Baltic Jewellery News (March 2013) No. 24

Page 1


March 2013 (24)

Dear Readers, The Baltic amber is one of the continuous topics of our magazine, therefore, in this number, we once again present the latest information about the “numb and humansoul-warming tears of the Sun”. The year 2012 was indeed eventful for the amber jewellery in Kaliningrad – the largest source of amber in the world. The jewellery industry obeys the general business laws. Business, like everything in life, can be compared to a chess game: pawns can make some steps, some can ride with a knight, and however, we all perfectly know that the world is dominated by the powerful. Tenacious and responsible work, ability to feel the pulse of time and professionalism guarantee success for them. Rubric of the “Topicalities” – activists that are worth awards for populism, cult and renewed Koreikos of "Aukso veršis" ("Golden Calf") in Kaliningrad and Ukrainian amber that is in legal state of weightlessness – Belikovai from

tions for jewellers’ preparation and a single common de-

"Žmogus futliare" ("Human in tube")

sire – to create and donate beauty to the surroundings.

A very opposite example of professional enterprise -

Also read about: The President of the CIBJO spoke

legends of amber business, Mr.Amber's story. Unique and

about corporate social responsibility, transparency in busi-


ness relations. Despite scepticism, it is very important and

Also, the most important and bright amber event in the

relevant today’s topic. I really hope and look forward to

Baltic Sea region – the 10th Anniversary of International

your opinions about the issue to our next number of the

Baltic Jewellery Exhibition “Amber Trip”. One question


interview with Giedrius Guntorius, the organizer of the exhibition “Amber trip”.

Happy reading,

We offer you several articles about preparation of professional jewellery experts in Lithuania, the Kaliningrad


Region, Russia and Finland. You will see different condi-


CONTENT: August 2013 (24)


Topicalities 4 “Deadlock of the Year”: After a year of intense disputes on the 6 9 14 18 21 24 27

fate of the amber industry, its future is still uncertain Extraction of amber in Ukraine – issues and Prospects

Polish jewellery report Amberif’s 20 th Anniversary Sees A Third Generation Of Amber Artists The 14th Gold Silver Time Trade Fair Gold and Silver in Crafts

Kaliningrad REGION RF Jewellery Report Solar Heat of Amber and a Glow of Emerald Assay Supervision of Kaliningrad Region Staff Training for Amber Industry in Kaliningrad Region Art and Industrial College

31 34 36


Lithuanian jewellery report One question about the ANNIVERSERY Conceptualist with Cubist Dimension Studies of metal arts and jewelry in Lithuania Vilnius Academy of Art, Telsiai Faculty, Metal Plastic Department


Soft Jewellery Elze Sakalinskaite Combination of Jewellery and

40 41 44 54

Statistic of the Public Institution “Lithuanian Assay Office”

57 58

Textile – Inspired by Love Jewellery Business Trends in Lithuania Promotion of Lithuanian Jewellery Business Development A new jewellery platform in Vilnius

Belarusian jewellery report The Belarusian Jewellery Market has the Necessary Transparency Belorussian jewellery holding “KRISTALL-HOLDING” will increase its domestic jewellery production capacity in 2.2 times

60 61 65 66


68 71

Latvian jewellery report Statistic of the Publish Institution “Latvian Assay Office” RAYNIK – Fine Jewelry of High Quality

Estonian jewellery report Hallmarking of jewellery is not obligatory in Estonia Castle in the Air

German jewellery report The Gemworld Munich – a glimmer in autumn

Dannish jewellery report The Danish Jewellery market is facing severe changes in the future


Anniversary Precious 2013


Jewellery education in Finland


Sweden jewellery report


Finnish jewellery report Norway jewellery report Norwegian Jewelry and Watch Trade Fair 2012 was a success

Worldwide Report 80 Official Price for Raw Amber by “Kaliningrad Amber Combine” 81 The Worldwide Price for Raw Amber 82 The Worldwide Price for Raw Amber 83 The Worldwide Price for Amber Silver 925 Jewellery 84 Istanbul Jewelry Show in March will be the premiere marketplace 88 89

for conducting business and networking The IIJS SIGNATURE show at its optimum in the sixth edition Gaetano Cavalieri outlines comprehensive jewellery industry CSR doctrine, founded on defensive, proactive and disclosure principles

Geommology 90 Treated and synthetic diamonds: can you identify them yourself? 92 Our business is special It is related to people’s emotions and stable value of gems

Personality 98 Mr. Fehrn – a legend in amber business


Other 102 Caricature 104 Criminals 105 Baltic Jewellery News Announces 106 Fastest Way To The Baltic Sea Region! 108 Our friends 110 Congratulate Baltic Jewellery News/ March 2013 (24) Ausros Vartu str. 15–5, LT-01129, Vilnius, Lithuania Tel.: +370 5 2120823; fax: +370 5 2608497; E-mail.: Editor-in-chief/ANGELE JUODZEVICIENE/+370 5 2120823; E-mail: Designer/DANA SMITIENE/ Reporter:


Poland/A. Sado/; Kaliningrad Region RF/V. Khlebnikov/; S. Kalinina/; O.Voloshina/; Ukraine/E. Belichenko/; Lithuania/A. Juodzeviciene/; V. Pavalkiene/; E. Dean/; L. Keriene/; Violeta Kisielienė/; Latvia/P. Brangulis/; Estonia/Jelena J. Muhhamedjanova/; Pekka Erelt; Sweden/A. Axelson/; Belgium/J. Van Royen/; Finland/A. Altarriba/

Distribution in the whole Baltic Sea Region Population over 80 million Copyright: Contents of “Baltic Jewellery News” are copyright. ISSN 2335-2132 Reproduction of material in part or in whole is no permitted in any form without the written authorization of the publisher. The editorial office is not responsible for the content of advertisements and for the accuracy of the facts presented by the authors.

We invite all those whose interests are related to our goals to join our project. Only with the help of various discussions perspective of the jewellery business of the region can become clear and the magazine – better. Thank you for the cooperation!


“Deadlock of the Year”: After a year of intense disputes on the fate of the amber industry, its future is still uncertain Report by Vadim Khlebnikov


he clouds have never piled up over the regional

system nor amber processing facilities in Russia,” despite

amber industry as heavily as in 2012. In fact, an

the fact that the cost of raw amber exceeded the cost of

intense concern of authorities and security forces

processed one, exported from Russia, by more than 15

is a dead loss so far: a businessman Viktor Bogdan is still

times in 2009–2011.

exercising his powers as the Amber Combine’ dealer by

The press service of the Accounting Board has noted

exporting dozens of tons of amber through Lithuania;

the following in its report:

intermediary companies are suing out tax authorities for VAT refunding; while local legislators’ success in suppress-

 exports mainly take place through intermediaries

ing the illegal extraction of amber might be merely called

using various “dimmed” schemes.


 meanwhile, exports are several times higher than

Aggravation started in February, when the chairman

the volume of purchases of raw amber, officially pro-

of the Accounting Chamber of the Russian Federation,

duced at the plant.

Sergei Stepashin, came to Kaliningrad to launch audit

 the intermediary companies received signifi-

of the Amber Combine and hold a private meeting with

cant amounts of VAT refunded for export of amber,

security officials. Stepashin had hardly arrived before the

Nevertheless, no legal assessment was provided –

Governor Nikolai Tsukanov, whose relations with the man-

whether VAT was refunded legitimately or not.

agement of Amber Combine have not initially worked out, began to accentuate, “When I asked to let me into the

Regional Office of the Ministry of Internal Affairs,

territory to see where amber is mined, what’s all this toil,

jointly with the Federal Security Service Directorate and

how it is allocated, and where the processing site is, I was

the Department of the Federal Tax Service, have found

turned from. The Governor was not let in! As they said,

“illegal VAT refunding scheme related to the exports of

“We will not show You, this is a no-go area and special

amber from the Kaliningrad region” and initiated crimi-

security,” stated Nikolai Tsukanov.

nal proceedings under the articles of “attempted crime”

It must be said that the chairman of the Accounting

and “fraud”. According to the investigation, in the pe-

Chamber has straightaway smothered the voice of Nikolai

riod from 2007 to 2010, “lawbreakers acted on behalf of

Tsukanov on privatization of the Amber Combine, so em-

two limited companies, registered for counterfeiters,” and

phatically, that the governor had later to explain away that

submitted to tax authorities a set of false certificates on

nothing like this could have entered his head. However,

raw amber processing and further sales.

Stepashin infused hope into the governor of the region by


noting that the partial participation of the “government”

starting from an original purchaser to an exporting organization,

in controlling the Combine would be appropriate. The actual results were “secure” by prohibiting the


publication of relevant data. The only thing became known from the poor press release, published by the Accounting Chamber, that “there was neither efficient


“Artificially overpriced” amber was sold abroad, al-

ment of the administrative responsibility for the unau-

lowing the intermediaries to submit to the tax authorities

thorized extraction and sale of amber, yet, the seizure of

a refunding claim for a total amount of 2 million, 800

equipment is proposed “upon court order” only. As for the distribution of amber and customs duties,

Federal Security Service Directorate initiated proceed-

at the very end of the end, the Federal Minister of Finance

ings directly against the main actor in the local amber mar-

besieged Nikolai Tsukanov, by stating that, in his opinion

ket – Viktor Bogdan. In mid-2012, officials of the Service

(which, given the fact that the Minister of Finance is the

reported that in February, 2011, upon customs clearing

owner of the combine, is more important than opinions

of a truck, loaded with amber of “Amber plus” owned

of “third parties”), there was no need to introduce the

by Viktor Bogdan, going to Lithuania, representatives of

duty, while a matter of introducing auctions and trade

the company provided inaccurate information on the ori-

exchanges should be carried “over 2015.” By that, officials

gin of the exported amber. The batch was withdrawn on

usually mean “let's amicably forget about it.”

the grounds; Federal Security Service (FSS) has launched a criminal investigation upon the export of illegally mined stone. The results have shown that the goods withdrawn consisted of two parts. The first batch, weighing 9.5 tones and costing 17 400 EUR, contained amber that had been officially purchased at “Amber Combine” – the only company in the region, licensed to mine amber. The second batch, weighing 10.3 tones and costing 27 500 EUR, “did not meet quality standards of the Amber Combine and had not been purchased at the manufacturer.” Though, the Federal Security Service Directorate could not initiate criminal proceedings, as the cost of illegally exported amber was less than 37 000 EUR. Leningrad District Court convicted ”Amber Plus” Ltd. of an administrative offense, decreed to withdraw the batch of amber weighing 10.3 tones and to impose a fine of 7 500 EUR on the company.

Lithuanian Customs Preventive Service arrested amber contraband

Afterwards, Kaliningrad Regional Court changed the judicial decision of the inferior, upheld a part on withdrawal

Nikolai Tsukanov has also failed with the establishment

of amber, but cancelled the fine.

of control on amber deposits free of the Amber Combine.

The last time of this year, when Viktor Bogdan ap-

Because of the omission made by the representative of

peared in sight of media, was October, upon showing a

the Governor in courts – Aleksandr Vorobyov, the region

documentary on “Rossiya 1” TV channel – “Kray yantar-

has lost five land plots with total area of 570 hectares

noi lihoradki (Land of Amber Fever”, where he said with

in Zelenograd district, containing amber deposits, sold by

a smile, “I’ve conquered not just a huge country I’ve con-

structure of “Avtotor” to the company of Viktor Bogdan.

quered the whole world, you know?”

Partners have mentioned construction of a private am-

Meanwhile, regional officials have shown not a small-

ber plant as, by the way, one of the recent plans of the

er concern toward the “police actions” in the amber in-


dustry than the security forces. Since the beginning of the

The bottom line is as follows. The regional govern-

year, they had been developing an amber industry devel-

ment has not decided upon any amber industry develop-

opment plan, and, eventually, stayed with a fairly simple

ment plan over the year; moreover, their decision will not

solution: a severe penalty for illegal extraction, export du-

be soon as long as totally subject to the Federal Minister of

ties of 20–25%, and introduction of transparent amber

Finance. There is no news from the security forces about

distribution system.

any profound investigations in the industry. We cannot

Over the year, a work on upgrading of penalties for

but hope that both of the bodies belong to the category

illegal mining seems to have progressed, yet, not enough.

of people who are “slow starters but drive fast.” Though,

State Duma has approved the draft amendment: enhance-

Russian officials do not meet this saying. 



thousand Euro.


Extraction of amber in Ukraine – issues and Prospects Report by O.L. Geleta, PhD in Geol. Sciences, E.P. Belichenko, PhD in Geol. Sciences State Gemmological Centre of Ukraine (Kiev, Ukraine)


eposits of Ukrainian amber are concentrated in the north-western part of Ukraine in Rovno region. Current amber reserves of the discovered

deposits are estimated within 134.8 tons; while potential ones – over 950 tons. Commercial development of Ukrainian amber deposits was launched in 1993, upon foundation of the state-owned amber extraction and processing enterprise “Ukryantar” in Rovno. The first Ukrainian amber, extracted by SE “Ukryantar,” rolled off the production line in May 1994. Amber extraction averaged 2.5–3.0 tons per year and took place at the “Pugach” quarry of the Klesov amber deposit. In 2005, the amber extraction monopoly was abol-

Ukrainian amber specimen weighing 942 grams, from the collection of the State Gemmological Centre of Ukraine

ished, though, the complexity of the Ukrainian legislation still prevents from increasing the number of extracting companies. In September, 2009, the Ministry of

In Kaliningrad region (Russia), amber is extract-

Environmental Protection of Ukraine held an open auction

ed illegally as well; Ukraine is, certainly, no excep-

where the Centre “Solnechnoye Remeslo” LLC acquired a

tion, isn’t it?

license to mine amber in the Vladimirets Vostochny amber

O. L.Geleta, PhD in Geol. Sciences (hereinafter

deposit. The Centre “Solnechnoye Remeslo” LLC conduct-

O.G.): The state amber production was launched almost

ed a geological survey but never started the extraction.

simultaneously with the illegal amber extraction, start-

SE “Ukryantar” was reorganised to the state enterprise

ed by local population – the so-called “black” miners.

“Yantar Ukrainy.” Since the end of 2009, amber extrac-

Whereas the early 90’s had single instances in areas of

tion at the “Pugach” quarry was quitted due to the deple-

near-surface amber deposits, in the last decade, its extrac-

tion of reserves.

tion became wide-scale due to vast regional occurrence

How many tons of amber were extracted in

of development, closed areas (forests, planting), remote-

2012 on average... or, amber is no longer extracted

ness from urban areas, and easily-accessible develop-


ment by both mechanized and manual ways. According

E.P. Belichenko, PhD in Geol. Sciences (hereinaf-

to estimates of legal bodies, illegal amber extraction has

ter E.B.): The only companies, that have special subsoil

exceeded its extraction by SE “Yantar Ukrainy” by more

use permits for the extraction of amber, are SE “Yantar

than 6 times. (Estimate was made on the basis of extrac-

Ukrainy” and the Centre “Solnechnoye Remeslo”; how-

tion before 2010. No amber was extracted by SE “Yantar

ever, they are not currently conducting any mining.

Ukrainy” in 2012, 2011, and 2010). Illegally mined amber

According to the latest data, the Centre “Solnechnoye

is bought by intermediaries or individuals and smuggled

Remeslo” LLC is done with preparation of permits and is

out of Ukraine for sale or further processing.

going to launch a commercial amber production in 2013.

Unauthorized and uncontrolled amber extraction

SE “Yantar Ukrainy” is also preparing its permits.

greatly harms a natural ecological balance of the region.


Examination boards of subject ministries are

there were identified over 200 hectares of land,

solving whether for the amber to be or not to be

destroyed as a result of the “black’ miners” activity, the

legal in Ukraine? ... What specific steps were taken

environmental remediation of which would take decades.

in 2011–2012 after the rejection of the law in 2010?

(Note by BJN: The State Gemmological Centre of Ukraine

O.G.: After the rejection of the law in 2010, no par-

has no official information on the number of illegally

ticular steps were taken in 2011–2012 to address the

mined amber out of 200 hectares of land).

issue of amber, except for holding negotiations, corre-

It is not quite possible to prohibit local population

spondence, elaboration. At present (in 2012), the State

from extracting a natural stone and to enforce such a ban,

Geological Service of Ukraine is working on improving the

as almost all of the extraction takes place in remote areas

law on subsoil; in particular, it considers the possibility of

which are hardly controlled by legal authorities.

introducing the type of subsoil use, such as manual mining amber

in the deposit areas of non-commercial mineral reserves.

is illegal extraction and the lack of a legiti-







Manual mining (clear requirements for manual activities

mate, official market. How could this issue be

have not been anywhere prescribed) is considered as the


main method of amber extraction in non-commercial ar-

E.B: One of the rationales to solve this issue is to le-

eas, which will allow to significantly reduce the amount of

galize non-commercial extraction of minerals, and, in par-

illegal amber extraction.

ticular, amber, by manual method.

Introduction of manual extraction of minerals, includ-

Legal framework and principles of government regu-

ing amber, will promote an effective state regulation of

lation in mining, production, and use of precious metals

subsoil use, prevent an illegal extraction and sale of min-

and precious stones are regulated by the Code of Ukraine

erals, ensure a compliance with environmental legislation,

“On Subsoil”, the Law of Ukraine “On State Regulation

and allow to create new jobs on site, to obtain additional

of Mining, Production, and Use of Precious Metals and

revenues to the state and local budgets. Is the Ukrainian amber jewellery based on the

Precious Stones, and Control over Operations with

illegal extraction of amber?..

