DRESSCODE • 2011 • ENGLISH EDITION

DRESSCODE DRESSCODE BALL CULTURE MAGAZINE • Issue 01/2011 • www.ballguide.at

The correct

dress code for every ball

All dress codes of the ball season and the most beautiful accessories for your perfect moment in the spotlight PLUS: Austria’s most exclusive balls of 2011 at one glance

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contents 10

Opening of the season 10 Dressed to Dance!

The meaning and

history of dress codes 17 Dress code in practice What a ball organiser

expects from his guests 18 Tips for a ball night

Interview with KR Maximilian

Platzer and Bernd Querfeld 22 Dress codes at a glance Balls and their dress codes

24

24 Highlights of the

ball season 2011 30 Opening of the season

ballguide presentation at

the Spanish Riding School

Ladies’ dress codes 34 Ball gown All you need to know about

the most noble dress code of

the ball season

34

38 Long evening gown The most frequently worn

dress, suited to almost every

ball 42 Ladies’ gala uniform The official dress code

of the Austrian army also

applies to ladies

46 Cocktail dress The suitable outfit for all

school and dance school balls

With

generous support from:

4 Dresscode

50 Festive national costume Traditional costume balls

are in vogue – what you need

to watch out for 54 The ball gown as a

unique creation The high art of couture

Ladies’ accessories 60 Elements of attire Add the finishing touches

to your ball outfit with the

appropriate accessories

58

62 Glamour makeup The best makeup tips for

dancing the night away 64

Elegant hair styling Invaluable tips for a perfect ball “do” – from styling to hair accessories

66

Men’s dress codes 68 Tailcoat What you need to know about

the elegant dress code 72 Tuxedo What you need to look out

for when wearing a Tux 76 Gala uniform The official dress code

of the Austrian army

90

80 Dark suit Did you know that at balls

the dark suit is only worn

with a bow tie?

84 Festive national costumes The most important details

of men’s national suits

Men’s accessories 90 Elements of attire

From hat and scarf

to socks and shoes 92

Tie guide How to tie ties and bow ties and fold dress handkerchiefs correctly

Dresscode

Imprint

Editor: Mag. Stefan Grossek • Editor in chief: Irmie Schüch-Schamburek Publishing director: Bettina Rohrer • Translation: Angharad Gabriel ballguide model-photos: Franz Pflügl, Robert Osmark Models: Next Company, Vanity Fair/Jaqueline • Wiener Modemacher photos: Daniela Beranek Media owner: ballguide Verlagsgesellschaft mbH, Nussdorferstrasse 4a/114, 1090 Vienna Contact: info@ballguide.at • Web: www.ballguide.at • Production: nine:one:one Werbeagentur Erscheinungsort: Vienna • Our thanks to Braumüller Verlag for texts and images from the styling guides „dresscode man“ and „dresscode woman“• All information is supplied without liability Dresscode 5

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Dresscode

Editorial

Stefan Grossek Editor

The Magazine for Ball Culture I am delighted to present the new magazine Dresscode for the first time. With Dresscode we give you – in addition to our magazine ballguide – a comprehensive summary of the various dress codes & traditions associated with Austria’s ball season. In close collaboration with ball organisers and fashion experts, we present this first edition in time for the start of the ball season 2011.

Many renowned ball organisers are particularly keen to inform their guests about the right dress code for their events. In order to fulfil this wish we have compiled all dress codes of the ball season in this magazine. With the aid of numerous examples, editor in chief Irmie Schüch-Schamburek explains how simple it is to implement the correct dress code for every event. During the next weeks we will regularly update the magazine and add exciting new topics about everything to do with balls. Incidentally, you can find the dates and details of Austria’s most beautiful balls in the printed ballguide and on our website www.ballguide.at.

I wish you an entertaining and varied ball season of 2011!

Dresscode 5

dresscode editorial team

Irmie Schüch-Schamburek – Editor in chief Fashion journalist Irmie Schüch-Schamburek answers all important questions related to dress codes and shows ladies and gentlemen how to easily follow the required dress code.

She is also the author of numerous books on styling and fashion.

Betty Rohrer – Creative director The Viennese media professional has been devoted to the Austrian ball season for many years. Through her close contact with many ball organisers she is particularly au fait with the ball season. She is responsible for the creative concept of Dresscode and the management of the entire production.

Franz Pflügl – Photographer Under the motto “Photography is a love affair with life”, Upper-Austrian Franz Pflügl has worked successfully as a fashion and lifestyle photographer in Vienna for many years. For Dresscode he captured numerous models in the most beautiful outfits of the ball season.

Marianne Zahel – Designer The freelance designer Mag. Art. Marianne Zahle studied at the University for Applied Arts, Vienna in the class of Karl Lagerfeld. Fashion designs and illustrations, as well as the discovery of special cutting patterns are among her greatest passions.

Hariet Müller – Fashion drawings Hariet Müller, born in Stuttgart in 1988, studied Fashion at the Hochschule für Gestaltung in Pforzheim. Before that she qualified as a bespoke tailor. Hariet’s illustrations stand out thanks to their clear, reduced lines and her expressive use of water colour paints.

8 Dresscode

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How the world gets ready

Dressed

to dance! ”One must celebrate when one has the chance!” – a good resolution, as long as one is properly attired.

The art of dressing for the occasion has a long history.

In the olden days it was a social must to keep to the strict dress rules. Certain materials, patterns and even colours were reserved for certain classes of society – and any disregard of these rules was severely punished. Today, of course, things aren’t quite so strict, as long as it does not concern state uniforms. Nevertheless, there are dress codes and ignoring these inevitably leads to disconcertment, undervaluation and sometimes even expulsion.

Dress codes

12 D r e s s c o d e

The meaning of dress codes

p r o v i d e s e c u r i t y and c r e at e a m b i e n c e .

In all cultures there have always been certain attires for festive and ritual occasions. Their origins can be traced back to the Stone Age and were – just like fashion itself – always subject to change. In England in the mid 18th century the tailcoat developed from the military coat, which in turn had evolved – as did the morning suit – from a civic coat.

There are various theories about the genesis of the tuxedo. One of them implies that King Edward had commissioned its design for less formal dinner invitations, which explains the alternative name “dinner jacket”. The king’s American guests brought this trend to the ele-

Dress regulations are subject to specific cultural and social standards, which can be further subdivided into regional and national. Therefore it is necessary to differentiate between traditional and practised dress regulations and to inform oneself about any local subtleties.

The knowledge of dress codes is more important than ever, but not very wide spread – many ball organisers are in agreement about this. It is something that becomes an issue at almost every ball. „Particularly young ball guests are ill-informed“, says Harald Willenig from the Rudolfina Redoute.

„Better overdressed than underdressed“ Vivienne Westwood, British fashion designer

gant New York Country Club in Tuxedo Park, whence it got its American name “tuxedo”.

These new jackets soon reached England and were worn in smoking rooms, for instance in English clubs, to protect the dress jacket from the strong tobacco fumes (in German the tuxedo is known as a “smoking”). The Stresemann (morning coat) is named after the German Reich Foreign Minister Gustav Stresemann.

He had had enough of exchanging his suit for a morning suit everytime he went from his office to the Reichstag and thus devised this symbiosis of business and morning suit.

Dress codes are “dressing aids” and appear on every proper invitation – you just need to know how to decipher them. Furthermore, observing dress codes makes for a certain atmosphere that gives an event its special flair.

But also many a celebrity has problems with the right dress code, as Eveline Gaderer from the Concordia Ball knows only too well: „What do you do when a guest of honour arrives in a trouser suit or a short dress? We have all experienced these situations at some point“.

And the so-called VIPs have the responsibility of being these huge role models. If they don’t properly follow the dress code and are later depicted in all gazettes they unwittingly communicate wrong dress regulations. „Information is the vital point – it has to happen before hand and not just on the door“, ”, declares Susanne Schöner, organiser of the Lawyers’ Ball. Especially the many international guests have difficulties knowing and following the correct dress code for a night at a Viennese Ball.

D r e s s c o d e 13

A c o r r e c tly t r a n slat e d d r e s s c o d e i s a m att e r o f c Those who attend formal evening events for business reasons need to own at least one high quality evening suit and/or a tuxedo, or a cocktail and long evening dress respectively. Clever styling enables you to vary your look so that you can by all means wear the same dress more than once without it being noticed.

