in Kaliningrad region

98 103

Jewellery as a Statement Jewellery Crime

Other 103 104 105 106 107

LoveGold – created to inspire, Major Jewellery Trade Fairs Caricature. Silk Road – Amber Trip Advertisement in “Baltic Jewellery News“ Subscription Form

108

Application Form for XI International Baltic Jewellery Show “Amber Trip”

Baltic Jewellery News/ March 2014 (26) Ausros Vartu str. 15–5, LT-01129, Vilnius, Lithuania Tel.: +370 5 2120823; fax: +370 5 2608497; E-mail.: info@balticjewellerynews.com Editor-in-chief/ODILIJA GUNTORIUTE /+370 5 2120823; E-mail: office@balticjewellerynews.com Designer/DANA SMITIENE/

Translator/VERTIMU GURU/ CIRCULATION 4000

Reporter: Lithuania: O. Guntoriute/ office@balticjewellerynews.com; V. Zygiene/ virginijaz@gmail.com; Poland: A. Sado/ anna. sado@amber.com.pl; Denmark: Ole Lynggaard Copenhagen/ pernille@olelynggaard.dk; Sweden: Åsa Dahlqvist/ asa. dahlqvist@preciousfair.se; Sanna Svedestedt & Karin Roy Andersson/ info@diagonalartprojects.com; Technology: Elena Aiello/ sales@riacetech.com; Jewellery as a statement: AJF Members/ editor@artjewelryforum.org;

Distribution in the whole Baltic Sea Region Population over 80 million Copyright: Contents of “Baltic Jewellery News” are copyright. ISSN 2335-2132 Reproduction of material in part or in whole is no permitted in any form without the written authorization of the publisher. The editorial office is not responsible for the content of advertisements and for the accuracy of the facts presented by the authors.

We invite all those whose interests are related to our goals to join our project. Only with the help of various discussions perspective of the jewellery business of the region can become clear and the magazine – better. Thank you for the cooperation!


TOPICALITIES

AMBER PRODUCERS – TO THE GOVERNOR:

give us raw material and we will revive the amber industry

T

By Klops.ru amber for processing, and some of them – for selling pur-

he amber producers are still complaining about the lack of amber raw material. On 25 December, Wednesday, at the meeting that was organized

all companies, we reviewed the numbers of employees,

by the Governor of the region in the Amber Combine,

who are working therein, and the equipment used for

Vasilij Simonov, the chairperson of Kaliningrad Regional

processing, and currently the process of amber sale de-

Non-Governmental Organisation of Businessmen Amber

pends on their capacities of production”. “The result is evident. If you compare the conferences

Union, stated that the most important factor for the de-

of the previous year and of the current year, they totally differ”, – said the Governor Nikolaj Cukanov. At that time

of raw material. Local government repeatedly asserted that amber obtained in Kaliningrad region must be processed by local

the issues of illegal mining have arose, the present-day

amber producers. However, the businessmen said that

issues differ absolutely. The work is going on further, requirements are being followed, virtually, all orders are be-

of raw amber from the Amber factory. According to him, the volumes of amber processing in

“Many fake businessmen appeared and they buy am-

the region increased by 30%.

ber not for processing purposes, but sale”, – stated Mr. -

“We have to do what the producers were talking

ducers sell amber for the amount of millions in Poland,

about today – to bring order within. When 18 tonnes

Lithuania, China, while the ones with up to 60 producers

are being transported in “pockets” to Russia, and sub-

get only ten kilograms of amber?”

sequently to China, order must be brought. We have to

According to customs data, 18 t of raw amber have

supply our producers with raw amber as much as they are

been exported from the region from the beginning of the

capable of processing, instead of selling”, – emphasized

year, while amber output was 500 kg only.

the Governor. Kaliningrad Amber Combine is the only company in

“Places in the list of purchasers are being sold in the

the world engaged in industrial mining of amber.

combine. Raw amber is being sold for those, who does

Amber mining takes place on the coast of the Baltic

not need it, and then to others for higher amounts of

Sea. According to experts’ data, 90% of “sunstone” re-

money”, – stated Mr. Simonov.

serves in the world are located near the Yantarny village.

In turn, Michail Zacepin, the acting director general of

The company was established in 1947. Currently the

the combine, noted that the data presented by producers

combine belongs to the state corporation Rostech. “The supply procedure is going on in accordance with the plan. We restricted the supply in the last month, because a lot of re-sellers have appeared, – said Michail Zacepin. – When we noticed that some businessmen buy

www.balticjewellerynews.com

4


Extraction of Amber Decreased by Almost a Third in a Year in the Kaliningrad Region Report by Federal OfďŹ cial Institution The State Assay Chamber of Russia At the Ministry of Finance of the Russian Federation

T

his year the law enforcement bodies have notably enhanced the struggle against the illegal extraction of the sun's stone. In result, the level of illegal

amber extraction has reduced almost in 30% in a year. This estimation has been provided by Nikolai Tsukanov,

Governor of the Kaliningrad Region. According to the press service of the regional government, Nicholas Cukanov has also indicated that the measures to decriminalize the industry that have been adopted this year have been effective. The amendments of the KoAP (Code of Administrative Offences) that were introduced in February created the opportunity not only tools of extraction, for example, expensive pumps. The governor indicated that the main event of the year customs clearance of amber. Since July of this year, amber dealers have been released from the time and money consuming obligation to formalise examination and cerproducts from amber and precious metals through the customs. Under the conditions of the experiment, the customs control is carried out on the basis of usual business practice documents.

TOPICALITIES

THE VOLUMES OF ILLEGAL


KALININGRAD REGION RF JEWELLERY REPORT

MIKHAIL ZATSEPIN –

“WE WANT TO RETURN AMBER BRAND TO RUSSIA” Interview of Odilija GUNTORIUTE with Mikhail ZATSEPIN. of the Amber Combine is seriously determined to return amber brand to Russia. Of course, these changes have affected the global market. You will learn about how things are going in the amber industry, what has changed in the enterprise as a result of the change of management, and what the industry should expect in the near future, from the interview with Mikhail Zatsepin, Acting Director General of Kaliningrad Amber Combine. Mikhail Ivanovich, you became the head of Amber Combine in August last year. What changes have occurred in the company in relation with the change of management? The Amber Combine has more than changed its manager, it changed the owner. Ministry of Finance has transferred the company to the State Corporation “Rostekhnologii”. This Russian corporation comprises Mikhail Zatsepin, Acting Director General of Kaliningrad Amber Combine

L

many unique production units and technologies, a major is a reliable partner of the state for innovative industry

ast summer’s appointment of new management

development. This has become the base point for upgrad-

for Kaliningrad Amber Combine – the world's

ing the unique amber extraction company and, thus, the

only company engaged in the commercial produc-

entire amber industry. First and foremost, the emphasis was the technical re-equipment of the Amber Combine.

throughout the amber industry. Drastic changes have

Scientists of the largest research institutes have explored

redounded upon policy of "sun stone" sales both with

the possibilities of old equipment and developed new

regard to domestic and foreign manufacturers of amber products. Much attention has been paid to the position-

and quality of amber extraction. Soon, we will introduce

ing of the Kaliningrad Region as a centre of global mining

them into practice.

and processing amber industry. The region took on cre-

Do you mean that existing amber production

ating new jobs and new businesses producing jewellery,

technologies of the enterprise impair the quality of

souvenirs, and other articles of “sun stone.” Management

the raw amber extracted?

www.balticjewellerynews.com

8


concentrated, did not have any opportunity to buy raw materials and create amber products. Today, some of

decades passed by, and the equipment was not updat-

them have managed to survive and overcome this stage;

ed. Today, we are faced with the fact that a large part of

others start from scratch. But it became possible now for

amber is crushed during the mining process; many large

the local producers to apply to the plant for purchasing

rocks split and develop cracks. Therefore, a full stone loses

amber and buying raw materials at cost. At the moment,

its initial form. We seek to maximally preserve the origi-

it is one of the key changes in the enterprise. Of course,

nal appearance of amber, so that it, after passing through

the company has much to modernize and improve in this

all stages of production, could fall in hands of a crafts-

area yet, nevertheless, I may safely say that Kaliningrad

man in condition it had rested in the earth. I believe the

producers will be supplied with the raw material on a pri-

latest technology is capable to deal successfully with the

ority basis.

task – to preserve unique samples of amber and to protect

That is, priority is given to local producers? And

the fragile “solar stone” against adverse effects of rough

what about Lithuanian, Polish processers from oth-

machinery.

er countries who are also engaged in production of jewellery, souvenirs, and other articles using

Today, there are many opinions on the new pol-

Kaliningrad amber?

icy of the Amber Combine. Tell us how are the company’s activities organised now?

We see the solution of this problem in the establish-

Today, we mainly focus on selling amber to local

ment of joint ventures. Foreign manufacturers found en-

processers. Former long-lasting schemes inhibited the

terprises in the Kaliningrad Region together with partners

Kaliningrad processers from buying the raw amber di-

from Russia; they are provided with the required amount

rectly from the plant. They were forced to use various

of raw materials for production, and start easy operations.

schemes, including illegal, so that to get amber for work.

In other industries, this practice has excellently proved it-

This was quite a paradox: local producers, who lived just participation in the amber industry as well.

in the area, with all the world reserves of the "solar stone"

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9

KALININGRAD REGION RF JEWELLERY REPORT

At that date, when this equipment was introduced, it was considered the advanced technology. However,


KALININGRAD REGION RF JEWELLERY REPORT

What is the interest of foreign producers and how might processers, whose plants are located in the territory of the Kaliningrad Region, react? First of all, foreign processers, starting up their businesses in our territory, would receive raw materials for operations. Another advantage is a tax optimization. Foreign manufacturers will be able to expand the sales area, to sell amber goods in the territory of Russia. Local processers will take advantage of expanding their production units, creating new jobs, sharing experiences. No surprise that joint ventures tend to attract new technologies, additional maincrease in tax revenues in the region and the country itself. What is the purpose of these activities? We realise the fact that amber is considered a heritage not only of the Kaliningrad Region, but the neighbouring Baltic countries, including Poland and Lithuania, as well. Yet, according to experts, about 90 percent of the world's amber is deposited in Russia, namely, in the Kaliningrad Region, and we are proud of it. It so happened that, until recently, while running the world's only company in the commercial production of the “solar stone,” our region failed to develop amber processing practices to the desiraThe Combine's seaside quarry, this is where amber is mined on industrial scale

ble extent. It had various reasons, and let it pass now. Our today’s task – setting up new businesses by local producers in the Kaliningrad Region, attraction of jewellers and artists who would design exclusive jewellery and items of amber, by praising this unique stone. But the Kaliningrad Region is anyway named “the land of amber” today. The bottom line is that we want to return amber brand to Russia. I suppose that being known as “the land of amber” is not enough just because we possess the unique de-

Amber deposits in a layer of blue clay, the depth of "solar stone" depositing in the Amber Combine's seaside quarry is about 50 meters

posit. It should be proved out the way we use these generous gifts of nature. After all, amber is unique indeed. And every visitor to the Kaliningrad Region should satisfy himself with this, admire the beauty, grandeur, and extraordinary properties of amber. Meanwhile, local residents should be proud of living in the “the land of amber”. Should there be any changes in the policy with neighbouring countries who’ve been regarding amber a pride and a national treasure since long ago? I know that amber is called the “Baltic gold” in Lithuania and Poland – it is considered there a holy stone, praised in every way and used to create truly exclusive articles. We

Amber processing at a subsidiary plant JSC “Amber Yuvelirprom”

actually have much to learn from our nearest neighbours. And we largely have to master the route that you have already travelled through. But we hope that this “amber

www.balticjewellerynews.com

10


route” would make us allies rather than rivals. Amber is should build up the work so that no one stands back and everyone is happy. Again, our main focus of supply of raw materials today is Kaliningrad processers, and that is why it was decided at this phase to invite concerned foreign companions to pursue their amber business in Russia, by creating joint ventures in the Kaliningrad Region. In the near future, do you plan any major activities in the Kaliningrad Region associated with the development of amber industry in Russia? Amber Industry Forum “Amber World,” to be held from 11 to 13 July 2014. The exhibitors will be over 200 manufacturers of amber products from Russia, Lithuania, Poland, Ukraine, India, and other countries. Amber Combine is one of the organizers of this exhibition. As part of the “Amber World” Show, our company will hold an auction of large raw amber stones. Also, the Forum will include onstration of machinery for the industry, an auction of “solar” stone jewellery, and more. Everyone is welcomed to the exhibition. We hope that visitors from neighbouring countries will also become active participants of the “Amber World”, as well as it is always a great pleasure for us to regularly attend your exhibitions and conferences dedicated to amber.

KALININGRAD OBLAST (RUSSIAN FEDERATION) Administrative center Kaliningrad Russian Currency Ruble (RUB); 1 EUR – 49.98 RUB Time zone (USZ1 (UTC+03:00) Area 15 100 km 2 Population (2013) 954 978 Government Federal semi-presidential republic Governor Nikolay Tsukanov President Vladimir Putin GDP (PPP) Per capita 15 570 EUR Ethnic groups Latvia 86.4% Russians Lithuania 13.6% Others Largest cities Kaliningrad Oblast Kaliningrad 431 100 (Russian Federation) Chernyakhovsk 51 771 Belarus Sovetsk 42 619 Poland


POLISH JEWELLERY REPORT

AMBERIF 2014, the st

21 International Fair of Amber, Jewellery and Gemstones

M

Report by Amberif press office ore than 450 exhibitors from 12 countries will

“We look forward to receiving AMBERIF trade visitors,

come to AMBERIF 2014, the International Fair

with an expected turnout of about 6000 buyers from

of Amber, Jewellery and Gemstones. In previ-

more than 50 countries, who come to Gdańsk for am-

ous years, the event regularly attracted more than 6,000

ber, unique amber and silver jewellery and also to look

trade visitors from more than 50 countries. As a trade-on-

for original designer jewellery with silver and gemstones.

ly event, AMBERIF is addressed mainly to jewellery stores,

This year, under the Ministry of Economy’s programme to promote Polish jewellery abroad,

wholesalers and art galleries. The products showcased at

we will host a Buyers Study Tour

AMBERIF include: Baltic amber

from four countries: the USA,

jewellery; silver and gold jewellery

Germany, Italy and China,” an-

decorated with amber; silver, gold

nounced Ewa Rachoń. Under the

and platinum jewellery; jewellery

programme, the latest edition of

with gemstones, pearls and dia-

the popular Trend Book 2014+ by

monds. There will be diamonds,

Prof Sławomir Fijałkowski, Gdańsk

gemstones and watches, decora-

Academy of Fine Arts, will be pub-

tive and functional amber items, imported jewellery, hol-

lished by the Polish Chamber of Amber Commerce.

lowware and jewellery packaging. The Designers’ Gallery

Each year, AMBERIF is accompanied by many education

is a perennial favourite; this year it will host more than

and popular science events. For example, it features a se-

70 artists who work in various techniques and materials.

ries of seminars dedicated to subjects that are important to

Organised in partnership with the Goldsmithing Artists’

jewellery and amber experts and enthusiasts. There is the

Association (STFZ), the Gallery is the heart and soul of the

Amber Laboratory, where every AMBERIF customer may not

Polish school of design. As always, jewellery industry mathe type of amber they’ve purchased – all free of charge.

chines and the latest technologies will also be featured. It is no coincidence that the world’s largest amber

The SRJ Association of Jewellery Experts organises a gem-

trade show takes place in Gdańsk: with its Hanse tradi-

mology seminar in partnership with HRD Antwerp. This is

tion, located on the Baltic Sea coast, Gdańsk is known as

where the Gem and Jewelry Institute of Thailand will pre-

the World Capital of Amber.

sent quality standards for rubies and sapphires.