Them,” as well by several by-laws. These instruments stipulate that amber mining activities shall be conducted by

E.B.: Partially on old stocks, partially in the Kaliningrad

economic entities only upon acquisition by them a special

raw material, there are no talks about any illegal buying of

permit to use the subsoil and on the basis of licenses ob-

raw materials... 

tained in accordance with the law. According to experts, the issue of unauthorized amber

Ukrainian amber

extraction is possible to solve only upon enforcement of legislation, which provides for the introduction of manual extraction of minerals, as well as upon the introduction of amendments to the existing legislation. In 2010, the draft law of Ukraine “On Amber” was introduced on approval to the Ukrainian parliament. The draft law proposed to simplify the procedure for obtaining special subsoil use permits for the extraction of raw amber in non-commercial amber deposits and developments. During the first reading, Verkhovna Rada of Ukraine has promoted the draft law; however, the examination board of subject ministries has not supported it, rather pointing individual regulatory limitations. It was emphasized that the implementation of the draft law provisions would result in non-competitive relations within the granting of subsoil for use, would not ensure the rational use and conservation of subsoil; thus, the draft of the amendment to the Law of Ukraine “On Amber” was rejected.



According to Rovno State Administration, as of 2012,

Sees A Third Generation Of Amber Artists Report by Amberif press office


he first jewellery fair in Gdańsk had 49 exhibitors.

when AMBERIF started,” says LUX owner Joanna Bryksy.

The second one–as many as 104. Today, the total

“Design and machines have changed most of all. The cus-

number of exhibition stands has grown to more

tomers are far more demanding and their tastes are great-

than 450. A third generation of amber artists is now

ly diversified. Even if they come from the same country,

growing up with AMBERIF.

each one of them orders different products.

Filip Wiedrycki of the ARHEWI-JUNIOR company be-

“Can you get bored with amber after so many years?”

gan his AMBERIF journey as a teenager, helping his par-

we ask.

ents. The Wiedrycki family are true veterans of the trade:

“You cannot get bored with amber,” replies Joanna

Wiedrycki Sr would try to sell his amber products at tour-

Bryksy without a shade of hesitation. “Each piece is differ-

ist fairs, when no professional jewellery show was held

ent. To me, for example, milky amber is the most beautiful

in Gdańsk yet, and prior to that he had worked at the

but no one wants to buy it.”

Precision Engineering Company located at 5 Beniowskiego

What wishes can we have for AMBERIF on its 20th

Street, where the MTG SA exhibition centre was later es-


tablished. The Wiedrycki family began with a 3 m2 exhibi-

“I think we will stick together for another twenty years,” replies Joanna Bryksy. 

tion stand, now they do business on 9 m2. They say it is not about satisfying an infinite appetite. “We have reached the production volumes which we

Jewellery by „Art7”

are satisfied with; we aren’t interesting in expanding,” Filip Wiedrycki says assuredly. We asked Wiedrycki Jr whether his children will also work with amber, just as he himself took over from his parents. “Besides my jewellery business, I work as a professional fire fighter. I have two daughters, four- and sevenyears-old, and there is no indication of either of them showing any special interest in jewellery making, and I certainly won’t force them to take it up,” are Filip Wiedrycki’s thoughts on the future. Over the twenty years of AMBERIF, many things have changed: design, product weight, technology, ways of exhibiting, but what hasn’t changed is the fact that the show is the driving force for business. LUX is a family business established in 1975. At the first AMBERIF, they presented 215 designs, today–more than 2 thousand. “We are a whole world away from the early 1990s,



Amberif’s 20th Anniversary

Amber Abram company specializes in producing the highest quality jewellry from baltic amber and exotic wood. Our objective is to ensure the highest quality of services and products. We offer unique products made of exotic wood combined with natural amber. There also amber jewellry in our offer, for example: beads, necklaces for children, bracelets, etc. Jewellry produced in our workshop has its own unique


customers' fancy.






The 14th Gold

Trade Fair

Silver Time

Report by Anna Sado Editor of the Amber Portal

Exhibitors are going to show a representative offer for the whole Polish market: from jewellery and watches, through semi-finished goods, tools and machines, to wrappers and exhibition elements. An important role goes to amber – the gem with which Poland is associated by people all over the world. Last years brought departure from traditional design of silver jewellery with amber for the benefit of modern and light forms. Polish artists as well as production companies are increasingly referring to natural stones as they give greater possibilities of artistic creation and are better valued by customers. Every year, there is a growing importance of the sector of fashion jewellery fascinat-

At the Gold Silver Time fair 2012


ing with its vivid colours, astonishing ast edition of trade exhibition Gold Silver Time,

combinations of untypical materials and innovative look at

considered to be successful, not only proves the

the decorative function.

leading role of the event but it also is a harbin-

The 14th edition of the event will pass under the sign of

ger of positive trends at the Polish jewellery market. This

further strengthening the brand of markets mainly through

year’s trade fair is likely to be at least as good.

promoting the exhibitors and their offers. This aim is

Gold Silver Time is a proven form of business com-

served by numerous exhibitions of contemporary jewellery

munication on the international scale. Despite the eco-

art, periodical preparatory competitions arranged togeth-

nomic difficulties of this trade branch in the whole world,

er with professional organisations for artists and jewellery

the event is still developing and enforcing its brand on the

designers (presentations) as well as goldsmiths-craftsmen

map of world’s fairs for jewellery and watchmakers.

(Gold and Silver in Handicraft), and also the most prestigious among them – Poland‘s Minister of Economy for Best


Product Award at the fair Gold Silver Time. We would love to welcome you at the trade fair Gold

and this year, organisers expect to maintain the same level as the previous year, i.e. about 300 EXHIBITORS and

Silver Time: 4–6 October 2013. 



POLISH JEWELLERY REPORT Marta Wlodarska (Amberwood) – Necklace with natural red amber

Arek Wolski – Silver necklace


Gold and Silver in Crafts Report by Gold Silver Time press office


n this year’s 10 th edition of the

smithery has been launched at the

tional Fair Centre, PSP Visual Arts

competition Gold and Silver in

Gold Silver Time fair.

Studio; Iwona Lis-Filipczyk – master of

Crafts, the competitors were free

The contest jury, which consisted

goldsmithery (Katowice); Waldemar

to choose one of the two “fairylike”

of: Janusz Kowalski – the chairman,

Wroński – master of goldsmithery

topics: The Snow Queen and One

OKZ-J ZRP; Dorota Ząbkowska – the

(Gdynia), and Jarosław Dytkowski –

Thousand and One Nights. The exhi-

Ministry of Culture and National

master of goldsmithery (Warsaw),

bition of works by masters of gold-

Heritage; Wanda Gontarska – Interna­

awarded the following competitors:

The Seniors Category, topic: The Ring of the Snow Queen (“Pierścień Królowej Śniegu”) fot.

2nd place Piotr Musiał, the work titled The Ring of the Snow Queen (“Pierścień Królowej Śniegu”)

1st place Ewelina Jurowicz, the work titled The Snow Breath (“Śnieżny powiew”)

3rd place Jan Krzysteczko, the work titled The Ring of the Snow Queen (“Pierścień Królowej Śniegu”)



The Seniors Category, topic: The Ring of the Snow Queen (“Pierścień Królowej Śniegu”) – computer generated works

1st place Cyprian Chorociej, work titled The Spirit of the Snow Queen (“Dusza Królowej Śniegu”)

2nd place Jakub Śliwowski, work titled Frosted Roses (“Oszronione róże”)

The Juniors Category, topic: Jewellery from One

Thousand and One Nights REPUBLIC OF POLAND

(„Biżuteria z baśni tysiąca i jednej nocy”)

EU, NATO, Hallmarking Convention Capital Warsaw Official language Polish Currency Złoty (PLN); 1 EUR – 4.1885 PLN Time zone CET (UTC+1) – Summer (DST) CEST (UTC+2) Area – 312 685 km 2 Population (2012) 38 273 582 Government Parliamentary republic President Bronisław Komorowski Prime Minister Donald Tusk GDP (PPP) Per capita (2012) 16 527 EUR Latvia Ethnic groups 91.6% Poles Lithuania 8.4% others Kaliningrad Region Largest cities Warsaw 1 716 855 Belarus Krakov 755 546 Lodz 739 832 Poland

1st place Sandra Karolina Muraszkowska, work titled The Rose of Scheherazade (“Róża Szeherezady”) 2nd place Dawid Przybyła, work titled The Ring of Kurrat Al-Ain (“Pierścień Kurrat Al-Ain”)


Zamosc, ul. Kollataja 2/4, Poland tel. +48 84 638 51 22

and a Glow of Emerald Report by Svetlana Kalinina Press secretary of Kaliningrad Amber Combine


aliningrad Amber Combine is the only state unitary enterprise of industrial amber production and processing on the Russian coast of the

Baltic Sea. Kaliningrad region embraces over 90 percent of the world's amber reserves. Besides, Europe's largest Malyshev emerald deposit is under the supervision of SUE “Kaliningrad Amber Combine” for several years as well. Last year, the Amber Combine celebrated its 65th anni-

Yuri A. Mukhin, General Director of FSE “Kaliningrad Amber Combine”

versary which was attended by hundreds of its friends and partners.

The world's largest amber mine

Preliminary Results Performance of 2012 is commented by General Director of SUE “Kaliningrad Amber Combine”, Yuri Mukhin, “Technically, we are happy with the result. All the objectives, that we had set, were succeeded. Though, our efforts were much greater than in 2011 – a peak in terms of turnover when we over passed 25 m EUR on receipt. In 2012, production volumes were lower than last year. An annual production plan amounted to nearly 210 tons; we did not believe we could achieve more under those circumstances. Nevertheless, we actually extracted nearly 300 tons. This is of the first importance; the team has done a great job.” A subsidiary of the Combine – JSC “Yantarny Yuve­ li­r­prom,” that produces under the brand name “Amber Combine”, has operated at a profit for the first time per three years. Its turnover was 2.5 mln EUR and resulted in changes of the jewellery design, renewal of the range of products, modernization of jewellery production, and

Malyshev emeralds

development of a network of company shops.

How amber is mined In Primorsky Krai, solar stone deposits are at a depth of about 50 meters. A layer of blue clay – glauconite, containing the amber, averages 7 – 9 meters. Baltic amber is estimated to be about 50 m years old. The process of amber mining in an open pit consists of several stages. 



Solar Heat of Amber


specified in our maps – in those places, amber was eroded and washed away by a glacier. Hence, the content of the stone in the layer was smaller as well. There emerged a need to strengthen the monitoring of the state of subsoil waters in the field; groundwater had to be continuously pumped out... Production costs rose. All this affected the cost of raw amber.

Legal Battle Last year, the Amber Combine faced land issues. Stripping operations on the mining lease, legitimately con-

Malyshev emerald

trolled by the Combine, became an object of numerous legal battles. Unfortunately, the land over this mining lease turned out not to be belonging to the Enterprise. A lease of the land was agreed only in the middle of last year. Yuri Mukhin, “The situation is complicated by the fact that though we have resolved the land issue last year, now we're again wasting time due to the assignment of these lands for industrial purposes. In 2013, we will be forced to execute mining right “on the back” of stripping works. This is the most expensive mining operations. And the most intense for all the staff of the Combine, since they will have

Baltic amber

to be especially coherent. No standstills will be allowed – either in stripping or mining operations.”

The first stage – stripping operations when dozens of meters of soil are removed to get to the layer of “blue

Emerald News

clay.” Upon reaching the amber layer, a stripping team

The Amber Combine holds a long-term license to

moves on to new areas. The second stage begins when a mining team chooses

develop an emerald and beryllium deposit in the Urals.

the richest deposits on land, enters the exposed area, and

Famous Malyshev emeralds are being mined here since

starts mining. In Soviet times, stripping operations used

the 1830s. In 2012, about 50 thousand of tons of emer-

to be ahead of mining ones for about ten years. In recent

ald ore were extracted in this deposit. An emerald pro-

years, the time gap has gradually decreased.

duction plant, commissioned in the spring of last year, has extracted over 60 kg of emeralds by the end of 2012. In

Natural Factor

January 2013, the plant held the first auction of emeralds,

In a 50-metre deep amber pit, miners always have to

which displayed more than 50 kg of raw gemstones, in

be alert – the nature prepared a number of surprises for

total 9 lots, for sale. Two of the lots – emeralds in lump

humans in the very prehistoric times. The season of 2012

ore, intended especially for collectors. “The results of the

has distinguished by operations in highly challenging geo-

auction showed that the amount of revenue was 15

logical conditions in the area of glacial erosion. Ancient

percent higher than stated in the price list,” says Yuri

underground rivers and lakes, formed back in the Ice Age,

Mukhin, “By the end of 2013, the Ural department of

were discovered. Before mining, the waters had to be

the plant is planning to launch lapidary production.

pumped out. A moving ice-flow often used to drag along

We want to sell more than just raw materials. If the

both huge granite boulders and light, almost weightless

company facets large stones by itself, their price will

amber. A geological survey cannot foresee all circum-

increase about five or six times.” The objective of the

stances, so, sometimes, blue clay occurs to preserve very

integrated development of raw materials is becoming rel-

poor amber deposits. In 2012, experts noted the follow-

evant for the plant. Experts estimate that the value of the

ing: not everywhere the stone appeared to be as the one

stones annually increases by nearly 10 percent. 



Inspectorate of Assay Supervision of Kaliningrad Region


Report by Olga Konstantinovna Voloshina Head of Western State Inspectorate of Assay Supervision of Federal Governmental Institution “Russian State Assay Chamber under the Ministry of Finance of the Russian Federation”

ewellery branch in Kaliningrad region covers traditional manufacture of silver jewellery with amber. For a while, production of gold jewellery amounts to 9%

of the total. Development of the branch is steady and has good prospects. A range of jewellery products is quite diverse: from exclusive handicrafts to stock-produced articles.

IN 2012, 656 ENTITIES OF ENTREPRENEURIAL ACTIVITY WERE REGISTERED IN WESTERN SIAS, including 223 entities engaged in the manufacture of jewellery. 433 businesses carry out retail, wholesale, and commission trade in exhibitions, as well as buying-up and pawn activities. Many of them are engaged both in the jewellery manufacture and retail trade. In 2012, 92 entities began their activities; 22 of them – jewellery manufacturers (24% of the total amount of specially registered in 2012). 


“Russian State Assay Chamber under the Ministry of Finance of the Russian Federation” During 2012, there were assayed:

Gold – 103 173 pcs.

Silver – 1 167 087 pcs.

The number of products tested has almost reached pre-crisis amounts: The price of assaying and marking services applied to domestic producers

Gold: up to 2 grams – 0.25 EUR per unit. over 2 grams – 0.37 EUR per unit.

Silver: up to 15 grams – 0.07 EUR per unit.

Foreign-made products

Gold: up to 2 g. – 0.5 EUR per unit. over 2 g. – 0.62 EUR per unit.

Silver: up to 15 g. – 0.15 EUR per unit.


Western State Inspectorate of Assay Supervision of Federal Governmental Institution

Art and Industrial College

Interview with Svetlana M. Petropavlovskaya, Director of State Budget Educational Institution of Secondary Vocational Education Art and Industrial College, Candidate of pedagogic sciences, honoured teacher of RF, Companion of Order of Honour

In which year was staff training for amber industry launched? Who has influenced taking the decision which is so important for the amber industry of Kaliningrad region? A centralized staff training for amber industry started at the State Art and Industrial College in Kaliningrad in 2006. The department of jewellery art for training amber industry’s craftsmen was opened by efforts of the college administration, supported by the Ministry of Education, and approved by the Ministry of Industry and Culture. It was difficult to teach students the art of amber with the absence of any amber crafter study programme. These activities had never been funded or ordered by the State before. Amber industry’s enterprises did not cooperate with us. Nor we knew about staffing needs. Despite all these challenges, making friends with the

active participants of exhibitions, competitions, academ-

Amber Museum was the beginning of the integrated and

ic seminars, held by the Amber Museum; they became

intense studies in amber production. Students became

acquainted with the top experts of the amber industry. The museum actually became a creative laboratory of the College.

Student work

The major changes of the College were determined by the meeting held by the Government of the region in Yantarny and attended by the governor and managers of leading amber industry’s companies in 2011. It was a true breakthrough in relations with enterprises. We began to establish close connections with the "Amber Union" at a rapid rate. Chairman V.A. Simonov and O.F. Glinskaya were actively involved in the College’s life. A great job was done by “Yuvelirprom”, headed by O.G. Alyavdin. There appeared numerous applicants for obtaining employment. We are especially happy to see employers coming to select personnel. O.G. Alyavdin has arranged an excellent month-length traineeship for 15 students 



Staff Training for Amber Industry in Kaliningrad Region


Student work

with the title of “Shkola na Yantarnom Puti (School on the Amber Way)”. The ceremonial of the title “School on the Amber Way 2011”, award and certificate granting was held in the Amber Museum in Gdansk on 15 Apr 2011. This award enabled the College to assert itself as an educational institution, training specialists for the amber industry. Participation in exhibition, competition, and project

Student work

activities provides a priceless experience to teachers and at “Yuvelirprom”. In general, he has shown tremendous

students of all areas; it stimulates learning and creativity

concern about the students, starting from a foreman, ap-

in their work. 

pointed by him for the team, to an artist. How many graduates have been trained? Have they stayed working in the Kaliningrad region? During the existence of the department, we have


trained 95 professionals. All of them got employed in the Kaliningrad region – some set up their businesses, some

Administrative center Kaliningrad Official language Russian Currency Ruble (RUB); 1 EUR – 40.6910 RUB Time zone (USZ1 (UTC+03:00) Area 15 100 km 2 Population (2013) 954 978 Government Federal semi-presidential republic Governor Nikolay Tsukanov President Vladimir Putin Latvia GDP (PPP) Per capita 15 570 EUR Ethnic groups Lithuania 86.4% Russians 13.6% Others Kaliningrad Oblast (Russian Federation) Largest cities Kaliningrad 431 100 Belarus Chernyakhovsk 51 771 Poland Sovetsk 42 619

became private entrepreneurs, and others were employed by the Amber Combine at “Yuvelirprom”. At present, the College has received over 100 applications on staff training for amber industry. We have held a number of author meetings with jewellers, artists, and designers, as well as exhibitions and competitions. In September 2013, there is going to run the second educational Russian-Italian project, managed by K. Laimer – “JEWELLERY DESIGN: NATURNS, ITALY – KALININGRAD, RUSSIA.” A French-Russian Amber Museum’s project “Purple Street” and Association "Once a Craftsman" have initiated the creative cooperation with French artists and craftsmen. Another area of international cooperation – the Republic of Poland. In 2011, the College was awarded


LITHUANIAN JEWELLERY REPORT The decision where to hold the first Amber Trip exhibition was very historical – the capital, the Old Town, the Town Hall of Vilnius City, the so-called Residence of Vilnius Mayor

One question about

the ANNIVERSERY Interview with Giedrius Guntorius, head of International Baltic jewellery show “Amber Trip”.


his year “Amber Trip” celebrates its 10th anniver-

this show?.... And I was ashamed to tell them that I have

sary and I will ask you only one question:

not done anything about this issue. In this way I became a

How far the year 2004 seems to you now?

hostage and was forced to look for a crew that could help

“Amber Trip” was actually born not in 2004, but in

to implement this. In a very historic manner, we have cho-

2003... When I was flying on the plane from one jewellery

sen a place in the capital of Lithuania, old town, Vilnius

show, I had an idea: “How nice it would be, to have an-

town hall, so called residence of the Mayor of Vilnius.

other show in Baltic region for amber and jewellery indus-

There was enough space in this building and the aura of it helped to arrange the 1st show.

try and develop this industry of jewellery business. After another half a year, this idea came back to me with an-


other question: “Why am not I doing this?...” I was struck because I understood it was because I did not tell about it to anybody. Little by little, telling to some people, I was watching how future participants and visitors react. I was

The 1st show was succesful and all of them were con-

really surprised by their enthusiasm and acceptance about

tent: the participants of the show, VIP BAYER, guests.

making this show come true.