Bespoke clothing, says tailor Michael Teuschler, pays off if your figure, rank or professional position require it. Otherwise semi-couture and off-the-rack items, varying in quality and price, are available. As you should look your best at festive occasions it is important to wear top of the range and perfectly fitting gear. In principle, more or less the same rules apply to the workmanship and quality of evening suits or tuxedos as to business suits. It is also imperative that evening gowns be of good quality, as cheap gowns usually also look cheap.

Experts passionately argue over the exact dress code for occasion wear, for there is no other form of clothing that differentiates so much between “old-school” and “practised tradition”. At his wedding to crown princess Victoria of Sweden, Daniel Westling wore a tailcoat in the daytime, although this attire may normally only be worn after nightfall – a royal faux pas or perhaps a new dress code? There are also various opinions about the right colour of pocket handkerchiefs and whether these may be omitted generally. Rudolf Niedersüß, proprietor of the tradition-steeped gentlemen’s outfitter Knize, is one of the liberals in this matter. If you don’t want to appear in a historic costume at some point, you should be open to innovations.

As long as it suits the wearer’s personality, colourful combinations of cummerbund and bow tie when wearing a tuxedo are perfectly legitimate – even if it’s blue or pink. When it comes to ladies’ wear the right dress code is even more complicated. How outrageous is a style allowed to be, how low cut? The right choice of dress is a challenge in every case. Astonishingly enough, the rigid rules for occasion wear allow a great range of variants – albeit just for the details. For instance with a tuxedo you have the choice between an upward and a shawl collar, and either a cummerbund or a waistcoat.

14 D r e s s c o d e

The meaning of dress codes

c o u r t e s y T o th e h o s t With a tailcoat you can wear a shirt with either a stand-up collar or a wing collar. There are even more choices to be made when it comes to evening gowns. Almost endless décolleté variants, colours, materials, cuts and styles of evening dresses and gowns not only allow for individuality, but they can also be chosen to fit the body silhouette perfectly, says Austrian designer Birgit Indra.

Elegant stoles, boleros, maybe a pair of evening gloves, stylish jewellery and an evening bag complete the look. Stockings – which should always be worn, according to the classic dress code - are equally important, as are evening shoes with closed toes. For getting to the ball in cold weather, a floor-length cape is the most elegant solution.

The cuts of tuxedos and tailcoats are usually based on the English style, but the modern, Italian version is also allowed. However, for formal occasions any styling fantasies should be kept to a minimum, for it is only too easy for colourful extravaganzas and exotic patterns to look contrived and embarrassing, instead of fashionable and innovative.

Shoes should always be black, elegant and – except when worn with an evening suit – be made of patent leather. A white silk scarf, black top hat with a tailcoat or morning suit, a white dress handkerchief and – except if worn with an evening suit – white kid gloves guarantee a perfect appearance. The silk scarf, which can be worn with a tailcoat, tuxedo or morning suit, is taken off together with the coat or cape and is never worn with the actual evening wear. Black knee highs, ideally made of fine silk, go with all styles, simple socks, however, are an absolute no-go when it comes to evening wear.

„Knowing about dress codes is hugely significant. Especially young ball guests have gaps in their education“ Mag. Harald Willenig, Rudolfina Redoute

Spats, which are worn with cutaways, and tailcoats to provide protection from dirt and cold on the way to the ball and are handed in at the cloakroom, are a curiosity from bygone days. They are usually made of sturdy, white cotton.

Nowadays, however, they are hardly used, but it wouldn’t be a faux pas to wear them. Occasion wear, evening wear, formal, semi formal, cocktail dress – if the desired type of attire isn’t expressly stated on the invitation there is so much room for interpretation that, without consulting the host, blunder is almost unavoidable.

D r e s s c o d e 15

d r e ss c o d e s o n i n v itati o n s d o n ’ t a lway s s h e d l i g ht o n th e c o r r e ct ch o ic e o f c l othi n g

Lawyer’s Ball: Classic opening by debutantes

The sparse books of reference, which sometimes suggest a tailcoat or tuxedo for formal as well as semi formal events, are not very helpful. In other styling guides you may be told to wear a business or leisure suit. Another frequent paradox: while the desired dress code is exactly stated on the invitation, it is already clear beforehand that it will be ignored. Here

good advice is paramount. At private functions the host’s choice of attire can be used an orientation, otherwise one has to find a happy medium or conform to the requested dress code. If possible you should check with the organiser when you are in any doubt as to the dress regulations. Otherwise just find a happy medium or rely on your own intuition. l

„Elegance is not to strike one’s eye, but to linger in the memory“ GIORGIO ARMANI, Designer

The meaning of dress codes Interview

Dress codes – a balancing act?

The longstanding organiser of the Lawyer’s Ball, Mag. Susanne Schöner, talks about dress codes in practice with editor in chief Irmi Schüch-Schamburek.

What does the dress code actually say about the ball guest?

Schöner: Of course you can’t really evaluate that. If someone sticks to a predefined dress code it shows a certain respect for the host and other guests.

When someone doesn’t conform to the rules it can have several reasons: on the one hand he might not be aware of the correct dress code at all, on the other hand he may not have the necessary financial means to buy the right clothing or it may be conscious provocation – that also happens every now and again.

vation of dress code is already quite widely spread and is mostly accepted.

What is the difference between a short evening dress and a cocktail dress?

Schöner: As opposed to the cocktail dress, a short evening dress is a “dance dress” and always has a full, swinging skirt. Also it is usually a little more elaborate and luxurious than a cocktail dress.

What is the exact difference between simple evening dress and a full-blown ball gown?

„Those who keep to the given dress code show respect towards their host.“ MAG. SUSANNE SCHÖNER, Lawyer’s Ball

Are you allowed to wear the same ball gown for several years?

Schöner: most female ball guests can definitely wear the same dress for several years – especially as there is always the option of updating it once in a while with minor alterations.

In certain professional positions, however, it can be a strategic move to change your ball gown more frequently.

Fashion “excursions” like pink cummerbunds, bow ties or sandals (when worn by women) – faux pas or breath of fresh air?

Schöner: The colourful details of men’s wear are not very elegant – precisely because they are colourful – and are mostly inappropriate.

Wearing sandals with ball gowns as an inno-

Schöner: According to the old-school dress code, the main difference is that a simple evening dress shows less cleavage, while a ball dress will have a deep décolleté. But the boundaries between simple, long evening dresses and simple and full ball gowns are less fixed nowadays.

Why is keeping to the dress code important for you as a ball organiser?

Schöner: First and foremost balls should bring joy, the joy of dancing and communicating. The right dress code is a good basis for celebrating this festive mood and emphasising it with a beautiful location and festive appearance. l

D r e s s c o d e 17

A n e x p e r t dis c ussi o n ab o u t th e h o u r s b e f o r e a n d Interview

TIPS for a thrilling ball night DRESSCODE editor in chief Irmie Schüch-Schamburek talks to KR Maximilian K. Platzer, longstanding organiser of the Viennese Kaffeesieder Ball (Ball of café proprietors) and Berndt Querfeld, chairmain of the club of Viennese café proprietors.

How do you kick off an evening that will also include a visit to a ball?

Platzer: Balls usually don’t start until later in the evening – which gives you the possibility of appropriately kicking off the evening before hand. Here you need to distinguish bet-

nice and very popular way of starting the evening is to go for a meal before the ball. A ball will not usually offer a great range of culinary options. It is a quirky tradition at Viennese balls to primarily serve Frankfurters. As most ball guests don’t want to go back and forth in

„It is a quirky tradition at Viennese balls to primarily serve Frankfurters“ ween several groups of persons. While guests of honour will arrive at the ball a little earlier, some ball guests like to meet privately for a cocktail before heading to the ball together. A 18 D r e s s c o d e

a taxi, they are reliant on locations in close proximity to the ball. These are often booked out months in advance or can’t offer a suitable ambience. This often means that you arri-

F o t o : f r an z p f l ü g l

KR Maximilian K. Platzer, Ball of the Viennese Kaffeesieder

INTERVIEW a f t e r a c l a s s ic Vi e n n e s e ba l l

D r e s s c o d e 19

A f t e r t h e ball o n e l ik e s t o m e e t f o r a h e a r t y b r e ak ve later in the evening and miss the opening of the ball. For me personally, this would be of the question, as the opening is an essential feature of any ball.

Mr Querfeld, you have a special offer for those who wish to start the evening in style.