“Not everyone knows that Poland is the leading sup-

AMBERIF exhibitors will, as always, compete for the

plier of silver worldwide,” says AMBERIF Project Director

Minister of Economy’s Grand Prix, by submitting their work

Ewa Rachoń, “and that the Gdańsk region has more than

to the strict evaluation of the Mercurius Gedanensis inter-

600 businesses and jewellery studios which specialise in

national judging panel. For the 17th time, the designer

silver jewellery decorated with amber. It is precisely based

community from all over the world is invited to participate

on the local jewellery handicraft that AMBERIF originated

in the Amberif Design Award. This year’s ADA subject is

and developed.”

Materia Prima. An international jury of renowned artists

We expect more than 450 companies from Poland,

and the valuable prize from the Mayor of Gdańsk have for

Belgium, the Czech Republic, Germany, Greece, Hong

years encouraged participation from both students of the

Kong, Italy, Latvia, Lithuania, Thailand, Turkey and Ukraine.

best jewellery design schools and celebrated designers.

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16


POLISH JEWELLERY REPORT

Gold Silver Time 2013 is open: the ribbon was ceremoniously cut by art historian Irena HUML, president of the SWBJ Polish Association of Jewellery Industry Exhibitors Stefan DUK and singer and Amber Rose honouree Justyna STECZKOWSKA

T

he Gold Silver Time Jewellery and Watch Trade

their work attracts such remarkable interest. Polish design

Show is a leading event for Poland’s jewellery and

is highly valued worldwide for its fresh ideas, creativity

watch industry. Its organisers have set a consist-

and openness to experiment with materials and textures.

ent goal to consolidate GST’s image and to promote the exhibitors and their products, in contribution to building

have been appreciated by the Polish Ministry of Economy,

a recognisable brand for Polish jewellery both in Poland

which since 2001 has been conferring the Minister of

and worldwide.

Economy’s Gold Silver Time Best Product Award. At the

The Warsaw-based show will feature three currently

previous edition of the show, three awards were present-

dominating trends: classics, design and fashion, the last of

ed (instead of the usual one). The winners were: Amber-

which is developing the most dynamically, because follow-

Ring Stanisław Całka, Paragon Dariusz Grzenkowski and

ing fashion trends is the key to business success also in the

Ostrowski Design Jacek Ostrowski. “It is a remarkable

jewellery industry. The classical trend features mainly gold

distinction for our exhibitors. We are very happy that

with diamonds and gemstones and silver with natural and

their contribution to promoting Polish design and tech-

synthetic stones. Designer and original jewellery trends

nology in international markets has been acknowledged

are set by the jewellery makers themselves – that is why

and recognised. I hope that also this year there will be

Growing numbers of visitors from Asia, with interest focused mainly on Baltic amber

Gold Silver Time is also an opportunity for retail customers

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20


MCT International Fair Centre, which together with the PSP Visual Arts Studio organises Gold Silver Time. amber industry at the time of the economic slowdown has come from the Ministry’s 2012–2015 support programme, with funding available for, among others, trade missions of Polish companies abroad and foreign trade visitors coming to Poland, advertising campaigns in the consumer press and on billboards and participation in selected trade exhibitions in Warsaw, Gdańsk, Munich, Hong Kong, Las Vegas, Tucson and Vicenza. The programme is run by the Amber-Treasure of Poland Consortium: the MCT International Fair Centre, the MTG SA Gdańsk International Fair Co., the KIGB Polish Chamber of Amber Commerce and the S&A Company. Under the programme, in 2014 GST will be visited by an international press mission, there will be jewellery shows from the participating companies and the number of amber sector exhibitors will increase. Today, GST is perceived as a tried and true form of business communication for the jewellery and watch industry. Even in these economically challenging times, the event has not experienced any visible drop in the exhibitor or visitor attendance, which is proof of its stable market standing. “We have noticed that businesses are coping by responding quicker and more effectively to its needs. And this gives us hope for the coming edition to be at least as good as the previous one. All the more eagerly we invite global jewelery and watchmaking industry to the Gold Silver Time – fair that is a proven method of business communication”, says Rafał Galimski. In 2014, as in the preceding year, the organisers expect about 300 exhibitors and ca. 6000 visitors.

The interest in the GST Show remains as great as ever

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21

POLISH JEWELLERY REPORT

A jewellery show developed by the Amber. Treasure of Poland Consortium. Image: Jewellery from Marcin Zaremski.

three winners because the line of deserving companies is really long”, explains Rafał Galimski, president of the


POLISH JEWELLERY REPORT

Due to THE FASCINATION with Amber... By Anna SADO Editor of the Amber Portal www.amber.com.pl

T

he Amber Museum, which was opened last sum-

his adventure with amber as a jeweller – the knowledge of

mer, alongside with the Boruni Galleries and the

the craft helps to evaluate not only the aesthetic and inno-

Amber Portal amber.com.pl have formed “the am-

vative value of jewellery, but also the quality of its execu-

ber empire” of Tomasz Mikołajczyk – Mikołajczyki Amber.

tion. He is famous within the industry for his attentive eye

Its aim is to strengthen the Boruni brand through promot-

and for being partial to the works by renowned designers

ing natural amber and products decorated with it. The

– though he buys with an intention to resell the products,

achievements in that sphere are truly impressive. “I have been fascinated with amber for a long time and I wish to show others what has allured me in this

consists of many unique works of renowned Polish art-

stone” – says Tomasz Mikołajczyk who has been running

ists such as Paulina Binek, Jacek Baron, Jacek Sumeradzki,

the chain of Boruni galleries for over 20 years. He started

Janusz Wosik, Mariusz Gliwiński, Elżbieta and Marek Pawłowski, or Magdalena and Tomasz Stajczak. The prod-

 Tomasz Mik Ołajczyk

ucts are extraordinary due to the uniqueness of the amber blocks and inimitable form of the frames. The were created over the last two decades, and today they are still enchanting with their timeless beauty and patinated amber. Some of the products from the collection have found their appropriate place at the Amber Museum in Cracow, a private enterprise of Tomasz Mikołajczyk, where they are a contemporary benchmark for the currently presented exhibition “Amber – Its Beauty and History”. The exhibition was prepared by the Museum of the Earth by the Polish Academy of Sciences in Warsaw. However, the most beautiful of the most beautiful works – both in terms of highest level of artistic craft and the most fascinating natural forms – have been included in the Collection Supernatural and they are presented at the Boruni Gallery, belonging to the Museum. The Boruni Galleries have always stood thanks to their carefully selected amber product range: jewellery, sculptures, or usable objects. Now the time has come to further

I wish TO SHOW OTHERS what has allured me in this stone

of galleries, at the European scale, where the most beauti-

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26


POLISH JEWELLERY REPORT

 Boruni Gallery purpose of the museum is to promote the natural beauty of amber and what is widely understood, by education. The exhibition “Amber – Its Beauty and History” provides a lot of information about amber creation, the history of its mining and treatment up until to the present day, and at the Amber Laboratory one can check the authenticity of the stone. “Amber is currently so highly valued and

authenticity any more, there's a need for advanced technology and we have it” – explains Tomasz Mikołajczyk. designed and registered hologram with a number. Such est end of the price range offered at the Boruni Gallery. The purchase of products of other price ranges at the Boruni Gallery are also safe as all the products have been examined before. The aim of what is widely understood by education is also implemented by the Amber Portal amber.com. pl which also belongs to the Mikołajczyki Amber. It has been so effective that in March 2010 the owner, Tomasz Mikołajczyk and the Editor in Chief Anna Sado have been

 A horse by Jacek Sumeradzki

awarded the Medals of the President of the City of Gdańsk for their contribution in promoting amber, the amber in-

ful, individual products made of natural Baltic amber will

dustry and Gdańsk – the World Capital of Amber. The

be offered” – declares the owner of galleries. The inspira-

International Amber Association awarded the title of the

tion to build a new image of the galleries was primarily

Amber Personality of the Year 2010 to the Editor in Chief

observing the market, which is receptive to unique prod-

Anna Sado, and a Crystal Medal to Tomasz Mikołajczyk,

ucts in the premium sector.

for many years of his contribution to promoting amber in

The image of the Boruni Galleries, as a unique place is

2011, and the prestigious title of the Amber Personality of

meant to be also highlighted by the Amber Museum. The

the Year 2012.

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28


 Lady with an Ermine by Bogumiła & Marian k elar

 A mechanical bracelet by Jacek Baron

“The amber empire” is constantly developing and at the same time it contributes to promoting amber and amber art as well as showing the new directions of development in the sector and in the amber trade.

THE AMBER MUSEUM 2, Św. Jana Street 31–018 Kraków tel.: +48 513 511 512, 601 824 646 open every day from 10 am to 8 pm admission free

www.ambermuseum.eu

REPUBLIC OF POLAND EU, NATO, Hallmarking Convention Capital Warsaw Polish Currency Złoty (PLN); 1 EUR – 4.1885 PLN Time zone CET (UTC+1) – Summer (DST) CEST (UTC+2) Area – 312 685 km 2 Population (2012) 38 273 582 Government Parliamentary republic President Bronisław Komorowski Latvia Prime Minister Donald Tusk GDP (PPP) Per capita (2012) 16 527 EUR Lithuania Ethnic groups Kaliningrad 91.6% Poles Region 8.4% others Belarus Largest cities Warsaw 1 716 855 Poland Krakov 755 546 Lodz 739 832 Ukraine

www.balticjewellerynews.com

29

POLISH JEWELLERY REPORT

My aim is TO CREATE A UNIQUE CHAIN OF GALLERIES, at the European scale, where the most beautiful, individual products made of NATURAL BALTIC AMBER will be offered


LITHUANIAN JEWELLERY REPORT

AMBER TRIP IS ENTERING THE SECOND DECADE

In mid-March, like every year, the “Amber Trip” – the largest international jewellery show in the Baltic countries – is opening. This year, the decade-years-old show is held for the 11th time. “We have achieved our goals – Vilnius has become the capital of the Baltic jewellery. We have created our own history and traditions, yet, we did not stop there – we treat the new decade like a new page and even more challenging start: we’ll seek to further expand, to improve in order to place the show organization to a higher level both in terms of quality of products and its presentation” says the head of the show organizing company “Amber Trip” Giedrius Gun TOr IuS.

Interview of Virginija ZYGIENE with Giedrius GUNTORIUS This

year,

the

largest

International

Baltic

Jewellery Show “Amber Trip” is taking place the 11th time. What goals have You set for the new decade? The show has been living for as much as 11 years; it has undergone more than one crisis and, still, has survived; therefore, both local and foreign markets, obviously, need it. I am happy that the show's organizers have CEO of “Amber Trip” Giedrius Guntorius: “Vilnius became the capital of the Baltic region jewellery, ahead of cities such as Tallinn, Riga, or Kaliningrad”

achieved their main objectives – to make amber popular and to bring professional articles of jewellery from around the world to the event. Vilnius became the capital of the

show that is also a meaningful estimate of the show.

Baltic region jewellery, ahead of cities such as Tallinn,

We have created our own history and traditions, yet,

Riga, or Kaliningrad. Joint efforts of everyone around (I mean market sellers

we did not stop there – we treat the new decade like a

and buyers) to hold the show make its organisation easy.

new page and even more challenging start: we’ll seek to further expand, to improve in order to place the show

needs an organizer (in this case – the company “Amber

organization to a higher level both in terms of quality of

Trip”) for collecting all information and considering the

products and its presentation. How does “Amber Trip” Show stand out among

needs of all participants. However, it is safe to say that

other jewellery exhibitions?

real organizers of the show are market players themselves since the state allocates no funds on the show organisa-

jewellery exhibition in the Baltic States, involving repre-

tion. Vilnius City Municipality is the annual sponsor of the

www.balticjewellerynews.com

32


As I’ve already mentioned, during the show, representatives from various countries will share their insights

Show attracts companies from Poland, Russia, Lithuania,

about the jewellery business trends around the world.

Latvia, Estonia, Turkey, and other countries. Among the

Representatives of Kaliningrad Amber Combine will also

exhibitors, there are about 60 pct of amber businesses,

share their forecasts what to expect in the raw amber

about 40 pct of professional Baltic jewellers, and other

market. At the “Amber Trip,” there will be presented the lat-

specialists of this area from around the world, who are

est technology and modern machinery. The Show is also

going to present their articles in Lithuania. The show is also attended by representatives of large

proud to present you international jewellery art contest

companies from various countries. For example, we have

“5D,” which will involve jewellers from Lithuania, Latvia,

guests from China, who are currently buying up any-

Estonia, Finland, the Netherlands, Poland, Germany, and other countries. In addition, it became a beautiful tradition to show remarkable or historical articles of jewellery.

America, where amber demand is rising again, and, of course, from Europe. Every day, the exhibition is visited

Last year, on anniversary, we had 10 articles; this year,

by over 200 major customers (so-called VIP) from Japan,

there will be 11 of them presented. How has “Amber Trip” Show changed during the

America, China, the Arab world – they come here to make

last 10 years?

transactions for the whole year ahead. “Amber Trip” Show, compared with worldwide jewellery exhibitions, is quite small, so, we seek to invite the

Town Hall – now, the show is arranged in “Radisson Blue

best exhibitors.