They all have come to their expectations. After such suc-

After these simple market investigations, when not

cess, the show had to find another place for itself. The

even one month has passed, I started to get calls from

amount of participants, who wanted to participate in

those people, asking me how I am doing while organizing

another show, grew out to be triple. We chose a place 



V Anniversary "Amber Trip" team, 2008


LITHUANIAN JEWELLERY REPORT “Amber Trip” 2004 – 2013 super team: Angele -“Baltic Jewellery News”, Liudmila - project manager “Amber Trip” 2012/2013, Giedrius – boss, Klotilda – project manager 2008/2011, Jurgita – project manager 2004/2008.

that is not standard because it is essential for us to main-

was getting bigger step by step, together with the

tain another aura, different form traditional shows. We

amount of participants and visitors. The unexpected chal-

chose a hotel with a huge conference hall. Back then it

lenge was the crisis, despite that, WE ALL TOGETHER did

was called “Reval hotel Lithuania” and now – “Radisson

not stop, but went and reached this beautiful anniversary

Blu hotel Lithuania”. It is a cozy and comfortable place for

– 10 years. And decade – this already proves the

both participants and the most important – VIP BAYER.

LONGEVITY of the show. It is another additional

Then, only here and only in this way we saw a long-

guarantee for all jewellers of the Baltic region. Me and my

term perspective to stay in international calendar of jewel-

crew have enough willingness and determination to walk

lery. It was not easy to reach this. Sometimes the amount

the path that we have chosen. 

of participants would be much higher and it would not

But probably I stopped too much on your “ONLY ONE QUESTION”?... We – “AMBER TRIP” are glad with this SPECTACULAR ANNIVERSARY. And if the same question you asked me again ("How far, to your opinion, is the year 2004?"), the answer would be short: WE WERE GLAD when it WAS 2004 and we are glad now, when it IS 2013!

get enough guests from countries all around the world, and sometimes the situation was different. But maybe every show has to put up with this and to make accurate decisions in order to reach the best results. This is how this show has come to its 5 year anniversary. This first

anniversary has shown the STABILITY of the show. Our friendly motto AMBER TRIP TO AMBERIF was a good advice. In the next years, we continued our work. The show




with Cubist Dimension Report by Eglė Dean Art Critic


he young jeweller Marius Zakaras, a graduate of Telšiai Faculty, within five years of graduation became a brilliant and original artist. Chosen

conceptualism as his creative direction, he uses the idea as an art-generating mechanism. Chosen the concept as a primary source, he still does not devalue aesthetics by finding the essence of beauty in his purified shapes. According to the artist, he strives to make each piece of art beautiful, he believes, it is the issue of conscience. One as well may mention good taste, absence of cliché, use of new aesthetically-defined approaches. As a teenager decided to become a jeweller, Marius Zakaras recklessly reached his goal. The advent of visual system has proved

Marius Zakaras

to be original and innovative, especially in materials selection – the artist likes to use difficult-to-process titanium.

mammoth ivory, mahogany, amber, titanium, in the art-

Although he also uses organic materials, such as ebony,

ist’s choice, remains the leader. Rejecting the gloss and pomp, Zakaras is playing with textures and juxtaposition of several metals. According to him, the gloss is just for

Peace headstock

the corners, the object itself first of all is a shape and texture. The shape must be deliberate, non-accidental and “clean”. Many works have been developed on the basis of the cubism style but finding a new, unfamiliar shape. The influence of cubism appears in the purity of shapes, laconicism, generalisation, rugged architectonics. The importance of thought, the desire that the object first of all would mean something, non-submerging into formalism, however, is the most highlighted feature of the creator. Zakaras does not lack craftsmanship, either – the objects are fulfilled with responsibility, as the creator himself says, he always chooses drilling, soldering or mechanical anchoring instead of glueing. Such an attitude is an example of the artist’s approach to jewellery, he does everything, from start to finish, surprisingly accurately, precisely and following the best traditions of the author jewellery. Interestingly, Zakaras does not draw preliminary sketches before creating a piece of art, the creator immediately takes metal, wood or ivory. When in transformation, the material dictates the shape and texture.



Marius Zakaras is closely related to the exhibition “Amber Trip”. Still a student, he used to participate in the exhibition and can only express his experience of good words; once, in the lottery, he even won a black diamond. Therefore, after taking the second place in the jewellery competition “Azur” in the exhibition “Amber Trip” in 2012 (this winning guaranteed him a display place in the exhibition of 2013), the artist devotes all his free time for the development of the new collection. For the first time the artist’s works will be presented to international community, for the first time his artistic direction will become available to take a closer look. Master thesis "Jewellery"

Zakaras is waiting for “AMBER TRIP” with hopes because what will happen in the exhibition WILL HAVE A DIRECT IMPACT on his future career.

porary but involves past achievements, such as cubism, reconsidering and recreating the historical achievement of art and applying it – renewed and reframed – to the creation of new shapes. Here, the mystery is related to the rec-

And it is not important whether he is immediately under-

ognition of past trends and philosophical aspects of the

stood, or his philosophical implications are immediately

search for new creations. Besides, you can always go back

apparent, it is important that at least it would be nice

to and enjoy the aesthetic beauty of the pieces, so fresh

to look at his works. According to the artist, he has not

and reminiscent of the golden ratio. Marius Zakaras has

noticed any lack of competition in the organisation of the

found a mathematical formula of da Vinci’s time, where

competition, he is very satisfied with the evaluation ob-

technical parameters determine beauty and wave them

tained and this simply encourages him to participate in

to the absolute. It doesn’t matter how you look at the

such competitions in the future.

Marius’ works, they excites and make you think, which is

Marius Zakaras was born and raised in Panevėžys. His

the sign of the creator.

normal school routine was broken by his mother who de-

Welcoming contemporary Lithuanian jewellery, the

cided that her son should attend art school. After gradu-

artist admires many works, recognizes different styles and

ating from art school, but still studying in high school, the

is pleased that creators are strictly adhered to their identi-

artist was thinking about his future profession. He wanted

ty. At the same time, he is the one among them, the name

that art would become a part of his life. He was attracted

that we will repeatedly hear as one of the most interesting

by two specialities, i.e. architecture and jewellery. Marius

representatives of the jewellery art. 

chose the latter and have never had any hesitation about his decision. He created his first work at high school, dur-

Work "Lungs"

ing the technologies classes. The task was to make wind chimes. It was his first work of metal. Marius Zakaras is often asked what is his main source of inspiration. The artist says that he is influenced by many things, he could not distinguish one. His spiritual drivers are the desire to develop, discovering new shapes, colours, mutual relevance of materials. Zakaras dreams that one day his works will excite people by their mystery, that his works would not only be accessories, but also a means to convey the past, present and future ideas. The works of Marius Zakaras is already mysterious and linking past tendencies with innovative and original contemporary thought. His works are extremely contem-



Studies of metal arts and jewelry in Lithuania Vilnius Academy of Art, Telsiai Faculty, Metal Plastic Department

Report by a professor Laima Keriene


ontemporary Lithuanian jewelry and professional

the Vilnius Academy of Arts, are already teaching as well.

metal arts began to form in the end of the sixties.

The study program is based on the principle of idea + craft.

Then, the art life was filled with artists, who have

It seeks for the relevance of creative projects and integra-

graduated from the Tallinn Art Institute, where Estonian

tion into the culture. Now, Telsiai Faculty at the Vilnius

professors, who have adopted traditions of German and

Academy of Arts has two departments: Metal Plastic and

Scandinavian universities, have been teaching. Professors

Design. Those two have five art and design undergraduate

from Telšiai Faculty, who have studied at Tallinn, adopted

programs (BA). The most popular is Metal Arts and Jewelry.

strong artistic and professional preparation and character-

There are 60 students, who are enrolled in these studies,

istic, strict, restrained Nordic expression. Today, the school

and each year 15 graduates graduate from the university.

is open to the world art trends; it is constantly evolving,

(Until 2011, it was called the Jewelry and Smithery).

and acquires more and more new forms of expression. The

The first and second year is all about gaining academic

artists of younger generation, who have graduated from

knowledge and learning about the basics of this profession. While studying the basics, professors emphasize the knowledge of old and

Mante Maskoliunaite „Feelings”

unique technologies in goldsmithery and smithery. In the third and fourth year, students develop the sense of identity, creativity, and social integrity. The main course is Metal Plastic. Students analyze current topics; individually choose an object of creativity and forms of expression. Teachers, who create in various fields of metal arts and jewelry, supervise the tasks and share their experiences with students. Professor Romualdas Incirauskas is a known author of small and architectural metal plastic, sculptural plot works, and medals. Professor Laima Keriene creates




drawing, and also she is a specialist of goldsmithery. A docent Beata Zdramyte is an artist of conceptual jewelry. A docent Remigija Vaitkute


LITHUANIAN JEWELLERY REPORT Justina Liaudanskyte “Neringa secretions”

Martynas Vaitiekunas „The roles“

creates medals, small plastics, and specializes in mold-

some bright and creative individuals and professionals

ing. A docent Vytautas Matulionis is a famous Lithuanian

of high artistic level. The members of Lithuanian Artists’

goldsmither and enamel painter. A docent Mindaugas

Union are Sarune Vaitkute and Dainius Narkus, Sandra

Simkevicius is a sculptor, who is interested in performance,

Malaskeviciute, Vita Pukstaite, Ugne Blazyte, Beata

art, and art of object in public places.

Zdramyte, Jurgita Erminaite Simkuviene, Egle Cejauskaite

Telsiai Faculty organizes experimental laboratories,

Gintale, Julius Vaitkus, Aurelija Simkutė Endrieke, Asta

creative practicum, projects, collaborate with artists from

Simkeviciene. Telsiai Faculty alumni Beata Zdramytė

Lithuanian and abroad. Over the past 3 years, an artist

and Mindaugas Simkevicius came back to teach, and

from Polish Giedymin Jablonski is actively working in the

they were awarded with the docent name at the Vilnius

Department of Metal Plastics. Together with students he

Academy of Art for their creativity and teaching. Egle

has already implemented projects of conceptual jewelry:

Tamošiunaite successfully established her studio at Vilnius

European Identity, Happy End, Systems of Values,

Old town, Neringa Poskute and Ausra Vindzigelskyte

Dolce et decorum.

Maciulaitiene opened their gallery-workshop in the Old

Vilnius Academy of Arts participates in the interna-

town of Klaipėda. Albinas Jukumas, Mindaugas Bumblys,

tional student exchange program Erasmus, and has a con-

Andrius Janulis, Kestutis Tikuzis established their forges.

tract with a number of European universities. Some of the

Jurgita Ciutaite Bugailiskiene actively worked at Anyksciai

students have been gone to study in Estonian Academy of

municipality: organized and implemented national and

Arts (Estonia), Tartu Art College (Estonia), Escola Massana

international projects, and now she is starting to create

(Spain), University College of Arts, Crafts and Design

again. Several work on the Lithuanian Mint.

(Konstfack) (Sweden), Edinburg College of Arts (Great

A number of students were forced from their home-


land due to economic situation. However, those, who feel

The highest aim of the studies is the final thesis, and

a strong call to create, find their place abroad. Although,

fourth year students are already matured for it. Graduates

it is not easy. For example, Mante Maskoliunaite and

may pursue individual creativity: artistic jewelry and black-

Ausra Bankauskaite earned their recognition in New York

smithing, small-form sculpture, creating medals, and ac-

as a jewelry artists, Inesa Grigaite successfully works in

tivities in other fields of art and design. In case students

one of the jewelry companies in Norway.

have a lack of material basis and experience, some young

Art of metal and jewelry is a unique undergraduate

specialists are employed by jewelry, amber, metal process-

program. Many graduates, who want to work and im-

ing companies. Those, who have opportunities and am-

prove as a metal artists and jewelers, can create works of

bitions, establish their own workshops. The employment

contemporary jewelry, small, architectural metal plastic,

of graduates depends on personal qualities and interests.

work as craftsmen, at the manufacturers’ companies, res-

On the other hand, it depends on employers’ openness to

toration workshop, cultural and educational institutions,

employ and develop a young professional.

participate in the contemporary art projects in Lithuania

Fates of graduates, who live in Lithuania, are very

and abroad. Each year, companies contact Telsiai Faculty and request for the artists of rare profession. 

different. Some of them work quietly. There are also



Soft Jewellery

Elze Sakalinskaite Combination of Jewellery and Textile – Inspired by Love Report by Sonata Baliuckaite Art Critic For her Master’s work, the artist chose well-liked archaic gold threads laying technique used in Renaissance. The artists created the collection of glowing-in-the-dark textile buttons “Be visible” (lt: „Būk matomas“), only this time she used the luminescent thread. The artist says that the idea born when trying to create exceptional, unique pieces of jewellery, which would not only be functional but also have a symbolic meaning. The first artist’s meeting with jewellery was in Turkey, where she was learning the mysteries of textile and jewellery. “Here I started to combine these two fields of art. After getting acquainted with metal, I already knew that I would never come back to textile alone. Metal cutting, grinding as well as embroidery is like meditation for me, relaxation and escape from everyday worries,” the artist talked about the union of the two techniques. Connection with jewellery has remained ever since. Elze Sakalinskaite

The artist creates jewelry, participates in exhibitions. In


2010, in the gallery “Art Niche” (lt: „Meno niša“), Elze love my family – this was the declaration made by the

presented her first solo exhibition of jewellery “Laid

textile Elze Sakalinskaite when she completed the un-

with golden threads” (lt: „Aukso gijom klota“). The art

dergraduate studies at the Vilnius Academy of Arts.

critic Karolina Tomkeviciute wrote: “Saka-linskaite does

Simple, clear but brave. In contemporary art, where the

not limit herself with knowledge and practical experi-

aesthetic of ugliness is getting more and more popular

ence acquired during the textile studies, she ventures

and problematic themes are more relevant than ever be-

upon unexpected creative searches. In her accessories,

fore, it is very brave to be sentimental. Elze created 10

the artist combines the opposite poles: cold metal and

objects for her undergraduate work – 10 gifts for each

warmth-emitting gold threads. In artist’s works, brass,

member of her family. In this work, Elze combined textile

silver is combined with embroidery, weaving or knotting.

and jewellery, thus, her artistic way has begun.

The glow of precious metals gives baroque splendour and


Brooch from the collection “Be visible”

the feeling of sanctity. Most likely, this style of jewellery was inspired by the architectural originality and beauty of the textile’s home town – Vilnius. After studies in Turkey, oriental motives, which can be seen in artist’s works, appeared – bracelets, brooches, pins are decorated with black tassels and paisley. Elze jewellery can be divided into two parts. One of them are decorative and conveying natural motives: brooches transforms into birds, insects or


plants; while the other one is of more stringent shapes, more restrained, here, geometric motives become hidden

Elze Sakalinskaite works convey warmth, love and

symbols. Most of the accessories gives the impression of

comfort – she creates the things that are subtle and nice.

heaviness, however, the chosen technique allows creating

The artist’s pieces of jewellery gives this feeling, you want

an easy textile piece of jewellery”.

to wear and admire them. 

Exclusive Amber Jewellery

Produser: UAB

„Inkliuzija”, Vilniaus al. 10a, 66119 Druskininkai, Lithuania Tel.: +370 686 59993 / +370 698 76558 / Fax +370 313 55884 /




Statistic of the Public Institution

“Lithuanian Assay Office” Information provided by Public Institution “Lithuanian Assay Offic”

Over 2012 the Lithuanian Assay Office assayed and hallmarked precious matal articles:

Gold – 270 000 items Silver – 1 150 000 items Lithuanian Assay Office (“Lietuvos prabavimo rūmai”)

Contact: M.K. Ciurlionio g. 65, LT-66164 Druskininkai, Lithuania +370 313 51183 / /


Report by Virginija Pavalkienė Head of Legal – Inspection Division of Lithuanian Assay Office


the amendments to registration regulations on 26 October

Lithuanian Assay Office has seen the year 2012 out

2012, concerning economic entities engaged in commer-

with the growing demand for the company’s services, com-

cial-economic activities related to precious metals and pre-

pared with 2009; though, an amount of precious metals,

cious stones. Providing that registration of any entities was

presented for assay in 2012, is similar to one in 2011.

in force on 26 October 2012 or they are going to register

The past year has distinguished by a particular growth

in the Lithuanian Assay Office in future, the entities’ regis-

in demand for precious stones, provided to the Lithuanian

tration in the Lithuanian Assay Office will be open-ended.