Querfeld: We offer a free limousine service that includes pick-up and transfer from Café Landtmann to all balls in the Hofburg, Konzerthaus, Musikverein and, of course, the highlight of the season, the Vienna Opera Ball. Our wintergarden is reserved for ball guests, incidentally. This makes for a par-

Platzer: There are also many other Viennese cafés that are very popular after balls. For instance the Café Schwarzenberg, Café Regina, Café Drechsler, the Gräfin am Naschmarkt or, after the Philharmonic Ball, the Café Imperial. In bygone days more shady cafés were also popular, such as the legendary “Spatz” in the Himmelpfortgasse. It had a certain charm then and was part of the “contrasting programme” of a night at the ball. In the meantime, however, this tradition has become less popular. Probably partly because balls often take place during the week and many guests have to work the next day.

„Some Viennese coffee houses offer many extra services for ball guests in the ball season.“ Bernd Querfeld, chairman of the Club of Viennese café proprietors

But going to a coffee house after a ball also has a long tradition in Vienna.

Querfeld: After the Kaffeesiederball (Ball of café proprietors), for instance, you traditionally go to the Café Landtmann – for many years now we have organised a special horsedrawn carriage shuttle for the transfer to the café. It’s a wonderful experience that also gives the ball itself a special touch.

What “after-ball-dishes” are particularly popular for rounding off a night at the ball?

Platzer: The classic option is a strong goulash soup with beer. That sorts out your stomach.

Alternatively, a Salonbeuscherl (a creamy ragout of veal’s lungs) is delicious – in any case, it must be something substantial.

A classic continental or Viennese breakfast with coffee, jam, rolls and a fried egg is more the exception than the rule.

Querfeld: Absolutely, although the goulash soup is definitely the number one for us.

We have tried several dishes – but Beuschel, Schnitzel, Schinkenfleckerl (traditional pasta bake with ham and cheese), ham & eggs or a classic breakfast are not really in demand. l

Breakfasting after a ball in Vienna Cafe Landtmann, 1010 Wien, T: (01) 241 000 • Cafe Regina, 1090 Wien, T: (01) 404 460 Gräfin vom Naschmarkt, 1060 Wien, T: (01) 586 33 89 • Cafe Schwarzenberg, 1010 Wien, T: (01) 512 89 98 Cafe Drechsler, 1060 Wien, T: (01) 581 20 44 • Cafe Imperial, 1010 Wien, T: (01) 501 100 20 D r e s s c o d e

F o t o : f r an z p f l ü g l

ticularly elegant ambience to go with glamorous ball gowns, tailcoats or tuxedos. Of course, part of the experience is a delicious ball menu, not too heavy, so the ladies aren’t literally “bursting at the seams”, but perfectly suitable as “proper fuel” for a long night at the ball.

INTERVIEW

ak f a s t at a Vi e n n e s e c o f f e e h o u s e

D r e s s c o d e 21

Dress codes at a glance

To avoid “dancing to a different tune” stylistically, certain dress codes and knowing how to decipher them are helpful – more to the point, they are essential!

Ball

Date

Kaiserball FR, 31. 12. 10

Hofbu

Blumenball FR, 14. 01. 11 Wiener

Un Ballo in Maschera FR, 14. 01. 11 Palais A ZuckerBäckerball FR, 14. 01. 11

Hofbu

WU Ball SA ,15. 01. 11

Hofbu

Ball der Alt-Schotten SA, 15. 01. 11 Palais A Ball der Wiener Philharmoniker

DO, 20. 01. 11 Wiener Mu

Ball der Offiziere FR, 21. 01. 11

Hofbu

Ball der Pharmacie SA, 22. 01. 11

Hofbu

Techniker-Cercle SA, 22. 01. 11 Wiener Mu TU Ball der Technischen Universität Wien

DO, 27. 01. 11

Hofbu

Wiener Ärzteball

SA, 29. 01. 11

Hofbu

Opernredoute Graz SA, 29. 01. 11 Grazer Op Jägerball MO, 31. 01. 11

Hofbu

BokuBall FR, 04. 02. 11

Hofbu

Oberlandlerball SA, 05. 02. 11

Cong

Hofburgball der Wiener Wirtschaft SA, 19. 02. 11

Hofbu

Ball der Wr. Kaffeesieder FR, 25. 02. 11

Hofbu

Wiener Opernball

DO, 03. 03. 11 Wiener St

BonbonBall FR, 04. 03. 11 Wiener Kon Juristenball SA, 05. 03. 11

Hofbu

Rudolfina Redoute (Maskenzwang bis Mitternacht) MO, 07. 03. 11

Hofbu

Elmayer-Kränzchen

Hofbu

DI, 08. 03. 11

Concordiaball FR, 17. 06. 11 Wiener Fête Imperiale

DO, 07. 07. 11 Spanische Hofr

Dress codes at a glance Ladies‘ dress code

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D r e s s c o d e 23

Highlights of the ball seas

The 20 most beautiful balls in Austria at a glance: from the Zuckerb채ckerball (con the Grazer Opernredoute and the Vienna Opera Ball and the elegant summer bal Let yourself be enchanted by the special flair of the Austrian ball culture.

son

nfectioner’s ball) to lls of Vienna.

110. Zuckerbäckerball The grand dance with sweet temptations opens the Viennese ball season on January 14th.

This year the confectioner’s ball night will take place at the Hofburg Vienna for the first time. www.wienerkonditoren.at

89. Wiener Blumenball True to the motto “Let flowers speak”, the Viennese municipal gardeners conjure up first signs of spring fever with 100.000 blooms in the Wiener Rathaus on January 14th. One of the most beautiful events in 2011. www.ballguide.at

Un Ballo in Maschera Also on January 14th, the Lions Club Wien Arte will be hosting a fanciful ball in aid of “Licht ins Dunkel”.

The Palais Auersperg provides a noble setting for a grande fête of masks. www.lions-arte.at

WU Ball 2011 Under the motto „Arabian Nights“, the students of Vienna’s University of Economics and Business open their youthful ball on January 15th, accompanied by oriental sounding waltz melodies. www.wuball.at

Ball der Wiener Philharmoniker On January 20th the Vienna Philharmonics host one of the ball season’s highlights. The elegant ambience of the Musikverein sets the scene for a ball night of the highest standard. www.wienerphilharmoniker.at 26 D r e s s c o d e

Highlights of the ball season

Ball der Offiziere 2011 The officers of the Austrian army take command over the Hofburg Vienna on January 21. Young people are the focus of this stylish and relaxed ball. www.ballderoffiziere.at

Techniker-Cercle The elite ball of industry and engineering is considered one of the best opportunities for networking in style and will offer a relaxed atmosphere in a particularly festive setting on January 22nd. www.techniker-cercle.at

TU Ball 2011 With its almost 200-year tradition, the academic night of the Technical University is one of the most traditional ball events of Vienna – January 27th at the Hofburg Vienna. www.tu-ball.at

61. Wiener Ärzteball The greats from the worlds of politics, economics and social security convene at the grand ball of the Austrian Medical Chamber. With 2.000 medics present, every emergency is catered for on January 29th at the Hofburg. www.aerzteball.at

Opernredoute Graz The glamorous ball at the Graz Opera House is considered Styria’s social high point of the year.

January 29th promises to be an evening with a starstudded cast, with Markus Schirmer, among others. www.opernredoute.com D r e s s c o d e 27

90. Jägerball In classic national costume, the band of the Green Cross sounds the hunting bugle for the 90th time on January 31st.

In addition to the Hofburg Vienna, the Spanish Riding School also becomes a “hunting ground”. www.verein-grueneskreuz.at

Bokuball 2011 With an eclectic dress code – from national costume to ball gown – and with a Salzburg theme, the University of Natural Resources and Life Sciences invites you to a youthful and exuberant ball at the Hofburg Vienna on February 4th. www.bokuball.at

Hofburg-Ball der Wiener Wirtschaft The Viennese Association of Commerce invites you to the Hofburg for a top-class get-together on February 19th. An evening where not only economics, but also entertainment is a top priority. www.hofburg-ball.at

54. Ball der Wiener Kaffeesieder On February 25th, under the motto “classicism meets modernity”, the Viennese café proprietors afford bourgeois ball tradition of the highest standard at the Hofburg Vienna.

A particularly elegant ball experience. www.kaffeesiederball.at

Wiener Opernball 2011 Following the “change of generations”, the first opera ball under new State Opera Director Dominique Meyer and “ball mother” Desirée Treichl-Stürgkh is anticipated with great excitement on March 3rd. www.wiener-staatsoper.at 28 D r e s s c o d e

Highlights of the ball season

Juristen-Ball 2011 To round off the Viennese carnival, the Association of Lawyers puts on a thrilling feast with much style and glamour at the Hofburg Vienna on March 5th.