Hotel”. During all these years, the show has experienced both “growing” and “shrinking”: during the very crisis (in

A particularly important fact is that “Amber Trip” is

2009–2010), it was greatly reduced; now, it reached the thus, suggesting trends for the amber and jewellery mar-

pre-crisis times.

they should expect in this market. Situation in the amber

number of exhibitor stands has increased or how many

and jewellery market remains complicated.

square meters the exhibition space has increased per dec-

Our estimates should not be limited to how much the

Please tell us more about this year's show.

ade. However, we can really be proud of the fact that,

We are very excited that “Amber Trip” Show, which

every year, amber and jewellery businesses have the op-

-

portunity to show their works in Vilnius and that not every

augurated by the new Director General of Kaliningrad

industry holds its own exhibition in this region. After all,

Amber Combine (“Kaliningradskiy Yantarny Kombinat“), the world each month, and each company in this business

Michail Zacepin. The preliminary agreement with this fac-

must choose a strategy in which region it wants to operate. Thus, we can rightly be proud that major companies

Kaliningrad Region of Russia as well, thus, enabling them to introduce Europe, and in future – the rest of the world

motivation to work in the Baltic region.

– to their products.

www.balticjewellerynews.com

33

LITHUANIAN JEWELLERY REPORT

sentatives of the global jewellery market who work both with amber and other forms of jewellery. “Amber Trip”


LITHUANIAN JEWELLERY REPORT

After 20 years of experience in the amber jewellery business ALEKSAS MAZUKNA decided to bring some fresh air “Family, amber roots, traditions, and the Baltic

of the company means my personal direct responsibility

Sea – the main reasons, why I have decided

for the success and fairness of the business created by me.

to move to live and work in Palanga”, – said

I have always wanted to live and work in Palanga, be-

Aleksas Mazukna, entering the amber jewellery

cause of amber traditions, ‘bohemia’ and ‘philosophy’. Of

market with the company Amber Alex.

course, amber ‘philosophy’ in commercial aspect is not as much developed here as in other places, but amber pro-

Interview of Virginija ZYGIENE with Aleksas MAZUKNA

cessing traditions in its essence live in Palanga. I really like the Baltic Sea. There is no other place in Lithuania, where you can have a half-hour walking on the

What inspired you to renew – to form a new

seaside during your lunch break. I wanted such walking on

team of amber specialists and enter the market un-

the beach to become an everyday instead of a holiday rou-

der the new name?

tine. Moving to Palanga means a comeback to family roots

As a result of disagreement on the approaches to the

and traditions: even three previous generations of my

team, work and company development, I sold the share-

spouse lived in Palanga and the majority of them has been

holding of the company Amber by Mazukna. I established

working with amber up to the present day. Therefore,

the company Amber Alex in Palanga,

our decision was not a coincidental

-

decision, it was supported by family members and relatives.

sions and work. Amber specialists, who had been working in my for-

On the other hand, the amber

mer company for many years, con-

market in Palanga is the place where

tinue to work in the team with new

amber traditions are alive. Palanga is

members.

probably the only place all over the world, where the market is open

The name of the company – Amber Alex

every Saturday, unfortunately we do

activity. My name used in the name

not appreciate it. -

 Alesas Mazukna with his client

ber sellers and manufacturers here;

Japanese company “Kohaku Koubou” president Kaoru Tagawa

and amber is the essence of their lives as well as mine.

www.balticjewellerynews.com

36


ticipated in the international jewellery exhibition in Japan IJT 2014 (International Jewellery Tokyo 2014). We have al-

for the following 5 years?

ready been taking part in this exhibition for 15 years, but

The production facilities of the new manufactory will We met our business partners, presented the new name

cover 1.5 thousand sq. m., the construction and installa-

and the team of the company, and we found new partners at the exhibition.

to our plan, up to 100 workplaces will be created in the

How many exhibitions do you visit in a year?

manufactory Amber Alex. I am a specialist. So I will continue working in the same

We visit about ten exhibitions in a year. The exhibi-

market – I will be doing what I have been doing before.

tions are held in Japan, China, USA, Poland, and there are

Our aim is to take a strong position in the market, to be

new markets we are interested in. Amber Trip is a perfect exhibition, featuring a par-

visible and offer new ideas to our customers, and exhibit

ticularly pleasant environment, where family cosiness is

the unique beauty of amber to them. Will you continue working on the same classical

felt. These are the things, similar to the ones that have

artworks, you have been selling before? Or you will

attracted me to move to Palanga. After all, large exhibi-

renew the assortment?

tions are loosing their touch. We simply do not manage to participate everywhere due to a lack of time.

We will be further producing classical jewellery, i.e. we will not change the products we have been selling up

What is your place in amber jewellery business?

to the present day. But we will also start producing art-

What would the alternative work be if not working

works of new design, which, in our opinion, will be at-

with amber? I have never cogitated such issue. Other people, but

tractive to our customers. The customers buy our amber

not me, should tell about me. Importantly, people believe

jewellery due to the exclusive quality and price.

in me – in my works, words, actions and vision. I particu-

Classics will always persist, it never goes out of fash-

larly appreciate their support. Sometimes they even help lack of amber in the market, customers particularly assess I will continue working with amber. It is a lifestyle.

high quality and price of classical jewellery artworks. What are the countries, you have already found

Each amber stone is different, each customer and each

business partners in? Does the renewal promote

artwork are different as well. There is no monotony in

looking for new customers abroad?

this work, there is nothing exhausting, the life and work

The major partners of our business are in Japan, China,

are diverse and frisky. In addition, I have to travel much

America, and the European Union member countries. We

around the world, I do not have time for stopping. The

will continue working with current partners, and will be

only way for me is to go forward! Thank you for the conversation and wish you

looking for the new ones in other countries.

success.

This year, on the 22–25 of January Amber Alex par-

Aleksas Mazukna in International Jewellery Tokyo (IJT) 2014

www.balticjewellerynews.com

37

LITHUANIAN JEWELLERY REPORT

How many workers are working in your new manufactory? What are your plans and expectations


LITHUANIAN JEWELLERY REPORT

Report by Virginija PAVALKIENE Head of Legal – Inspection Division of Lithuanian Assay Office

L

Jewellery BUSINESS TRENDS in Lithuania How long does hallmarking take in Lithuania?

public body) authorised to perform the supervision

Hallmarking of 1–10 units takes up to 1 hour.

of precious metals and gemstones in Lithuania.

Hallmarking 10,000 or more units takes up to several days. In each case the hallmarking time (period) is dis-

has never been a budgetary institution, therefore it does

cussed and agreed with the customer. The demand of

not receive any state budget appropriations and “lives”

services for higher value and therefore more expensive

on the revenue generated for provided services of assay

jewellery products has increased by 19%.

and jewel analysis.

How important is jewellery marking to Lithuanian Hallmarking prices

customers?

Hallmarking price of 1 gram of gold.

In Lithuania the consumers’ interest in jewellery mark-

LTL 2.15 per piece + 0.9 Lt per gram = total LTL 3.05 stamped on the product, what it must be stamped by,

(EUR 0.88). If 1000 or more pieces of imported items of the same

what hallmark guarantees the purity of the product, etc.

hallmark are submitted for hallmarking, you get a 10%

Most buyers are aware and understand that such num-

discount.

bers as “585” on the product does not prove that the

Average prices (LTL) per 1 (one) gram for golden items do not certify the purity.

of 585 hallmark and silver items of 925 hallmark in the Lithuanian retail market in 2010-2013 are given below

A great achievement is that customers are interested

(EUR 1 = LTL 3.4528). (See statistics in Figure 1 and Figure 2).

in and inquire if the products are tested by Lithuanian

Figure 1

Figure 2

AU 585

AG 925

250

20 18 16

200

14 12

150

10 100

8 6

50

4 2 0

0 2010

2011

2012

2010

2013

www.balticjewellerynews.com

38

2011

2012

2013


business entity itself and registration or re-registration of

the product is actually made of gold. Knowing if a pur-

-

chased piece of jewellery is actually made of gold or silver, Šiauliai and Druskininkai, or to email them.

if it is worth buying and paying the purchase price, etc., is important to consumers. Consumers are also encouraged

Since 2012 all the business entities, including business

to take interest in the meaning of hallmarks stamped on

entities engaged in the activities with precious metals,

products by a simple folk proverb “all that glisters is not

are technically enabled to contact all state institutions us-

gold”...

ing “one-stop-shop” in the document submission system www.verslovartai.lt. However, as practice shows in 2012

About more favourable and facilitated business

and 2013 entrepreneurs did not actively use the system.

conditions

plications via the said system. Entrepreneurs should be -

actually feel the alleviation of the administrative burden

courage all entrepreneurs to use the system, to saving

reduced by legislative amendments in 2012.

time and money. We are pleased to know that the start

Basically legal amendments adopted in 2012 facilitat-

has been made in this area, and hope that our customers activities with precious metals by reducing the administra-

will be more interested in technical innovations enabling

tive burden for them: the compulsory registration of all

to handle all the business related to precious metals and

business entities engaged in the activities with precious

gemstones at customer workplaces, and will easily adapt

methods of communication with customers, and in 2013 continued the project “The transfer of administrative procedures related to permits issued by state and municipal

until the start of operations.

institutions and agencies to the electronic medium” ini-

No additional documentation needs to be provided to

tiated in 2012 in partnership with the Public Institution “Versli Lietuva”. The project intends to make more serverify the data with the help of IT technologies, by directly

environment. The end of the project was planned in the

contacting other Government agencies or using publicly

middle of 2013, however due to a high volume of project

available data of registers managed by other institutions,

works to engage all the Government institutions into the

without loading business entities with administrative bur-

overall system, the project completion is planned this year.

check the applicant’s business license with State Tax

been publishing the list of all newly registered or dereg-

Inspectorate’s database, etc.

istered business entities in the publicly available register

In 2013 the registration rules for business entities

of permits http://www.verslovartai.lt/lt/leidimu-registras.

engaged in the activities with precious metals and gem-

The disclosure and availability of such information ena-

stones were repeatedly revised. The amendments legal-

bles ordinary consumers, i.e., jewellery buyers, to learn

ized the opportunity for business entities to submit their

more about sellers of jewellery products and the legality

applications for registration with the register of Lithuanian

of their activities, and to “inspect” the legitimacy of business partner activities.

written “paper” application form had been required. So far Lithuanian entrepreneurs are taking little ad-

to the requirements of the Declaration on the First Year

vantage of the opportunity to submit documents to

of Business signed in 2011. The Declaration was signed

-

-

As earlier, business entities may submit all their ap-

business by providing methodological assistance and even

plication forms remain preferable.

www.balticjewellerynews.com

39

LITHUANIAN JEWELLERY REPORT

plications, including applications for registration of a state control hallmark certifying and guaranteeing that


LITHUANIAN JEWELLERY REPORT

The number of sole proprietorships in 2013 compared restrictions, etc.) for committed violations. Instead, a time

to 2010 has not changed much, i.e., from 238 in 2010 to

limit was imposed to remove violations. The Declaration

248 by the end of 2013. The number of small entrepreneurs working with busi-

does not apply, if an entity fails to remove violations within an established time limit or commits new violations. In

by 137, i.e., from 258 to 395 during the period from 31

this case it is subject to sanctions prescribed by law.

December 2010 to 31 December 2013.

On business trends

After the Law on Small Partnerships of the Republic of

From 31 December 2010 to 31 December 2013 regis-

Lithuania has entered into force on 1 September 2012, 3

tered business entities increased by 30%, i.e., from 931 (in

small partnerships were registered by 31 December 2012.

2010) to 1,342 (in 2013).

16 more partnerships were registered in 2013.

Dynamics of the number of business entities engaged in the activities with precious metals and gemstones in 2010-2013* (units)

Dynamics of the number of business entities engaged in the activities with precious metals and gemstones in 2010-2013* according to status (units)

1500

654

1200

436 900

600

218 300

0

0 2010

2011

2012

2013

2010

Registered business entities in total

JSC, Ltd

2011

IE

Nat. pers.**

2012

Public Ints.

2013

CC***

SC****

GP*****

Newly registered business entities Deregistered business entities

2010

2011

2012

2013

931

1060

1196

1342

148

136

139

164

38

35

39

18

Total number of registered business entities Newly registered business entities Deregistered business entities

* Data as of 31 December of a calendar year

Joint-stock companies and/or limited liability compa-

2010

2011

2012

2013

JSC, Ltd

410

483

568

654

IE

238

243

246

248

Nat. pers.**

258

308

348

395

Public Ints.

0

9

10

11

CC***

0

7

7

7

SC****

0

0

3

19

GP*****

0

2

3

3

*

Data as of 31 December of a calendar year;

**

Natural persons with a business licence or an individual activ

***

Cooperative company;

nies prevail among business entities engaged in the activi-

****

Small partnership (since 2012.09.01);

ties with precious metals.

***** General partnership.

For example, in 2010 410 business entities were registered, meanwhile at the end of 2013 654 business entities

As in previous years, in 2013 the main activity of eco-

were registered.

nomic entities in the sector remained to be retail and

www.balticjewellerynews.com

40


Number of business entities engaged in the activities with precious metals and gemstones in * 2010-2013 according to the type of activity (units)

The number of companies, which have declared this activity has grown from 834 to 1,130 since 31 December 2010 to 31 December 2013, respectively. During 2013 the number of such economic entities increased by 114.

1130

The number of pawnshops accepting precious metals, precious stones, and their products as collateral for loans,

904

which grew during the economic crisis, continued to grow

678

in 2013 from 195 economic entities providing pawn services in 2010, to 279 at the end of 2013. 39 new economic

452

entities began providing pawn services in 2013. 226

449 economic entities with 62 new economic entities among them were entitled to engage in buying and sell-

0

ing precious metals, precious stones, their products and

2010**

2011**

2012**

2013**

scrap in 2013. Since 2010 the number of the above economic entities has increased almost 1.5 times – from 299

Pawnshops

Purchase, sale

Trading in gold investment

(in 2010) to 449 (in 2013).

Trade

Production

Selling Online

During the period from 31 December 2010 to 31 December 2013 the number of jewellers producing pre-

2010** 2011** 2012** 2013**

cious metal and precious stone products has increased,

Pawnshops

195

224

240

279

respectively, from 256 to 356. At the end of 2013 this

Trade

834

920

1016

1130

number included 175 legal entities and 181 natural per-

Purchase, sale

299

346

387

449

sons. In 2013 the precious metal production activities

Production

256

282

308

356

were declared by 48 economic entities.

Trading in gold investment

26

31

38

60

Selling Online

10

15

28

68

In recent years the number of investment gold traders has increased from 26 economic entities in 2010 to 60 economic entities at the end of 2013. 38 economic

*

entities declared their trade in investment gold at the end

** Data as of 31 December of a calendar year

The same business entity may be engaged in several activities

of 2012. Moreover, e-commerce in precious metals and gems

The above statistics shows that the market of precious

has started, and it is gaining increasing popularity. 10 eco-

metals and gemstones is growing, that more favourable

nomic entities were legitimately engaged in these activi-

conditions are provided to business entities engaged in

ties at the end of 2010.

these activities, and that the administrative burden is re-

As of 31 December 2012, 24 economic entities de-

duced thus diminishing the shadow economy. The con-

clared this activity and by 31 December 2013 this activity

sumers’ interests are protected. It is the most important

was legalised by 68 economic entities.

www.balticjewellerynews.com

41

LITHUANIAN JEWELLERY REPORT

wholesale trade (distribution) in precious metal products.


