MAKE IT RAIN Steadily carving his role among the experts of men’s fashion, Mark Benjamin dishes on his early inspirations, go-to brands and long-term love for the Lone Star State.
WHEN MARK BENJAMIN was in preschool, his mom received a phone call from his teacher. “There’s something you should know about Mark,” the teacher said. “He does not like stripes. He will not wear anything with a striped pattern. He won’t touch anything with a stripe on it.” The call was an early indication of just how resolute Benjamin’s feelings about fashion were. (They’re also remarkably consistent: two decades later, he feels the same way about the pattern.) An expert in men’s fashion, Benjamin has been a driving force in the field, founding RAIN Magazine in 2016, when he was just 25 years old. Starting an independent magazine is “like being given a canvas with half-broken paint brushes and only three colors—and not the primary ones,” Benjamin says facetiously, “but maybe like burnt sienna, canary yellow and forest green. As you get better with each issue, and more and more people want to be part of that vision, then all of a sudden then you get all the colors.” Fast forward two years and the biannual publication seems to be working with a full palette. Now at work on RAIN’s fifth issue, which hits newsstands this Fall, Benjamin sat down with Bal Harbor to discuss the state of the men’s fashion and some of his favorite wardrobe picks for the season. Taylor Dafoe: How has menswear changed in the last five years? Mark Benjamin: The democratization of fashion and luxury has by far been the biggest change in the industry. This movement has solidified the demand-driven mechanism of fashion, taking the place of the top-down approach that dominated much of the last century. Normcore, streetwear and sportswear
118 BAL HARBOUR
are all examples of this. People are demanding high quality “normal” clothing—jeans, t-shirts, everyday-wear as status symbols. You can make a million dollars sitting behind a computer in your underwear, so the way you dress is less important than what you dress in. TD: What are your go-to brands right now? MB: My favorite brand right now is Raf Simons—specifically the Raf Simons CALVIN KLEIN 205W39NYC line. It’s modern with an American, almost Texan influence that I can relate to, being a born-and-raised Texan myself. There’s also what John Galliano just did for Maison Margiela, the Artisanal men’s collection, which is an entirely bespoke sort of couture for men that was probably the biggest moment in recent memory for men’s fashion and the true collector/appreciator. Demna’s Balenciaga is also making a huge impact with logo mania and deconstructing fashion and how we value it. What’s wrong is right; a car floor mat becomes a skirt and it’s genius. Right now there are so many ways to wardrobe. You really have to shop around, and that’s what makes it fun. I like Valentino and Gucci for sportswear. The patterns Alessandro [Michele] and the team come up for Gucci knitwear are beautiful and pay homage to classic designs from the house. Alessandro has been there so long he knows the brand backwards and forwards so it’s always exciting to see how he reinterprets it. And, everyone looks good in a Tom Ford suit—it’s Hollywood. I love Fendi accessories for the perfect touch of whimsy and Brioni for laceups and loafers. TD: You’ve referenced Texas a couple of times now. You grew up in Houston. How has the state influenced your style? MB: There is something beautifully foreign and alien about Texas. And then there is the way of life. Individualism, an adventurous spirit,
the rugged lifestyle and—most of all—a no bullshit attitude. It’s all Texas. The Houston Livestock Show and Rodeo is one of my favorite things I’ve ever experienced. When you see a pair of polished alligator cowboy boots with stirrups that have never seen a speck of dirt, that’s when you really get the taste of Texas. TD: Who are the non-fashion artists who have been the most influential on your work? MB: Houston is the land of highways and strip malls. The Menil Collection and The Museum of Fine Arts, Houston (MFAH) have been hugely influential. The first real moment I had with art was at the MFAH, when I saw a giant silkscreened self-portrait of Andy Warhol. It was haunting and beautiful and honest. There’s also the photographer David Armstrong and director of Paris, Texas, Wim Wenders, both of whom can’t be cited enough. But probably the most influential person that I keep going back to is the musician and artist, SSION (shun). There is something about his style and approach—a seriously-not-serious vibe that eludes categorization. He is always challenging the listener and viewer to think and see things differently. TD: What’s your favorite photo series? MB: My favorite photoshoot of all time is probably American Cowboy photographed by Hedi Slimane for Hero Magazine, Summer/Fall 2013. It’s a mix of documentary and fashion, depicting real American cowboys and their idiosyncratic lifestyles. TD: What about photo shoots that you’ve been a part of—which is your favorite? MB: It’s the one that doesn’t end up in disaster, right? One of my favorites was an editorial special we did with the Comme des Garçons Homme Plus Spring/Summer 2017 collection at the home of good friends, interior designer
COURTESY AMAN RESORTS
BY TAYLOR DAFOE PORTRAIT BY JEIROH YANGA