Trend meets tradition at this elegant ball. www.juristenball.at

Rudolfina Redoute In the mysterious night of March 7th the ladies dictate the rhythm – for before midnight the female guests conceal their faces behind masks and enjoy the privilege of ladies’ choice. http://redoute.rudolfina.at

91. Elmayer-Kränzchen The famous dance school Elmayer provides the culmination of the classic Viennese ball season with its joyfully festive ball at the Hofburg Vienna on March 8th (Shrove Tuesday). www.elmayer.at/ek

114. Concordia Ball The Press Association Concordia invites you to a summer-night’s ball steeped in history at the Wiener Rathaus on June 17th. You can also dance and celebrate under the open sky in the beautiful arcade court. www.concordiaball.at

Fête Impériale On July 7th, with much effort and attention to detail, the Spanish Riding School is once again transformed into a ball room. The second imperial and modern summer ball is one of the absolute highlights of the season. www.feteimperiale.at D r e s s c o d e 29

Seasonopening The ballguide for the ball season of 2011 was presented on November 10 in the salons of the Spanish Riding School.

To kick-start the ball season of 2011, the Spanish Riding School opened its doors on November 10. ballguide editor Mag. Stefan Grossek presented the ballguide for the coming season in cooperation with the Wiener Kaffeesieder. Numerous ball organisers took the opportunity of giving a sneak preview of the coming ball events. A camera crew from the TV broadcaster ARTE travelled from Paris especially to film the evening for a documentary on the Viennese ball season.

The 90-minute documentary will be shown on ARTE as well as on 15 TV channels worldwide this March. l

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dress code

Ladies‘ Dress Codes The dress code for a ball allows ladies a lot of room for interpretation. However, some rules must be applied.

The ball gown Dress codes contain encrypted information – cracking this can be crucial to a successful ball appearance.

If the ladies’ dress code is not explicitly stated on the invitation, at least the men’s dress code will be given, which also provides information about what kind of dress is expected from the lady. For men “White tie” signifies tailcoats and for women full ball gowns, which differ from evening dresses in certain details.

Material & Colour An elegant occasion calls for exclusive materials. Shiny silks, such as satin or duchesse, crèpe marocain as an alternative, tulle or lace, adorned with pearls and glass beads provide the necessary elegance. Although black is often the colour of choice, other elegant hues – as long as they highlight the wearer’s complexion – are also suitable. The only exception is white, which is reserved for debutantes.

Hem length As with everything else, the first impression is paramount.

An unsuitable outfit will soon be spotted by passing couples and the wearer is labelled ignorant. The only acceptable length for full ball gowns is floor-length.

34 D r e s s c o d e

ball gown

Bodice Tight-fitting, figure-hugging corsages, partly enforced with whalebones or inlays, are the perfect partner for full, swinging skirts. Depending on the design the material is ruched or stretched and possibly embroidered. The décolleté should be suited to the wearer’s cleavage. The rule here is: less is often more – those who offer too much “insight” don’t convey much elegance! Not every woman can afford to go sleeveless.

Young ladies’ bare shoulders may thrill everyone, but often short sleeves or ruffles that at least cover the shoulders, are appropriate.

Silhouette Simple and slim silhouettes are inappropriate in ball gowns – full, bouffant or ruched makes for the correct, sweeping shape. If possible, slim waists should be emphasised. A petite stature can be elongated with the help of flattering cuts – lateral flounces are to be avoided in this case. Corsages combined with full skirts make for an appealing overall image.

Skirt The skirt can be attached to the bodice in a straight or pleated fashion, from the hips downwards full skirts, flounces, ruffles or insets ensure a certain width. Tulle petticoats give necessary support, but beware: too much can be inappropriate and may seem more reminiscent of a historic costume than an elegant ball gown.

Illustriation by Marianne Zahel D r e s s c o d e 35

ball gown

At high society events such as the Vienna Opera Ball, the full ball gown always has to be the first choice. Ladies like to appear in their favourite designer’s creations that were designed as unique pieces in the weeks approaching the event.

long evening dress Ignoring dress codes on a ball invitation means risking being refused entry – or at least disapproving frowns of fellow ball guests.

Although the term “black tie” refers to the man’s outfit, at a ball it also clearly means long evening dresses for the ladies. If a lady should still appear in a short cocktail dress, she must at least expect irritated looks. Venues like the Hofburg Vienna require adequate clothing – and rightly so!

Material & colour Evening materials are characterised by a high-class visual effect. Elegant silks or velvet are suitable in every case, also lace, sequins or embroidery signifies the appropriate exclusivity. Black or emerald green are this season’s favourites. If your complexion allows it, more intensive hues such as red, magenta or purple are also en vogue. Beware: red attracts attention!

Hem length The hem length determines the degree of elegance: an evening dress, whether “full” or “simple”, definitely calls for a floor-length hem.

If your partner is wearing a dark suit, an ankle-length hem is just about acceptable.

38 D r e s s c o d e

Long evening dress

Bodice Depending on the dress code („full“ or „simple“ evening dress), the bodice can be designed more or less elaborately. Bustierdresses should always be based on a corsage, to ensure a good fit. Details like sequins or embroidery can draw in the beholder – in this case, however, jewellery should be kept to a minimum.

Blouses or tops worn with long, simple skirts are no adequate alternative to an evening dress. Short sleeves, possibly made from a sheer material, can enhance shoulders and arms without making you feel too “covered up”.

Silhouette A long evening dress is characterised by its slender silhouette. The boundaries between the “full evening dress” and ball gown are vague. In this case a full, slightly flowing skirt and a somewhat more elaborate cut are absolutely allowed. Figure enhancing empire length variants are suited to dainty, petite ladies with a small bust. Ladies lacking a slim waist shouldn’t emphasise this area too much.

Skirt If you feel a slim cut is not enough, try some subtle Godet-pleats or bells under the hips for a touch of romance.

Those with wider hips can disguise them with a slight a-line.

Illustriation by Marianne Zahel D r e s s c o d e 39

Long evening dress

The long evening dress is acceptable at every ball. Elegant workmanship and exquisite materials make it the standard outfit of the ball season. For a classic night at the ball monochrome or embroidered materials should be the first choice.

Dress suit white for women For several years now female soldiers of the Austrian army have been permitted to wear a gala uniform – a perfect combination of modern elegance and military symbolism.

“The dress suit, white, for women“ is the female equivalent to the men’s gala uniform. Colour and design of the evening dress and spencer jacket are subject to strict regulations that guarantee an elegant appearance. You can wear a “dress suit white for women” when the dress code stipulates ball gowns or long evening dresses. You can see the noble elegance of this outfit for yourself at the Officers’ Ball at the Hofburg Vienna.

Material & colour The evening dress is a fixed component of the dress suit and is always made to measure. The colour is always black-blue and the cut is subtly elegant. The material – an elegant pure wool gabardine – flatters its wearer and excels with its particularly high quality finish.

Silhouette & skirt The cut of the evening dress is modest and very elegant. The bodice is slim, with a round neck and sleeveless. The swinging skirt is a little flared from the waist. Just like the ball gown and long evening dress: the hem must always be floor length.

42 D r e s s c o d e

GALA UNIFORM for ladies

Awards & decorations The way of wearing insignia and awards, including the order in which decorations are worn, is also subject to specific rules. They can only be attached to the spencer jacket.

Insignia are attached to the middle of the left sleeve, troupe emblems for members of the air force are placed on the right breast. Wearing sleeve badges is only permitted to officers of the military pasturing service and music officers.

Spencer jacket & Accessoires Like the dress, the spencer jacket is also made to measure, of cream coloured worsted material, and reaches to the waist. Skin-coloured tights and black pumps are obligatory. The evening bag is also black and can be made of patent leather.

White gloves make for additional elegance and a proper ball cannot be imagined without them.

Illustriation by Hariet M端ller D r e s s c o d e 43

GALA UNIFORM for ladies

The gala uniform for female soldiers – also known as „dress suite, white, for women“ – is worn if the dress code stipulates ball gowns or long evening dresses.

The best place to observe the elegance of this uniform is the Officers’ Ball at the Hofburg Vienna.

the Cocktail dress An invitation to a cocktail party calls for a cocktail dress.

However, it is only rarely an acceptable alternative to the long evening dress.