Dzintars mūsdienu laikmetīgajās mākslas rotās

Fr OM

MAy

within

the

23 rd

un TIl

European

Au GuST Capital

2nd,

of

2014

The fashion designers – Mārīte Mastiņa and Rolands

Culture

Pēterkops

“r īga 2014” framework “Amber Vein” , Art

still being students at Riga Applied Art College. Since

gallery

international

then, they have participated and received awards in vari-

contemporary jewellery exhibition “AMBEr In

ous international fashion and arts festivals, including the

COn TEMPOr Ary Ar T JEWEll Ery ”.

International Fashion and Photography Festival in Hyeres

Press release by Art gallery PUTTI

en/mareunrols )

PuTTI

is

organizing

(France). (www.mareunrols.com and http://putti.lv/

T

Twenty artists take part in the exhibition: Andris Lauders (Latvia), Claudia Steiner (Austria), Eva Tesarik (Austria), Eve he core idea of the exhibition is to demonstrate

Margus-Villems (Estonia), Fanni Vékony (Hungary), Gigi

the possible range of application of amber in the

Mariani (Italy), Guntis Lauders (Latvia), Heidemarie Herb

contemporary art jewellery created by profes-

(Italy), Helfried Kodré (Austria), Jānis Vilks (Latvia), Jurgita

sional jewellers. This area of interest is largely based on

Erminaitė-Šimkuvienė (Lithuania), Maria Cristina Bellucci

-

(Italy), Māris Auniņš (Latvia), Māris Šustiņš (Latvia), Nataša Grandovec (Slovenia), Nikolai Balabin (Russia), Pawel Kaczynski (Poland), Sara Gackowska (Poland), Valdis Brože

„Amber Road” as the thematic background is not acci-

(Latvia) and Viktoria Münzker (Austria). centuries AD as an exchange route of goods between the

Art Gallery Putti is located in Riga and has been open

Baltic Sea region and Roman Empire. The route started in

since 2000. Originally, the gallery was founded to promote

the eastern coastal area of the Baltic Sea, which at that

Latvian jewellery artists and their works of art. However,

time was inhabited by the Prussians and Curonians. It con-

gaining local and international recognition allowed the gal-

tinued down the Visla up to the city of Karnunta (cur-

lery to expand its mission and now exhibitions also include

rently in Hungary) and further to the coast of the Adriatic

the works of outstanding foreign jewellery artists. The

Sea and the Apennine peninsula, providing Rome with the

artists who exhibit their work in Art Gallery “Putti” work

precious and exclusive material. Many Roman coins and

using different techniques, creating unique pieces of jew-

antiquities found in the graveyards in the Baltic countries

ellery, which represent both contemporary and conceptual

is perceived as the evidence of this trade route together

jewelery styles. Each year the gallery organizes four the-

with testimonies in the writings of Roman Empire era.

matic or personal exhibitions, which can be viewed at the

Thus not only will Latvian and Italian jewellers partici-

same time as the permanent exhibiton, consisting mainly

pate in the exhibition but also artists from countries that

of Latvian jewellery and fashion designers. The pieces of

Amber Road passed through (Russia, Estonia, Lithuania,

art exhibited in the gallery are available for purchase.

Poland, Austria, Slovenia and Hungary). This exhibition will not only link the Amber Road geographically, but

Further information on

also historically by connecting the ancient times with the

exhibitions and galleries:

present, the past with the future and demonstrating the

www.putti.lv,

spectacular miracle of amber jewellery creation.

Diāna Jaunzeme–Meistere: + 371 26524361 (GSM)

The stage of the exhibition is set by an internation-

gallery@putti.lv

ally renowned fashion designer brand “MAREUNROL'S”.

www.balticjewellerynews.com

45

LATVIAN JEWELLERY REPORT

AMBER IN CONTEMPORARY ART JEWELLERY


ESTONIAN JEWELLERY REPORT

WE CHOSE ESTONIA,

because it has good connection with

SCANDINAVIAN countries, BALTIC REGION and the rest of EUROPE

Who makes design for your jewellery?

To represent yourself in Baltic region you

I bring the ideas to my designers, after they draw and choose Estonia?

make the jewellery, so I could say that it is our teamwork.

When our company developed, people started to know

I also always appreciate when somebody gives new ideas

us and to buy our brand goods; we decided to expand

that we can discuss together. Where is your jewellery manufactured?

Estonia, because it has good connection with Scandinavian

The jewellery is manufactured in many countries like

countries, Baltic region and the rest of Europe.

Italy, other European countries and also Asia. It depends

To which exhibitions in Baltic region do you

from materials that are used in jewellery. Sometimes for

go to? Which one is the best?

making one piece of jewellery we need to bring materials

We participated in many countries like Poland, Finland,

from different countries. All our effort and soul is put to

and Germany etc.

prepare our goods, which make them adorable and gor-

In the Baltic region we have been in the “Amber Trip�

geous. Our buyer can always be sure that all our goods

exhibition in Vilnius. Concerning the amount of compa-

are of the highest quality. Why did you establish company in England?

nies exhibiting, it is a small exhibition. In spite of it, we

We decided to establish our company in England, because one of our owners lives in there. England is a big

because you meet people and customers from many dif-

country with a developed jewellery market, so the deci-

ferent countries. you are creating your own brand name. Why

sion came itself.

www.balticjewellerynews.com

52


In spite of the high quality of our goods our prices

-

are affordable for everybody. The price range is from 10 EUR–150 EUR. 

nies. Is your brand name getting more popular? We do not compete with other brand companies; we own niche in the jewellery market. The main difference

REPUBLIC OF ESTONIA

from the other brand companies is that all our goods are made from rhodium plated silver with natural stones like

EU, NATO Capital Tallinn

amethyst, topaz, different colour of quartz, fresh water

Estonian Currency Euro (EUR) Time zone EET (UTC+2) – Summer (DST) EEST (UTC+3) Area – 45 227 km 2 Population (2013) 1 286 540 Government Parliamentary republic President Toomas Hendrik Ilve Prime Minister Andrus Ansip GDP (PPP) Per capita (2012) 17 117 EUR Ethnic groups 69.0% Estonians, 31.0 % others Estonia Largest cities Tallinn 416 144 Latvia Tartu 101 169 Narva 65 886

pearl etc. Of course it is not easy, but time is passing and our brand is becoming more and more known and popular. Much effort is put to introduce our brand to other people and other companies. So far, where do you receive the most demand in Baltic region? The most demand in Baltic region we receive in Latvia and Estonia. What do you think of r ussian market? Russia is a big country with a large jewellery market with its own manufacturers of jewellery. To be involved in Russian jewellery market would open plenty of opportuni-

Lithuania

its custom laws and duties. What is the price range of your products per

Kaliningrad Region

unit?

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53

Belarus

ESTONIAN JEWELLERY REPORT

did you make such decision? After all, it is dif-


GERMAN JEWELLERY REPORT

ous years has proved successful, and this year Sri Lanka

A GOLDEN JUBILEE THAT LIVES UP TO ITS NAME

was well-represented as another Gemstone Nation at

Next to Gemworld Munich was the Munich Show –

Gemworld Munich. Together with the Brazilian Pavilion

Mineralientage München, under whose umbrella three

and the International Colored Gemstone Association (ICA

further fair worlds opened their doors. Anyone with

) Pavilion, more than 20 dealers offering the best qual-

the time to look around was rewarded with some very

ity raw materials from the most coveted regions of the

interesting special exhibitions and fascinating natural re-

world were gathered together in the tightest of spaces.

sources from areas which are devoted primarily to private

The Gemworld Pavilion – the nucleus of the event – also

audiences. As it was the 50th anniversary of the overall

The concept of country pavilions launched in previ-

unveiled a new look this year and was rightly the centre of

event, the overarching theme for the special exhibitions

attention, both visually and on account of the illustrious

was “GOLD”. In the minerals exhibition, the organisers

names of the companies represented within.

set up a treasure chest for the occasion, which provoked wide eyes and enthusiasm in more than just amateur mineralogists. About 350 gold bars and nuggets from international museums and private collections, some of them world-famous, went on display behind thick bulletproof glass. In addition, Elvis Presley's gold phone and biathlete Magdalena Neuner's gold medals served as examples of “Gold of Mankind”. The golden jubilee was celebrated on Friday evening in a specially constructed beer tent with typical Bavarian dishes and a rousing Oktoberfest band. If you were to use Gemworld Munich as the last mood evaluator of the autumn period, then it would appear that the currently cloudy outlook in the industry is showing signs of brightening up and helping many exhibitors to

GEMSTONES FROM OUTER SPACE

healthier year-end statements. In any case, thanks to its

The special exhibition in Hall B6, “Pallavine – A Glint

layout – and not just the beautiful autumn weather – this

from Space” proved to be a real visitor magnet. Under

extraordinary event left visitors with a positive overall im-

the motto “small is beautiful”, the precious contents of a

pression. The next Gemworld Munich will take place on

meteorite found in Indonesia were displayed in four glass

the grounds of the Münchner Messe from 24th to 26th

cases. This meteorite is the only specimen found so far

October 2014.

Thanks to their spectacular history, these gemstones from the olivine family engendered a huge amount of fascination and ensured amazement throughout the entire duration of the fair.

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GERMAN JEWELLERY REPORT

JEWELLERY & GEM Fair Europe meets the industry’s demands 99 already booked Report by Jewellery & Gem Fair Europe Press Office

Freiburg, Germany – Leading representatives of the international jewellery and gemstone industry has expressed the need for an appropriate and commercially focused jewellery sourcing platform in Europe. With the Jewellery & Gem Fair Europe, UBM has responded by providing such a platform, at the cross roads of the industry’s most important hubs, such as Antwerp, Idar-Oberstein, Pforzheim, or in Switzerland and northern Italy. UBM, one of the world’s leading organisers of jewellery fairs will launch the highly anticipated Jewellery & Gem Fair Europe on 1–4 April 2014 at Messe Freiburg. Antonio Jakubowski, CEO of Vilma GmbH comments “We are expecting the jewellery & Gem Fair Europe to create a shining platform for international and European buyers, sellers and manufacturers. So far this form of framework has been absent in the industry, except on a highly illustrious level and not for the broader jewellery market at an international level. The positioning as the exhibitors from luxury and mid-level jewellery, was developed to meet these industry’s vital demands”. “To date, 400+ exhibitors, from 25 countries and re-

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58


GERMAN JEWELLERY REPORT

Celine Lau, Director of Jewellery Fairs, UBM Asia. Among the exhibitors are names such as Richard Hans Becker GmbH & Co KG, Friedrich Binder, Dily's Collection, Emil Weis KG, Herbert Giloy & Söhne GmbH & Co KG, Gustav O Hahn OHG, Karp Jewellery Mfg HK Ltd., Ph cock sons, Pranda Jewelry Public Co Ltd, RMC Gems HK Co. Ltd., Thien Po Ltd, plus many more. “Jewellery & Gem Fair Europe is an important platform for sourcing jewellery, combining the entire industry, under one roof, while also learning industry knowledge and current trends”, praises Giloy, Herbert & Soehne GmbH & Co. KG, “the concept for the exhibition’s location

from around the globe are registered. The Hong Kong

was to establish the event in the three-country triangle

Jewellery & Gem Fair, which took place in September 2013,

of Germany, bordering France and Switzerland. Europe,

is the world's leading trade fair with over 3,500 exhibitors

and especially Germany, has exceptionally high appeal for

and around 5,2000 visitors. The regular trade fair taking

exhibitors from all over the world, due to its sustained

place in June is Asia's biggest international mid-year trade

economic power. Germany and this entire region are also

fair in the jewellery industry. Furthermore, UBM Asia or-

internationally renowned for quality of the jewellery pro-

ganises jewellery trade fairs in Shenzhen, Guangzhou and

duced, quality and innovations of designs and the distin-

Shanghai in China; Chennai, Delhi, Hyderabad, Kolkata

guished craftsmanship.

und Mumbai in India; Japan; Istanbul in Turkey; Singapore; Taiwan; Freiburg in Germany and Moscow as well as St

Michael Thiel, Head of Sales at Giloy, Herbert & Sons

Petersburg in Russia. 

explains “The training and skill development in Germany and surrounding regions is extremely high, making design,

› http://www.JGF-Europe.com

product development and manufacturing in this region internationally recognised. In addition to this, the technical becoming increasingly important. All of these things have

FEDERAL REPUBLIC OF GERMANY

a direct impact on trends, such as sustainability, and making quality jewellery in Germany and Europe unmistakeable. For so long the label ‘Made in Europe’ or ‘Made in

EU, NATO Capital Berlin

Germany’ has been held with very high esteem”. “With Jewellery and Gem Fair Europe, held at Messe

German Currency Euro (EUR) Time zone CET (UTC+1) – Summer (DST) CEST (UTC+2) Area – 357 021 km 2 Population (2012) 81 305 856 Government Federal parliamentary constitutional republic President Joachim Gauck Chancellor Angela Merkel GDP (PPP) Per capita 28 873 EUR Ethnic groups 91.5% German Germany 8.5% others Largest cities Berlin 3471 756 Czech Republic Hamburg 1 786 448 Bavaria 1 353 186 France

Freiburg, our hope is to establish a high quality and valuable

sourcing platform alongside the experiences of the world renowned Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair”, explains Celine Lau,”Freiburg is the ideal location for this show, with its high ease of transport to Freiburg and the fair grounds, and also being located at the heart of Europe”. About the organiser UBM Asia, organiser of highly professional, international, global jewellery trade fairs creates possibilities for business in the jewellery industry throughout the world. More than 100,000 commercial agents visit the UBM Asia

Austria

jewellery trade fairs, where more than 9,500 exhibitors

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59


SWEDISH JEWELLERY REPORT

THE NOBEL

Jewellery Prize 2013 Sanna Svedestedt & Karin Roy Andersson / Diagonal info@diagonalartprojects.com www.svede.se | www.karin-roy.se

Karin Roy Andersson 

 Sanna Svedestedt

F

or already 3 years Sanna Svedestedt and Karin Roy Andersson announce winners of “The Nobel Jewellery Prize” in their blog “Diagonal”. Check it

on http://klimt02.net/ They created their own award to spread the word of their talented colleagues. The Baltic Jewellery News was very exited about this unique idea and asked authors to share it with our readers. On December 10th the annual banquet celebrating the Nobel Prize winners of 2013 was held in Stockholm.