Assay Office, identity and characterization services. As

The registration procedure itself became simplified

compared to 2009, demand for these services raised by

and clear – it is enough to submit a registration applica-

50% in 2012. This demonstrates as increase in demand

tion to the Lithuanian Assay Office prior to commencing

for more expensive, yet, more valuable articles of jewel-

the activities. Fairly speaking, this application is rather of a

lery as well.

declaration on the planned operations with precious met-

At the same time, it should be noted that the pro-

als, indicating the type of activity (production, trade, etc.),

portion of silver and gold articles, presented for assay in

business addresses and contacts to locate a company’s

2012, has divided in favour of silver. A similar trend was

customer at any time.

observed in the previous 2010 and 2011. We cannot state

The application does not require any additional docu-

that silver products are more in vogue than gold-ware,

ments to be attached. It considers abolishment of pre-

but it is obvious that silver is rather affordable to custom-

viously valid requirements, for example, carrying out

ers in terms of cost.

operations with precious metals only in non-residential

Products became “lighter”; that is, since 2010, small-

premises, by submitting a premises status supporting doc-

er, rather “filled” articles, which are lighter in weight, are

ument or a pawnshop work time arrangement, issued by

presented for assay. Certainly, a smaller weight, quite of-

municipality for submission to the Lithuanian Assay Office

ten, but not always, determines a lower and more afford-

along with the application.

able to a buyer jewellery price.

Business representatives may submit all type of applications – on the economic entity's registration, on reg-


istration of its responsibility mark, or on re-registration

2012 was the year of revising secondary legislation of

any branch of the institution in Vilnius, Kaunas, Klaipeda,

of the mark – directly to the Lithuanian Assay Office at

the Republic of Lithuania regulating operations with pre-

Siauliai, or Druskininkai, either by email.

cious metals.

Entrepreneurs’ documents, signed by electronic sig-

Any amendments, entered into force in 2012, have

nature, are equivalent to documents in writing. It should

substantially facilitated (simplified) the precious metal

be noted that we have received only 2 copies of such type

business environment.

of documents during 2012, that, in our opinion, points to

Perhaps the key change, in particular welcomed by

the lack of popularity of the highly convenient for busi-

business representatives, is the abolishment of entrepre-

nesses tool of submitting documents to the Lithuanian

neurs’ obligation to re-register in the Lithuanian Assay

Assay Office. Hopefully, entrepreneurs realize in the near

Office every 3 (three) years, upon coming into effect of

future that the document signing by e-signature not only 



Jewellery Business Trends in Lithuania


shortens the travel-time of documents to the state institu-

Lithuania, the frequency for re-registration of the respon-

tion, but it is also a guaranteed submission of documents

sibility mark has been reduced only in respect of precious

at cheaper shipping costs.

metal business representatives with the status of artist.

A novelty is the technical feasibility, created in 2012

In 2012, while amending the precious metal account-

by PI “Versli Lietuva“, established under the Ministry

ing rules, a lot of redundant requirements were abol-

of Agriculture of the Republic of Lithuania, for all busi-

ished – the only requirement was retained stating that

nesses, including precious metals business representa-

any precious metals business representative, regardless of

tives, to contact all state authorities under a “one-stop

whether it is a legal entity or a natural person, must carry

shop” approach via document submission system on

out a precious metals accounting in accordance with the

general accounting requirements.

As our practice shows, our corporate clients’ adaption

As early as in 2011, the Lithuanian Assay Office, along

to more favourable business environment is not dynamic –

with the majority of state inspection authorities, signed

so far, we have not received any documents submitted via

the Declaration on the First Business Year. So, in 2012,

the said document submission system.

our company's employees complied with the provisions

Nevertheless, the Lithuanian Assay Office focuses on

of the Declaration during the inspection – they consulted

modern customer communication methods; therefore,

economic entities, running their businesses for the first

at the very beginning of 2012, together with PI “Versli

year, provided methodological support, yet, did not apply

Lietuva,“ it launched a project “Shifting Administrative

any sanctions (fines or restrictions on activities, etc.), even

Procedures, Relating to Permits, Issued by State and

upon identifying violations. The identified violations were

Municipal Institutions and Agencies, to Electronic Media”

given a deadline to eliminate them. If an entity fails to

on the partnership grounds. While implementing the pro-

eliminate the violations within the specified term or com-

ject, we plan to shift more Lithuanian Assay Office servic-

mits new ones, provisions of the Declaration shall not be

es to the electronic space. Project completion is scheduled

applicable and imply sanctions against the entity.

for the mid-2013.



Within the period from 31 December, 2006, to 31

the Lithuanian Assay Office publishes all newly registered or deregistered economic entities in the public state institutions’ permit register

December, 2012, a number of registered economic enti-


ties has almost doubled – from 617 to 1196.


We believe that publication of information on legal (i.e., registered in the Lithuanian Assay Office) precious

metals businesses, as well as announcement of informa-


tion on termination of such businesses, will help both to


protect interests of ordinary consumers – jewellery buyers


and ensure the integrity of business transactions. One of the major legislative amendments is a legalized


exemption for precious metals businesses, with the status


of artist, to re-register their responsibility mark every 3


(three) years.


Before 26 October, 2012, a responsibility mark of any

0 2006

entity – a manufacturer, an importer, or any other entity,





entered into the precious metals market – was subject to obligatory re-registration every year. Upon change in the Requirements for Registration the Responsibility Mark at the initiative of Ministry of Culture of the Republic of


According to data as of 31 December of a calendar year.




During the economic downturn, there was also an increase in the number of pawnshops, accepting precious metals, precious stones, which has grown from 132 in 2006 to 240 – at the end of 2012. There was a significant increase in economic entities that purchase and sell precious metals, precious stones, their products and scrap – correspondingly from 186 to 387. A number of jewellers, producing precious metal- and precious stone-ware, has increased from 181 to 308 dur-

A number of small-scale entrepreneurs, operating un-

ing the period from 31 December, 2006, to 31 December,

der a business license or an individual activity certificate,

2012. Among them, 151 legal entities and 157 individuals

has more than doubled for the period from 31 December,

were engaged in manufacturing at the end of 2012.

2006, to 31 December, 2012 – from 142 to 348.

In recent years, there was an increase in investment

Upon coming into effect of the Law on Small

gold traders – from 14 economic entities in 2006 to 38

Communities of the Republic of Lithuania as of 1

entities by the end of 2012.

September, 2012, three such communities were registered

Besides, a new activity has emerged and is gain-

by 31 December, 2012.

ing ground – precious metal and gemstone product e-commerce. At the end of 2006, this business was operated only by a single closed joint stock company. By 31


December, 2012, this activity was legalized by 14 compa-


nies and 10 individuals.

STONES, in 2006–2012* by status (units) CHANGE IN THE NUMBER OF ECONOMIC




IN 2010–2012** (UNITS)


1125  150


0 2006








0 * According to data as of 31 December of a calendar year ** The Law on Small Communities Republic of Lithuania which became 1 September 2012

2010 of effective



the on

Economic entities, running activities with precious

* According to data as of 31 December of a calendar year ** The same economic entity may run several activities

metals, precious stones, and thier products, are generally

engaged in distribution of these products – in wholesale and retail trade. Within the period from 31 December, 2006, to 31 December, 2012, a number of these companies has increased from 560 to 1016.



OPERATIONS with precious metals and precious stones are mainly carried out by joint stock an /or closed joint stock companies, a number of the registered ones was 262 – in 2006, and 568 – by the end of 2012. There were registered 194 individual enterprises in 2006, and 246 – by the end of 2012.


Promotion of Lithuanian Jewellery

Business Development Report by Angele Juodzeviciene


Zumbrickas’s individual enterprise and 26 other

International Baltic Jewellery Show “Amber Trip”, it is go-

Lithuanian jewellery business enterprises have

ing to present the production of Lithuanian amber and

received the European Regional Development

jewellery producers to its potential clients and partners.

Fund support. Participation in the 10 th ANNIVERSARY

The project aims at encouraging Lithuanian amber

International Baltic Jewellery Show “Amber Trip” was

jewellery companies to search more actively for foreign

compensated with 49% of the total costs.

partners. It stimulates raising international awareness

Public institution Enterprise Lithuania (VšĮ “Versli

of Lithuanian amber and jewellery producers by using a

Lietuva”) under the Ministry of Economy of the Republic

group initiative as well as participating in international

of Lithuania provided partial funding to the companies

events in Lithuania and abroad.

participating in the international shows, where export

“International exhibition and business missions are

potential of the company groups (hereinafter “IGEI”) as

one of the most effective export development instru-

well as expansion of business relations is going to be

ments. Cooperation of companies and formation of clus-


ters strengthens their competitiveness, for this reason we

The group of Lithuanian jewellery companies took ad-

especially encourage export development initiatives of groups of companies. We see a growing initiative “from 

vantage of this opportunity. In the 10th ANNIVERSARY



Enterprise “Misara”, Olegas Lenko, Jonas Damzen’s

selves and are participating together in the international

Personal Enterprise, Audrius Lukauskas, UAB “Aukso cen-

exhibitions or business missions. It shows their motiva-

tras”, Alfredas Daulius’s Individual Enterprise, Martynas

tion as well as serious intentions and determination”, says

Kaubrys, Darius Tamašauskas, Algirdas Marčius, UAB

Director General of Public institution Enterprise Lithuania

“Ambermozaika”, Dainius Gadliauskas, Marius Dūda,

(VšĮ “Versli Lietuva”), Paulius Lukauskas.

R. Benetis’s enterprise “Lašas”, Vytautas Jukna, Edita

For the project of E. Zumbrickas Individual Enterprise –

Šarkuvienė, E. Dunauskas’s enterprise “Pajūrio krantas”, R.

participation in the "10th Anniversary International Baltic

Balšaiti’s Amber Studio, D. Milius’s Economic Commercial

Jewellery Show Amber Trip 2013", EUR 19 816 were al-


located, i.e. 49% of the total costs.

IGEI’s encouragement is one of the activities of the

The following companies participate in the pro-

project titled “Opportunities for Business Creation and

ject together with E. Zumbrickas’s Individual Enterprise:

Expansion” of Public institution Enterprise Lithuania (VšĮ

Astijus Jasaitis’s Amber Company “NAPOLEONAS”, UAB

“Versli Lietuva”), intended to be funded by European

“Sidabrine kameja”, UAB “RMD linija”, A. Kleišmantas’s

Regional Development Fund. The planned allocation by

Individual Enterprise “DU SAFYRAI”, UAB “Saniston

the end of 2014 is EUR 1,7 million. 

Baltic”, UAB “Silver Amber”, UAB “Amber Tree”, Individual

A variety of amber products Amber DM

D.Miliaus UKI +37068759712, +37060613750 E-mail: skype: dainius777xxx



the bottom”, when enterprises are forming clusters them-

Stone processing and collectible examples Cabochons and jewellery by special orders


Jewellery tools & equipment â?Ś Decorative stones Silver details â?Ś Packing bags / Tel.: +370 698 55360, +370 612 05330 E-mail:

OJSC Gomel PO CRYSTALL – state-owned company for 40 years, one of the best by leading companies in Belarus and the global market. The main activity of OJSC Gomel PO CRYSTALL is production of precious metals jewelry with precious stones inserts and polished diamonds inserts, production of State awards by request of the Administrative office of President of the Republic of Belarus. View this company’s jewelry with Yakutia diamonds and precious stones is delivered to nearly every major country in the world. Even such high-level companies like”Cartier” and “Tiffany” have already purchased diamonds shaped jewelry his masterpieces, and the Arab Emirates, Sheik sends special orders for unique jewelry. In 2011, Moscow, OJSC Gomel PO CRYSTALL has become an international professional master contest winner “Best cutter”. This great victory reaffirms Yakutia diamonds flawless manufacturing quality.The quality management system of the enterprise has been certified to comply with the international requirements of ISO 9001–2001.

UAB "Aukso Centras"

Trakų st. 6–24, LT-01132 Vilnius, Lithuania

Tel. +370 5 212 12 14 / Fax +370 5 212 16 22 /


Indre Giedraityte, an artist, a custom designer and Algimantas Seselskis, an amber master jeweller

A new jewellery platform in Vilnius


URVYNE – this is a new jewellery platform in

has been found throughout the ages. This idyllic place in

Vilnius. It was originally the initiative of two young

a nature reserve is where Algimantas was born and spent

Lithuanians to open a combined workshop with a

his childhood.

showroom in the heart of Old Town Vilnius. It is now locat-

There were also lots of curious crows poking around

ed at Literatu street (see a map attached). Those budding

the village and surrounding sand dunes. To live in isola-

creative are Indre Giedraityte – an artist and a custom de-

tion is a death sentence for the bird. They even raise there

signer and Algimantas Seselskis – an amber master jeweller.

young as community. The birds' ways are very creative

So let us explain just a little bit about “PURVYNE” title.

and intelligent when it comes to sustaining themselves

Directly translated from Lithuanian the word PURVYNE

and ensuring the prosperity of the flock. There is an old

would not necessarily become a typical name for a jew-

Lithuanian proverb “Varnas varnui akies nekerta” loosely

ellery shop. Just because the word itself means “mud”

translated as “Birds of feather flock together”.

or “quagmire”. Historically it was and still is a name of

In our quite challenging times economically it is not

a small fishing village on Curonian spit where sea amber

easy for a lone artisan to earn his or her daily bread. “One


to put creative in a linked community and pull their energies together and collectively in a complete synergetic fashion.

intensifies though when one feels strongly about the people around and what is happening to the world. The current 'global village' civilization state promotes interconnectedness and forges a great variety of meanings and interpretations for its cause. Combining the ancient matter of amber with modernistic materials like medical caoutchouc and contemporary design and styling approaches reflects the idea of prehistory entangled with our day to day lives and responsibilities. 

REPUBLIC OF LITHUANIA EU, NATO, Hallmarking Convention Capital Vilnius Official language Lithuanian Currency Lithuanian litas (LTL); 1 EUR – 3.4528 LTL Time zone EET (UTC+2); Summer (DST) EEST (UTC+3) Area – 65 200 km 2 Population (2012) 2 979 000 Government Parliamentary republic President Dalia Grybauskaite Prime Minister Algirdas Butkevicius GDP (PPP) Per capita (2012) 15 931 EUR Ethnic groups (2011) 83.7% Lithuanians, 16.30% others Largest cities Vilnius 542 932 Latvia Kaunas 336 912 Klaipėda 177 812 Lithuania

Jewellery by “Purvyne”

can learn a lot from a crow's flock these days” – Algimantas insists. That is the idea behind PURVYNE place – to put creative in a linked community and pull their energies together and collectively in a complete synergetic fashion. Where does the inspiration for a specific jewellery de-

Kaliningrad Region

sign come from? Indre believes that inspiration is just like love itself


and – “comes without a warning”. An urge to create





That is

Market has the Necessary Transparency Information prepared by Balarusian Assay Inspectorate under the Ministry of Finances


he infrastructure of the Belarusian jewellery mar-

How many entities operating in the field of jew-

ket is sufficiently developed and has the neces-

ellery (producers and sellers) were there registered

sary transparency. The state carries out a balanced

in Belarus in 2012? How many of them started their activities in 2012?

national policy on the precious metals and stones market management. There are no barriers to entry to the market

In the Republic of Belarus, doing business in the field

of new members, regardless of the form of ownership or

of precious metals and stones must be licensed. Licences

nationality of the capital.

are complex, i.e. under a single licence activities may be

The jewellery industry in Belarus has been introduced

conducted in several areas subject to licensing (works and

by both large-scale producers of jewellery products of


public and private ownership (OAO “Gomelskoje PO

All in all, 11 works and services related to precious

“Kristall”, jewellery factory “Zorka”), as well as small en-

metals and stones may be licensed, including retail and

terprises (ZAO “Belgran”, jewellery factory “Egrett” and

wholesale trade as well as production.

other) and jewellery workshops.

ON 1ST JANUARY 2013, 311 LICENSES granted the right to

In the Republic of Belarus, a compulsory national hallmarking of the precious metal products produced in

manufacture or sale precious metal and stone products. IN 2012, 45 LICENCES out of the mentioned amount were obtained.

Belarus and intended for sale in its territory is required. Such requirement applies to the precious metal products imported to the Republic of Belarus for sale as well. From 2010, a voluntary hallmarking was introduced for the precious metal products produced in the Republic

Also in 2012, upon the request of licensees, the exist-

of Belarus and intended for export from its territory.

ing licences were being often complemented by expanding their scope. 

The following assays have been fixed to precious metals intended for hallmarking:

For more information on licensing refer to: Regulation of the President of the Republic of Belarus No. 450 dated 2010.09.01.

 Platinum – 900; 950;  Gold – 375; 500; 583; 585; 750; 958; (583 hallNumber of products hallmarked in 2012:

mark may only be applied to products manufactured by individual orders);

Gold – 903 000 items

 Palladium – 500; 850;  Silver – 750; 800; 830; 875; 925; 960. Hallmarking is performed by the State Assay Super­ vision Inspectorate of the Ministry of Finances of the

Silver – 907 000 items

Republic of Belarus (hereinafter – State Assay Supervision Inspectorate).