Unlike the elegant day dress, the cocktail dress is defined by evening materials and details, as it is – just like the eponymous drink – meant for use after 5 pm. The so-called “little black dress” is acceptable as a substitute, but should be jazzed up with evening jewellery.

Sleeves Sleeveless cocktail dresses are especially elegant but dresses with short, puffed or 3/4 sleeves are also appropriate. If you don’t wish to reveal your upper arms to the public, why not try a happy medium of sleeves made from sheer or lacy materials?

Hem length A cocktail dress can be of any length from mini and knee-length to mid-calf – but no longer. The correct hem length is largely dependant on the wearer’s age and the occasion. Beware: even if mini is “in”, don’t forget: the more elegant the evening, the longer the dress. The so-called “Chanel length” (just below the knee) is always appropriate, flatters any silhouette and is currently totally en vogue.

46 D r e s s c o d e

cocktail dress

Bodice A cocktail dress can also be based on a corsage, if it is strapless.

The neckline variants range from high- and boat-necked to plunging necklines. The neckline is ideally suited to details like sequins or embroidery and can be a beautiful eye catcher.

Silhouette From slim and a-line to petticoat-style cuts – everything is possible.

Depending on fashion and figure, the designs can be playful and the silhouette varied.

Skirt The pencil skirt is only an option up to a certain dress size – for some figures a slightly flared skirt is more advantageous, as there is less emphasis on the hips. Some cuts call for a waistline that can be covered with a belt. A cocktail dress is never a two-piece.

Material & colour Elegant materials, as they are used for evening dresses, provide the necessary evening touch. Sequins are also allowed. As to colour, there are no limits: muted colours are more respectable, bold colours are naturally more conspicuous

Illustriation by Marianne Zahel D r e s s c o d e 47

COCKTAIL dress

Cocktail dresses are ideal for “youthful” balls. This outfit is considered the most relaxed dress code of the ball season and can be worn at the Blumenball or the Zuckerbäcker Ball. Beware: at most balls at the Hofburg the cocktail dress is not acceptable!

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festive national costume National costumes are en vogue: Jägerball (Hunter’s Ball) and Trachtenpärchenball require festive dirndls of silk and velvet. Everyday dirndls are no suitable alternative.

Being dressed for the occasion doesn’t just please all those present, but also lifts the wearer’s spirits. Furthermore, you communicate a certain respect of your host’s wishes. Original national costumes are always suitable, for instance at the Jägerball. However, only the Trachtenpärchenball adheres to the motto „the wackier the better“!

Material & coulor Festive national costumes must be made of silk and velvet. The large variety of costumes results from the variety of materials, like taffeta, jacquard, brocade, striped or checked, silk or mixed fibres (wool-silk), combined with high-quality embroidery and elegant details. The colours are only predefined for original national costumes, modern variants are possible, as long as they are festive and suited to evening wear.

Hem length Even if a dirndl isn’t necessarily subject to fashion, the hem length does vary according to current trends. While ankle length was popular in the last years, knee length came back on the scene in 2010 – however, this is just permitted at very few balls, such as the Trachtenpärchenball. The rule of thumb applies to national costumes too: the longer the dress, the more elegant it is – floor length, or at least ankle length are best for exclusive occasions.

50 D r e s s c o d e

festive national costume

Bodice Ruffles, embroidery and braids can transform a simple dirndl into a rare jewel. Lacing through ornate hooks or elegant buttons adds a festive touch. The bodice must be tight-fitting, whalebones afford the necessary support.

Silhouette A dirndl is considered one of the most feminine attires.

Ample necklines, tucked-in waists and swaying smocks are typical and unavoidable. The shoulders can be further emphasised by puffed dirndl blouse sleeves. Puffed sleeves and 3/4 mutton sleeves are equally popular. If the sleeves are made of the same material as the dirndl, the correct term is „Bürgerkleid“.

Skirt The skirt is usually gathered at the waist with hand sewn pleats. Enforced seams afford the necessary support; the so-called “Knittelblech” (broad inward trimming, often in a contrasting colour) further reinforces the skirt. Silk aprons are part of every festive national costume.

Illustriation von Marianne Zahel D r e s s c o d e 51

festive national costume

Festive national costumes are always original costumes the colours of whichare predefined by their origin.

Fashion costumes are not included in this dress code. Balls where national costume is obligatory, such as the J채ger- or Oberlandlerball, are particularly attractive.

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T h e u n iqu e ball d r e ss – b e s p Ball dresses are available in a large variety of colours and shapes, but they all have one thing in common: they are always floor length and should transform their wearer into the belle of the ball.

In the old days, ball dresses were a prerogative of aristocratic women. They were always very elaborately made by hand and only meant for special occasions such as balls, weddings and other festivities. They were partly made of silk, precious and liberally embroidered – the ball dress was the showpiece of every woman’s wardrobe.

Ball dresses usually have a tight-fitting bodice and flare out either from the waist or the hips. Hoop skirts are often worn under so-called full ball dresses, or many layers of material are incorporated in the design to achieve a small waist and voluminous skirt.

A ball dress gets its extravagant and individual touch from the use of high quality materials such as silk satin, satin taffeta, silk chiffon, velvet, lace or embroidered material and from attention to such details as lacing, ruches, trains and draped material.

The variety of ball dresses is bigger than ever these days. You can not only chose between a multitude of different shapes and models, but you also have to decide whether to buy a dress “off the peg” or have a unique ball dress made to measure. The difference between the two is perfectly clear.

A ball dress from a boutique or fashion house is produced in certain predefined sizes and thousands of dresses of the same design go on sale. If you are unlucky, you might come face to face with another woman wearing the same dress at the ball. Shopbought dresses also don’t usually fit perfectly from the first moment on, often necessitating alterations to the bodice or the width and length of the skirt.

Usually the wearer has to “pluck it into shape” in order to keep the dress in place. This is guaranteed not to happen with a bespoke ball dress, as it is made especially to suit the measurements and individual wishes of the wearer.

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p o k e m o d e l v e r s u s r e ad y-t o - w e a r d r e s s The incorporated reinforcement of the corsage, the so called whale bones, gives the torso a perfect shape and the corsage offers additional support. Nothing can slip away; tugging at your neckline becomes a thing of the past – a crucial criterion that distinguishes a dress that fits perfectly. The first consultation with the tailor of a bespoke ball dress will also include an image consultation, as the right choice of silhouette, colour and material can considerably affect the wearer’s entire appearance. Sophisticated materials in a unique colour add a touch of glamour to the wearer and give her the feeling of owning something very special.

"The perfect ball gown has to fit like a glove, emphasise one’s advantages and be flattering to the wearer’s figure."

Patrizia Fürnkranz-Markus, guild master of the professional branch of clothing trade The ball outfit is further enhanced by a suitable hairdo, professional makeup and the right accessories.

The Wiener Modisten can offer professional support. They will help you chose hair accessories that can be made to match your dress. The right evening bag and shoes complete the image. One thing is paramount, whether you decide to buy a dress off the rack or made to measure: time.

Making a dress to measure involves preliminary preparations of at least a month prior to the ball.

But you also need to allow for extra time when buying a ready made dress – after all, you do want to be the belle of the ball! l

Click here to find out more about the professional branch of clothing trade of Vienna. www.wienermodemacher.at

D r e s s c o d e 55

Die ultimativen Styling Guides!

Für jeden Anlass und jede Figur: Mit Hunderten Fotos, detaillierten Anleitungen und Tipps aus der Praxis.

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The fashion illustrations for Dresscode Mag. art. Marianne Zahel studied at the University of Applied Arts, Vienna, when Karl Lagerfeld was professor of the fashion class. Her final year project, which was showered with distincions and awards, dealt with special designs based on archetypes of clothing.

Until today she is dedicated to her speciality – desigining extraordinary patterns – and passes on her knowledge to interested fellow experts at international congresses.

„Fashion designs and illustrations, as well as devising special patterns are my passion“ Mag. Marianne Zahel, Fashion designer As a freelance designer she has created collections for established fashion houses. For the Modeforum Wien she travelled to prêt à porter exhibitions in Paris and Milan and to international textile trade fairs, to keep the industry back home up to date with current trends.

She has been teaching “fashion and styles” at the the Institute of Artistic Teacher Training at the Academy of Fine Arts in Vienna for many years now, enabling her to pass on her vast experience in the fashion industry to her students. She also gives fashion lectures and workshops in the whole of Austria. Illustrations and fashion designs for magazines and books are Mag. Zahel’s biggest passion and perfectly complement her widespread activities. l

D r e s s c o d e 57

Lad i e s ‘

Accessories

Beautiful eye catcher Not until accessories like evening bags, shoes, jewellery and makeup are perfectly coordinated does a ball gown really come into its own.