This can only mean one thing – it is high time for us to announce the Nobel Jewellery Prizes 2013.

PHYSICS Looking at the work of Frieda Dörfer can make you question what it is your eyes are telling you. The engraved

 Physics > Neckpiece by Frieda DÖRFER

Title: Terror Vacui Materials: brass, engraved (engine turning), blackened Size: 10 x 33 x 7 cm Photo by Andreas KRUFCZIK

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62

 Medicine > Brooches by Carole DELTENRE

Title: Nymphs Materials: porcelana and silver Photo by: Carole DELTENRE


Consumption is what fuels the global economy. But for how long will this accelerating wheel be able to spin? Tzu-Ling Lee presents an installation of stones made of thousands of receipts collected by her friends. The “carat” of each stone is directly in response to how much that individual have been shopping during a period of time and

 Literature > Kellie RIGGS

Neckpiece: continuity/structure (bronze III), 2011 Materials: Patinated bronze Size: 30 x 21 x 10 cm Photo: Jack SCHOW

stores. The message and the aesthetic qualities are the genuine value of these precious stones.

PEACE highly seductive. The Physics Jewellery Prize is awarded

The intention of the Nobel Jewellery “Piece” Prize is to

Frieda Dörfer for creating magnetism using optical effects.

bring attention to a person, instance or phenomenon that works hard to bring more light on contemporary jewellery.

MEDICINE

The prize of 2013 is awarded to Inger Wästberg – collector, art historian and author of the new book on

Carole Deltenre has highlighted the genesis of all creativity, the source of life. Wearing her pieces is a strong

Contemporary Swedish Art Jewellery. The book presents

and proud statement that this is something important to

thirty-one Swedish jewel-

defend, value and homage.

lery artists from the 1990s to today and explores

Literature  

how jewellery has evolved

The magic of really good literature is its ability to throw you in a certain state of mind. This necklace made

materials and techniques

by Kellie Riggs forces the wearer into both physical and

to its present state of con-

mental position. It frames your thoughts and makes you

cept and content. Since the release of

focused and concentrated.

the book, Wästberg has been spreading the word of contemporary jewellery through various channels and reached large masses. The project has been seen on daytime TV

 Peace > Contemporary Swedish Art Jewellery by Inger Wästberg, ARVINIUS+ORFEUS PUBLISHING

and in fashion magazines, Economy > Installation: The lightness of life, Tzu-LING LEE 2011–2013

During the (real) Nobel Prize event a TV-presenter wore a necklace by Märta Mattsson, one of the artists featured in the book. We applaud this force of energy and dedication to bring more light on art jewellery. Congratulations to all the awards winners of 2013! Now we would like to take the opportunity to thank all of our colleagues, friends and readers for a wonderful 2013 full of exciting projects and hard work. We wish you a spectacular new year and lots of creative energy for 2014! 

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63

SWEDISH JEWELLERY REPORT

ECONOMY


SWEDISH JEWELLERY REPORT

PRECIOUS, THE LEADING WATCH AND JEWELLERY FAIR IN THE NORDIC REGION Report by Åsa Dahlqvist, Precious Press Office

Åsa Axelson, Project Manager at Precious

Precious is the most important meeting ground for the Nordic watch and jewellery industry. During three intensive days at Stockholmsmässan in Sweden, purchasers and suppliers are gathered from all the Nordic countries. Visitors and exhibitors are provided with rich opportunities to do business, build relations, network, spot trends and to strengthen the industry together with other important actors.

D

uring 2012, Precious strengthened its posi-

Nordic region can meet new and exiting representatives

tions as the Nordic watch and jewellery indus-

from independent watch and jewellery stores”, says Åsa

try’s leading trade fair. The all-out venture was

Axelson, Project Manager at Precious.

launched in 2012 in an effort to develop Precious over the

Precious 2014 is held on the 5–7 September. For three

long term. Looking back, it actually surpassed all expecta-

intense days and evenings Precious gather the industry and move it forward. The overall goal of Precious is to in-

in 2013. The choice of Stockholm as the dynamic hub of

crease the interest in the craft, to make it more attractive

Scandinavian fashion and design and Stockholmsmässan,

and to increase business within the whole sector.

one of Scandinavia’s prime exhibition areas, proved to be

“We have breathed new life and excitement into our

the right move.

passion for our craft and the desire to create beautiful and

“Our ambition has always been to create a forum for

functional objects!”, Åsa Axelson says, and welcome visi-

the watch and jewellery industry, where leading manufac-

tors and exhibitors from the Baltic countries to participate

turers, suppliers and buyers representing Sweden and the

in Precious 2014.

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64


FINNISH JEWELLERY REPORT

JEWELLERY

CONNECTING ENVIRONMENT WITH PEOPLE Interview of Odilija GUNTORIUTE with Sari LIIMATTA

Was it always your dream to make jewellery?

ious value, which the stories often need. Toys and por-

narian. There was just so few places to study it in Finland,

to start to work with. I also love to use glass. It looks

that I had to change my plans. Making jewellery was the

like a very cold material, but needs enormous amount of

next natural choice, for it still allowed me to work with na-

warmth during it´s manufacture steps. It also gets it´s start

ture (stones) and later after school I also started to deal in

from the nature elements. Most of your work is little statues of animals,

my work with animal themes. This way the circle became

what is the idea behind your art?

ready for me, and I found my place. What materials do you mostly use in your work?

I think myself as a reporter. My work tells about envi-

Among traditional jewellery materials like silver, I pre-

ronmental problems and animal right issues all around us.

fer working especially with stones and amber, for they

At the same time I connect the stories of them to us as

represent materials and colors directly from the nature.

well; I tell about people and our relationships.

They provide colors, which refer to genuine and prestig-

Where do you look for an inspiration? The stories come to me. I see them on the cities, read about them on the newspapers or watch them on TV. I can´t hide myself from them. I feel it as my personal duty to

 "Death & Birth" 2007

Necklace 48,0 x 20,0 x 7,0 cm Amber, glass beads, garnets, fresh water pearls, peridots, pins, silver, a plastic toy, steel wire

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66


FINNISH JEWELLERY REPORT  "The Competition" 2006

Jewellery sculpture 41,0 x 10,5 x 17,0 cm Amber, glass beads, diabase, hematite, lava, line, onyx, fresh water pearls, pins, plastic toys

 "Mighty" 2013 Installation (11 parts) 25,0 x 16,0 x 19,0 cm Amber, glass beads, marble, thread (polyamide), pins, a plastic toy

bring those often sad themes to daylight. With discussion there can be always hope to change things in the future. I also study the past by reading about ancient cultures and the positions, which the animals used to have those days. I love those travels in time, symbolism and layers of stories. Do you make wearable jewellery? I consider all my work to be wearable, but some of

REPUBLIC OF FINLAND

them I call jewellery sculptures. Jewellery sculptures are sculptures, which tell about jewellery. You can kind of im-

EU, Hallmarking Convention Capital Helsinki Finnish, Swedish Currency Euro (EUR) Time zone EET (UTC+2) – Summer (DST) EEST (UTC+3) Area – 338 424 km2 Population (2012) 5 421 827 Government Parliamentary republic President Sauli Niinisto Prime Minister Jyrki Katainen GDP (PPP) Per capita 26 786 EUR Ethnic groups 93.4% Finn 6.6% others Finland Largest cities Russia Helsinki 596 233 Espoo 252 730 Tampere 215 315 Estonia

agine how to wear them. They may become worn in mind.   How many shows have you had in 2013? In 2013 I had my work in six international exhibitions. One for example was held at Paläontologisches Museum München, Germany. Others were in China, Spain, Iceland, France and UK. Do you participate in the international jewellery exhibitions? For me it is more important to participate in the international exhibitions than national ones. This way my work and the stories have a wider audience. I also feel today´s cused on traditional industrial designing. Artists are pressured to found companies instead of working as freelance artists, which I feel very narrow-minded politics. Abroad the jewellery exhibitions are more open for artistic values, telling stories.

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67


NORWEGIAN JEWELLERY REPORT

t FASHION IS POLITICS where she started to make Swarovski Earrings sometimes during the lunch break instead of eating. She needed to tals and sparkling colours. Vanessa later on lost her job during the early stages of the Financial crisis in 2009. After applying for job after job in the drought season of the early Financial Crisis, she started out creating her own jewellery. She then embarked on a new journey claiming the entrepreneurial spirit and creating her own jewellery collection. Knowing nothing about how business works – a whole new journey of learning every step up the “business, marketing– and production” latter by her self on From the left Vanessa g unnestad c EO & c reative Director of t he n orway

B

selling at uptown stores in Oslo such as Zenon, sold also

ackground: Vanessa started out with studying for

for some time at House of Oslo, Venti Uno, Ellie & Co,

a Masters of IT in Australia but was constantly day-

MagMalou Maggie Wonka, Diin Brudekjolebutikk, had col-

dreaming of making jewellery and other crafts but

laboration for photoshoots with the upcoming Norwegian

never thought it could bring an income. Her mindset was

-

that she had to study IT which supposedly was a “mature

sor for Miss World Nor way 2012 where the jeweller y was

and respected” way to make a living. After all, Norway

shown to over 50 million people. Vanessa discovered one evening while working and watching TV her earrings on princess Märtha-Louise on a popular TV-Show called

the oil and today is a country that focus strongly on oil,

“Senkveld med Harald& Thomas” and was quite surprised Returning to Norway she got a job as a webmaster

by it. Vanessa was also asked to design for the Norwegian

in the world’s second largest pharmaceutical corporation,

bridal dresses company Agape and also the Norwegian

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68


NORWEGIAN JEWELLERY REPORT

airline company called Norwegian amongst others.

JEWELLERY WITH A MESSAGE Since the tragedy happened in Oslo and Utøya 22nd of July 2011 Vanessa designed a jewellery that was her tribute to the victims, surv i vo r s a n d t h e n e x t of k ins c a ll e d “Ja vi elsker” which means “Yes we love”, – it was also a love message to the Norwegian fashion designers to embrace Norwegian design and their effort to stand up and trying to sur vive as designers. Vanessa Earlier that year Vanessa had a trip to Thailand and got introduced to the work to help people out of trafthe most was the reports of small children found in garbage bins after being sold by evil people and abused by evil people. Vanessa designed a jewellery that she wanted to sell and promote for those homes. It is a pendant with a baby saying “I am not for sale”.

FASHION IS POLITICS Later on Vanessa was asked to 2012 which she designed some special designed jewellery and gave to the winners. Unfortunately the three winners were go-go dancers in bars in Oslo and thus the rules of Miss Universe are quiet strict and The beginning of the contract that jewellery had to be under no circumstances promoted or displayed in context of pornographic matters as ly against the sex-industry thus being a ambassador of protecting human was furious and contacted both the

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69


NORWEGIAN JEWELLERY REPORT

where the replies were more in lines with Bill Clinton communicating during the Monica Lewinsky case. Vanessa stood her grounds and claimed the logos and everything ing all the jewellery back, which she never got back. She believes in building her business on higher standards. 2013 started on a low and Vanessa got sick for most of the year and also her mother died from long time illness with MS. Her boyfriend Tobias stepped in to take care of Vanessa who fully recovered in August after being ill since the beginning of February. Today she is slowly building up the company again in social medias and hopes to produce a line of clothes and accessories in the future, there is also a book on the horizon teaching how to make some selected jewellery models. Now they are also doing an online videoblogging course at videoblogging.no that soon will available at videoblogging.tv in English. Teaching people how to videoblog and communicate through social medias.

For more info and how to buy the jewellery go to ›

KINGDOM OF NORWAY Hallmarking Convention Capital Oslo Norwegian Currency Norwegian krone (NOK); 1 EUR – 7.4350 NOK Time zone CET (UTC+1) – Summer (DST) CEST (UTC+2) Area 385 252 km 2 Population (2012) 5 033 675 Government Unitary parliamentary constitutional monarchy King King Harald V Prime Minister Erna Solberg GDP (PPP) Per capita 39 526 EUR Ethnic groups Norway 86.2% Norwegians 13.8% others Largest cities Oslo 876 391 Bergen 257 752 Stavanger/Sandnes 189 828

Sweden


yOur a DVErtis EMEnt info@balticjewellerynews.com www.balticjewellerynews.com


CHINESE JEWELLERY REPORT

CHINAS’

HUNGER FOR AMBER – HOW LONG WILL IT LAST?

Interview of Odilija GUNTORIUTE with Vivian YANG The boom of Baltic amber industry 20 years ago

Could you please present your company

was a result of the famous movie “Jurassic Park”

My company Sage Amber started amber wholesale

by Steven Spielberg. Today amber industry is in the peak for a more sustainable reason,

amber distributors in China. In 2003, after we started co-

the continuing growth of China. The growing

operating with S&A, the biggest and best amber producer

Chinese middle class can afford luxury goods

in Poland with such recognizable designs and high qual-

now, thus enabling amber business to prosper.

ity work in amber market, we decided to ask to become

Baltic Jewellery n ews interviewed Vivian yang

their exclusive distributor in China and the authorization

on her views on how long the prosperity of

was granted at the end of 2003. In 2004 we started S&A

Baltic amber industry would last.

brand franchise shops in China. And now, after 10 years of hard work, S&A is recognized as the top amber brand by all the department stores in China and by the public.

 Vivian yang (forth from the left) at “s &a

jewellery design” collection presentation

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CHINESE JEWELLERY REPORT

How many stores do you have? How many workers do you have? The number of stores is constantly growing. Now we 35 employees working in sales, marketing, inventory and Do you do manufacturing? I don’t do manufacturing. My focus is on building the retail brand. S&A in Poland concentrates on design and manufacturing of jewellery and supplies 80% of total collections we have in all the S&A shops, and the remaining 20% are outsourced to other manufacturers. Is your business concentrated more on wholesale or retail? As I already explained we are concentrated on retail much more although a part of our business is also wholesaling to all amber jewellery dealers with mostly products without metal setting and characteristics of our brand, e.g., beads, bracelets and necklaces, pendants without setting, amber sculptures, etc. When was the time that you understood that this was the right business to enter? amber distributors in China. At the beginning the market was very small and amber was not recognized by most of the customers as a gemstone. The sales were not great but on the other hand I almost didn’t have any competition, which made it easy for me to sustain the business comfortably. Since 2009, the amber market started booming. There are more and more investors starting amber business. Amber has become more popular, more expensive and sells much faster and in much bigger quantities. My advantage of entering amber business so early was better revealed when the market started to boom because when ways to learn about the design, the taste, the producers... I already had all the knowledge and resources at hand to

in Hong Kong Jewellery Fair of 1997. I went there to buy

enjoy the boom.

some jewellery because we had some space still available

Vivian, you started your career as a translator,

and we wanted to run our own jewellery shop with that

now you have over 100 amber jewellery shops in

space stocked. I knew nothing about amber then but I

China, when did you begin your business what were

was attracted by it, and amber was very affordable then.

your fears?

