Designer stuDio
From dressing up and designing clothes for her Barbie dolls, Biji knew she wanted to make women feel beautiful from a young age What made you want to get into fashion design? As a young child I was always impressed by the selection of Barbies and clothes available in toy stores. I would collect scraps of fabrics, felt and anything else that was interesting. I loved sewing just about anything. Some years later, we were given a group assignment for Life Skills. We were to imagine life in the year 2000, when the Earth’s ozone layer would be totally depleted. We were tasked to design a fully functioning and self-sustainable school for that future environment. This was such an exciting concept to me that I promptly hijacked most of the tasks for myself. I think that this was the catalyst that made me realise I resonated with the idea of becoming a fashion designer. When did you start designing wedding gowns? After graduating with a diploma in fashion design at Leggats Academy of Design, I found work as a designer and seamstress and I also managed the sewing room for a small boutique. Afterwards I found employment as a junior designer, then head pattern-maker in a denim jeans factory. Within months I ended up working for a newly established garment label as co-designer with the owner and designing collections to be supplied to high-end boutiques. By the age of 21 I had become impatient with employment and it’s restrictions, and with my dad’s help I started my own label, designing small collections that were also sold to independent boutiques. This proved to be a huge challenge and not at all lucrative. At some point, probably aged 23, I was approached by a relatively established bridal designer to design and make a couple of her clients’ bridesmaids’ dresses. And just like that, I got sucked into the bridal industry. What do you love about wedding gown design? The challenge of taking a woman with all her complexities and designing a magnificent gown for her to wear on one of the most significant days of her life and making her feel like she is the most beautiful and important person on this planet. I want her to experience what it feels like to enter a room full of people, whether they’re family, friends or even strangers, who stop in mid-sentence and gasp in amazement and awe at just how magnificently radiant and beautiful she is. How would you describe your design style? I love power dressing. There will always be an element of drama in my work. Even the
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simplest of my designs will have something unique or unusual about the detailing or the cut. I like to believe that my sense of style is both bold and ultra-feminine at the same time. My design aesthetic is definitely more contemporary classic as opposed to traditional. What are brides mainly looking for at the moment in terms of design? Many women are beginning to embrace their uniqueness, which is quite empowering and inspiring. The access to so many images and beautiful ideas on the internet and on many social media sites makes finding the perfect wedding gown both easier and more overwhelming at the same time. Brides are more prepared than before and are searching for a dress that best defines them and also sets them apart from every other bride who has been married before them. This is where our creativity comes to life and the creative juices are stretched. The references she supplies us with are seeds that need to be nurtured and taken care of. It is with our vision and care that we can breathe life into her dream. What is the ultimate goal for every wedding gown you design, especially in terms of what it means to the bride? I love to design exquisite wedding gowns that make an elegant statement without saying a word. I want to create and design dresses that leave a lasting impression on the bride first, and then on her groom. The ultimate aim is to create her perfect dress for her. The perfect dress will make people notice the radiance of the woman before them before they begin to admire the detail of her gown. Her joyful and beautiful confidence that emerges from this vision of herself becomes tangible when she sees herself in the mirror, turns to me and says, "Biji, this has got to be the most beautiful wedding gown you have ever made!" A simple statement that speaks volumes. Have you had any experience working with bridal divas, and how do you handle it? Many women hold down really demanding and stressful jobs. They don’t have the time to waste with people who don’t ‘get them'. It is usually a clash in personalities that arises, especially when there are many people to please. Time and time again we notice a general pattern which begins to emerge with friends and family getting really excited about the wedding plans and offering their free and unsolicited advice. Some designers who fall prey to this occasional lashing out very often react with an attitude of arrogance, which in my opinion is massively disempowering and breaks down the lines of communication altogether. Are there any wedding gown trends that you’re currently enjoying? I am loving dresses that express an opulent use of luxurious fabrics such as Chantilly lace and silk chiffons that have beautiful movement and a life of their own. I also love interesting details and textures, low backs, sensual illusion necklines, hemlines, design lines, you name it. If it flatters the figure, I’m all over it. Contact +27 11 784 8018