The Belarusian Jewellery


Belorussian jewellery holding

“KRISTALL-HOLDING” will increase its domestic jewellery production capacity in 2.2 times

“Gomelskoe PO Kristall” jewellery

Angele Juodzeviciene interview with Ruslan Sorokovoj, CEO of the Managing Company “Gomelskoe PO Kristall”


oday the Belorussian jewellery market depends on

We discuss the structure and strategic tasks with

the import. The demand is chiefly satisfied by im-

Ruslan Sorokovoj, director general of the manag-

ports of foreign articles into the republic. At the

ing company of the jewellery OAO “Gomelskoe PO Kristall”.

end of 2012, a jewellery holding was created in the country. Such incorporations are beneficial for the national

The holding consists of 3 big jewellery compa-

economy: two industrial enterprises let out around 50 %

nies, state enterprises. How will the spheres of ac-

of domestic jewellery production, and in the total scope

tivities be distributed? OAO “Gomelskoe PO Kristall”, which is the biggest

of Belorussian sales of “everlasting treasures” their part makes 18 %.

producer of jewellery, brilliants and diamond instruments,


 the development and promotion of a united

holding. ZAO “Belgran” which also produces jewellery

brand of jewellery holding with OAO “Gomelskoe PO

and brilliants, and OAO “Beljuvelirtorg”, the greatest


state jewellery sales network in the Republic of Belarus,

 the creation of effective logistics of the domestic

have become the participants of the holding.

production jewellery supply and foreign production

In the jewellery holding, OAO “Gomelskoe PO Kristall”

jewellery purchases into a united network of the hold-

and ZAO “Belgran” will be implementing the tasks of in-

ing aimed at the maximal satisfaction of the demand

creasing production of jewellery, the permanent increase

and speeding-up of the turnover;

of quality and competitiveness on the basis of moderniza-

 the introduction of coordinated price policy into

tion of production facilities in accordance with advanced

the united sales network, using the possibilities of

technologies of jewellery production. OAO “Gomelskoe

transfer price formation;

PO Kristall”, will also ensure the promotion of brilliants

 the development of a united advertising policy;  the introduction of advanced methods of sales ac-

and domestic jewellery products in foreign markets. OAO “Beljuvelirtorg” is becoming the only retail net-

tivities aimed at the increase of realization scope in

work of the holding, and it will be performing the reali-

the united sales network of the holding.

zation of production of the participants of the holding,

jewellery production of missing assortment of other pro-

It is known that it is not the first year when the

ducers, including the imported products into the Republic

company OAO “Gomelskoe PO Kristall” is participat-

of Belarus.

ing at jewellery exhibition “Amber Trip”, what is your evaluation of this exhibition and how interest-

What aims, tasks does the Holding is raised?

ing, perspective is for you the Baltic market?

The strategic tasks of production activities of the jew-

In March 2013, OAO “Gomelskoe PO Kristall”, is plan-

ellery holding in 2012 – 2017 will be the leading develop-

ning to participate in the International jewellery exhibition

ment of jewellery production, keeping the leading posi-

“Amber Trip” in Vilnius for the third time.

tions among domestic jewellery producers, extending the

The participation in this exhibition allows to increase

jewellery assortment, increasing its quality and ability to

the level of recognisability of the brand “Gomel Kristall”

compete in ensuring the further development of new and

in the market of the Baltic states. For the visitors of the

present kinds of activity.

exhibition – to acquire products directly from the pro-

In order to reach these aims, it is planned by 2018:

ducer or to conclude contracts for the acquisition of high quality flawless jewellery “Kristall” produced from Yakut

TO INCREASE the scope of jewellery production in 2.2 TIMES; TO EXPAND the cooperation with foreign

diamonds that are the best in the world. 

partners of missing assortment jewellery production; TO INCREASE the scope of diamond processing production in 1.4 TIMES; TO INCREASE the scope of diamond instruments production in 1.5 TIMES. The strategic tasks of retail and marketing activities of the jewellery holding are to increase the part of domestic jewellery products in the internal market, to increase the efficiency of sales of jewellery and leading products. OAO “Beljuvelirtorg” will be seeking to implement the above-indicated tasks by strengthening the available competitive advantages of the united sales network as well as by creating the supplementary ones:

“Gomelskoe PO Kristall” jewellery



has become the managing company of the incorporated


Statistic of the Publish Institution

“Latvian Assay Office” Information provided by Public Institution “Latvian Assay Offic”

Over 2012 the Latvian Assay Office assayed and hallmarked precious metal articles:

Gold – 181 217 items Silver – 411 108 items During 2012 in Latvia were 1830 entities engaged in jewelry, 349 new places were registered in Latvian Assay Ofice. The Assay Office of Latvia (VSIA "Latvijas proves birojs")

Contact: Teatra str. 9, Riga, LV1050, Latvia +371 672 10009 / /


Angele Juodzeviciene interview with Nikolay Shalna, the Head of the Company “RAYNIK”

Tell us about how and when the Raynik Company was revived? The RAYNIK Company was founded in 1996. It was established for wholesale trade of jewelry made from precious metals. We wanted to enrich the Latvian market, filled mainly with consumer goods by that time, with fine jewelry of high quality. After all, the Guild of Jewelers of Latvia was formed back in January 25, 1630, which indicates that the traditions of jewelry art have deep roots in this land. Tell us about your experience. At the beginning we were supplying original silverware from the United States, Mexico, Italy and other countries, bringing the exclusive collections from international exhibitions. In 1995, diamond jewelry sales in the jewelry group

Jewellery by “Kiev Jewellery Factory”

increased to 28% in value terms. Diamonds have become the top selling product among variHow do you evaluate the Latvian jewelry market?

ous groups of goods. After becom-

Jewellery By “SIGAL”

ing the Kiev Jewelry Factory’s (KYUZ)

Now Latvia and other Baltic countries are flooded with

distributor in the Baltic countries, the

glass products (China), Swarovski, artificial sapphires, em-

RAYNIK Company started to supply

eralds, opals, rubies, though Western jewelry fashion dic-

high quality ware made of gold and

tates natural, organic stones. At the same time, the price


of these products with artificial stones is unreasonably

Since 2011, we are representa-

inflated several times. One of the main principles of our

tives of the Canadian company SIGAL within the territory

company – we strive to deliver only products with natural

of the Baltic States. SIGAL is a brand with a worldwide

stones. This applies to both silver and gold ware.

reputation. Its silverware is distinguished by the original

Our main business partners are Baltic jewelry compa-

design and the highest quality of workmanship. The brand

nies that want to compare favorably with the proposed

is always at the peak of fashion trends. David Segal’s pro-

range. After all, we have not only the exclusive ware,

jects are a visual expression of his style. When it comes to

made of KYUZ gold, but also white or yellow gold-coated

fashion and jewelry, David likes to say: “If you love it, wear

silverware with precious stones of the same level.

it”. If you want to have truly stylish jewelry to emphasize

How, in your opinion, has the

your look and personality, the stunning products by David

Latvian jewelry industry been

are definitely for you.

developing during the reces-

KYUZ and SIGAL use only high quality stones that

sion? How did you survive the recession?

have passed certification. Just before sending to Latvia, the KYUZ products take one more, additional control

Many small jewelry companies

check in the State Hematology Center of Ukraine.

Jewellery By “SIGAL”


have closed during the recession, 


RAYNIK – Fine Jewelry of High Quality


others have reduced the number of their stores. So far, I have not heard about them re-opening. We were not only able to survive in times of downtime, but we managed to develop new directions, in particular – SIGAL. We are also actively working with the Thai firms producing marcasite silver. We are the only company in Latvia that delivers expensive jewelry (necklace, brooches, bracelets) made of marcasite silver. Which jewelry exhibitions do you participate in? We have taken part in various jewelry exhibitions many times, both as participants and as VIP guests. The exhibitions took place in New York (USA), Bangkok (Thailand), Moscow (Russia), Vilnius (Lithuania), Warsaw (Poland), Riga (Latvia), Tallinn (Estonia). What are your future plans? Our company is moving forward, not stopping on what we have achieved. We plan to expand the geography of our customers-partners not only at the expense of the exhibitions, but also through the Internet-space. 

REPUBLIC OF LATVIA Jewellery by “Kiev Jewellery Factory”

EU, NATO, Hallmarking Convention Capital Riga Official language Latvian Currency Lats (LVL); 1 EUR – 0.6998 LVL Time zone EET (UTC+2) – Summer (DST) EEST (UTC+3) Area – 64 589 km 2 Population (2012) 2 217 053 Government Parliamentary republic President Andris Berziņs Prime Minister Valdis Dombrovskis GDP (PPP) Per capita (2012) 12 730 EUR Ethnic groups (2011) 62.1% Latvians 37.9 % others Largest cities Riga 706 000 Liepaja 301 621 Daugavpils 343 646

Jewellery by "SIGAL"


Latvia Lithuania Kaliningrad Region




Alex Amber

„B&G” Bogumila i Marian Kelar ul. Mariacka 2l, 80-833 Gdansk, Poland

Artistic jewellery & amber Sculptures Meninė juvelyrika & gintarinės skulptūros


Please, visit us Aplankykite mus



Amber Trip – Stand A24 Amberif – Hala A 224

+7 4012 473749 / +7 9114721433


Robert Bienko

Jewellery Silver Jewellery findings Machinery and tools Tel.: +48 603 114 132, +370 616 477 86 E-mail


Poilsio str. 7, LT-93200, Klaipeda, Lithuania

Amber-Bernstein Mob. +37068631576 / E-mail:

not obligatory in Estonia Jelena Muhhamedjanova Manager of Assay Office of Estonia


ince 2004 hallmarking of jewellery is not obligatory in Estonia. The compulsory marking on jewellery items is that of Sponsor’s mark and

Fineness Mark. In the same year the State Register of Sponsor’s Marks by the Government of the Estonian Republic was established. In Estonia, a Sponsor’s mark indicates a manufacturer and an importer, who is responsible for the conformity with the Precious Metal Act of the articles of precious metal. According to the actual dates, there are 128 manufacturers (a person or an enterprise), 131 importers and 50 enterprises, which have the registration as

items and about 3% of gold items did not corre-

manufacturer and importer (only valid registration

spond to declared fineness.

is taken into consideration) in the State Register of

About Assay Office of Estonia…

Sponsor’s Marks in Estonia.

According to the present legislation there are re-

At the same time, if jewellery item is marked

quirements for a company, which have the rights to

with EU country manufacturer Sponsor’s mark it

be named as Assay Office of Estonia. One of the main

may be sold without any registration in Estonia. As

requirement is the laboratory accreditation in the

a consequence of present legislation, the jewellery

scope of precious metals analyses according to EVS-EN

assaying and hallmarking has diminished. The jewel-

ISO/ IEC 17025 standard. Every five years the tender is

lery marking with Sponsor’s Mark and Fineness mark

announced for the competition between companies

is provided by manufacturer or importer without any

for contracting assaying with Estonian government.

additional control of the jewellery fineness. Thus,

Since 2004, Estonian Assay Office was the contracted

the quantity of hallmarked jewellery and the quan-

company. In 2008, the Assay Office was joint with AS

tity of enterprises in the State Register of Sponsor’s

Metrosert, Central Metrology Office in Estonia, and

Marks does not reflect the exact jewellery market in

continues its business as a division of AS Metrosert.


Only five experts are running everyday business in

It is a really free market, even for certification of

our division of Precious Metals. The jewellery marking

precious stones.

with Sponsor’s Mark (without checking of fineness)

As an example, in 2011 18500 ps. of silver jewel-

and jewellery hallmarking are very important parts

lery items and 3500 ps. of gold jewellery items were

of our activities, too. Also, there are gemmology and

checked and hallmarked according to wishes of the

expertise activities in our service list. 

manufacturers or the importers. In 2012, the quanContact: Aru 10, 10317 Tallinn, Estonia +372 6814833 /

tity of hallmarked jewellery was even smaller: 8000 ps. of silver items and 1000 ps. of gold items. Amongst the checked items about 20 % of silver



Hallmarking of jewellery is


Castle in the Air Report by Pekka Erelt


dozen years ago, the group of jewellery artists called ohuLoss (Castle in the Air) first stepped into the Marzee Gallery in the Netherlands.

Kadri Malk, Piret Hirv, Eve Margus-Villems, Tanel Veenre, Kristiina Laurits, Villu Plink and Katrin Sipelgas, who is now pursuing work in other fields. Their arrival was made possible by Estonian Academy of Arts professor Kadri Malk, who upon receiving the invitation to the exhibition issued an ultimatum to the Dutch: she would only participate if she could take some younger artists with her. And young indeed they were, some still in university. Some smiled superciliously: “Children on holidays!” But the smirking was quick to cease when these wunderkind put their first works on display. This was something new, a breath of fresh air from Estonia, Kadri Malk „Mid-day of Life”

Kadri Malk „As Mountain I remain Silent 2”


ESTONIAN JEWELLERY REPORT Eve Margus-Villems „Palisade”

Tanel Veenre „Les Fleurs du Mal“

Kristiina Laurits „M”

which had a jewellery art scene and traditions of which

are multifaceted, not just mini-Malks. Mälk teaches them

not much was known at the time. These young people

to think for themselves. Everyone must find his or her own

thought for themselves, boldly, quite differently, without

answer to the question of “why”. Castle in the Air’s re-

needing to lean on crutches borrowed from their teacher.

cent exhibition in Tallinn’s lighthouse had symbolic signifi-

And even as students, their technical skills exceeded those

cance. Estonian jewellery art is currently the lighthouse of

of many trained jewellery artists in the West.

Estonian art; its rays currently shine the most brightly and

As a group, Castle in the Air has exhibited mainly

the farthest out into the world. It is a light can be seen a

abroad – in Germany, Portugal, Spain, Denmark, Hungary

good distance off the coast, and on the other side of the

and China. The biggest exhibition in Estonia to this point

dividing waters. That very fact is significant. 

was from August to September in the lower lighthouse in Tallinn. While jewellery artists are often considered individualistic, Castle in the Air confirms the opposite. They are a loyal fellowship. “How have we managed to stay


together for 12 years, I don’t know, there must be some secret there. Maybe it’s because no one dominates the

EU, NATO Capital Tallinn Official language Estonian Currency Euro (EUR) Time zone EET (UTC+2) – Summer (DST) EEST (UTC+3) Area – 45 227 km 2 Population (2013) 1 286 540 Government Parliamentary republic President Toomas Hendrik Ilve Prime Minister Andrus Ansip GDP (PPP) Per capita (2012) 17 117 EUR Ethnic groups 69.0% Estonians, 31.0 % others Largest cities Tallinn 416 144 Estonia Tartu 101 169 Narva 65 886

others, no one wants to be a diva. The best of Castle in the Air and Estonia in general is characterized by high standards and meaningfulness. “You have to have be attuned to what you are about to undertake before you start work. It’s a slow and thorough process of getting on the right wavelength. It has to be just right, so that psychological intonation is there. Just like playing an instrument. If a string on an instrument is too slack, it will not resonate; if it is too taut, it breaks,” says Malk. The Western world, in its throes of consumerism and tendency to try to trump everything rapidly, easily and inexpensively, has forgotten the allure of perfection. Castle in the Air radiates that forgotten beauty and its light casts its glow increasingly further in the world. Castle in the Air is not alone. There is always some-


one beside it. The Estonian Academy of Arts jewellery and metal art department has produced a number of tal-


ented jewellery artists – Maria Valdma, Ketli Tiitsar, Kertu

Kaliningrad Region

Tuberg, Julia Maria Kunnap, Maarja Niinemagi, Andrus Rumm and others. They, too, are Kadri Malk’s students.


The rapid rise of Estonian jewellery art, especially in the past decade, is largely thanks to Malk.. Her students




The Gemworld Munich – a glimmer in autumn

The fourth edition ofthe Gemworld Munich has seen a small decrease in visitor numbers but ended with all in all satisfying sales for exhibitors. Regarding the uncertain economic environment and the up to now slow business in autumn, many of them put their hopes into the Munich show – and have not been disappointed.

Report by The Munich Sow Press Office


ith around 6.000 professional visitors, the

gets more and more interesting for international buyers.

Gemworld Munich has attracted about as

It could be heard from several sides, that clients from sur-

many visitors as last year. Given that there

rounding countries like France, Italy and Austria but also

was a talk of good business despite a considerably grown

some Asian buyers contributed to the good results. So the

exhibitor number they must have come to Munich with

much expected answer to the question if the Gemworld

concrete buying intensions. Vendors of precious stones

Munich has established as an international platform for

as well as jewellery manufacturers and suppliers of ac-

colored stones in Europe may turn outpositively: As the

cessories showed themselves satisfied by the show’s pro-

organizers communicated, some new exhibitors already

cess. While they spoke of reasonable activity on Friday,

announced an extension of their booths next year.

Saturday was for some a bit too calm. Sunday surprised

Pavilions as key attractions

by a strong rush and steady demand in halls B5 and B6.

The proven pavilion-concept, which was already ex-

More and more visitors from Europe discover

tended by an ICA pavilion last year, has grown again in

the innovative platform and benefit from the

2012: Especially for Brazilian exhibitors from Minas Gerais a

extensive offer

“Brazilian Pavilion” has been established. Besides first class

Especially exhibitors of precious stones presented a

cut stones the present companies have brought high qual-

high quality offer in Munich which is in this form seldom

ity raw material directly from the mines to Munich. In the

tobe found in Europe. Companies from Brazil, the US,

well-known “Gemworld Pavilion” Paul Wild OHG, Henn

Hong Kong, Japan, Thailand and other important regions

GmbH, the Atelier Tom Munsteiner as well as Cameo-Roth

as well as German exhibitors made sure that the show

and Amador presented exclusive grounds and valuable


on new clients and interesting contacts they could establish in Munich.

Europe’s young designers were guest at the Young Designers‘ Corner The Young Designers‘ Corner where eight finalists of the initially announced jewellery competition presented their works has also been well-frequented during the three days. After the award presentation on Friday the young designers from Greece, Italy and Germany showed their creations to the visitors. Mirjam Dreher who graduated from the FH Trier came off as the winner with an innovative and perfectly implemented jewellery concept. All young creatives presented attractive objects and drew many visitors to their showcases during the week-end. The organizers and participants have been highly satisfied and spoke up for a new edition next year. By implementing such activities, by its broad offer and the attractive ambiance the Gemworld Munich has stone art objects. One highlight was the special exhibition

underlined its claim to become a relevant European gem

“Faust and no end”. Mr. Roth and his father presented for

and jewellery trade fair in autumn. Supported by good

the first time the complete and impressive series of 14 cut

business and a pleasant atmosphere exhibitors and visi-

cameos showing key scenes of the “Faust” story – a real

tors have been enthusiastic about this innovative event. 

masterpiece of the Idar-Oberstein art of cutting.