After several purchases, I approached Mr. Roman Talis

I started my career as a translator working for a 85

from Amber # 1 company asking for support and terms of

million dollar loan World Bank poverty reduction project

more serious cooperation. Here I really would like to use

undertaken by the company I worked for. When the com-

this opportunity to thank Mr. Roman Talis for the trust he

pany built a 2000 square meter jewellery trading centre in

had in me to consign goods for me to sell almost without

Guangzhou in 1997, I was appointed the General Manager

any risk to take in 1998. That is how I started my business in amber.

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CHINESE JEWELLERY REPORT

What are your efforts to promote amber and

At the beginning when there was almost no aware-

sustain its popularity?

ness about amber in China, therefore almost no clients, my greatest fear was never about the possibility of losing

Together with S&A company in Poland and my part-

money since the merchandise was for consignment and I

ner Adam Pstragowski, we do a lot of amber promotion

could return whatever I could not sell, the fear was more

in China. The Shanghai World Expo in 2010 saw the huge

about losing the trust.

success of amber selling in Polish Pavilion and helped a lot to make amber recognized by the public. We are also in-

Although your success is overwhelming, you have kept the tradition to touch every piece of jew-

volved in almost all the Polish events held in China, show-

ellery yourself before you buy it. What is it that you

ing Baltic amber to the public as the national treasure of

are looking for each time?

Poland. We had an annual promotion agreement with the

I think my success has partly come from the fact that I

most popular fashion magazine and jewellery magazine

really love amber and I feel for it. Customers also feel the

in China. Twice a year, we host two major amber fashion

soul of our amber design when they come to our shops.

shows in the most prestigious department stores, one in

Even after so many years in amber business, I haven’t got

Shenzhen and one in Beijing, inviting a lot of amber lov-

tired of amber at all. I always joke that I enjoy buying

ers, celebrities and media. S&A company has received a lot of awards,

amber much more than selling it. When I buy, I look for

which ones were the most important for you?

the following factors in the order of priority: the quality

I am very proud to be the exclusive distributor for

of amber, the setting design and quality and the price.

S&A in China because it is really strong and advanced in amber? How much has your business grown since

design, which is very crucial for the development of the

then?

brand. All those awards S&A had won are equally important because it shows the appreciation of our design by

I noticed that the Baltic amber boom started in 2009.

different people.

Since then, our sales have grown a few times although The amber price rise since 2009 is still continuing, and it is at its highest now, how long do you think it will last? In my opinion, the rapidly rising price of amber is very dangerous for the industry. A very good example is jade in China. In the last couple of years, the jade price also jumped to a rocket high price. Now, the market is stuck. The price is high, and people cannot afford it any more. But if the price starts to go down, Chinese people, with the mentality of always buying for investment with value gaining perspective, will stop buying completely. Could you name top exhibitions you go to look for new suppliers? Amberif and Ambermart are the only two shows I am attending now because I only deal with amber. March 2014 looking for new suppliers from Lithuania.

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74


international exhibition

The 26th edition of the Jeweller Expo u the 14th till the 17th of n ovember, about 30,000 visitors came to KyivExpoPlaza exhibition center to admire the brightest jewelry. r epresentatives of more than 300 jewelry companies from 9 countries gathered in the capital city of ukraine to show their products and tell about the trends of the season.

Report by Jeweller Expo Ukraine press office

T

participants of Jeweller Expo Ukraine are the 300 leading companies from Ukraine, Belgium, Georgia, Italy, China, Lithuania, Turkey, Poland,

and Russia.

metals business took part in the exposition. The diversity of the represented products was indeed impressive. The range of styles was quite large. Silver products were ranging from tableware to unique author works for admirers of original products. Gold astonished with the multiple form and combinations both in the mass market items and exclusive works. The exhibition allowed visitors diving into the atmosphere of ancient jewelry traditions and simultaneously appreciate the latest trends, as jewelry is still a symbol of beauty, luxury and welfare. The Best Jewelry of the Year On the 16th of November, the totals of the Best

In the series of the events of the same day another

Jewelry of the Year contest held during the exhibition

important event was held, i.e. the ceremony of awarding

were summed up. The laureates and the award winners of

the outstanding jewelers of Ukraine with the awards of

contest were announced. Both participants and exhibition

Carl Faberge International Memorial Fund.

items.

of all due to professional approach to organization of the

The competent jury consisting of the leading art crit-

event, which ensured quality and quantity characteristics

ics and renowned jewelers summarized the results of the

of the participants and visitors, and preparation of unique

contest. In general, 71 works had been offered for it.

and extremely interesting program of events.

The contest winner and the winner of the Grand Prize

The Jeweller Expo Ukraine exhibition has once again

was Andrii A. Kovalyk for the table set “The Miracle of St.

proved its status of the main industry exhibition event of

George”.

Ukraine!

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77

UKRAINIAN JEWELLERY REPORT

Abundance of bright events at the Jeweller Expo Ukraine 2013


T

Report by Rotaforte Press Office he world jewelry and watch industry will gath-

end design Jewellery for the coming spring-sumer and au-

er at one of the most important events of the

tumn retail season orders.

year at Istanbul Jewelry Show March on 20–23

Istanbul Jewelry Show March is supported by the

March 2014 in six halls of Istanbul Fair Center (CNR

Small and Medium Enterprises Development Organisation

Expo). The four-day event will occupy more than 60,000 square metres of exhibition space and gather over 1200

by the Union of International Fairs (UFI) and the Quality

exhibitors from 25 countries with an extensive display of

Management System ISO-9001, ensuring that it repre-

the latest products and trends exclusive for industry pro-

sents an outstanding international trade event serving

fessionals. UBM Rotaforte is UBM Asia’s JV company in

the fast growing domestic and international markets sur-

Turkey.

rounding Turkey.

Gold jewelry, diamond jewelry, diamonds & pearls,

The exhibition halls are designed and grouped

silver jewelry, mountings, watches, machinery, tools &

by product in order to save time and increase ef-

equipments, display units, packaging, security devices and

be international pavilions from Hong Kong, Italy

softwares will be displayed just for industry professionals.

and Thailand.

With Turkey’s strategic location, Istanbul Jewelry Show March has a unique positioning as an important marketplace for both Europe and the Middle East, serving as the gateway for the World jewelry industry and an outstanding trading hub for countries in the EU, the Middle and Near East, Russia and the CIS Nations, Eastern Europe, North Africa and the Mediterranean providing the best opportunities to source new psoducts, meet and technological innovations. Turkish jewellery is both an art and a craft. Inspired by 5,000 years of cultural and historical heritage in Anatolia and combined with the latest technology, outstanding the shortest delivery time, Istanbul Jewelry Show March is an ideal place to source products in every category of price and quality, from price point merchandise to high-

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87

WORLDWIDE REPORT

ISTANBUL JEWELRY SHOW MARCH The Largest March Edition To Date


WORLDWIDE REPORT

PRESENTING

INTERNATIONAL AMBER ASSOCIATION Interview with Michał kos Ior by Odilija GUNTORIUTE

geries and how to recognise them and many other topics. The course proved to be a big success, which is why we are planning more editions, with English

What are the goals of the Interna-

translation as well. Speaking about edu-

tional Amber Association? Our goals were formulated back in

cation, I cannot fail to mention our book-

1996, when the IAA was founded, and in-

lets about Baltic amber, which we publish

clude mainly: to develop a system for Baltic

in many languages, including Chinese and

-

Japanese. Last year, we printed nearly 20,000 copies and had more than 10,000

ing house; to work with schools, with local Michał k osior Vice-President of IAA

and national government authorities on amber extraction and crafting; to stimu-

PDF downloads from our website. Very importantly, last year we worked with journalists from jewellery magazines

late amber research and the exploration of amber deposits; to work with science centres; and to

and elsewhere. It is mainly through our contacts with

provide education and training. At present, our most im-

journalists that information about amber and IAA activities can reach wide audiences worldwide. The Promotion

and to promote it in the global market. The International

Programme for the Jewellery and Amber Industry run by

Amber Association has 250 individual members and many

Poland’s Ministry of Economy has allowed us to invite sev-

of them have their own agenda which coincides with the

eral trade journalists from the USA, China, Italy, Germany

Association’s. We do our best to support our members’

and Japan to Amberif Gdańsk. Their reports have had a

initiatives and create synergies in the process.

resounding effect. We provided them with IAA amber

Looking back to 2013, which projects initiated by

info packs in order to promote Baltic amber as a perfect

the International Amber Association do you think

jewellery material. The media’s interest in amber is now -

were the most important?

ingly better amber jewellery design but also to increased

Last year we focused mainly on publishing, informa-

amber prices.

tion and promotion campaigns. Our main projects included participating in the Baltic Amber Festival ran by the

A very important project, which we will certainly

IAA’s Ambassador to China Nancy Chui and in the Beijing

continue, is the STOP Illegal Amber Mining campaign.

First International Amber Fair. We take part in Polish and

In November, together with the seaside municipality of

Lithuanian amber trade exhibitions in order to always

Stegna and the Elbląg Forest Authority, we planted pine

keep in touch with the customers.

trees in the areas degraded by illegal mining. We also have something for the kids: an international

In August, at Ambermart Gdańsk, we organised the Understanding Amber Training Course. We have noticed

school competition titled School on the Amber Route,

that even those who sell amber may have serious gaps in

which we have run for six years now. The competition al-

their knowledge about it. This one-day course gives the

lows us to tell children about amber’s place in the history

people who work with amber the essential information,

of humankind and what role trade routes, including the

including: the location of amber deposits, the origin of

Amber Route, played in the development of Europe and the world.

-

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88


of Fine Arts (Poland). Together, we invited 20 renowned

amber products. I have been receiving positive market

European designers, who had not worked with amber be-

feedback on it as a much needed initiative. Amber is get-

fore, to make amber jewellery or amber objects. We sent

ting more and more expensive, so customers increasingly

pieces of raw amber to them and, several months later,

want their valuable jewellery or raw amber to have been

they sent us back their projects. An exhibition of their work goes for all gemstones.

was successfully displayed at the Ghent gallery, Amber Museum Ribnitz-Damgarten, Amber Museum Gdańsk and

The International Amber Association took part in

the Legnica Gallery of Art. This year, it will be further pre-

the Baltic Amber Festival in Hong Kong. What were

sented in other locations, including the Kaliningrad Amber

the goals of the Festival? How successful was it? The Hong Kong Baltic Amber Festival was created

Museum. We are planning to continue this experiment.

by our member and IAA’s Ambassador to China Nancy

What plans do you expect to accomplish during

Chui. Last year saw the festival’s second edition titled A

2014?

Kaleidoscope of Amber Art & Designer Jewellery from

This year, we want to focus on fundamental education, especially in the Chinese market. Next to the courses,

Poland. The exhibition included works by Professor

which are scheduled to coincide with our trade exhibition

Sławomir Fijałkowski and Mariusz Gliwiński, who ran an

presence, we want to develop an online training course.

amber workshop the previous year for the students of the

Many organisations are seen to be shifting basic-level

Hong Kong Design Institute, and by companies includ-

training to the World Wide Web. It will be a great aid to

ing S&A, Art7, NAC Amber, Jacek Ostrowski, plus collec-

companies at distant locations or those who are too busy

tions of natural specimens and inclusions courtesy of John

during trade exhibitions.

Fudala, Jonas Damzen and Doug Lundberg. The festival’s aim was to promote Baltic amber, its

We also plan to publish several more posters to pre-

diverse history, cultural heritage and use in jewellery.

sent amber’s colours, amber inclusions and commercial

Amber in contemporary jewellery is remarkable and beauWe have received offers to present amber designs by

tiful–and yet remains little known. In principle, the BAF’s

the IAA members in several locations worldwide. I think

aim is to change this, to show the collaboration between

that an exhibition developed to present contemporary

European and Chinese designers and students. Last year,

amber design alongside abstract amber art should prove

Mariusz Gliwiński and Janko Lam, a Hong Kong fashion

an interesting and novel form of presentation.

designer, produced a joint jewellery and fashion show.

The fashion show in Baltic Amber Festival in Hong Kong

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89

WORLDWIDE REPORT

Since January, we have had a new staff member who

We ran a remarkable cooperation project with the Villa de Bondt, Ghent (Belgium) and the Gdańsk Academy


WORLDWIDE REPORT

Fashion shows, the experience exchange between Polish

World Jewellery Confederation. According to the world’s

and Chinese designers, students and teachers are all very

gemstone organisations (CIBJO, AGTA, GIA; or ICA, of

important and media-friendly events. The festival led to

which the IAA is a member), whoever subjects a stone to

several publications in China’s jewellery and designer magazines. I take my hat off to Nancy Chui for the work

amber, it is common practice, which is nothing wrong in

and effort that she and her team have put in promoting

itself. But, unfortunately, sometimes the customer is not

amber and I very much look forward to the forthcoming

informed that the stone in the ring they have bought was

festivals they’ve planned.

heated up in an autoclave to alter its colour or transpar-

The International Amber Association released

egories to suit amber. The Chinese market, which has been very receptive in recent years, is used to having such

were the aims of this project? The IAA’s Amber Expert Commission developed two

information and expects it. That is why we persuade our

-

members to apply the principles that are used worldwide.

ber by colour variety, degree of transparency, impurities

The STOP Illegal Amber Mining campaign was

and shape. This detailed categorisation can be used for

initiated by the International Amber Association.

transactions based not just on weight fractions but also

Do you think such events will have any impact? Who

on other factors, which determine how raw amber can be

else supported the campaign?

used. It seems to me that the amber industry still pays too

For many years, we have been observing a degrada-

little attention to amber sorting but treats raw amber as

tion in the natural environment due to the illegal mining

a cheap material instead, the way it did 20 years ago. In

of Holocene amber deposits. In recent years, following the

recent years, both the price and availability of amber have

-

changed considerably so we have to change our approach

tire Polish coast, affecting especially the natural beauty of

-

sand dunes. Illegal mining is a huge problem in the shal-

ber, while an artist would rather buy amber in rare shapes

low Palaeogene deposits of the Kaliningrad Region and in

than pieces useful for mass production.