El e m e n ts o f atti r e – acc e s s o r i e s add th e f i n i s hi n g

The Bag An evening bag should be “small but mighty” and naturally match the ball or evening dress. Sequins, embroidery, satin or metal – as long as it glitters, you’re on the right track. Shapes range from pouches over small strappy bags to the classic clutch – the latter being particularly trendy, but, as it has no shoulder strap, always has to be carried in the hand.

Shoes An elegant heel is more or less a “must“ – ballerinas are not usually worn and only allowed if they are very “eveningy”. According to the correct dress code – but in marked contrast to popular belief – a ball shoe must be closed at the toes but can be open at the heel. In practice, however, more comfortable and airy sandals are very popular. Patent leather, satin or rhinestones are to be given preference, straps give the necessary support. Those who wish to be prepared for all eventualities will chose professional dancing shoes.

Gloves Evening gloves are most often made of satin or lace. An off-the-shoulder ball gown calls for long, shiny ball gloves, etiher in black or some other colour matching but contrasting the dress. They should be tight fitting, which is no longer a problem in this day and age of lycra, and must at least reach up to the elbows.

60 D r e s s c o d e

Ladies‘ Accessories t o u ch e s t o y o u r ba l l o u t f it

Covering up Most balls take place in the winter. To avoid freezing on the way there, or at open air events in the summer, a warm wrap is indispensible. However, stoles are also great as stylish accessories or for hiding little flaws of the cleavage or upper arms. They can be made of evening materials or fur and can be elaborately decorated.

F o t o : c a r t i e r , o t t o , f e r r e , a r m an i , f e r r aga m o , u n i v e r s a l

Jewellery Adorning jewels on the neck, ears, arms and fingers are always beautiful and noble eye catchers. It should either be genuine evening jewellery or particularly luxuriant fashion jewellery. Old costume jewellery sets itself apart with special designs that would simply be too expensive if made from real gems. It doesn’t matter whether you wear diamonds, emeralds, semi-precious gems or Swarovski crystals – as long as it sparkles and suits the wearer!

The Watch Elegant attention to detail becomes apparent when it comes to the watch.

According to the strict dress code rules only jewel-watches are allowed, preferably those with hidden faces that can’t be discerned as timepieces. These small, delicate, elegant watches should always have an evening look about them and be adorned with stones, whether genuine or fake makes no difference here. Sporty and everyday watches are not appropriate – better to go without. When wearing gloves, the watch is to be worn over these.

D r e s s c o d e 61

G lam o r o us M ak e U p s u bt ly e m p ha s i s e s b e a u t y a n d p

The complexion

Special Effects Beauty products with special effects add a festive elegant touch. Iridescent powders with glittery particles achieve a subtle, shimmering complexion or conjure up attractive highlights on shoulders, cleavage or arms. An evening nail polish showcases hands. A scent suited to the lady’s style and personality adds the finishing touches to the whole “composition”.

The lips Even if you love going „without“ during the day, you should never pass on lipstick when getting ready for a ball. Whether you go for a matt or glossy finish, natural hues, warm, sensuous tones or – absolutely en voge this winter – flame-red lips is irrelevant. The important thing is to keep touching up your lips on site, to ensure a perfect look right into the early hours of the morning.

62 D r e s s c o d e

F o t o : g u e r l a i n , s h i s e i d o , k an e b o , c h an e l , r u b i n s t e i n , n i na r i c c i , l an c o m e , y v e s s a i n t l a u r e n t, c l a r i n s

In order to appear radiant into the small hours, some important beauty accomplices are needed. Start with a suitable, possibly matting face cream, a concealer to mask little flaws or rings under the eyes, a foundation for an even complexion and a finishing powder. Also essential: powder for on-site touch-up-jobs.

Glamorous make up e r s o n a l it y

The eyes A glittering occasion calls for glamorous eye makeup. Although, unless you have a very extravagant personality, you should focus on either the eyes or the lips when it comes to colour accents.

Really big this season: soft iridescent eye shadows with a subtle metallic shimmer, well defined eye brows and an eye-line, which can be either subtle or decorative. Bold use of mascara frames gleaming eyes.

D r e s s c o d e 63

El e ga n t h ai r st y li n g – a w e l l e x e c u t e d hai r d o i s th

Styling A perfect hairdo begins with a perfect haircut – preferably “fresh from the salon”. The proper care products give your hair a seductive shimmer, conditioners guarantee added buoyancy and volume. Special finishing products, like gel, mousse or hairspray, which is vital for fixing up-dos, ensure that the hair stays in shape for a long while.

If you don’t want to go to the expense of a visit to the salon, you can do it yourself too. Hair straighteners make for super straight hair and/or give extra shine. Curling tongs transform lank locks into a mop of curly hair, brushes and combs tame the mane until the hairdo has reached is desired shape. Tip: it is best to try out your ball do beforehand and to put it to the test, to ensure it is doable, durable and gives you the right look.

Hair accessories An adorned head calls for confidence and delight in styling. After being passé for years, fascinators and hair accessories adorned with feathers, rhinestones, tulle or sequins can be spotted more frequently these days.

Hair combs or long ribbons, bound at the back of the neck, keep them in place while dancing. Decorated hair bands are also a way of adding glamour to one’s hair.

64 D r e s s c o d e

F o t o : L' O r é a l , w e l l a , b e i e r s d o r f, p h i l i p s , r e m i ng t o n , f i l z

The paraphernalia

Elegant hair styling

th e c r o w n i n g g l o r y o f a n y p e r f e ct " ba l l- l o o k �

D r e s s c o d e 65

Men’s

dress code

BEST DRESSED When it comes to formal attire, men have it pretty easy: in most cases the invitation will give clear instructions as to what outfit the host will be expecting. And as long as you can decipher these codes correctly, you won’t be spoilt for choice.

The tailcoat When it comes to elegance nothing comes close to the tailcoat – the most elegant attire from top to toe for an exclusive night at the ball.

At events like the Vienna Opera Ball or the Vienna Philharmonic Ball the tailcoat is obligatory (although a tuxedo would also be permitted at the latter). If an invitation stipulates “white tie”, this definitely means a tailcoat. To ignore this dress code would not only be extremely inappropriate, but at balls like the Vienna Opera Ball you would quite simply be refused entry.

The details Shirt, waistcoat and tie should be coordinated and are referred to as a “set”.

Typically the shirt has no fixed buttons, at least not in the upper part, but is fitted with decorative buttons that are pinned into the designated buttonholes. Wearing a tailcoat with a cummerbund rather than a waistcoat is rarely done. The white tie is a fixed component of the tailcoat ensemble.

Material & colour Tailcoat and trousers are made of black woollen fabric, the waistcoat of cotton piqué – there are no alternatives. Even if modern etiquette guides often propose “loosening up” occasion wear, it is better to conform to the conservative dress code if you don’t wish to leave a bad impression.

68 D r e s s c o d e

tailcoat

The shirt The appropriate shirt to go with a tailcoat is white, the chest pleated or finished with cotton piquĂŠ and has a stand-up or wing collar. Another vital component: starched cuffs, collar, linen or piquĂŠ chest and a simple cuff with two button holes that can be fastened with cufflinks.

Jacket & trousers The jacket is always single breasted, has the typical tails at the back, a short front, silk lapels and can not be buttoned up. The matching trousers are made of the same material, have no turn-ups, boast a vertical satin stripe on the outer side and optionally a draw cord waistband, as they are worn without a belt.

Illustriation by Marianne Zahel D r e s s c o d e 69

Tailcoat

The tailcoat is the epitome of elegance and the noblest attire for a night at the ball. However, only a few balls expressly require this dress code. In Vienna the tailcoat is only obligatory at the Opera Ball and Techniker Cercle.

The tuxedo A tuxedo makes for the perfect outfit for almost every ball.

„Black tie“ is a dress code widely used on invitations, especially to elegant balls such as the Vienna Philharmonic Ball, the Kaffeesiederball or the Elmayer Kränzchen. Owning a black or midnight blue tuxedo is compulsory if you are frequently invited to elegant evening events for business or pleasure.

The details Apart from the cummerbund, cufflinks and, with more exclusive versions, the five decorative shirt buttons are extremely elegant details.