Demand for jewellery and accessories on FEDERAL REPUBLIC OF GERMANY

reasonable level Vendors of jewellery and accessories have finished the Gemworld Munich 2012 in the context of their expecta-

EU, NATO Capital Berlin Official language German Currency Euro (EUR) Time zone CET (UTC+1) – Summer (DST) CEST (UTC+2) Area – 357 021 km 2 Population (2012) 81 305 856 Government Federal parliamentary constitutional republic President Joachim Gauck Chancellor Angela Merkel GDP (PPP) Per capita 28 873 EUR Ethnic groups 91.5% German Germany 8.5% others Largest cities Berlin 3471 756 Czech Republic Hamburg 1 786 448 Bavaria 1 353 186

tions and so had a positive end of this year’s autumn season. Many buyers from southern Germany as well as from Austria and Switzerland benefited from the show in order





to stock up for Christmas sales. Lots of exhibitors report

is facing severe changes in the future Angele Juodzeviciene interview with the Director of the Danish Jewellery Association Jens R. Moller

Tell us about the Danish Jewellers Association The Danish Jewellers Association was in its present form founded in 1972. In the early 1900 there was a kind of cooperation between jewellery companies that in the fifties later led to a more formalized cooperation. In 1958 a common secretary was established in a joint cooperation between retailer and supplier organizations and today we are still cooperating to facilitate activities that our members can benefit from. Our Danish Jewellers Association focus iscreating

Jewellery by AAGAARD

activities that can help our members selling their products. We are co-organizer of the largest jewellery and

We do not have the exact numbers of the articles pro-

watch fair in Scandinavia, The Copenhagen Jewellery and

duced and imported but an estimate would be that 25 %

Watch Show that this year takes place the 22nd to 25th of

is produced in Denmark and is 75 % imported.Jewellery

August, 2012. We have organized ajoint Danish pavilion at

is imported from many countries around the world and

the Inhorgenta Fair in Munich in February and plan to do

the most important being Thailand, Italy, Hong Kong,

the same at the IJL London fair in September.

Germany, Spain and Portugal. Is amber important to the Danish Jewellers?

Our Association is deeply involved in education of goldsmiths, silversmiths and designers. Furthermore we

As amber exists in its natural form in Den­ mark­

advise the government in legal aspects involving the

obviouslythis plays an important role to the Danish con-

Jewellery business such as topics like hallmarking and the

sumer but fashion changes has impacted the interest for

control of fineness.

amber Jewellery that at themoment seems to be at a fairly

How many jewellery manufacturers and trad-

low level. However the Danish Jewellery company House

ers exist in Denmark today? How many of them are

of Amber has great success in China and has opened nu-

members of the Danish Jewellers Association?

merous own retail outlets. This is a good example of seek-

Today we have 75 members in the Danish Jewellers

ing growth outside your home market. What is the present development status of the

Association and in total there are about 100 Danish sup-

Danish Jewellery market?

pliers. Besides our Association we have theDanish Retail Jeweller and Watchmaker Association that has around

Like the rest of Europe Denmark has experienced the

400 members.

financial crises and this has negatively impacted consumer

What is the split between imported and na-

behaviour. The consumers have been saving money in-

tional produced jewellery products e.g. how many

stead of spending money and especially sales in luxury

hallmark articles are imported and how many are

goods have declined dramatically.We have seen an in-


crease in shop-closing as well as a decrease in the num- 



The Danish Jewellery market


bers of suppliers due to a tuff competition environment.

well equipped to handle these changes. The major prob-

On the positive note we have also seen that Danish com-

lems will be to translate and understand the impact of

panies with a strong strategic focus on innovation end

changes in consumer behaviour towards issues such as

export grow their businesses likePandora.

sustainable Jewellery, environmental code of conduct, in-

How has increased prices of precious metals and

ternet trade etc.

gems effected the Danish jewellerymarket?

Which companies are the most important in shaping the Danish jewellery for the future?

The increase in prices of precious metal has been on the agenda for several years. This challenge was present

There are a lot of the Danish companies with excellent

before the financial crises and therefore our companies

performance even small companies with a new Danish

have had a long experience in dealing with this specific is-

design mind-set that will give them a huge potential on

sue. For the last ten years both retailers and suppliers have

the European market. The Danish market provides a broad

accustomed themselvesto rising prices for silver, gold and

portfolio of different sized companies such as Pandora

diamonds. This have allowed opportunities for changes in

and Georg Jensen but also midsize and smaller companies

ranges e.g. from 14 carat to 8 carat and from 8 carat to

who are about to gain foothold on the European market

silver Jewellery etc..The tendencies have been increasing

such as Ole Lynggaard Copenhagen, Aagaard and Kranz&

prices but without large fluctuations. Such a situation is

Ziegler.All of these companies are important for develop-

easier to handle than situations with hugeprices increase

ing the Danish and international markets. What do you consider to be the next step for the

and decrease fluctuations.

jewellery business in Denmark?

What is your opinion about Danish Jewellery market?

Danish Jewellery have a very good reputation through-

The Danish Jewellery marked is facing severe changes

out the world and the next step for the Danish Jewellery

in the future. However we have a long tradition for in-

industry will be to use this platform for further growth

novation and design and Danish companies aretherefore

and with focus on international expansion. 

KINGDOM OF DENMARK EU, NATO, Hallmarking Convention Capital Copenhagen Official language Danish Currency Danish krone (DKK), 1 EUR – 7.4605 DKK Time zone CET (UTC+1) – Summer (DST) CEST (UTC+2) Area 357 021 km 2 Population (2012) 5 580 413 Government Unitary parliamentary constitutional monarchy Monarch Margrethe II Prime Minister Helle Thorning-Schmidt GDP (PPP) Per capita 28 411 EUR Ethnic groups 87% Scandinavians Sweden 13% others Largest cities Denmark Copenhagen 1 935 746 Aarhus 252 213 Odense 158 678

Jewellery by KRANZ & ZIEGLER



ANNIVERSARY PRECIOUS 2013 Report by Asa Axelson, the organizer of Precious fair


recious was initiated in 1988. Our ambition was to create a forum where the watch and jewellery industry’s leading manufacturers, suppliers

and buyers representing Sweden and the Nordic region could meet representatives from the most exciting new and independent watch and jewellery stores. The initiative was well received and Precious is now our most important meeting place. For three intense days and evenings we gather the industry and move it forward. The overall aim of Precious is to increase interest in our handicraft, to make it more attractive and to increase business within the whole sector. At the same moment as Precious 2012 closed the doors, the countdown began for Precious 2013! We will of course use our positive experience and the constructive criticism we got last fall, but we’re not happy with just that. To us, it’s not just to create a copy of Precious 2012.


It’s about creating something even bigger, even better, even more inspiring and – most important – even better

EU, Hallmarking Convention Capital Stockholm Official language Swedish Currency Swedish krona (SEK); 1 EUR – 8.6339 SEK Time zone CET (UTC+1) CEST (UTC+2) Summer (DST) Area – 449 964 km 2 Population (2012) 9 540 065 Government Constitutional monarchy, Unitary parliamentary representative democracy Monarch King Carl XVI Gustaf Prime Minister Fredrik Reinfeldt GDP (PPP) Per capita (2012) 29 859 EUR Ethnic groups 80% Swedish Sweden 20 % others Largest cities Denmark Stockholm 1 253 309 Goteborg 515 252 Malmoe 261 548

business for all involved, exhibitors, industry representative or reseller. During 2012 Precious strengthened it’s position as our industry’s leading trade fair. The overall venture, which was launched in 2012 in order to develop Precious over the long term, actually surpassed our expectations already in the first year. Venue fully booked. Last year we had 150 exhibitors and 4696 visitors, representing 736 companies. Precious – Stockholm Nordic Watch & Jewellery Fair arrange Precious Talents, a department at the fair for new designers in the industry. Our aim with Precious Talents is to identify and highlight new talent in the jewellery business and to give them an opportunity to present themselves to a wider market. From the previous year´s nominees we pick a winner based on how well he or she has succeeded in the year since he/she was nominated. 

ANNIVERSARY PRECIOUS will be held at Stockholmsmässan 6–8 SEPTEMBER 2013


in Finland

Report by Antonio Altarriba Art’s promoter


will here briefly enlighten to Baltic Jewellery readers

much more liberal in the use of materials, however, both

Finnish schools for jewellery. The Finnish higher edu-

have ambitions and motivated staff and students.

cation system consists of two sectors, polytechnics

Today’s Lahti’s University of Applied sciences, Institute

and universities, each with its specific mission. Here I pre-

of Design and Fine Arts ( has a bachelor de-

sent three polytechnics, also called Universities of Applied

gree program for jewellery design, 240 credits, and with

Sciences, which naturally differ from universities. I name

the objective to prepare students to pursue a career in

them according to the city: Lahti, Imatra and Kuopio.

jewellery design, research and development, studio pro-

Today’s jewellery education in Finland is given mainly

duction and small entrepreneurship.

at Universities of Applied Sciences, which started to op-

Jewellery education in Imatra, Saimaa University

erate in the nineties. In Finnish language are called am-

of Applied sciences (, has its origins in

mattikorkeakoulu, in English polytechnics or University

Ylämaa. A village next to Lappeenranta, rich in spectro- 

of Applied Sciences. These institutions are formed as Ltd companies, own and run by local authorities, authorised by the government. There are 25 polytechnics in Finland. The degree studies give a higher education qualification and practical professional skills. They comprise core and professional studies, elective studies and a final project. All UAS (university applied sciences) degree studies include practical on-the-job learning (about six months). The student has to gain 240 credits to get the UAS degree, which takes about four years. The school of Lahti was founded in 1899; of course, the name and the aims of the institution were according to the needs and resources of that time. In 1971, the municipality of Lahti founded the Art Institute of Lahti, and, in the same year, the municipality bought the goldsmith school of Helsinki, institution founded in Helsinki in 1938. The goldsmith school was integrated in the new Art institute and Lahti became a remarkable city for Art and design education. Jewellery education had two lines: goldsmithing and silversmithing. The first one stressed on the skill of handling noble metals and the second one was



Jewellery education


The Kuopio Academy of design has a long tradition on craft education; over a hundred years. During the seventies ceramics, textile and metal education programmes were very successful and the school gained a very good reputation all over Finland training craftsman and women, who would live making crafts in their own studios as micro entrepreneurs. Kuopio Academy of Design ( has a design degree programme (240 credits/ 4 years) which includes a specialisation option on jewellery and precious metals. It provides the student with the abilities to design and manufacture jewellery and utility articles that are suitable for unique, small scale and industrial production. This programme takes new students every two years. Aalto’s University ( where you will find the highest education in design in Finland, also Lapland’s university has a visual programme. It is worth mentioning that there have been several dissertations on jewellery in lite quarries. The first workshop on cutting and polishing

both universities, next January 2013 “Women and Jewelry

spectrolite was in 1973. The municipality of Ylämaa aimed

– A Social Approach to Wearing and Possessing Jewellery”

to encourage and promote the use of spectrolite stone

by Petra Ahde-Deal in Aalto’s university. But either have

for designing jewellery and objects, however, the school

not a specific educational programme for jewellery.

moved in the eighties to Lappeenranta, where teaching

Finally, there are also some vocational schools where

premises suit better for developing skills and market in the

you can study jewellery and metal craft. Studies are quite

craft school. The stone line development had a positive

elementary. 

synergy around the city.

References: Ministry of Education and Polytechnics.

In the nineties with the new UAS, the craft school of Lappeenranta and the Imatra art school were integrated into the Saimaa University of Applied Sciences educational programme. In that time there were two lines, Fine Art in


Imatra and Stone and jewellery design in Lappeenranta. Jewellery lived exciting times; experimenting and innova-

EU, Hallmarking Convention Capital Helsinki Official language(s) Finnish, Swedish Currency Euro (EUR) Time zone EET (UTC+2) – Summer (DST) EEST (UTC+3) Area – 338 424 km2 Population (2012) 5 421 827 Government Parliamentary republic President Sauli Niinisto Prime Minister Jyrki Katainen GDP (PPP) Per capita 26 786 EUR Ethnic groups 93.4% Finn 6.6% others Finland Largest cities Russia Helsinki 596 233 Espoo 252 730 Tampere 215 315 Estonia

tive materials, large possibilities to internationalization often lecturers and workshops leaders from abroad. All this made possible that the six month practical on-the-job learning, which is compulsory to all UAS students, was carried out in Japan, Germany, Spain, Holland, Sweden etc gaining experience and new friends. The school staff managed to establish contacts all around the jewellery world. In 2009, the jewellery department moved from Lappeenranta to Imatra. Now jewellery education is one subject in Fine Art. During the first year students go through all subjects, after that, they specialise in one: photography, sculpturing, painting, graphic art, jewellery. After their studies the student gains the title of Bachelor degree on Visual Arts of the University of Applied Sciences (UAS degree). In Imatra now jewellery is emphasized as an art making creativity.


Watch Trade Fair 2012 was a success Angele Juodzeviciene interview with Stine Ingvoldstad Svendsen, The Organizing Committee of the Norwegian Jewelry and Watch Trade Fair

We would like to know your opinion about

through marketing of the Norwegian Jewelry and Watch

Norwegian Jewellery and watch industry.

Trade Fair. What is your opinion about the previous

The industry in Norway is quite small, with few pro-


ducers of jewellery. Foreign brands are popular among the customers. The main trend is the scandinavian modernist

Norwegian Jewelry and Watch Trade Fair 2012 was a



Traditionally its been difficult to get recognized as a

During the days of the exhibition, and the feedback

Norwegian jewellery designer. Few shops and long dis-

from our survey confirmed the need of a trade fair in the

tances have made it hard too distribute the jewellery.

Norwegian jewelry and watch industry. Both the exhibi-

One of the goals of the Norwegian Jewelery and

tors and the buyers were pleased with the 2012 trade fair.

Watch Trade Fair is to promote and create a channel for

How much exhibitors was in the show, from which countries?

designers. Here they have the possibility to display their collection and build a network within the industry. Some

The exhibition takes place in cooperation to Norway’s

of the tools we have used is giving them a good posi-

largest gift and interior fair ‘Gave og Interiør’. The fairs

tion within the hall as well as promoted them. Each year

are in the same location with the same date, and visitors

we will promote new designers and their collections

are free to visit both exhibitions. The gift and interior ex- 



Norwegian Jewelry and


Barak from Briza about color enhanced diamonds and Thomas Heyerdahl about marketing within the industry. The purchasers visited the fair to get inspiration of future trends and new products, to meet new suppliers and socialize. What do you see as the next steps for the jewellery business in Norway? Increased competition from lowcost countries makes it important too focus on quality and an individual buying experience. Design, correct materials and business profile will become more important as customers search for the genuine and authentic. It is with great pleasure that the Norwegian Jewelry and Watch Trade Fair will be arranged 22.–25. August 2013 in Lillestrøm, Oslo, Norway. What about expectation for the next fair? Due to the great feedback from our first year we are looking forward to Norwegian Jewelry and Watch Trade Fair 2013. We have listened to the feedback from both visitors and exhibitors and have taken it into consideration when planning the next fair. We estimate to have more hibition have between 300–400 stands while Norwegian

exhibitors both national and international as well as a larger

Jewelry and Watch Trade Fair had approximately 70

spectrum of visitors. We will touch on the current topics

high end jewelry and watch exhibitors. The exhibitors come

within the industry through our seminar programme. 

from mostly Norway , Denmark, Sweden, Italy and Poland.

 94% concluded with orders from customers.  91% of the exhibitors met their key customer base.  80% of the buyers did not visit other jewelry and


watch trade fairs in the Nordic countries.

Hallmarking Convention Capital Oslo Official language Norwegian Currency Norwegian krone (NOK); 1 EUR – 7.4350 NOK Time zone CET (UTC+1) – Summer (DST) CEST (UTC+2) Area 385 252 km 2 Population (2012) 5 033 675 Government Unitary parliamentary constitutional monarchy King King Harald V Prime Minister Jens Stoltenberg GDP (PPP) Per capita 39 526 EUR Ethnic groups Norway 86.2% Norwegians 13.8% others Largest cities Oslo 876 391 Bergen 257 752 Stavanger/Sandnes 189 828

Why, how they explain it? They didn’t know other fairs, or they didn’t want to go to the other fairs? The buyers are not interested in visiting similar fairs in other countries to avoid the traveling and expenses due to the demography of Norway. The goldsmith shops are used to suppliers visiting them with the collection. However they are pleased to finally have a trade fair in Norway where they can see an large collection of brands in one place.

 98% of the buyers would like to re-visit Norwegian Jewelry and Watch Trade Fair in 2013. What can you say about the educational program of the exhibition? Norwegian Jewelry and Watch Trade Fair had a seminar program, including talks by Nina Hald about pearls, Alvilde David-Andersen about Norwegian design, Amnon




Official Price for Raw Amber by

“Kaliningrad March Amber Combine” 2013 RUSSIAN AMBER. THE END OF 2012 No.

Regular amber Amber piece size

Price / 1kg


+4 faction

7,14 EUR


+4; –11.5

11,27 EUR


+11 faction

46,82 EUR


+14 faction

78,38 EUR


+16 faction

117,00 EUR


2,5 gr. – 5 gr.

221,75 EUR


4gr. – 25gr.

285,41 EUR


15gr. – 50gr.

430,94 EUR


50 gr. – 100 gr.

492,47 EUR


100 gr. – 200 gr.

831,07 EUR


200 gr. – 300 gr.

969,58 EUR


300 gr. – 500 gr.

1077,31 EUR


March 2013


Regular Amber Piece Size

Price / 1 kg – EUR


+5 faction



+6 faction



+8 faction



+11 faction



+14 faction



+16 faction



2,5 gr. – 5 gr.



4 gr. – 10 gr.



10 gr. – 20 gr.



20 gr. – 50 gr.



50 gr. – 100 gr.



100 gr. – 200 gr.



200 gr. – 300 gr.