Ukraine. Certainly, it results from both market shortages of raw amber and its high price tag.

sponse to the global trend to identify gemstones by name,

Since its establishment, the IAA has been lobbying in

as described in the Blue Book published by CIBJO–The

favour of legal mining and against the degradation of the

Part of the poster “c ommercial c

a mber”

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90


environment. In 2007, the Mayor of Gdańsk made it possible to lease shallow deposits under the local law. No illegal digging was recorded for almost a year but the problem returned after the lease expired. It follows from trade press and discussions within the IAA that a new generation of consumers is entering the market. They want their products to be neutral to the environment. It is very significant especially in religious products; let us not forget that in Buddhism amber is both one of seven most important treasures and an increasingly popular rosary material. Our campaign was supported by the municipality of Stegna, which is one of the locations were illegal mining takes place, and by the Elbląg Forest Authority, which supervises the seaside forests that often grow on amber deposits. On a November Saturday, IAA members and friends planted pine seedlings in the areas where amber is illegally mined. The IAA’s Russian friends also took part in the campaign as they want to counteract illegal mining at home. We will certainly repeat our campaign in the spring. The amber price rise since 2009 is still continuing, amber’s price is at its highest, how long do you think it will last? I have recently been comparing raw amber prices. In 1997, the industry’s stock 10–20g fraction cost an equivalent of EUR 100. Today, its price is over a dozen times from the Chinese market but also by Russian policy, which has practically made it impossible to export raw amber. In my opinion, this policy is too harsh and will give rise to corruption. We realise that the amber market has not been systematised so far but blocking exports will not improve its condition at all. There is no Russian, Lithuanian or Polish amber–we are all interconnected. What we have is Baltic amber–a brand that we should be promoting together. And this requires Russians, Lithuanians and Poles to work together. Market-wise, we are now in a place where it is only by working together that we can promote the Baltic amber brand and avoid a speculation bubble. It may sound strange but let us use the opportunity of Baltic amber being as valuable now as during the Roman Empire. Let us elevate it to the position, which it had at the dawn of humankind, when it was a uniquely precious material or even an amulet. The markets for jadeite and amber share certain features. When comparing them, I’m concerned that the price rise is not over yet.


TECHNOLOGY

RIACETECH. LISTENING AND

PAYING ATTENTION TO DETAILS r iaceGroup returns to talk about itself and three major new features: Intuitive, the new machine from the r iaceWax line, r iaceChem the opening of a new facility for research and development on wax, and r iaceThai, a branch in Bangkok.

Interview of Elena AIELLO with Giovanni LEJKOWSKI

current waxes, and on the reduction of withdrawal; they request waxes that are easier to inject into increasingly complex molds and waxes which are soluble in water in

What lies behind Intuitive,

order to obtain 3D models by avoiding the costs of proto-

your new injector ?

typing machines. Why did you decide to open a non-commercial

Simply a new intuitive way of

branch in Thailand ?

working. The use of a tablet with

Giovanni Lejkowski, CEO and founder of the RiaceGroup

Android interface to manage the

Basically to provide a complete service to our clients: to

machine offers many new possi-

meet market demand as supplying machinery also implies

bilities for the operator: mobility, as

providing a service to our clients, especially in the case of

each unit can be moved from one

large companies with whom we already collaborate. The

machine to another, the conserva-

Asian market has become a strategic area, a reservoir of

tion of programs thanks to photos

multinational companies and growing opportunities. For this reason, it has become crucial for RiaceTech to provide support tailored to client needs. Why did you chose Bangkok?

the most inexperienced operators. What new features does the tablet controlled

The centrality of Bangkok allows us to be present in

injector offer?

all the major companies for which we have become, from

This formula offers the opportunity to constantly keep

being mere suppliers, partners in research and develop-

the machine up to date simply by downloading new appli-

ment for lostwax casting, and the opening of RiaceThai,

cations through which production management is quick

with its 750sqm, aims to be a technological hub for the

and easy. For example, the Production App for monitor-

entire Asian market. intuitive, the

ing the progress of orders directly on the injector. The

wax research and the Bangkok branch?

Network App leverages the interconnectivity of the tablet and, in a few easy steps, you can create a network

Our ongoing research in interpreting and responding

between the devices to share information and to control

to market demands, for which RiaceTech participates in

production by going back to the causes of defects.

major international trade shows. We have re-sellers and

What does the new RiaceChem plant deal with ?

clients around the whole world with very different needs

In two words? Research and development or to im-

and, through our innovations, we try to satisfy them by making it easier for them to work.

prove the quality of waxes for use on all RiaceWax ma-

What are your objectives for 2014 , Mr. Lejkowski ? Everything starts from the pleasure of running a comthe model. This also allows us to provide a complete ser-

pany comprised of young people who are passionate

vice to the client.

about innovation and the future. This makes me believe

Why is there a need to create new types of wax?

that 2014 will also be a year of growth similar to the previ-

Our customers are becoming more demanding and

ous year. A year in which we will be able to be even closer

one of their recurring requirements is the possibility of

to our clients and support them in the innovation process:

moving the limit on the minimum thickness required by

Riacetech is “No stopping innovation!�

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92


PERSONALITY

WITH AMBER FOR ALMOST HALF A CENTURY! Interview with Knut RUDLOFF by Odilija GUNTORIUTE Democratic Republic. After the fall of the communist system, initially it was hard to create replacement for existing structures. What was the most interesting event during Your working years with amber? There are a lot of interesting stories to be told. Each new product, each new collection is an interesting challenge and adventure. However, in 1990, a visit to the ligk nut r

nite mine in the GDR at Bitterfeld was a special adventure. In the mine, about 20 tons of amber were dug up every

Mr. Rudloff, we have been seeing You in Vilnius

year. After the Fall of the Berlin Wall, there was a small

and Gdansk amber fair for many years. How long

period of time when one could quite legally go to the mine

have You been working with amber?

and collect amber. On some days I collected over 200 kg. Amazingly, the amber pieces, washed out of the soil by rain

pieces of amber in a small beach of St. Peter-Ording resort

and wind, were just lying on the ground! It was a sort of

at the North Sea. My father produced me a simple grinding

“Blue earth” as in Samland of about 10 km² area. Around

and polishing machine, so in the same year, at the age of a lake, which in some places reaches up to 35 m deep. Can amber still be found there?

for my grandmother and aunt And from this moment You were caught by the

From geological research, I know that a reservoir of

virus of amber?

approximately 1,000 tons is predicted. If the prices of raw

Yes, it was a nice hobby. In my early life, I collected

materials continue to rise, probably this accumulation of

many kilograms of amber, processed and sold everything all

amber in the middle of Germany will be re-mastered with

on my own. After graduating from school at the beginning

a new extraction method (hydro-digging). So far it is not

of 80’s I studied business administration and engineering at the Technical University of Berlin. I paid for my education

150 grams of amber can be found in one cubic meter of

from income received from my small business of amber.

this “Blue earth”, i. e. much less than in Kaliningrad. About Your current job. What is Your company

What happened next?

“Nordschmuck GmbH” engaged in and what are

After graduating, I worked for some years at a Institute

Your strengths? We supply our collections to almost 500 jewellery and

I did not like designing factories for large trusts, and in 1986

souvenir shops in Germany. Our strength is the creation of

I decided to engage in amber trade as my core business. At that time the Berlin Wall was still standing.

gifts and jewellery, which precisely meet the taste of con-

Where did You get amber from?

sumers in Germany. It may be quite simple products such as

The State Enterprise of Foreign Trade “Cepelia” was op-

our amber polishing kit for children. We star ted marketing

erating in Poland, which organized sales of about 20 works

ten years ago. At that time our competitors mocked us be-

of artists in the West. “VEB Ostseeschmuck”, with which

cause the product was cheap. To this day, we have sold over half a million of such kits. In other words, more than 500

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94


gether we offer more than 100 displays with different top-

dants and experienced an exciting adventure. This is how

ics. Eight employees work in the unit of preparation and

we promote a positive approach to amber from the early

dispatch of products for the German market, four more

age because today’s children are our future customers.

employees work in administration and sales.

PERSONALITY

000 children in Germany polished their own amber pen-

Every year we attempt to create at least one new collection with our brand. Last year, for example, we began selling the collection “My Island”, which was a huge success across the North and Baltic Sea region. We have developed 15 popular holiday islandshaped

pendants,

using The stand of the company “Nordschmuck GmbH” in a fair (January, 2013)

silver on the outside and amber of various shapes and colour inside. For the

What major problems arise in Your daily work?

design of amber and silver Amber polishing kit in a bag at the sales stand

we used exact contours of

We call our concept of decorating and logistics “the

a certain island. We closely

sale of amber under the system”. It is highly important that

cooperated with a company in Gdansk; over a year, I trav-

for many years we have been providing our customers with

the product No. “AB” or a collier with the product No. Another new brand and a new collection is called

“XY” must look and have the same dimensions and the

“Amber meets black oak”. In this regard, we are closely co-

same weight as it is now. Of course, this condition puts

operating with the Polish artist Tadeusz Dobkowski, who,

strong demands on our suppliers in Lithuania and Poland. How many companies do You cooperate with,

in his company in Gdynia, produces a unique and nice col-

and do You keep close relations with them?

lection of two fossil materials: amber and black oak.

There are 15 companies in Lithuania, from which we regularly receive goods; there are more such companies in Amber Meets With Swamp Oak

Poland. In most cases we provide own designs and patterns for production with very strict quality standards, we have to trust each other at 100%. After regularly visiting each manufacturer, sometime even meeting their families, very friendly relations have developed in both countries during the past year, which I did not wish to abandon. Special reliability of our suppliers forms the basis of our continuous growth and success. What do you think about the future? in obtaining supplies of the raw materials. It is said that Russia would stop exporting raw amber and is going to process everything on its own. Probably Russia considers it

How large is Your range of products and how

an attractive idea, however, I believe that its implementa-

many people are employed in “Nordschmuck”?

tion is not realistic. The Soviet Union tried to do the same

We offer about 2000 different products, which are

in the 70’s, however, it resulted in amber mining becoming

placed on various displays, , sales racks or baskets. All to-

a branch of industry in another country, namely, the GDR.

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PERSONALITY

Although the “Blue earth” in Kaliningrad is under ground

jewellery from amber and silver at this fair and in the fair

level, however, the geological layer containing amber

“Amberif”. In Gdansk, I was demonstrating a new design

stretches up to Poland and Lithuania, therefore, upon rising

idea: processing of amber with black oak. Rudloff noticed

prices of raw materials, industrial excavation can be started

these great design products, however, he bought only a

elsewhere. Currently a kind of poker is being played. Later,

few pendants “on a trial” as he said, and “maybe next time

the situation returns to normal, which I am sure.

I will buy more”. After that time I have not heard anything

Mr. Rudloff, thank You very much for the inter-

from him and almost forgot him.

view and I wish You a happy and successful life with

In February, Rudloff suddenly called me and arranged

amber.

a meeting in my gallery in Gdynia. Rudloff wanted to create a collection in my workshop for the wholesale trade Mrs. Thode, You have a

of his company “Nordschmuck GmbH”. The problem was

typical souvenir shop on the

that we had been making only single products, however,

island Usedom. How long

Rudloff wanted products of the same size, even the same

have Your been selling amber and when did You start to co-

not ready for such “serial production”. We continued the

operate with Rudloff?

conversation at my home, we made dozens of sketches and after two bottles of whiskey at dawn we reached a unani-

I took over the store from my parents only three years ago.

from us a few thousand pendants, and now my staff in the

They have known Rudloff for many years. I meet Rudloff once Nicole Thode in her store “Galerie Inselstuv” in Usedom Island

or twice a year at the fair, where I

Over the years, trade relations have strengthened and I

inspect season innovation and lis-

am glad that I can continue to maintain and develop friend-

ten to Rudloff’s interesting advice

ly business relations with Rudloff as my “best customer”

on amber.

in Germany.

We had the amber corner in the store from the very beginning, however, in recent In particular, it is related to an attractive collection of “Nordschmuck” and fast delivery of goods. We continuously offer modern jewellery that exactly meets our customers’ tastes. Everything is already decorated in nice sales displays to attract the attention of our customers. All prodhigh season every week I order amber products through our mechandise management system. I receive goods within two days; therefore I do not need a large warehouse Dainius Milius and his wife Dovile

with a frozen capital. Mr. Dobkowski when and

Mr. Dainius Milius, please tell us about your busi-

where did You meet Rudloff?

ness partner Knut Rudloff.

It was the autumn of 2010, at

With Knut Rudloff we cooperate for about eight years.

the “Ambermart” fair in Gdansk.

Knut is loyal partner and client. He is very concrete and tac-

For many years I have been pre-

tical. He always knows what he wants and what is needed;

senting my hand-made unique

it will not be a surprise that he values high quality.

Tadeusz Dobkowski in Gdynia (Poland) in his workshop (www. artofamber.com)

has a very good sense of humor. It is nice to work with en-

Most of all he values communicating with people. He ergetic and ambitious person, who never forgets to show his gratitude.

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96


JEWLLERY AS A STATEMENT

DR. MADELEINE ALBRIGHT WILL TAKE YOUR QUESTIONS

Dr.

By AJF Members www.artjewelryforum.org Madeleine Albright, the 64th Secretary

Read my Pins, Albright’s jewelry memoir published

of State of the United States and a

in conjunction with the eponymous show at New York’s

formidable collector of jewelry, was a

Museum of Arts and Design, bears testimony to the

rather unique advocate for the strategic and provocative

Secretary’s awareness of jewelry’s long history as a propa-

use of pins. Her love affair with jewelry, while not new to

-

her, erupted on the political scene in 1994 while she was

gle, or a dove would amount to a footnote in that history,

ambassador to the United Nations for the Clinton admin-

were it not for the conjunction of three factors: being a

istration. Albright, who had just been described by the na-

Secretary of State gave her picks unparalleled exposure;

tional Iraqi newspaper as an “unparalleled serpent,” was

being a woman meant she could vastly expand on the rather limited range of masculine ornament; and being who she was meant she was rather less than subservient

she recalls in her jewelry memoirs.

to diplomatic etiquette.