The bow tie, just like the cummerbund, is usually black. Very modernly styled gentlemen, however, may chose more colourful alternatives.

Material & colour A tuxedo, also known as “black dinner jacket“, can be black or midnight blue.

An exception is the „dinner jacket“ – the white or cream coloured counterpart, usually made of a lighter wool material, as it is worn only at open air events such as summer balls like the Concordia-Ball. The tuxedo shirt is made of either cotton or silk.

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tuxedo

The shirt A tuxedo shirt has to be white, or, when worn with a dinner jacket, ivory and must have double, straight ended cuffs and cufflinks. Optional features are a hidden button facing or a pleated or piquĂŠ shirt chest. When it comes to collars there is a choice between a classic or wing collar.

Stand up collars, however, are less typical.

Jacket & trousers The jacket can be single or double breasted, has a widening lapel or shawl collar of silk, but no slit in the back. Which cut and style you choose is a matter of taste and depends on your body shape. The trousers are made of the same material as the jacket and the outside seam is covered by a satin stripe.

A dinner jacket always calls for black dress trousers.

Illustriation by Marianne Zahel D r e s s c o d e 73

tuxedo

The tuxedo, or black tie, is a popular dress code for elegant evening events and balls like the Wiener Kaffeesiederball.

Generally, a tuxedo is perfect for almost any ball.

The Gala-uniform Modern elegance combined with military symbolism. Colours and cuts reflect the uniform traditions of each country.

„Dress suit white“ – this is the correct term for the Austrian gala uniform and is generally to be worn when the dress code stipulates tailcoats or tuxedos. At the Officer’s Ball at the Hofburg Vienna you can admire the full range of gala uniforms from all countries.

Awards & decorations The way of wearing all insignia and awards as well as the order in which they are placed are subject to meticulous rules. For instance, the highest distinction is to be attached to the far right corner above the left breast pocket.

Gold is for officers, silver for non-commissioned officers – a maximum total of 10 breast decorations (crosses, jewels, medals) may be worn. Rank badges and shoulder decorations are gold for officers and silver for noncommissioned officers. The manner in which the golden shoulder cords are worn also indicates whether the wearer is a Guards officer, military attaché or adjutant of the Federal President or chief military staff.

Material & colour Typically the material used for uniforms is firm, to enable the wearing of military insignia, cordons and pockets. The Austrian uniform is made from a cream coloured gabardine, indicating the great tradition of the imperial army that wore white uniforms until 1866. The trousers, however, are black-blue.

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gala-uniform

Shirt & accessories The shirt is invariably white, the tie is black-blue. Black knee high socks and black low shoes are obligatory.

The shoes must be smooth, without any decorative seams and must be polished till they shine. White gloves are a must and add further propriety and elegance to the wearer’s appearance.

Jacket & trousers The gala uniform’s cut is the same as that of the formal uniform. Military accessories such as gold shoulder decorations, shoulder cords or elaborate awards in gold and silver make the uniform even more splendid. The black-blue trousers boast isochromatic stripes to cover the outside seams. Exception: Generals wear broad red decorative stripes on their trousers.

Illustriation by Hariet Müller D r e s s c o d e 77

gala-uniform

The Gala-Uniform – also called „dress suit white“ – can be worn to every society event that calls for the dress codes black or white tie.

Admire the whole range of the gala uniform at the Officer’s Ball at the Hofburg Vienna.

The dark suit Just because a suit is dark doesn’t automatically mean it is a suitable evening suit for a night at the ball.

Every man should own at least one elegant evening suit that can be worn to events like the Wiener Blumenball or various balls in the provinces. Experts passionately argue about the exact dress code for occasion wear – no other form of attire inspires such differences of opinion. Elegance is a good point of reference when it comes to the quality of an evening suit.

The details It is a definite faux pas to appear at a ball with a simple tie.

The bow tie can be either black or dark red. A blue suit calls for a bow tie of the same colour. If you really want to wear a tie, definitely opt for a subtly patterned or iridescent silk tie.

Material & colour Elegance is the name of the game – beginning with the material.

Pure wool or wool-satin mixed fabrics, gabardines or satins with a lightly shimmering surface are preferable to sporty flannels. For formal occasions the suit should be black, anthracite or midnight blue and can also be pin striped.

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Dark Suit

The shirt The shirt must be white and have double cuffs, at least when attending a ball.

When it comes to the collar, all forms are possible – with the exception of very sporty or button down versions.

A tuxedo shirt is the best option for a black suit. By the way: these shirts never have breast pockets, but always boast French cuffs.

Jacket & trousers Elegant evening suit jackets can be cut in the Italian or American way, usually have 2 or 3 buttons and – regardless of whether they are single or double breasted – have no slit in the back. A single breasted jacket can be combined with a waistcoat. These days, 1-button-versions can also be found among Italian designs. The trousers are always made from the same material in the same colour as the jacket.

Illustriation by Marianne Zahel D r e s s c o d e 81

Dark Suit

At balls the dark suit is to be worn exclusively with bow ties.

The combination with a tuxedo shirt makes a dark suit appear even more elegant. This dress code is most suited to university and dance school balls.

Festive nationaL costume When it comes to traditional occasion wear, it has to be a traditionalformal suit, not one for everyday use.

National costume is obligatory when “Tracht” (German for national costume) is the only stipulated dress code on the invitation, e.g. at the Jägerball.

If the dress code calls for „heimatliche Tracht“, as does the Edelweißkränzchen in Salzburg, only original national costumes are allowed and no tradition-inspired “fantasy creations”. Totally taboo: wearing national costumes of other cultures, like wearing a kilt when you haven’t a drop of Scottish blood flowing in your veins.

The details National costumes are often adorned with precious embroidery and fine buttons of silver or staghorn. A three-piece looks particularly elegant – for evening wear the waistcoat should be made of either silk brocade, velvet or fine loden.

Silk cravats with typical patterns add the finishing touch.

Material & colour Modest suits of woollen material or light merino loden in black, anthracite, dark blue, brown or dark green with subtle colour accents are recommended. Stag leather is only the order of the day at the more rustic Almdudler Trachtenpärchenball, for all other balls this material is just not elegant enough – except if it is a fixed component of an original, festive national costume.

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fFestive national costume

The Shirt At balls a white shirt is preferable to a checked or striped one. The traditional “Pfoad” shirt is also an option, as long as the event isn’t too elegant and the shirt can be combined with a traditional “Joppe” jacket. A dark frock-coat looks good combined with a tuxedo shirt with hidden buttons and cuffs.

Jacket & trousers A formal coat or traditional jacket are the most suitable options.

While the former is particularly elegant, it only suits taller gentlemen. Some original national dress codes stipulate knickerbockers to go with a frock-coat, however, for formal occasions these should not be made from leather. The classic Styrian suit is accepted in Austria as legitimate dress for a ball. A green hunter’s tuxedo with black tuxedo trousers is also socially acceptable.

Illustriation by Marianne Zahel D r e s s c o d e 85

fFestive national costume

Festive national costume usually means an original Austrian costume, fanciful fashion designs inspired by national dress are not authentic enough.

Important: festive national costumes are to be worn with white shirts. Wearing national costumes from countries other than your own is taboo.

Men’s

accessories

Attention to detail “The world’s most beautiful accessories” The seemingly trifling things like cufflinks, watches, etc. round off any outfit and say a lot about their owner.

El e m e n ts o f atti r e – a p e r f e ct g e n t l e m a n i s e l e g a n

Watch & cufflinks When it comes to occasion wear, a pocket watch is always much classier than a wristwatch. While a modest, elegant wristwatch is allowed when wearing an evening suit, and just about tolerated with a dinner jacket and tuxedo, it is a definite no-go when worn with a tailcoat. Here you need to decide between a pocket watch or going “timeless”.

Cufflinks, an absolute must for evening suit, tuxedo and tailcoat alike, are typically made of yellow, rose or white gold with a mother-of-pearl or onyx inlay. Other designs are possible, as long as they are elegant and made of precious metal.

Shoes & socks When it comes to the correct shoes for tailcoats, traditionalists insist on patent leather slip ons with silk bows. Patent loafers or oxfords are also totally correct. In fact, you can’t wear tails or tuxedos without them. Oxford shoes made of black leather would be the only acceptable alternative for a tuxedo. However, you should always remember that you will be judged from head to toe. Stockings or socks should be made of fine materials, such as a wool and silk mix. They are always black.