300 gr. – 500 gr




The Worldwide Price for Raw Amber


The Worldwide Price for Raw Amber The end of 2012


If you have any questions concerning these prices, please, contact our office: Tel. / fax +370 5 212 08 23,


The Worldwide Price for Amber Silver 925 Jewellery The end of 2012

Amber Silver 925 Jewellery



2,3 EUR

Mashine made

1,7 EUR


25 01 2013

If you have any questions concerning these prices, please, contact our office: Tel. / fax +370 5 212 08 23,


Istanbul Jewelry Show

in March will be the premiere marketplace for conducting business and networking Report by Rotaforte Press Office


urkey’s number one jewellery show organised by

Great Support to Istanbul Jewelry Show

UBM Rotaforte, Istanbul Jewelry Show, will be

Istanbul Jewelry Show is supported by the Republic

held from 21–24 March 2013 in five halls at the

of Turkey Ministry of Economy, Istanbul Precious Minerals

Istanbul Fair Center (CNR Expo). The four-day event will

and Jewellery Exporters' Association (IMMIB), Small

occupy more than 40,000 square metres of exhibition

and Medium Enterprises Development Organisation

space and gather over 1,000 exhibitors from 25 countries

(KOSGEB), Jewellery Exporters’ Association (JTR), certified

with an extensive display of the latest products and trends

by the Union of International Fairs (UFI) and the Quality

exclusive for industry professionals.

Management System ISO-9001, ensuring that it repre-

As one of the major players in the world jewellery in-

sents an outstanding international trade event serving

dustry, Turkey is a leading manufacturing and export base

the fast growing domestic and international markets sur-

that offers abundant opportunities as it is located on the

rounding Turkey.

crossroads of three continents and provides a vital focal

Owned by UBM plc listed on the London Stock

point for neighbouring countries. In the past 25 years,

Exchange, UBM Asia operates in 19 market sectors

Turkish gold jewellery producers have been very success-

with headquarters in Hong Kong and subsidiary com-

ful and Turkey became the second biggest exporter in the

panies across Asia UBM China in Shanghai, Hangzhou,

world after Italy, the fifth largest importer and the third

Guangzhou and Beijing. We have over 240 products in-

biggest producer after Italy and India. The total value of

cluding trade fairs, conferences, trade publications, B2B/

exports was over 1.8 billion US dollars in 2012.

B2C portals and virtual event services. As Asia's leading exhibition organiser and the biggest commercial organ-

Turkish Design Jewelry

iser in China, India and Malaysia, we stage the leading

Turkish jewellery is both an art and a craft. Inspired by

events of their kind across the region. Our 200 events, 24

5,000 years of cultural and historical heritage in Anatolia

publications and 16 vertical portals serve over 1,000,000

and combined with the latest technology, outstanding

quality exhibitors, visitors, conference delegates, adver-

craftsmanship, immense variety, flexible production ca-

tisers and subscribers from all over the world with high

pacity, excellent finishing quality, competitive prices and

value face-to-face business-matching events, quality and

the shortest delivery time, Istanbul Jewelry Show is an

instant market news and industry trends, and round-the-

ideal place to source products in every category of price

clock online trading networks and sourcing platforms. We

and quality, from price point merchandise to high-end de-

have 1,100 staff in 21 major cities across Asia, stretching

sign jewellery.

from Japan to Turkey. 


WORLDWIDE REPORT At the Istanbul jewellery show


Shri Siddharth, Mr. Vipul Shahssier, Mr. Haresh Zaveri at IIJS Signature 2013 Inaugration

The IIJS SIGNATURE show at its optimum in the sixth edition

Report by GJEPC Press Office


he Gem and Jewellery Export Promotion Council

national and national retailers and manufacturers come

officially inaugurated its Sixth edition of Signature

together to build associations, transact business and forge

in Mumbai on February 22, 2013, at the Bombay

long-lasting relations that enable business transactions all

Convention and Exhibition Centre (NSE Complex),

year around. Hopefully we will see greater quantum of

Mumbai. Spread over 30,000 sq m with 1083 Booths, IIJS

business being transacted during this edition of Signature

Signature 2013 being held from Feb 22–25, 2013 is the


largest of the Signature event held thus far with participa-

The Signature show this year features 5 international

tion from over 550 exhibitors and over 7000 National and

pavilions, which include Thailand, Belgium, Turkey, Israel

International visitors.

and UAE. Given the event’s growing international recog-

The event was inaugurated by Chief Guest, Smt. Rita

nition this year’s show will feature the UAE pavilion for

Menon, IAS, Chairperson and Managing Director, India

the first time as the ME continues to emerge as one of the

Trade Promotion Organisation, Guests of Honour, Mr.

key markets for the Indian trade. The product offering has

Stephen Lussier, CEO, Forevermark Diamonds Pvt Ltd,

been segmented to include all aspects of jewellery and

London and Shri. Siddharth, Joint Secretary, Ministry of

will offer some of the most unique designs in gold, dia-

Commerce & Industry along with Chairman, GJEPC, Shri.

mond, and precious stones jewellery, the Signature Club

Vipul Shah, Vice Chairman, GJEPC Shri. Pankaj Parekh and

that will feature high end couture jewellery, besides loose

other senior officials from GJEPC and eminent members

diamonds and precious colored gemstones.

of the trade. The distinguished guests lit the lamp as a

The Gem & Jewellery Export Promotion Council is

mark of commencement, which was followed by a guided

an all – India apex body for Gem & Jewellery represent-

tour around the exhibition.

ing 5,500 members. Set up in 1966, it operates under

Speaking at the event, Mr. Vipul Shah, Chairman,

the supervision of the Ministry of Commerce & Industry, Government of India. 

GJEPC said, “Signature is a great platform where inter-


outlines comprehensive jewellery industry CSR doctrine, founded on defensive, proactive and disclosure principles Report by CIBJO Press Office “As businesspeople we behave ethically through the quality of our management of people and processes, as well as the way in which we impact upon society,” he stated. “And because we have the ability to make a difference to those around us – both negatively and positively – outside stakeholders take an interest in our activity. They may be consumers, but they also may be unions, the government, NGOs, the financial sector, community leaders, opinion makers and the mass media.” When we talk about Corporate Social Responsibility it is essential to qualify exactly to whom are responsible, Dr. Cavalieri said. He defined three main groups: “One, our business community, which includes all the executives and employees along the entire length of the chain of distribution, or as they say, from the mine through to the jewellery retailer; two, our consumers, who buy jewellery for its Gaetano Cavalieri

beauty, heritage and its ability to express human emotion,


and who rely upon us to protect its value and reputation; aetano Cavalieri, the president of CIBJO, has

and, three, our stakeholders, who include the millions of

outlined a comprehensive doctrine for Corporate

individuals living in the countries and regions around the

Social Responsibility in the greater jewellery

world in which are active, and for whom we represent a re-

industry. He was speaking on December 12 at the 3rd

source for sustainable economic and social development.”

International Gem and Jewellery Conference GIT 2012 in

The jewellery industry needs to be aware of its extraor-

Bangkok, Thailand, where he was the keynote speaker

dinary status and develop tools and systems of dealing

and delivered the opening address.

with whatever social challenges and ethical problems that

To be responsible corporate citizens in the modern

may arise, Dr. Cavalieri stated, noting that the Kimberley

jewellery business, three basic rules of practice must be

Process Certification Scheme is one these and is designed

followed, Dr. Cavalieri said:

to protect the chain of distribution. 

“ONE, to defend the industry from the various challenges that could threaten our reputation and integrity; TWO, function as a positive influence, serving as a means for sustainable economic and social development in the communities and countries in which we are active; and, THREE, to be fully transparent in the way we operate our businesses and about what we sell.”



Gaetano Cavalieri


Treated and synthetic diamonds:

can you identify them yourself?

Report by J. Van Royen, HRD Antwerp Introduction

well-equipped grading laboratory can make the distinc-

The value of a diamond is determined mainly by four

tion between natural and treated stones.

important characteristics, the so-called four Cs: Colour,

An additional complication is the appearance on the

Clarity, Carat and Cut. For many centuries, people have

market of synthetic (i.e. man made) diamonds. Again, in

tried to improve the (apparent) characteristics of their

general it is impossible to identify these stones, after pol-

stones. In most cases, this is completely legitimate and

ishing, without the use of sophisticated equipment.

generally accepted. In fact, the best example of this type

Yet, in some cases an experienced professional can

of enhancement is the cut: a good cut grade is by defini-

still identify treated, synthetic or at least.suspect. stones,

tion theresult of human craftsmanship.

without the use of extremely expensive or complicated

A number of different enhancement techniques are

equipment. In a series of short contributions we will illus-

accepted, but must be mentioned explicitly when a stone

trate some cases in which this is possible.

is offered for sale. The reason for this is the price difCoatings

ference between natural and treated diamonds. If two stones have exactly the same properties, but one of them

Coatings are the oldest examples of diamond treat-

is treated, the natural stone has a much larger value.

ments. They have been mentioned already many centuries

Historically, treatment techniques were primitive, and ex-

ago. The purpose of a coating is to change the (apparent)

perienced jewelers or diamantaires were able to tell the

colour of a diamond. Fancy colours can be obtained by ap-

difference by carefully examining the stones. In the last

plying a coloured substance, e.g. paint, on the surface of

decades, however, enhancement technology has become

the stone. Even the use of nail polish has been mentioned.

more and more sophisticated, and in many cases only a

In recent years some high tech coatings have reached the market, based on materials such as silicon dioxide (SiO2) or calcium fluoride (CaF2). In general these coatings can

Example of a damaged coating on the surface of a polished diamond

be identified by an experienced professional, equipped with a microscope, or even a loupe. Coatings are never perfect, and it is often possible to observe zones where the coating is missing or damaged. It should be mentioned that the example shown here is a badly damaged coating. Therefore it is easily recognized visually. Freshly applied coatings can be much more difficult to identify. It is advisable to clean diamonds with a mixture of pumice and sapphire powder. In this way, if there is a coating, it will be scratched, and therefore more easily visible. In the next contributions, different diamond treatments will be presented that can be identified without extremely expensive or complicated equipment. 



Our business is special. It is related to people’s emotions and stable value of gems

Report by Violeta Kisielienė G.G. (GIA) The head of gem testing laboratory elry market. Geologists-experts of the laboratory prepare seminars about gemstones; consult everyone, who is interested in general and interested in entities and individuals. Information is provided on the internet, by phone, and also we are getting more and more orders by mail. („Baltic Jewellery News“ note: Consultation is confidential, cost depends on the size of the stone. The Gem testing laboratory guarantees that the stone examined is indeed a real diamond, and contains a full

At the Gem testing laboratory, Vilnius, Lithuania

and detailed quality description, focusing on the 4 Cs:


Carat (weight), Color, Clarity and Cut. The Gem Testing or 19 years, gem testing laboratory (under PI

Laboratory is the only one in the Baltic states possessing

“Lietuvos Prabavimo rūmai”) has been testing

CIBJO-registered masterstouns collection for color, which

diamonds, sapphires, rubies, emeralds, and other

ensures the quality of services performed.) We give some statistics: in 2012, the laboratory issued

gemstones that are in the market of Lithuania. Next year,

quality certificated for almost 26 thousands of jewelry

the laboratory will be celebrating its 20 th anniversary.

items and 140 281 of gemstones. If we compared with

While talking about the topicality of the laboratory, it

the previous year, the growth was about 20 percent.

is necessary to note that in age of globalization, activity of the laboratory, qualifications of experts-gemologists, and

Compared with the old members of the European

conclusions are inseparably linked to the world’s jewelry

Union, our jewelry market is still not as resplendent and

industries. We are a part of the same wide chain, which

has very narrow choice. It is not surprising. It is only sur-

goes directly from the mines to the retail of jewelry piece.

prising that often we contend with extremely negligent

At this position, both objectives and methods appear.

attitude towards so called liability for our country’s market

Gemstones travel all over the world: they are dug up in

and customers.

one place, polished in another, later they are modified,

Gemstones on the counters do not even have a name!

and finally, the stone is mounted in jewelry. This action

Or the name is primitively inaccurate or deliberately more

can be performed in prestigious jewelry companies or pri-

attractive. The market is full of colored corundum; syn-

vate jeweler's workshop, and even places that have noth-

thetic and natural rubies filled with lead glass and pre-

ing in common with jewelry business.

sented to the buyer as a natural raw ruby. Another ex-

Our laboratory, which is a very small part of this huge

ample: colorless quartz stones are colored in green paints

industry, has set the same objectives, and by implementing

and presented as jadeite, blue ones – as lapis lazuli. In the

them according to its competence, contributes to the re-

Gem testing laboratory, each day experts see a lot of such

quirements, which are raised for all laboratories in this field.

perplexing examples.

In recent years, our highest aspiration is not only to

Since we are optimists, we would like to believe that

carry out the functions, which are determined by the

Lithuanian jewelry community, which is gradually evolving,

laws of Lithuania, but also to seek for universal education

will find the inner strength and will shift its socially irrespon-

and transparency of society, which is involved in the jew-

sible participants by implementing educational activities. 


Mr. Amber and his second Amber Museum – the most beautiful amber boutique in the world


Mr. Fehrn – a legend in amber business


Soren Fehrn is a person, who has won

by 1 May 2013.To the majority of the biggest producers I

a worldwide fame for amber. Thanks

was their most important buyer when they started their

to him the amber jewelry is experienc-

business. Some of them forgot this.

ing its golden age in Asian markets. Mr. Fehrn is the only

My father had a wholesale business of articles for jew-

one who has set up two Amber Museums: “Copenhagen

elry shops such as cutlery, candlesticks, silver plates, and

Amber Museum” in Denmark and “Bernsteinladen Amber

when golden articles started to be sold in the shops, he

Museum” in Taipei, Taiwan. The Museum in Denmark

also had these products. As the office was in my parents’

founded in 1994, and the in Taipei founded 2012. Mr.

flat, I was close to business from my early life. Invoices

Soren Fehrn kindly agreed to tell us his story. Mrs. Vilia

were written by hand and added mentally. I remember

Fehrn and Mr. Helmut Spangenberg also shared their im-

when we got the first calculator. It could only add or de-

pressions about the activity of Mr. Fehrn.

duct. Then the first electronic writing machine (IBM) came

You are known worldwide as Mr. Amber – leg-


end of amber business. Tell us more about yourself.

I have been trading for life. When I was 14 my pas-

Mr. Soren Fehrn: Most of the people in amber busi-

sion was bicycle racing, and therefore I learned everything

ness know me as I have been in this business for 50 years

about bicycle-construction, and I constructed, bought and sold bicycles. I have been interested in electronics all my life, and

Beauty of Amber (Mr. Amber's collection)

have made printed circuits for power amplifiers, which I sold together with all the parts enabling people to build an amplifier. It was natural that my choice of direction was electronics. Therefore in 1962 I started to study to be an electronic engineer. In the end of 1962 I was tired of it. I was on the wrong path. This was too boring. I decided to join Copenhagen Business School. The classes should start in August 1963. I was looking for a job and there were plenty, as at that time the business was booming. I could not really decide, so one day I asked my father, whether I could try to go and sell his merchandise in Copenhagen, as his company (mother&father) did not have clients there. I got 2 cases with samples, including some amber.

At that time I had only a scooter, Bella Zundapp. This was constructed and it had 1 baggage rack on each side, so I had 1 case on each side. I STILL REMEMBER MY WORST DAY AS A SALESMAN. I was showing all my samples to one jeweler. ALL I GOT



PERSONALITY Mr. Amber and his big Amber weight 8.8 kg

1 CHARM 12DKK – 1,60 EUR.

“Wytwornia Wyrobow Bursztynowych”, “Spojna”, which

By visiting the jewelry shops, I noticed that amber was

represented all the small companies, and “Art Region”. At

becoming more and more popular. At that time it domi-

that time “Coopexim-Cepelia” could export with different

nated in 3 companies. Henningsen in Thisted, Klarskov

exchange rates. It meant that if the price of the supplier

Andersen in same town, he was the supplier of my father,

did not match the client’s idea, the exchange rate could be

and Godtbergsen in Copenhagen. I started to look for

changed, so that the deal could be done.

producers in other countries and got contact to DDR (East

During my first visit to Poland I got to know Grzegorz

Germany). I got the agency from VEB “Ostsee-Scmuck”

Kurowski, who is still my best friend today. He was the

in 1963. In 1964 I got the agency from Poland, which

technical chief in the Polish Amber factory. In 1967 he es-

I visited first time that year. At that time there were 2

tablished his own company and started to produce mainly

exporters, namely “Coopexim-Cepelia” and “Prodimex”.

amber cabochons, necklaces and pendants. This co-oper-

“Coopexim-Cepelia” represented the only big factory

ation lasted until I sold “House of Amber” 2007.


As the political relation between Germany and Poland

produced for us.

at that time was bad, I took care of the export to Germany

In 1971 I started to sell the assortment from Kaliningrad


through Denmark. In 1964 I also started to produce am-

Amber Factory.

ber in Denmark. I had a small workshop which I estab-

In 1971 and onwards our export expanded and we

lished in the basement of my house. In 1965we opened

were selling worldwide. I had 2 sale-trips a year visiting the

the first workshop outside, but still only 1 worker, as we

customers. Both trips were round the world. One of them

only made amber pendants. In 1967 I bought a new house

included Australia, New Zealand, Fiji, Tonga and many of

which had space for both office and workshop, so we had

the Islands in the South Pacific, the other one started in

everything there. In 1967 we had the first salesman, in

Middle East. Both trips included: Hong Kong, Korea, Japan,

1969 the next, in 1970 one more until I had 3 salesmen

Singapore, Hawaii, America, Caribbean and London. At

in Denmark and1 in Norway and Sweden. I took care of

that time I had more than 200 travel days a year.