Dr. Albright’s choice of a small gold and diamond

She will now take your questions.

snake pin made diplomatic history. “It was just my way of sending a message,” she told the UN press corps. In subsequent years, as she rose to political prominence, the

I AM PRETTY CAREFUL about

impact of her choices of “what to wear” grew. In turn

not wearing things that are insulting-that’s an IMPORTANT PART of being a diplomat

chiding and wishful, her pins were soon read as personal

 Madeleine ALBRIGHT wore snake pin to meetings with i

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98


Luckily, it really did say “Madeleine.” Marthe l e Van, Asheville, n orth Carolina:

just for you? That doesn’t communicate anything to any-

During your service as Secretary of State, did you come

one else?

across dignitaries who met pin with pin, answering the

Dr. Madeleine Albright: I have many different

“mute eloquence of pins with attitude” with ornaments of their own?

pins that I have bought or that have been given to me over the years simply because they are pretty or well-crafted

Dr. Madeleine Albright: Interestingly enough, I

or just plain fun. Sometimes it’s nice to wear a piece for

have come across quite a lot of men that wear lapel pins signifying their position in government or representing

message. The piece of jewelry that is by far the most personal to pins. In our own government, many members of Congress

me is a heart-shaped pin made of clay and painted haphazardly in bright colors. It was given to me one Valentine’s

or the Congressional seal.

ual observer, it is neither expertly crafted nor particularly

Sharon Sindell, l os Angeles, California: Was

valuable. But to me, it symbolizes the unbreakable bonds

there ever a situation when a piece you wore was a dis-

of love between mother and daughter and is therefore

traction and got in the way of actual diplomatic work? Dr. Madeleine Albright: There was one instance

Susan Cummins, Tiburon, California: Did you

where my choice of pins got me into trouble. I had traveled with President Clinton to Moscow to meet with President Vladimir Putin, and among a number of issues

meaning based on different cultural points of view? Did

I wanted to raise was Russia’s feigned ignorance of hu-

this ever get you in trouble? Dr. Madeleine Albright: I am pretty careful about

man rights abuses in Chechnya. To show my displeasure,

not wearing things that are insulting-that’s an important

I wore three monkey pins representing the “see no evil,

part of being a diplomat. On the contrary, I try to wear

hear no evil, speak no evil” adage. While walking into a

things that are representative of the place that I am visit-

meeting, President Putin turned to President Clinton and

ing. I have a whole hanging bag of pins that are actually

remarked that the Russians always took great interest in

organized by their country of origin. I particularly like a

what pins I wore and what they might symbolize about

pin that was given to me in Lebanon, which is my name

the US-Russian relationship. He then asked me what my

in Arabic. In that case, I had to do some research to make

monkeys were supposed to signify. I replied point blank that I thought his policies regard-

sure it really was my name in Arabic and not some other

ing Chechnya were “pure evil.” The resulting look on

word that might be embarrassing.

Iradj Moini, Hear No Evil, Speak No Evil, See No Evil 2000, three-brooch set Materials: tagua nuts, yellow gold-plated base metal, simulated pearls, antique German glass cabochons, crystals, Size: 30 x 53 mm. Photo: John Bigelow Taylor

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99

JEWLLERY AS A STATEMENT

Agita Putaane, r iga, l atvia: Your jewelry pieces are your lips for the public. Do you have any jewelry that is


Benjamin l ignel, Montreuil, France: Your collection, while coming from a wide range of sources, bears witness to a particular penchant for costume jewelry. What qualities does it have that more upmarket pieces lack? Are you interested in commissioning work from liv-

President Clinton’s face made it clear that I had taken my

ing jewelers and artists, or do you prefer the adventure

pins a bit too far on that occasion.

of shopping? Dr. Madeleine Albright: I really enjoy combing

Joan Dutton, Chicago, Illinois: What brooch would you wear to a meeting with President Vladimir

catch my eye or speak to me in some way. It’s great fun.

Putin? With President Bashar al-Assad? Dr. Madeleine Albright: In lieu of wearing the

One of the reasons I traditionally opt for costume jew-

monkeys again, I think I would wear a very large American

elry is because of the price. And while I hate the idea of

-

losing any of my jewelry, I suppose that at least with costume pieces the loss would hurt a little less. I also appreci-

time I met President Assad’s father Hafez al-Assad, be-

ate the accessibility of costume jewelry, because I want to

cause Assad means “lion” in Arabic. However, I think a

make it clear that anyone can do what I’ve done with my

more apt pin would have been a mule due to his stub-

pins. I believe that jewelry doesn’t have to come from a

bornness. In his son’s case, I would probably wear a scor-

fancy store or be made of precious gems to have a power-

pion to depict how he has hurt the Syrian people. Thanks! 

Bella n eyman, n ew york, n ew york: How much of her own opinion is a Secretary of State expected (or allowed) to pack in her diplomatic bag and express in public? Did your use of pins-your “personal diplomatic arsenal” – ever come under criticism by your administration for being too personal? Dr. Madeleine Albright: As Secretary of State, I was a member of the presidential cabinet as well as the national security team. Part of my job was to help formulate the foreign policy of the United States, and ultimately I was responsible for packing my own diplomatic bag. The pins were just one particular tool that I used to reinforce the message of the day.   Donald Wallens, l os Angeles, California: Having had the pleasure of seeing your jewelry collection at the Clinton Library, I wondered how you feel about it as a museum display, disembodied rather than adorning your self? Dr. Madeleine Albright: Actually, I love it! I am always surprised at how beautifully the various museums display the exhibit. Each one has done it a little differently in terms of spacing and lighting, but the result is always stunning. and continue to wear them, many of the ones on display are custom or vintage pieces, and so I’ve had to let them go. I do miss them at times, but I am glad that others have the opportunity to see them and learn more about the nuances of foreign policy as a result.

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101

JEWLLERY AS A STATEMENT

THERE WAS ONE INSTANCE where my choice of pins GOT ME INTO TROUBLE


JEWELLERY CRIME

THE “AMBER ROOM�, worth a billion roubles, found in Kaliningrad region By Klops.ru

T

he policemen and FSS (Federal Safety Service) ofof amber, which is worth more than a billion

roubles. This was reported by the Regional MIA Board Information Service. The hideout was found during the search of the amber processing workshop, equipped in one of the houses in Yantarny village. The entry to a basement was bricked up. There were 227 bags of amber stored under the ce-

ment layer. Preliminary calculation indicated that the value At the same time MIA noted that many rare specimens, weighing more then 1.5 kg, were found in the bags. The prices of every stone can reach 100 thousand dollars. The search was carried out through the investigation

on a large scale in order to offset VAT amounting to 250

of the proceedings brought against the former owner of

million roubles illegally. Currently the hunt of the interna-

Specialist Ltd. Viktor Bogdan, for attempting to defraud

tional fugitive is being held.

There were 227

BAGS OF AMBER stored under the cement layer

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102


What are the aims of the LoveGold? LoveGold is a global digital destination and we seek to build relationships with young consumers wherever they are. The aim of LoveGold is a simple one: to inspire individuals with images of beautiful gold jewellery. What are the results of this project so far? How successful is it? LoveGold is only a year into its growth and has so far Sally Morrison (Managing Director, Jewellery, World Gold c ouncil), Photographer Mario t estino & Editor-in-c hief of Vogue China Angelica Cheung (at Vogue China’s 100th Issue Celebration) – Photo by Ted Wong

gathered over 300,000 followers across its channels such as Twitter, Instagram, Facebook and the Chinese social network Weibo. We are extremely proud of the designers and

Actress Michelle Dockery (at a LoveGold luncheon to celebrate her at Chateau Marmont) – Photo by John Sciulli (Jewellery: David Yurman)

other collaborators with whom we work and are delighted that the response to the jewellery we feature is so positive. How many jewellers are taking part in the project? From which countries are they? In our platform www.lovegold.com, we feature very many jewellers whose designs and craftsmanship we respect and admire. Those jewellers span the entire world, from North America, South America, the UK, France, Italy, Greece and Denmark to the other reach of the globe with designers in countries such as India and China. There is so much talent to be discovered and many more countries to explore, and we would encourage Baltic Jewellery News readers to reach out to us with suggestions of designers or gold jewellery pieces that they think should be featured on our platform and channels. How many awards has LoveGold already been nominated for? For only a-year-old brand, we were delighted to be nominated in January for a prestigious GEM Award for Communications and proud to be shortlisted for this award alongside brands Tiffany & Co and Tacori.    What are the plans for the future? To continue to seek out the world’s most beautiful gold jewellery, the designers creating it and the people wearing it – and to extend the reach of our community.

“We Wo Uld e NCo Ur Age B Al TiC JeWeller Y NeWS re Ader S

to reach out to us with suggestions of designers or gold jewellery pieces that they think should be featured on our platform and channels” www.balticjewellerynews.com

103

JEWELLERY TRENDS JEWELLERY

LOVEGOLD – created to inspire


MAJOR JEWELLERY TRADE FAIRS

MAJOR TRADE FAIRS IN March 2014 – August 2014 XI International Baltic Jewellery Show Amber Trip Date: 12–15 March, 2014 Location: Vilnius, Lithuania www.ambertrip.com info@ambertrip.com

12th International Gold & Jewelry Exhibition 2014 Date: 21–26 April, 2014 Location: Mishref, Kuwait www.kif.net info@kif.net

International Jewelry & Watch Show Abu Dhabi (JWS) Date: 13–17 March, 2014 Location: Abu Dhabi, United Arab Emirates www.adnec.ae raya.dandal@reedexpo.ae

Jewelry Fair Korea Date: 24–27 April, 2014 Location: Seoul, Korea www.jewelfair.com jewelfair@kita.net

Amberif, International Fair of Amber, Jewellery and Gemstones Date: 19–22 March, 2014 Venue: Exhibition Center Gdansk, Gdansk, Poland www.mtgsa.com.pl amberif@mtgsa.com.pl Istanbul Jewelry Show March Date: 20–23 March, 2014 Venue: CNR Expo Center, Istambul, Turkey www.istanbuljewelryshow.com inquiries@rotaforte.com BASELWORLD 2014 Date: 27 March – 3 April, 2014 Location: Basel, Switzerland www.baselworld.com visitor@baselworld.com Jewellery & Gem Fair Europe Date: 1–4 April, 2014 Locationa: Messe Freiburg,, Freiburg, Germany www.JGF-Europe.com salesjgf-hk@ubm.com Oroarezzo Date: 5–8 April, 2014 Location: Arezzo, Italy www.oroarezzo.it oroarezzo@oroarezzo.it Aru-Almaty, 11 International Jewellery Fair Date: 10–13 April, 2014 Location: Almaty, Kazakhstan www.kazexpo.kz kazexpo@kazexpo.kz

36th Mideast Watch & Jewellery Show 2014 Date: 29 April – 3 May, 2014 Location: Sharjah, United Arab Emirates www.mideastjewellery.com info@expo-centre.ae Vicenzaoro Spring Date: 10–13 May, 2014 Location: Vicenza, Italy spring.vicenzaoro.com

IJK – International Jewellery Kobe 2014 Date: 14–16 May, 2014 Location: Tokyo, Japan www.ijk-fair.jp ijk-eng@reedexpo.co.jp Jewellery Expo Ukraine Date: 15–18 May, 2014 Location: Kiev, Ukraine www.kmkya.kiev.ua info@kmkya.kiev.ua G.L.D.A. Las Vegas Gem & Jewelry Show Date: 26–29 May, 2014 Location: Las Vegas, USA www.glda.com info@glda.com New Russian Style Date: 28 May – 01 June, 2014 Location: Moscow, Russia www.eng.rjexpert.ru inter@jnwex.com CK Las Vegas Date: 30 May–02 June, 2014 Venue: Las Vegas, USA www.jckonline.com inquiry@jck.reedexpo.com

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104

JUBINALE 2014 Date: 5–7 June, 2014 Venue: Krakow, Poland www.jubinale.com info@jubinale.com Asia Fashion Jewellery & Accessories Fair-June Date: 19–22 June, 2014 Venue: HKCEC, Hong Kong http://www.asiafja.com salesafj@cmpasia.com June Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair Date: 19–22 June, 2014 Venue: HKCEC, Hong Kong www.Jewellerynetasia.com salesjwf@cmpasia.com METS exhibition Date: 25–28 June, 2014 http://www.mets.hk/en/index.php exhibition@mets.hk Jovella 2013 Date: 01–02 July, 2014 Venue: Tel Aviv, Israel www.stier.co expo@stier.co.il India International Jewellery Show Date: 17–21 July, 2013 Venue: Bombay Exhibition Centre, Mumbai, India www.iijs.org info@gjepcindia.com Norwegian Gold & Ur Date: 21–24 August, 2014 Venue: Lillestrøm Exhibition's, Norway www.gull-og-ur-messe.no info@gull-og-ur-messe.no Japan Jewellery Fair (JJF) Date: 26–28 August, 2014 Venue: Tokyo, Japan www.japanjewelleryfair.com info@japanjewelleryfair.com AMBERMART Date: 28–30 August, 2013 Venue: Gdansk, Poland www.mtgsa.com.pl d.daszkowska@mtgsa.com.pl


Dear Readers, I am welcoming you to sunny August, just returning from a whole year planned vacation, and now you are rested, full of new energy and forces. Summer for most of our holiday time, when for a short time makes you want to break away from the carefully designed fast pace of life, business change agenda mild and pleasant relaxation with its closest humans ... just to be alone and relax. Our summer issue of the magazine as well as less business, it takes you to the wonderful world of art, introduse you to jewellery art events “Number 10. Victoria“ in Lithuania, “Legnica Festival of SILVER“ in Poland and the “Aqua Terra“ in Kaliningrad (Russia) over the jewelry art for events. We invite you to take a look at professional and distinctive styles of the artists from various countries, evaluate diverse jewelry art pieces created with infinitive imagination. Enjoy the works of the authors, who were already well-known and get to know new names. Find yourself a new idea here, get inspired. Also, you will learn about the most interesting and unexpected events of the 10th anniversary exhibition of Baltic jewelry “Amber Trip”. The region of Kaliningrad (Russia) remains the most scandalous neighbor in the Baltic region. The radical changes in makes to believe that the adopted programe for strategic development of amber jewelry industry eventually will give the results, and very soon we will have an international exhibition of amber. You never know, whether Gdansk should be worried, but they will have to share the name of the Amber Capital... This time the rubric of personalities introduces two authoritative figures who are recognized in the world of amber art, who are always warm and smiling – Virginija


and Kazimieras Mizgiriai from Lithuania. The International Amber Association awarded them with “The Best Partner of Amber Business 2012” award. I would like to congratulate jewelry companies that are celebrating the anniversaries. This year, “House of Amber” in Denmark is celebrating its 80th anniversary. It is one of the oldest and largest companies in the world that produce exquisite jewelry pieces. One of largest amber companies of Lithuania that are well known in the international world of amber “Amber by Mazukna” celebrating their 20th anniversary.

Have a nice reading! ANGELE JUODZEVICIENE Editor-in-Chief


Profile for Baltic Jewellery

Baltic Jewellery News (March 2014) No. 26  

Baltic Jewelllery News – 100 page magazine published in English, since 2005 and distributed in the whole Baltic Sea Region countries: Lithua...

Baltic Jewellery News (March 2014) No. 26  

Baltic Jewelllery News – 100 page magazine published in English, since 2005 and distributed in the whole Baltic Sea Region countries: Lithua...

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