The dress handkerchief According to the old school, the handkerchief is an absolute “must“ when wearing occasion wear and should be made of white cotton, linen or silk to match the shirt. In more tolerant dress codes coloured handkerchiefs – except when worn with a tailcoat –are permissible as an “eye catcher”. Where applicable, they are colour-coordinated to match bow tie, ascot tie or cummerbund, but never black.

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Men’s accessories t ly s t y l e d f r o m h e ad t o t o e

Braces Braces are the most traditional way of keeping trousers in place and are usually indispensable, as belts are not allowed when wearing a tailcoat or tuxedo. Suitable braces must be white when worn with a tailcoat and, if worn with a tuxedo, can be black or another colour to match the bow tie. They should have elegant silk ribbons at the front and only be elasticated at the back.

F o t o : R o m y H u b e gg e r , Ca r o s t r a s n i k , w e m p e , m o n t b l an c , F A LKE

Hat & scarf An elegant white silk scarf can be worn with tuxedos and tailcoats. The classic top hat is covered with black velvet, and can only be worn with a tailcoat and must be handed in at the clock room together with the white scarf.

The old fashioned opera hat – also called “chapeau claque” – consists of a wired frame that is covered with silk and is collapsible. A black cape is a particularly elegant supplement to a tailcoat, the proverbial “icing on the cake”.

If you want to go for an exceptionally traditional look, add a black cane with a silver knob.

The gloves Nowadays, white evening gloves made of silk or cotton are usually preferred to the classic kid gloves. With the exception of official state receptions, they can be handed in at the cloak room, although, according to the conservative dress code, they should be worn all evening with a tailcoat and only removed when eating or shaking hands. While wearing gloves with a tuxedo or evening suit is no gaffe, it is quite unusual to do so these days, except at some dance schools.

D r e s s c o d e 91

How to knot a tie The four-in-hand knot

Q u e l l e : B r a u m ü l l e r v e r l ag , S t y l i ng r at g e b e r " D r e s s c o d e Man "

The “four-in-hand” or simple knot is the most popular knot for a tie. The origin of its name, however, is still shrouded in mystery. There are a host of theories explaining how this knot came by its name: for instance that it was made popular by members of the London “fourin-hand-clubs” or that the manner in which London carriage drivers held their reins led to this name. The four-in-hand knot is popular with most men as it suits almost all figures, particularly men with a long torso and stout neck.

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How it’s done: 1. Lay the tie around your neck, so that the broad end is to your left and slightly longer than the narrow end. Then fold the broad end over the narrow end of the tie – for a perfect finish, right under the collar.

2. Take up the broad end with your right hand and flip it to the left, behind the narrow end, so that the back of the broad end faces upward.

4. & 5. Bring the broad end up towards the chin. Coming from behind, thread it through the loop around the neck and then through the knot at the front.

6. Take hold of the narrow end with your left hand, while carefully pulling at the broad end with your right hand until the loop is pulled together. Finally, pull the knot up to the top button.

3. Lay the broad end over the narrow end, the front should now be facing up again.

D r e s s c o d e 93

The Half Windsor This triangular knot is sometimes also called English or Turkish knot. It looks very elegant, is a little slimmer than the Windsor know and is very suited to narrow ties made of thin materials.

The Half Windsor knot suits all types of figure and looks particularly good with shirts with classic or broad collars.

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How it’s done: 1. Start as you would with the four-in-hand: Lay the tie around your neck, so that the broad end is on your left and much longer than the narrow end. Then fold the broad end of the tie over the narrow end, just under the collar.

2. Then bring the broad end up towards the chin and, coming from behind, thread it through the loop. The tip of the broad end should now be pointing to the right.

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3. Now wrap the broad end around the narrow end in a clockwise motion, so that the broad end lies to the right, with its front facing upwards.

4. & 5. Bring the broad end up towards the chin and, coming from behind, thread it through the loop and then through the knot at the front. Finally, simply adjust the knot accordingly.

How to knot a tie The Windsor knot

Q u e l l e : B r a u m Ăź l l e r v e r l ag , S t y l i ng r at g e b e r " D r e s s c o d e Man "

This classic, relatively large knot is named for the Duke of Windsor and is comparitively complicated. It is triangular in shape and lends narrow ties more volume and body. The Windsor knot is most suited to a broad collar, such as a cutaway, men of medium or small height and men with a short torso or thin neck.

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How it’s done: 1. Lay the tie around your neck so that the broad end is to your left and slightly longer in comparison to the narrow end. Then, just as with the half Windsor, the broad end is folded over the narrow end, just below the collar. Bring the broad end up towards the chin and thread it through the loop from behind.

2. Starting from the right, guide the broad end under the narrow end.

over the narrow end once more, coming from the left.

4. Bring the broad end up towards the chin once again, through the loop from behind and then thread it through the knot at the front.

5. Now simply push the knot up to the upper shirt button.

3. Bring the broad end up towards the chin and, starting from the front, thread it through the loop. Then lay the broad end D r e s s c o d e 95

F o t o : R o m y H u b e gg e r

The bow tie

The bow tie is deemed to be the tie’s predecessor. Originally it was a knotted, diagonally folded square kerchief that got smaller and narrower with thime, until it reached its present shape round about 1870. Although, according to the classic dress code, the bow tie used to be a correct alternative to the tie for a long time, it is now almost obsolete. Nowadays it is only seen in occasion and professional wear, e.g. a judge’s white tie or a tailcoated waiter’s black tie.

In snooker, wearing a bow tie is also an important part of the dress code. Equally important: wearing a bow tie with a tailcoat (white tie) or a tuxedo (black tie). Bow ties are most suited to detachable collars, broad collars and Italian collars. High quality bow ties are made of pure silk, the only exception being white ties for tailcoats, which are always made of cotton piqué.

The bow tie knot: tieing your own bow tie is not obligatory nowadays. Black and white bow ties can be bought ready tied and only need to be adjusted to fit the collar. However, it is also undeniable that tying your own bow tie shows a lot of class. Although the process is no different from tying one’s shoelaces, bow ties can prove to be a bit of a problem at times.

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Q u e l l e : B r a u m ü l l e r v e r l ag , S t y l i ng r at g e b e r " D r e s s c o d e Man "

How to knot a bow tie

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How it’s done: 1. Lay the tie around your neck so that the end on your left is longer than the one on your right.

6. Flip the long end up – in the shape of a bow, as before – and then pull it from the left through the part you have just folded

2. Fold the longer over the shorter end.

7. & 8. Finally, align the bow by carefully pulling at both „wings“, making sure it’s symmetrical.

3. The long end should now be brought up towards the chin and pulled forward. It can then be left hanging down.

4. Then fold the short end in the middle of the broad part, making a bow – the loop should be pointing to the left. Fold the long end over the knot you have just formed.

5. Now bring the long end up towards the chin, back and over to the front again.

D r e s s c o d e 97

The dress handkerchief Colours and patterns of the handkerchief should match those of the tie: traditionally it is thought to be stylish for small patterns to be combined with larger ones, or that the handkerchief’s colour can also be found in the tie’s pattern. However, identical materials and patterns are deemed boring by connaisseurs. In some companies the handkerchief is considered too elegant for everyday wear – observing your senior colleagues can help you make the right choice here.

Ways of folding handkerchiefs 1

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Two point fold This classic fold with its two points is very popular and most commonly worn.

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Straight Shell This simple yet stylish alternative is easy to fold and ideally suited to thin silk handkerchiefs.

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how to Fold A dress handkerchief

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Diagonal Shell The diagonal shell is a stylish way of folding thin silk handkerchiefs, whereby it is imperative that the highest point is on the outside.

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Cagney

Q u e l l e : B r a u m Ăź l l e r v e r l ag , S t y l i ng r at g e b e r " D r e s s c o d e Man "

The cagney is a very elaborate way of folding a handkerchief and is mainly suited to elegant occasions, as the handkerchief is conspicuously emphasised and made an eye catcher.

The cravat The cravat is the modern tie’s predecessor and still an important accessory in classic horse riding circles and for some national costumes. It is often worn with a suit, preferably with a loosely tied knot around an open shirt collar – a combination that can seem anything from dandy-like to extravagant. The cravat is usually tied with a four-in-hand knot, but with one difference: at the final stage, instead of pulling the front end through the knot it is simply laid over the knot. A modern variation of the cravat is a narrow, fringed silk or light woollen scarf that is partly sewn together at the back.

It can be worn like a scarf or, alternatively, tied with a four-in-hand knot.

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