Germany myself. The business with Germany was very im-

In 1975 the space was again too small, so we bought

portant to us, as the merchandise I bought in Poland was

a new place once more. This time it was big. It consisted

with 60 days credit, and I sold with 14 days. This gave us

of 2 buildings. One of 440 m2 and one – 256 m2 with 128

cash flow for our expansion. In 1966 when I had finished

m2 basement. Here we stayed until 2000.

business school, I started to export to America and went

In the meantime we also started to include Taiwan as

there in 1966. In 1967 we started to export to Japan, but

by coincident I was looking for a supplier for more ef-

I did not visit Japan until 1971. It was fantastic that the

ficient machines and went there, because we had a big

Japanese were just as crazy as the Chinese are today.

order for rosaries to Bahrain. I bought the machinery, but

In 1971 we had too little space again, so we bought

under the negotiations, the supplier asked, what I should

premises close to my house. There we established our first

produce. I said – amber beads. He asked what amber it is. I

workshop of silver/gold-articles with amber. At that time

explained what it was and he said: "Send me a few kilos".

we had only 4 silver/goldsmiths and only finishing cast-

I did and this started the amber boom in Taiwan.

ings, which some other companies specialized in casting

I still remember that when I met my client this year in September and asked when our cooperation started, his wife answered that it was the year when they bought their first Mercedes, in 1989. Maybe this is why

Beauty of Amber (Mr. Amber's collection)


In 1999 we moved again. There were several reasons. The first thing that happened was the unification of east and west-Germany. My biggest supplier DDR, which delivered 40% of my products, suddenly stopped supplying 1990. We then had to increase our own production, but now we had to buy material in cash, add the labor-charge and sell on credit, in comparison with what it was before, when we had credit on the finished products. The next wave came when the communist system stopped in Poland. Here suddenly I got a lot of competitors instead of having a stable supplier. The polish suppliers were learning very fast and though our quality at that time was better, we had problems because of the different price. Poland experiences the same today with Lithuanian competitors. What to do then? I started to make my first retail


shop. At that time we had a lot of Korean, Japanese and American tourists in Denmark. So I started to buy finished goods for my shop, and do only little wholesale. We


opened in June 1994. In 1988 I met my Chinese (Taiwanese) wife. She bought amber from me. Until 1992 it was business relation only, but in 1992 things changed. We started to date and today we have been married for 23 years. Mrs. Vilia Fehrn: Mr. Fehrn opened up Chinese market and supported many Taiwanese companies who started manufacturing in China. China became one of the most important amber production centers and today, China is the most important market for amber. Mr.

Mr. Amber's collection : A piece or Art (Amber + Buffalo horn set in gold)

Fehrn is the one who made amber international. When he sold amber products to Duty Free shops worldwide, he supplied amber products to the whole world as well

only happy attendants.

.Ravfehrn Aps. known as "House of Amber" today – Mr.

Mrs. Vilia Fehrn: He is the most honest and right-

Fehrn's former company is the creator of many amber

ful person I have ever known and he has NO enemy in

markets throughout the world. Many important amber

business. Both his suppliers and buyers like to do busi-

markets could follow this company.

ness with him and many of them became his lifelong

Mr. Soren Fehrn: My wife opened The Danish Amber

close friends. People pay their respect by calling him "Mr.

house in Taiwan in 1995. In 1996 we opened the next

Amber". He always shares his knowledge and precious ex-

shop in Denmark, the next in 1997, one more in 2000 and

perience generously and provides his ideas, opinions and

the last in 2003. Our own workshop was only produc-

give advises free to anybody who appreciates. I can not be

ing special items for the shops, and most of the products

more proud of being Mrs. Fehrn! Helmut Spangenberg: Our families started to know

were bought. This was the reason we moved from our big house to a smaller one in 1999.

each other in 1965 and I got engaged in Amber business

We had the wish to try our concept outside Denmark,

in 1971. During these nearly 45 years we developed trust-

and wanted to buy the company owned by the Witzky

ful and fair business relation on one hand and a deep per-

family. The business of the family started in Kaliningrad

sonal friendship on each other.

and Gdansk in 1884, so this is the oldest existing amber

From the beginning, when I was a manager in our

company in the world.

company “Westfalica Bernstein-Schmuck”, we started as

In 2003 Mrs. Peters, who was the owner, and knew

customer of Soren’s company “ RavFehrn” and were best

my wish to take over the company, asked whether I still

partners till we closed Westfalica in 2007.In 1992 I bought

wanted to buy it and I said yes. So since 2004 we ran 2

“Ostsee-Schmuck” company with two partners and con-

shops in Germany. This was also the year my wife and I

tinued trading with “RavFehrn” / “House of Amber”.

started to go to China. We wanted to open retail shops

During this long time we always kept contact and met

there and registered Danish Amber House in China.

several times a year in his company, in our factory or at

In 2006 I felt that I did not want to work anymore and

different fairs in Germany, Lithuania and Poland and had

made a decision to sell my Danish company “House of

a lot of fun.

Amber”. I split the Danish and German shops and on 31 May 2007 I sold the Danish company and went on “retire-

SOREN FEHRN is a man,

ment”, only running 2 German shops. In 2010 I moved

who was fair and honest in every situation of our partnership. For me it is great honor and great pleasure to be one of his companions and I like to confirm his story concerning our time together. I SAY CONGRATULATIONS

from Denmark to Munich, where I now live. In winter when it is too cold in Munich, we live in Marbella, Spain. The summertime is spent in Denmark, where we meet family and friends. We still visit the fairs and are happy


that we are not participating in the game anymore but are






Diamond heist at Brussels Airport CRIMINALS

February 19, 2013


rmed robbers grabbed diamonds worth ap-

“We find it hard to understand how a robbery such as

proximately 38 million EUR as it was about

yesterday’s heist could take place,” said Caroline De Wolf,

to be loaded into the cargo hold of a plane

spokesperson for the Antwerp World Diamond Centre.

at the Brussels Airport Monday night. The theft oc-

“We are currently awaiting the results of the investigation

curred just before 10 p.m. Monday and involved a

but we do fear the damage for Antwerp, the world’s lead-

Helvetic Airways Fokker 11, which was about to op-

ing trade centre, is significant.”

erate a Swiss International Air Lines flight to Zurich.

“We choose to transport goods via airplane, precisely

Helvetic was performing the flight for Swiss under

because of the safe and controlled nature of this means of

a wet-lease arrangement. The flight was due to leave

transportation. We do hope additional security measures

Brussels at 20:05, but was subsequently cancelled. The

can be put in place in order to safeguard a fluent and safe

incident occurred after the aircraft’s passenger doors had

transport of diamonds.”

been closed. On board were 29 passengers and four crew

De Wolf says the Antwerp diamond community is

members, none of whom was injured. All the passengers

shocked by the “brutal heist” which included both rough

received on-the-spot care and assistance, and were re-

and polished stones. Antwerp is the world’s prime dia-

booked to their desired destinations.

mond trading hub; eight in 10 of all rough and half of all polished diamonds are traded in Antwerp.

“Helvetic Airways and SWISS will now be taking every possible action, in cooperation with the authorities and

De Wolf says to date, Antwerp has been the most highly

specialists in the field, to ensure that the incident is fully and

secured diamond centre in the entire, global industry, guar-

thoroughly investigated,” the airline said in a statement.

anteeing a safe business environment and safe transport of the vast stream of valuable goods to and from Antwerp. 

The robbery was “evidently aimed at valuables (diamonds amongst others) which had been due to be loaded into the aircraft’s cargo hold,” according to a statement

Source of information:

released by the Antwerp World Diamond Centre.

Police: Suspect in jewelry store robbery shot in head Jan. 4, 2013


Swedish jewelry store robbery that led to a

Erik Olsson, spokesman at Stockholm County police head-

shootout between police and four suspects

quarters. "Shots were exchanged between police and the

ended with one suspect being shot in the head


Friday, police said.

"We know that one of the robbers has been shot,"

The incident happened in the eastern town of

Albin Naverberg of the Sodertalje police told the

Sodertalje, about an hour south of Stockholm, the

Aftonbladet newspaper.

Swedish news agency TT reported.

The suspect was taken to a local hospital, but the ex-

Police received a report of an armed robbery at a jew-

tent of his injuries was unclear.

elry store and when they arrived at the scene, police en-

No one else was injured in the incident and the other three suspects fled the scene, police said. 

gaged in a shootout with the four suspects. "We were first told that three of them had gone into the store while a fourth stayed in the vehicle," said Sven-

Source of information:


March 2013 – August 2013 Bangkok Gems & Jewelry Fair Date: 26 February – 2 March, 2013

Bijoutiful 2013 Date: 05–08 April, 2013

CK Las Vegas Date: 31 May–03 June 2013

Asia Fashion Jewellery & Accessories Fair Date: 4–7 March, 2013

Jewelry Fair Korea Date: 18–21 April, 2013

UBINALE 2013 Date: 13–15 June, 2013

Oroarezzo Date: 13–16 April

Asia Fashion Jewellery & Accessories Fair Date: 20–23 Jun, 2013

Venue: Bangkok, Thailand

Venue: HKCEC, Hong Kong

Hong Kong International Jewellery Show Date: 5–9 March, 2013

Venue: HKCEC, Hong Kong

X Anniversary International Baltic Jewellery Show “Amber Trip” Date: 13–16 March, 2013 Venue: Vilnius, Lithuania

International Jewelry & Watch Show Abu Dhabi (JWS) Date: 14–18 March, 2013 Venue: Abu Dhabi, United Arab Emirates

Amberif, International Fair of Amber, Jewellery and Gemstones Date: 20–23, March, 2013

Venue: Exhibition Center Gdansk, Gdansk, Poland

Istanbul Jewelry Show March Date: 21–24 March, 2013

Venue: CNR Expo Center, Istanbul, Turkey

Aru-Almaty, 11 International Jewellery Fair Date: 28–31 March, 2013

Venue: Almaty, Kazakhstan

Mideast Watch & Jewellery Show 2013 Date: 02–06 April, 2013

Venue: Sharjah, United Arab Emirates

Venue: Nimes, France

Venue: Seoul, Korea

Venue: Arezzo, Italy Email:

11th International Gold & Jewelry Exhibition 2013 Date: 16–22 April, 2013 Vene: Mishref, Kuwait

BASELWORLD 2013 Date: 25 April – 2 May 2013 Venue: Basel, Switzerland

Chibidue – 2013 Date: 10–13 May, 2013 Venue: Milano, Italy

Jewellery Expo Ukraine Date: 16–19 May, 2013 Venue: Kiev, Ukraine

Vicenzaoro Spring Date: 18–22 May, 2013

Venue: Vicenza, Italy

IJK – International Jewellery Kobe 2013 Date: May 22–24, 2013 Venue: Tokyo, Japan

New Russian Style Date: 29 May–02 June 2013 Venue: Moscow, Russia

G.L.D.A. Las Vegas Gem & Jewelry Show Date: 27–30 May 2013 Venue: Las Vegas, USA


Venue: Las Vegas, USA

Venue: Krakow, Poland

Venue: HKCEC, Hong Kong

Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair - JUNE Date: 2–23 June, 2013

Venue: HKCEC, Hong Kong

Jovella 2013 Date: 02–03 July, 2013 Venue: Tel Aviv, Israel

Malaysia International Jewellery Fair 2013 Date: 12–15 July, 2013 Venue: Kuala Lumpur,, Malaysia

India International Jewellery Show Date: 8–12 August 2013 Venue: Mumbai, India

Norwegian Gold & Ur Date: 22–25 August, 2013

Venue: Lillestrøm Exhibition's, Norway

Japan Jewellery Fair (JJF) Date: 27–29 August 2013 Venue: Tokyo, Japan

AMBERMART Date: 29–31 August, 2013

Venue: Gdansk, Poland


Major Trade Fairs in

Fastest Way To The Baltic Sea Region! The international Jewellery magazine “Baltic Jewellery News” is looking for correspondents in the Baltic Sea Region. If you would like to enter into something newsworthy, don’t hesitate to contact us.

KERTU VELLERIND free-lancer jewelry-artist

Aušros vartų 15–5, LT-01129 Vilnius, Lithuania Tel. / fax +370 5 212 08 23. Mob. +370 610 11 302


We will always find space for you if you want to advertise with us

Stiklių 4, Vilnius, Lithuania HYPERLINK

Hobusepea 2, Tallinn 10133, ESTONIA Tel. +372 566 472 87

HANDMADE JEWELLERY Svajunas Udrys artist

Mob. +370 686 14551

CYRKONIA ul. Naramowicka 104, 61–619 Poznan, Poland Tel. +48 61 8216920 Fax +48 61 8202757

CONTEMPORARY LITHUANIAN JEWELLERY Laima Kėrienė and other artists creating exclusive work Silver, gold and precious stones combined into unique pieces Open Tuesday to Saturday 12 to 18

POWER & AMBER spolka cywika

80–838 Gdansk, Targ Rybny 6/4B, Poland Tel. 48 606594181


Business Address: ul. Jednosci, Narodu 27/85, 83–110 Tczew, Poland We will always find space for you if you want to advertise with us

Tel.: +48 58 5315851, +48608 032534

We will always find space for you if you want to advertise with us

This column of the "Baltic Jewellery News" magazine is for all those who are looking for something in the jewellery world or want to offer something to others. If you are looking for something but cannot find it, place your advertisement in this magazine and you will certainly get help. The creators of the magazine are sure of that as the "Baltic Jewellery News" reaches many people of the jewellery business world and not only in the Baltic Sea Region.


“The main idea of the magazine – to get jewellery business representatives from all over the world familiar with the status of this business in the Baltic Sea Region and to contribute to its development as much as possible. Our magazine presents the best in jewellery news, reviews and design trends, reflected objective information, main problems, achievements, important events about jewellery world”


 Ewa Rachon, the Manager of the International Fair Trade

of Amber, Jewellery and Gemstones Amberif and Ambermart, International Amber Fair, Gdansk, Poland

 Malgorzata Dopierala, technical Manager of the International Fair Trade of Amber, Jewellery and Gemstones Amberif and Ambermart, International Amber Fair, Gdansk, Poland


IT WAS NICE TO MEET YOU AGAIN!  Mariusz Gliwinski, company “Ambermoda”, Poland

 Bartolomej Hamerlak, company “Rodent”, Poland  Andzey Wira, company “Wira”, Poland

OUR FRIENDS  Wanda Gontarska, the Manager of the “Gold Silver Time" trade fair, Warsaw, Poland

 The team of “Sypniewski” company, Poland

 Zbigniew Kwiatkowski GJEPC coordinator for Poland and Ukraine and Giedrius Guntorius, the Manager of International Baltic Jewellery Show “Amber Trip", Vilnius, Lithuania

 Aneta Banasziuk, company “Aneta Banasziuk ATHRA”, Poland  Bilal Achmadov,

company ”Arpas”, Turkey

 Robert Bienko,

company ”Robis”, Poland


Congratulate on your Birthday! Company “Amberimages”, Lithuania

Nikolay Salna – 21 May

Helmut Spangenberg 10 March

Angele Juodzeviciene – 24 May

Virginijus Sarkus – 5 March

Company “Raynik”, Latvia


Company “Ostsee-Schmuck GmbH”, Germany

Aleksandras Afanasjevas – 19 March

Amber Jewellery Company “Amber Seaside”, Lithuania

Aydin Colakoglu 7 June

Company “Alexandra Gold”, Turkey

Alicja Kosciuk – 20 March

Egidijus Dunauskas – 13 June

Company “PHU Leksus s. c.“, Poland

Company “Pajurio krantas”, Lithuania

Rasit Hosgor – 22 March

Grzegorz Komuniewski – 10 June

Company “Arpas”, Turkey

Company “P.W.KOM Grzegorz Komuniewski”, Poland

Bartolomej Hamerlak – 25 March

Edvardas Zumbrickas – 24 June

Company “Rodent”, Poland

Company “E. Zumbricko IĮ”, Lithuania

Slavomir Wasilewski – 28 March

Algirdas Milius – 1 July

Company “Amber Kewa”, Poland

Jeweller , Lithuania

Stanislav Michnovic – 30 March

Galina Kovaleva – 7 July

Company “Saniston Baltic”, Lithuania

President of the Fund “Form”, Russia

Svajunas Udrys – 30 March

Soren Fehrn – 11 July

Jeweller, Lithuania

Mr. Amber, “House of Amber”, Denmark

Elvyras Cikanavicius – 30 March

Antonio Altarriba – 20 July

Company “Sidabrine kameja”, Lithuania

Arts Council, Finland

Dainius Milius – 2 April

Cemal Bulunmaz – 24 July

Company “D.MILIAUS UKI”, Lithuania

Giedrius Guntorius – 12 April

Editor-in-Chief of “Baltis Jewellery News” magazine, Lithuania

Company “Bulunmaz”, Turkey

Organizer of the International Baltic Jewellery Show “Amber Trip”, Lithuania

Edenas Mankauskas

Cengiz Ozdeniz – 16 April Company “Ital Gold”, Turkey

Lev Romanenko – 9 August

Rokas Budrikis – 24 April Amber Jeweller, Lithuania

Roman Lapuchin – 11 August

Arunas Kleismantas – 25 April

Knut Rudloff – 15 August

Nina Uspenskaya – 12 May

Maryte Dominaite – Gureviciene – 17 August

Company “Du safyrai”, Lithuania Jeweller, Kaliningrad, Russia

Marius Duda – 14 May Jeweller, Lithuania

Lina Butkute – 18 May

Company “Aukseda”, Lithuania Jeweler, Kalinigrad, Russia

Company “Aukso Centras”, Lithuania

Company “Nordschmuck GmbH”, Germany

Artist, art curator, Lithuania

Jonas Damzenas – 24 August Company “Damjon Amber”, Lithuania

Company “Miutto”, Lithuania

We Wishes You

Success in Business and Personal Life


XI International Baltic Jewellery Show

“AMBER TRIP” 12–15 March, 2014 APPLICATION FORM – CONTRACT Company name Address

(Street, city, country, post code)



Mob. Tel.


Company code

VAT code

Contact person

Stand N°

Product index (please, choose): amber jewellery, silver jewellery, gold jewellery, gemstones, semi – precious stones, equipment, others

Name of service

Price without VAT 1m² (EUR)

Desirable area in the show with a standard stand’s equipment (minimum 6 (six) sq.m.)


Obligatory record in the show’s catalogue


Registration fee


Sub exponent



Sum without VAT (EUR)

Sum: VAT 21% Total sum: Sum by words Data

UAB “AMBER TRIP” Aušros Vartų g. 15–5, Vilnius, LT-01129, Lithuania Tel. +370 5 2608495, Fax +370 5 2608497


(Position, name, last name, signature)


XI International

Baltic Jewellery Show

“Amber Trip” 12–15 March, 2014

Vilnius, Lithuania Tel. +370 5 2608495 Fax + 370 5 2608497

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